Pt1-Slim Pant Design Principles
Pt1-Slim Pant Design Principles
Pt1-Slim Pant Design Principles
Table of Contents
Part I (this article)
Principles of pant fit related to pattern design
1. Pant Torso: Comparison of pant torso as style gets more slim (CB/CF slope, the
wedge, vertical ease, crotch seam curve, waist darts)
• Pant Back
• Pant Front
2. Vertical grain line and creaseline
3. Levels, Lines & Matchpoints (waistline, hipline, front crotch depth level, knee level
and hem level)
4. Sideseam & Inseam
5. Crotch seam
6. Lower pant leg (includes knock knees and bow legs)
NOTE: this article is not finished; more text and more drawings need to be added, but
I’ve lost my drawing software and am still learning the new one.
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The following sketches illustrate these principles for the back of the culotte, trouser &
slim pant.
For trousers:
• there is a small back wedge;
• both CF & CB are slightly
tilted;
• vertical ease in crotch seam
is about ¾”; and
• the crotch seam is a bit less
curvy than culottes.
‣ Slimming the pant leg causes the waist dart legs to widen. If they become too
wide, they can cause a pucker at the point, so to overcome that, some of the dart
take-up can be moved to the CF, or you can replace one or more darts with pleats.
- The very loose-fitting culotte (really a skirt with legs), has the loosest fit and has
no transfer of take-up to CF unless puckers at tip of front dart(s).
- Loose-fitting trouser with front pleat has none of the take-up transferred to CF;
darted trousers may have about ⅛” of take-up transferred to CF.
- Slim-fitting pant may have up to ⅜” of take-up transferred to CF.
- Tight-fitting jeans (at least through the torso and upper leg) have up to ⅝” tilt
from grain. do sketch
The following sketches illustrate these principles for the front of the culotte, trouser &
slim pant.
For trousers:
• small wedge if protruding belly
• no additional tilt at CF if pleat
at waist; may be ⅛” additional
tilt if dart at waist.
• vertical ease in crotch seam is
about ¾”; and
• the crotch seam is a bit less
sharp than culottes.
Always mark the critical matchpoints on your pattern’s sideseam and inseam,
then transfer to the fabric to ensure a well-constructed garment. See sketch above.
‣ Waistline: The front and back waistlines should meet in a smooth usually
curved, line at the top of the sideseam. However, because of the seat and belly
wedges, the waistline at CF and CB may be above this level.
‣ Hipline: Always mark the hipline on your pattern (as shown in sketch below)
and fabric; it serves as a horizontal balance line for the garment: the hipline of
both front and back should be parallel with the floor (equidistant from the floor
at all points), when worn, even though may be tilted on pattern. See page 1 for
definition of ‘hipline’.
‣ Crotch depth: The crotch depth of the front pattern piece is used as a
matchpoint. It is the vertical distance at SS from waist to the level of the front
crotch/inseam meet-point. This level is always marked on both front and back
pattern at SS. See sketch above.
The back crotch depth (the vertical level of the back crotch/inseam meet-
point) is not indicated on the pattern, but is used to position the back crotch
curve correctly on the pattern. It is ½ - ¾” lower than the front crotch depth (as
measured on the saddle profile). This difference requires easing the front
inseam into the back inseam for the top 7” (or so) of the inseam.
This will be more evident when you draw your own saddle profile (next section).
‣ Knee level is measured vertically from your body’s crotch level to the bend line
at the back of the knee.
‣ Hem line is measured in the same way, from your body’s crotch level to the
ankle bone (or wherever you wish to position the hem). I also find the floor
level to be useful - but you must always wear the same shoes (or be barefoot)
when using this reference. Then mark them on the pattern by measuring from
your actual crotch level (above the front crotch depth line) along the grain line.
Draw a line, perpendicular to the grain line, horizontally across the pattern to
mark these levels.
4. Sideseam & Inseam: For the most flattering look, the sideseam (SS) is
positioned in-line with the center of the leg (viewed from the side), from hip to
ankle, and is plumb (perpendicular to the floor). Posture and stance may not make
this positioning possible, but try to be as close to center as possible, especially at
the ankle, and nearly plumb.
The inseam is also positioned in-line with the center of the leg (viewed from the
side), from crotch to ankle, and is plumb. (Note: as for the sideseam, posture and
stance may affect this). The back inseam is slightly shorter than the front inseam
because the back crotch point is lower than the front crotch point (see Levels and
Lines sketch above).
5. Crotch Seam: This seam should be a smooth curve across the inseam; it
should not come to a point at the inseam. The best way to ensure this is to have
the curve meet the inseam at a right angle (90°) for both front and back crotch
curves. If this is not possible, then the sum of the F & B angles should be 180° (a
straight line).
The following illustration shows what happens when the F & B angles total less
than 180°, which is a common problem, especially when you make modifications to
an existing pattern.
Note that this modification lowers the position of the crotch depth, which may
provide more vertical ease than you wish; in this case, raise the crotch curve on
both front and back by equal amounts, to reduce the vertical ease.
6. Lower Leg: For a slim pant or slacks, the lower pant leg (knee to ankle) should
be symmetrical relative to crease line (principle 2). That is, the inseam and SS
should be equidistant from this line. For looser-fitting styles, the sideseam is
typically farther away from the crease line than the inseam. No matter how wide
the leg, however, always draw the grain line where it would be for a slim-fitting
style, as it is an important reference point that ensures the pant hangs correctly
without pull-lines or wrinkles. do sketch for this and knock knees/bow legs below
Generally, the lower back leg is 1” wider than the lower front leg (½” wider at
sideseam, and ½” wider at inseam, when crease lines are aligned), knee to hem.
Skeletal considerations such as knock knees and bow legs, affect the position of
the grain line relative to body center and the crease line:
• knock knees: From crotch to knee, the vertical grain line is positioned toward
body center (toward CB/CF). Below the knee the crease line may diverge from
the vertical grain line, tilting toward sideseam at hem level.
• bow legs: From crotch to knee, the vertical grain line is positioned farther away
from body center (toward SS). Below the knee, the crease line may diverge from
the vertical grain line, moving toward body center at hem level.