OBJECTIVE

The reason I chose this topic is because history fascinates me. I like to learn about the
civilizations and the lifestyles of the people in those ages. I have chosen Thirumlai
Nayakkar palace as it has awed me since my childhood. The grand bland exterior cheats
anyone as the palace conceals a great intricate, detailed workmanship beneath its roves.
Thus I was inspired and chose this monument to learn more in detail about the intricate
Dravidian Sculptures.

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INTRODUCTION

Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal is a 375 year old Indo-Western palatial brilliance that stands
testimony to the glorious years of the Nayak regime. Erected to mark the shift of Capital
from Tiruchirappalli to Madurai, Thirumalai Nayakar utilized the services of an Italian
architect to design the palace. With no records existing, the name of such brilliant
architect is left unknown. While the palace’s arches and domes are inspired from Indo-
Sarcenic architecture, the huge and tall white columns speak for the Italian style. The
original Palace Complex was four times bigger than the present structure. In its heyday,
Tirumalai Nayak Palace at Madurai was considered to be one of the wonders of the
South.

The courtyard

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LOCATION

COORDINATES

Lattitude : 9.914881°N
Longitude : 78.124326°E

Located in the main city of Madurai, and just 2 km from the Meenakshi Amman Temple,
this palace is easily accessible by all major modes of transport in the city.
BY AIR

Madurai has a domestic airport with fairly good facilities. It is served by several
domestic airlines.The flights connect mainly to Chennai (Madras), but there are few
direct flights to other major Indian cities.The airport is about 15 km from the Palace. It is
best to hire a taxi from the airport from the counter in the arrival lounge.

BY TRAIN

Trains are the major mode of entry into the city. The railway station is centrally located
and many facilities are accessible from there. Madurai is well connected by trains to
many parts of India like Chennai , Bangalore, Mumbai (Bombay), and Delhi. A train
journey from Chennai takes 8 to 10 hours and is the preferred railhead. Train tickets can
be booked from Indian Railways' reservation centers or online from IRCTC.

BY ROAD

Madurai is situated on National Highways NH-7, NH-45B, NH-49. Almost all of them are
presently being upgraded to multi-lane ways as part of National highway development
program. Travel from Chennai and Bangalore will take approximately 8-10 hours.

Madurai has several bus stands. Most inter-state and overnight buses terminate at
Mattuthavani Bus stand. Private buses are found closer to the city center near Periyar
bus stand. Ticketing and reservation facilities are available at the bus-stands.

BY BOAT

Madurai is situated inland, and the Vaigai River which runs through the city is mostly
dry. However, the nearest ports for entry are Chennai (450 km) and Tuticorin (160 km).

ENTRY FEE : Rs. 10

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PEOPLE AND CULTURE

The people residing in the area around the palace are Sourashtras. Their main occupation
are dyeing and darning. People converse in Tamil. The main festival in Madurai is the
Chithirai Festival, celebrated in the Tamil month Chithirai. Re-enaction of the marriage of
goddess Meenakshi and lord Sundareshwar. Sungudi saris are manufactured in Madurai.

The Chithirai Festival

Sungudi Sarees

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HISTORY

Widely considered as the most illustrious of the Madurai Nayak dynasty, King Thirumalai
Nayak constructed the palace to mark the shift of his capital from Tiruchi to Madurai,
which was supposed to have been done for strategic and administrative reasons. The
construction of the Mahal was estimated to have commenced at around1629 and
completed by 1636. The palace was built by Thirumalai Nayakar, the greatest of Nayakar
kings of Madurai. The Nayaks ruled Madurai from 1545 till 1740, after the Pandya kings.

The courtyard Rankavilasam

The office near the Palace

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History of Madurai reveals that they were originally governors of the Vijayanagar Empire
(based in Karnataka). As the empire broke up and declined, the Nayaks gained control
over their governing regions and became rulers of the cities they controlled. Thirumalai
Nayak constructed this palace with the help of an Italian architect who visited Madurai
around that time. As the abode of the king, the palace participated in activities in and
around Madurai. The king and the Nayak Prime Minister Arya Natha Mudaliyar was
instrumental in restoration of other architectural monuments in the city like the Meenakshi
Amman Temple, the Thirupparamkundram Temple and the Mariamman Teppakulam
(water tank). Over a span of 400 years many parts of the buildings were suffered much
by time, and not inconsiderably, by the destructive effects of war; a few, however, are
sufficiently in repair to be converted into use by the garrison, as granaries, store-houses,
powder magazines during time of East India Company. King Thirumalai Nayak’s
grandson had demolished much of the fine structure and removed most of the jewels and
woodcarvings in order to build his own palace in Tiruchirapalli. However Lord Napier, the
Governor of Madras, had partially restored the palace in 1866-72. The Entrance Gate,
The Main Hall and the Dance Hall are the sections of the palace survive till date which
constitutes one fourth of the original structure.

TEPPAKULAM

This is the location where the king Thirumalai Naicker excavated the soil to fabricate the
bricks required for constructing his palace, Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal. The pit that was
thus formed is seen as tank now. It is approximately 305 M long and 290 M wide, nearly
equal area to that of Meenakshi Amman Temple. Built in 1645 A.D.,this is the biggest
tank in Tamil Nadu. The tank is connected to Vaigai River through an ingenious system
of underground Channels.

Teppakulam

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THIRUMALAI NAYAKKAR

Thirumalai Nayakar ruled Madurai between A.D 1623 and 1659. He was the most notable
of the thirteen Madurai Nayak rulers in the 17th century. His contributions are found in the
many splendid buildings and temples of Madurai. His kingdom was under constant threat
from the armies of Bijapur Sultanate and the other neighbouring Muslim kingdoms, which
he managed to repulse successfully. His territories comprised much of the old Pandya
territories which included Coimbatore, Tirunelveli, Madurai districts, Aragalur in southern
Tamil Nadu and some territories of the Travancore kingdom. Thirumalai Nayak was a
great patron of art and architecture and the Dravidian architecture evolved into the
Madurai style. He rebuilt and renovated a number of old temples of the Pandya period.

Thirumalai Nayakkar

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LAYOUT

The palace complex area was originally four times bigger than it is now, consisting of two
portions – Swarga vilasa and Ranga vilasa. There were also other portions like the palace
shrine, harem, theater, royal band stand, armory and other structures which were used
to accommodate palanquins, royal chariots, relatives, servants, guests and other regal
paraphernalia. On entering the Thirumalai Nayak Palace, one comes across a large
central courtyard measuring 3,900 sq.m. This expansive and open courtyard area is
flanked by huge white circular pillars on all four sides. The Courtyard and the Dance Hall
are the major attractions of the palace. The Swarga Vilasa or celestial pavilion was used
as the throne room (arcaded by an octagon dome 60-70 feet high) while the Dance Hall
was used for dance, music and other entertainment activities by the royalty.

The original layout

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ARCHITECTURE

The building was constructed with methods and techniques that were considered very
novel in those years. Thirumalai Nayak Palace has a minimalistic and rather-bland
exterior. But on the interior, its grandeur is unparalleled and extraordinary than many of
its contemporaries in India. The palace is a blend of Italian, Islamic, European and
Dravidian style of architecture. While the domes and arches signify the Islamic touch, the
huge and tall white columns speak for the Italian style. The Dravidian style is visible in the
patterns on the walls, the ceiling, the windows and the arch ways of the palace.

The Clock Tower The bland dome

The corridors of the courtyard Details on Queen’s place in Durbar

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PILLARS

Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal is famous for its giant pillars. Connected by high decorated
arches, these pillars measure 20m in height and have a circumference of 4m.

The Pillars in courtyard Pillars in Natakasala

COURTYARD

Upon entering into the gates of the palace, the visitor enters into present day’s huge
central courtyard measuring 3,700 m² (41,979 sq ft). The courtyard is surrounded by
massive circular pillars.

The courtyard

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NATAKASALA

Natakasala or the dancing hall was the place used for entertainment. The King along with
his wives viewed dance performances accompanied by musical instruments and lights
provided by burning torchlights. Stairways to the upper region are present in the western
side of the hall. A temple dedicated to goddess Rajarajeshweri was situated in the
northern side of this hall. The pillars are reddish brown with each pillar having an unique
sculpture along the ceiling.

The Natakasala hall Pillars in Natakasala

Unique carvings on pillars in Natakasala…

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RANKAVILASAM
The other portion of the palace, Rankavilasam was demolished by Thirumalai Nayak's
Grandson. However, a small structure still remains known as "Ten pillars" or "Pathu
Thoon" in Tamil. Sadly, these ten pillars of timeless beauty in Thirumalai Nayak are now
surrounded by shops and residential houses.

Ten Pillars which was used

The Manuscripts Display of sculptures

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MATERIALS USED FOR CONSTRUCTION

The structure was constructed using foliated brickwork and the surface details and finish
in exquisite stucco called chunnam using chunnam (shell lime) and (Mixed with egg white)
to obtain a smooth and glossy texture. The steps leading up to the hall were formerly
flanked by two equestrian statues of excellent workmanship.

The pillars supporting the arches are 13m tall and are again joined by foliated brickwork
that carries a valance and an entablature rising up to a height of 20 m. The decoration is
done, (shell lime). The pavilions topped with finials that were covered with gold are on
either side of the courtyard.

The Grinder used for grinding egg, lime salt and palm sugar…

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GALLERY

The Sound and Light Show in the evening The ornamental painted ceiling

The Entrance King’s Throne

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The high walls around the palace The decorated ceiling

Queen’s Harem The High Windows

Tamil Manuscript in the museum

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MAINTENANCE

During British rule, the palace was used for various purposes including as army barracks
and as manufacturing hub. Post-Independence it was used as Madurai-Ramnad District
Court till 1970, after which it was declared as a ‘Protected Monument' by the State
Archaeology Department.

A total of Rs.4.70 crore has been spent on restoring and maintaining the palace over the
years.

To the extent possible, all the renovation works were carried out using the traditional
Chettinad construction materials to ensure that the original heritage of the Mahal was
retained.

Renevations were done to strengthen work inside the Mahal besides some landscaping
and decorative work outside the Mahal.

Following several incidents of the palace being damaged during film shoots, the State
Government has now completely banned this practice.

However, despite several major efforts taken up by the Archaeology Department, Tourism
Department and bodies such as INTACH, scribbling on the pillars continues to take a toll
on the Mahal.

Every evening a sound and light show is displayed.

6.45 PM to 7.35 PM in English

8.00 PM to 8.50 PM in Tamil

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CONCLUSION

Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal brings an awe to anyone. The deceitful exterior looks
flabbergasting and the intricate interiors gave me many ideas to make motives and
jewelry. The history that I learnt by visiting this palace gave me a new insight about my
hometown Madurai. I also learnt about a secret passage concealed in Meenakshi Amman
temple that leads to the palace. The study that I did about the palace gave me more
information than I ever knew about the palace or the city. This visit also made me to know
more about the other historical monuments built by the King. Thus, this project gave me
a wide panoramic view of the palace, learning about the culture, history, architecture and
details of the stucco works. 248 pillars of grandeur and the detailed Dravidian motives
have created a visual picture forever.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

http://www.madurai.com/palace.html

http://www.thehindu.com/news/national/tamil-nadu/375-years-on-mahal-
remains-a-testimony-to-thirumalai-nayaks-regime/article2936078.ece

http://crawlpal.blogspot.in/2014/09/eat-pray-drink-in-madurai.html

I would also like to thank my grandfather for providing all the information from
his knowledge.

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