Columbia Workshop Manual
Columbia Workshop Manual
Columbia Workshop Manual
Models: CL112
CL120
Daimler Trucks North America LLC distributes the following major service publications in paper and electronic
(via ServicePro®) formats.
Workshop/Service Workshop/service manuals contain service and repair information for all vehicle
Manual systems and components, except for major components such as engines, trans-
missions, and rear axles. Each workshop/service manual section is divided into
subjects that can include general information, principles of operation, removal,
disassembly, assembly, installation, specifications, and troubleshooting.
Maintenance Manual Maintenance manuals contain routine maintenance procedures and intervals for
vehicle components and systems. They have information such as lubrication
procedures and tables, fluid replacement procedures, fluid capacities, specifica-
tions, and procedures for adjustments and for checking the tightness of fasten-
ers. Maintenance manuals do not contain detailed repair or service information.
Driver’s/Operator’s Driver’s/operator’s manuals contain information needed to enhance the driver’s
Manual understanding of how to operate and care for the vehicle and its components.
Each manual contains a chapter that covers pretrip and post-trip inspections,
and daily, weekly, and monthly maintenance of vehicle components. Driver’s/
operator’s manuals do not contain detailed repair or service information.
Service Bulletins Service bulletins provide the latest service tips, field repairs, product improve-
ments, and related information. Some service bulletins are updates to informa-
tion in the workshop/service manual. These bulletins take precedence over
workshop/service manual information, until the latter is updated; at that time, the
bulletin is usually canceled. The service bulletins manual is available only to
dealers. When doing service work on a vehicle system or part, check for a valid
service bulletin for the latest information on the subject.
IMPORTANT: Before using a particular service bulletin, check the current
service bulletin validity list to be sure the bulletin is valid.
Parts Technical Bulletins Parts technical bulletins provide information on parts. These bulletins contain
lists of parts and BOMs needed to do replacement and upgrade procedures.
Web-based repair, service, and parts documentation can be accessed using the following applications on the
AccessFreightliner.com website.
ServicePro ServicePro® provides Web-based access to the most up-to-date versions of the
publications listed above. In addition, the Service Solutions feature provides di-
agnostic assistance with Symptoms Search, by connecting to a large knowledge
base gathered from technicians and service personnel. Search results for both
documents and service solutions can be narrowed by initially entering vehicle
identification data.
PartsPro PartsPro® is an electronic parts catalog system, showing the specified vehicle’s
build record.
EZWiring EZWiring™ makes Freightliner, Sterling, Western Star, Thomas Built Buses, and
Freightliner Custom Chassis Corporation products’ wiring drawings and floating
pin lists available online for viewing and printing. EZWiring can also be ac-
cessed from within PartsPro.
Warranty-related service information available on the AccessFreightliner.com website includes the following
documentation.
Recall Campaigns Recall campaigns cover situations that involve service work or replacement of
parts in connection with a recall notice. These campaigns pertain to matters of
vehicle safety. All recall campaigns are distributed to dealers; customers receive
notices that apply to their vehicles.
Field Service Campaigns Field service campaigns are concerned with non-safety-related service work or
replacement of parts. All field service campaigns are distributed to dealers; cus-
tomers receive notices that apply to their vehicles.
A B C
00.04
D E F G
11/02/1999 f020045a
A. Section Title
B. Section Number (made up of the Group Number—first two digits, followed by a sequence number—last two digits)
C. Subject Title
D. Manual Title
E. Release (Supplement) Date
F. Subject Number
G. Subject Page Number
The following is a list of definitions for abbreviations and symbols used in Freightliner publications.
A . . . . . . . . . . amperes BBC . . . . . . . bumper-to-back-of-cab CUM . . . . . . . Cummins
AAVA . . . . . . auxiliary air valve assembly BHM . . . . . . . bulkhead module CVSA . . . . . . Commercial Vehicle Safety
ABS . . . . . . . antilock braking system BOC . . . . . . . back-of-cab Alliance
ABS . . . . . . . acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene BOM . . . . . . . bill of material CWS . . . . . . . collision warning system
A/C . . . . . . . . air conditioner BTDC . . . . . . before top dead center DC . . . . . . . . . direct current
AC . . . . . . . . . alternating current Btu(s) . . . . . British thermal unit(s) DCA . . . . . . . diesel coolant additive
acc . . . . . . . . accessories C . . . . . . . . . . common (terminal) DCDL . . . . . . driver-controlled differential
lock
ACM . . . . . . . aftertreatment control module CAC . . . . . . . charge air cooler
DDA . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Allison (obs)
ACPU . . . . . air conditioning protection unit CAN . . . . . . . controller area network
DDC . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Corporation
ADLO . . . . . auto-disengagement lockout CARB . . . . . California Air Resources
Board DDDL . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
AGM . . . . . . . absorbed glass mat
CAT . . . . . . . Caterpillar DDE . . . . . . . Detroit Diesel Engines
AGS . . . . . . . automated gear shift
CB . . . . . . . . . circuit breaker DDEC . . . . . Detroit Diesel Electronic
AG2 . . . . . . . Aluminum Generation 2 (engine) Control
a.m. . . . . . . . ante meridiem (midnight to CB . . . . . . . . . citizens’ band
DDR . . . . . . . diagnostic data reader
noon) CBE . . . . . . . cab behind engine
DDU . . . . . . . driver display unit
AM . . . . . . . . amplitude modulation CCA . . . . . . . cold cranking amperes
def . . . . . . . . defrost
amp(s) . . . . ampere(s) CCR . . . . . . . California Code of
Regulations DEF . . . . . . . diesel exhaust fluid
AMT . . . . . . . automated mechanical
transmission CD-ROM . . compact-disc/read-only DFI . . . . . . . . direct fuel injection
AMU . . . . . . . air management unit memory DGPS . . . . . differential global positioning
CDTC . . . . . . constant discharge system
ANSI . . . . . . American National Standards
Institute temperature control DHD . . . . . . . dealer help desk
API . . . . . . . . American Petroleum Institute CEL . . . . . . . check-engine light dia. . . . . . . . . diameter
API . . . . . . . . application programming CFC . . . . . . . chlorofluorocarbons DIAG . . . . . . diagnosis
interface (refrigerant-12) DIP . . . . . . . . dual inline package (switch)
ARI . . . . . . . . Air Conditioning and cfm . . . . . . . . cubic feet per minute DIU . . . . . . . . driver interface unit
Refrigeration Institute CFR . . . . . . . Code of Federal Regulations DLA . . . . . . . datalink adaptor
ASA . . . . . . . American Standards CGI . . . . . . . . clean gas induction DLM . . . . . . . datalink monitor
Association CGW . . . . . . central gateway DLU . . . . . . . data logging unit
ASF . . . . . . . American Steel Foundries CHM . . . . . . . chassis module DMM . . . . . . digital multimeter
ASR . . . . . . . automatic spin regulator CIP . . . . . . . . cold inflation pressure DOC . . . . . . .diesel oxidation catalyst
assy. . . . . . . assembly CLDS . . . . . . cab load disconnect switch DOT . . . . . . .Department of Transportation
ASTM . . . . . American Society for Testing CLS . . . . . . . coolant level sensor
and Materials DPF . . . . . . .diesel particulate filter
cm . . . . . . . . . centimeters DRL . . . . . . .daytime running lights
ATC . . . . . . . automatic temperature control
cm3 . . . . . . . . cubic centimeters DRM . . . . . . .dryer reservoir module
ATC . . . . . . . automatic traction control
CMVSS . . . . Canadian Motor Vehicle DSM . . . . . . .district service manager
ATC . . . . . . . automatic transmission Safety Standard
control DTC . . . . . . .diagnostic trouble code
Co. . . . . . . . . company
ATD . . . . . . . aftertreatment device DTC . . . . . . .discharge temperature control
COE . . . . . . . cab over engine
ATF . . . . . . . . automatic transmission fluid DTNA . . . . . . Daimler Trucks North America
Corp. . . . . . . corporation
ATS . . . . . . . aftertreatment system DVOM . . . . . digital volt/ohm meter
CPC . . . . . . . common powertrain controller
attn . . . . . . . . attention ea. . . . . . . . . .
each
CPU . . . . . . . central processing unit
aux. . . . . . . . auxiliary EBS . . . . . . .electronic braking system
CRT . . . . . . . cathode ray tube
av . . . . . . . . . avoirdupois (British weight ECA . . . . . . .electric clutch actuator
system) cSt . . . . . . . . centistokes (unit of
measurement for describing ECAP . . . . . . electronic control analyzer
AWD . . . . . . . all-wheel drive the viscosity of general programmer
AWG . . . . . . American wire gauge liquids) ECAS . . . . . . electronically controlled air
AWS . . . . . . . American Welding Society cu ft . . . . . . . cubic feet suspension
BAT . . . . . . . battery cu in . . . . . . cubic inches
ECI . . . . . . . . electronically controlled FM . . . . . . . . . frequency modulation HVLP . . . . . . high velocity, low pressure
injection FMCSA . . . . Federal Motor Carrier Safety H/W . . . . . . . hardware
ECL . . . . . . . engine coolant level Administration Hz . . . . . . . . . hertz
ECM . . . . . . . electronic control module FMEA . . . . . failure mode effects analysis IAD . . . . . . . . interaxle differential
ECT . . . . . . . engine coolant temperature FMI . . . . . . . . failure mode indicator ICS . . . . . . . . integrated child seat
ECU . . . . . . . electronic control unit FMSI . . . . . . Friction Materials Standards ICU . . . . . . . . instrumentation control unit
EDM . . . . . . . electronic data monitor Institute
i.d. . . . . . . . . . inside diameter
EEPROM . . electrically erasable FMVSS . . . . Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard ID . . . . . . . . . . identification
programmable read-only
memory FRP . . . . . . . fiberglass reinforced plastic IFI . . . . . . . . . Industrial Fasteners Institute
EFG . . . . . . . electric fuel gauge FSA . . . . . . . field service authorization IFS . . . . . . . . independent front suspension
EFPA . . . . . . electronic foot pedal FSM . . . . . . . fleet service manager IGN . . . . . . . . ignition
assembly ft . . . . . . . . . . feet ILB . . . . . . . . intelligent lightbar
EGR . . . . . . . exhaust gas recirculation ft3 . . . . . . . . . cubic feet ILO . . . . . . . . in lieu of (in the place of)
ELC . . . . . . . extended-life coolant ft3/min . . . . . cubic feet per minute in . . . . . . . . . . inches
EMC . . . . . . . electromagnetic compatibility FTL . . . . . . . . Freightliner in3 . . . . . . . . . cubic inches
EMI . . . . . . . . electromagnetic interference F.U.E.L. . . . . fuel usage efficiency level Inc. . . . . . . . . incorporated
EOA . . . . . . . electric over air g . . . . . . . . . . grams inH2O . . . . . inches of water
EP . . . . . . . . . extreme pressure (describes gal . . . . . . . . . gallons inHg . . . . . . . inches of mercury
an antiwear agent added to I/O . . . . . . . . . input/output
some lubricants) GAWR . . . . . gross axle weight rating
GHG . . . . . . . greenhouse gas IP . . . . . . . . . . instrument panel
EPA . . . . . . . Environmental Protection
Agency GHG14 . . . . greenhouse gas and fuel ISO . . . . . . . . International Organization for
efficiency regulations Standardization
EPS . . . . . . . engine position sensor
GL . . . . . . . . . gear lubricant IVS . . . . . . . . idle validation switch
ESC . . . . . . . electronic stability control
GND . . . . . . . ground k . . . . . . . . . . . kilo (1000)
ESC . . . . . . . enhanced stability control
gpm . . . . . . . gallons per minute kg . . . . . . . . . kilograms
ESD . . . . . . . electrostatic discharge
GPS . . . . . . . global positioning system km . . . . . . . . . kilometers
ESS . . . . . . . engine syncro shift
(transmission) GVWR . . . . . gross vehicle weight rating km/h . . . . . . . kilometers per hour
etc. . . . . . . . . et cetera (and so forth) HBED . . . . . hard-braking event data kPa . . . . . . . . kilopascals
ETEC . . . . . . electronic truck engine control HCM . . . . . . . hybrid control module kW . . . . . . . . kilowatts
EUI . . . . . . . . electronic unit (fuel) injectors HCOE . . . . . high cab over engine L . . . . . . . . . . liters
EVA . . . . . . . electronic vibration analyzer HCU . . . . . . . hydraulic control unit lb . . . . . . . . . . pounds
EXM . . . . . . . (chassis) expansion module HD . . . . . . . . . heavy-duty LBCU . . . . . . lightbar control unit
E85 . . . . . . . . 85% ethanol fuel HDU . . . . . . . hybrid drive unit lbf·ft . . . . . . . pounds force feet
FAS . . . . . . . Freightliner air suspension HEPA . . . . . . high-efficiency particulate air lbf·in . . . . . . pounds force inches
FCCC . . . . . . Freightliner Custom Chassis (filter) LCD . . . . . . . liquid crystal display
Corporation HEST . . . . . . high exhaust system LCOE . . . . . . low cab over engine
FCU . . . . . . . forward control unit temperature LED . . . . . . . light-emitting diode
FET . . . . . . . . field effect transistor HEV . . . . . . . hybrid electric vehicle LFL . . . . . . . . lower flammability limit
Fig. . . . . . . . . figure HFC . . . . . . . hydrogenated fluorocarbons LH . . . . . . . . . left-hand
(refrigerant-134a)
fl oz . . . . . . . fluid ounces LHD . . . . . . . left-hand drive
hp . . . . . . . . . horsepower
FLA . . . . . . . post-1984 advancements LH DR . . . . . left-hand-drive
Freightliner COE hp . . . . . . . . . high pressure
LHK . . . . . . . liters per hundred kilometers
FLB . . . . . . . enhanced Freightliner FLA HRC . . . . . . . Rockwell "C" hardness
LHS . . . . . . . low-hydrogen steel
COE hr(s) . . . . . . . hour(s)
LIN . . . . . . . . Local Interconnect Network
FLC . . . . . . . steel-cab Freightliner 112 HSA . . . . . . . hill start aid
Conventional LLC . . . . . . . limited liability company
HSD . . . . . . . high-side driver
FLD . . . . . . . post-1984 advancements L/min . . . . . . liters per minute
htr. . . . . . . . . heater
Freightliner 112/120 LNG . . . . . . . liquefied natural gas
aluminum-cab Conventional HVAC . . . . . . heating, ventilating, and air
conditioning LPG . . . . . . . liquefied petroleum gas
FLR . . . . . . . forward-looking radar
LPG . . . . . . . liquid propane gas NO . . . . . . . . normally open (terminal or POE . . . . . . . polyol ester
LPI . . . . . . . . liquid propane injection switch) PRD . . . . . . . pressure relief device
LPR . . . . . . . low pressure reservoir NOAT . . . . . . Nitrited Organic Acid PRD . . . . . . . product requirements
Technology document
LRR . . . . . . . low-rolling resistance
NOx . . . . . . . nitrogen oxides PSA . . . . . . . pressure-sensitive adhesive
LSD . . . . . . . low-side driver
no. . . . . . . . . number PSG . . . . . . . pressure sensor governor
LVD . . . . . . . low-voltage disconnect
NPT . . . . . . . national pipe thread psi . . . . . . . . . pounds per square inch
m . . . . . . . . . . meters
NPTF . . . . . . national pipe thread fitting psia . . . . . . . pounds per square inch,
max. . . . . . . . maximum
NT . . . . . . . . . nylon tube or nylon tubing atmosphere
M-B . . . . . . . . Mercedes-Benz
NTSB . . . . . . National Transportation psig . . . . . . . pounds per square inch,
MCM . . . . . . motor control module Safety Board gauge
MESA . . . . . Mining Enforcement Safety OAT . . . . . . . Organic Acid Technology pt . . . . . . . . . . pints
Act
OBD(s) . . . . on-board diagnostic(s) PTCM . . . . . pressure time control module
mfr. . . . . . . . . manufacturer
obs . . . . . . . . obsolete PTO . . . . . . . power takeoff
mi . . . . . . . . . miles
OC . . . . . . . . open circuit PTP . . . . . . . powertrain protection
MID . . . . . . . . message identifier
OCV . . . . . . . open circuit voltage PTPDM . . . . powertrain power distribution
MIL . . . . . . . . malfunction indicator lamp module
(light) o.d. . . . . . . . . outside diameter
O.D. . . . . . . . overdrive pvc . . . . . . . . polyvinyl chloride
MIL . . . . . . . . military specification
OEM . . . . . . . original equipment PWM . . . . . . pulse width modulation
min. . . . . . . . minutes
manufacturer pwr . . . . . . . . power
min. . . . . . . . minimum
OPD . . . . . . . overfill protection device qt . . . . . . . . . . quarts
misc. . . . . . . miscellaneous
OSHA . . . . . Occupational Safety and qty. . . . . . . . . quantity
mL . . . . . . . . milliliters Health Administration R & O . . . . . rust inhibitors and oxidants
mm . . . . . . . . millimeters oz . . . . . . . . . ounces R–12 . . . . . . refrigerant-12 (CFC)
mod. . . . . . . module ozf·in . . . . . . ounces force inches R–134a . . . . refrigerant-134a (HFC)
mpg . . . . . . . miles per gallon p . . . . . . . . . . positive (front axle wheel RAM . . . . . . . random access memory
mph . . . . . . . miles per hour alignment specification)
RC . . . . . . . . . reserve capacity
MSF . . . . . . . modular switch field PACE . . . . . . programmable electronically
controlled engine recirc. . . . . . recirculation
MMT . . . . . . . methylcyclopentadienyl
manganese tricarbonyl PAG . . . . . . . polyalkylene glycol (oil) Ref(s). . . . . . reference(s)
MSHA . . . . . Mining Safety and Health parm . . . . . . parameter regen . . . . . . regeneration
Administration PAS . . . . . . . passenger advisory system RELS . . . . . . reduced engine load at stop
MVDA . . . . . Motor Vehicle Dealers PC . . . . . . . . . personal computer RFI . . . . . . . . radio frequency interference
Association RH . . . . . . . . . right-hand
PCB . . . . . . . printed circuit board
n . . . . . . . . . . negative (front axle wheel RHD . . . . . . . right-hand drive
alignment specification) PDC(s) . . . . parts distribution center(s)
PDI . . . . . . . . pre-delivery inspection RH DR . . . . . right-hand-drive
N . . . . . . . . . . nitrogen
PDM . . . . . . . power distribution module R/I . . . . . . . . . removal and installation
N/A . . . . . . . . not applicable
PEC . . . . . . . power electronics carrier RMA . . . . . . . return material authorization
N·cm . . . . . . Newton-centimeters
PEEC . . . . . . programmable electronic ROM . . . . . . . read-only memory
NC . . . . . . . . . normally closed (terminal or
switch) engine control rpm . . . . . . . . revolutions per minute
NCG . . . . . . . noncondensable gases PID . . . . . . . . parameter identifier R/R . . . . . . . . removal and replacement
NHTSA . . . . National Highway Traffic PKP . . . . . . . Purple-K powder RSA . . . . . . . roll-stability advisor
Safety Administration PLC . . . . . . . power line carrier RSG . . . . . . . road speed governor
NIOSH . . . . . National Institute for PLD . . . . . . . Pumpe-Linie-Düse (pump- RSM . . . . . . . regional service manager
Occupational Safety and line-nozzle) RTS . . . . . . . ready-to-spray
Health PNDB . . . . . power-net distribution box RTV . . . . . . . room temperature vulcanizing
NITE . . . . . . . no idle thermal environment PM . . . . . . . . particulate matter RV . . . . . . . . . recreational vehicle
NLA . . . . . . . no longer available p.m. . . . . . . . post meridiem (noon to SA . . . . . . . . . source address
NLGI . . . . . . National Lubricating Grease midnight)
Institute S-ABA . . . . . self-setting automatic brake
p/n . . . . . . . . part number adjusters
N·m . . . . . . . . Newton-meters PO . . . . . . . . . purchase order
SAE . . . . . . . Society of Automotive TIG . . . . . . . . tungsten inert gas °C . . . . . . . . . degrees Celsius (centigrade)
Engineers TIR . . . . . . . . total indicator reading °F . . . . . . . . . . degrees Fahrenheit
SB . . . . . . . . . service bulletin TMC . . . . . . . Technology and Maintenance # . . . . . . . . . . . number
SBT . . . . . . . seat back thickness Council % . . . . . . . . . . percent
SBW . . . . . . . shift-by-wire TPMS . . . . . . tire pressure monitoring & . . . . . . . . . . and
SCA(s) . . . . Supplemental Coolant system
© . . . . . . . . . . copyright
Additive(s) TPS . . . . . . . thermal protection switch ™ . . . . . . . . . . trademark
SCR . . . . . . . selective catalytic reduction TPS . . . . . . . throttle position sensor
® . . . . . . . . . . registered trademark
SCU . . . . . . . system control unit TRS . . . . . . . timing reference sensor
(speedometer) TSO . . . . . . . truck specification order
SD . . . . . . . . . severe-duty TSU . . . . . . . transmission shift unit
SDU . . . . . . . step deployment unit TXV . . . . . . . thermal expansion valve
SEL . . . . . . . shutdown engine light U.D. . . . . . . . underdrive
SEM . . . . . . . switch expansion module ULSD . . . . . . ultralow-sulfur diesel
SEO . . . . . . . stop engine override UNC . . . . . . . unified national coarse
SHM . . . . . . . switch hub module UNF . . . . . . . unified national fine
SI . . . . . . . . . . service information U.S. . . . . . . . United States
SI . . . . . . . . . . Système International U.S.A. . . . . . United States of America
SID . . . . . . . . subsystem identifier USC . . . . . . . United States customary
SM . . . . . . . . system malfunction (measures)
SMC . . . . . . . sheet molded compound V . . . . . . . . . . volts
S/N . . . . . . . . serial number VCU . . . . . . . vehicle control unit
SOC . . . . . . . state-of-charge VDC . . . . . . . vehicle data computer
SPACE . . . . seat pretensioner activation Vdc . . . . . . . . volts, direct current
for crash survival VIMS . . . . . . vehicle information
enhancement management system
SPG . . . . . . . special purpose grease VIN . . . . . . . . vehicle identification number
SPN . . . . . . . suspect parameter number VIP . . . . . . . . vehicle instrumentation and
sq in . . . . . . square inches protection (Kysor)
SRP . . . . . . . seating reference point VIW . . . . . . . . vehicle interface wiring
SRS . . . . . . . supplemental restraint system (connector)
SRS . . . . . . . synchronous reference VOC . . . . . . . volatile organic compounds
sensor VOM . . . . . . . volt-ohmmeter
SRT . . . . . . . standard repair time VRS . . . . . . . variable resistance sensor
SSD . . . . . . . side sensor display VSG . . . . . . . variable speed governor
SSID . . . . . . . smart switch identification VSS . . . . . . . vehicle speed sensor
SST . . . . . . . stainless steel VSU . . . . . . . vehicle security unit
std. . . . . . . . . standard WB . . . . . . . . wire braid
S/W . . . . . . . . software WI . . . . . . . . . work instructions
SW . . . . . . . . switch WIF . . . . . . . . water-in-fuel
TAM . . . . . . . thermocouple amplifier WOT . . . . . . . wide open throttle
module – ........... minus or negative
TBB . . . . . . . Thomas Built Buses + ........... plus or positive
TBS . . . . . . . turbo boost sensor ± ........... plus-or-minus
TCM . . . . . . . transmission control module > ........... greater than
TCU . . . . . . . transmission control unit < ........... less than
TDC . . . . . . . top dead center x ........... by (used in fastener size
TDR . . . . . . . technician diagnostic routine descriptions)
TEM . . . . . . . truck equipment manufacturer " . . . . . . . . . . . inches
temp . . . . . . temperature ° . . . . . . . . . . . degrees (of an angle)
Vehicle Receipt
Prior to signing for vehicle delivery from a transporter
company, the dealer is responsible for checking for
transporter-related shortages or damages, and noting
these discrepancies on the transporter’s delivery re-
ceipt.
The dealer is also responsible for ensuring that the
vehicle was built according to the Truck Sales Order/
Invoice.
Refer to Section 3 of the Daimler Trucks North
America LLC Warranty Manual for details.
Vehicle Storage
There may be times when a vehicle is stored for long
periods before customer delivery. To protect all ve-
hicles from deterioration and weather, they must be
properly maintained. Adequate protection and stor-
age of new vehicles is the responsibility of the
dealer.
Claims arising from loss and damage to improp-
erly stored vehicles will not be reimbursed.
See Section 3 of the Daimler Trucks North America
LLC Warranty Manual for instructions on storage of
new vehicles.
Pre-Delivery Information
All pre-delivery inspections and services must be
performed at an authorized Daimler Trucks North
America LLC facility, assigned to fully qualified ser-
vice personnel and recorded on the "New Vehicle
Pre-Delivery Inspection" form.
Refer to Section 3 of the Daimler Trucks North
America LLC Warranty Manual for details.
It is recommended the pre-delivery inspection be per-
formed within 30 days of vehicle receipt.
8.8
1 2
8.8
10.9
10/19/93 3 4 f310224a
NOTE: Grade 2 bolts have no grade marking; grade 2 10.9
bolts are rarely used by Freightliner.
These grade markings are used on plain hex-type and 2
10/19/93 f310226a
flanged bolts (capscrews). In addition to the grade
NOTE: In addition to the class markings, the bolt head
markings, the bolt head must also carry the manufactur-
must also carry the manufacturer’s trademark or
er’s trademark or identification.
identification.
1. Grade 2 3. Grade 8
1. Class 8.8 2. Class 10.9
2. Grade 5 4. Grade 8.2
Fig. 4, Bolt Classes
Fig. 2, Bolt Grades
1 2 3
4 5 6
07/27/95 f310466
NOTE: Grade 2 (S.A.E.) and grade A (I.F.I.) nuts have no identification marks or notches; they are rarely used by Freight-
liner. Grade B (I.F.I.) nuts have three identification marks at 120 degrees, or 6 notches. Grade C (I.F.I.) nuts have three
identification marks at 60 degrees, or 12 notches. Grade G (I.F.I.) flanged nuts have six identification marks as shown;
each identification mark may be a dot, line, pair of dots or lines, or any other symbol at the manufacturer’s option.
1. S.A.E. Grade 2 or I.F.I. Grade A Nut (strength compatible with grade 2 bolt.)
2. S.A.E. Grade 5 Nut (strength compatible with grade 5 bolt.)
3. I.F.I. Grade B Nut (strength compatible with grade 5 bolt.)
4. S.A.E. Grade 8 Nut (strength compatible with grade 8 or grade 8.2 bolt.)
5. I.F.I. Grade C Nut (strength compatible with grade 8 or grade 8.2 bolt.)
6. I.F.I. Grade G Nut (flanged locknut; strength compatible with grade 8 or grade 8.2 bolt.)
1
1
2
05/03/91 f310227a
Frame Fasteners
The standard fasteners used to assemble the vehicle
frame and to attach most components to the vehicle
frame are threaded lockbolts (Spin Hucks). These 3
fasteners are covered in Section 31.00. 10/19/93 f310006a
1. Grade 8 Hexhead Bolt
For some other components attached to the frame, 2. Grade 8 Low-Profile Hexhead Bolt
grade 8 and 8.2 phosphate-and oil-coated hexhead 3. Grade C Prevailing Torque Locknut
bolts and grade C cadmium-plated and wax-coated
prevailing torque locknuts are used. The prevailing Fig. 6, Frame Fastener Identification
torque locknuts have distorted sections of threads to
provide torque retention. For attachments where When torquing a fastener, typically 80 to 90 percent
clearance is minimal, low-profile hexhead bolts and of the turning force is used to overcome friction; only
grade C prevailing torque locknuts are used. See 10 to 20 percent is used to stretch the capscrew or
Fig. 6. bolt. About 40 to 50 percent of the turning force is
needed to overcome the friction between the under-
side of the capscrew head or nut and the washer.
Tightening Fasteners Another 30 to 40 percent is needed to overcome the
friction between the threads of the capscrew and the
When a capscrew is tightened to its torque value in a threaded hole, or the friction between the threads of
threaded hole, or a nut is tightened to its torque the nut and bolt.
value on a bolt, the shank of the capscrew or bolt is
stretched slightly. This stretching (tensioning) results The amount of torque required to tighten a fastener
in a preload that reduces fatigue of the fasteners. is reduced when the amount of friction is reduced. If
The torque values given in the tables in Specifica- a fastener is dry (unlubricated) and plain (unplated),
tions, 400 have been calculated to provide enough the amount of friction is high. If a fastener is wax-
clamping force on the parts being fastened, and the coated or oiled, or has a zinc phosphate coating or
correct tensioning of the bolt to maintain the clamp- cadmium plating, the amount of friction is reduced.
ing force. Each of these coatings and combinations of coatings
has a different effect. Using zinc-plated hardened
Use of a torque wrench to tighten fasteners will help flatwashers under the bolt (capscrew) head and nut
prevent overtensioning them. Overtensioning causes reduces the amount of friction. Dirt or other foreign
permanent stretching of the fasteners, which can re-
sult in breakage of the parts or fasteners.
Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners With Lubricated* or Plated Threads†
Regular Hex Flanged
Thread
Grade 5 Grade 5 or Grade 8 or Grade 8 or Grade 5 Grade B Grade 8 or Grade G
Diameter–
Bolt B Nut 8.2 Bolt C Nut Bolt Nut 8.2 Bolt Nut
Pitch
Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Table 1, Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners With Lubricated or Plated Threads
Torque Values for U.S. Customary Thread Fasteners With Dry (Unlubricated)* Plain (Unplated) Threads†
Regular Hex Flanged
Thread Grade 5 or B Grade 8 or 8.2 Grade 8 or C Grade 8 or 8.2
Grade 5 Bolt Grade G Nut
Diameter–Pitch Nut Bolt Nut Bolt
Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Torque Values for Metric Thread Fasteners With Lubricated* or Plated Threads†
Thread Class 8.8 Bolt Class 8 Nut Class 10.9 Bolt Class 10 Nut
Diameter–Pitch Torque: lbf·ft (N·m) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
8.8 8 10.9 10
M6 5 (7) 7 (9)
M8 12 (16) 17 (23)
M8 x 1 13 (18) 18 (24)
M10 24 (33) 34 (46)
M10 x 1.25 27 (37) 38 (52)
M12 42 (57) 60 (81)
M12 x 1.5 43 (58) 62 (84)
M14 66 (89) 95 (129)
M14 x 1.5 72 (98) 103 (140)
M16 103 (140) 148 (201)
M16 x 1.5 110 (149) 157 (213)
M18 147 (199) 203 (275)
M18 x 1.5 165 (224) 229 (310)
M20 208 (282) 288 (390)
M20 x 1.5 213 (313) 320 (434)
M22 283 (384) 392 (531)
M22 x 1.5 315 (427) 431 (584)
M24 360 (488) 498 (675)
M24 x 2 392 (531) 542 (735)
M27 527 (715) 729 (988)
M27 x 2 569 (771) 788 (1068)
M30 715 (969) 990 (1342)
M30 x 2 792 (1074) 1096 (1486)
* Freightliner recommends that all plated and unplated fasteners be coated with oil before installation.
† Use these torque values if either the bolt or nut is lubricated or plated (zinc-phosphate conversion-coated,
cadmium-plated, or waxed).
Table 3, Torque Values for Metric Thread Fasteners With Lubricated or Plated
Threads
IMPORTANT: See Subject 060 for the vehicle VIN as the "CHASSIS" number. The "CABIN"
identification numbering system for vehicles built number is part of the Freightliner VIN, the last
May 1, 2000, or later. six digits of which are the Freightliner serial
number.
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 115 specifies
that all vehicles sold in the U.S. be assigned a 17- IMPORTANT: A new VIN-code structure will be
character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Using used for all vehicles built after April 30, 2000.
a combination of letters and numerals, the VIN de- Character positions 1 through 4 and 9 through
fines the manufacturer, model, and major characteris- 17 are nearly the same in both versions, but
tics of the vehicle. See Table 1 for the character po-
positions 5 through 8 have been assigned
sitions of a typical Freightliner VIN,
1FUYSTEBXVPA99999. slightly different parameters. As a result, the
build date of a vehicle must be determined be-
The VIN can be found on the Vehicle Specification fore the VIN can be decoded.
Decal (see the driver’s manual for decal location)
and stamped on the left frame rail over the front axle For all vehicles, a check digit (9th character) is deter-
about 2 inches (50 mm) from the top of the web or mined by assignment of weighted values to the other
on the top flange of the left frame rail at frame sta- 16 characters. These weighted values are processed
tion 30. through a series of equations designed to check va-
lidity of the VIN and to detect VIN alteration.
NOTE: For Freightliner vehicles assembled and
sold in Mexico, the VIN appears on a plate or NOTE: Always specify the VIN when ordering
label attached to the driver’s door. Also, a data parts.
card placed in the glove box shows the Mexican
VIN Position 4 (Chassis, Front Axle Position, Brakes) VIN Position 4 (Chassis, Front Axle Position, Brakes)
Front Axle Front Axle
Code Chassis Brakes Code Chassis Brakes
Position Position
A 4 x 2 Truck Forward Hydraulic X 6 x 4 Truck Setback Air
B 8 x 4 Truck-Tractor Setback Air Y 6 x 4 Truck-Tractor Setback Air
C 6 x 6 Truck-Tractor Setback Air Z 6 x 2 Truck Setback Air
D 4 x 4 Truck Setback Hydraulic 1 4 x 2 Truck * Forward Air/Hydraulic
E 4 x 4 Truck Setback Air 10 x 6 Truck † Setback Air
F 8 x 4 Truck Forward Air 2 4 x 4 Truck Setback Air
G 8 x 4 Truck-Tractor Forward Air 3 4 x 2 Truck Setback Hydraulic
H 4 x 2 Truck Forward Air 4 8 x 4 Truck Setback Air
J 10 x 4 Truck All Air 5 6 x 2 Truck-Tractor Setback Air
K 4 x 2 Truck-Tractor Forward Air 6 4 x 2 Truck Setback Air
L 6 x 2 Truck Forward Air 7 Glider Setback Air
M 6 x 2 Truck-Tractor Forward Air 8 Glider Forward Air
N 6 x 4 Truck Forward Air 9 4 x 2 Truck Setback Air/Hydraulic
P 6 x 4 Truck-Tractor Forward Air 0 Glider Setback Air
* Starting August 1998.
R 10 x 6 Truck Forward Air
† Through July 1998; included in code R starting August 1998.
S 10 x 6 Truck-Tractor Forward Air
Table 3, VIN Position 4 (Chassis, Front Axle Position,
T 6 x 6 Truck Setback Air Brakes), January 18,1988 through April 30, 2000
U 8 x 6 Truck All Air
V 8 x 6 Truck-Tractor All Air
W 4 x 2 Truck-Tractor Setback Air
VIN Position 5 (Model Series, Cab) VIN Position 5 (Model Series, Cab)
Code Vehicle Model, Cab Code Vehicle Model, Cab
A FLA High COE V MB60 Short Conventional (to 95MY)
B FLB High COE Legacy FL112 (00MY)
C 120 Conventional XL W FC80 Freightliner Cargo COE
D FLD120 Conventional, Highway X MB70 Short Conventional (to 97MY)
E FL50 Short Conventional Legacy FLD120 (00MY)
F FLD120SD Conventional, Construction Y MB80 Short Conventional (through 98MY)
G FL60 Short Conventional Z 112 Conventional, Steel Cab, Highway
H FL70 Short Conventional 1 FLC112 Conv., Steel Cab, Constr. (to 98MY)
J FL80 Short Conventional 2 FLC120 Conventional (to 91MY)
L 112 Conv., Alum. Cab, Hwy., 48RR94MY * FC60 Freightliner Cargo COE
Argosy High COE 3 FLD112 Conventional, Alum. Cab, Highway
M 120 Conventional, Military 4 Low COE, Aluminum Cab
N Century Class 112 Conventional 5 MB50 Short Conventional
P 120 Conv., Alum. Cab, Hwy., 48RR94MY 6 FLD112SD Conv., Alum. Cab, Construction
Columbia 120 Conventional 7 FLD120 Conventional, SilverAero (91MY)
R 112 Conventional, Steel Cab, Hwy., RH Drive FC70 Freightliner Cargo COE
S Century Class 120 Conventional 8 FL106 Short Conventional
T High COE (through 88MY) 9 RIV
* MY = Model Year
FL112 Conventional
Table 4, VIN Position 5 (Model Series, Cab)
U 120 Conventional XL, 48RR94MY
IMPORTANT: See Subject 050 for the vehicle IMPORTANT: A new VIN-code structure will be
identification numbering system for vehicles built used for all vehicles built after April 30, 2000. As
before May 1, 2000. a result, the build date of a vehicle must be de-
termined before the VIN can be decoded.
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 115 specifies
that all vehicles sold in the U.S. be assigned a 17- Character positions 1 through 4 and 9 through 17 are
character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Using nearly the same in both versions, but positions 5
a combination of letters and numerals, the VIN de- through 8 have been assigned slightly different pa-
fines the manufacturer, model, and major characteris- rameters.
tics of the vehicle. See Table 1 for the character po-
sitions of a typical Freightliner VIN, Another new feature is that each product line has its
1FUPABAV11PA12345. own model list; that is, positions 5 and 6 are will be
product-specific in the new system. For example, the
The VIN can be found on the Vehicle Specification code AB in positions 5 and 6 for a Freightliner ve-
Decal (see the driver’s manual for decal location) hicle indicates an FLD112. Code AB in the same po-
and stamped on the left frame rail over the front axle sition for a Sterling vehicle represents an SC7000
about 2 inches (50 mm) from the top of the web or Cargo.
on the top flange of the left frame rail at frame sta-
tion 30. For all vehicles, a check digit (9th character) is deter-
mined by assignment of weighted values to the other
NOTE: For Freightliner vehicles assembled and 16 characters. These weighted values are processed
sold in Mexico, the VIN appears on a plate or through a series of equations designed to check va-
label attached to the driver’s door. Also, a data lidity of the VIN and to detect VIN alteration.
card placed in the glove box shows the Mexican NOTE: Always specify the VIN when ordering
VIN as the "CHASSIS" number. The "CABIN" parts.
number is part of the Freightliner VIN, the last
six digits of which are the Freightliner serial
number.
Decking Devices
4 5
WARNING 3
The lift brackets are intended only for undecking
trucks. Do not use them for vehicle towing or re-
covery. If used improperly, personal injury or 6
property damage could result.
Removal
04/19/96 f580137
1. Remove the nut and bolt securing lifting bracket
Fig. 1, Lift Brackets to the tow hook.
2. Remove the lifting bracket from the tow hook cut-
Installation out.
CAUTION
When installing the lifting brackets, be sure that
they do not contact or interfere with any air lines.
Improper installation could result in component
damage.
2. Insert the bolt through the lift bracket to secure it
around the tow hook and securely tighten the nut
on the bolt.
3. The vehicle can now be safely hoisted for un-
decking. Make sure the undecking area is free of
General Information outlet tube. From the outlet tube, the oil goes back to
the engine through the outlet check valve assembly.
A bypass oil filter is a remote-mounted oil filter An engine equipped with the Model LF 750 needs
plumbed to the engine. Not all of the engine oil runs three gallons (11.3 liters) more oil than an engine
through a bypass filter, the filter bleeds some of the without a bypass oil filter.
oil from the engine, the rest of the oil "bypasses" the
filter and stays within the engine. LUBER-FINER MODEL 750-CT (Fig. 2
Normal engine operation produces a variety of con- and Fig. 3)
taminants such as resins, gums, and acids. The by-
pass oil filter -- sometimes used with a full-flow filter
(an engine-mounted filter that all the oil must run
through) -- traps these contaminants and prevents
excessive wear of engine parts. The filtered oil then
returns to the engine crankcase or sump.
Freightliner uses the following models of bypass oil
filters:
• Fleetguard® Model LF 750™
• Luber-finer® Model 750-CT
• Spinner II®
04/26/95 f010948
1
B
04/28/95 f010955
05/10/95 f010949
A. Oil Out C. Oil In
B. Air In
1. Air Valve Cartridge Seal
3
11
4 6 7
10
06/30/95 12 f010109a
1. Clamp Ring 5. T-Handle 9. Housing
2. Clamp-Ring Capscrew 6. O-Ring 10. Inlet Check Valve Assembly
3. Cover 7. Spring 11. Outlet Tube
4. Cover Gasket 8. Filter Element 12. Retaining Ring
7 8
05/10/95 f010952
1. Cover 6. Seal, Centrifuge Bowl 11. Capscrew, M10 x 35 mm
2. Clamp 7. Paper Insert 12. Seal, Control Mechanism
3. Cover Seal 8. Baffle/Screen 13. Control Mechanism
4. Nut, Centrifuge Bowl 9. Centrifuge Turbine 14. Air Valve Cartridge Assembly
5. Centrifuge Bowl 10. Housing Assembly 15. Seal, Air Valve Cartridge
1. Clean the centrifuge bowl. 1.6 Replace the dirty centrifuge bowl with a
new one, or carefully remove the cake of
1.1 Shut off the engine, and let the centrifuge dirt from the bowl with a wooden spatula
turbine assembly come to a complete or other non-damaging tool. Wipe out the
stop. bowl with solvent
1.2 Loosen the handle on the clamp, disen- NOTE: To save time cleaning the bowl, an
gage the tee bolt and remove the cover, optional die-cut Bristol paper insert is avail-
using a coin in the gap to separate the able for lining the bowl so the compressed
cover from the housing.
cake of dirt can be removed quickly.
1.3 Partially withdraw the centrifuge turbine
1.7 Wash the baffle/screen and turbine base,
assembly from the housing and allow oil
removing and discarding the black Nitrile
to drain from the nozzles before removing
bowl seal.
the assembly completely.
2. Inspect and assemble the centrifuge turbine as-
1.4 Hold the centrifuge turbine assembly in
sembly.
one hand and loosen the knurled nut sev-
eral turns until the face of the nut projects 2.1 Inspect the top and bottom bushings of
beyond the bronze bushing face. the centrifuge turbine base, and replace
the turbine assembly if the bushings show
1.5 Carefully separate the centrifuge bowl
severe wear.
from the turbine base by striking the face
of the nut with the palm of one hand
3.3 Remove the old cover seal, and clean the NOTE: This is a view, downward into the housing as-
groove in the housing and the mating sur- sembly, with the centrifuge turbine assembly removed.
face of the cover. A. Use the hook at this point to hook the float arm.
B. 3/8 Inch (10 mm)
3.4 Replace the cover seal with a new black C. 9 Inches (229 mm)
Nitrile seal. 1. Manufacturer Date Code
2. Hook
4. Check the air valve control mechanism. See
Fig. 2. Fig. 2, Check The Air Valve
4.1 Make a hook out of stiff wire, according to
the measurements in Fig. 2.
4.2 Insert the hook at the spot shown in
Fig. 2, and hook the float arm.
Lifting the float should release air into the
filter housing.
Lowering the float should stop the flow of
air into the filter housing.
5. Install the centrifuge turbine assembly.
5.1 Install the centrifuge turbine assembly,
and make sure it rotates freely.
5.2 Replace the cover, and position the clamp
uniformly over the cover and housing
flanges.
5.3 Tighten the clamp handle securely by
hand pressure only.
6. With the engine running, check all the oil filter
connections and joints for leaks.
3
06/17/94 f010385a
1. Starting Fluid Cylinder
2. Dieselmatic Valve
3. Blockor Fitting
WARNING
Service starting fluid systems only in a well-
ventilated area away from sparks and open
flames. The ethyl ether in these systems is flam-
mable and toxic. Wear protective gloves and
glasses, and avoid breathing ether fumes. Failure
to take these precautions could result in personal
injury or property damage.
3. Remove the old cylinder.
3.1 Clean all dirt from the neck of the cylinder
and the top of the Dieselmatic® valve be-
fore removing the cylinder.
3.2 Loosen the cylinder clamp.
3.3 Pry the dirt eliminator collar off the neck
of the cylinder.
3.4 Unscrew the cylinder from the Die-
selmatic valve.
CAUTION
Do this test only two times. Activating the start-
ing fluid system in this manner more than twice
could result in damage to the system.
6. If ether sprays from the fitting, but not from the
tubing, check for kinks or blockages in the ether
tubing and the nozzle. Repair or replace the tub-
ing and nozzle, as needed.
If no ether sprays from the fitting or tubing, check
the Blockor fitting for blockages. Repair or re-
place the fitting, as needed.
3
1 4
08/02/95 f011017
1. Control Valve 4. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw 6. Bridge
2. Solenoid Valve (Reset) 7. Master Piston
3. Accumulator Piston 5. Slave Piston
2
9
7
3
4
6
5 5
08/02/95 f011019
A. Oil In
1. Solenoid Valve 5. Exhaust Valve 8. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw
2. Control Valve 6. Slave Piston Assembly (Reset)
3. Master Piston 7. Leveling Screw 9. Accumulator
4. Injector Pin and Roller
Removal
WARNING
The accumulator spring is under strong compres-
sion. Be careful when removing the retaining ring
and cover. Wear safety glasses. If the spring is
accidentally released, personal injury could re-
sult.
Inspection
Inspect the parts for wear and damage. Replace
parts as needed.
Installation
1. Install the piston, spring, cover, and retaining
ring.
2. Install the engine brake housing. For instructions,
refer to Subject 130.
05/24/95 f010445a
05/24/95 f010446a
Removal
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and
chock the tires.
2. Disconnect the batteries.
3. Tilt the hood.
4. Wipe the engine brake housing area clean, and
1
remove the valve cover. For instructions, refer to
the engine manufacturer’s service literature. 2
5. Disconnect the solenoid harness. 3
6. Using a 7/8-inch socket and extension, unscrew 09/20/93 f010256a
the solenoid valve. See Fig. 1. 1. Upper Seal Ring
2. Center Seal Ring
3. Lower Seal Ring
Installation
1. Coat a new set of solenoid seal rings with clean
lubricating oil. Install the upper and middle seal
rings on the solenoid body and the lower seal
ring into the bottom of the solenoid bore in the
housing. See Fig. 3.
05/24/95 f010427a
CAUTION
Do not disassemble or tamper with the solenoid
valve. Engine damage could result.
7. Remove and discard the three rubber seal rings.
See Fig. 2. If the lower ring stays in the bottom
of the solenoid bore in the housing, remove it
with a piece of wire.
8. Wash out the solenoid valve with a cleaning sol-
vent that meets OSHA guidlines. Use a brush to
clean the oil screen.
9. Dry the valve with compressed air.
10. Using clean paper towels, clean out the solenoid
valve bore in the housing. Do not use rags, since 05/24/95 f010428a
they can leave lint and residue, which can plug
the oil passageways. Fig. 3, Install the Seal Rings
Removal
WARNING
Never remove any engine brake component with
the engine running. Hot oil spray may cause per-
sonal injury.
05/24/95 f010425a
09/20/93 f010426a
1. Longer Sleeve Area Up
07/11/95 f010416
1. Valve Cover Cap, Aluminum Style 1
2. Valve Cover Base
1
1
09/20/93 f010418
1. Rear
2. Exhaust Manifold
07/10/95 f010417
1. Valve Cover Cap, Aluminum (Style 2)
2. Valve Cover Base
5. Remove the engine brake housing hold-down Fig. 4, Spacer Bar Placement
capscrews. There is one capscrew per housing
05/24/95 f010422a
05/24/95 f010421a
Removal Installation
1. Remove the engine brake housing from the ve- 1. Install the master piston, spring, washer, and
hicle. For instructions, refer to Subject 130. screw in the housing. See Fig. 3.
2. Remove the screw, washer, and master piston
spring from the housing. See Fig. 1.
05/24/95 f010444a
05/24/95 f010443a
Inspection
1. Clean the piston in a cleaning solvent.
2. Inspect the piston for excessive wear and for
damage. Replace the piston if necessary.
Removal
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and
chock the tires.
2. Disconnect the batteries.
3. Tilt the hood.
4. Wipe the engine brake housing area clean, and
remove the valve cover. For instructions, refer to
the engine manufacturer’s service literature.
5. Loosen the slave piston adjusting screw locknut
and remove the adjusting screw from the hous-
12/09/94 f010506a
ing. See Fig. 1.
Fig. 2, Check the Plunger
Installation
1. Screw the slave piston adjusting screw into the
housing.
2. Reset the engine brake lash. For instructions,
refer to Subject 160.
05/24/95 f010439a
Inspection
1. Clean the adjusting screw in cleaning solvent.
2. Inspect the slave piston adjusting screw. The
plunger should protrude from the bottom of the
screw. There should be light spring pressure
when the plunger is depressed, and the plunger
should move freely. See Fig. 2. Be sure the re-
taining ring is fully engaged in its groove. If any
defect is found, replace the entire screw assem-
bly.
CAUTION
Do not disassemble or tamper with the slave pis-
ton adjusting screw assembly. Engine damage
could result.
05/24/95 f010431a
Fig. 1, Remove the Screw and Spring 2. Install the slave piston and the bridge with the
leveling screw toward the center of the housing.
3. Remove the bridge and the slave piston. See See Fig. 4.
Fig. 2.
06/29/95 f010432a
06/29/95 f010430a
Fig. 4, Install the Slave Piston and Bridge
Fig. 2, Remove the Slave Piston 3. Install the slave piston assembly retaining spring
with the ends over the bridge. See Fig. 5.
4. Loosen the leveling screw locknut and remove
the leveling screw from the bridge. See Fig. 3. 4. Install the screw over the center part of the
spring. Tighten the screw 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Inspection 5. Install the engine brake housing on the engine
using the instructions in Subject 130.
1. Inspect all components for excessive wear and
for damage.
Fig. 5, Install the Retaining Spring Fig. 6, Back Out the Leveling Screw
Adjusting
CAUTION
Follow the slave piston adjustment procedure
exactly. Failure to use the correct adjustment
procedure will result in poor engine brake perfor-
mance and serious engine damage.
1
2
09/20/93 f010436
05/24/95 f010438a
1. Serial Number
2. Model Number
Fig. 10, Check the Clearance
Fig. 8, Engine Brake Identification
05/24/95 f010437a
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Engine Will Not Start
Problem—Engine Will Not Start
Possible Cause Remedy
The solenoid valve is stuck in the "on" Make sure the electrical current to the engine brake is off. If the solenoid
position. valve stays "on" (cap down) with the current off, replace the solenoid
valve.
Problem—Engine Stalls or One or More Cylinders Continue Braking With the Dash Switches Off
Problem—Engine Stalls or One or More
Cylinders Continue Braking With the Dash
Switches Off
Possible Cause Remedy
The control valve inner spring is broken. Replace the inner spring.
One or more control valves are stuck in the Check the control valves for binding. Remove and clean or replace them if
"on" (up) position. necessary. Inspect the lubrication oil for contaminants.
The solenoid valve is sticking in the "on" If the solenoid valve cap remains down with no electric current being
position. supplied, replace the solenoid valve.
The center solenoid seal ring is damaged, Remove the solenoid and replace all the seal rings.
allowing oil to enter the engine brake with the
solenoid valve closed.
The solenoid valve exhaust is plugged. Remove any restrictions at the exhaust (bottom) of the solenoid valve.
The dash switch is stuck in the "on" position. Check for correct switch operation. Replace the switch as needed.
A D
B E
C F
11/21/94 f150010a
A. Glazing C. Streaked Sidewalls E. Uneven Ribs
B. Separating Layers D. Tensile Break F. Cracks
06/23/94 f150012a
06/23/94 f150011a
1. Groove in Pulley Wall
2. Small Straightedge
Removal 10. Remove the radiator and charge air cooler. For
instructions, refer to Section 20.01 in this
manual. Remove the radiator mounting bracket
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and
with the radiator.
drain the air system.
Make sure the charge air cooler hoses are dis-
2. Disconnect the batteries.
connected from the turbocharger and intake
3. Drain the oil from the engine. manifold.
11. Remove the power steering fluid pump, and
WARNING move the pump out of the way without breaking
the lines or draining the fluid. For instructions,
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en- refer to Group 46.
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald- 12. Remove the surge tank and its coolant hoses.
ing. For instructions, refer to Section 20.01 in this
manual.
4. Drain the coolant from the lower radiator hose
and the radiator. For instructions, refer to Sec- 13. Remove the windshield wiper pan. For instruc-
tion 20.01. tions, refer to Group 60 in this manual.
5. Remove the hood and the bumper. For instruc- 14. Remove the windshield wiper linkage. For in-
tions, refer to Group 88 in this manual. structions, refer to Group 82.
6. Remove the air cleaner housing and ducting 15. Disconnect or remove the remaining ducts and
along with the heat shield between the cleaner lines.
and the turbocharger. For instructions, refer to 15.1 Disconnect the outlet line and the signal
Group 09 in this manual. line from the air compressor.
7. Disconnect the wiring from the back of the alter- 15.2 Disconnect the air line from the fan clutch
nator. solenoid, and free the line from routing
8. Move the air conditioning components out of the clamps.
way without breaking the refrigerant lines. 15.3 Disconnect the heater supply and return
8.1 Free the refrigerant lines from all routing hoses from the right side of the engine
clamps and stand-off brackets between and move them out of the way.
the compressor and the condenser. 15.4 If so equipped, disconnect the ether injec-
8.2 Free the refrigerant lines from all routing tion line from the intake manifold.
clamps and stand-off brackets between 16. Label and disconnect the wiring.
the receiver-drier and the condenser.
17. Remove the clutch linkage.
8.3 Remove the condenser mounting fasten-
ers, and move the condenser aside. 18. From under the vehicle, disconnect the transmis-
sion shift linkage.
8.4 Remove the refrigerant compressor and
move it aside. 19. Disconnect the driveline from the transmission.
For instructions refer to Group 41 in this manual.
8.5 Use tie straps to secure the refrigerant
compressor out of the way. 20. If so equipped, mark and disconnect the trans-
mission oil cooler lines.
8.6 Using cardboard and tie straps, wrap the
condenser to protect it. 21. If present, disconnect the air line from the trans-
mission.
9. Remove the air recirculation shields around the
radiator and the charge air cooler. For instruc- 22. Remove the overslung crossmember.
tions, refer to Section 20.01 in this manual.
23. Under the engine, disconnect or remove the re- 25.7 Once the engine and transmission are
maining components. clear of the vehicle, place them on engine
stands.
23.1 To gain access to the rear engine
mounts, remove the section of exhaust 26. If installing a new engine, remove all the appli-
ducting that runs from the turbocharger. cable components and transfer them to the new
engine.
23.2 Disconnect the fuel return lines at the
rear of the transmission. For instructions, Disconnect the transmission from the engine.
refer to Group 47 in this manual. Refer to Group 26 for instructions. Be sure to
disconnect the fuel lines at the rear of the en-
Leave the fuel lines installed on the en- gine.
gine.
23.3 Disconnect the starter motor and solenoid
power cables. Disconnect any ground
Installation
straps present. 1. If installing a new engine, connect the transmis-
23.4 Remove the bolts that hold the engine sion to the engine. Refer to Group 26 for instruc-
legs to the rear engine mounts. tions.
24. If so equipped, remove the transmission oil
cooler from the underslung crossmember. WARNING
The crane and lifting chains used to install the
WARNING engine and transmission must be capable of
safely lifting and supporting two metric tons.
The crane and lifting chains used to remove the Once the engine is removed from the engine
engine and the transmission must be capable of stands, do not get under the engine until it is se-
safely lifting and supporting two metric tons. curely supported on the engine mounts. An unse-
Once the engine mounts are disconnected, do cured engine may fall, causing personal injury or
not get under the engine until it is securely sup- death, and component damage.
ported on engine stands. An unsecured engine
may fall, causing personal injury or death, and 2. Install the engine in the vehicle.
component damage.
2.1 Attach the chain to the lifting eyes at the
25. Remove the engine from the vehicle. front and the rear of the engine.
25.1 Attach the chain to the lifting eyes at the 2.2 With the engine lifting eyes connected by
front and the rear of the engine. chain to the crane, lift the engine and the
transmission together, and position the
25.2 With the engine lifting eyes connected by engine on the rear engine mounts.
chain to the crane, raise the crane
enough to tighten the chains, but not Install the bolts and nuts. Tighten finger
enough to lift the front of the vehicle. tight.
25.3 Remove the nuts from the bolts that fas- 2.3 Place a jack under the front of the en-
ten the front engine support bracket to gine. Install the underslung crossmember.
the underslung crossmember. Tighten the fasteners 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).
25.4 Put a jackstand under the front of the en- 2.4 Assemble the lower isolator under the
gine. underslung crossmember and the front
engine support bracket, and secure the
25.5 Remove the underslung crossmember. front engine mount with nuts and wash-
25.6 Using the crane, lift the engine and the ers. Tighten the nuts 213 to 269 lbf·ft
transmission as a unit and pull them for- (289 to 365 N·m).
ward. 2.5 Tighten the bolt that runs down through
each engine leg, rubber isolators, and
rear engine mount 213 to 269 lbf·ft (289 Connect the charge air cooler tubing to the tur-
to 365 N·m). bocharger and the intake manifold.
2.6 Once the engine is securely installed in 14. Install the air recirculation shields around the ra-
the vehicle, remove the lifting chains. diator and charge air cooler. For instructions, re-
fer to Group 20 in this manual.
3. If so equipped, install the transmission oil cooler.
15. Install the air conditioning components without
4. Connect and install components under the en-
breaking the refrigerant lines.
gine.
15.1 Install the condenser. For instructions,
4.1 Connect the power cables to the starter
refer to Group 83 of this manual.
motor and solenoid. Connect any ground
straps. 15.2 Install the refrigerant compressor.
4.2 Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbo- 15.3 Route and clamp the refrigerant lines be-
charger. Tighten 85 lbf·in (940 N·cm). tween the compressor and the condenser.
4.3 Connect the fuel lines. For instructions, 15.4 Route and clamp the refrigerant lines be-
refer to Group 47 of this manual. tween the receiver dryer and the con-
denser.
5. Install the clutch linkage. For instructions, refer to
Group 25 in this manual. 16. Connect the wiring to the back of the alternator.
6. From under the vehicle, install the overslung 17. Install the windshield wiper pan. For instructions,
crossmember. Tighten the fasteners 136 lbf·ft refer to Group 60.
(184 N·m).
18. Install the wiper linkage. For instructions, refer to
7. Connect the driveline to the transmission. Group 82 in this manual.
8. Connect the transmission shift linkage. For in- 19. Install the surge tank and its coolant lines. For
structions, refer to Group 26 in this manual. instructions, refer to Section 20.01 in this
manual.
9. If applicable, connect the oil cooler hoses and air
lines to the transmission. For instructions, refer 20. Install the heat shield below the air cleaner.
to Group 26 in this manual.
21. Install the air cleaner housing and the ducting for
10. Install the power steering fluid pump. For instruc- the turbocharger. For instructions, refer to
tions, refer to Group 46 in this manual. Group 09 in this manual.
11. Connect the wiring. For wiring harness informa- 22. Install the hood and the bumper. For instructions,
tion, refer to Group 54 in this manual. refer to Group 88 in this manual.
12. Connect or install the ducts and lines. 23. Fill the radiator.
12.1 Connect the air compressor outlet and 24. Fill the engine with the correct amount of oil.
signal lines.
25. Check the level of the transmission oil. If
12.2 Connect the air line to the fan clutch sole- needed, fill it to the correct level.
noid.
26. Connect the batteries.
12.3 Connect the heater supply and return
lines. 27. Start the engine, and check for leaks. Repair any
leaks found.
12.4 If so equipped, connect the ether injection
line to the intake manifold. 28. Test drive the vehicle.
belt is tensioned 100 lbf (445 N) per belt, 4.1 Install a belt tension gauge at the center
200 lbf (890 N) if using a joined belt. of the belt’s longest free-span.
4.3 Tighten the alternator jam nut 130 lbf·ft IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belt.
(176 N·m). Too much tension shortens belt and bearing
4.4 Tighten the alternator pivot bolts 70 lbf·ft life.
(95 N·m). 4.2 Turn the adjusting rod to increase belt
4.5 Remove the chocks from the tires. tension to 100 lbf (445 N).
4.6 Operate the engine for about 30 minutes 4.3 Tighten the fan hub mounting capscrews
or 15 miles (24 km) and recheck the belt 75 to 83 lbf·ft (100 to 112 N·m).
tension. Re-tension to a minimum of 75 4.4 Check the belt tension and adjust it if
lbf (334 N) per belt, 150 lbf (668 N) if us- needed.
ing a joined belt. Check again after 8
hours of operation or 250 miles (400 km). 4.5 Remove the chocks from the tires.
Adjust the belt tension as needed. 4.6 Operate the engine for about 30 minutes
or 15 miles (24 km) and recheck the belt
Fan Belt tension. Re-tension to a minimum of 75
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the lbf (334 N). Check again after 8 hours of
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock operation or 250 miles (400 km). Adjust
the tires. the belt tension as needed.
2. Remove the belt. See Fig. 1.
Belt Replacement With an
2.1 Loosen the four mounting capscrews that
attach the fan hub to the engine. Automatic Belt Tensioner
2.2 Loosen the fan adjusting rod to relieve Alternator and Refrigerant
tension from the belt.
Compressor Belt
2.3 Remove the belt by slipping it off the pul-
leys and working it over one fan blade at 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
a time. On some vehicles, it may be nec- parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock
essary to remove the fan. For instruc- the tires.
tions, see Section 20.01. Do not roll or 2. Remove the belt. See Fig. 2.
pry the belt off the pulleys. The distance
between the pulley centers must be short 2.1 Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt
enough to allow belt removal without us- tensioner and rotate the tensioner away
ing force. from the accessory drive belt.
3. Install the belt. 2.2 Holding the belt tensioner down, remove
the belt from the alternator pulley.
3.1 Inspect the pulleys and the belt (even if
installing a new belt) as instructed in 2.3 Remove the belt from the refrigerant com-
Subject 100. pressor pulley and the engine pulley.
3.2 Work the belt over the fan blades, one 2.4 Slowly release the belt tensioner and re-
blade at a time. Install the belt on the pul- move the breaker bar.
leys without rolling or prying it into place. 3. Install the belt.
3.3 While keeping the belt seated in the pul- 3.1 Inspect the pulleys and the belt (even if
ley grooves, turn the adjusting rod to in- installing a new belt) as instructed in
crease belt tension. Subject 100.
4. Adjust the belt.
Fan Belt
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock
3 the tires.
2. Remove the belt. See Fig. 3.
4 2.1 Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt
tensioner and rotate the tensioner away
from the fan drive belt.
2.2 Holding the belt tensioner down, remove
the belt from the fan pulley and the en-
2 gine pulley.
2.3 Slowly release the belt tensioner and re-
move the breaker bar.
03/29/2001 f011973 2
1. Engine Pulley
2. Alternator Pulley
3. Refrigerant Compressor Pulley
4. Automatic Belt Tensioner
General Description
Three mounts support the engine and transmission,
holding a total of almost 3800 lb (1724 kg). Two of
the engine mounts support the rear of the engine
and transmission assembly. The third supports the
front of the assembly.
Each of the rear engine mounts ( Fig. 1) is bolted to
the inside of the frame rail near the flywheel housing.
These mounts support legs which are bolted to the
flywheel housing. The V-shaped rear engine leg sets
into a V-shaped rear engine mount. See Fig. 2.
The front engine mount is an underslung crossmem-
ber under the front of the engine. It supports a 01/05/2000 f220075
bracket ( Fig. 3) that is bolted to the engine at each
side of the vibration damper pulley. Fig. 2, Engine Legs (Detroit Diesel Series 60)
1
2
2
3
3
08/04/95 f220055
06/07/95 f220056
Replacement
1
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and (if
4
applicable) drain the air brake system.
2 5
WARNING
3
The jack used to lift the engine must be capable
of safely lifting and supporting two metric tons.
Once the engine mount is disconnected, do not
get under the engine until it is securely sup-
ported on engine stands. An unsecured engine 6
may fall, causing personal injury or death, and
component damage.
2. Disconnect the engine from the right rear engine 5
mount. See Fig. 1. 7 8
2.1 Place a jack under the rear of the engine,
and raise the jack until it’s braced against 9
the engine. 10
6. Inspect the engine mount rubber isolators for gine mount, and secure it with the nut and
wear or damage and replace them if necessary. hardened washer. Tighten the nut 213 to
269 lbf·ft (289 to 365 N·m).
CAUTION 9. Repeat this procedure for the other rear engine
mount.
Do not lubricate the components with oil, grease,
or silicone lubricants; they will deteriorate the 10. Remove the jack from under the engine, and re-
rubber isolators. move the chocks from the tires.
7. Install the upper isolator in the engine mount. In
order for the isolator holes to align with the holes
in the engine mount, the painted side of the iso-
lator must be towards the engine. Fasten the iso-
lator to the mount, and tighten the hexbolts 14 to
18 lbf·ft (19 to 24 N·m).
WARNING
The jack used to lower the engine must be ca-
pable of safely lifting and supporting two metric
tons. Once the engine is removed from the en-
gine stands, do not get under the engine until it
is securely installed on the engine mount. An un-
secured engine may fall, causing personal injury
or death, and component damage.
8. Secure the engine to the engine mounts.
8.1 If not in place, set a jack under the rear of
the engine and raise the jack until it is
braced against the engine.
8.2 Lift the engine slightly to remove the en-
gine stands. Remove the stands, and
carefully lower the engine onto the engine
mount.
8.3 Holding the lower isolator and snubber in
place, install the bolt in the right rear en-
Replacement
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and (if 1
applicable) drain the air brake system.
1
2
WARNING
2
The lifting device and chain used to lift the en-
gine must be capable of safely lifting and sup-
porting two metric tons. Once the engine mount
is disconnected, do not get under the engine un- 3
til it is securely supported on engine stands. An
unsecured engine may fall, causing personal in-
jury or death, and component damage.
2. Disconnect the engine from the front engine
mount. See Fig. 1. 4
2.1 Attach a chain to the front engine lifting
hook(s), and position a lifting device to lift
the engine. Attach the chain to the lifting
device, and raise the chain to remove any
slack.
2.2 Remove the bolt(s) from the front engine
mount. Save the fasteners, rubber isolator
cushions, and snubber(s).
NOTE: In order to raise the front of the en-
gine, you may have to loosen the bolts that 5
run through the rear engine mounts. 2
6 2
2.3 Lift the engine slightly to take its weight 6
off the front engine mount. Place engine 03/20/95 f220052
stands under the engine to keep it off the 1. Hexbolt, 3/4-10 x 4 Inch, Grade 8
engine mount. 2. Washer
3. Front Engine Support Bracket
3. If you’re replacing the front engine support 4. Upper Isolator
bracket, refer to the engine manufacturer’s ser- 5. Lower Isolator
vice literature. 6. Nut, 3/4-10
4. Inspect the engine mount rubber isolators for Fig. 1, Front Engine Mount Assembly (typical)
wear or damage and replace them if necessary.
WARNING
CAUTION
The lifting device and chain used to lower the
Do not lubricate the components with oil, grease, engine must be capable of safely lifting and sup-
or silicone lubricants; they will deteriorate the porting two metric tons. Once the engine is re-
rubber isolators. moved from the engine stands, do not get under
5. Install the upper isolator(s) in the engine mount. the engine until it is securely installed on the en-
If applicable, place the snubber(s) on the isola- gine mount. An unsecured engine may fall, caus-
tor(s). ing personal injury or death, and component
damage.
Replacement
1
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and (if
4
applicable) drain the air brake system.
2 5
WARNING
3
The jack used to lift the engine must be capable
of safely lifting and supporting two metric tons.
Once the engine mount is disconnected, do not
get under the engine until it is securely sup-
ported on engine stands. An unsecured engine 6
may fall, causing personal injury or death, and
component damage.
2. Disconnect the engine from the right rear engine 5
mount. See Fig. 1. 7 8
2.1 Place a jack under the rear of the engine,
and raise the jack until it’s braced against 9
the engine. 10
2.4 Remove the two hexbolts that hold the 1. Hexbolt, 3/4-10 x 4.5 Inch, Grade 8
2. Washer
ends of the isolator to the engine mount. 3. Engine Leg
2.5 Remove the engine mount from the frame 4. Hexbolt, 5/16-18 x 1 Inch, Grade 8
rail. For instructions, refer to Subject 100. 5. Washer
Remove and discard the isolator. 6. Upper Isolator
7. Rear Engine Mount
3. Inspect the new engine mount rubber isolators 8. Nut, 5/16-18
for wear or damage and replace them if neces- 9. Hexbolt, 5/8-11 x 2.5 Inch, Grade 8
sary. 10. Washer
11. Lower Isolator
12. Nut, 3/4-10
CAUTION 13. Nut, 5/8-11
Do not lubricate the new components with oil, Fig. 1, Rear Engine Mount Assembly (typical)
grease, or silicone lubricants; they will deterio-
rate the rubber isolators. lator must be towards the engine. For instruc-
tions, refer to Subject 100.
4. Install the new isolator in the engine mount, and
install the engine mount on the frame rail. In or- Secure the isolator to the mount with two hex-
der for the isolator holes to align with the holes bolts and locknuts, tighten the locknuts 14 to 18
in the engine mount, the painted side of the iso- lbf·ft (19 to 24 N·m).
WARNING
The jack used to lower the engine must be ca-
pable of safely lifting and supporting two metric
tons. Once the engine is removed from the en-
gine stands, do not get under the engine until it
is securely installed on the engine mount. An un-
secured engine may fall, causing personal injury
or death, and component damage.
5. Secure the engine to the engine mount.
5.1 If not in place, set a jack under the rear
of the engine and raise the jack until it is
braced against the engine.
5.2 Lift the engine slightly to remove the en-
gine stands. Remove the stands, and
carefully lower the engine onto the engine
mount.
5.3 Install the bolt in the right rear engine
mount, and secure it with the nut and
hardened washer. Tighten the nut 213 to
269 lbf·ft (289 to 365 N·m).
6. Repeat this procedure for the other rear engine
mount.
7. Remove the jack from under the engine, and re-
move the chocks from the tires.
Replacement
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and 1
drain the air brake system.
1
2
WARNING
2
The lifting device and chain used to lift the en-
gine must be capable of safely lifting and sup-
porting two metric tons. Once the engine mount
is disconnected, do not get under the engine un- 3
til it is securely supported on engine stands. An
unsecured engine may fall, causing personal in-
jury or death, and component damage.
2. Disconnect the engine from the front engine
mount. See Fig. 1. 4
2.1 Attach a chain to the front engine lifting
hook(s), and position a lifting device to lift
the engine. Attach the chain to the lifting
device, and raise the chain to remove any
slack.
2.2 Remove the bolt(s) from the front engine
mount. Save the fasteners, tube(s), and
snubber(s). Discard the rubber isolator
cushions.
NOTE: In order to raise the front of the en- 5
gine, you may have to loosen the bolts that 2
run through the rear engine mounts. 6 2
6
2.3 Lift the engine slightly to take its weight 03/20/95 f220052
off the front engine mount. Place engine 1. Hexbolt, 3/4-10 x 4 Inch, Grade 8
stands under the engine to keep it off the 2. Washer
engine mount. 3. Front Engine Support Bracket
4. Upper Isolator
3. Inspect the new front engine mount rubber isola- 5. Lower Isolator
tors for wear or damage and replace them if nec- 6. Nut, 3/4-10
essary.
Fig. 1, Front Engine Mount Assembly (typical)
CAUTION
WARNING
Do not lubricate the new components with oil,
grease, or silicone lubricants; they will deterio- The lifting device and chain used to lower the
rate the rubber isolators. engine must be capable of safely lifting and sup-
porting two metric tons. Once the engine is re-
4. Install the upper isolator(s) in the engine mount. moved from the engine stands, do not get under
the engine until it is securely installed on the en-
gine mount. An unsecured engine may fall, caus-
ing personal injury or death, and component
damage.
Removal DANGER
NOTE: The rear engine mounts for EPA07 en- Aftertreatment Device (ATD) internal tempera-
gines are designed to last for the life of the ve- tures can remain hot enough to cause personal
hicle, and should not normally need replacing. injury, or ignite combustible materials, for hours
The isolators are bonded to the brackets and after the engine has been shut down.
cannot be replaced separately. To avoid potentially serious burns or material
If the rear engine mounts need replacing due to damage:
damage, or if you are removing and installing • Let the ATD cool before handling it; be espe-
the engine, use this procedure. cially careful when opening it to expose the
DPF.
In the past, substituting softer isolators from the
MBE4000 engine was a way to sometimes rem- • Wear appropriate protective gear.
edy engine vibration problems with other en- • Be careful not to place the ATD where flam-
gines. This will not work with the EPA07 en- mable gases or other combustible materials
gines, because all the engine isolators now may come into contact with hot interior parts.
have the same durometer hardness. 13. Make sure the aftertreatment device (ATD) is
1. Shut down the engine, set the parking brake, cool, then remove it from the vehicle.
and chock the tires.
2. Drain the air tanks. CAUTION
3. Disconnect all the cables from the batteries. The ATD assembly weighs from 125 to 150
Cover them, using dry rags and tie straps. pounds (57 to 68 kg) and must be protected from
impact or sharp jolts. Dropping the ATD, or sub-
4. Remove the battery mega-fuse block from the
jecting it to jarring impact can crack the diesel
left-side frame rail, underneath the cab. The
particulate filter (DPF) inside, which is built on a
mounting nuts are inboard of the frame rail.
ceramic substrate. If that happens, the DPF is
5. Open the hood. ruined and must be replaced.
6. If present, remove the two tow hooks from the A secure support is necessary to remove and in-
right frame rail. stall the ATD safely. The ATD must be held se-
curely to protect it from falling, or hitting hard
7. Remove the rain tray.
against something else.
7.1 Mark, then remove the wiper arms. The horizontal ATD lifting device (TLZ00785) is
7.2 Disconnect any hoses or drains from the designed for the job on a horizontal ATD. Vertical
bottom of the rain tray. ATDs require a shop hoist secured to the lifting
ears on top.
7.3 Remove the fasteners that hold the rain
tray to the frontwall. 13.1 Put a transmission jack (or equivalent)
under the ATD, and strap the ATD to the
7.4 Remove the rain tray from the vehicle. jack.
8. Remove the right and left quarter fenders and 13.2 Disconnect the five sensors from the ATD.
the inner splash shields.
9. Remove the air intake canister assembly. WARNING
10. Remove the mounting bracket for the air intake
Wear adequate eye protection, such as safety
canister.
goggles or a face shield, when working with the
11. Remove the turbocharger heat shield. ATD mounting bands. The mounting bands are
12. Disconnect the air lines from the primary air tank,
then remove the tank from the vehicle.
5
6
2
2 2
7
4
3
2
06/26/2006 f012134
NOTE: The engine mount is not visible in this view.
1. Cab Mounting Bracket
2. Front Spring-Shackle Hanger
3. Frame Rail
A D
B E
C F
11/21/94 f150010a
A. Glazing C. Streaked Sidewalls E. Uneven Ribs
B. Separating Layers D. Tensile Break F. Cracks
Fig. 1, Drive Belt Problems
NOTE: For an installed belt, gently twist the 1.5 On poly-V belts, check for uneven ribs.
belt about 90 degrees so you can see the Foreign objects in the pulley will erode the
sidewalls and bottom. undercord ribs, causing the belt to lose its
gripping power.
1.1 Inspect for glazing (shiny sidewalls). Glaz-
ing is caused by friction created when a 1.6 Inspect for cracks. Small, irregular cracks
loose belt slips in the pulleys. It can also are usually signs of an old belt.
be caused by oil or grease on the pulleys. Replace the belt if any of the above condi-
1.2 Inspect for separating layers. Oil, grease, tions are found. Replace both belts of a
or belt dressings can cause the belt to fall set, at the same time. Matched belts must
apart in layers. If engine parts are leaking, be from the same manufacturer.
repair the oil leaks. Do not use belt dress- 2. Check all pulley bearings for roughness. Replace
ings on any belt. the bearings if they are rough.
1.3 Check for jagged or streaked sidewalls. 3. Inspect all pulleys for foreign objects, oil, or
These are the result of a foreign object grease in the grooves. Use a nonflammable
(such as sand or small gravel) in the pul-
ley, or a rough pulley wall surface.
06/23/94 f150012a
2 A. Side View of Misaligned Pulleys.
Fig. 3, Checking for Misaligned Pulleys
06/23/94 f150011a
1. Groove in Pulley Wall
2. Small Straightedge
Fig. 2, Checking for Pulley Wear
1. Remove the fan/alternator belt. NOTE: The Caterpillar belt tensioner automati-
cally adjusts the fan-and-alternator belt to the
1.1 Remove the belt from the refrigerant com- correct tension.
pressor pulley and let the belt rest on the
fan hub. For instructions, see "Refrigerant If the belt slips, repair or replace the tensioner.
Compressor Belt" in this subject. For instructions, refer to the Caterpillar C-10
1.2 Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt
Truck Engine Service Manual.
tensioner and rotate the tensioner down
and off the belt. Refrigerant Compressor Belt
1.3 Holding the belt tensioner down, remove NOTE: See Fig. 1 for this procedure.
the belt from the alternator pulley.
1. Remove the refrigerant compressor belt.
1.4 Slowly release the belt tensioner, and re-
move the breaker bar. 1.1 Loosen the refrigerant compressor jam
nut, back off the adjusting nut, and loosen
1.5 Lower the belt, and take it off the vibration the compressor mounting bolts. Move the
damper. Raise the belt, and take it off over compressor towards the fan pulley until
the fan. Remove the belt from the engine the belt can be removed from the com-
compartment. pressor.
2. Install the fan/alternator belt. 1.2 Remove the compressor belt from the fan
2.1 Inspect the pulleys and used belts (even if pulley. If necessary, remove the fan from
installing new belts). For instructions, see the fan pulley. For instructions, see Sec-
Subject 100 in this section. tion 20.01 of this manual.
2.2 If the fan or fan hub was removed to re- 2. Install the refrigerant compressor belt.
move the compressor belt, install the fan 2.1 Inspect the pulleys and used belts, even if
or fan hub with the compressor belt in the installing new belts. For instructions, see
fan pulley groove. Do not attach the com- Subject 100 in this section.
pressor belt to the compressor at this
time. 2.2 Install the belt around the fan and the
compressor pulleys.
2.3 Loop the fan/alternator belt around the fan
and align it in the rear channel of the fan If the fan was removed, install it according
pulley. to the instructions in Section 20.01 of this
manual.
2.4 Loop the belt down and around the vibra-
tion damper pulley. 2.3 While keeping the belt seated in the pulley
grooves, move the compressor away from
2.5 Install the refrigerant compressor belt on the fan pulley to increase belt tension.
the compressor. Refer to the refrigerant Use your thumb to apply about 25 lb (11
compressor belt installation instructions in kg) of force at the center of the longest
this subject. belt free-span to check the tension. When
2.6 Insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar in the belt belt deflection is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13
tensioner, and rotate the tensioner down to 19 mm), stop, and adjust the belt ten-
while installing the belt on the alternator sion.
pulley. 3. Adjust the belt tension.
6
3 4 5
6
2
06/07/95 f010976
3.1 Install a belt tension gauge at the center check the belt tension. All new belts will
of the belt’s longest free-span. lose tension after 20 minutes of operation.
IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten the belts; If the compressor belt tension is not 100
too much tension shortens belt and bearing lb (45 kg), adjust the tension to 100 lb (45
life. kg).
3.2 Turn the adjusting nut to adjust the ten-
sion to a reading of 100 lb (45 kg).
Tighten the jam nut 155 lbf·ft (210 N·m).
Tighten the compressor pivot bolts 70 lbf·ft
(95 N·m).
Check the belt tension and adjust it if
needed.
3.3 If any new belts were installed, operate
the engine for about 20 minutes, then
Engine Component Belt Tension, New Belt Belt Tension, Used Belt
lbs (kg) lbs (kg)
3176 Refrigerant Compressor 80 to 100 (36 to 45) 80 to 100 (36 to 45)
Alternator and Refrigerant Compressor 115 to 125 (52 to 57) 80 to 100 (36 to 45)
3406
Fan 115 to 125 (52 to 57) 80 to 100 (36 to 45)
C-10 Refrigerant Compressor 100 (45) 100 (45)
Table 1, Drive Belt Tensions
• 1.1 grams per brake horsepower hour (g/bhp- Over time, ash collects in the ATS and needs to be
hr) of nitrogen oxides (NOx) removed through cleaning at specific intervals. For
ATS maintenance and repair information, see the
• 0.01 g/bhp-hr of particulate matter (PM) engine manufacturer’s service literature.
To meet the EPA07 requirements, most engine
manufacturers developed an aftertreatment system Service Literature Coverage
(ATS). The ATS varies according to engine and ve-
hicle configuration, but instead of a muffler, an ATS Engine service procedures in this manual are limited
has an aftertreatment device (ATD) that outwardly to components installed by Daimler Trucks North
resembles a muffler. America. See the following sections for information
Inside the ATD on Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and on EPA07-compliant parts and systems installed by
Mercedes-Benz engines, the exhaust first passes Daimler Trucks North America:
over the diesel oxidation catalyst (DOC), which uses • Section 01.04, Engine Mounts
a chemical process to break down pollutants into
less harmful components. The exhaust then passes • Section 09.02, Charge Air Cooler
through the diesel particulate filter (DPF), which traps • Section 20.01, Radiator Assembly
soot particles. See Fig. 1.
• Section 30.00, Electronic Throttle Control
Caterpillar ATDs have a DPF, but do not have a
• Section 49.01, Aftertreatment System, EPA07
DOC. Instead, CAT engines burn diesel fuel at the
regeneration head to superheat the exhaust and re- • Section 88.00, Hood
duce it to less harmful components. CAT engines Complete engine coverage including engine adjust-
also utilize Clean Gas Induction (CGI), a process in ment, preventive maintenance, and engine repair are
which some of the exhaust gas downstream of the covered in each engine manufacturer’s service litera-
DPF is recirculated into the air intake system. See ture:
Fig. 2.
• Caterpillar: www.cat.com
The DPF core in all ATDs is comprised of ceramic
channels that are blocked off at alternate ends to • Cummins: www.cummins.com
force the exhaust through the porous walls. • Detroit Diesel: www.detroitdiesel.com
As soot accumulates in the DPF, it periodically needs • Mercedes-Benz: www.detroitdiesel.com
to be converted to its basic parts: carbon dioxide,
water, and ash. The conversion takes place through Periodic inspection of the ATS is required. For in-
an event in the ATD referred to as regeneration structions, see the Columbia Maintenance Manual.
(regen). If the exhaust temperature is high enough, For driver pre- and post-trip inspection information,
the trapped soot is reduced to ash in a process see the Columbia Driver’s Manual.
called passive regen, which occurs as the vehicle is
driven normally.
Definition of Terms
Passive regen, however, cannot always keep the
DPF clean, so the ATD must also periodically un- Refer to the following terms for a better understand-
dergo active regen. During active regen, extra fuel is ing of EPA07 engines.
injected into the exhaust stream to superheat and
reduce the soot trapped in the DPF to ash. Active Ash Unburnable solids that remain after regenera-
regen happens only when the vehicle is moving tion in the ATD.
above a certain speed, as determined by the engine
manufacturer.
5
3
1
03/26/2009 9 8 f040783
1. Exhaust Gas Recirculation 4. Charge Air Cooler (CAC) 7 Aftertreatment Device (ATD)
(EGR) Cooler 5. Turbocharger 8. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)
2. EGR Valve 6. Hydrocarbon Doser 9. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC)
3. Intake Throttle Valve
Aftertreatment Device (ATD) A device that re- Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) A flow-through
moves pollutants from exhaust gas after the gas device that enhances the oxidation of hydrocarbons
leaves the combustion chamber. in the ATD on Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and
Mercedes-Benz engines.
Aftertreatment System (ATS) The entire exhaust
system from the turbocharger to the exhaust stack or Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) A component inthe
tail pipe. ATD that captures particulate matter from the ex-
haust gas, preventing discharge from the tailpipe.
Clean Gas Induction (CGI) A process whereby
small amounts of exhaust gas are drawn down- Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) A process
stream of the DPF and recirculated into the air intake whereby exhaust is recirculated into the air intake
system. CGI is used in CAT engines only. system, creating lower cylinder temperatures. EGR is
4 5
7 6
03/26/2009 f040784
1. Charge Air Cooler (CAC) 4. CGI Cooler 7 Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)
2. Dual-Stage Turbocharger 5. CGI Line 8. Regeneration Head
3. Clean Gas Induction (CGI) 6. Aftertreatment Device (ATD)
Mixing Valve
used in Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and Mercedes- Regeneration (Regen) A process that occurs inside
Benz engines only. the ATD whereby accumulated soot is superheated
and burned to ash, carbon dioxide, and water.
Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) Air pollutants composed of
nitrogen and oxygen in various forms that contribute
to the formation of smog.
Particulate Matter (PM) Soot particles formed by
incomplete combustion of fuel that contribute to at-
mospheric pollution.
General Information
An average diesel truck engine needs over 10,000
gallons (38 000 liters) of clean air for each gallon
(3.8 liters) of fuel burned. So that complete combus-
tion occurs in each engine cylinder, more clean air
than is needed is present in each cylinder. The air
intake system routes this supply of outside air
through an air cleaner, which filters out dust, dirt,
abrasive particles, and other foreign material from
the intake air, without restricting air flow.
From there, the air intake ducting routes this clean
air to the engine. The air intake ducting is made up
of a one-piece rubber hose and stainless steel hose
clamps. See Fig. 1.
1
A lock-up (manual-reset) air restriction indicator
mounts in a safety filter in the air intake ducting. See
Fig. 2. As an option, the air restriction indicator or an
air restriction (automatic-reset) gauge mounts in the
dashboard. Nylon tubing connects the remote-
mounted indicator or gauge to the safety filter in the 2
ducting.
The air restriction indicator or gauge indicates when
the air cleaner filter element needs to be replaced.
The safety filter protects the clean-side of the air in-
take system in case the air restriction indicator or
nylon tubing leaks or is damaged.
1 3
09/11/95 f090152
1. Hose Clamp
2. Air Intake Ducting
3. Turbocharger
10/24/94 f090064a
Removal
WARNING
Do not operate the engine with any component of
the air intake system removed. Doing so could
result in engine damage, and serious personal
injury can occur if the turbocharger impeller is
touched when it is rotating.
CAUTION
Do not operate the vehicle with the air filter ele-
ment or any air intake component removed. All
air intake components and connections must be
1
air- and water-tight. Dirt or dust entering the en-
gine can cause internal engine damage. Most of
the dirt and dust particles are silicates, which
fuse into abrasive glass-like particles when ex-
posed to engine combustion. These particles can
grind piston rings, pistons, and cylinder liners. 2
1 3
Installation
09/11/95 f090152
1. Install the air intake ducting. Place the ducting 1. Hose Clamp
over each connection so that it overlaps at least 2. Air Intake Ducting
1 inch (25 mm). 3. Turbocharger
2. Tighten the hose clamp at the turbocharger 70 to Fig. 1, Air Intake Ducting (Detroit Diesel Series 60
80 lbf·in (800 to 900 N·cm). Tighten the hose engine)
clamp at the air cleaner outlet 35 to 40 lbf·in
(400 to 450 N·cm). 3. Lower the hood.
4. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1
1
2
2
2
2
1
09/06/95 3 f090153
1
1. Hose Clamp 3
2. Air Intake Ducting 11/16/95 f090156
3. Turbocharger 1. Hose Clamp
Fig. 2, Air Intake Ducting (Cummins N14 engine) 2. Air Intake Ducting
3. Turbocharger
1
1
2
2
1 09/07/95
1 3 f090160
3
11/16/95 f090157 1. Hose Clamp
2. Air Intake Ducting
1. Hose Clamp 3. Turbocharger
2. Air Intake Ducting
3. Turbocharger Fig. 5, Air Intake Ducting (Caterpillar C15/C16 engine)
Fig. 4, Air Intake Ducting (Caterpillar C10/C12 engine)
Restriction of air flow through the air cleaner element 1. For vehicles equipped with a manual-reset indi-
is measured at the tap in the air cleaner outlet. cator with graduations, check the indicator with
Check the restriction indicator at the air cleaner or in the engine off to see if air restriction equals or
the cab if the vehicle is equipped with a dash- exceeds the value shown in Table 1 for maxi-
mounted restriction gauge. mum air restriction.
For vehicles equipped with a go/no-go restriction
NOTICE indicator without graduations, check the indicator
with the engine off to see if the colored bar
Use the air intake restriction gauge rather than shows through the clear window.
visual inspection to determine if servicing the air
filter element is necessary. Removal of the air
filter element can cause damage to the primary Air Cleaner Element Maximum Restriction
seal, which may allow contaminants into the en- Engine
Pre-EPA07
EPA07 Engines
gine, potentially causing engine damage. Engines
Caterpillar 25 inH2O 25 inH2O
Vehicles may be equipped with either a manual-reset
restriction indicator with graduations (Fig. 1), or a Cummins 25 inH2O 25 inH2O
go/no-go restriction indicator without graduations Detroit Diesel 20 inH2O 22 inH2O
(Fig. 2).
Mercedes-Benz 22 inH2O 22 inH2O
Table 1, Air Cleaner Element Maximum Restriction at
Full-Load and Rated rpm
04/08/2005 f090431
Element Replacement
1
NOTICE 2
NOTICE NOTICE
Do not leave any dirt on the inside of the air
Never use impact or shock (pounding with a cleaner. If dirt gets inside the filter element, it
hammer) to release the air cleaner cover. This may get into the engine and cause damage.
may distort the cover, and allow the entry of dirt
and contaminants into the sealed system, caus- 6. Check the housing and sealing surfaces for dam-
ing engine damage. age or dirt buildup that may cause sealing prob-
lems. Remove any dirt buildup.
4. Due to high gasket-loading pressures, removing
the air cleaner cover may be difficult. After re- 7. Wipe the inside of the air cleaner housing with a
moving the capnuts, gently pry around the out- clean damp cloth.
side of the cover to remove it from the air 8. Inspect a new filter element for damaged gaskets
cleaner housing. and dented metal parts. If the gaskets are not
smooth and flat, or are damaged to the extent
NOTICE that dust might bypass them, discard the ele-
ment.
Do not clean or reuse air filter elements. Cleaning
and reusing the elements increases the chances Place a bright light inside the new element, and
of dirt entering the engine. Always replace with a turn the element while looking through it from the
new one. outside. The light will reveal any hole or rupture.
Holes in the element will allow dust to enter the
5. Remove the air cleaner filter element. Removal engine. Discard the element if it is damaged.
may be difficult because the inboard element-
gasket can stick to the cleaner housing. Push up 9. Install the new filter element.
10. Install the air cleaner cover, and attach the cap-
nuts. Tighten the capnuts 95 lbf·in (1080 N·cm)
evenly in a cross pattern to prevent distortion of
the cover.
11. Check all connections for tightness.
12. Lower the hood.
13. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and tilt Fig. 1, Air Cleaner Assembly Installation
the hood.
Install the two sets of locknuts and washers on
2. Examine the hood-to-cleaner-housing seal. If the the air cleaner mounting studs at the lower
seal is in serviceable condition, remove the hose mounting bracket. If a socket and long extension
clamp and seal for installation on the new air- are used, removal of the turbocharger heat
cleaner housing. See Fig. 1. shield is not necessary.
3. Loosen the hose clamp that attaches the flexible
Tighten all four locknuts 26 lbf·ft (35 N·m).
duct to the air cleaner outlet port. Pull the flexible
duct off the outlet port. 9. Remove the cover from the flexible duct. Attach
the duct to the air cleaner outlet port. The hose
4. Using a socket and a long extension, remove the
must be installed all the way onto the port.
two sets of locknuts, washers, and spacers from
the air cleaner mounting studs extending from Secure the connection with the hose clamp.
the lower mounting bracket, above the turbo- Tighten the hose clamp 35 to 40 lbf·in (400 to
charger heat shield. 450 N·cm).
5. Remove the two sets of locknuts and washers
from the air cleaner mounting studs at the upper NOTICE
mounting bracket.
Do not clean or reuse air filter elements. Cleaning
6. Work the air cleaner housing off the four mount- and reusing the elements increases the chances
ing studs. of dirt entering the engine. Always replace with a
7. Install the new air cleaner housing on the mount- new one.
ing studs. 10. Inspect a new filter element for damaged gaskets
8. Install the two sets of locknuts and washers on and dented metal parts. If the gaskets are not
the air cleaner mounting studs at the upper smooth and flat, or are damaged to the extent
mounting bracket. that dust might bypass them, discard the ele-
ment.
1
2
06/30/98 f090275
1. Air Cleaner 2. Capnut
Assembly
General Information
The charge air cooler (CAC) is attached to the front
of the radiator and is similar to a radiator. See Fig. 1. 3
Outside ambient air passing through the CAC core
cools the engine’s intake air charge. The air charge 2
leaving the turbocharger is hot compressed air, about
275 to 325°F (135 to 162°C), depending on the am-
bient temperature. The CAC reduces the air charge 1
temperature to about 110°F (43°C), with a 77°F
(25°C) ambient temperature, before the air charge
enters the engine intake manifold. This temperature
decrease lowers exhaust emissions, improves fuel
economy, and increases horsepower.
12/16/96 f090169
1 1. Engine 3. Elbow
2. Nozzle
2
Fig. 2, Air Intake Elbow with Ether Starting Nozzle
4
6
5
08/28/95 f090149
Removal the bolts, that attach the CAC to the top of the
radiator. Hold it there after the nuts have been
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires. removed, until someone else can support the left
side of the CAC. Remove the bolts.
2. Remove the grille from the hood.
10. While someone else supports the left side of the
3. Open the hood and support its front upper edge CAC, pull both sides of the CAC far enough for-
in a position that will allow the hood straps to be ward to clear the radiator’s CAC mounting tabs
disconnected; place a support between the floor or forward studs, as equipped. With the CAC
and the front of the hood, above the grille open- held forward to clear the tabs and studs, move
ing. Use cardboard, carpet, rags, or other pad- the CAC outboard to the right, then push the
ding on top of the support to protect the hood. right side of the CAC back and inboard until the
4. Disconnect both hood straps from the top of the narrowest section of the CAC air inlet connection
radiator. is tight against the radiator end tank. Work the
CAC air outlet connection off the radiator’s left
5. Loosen the constant tension hose clamps at both end tank. Then move the CAC to the right until
ends of the convoluted hoses that attach the inlet the CAC air inlet connection clears the radiator’s
and outlet air piping to the charge air cooler right end tank.
(CAC) connections. Push the clamps and hoses
back onto the piping, until they are not touching 11. Pass the CAC out the left side of the vehicle.
the CAC connections. 12. For a CAC that is mounted on a 1350-square-
6. To allow extra slack in the A/C condenser hoses, inch radiator that has aluminum CAC baffles at-
remove the hose clamp that attaches the hoses tached to the radiator support channels, remove
near the right side of the radiator. the six Torx® fasteners that secure the baffles to
the radiator. Remove and discard the aluminum
7. While standing in the grille opening, remove the CAC baffles.
lower sets of fasteners that attach the side air-
recirculation baffles to the CAC. Remove the 13. If a new CAC is being installed, remove the side
plastic panel retainers and fender washers that air-recirculation baffles from the old CAC.
attach both of the side air-recirculation baffles to
the lower air-recirculation baffle. See Fig. 1. Installation
8. Place shop towels or rags on top of the right-side
tire. Remove the fasteners that attach the con- 1. With the hood supported at its full-open position,
denser to the CAC; then, with the A/C hoses still and one person standing inside the grille open-
connected, swing the condenser around, and ing, pass the CAC in from the left side of the ve-
carefully lay it on top of the padding on the right- hicle.
side tire. 2. With someone supporting the left side of the
9. For a CAC that is mounted on a 1200-square- CAC, move the CAC outboard to the right, then
inch (see Fig. 1) or 1350-square-inch radiator, push the right side of the CAC back and inboard
remove the two bolts and washers that attach until the narrowest section of the CAC air inlet
the CAC to the right side of the radiator. While connection is tight against the radiator end tank.
pressing the CAC rearward, remove the two nuts Work the CAC air outlet connection onto the ra-
and washers that secure the CAC on the forward diator’s left end tank.
studs at the left side of the radiator. Hold it there 3. Pull both sides of the CAC far enough forward to
after the fasteners have been removed, until clear the radiator’s CAC mounting tabs or for-
someone else can support the left side of the ward studs, as equipped. Then push the CAC
CAC. Remove the bolts. mounting tabs onto the 1200-square-inch or
For a CAC that is mounted on a 1000-square- 1350-square-inch radiator’s forward studs (see
inch radiator (see Fig. 2), remove the two sets of Fig. 1), or push the CAC mounting tabs between
fasteners that attach the CAC to the bottom of the mounting tabs of the 1000-square-inch radia-
the radiator; then, while pressing the CAC rear- tor (see Fig. 2).
ward, remove the two nuts and washers, but not
19
17
16
13
18
16 14
16 17
3
11
4 17
10 20
5 20
16
1 3 15
3 12
2
9
6 14
1
7
3
1 9 12
6
1 8
09/12/95 f500266
NOTE: Aluminum CAC baffles are not shown.
1. A/C Condenser Mounting Fasteners 11. 1200-Square-Inch Radiator
2. A/C Condenser 12. Radiator Forward Stud
3. Air-Recirculation Baffle Mounting Fasteners 13. CAC Mounting Bolt and Washer
4. Right-Side Air-Recirculation Baffle 14. Convoluted Hose
5. Upper Air-Recirculation Baffle 15. CAC Outlet Air Piping
6. Air-Recirculation-Baffle Plastic Panel Retainer and 16. Radiator Brace-Rod Fasteners
Fender Washer 17. Radiator Brace Rod
7. Left-Side Air-Recirculation Baffle 18. CAC Inlet Air Piping
8. Lower Air-Recirculation Baffle 19. Cab Frontwall
9. CAC Mounting Nut and Washer 20. Frame Rail
10. CAC
4. Install the fasteners that attach the CAC to the 5. If the side air-recirculation baffles were removed,
radiator. Tighten all CAC mounting fasteners 28 or a new CAC is being installed, attach both of
lbf·ft (38 N·m). the side air-recirculation baffles to the center
holes of the CAC.
08/29/95 f500267
A. Typical, 4 places
1. 3/8–16 Hexbolt
2. Hardened Washer
3. CAC Mounting Tab of Radiator
4. Mounting Tab of CAC
5. Prevailing Torque Locknut
Removal 11. While someone else supports the left side of the
CAC, slightly raise the right side of the CAC. See
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires. Fig. 1. Then, with the left side held close to the
radiator, pull the right side away from the cooling
2. If the vehicle has a 37-tube charge air cooler package frame. See Fig. 2.
(CAC), do the following.
2.1 Remove the grille from the hood.
2.2 Tilt and support the hood so that the hood
straps can be be disconnected. The sup-
port system must be adjustable (while
loaded with the weight of the hood) and
very reliable to ensure the hood is pro-
tected from damage.
2.3 Disconnect both hood straps from the top
of the radiator.
3. If the vehicle has a 47-tube CAC, do the follow-
ing.
3.1 Remove the bumper. For instructions, see
Group 31.
04/19/2007 f090446
3.2 Remove the hood. For instructions, see
Group 88. Fig. 1, 47-Tube CAC Tilted for Removal, Front View
3.3 Remove the front closing crossmember.
4. Loosen the hose clamps at both ends of the
Installation
hoses that attach the inlet and outlet air piping to
1. With someone supporting the left side of the
the CAC, then push the clamps and hoses back
CAC, hook the left end tube on the cooling pack-
onto the air piping.
age, then adjust the angle of the CAC to allow
5. Allow extra slack in the A/C condenser hoses by the right end tube to slip past the cooling pack-
removing the hose support clamp that attaches age frame.
the hoses near the right side of the radiator.
NOTE: Installing the CAC may be more difficult
6. Place shop towels or rags on top of the right-side than removing it, and the fit may be tight. Be
tire as padding for the condenser. Remove the sure nothing hinders the fit between the CAC
fasteners that attach the condenser to the CAC, and the cooling package frame.
then, with the A/C hoses still connected, swing
the condenser around, and carefully lay it on top 2. Install the fasteners that attach the CAC to the
of the padding on the right-side tire. radiator. Tighten all CAC mounting fasteners 28
lbf·ft (38 N·m).
7. Remove the side air-recirculation baffles from the
CAC. 3. Install the overflow bottle on the cooling package
and tighten the radiator-mounting bolts and the
8. Remove the bolts that hold the overflow bottle to cooling package frame-mounting bolts 18 to 24
the cooling package so that the bottle can move. lbf·ft (25 to 33 N·m).
The coolant does not need to be drained.
4. Install the side air-recirculation baffles on the
9. Loosen the two upper bolts that hold the CAC to CAC, and tighten the fasteners 96 lbf·in (1080
the cooling package side rails and completely N·cm).
remove the two lower bolts.
5. Swing the A/C condenser around, and install it
10. Support the CAC, then remove the two upper on the front of the CAC. Tighten all condenser
bolts.
04/19/2007 f090447
12 11
10
2
1 1 3
3 3
3 4
4 3
3 6
5
5 6
9
8
02/25/98 f090277
1. Safety Chain 5. Thumbscrew 9. CAC Air Outlet
2. Test Plug 6. Safety Ring 10. Test Plug with Adapter
3. Constant Tension Hose Clamp 7. CAC Air Inlet 11. Test Valve/Gauge Assembly
4. Convoluted Hose 8. Radiator 12. Air Chuck
denly release debris at high speed, possibly re- 3.3 When testing is completed, reduce the
sulting in eye injury or other serious personal pressure on the pressure regulator valve
injury. to bleed air from the CAC.
3.1 Open the test valve, then slowly open the 4. Remove the test equipment (and the additional
pressure regulator valve and allow the constant tension hose clamps) from the convo-
CAC to gradually fill with air to the start luted hoses.
pressure. See Table 1. 5. Pull the convoluted hoses and constant tension
3.2 Close the test valve, and watch the gauge hose clamps rearward until the hoses cover
for 15 seconds. If there is more than the about 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) of the CAC air inlet
specified drop in the CAC pressure in 15 and air outlet piping.
seconds, replace the CAC. See Table 1. 6. Turn the clamps so their tightening screws are
IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to repair the under the hoses or facing inboard. Tighten the
CAC. screws 45 lbf·in (500 N·cm).
Flushing
If the charge air cooler (CAC) is suspected of being
contaminated, flush the CAC.
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
2. Remove the CAC. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100 for pre-EPA07 engines, or Subject 110
for EPA07 engines.
3. Set the CAC in a horizontal position with the inlet
and outlet ports facing up.
IMPORTANT: Use only naphtha or mineral spir-
its to clean the charge air cooler. Do not use
caustic solutions such as those that are com-
monly used in radiator shops. Do not use steam
or high-temperature cleaning operations. Caus-
tic solutions, steam, and high-temperature
cleaning operations will damage the RTV that
seals the charge air cooler tubes to the head-
ers, which may result in leaking.
4. Pour a filtered naphtha or mineral spirits solution
into the CAC until it is 40 percent full.
5. Cap the inlet and outlet ports on the CAC.
6. Rock the CAC back and forth so that the solvent
travels from one tank, through the tubes, to the
other tank and back. Repeat this process ten
times.
NOTE: Do not leave the solvent in the CAC for
more than 10 minutes.
7. Remove the caps from the inlet and outlet ports.
8. Drain the CAC and properly dispose of the sol-
vent.
9. Leave the caps off and allow the residual solvent
to evaporate.
10. Install the CAC. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100 for pre-EPA07 engines, or Subject 110
for EPA07 engines.
Restriction Test
After flushing the charge air cooler (CAC) because of
turbocharger or engine damage, test the pressure
drop across the CAC and air piping.
1. Remove the pipe plug (if equipped) from the
tapped hole in the turbocharger air outlet elbow.
Remove the pipe plug, or the nylon tube and at-
omizer for the ether start system (if equipped), or
the air line to the turbocharger air-pressure
gauge (if equipped), from the tapped hole in the
left-hand rear of the intake manifold.
Install an air pressure gauge in each tapped
hole.
2. Operate the engine at rated speed and horse-
power; there is no need to operate the engine at
its peak torque rating. While operating the en-
gine, read both air pressure gauges.
Because of the turbulence of the air at the turbo-
charger outlet, subtract 0.3 inHg (1 kPa) from the
pressure measurement taken at the turbocharger
outlet, to make it a true reading.
From that reading, subtract the reading taken at
the intake manifold. This is the pressure drop of
the CAC.
If the pressure drop is more than 4 inHg (14
kPa), flush or replace the CAC as needed.
General Information
The Tu-Flo 550 and the Tu-Flo 750 are two cylinder,
single-stage, reciprocating air compressors, which
supply compressed air to the vehicle air system. The
Tu-Flo 550 has a rated displacement of 13.2 cfm
(374 L/min) of air at 1250 rpm.
The Tu-Flo 750 has a rated displacement of 16.5 cfm
(468 L/min) of air at 1250 rpm. The compressor
draws air from the air intake pipe, compresses the
air, and delivers it to the air system supply reservoir.
The compressor runs continuously but has "loaded"
and "unloaded" modes, which are regulated by the
air governor and the compressor loading assembly.
When the governor sends an air signal to the un-
loader assembly, the unloader assembly holds the
compressor air intake valve open so that no more
compressed air is forced into the air system. As air in
the system is used, its pressure drops, and at 90 psi
(620 kPa), the air governor stops the signal to the
compressor. Without the signal, the unloader assem-
bly automatically closes the compressor air intake
valve to force more air into the system.
On vehicles with air dryers, when the system
reaches the cut-out pressure of 120 psi (825 kPa),
the air governor also sends an air signal to open the
sludge ejector in the air dryer.
Installation
IMPORTANT: Be sure the gasket surfaces are
cleaned and not damaged.
Removal 2
3
1. Apply the parking brakes, chock the tires, and tilt
the hood. 1
4
2. Remove the compressor from the vehicle, if nec-
essary. 5
6
WARNING 7
15
Wear goggles when using compressed air to 8
clean or dry parts, as permanent harm to eyes
9
could result from flying debris.
3. Remove the compressor from the vehicle. For 16
instructions, see Subject 100. 17
18
4. Remove the cylinder head from the crankcase.
See Fig. 1. 19 10
11
4.1 Scribe an alignment mark across the cyl- 12
inder head and the crankcase, for assem- 20 13
bly alignment. 14
IMPORTANT: Do not use a marking method, 21
such as chalk, that can be wiped off during
assembling.
4.2 Note positions of any attached compo-
nents, then remove the cylinder head
capscrews.
4.3 Tap the cylinder head with a soft mallet to
break the gasket seal. Remove the cylin-
der head. 01/15/96 f010594
Disassembly (See Fig. 1) 2. Remove the compressor from the vehicle. For
instructions, see Subject 100.
2 3. Place the compressor on a suitable work sur-
3 face. Remove the cylinder head from the crank-
case. For instructions, see Subject 110.
1
4 4. Remove the unloader mechanism.
4. Using solvent, thoroughly clean all metal parts 4. Test for leakage at the discharge valves by ap-
removed from the cylinder head. Using shop air, plying 100 psi (690 kPa) shop air through the
blow the dirt particles from the cavities and pas- cylinder head discharge port and apply soap so-
sages. lution to the discharge valve and seat. Leakage
in the form of soap bubbles is permissible.
5. Check that all cavities and passages are clear,
including the inlet and unloader. If there’s extreme leakage, leave the air pressure
applied and with a hardwood dowel and a ham-
6. Check that all mating surfaces are clean of old mer, tap the discharge valves off of their seats
gasket material. Remove any old material. several times. This will improve the seal between
7. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks or damage. the discharge valve and the valve seat and
should reduce leakage.
8. With the cylinder head and head gasket secured
to a flat surface or to the crankcase, apply shop If there’s still extreme leakage, replace the dis-
air pressure to one of the coolant ports with all charge valve seats.
other ports plugged. With the air pressure still applied at the dis-
9. Check for leaks by applying a soap solution to charge port of the cylinder head, check for leak-
the exterior of the body. If leakage is detected, age around the discharge valve stop on top of
replace the compressor. the cylinder head. No leakage is permitted.
5. Install the compressor cylinder head. For instruc-
Assembly (See Fig. 1) tions, see Subject 110.
6. Tighten the unloader plate capscrews 15 to 18
1. Install the unloader mechanism.
lbf·ft (20 to 25 N·m).
1.1 With the unloader pistons being prelubri-
cated from the manufacturer, install the 7. Install the compressor on the engine. For instruc-
new unloader springs, and the new un- tions, see Subject 100.
loader pistons. The unloader piston 8. Remove the chocks from the tires and lower the
O-rings are pre-installed on the unloader hood.
pistons.
1.2 Install the new unloader plate gasket and
the unloader plate.
1.3 Install the unloader plate lockwashers and
capscrews. Tighten the capscrews 15 to
18 lbf·ft (20 to 25 N·m) in a cross pattern.
2. Install the inlet valve mechanism.
2.1 Install the new inlet valve gaskets, new
inlet valve seats, new inlet valves, and
the new inlet valve springs into their
bores.
2.2 Install the new inlet valve stops and
tighten 70 to 90 lbf·ft (95 to 122 N·m).
3. Install the new discharge valve springs, new dis-
charge valves, and the new discharge valve
seats into their bores. Tighten the seats 70 to 90
lbf·ft (95 to 122 N·m). The discharge valve travel
should be 0.030 inches to 0.046 inch (0.762 mm
to 1.17 mm).
4
4
5
6
5
7 9
8
4
5
6 17
5
19
18
13
12
10 14 16
11
15
12
14
20
23
21
1 22
01/15/96 3 f010595
1. Base Gasket 9. Wrist Pin Button 17. End Cover Capscrew
2. Base Plate 10. Crankshaft 18. Wrist Pin Bushing
3. Base Plate Capscrew 11. Crankshaft Key 19. Connecting Rod
4. Compression Ring 12. Thrust Washer 20. Connecting Rod Bearing (Sets)
5. Oil Ring 13. Crankcase 21. Connecting Rod Cap
6. Expander Ring 14. Sleeve Bearing 22. Connecting Rod Bolt
7. Piston 15. End Cover Seal 23. Ball Bearing
8. Wrist Pin 16. End Cover
2
.002 (in) .050 (mm)
3 .004 .100
1
3
.000 (in) .000 (mm)
.006 .153
1
2 2
3
B
06/22/93 f010604
A. Side Clearance B. Ring End Gap With Ring in the Cylinder Bore
1. Compression Ring 3. Expander Ring
2. Oil Ring 4. End Gap
NOTE: Install the piston rings on the pistons 5.4 Install the connecting rod bearings on the
starting at the center of the piston and mov- connecting rod and connecting rod cap.
ing outward. Rotate the piston rings in their 5.5 Tighten the new connecting rod bolts
respective grooves so that the end gap is at evenly in increments of 11 to 13 lbf·ft (15
least 90 degrees from the previous ring’s to 17 N·m).
end gap.
5.6 Turn the crankshaft so that the number-
3.1 Install the compression rings in the cor- two connecting rod journal is in the down-
rect grooves, with the bevel or "pip" mark ward, center position.
(if any) toward the top of the piston.
5.7 Install the number-two connecting rod and
3.2 Install the expander rings in the oil ring piston in the same manner as described
grooves. The ends of the expander rings above.
must butt and must not overlap.
6. Before installing the cylinder head on the crank-
3.3 Install the bottom oil ring by inserting one case, ensure that the correct pistons have been
end below the expander ring in the ring used. Turn the crankshaft one complete revolu-
groove, and wind the ring into position. tion, so that each piston moves to the uppermost
Install the top oil ring in the same manner position. On the upward stroke, each piston
above the expander ring making sure the should move to the top of the crankcase. If the
gap is staggered from the bottom oil ring piston does not approach the top of the crank-
and the expander ring. case, the piston is incorrect and must be re-
placed or compressor damage could result.
4. Attach the new connecting rods to the new pis-
tons. 7. Install the base plate.
4.1 Lubricate the wrist pins and the wrist pin 7.1 Position the gasket on the crankcase. In-
bushings in the connecting rods with stall the base plate on the crankcase as
clean engine oil. marked before disassembly.
4.2 Position the connecting rods in the pis- 7.2 Tighten the six capscrews 15 to 18 lbf·ft
tons and press in the wrist pins. Secure (20 to 25 N·m) in a cross pattern.
the wrist pins by installing the wrist pin
buttons in the ends of the wrist pins. 8. Install the cylinder head on the crankcase. For
instructions, see Subject 110.
5. Install the new pistons and new connecting rods.
9. Install the compressor on the engine. For instruc-
5.1 Apply clean engine oil to both pistons, the tions, see Subject 100.
piston rings, the wrist pins, the connecting
rod caps and the new connecting rod 10. Operate the engine and check for leaks.
bearings. 11. Remove the chocks from the tires and lower the
5.2 Turn the crankshaft so that the number- hood.
one rod journal (the one nearest the drive
end) is down and centered.
5.3 Using a piston ring compressor, insert the
number-one connecting rod and piston
through the top of the number-one cylin-
der bore.
NOTE: The connecting rods and connecting
rod caps are matched sets, therefore the
caps must not be switched or rotated end for
end.
Compressor Specifications
Description inches (mm)
Discharge Valve Travel (minimum/maximum) 0.030/0.046 (0.762/1.168)
Fit Between Crankcase Bore and Ball-Type Main Bearing (minimum/
0.0003/0.0023 (0.008/0.058)
maximum)
Clearance for Crankshaft Main Journals to I.D.. of Sleeve-Type Main
0.005 (0.13)
Bearing (maximum )
Crankshaft Main Journal Standard Diameter 1.1242 to 1.1250 (28.555 to 28.575)
Clearance Between Crankshaft Rod Journals and Connecting Rod
0.0003/0.0021 (0.008/0.053)
Bearing (minimum/maximum)
Crankshaft Rod Journal Standard Diameter * 1.1242 to 1.1250 (28.555 to 28.575)
Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round (maximum) 0.0005 (0.013)
Cylinder Bore Taper (maximum) 0.0005 (0.013)
Clearance Between Cylinder Bore and Cast Iron Piston (minimum/
0.002/0.004 (0.050 /0.101)
maximum) †
Clearance Between Wrist Pins and Connecting Rod Bushings (maximum) 0.0007 (0.0178)
Compression Ring Groove Clearance 0.002 to 0.004 (0.050 to 0.101)
Oil and Expander Ring Groove Clearance 0.00 to 0.006 (0.00 to 0.152)
Compression Ring Gap (installed in cylinder) 0.002 to 0.013 (0.050 to 0.330)
Oil and Expander Ring Gap (installed in cylinder) 0.010 to 0.040 (0.254 to 1.016)
* For compressors having reground crankshafts, undersize connecting rod bearing inserts are available in 0.010 inch (0.254 mm), 0.020 inch (0.508 mm), and
0.030 inch (0.762 mm).
† Oversized pistons and piston rings are available in 0.010 inch (0.254 mm), 0.020 inch (0.508 mm), and 0.030 inch (0.762 mm).
General Information 5 6
4
The DuraFlo™ 596 air compressor is a two-cylinder
reciprocating compressor with a rated displacement
of 27 cubic feet per minute. The compressor consists
of a water-cooled cylinder head and valve body as- 3
sembly and an air-cooled integral crankcase and cyl-
inder block. See Fig. 1. The cylinder head is an alu- 2
minum casting that contains the required air and 1
water ports as well as inlet check valves for each
cylinder. The valve body assembly consists of steel 7
upper and lower halves, each of which incorporates
various valve openings and channels for conducting
air and engine coolant in to and out of the cylinder
head. The discharge valves for each cylinder are part
of the valve body assembly.
8
The DuraFlo 596 compressor incorporates an un-
loader system that features and energy saving sys- 09/06/2001 f130109a
tem (ESS) which reduces compressor power con- 1. Crankcase
sumption by approximately 80 percent in the 2. Valve Body Assembly
unloaded mode. The ESS also reduces compressor 3. Cylinder Head
oil consumption (oil passing) when the compressor is 4. Water Inlet Port
in the unloaded mode. 5. Discharge Safety Valve
6. Water Outlet Port
7. Rear Cover Oil Port
Operation 8. Crankcase Bottom Cover
4
1 5
06/11/2001 f130111
NOTE: The cylinder head connection ports are identified
with the following numbers:
• Atmospheric Air In: 0
• Compressed Air Out: 2
• Coolant In: 91
• Coolant Out: 92
1. Coolant In or Out (One of the two ports is plugged.)
2. Inlet Port
3. Discharge Port
4. Coolant In or Out
5. Discharge Safety Valve
2 3 C 4
D
S S D
C
D
S
06/08/2001 1 f130110
1. DuraFlo 596 Compressor
2. Air Dryer
3. Synchro Valve
4. Governor
5. Supply Reservoir
• Horsepower required at 1800 rpm and 120 psi: • Minimum oil pressure required at maximum
loaded 7.6, unloaded 1.1 governed engine speed: 15 psi
• Minimum governor cutout pressure: 130 psi • Length: 10.9 inches (28 centimeters)
• Maximum inlet air temperature: 250°F (121°C) • Height: 13.3 inches (34 centimeters)
General Description stops or starts based on the cut-in and cut-out pres-
sure settings of the governor.
The function of the Bendix air compressors is to pro- The cylinder head assembly is made up of the cylin-
vide and maintain air under pressure to operate de- der head, cooling plate, and a valve plate assembly.
vices in the air brake system. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. The cylinder head contains the air and coolant ports
The Bendix BA-921 and 360cc air compressors are as well as an unloader piston. The cooling plate is
both single-cylinder reciprocating compressors with a located between the cylinder head and valve plate
rated displacement of 15.8 cubic feet per minute assemblies, and assists in cooling the cylinder head
(cfm) at 1250 rpm. The Bendix BA-922 compressor assembly. The valve plate assembly, consisting of
is very similar to the BA-921 compressor, but has brazed steel plates, has several valve openings and
two cylinders and a rated displacement of 31.6 cfm channels for conducting air and engine coolant into
at 1250 rpm. and out of the cylinder head. The compressor is
7 8
6 9
5
4
3 10
2 12
11
13
14
06/28/2007 f130135
1. Oil Supply Bore 6. Air Supply Port 11. Freeze Plug
2. Crankcase 7. Discharge Safety Valve 12. Governor Connection Port
3. Valve Plate Assembly 8. Unloader Valve Cover 13. Coolant Return Port
4. Cooling Plate 9. Discharge Port 14. Crankcase Cover
5. Cylinder Head 10. Coolant Supply Port
The air governor operates in conjunction with the air cooled by air flowing through the engine compart-
compressor to maintain the air pressure in the air ment as it passes the compressor’s cooling fins, and
system between a maximum (cut-out) and minimum by the flow of engine coolant through the cylinder
(cut-in) pressure. The air compressor turns continu- head. The vehicle’s engine provides a continuous
ously while the engine is on, but actual compression supply of oil to lubricate the compressor.
of air is controlled by the governor, which actuates
Bendix air compressors are typically equipped with a
the air compressor unloading mechanism. Unloading
safety valve in the cylinder head safety valve port,
6
7
5
11
10
9
4
3
2 8
1
12
8
02/23/2010 f130143
1. Crankcase 5. Coolant Supply Port 9. Valve Plate Assembly
2. Coolant Return Port 6. Air Supply Port 10. Cooling Plate
3. Pressure Relief Valve 7. Discharge Port 11. Cylinder Head
4. Governor Connection Port 8. Mounting Fastener Holes 12. Oil Bore
7 8
6 9
5
4
3 10
2 12
11
13
14
06/28/2007 f130135
1. Oil Supply Bore 6. Air Supply Port 11. Freeze Plug
2. Crankcase 7. Pressure Relief Valve 12. Governor Connection Port
3. Valve Plate Assembly 8. Unloader Valve Cover 13. Coolant Return Port
4. Cooling Plate 9. Discharge Port 14. Crankcase Cover
5. Cylinder Head 10. Coolant Supply Port
6
7
5
11
10
9
4
3
2 8
1
12
8
02/23/2010 f130143
1. Crankcase 5. Coolant Supply Port 9. Valve Plate Assembly
2. Coolant Return Port 6. Air Supply Port 10. Cooling Plate
3. Pressure Relief Valve 7. Discharge Port 11. Cylinder Head
4. Governor Connection Port 8. Mounting Fastener Holes (4 qty) 12. Oil Bore
3
A
B
03/08/2010 f130144
A. Pull securing clip up in order to disconnect coolant
lines.
B. Squeeze the two tabs on the air supply line to
disconnect it from the compressor.
1. Coolant Return Line
2. Coolant Supply Line
3. Air Supply Line
4. Air Compressor
Removal 8. Remove the three air lines from the air compres-
sor.
1. Turn off the engine, apply the parking brakes, 8.1 Remove the discharge line and the elbow
and chock the tires. fitting. Check inside the discharge line for
carbon deposits. If deposits are found,
2. Drain the air tanks.
install a new discharge line. See Fig. 2.
3. Open the hood and clean all the fittings and
8.2 Remove the unloader line. Check the fit-
hose connections on the air compressor and
tings for damage and replace if necessary.
power steering pump.
8.3 Remove the intake air line.
4. Drain the radiator coolant. For instructions, see
Section 20.01, Subject 100.
5. Remove the two capscrews that attach the 4
power steering pump to the air compressor, and
move the pump away from the compressor. See 5
Fig. 1.
3
IMPORTANT: Do not remove the power steering
6
lines. Secure the lines and the pump so that
they are out of the way.
6. Remove and discard the O-ring located between
the power steering pump and the cross plate.
7. Remove the cross plate located between the air
compressor and the power steering pump. 2
03/02/2005 f130108a
5 NOTE: The discharge air line may be located on top of
the air compressor instead of on the side.
1. Discharge Air Line 4. Intake Air Line
2 4 2. Elbow Fitting 5. Unloader Air Line
3 3. Air Compressor 6. O-Ring
1
Fig. 2, Air Compressor Air Lines
1
Inspection
2
1. If the air compressor is being replaced, attach
the fittings from the compressor to the replace-
4 ment compressor. If any O-rings and fittings are
2 damaged, install new O-rings and fittings.
03/02/99 f130045
1. Capscrew 3. End of Driveshaft
4 5 2. Locking Device 4. Air Compressor
3 Fig. 5, Locking Device Installation
5. Inspect the drive gear for worn or broken teeth, 9. Fill the cooling system. For instructions, see Sec-
spalling, and corrosion. If necessary, install a tion 20.01, Subject 100.
new drive gear. Install the drive nut and a new 10. Close the hood and remove the chocks from the
O-ring. Torque the drive nut 214 lbf·ft (290 N·m). tires.
6. Remove the air compressor from the vise.
Installation
1. Using four capscrews, attach the air compressor
to the engine. Torque the capscrews 44 lbf·ft (60
N·m).
NOTE: Be sure to use the correct capscrew at
each mounting location.
2. Install the coolant lines on the air compressor.
2.1 Install new seal rings on the coolant lines.
2.2 Install the coolant delivery line at the rear
of the air compressor. Torque the banjo
capscrew 44 lbf·ft (60 N·m).
2.3 Install the coolant return line at the front of
the air compressor. Torque the banjo cap-
screw 44 lbf·ft (60 N·m).
3. Install any brackets that were removed in order
to remove the air compressor.
4. Install the engine trim covers.
5. Install all the air fittings on top of the air com-
pressor.
6. Install the three air lines on the air compressor.
General Information When the engine starts, the starter clutch prevents
excessive overrun of the armature.
The Mitsubishi starter (MIB 970379FL), which weighs
approximately 28 pounds (12.7 kg), uses a planetary 5 6
gear reduction system. The starter attaches to the 7
flywheel housing. In the area of the output shaft, the 8
starter provides protection from dust, water, or oil 4
splash for the inner starter parts. See Fig.1, for a 3 9
circuit diagram of the Mitsubishi isolated-ground type 2
starter.
2 10
3
11
1 12
16 15 14
13
4 12/05/2001 f151054
Installation
1. Insert the starter nose housing through the
mounting hole in the flywheel housing.
2. Install the three starter mounting bolts and lock-
washers and tighten them securely.
3. Connect the wires to the starter as previously
marked, making sure that all are accounted for.
Make sure that all battery cables are routed so
as to avoid contact with sharp edges and other
chafe sites. Tighten the nuts 16 to 30 lbf·in (180
to 340 N·cm).
4. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
electric red enamel. See Table 1.
5. Connect the batteries.
6. Lower the hood to the operating position.
7. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Battery
3
IMPORTANT: Before troubleshooting the starting 2 + −
system, ensure that the batteries are fully
charged and in good condition. See Group 54
for battery safety, testing, and charging proce-
1
dures.
Wiring
Inspect the starting system wiring for damage, corro-
sion, and loose connections at the battery, the start
switch, the magnetic switch, and at the starter sole- 12/13/2001 4 f151055
noid. Make any necessary repairs. 1. Pinion
2. Starter Solenoid
Magnetic Switch 3.
4.
Battery
Starter Motor
For magnetic switch test procedures, see Sec- Fig. 1, Testing Pinion Movement
tion 54.03.
shorted or the pinion may be blocked and will not
slide. See Fig. 2 for switch circuit diagrams for
Ring Gear and Pinion starter switch coils.
If the batteries, wiring, and magnetic switch are not
faulty there may be damage to the ring gear and
starter pinion teeth. This can cause the pinion to be-
come locked by the ring gear and prevent pinion ro-
tation and thrust motion. If you suspect this problem,
remove the starter and inspect the pinion and ring
gear end faces for damage or burrs. If necessary,
replace the ring gear and the starter.
4
Starter 5
08/15/2003 f151056
CAUTION 1. Battery 5. Pull-In Winding
Do not apply voltage for more than 3 seconds or 2. Battery Terminal 6. M Terminal
3. Start Switch 7. To Motor Windings
the solenoid may be damaged.
4. Hold-In Winding
If the pinion does not move forward, replace the
starter. The pull-in winding in the solenoid may be Fig. 2, Switch Circuit Diagram (starter switch coil)
12/13/2001 4 f151059
3 A. Press in and pull out on the pinion shaft to
2 + − measure the end play distance.
1. Pinion
2. Starter Solenoid
3. Battery
1 4. Starter Motor
General Information The brush rigging has four one-piece brushes. The
commutator end cap can be removed to inspect the
brushes. The bushing lubrication is provided in each
The Delco Remy starter ( Fig. 1) is located at the
sintered bronze bushing by an oil-saturated wick. Oil
forward face of the flywheel bell housing on the left-
can be added to each wick by removing an oil reser-
hand side of the vehicle.
voir cup, which is accessible on the outside of the
NOTE: The 42–MT series starters have a drive motor.
housing that can be rotated for different mount- Under normal operating conditions, no maintenance
ing positions. On vehicles with the Detroit Diesel will be required between engine overhaul periods. At
Series 55 engine, the starter is installed on the the time of engine overhaul, replace the starter with
right-hand side. a remanufactured starter.
1
2
4 12 3
5 4
11
6
7
10 8
8 9 9
01/07/2000 f150992
1. Solenoid 5. Drive Housing 9. O-Ring
2. Return Spring and Boot 6. Bronze Bushing 10. Thermostat (450 series only)
3. Shift Mechanism 7. Positive Engagement Drive 11. End Cap
4. Oil Wick 8. Armature Bushing
G
M
B
S
2
15A
− + 15C
1 3
9 15B
14
16
10
52
AA6 4
8
7
6 5 15A
15 15K
07/16/98 f150543a
NOTE: Wire 16 connects to the alternator.
1. Battery 4. Frontwall Connector (pin E1) 7. 10-Amp Circuit Breaker
2. Cranking Motor (top view) 5. Splice Connector 8. Cab/Frontwall Power Stud
3. Magnetic Switch 6. Ignition Switch 9. Engine Power Stud
Removal Installation
Before removing the starter from the vehicle for re- 1. Insert the starter nose housing through the
pair, perform the checks in Troubleshooting, 300. mounting hole in the flywheel housing.
1. Turn off all electrical loads such as lights, igni- 2. Install the three starter mounting bolts and lock-
tion, and accessories. washers. Refer to the fastener and torque values
table in Specifications, 400.
2. Disconnect the battery negative cable(s).
3. Disconnect the electrical leads attached to the NOTE: Torque values differ according to type of
starter. Mark the terminals and wires for ease of engine installed.
installation. 3. Connect the wires to the starter as previously
NOTE: It may be difficult to gain access to the marked. Tighten the nuts 16 to 30 lbf·in (180 to
starter mounting bolts. For ease of removal, 340 N·cm).
straddle the front axle with your arms extended 4. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
around the leaf springs and use a long socket electric red enamel. See Table 1.
extension.
Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
4. Remove the mounting bolts and lockwashers
(Fig. 1) that attach the starter to the engine. Re- Protectant Material Approved Brands
move the starter. MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
the PDC
Glyptal 1201EW– Low VOC,
Red; order at
Brush-On Application
www.glyptal.com or 1-800-
GLP-1201
Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
03/23/2001 f150115a
Removal
1. Disconnect the batteries.
2. Reach in underneath the switch housing and re-
move the ignition switch from the rubber grom-
met. It is not necessary to remove the switch
housing.
3. Remove the electrical connector from the rear of
the switch.
Installation
1. Connect the electrical connector to the ignition
switch.
2. Install the ignition switch so that the flat side of
the switch points inboard, towards the steering
wheel.
3. Connect the batteries.
Troubleshooting
Problem—Starter Cranks Slowly Or Not At All
Problem—Starter Cranks Slowly Or Not
At All
Possible Cause Remedy
The batteries are undercharged. Do a load test on the batteries. See Section 54.02, Subject 140, for
instructions. Charge or replace batteries as needed.
If the batteries were discharged, check the alternator voltage and output. See
the troubleshooting subject in the appropriate alternator section in Group 15
for instructions.
The battery cables do not deliver sufficient Check the available cranking voltage. Go to "Available Cranking Voltage Test"
voltage to the starter. for instructions.
The starter solenoid circuit is broken. Check the starter solenoid circuit. Go to "Starter Solenoid Circuit Test" for
instructions. Make repairs as needed. Start the engine to verify the repair.
The control circuit is broken. Check the starter wiring. Go to "Starter Wiring Test" for instructions. Make
repairs as needed. Start the engine to verify the repair.
The magnetic switch is broken. Replace the magnetic switch. Go to Section 54.03, Subject 100, for
replacement instructions.
The starter ring gear or pinion gear is Visually check the ring and pinion gears. Go to "Ring and Pinion Gear Test"
damaged. for instructions.
The starter does not stay engaged. Go to "Cold Weather Starting Test" for instructions.
The starter is damaged. Replace the starter.
There is a mechanical problem in the
See Group 01 or the engine manufacturer’s manuals.
engine.
The drive belt is loose. Check the drive belt. See the drive belt subject in the appropriate engine
section in Group 01 for instructions. If necessary, tighten to the
manufacturer’s specifications.
Start the engine and check the alternator voltage and output. See the
troubleshooting subject in the appropriate alternator section in Group 15 for
instructions.
The drive belt is damaged or missing. Check the drive pulleys for locked bearings. Repair or replace any damaged
components. Replace the drive belt and start the engine.
Check the alternator voltage and output. See the troubleshooting subject in
the appropriate alternator section in Group 15 for instructions.
Connect voltmeter
More than 6.0 V from solenoid "S" 6.0 V or less
terminal to ground.
Engage start switch.
Symptoms continue
Remove starter. Check & repair
Visually check pinion. Milled pinion magnetic switch
circuit.
OK
OK
Repair or replace starter.
(Do not install)
Repair verified.
Milled teeth
Visually check ring gear.
OK
Replace ring gear and check
flange to flywheel dimension.
02/18/97 f040314
G
M
B
S
2
15A
− + 15C
1 3
9 15B
14
16
10
52
AA6 4
8
7
6 5 15A
15 15K
07/16/98 f150543a
NOTE: Wire 16 connects to the alternator.
1. Battery 4. Frontwall Connector (Pin E1) 7. 10-Amp Circuit Breaker
2. Cranking Motor (top view) 5. Splice Connector 8. Cab/Frontwall Power Stud
3. Magnetic Switch 6. Ignition Switch 9. Engine Power Stud
2
1
3 3
B 2
4 B
4
S
S
5
5
G
G
08/27/96 f150547
08/27/96 f150548
1. Digital Voltmeter 4. Starter Solenoid
2. Magnetic Switch 5. Cranking Motor 1. Magnetic Switch 4. Starter Solenoid
3. Carbon Pile 2. Carbon Pile 5. Cranking Motor
3. Digital Voltmeter
Fig. 5, Starter Wiring Test, First Wire Voltage Loss (V5)
Fig. 6, Starter Wiring Test, Second Wire Voltage Loss
NOTE: If desired, do a continuity check on the (V6)
circuit to be sure that it is connected to the cor-
7. Have a second person start the engine momen- 3. If the engine still does not crank properly after
tarily. replacing the starter, look for a mechanical prob-
lem in the engine. For instructions, see
8. Check the second wire voltage loss (V6).
Group 01 or the engine manufacturer’s manuals.
NOTE: Ignore the minus (–) sign.
8.1 Turn the ignition key to the START posi- Cold Weather Voltage Test
tion, then turn on the carbon pile and
again adjust it to a 100-amp load. In cold weather, the starter may fail to engage, even
though it performed well at higher temperatures. Do
8.2 Now read and record the voltage (V6) on the following test to check for cold weather voltage
the voltmeter. Turn off the carbon pile. loss in the cranking circuit.
8.3 Add the two voltages (V5 and V6) to- 1. With the ignition switch on, clamp a heavy bat-
gether to get the total wire voltage loss. If tery jumper cable between the two large studs
the total wire voltage loss adds up to 0.8 on the magnetic switch. Remove the jumper im-
volt or less, the wiring is OK. Replace the mediately to stop the engine from cranking.
magnetic switch. For instructions, see
Section 54.03, Subject 100. 2. If the engine starts with the jumper in place, do
the "Starter Wiring Test." Repair/replace the wir-
If the total wire voltage loss adds up to ing connections, terminals, and/or magnetic
more than 0.8 volt, check the wire con- switch as necessary.
nections for tightness and the terminals
for corrosion. Repair or replace as neces- 3. If the engine now starts properly, check the
sary. starter mounting bolts for tightness and do the
"Alternator Wiring Test." See the troubleshooting
9. Disconnect the carbon pile and the voltmeter. subject in the appropriate alternator section in
Reconnect the magnetic switch to the starter S Group 15 for instructions.
terminal.
4. If the engine still does not start properly, go to
10. Check all wiring and connections and repair or "Available Cranking Voltage Test."
replace as needed. For instructions on wire re-
pair, see Section 54.00, Subject 100.
G
M
B
S
2
15A
− + 15C
1 3
9 15B
14
16
10
52
AA6 4
8
7
6 5 15A
15 15K
07/16/98 f150543a
NOTE: Wire 16 connects to the alternator.
1. Battery 4. Frontwall Connector (pin E1) 7. 10-Amp Circuit Breaker
2. Cranking Motor (top view) 5. Splice Connector 8. Cab/Frontwall Power Stud
3. Magnetic Switch 6. Ignition Switch 9. Engine Power Stud
120 120B
2
1
30G
3
30
15B
15
C
5
16
11
GND 15C
A
15
6
16 B
10
GNDA
8
9
Ref. Drawing: A06−21972, Chg. Ltr. B
11/22/95 f150552
1. Transmission Temperature Gauge Sensor Harness 6. To Starter Solenoid "S" Terminal
Connector 7. To Starter Solenoid "B" Terminal
2. To Back-Up Light Switch 8. To Starter "G" Terminal
3. Frontwall Harness Connector 9. To A/C Compressor Clutch
4. To Magnetic Switch 10. To Alternator Output Terminal
5. To Battery Cable Power Terminal 11. To Alternator Ground Terminal
General Information The 35- and 36-SI are physically similar brushless
alternators, but the 36-SI is designed to provide 100-
Delco Remy SI series alternators feature internally amp output at low engine speeds, so that the engine
does not need to run fast to power auxiliary devices
mounted integrated-circuit regulators and diode recti-
fiers, placed inside the end frame of the alternator. and keep the batteries charged.
See Fig. 1 for typical sectional and end views. The 35- and 36-SI alternators may be used as direct
As vehicles are designed to use space more effi- replacements for earlier models such as the 33- and
ciently, engine compartments are more tightly 34-SI.
packed, and operating demands are more challeng- See Fig. 3 for an end view of a typical 30-series al-
ing. In response to those developments and particu- ternator, in this case a 33-SI, cut away to show the
larly the requirements of EPA07 and later vehicles, regulator.
the 24-SI, 35-SI, 36-SI and later alternators are de-
The 34-SI alternator is a specialized version of the
signed for high output in underhood temperatures up
33-SI model, with two upper adjusting lugs for re-
to 221°F (105°C).
duced susceptibility to vibration. All the field-winding
Most alternators have a cooling fan at the front end stator components, which are the current-carrying
which draws air through the housing from the back, conductors, are stationary. The regulator and diodes
exhausting out the front. The 24-SI (see Fig. 2) is a are enclosed in a sealed compartment.
brush-type alternator with dual internal fans to draw
The rotor is the only moving part in the assembly. It
cooling air in from both ends, exhausting out from
is mounted on a ball bearing at the drive end, and a
the center of the casing.
roller bearing at the rectifier end. See Fig. 1 (30-SI)
2 5
6
1 3 4
7
13
8
12 11 10 9
10/17/94 f150405a
1. Relay Terminal 8. Grease Reservoir, Drive End
2. Rectifier Bridge 9. Rotor
3. Output Terminal 10. Stator
4. Grease Reservoir, Rectifier End 11. Roller Bearing with Lip Seal
5. Stationary Field Coil (brushless construction) 12. Integrated-Circuit Regulator
6. Lip Seals 13. External Voltage Adjustment
7. Ball Bearing
2 3
1
7 6 5
04/30/96 f150569
09/28/2006 f151106
1. Roller Bearing 4. Ball Bearing
Fig. 2, 24-SI Pad Mount 2. Stationary Field Coil 5. Stator
(brushless 6. Rotor
construction) 7. Rectifier Bridge
3 3. Fan
2
1 4
Fig. 4, 33-SI Sectional View
2 3
2 3
4
1 1
10/17/94 f150403a
1. End Plate 3. Ground Screw
2. Output Terminal
1
2 3
4
09/27/2006 f151105
6
04/30/96 f150567
Mounting Configuration
There are three alternator mounting configurations
available to suit particular applications; see Fig. 8.
10/04/2006
A B C f151108
A. Quad Mount B. Hinge Mount C. Pad Mount
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, turn off all
electrical loads such as lights, ignition, and ac-
cessories, set the parking brake, and chock the
tires.
3
IMPORTANT: To be certain it is necessary to 1
remove the alternator for service, perform the
checks in Troubleshooting 300. Many tests
and repairs can be performed with the alternator
in the vehicle.
2. Turn the battery switch to the OFF position, or
disconnect the batteries. 4
3. Tilt the hood. 2
4. Disconnect the electrical leads attached to the
alternator. Mark the terminals and wires for cor-
rect installation. 1
5. Insert a 1/2-inch drive wrench in the square hole
of the belt tensioner, and relieve the tension on
the belt so that it can be removed from the alter-
nator pulley. See Fig. 1.
03/06/2000 f011536a
6. Support the alternator, and remove the four 1. Mounting Bolt 3. Belt
mounting bolts and lockwashers that attach the 2. Alternator 4. Tensioner
alternator to the engine. Remove the alternator.
Fig. 1, Typical Alternator Installation
Installation
Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
1. Place the alternator in position on its mount, and Protectant Material Approved Brands
support it while you start the mounting bolts.
MMM 1602 IVI–Spray Sealer,
2. Install the four alternator mounting bolts and Spray-On Application Red Electric Grade; order from
lockwashers. Torque the bolts 31 to 39 lbf·ft (42 the PDC
to 53 N·m). Glyptal 1201EW– Low VOC,
3. Insert a 1/2-inch drive wrench in the square hole Red; order at
Brush-On Application
of the belt tensioner, and relieve the tension on www.glyptal.com or 1-800-
GLP-1201
the belt tensioner, then install the belt on the al-
ternator pulley. See Fig. 1. Table 1, Approved Dielectric Red Enamel
4. Connect the wires to the alternator, as previously
marked. 6. Rotate the battery switch to the ON position, or
connect the batteries.
• Torque the nut for the battery cable 80 to
120 lbf·in (900 to 1350 N·cm). 7. Before returning the vehicle to operation, test the
alternator DC output voltage or if the alternator is
• Torque the nut for the ground cable 50 to
under 145 amp output, use the Delco Intelli-
60 lbf·in (560 to 680 N·cm).
Check Alternator Analyzer. For instructions, see
5. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di- Alternator Voltage Output Test in Troubleshoot-
electric red enamel. See Table 1. ing 300.
8. Close the hood.
09/10/99 f150983
1. Red Alligator Clip
2. Black Alligator Clip
3. Hand-Held Alternator Analyzer
IMPORTANT: Be sure to disconnect the batter- 2.1 Start the engine and run it at 1500 rpm for
ies or remove them from the vehicle before 3 to 5 minutes to stabilize the system be-
charging. fore proceeding to the next step.
2. Check the alternator output without a load. See 2.2 Connect the positive (+) lead of the digital
Fig. 3. voltmeter (still set on the 2-20VDC or simi-
lar scale) to the alternator (battery) termi-
nal. Connect the negative (–) lead of the
1 2 voltmeter to the alternator negative (–)
ground terminal. See Fig. 3.
2.3 If the voltmeter reads from 13.8 to 14.2
volts, record this reading (V1) and go to
the next step. If the alternator reads less
than 13.8 volts and is adjustable, try to
02/26/97 f150607 adjust the voltage regulator to 13.8 to 14.2
1. Battery volts. If unable to obtain acceptable out-
2. Digital Voltmeter put, replace the alternator.
3. Check the alternator output under load. See
Fig. 2, Setup 1: Battery Open Circuit Voltage (and Fig. 3.
alternator amperage output)
3.1 Attach a clamp-on induction ammeter
around the positive (+) wire. See Fig. 3.
1
NOTE: Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches
(15 cm) away from the alternator.
2 3.2 With the engine still running at 1500 rpm,
A
turn on the following electrical accessories
to load the alternator until the ammeter
reads 60 to 75 amps.
3
• Both front and rear heater blowers
(on HIGH)
B
• Headlights (high beams)
• Road lights
6
G • Interior lights
5
NOTE: As an alternate method of putting
load on the alternator, connect a carbon pile
4
tester and set it to 60 to 75 amps.
02/11/98 f150938 3.3 Keep the voltmeter connected as in the
previous step; positive (+) lead connected
A. Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches (15 cm) away
from the alternator. to the alternator positive (+) terminal;
negative (–) lead connected to the alterna-
1. Battery 4. Alternator tor negative (–) terminal.
2. Ammeter 5. Cranking Motor
3. Digital Voltmeter 6. Solenoid 3.4 If the voltmeter reads from 13.6 to 14.2
volts, record this reading (V2) and go to
Fig. 3, Setup 2: Alternator Output Test the next step.
If the voltmeter reads less than 13.6 volts,
replace the alternator.
4. Perform an alternator amperage output test. 5.2 If the reading at the batteries is more than
0.5 volts lower than the reading at the al-
4.1 Connect a carbon pile tester across the ternator, do the next step.
vehicle batteries as shown in Fig. 2.
6. Check charging system connections, cables and
NOTE: Figure 2 shows a voltmeter, but the terminals.
connections for the carbon pile tester are the
same. 6.1 Check all connections between the bat-
tery, starter and alternator for tightness
4.2 Attach a clamp-on induction ammeter and signs of corrosion. Tighten and clean
around the alternator output wire. See as necessary.
Fig. 3.
6.2 Check all cables for breaks or partial
NOTE: Locate the ammeter at least 6 inches breaks. Repair or replace as necessary.
(15 cm) away from the alternator. 6.3 Check each ring terminal for breakage at
4.3 Start the engine and make sure all vehicle the point where it attaches to its wire or
electrical accessories are turned off. Run it cable.
at fast speed and adjust the tester to the
alternator maximum current output.
Record this output value.
NOTE: Ensure that the alternator is turning
at maximum available rpms and keep adjust-
ing the tester dial until the ammeter reads its
highest value.
4.4 Turn off the tester and shut down the en-
gine.
4.5 If the output value recorded is less than
85 percent of the rated amperage output,
repeat the test. If the output value re-
corded is still less than 85 percent of the
rated amperage output, replace the alter-
nator.
4.6 Make sure that all test instruments are
removed and that the vehicle wiring is re-
turned to its operational state.
5. To identify other problem areas within the ve-
hicle, check the operation of the charging sys-
tem. Set up the voltmeter as shown in Fig. 2 and
Fig. 3.
NOTE: For any load at 1500 rpm or more,
battery voltage must be within 0.5 volts of
the alternator voltage.
5.1 If readings at the batteries are within 0.5
volts of the readings at the alternator, the
charging system is working correctly.
Check other areas of the vehicle to locate
the problem.
3 10
FIELD AMMETER
C
R E
A A
N S
AMMETER LOAD CONTROL E VOLTMETER
Loads specified are at 12V I
For 24V: x2 ON
7 11
130 A 160 A 4
POSITIVE OFF
EXTERNAL VOLTMETER
POWER
5 8 12
2 70 A 100 A 12 V 24 V
FIELD BATTERY SELECTOR
FIELD CIRCUIT PRESS FOR
B A FULL OUTPUT OFF 13
+ −
20 A 40 A 6 9 ALTERNATOR STARTER
NEGATIVE CAUTION: Do not operate LC for more FUSE BREAKER BATTERY SWITCH
than 5 secs. at a time
PRESS TO RESET
1
03/31/2009 f151134
A. These controls are not used when testing alternators with internal voltage regulators.
1. Motor Switch: Forward–Off– 5. Field Selector Switch 10. Voltmeter
Reverse 6. DTL Lamp 11. Power Switch
2. Load Control Switches 7. External Voltmeter Switch 12. 12–24-Volt Selector
3. Ammeter 8. Full Field Switch 13. Alternator/Battery Test Switch
4. Variable Field Control 9. Circuit Breaker (Press to Reset)
The tests in this subject require the following equip- • Standard 5/8–18 hexnut, for mounting the pul-
ment: ley on the alternator. Use a standard hexnut,
not the self-locking nut that is supplied with the
• Alternator tester with the battery charged to at
least 12.4 V (Delco Remy shown). alternator.
• Alternator to be tested.
NOTICE
• V-belt.
Repeatedly using self-locking nuts may damage
• Jumper lead to connect the BAT (+) alternator the threads on the pulley shaft.
terminal to the remote sense terminal.
12.4V
1 A
VOLTMETER
ON
2
OFF
3 POWER
2
12 V 24 V
BATTERY SELECTOR
OFF
ALTERNATOR STARTER
4 BATTERY SWITCH
01/16/2009 f580469
1. Voltmeter
2. Power Switch 1
3. Battery Voltage Selector
4. Battery Switch 01/20/2009 f580471
A. 1/4-inch (6-mm) deflection at center of run
Fig. 2, Alternator Tester Power Switches 1. V-Groove Closest to the Alternator
2. V-Groove Closest to the Motor Pulley
2. Set the battery switch to "Alternator." See Fig. 2.
Fig. 3, Belt Deflection with Alternator Mounted on
NOTICE Tester
The next step supplies battery voltage to the al- 5.2 Move the vise to align the pulleys, so that
ternator tester power and ground cables. Ensure the belt runs straight between the
that they are separated and insulated from each V-groove on the motor pulley and the
other, and that they are not touching conductive V-groove closest to the alternator.
materials. Failure to observe this precaution
5.3 Tension the V-belt with the hand wheel, so
could cause component damage.
that it deflects 1/4-inch (6 mm) under hand
3. Turn the tester power switch ON. See Fig. 2. pressure at the center of the run, then
Check the battery voltage in the voltmeter on the clamp the alternator in position.
tester. The tester battery voltage must be at least
6. Connect the electrical leads from the tester to
12.4V; if it is below 12.4V, charge or replace the
the alternator. See Fig. 4. Take care that the
tester battery as necessary. Turn the power
tester power and ground cables are separated
switch OFF.
and insulated from each other, and that they are
4. Mount the appropriate manufacturer’s pulley on not touching conductive materials.
the alternator.
6.1 Connect the red positive lead from the
5. Mount the alternator on the tester. tester to the output terminal (BAT or +) on
5.1 Run the belt from the largest V-groove of the alternator.
the bench motor drive pulley to the
1 2
4
3
02/04/2009 f151132
1. Delco Remy Positive Terminal 3. Leece-Neville Positive Terminal
2. Delco Remy Remote Sense Terminal 4. Leece-Neville Remote Sense Terminal
would be 70 amp, because it is the available set- tween free-spin and loaded is less than
ting just below 80 amp. 1.0V, the alternator is functioning properly.
5. Turn the tester power switch OFF, then discon-
NOTICE nect the electrical leads and jumper from the al-
ternator.
Do not operate the alternator under load for more
than 5 continuous seconds or damage to the al-
ternator may occur.
3. Apply the appropriate load switch for 5 seconds
then release.
4. Record the difference in voltage output between
when the alternator is free-spinning, and under
load.
• For all alternators except Delco Remy
22SI, if the voltage difference between
free-spin and loaded is more than 0.5V, the
alternator is faulty and must be replaced. If
the voltage difference between free-spin
and loaded is less than 0.5V, the alternator
is functioning properly.
• For Delco Remy 22SI, if the voltage differ-
ence between free-spin and loaded is more
than 1.0V, the alternator is faulty and must
be replaced. If the voltage difference be-
General Information The surge tank holds extra coolant, which travels
down through the fill hose to the engine as needed.
The low coolant level sensor in the surge tank warns
Freightliner Columbia uses radiators that are 1000-
the driver when coolant is running low. The surge
square-inch and 1200-square-inch front areas. Both
tank is translucent polypropylene so you can see the
sizes are high-flow, single-pass radiators with plastic
coolant level and compare it to the maximum and
end-tanks. Both are two-row radiators with 14 fins
minimum levels marked on the tank. See Fig. 2.
per inch and are cross-flow.
To prevent gas from getting trapped in the radiator or
In high-flow cooling systems, most coolant in a warm
engine, vent lines run from the highest point in the
engine is routed through the radiator. The coolant
radiator and engine to the surge tank. To prevent the
moves relatively quickly through the radiator in a
coolant from boiling, the coolant is pressurized 11 to
single pass.
12 psi.
In a typical engine and radiator system, coolant flows
To add coolant, remove the large cap on the out-
from the radiator outlet to the water pump, from the
board end of the tank. The standard, metal SAE cap
water pump through the oil cooler, then the engine
on top of the tank is used for pressure relief and
cylinder block water jacket, then the head. For typical
vacuum-break functions only. If too much pressure
engine coolant plumbing, see Fig. 1.
builds up in the coolant system, excess coolant will
If the engine is cold, the engine thermostat stays vent through the SAE cap and escape through an
closed, and water leaving the head flows back down overflow hose.
to the water pump and the oil cooler.
When the cab heater is activated, hoses carry some
If the engine is warm, the thermostat opens and of the coolant into the cab where it flows through the
coolant is forced to flow into the upper end of the heater core to warm the cab air. This coolant returns
driver-side radiator end tank. The coolant flows to the engine/radiator cooling system.
across the core, where is is cooled by ram air enter-
ing through the vehicle grille. When the coolant For more information about the radiator and surge
reaches the bottom end of the radiator passenger- tank, see Section 20.01.
side end tank, the coolant flows back out to the wa-
ter pump. For the temperature that opens the ther-
mostat on each model of engine, see Table 1.
1
2
09/28/95 f011021
NOTE: Optional heater hose shut-off valves shown here.
1. Heater Supply Hose 2. Heater Return Hose
1 2
06/08/95 f500244
General Information Because crimping holds the nylon side tanks tanks in
place, the radiators can be disassembled and as-
The main function of a cooling system is to keep the sembled.
engine at its optimum operating temperature. This The surge tank cap limits system pressure to about
results in the most efficient use of fuel and allows the 11 to 12 psi, which raises the boiling point of the
engine oil to provide a good lubricating film. coolant. If the cooling system overheats, excess
The central component of the cooling system, the coolant is released through the overflow tube.
radiator assembly, includes the surge tank (remote For more general information about the radiator and
mounted on the firewall), the radiator, and the surge surge tank, and for cooling system troubleshooting
tank pressure relief cap. See Fig. 1. procedures, refer to Section 20.00 in this workshop
The surge tank provides storage space for reserve manual.
coolant, expansion space for heated coolant, and
deaeration space. See Fig. 2. When coolant in the
radiator runs low, reserve coolant stored in the surge
tank flows from the tank, through the fill hose, to the
water pump. As the coolant heats and expands be-
yond radiator capacity, excess coolant travels back
through the fill hose from the water pump to the
surge tank. Any air trapped in the engine block or
radiator rises to the top of the engine or radiator and
escapes through the vent hoses to the surge tank.
The low coolant level sensor in the surge tank warns
the driver when coolant is running low. The surge
tank is translucent polypropylene so you can see the
coolant level and compare it to the maximum and
minimum levels marked on the tank.
Columbia vehicles use full-flow (or high-flow) radia-
tors. With full-flow radiators, the coolant flows into
the radiator at the top of the left side tank and flows
out of the radiator at the bottom of the right side
tank. Most of the engine coolant is routed through
the radiator, and it moves relatively quickly in a
single pass.
There are two sizes of two-row radiators in use: one
radiator has 1000 square inches of front area and
the other has 1200 square inches. See Fig. 3 and
Fig. 4.
The radiators use glass-filled nylon side tanks. The
edges of the radiator core header are compressed in
a "dimple wave lock" crimp (see Fig. 5) that holds
the tanks on the radiator core, and the tanks and
core are held in steel channels that mount on the
front closing crossmember. The radiator is also se-
cured by brace rods that run between the top of the
radiator and the firewall. The fins of the radiator core
are reinforced along their forward edge to resist dam-
age from road debris and pressure washing.
5
1
8
6
7
2 8
3
4 8
4
8
9 10
11
12
13
14
13 15
14
15 14
A 16
17 B
14
16
07/01/2004 17 f500246
A. Support Bracket for a 1200-Square-Inch Radiator B. Support Bracket for a 1000-Square-Inch Radiator
1. Machine Screw, 5/16-18 8. Capscrew, 1/2–13x 2 Inches, 13. Spacer (used only with 11-inch
Stainless Steel Grade 8; Washer; Nut frame rails)
2. Upper Surge Tank Bracket 9. Radiator 14. Isolator
3. Surge Tank 10. Left-hand Radiator Strut Rod, 15. Radiator Support Bracket
4. Locknut, 3/8–16; Washer Inboard 16. Washer
5. Air Cleaner Mounting Bracket 11. Left-Hand Radiator Strut Rod, 17. Nut, 5/8–11, Grade 8
6. Nut, 1/2–13, Grade 8; Washer Outboard
7. Right-Hand Radiator Strut Rod 12. Capscrew, 3/8–16, Grade 8;
Washer; Nut
1 2
06/08/95 f500244
3 3
4
4
2 2
1
1
5 5
3
4
5
03/25/93 f500170a
1. Nylon Tank 4. Sealing Gasket
2. Radiator Header 5. Radiator Core
3. Dimple Wave Lock
Crimp
Draining Filling
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and 1. Make sure the plugs are installed securely in the
tilt the hood. bottom of the radiator and the elbow of the radia-
tor outlet pipe.
WARNING 2. At the surge tank, fill the system with coolant un-
til the level of coolant shows between the mini-
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en- mum and maximum coolant level lines on the
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot surge tank. See Fig. 2. For approved coolant,
could cause severe personal injury due to scald- and the coolant capacity for your engine, refer to
ing. the vehicle maintenance manual.
2. Place a suitable container under the elbow of the 3. Run the engine for 10 minutes, and add coolant
radiator outlet pipe. The container should hold at as needed.
least 60 quarts (56.8 liters).
3. Remove the surge tank cap.
4. Remove the plugs from the lowest points of the
coolant system. This will be a plug in the radiator
side tank and a plug in the elbow of the radiator
outlet pipe. See Fig. 1.
1
06/29/95 f011008
1 2
06/08/95 f500244
Removal
1. Partially remove the radiator. Do all the steps in
Subject 130 but do not lift the radiator out of the
vehicle. Disconnect the radiator and charge air
cooler, and have someone lean the components
forward and hold them out of the way
2. Remove the fasteners that hold the fan to the fan
clutch.
3. Remove the fan from the vehicle.
Installation
1. If not already done, disconnect the radiator ac-
cording to the steps in Subject 130 and have
someone lean the components forward and hold
them out of the way
2. Position the fan on the fan clutch, and tighten the
fasteners 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
3. Install the radiator. For instructions, refer to Sub-
ject 130 in this workshop manual section.
4. Remove the chocks from the tires.
A
B
11/17/1999 f200632
Removal Installation
1. Park the vehicle and apply the parking brakes. 1. Using a lifting device secured to the radiator and
Chock the tires. charge air cooler with chains, lift the radiator to
position it in the vehicle.
2. Remove the grille. For instructions, refer to
Group 88. 2. Install the nuts on the mounting bolts at the bot-
tom of the radiator. Tighten the nuts 241 lbf·ft
3. Tilt the hood, and support it in the tilted position
(327 N·m).
with a padded table or bench. See Fig. 1.
3. Remove the lifting chains from the radiator.
4. Drain the coolant. For instructions, refer to Sub-
ject 100. 4. Attach the struts to the radiator.
5. Disconnect the hood straps. For instructions, re- Tighten the strut fasteners 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).
fer to Group 88.
5. Install the fan shroud on the radiator. For instruc-
6. If so equipped, remove the air recirculation tions, refer to Subject 120.
shields along the bottom and passenger side of
6. T-bolt type hose clamps are standard on hoses
the radiator.
with an inside diameter greater than 2 inches (51
7. Disconnect the A/C condenser mounts and move mm). They should be tightened 55 lbf·in (620
the A/C condenser aside without breaking the N·cm). The screw tip of the clamp must extend
refrigerant lines. For instructions, refer to about 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the clamp housing,
Group 83. and the Belleville washer stacks must be col-
lapsed almost flat. Use a torque wrench to install
8. Disconnect the hoses from the radiator.
these hose clamps correctly.
The coolant hoses connect using T-bolt clamps
NOTE: All hose clamp adjusters lose torque af-
(see Fig. 2), Breeze Constant-Torque clamps,
(see Fig. 3), or ABA Radial worm drive clamps ter installation, due to cold-flow of the hose ma-
(see Fig. 4). Each type and size hose clamp has terial from under the clamp. Breeze Constant
specific torque requirements. See Table 1 for Torque clamps typically show a 30 percent loss
hose clamp torque values. of torque shortly after installation; a 50 percent
loss after heat-cycling, and up to 80 percent
9. Disconnect the hoses from the charge air cooler.
loss after time and repeated heat cycles. How-
10. Remove the fan shroud, and move it back ever, when correctly installed, Breeze Constant-
against the engine. Torque clamps adjust automatically, holding
11. Attach chains and a lifting device to the hood enough torque to keep consistent sealing pres-
strap attachment bolts on the top of the radiator. sure. During vehicle operation and shutdown,
the screw tip may adjust in and out, according
12. Disconnect the struts from the radiator. to temperature and pressure changes. The
13. Remove the nuts from the radiator mounting torque may need to be adjusted for individual
bolts at the bottom of the radiator. applications.
On the 1350-square-inch radiator, remove the ABA Radial worm-drive hose clamps may lose
nuts from the radiator mounting bolts at the bot- 30 percent of their torque at the screw adjuster,
tom of the module support bracket, underneath shortly after being correctly tightened. This is
the charge air cooler. due to cold-flow of the hose material, not an
14. Using a lifting device, remove the radiator and actual loosening of the clamp. This is the way
charge air cooler from the vehicle. they are designed to work, they should not be
tightened further. To check the torque of an ABA
clamp, it must be loosened completely, then
torqued to the proper value listed in Table 1.
5
1
8
6
7
2 8
3
4 8
4
8
9 10
11
12
13
14
13 15
14
15 14
A 16
17 B
14
16
07/01/2004 17 f500246
A. Support Bracket for a 1200-Square-Inch Radiator B. Support Bracket for a 1000-Square-Inch Radiator
1. Machine Screw, 5/16-18 Stainless Steel 10. Left-Hand Radiator Strut Rod, Inboard
2. Upper Surge Tank Bracket 11. Left-Hand Radiator Strut Rod, Outboard
3. Surge Tank 12. Capscrew, 3/8–16, Grade 8; Washer; Nut
4. Locknut, 3/8–16; Washer 13. Spacer (used only with 11-inch frame rails)
5. Air Cleaner Mounting Bracket 14. Isolator
6. Nut, 1/2–13, Grade 8; Washer 15. Radiator Support Bracket
7. Right-Hand Radiator Strut Rod 16. Washer
8. Capscrew, 1/2–13 x 2 Inch, Grade 8; Washer; Nut 17. Nut, 5/8–11, Grade 8
9. Radiator
Fig. 1, Standard Radiator Installation
12/22/2003 f200590
5
1
8
6
7
2 8
3
4 8
4
8
9 10
11
12
13
14
13 15
14
15 14
A 16
17 B
14
16
07/01/2004 17 f500246
A. Support Bracket for a 1200-Square-Inch Radiator B. Support Bracket for a 1000-Square-Inch Radiator
1. Machine Screw, 5/16-18 8. Capscrew, 1/2–13x 2 Inches, 13. Spacer (used only with 11-inch
Stainless Steel Grade 8; Washer; Nut frame rails)
2. Upper Surge Tank Bracket 9. Radiator 14. Isolator
3. Surge Tank 10. Left-hand Radiator Strut Rod, 15. Radiator Support Bracket
4. Locknut, 3/8–16; Washer Inboard 16. Washer
5. Air Cleaner Mounting Bracket 11. Left-Hand Radiator Strut Rod, 17. Nut, 5/8–11, Grade 8
6. Nut, 1/2–13, Grade 8; Washer Outboard
7. Right-Hand Radiator Strut Rod 12. Capscrew, 3/8–16, Grade 8;
Washer; Nut
Fig. 1, Standard Radiator Installation
04/16/2009 f200717
1. Adaptor
04/16/2009 f200718
1. Strut Rod Mounting Capscrew and Nut
2. Strut Rod
3. Pressure Cap
2. Remove the pressure cap and attach the appro- 1. Hand Pump
priate adaptor tool (J-42401-3 or J-42401-1A) to
the surge tank. See Fig. 2. Fig. 3, Hand Pump Installation
NOTE: These are Kent-Moore/SPX part num- 5. Remove the pump and adaptor tool, and install
bers. Other companies sell these adaptors, the radiator cap.
Snap-On, Mac, Cornwell, etc. These are the 6. Install the strut rod, and tighten the fasteners 68
same adaptors that are used on cars. lbf·ft (92 N·m).
3. Attach a radiator-pressure hand pump, and apply
no more than 20 psi (138 kPa) of pressure to the
cooling system. See Fig. 3.
4. Check for leaks. Repair as needed.
13
1
A 7
2
6
3
4
9
8
10
11
12
07/31/97 5 f500245
A. With Low Coolant Level Sensor Installed in Top of Tank
1. Breather Cap 9. Surge Tank Fill Cap
2. Retaining Ring 10. Lower Surge Tank Bracket
3. Breather Assembly 11. Capscrew, 5/16–18, Grade 5; Washer
4. Gasket 12. Low Coolant Level Sensor (installed in lower center of
5. Locknut, 3/8–16; Washer tank)
6. Upper Surge Tank Bracket 13. Low Coolant Level Sensor (installed in the top of
7. Machine Screw, 5/16–18, Stainless Steel tank)
8. Surge Tank
1. Drain coolant from the system until no coolant 2. If the low coolant level sensor is installed in the
shows in the surge tank. For instructions, refer to top of the surge tank, remove it.
Subject 100.
If the low coolant level sensor is installed in the
Disconnect the hoses from the surge tank, but lower center of the surge tank, disconnect the
be careful to avoid spilling coolant from the wiring from it.
hoses.
3. Remove the nuts that hold the tank to the upper
and lower support brackets.
IMPORTANT: Disassembling and assembling 2.3 Slip the side channels off the radiator
radiators with nylon tanks requires the special core and tank assembly. See Fig. 4.
tools listed in Table 1. 3. Leak test the radiator core and tank assembly.
9 1
6
2
10
11
7
1
3
5
9 4
8
13
8
1 B
12
2
14
5
10
11
1
A 9 3
4
05/23/95 f500184a
A. Dimple Wave Lock Crimp
B. See Detail
1. Channel Mounting Pin 6. Side Channel (top) 11. Nut
2. Bolt 7. End Tank 12. Radiator Brace Rod
3. 3/8-Inch Flatwasher 8. End Tank Gasket 13. Radiator Core
4. 3/8-16 Bolt 9. Spring Clip 14. Side Channel (bottom)
5. 3/8-16 Nut 10. Lockwasher
1 1
03/25/93 f500172a
1. Spring Clip
CAUTION
In some places, especially around the tank ports,
the wave lock crimps may have to be unlocked
03/25/93 f500180a
02/17/94 f500181a
1. Sealing Surface
02/17/94 f500177a 2. Gasket
CAUTION
Apply only enough pressure to compress the
sealing gasket. Too much pressure will crack the
nylon tank.
1.6 Apply pressure evenly across the top of
the tank until the tank-to-core sealing
gasket is compressed enough to show a
small gap between the bottom of the
dimple wave lock crimp and the tank
sealing flange.
1.7 Place the T-bar into the T-bar groove in
the disassembly/assembly fixture.
1.8 Slide the wave form bar over the T-bar,
and center the bar in front of the wave
crimp slot.
CAUTION
Do not push the wave crimp until it touches the
side of the nylon tank, or the tank may crack.
03/25/93 f500178a
1.9 Push the T-bar forward to crimp the head-
er’s edge until it almost touches the Fig. 9, Crimp the Header
tank’s side. See Fig. 9.
3.1 Slide the side channels onto the radiator
1.10 Slide the tools down the T-bar groove to
core and tank assembly.
the next wave crimp slot, and repeat the
previous steps until all the wave crimps 3.2 Using a rubber mallet and a punch, install
are crimped. the four mounting pins through the side
channel holes and tank bosses. See
CAUTION Fig. 10.
3.3 Install the four spring clips to secure the
In some places, especially around the tank ports, mounting pins in position. See Fig. 11. To
the wave crimps may have to be crimped with a install each clip, place the clip over the
screwdriver. When using a screwdriver, use care end of the mounting pin, and slide the clip
not to crack or gouge the nylon tank. until it engages the groove in the pin and
1.11 Release the pressure from the tank, and the open end of the clips snaps over the
move the clamping cylinders off the radia- edge of the pin. If necessary, use a clamp
tor core and tank assembly. to compress the side channel while in-
stalling the clips.
1.12 Repeat the first step in this procedure to
install the opposite tank. 4. Install the radiator in the vehicle. For instructions,
refer to Subject 130.
2. Leak test the radiator core and tank assembly.
For instructions, refer to "Disassembly."
3. Install the radiator side channels.
1 03/25/93 f500176a
1. Spring Clip
Fig. 11, Install the Spring Clips
02/17/94 f500175a
1. Pin
06/29/95 f500262
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and 3. Remove the air recirculation shields.
tilt the hood.
2. Remove the capscrews that hold the air recircu- Installation (See Fig.1or Fig.2)
lation shields to the charge air cooler and the
radiator. 1. Position the air recirculation shields on the en-
gine, and secure them with capscrews.
06/29/95 f500261
Removal the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
tires.
See Fig. 1 for removal and installation procedures.
1
2
3
4
4
5
7 6
12 8
10 8
9 11
13
12
14
15
16
06/24/2002 f500355
1. Machine Screw, 5/16–18 Stainless Steel 9. Radiator Assembly
2. Upper Surge Tank Bracket 10. Left-Hand Radiator Strut Rod, Inboard
3. Surge Tank 11. Left-Hand Radiator Strut Rod, Outboard
4. Locknut, 3/8–16; Washer 12. Hexnut, 1/2–13, Grade 8; Washer
5. Air Cleaner Mounting Bracket 13. Charge Air Cooler (CAC)
6. Hexnut, 1/2–13, Grade 8; Washer 14. Spacer, Radiator Isolator
7. Right-Hand Radiator Strut Rod 15. Crossmember, Frame
8. Capscrew, 1/2–13 x 2, Grade 8; Washer; Hexnut 16. Hexnut, 1/2–13, Grade 8; Washer
WARNING
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en-
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald-
ing.
2. Drain the radiator. See Group 20 of the Columbia
Maintenance Manual for radiator draining proce-
dures.
3. Open the hood.
4. Disconnect the hood support straps, and support
the hood on a padded table.
5. Disconnect the hoses from the charge air cooler
(CAC).
6. Without disconnecting the refrigerant lines, re-
move the A/C condenser from the front of the
CAC. Cover the condenser with cardboard and
secure it to the side and out of the way. Remove 1
any stand-off brackets for the refrigerant hoses
as needed. 2
NOTE: The isolator has two integral studs. 3. Making sure the studs on the mounting bracket
are aligned with the holes in the isolator and the
There are hexnuts at the top and bottom of front crossmember, lower the radiator onto the
each stud. The top studs fasten the isolator to crossmember.
B
A
02/05/2007 f580432
available. It screws into the replacement radiator and 2. Install the CAC onto the radiator channels, and
allows the existing QLD-equipped lines to connect to tighten the fasteners that hold the channels and
the JIC connectors in the radiator. CAC to the radiator.
1
2
A B
10/10/2007 f500392
A. QLD-to-JIC Adapter B. Adapter Installed in Lower Radiator
1. Lower Radiator 3. QLD-to-JIC Adapter Installed
2. JIC Female Fitting on Transmission Oil Cooler
The adapter fittings are installed only at the radiator; 3. Lift the radiator with the engine hoist, and install
the original QLD connections continue to be used at the lower fan shroud on the radiator. Align the
the transmission. lower fan shroud with the alignment marks made
earlier.
Thread the adapters into the transmission oil cooler;
tighten them 53 lbf·ft (70 N·m). 4. Move the radiator into position about six inches
above the module support.
Insert the transmission oil cooler line QLD connec-
tors into the fitting adapters, as stated above. 5. Install the bottom radiator recirculation baffle.
Test the connection by pushing the QLD fitting 6. Apply sealant 48-00094-141 to the threads of the
straight into the adapter, then pulling straight out with fasteners, then attach the fan. Torque the fasten-
10-lb (4.5-kg) force. ers 30 lbf·ft (40 N·m).
7. Align the marks to position the upper fan shroud
Radiator Installation on the radiator, then install the fasteners that
hold it to the radiator and the lower fan shroud.
1. Install the channels onto the core. Leave the NOTE: Fan tip to fan shroud clearance should
channel fasteners loose, so their position can be
adjusted in final installation.
be 9/32 inch (7 mm). This is closer than on pre-
EPA07 models, and clearance must be carefully
checked.
Fastener Torques
Torque
Description Grade Size
lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·in (N·cm)
Radiator Mounting Bracket Capscrews 8 3/8–16 28 (38) —
Fan Shroud Mounting Screws — 1/4–20 x 3/4 Inch — 108 (1220)
Radiator Mount Nuts 8 5/8–11 241 (327) —
Radiator Strut Nuts 8 1/2–13 68 (92) —
Table 1, Fastener Torques
General Information disengages the fan clutch when the coolant tempera-
ture drops below that range.
The fan drive is a temperature-controlled, air- With the Kysor fan clutch, when you start a cold en-
operated clutch for the engine cooling fan. Its pur- gine, the solenoid valve releases air pressure to the
pose is to maintain engine temperature by engaging cylinder, and the fan clutch remains disengaged. The
or disengaging the fan. For the specific coolant tem- fan does not turn.
peratures that turn the engine fan on, refer to Sec- When the coolant temperature rises to the tempera-
tion 20.00. ture switch setting, the switch provides power to the
Air pressure to the fan clutch is controlled by a sole- solenoid valve, and the valve stops the flow of com-
noid valve; the solenoid valve is controlled by a tem- pressed air to the fan clutch. A spring within the fan
perature switch that is installed in the thermostat engages the clutch, and the fan turns.
housing. See Fig. 1. When the coolant temperature drops to the tempera-
On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole- ture switch cutoff setting, the solenoid releases com-
noid valve is connected to a fan cycling switch at the pressed air to the clutch, and the clutch disengages.
receiver-dryer. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole-
setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch supplies noid valve is connected to a fan cycling switch at the
power to the solenoid valve. See Fig. 2.
A 3
07/18/94 f200019a
A. To the circuit breaker. B. From the secondary air tank.
1. Fan Clutch 2. Solenoid Valve 3. Temperature Switch
Fig. 1, Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring (vehicle without air conditioning)
2
4
1
A
07/18/94 f200020a
A. To the circuit breaker. B. From the secondary air tank.
1. Fan Clutch 3. Solenoid Valve
2. Fan Cycling Switch at the Receiver-Drier 4. Temperature Switch
Fig. 2, Fan Clutch Piping and Wiring (vehicle with air conditioning)
4
3
06/22/95 f200312
1. Nut 3/8–24, grade 5; Washer
2. Fan
3. Fan Clutch
4. Flanged Bolt, M12 x 35 mm, grade 10.9; Washer
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and from the top of the radiator.
chock the tires.
With one person holding each side of the radia-
2. Tilt the hood. tor, tilt the top of the radiator forward.
5. With the radiator tilted forward, remove the fan.
WARNING For instructions, refer to Section 20.01 in this
workshop manual.
Always wear protective equipment such as
goggles or a face shield when working with air
lines that may contain pressure. WARNING
Be careful when loosening the air line fitting; the If the fan clutch engages during the next step, it
line could contain high residual air pressure. If could cause personal injury. Keep the fan clutch
quickly disconnected the line may whip, or it may disengaged throughout this procedure by main-
blow out compressed air, dirt or sludge with suf- taining between 90 and 120 psi (620 and 827 kPa)
ficient force to damage eyes, or cause other per- of air pressure.
sonal injury.
6. Align the access holes in the fan clutch with the 2. Install the fan. For instructions, refer to Sec-
allen screws on the fan hub. See Fig. 2. tion 20.01.
3. If the radiator was moved forward, position the
radiator flat on its mounts, and connect the sup-
port struts to the top of the radiator. For instruc-
tions, refer to Section 20.01 in this workshop
manual.
4. Connect the air line to the fan clutch.
5. Lower the hood.
06/27/95 f200319
Installation
IMPORTANT: A new coupler must be used when
installing the clutch onto the hub.
1. Install the fan clutch onto the fan clutch hub.
1.1 Install a new coupler onto the fan hub.
1.2 Position the fan clutch onto the fan hub,
then push it toward the rear of the vehicle
and rotate the clutch until the flats of the
coupler engage the fan clutch.
1.3 Line up the access holes in the clutch with
the holes for the allen screws in the clutch
hub.
1.4 Install the allen screws, and tighten them
44 lbf·ft (60 N·m).
Special Tools
IMPORTANT: Special tools are are recom-
mended, but not required for this procedure.
See Table 1 for the special tool set.
Special Tools
Description Part Number Order From
Wright Brothers Enterprises
8171 Hibma
Support and Compressor (see Fig. 1) 1090-00000-02
Marion, MI 49665
Telephone: 231-825-2939
Table 1, Special Tools
22 23
19 20 21
12
6 11
10 13
2 4 5
3 7 8 9
1 14
15 16 17
18
08/11/2005 f200325
A. If a lip seal is used, install it so that it faces away from the fan studs.
1. Cylinder Nut 9. Engagement Spring Carrier 17. Flatwasher
2. Cylinder Assembly 10. Shaft Assembly 18. Fan Stud
3. Piston Rod Seal Washer 11. Lining 19. O-Ring
4. Lip Seal (may be O-Ring) 12. Lining Retaining Plates 20. Piston Rod Assembly
5. Dust Seal 13. Lockwasher 21. O-Ring
6. Housing Assembly 14. Screw 22. Snap Ring
7. Engagement Spring End Cap 15. Fan Nut 23. Coupling
8. Engagement Spring 16. Lockwasher
Fig. 4, Removing the Cylinder Nut and Cylinder Fig. 5, Installing the Piston Rod Seal Washer
Relining 9. Remove the air pressure from the fan clutch, and
allow the fan to engage.
IMPORTANT: Premature wearing of the fan 10. Disconnect the shop air, and connect the air line
clutch lining is due to either insufficient air pres- to the fan drive.
sure necessary to fully disengage the clutch (al-
lowing the clutch to remain partially engaged,
thus increasing wear), or a problem in the con-
trol circuit for the fan. Before putting the fan
clutch back in service, check the fan control and
air supply systems and make any necessary re-
pairs.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
parking brake, and shut down the engine. Chock
the tires.
WARNING
If the fan clutch engages during the next step, it
could cause personal injury. Keep the fan clutch
disengaged throughout this procedure by main-
taining between 90 and 120 psi (620 and 827 kPa)
of air pressure.
2. Bleed all the air from the primary and secondary
tanks.
3. Disconnect the air line from the fan drive, and
apply 90 to 110 psi (620 to 760 kPa) shop air
pressure to the fan drive.
4. Remove the six lining plate screws, and remove
the three lining plates. See Fig. 1.
5. Remove the old lining. If the lining sticks, use a
hammer and a screwdriver to free it by tapping
on the dividing cut in the lining.
6. Inspect the clutch shaft. If lining residue is
present, or if the surface appears glazed over
(non-metallic), temporarily release the air pres-
sure from the clutch to allow shaft to protrude,
and use a ScotchBrite to break the glaze.
NOTE: Some applications may be too tight to
spread the lining and slip it over the pulley. If
necessary, the lining can be cut in half with a
hacksaw for installation.
7. Apply air pressure to the clutch again, and install
the new lining. See Fig. 2.
8. Install the new lining plates. Tighten the screws
30 lbf·in (340 N·cm).
22 23
19 20 21
12
6 11
10 13
2 4 5
3 7 8 9
1 14
15 16 17
18
08/11/2005 f200325
A. If a lip seal is used, install it so that it faces away from the fan studs.
1. Cylinder Nut 9. Engagement Spring Carrier 17. Flatwasher
2. Cylinder Assembly 10. Shaft Assembly 18. Fan Stud
3. Piston Rod Seal Washer 11. Lining 19. O-Ring
4. Lip Seal (may be O-Ring) 12. Lining Retaining Plates 20. Piston Rod Assembly
5. Dust Seal 13. Lockwasher 21. O-Ring
6. Housing Assembly 14. Screw 22. Snap Ring
7. Engagement Spring End Cap 15. Fan Nut 23. Coupling
8. Engagement Spring 16. Lockwasher
06/26/95 f200324
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—The Fan Clutch Fails to Engage
Problem—The Fan Clutch Fails to Engage
Possible Cause Remedy
There’s no power to the fan clutch control Check all electrical connections, and repair or replace wiring as needed.
circuit. Check the circuit breaker for the engine fan and repair or replace as needed.
The engine temperature switch is
Make sure the switch is normally closed, not normally open. Replace the
damaged or an incorrect sensor has been
switch if it is damaged or if the switch is the wrong type.
installed.
The solenoid valve is malfunctioning. Replace the solenoid valve.
The fan clutch is leaking. Install a new seal kit.
The air supply to the fan clutch is Make sure the fan clutch air lines are not leaking or pinched. Repair the lines
restricted. as needed.
If the lubricant that comes with the rebuild kit for the • Chevron SR12
Kysor K22RA fan clutch is unavailable, use one of • Amoco Rykon Premium #2EP
the following approved lubricants:
• Texaco RB Premium
• Aeroshell 5
• Shell Alvania R3
05/08/95 f010959
Removal Installation
1. Position the heater element in the engine block.
Coat the threads of the element with a small
amount of sealant. For the approved sealants,
refer to Specifications, 400.
2. Secure the heater element in the engine block by
screwing the element into the engine block hand
tight, then use a wrench to turn the element
1-1/2 turns more.
3. Plug the cord into the element and (if applicable)
secure it by screwing the threaded cord cover in
place.
4. Fill the cooling system. For instructions, refer to
Section 20.01.
5. Start the engine and check for leaks. Repair any
leaks as necessary. Run the engine for half an
hour to purge any air from the coolant system.
6. To test the heater, plug a wattmeter into a power
source, and connect the heater cord to the
meter. A reading on the meter will indicate the
heater is working.
05/08/95 f010959
WARNING
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en-
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald-
ing.
3. Drain the radiator. For instructions, refer to Sec-
tion 20.01.
4. If applicable, unscrew the threaded cover that
secures the cord to the element. See Fig. 1 .
5. Pull the cord off the element.
6. Remove the element from the engine block by
loosening the jam nut (if applicable) and uscrew-
ing the element from the engine block.
FOULED ELEMENT
1. Park the vehicle, apply the parking brakes, and
chock the tires.
2. Tilt the hood.
WARNING
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en-
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald-
ing.
APPROVED SEALANTS
• Loctite 567
• Henkel 790 Pipegrip
• Perma-Loc LH-150
General Information
The Horton DriveMaster® fan clutch is a temperature-
controlled, air-operated clutch for the engine cooling
fan. It is spring engaged, and controls the engine
temperature by engaging or disengaging the fan.
When the coolant temperature is below a specified
range, air pressure keeps the fan disengaged to
save engine power. When the coolant temperature
rises above the specified range, air pressure to the
fan clutch is cut off and internal spring pressure en-
gages the fan.
Air pressure to the fan clutch is controlled by a sole-
noid valve; the solenoid valve is controlled by a tem-
perature switch installed in the thermostat housing.
The temperature switch is connected to the engine
ECM, which controls the solenoid valve. See Fig. 1.
When you start a cold engine, the solenoid valve al-
lows air pressure to the fan clutch and the clutch re-
mains disengaged. When the coolant temperature
rises to the temperature switch setting, the switch
provides power to the solenoid valve and the valve
cuts off compressed air to engage the fan.
On vehicles with air conditioning, the fan clutch sole-
noid valve is connected to a fan cycling switch at the
receiver-dryer. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the
setting of the fan cycling switch, the switch supplies
power to the solenoid valve, which cuts off air to the
fan clutch, engaging the fan.
3
1 2
5
4
6
10
9
D
+12V
C 11
A C 12
C
7
+12V
8 14
B 13
08/11/2005 f544122
A. To Indicators and Gauges C. Normally Closed
B. To Electronic Injectors and Other Actuators D. Normally Open
1. Fan Override Switch 6. Foot Throttle 9. Solenoid Valve
2. Air Temperature Sensor 7. Engine ECM 10. Air Supply from Reservoir
3. Engine Speed Sensor 8. Fan Relay (not present in all 11. Fan Clutch
4. A/C Pressure Switch systems) 12. Air Supply to Fan Clutch
5. Coolant Temperature Sensor
05/29/2002 f200576
8. Lower the hood.
1. Hexnut 9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
2. Fan Clutch Assembly
3. Hexbolt
6
5
4
3
2
1
14 16
15 17
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
05/30/2002 f200568
1. Fan Mounting Disc 6. Air Chamber Seal 12. Air Cartridge Retaining Ring
2. Torx®-Head Screw (8 qty.) 7. Air Chamber Cap Retaining Ring 13. Air Cartridge Assembly
3. Friction Lining 8. O-Ring 14. Sheave Bearings
4. Cage Nut (supplied with repair 9. Air Chamber Cap 15. Bearing Spacer
kit) 10. Face Seal 16. Sheave
5. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly 11. Bearing Nut 17. Journal Bracket
WARNING
A
1 Do not disassemble the spring housing from the
piston. The interior springs are very strong, and
if released could eject the housing with consider-
2 able force, possibly resulting in serious injury.
Always use the cage nut to hold the spring hous-
ing and the piston together.
8. Using a wrench and a T55 Torx bit to hold the
jack bolt, install the cage nut from the kit onto
the jack bolt (left-hand thread). Hand tighten it
onto the spring housing.
3
The cage nut will keep the spring housing and
piston together as an assembly. It will also main-
tain pressure on the internal springs after the
05/30/2002 f200583
Torx-head screws holding the friction lining in
A. Place the pry bar here. place are removed.
1. Pry Bar (push clockwise)
2. Torx Bit and Wrench (turn counterclockwise) 9. Release the air pressure from the fan clutch.
3. Shop Air Hose (connected to the inlet port)
1
4
3 2
2
1
3
06/05/2002 f200571
1. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly
2. Cage Nut
3. Friction Lining
4. Torx-Head Screws
05/28/2002 f200572
24. Remove the air cartridge.
1. Air Chamber 24.1 Remove the retaining ring. See Fig. 9.
2. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly (with cage nut
installed) 24.2 Remove the air cartridge assembly. See
Fig. 10 .
Fig. 5, Spring Housing/Piston Assembly Removal and
Installation
Assembly
19. Inspect the face seal for signs of wear. Wear in-
dicates that dirt may exist in the air system 1. If necessary, clean the air cartridge bore in the
mounting bracket.
05/29/2002 f200574
1. Bearing Nut
2. Mounting Bracket
1
05/29/2002 f200575
05/29/2002 f200578
1. Sheave
2. Mounting Bracket 1. Float Seal Tip
2. Air Cartridge
Fig. 8, Removing the Sheave
Fig. 10, Removing the Air Cartridge
NOTE: The sheave bearings do not require lu-
brication. 2.1 If equipped with two bearings, assemble
the bearings so the markings on their
2. If replacing the sheave bearings, do the follow- edges line up to form an arrow. See
ing:
Fig. 11 . It doesn’t matter which way the 3. Apply O-ring lubricant from the kit to the outside
arrow faces when the bearings are in- O-rings of the new air cartridge assembly. See
stalled. Fig. 13 .
1 1
A
3
3 A
1 1 03/27/2000 f200515
A. Convex surface of the retaining ring goes toward
05/30/2002 f200582 the air cartridge.
A. Align the markings to form an arrow. 1. Retaining Ring
1. Sheave Bearing 2. O-Rings
3. Air Cartridge
Fig. 11, Aligning the Bearings
Fig. 13, Installing the Air Cartridge Retaining Ring
IMPORTANT: If the fan clutch uses spacers,
be sure to install them between the bear- 4. Install the new air cartridge assembly into the
mounting bracket.
ings.
5. Install the retaining ring, making sure the convex
2.2 Supporting the sheave, press the new
surface of the ring is toward the air cartridge.
sheave bearings — and spacers, if appli-
See Fig. 13 .
cable — into place. Note the position of
the lip inside the sheave. 6. Using a clean, dry cloth, clean both the float seal
tip of the air cartridge and the face seal of the air
2.3 Slide the sheave onto the mounting
chamber cap.
bracket. See Fig. 8 .
7. Assemble the air chamber cap and face seal.
2.4 Making sure that the bearing nut hex is
See Fig. 6 .
facing up, install the bearing nut. See
Fig. 12 . Tighten 130 lbf·ft (176 N·m). See Tighten the face seal 75 to 100 lbf·in (850 to
Fig. 7 . 1130 N·cm).
8. Lubricate the O-ring seal with the fresh lubricant
from the kit.
A
9. Install the O-ring seal on the air chamber cap.
See Fig. 6 .
10. Carefully set the air chamber cap into the
sheave. See Fig. 6 .
Disassembly
NOTE: This procedure involves a minor rebuild A
1
of the Horton DriveMaster® fan clutch, using
parts from the manufacturer’s Seal Kit. If a ma-
jor rebuild of the fan clutch is needed, see Sub- 2
ject 110.
1. Remove the fan clutch assembly from the ve-
hicle. For instructions, see Subject 100.
2. Put the fan clutch assembly in a vise.
3. Connect a shop air hose to the fan clutch air in- 3
let.
4. Apply 80 to 120 psi (552 to 827 kPa) to the fan
clutch to lift the fan mounting disc off the spring 05/30/2002 f200583
housing/piston assembly.
A. Place the pry bar here.
1. Pry Bar (push clockwise)
CAUTION 2. Torx Bit and Wrench (turn counterclockwise)
3. Shop Air Hose (connected to the inlet port)
Use care when placing the pry bar onto the fan
mounting disc. Make sure it is secure and flat on Fig. 1, Loosening the Jack Bolt
the surface. Failure to do so make cause the pry
bar to slip, which could result in damage to studs
or the fan mounting disc.
5. Using a pry bar, wrench, and a T55 Torx® bit,
loosen the jack bolt (left-hand thread) by turning 1
it counterclockwise. See Fig. 1.
6. Unscrew the fan mounting disc from the jack
bolt. See Fig. 2.
2
7. Inspect the fan mounting disc for wear or dam-
age.
WARNING
Do not disassemble the spring housing from the
piston. The interior springs are very strong, and
if released could eject the housing with consider- 08/07/2002 f200586
able force, possibly resulting in serious injury. 1. Fan Mounting Disc
Always use the cage nut to hold the spring hous- 2. Jack Bolt (left-hand thread)
ing and the piston together.
Fig. 2, Fan Mounting Disc Removal and Installation
8. Using a wrench and T55 Torx bit to hold the jack
bolt, install the cage nut from the kit onto the Torx-head screws holding the friction lining in
jack bolt (left-hand thread). Hand tighten it onto place are removed.
the spring housing. 9. Release the air pressure from the fan clutch.
The cage nut will keep the spring housing and
piston together as an assembly. It will also main-
tain pressure on the internal springs after the
WARNING 2
05/28/2002 f200572
4
1. Air Chamber
2. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly (with cage nut
installed)
3
Fig. 4, Spring Housing/Piston Assembly Removal and
2 Installation
1 17. Remove the O-ring seal from the air chamber
cap. See Fig. 5 .
18. Remove the face seal. See Fig. 5 .
19. Inspect the face seal for signs of wear. Wear in-
dicates that dirt may exist in the air system.
20. Remove the air cartridge.
06/05/2002 f200571 20.1 Remove the retaining ring. See Fig. 6.
1. Spring Housing/Piston Assembly 20.2 Remove the air cartridge assembly. See
2. Cage Nut
Fig. 7 .
3. Friction Lining
4. Torx-Head Screws
07/13/94 f200029a
WARNING
The new spring housing/piston assembly from
the kit has a cage nut installed on it. Do not re-
move the cage nut. This will cause the spring
housing to be forcibly ejected from the piston
assembly, which could result in serious injury.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Air Is Leaking from the Fan Clutch
Problem—Air Is Leaking from the Fan Clutch
Possible Cause Remedy
The face seal or air cartridge is damaged Install a new seal kit.
or worn.
The O-ring seals are damaged or worn. Install a new seal kit.
Torque Values
Torque
Description
lbf·in (N·cm) lbf·ft (N·m)
Friction Lining Screws 80 (900) —
Face Seal 75 to 100 (850 to 1130) —
Bearing Nut — 130 (176)
Jack Bolt — 100 (136)
Table 2, Torque Values
3
1 2
5
4
6
10
9
D
+12V
C 11
A C 12
C
7
+12V
8 14
B 13
08/11/2005 f544122
A. To Indicators and Gauges C. Normally Closed
B. To Electronic Injectors and Other Actuators D. Normally Open
1. Fan Override Switch 6. Foot Throttle 9. Solenoid Valve
2. Air Temperature Sensor 7. Engine ECM 10. Air Supply from Reservoir
3. Engine Speed Sensor 8. Fan Relay (not present in all 11. Fan Clutch
4. A/C Pressure Switch systems) 12. Air Supply to Fan Clutch
5. Coolant Temperature Sensor
1 2 3 4
04/16/2003 f250604
4
For clutch capacities, see the appropriate Solo clutch
table in Specifications, 400.
1 2 3 4
5
05/29/2003 f250606
Principles of Operation away from the pressure plate inside the clutch cover.
This compresses the pressure springs, allowing the
The primary purpose of the clutch is to transfer the driven discs to slip freely, and at a different speed
power of the engine from the engine flywheel to the from the drive discs.
transmission. At the point where clutch engagement
begins (clutch pedal partially released), the transmis-
sion input shaft may be stationary, as when the ve-
hicle is not moving, or it may be rotating at a differ-
ent speed than the flywheel, as in the case of
upshifting or downshifting. Once the clutch is fully
engaged (clutch pedal fully released), both the en-
gine flywheel and the transmission input shaft will be
rotating at the same speed. A
The secondary purpose of the clutch is to damp un-
wanted vibrations that normally exist in the driveline
system. The springs within each driven disc provide B
a flexible link between the friction surfaces and the
disc hubs. Damped clutch discs are specifically de- C
signed to prolong the life of drivetrain components by 05/22/2003 f250617
reducing vibrations from the engine, non-uniform
A. Clutch Free-Pedal
U-joint angles, and road dips and bumps. B. Clutch Release-Pedal
When the clutch pedal is first pressed down, the first C. Clutch Brake Squeeze
1/2-inch to 1-inch (12.7 to 25.4 mm) of pedal move- Fig. 6, Clutch Pedal Movement
ment (clutch free-pedal) causes the release yoke fin-
gers to move into contact with the wear pads of the Further downward movement of the clutch pedal
release bearing (release yoke free-travel). See (clutch release-pedal), causes the release bearing to
Fig. 6. The release yoke pulls the release bearing move into contact with the clutch brake (release
Release bearing travel is the clearance between the 1. Clutch Inspection Cover
aft end of the release bearing housing and the for- Fig. 1, Remove the Clutch Inspection Cover
ward surface of the clutch brake disc. For the clutch
to release properly, the release bearing travel mea- disc-type clutch brake with washer) tight against
surement must be between 1/2 and 9/16 inch (12.7 the transmission input-shaft bearing cap. See
to 14.3 mm). Fig. 2. Also, slide the release bearing as far as
possible towards the transmission.
As the clutch wears, the release bearing moves to-
wards the engine flywheel, reducing release yoke
free-travel and increasing release bearing travel. If
internal clutch adjustments are not made, the release
yoke fingers will eventually ride against the wear
pads. This could cause the following problems:
• Worn bearing wear pads and release yoke
• Damaged release bearing and housing
• Eventual clutch slippage and burn-up 1
CAUTION
Make sure the internal adjustment is correct be- 2
fore making any linkage adjustments. Incorrect
adjustments can cause transmission gear clash, 03/01/94 f250003a
slipping, and burning of clutch components.
1. Transmission Input-Shaft Bearing Cap
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock all the tires. 2. Clutch Brake
2. Remove the clutch inspection cover from the bot- Fig. 2, Position the Clutch Brake
tom of the bell housing. See Fig. 1.
IMPORTANT: Release bearing travel tool A02–
3. Slide the clutch brake (either the one-piece 12419 is available through the PDCs. One end
torque-limiting clutch brake, or the two-piece
of the tool has green tape on it and is 0.50 inch 4.2 Insert the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end.
(12.7 mm) in diameter; the other end has blue If it fits loosely, the gap is too wide and
tape on it and is 0.56 inch (14.3 mm) in diam- adjustment is needed. See "Adjustment."
eter. 4.3 If the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end can’t
4. Measure the release bearing travel. See Fig. 3 be inserted in the gap, then try to insert
for the correct dimension to measure. Using both the green 0.50-inch (12.7-mm) end. If the
ends of the release bearing travel tool ( Fig. 4), green end of the tool fits, snug or loose,
check this gap as follows: then no adjustment is needed.
4.4 If the green end of the tool can’t be in-
serted in the gap, adjustment is needed.
See "Adjustment."
5. If no internal clutch adjustment is necessary, go
1 to "Release Yoke Free-Travel."
A Adjustment
To adjust Easy-Pedal clutches, use the Eaton Fuller
Kwik-Adjust® mechanism (see Fig. 5).
C
03/01/94 f250172a
09/15/95 f250309
A B
Fig. 5, Adjustment with Kwik-Adjust
1. Turn the engine flywheel until the lockstrap is
A B aligned with the clutch inspection-cover opening.
See Fig. 1 and Fig. 6.
03/26/96 f580133 2. Release the clutch by depressing the pedal.
A. 0.50 inch (12.7 mm) B. 0.56 inch (14.3 mm) Block the pedal in the released position, or have
someone assist you by holding the pedal down
Fig. 4, Release Bearing Travel Tool A02-12419 during the adjustment procedure.
4.1 Position the tool so that the legs straddle NOTE: An open-end wrench is not recom-
the transmission input shaft. mended for the following step.
3. Adjust the clutch, using a 5/8-inch box-end or the other end have blue tape on them and are
socket wrench on the adjustment bolt. 0.145 inch (3.7 mm) thick.
3.1 Insert the 5/8-inch box-end or socket
1. Measure the release yoke free-travel. See Fig. 3
wrench through the inspection cover
for the correct dimension to measure. Using both
opening.
ends of the free-travel tool ( Fig. 6), check the
3.2 To begin the adjustment, release the ad- gap as follows:
justment bolt by pressing down on the
bolt head.
NOTE: Normal wear increases the gap be-
tween the release bearing and the transmis-
sion.
3.3 To decrease the gap: If clearance be-
tween the release bearing housing and
the clutch brake is more than 9/16-inch
(14.3 mm), turn the adjustment bolt clock-
wise (the release bearing moves toward A B
the transmission).
To increase the gap: If clearance between
the release bearing housing and the
clutch brake is less than 1/2-inch (12.7
mm), turn the adjustment bolt counter- 03/26/96 f580132
clockwise (the release bearing moves to- A. 0.105 inch (2.7 mm) B. 0.145 inch (3.7 mm)
ward the engine).
Fig. 6, Release Yoke Free-Travel Tool A02-12254
3.4 When the adjustment is complete, make
sure the adjustment bolt is locked (pulled 2. Position the tool so that the legs straddle the re-
up flush with the mounting bolts). lease yoke.
NOTE: On Easy-Pedal 2000 clutches, each 3. Insert the blue 0.145-inch (3.7-mm) end. If it fits
complete turn of the adjustment bolt represents loosely, the gap is too wide and linkage adjust-
about 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) of release bearing ment is needed. See Section 25.01, Subject
movement. On earlier Easy-Pedal models, each 100.
complete turn of the adjustment bolt represents 4. If the blue 0.145-inch (3.7-mm) end can’t be in-
about 0.02-inch (0.5 mm) of release bearing serted in the gap, then try to insert the green
movement. 0.105-inch (2.7-mm) end. If the green end of the
tool fits, snug or loose, then no adjustment is
4. After adjusting, release the pedal and check the needed.
clearance between the release bearing housing
and the clutch brake. When the clearance is 1/2 5. If the green end of the tool can’t be inserted in
to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm), the adjustment is the gap, linkage adjustment is needed. See Sec-
complete. tion 25.01, Subject 100.
Removal
1
Solo™ Heavy-Duty Clutch
Use the following procedure if you need to tempo- AC
E
PL
rarily remove and then reinstall an Eaton Fuller Solo NE RE
W
Heavy-Duty 15.5" adjustment-free clutch. Failure to
follow these steps could cause the Solo clutch to
drag or not release upon installation. 2
IMPORTANT: Check the position of the wear
indicating tab on the clutch cover. If the wear
indicating tab is near the REPLACE position on
the indicator, it is time to replace the clutch. 06/04/97 f250428
With the clutch pedal down, set the tab to the NEW po-
NOTICE sition on the indicator.
1. Clutch Cover
For proper installation of the Solo clutch, the 2. Wear Indicating Tab
wear indicating tab must be reset. Failure to reset
this tab will prevent clutch release and result in Fig. 1, Resetting the Wear Indicating Tab
possible clutch damage.
NOTE: This step requires two persons: one NOTICE
under the vehicle with access to the wear indi-
cating tab, and the other in the vehicle to press Do not let the rear of the transmission drop, and
do not let the transmission hang unsupported in
the clutch pedal. the splined hubs of the clutch discs. Taking
1. Reset the wear indicating tab with the clutch in these precautions will prevent bending and dis-
the vehicle, as follows. tortion of the clutch discs.
1.1 From inside the cab, press the clutch 3. Remove the clutch brake from the transmission
pedal all the way down. Hold the clutch input shaft. See Fig. 2.
pedal down until the wear indicating tab is
reset.
1.2 Through the clutch inspection cover, slide
the wear indicating tab to the left until it is
at the NEW position on the indicator. See
Fig. 1.
1.3 From inside the cab, release the clutch
pedal. Check to be sure the wear indicat-
ing tab stays at the NEW position on the
indicator.
NOTE: Before pulling the transmission from the
bell housing, disconnect the external clutch link-
age and rotate the release yoke so the yoke will
clear the release bearing when it is removed.
03/01/94 f250163a
2. Remove the transmission. See Section 26.00.
Fig. 2, Clutch Brake Removal
E
AC
PL
RE
wheel. 3
REP
10/10/95 f250312
4 1
2 5
6 3
10/10/95 f250314
WARNING
The clutch assembly is heavy. It should be re-
moved and installed only with a lifting device. If
the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it
could cause serious personal injury.
03/01/94 f250022a
Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel housing, with
the gauge finger against the flywheel face, and near the
outer edge.
Fig. 1, Measure the Flywheel Face
3.1 With the indicator still secured to the fly- 4.4 The SAE maximum total runout for the
wheel housing, move the gauge finger to flywheel-housing bore is 0.008 inch (0.20
contact the surface of the pilot-bearing mm). If readings are higher, replace the
bore. flywheel housing. For instructions, see the
engine manufacturer’s manual.
3.2 Turn the flywheel through one complete
revolution. With chalk or soapstone, mark 5. Measure the runout of the face of the flywheel
the high and low points on the bore of the housing. See Fig. 5 for the correct set-up.
pilot bearing.
3.3 Calculate the runout as before.
3.4 The SAE maximum total runout for the
pilot-bearing bore is 0.005 inch (0.13 mm).
If the readings are higher, see the engine
manufacturer’s manual for instructions.
4. Measure the runout of the flywheel housing bore.
See Fig. 4 for the correct set-up.
05/01/2003 f250615
Secure the dial indicator to the outer diameter of the
flywheel, with the gauge finger against the face of the
flywheel housing.
Fig. 5, Measure the Flywheel Housing Face
close tolerances. The shaft runs through the 7.2 Turn the crankshaft through one complete
center of the plugs, and extends to the front far revolution. With chalk or soapstone, mark
enough to secure a dial indicator and obtain a the high and low points on the face of the
reading on the bell housing. crankshaft.
6. Measure the runout of the bell housing face and 7.3 Calculate the runout as before.
pilot. 7.4 See the engine manufacturer’s manual for
6.1 Secure the dial indicator to the case-bore maximum runout, corrective measures,
shaft, with the gauge finger against the and flywheel installation instructions.
face of the bell housing.
6.2 Turn the case-bore shaft through one Resetting (clutch out of
complete revolution. With chalk or soap- vehicle)
stone, mark the high and low points on
the face of the bell housing.
NOTICE
6.3 Calculate the runout as before.
Use this procedure if the clutch was removed
6.4 The SAE maximum total runout for the without caging the pressure plate. Resetting the
bell-housing face is 0.008 inch (0.20 mm). pressure plate allows the clutch to release after
If the readings are higher, replace the bell installation and prevents possible clutch damage.
housing. See the transmission manufac-
turer’s service manual for instructions. 1. Remove the four shipping bolts if they have been
installed. See Fig. 7.
7. Remove the flywheel (see the engine manufac-
turer’s manual), and measure the runout of the
flywheel crankshaft face. See Fig. 6.
E
AC
PL
RE
03/01/94 f250024a
Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel housing, with
the gauge finger against the crankshaft face, and near
the outer edge. 03/02/2010 f250676
Fig. 6, Measure the Crankshaft Face Runout
Fig. 7, Installed Shipping Bolts
7.1 Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel
housing, with the gauge finger against the 2. Support the clutch cover in an arbor press with
crankshaft face, and near the outer edge. the release bearing facing down. When setting
up the arbor press, allow at least 1 inch (25 mm)
E
AC
PL
NE RE
W
06/04/97 f250428
1. Clutch Cover
2. Wear Indicating Tab
Pre-Installation Procedures A
NOTICE
Tap on the outer race only. Tapping on the inner 6 B
race could damage the pilot bearing.
03/01/94 f250169a
NOTE: To discourage warranty claims for drag
or clutch noise, use a premium grade C3/C4 A. Top
B. The most common areas of wear are between the 3
pilot bearing. Due to increased operating tem- o’clock and 8 o’clock positions.
peratures and longer clutch life, the standard
pilot bearings and grease are no longer accept- Fig. 12, Check for Wear
able.
NOTE: The pilot (lip) of the bell housing can
2. Check for wear on the mating surfaces of the wear into the flywheel housing. This can be
flywheel housing and the transmission bell hous-
caused by the transmission loosening up, or by
ing. Any noticeable wear on either part causes
misalignment. If worn, replace the part. See road and engine vibration after high mileage.
Fig. 11. 4. Inspect the flywheel. Replace or repair the fly-
wheel if the wear is extreme.
4.1 Visually inspect the friction surface of the
3 flywheel for heat checks and scoring.
4.2 Measure the friction surface wear with a
straightedge and feeler gauge. For instruc-
tions, see the engine manufacturer’s
2 manual.
5. Inspect the input shaft, both the splined and the
smooth area. See Fig. 13.
5.1 Check the fit of the splined hubs of the
driven discs by sliding them along the
splines of the input shaft. The hubs must
slide freely so the clutch will release
1 cleanly. If necessary, use a hand stone to
03/01/94 f250017a dull the sharp edges of the splines.
1. Mating Surfaces 5.2 If the input shaft splines are worn or
2. Engine Flywheel Housing
notched, or if the hubs still do not slide
3. Transmission Bell Housing
freely, replace the input shaft. For instruc-
tions, see the transmission manufacturer’s
Fig. 11, Inspect the Mating Surfaces
service manual.
3. Check the flywheel for wear caused by the bell 5.3 Inspect the smooth area of the input shaft
housing pilot (projecting lip of the bell housing). for wear and/or rough spots. Replace the
The correct dimension is 1/8-inch (3.2-mm). input shaft if necessary.
Wear is most likely to appear between the 3
o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. See Fig. 12.
2
2
1 3
4
3
1
5
6 A
05/01/2003 f250613
1. Cross-Shaft
05/01/2003 f250612
2. Sleeve Bushing
3. Release Yoke Finger A. Length of Input Shaft, from the Splined End to the
4. Input Shaft (splined area) Bearing Cap
5. Input Shaft (smooth area)
1. Input Shaft 3. Bearing Cap
6. Bearing Cap
2. Bell Housing
Fig. 13, Clutch Inspection Points
Fig. 14, Measure the Input Shaft
6. To prevent side-loading, inspect all pivot points of
8. Install a new clutch brake on the transmission
the clutch linkage for excessive wear and replace
input shaft, as shown in Fig. 15. Slide it tight
them if necessary. See Fig. 13. Pay special at-
against the input-shaft bearing cap.
tention to the following points:
6.1 Check for excessive wear at the fingers of
the release yoke where they contact re-
lease bearing wear pads.
6.2 Check the clutch cross-shaft and sleeve
bushings for excessive wear. Check the
sleeve bushings for walk-out.
7. To prevent clutch brake wear, check the input-
shaft bearing cap and measure it as shown in
Fig. 14.
7.1 Visually check the bearing cap for exces-
sive wear.
7.2 Measure the distance between the splined
end of the input shaft and the bearing cap 03/01/94 f260096a
(dimension A). If dimension A is greater Fig. 15, Install the Clutch Brake
than 8.71 inches (221.5 mm), replace the
bearing cap. 9. Check the diameter of the flywheel bore opening
NOTE: Torque-limiting clutch brakes are a one- (this is the recessed area for the flywheel bolt
piece assembly with a large and a small face. circle). See Table 1 for minimum flywheel bore
diameters for each disc type.
When installing a torque-limiting clutch brake on
an Eaton® Fuller® or Meritor™ transmission, in-
stall the smaller face toward the transmission.
Installation
Solo™ Heavy-Duty Clutch
NOTE: Do the clutch inspection and pre-
installation procedures in Subject 120 before
installing the clutch.
E
LAC
REP
1. If not already installed, insert two 7/16–14 x 5
guide studs in the upper mounting holes of the
flywheel. See Fig. 1. Rotate the flywheel to level
the guide studs.
06/02/97 f250419
03/01/94 f250034a
4. Install the rear driven disc and intermediate Fig. 3, Installing the Rear Driven Disc
plate.
4.2 Place the intermediate plate in the clutch
4.1 Install the rear driven disc on the aligning cover. Align the drive lugs of the plate
tool, with the side stamped INTERMEDI- with the notches in the cover. See Fig. 4.
ATE PLATE SIDE facing away from the
clutch cover. See Fig. 3. 4.3 Make sure the positive separator pins™
protrude toward the flywheel side. See
Fig. 4. The pins should be flush on the
pressure-plate side.
WARNING
The clutch assembly is heavy. It should be re-
moved and installed only with a lifting device. If
A
the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it
could cause serious personal injury.
6. Position the clutch over the two guide studs, and
slide the assembly forward until contact is made
with the flywheel surface. See Fig. 6.
04/23/2003 f250609
The separator pins should protrude to the flywheel side.
A. Flywheel Side
06/02/97 f250422
RE
PL
AC
E
RE
PL
AC
E
06/02/97 f250423
06/20/2000 f250418
6 2
Fig. 9, Remove the Shipping Bolts
NOTE: Retain these four shipping bolts. These
bolts will be needed in the future to secure the
4 clutch assembly during removal and installation.
7
10. Remove the aligning tool. On maintenance-free
clutches only, remove the input shaft sleeve.
8
E
LAC
f250426a
WARNING
05/29/2003
Wear safety goggles when tapping the pins. If
Fig. 8, Tightening Sequence, Solo any of the metal parts were to chip, flying pieces
• prevent the clutch cover from centering into of metal could possibly cause eye injury.
the pilot area of the flywheel; 11.2 Using a 1/4-inch (6-mm) diameter flat
• cause the clutch assembly to be out-of- nose punch, lightly tap each of the four
balance with the flywheel; positive separator pins toward the fly-
wheel through the access holes. This
• cause permanent damage to the clutch cover. step verifies that all the four pins are flush
9. Following a crisscross pattern, remove and retain against the flywheel. See Fig. 11.
the four yellow shipping bolts from the clutch NOTE: Failure to perform this step properly may
cover. See Fig. 9. cause the clutch to drag (clutch does not re-
CAUTION
E
tenance Manual.
Easy-Pedal™ Clutch
1
NOTE: Do the clutch inspection and pre-
installation procedures in Subject 120 before
installing the clutch.
1. If not already installed, insert two 7/16–14 x 5
06/02/97 f250416 guide studs in the upper mounting holes of the
1. Pin Access Hole flywheel. See Fig. 1. Rotate the flywheel to level
the guide studs.
Fig. 11, Tapping the Pin, Solo
2. If the clutch is new, remove the protective coat-
lease). If necessary, after the transmission has ing from the pressure plate and the intermediate
plate.
03/01/94 f250035a
Fig. 12, Make Sure the Release Yoke Clears the Bearing
3. Set the clutch cover upright, and insert a spline ATE PLATE SIDE facing away from the
aligning tool through the release bearing sleeve. clutch cover. See Fig. 3.
See Fig. 13.
NOTE: On 8-, 9-, and 10-spring discs, this
side will be stamped FLYWHEEL SIDE.
4.2 Place the intermediate plate in the clutch
cover. Align the drive lugs of the plate
with the notches in the cover. See Fig. 4.
4.3 Make sure the positive separator pins™
protrude toward the flywheel side. See
Fig. 4. The pins should be flush on the
pressure-plate side.
5. Install the front driven disc on the aligning tool,
with the side stamped INTERMEDIATE PLATE
SIDE facing the intermediate plate. See Fig. 5.
Be sure that both driven discs are aligned as
shown in Fig. 14.
03/01/94 f250036a
NOTE: On 8-, 9-, and 10-spring discs, this side
Fig. 13, Insert an Aligning Tool, Easy-Pedal is stamped FLYWHEEL SIDE.
NOTE: Six-spring driven discs are identical,
front and rear. Either disc can be installed first WARNING
on the aligning tool. The clutch assembly is heavy. It should be re-
4. Install the rear driven disc and intermediate moved and installed only with a lifting device. If
plate. the assembly is lifted incorrectly or dropped, it
could cause serious personal injury.
4.1 Install the rear driven disc on the aligning
tool, with the side stamped INTERMEDI- 6. Position the clutch over the two guide studs, and
slide the assembly forward until it starts in the
flywheel pilot. See Fig. 15.
03/01/94 f250041a
6 2
10/10/95 f250315
4 7
A. Flywheel Side
B. Front Driven Disc
C. Rear Driven Disc
8 3
Fig. 14, Checking Disc Alignment
7. Start six 7/16–14 x 2-1/4 (grade 5 or better)
mounting bolts with lockwashers, and fasten
them finger-tight. Tap the aligning tool to make
sure it is centered and seated in the pilot bear- 1 5
ing, then remove the two guide studs and re-
10/10/95 f250316
place them with 7/16–14 x 2-1/4 bolts and lock-
washers. Fig. 16, Tightening Sequence, Easy-Pedal
8. Tighten the eight clutch mounting bolts progres- 9. As the capscrews are tightened, the release
sively, in the sequence shown in Fig. 16. The bearing spacers should fall free. If they don’t,
final torque is 40 to 50 lbf·ft (54 to 68 N·m). remove them. This may require light taps with a
mallet on the end of the aligning tool.
CAUTION 10. Remove the aligning tool.
If the bolts are not tightened in sequence, it may 11. Set the positive separator pins.
cause permanent damage to the clutch cover and
create an out-of-balance condition. 11.1 Locate the pin access holes. See Fig. 17.
10/11/95 f250318
1
1
1
A
2
1 3
1
4
08/02/2006 f250655
Fig. 2, Removing the Gap Between the Sleeve and the Pin
f580427
08/02/2006
1 f250656
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—The Clutch Does Not Release Completely
Problem—The Clutch Does Not Release Completely
Possible Cause Remedy
The clutch pedal height is incorrect. Adjust the clutch to obtain the following settings:
• 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to 14.3 mm) release bearing travel;
• 0.105 to 0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 mm) release yoke free-travel; and
• 1/2 to 1 inch (12.7 to 25.4 mm) clutch brake squeeze.
The bushing in the release bearing sleeve Replace the clutch cover.
assembly is damaged.
The clutch cover assembly is not properly Re-seat the clutch cover assembly into the flywheel. Use a crisscross pattern
seated into the flywheel. when tightening the mounting bolts.
The intermediate plate and/or pressure Replace any damaged parts.
plate is cracked or broken.
The cross shafts protrude through the re- Check for protruding cross shafts. Repair or replace as necessary.
lease yoke (a side-loading condition ex-
ists).
The release yoke fingers are bent or worn Install a new release yoke.
(a side-loading condition exists).
The engine housing and bell housing are Check for loose transmission mounting bolts. Tighten the transmission mount-
misaligned (a side-loading condition ex- ing bolts to the proper torque.
ists).
The clutch linkage is set up improperly (a Thoroughly examine the clutch linkage and adjust as necessary.
side-loading condition exists).
The driven discs are distorted or warped. Replace any distorted or warped driven discs. If the transmission is allowed to
hang unsupported during clutch installation, the driven discs may become dis-
torted.
The driven discs are installed backwards, Install new driven discs. Also, check the clutch cover for any damage. Replace
or the front and rear driven discs were the clutch cover if damaged.
switched with each other.
The input shaft spline is worn. Replace the input shaft. Also, check the driven disc hubs for wear. Replace
the driven discs if worn.
The input shaft spline is coated with Clean and dry the input shaft spline before installation.
grease, anti-seize compound, etc.
The input shaft splines are twisted. Select a new driven disc and slide it along the full length of the splines. If the
disc does not slide freely, replace the input shaft.
The input-shaft bearing cap is worn. Replace the input-shaft bearing.
The flywheel pilot bearing fits either too Check the pilot bearing for proper fit and replace it if worn.
tight or too loose in the flywheel and/or
end of input shaft.
The pilot bearing is dry or damaged. Replace the pilot bearing.
The positive separator pins are bent, dam- Be sure to use the proper tool when setting the positive separator pins. Also,
aged or incorrectly set. take great care when handling the intermediate plate. For procedures, see
Subject 130.
Clutch Adjustments
Dimension Definition Specification in inch (mm)
Release Bearing Travel (internal The distance between the release bearing and the
1/2–9/16 (12.7–14.3)
adjustment) clutch brake.
Release Yoke Free-Travel The distance between the release yoke fingers and the
0.105–0.145 (2.7–3.7)
(linkage adjustment) release bearing wear pads.
The movement of the clutch pedal from the time that
Clutch Brake Squeeze (pedal
the clutch brake contacts the release bearing until the 1/2–1 (12.7–25.4)
adjustment)
pedal reaches the end of its stroke.
Table 2, Clutch Adjustments
General Description
The clutch linkage transfers the motion of the clutch
pedal to the clutch release bearing. The clutch link-
age may be adjusted to maintain clutch free pedal,
but only after internal clutch adjustments are made.
Clutch free pedal is required to ensure that the re-
lease bearing does not run against the fingers of the
release yoke. There should not be any play or loose-
ness in the connections and joints of the clutch link-
age.
Adjustment fork and the release bearing, turn the clutch rod
end until the center of the rod-end hole is aligned
with the center of the hole in the upper clutch
IMPORTANT: Observe the following points be- lever.
fore beginning clutch linkage adjustment:
NOTE: Each complete turn of the rod end (or
• Be sure internal clutch adjustments are correct
before making adjustments to the clutch link- rod) equals about 1/32 inch (1 mm) movement.
age. Refer to the appropriate section in this After lengthening the linkage, at least 3/8 inch
manual. (9.5 mm) of thread must remain engaged in
each end of the rod.
• Adjust clutch linkage only after repair or re-
placement of the clutch or clutch linkage com- 10. After adjusting the length, connect the clutch rod
ponents. to the pedal shaft. Install the rod end and nut.
Tighten the nut 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m). See Fig. 3.
• Do not attempt to adjust the linkage to com-
pensate for component wear. Tighten both rod-end jam nuts 12 to 15 lbf·ft (16
• If equipped with cab air-suspension, be sure to 20 N·m).
the air bags are properly inflated. If the air Remove the special tool from the clutch pedal
bags are not inflated, the clutch linkage can’t stop bracket.
be adjusted correctly. For instructions, see
Group 60 in this manual. 11. Install the inspection cover on the bottom of the
bell housing.
IMPORTANT: A special tool is used to adjust the
clutch linkage. The special tool is a 3/4-inch (19-
mm) spacer and may be ordered from the PDCs
under part number 02-12282-000.
1. Tilt the hood.
2. Be sure the clutch pedal is all the way up,
against the upper stop.
3. Remove the clutch inspection cover from the bot-
tom of the bell housing.
4. Measure the distance between the release yoke
and the release bearing. If this measurement is
0.105 to 0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 mm), no further
work is needed. If the measurement is incorrect,
do all of the remaining steps.
5. Loosen the rod-end jam nuts at the upper end of
the threaded adjusting rod.
6. Disconnect the clutch rod from the lower end of
the pedal shaft. See Fig. 1.
7. Place the special tool (part number 02-12282-
000) between the clutch pedal stop bracket and
the clutch pedal. See Fig. 2.
8. Without applying excessive force, pull the clutch
rod forward until it stops (release fork contacts
the release bearing).
9. To obtain a free travel measurement of 0.105 to
0.145 inch (2.7 to 3.7 mm) between the release
1 10
4
3
12
5
8 10
11
7
02/01/2000 f250137a
1. Clutch Pedal 5. Rod-End Jam Nut 9. Clutch Release Shaft
2. Clutch Pedal Shaft 6. Threaded Adjusting Rod 10. Flatwasher
3. Rod End 7. Clutch Rod 11. Spacer
4. Locknut 8. Clutch Release Lever 12. Capscrew
09/05/97 f250445
1. Special Tool
2 3
02/01/2000 f250555
8
3 5 5
3
4
4
2 9
1
02/01/2000 f250305a
1. Clutch Release Fork 4. Shaft Key 7. Clutch Release Lever
2. Right Clutch Release Shaft 5. Capscrew 8. Left Frame Rail
3. Grease Fitting 6. Lower Clutch Rod 9. Left Clutch Release Shaft
3. Remove the capscrew and shaft key from the left 7. Install the transmission. For instructions, refer to
(driver’s side) clutch release shaft. Remove the Group 26 in this manual.
shaft from the mounting holes on the transmis- 8. Wipe dirt from the grease fittings. Using a pres-
sion and the clutch release fork. sure gun, lubricate the clutch release shaft with
4. Insert the right (passenger side) clutch release multipurpose chassis grease.
shaft into the mounting holes on the transmission 9. Check for binding; the clutch release shaft as-
and the clutch release fork. Line up the release sembly should rotate smoothly.
fork with the slot in the release shaft. Install the
Description Torque
Clutch Linkage Jam Nuts 12–15 lbf·ft (16–20 N·m)
Clutch Rod-to-Pedal Shaft 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m)
Table 1, Clutch Linkage Torque Values
General Description and parts are in the pressure plate and cover assembly.
See Fig. 2.
Principles of Operation • The cover is the housing for the diaphragm
spring, adjusting ring, levers, retainer, and the
Meritor clutches ( Fig. 1) are available in 15-1/2 inch
release bearing sleeve. Three holes in the
models in Freightliner trucks. An identification plate is
cover provide air flow to remove heat from the
located on the front cover. Meritor clutches feature
clutch.
the following design characteristics:
• The diaphragm spring is a one-piece unit that
• Two-plate produces the pressure to lock the discs be-
• Diaphragm-spring tween the pressure plate, the center plate, and
the flywheel. The spring is located and held in
• Pull-type
the cover by the retainer.
• Dry-disc
• Six levers connect the cover assembly to the
• Eight-hole installation pattern release bearing sleeve. The levers multiply
Mounted directly on the flywheel, the clutch cover and transfer the force of the diaphragm spring
assembly houses most of the components, including from the retainer to the pressure plate.
the pressure plate. A diaphragm-type spring provides • The adjusting ring, located inside the cover
the force necessary to push the pressure plate for- and in front of the pressure plate, controls the
ward and engage the clutch. The center plate, which release bearing clearance. The clearance must
separates the driven discs, has tabs that fit into slots be adjusted periodically to compensate for
on the clutch cover assembly. clutch lining wear.
A splined transmission input shaft projects through • The pressure plate applies the force from the
the cover assembly and driven discs and rests in a diaphragm spring and locks the clutch discs
pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel. The between the center plate and the flywheel.
splined hubs of the driven discs mesh with the
The clutch discs are splined to allow movement
splined input shaft to transmit power from the engine
along the transmission input shaft. Power is transmit-
to the transmission. The rest of the clutch assembly
ted from the flywheel, pressure plate, and center
can spin freely around the input shaft when the
plate through the discs to the transmission. Damp-
clutch pedal is depressed.
ened ceramic clutch discs absorb vibration with
A clutch brake stops the transmission gears from ro- spring washers, friction material, and co-axial torsion
tating when the truck is stopped and when shifting springs. Ceramic disc linings ( Fig. 3), are made
into first or reverse gears. This lets the gears engage from ceramic and bronze material. Rivets fasten the
quickly without gear clash. ceramic lining to the disc. The ceramic lining pro-
vides positive clutch engagement. The co-axial tor-
The release bearing assembly transfers the move-
sion springs also absorb torque shock during en-
ment of the clutch linkage to engage or disengage
gagement.
the clutch. The release bearing assembly is available
with a grease fitting or as a "lubed for life" assembly. The center plate increases the service life of the
Ball bearings permit the release bearing to rotate clutch by increasing the surface area for power trans-
freely. A coil spring is installed on the sleeve between fer. The 15-1/2 inch clutch center plate is driven by
the release bearing and the hub. The coil spring tabs on the plate which fit into slots on the clutch
holds the sleeve on the retainer in a "ball joint" ar- cover.
rangement. This prevents vibration and allows for
minor misalignment that may occur between the
transmission and the engine due to tolerances be-
tween the mounting surface dimensions.
The pressure plate and cover assembly apply the
force necessary to engage the clutch. The following
4 5
01/08/96
3 f250138
1. Ceramic Discs 4. Release Bearing
2. Center Plate 5. Clutch Brake
3. Pressure Plate and Cover Assembly
2
3
12/11/95 5 f250321
12/07/95 f250320
Clutch Adjustments
NOTE: Clutch linkage adjustment is required
only after repair or replacement of the clutch or
clutch linkage components. Refer to the clutch
linkage section in this manual for procedures.
Internal clutch adjustments should be done when-
ever:
• the clutch is removed or installed A
RELEASE-BEARING CLEARANCE
A B
CHECK
1. Remove the inspection hole cover on the clutch A B
housing.
2. Measure the distance between the end of the 03/26/96 f580133
release bearing and the clutch brake. See Fig. 1.
A. 0.50 inch (12.7 mm)
This distance must be 1/2 to 9/16 inch (12.7 to
B. 0.56 inch (14.3 mm)
14.3 mm).
NOTE: While checking this dimension, pull the Fig. 2, Inspection Tool A02-12419
release bearing toward the transmission, using 3.1 Insert the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end.
your hand or a screwdriver. If it fits loosely the gap is too wide and
adjustment is needed. Go to the next
IMPORTANT: An inspection tool A02–12419 step.
(available through the PDCs) can be used to
check the distance between the release bearing 3.2 If the blue 0.56-inch (14.3-mm) end can’t
and the clutch brake. See Fig. 2. One end of be inserted in the gap, then try to insert
the tool has green tape on it and is 0.50 inch the green 0.50-inch (12.7-mm) end. If the
green end of the tool fits, snug or loose, lever against the notches in the ring,
then no adjustment is needed. move the adjusting ring. See Fig. 4.
When the adjusting ring is moved one
3.3 If the green end of the tool can’t be in- notch, the release bearing will move 1/32
serted in the gap, adjustment is needed. inch (about 0.5 mm).
Go to the next step.
4. If the release bearing clearance is not correct,
adjust the clutch.
4.1 Turn the flywheel so that the lock plate is
seen through the inspection cover. See
Fig. 3.
A B
1
01/02/96 f250244a
1. Lock Plate
Fig. 3, Remove the Lock Plate
01/02/96 f250322
NOTE: Do not use the starter to move the
flywheel. Turn the crankshaft with a socket A. Turn the adjusting ring in this direction to move the
release bearing toward the clutch.
wrench on the front pulley. If the front pulley B. Turn the adjusting ring in this direction to move the
is difficult to turn, use a spanner wrench on release bearing away from the clutch.
the teeth of the flywheel. See the engine 1. Adjusting Ring Tool
manufacturer’s manual for further informa-
tion. Fig. 4, Turning the Adjusting Ring
4.2 Push the clutch pedal to the bottom of its NOTE: The adjusting tool is available from:
travel. Have another person hold the Kent-Moore Tools, part number J 36216;
pedal at the bottom of its travel (or use a Owatonna Tools, part number 7028; or,
block of wood to hold the pedal). Snap-on Tools, part number GA454.
4.3 Remove the capscrew and lockwasher 4.5 Install the lock plate. Install the capscrew
that fasten the lock plate to the clutch that fastens the lock plate to the clutch
cover. See Fig. 3. cover. Tighten the capscrew 25 to 30 lbf·ft
4.4 Turn the adjusting ring to obtain the (34 to 40 N·m).
specified release bearing clearance. Us- 4.6 Release the clutch pedal.
ing a screwdriver or an adjusting tool as a
A B
03/26/96 f580132
A A. 0.105 inch (2.7 mm)
B. 0.145 inch (3.7 mm)
Removal
1. Remove the transmission. Follow the procedures
in Group 26 of this manual.
CAUTION
Do not let the rear of the transmission drop, and
do not let the transmission hang unsupported by
the input shaft in the pilot bearing bore in the fly-
wheel. Taking these precautions will prevent
damage to the clutch assembly and the pilot
bearing.
2. Remove the clutch brake assembly from the
transmission input shaft. See Fig. 1.
1
01/02/96 f250323
1 1. Alignment Tool
A
01/03/96 B f250249a
A. Make sure the splines are not damaged.
01/02/96 f250247a B. Remove the gear assembly from an input shaft.
1. Clutch Brake C. 13 Inches (33 cm)
Fig. 1, Clutch Brake Assembly Removal Fig. 3, Manual Transmission Input Shaft
3. Install a clutch alignment tool through the clutch 5. Make two wooden spacer blocks 1/2 to 5/8 inch
and into the flywheel pilot bearing to support the (13 to 16 mm) thick. Insert them between the
clutch assembly during removal. Use the correct release bearing assembly and the clutch cover.
tool so that the splines of the tool match the The wooden spacer blocks ease removal and
splines in the clutch. See Fig. 2. installation of the clutch. See Fig. 5.
1
WARNING
The pressure plate and cover assembly is heavy
and should be removed only with a lifting device.
If the assembly is lifted improperly or dropped, it
could cause serious personal injury.
6. Connect a lifting device to the pressure plate and
cover assembly because of the weight. See
Fig. 6.
01/04/96 f250324
1. Guide Studs
01/04/96
3 f250328
1. Guide Studs
2. 15-1/2 Inch Clutch Assembly
3. Lifting Device
1 2 3 4
12/07/95 f250332
1. Front Clutch Disc 3. Rear Clutch Disc
2. Center Plate 4. Flywheel Housing
Inspection
A
1. Remove the clutch from the vehicle. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 110.
2. Inspect the release fork and the cross shaft. See
Fig. 1. Make sure the release fork is straight and
the tips of the fork are not worn or damaged. Re-
place forks that are worn or damaged.
Make sure the cross shaft rotates freely and
doesn’t have any side-to-side movement in the
transmission housing. If used, inspect the bush-
ings for the shaft in the housing. Replace any
parts that are worn or damaged. For instructions,
refer to the clutch linkage section in this group.
01/04/96 f250262a
A. The splines must not be worn or damaged.
A
Fig. 2, Input Shaft Splines Inspection
broken. See Fig. 3. If the diaphragm spring is
broken, the clutch cover must be disassembled
to replace the spring.
A
B
01/04/96 f250261a
A. The cross shaft must rotate freely.
B. The tips on the fork must not be worn or damaged.
6. Inspect the pressure plate. 6.4 Make sure the surface of the pressure
plate is flat. Put a straightedge on the
6.1 Visually check the pressure plate for wear
surface of the center plate, making sure it
or damage. See Fig. 4. If the plate is
crosses the center of the plate. See
cracked, replace it. Heat marks are nor- Fig. 6. Using a feeler gauge, measure
mal, and can usually be removed with an
each gap that appears between the
emery cloth. If the heat marks can’t be straightedge and the pressure plate. Ro-
removed, replace the pressure plate.
tate the straightedge through at least four
positions. If any gap is more than 0.004
inch (0.10 mm), replace the pressure
plate.
01/09/96 f250333
Fig. 4, Pressure Plate Inspection 6.5 Measure the runout of the pressure plate
to make sure the surfaces are parallel to
6.2 Put the pressure plate and cover assem- each other. Put marks on a capscrew,
bly on a bench with the plate facing up. strap, and pressure plate location to en-
6.3 Using a caliper, measure any scratches sure that the pressure plate is installed in
or scoring on the pressure plate. See the original position on the cover. Re-
Fig. 5. If the damage to the surface of the move the capscrews that fasten the pres-
sure plate to the strap. Put the pressure
plate is more than 0.015 inch (0.38 mm),
replace the pressure plate. plate on a bench so that the smooth sur-
face is up. Put the base of a dial indicator
inside the center of the plate. See Fig. 7.
Put the tip of the dial indicator on the sur-
face of the plate. Set the dial indicator to
zero. Rotate the dial indicator one com-
plete turn around the surface of the pres-
sure plate. If the reading on the indicator
is more than 0.002 inch (0.05 mm), re-
place the pressure plate.
7. Inspect the clutch discs.
11/02/95 f250331 7.1 Visually check for wear or damage. If any
disc is worn, replace it.
Fig. 5, Measuring Scratches or Scoring on the
Pressure Plate 7.2 Make sure the co-axial springs are not
loose in the hub. See Fig. 8. Springs that
A
2
A
01/05/96 f250270a
A. Pressure plate runout must not be more than 1
0.002 inch (0.05 mm). 02/28/94 f250272a
A. Replace the ceramic disc if the lining is even with
Fig. 7, Dial Indicator Mounting or below the top of the rivet.
rattle are not necessarily loose; springs 1. Rivet
that have any movement are. If any disc 2. Lining
has loose springs, replace it. Fig. 9, Checking the Ceramic Lining
8. Inspect the center plate.
1 2 8.1 Inspect the tabs on the outer edge of the
center plate. See Fig. 10. If the tabs are
worn or damaged, replace the center
plate. If not, go on to the next step and
inspect the center plate.
11/03/95 f250334
1. Hub
2. Co-Axial Spring
8.2 Inspect the center plate for wear or dam- 8.5 Measure the runout of the center plate to
age. If the plate is cracked, replace it. make sure the surfaces are parallel to
Heat marks are normal, and can usually each other. Fig. 13. Put the base of the
be removed with an emery cloth. If the dial indicator inside the center of the
heat marks cannot be removed, replace plate. Put the tip of the dial indicator on
the center plate. the surface of the plate. Set the dial indi-
cator to zero. Rotate the dial indicator
8.3 Using a micrometer or a caliper, measure
one complete turn around the surface of
the thickness of the center plate. The
the center plate. If the reading on the in-
minimum thickness should be 0.742 inch
dicator is more than 0.002 inch (0.05
(18.84 mm). If the center plate measures
mm), grind a new surface on the center
less than the minimum thickness, replace
plate; if not, go on to the next step.
it. See Fig. 11.
A
01/08/96 f250335
CAUTION
Do not clean ground or polished parts in a hot
A solution tank or with water, steam, or alkaline so-
lutions. These solutions will cause the parts to
corrode.
14. Clean the disassembled parts.
01/09/96 f250338 14.1 Using a cleaning solvent or kerosene,
A. Make sure the pilot bearing is not worn or clean all ground or polished parts or sur-
damaged. faces.
Fig. 14, Inspecting the Old Pilot Bearing 14.2 Rough parts can be cleaned with the
ground or polished parts. The rough parts
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service can also be cleaned in hot solution tanks
manual for flywheel service procedures. with a weak alkaline solution. The parts
IMPORTANT: If the flywheel surface is reground, must remain in the tank until they are
make sure there is still adequate thickness for completely cleaned and heated.
the capscrews to hold the clutch to the flywheel. 14.3 Dry the parts with clean paper, shop tow-
The threads for these capscrews are below the els, or compressed air immediately after
surface of some flywheels, requiring the use of cleaning.
capscrews with a shoulder. If some of the fly- 15. Apply lubricant to the cleaned and dried parts
wheel surface is removed, the capscrews may that are not damaged and are to be immediately
not hold. Use new capscrews that are the cor- assembled. Do not apply lubricant to the linings.
rect length.
If parts are to be stored, apply a special material
11. Inspect the ring gear teeth on the outer surface that prevents corrosion and rust to all surfaces.
of the flywheel. If the teeth are worn or dam- Do not apply the material to the linings. Store the
aged, replace the ring gear or the flywheel. Refer parts inside special paper or other material that
to the engine manufacturer’s service manual for prevents corrosion and rust.
instructions.
Check the tabs on the outer edge of the fly-
wheel. Replace the flywheel if the tabs are worn
or damaged.
12. The flywheel surface must be flat for correct
clutch operation. Check the runout of the outer
surface of the flywheel. Refer to the engine
manufacturer’s service manual for instructions.
NOTE: In general, maximum runout is 0.0005
inch times the flywheel diameter in inches.
13. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service
manual for instructions and check the following:
Installation 1
01/05/96 f250339
1. Pilot Bearing
Fig. 1, Pilot Bearing Installation
3. Install 3/8-inch guide studs in two of the upper
mounting holes for the cover and pressure plate
assembly. See Fig. 2. 2
WARNING 01/04/96
3 f250328
5. Install the rear disc in the pressure plate and 7. Install the front disc against the center plate.
cover assembly. Make sure the words PRES- Make sure the words FLYWHEEL SIDE on the
SURE PLATE SIDE on the disc are toward the disc are toward the flywheel. See Fig. 4. Make
pressure plate. See Fig. 4. sure the facings of ceramic clutches are aligned.
3
2
FL
Y WH E E
L
1
4 6
B
12/07/95 f250341
A. Markings must be toward the flywheel.
B. Markings must be toward the pressure plate.
1. Center Plate 4. Cover
2. Rear Clutch Disc 5. Alignment Tool
3. Flywheel Housing 6. Front Clutch Disc
WARNING
1
Tilt the front of the alignment tool up when the
clutch assembly is installed. If the tool is not
tilted up, components will fall off the tool, caus-
ing personal injury and component damage.
9. Using a lifting device, lift the clutch assembly
onto the guide studs. See Fig. 3. Make sure the
alignment tool is installed in the flywheel pilot
bearing.
10. Install the clutch assembly against the flywheel.
Remove the lifting device.
11. Install and hand-tighten the capscrews that fas-
ten the clutch to the flywheel.
12. Remove the guide studs. Install and hand-tighten
the remaining capscrews.
NOTE: When the capscrews are tightened, the
wooden blocks or spacers will fall from between 01/02/96 f250247a
the release bearing and the cover. 1. Clutch Brake
13. Tighten the capscrews to the torque values in Fig. 5, Clutch Brake Installation
Specifications 400.
14. Remove the alignment tool (or the input shaft
used as an alignment tool).
15. If used, install the clutch brake on the transmis-
sion input shaft. Make sure the tabs on the
clutch brake engage the slots on the input shaft.
See Fig. 5.
16. Install the transmission. Follow the procedures in
Group 26 of this manual.
Troubleshooting—Component
Problems
NOTE: Problem entries in the troubleshooting
tables in this subject refer to damage to compo-
nents.
Description Specifications
Actuation Type Pull
Minimum Clutch Housing Size for Mounting SAE Number 2
Pressure Plate Actuation Single Diaphragm Spring
3600 lbf (16 013 N)
Clamp Load
4000 lbf (17 793 N)
Adjustment Manual
Facing Size 15.35 x 8.66 in (390 x 220 mm)
Lining Availability Ceramic
Lining-to-Disc Fastener Rivet
Table 1, General Specifications
Description Specifications
Center Plate Runout 0.000–0.002 inch (0.00–0.05 mm)
Center Plate Flatness 0.000–0.002 inch (0.00–0.05 mm)
Center Plate Minimum Thickness 0.742 inch (18.84 mm)
Center Plate Drive Tabs on Center Plate in Clutch Cover
Table 3, Center Plate Specifications
Description Specifications
Number of Splines on Disc 10
Spline Diameter 2.00 inch (51.0 mm)
Minimum Disc Thickness To Top of Rivet
Table 4, Clutch Disc Specifications
1 2
3
10/09/95 f260319
1. Shift Tower
2. Overslung Crossmember
3. Air Lines
12. Position a transmission jack under the transmis- a Fuller® or Rockwell transmission, install the
sion, and raise its support plate against the bot- smaller face toward the transmission.
tom of the transmission. Adjust the support plate
to the same angle as the bottom of the transmis- 3. Check for wear on the fingers of the clutch re-
sion. lease yoke, release shafts, and the release shaft
bushings. Replace any worn parts as necessary.
13. Raise the transmission jack until it fits securely
against the bottom of the transmission, then se- 4. Shift the transmission into gear, so that the trans-
cure the transmission to the jack with a chain. mission input shaft can be rotated during assem-
bly, to line it up with the clutch driven-disc hub
14. Remove the flywheel-housing-to-clutch-housing splines.
attachment bolts. Keep the flange of the clutch
housing parallel (all the way around) to the
flange of the flywheel housing, until the input WARNING
shaft is clear of the clutch. After lifting the front end of the vehicle, do not
get under the vehicle until it is securely sup-
NOTICE ported by vehicle stands. If the vehicle is sup-
ported only by an axle jack, the vehicle can fall,
Do not let the rear of the transmission drop, and resulting in personal injury or property damage.
do not let the transmission hang unsupported in
the splined hubs of the clutch discs. Taking 5. If the vehicle is not already raised and supported
these precautions will prevent damage to the on stands, raise the front of the vehicle high
clutch discs. enough that you can move the transmission into
position by rolling it in from behind the front tire.
15. Pull the transmission and jack straight back, until
the transmission input shaft is clear of the clutch 6. Raise the vehicle enough to remove the vehicle
and the engine flywheel housing. Lower the stands. Remove the stands, and lower the ve-
transmission. See Fig. 3. hicle to the ground.
7. Roll the transmission and jack into alignment be-
WARNING hind the engine. Raise the transmission jack sup-
port plate until the flange of the clutch housing is
After lifting the front end of the vehicle, do not parallel (all the way around) to the flange of the
get under the vehicle until it is securely sup- flywheel housing. Align the transmission input
ported by vehicle stands. If the vehicle is sup- shaft with the hole in the release bearing sleeve.
ported only by an axle jack, the vehicle can fall, See Fig. 5.
resulting in personal injury or property damage.
NOTE: If necessary, wipe the input shaft clean
16. Raise the front axle of the vehicle high enough with a clean, dry cloth. It is not necessary to
that you can remove the transmission by rolling it lubricate the input shaft.
out behind the front tire.
8. Push the transmission and jack straight forward,
while making sure the flanges remain parallel,
Installation until the transmission input shaft begins to enter
the clutch release bearing.
1. If not already done, apply the parking brakes,
chock the tires, and tilt the hood. 9. Rotate the top of the clutch release yoke rear-
ward, and rotate the release bearing until the flat
2. If the clutch brake was removed, install the portion is at the top. Roll the transmission slowly
clutch brake on the transmission input shaft. See forward. Raise or lower the transmission as re-
Fig. 4. Slide it tight against the input shaft bear- quired to maintain alignment.
ing cap.
IMPORTANT: Be sure that the release yoke
NOTE: Torque-limiting clutch brakes are a one- clears the release bearing, and is rotated over
piece assembly with a larger and a smaller face. the wear pads as the transmission is moved
When installing a torque-limiting clutch brake on forward. See Fig. 6. Align the input shaft splines
10/07/95 f260318
with the clutch disc splines by turning the trans- 11. Remove the chain that secures the transmission
mission output shaft. to the jack, and remove the jack from under the
vehicle.
NOTICE 12. Install or connect the shift linkage.
Use care to avoid springing the drive discs when 12.1 Install the shift tower inside the cab.
the transmission is being installed. Do not force 12.2 Install the air lines and shift boot.
the transmission into the clutch or flywheel hous-
ing if it does not enter freely. Do not let the trans- 12.3 Install the electrical connectors on the top
mission drop or hang unsupported in the driven of the transmission.
discs. These practices can damage the clutch 13. Connect the air lines and wiring to the transmis-
assembly. sion as previously marked.
10. Push the transmission forward until the clutch 14. Connect the clutch rod to the clutch release
housing pilot flange enters the flywheel housing lever. For instructions, see Section 25.00.
pilot bore. Install the flywheel-housing-to-clutch-
housing attachment capscrews, and using a 15. Connect the driveline to the transmission output
crisscross pattern, tighten them finger-tight. yoke. For instructions, see Section 41.00.
Then, using the same crisscross pattern, tighten 16. Connect the midship bearing to the midship
the capscrews either 43 to 53 lbf·ft (58 to 72 bearing bracket. For instructions, see Sec-
N·m) for Patch-Lok capscrews, or 38 to 45 lbf·ft tion 41.00.
(52 to 61 N·m) for non-locking capscrews with
lockwashers. 17. Connect the EquiFlo bracket to the top of the
transmission. Open the fuel shut-off valves or fill
the fuel tanks as applicable.
B C
2
08/05/2010 f250678
A. Cross section of clutch brake
B. Install deep side toward release bearing
C. Install shallow side toward the transmission
1. Clutch Brake
2. Input Shaft
18. Install the transmission fluid cooler and all the 23. Start the engine and run it long enough to pres-
plug fittings in the cooler and transmission. See surize the air system to at least 80 psi (550 kPa).
Fig. 1. Lower the hood, and remove the chocks from the
tires.
19. Install the air reservoirs on the vehicle. For in-
structions, see Section 42.06.
20. Connect the batteries.
21. Grease the clutch release bearing and the re-
lease shafts. For instructions, see the Group 25
of the Columbia Maintenance Manual.
22. Check the clutch and clutch linkage for proper
clutch pedal free-travel and clutch brake opera-
tion. For instructions, refer to the vehicle driver’s
manual.
To adjust the clutch, see Section 25.00.
2
1
10/06/95 f250310
1. Clutch
2. Flywheel Housing
3. Release Bearing
03/01/94 f250035a
General Information 5 6
7
The SmartShift™ transmission shift control is an elec- 4
3 8
tronic transmission control device. It is required with
the following automated transmissions:
• Eaton® Fuller® UltraShift™
9
• Eaton Fuller UltraShift™ PLUS 1
2
• Eaton Fuller AutoShift™ 10
• ZF Meritor™ FreedomLine™ 11
11/11/2002 f270080
• Meritor™ SureShift™
To upshift manually, pull the lever up (towards you). To
There are three versions of the control: downshift manually, push the lever down (away from
• See Fig. 1 for the UltraShift, UltraShift PLUS, you).
and AutoShift control. 1. SmartShift Control Lever
2. Slide Switch (forward driving mode switch)
• See Fig. 2 for the FreedomLine control. 3. MAN Mode (of slide switch)
4. AUTO Mode (of slide switch)
• See Fig. 3 for the SureShift control.
5. Upshift Direction
6. Reverse Position (of selector switch)
5 6 7. Selector Switch
7
8. Neutral Lock Button
4 8 9. Neutral Position (of selector switch)
3
10. Drive Position (of selector switch)
11. Downshift Direction
6
is marked "R-N-F" (older models) or "R-N-D"
7 (newer models). See Fig. 3.
11/23/99 f270081
For UltraShift, UltraShift PLUS, and FreedomLine,
To upshift manually, pull the lever up (towards you). To embedded in the selector switch is a small neutral
downshift manually, push the lever down (away from lock button to prevent accidental shifts into gear from
you). neutral. Any time you shift through N, press down on
NOTE: Shown without neutral lock button. Newer Sure- the neutral lock button to move the switch from neu-
Shift models have a "D" (for drive) in place of the "F" tral (N) to another gear. When shifting to N, it is not
(for forward). necessary to press the neutral lock button. For Auto-
1. SmartShift Control Lever Shift and SureShift, all models built after November
2. Upshift Direction 2002 have the neutral lock button.
3. Reverse Position (of selector switch)
4. Selector Switch
5. Neutral Position (of selector switch)
6. Forward Position (of selector switch)
7. Downshift Direction
2
1
3
4
01/29/2003 f270121
1. Upshift (in manual mode, pull upward)
2. Steering Wheel
3. Downshift (in manual mode, push downward)
4. Steering Column
Replacement 5
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires.
2. Remove the screws that secure the steering col-
umn trim panels, and separate the forward and 1 2
rear panels to access the shift control. See
3
Fig. 1.
4
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the plug
on the shift control unit. See Fig. 2.
4. Remove the three bolts that secure the control
lever to the bracket on the column. 07/23/99 f270066
1. Steering Wheel
5. Remove the control lever.
2. Control Lever Bracket
6. Place the new lever into position and secure it 3. Nuts and Bolts
using the nuts and bolts previously removed. 4. Electrical Connector
5. Control Lever
7. Connect the electrical connector to the control
lever. Fig. 2, SmartShift Control Lever Installation
8. Using the screws previously removed, fasten the
upper and lower column panels.
07/23/99 f270067
1. Steering Column Panel Capscrews
2. SmartShift Control Lever
General Information 5 6 7
The following information is provided to help deter- 4 8
3
mine whether a problem is with the transmission or
the SmartShift® Transmission Shift Control.
Resistance checks at the SmartShift connector can
help determine connection problems. 9
1
DataLink Software can be used to test the SmartShift 2
10
control. The tests require a ServiceLink computer 11
connected to the vehicle. If the tests confirm the shift 12
control is defective, this subject also includes con- 01/24/2003 f270120
nector resistance checks to rule out wiring issues. 1. SmartShift Control Lever
2. Slide Switch (forward driving mode switch)
Follow the procedures below for resistance checking
3. MAN Mode (of slide switch)
and Freightliner SmartShift testing using DataLink 4. AUTO Mode (of slide switch)
Monitor and dash displays. 5. Upshift Direction
To determine which transmission is installed on the 6. Reverse Position (of selector switch)
vehicle, check the shift pattern decal on the dash or 7. Selector Switch
8. Neutral Lock Button
visor.
9. Neutral Position (of selector switch)
NOTE: SmartShift controls designed for one 10. Drive Position (of selector switch)
transmission model should not be used with 11. Low Position (of selector switch)
12. Downshift Direction
other models of transmission.
For Eaton Fuller UltraShift, UltraShift PLUS, and Au- Fig. 1, SmartShift Control (with Eaton Fuller UltraShift,
toShift, the four-position selector switch is marked UltraShift PLUS, and AutoShift)
"R-N-D-L". A slide switch is present. See Fig. 1.
For Meritor SureShift, the three-position selector 2 3
switch is marked "R-N-F" (older models) or "R-N-D"
4
(newer models). In addition, there is no slide switch.
See Fig. 2. SHIFT
UP
PULL
7
11/23/99 f270081
NOTE: Shown without neutral lock button. Newer Sure-
Shift models have a "D" (for drive) in place of the "F"
(for forward).
1. SmartShift Control Lever
2. Upshift Direction
3. Reverse Position (of selector switch)
4. Selector Switch
5. Neutral Position (of selector switch)
6. Forward Position (of selector switch)
7. Downshift Direction
5
2. Remove the screws that secure the steering col-
6 umn trim panels, and separate the forward and
7
4 rear panels to access the shift control. See
3 8 Fig. 4.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the plug
on the shift control unit. See Fig. 5.
9
1
2
10
11
11/11/2002 f270080 2
1. SmartShift Control Lever
2. Slide Switch (forward driving mode switch)
3. MAN Mode (of slide switch)
4. AUTO Mode (of slide switch)
5. Upshift Direction
6. Reverse Position (of selector switch)
7. Selector Switch
8. Neutral Lock Button
9. Neutral Position (of selector switch)
10. Drive Position (of selector switch)
11. Downshift Direction
A
2
3 2
01/24/2007 f261387
1. Shift Control
2. Steering Wheel
3. Electrical Connector
05/16/2002 f270075
A. Plug the newly assembled wire extension into the
plug on the shift control unit.
1. Shift Control Unit
2. Digital Multimeter (set to ohms)
3. Metri-Pack Terminals (at wire ends)
C
B Fig. 7, Resistance Checking at Shift Control
A
Resistance on SmartShift Controls at B and C
11/08/2005 f261085a
(Except Meritor SureShift)
Fig. 6, SmartShift Terminal Positions Selector Switch Position Reading: kOhm
R 2.947–3.067
6. Check the resistance at the other end of the
wires. See Fig. 7. N 0.347–0.361
Resistance on SmartShift Controls at A and C NOTE: The DLM template for the SureShift
(Except Meritor SureShift) transmission will not work with the ZF Meritor
Slide Switch + Lever FreedomLine transmission. For further diagnos-
Reading: kOhm tic assistance on FreedomLine transmissions,
Position
Manual 2.865–2.981
use Meritor’s TransSoft software.
Manual + Up 0.531–0.553 6. Go directly to the appropriate heading in this
subject, "SmartShift Control Testing for Eaton
Manual + Down 1.150–1.197 AutoShift" or "SmartShift Control Testing for Meri-
Auto 11.27–11.73 tor SureShift and FreedomLine".
Table 3, Resistance on SmartShift Controls at A and
C (Except Meritor SureShift) SmartShift Control Testing for
Eaton AutoShift
Resistance on the SmartShift Control, Meritor The AutoShift DataLink Monitor template (see Fig. 8)
SureShift will display the current vehicle status and will reflect
Selector Switch + Lever change in status. Vehicle information is retrieved
Reading: kOhm
Position from the transmission ECU on the datalink. The
R 10.2–10.6 monitor can also be used to verify readings on the
instrument panel.
N 1.65–1.71
NOTE: To test the shift control using the
F or D 2.65–2.75
datalink, the vehicle can be placed into a mode
R + Up 4.14–4.3 that allows the gears to be shifted without the
R + Down 6.07–6.31 engine running. The following step explains how
Table 4, Resistance on SmartShift Controls at A and to enter that mode.
C (Meritor SureShift) 1. Turn the ignition OFF, then turn the ignition back
ON, but don’t start the engine. The transmission
7. After checking the resistance, unplug the wire controller will still be in the Engine ON mode,
extension, and reconnect the electrical connec- thereby allowing the gears to be shifted.
tor. 2. Test the operation of the shift control for Reverse
8. Install the steering column trim panels. (R) and Neutral (N), as follows.
2.1 Select R on the selector switch. In the
SmartShift Control Checking Range Selected field of the template an R
should be displayed.
Using DataLink Monitor (DLM)
2.2 Select N on the selector switch. In the
1. With the wheels chocked, start the engine. Range Selected field of the template an N
should be displayed.
2. Connect the service computer to the engine and
start ServiceLink. 3. Test the operation of the shift control for Drive
(D), as follows.
3. Click on the Transmission icon on the left
screen. 3.1 Select D on the selector switch and move
the slide switch (reading "MAN/AUTO") to
4. Click on the Templates tab. An overview of AUTO. In the Range Selected field of the
available templates will be shown. template, a D should be displayed.
5. If the vehicle is equipped with Eaton Fuller Auto-
3.2 With the selector switch still on D, toggle
Shift, UltraShift, or UltraShift PLUS, click on
the slide switch from AUTO to MAN and
Eaton AutoShift. If the vehicle is equipped with
back. Confirm that the Range Selected
Meritor SureShift, click on ZF Meritor SureShift.
field shows a D while in AUTO and an H
(High) while in MAN.
10/17/2013 f120266
10/17/2013 f120276
Accelerator Pedal Assembly tor only one pole. When the accelerator pedal returns
to idle, the IVS moves to the "idle" position to signal
the engine that the pedal has returned to idle. The
The Williams electronic suspended accelerator pedal
IVS is not a serviceable part. If the IVS malfunctions,
provides an electrical signal to the engine in re-
the sensor must be replaced.
sponse to the driver’s demand for more engine
power. The accelerator pedal converts downward
pressure into an electrical signal via the pedal posi-
tion sensor.
11/18/2008 f300423
NOTE: Washers not shown
1. Fastener (4 qty.)
2. Pedal Position Sensor
Installation
1. Align the accelerator pedal assembly with the
mounting holes on the inside of the bulkhead.
2. Install the pedal assembly mounting fasteners
and tighten them 7 to 12 lbf·ft (9 to 16 N·m).
3. Connect the pedal position sensor wiring har-
ness.
4. Depress the accelerator pedal several times and
ensure that the pedal does not stick or bind.
NOTE: In some vehicles, the accelerator pedal
design may result in interference with floor insu-
1 2 3 4
11/18/2008 f300424
1. Accelerator Pedal Assembly
2. Pinion Gear
3. Pedal Position Sensor
4. Mounting Screws
Complete the following procedures to diagnose ac- ing. Sensor replacement will strip the threads,
celerator pedal assembly and pedal position sensor so the entire pedal assembly must be replaced
problems. when a new sensor is needed. See Sub-
ject 100 for instructions on replacing the entire
Common Problems and pedal assembly.
Indications 1. Connect the vehicle to the appropriate diagnostic
software tool. See Table 1 for a list of diagnostic
The accelerator pedal assembly was designed so software tools for each engine.
that the pedal position sensor will not reach the inter-
nal stop points when it is mounted to the pedal as- Diagnostic Software Tools
sembly. Attempting to modify the sensor or forcing Engine
the sensor shaft beyond the internal stop points will Software Tool
Manufacturer
result in severe damage to the sensor.
Caterpillar Electronic Technician (CAT
A number of symptoms may be reported that can Caterpillar
ET)
indicate a problem with the accelerator pedal, pedal Cummins INSITE
position sensor, or wiring to the engine, including:
Detroit Diesel Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
• low power or poor acceleration
Mercedes-Benz Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link
• slow deceleration
Table 1, Diagnostic Software Tools
• vehicle does not reach top speed
• engine is stuck at idle 2. Make a note of the signal values at idle. See
• engine brake does not function Table 2 for the correct signal values.
• check engine light comes on NOTE: All desired signal values are approxi-
mate. Each individual vehicle and electrical sys-
• engine fault code indicates a pedal position
sensor problem
tem will exhibit some variation in signal values.
The engine control system compensates for this
A thorough diagnosis of the entire sensor system variation. These diagnostic procedures are de-
must be performed to ensure that a pedal position signed to identify malfunctioning components of
sensor is faulty. Symptoms may disappear when the the pedal assembly and electrical system.
pedal position sensor is replaced even if the sensor
is not faulty. 3. Slowly depress the accelerator pedal and moni-
tor the signals.
NOTE: In some vehicles, the accelerator pedal
design may result in interference with floor insu- NOTE: There is a short time delay between
lation. If the pedal position sensor signal does pedal movement and display of the correspond-
not reach 100%, check to see if the accelerator ing data.
pedal bridge is preventing full travel. If the pedal 4. Make a note of all signal values when the pedal
bridge prevents full travel, trim approximately 2 has been pressed halfway.
inches (5 cm) off the pedal bridge and round off 5. Make a note of all signal values at full throttle.
the lower edge to prevent the bridge from catch-
ing on the floor mat. 6. Verify idle validation signal (IVS) inputs, if
equipped.
Diagnostics NOTE: The pedal position sensor used with Cat-
erpillar engines is a pulse-width modulated
IMPORTANT: Vehicles manufactured on or after (PWM) sensor. It cannot be diagnosed using a
July 2, 2007, do not have replaceable sensors. digital multimeter set to measure voltage or re-
The new pedal assemblies use thread-forming
screws to mount the sensor to the pedal hous-
sistance. A multimeter capable of measuring 7.2 Disconnect the connector nearest the
"duty cycle" may be used to view the sensor pedal and measure the voltage supply.
output. 8. If a 5-volt supply is not present, look for a fault in
The pedal position sensor used with EPA07 the circuit between the pedal and the common
Cummins engines uses Hall effect technology. powertrain controller (Detroit Diesel and
Mercedes-Benz) or the motor control module
Attempting to measure resistance across the (Caterpillar and Cummins engines).
sensor will not provide valid results and may
damage the sensor. 9. Inspect and ensure that all connector pins at the
pedal position sensor, frontwall, and the engine
7. If any signal does not change, measure the sen- controller are free of corrosion and are not bent
sor voltage supply and ground circuits with a or damaged. Inspect and ensure that the con-
digital multimeter as follows. nections between the pins and the wires are se-
7.1 Use EZWiring™ in ServicePro to identify cure and also free of corrosion.
the circuit(s) that supply voltage to the 10. If the problem has not been resolved, the prob-
pedal position sensor. lem is not with the pedal position sensor. See the
IMPORTANT: The ignition key must be in the engine manufacturer’s service literature for fur-
ther guidance.
ON position.
3
5
11/22/95 f310505
1. Front Crossmember 3. Overslung Crossmember 5. Upper Flange
2. Lower Flange 4. Frame Crossmembers 6. Frame Rail Web
The frame rails are made of steel, and both have from which the location of each component mounted
identical specifications. Each rail has an upper on the frame rail is measured. There are two frame
flange, lower flange, and web (the surface area be- stations on the frame rails: station zero (usually writ-
tween the flanges). The inside area of the frame rail ten as 0.00"); and station 1150.
is called the channel. See Fig. 2.
2.38"
(60mm)
45−1/4" (1150 mm)
A B
01/05/2000 f310506
A. Station Zero (0.00) B. Station 1150
1. Most Forward Edge of the Frame Rail
2. Station 1150 Mark
Repairing Cracks
IMPORTANT: Daimler Trucks North America
LLC recommends that cracked or damaged
frame rails be replaced. However, in some
cases it may be necessary to repair minor dam- A
age. Before attempting any repairs, contact your
regional service representative for approval.
CAUTION
1
Before performing any electric welding on a ve-
hicle, read and understand the welding precau- 09/19/2003 f310012c
tions in Subject 110. Disconnect the battery
power and ground cables and any electronic con- A. 1/8-inch (3-mm) Diameter Hole
trol units (ECUs) installed on the vehicle. Electric 1. Crack
currents produced during electric welding can
damage various electrical components on the ve- Fig. 1, Preventing Cracks from Spreading
hicle, such as alternator diodes and ECUs.
Freightliner vehicle components that typically
use ECUs include electronic engine, electronic A
automatic transmission, and ABS (antilock brak-
ing system).
For any ECU with a battery power harness, dis-
connect its ground terminal from the chassis
ground, and disconnect its power terminal from
the battery positive post, or disconnect the main
connection at the ECU.
B
1. Drill a 1/8-inch (3-mm) diameter hole at each end
of the crack to prevent further spreading of the
crack. See Fig. 1. 1
2. Grind a V-shaped groove along the crack to a
depth of two-thirds of the stock thickness. See
Fig. 2.
NOTE: The crack repair includes grinding a
groove on each side of the frame rail. If it is not 08/14/95 f310013a
possible to grind both sides of the rail, then A. Frame Rail Thickness
grind the groove on one side to the full depth of B. Grind V-groove to 2/3 depth of stock thickness.
the stock thickness. See Fig. 3. 1. Crack
3. Clamp a copper or aluminum bar on the opposite
side of the groove. The bar will act as a "chill" Fig. 2, Frame Rail Cross-Section
strip, keeping the heat from spreading to the sur- 5. Grind the weld flush with the frame rail. See
rounding area of the frame rail. See Fig. 4. Fig. 5.
4. Using the applicable welding method described 6. Cut a deep enough V-groove on the opposite
in Subject 110, deposit the weld material in the side of the frame rail to reach the weld metal.
groove. See Fig. 6.
A A
1 B
08/15/95 f310016a
08/14/95 f310014a
A. Frame Rail Thickness
A. Frame Rail Thickness B. Grind weld flush with frame rail.
1. V-Groove (Full Depth) 1. Crack
Fig. 3, Full Depth Groove Fig. 5, Weld Ground Flush
A A
B
C
08/15/95 f310017a
08/14/95 f310015a
A. Frame Rail Thickness A. Frame Rail Thickness
B. Clamp the "chill" strip on opposite side of groove. B. Grind V-groove deep enough to reach weld.
C. Deposit weld material.
Fig. 6, Cross-Section View
1. Crack
7. Clamp the "chill" strip on the opposite side of the
Fig. 4, Using a Chill Strip groove. See Fig. 7. Weld the V-groove; make full
penetration of the weld.
Drilling Holes
During vehicle manufacture, holes are drilled or
punched in the frame rail only as specified on the
08/15/95 f310018a vehicle frame drilling chart. If any additional holes
A. Frame Rail Thickness need to be drilled, contact your regional service rep-
B. Deposit weld material to penetrate opposite weld. resentative for approval.
C. Clamp the "chill" strip on opposite side of groove.
A single exception to this rule is that holes may be
Fig. 7, Second Weld drilled for tubing clips and the like through the web
portion of the channel only, with the following restric-
8. Grind the weld flush with the frame rail. See tions:
Fig. 8.
• The edge (not the center) of the hole must be
no closer than 1-11/32 inches (34 mm) from
the outer face of the flange. See Fig. 9 for the
A minimum distance to the flanges that holes can
be placed on the web.
• Material between the centerline of the hole and
the outside of the upper or lower flange must
be at least 2-13/32 inches (60 mm).
• Minimum material between hole centerlines
B must be 2 inches (50 mm).
• All attaching fasteners must be Grade 8. Flat
washers must be made with high strength
steel.
• The minimum material between the rear sus-
pension bracket and the end of the frame must
be at least 2 inches (50 mm).
10/12/94 f310019a
• Holes between the front axle centerline and the
rear axle centerline cannot exceed 3/4 inches
A. Frame Rail Thickness (19 mm).
B. Grind weld flush with frame rail.
08/14/95 f310020a
A. 1-11/32 inches (34 mm)
Safety Precautions 1. Park the vehicle, shut down the engine, and set
the parking brake. Chock the front and rear tires.
IMPORTANT: Only experienced, qualified per- 2. Open the hood.
sons using proper equipment should attempt 3. Disconnect the batteries. Attach the welding
welding the frame rails. ground strap as close to the work being done as
safely possible.
CAUTION 4. Disconnect the engine electronic control unit and
Before performing any electric welding on a ve- all other electronic devices. See Table 1 for the
hicle, disconnect the battery power and ground location of each device.
cable, and any electronic control units or similar
devices installed on the vehicle. Electric currents
produced during electric welding can damage
various electrical components on the vehicle,
which could result in malfunction of the compo-
nents.
Welding Requirements • Do not weld square with the frame side rail.
Make all reinforcing welds at least 30 degrees
from square. This will distribute the weld
IMPORTANT: Before welding anything on a stresses over a larger area.
frame rail, contact your regional service repre-
sentative for approval. There are very few cases • Do not notch, undercut, or leave craters during
in which welding a heat-treated frame rail is al- the welding process.
lowable. If possible, avoid direct welding of the • Keep as close to the weld centerline as pos-
frame rail web. sible.
• Do not weld attachments to the frame rail. For • Use weld wire that meets American Welding
guidelines on the attachment of equipment on Society (AWS) specification A 5.28, Class
the frame rails, refer elsewhere in this group. E110S.
• Use only the applicable welding method under • Use Linde M-5 gas or an equivalent argon-
"Welding Methods." oxygen mixture of 5 percent oxygen.
• Before welding, clean off any oil, grease, paint, • For machine settings, see Specifica-
scale, and other contaminants. Wipe dry with a tions, 400.
clean cloth.
COATED-ELECTRODE ARC
• Do not weld in an area that allows drafts from
any source such as windows, engines, or fans, WELDING
as it will affect the soft flow of gas from the For the coated-electrode arc welding method:
welding gun.
• Use 1/8-inch-thick AWS-E-11018 type weld
• Do not weld into the radius of the frame rail rod.
flanges or along the edge of the flange.
• For amperage and voltage settings of each to the atmosphere longer than one-half hour
weld position, see Specifications, 400.
05/28/97 f541486a
05/28/97 f541521a
05/28/97 f541475a
11/27/95 f541107
1. Data Logging Unit
2. Auxiliary Power Distribution Module
3. ABS ECU
Lengthening Frame Rails bare steel wire between the extension and
frame rail. The wire sections must be short
Steel frame rails can be lengthened by welding an enough to be completely fused by the welding
extension onto the rear of the frame rail. The end of process.
the frame rail and the extension piece are cut so that
they overlap each other. Obtain approval from your CAUTION
regional service representative before welding and
lengthening the frame rail. Weld the web area first, making sure that the
flanges do not contact each other. Residual
CAUTION stresses will occur in the weld if the web area is
not welded first, or if the flanges contact each
Before performing any electric welding on a ve- other when welding the web.
hicle, read and understand the welding precau-
4. Using one of the methods in Subject 110, weld
tions in Subject 110. Disconnect the battery
the extension to the frame rail, making full pen-
power, ground cables, and any electronic control
etration. See Fig. 4. Weld the web area first,
units (ECUs) installed on the vehicle. Electric cur-
then the flange, working from the inside of the
rents produced during electric welding can dam-
channel. When welding the web, make sure that
age various electrical components on the vehicle,
the flanges do not contact each other.
such as alternator diodes and ECUs.
Freightliner vehicle components that typically Remove any slag between passes and back-
use ECUs include electronic engine, electronic gouge the root of the first vee before welding the
automatic transmission, and ABS (antilock brak- other side.
ing system).
For any ECU with a battery power harness, dis- CAUTION
connect its ground terminal from the chassis
Do not "hollow grind" the weld. Small depres-
ground, and disconnect its power terminal from
sions from improper grinding of the weld will re-
the battery positive post. Or else disconnect the
duce the strength of the frame rail.
main connection at the ECU.
5. When finished welding, sand the joint for appear-
1. Cut the frame-rail end and extension to the appli-
ance. Hold the sander so that the grind runs par-
cable dimensions. See Fig. 1 for truck dimen-
allel with the length of the frame rail.
sions, or Fig. 2 for tractor dimensions. Refer only
to the figure that relates to the vehicle being
modified.
NOTE: If the length of the extension is to be 6
inches (152 mm) or less, then straight-cut the
frame rail end and extension.
2. Grind the cut ends of the frame rail and exten-
sion to the dimensions in Fig. 3.
3. Align the cut ends of the extension piece with the
cut ends of the frame rail so that there is a 1/16-
to 1/8-inch (1.5- to 3-mm) gap between them.
See Fig. 3. Using a torch, heat the cut ends to
70°F (21°C), if necessary, before welding.
NOTE: A 1/16-inch (1.6-mm) gap is recom-
mended. The ends must not contact each other.
Maintain the joint spacing by placing a short
piece of clean, 1/16-inch (1.6-mm) diameter
1 2
30°
A
B
3
45° A
4 A
30°
B
D
Fig. 1, Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions for Truck Vehicles
D
B
30°
1 A
C 2
A 45°
3
B
4 A
30°
Fig. 2, Frame Rail and Extension Cutting Dimensions for Tractor Vehicles
60°
A B
A B C
10/12/94 D f310026a
A. Frame Rail Thickness
B. First Weld
C. Extension Thickness
D. Second weld penetrates the first weld.
Overslung Crossmember
IMPORTANT: To improve access while removing
the top crossmember bolt on the left-hand side 5
of the vehicle, have an assistant hold the clutch 4
pedal to the floor.
1. From underneath the chassis, remove the 5/8–11
bolts and nuts that hold each side of the cross- 2
member to the mounting brackets. See Fig. 1.
2. Remove the overslung crossmember by rotating 1
it down and outward on the right-hand side of the
vehicle.
6
Front Closing Crossmember, 05/24/2006 f311014
1. Front Closing Crossmember
Models with Bolt-On Front Frame 2. Tow Device Housing, RH
3. Bolt-On Frame Bracket, RH
1. Remove the bumper. See Section 31.03, Sub- 4. Engine Crossmember
ject 110. 5. Bolt-On Frame Bracket, LH
2. Remove the hood. See Section 88.00, Sub- 6. Tow Device Housing, LH
ject 100.
Fig. 2, Bolt-On Front Frame and Front Closing
Crossmember
5. Drain the air system. 3. If it was removed from the channel crossmem-
ber, install the relay valve or quick-release valve
6. If necessary to make room for a jack stand, re-
on the crossmember. Securely tighten the fasten-
move the primary air tank.
ers.
7. Place a jack under the front axle, and lift the ve-
4. Install any clamps that attach air lines or wiring
hicle until a jack stand can be properly situated
to the crossmember.
under each frame rail.
5. If equipped, attach the suspension torque rod
8. Place a jack stand under each frame rail, and lift
bracket(s) to the crossmember. Be sure the
the vehicle until the front tires clear the ground
spacers are installed in the same location noted
and an engine stand can be conveniently in-
during removal.
stalled.
9. Remove the jack from under the front axle. Tighten the fasteners to the applicable torque
value. See Specifications, 400.
10. Install an engine stand. Remove capscrews and
brackets as needed. 6. Install the fifth wheel, if it was removed. Follow
the installation instructions in the applicable fifth
11. Place a jack under the engine stand, and raise wheel section in this manual. Tighten the fasten-
the jack until it’s supporting the engine. ers that attach the channel crossmember gussets
12. Cut the tie straps that attach the wiring har- to the frame rails, then tighten the fasteners that
nesses to the bolt-on frame brackets, and pass attach the crossmember to the gussets.
the harnesses through the holes in the bolt-on Tighten the fasteners to the applicable torque
frame brackets. See Fig. 2. value. See Specifications, 400.
IMPORTANT: When removing the fuel filter/
separator from the bolt-on frame bracket, do not Rear-Closing Crossmember
allow it to dangle. 1. If they were removed, install the forwardmost
13. Remove the capscrews that attach the fuel filter/ angle brackets, but do not tighten the fasteners
separator assembly to the left bolt-on frame at this time. If the rear spring brackets attach to
bracket, and secure the fuel filter/separator with the frame rails with the same fasteners that at-
tie straps to the charge air cooler tube. tach the angle brackets, install the rear spring
brackets at this time. Then, remove the safety
14. Remove the capscrews that attach the bolt-on stands from under the frame rails. Be sure to
frame brackets to the frame rails and suspen- install each bolt in the same direction that was
sion. Remove the bolt-on frame brackets. noted during removal.
2. Slide the crossmember into the opening at the
Installation rear of the frame rails, then turn it upright to po-
sition it against the angle brackets.
Channel Crossmember 3. Attach the rearmost angle brackets to the frame
1. If equipped, position the correct thickness of rails, but do not tighten the fasteners at this time.
frame spacer in each channel of the frame. 4. Install but do not tighten the fasteners that attach
If they were removed, install the upper and lower the crossmember to the angle brackets.
gussets in both sides of the frame, but do not 5. Install the rear mud flap brackets. Tighten the
tighten the fasteners at this time. Be sure to in- fasteners to the applicable torque value. See
stall each bolt in the same direction that was Specifications, 400.
noted during removal.
6. If it was removed from the rear-closing cross-
2. Work the channel crossmember into the top or member, install the relay valve or quick-release
bottom of the frame, then work it into position in valve on the crossmember. Securely tighten the
the gussets. Install the fasteners that attach the fasteners.
crossmember to the gussets, but do not tighten
them at this time.
7. Install the taillights on the rear-closing cross- 1. Attach one new upper gusset to the crossmem-
member. If equipped, install the backup alarm. ber channel. Tighten the fasteners snugly, but
not to their final torque value.
8. Install any clamps that attach air lines or wiring
to the crossmember. 2. Place the crossmember channel and gusset in
the frame rails with the channel opening facing
9. Tighten the fasteners that attach the angle
the same direction as the original crossmember.
brackets to the frame rails, then tighten the fas-
Position the crossmember so its channel is rest-
teners that attach the crossmember to the angle
brackets. ing on the lower flanges of both frame rails.
3. Slide the other upper gusset into position and
Tighten the fasteners to the applicable torque attach it to the crossmember channel. Tighten
value. See Specifications, 400.
the fasteners snugly, but not to their final torque
value.
Five-Piece Bolted Crossmember
4. With the crossmember channel still resting on
NOTE: Five-piece bolted crossmember assem- the lower flanges of both frame rails, tighten the
blies are available as service parts to replace locknuts on the button-head capscrews at the
some five-piece welded crossmembers. See outboard end of both upper gussets 68 lbf·ft (92
Fig. 3 and Fig. 4. Always follow Parts Depart- N·m). See Fig. 3.
ment information when replacing a welded
crossmember with a bolted crossmember.
1 1
3
2 2
04/25/95 f310308a
1. Button-Head Capscrew 2. Upper Gusset 3. Crossmember Channel
1 1
2 2
3 3
4 4
04/25/95 f310309a
1. Frame Rail 3. Upper Gusset 5. Crossmember Channel
2. Button-Head Capscrew 4. Lower Gusset
Frame Rail Alignment 3. As equipped, remove the fifth wheel and deck
plate from the frame. Refer to the applicable fifth
wheel section in this manual for instructions.
Frame rail alignment is checked by measuring the
distances from two sets of points on the upper 4. Measure back along each frame rail to find a set
flanges of the frame rails. See Fig. 1. The rear set of of bolt holes at least 72 inches (183 cm) rear-
points must be as far back as possible from the for- ward from the forward set of points. The bolt
ward set of points. There must be no interference, holes must be in exactly the same location in
along or between the frame rails, that would prevent each frame rail.
measuring from any one of the four points to the
other three points; the fifth wheel and deck plate (as IMPORTANT: If, because of interference, the
equipped) must be removed. distance must be less than 72 inches (183 cm),
the distance must be the maximum that is pos-
There are no marks or bolt holes in the top flanges
sible.
of the frame rails. Therefore, the points must be pro-
jected from the frame station marks and from the bolt 5. Project the exact vertical centerline of each bolt
holes on the frame rail webs. hole, and mark a line across the top flange of its
respective frame rail.
IMPORTANT: Use a pencil or soapstone to
make all lines, points, or other marks. Do not 6. Along each line, measure and mark a point 2
inches (5 cm) inboard from the outside face of its
use any marker or tool that will scratch the sur- respective frame rail. The rear points must be in
face of the frame rail. Use a machinist’s square identical locations on both frame rails.
to project all points from the webs to the upper
flanges, and to measure inboard from the out- 7. At the forward set of points, and again at the
side face of the frame rails. rear set of points, measure the distance across
the frame, from the outside face of each frame
1. For each frame rail, project the exact vertical rail. At both locations, this distance must be
centerline of the frame station 1150 mark, from 33.50 inches (851 mm). See Fig. 1.
the frame web to the top flange, and mark it with
a line across the top flange. If the distance at either location is incorrect,
check the Freightliner Parts Book to determine
If, because of interference, frame station 1150 which thickness of frame spacers, if any, belong
cannot be used, choose and mark another between the crossmembers and the frame rails.
matched set of points, as follows: Check for the correct spacers, and add or re-
move spacers as needed, using the procedures
1.1 Determine how far forward the upper
in Subject 130.
flanges of both frame rails are clear.
8. Measure the distance from the forward point on
1.2 Find a matched set of bolt holes on the
one frame rail to the rear point on the opposite
frame rail webs that are aligned with, or
frame rail. See Fig. 1. Then measure the dis-
just rearward of, the front of the clear
tance from the other forward point to the rear
area on the flanges. The bolt holes must
point on its opposite frame rail.
be in exactly the same location in each
frame rail. 9. Compare the two measurements. If the measure-
ments are within 1/8 inch (3 mm) of each other,
1.3 Project the exact vertical centerline of
the frame rails do not need to be aligned.
each bolt hole, and mark a line across
the top flange of its respective frame rail. If the values differ by more than 1/8 inch (3 mm),
align the frame rails.
2. Find the exact center of the width of each upper
flange, and mark the point on each projected IMPORTANT: To align the frame rails, the
line. This will be the forward set of points. The frame assembly must be assembled with all
forward points must be in identical locations on of the crossmembers in place, but the at-
both frame rails. tachment fasteners not tightened.
A 1 B
33−5/8" 33−5/8"
(854 mm) (854 mm)
11/28/95 C 2 D f310509
A. Right Forward Point or Bolt Hole C. Left Forward Point or Bolt Hole
B. Right Rear Point or Hole D. Left Rear Point or Bolt Hole
1. Right Frame Rail 2. Left Frame Rail
Frame Shaping 1
A
2
IMPORTANT: Obtain approval from your re-
gional service representative before doing any
cutting or frame shaping.
A
WARNING
1
Wear protective eye and facial gear when grind-
ing. Failure to wear this gear can result in per- 3
sonal injury due to flying metal debris from the
grinding process. 08/22/95 f310024a
A. 0.06" to 0.12" (1.5 to 3 mm)
1. If the flange of a frame rail is cut (for relief cuts
or notches), shape the edges of the flange to 1. Radius 3. Web
2. Flange
form a smooth ground radius of 0.06 to 0.12 inch
(1.5 to 3.0 mm) over the entire length of the cut. Fig. 1, Radius Dimensions
Figure 1 shows this dimension of the edge ra-
dius of the frame rail flanges.
NOTE: For information on relief cuts or notches,
refer to Subject 100.
CAUTION 1
When grinding, apply light pressure only. Heavy
pressure can result in harmful overheating and a
loss of surface temper. Grind only in the direc-
tion of the cut. Grinding across the direction of
the cut can reduce the structural strength of the
frame rail.
2. Using a clean, sharp, rotary drum grinder or flap-
10/12/94 f310023a
per wheel grinder, apply light pressure and grind
the cut edges in the direction of the length of the 1. Flange
frame rail, to form the radius. See Fig. 2. Do not Fig. 2, Direction of Grind
grind across the edges.
1 2
30°
A
B
3
45° A
4 A
30°
B
D
D
B
30°
1 A
C 2
A 45°
3
B
4 A
30°
General Information
Either Huck® fasteners or grade 8 hexhead bolts and
grade C prevailing torque locknuts are used for
frame attachments. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. For at-
tachments where clearance is minimal, low-profile
hexhead bolts and grade C prevailing torque locknuts
are used. Prevailing torque locknuts of both bolt A
types have distorted sections of threads to provide
torque retention.
3
B
1
08/14/95 f230044
HEXHEAD BOLT REPLACEMENT Never hammer or screw bolts into place. Align the
holes of the frame and the part being attached to it,
Replace hexhead bolts with identical fasteners. Refer so that the nut and bolt surfaces are flush against
to the Freightliner Parts Book for fastener specifica- the frame and the part.
tions.
Make sure the length of the bolt threads that extend
beyond the tightened locknuts are as specified in
Table 1.
Thread Extension *
Bolt Length
in (mm)
CAUTION
Minimum Maximum
Never attempt to reuse any Huck fastener that
4 (102) or Less 1-1/2 Threads 5/8 in (16 mm)
has been removed. Reusing any Huck frame fas-
Longer than 4 (102) 3 Threads 3/4 in (19 mm) tener can result in damage to the vehicle frame
* Length of bolt thread extending beyond tightened locknut. or components attached to the frame.
Table 1, Thread Extension Specifications
FRAME FASTENER TIGHTENING
For bolts 4 inches (102 mm) or less in length, make
sure that at least 1-1/2 threads and no more than CAUTION
5/8-inch (16-mm) bolt length extend through the self- Tighten standard frame fasteners periodically.
locking nut after it has been tightened. Continued vehicle operation with loose fasteners
For bolts longer than 4 inches (102 mm), allow a could result in component, bracket, and frame
minimum of three threads and a maximum of 3/4- damage.
inch (19-mm) bolt length. Tighten hexhead bolts and locknuts periodically to
offset the effects of "bedding in" (seating). Refer to
HUCK FASTENER REMOVAL the Maintenance Schedule and the frame section in
The collar for Huck fasteners is spun on when they the vehicle maintenance manual for intervals.
are installed, but it cannot be unscrewed. Use the When tightening the fasteners, tighten the nut, not
Huck Collar Cutter to remove Huck fasteners. If the the bolt head. This will give a true torque reading by
Collar Cutter isn’t available, split the collar with an air eliminating bolt body friction. For torque specifica-
chisel while supporting the opposite side of the collar tions, see Section 31.00, Specifications, 400.
with an anvil. See Fig. 3. Then, drive out the lock pin
with a punch. Discard the fastener after removing it. NOTE: Huck fasteners do not require periodic
Replace Huck fasteners with standard grade 8 tightening.
threaded fasteners.
1
2 3
08/15/95 f310081b
1. Anvil 3. Chisel
2. Spin Collar 4. Lock Pin
General Information
The Columbia aerodynamic bumper has a steel cen-
ter section with thermoplastic end caps. It is bolted to
the front of the frame rail.
The standard bumper is solid dark gray; the optional
painted bumper, with metallic argent silver insert, is
painted the same as the fenders.
Removal
1. Park the vehicle, shut down the engine, and ap-
ply the parking brake. Chock the rear tires.
2. Open the hood.
3. Disconnect the road lights mounted on the
bumper.
IMPORTANT: Support the bumper so it will not
fall when you remove the attaching bolts.
4. Remove the two 3/8–16 capscrews and washers
that attach the bumper to the bottom of the
bumper assembly bracket. See Fig. 1 for ve-
hicles with a 1200-square-inch radiator, or Fig. 2
for vehicles with a 1350-square-inch radiator.
5. On top of the bumper, remove the two 3/8–16 x
1-1/4 inch capscrews and washers that attach
the bumper to the top of the bumper assembly
bracket.
6. Using two people, remove the bumper.
7. Close the hood.
Installation
1. Open the hood.
2. Using two people, put the bumper in place on
the bumper assembly bracket. See Fig. 1. Align
the bolt holes on the bumper with the holes in
the bracket.
3. Install two 3/8–16 x 1-1/4 inch capscrews and
washers in the top of the bumper to secure it to
the top of the bumper assembly bracket. Tighten
the capscrews 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m).
4. Underneath the bumper, install the two 3/8–16 x
1-1/4 inch capscrews and washers to secure the
bumper to the bottom of the bumper assembly
bracket. Tighten the capscrews 40 lbf·ft (54 N·m).
5. Connect the road lights.
6. Close the hood.
7. Remove the chocks from the tires.
A
5
6
7
2
4
1 8
2 3
9
2
1 10
2 2
6
1 11
2
1
12/03/1999 f310826
A. Frame Assembly B. Bumper Assembly, steel center with plastic endcaps.
1. Capscrew, 3/8–16 x 1-1/4 5. Hexbolt, 1/2–13 9. Bumper Assembly Bracket, LH
2. Washer, 0.41 x 0.81 x 0.80 6. Washer, 1/2 x 1.06 x 0.14 10. Hexbolt, 3/8–16 x 1-1/4
3. Bumper Assembly Bracket, RH 7. Locknut, 3/8–16 11. Hexnut, 1/2–13
4. Bumper Torsion Bar Support, RH 8. Bumper Torsion Bar Support, LH
5
1 6
2 4 7
2
9
1 6
2 2 10
2
1
12/03/1999 f310827
A. Frame Assembly B. Bumper assembly, steel center with plastic endcaps.
1. Capscrew, 3/8–16 x 1-1/4 5. Hexbolt, 1/2–13 8. Bumper Assembly Bracket, LH
2. Washer, 0.41 x 0.81 x 0.80 6. Washer, 1/2 x 1.06 x 0.14 9. Hexbolt, 3/8–16 x 1-1/4
3. Bumper Torsion Bar Support, RH 7. Bumper Torsion Bar Support, LH 10. Hexnut, 1/2–13
4. Bumper Assembly Bracket, RH
For models with bolt-on front frame brackets, there is IMPORTANT: The following steps require two
more than one way to remove (and install) the aero- persons.
dynamic bumper. When working on the engine, ra-
diator, front closing crossmember, or other vehicle NOTE: For the four Torx capscrews, the top two
parts, it may be helpful if the bumper mounting are mated to weld nuts and the bottom two are
brackets (see Fig. 1) are removed from the vehicle mated to washers and hexnuts.
along with the bumper. To replace the bumper or 5. While one person removes the Torx capscrews,
work on bumper components, you can remove the washers, and hexnuts that attach the bumper to
bumper only (see Fig. 2). Instructions for both proce- the bumper mounting brackets, the other one
dures are provided. holds the bumper when it is no longer attached
by the fasteners. See Fig. 2.
Removal 6. With one person on each end of the bumper, re-
move the bumper from the vehicle.
Bumper and Bumper Mounting
Brackets Installation
1. Apply the parking brakes, then chock the tires.
Bumper and Bumper Mounting
2. If installed, remove the bracket that fastens the
headlight harness to the bumper. Retain the fas- Brackets
teners. NOTE: This step requires two persons.
3. If the bumper is equipped with fog lights, discon- 1. With each person supporting a side of the
nect them. bumper, align the opening for the tow device with
4. If an outside air temperature sensor is installed, the tow device housing and wrap the bumper
disconnect it from the LH side support assembly over the torsion bar assembly.
on the bumper.
NOTE: Ensure that there is an even gap be-
5. From each side of the front crossmember, re- tween the bumper and hood. Each bumper
move the three capscrews and washers that at- mounting bracket has two holes with slots that
tach the bumper mounting bracket to the tow de- allow for angle adjustments.
vice housing. See Fig. 1.
2. On each side of the front crossmember, install
NOTE: The following step requires two persons. the three washers and capscrews that attach the
6. While one person holds the bumper, the other bumper to the tow device housing. Tighten the
one carefully separates the bumper from the capscrews 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).
front flange of the tow device housing. Together, 3. If removed, install the bracket that fastens the
remove the bumper from the vehicle. headlight harness to the bumper.
4
3
8
4
3
2
6
7
01/29/2007 1 f880774
1. Fog Light 4. Washer 7. Bumper Mounting Bracket, LH
2. Bumper Mounting Bracket, RH 5. Tow Device Housing, RH 8. Tow Device Housing, LH
3. Capscrew 6. Front Crossmember
the tow device housing and wrap the bumper 4. If an electronic outside air temperature sensor is
over the torsion bar assembly. installed, connect it.
NOTE: The gap between the bumper and hood 5. If the bumper is equipped with fog lights, connect
must be even. Each bumper mounting bracket them, then use tie wraps to secure the wiring
has two holes with slots that allow for angle ad- harnesses to the frame rails.
justments. 6. Remove the chocks from the tires.
2. Install the Torx capscrews, washers, and hexnuts
that attach the bumper to the bumper mounting
bracket. Tighten the capscrews 100 lbf·ft (134
N·m). Adjust the bumper as necessary to ensure
that the gap between the bumper and hood is
even.
3. If removed, install the bracket that fastens the
headlight harness to the bumper.
4
3
6
4
3
3
2
3 1
2
01/31/2007 f880775
1. Fog Light 3. Washer 5. Bumper Mounting Bracket, RH
2. Capscrew 4. Hexnut 6. Bumper Mounting Bracket, LH
General Information
Chassis side-fairing assemblies ease air turbulence
around the fuel tanks and provide access to the
sleeper and back of the cab. See Fig. 1. The side
fairings are sized to the cab or wheelbase.
1 2 3
12/07/1999 f601870
1. Forward Panel 2. Intermediate Panel 3. Aft Panel
3
7
10
4
5 9
6
14 8 11
4
15
16
17
12
13
4
5
6
8
02/04/2000 f601882
NOTE: Install the Torx-head screws only where black clip nuts are located in the side-fairing panels.
1. Frame Rail 6. Forward Tread Plate 12. Center Tread Plate, Lower
2. Upper Support Rail 7. Rear Tread Plate 13. Forward Tread Plate, Lower
3. Lower Support Rail 8. Forward Fairing Panel 14. Isolator Strap
4. Screw, Torx-Head, 5/16–18 9. Center Fairing Panel 15. Washer, Flat, 11/32 x 7/8 in
5. Washer, Belleville, .94 x .32 x 10. Rear Fairing Panel 16. Washer, Plated, 5/16 x 1-1/4 in
.070 in 11. Rear Tread Plate, Lower 17. Locknut, 5/16–18
1 2 3
B B
12/07/1999 f601871
A. These edges should be parallel and 1-3/16 in (30 mm) apart.
B. 1/2 inch (12 mm)
1. Forward Panel 2. Center Panel 3. Rear Panel
1.4 Holding the panel and support rail assem- 4.3 Repeat the previous substeps to remove
bly by the aft edge and the handhold in the forward support rails on the other side
the center of the panel, pivot the aft end of the vehicle.
of the unit away from the vehicle (like
opening a door) until the unit can be lifted Installation
from the vehicle.
1.5 Repeat the removal procedure on the 1. Install the forward support rails. See Fig. 1.
other side of the vehicle, if applicable. 1.1 Put the upper support rail in place on the
upper U-bracket and center support
NOTE: The remaining side-fairing panels must bracket.
be removed before their support rails can be
removed. This includes the right rear fairing 1.2 Install three 3/8–16 capscrews, lockwash-
panel on vehicles without latches on the right ers, and washers on the upper support
side. rail. Tighten the capscrews finger-tight.
• Use two sets of fasteners to secure
2. Remove the remaining side-fairing panels from
the rail to the upper U-bracket.
the vehicle. See Subject 100 for instructions.
• Use one set of fasteners to secure
3. On vehicles with bolted right rear support rails the rail to the center support
(no latches), remove the rear support rails. bracket.
3.1 Remove the fasteners from one end of 1.3 Make sure the support rail is level and
the connecting bracket between the upper parallel with the frame rail. Clamp the fair-
support rails. ing panel in place, then check its align-
ment with the hood and the bottom edge
of the cab.
20
19 7
14
3
A 5
A 18 7
10 3 14 5
11 4 17
12 5 18
6 15 3
5
7
13
3
4
5 16 5
17
8
3 B
4
5
3 9
4
5
B
02/04/2000 1 f601881
NOTE: Rear fairing latch assemblies are not applicable on all vehicles.
A. Upper latch assembly. B. Lower latch assembly.
1. Lower U-Bracket 8. Forward Support Rail, Upper 15. Rear Support Rail, Upper
2. Upper U-Bracket 9. Forward Support Rail, Lower 16. Rear Support Rail, Lower
3. Capscrew, 3/8–16 10. Capscrew, 5/16–18 x 1 in 17. Locknut, 3/8 in–16
4. Lockwasher, 3/8 in 11. Washer, 0.34 x 0.69 x 0.080 in 18. Latch Bracket Assembly
5. Washer, 0.41 x 0.81 x 0.080 in 12. Stiffener, Support Rail 19. Latch Hook
6. Frame Rail 13. Connecting Bracket (no latch) 20. Retainer Pin (with tether)
7. Support Bracket 14. Latch
3. Repeat the previous substeps to install and level 5.8 Place the deck plate in position above the
the forward support rails on the other side of the rear fairing panel and secure the latch.
vehicle.
6. Install the remaining side-fairing panels. See
4. Install any rear support rails that are bolted in- Subject 100 for instructions.
stead of latched.
4.1 Slide the forward end of the upper sup-
port rail into the connecting bracket on
the forward support rail.
4.2 Align the bolt holes in the rear support rail
with those in the connecting bracket
flanges. Install four 5/16–18 capscrews
and washers, and tighten the capscrews
16 lbf·ft (22 N·m).
4.3 Insert a 3/8–16 bolt and washer through
the base of the connecting bracket and
the rear frame rail. Install a washer and
3/8–16 hexnut on the bolt and tighten the
hexnut 28 lbf·ft (38 N·m).
4.4 Insert a 3/8–16 bolt and washer through
the aft end of the support rail and rear
support bracket. Insert a washer and hex-
nut on the bolt. Tighten the hexnut 28
lbf·ft (38 N·m).
4.5 Repeat the procedure to install the lower
support rail.
5. Install all latched rear support rail assemblies.
5.1 If it was removed, install the latch bracket
assembly on the rear support bracket.
See Fig. 1.
5.2 Install the latches if they were removed.
5.3 Hold the rear fairing panel/support rail
assembly by the edges at about a 45-
degree angle to the vehicle.
5.4 Slide the ears on the ends of the rear
support rails into the ends of the forward
support rails.
5.5 Pivot the assembly into place against the
vehicle.
5.6 Hook the upper latch on the rear support
bracket, then install the retainer pins in
the stud.
5.7 Hook the lower latch on the connecting
bracket between the lower forward and
rear support rails. Install the retainer pin
in the stud.
General Description The wedge reinforces the jaw and takes up slack
around the kingpin.
Fontaine 5000/6000 series fifth wheels are used for Placing the lock control handle in the unlocked posi-
pulling trailers having a standard kingpin. When in- tion moves the wedge and jaw out from behind the
stalled as a stationary fifth wheel, it is bracket- kingpin. This action unlocks the fifth wheel, allowing
mounted to the tractor frame in a position that best freedom of movement underneath the trailer when
distributes the trailer load over the tractor axles. the tractor is moved.
When used as a sliding fifth wheel, it is mounted on
Refer to Chapter 10 in the Columbia Driver’s Manual
the Fontaine 5AWS or 5MWS model sliding mount.
for complete fifth-wheel operating instructions.
See Fig. 1.
The Fontaine fifth wheel lock mechanism for the
trailer kingpin consists of a spring-loaded jaw and a
sliding wedge. The kingpin is released by activating a
manual lock control handle located on either the right
side (curbside) or left side (roadside) of the fifth
wheel. Kingpin lockup occurs when the kingpin is
forced into the jaws and the lock control handle
moves to the locked position.
07/24/95 f310188
Principles of Operation
As the kingpin enters the lock mechanism, the jaw is
moved first with the spring-loaded wedge sliding in
place against the jaw. See Fig. 2. Then, the jaw
moves behind the kingpin, followed by the wedge.
1 A
B C
07/24/95 f310184
A. Unlocked Position C. Locked
B. Locking
1. Jaw 3. Trailer Kingpin
2. Wedge
Removal and Disassembly 6. Remove the cotter pin and flatwasher that attach
the release handle to the operating handle. Slide
the release handle out through the side of the
WARNING top plate. See Fig. 5.
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- 7. Slide the operating handle over to the side of the
building must be done only by a qualified me- top plate to expose the timer. See Fig. 6. Slide
chanic. Incorrect or incomplete procedures could the bottom part of the operating handle first. This
result in loss of the trailer connection, which allows the handle to clear the studs under the
could cause personal injury and property dam- handle.
age. 8. Lift the timer off the studs. See Fig. 7.
9. Slide the operating handle out through the slot at
WARNING the top or bottom of the fifth wheel. See Fig. 8.
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety 10. Using pliers or a screwdriver, pry the jaw and
goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail- wedge springs off the studs. See Fig. 9.
ure to do so could result in personal injury due
to parts ejecting with force. 11. Remove the jaw and wedge. See Fig. 10.
12. Remove the jaw and wedge springs.
1. Steam clean the fifth wheel. See Fig. 1.
12.1 Remove the cotter pin from each spring.
2. Remove the fifth wheel from the sliding mount. See Fig. 11.
2.1 Remove the cotter pins from the retaining 12.2 Using a screwdriver, pry up on the spring
pins. to relieve the tension; remove the spring.
2.2 Remove the retaining pins and bushing See Fig. 12. Repeat the procedure to re-
pins from both sides of the top plate. move the second spring.
WARNING
Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if
it is cracked or if parts are damaged. The top
plate or parts could malfunction. This could re-
sult in disengagement of the trailer during ve-
hicle travel, which could cause personal injury
and property damage.
3. Unhook the bumper spring from its clasp. See
Fig. 2.
4. Remove the two 1/2–13 bolts from the operating
handle. See Fig. 3.
5. Remove the bumper. See Fig. 4.
6
21
7
9
8
20
23
19
13
5 22
18
1 6
7
3 8
4
16
2 9 11
15
13
1 10
10
11
12
13
14
07/24/95 f310349
08/08/94 f310341a
6
21
7
9
8
20
23
19
13
5 22
18
1 6
7
3 8
4
16
2 9 11
15
13
1 10
10
11
12
13
14
07/24/95 f310349
08/08/94 f310346a
IMPORTANT: The fifth wheel must be well lubri- 17. Using an overhead hoist, place the fifth wheel on
cated to operate correctly. Refer to Group 31 in the sliding mount assembly. Insert the bushing
the Columbia Maintenance Manual for complete pins. Install the retaining pins and the 1-inch cot-
maintenance and lubrication instructions of the ter pins.
fifth wheel assembly.
15. Using multipurpose chassis grease, grease the
WARNING
top plate and the grease (zerk) fittings on the If the fifth wheel does not operate properly, do
side of the fifth wheel. not use it. The fifth wheel could malfunction due
On heavy-duty oscillating fifth wheels, grease the to possible disengagement of the trailer from the
top of the rocker bearing bushing. tractor, which could cause personal injury or
property damage.
16. Measure the distance from the wedge to the end
of the wedge stoprod. See Fig. 10. The correct
measurement should be 3/8 inch (10 mm). If the
measurement is more than 3/8 inch (10 mm),
turn the wedge stoprod clockwise; if the mea-
surement is less than 3/8 inch (10 mm), turn it
counterclockwise.
1 2
08/08/94 f310185a
A. Measurement should be 3/8 inch (10 mm) between stoprod and wedge.
1. Stoprod 2. Wedge
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Fifth Wheel Is Hard to Hook Up to Trailer
Problem—Fifth Wheel Is Hard to Hook Up to Trailer
Possible Cause Remedy
The trailer may be too high; the kingpin is
Lower the trailer landing gear until the trailer plate contacts the fifth wheel.
not entering the locks correctly.
Bent kingpin, or damaged trailer plate is
Check the kingpin and trailer plate. Replace parts as needed.
interfering with the lock movement.
General Information
The Holland sliding fifth wheel mount is designed to
provide maximum tractor use for different lengths
and types of trailers. The FW8, FW33, and FW35
series sliding fifth wheel mounts are used with the
Holland 3500 series fifth wheel, and are equipped 1
with either a manually operated or an air-operated
release slider.
Sliding fifth wheel assemblies are mounted on a
baseplate with notched rails. See Fig. 1. Plungers 2
are meshed into teeth on the baseplate to lock the
fifth wheel. 07/31/97 f310595
This assembly allows forward or rearward movement NOTE: Baseplate rails not shown.
of the fifth wheel along the notched rails for optimum 1. Release Lever
weight distribution over the tractor axles. The mount- 2. Slider Plunger Release
ing baseplate is bolted to the tractor frame.
Fig. 2, Manual Release Slider Assembly
air cylinder is activated by a two-position air-control
2
valve in the tractor cab. See Fig. 4.
1
4
3
05/04/93 f310370
1. Baseplate 3. Slide Mount 2
2. Fifth Wheel Top Plate 4. Baseplate Rail
(XA-3500)
07/31/97 f310596
Fig. 1, XA-3500 Sliding Fifth Wheel NOTE: Baseplate rails not shown.
1. Double-Ended Air Cylinder
When the fifth wheel is in the desired position, it is 2. Slider Plunger Release
locked in place by wedge-shaped plungers that en-
gage in the notched rails under the sliding mount. To Fig. 3, Air-Operated Release Slider Assembly
release the fifth wheel, the plungers are withdrawn.
See Chapter 10 in the Columbia Driver’s Manual for
The manually operated release slider contains a re- complete operating instructions.
lease lever that unlocks or locks both sides of the
sliding mount at the same time when it is manually
pulled or released. See Fig. 2.
The air-operated release slider contains a double-
ended air cylinder that locks or unlocks both sides of
the sliding mount at the same time. See Fig. 3. The
5th WHEEL
SLIDE
LOCK
MUST BE LOCKED
WHEN VEHICLE
IS IN MOTION
22−11571−3
02/09/94 f310047a
3 1
WARNING
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
1 goggles during disassembly and assembly, and
2 keep fingers away from possible pinch points at
4 the ends of springs. Failure to do so could cause
physical injury, due to parts ejecting with force.
3. Using a Holland TF-TN 2500 spring compressor (
Fig. 2), compress one of the plunger return
3 springs. See Fig. 3.
6 5
08/01/97 f310373
05/06/93 f310374
1. Bolt and Locknut (top plate XA-351 only)
2. Bushing Pin
3. Roll Pin (top plate XA-3501 only)
Fig. 2, Spring Compressor
4. Fifth Wheel Top Plate 4. Remove the retaining pin securing the plunger to
5. Rubber Bushing
6. Sliding Mount Assembly
the clevis on the air-release cylinder or manual
release lever. Remove the plunger.
Fig. 1, Sliding Mount Components
If equipped with a fifth wheel height of 6-5/8 or
1.1 Remove the roll pins or bolts and lock- 8-1/8 inches (168 or 206 mm), remove the re-
nuts from the bushing pins on the left and
right sides of the top plate.
11
2
1
10 11
3 13
4 14
5 12
12
15 5
15 4 2
7 3
16 1
16
A
2
1
3
4 7
5
6
5
4 2
3
9
8
09/29/97 f310375
A. Spring assembly for 6-5/8 or 8-1/8 inches (168 or 206 mm) fifth wheel heights.
1. Plunger 7. Air-Release Cylinder 12. Locknut, 3/8–16
2. Retaining Pin 8. Sliding Mount Assembly 13. Tie Bar
3. Spring Compression Stop 9. Baseplate 14. Left Release Lever
4. Plunger Return Spring 10. Right Release Lever 15. Bolt, 1/2–20
5. Spring Retainer 11. Bolt, 3/8–16 16. Locknut, 1/2–20
6. Manual Release Lever
taining pin securing the plunger to the clevis on 1. Using a rubber lubricant or a waterless hand
one of the release levers, then remove the cleaner, lubricate the outer surfaces of the new
plunger. rubber bushings.
5. Carefully remove the spring compressor. Re- 2. Install the rubber bushings in the sliding mount
move the return spring, the spring compression assembly until they are flush with the outboard
stop, and the spring retainer. ends of the assembly. See Fig. 1.
6. Repeat the procedure to remove the second 3. Using a multipurpose chassis grease, lubricate
plunger. the flanges on the sliding mount assembly. Slide
the assembly onto the tracks of the baseplate
7. Remove the air-release cylinder or the manual from the rear.
release lever.
4. Move the sliding mount assembly to the rearmost
If equipped with a fifth wheel height of 6-5/8 or position. Install the plungers in the outboard ends
8-1/8 inches (168 or 206 mm), remove the re- of the sliding mount. Engage the plungers in the
lease lever assembly. See Fig. 3. Remove the rail teeth.
bolts and locknuts securing the right and left re-
lease levers to the air-release cylinder or manual 5. Weld the rear stops on the baseplate.
release lever.
5.1 Place the rear stops under the curled
edge of the baseplate. See Fig. 4.
WARNING Allow a clearance of about 1/8 inch (3
Wear protective eye and facial gear when grind- mm) from the rear stops to the sliding
ing. Failure to do so could result in personal in- mount when it is in the full rear position.
jury due to flying metal debris from the grinding. The stops should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch
8. If the sliding mount assembly is damaged, re- (6 to 13 mm) from the rear edge of the
move it from the baseplate. baseplate.
8.1 Grind the welded area on the baseplate 5.2 Clamp the rear stops in place, then move
to remove the rear stops. See Fig. 1. the sliding mount assembly forward and
out of the way.
8.2 Remove the sliding mount assembly from
the baseplate by sliding it off the rear of 5.3 Weld the stops in place with a 1/4-inch
the tracks. (6-mm) fillet. On the forward edge, weld
only the center area. Do not weld the
9. Clean the parts to remove all dirt and grease. area where the sliding mount assembly
Replace any parts that show signs of wear or contacts the stop.
damage.
6. Move the sliding mount assembly to the rearmost
10. Inspect the rubber bushings. See Fig. 1. If they position and check for clearance. Make sure the
are damaged, or if they allow movement of more plungers seat in the rail with all teeth engaged.
than 1/8 inch (3 mm), replace them.
7. If equipped with a fifth wheel height of 6-5/8 or
8-1/8 inches (168 or 206 mm), and if new re-
Assembly lease levers are being installed, attach the right
and left release levers to the tie bar. See Fig. 3.
WARNING Install 3/8–16 bolts and locknuts and tighten
them firmly, but make sure the parts are not
All fifth wheel maintenance, adjustment, and re- binding.
building must be done only by a qualified me- Using the 1/2–20 bolts and locknuts, attach the
chanic. Incorrect or incomplete procedures could air-release cylinder or the manual release lever
result in loss of the trailer connection, which to the ends of the left and right release levers.
could cause personal injury and property dam- Tighten the nuts firmly, but make sure the parts
age. are not binding.
Fig. 4, Rear Stop Installation 15.2 Install a bushing pin on each side of the
top plate. See Fig. 1.
8. Install the spring compression stops and the
15.3 If equipped with model XA-3501 top plate,
plunger return springs on the inboard ends of the
install a roll pin in each bushing pin.
plungers. Install the spring retainers.
If equipped with model XA-351 top plate,
WARNING install a 1/2–20 bolt and locknut in each
bushing pin. Tighten the locknuts firmly.
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
goggles during disassembly and assembly, and
keep fingers away from possible pinch points at
the ends of springs. Failure to do so can result in
bodily injury, due to parts ejecting with force.
9. Using a Holland TF-TN 2500 spring compressor,
compress one of the plunger return springs and
its spring retainer enough to access the hole
through the end of the plunger shaft.
10. If equipped with a standard fifth wheel, place the
air-release cylinder or the manual release lever
so that the holes in the clevis are aligned with
the hole through the end of the plunger shaft.
Install the retaining pin in the plunger and clevis.
4
3
2
11/21/95 f310371
1. Rack 4. Plunger Adjusting
2. Plunger Bolt
3. Pocket
General Information The fifth wheel lock mechanism for the trailer kingpin
consists of a rotating jaw that grips the trailer kingpin,
and a spring-actuated lock. The jaw rotates on a jaw
The ASF Simplex® series fifth wheels are used for
pin during coupling and uncoupling operations.
pulling trailers having the standard 2-inch-diameter
kingpin. When installed as a stationary fifth wheel, The kingpin is released by activating a manual lock
they are bracket-mounted to the tractor frame in a control handle located on either the right side (curb-
position that best distributes the trailer load over the side) or left side (roadside) of the fifth wheel. Kingpin
tractor axles. See Fig. 1. lockup occurs when the kingpin is forced into the jaw
and the operating rod handle moves to the locked
When used as a sliding fifth wheel, they are mounted
position.
on the Taperloc® sliding mount (air-operated or
manual release). See Fig. 2. On air-operated sliding mounts, release or lockup of
the slider saddle plate occurs when the air cylinder is
activated by a two-position air-control valve in the
1 tractor cab. See Fig. 3.
2
The manually-operated slider saddle plate has an
operating rod that moves the operating lever to lock
3 or unlock both sides of the saddle plate at the same
time.
11/28/95 f310353b
6 Principles of Operation
3
As the tractor is moved out from under the trailer,
8
after unlocking the fifth wheel, the kingpin rotates the
3 jaw until the jaw is in a position that allows the king-
2 pin to disconnect. See Fig. 4.
1 7 During coupling, the motion of the kingpin entering
the jaw rotates the jaw into the locked position, lock-
ing the jaw around the kingpin.
04/08/96 f310445
See Chapter 10 in the Columbia Driver’s Manual for
1. Baseplate 6. Safety Latch complete operating instructions.
2. Baseplate Rail 7. Slider Handle and
3. Fifth Wheel Bracket Rod Assembly
4. Slider Saddle Plate 8. Operating Lever
5. Sliding Mount
2 4
3
1
6
5
B C
04/08/96 f310446
A. Locked position.
B. Jaw movement compresses spring.
C. Fully open.
1. Lock Control Handle 4. Jaw Pin
2. Safety Latch 5. Lock
3. Jaw 6. Lock Spring
22 2
20
12 13 21
11 3
14 19
17 5 1
10 6
15
18
16
5
4 8
3
2
7
1
11/27/95 f310087b
1. Bracket pin 8. Top Plate 16. Washer
2. Clinch Pin 9. Lock Spring 17. Lever Bar Pin
3. Mounting Bracket (for stationary 10. Lock Control Handle 18. Cotter Pin
mounts) 11. Latch Pin 19. Lock
4. Grease Fitting 12. Cotter Pin 20. Jaw
5. Bracket Shoe 13. Safety Latch 21. Clinch Pin
6. Bracket Rubber 14. Cotter Pin 22. Jaw Pin
7. Cover Plate 15. Lever Bar
Fig. 2, Bracket Shoe Removal 10. Install the fifth wheel on the sliding or stationary
mount brackets.
casting lock area is underneath the top plate,
10.1 Using an overhead hoist, place the fifth
where the lock is located.
wheel on the mount brackets.
A
B C
09/13/94 f310089a
09/09/95 f310091a A. Bottom view of ASF gauge 40-2-00171.
A. Jaw pin positioned arrow-to-arrow. B. Gauge installed.
C. Feeler shim opening.
Fig. 3, Jaw Pin Location
Fig. 4, Jaw Gauge
10.2 Clamp the fifth wheel in place to com-
press the bracket rubbers.
10.3 Insert the bracket pins and clinch pins.
11. Check the clearance between the jaw and king-
pin. 1
11.1 With the jaw open, insert ASF gauge 40-
2-00171 or a new kingpin in the fifth
wheel. See Fig. 4. 2
tance between the kingpin and jaw by the 14. Using a multipurpose chassis grease, grease the
amount shown in Table 1. top plate and the grease fittings.
12.3 Repeat the previous step to check the 15. Check the fifth wheel operation. Refer to Chapter
clearance between the jaw and the king- 10 in the Columbia Driver’s Manual for complete
pin. Continue to adjust and measure the fifth-wheel operating instructions.
clearance until the measurement is 1/8
inch (3 mm) or less. Do not turn the jaw WARNING
past postion 3.
Do not use the fifth wheel if it does not operate
Clearance Reduction correctly. The fifth wheel could malfunction due
Jaw Pin inch (mm) to possible disengagement of the trailer from the
Position tractor, which could cause personal injury and
Each Turn Total
property damage.
1 1/16 (1.6) 1/16 (1.6)
2 3/32 (2.4) 5/32 (4.0)
3 1/16 (1.6) 7/32 (5.6)
Table 1, Clearance Adjustment
B
3
3 2 D
A 2
1 1
E
10/15/96 f310090a
A. Jaw Pin Positions D. Lock
B. Jaw Pin E. Original Position
C. Jaw
1. Position 1 3. Position 3
2. Position 2
Troubleshooting
Problem—Fifth Wheel Is Hard to Hook Up to Trailer
Problem—Fifth Wheel Is Hard to Hook Up to Trailer
Possible Cause Remedy
The trailer may be too high; the kingpin is Lower the trailer landing gear until the trailer plate contacts the fifth wheel.
not entering the jaws correctly.
Bent kingpin or damaged trailer plate is Check the kingpin and trailer plate. Replace parts as needed.
interfering with the jaw movement.
The jaw pin has not been adjusted Check the clearance between the jaw and kingpin. Adjust as needed.
correctly.
The lever bar is bent. Check the lever bar. Replace it if needed.
The lock control handle is bent. Check the lock control handle. Replace it if needed.
The safety latch is jammed. Check the lock control handle. Replace it if it is bent.
The cover plate is bent. Check the cover plate. Replace it if needed.
Dirt has accumulated on the moving parts. Clean all the parts and lubricate them lightly.
General Information place against the jaw. The jaw will move behind the
kingpin, followed by the wedge. The wedge rein-
Fontaine H5092 series fifth wheels couple to trailers forces the jaw and automatically adjusts for slack
around the kingpin. See Fig. 2 for an illustration of
having a standard 2-inch kingpin. When installed as
a stationary mount, the fifth wheel is bracket- the jaw and wedge in the locked position.
mounted to the tractor frame in a position that best Placing the lock control handle in the unlocked posi-
distributes the trailer load over the tractor axles. Slid- tion moves the wedge and jaw out from behind the
ing fifth wheels ( Fig. 1), are mounted on the Fon- kingpin and unlocks the fifth wheel. See Fig. 3 for an
taine HAWB or HMWS (previously called 5AWB and illustration of the jaw and wedge in the unlocked pos-
5MWS) model slide mounts.
09/06/95 f310477
11/15/2002 f310930
1. Jaw
2. Wedge
Fig. 2, Locked Position
11/15/2002 f310929
1. Jaw
2. Wedge
Fifth Wheel Removal and result in disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor, leading to personal injury or property
Disassembly damage.
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine H5092 goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
fifth wheel.
13
14
10
15
1
11 12
2
3 16
9 14
4 17
18
1
1 21
19
2 22
21
3 20 23
4
25
5 21
8
6 23 26
7 24
1 6
09/18/95 f310476
1. Cotter Pin, 3/16" x 1" 11. Thread-Cutting Screw, 1/4–20 x 20. Bumper
2. Lower Bracket Retainer Pin 3/8" 21. Flatwasher
3. Grease Fitting 12. Step Jaw and Wedge 22. Bushing, 5/16", Bumper Pivot
4. Lower Bracket Pin 13. Jaw Spring 23. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13
5. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Cotter Pin, 1/4" x 3" 24. Bushing, 7/16", Handle Pivot
6. Flatwasher 15. Timer 25. Operating Handle, Side Release
7. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 16. Wedge Spring Only
8. Nut, Wedge Stop Rod 17. Pull Handle 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
9. Upper Assembly, Side Release 18. Bumper Handle Spring Handle Pivot
10. Leaf Spring 19. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
Bumper Pivot
Fig. 1, Fontaine H5092 Series Fifth Wheel (left-side release shown)
WARNING
Do not attempt to repair or rebuild the top plate if
it is cracked or if parts are damaged. The top
plate or parts could malfunction. This could re-
sult in disengagement of the trailer during ve-
hicle travel, possibly causing personal injury and
property damage.
4. Set the fifth wheel in a locked position, then un- 09/13/95 f310481
hook the bumper spring from the bumper tang
and the tab on the side of the fifth wheel sub- Fig. 3, Bolt Removal
structure. See Fig. 2. Remove the bumper handle out through the side of the fifth wheel.
spring. See Fig. 4.
1
09/14/95 f310480
09/13/95 f310482
1. Bumper Spring
Fig. 4, Pull Handle Removal
Fig. 2, Bumper Spring Removal
7. Slide the operating handle over to the side of the
5. Remove the two bolts on the operating handle. fifth wheel. Slide the bottom part first. This will
See Fig. 3. Each bolt has a nut, washer, and allow the handle to clear the jaw and wedge
bushing. Discard the bushings. studs on the underside and clear the timer. See
6. Remove the cotter pin and washer that holds the Fig. 5.
pull handle to the operating handle. Slide the pull 8. Remove the timer by lifting upward. See Fig. 6.
09/14/95 f310483
1. Operating Handle
09/13/95 f310485
Fig. 5, Operating Handle Positioning
Fig. 7, Operating Handle Removal
09/14/95 f310484
1. Timer 09/14/95 f310486
09/13/95 f310487
12. Remove the wedge first, and then the jaw. Dis-
card the jaw and wedge. See Fig. 10.
09/13/95 f310488
Assembly and Installation from the tractor, leading to personal injury and
property damage.
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine H5092 Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
fifth wheel. goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
13
14
10
15
1
11 12
2
3 16
9 14
4 17
18
1
1 21
19
2 22
21
3 20 23
4
25
5 21
8
6 23 26
7 24
1 6
09/18/95 f310476
1. Cotter Pin, 3/16" x 1" 11. Thread-Cutting Screw, 1/4–20 x 20. Bumper
2. Lower Bracket Retainer Pin 3/8" 21. Flatwasher
3. Grease Fitting 12. Step Jaw and Wedge 22. Bushing, 5/16", Bumper Pivot
4. Lower Bracket Pin 13. Jaw Spring 23. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13
5. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Cotter Pin, 1/4" x 3" 24. Bushing, 7/16", Handle Pivot
6. Flatwasher 15. Timer 25. Operating Handle, Side Release
7. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 16. Wedge Spring Only
8. Nut, Wedge Stop Rod 17. Pull Handle 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
9. Upper Assembly, Side Release 18. Bumper Handle Spring Handle Pivot
10. Leaf Spring 19. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2",
Bumper Pivot
Fig. 1, Fontaine H5092 Series Fifth Wheel (left-side release shown)
09/13/95 f310487
09/13/95 f310488
Repeat these steps to replace the jaw spring. 6. Insert the timer over the jaw and wedge studs.
the small hole on the timer fits over the jaw stud
NOTE: The jaw spring has minimal tension and and the slotted hole fits over the wedge stud. Be
can be replaced by hand. certain the small bent arm of the timer is facing
4. Place the bumper back in position, sliding the downward. See Fig. 6.
bumper tang through the operating handle guide 7. Slide the operating handle toward the center of
slot and toward the tab on the side of the fifth the wheel to engage the handle with the studs
wheel substructure. See Fig. 4. on the jaw and wedge. Slide the top part first.
5. Apply a liberal amount of grease to the grooved This will ensure that the grooves on the operat-
middle section of the operating handle, then in- ing handle are aligned with the studs. A correctly
sert the operating handle and move it over to the aligned operating handle should be in a vertical
side of the wheel. See Fig. 5. position once it goes over the studs. See Fig. 7.
09/14/95 f310483
1. Operating Handle
09/13/95 f310485
Fig. 7, Operating Handle Positioning
Fig. 5, Operating Handle Installation
09/13/95 f310482
09/14/95 f310484
Fig. 8, Pull Handle Installation
1. Timer
Apply grease to the bolt parts and where there is
Fig. 6, Timer Installation metal to metal contact with the operating handle.
8. Slide the pull handle in through the safety lock See Fig. 9. Do not overtighten the bolts. Lubri-
and using the cotter pin and washer, fasten it in cate all pivot points.
the top hole of the operating handle. See Fig. 8. IMPORTANT: The fifth wheel must be well lubri-
9. Align the bumper hole with the hole in the oper- cated to operate correctly. Refer to Group 31 of
ating handle. Replace the bolts on the operating the Columbia™ Maintenance Manual for com-
handle. The bolt which fastens the operating plete maintenance and lubrication instructions
handle to the bumper must be inserted with the for the fifth wheel assembly.
threads facing toward you to prevent interference
with the jaw springs. The other bolt should be 10. Connect the bumper spring to its clasp. See
positioned with the threads facing downward. Fig. 10. Apply grease to the bracket pockets and
Each bolt has a nut, washer, and new bushings. to the grease fittings on the side of the fifth
WARNING
If the fifth wheel does not operate properly, do
not use it. The fifth wheel could malfunction, re-
sulting in personal injury or property damage due
to possible disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor.
11. Using an overhead hoist, position the fifth wheel
on the sliding mount assembly. Insert the bush-
ing pins. Install the retaining pins and the 1-inch-
long cotter pins.
09/13/95 f310481
09/14/95 f310480
1. Bumper Spring
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
Possible Cause Remedy
The kingpin is too high to trip the latch Lower the landing gear.
The trailer plate or kingpin is damaged Check the trailer plate for flatness. Check the kingpin for squareness with the
trailer plate.
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Possible Cause Remedy
Pressure on the locking mechanism Back up the trailer and set the brakes. Strike the wedge stop rod which
caused by the truck drifting apart from the protrudes through the side of the fifth wheel. This spring-loaded rod will
trailer putting excess pressure on the lock release the pressure on the locking mechanism.
Oval-shaped kingpin Lower the landing gear.
Debris build-up in the grease
Problem—Slack
Problem—Slack
Possible Cause Remedy
Undersized kingpin Replace the kingpin if worn greater than 1/8 inch (3 mm) at the 2-inch (5-cm)
diameter.
Worn jaw and wedge Jaw and wedge could have excessive wear. Replace them.
General Information kingpin and unlocks the fifth wheel. See Fig. 2 for an
illustration of the jaw and wedge in the unlocked pos-
Fontaine 6000 and 7000 series fifth wheels couple to tition.
trailers having the standard 2-inch kingpin. When in-
stalled as a stationary mount, the fifth wheel is
bracket-mounted to the tractor frame in a position
that best distributes the trailer load over the tractor
axles. Sliding fifth wheels are mounted on the Fon-
taine AWB or MWS model slide mounts.
The Fontaine fifth wheel lock mechanism for the
trailer kingpin consists of a spring-loaded jaw and
sliding wedge. Kingpin release is accomplished by
pulling a manual lock control handle located on either
the right side (curbside) or left side (roadside) of the
fifth wheel. Kingpin coupling occurs when the kingpin 1 2
enters the throat of the fifth wheel, triggers the jaw
and wedge to slide into place behind the kingpin, and
moves the lock control handle into the locked posi- 11/18/2002 f310932
tion.
1. Jaw 2. Wedge
As the kingpin enters the lock mechanism, the jaw is
moved first with the spring-loaded wedge sliding in Fig. 2, Unlocked Position
place against the jaw. The jaw will move behind the
kingpin, followed by the wedge. The wedge rein-
forces the jaw and automatically adjusts for slack
around the kingpin. See Fig. 1 for an illustration of
the jaw and wedge in the locked position.
2 1
11/18/2002 f310931
1. Jaw 2. Wedge
Fifth Wheel Removal and result in disengagement of the trailer from the
tractor, leading to personal injury or property
Disassembly damage.
Parts are under spring compression. Wear safety
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine® 6000 goggles during disassembly and assembly. Fail-
or 7000 No-Slack II series fifth wheel.
5
19 14
20 21
17
16 22
17 10
15 17
9 5
9
17
8
17
18 16
6 7
16 11
5 15 12
14 24
16
25
17 23
5 1
4 9 17
2
3 13 26
2
11/12/2002 f310927
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 11. Timer Spring 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8", Plain 12. Step Jaw and Wedge Set 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 13. Bushing 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-3/4",
4. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Bracket Retainer Pin Grade 5
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1" 15. Bracket Pin 22. Bumper
6. Bumper Spring 16. Grease Fitting 23. Operating Handle
7. Handle Spring 17. Flatwasher, 1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" 24. Timer
8. Bushing, 7/16" O.D., Plain 25. Hairpin Cotter Pin
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-1/2", 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2-3/4",
10. Bushing, 5/16" Grade 5 Grade 5
Fig. 1, Fontaine 6000 and 7000 No-slack II Series Fifth Wheel (left side release shown)
2 3
1
11/12/2002 f310921
1. Bolt
2. Secondary Lock
Fig. 3, Secondary Lock
11/12/2002 f310920
1. Bumper Spring
2. Secondary Lock Spring
3. Pull Handle Cotter Pin
Fig. 2, Pull Handle
7. Unbolt the operating handle from the pivot mount Fig. 4, Bumper
and remove. Discard the locknut. See Fig. 5.
8. Remove the timer spring and timer. See Fig. 6.
9. Remove the jaw and wedge. See Fig. 7.
1 1
11/12/2002 f310924
1. Timer Spring
2. Timer
Assembly and Installation 6. Install the pull handle. See Fig. 7. Use the exist-
ing washer and cotter pin (inspect for wear be-
fore using and replace if necessary). Attach the
WARNING new secondary lock/bumper spring that is sup-
plied in the repair kit. Open and close the fifth
Before rebuilding the assembly, check to make wheel to ensure that it works properly. The fifth
sure that there are no cracks in the crossmem- wheel must be properly lubricated before open-
bers or other components. Also check the ing and closing the wheel.
bracket pin holes to ensure they are not worn
oversize (pins should fit snugly). Under no cir- Use a Moly-based lubricant such as Mobil
cumstances should a fifth wheel be repaired or grease Moly 50 or equivalent when applying
used if any component (crossmember, saddle lubricant to the locking jaw and wedge. Lightly
bearing, etc.) is cracked. Operating a fifth wheel oil other moving parts in the fifth wheel.
with damaged components could result in disen-
gagement of the trailer from the tractor, leading 7. Close the fifth wheel several times with a stan-
to personal injury or property damage. dard 2-inch kingpin tool. With the lock closed,
adjust the wedge stop rod so that the end is 1/4
Use a Moly-based lubricant such as Mobil inch (6 mm) from the wedge. See Fig. 8.
grease Moly 50 or equivalent when applying 8. Using an overhead hoist, position the fifth wheel
lubricant to the locking jaw and wedge. Lightly on the sliding mount assembly. Insert the bush-
oil other moving parts in the fifth wheel. ing pins. Install the retaining pins and the 1-inch-
long cotter pins.
See Fig. 1 for an exploded view of a Fontaine® 6000
or 7000 No-Slack II series fifth wheel.
1. Always assemble parts around a 2-inch kingpin
or a 2-inch-diameter shaft. Insert the jaw first,
then the wedge below it. See Fig. 2. Grease the
jaw and wedge on the top and bottom.
2. Install the timer and the timer spring. See Fig. 3.
3. Install the operating handle and bolt to the pivot
mount. See Fig. 4. Use the existing bolt, washer,
hairpin cotter pin and bushing. Inspect the bush-
ing for wear before using it and replace it if nec-
essary. Use the new locknut that is supplied in
the repair kit. Note the orientation of the bolt (
Fig. 1).
4. Install the bumper and bolt it to the operating
handle. See Fig. 5. Use the existing bolt and
washers (inspect for wear before using, and re-
place if necessary). Use the new locknut and
bushing that is supplied in the repair kit. Note the
orientation of the bolt ( Fig. 1). After installing the
bumper, check to make sure that it can pivot
freely.
5. Insert the secondary lock and bolt it to the oper-
ating handle. See Fig. 6. Use the existing bolt
and washers (inspect for wear before using and
replace if necessary). Use the new locknut and
bushing that is supplied in the repair kit. Note the
orientation of the bolt ( Fig. 1).
5
19 14
20 21
17
16 22
17 10
15 17
9 5
9
17
8
17
18 16
6 7
16 11
5 15 12
14 24
16
25
17 23
5 1
4 9 17
2
3 13 26
2
11/12/2002 f310927
1. Wedge Stop Rod Nut 11. Timer Spring 19. Pull Handle
2. Flatwasher, 5/8", Plain 12. Step Jaw and Wedge Set 20. Secondary Lock
3. Wedge Stop Rod Spring 13. Bushing 21. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-3/4",
4. Wedge Stop Rod 14. Bracket Retainer Pin Grade 5
5. Cotter Pin, 3/16 x 1" 15. Bracket Pin 22. Bumper
6. Bumper Spring 16. Grease Fitting 23. Operating Handle
7. Handle Spring 17. Flatwasher, 1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" 24. Timer
8. Bushing, 7/16" O.D., Plain 25. Hairpin Cotter Pin
9. Hex Locknut, 1/2–13 18. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 1-1/2", 26. Hexhead Bolt, 1/2–13 x 2-3/4",
10. Bushing, 5/16" Grade 5 Grade 5
Fig. 1, Fontaine 6000 and 7000 No-slack II Series (left side release shown)
1 1
1
1
2
1 2
2
11/12/2002 f310926
A. 1/4 inch (6 mm)
1. Stop Rod
2. Wedge
2 3
1
11/12/2002 f310920
1. Bumper Spring
2. Secondary Lock Spring
3. Pull Handle Cotter Pin
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
Problem—Difficulty Coupling
Possible Cause Remedy
The kingpin is too high to trip the latch Lower the landing gear.
The trailer plate or kingpin is damaged Check the trailer plate for flatness. Check the kingpin for squareness with the
trailer plate.
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Problem—Difficulty Uncoupling
Possible Cause Remedy
Pressure on the locking mechanism Back up the trailer and set the brakes. Strike the wedge stop rod which
caused by the truck drifting apart from the protrudes through the side of the fifth wheel. This spring-loaded rod will
trailer, putting excess pressure on the lock release the pressure on the locking mechanism.
Oval-shaped kingpin Lower the landing gear.
Debris build-up in the grease
Problem—Slack
Problem—Slack
Possible Cause Remedy
Undersized kingpin Replace the kingpin if it is worn greater than 1/8 inch (3 mm) at the 2-inch (5-
cm) diameter.
Worn jaw and wedge The jaw and wedge could have excessive wear. Replace them.
General Information
The Premier model 690 trailer coupling is a non-air-
adjusted, heavy-duty coupling. It is used for load ca-
pacities up to 90,000 lbs, and is available with either
right- or left-hand operation. See Fig. 1.
05/21/93 f310387
Inspection
With the 690 coupling in the closed position, pull out-
ward on the 692 pintle:
• The measured gap between the top of the 692
pintle and the adjacent face of the 690 cou-
pling body must be less than 3/8 inch (9.52 1
mm). See Fig. 1.
• A 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) or greater gap indicates
that the coupling is no longer suitable for ser-
vice. A repair kit will be necessary to return the
coupling to service, or a new 690 coupling may
be installed.
A B
4 01/25/96 f310511
1. Wear Surface
C
Fig. 2, Wear Checking
1
5 0% 2.12
2 WEAR
3 6
18%
06/30/2010 f311116 WEAR 1.74
Disassembly
7 8
1. Remove the coupling from the vehicle.
2. Remove the pintle-hook nut and bolt, then re- 9
move the pintle hook from the coupling body.
See Fig. 1. 6
3. With the handle pushed in, remove the nut from 5
the end of the handle.
4. Remove the bushing, then the handle from the 10
4
body.
5. From the bottom of the coupling body, remove
the small pawl spring, then the pawl and the
large pawl spring. Discard the two springs. 3 2 1
02/03/94 f310396
6. Remove the locking pin assembly from the cou-
pling body, and discard it. See Fig. 2. 1. Small Pawl Spring 7. Locking-Pin
2. Pawl Assembly
3. Large Pawl Spring 8. Nut
4. Pintle-Hook Bolt 9. Bushing
1 2 9
5. Pintle-Hook Nut 10. Handle
6. Pintle Hook
3 Fig. 2, Repair Kit Parts
4
5
1
8 8
6 10
7
01/25/96 f310391
1. Bushing 6. Coupling Body
2. Nut 7. Pintle-Hook Bolt
3. Large Pawl Spring 8. Pintle Hook
4. Small Pawl Spring 9. Handle
5. Pawl 10. Pintle-Hook Nut 2
Assembly
1. Check for wear on any parts that aren’t included 01/28/94 f310393
in the new repair kit. Replace them if needed.
1. Mounting Surface 2. Bottom Surface
2. Place the coupling body on its face, with the
mounting surface up and the bottom of the cou- Fig. 3, View of the Mounting Surface
pling body toward you. See Fig. 3.
4. Install the pawl and spring in the bottom of the
3. Place a new large spring on the pawl, so that
coupling body, with the spring to your left. See
one leg of the spring fits into the groove in the
Fig. 5. Make sure the other leg of the spring sits
pawl. See Fig. 4.
in the slot inside the body.
NOTICE
Do not overtighten the nuts for the pintle hook
3 and the handle or it may cause the parts to bind,
which could result in unnecessary wear on the
coupling.
05/25/93 f310394
9. Set the coupling body on its mounting surface,
1. Large Pawl Spring 3. Pawl
2. Groove
then install the new pintle hook, bolt, and nut.
Tighten the nuts on the pintle hook bolt and the
Fig. 4, Pawl and Pawl Spring
handle snugly.
10. Install the new locking pin assembly on the top
of the coupling body. See Fig. 2.
1 11. Lubricate all the moving parts with light penetrat-
2
ing oil. Don’t lubricate the wear surface of the
3 pintle hook. Open and close the pintle hook sev-
eral times to distribute the oil.
12. Install the coupling on the vehicle. Tighten the
A
mounting bolts 320 lbf·ft (434 N·m).
05/26/93 f310395
NOTE: Before performing the 294 bolt replace- 5. Using a hammer or file, destroy the threaded end
ment procedure, first verify that the 690 coupling of the 294 bolt and discard it.
is not in need of a complete repair kit. Perform 6. Thoroughly clean the 690 coupling body holes
the inspection procedure in Subject 100. where the 294 bolt was inserted, as well as the
interior surfaces of the 690 coupling body. Clean
Bolt Replacement the hole and all surfaces of the 692 pintle.
7. On each side of the coupling body, measure the
See Table 1 for new parts required. Parts can be hole diameters where the 294 bolt was inserted.
ordered from Premier Manufacturing Company at: If a hole diameter exceeds 1.156 inches (29.36
(800) 255-5387 or (503) 234-9202. mm) the coupling body is considered out-of-
service and must be replaced.
Parts Required 8. Inspect the holes around the 691 release handle
Part for wear. If there is a gap of 1/32-inch (0.79 mm)
Description Qty.
Number or greater between the 691 handle shaft and
Bolt 294 1 hole circumference, remove the handle assem-
bly, then measure the hole diameters. If a hole
Locknut 297 1 diameter exceeds 1.30 inches (33.02 mm), the
Table 1, Parts Required coupling is to be considered out-of-service and
must be replaced.
1. Place the 690 coupling into the OPEN position 9. Test fit the 294 bolt by inserting it from the right
as shown in Fig. 1. side through the holes of the 690 coupling body,
without the 692 pintle in place. Make certain that
A B the new 294 bolt head is flush with the outer 690
coupling body side wall.
4
If the new 294 bolt head and the 690 coupling
C body are not flush, two possible causes are
shown in Fig. 2.
• Arrow A indicates a gap between the new
294 bolt head and the 690 coupling body
1 caused by the hole in the 690 coupling
5 body not being chamfered. This can be
2
3 6 resolved by grinding a 45 degree chamfer,
06/30/2010 f311116 no larger than 1/16 inch (1.59 mm), around
A. Left Side, Open Position the entire circumference of the 690 cou-
B. Right Side, Closed Position pling body hole.
C. 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) or less
• Arrow B indicates a gap because the bolt
1. 692 Pintle 4. 691 Release Handle stop is preventing the bolt from sitting flush
2. 297 Locknut 5. Bolt Stop to the coupling body. This can be corrected
3. 295Z-87 Snap Ring 6. 294 Bolt by grinding or filing the bolt stop until the
bolt head clears it.
Fig. 1, 690 Coupling
10. For final assembly, remove the 294 bolt and
2. If the bolt is an old style with a snap ring, re- apply heavy grease to the the 692 pintle hole,
move the 295Z-87 snap ring from the end of the the 690 coupling body holes, and the shank of
294 bolt, then discard it. the new 294 bolt (do not lubricate the threads).
3. Remove the 297 locknut and discard it. 11. Place the 692 pintle into the 690 coupling body,
4. Firmly gripping the 692 pintle, slide the 294 bolt aligning the pintle hole with the body holes. From
out of the 690 coupling body. the right side, insert the new 294 bolt through the
aligned holes. Clean all signs of lubrication from
3
A
2 B
1 1
06/28/2010 f311117
A. Gap caused by 690 body hole not chamfered.
Correct by chamfering hole.
B. Gap caused by bolt stop preventing the bolt head
from seating flush to the coupling body. Correct by
grinding or filing the bolt stop until the bolt head
clears it.
1. 690 Body 3. 297 Locknut
2. 294 Bolt 4. 692 Pintle
General Information
Standard Freightliner front suspensions use tapered
leaf spring assemblies, with shock absorbers as
standard equipment. See Fig. 1.
The spring assemblies are attached to the axle with
U-bolts, hardened washers, and high nuts. The for-
ward end of each spring contains a rubber bushing
and a through-bolt that mounts to a stationary front
suspension bracket. The rear of each spring mounts
to a pair of spring shackles that are suspended from
a frame-mounted bracket. The rear spring eye and
shackle bracket each contain a rubber bushing and a
through-bolt to allow the spring shackles to pivot.
The spring shackles allow for variations in spring
length during spring flexing.
The leaf spring assembly absorbs and stores energy,
then releases it. The individual leaves are held to-
gether by a center bolt, with the center bolt nut used
as a locating dowel for the axle stop and shock-
absorber lower bracket installation on the vehicle.
Steel spring pins with bronze bushings are available
as an option. See Fig. 2. These pins have a longitu-
dinal lubrication groove in them. Bronze bushings are
used with 12,000-pound or 14,000-pound leaf
springs, and are graphite impregnated with a grease
seal at each end.
9
10
19
18
20
10
9
21 10 8
18
10
22 9
10 17
13
10
17
14 8
12
10
11
16
9 15
10 7
9
6 10
8 5
2
1
08/18/2000 f320858
17
15 31
32 28 29
22
15 26 10
27
23 10
17 30
33 27
27
17 18 18 13 7 25
10 24
26
19
21
16
14 20
17 34
15 35
15 36
13 A
6
9 5
12 8
7
12 10 4 34
11 35
36
3
A
2
1
08/23/2000 f320860
A. Equipped with Threaded Spring Pins
1. U-Bolt High Nut 15. Hardened Washer 24. Hardened Washer, 2-1/4" o.d.
2. Bearing Washer 16. Front Suspension Bracket 25. Spring Pin, Rear Spring Eye
3. Axle 17. Locknut, 3/4–10 26. Shackle
4. Dowel 18. U-Bolt 27. Wear Plate
5. Caster Adjustment Shim 19. Axle Stop and Lower Shock 28. Shackle Bracket Bushing
6. Spacer Absorber Lower Mounting 29. Pinch Bolt, 1/2–13 x 4"
7. Outboard Spacing Washer(s) Bracket 30. Spring Pin, Shackle Bracket
8. Outboard Spring Spacer 20. Spring Center-Bolt and Nut 31. Frame Rail
9. Spring Pin, Forward Spring Eye 21. Shock Absorber 32. Shackle Bracket
10. Hardened Washer, 1/2–13 22. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting 33. Leaf Spring
11. Hexbolt, 1/2–13 x 5" Bracket 34. Split Ring
12. Spring Pin Retainer 23. Hexbolt, 3/4–10 Hardened 35. Threaded Bushing
13. Spring-Eye Bushing Washer 36. Threaded Spring Pin
14. Inboard Spring Spacer
9
10
19
18
20
10
9
21 10 8
18
10
22 9
10 17
13
10
17
14 8
12
10
11
16
9 15
10 7
9
6 10
8 5
2
1
08/18/2000 f320858
17
15 31
32 28 29
22
15 26 10
27
23 10
17 30
33 27
27
17 18 18 13 7 25
10 24
26
19
21
16
14 20
17 34
15 35
15 36
13 A
6
9 5
12 8
7
12 10 4 34
11 35
36
3
A
2
1
08/23/2000 f320860
A. Equipped with Threaded Spring Pins
1. U-Bolt High Nut 15. Hardened Washer 24. Hardened Washer, 2-1/4" o.d.
2. Bearing Washer 16. Front Suspension Bracket 25. Spring Pin, Rear Spring Eye
3. Axle 17. Locknut, 3/4–10 26. Shackle
4. Dowel 18. U-Bolt 27. Wear Plate
5. Caster Adjustment Shim 19. Axle Stop and Lower Shock 28. Shackle Bracket Bushing
6. Spacer Absorber Lower Mounting 29. Pinch Bolt, 1/2–13 x 4"
7. Outboard Spacing Washer(s) Bracket 30. Spring Pin, Shackle Bracket
8. Outboard Spring Spacer 20. Spring Center-Bolt and Nut 31. Frame Rail
9. Spring Pin, Forward Spring Eye 21. Shock Absorber 32. Shackle Bracket
10. Hardened Washer, 1/2–13 22. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting 33. Leaf Spring
11. Hexbolt, 1/2–13 x 5" Bracket 34. Split Ring
12. Spring Pin Retainer 23. Hexbolt, 3/4–10 Hardened 35. Threaded Bushing
13. Spring-Eye Bushing Washer 36. Threaded Spring Pin
14. Inboard Spring Spacer
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the rear 9. Remove the spring assembly by lifting it up off
tires. Raise the vehicle until both wheels are off the axle and out the front of the truck. Note the
the ground and the frame is supported with taper direction of the caster shim so that it will
safety stands. The axle and leaf springs can then not be reversed during installation
be manipulated with the floor jack.
10. If the shackle pin or shackle bracket bushings
IMPORTANT: Make sure the frame rails are are to be inspected or replaced, remove the pin.
level and an equal distance off the ground. 10.1 Remove the flanged pinch bolts and
2. On vehicles with tapered leaf spring assemblies, flanged nuts.
unplug the road-light wires behind the front 10.2 Remove the spacing washers (used only
bumper. Remove the bumper mounting bolts; with nonthreaded pins) and keep them
reference the location of the mounting bolt spac- with the pin. Make note of their correct
ers for later assembly. Remove the bumper from location for later installation.
the vehicle.
10.3 If the shackle pin is threaded, unscrew it
On vehicles with flat leaf spring assemblies, re- from the shackle pin bushing.
move the wheel and tire. For instructions, refer to
Group 40 in this manual. 10.4 If the shackle pin is nonthreaded, drive
the pin outboard using a suitable drift to
3. Remove the U-bolts, stop assembly, and spring remove it.
liner (if equipped) from the spring.
11. Remove the shackle bracket for inspection; re-
4. On vehicles equipped with shock absorbers, place its bushing if necessary. See the applicable
compress the shock absorber to prevent it from steps under "Cleaning and Inspection" in this
interfering with further work. subject.
NOTE: if necessary, remove the mud guards to
access the shackles. Cleaning and Inspection
5. Starting at the aft end of the spring, remove the
flanged pinch bolts and flanged nuts securing the 1. Using a wire brush and solvent or steam clean-
shackle spring pin. ing equipment, wash all parts to remove dirt,
grease, and scale.
6. If the spring pin is threaded, unscrew it from the
bushing. 2. Inspect the shackle bracket and the spring
shackles for cracks, wear, or other damage. Re-
If the spring pin is nonthreaded, drive it outboard place damaged parts.
with a suitable drift and remove it.
3. Inspect the spring for cracks and corrosion. If
Remove the spacing washers (used only with any leaves are cracked or broken, replace the
nonthreaded pins) and keep them with the pin. entire spring assembly.
Make note of their correct location for later instal-
lation.
WARNING
7. Remove the flanged pinch bolts and flanged nuts
from the forward frame bracket. Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete
8. If the spring pin is threaded, unscrew it from the spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or
bushing. breaks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to
If the spring pin is nonthreaded, drive it inboard other leaves. Replacement of only the visibly
with a suitable drift to remove it. damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring
is safe. On front spring assemblies, if cracks or
Remove the spacing washers (used only with breaks exist in the two top leaves, a loss of ve-
nonthreaded pins) and keep them with the pin. hicle control could occur. Failure to replace a
Make note of their correct location for later instal- damaged spring assembly could cause an acci-
lation.
dent resulting in serious personal injury or prop- 3. If the shackle was disconnected from the shackle
erty damage. bracket, attach it to the bracket.
4. If the protective coating is gone from some areas 3.1 Apply Alumilastic® or similar compound to
of the spring, paint the cleaned areas with a rust- all areas of the shackle that contact
inhibiting paint. If rusting or corrosion is severe, metal. This includes all capscrews, wash-
replace the spring. ers, and locknuts that contact the alumi-
num shackle. Do not apply the compound
5. Using a micrometer, check nonthreaded spring
to the inner (bearing) surface of the bush-
pins and shackle pin for wear.
ing or on fastener threads.
On leaf spring assemblies, replace a pin if the
diameter at any point on the pin is less than CAUTION
1.242 inches (31.54 mm).
6. Inspect threaded spring and shackle pins for Failure to apply Alumilastic or similar compound
cracked or broken threads. Replace any pin that will result in electrolytic corrosion of dissimilar
has damaged threads. metal components, and will damage the suspen-
sion system.
7. Inspect the spring and bracket bushings. Re-
place the bushings if gouged, cracked, pitted, or 3.2 Install the shackles.
otherwise damaged. For instructions, see Sub- NOTE: When nonthreaded shackle pins are
ject 110. used, make sure the correct spacing wash-
8. If nonthreaded bushings are not damaged, in- ers are inserted between bracket ends and
spect them for wear. Using a micrometer, check shackles. Be sure the hardened wear wash-
the inside diameter of each bushing. The inside ers are in direct contact with the spring eye.
diameter of any bushing should not exceed the
diameter of its pin by more than 0.010 inch (0.25 3.3 Insert the nonthreaded pin or screw in the
mm). Replace any bushing that exceeds this threaded pin with its grease fitting end
limit. toward the outboard side. Install the split
ring on the inboard end of the threaded
pin. Align the grooves of the pin with the
Installation (See Fig.1or Fig.2) flanged pinch-bolt bores.
3.4 Install the flanged pinch bolts and flanged
WARNING nuts to hold the shackle pin and spacing
washers in place. Torque the nuts 95 lbf·ft
Failure to install identical spring assemblies (130 N·m).
could affect the balance of the front suspension
and cause difficult handling of the vehicle, result-
ing in injury or property damage. CAUTION
Do not overtighten the shackle pinch-bolt nuts.
1. Install the shackle bracket if previously removed.
Overtightening these nuts could distort and
Tighten the mounting fastener locknuts 190 lbf·ft
weaken the aluminum shackles.
(260 N·m).
4. Place the caster shim on the front axle in the
NOTE: All suspension bracket (frame) fasteners position referenced earlier.
require periodic retorquing. Refer to the suspen-
sion section in the vehicle maintenance manual 5. Install the spring assembly on the caster shim;
for instructions. make sure the spring bolt head fits into the bore
in the axle.
2. Using multipurpose chassis grease, lubricate
both spring pins, the shackle pin, and the inside 6. Place the axle stop assembly and spring liner (if
surfaces of the bushings. equipped) on top of the spring assembly.
7. Place the U-bolts over the axle stop and spring side, insert the spring pin far enough into
assembly and through the holes in the axle. It the bushing to hold the spacers in place.
may be necessary to slightly compress the sides Hold the remaining spacers in place and
of the U-bolts in order to get the U-bolt ends to push the pin until its grooves align with
align with the axle holes. A C-clamp attached the shackle pinch-bolt bores.
above the U-bolt threads can be used for this
purpose. With threaded spring pins, screw the pin
all the way into the bushing with the
8. Attach the hardened washers and the high nuts grease fitting end toward the outboard
finger-tight. side until the spring pin grooves align with
the shackle pinchbolt bores. Install the
9. Attach the spring assembly to the frame bracket.
split ring on the inboard end of the pin.
9.1 With nonthreaded spring pins, hold the
10.2 With nonthreaded spring pins, check for
correct number of spacing washers, as
play between the spring and the shackle
referenced during removal, between the
ends. If needed, install additional 1/32-
outboard end of the bracket and the
inch spacing washers (1-1/8 inch i.d.,
spring; insert the grease fitting end of the
1-7/8 inch o.d.) so that there is less than
pin far enough into the bushing to hold
one washer thickness of end play. It is
the spacers in place. Hold the remaining
preferable to have an equal number of
spacers in place and push the spring pin
washers on each side of the spring. How-
in until its grooves align with the frame
ever, if the amount of play requires an
bracket’s flanged pinch-bolt bores.
uneven number of washers, the differ-
With threaded pins, screw the pin all the ence between the two sides should be no
way into the bushing with the grease fit- more than one spacing washer.
ting end toward the outboard side until
10.3 With both threaded and nonthreaded
the spring pin grooves align with the
spring pins, install the flanged pinch bolts
frame bracket’s flanged pinch-bolt bores.
and flanged nuts. Tighten the nuts 95
Install the split ring on the inboard end of
lbf·ft (130 N·m).
the pin.
9.2 With nonthreaded spring pins, check for CAUTION
play between the spring and the bracket
ends. If needed, install additional 1/32- Do not overtighten the shackle pinch-bolt nuts.
inch spacing washers (1-1/8 inch i.d., Overtightening these nuts could distort and
1-7/8 inch o.d.) so that there is less than weaken the shackles.
one washer thickness of end play. It is
preferable to have an equal number of 11. Attach the hardened washers and high nuts to
washers on each side of the spring. How- the U-bolts. For U-bolt tightening instructions and
ever, if the amount of play requires an torque values, see the applicable table in Speci-
uneven number of washers, the differ- fications, 400.
ence between the two sides should be no
more than one spacing washer. CAUTION
9.3 Install the flanged pinch bolts and flanged Failure to retorque the fasteners as instructed
nuts. Tighten the nuts 95 lbf·ft (130 N·m). could result in spring breakage and abnormal tire
10. Attach the spring assembly to the shackle wear.
bracket. 12. Wipe all dirt from the grease fittings on the
10.1 With nonthreaded spring pins, hold the spring pins and the shackle pin. Apply multipur-
correct number of spacing washers, as pose chassis grease with a pressure gun until
referenced during removal, between the grease appears at the opposite end of the pin.
outboard shackle and the spring. With the
grease fitting pointed to the outboard
Shackle Bracket Bushing again for ease of fit in the bushing. It should still
screw in easily by hand without binding. If bind-
Replacement ing occurs, the bushing may have been distorted
during installation. Replace the bushing and
1. With the shackle bracket removed from the ve- check again for correct fit.
hicle, press out the worn or damaged bushing.
2. With an inside micrometer or bore gauge, check Spring Bushing Replacement
the bracket bore for damage or wear. Replace
the bracket if the bushing bore is damaged or 1. Remove the leaf spring. See Subject 100 for
worn. instructions
3. If installing rubber bushings, check the shackle 2. Press out the worn or damaged bushing.
bracket bolt for ease of fit in the bushing. It
should have an easy slip fit without wobble be-
tween it and the bushing.
CAUTION
Do not press in the bushing by the center sleeve.
CAUTION To do so could damage the bushing.
3. If installing rubber bushings, apply a coating of
Do not press in rubber bushings by the center
sleeve. To do so could damage the bushings. Perma-Bond® HM–160 or Loctite® RC–609 adhe-
sive to the inside of the spring eye, and to the
4. Press the new bushing into the bracket until the outside of the bushing. Press the new bushing
bushing is centered in the bracket. into the spring eye until the bushing is flush with
the edges of the spring eye.
5. Check the shackle bracket bolt again for ease of
fit in the bushing. It should still have an easy slip If installing bronze bushings, press the new
fit without wobble between it and the bushing. If bushing into the spring eye until the bushing and
binding occurs, the bushing may have been dis- the spring edges are flush. The split in the bush-
torted during installation. Replace the bushing ing must be within 3/16 inch (5 mm) of the top of
and check again for correct fit. the spring eye.
6. If installing bronze bushings, check the shackle If installing bushings for threaded spring pins,
pin for ease of fit in the bushing. It should have press the new bushing into the spring eye until
an easy slip fit without wobble between it and the the bushing is flush with the edges of the spring
bushing. eye.
7. Press the new bushing into the bracket until the 4. Install the leaf spring. See Subject 100 for in-
bushing is centered in the bracket. The bushing structions.
ends must be flush or inside the vertical edges of
the bracket bore, and the split in the bushing
must be within 1/4 inch (6 mm) of the bottom of
the bracket bore.
Check the shackle pin again for ease of fit in the
bushing. It should still have an easy slip fit with-
out wobble between it and the bushing. If binding
occurs, the bushing may have been distorted
during installation. Replace the bushing and
check again for correct fit.
8. If installing threaded shackle pins, check the fit of
the threaded pin in the bushing. It should screw
in easily by hand without binding. Press the new
bushing into the bracket until the bushing is cen-
tered in the bracket. Check the threaded pin
9
10
18
19
20
10
9
21 10 8
19
10
22 9 17
10
10
17
14
13 8
12
16
10
11
15
9 7
10 9
10
8 5
2
1
08/18/2000 f320859
spacer adjustments will have minimal effect on 10. Figure 3 represents a checklist for weak or sag-
lean and other actions are required. If the end of ging springs.
frame to ground measurements are less than 3/8
Use this checklist as the information may be re-
inch (9.53 mm) difference, correct the lean by
increasing the low side front axle spacer thick- quested when filing a warranty claim.
ness by no more than 1/2 inch (13 mm). Use a
45, 55, or 65-mm spacer in place of the existing Part Description Part Number Quantity
spacer. Axle Spacer, 45 16-15105-040 As Required
mm
See Table 1 for parts information.
Axle Spacer, 55 16-15105-055 As Required
9. Check the frame height again. If the difference mm
between measurements is still equal to or
greater than 3/8 inch (9.53 mm), swap springs Axle Spacer, 65 16-15105-065 As Required
mm
from side to side and check the measurements
again. Table 1, Parts Information
Problem—Noisy Spring
Problem—Noisy Spring
Possible Cause Remedy
A loose U-bolt nut or center bolt is Inspect the components for damage. Replace damaged components as
allowing spring leaf slippage. necessary. Torque the fasteners to the values listed in the torque table in
Specifications, 400.
A loose, bent, or broken spring shackle or Inspect the shackles and brackets for damage. Replace damaged
front suspension bracket is impairing the components as necessary. Torque the fasteners to the values listed in the
spring flex. torque table in Specifications, 400.
Worn or damaged spring pins are allowing Replace any worn or damaged spring pins.
spring end-play.
Problem—Rough Ride
Problem—Rough Ride
Possible Cause Remedy
Refer to the applicable suspension section in this manual.
09/23/2009 f040801
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783
General Description
The single-axle rear spring suspension ( Fig. 1) uses
a full-floating spring design. Semi-elliptical spring as-
semblies are attached to the axles with U-bolt as-
semblies. The spring ends ride in aluminum brackets
that are mounted on the frame rails. Steel wear
shoes are cast into each bracket. Radius rods at-
tached to the axle seats and the forward spring
brackets hold the axle in alignment.
2 1
3 10
4 2 1
11 2
12
5
6
4 2
7
6 13
89
14
6
9 18
6
5
15
16
17
06/13/94 f320006a
1. Huckbolt HP 8® Frame Fasteners 7. Axle Alignment Washer 13. Leaf Spring Assembly
2. Hardened Washer 8. Radius Rod 14. Spring Seat
3. Forward Spring Bracket 9. Radius Rod Hexhead Bolt 15. U-Bolt Retainer
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 10. U-Bolt 16. Hardened Washer
5. Radius Rod Hexhead Bolt 11. U-Bolt Pad 17. U-Bolt High Nut
6. Hardened Washer 12. Spring Liner 18. Rear Spring Bracket
12 3 4 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 2 1 CAUTION
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion
of the metals, resulting in damage to the suspen-
sion.
A
1. Place the radius rod pins between the rear side
of the forward spring bracket, and the front side
of the axle seat.
2. Install the hexhead bolts, hardened washers, and
12 3 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 2 1
locknuts in the axle seat and the radius rod rear
pin.
3. Install any previously removed axle alignment
washers between the radius rod front pin and the
forward spring bracket. Install the hexhead bolts,
B
hardened washers, and locknuts in the radius
08/23/95 f320007a rod front pin and the forward spring bracket.
A. Right-Side Radius Rod
B. Left-Side Radius Rod 4. Tighten the radius rod locknuts to the torque
1. Hex Locknut
value in Specifications, 400.
2. Hardened Washer 5. Check the axle alignment. For instructions, see
3. Forward Spring Bracket Group 35 in this manual. If necessary, adjust the
4. Alignment Washers (install only on one side; right- rear axle alignment, using the instructions in
side installation shown.)
5. Radius Rod Front Pin
Subject 130.
6. Hexbolt
7. Radius Rod Rear Pin
8. Axle Seat
2 1
3 10
4 2 1
11 2
12
5
6
4 2
7
6 13
89
14
6
9 18
6
5
15
16
17
06/13/94 f320006a
1. Huckbolt HP 8® Frame Fastener 7. Axle Alignment Washer 13. Leaf Spring Assembly
2. Hardened Washer 8. Radius Rod 14. Spring Seat
3. Forward Spring Bracket 9. Radius Rod Hexhead Bolt 15. U-Bolt Retainer
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 10. U-Bolt 16. Hardened Washer
5. Radius Rod Hexhead Bolt 11. U-Bolt Pad 17. U-Bolt High Nut
6. Hardened Washer 12. Spring Liner 18. Rear Spring Bracket
Replacement board side of the frame rail, and install the nuts
for the bottom four bolts on the inboard side of
the frame rail. See Fig. 1.
WARNING
If installing the rear spring bracket, install the
Replace worn, cracked, or damaged spring brack- nuts for the top two bolts on the outboard side
ets. Failure to do so could result in bracket of the frame rail, and install the nuts for the bot-
breakage, possibly leading to loss of vehicle con- tom two bolts on the inboard side of the frame
trol and resulting in personal injury or property rail. See Fig. 1.
damage.
6. Tighten the locknuts to the applicable torque
IMPORTANT: At all points where steel parts (in- value in Specifications, 400.
cluding bolts, washers, and nuts) contact the
aluminum spring brackets, apply Alumilastic®
compound, or an equivalent, on the mating sur- 1
faces.
CAUTION
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an 2
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion
of the metals, resulting in damage to the suspen-
sion.
1. Chock the front tires.
A
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and block the rear
axle with safety stands. Raise the vehicle frame
so that all weight is removed from the leaf 1
springs, then block the frame with safety stands.
Make sure the stands will securely support the
weight of the axle and frame. 3
Torque Values
Torque
Description Size IFI Grade
lbf·ft (N·m)
Forward Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 3/4–10 C 240 (325)
Stage 1: Hand tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
7/8–14 C
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Axle U-bolt High Nuts Stage 4: 420–500 (571–680)
Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown in Fig. 1. Stage 1: Hand tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
1–14 C
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 520–600 (707–816)
Rear Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 5/8–11 C 135 (184)
Radius Rod Locknut * 5/8–18 C 135 (184)
* Cadmium-plated, wax-coated nuts, and grade 8 hexbolts with phosphate- and oil-coated threads; both used with hardened washers.
4 1
01/05/99
2 3
f320783
General Description
The tandem-axle rear spring suspension ( Fig. 1)
uses a six-point equalizing leaf spring design, which
compensates for axle articulation, from side to side,
and front to rear. Four semi-elliptical spring assem-
blies are attached to the axles with U-bolts. On both
sides of the vehicle, the forward end of the forward
spring and the rear end of the rear spring ride in alu-
minum brackets that are mounted on the frame rails.
Steel wear shoes are cast into each bracket.
At the center, between the forward and rear springs,
the springs ride on an equalizer, which pivots on a
sleeve in the equalizer bracket. Equalizer travel is
stopped when the top of the equalizer and equalizer
bracket make contact. Each axle is held in alignment
by a pair of radius rods that extend forward from the
axle seats to the forward spring brackets for the
forward-rear axle, and to the equalizer brackets for
the rearmost axle.
2 1
3 10
22
4 2
11
12 2 2 4
6 1
8 9 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 5 6 19
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6
9
14
9 21
6 6
5
15
16
17
06/09/94 f320001a
1. Huckbolt HP 8® Frame Fasteners 9. Radius Rod Hexbolt 17. U-Bolt High Nut
2. Hardened Washer 10. U-Bolt 18. Equalizer Bracket
3. Forward Spring Bracket 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Equalizer, One-Piece (tandem
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 12. Spring Liner drive axles)
5. Radius Rod Hex Locknut 13. Leaf Spring Assembly 20. Rear Radius Rod
6. Hardened Washer 14. Spring Seat 21. Rear spring Bracket
7. Axle Alignment Washer 15. U-Bolt Retainer 22. Equalizer, Three-Piece (tag or
8. Forward Radius Rod 16. Hardened Washer pusher axle)
A B
12 3 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 13 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
C D
04/11/95 f320002a
A. Forward Right-Side Radius Rod C. Forward Left-Side Radius Rod D. Rear Left-Side Radius Rod
B. Rear Right-Side Radius Rod
1. Hex Locknut 5. Forward Spring Bracket 11. Rear Radius-Rod Rear Pin
2. Hardened Washer 6. Hexbolt 12. Rear Axle Seat
3. Forward Radius-Rod Front Pin 7. Forward Radius Rod Rear Pin 13. Alignment Washers (Install only
4. Alignment Washers (Install only 8. Forward Axle Seat on one side of rear axle; left-side
on one side of front axle; right- 9. Equalizer Bracket installation shown.)
side installation shown.) 10. Rear Radius-Rod Front Pin
Removal (See Fig. 1) board end of each spring retainer pin, then re-
move the retainer pins.
If removing an equalizer from a vehicle with a
pusher or tag axle, remove the nuts from the flat-
1
A head bolts in the wear-shoe side-restraints, on
A 3 9 each end of the equalizer. Remove the flathead
bolts and side-restraint sleeves. Remove the six
8 capscrews and washers, and remove both wear-
6 7 5 shoe side-restraints from the equalizer.
4. Remove the cap and tube assembly locknut, in-
board bearing washer, bolt, and outboard bearing
B 5
washer.
4 11 10
3
5. Insert a bar between the bottom of the equalizer
12 and the equalizer bracket. Gently lever the
2 13 weight of the equalizer off the cap and tube as-
3
sembly. Insert a piece of barstock through the
inboard cap and tube assembly bolt hole, and
lightly tap the cap and tube assembly out of the
7 9 equalizer.
14
15 6. Remove the equalizer from the equalizer bracket.
16
03/11/96 f320003a Remove the wear washer(s) and equalizer bush-
ings from the equalizer.
A. Apply Loctite here. B. No grease.
1. Equalizer Bracket 9. Locknut
2. Hexhead Bolt 10. Spring Retainer Pin Inspection
3. Bearing Washer 11. Cotter Pin
4. Cap and Tube 12. Equalizer (used on 1. Thoroughly clean the equalizer with steam or a
Assembly vehicles with a tag or hot soap solution. Inspect it for wear, cracks,or
5. Equalizer Assembly pusher axle) other damage. Replace the equalizer if any of
Bushing 13. Capscrew these conditions are present.
6. Equalizer (used on 14. Wear-Shoe Side-
vehicles with two Restraint
drive axles) 15. Side-Restraint CAUTION
7. Grease Fitting Sleeve
8. Wear Washer(s) 16. Flathead Bolt Failure to replace the equalizer if it is cracked or
otherwise damaged could result in progressive
Fig. 1, Equalizer Assembly damage to, and eventual breakage of the equal-
1. Chock the front tires. izer. Breakage of the equalizer could cause a loss
of vehicle control, resulting in personal injury or
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and block the axles property damage.
with safety stands. Raise the vehicle frame so
that all weight is removed from the leaf springs, 2. Inspect the equalizer bushings, cap and tube as-
then block the frame with safety stands. Make sembly, and the equalizer bracket for wear,
sure the stands will securely support the weight cracks, or other damage. If any of these condi-
of the axles and frame. To allow access to the tions are present, replace the bushings or the
equalizer, remove the wheel assemblies on that cap and tube assembly.
side, using the instructions in Group 40 in this
manual.
3. If removing an equalizer from a vehicle with two
drive axles, remove the cotter pin from the out-
Installation (See Fig. 1) them toward the inboard side of the equalizer.
Tighten the equalizer wear-shoe capscrews to
the torque value in Specifications, 400. Install
1. Apply a thin film of multipurpose chassis grease
the side-restraint sleeves and flathead bolts in
to the outside of the equalizer bushings, then
the wear-shoe side-restraints. Be sure the
install the bushings in the equalizer.
hooked ends of the spring leaves are above the
2. Install the equalizer in the equalizer bracket. side-restraint sleeves. Install the nuts, and
tighten them to the applicable torque value in
NOTE: The next four steps must be completed Specifications, 400.
before the Loctite begins to cure (approximately
5 to 10 minutes).
CAUTION
3. Apply Loctite 680 to both interior surfaces of the
equalizer bracket, where the cap and tube as- Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
sembly is inserted. Apply multipurpose chassis equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
grease to the cap and tube assembly, except the contact each other, could lead to corrosion of the
last inch which connects to the equalizer bracket. metals, resulting in suspension damage.
Start the cap and tube assembly into the equal- 9. Install the wheel assemblies. For instructions,
izer, through the equalizer bracket. see Group 40 in this manual. Remove the safety
4. Push the cap and tube assembly part way stands from under the frame and axle, and lower
through the equalizer, then place the wear wash- the vehicle.
er(s) between the inboard equalizer bushing and 10. If the radius rods have been loosened, or the
the equalizer bracket. Push the cap and tube equalizer bracket has been removed, check the
assembly the rest of the way into the equalizer rear axle alignment. For instructions, see
bracket. Group 35 in this manual. If necessary, adjust the
5. Place the outboard bearing washer on the equal- axle alignment using the instructions in Sub-
izer cap and tube assembly bolt, and install the ject 140.
bolt in the cap and tube assembly.
6. Install the inboard bearing washer and locknut on
the cap and tube assembly bolt. Tighten the lock-
nut to the torque value in Specifications, 400.
7. Lubricate the equalizer assembly by applying
multipurpose chassis grease at the grease fitting.
Lubricate with a hand gun or pressure gun until
grease is forced past the bushing seals, or if
equipped with a pressure-relief grease fitting,
until grease is forced out from the base of the
pressure relief fitting.
8. If installing an equalizer on a vehicle with two
drive axles, apply Alumilastic compound, or an
equivalent, to the spring retainer pins, then install
them from the inboard side. Be sure the hooked
ends of the spring leaves are above the retainer
pins. Install a cotter pin in the outboard end of
each retainer pin, and lock it in place.
If installing an equalizer on a vehicle with a
pusher or tag axle, apply Alumilastic compound,
or an equivalent, to the surfaces where the wear-
shoe side-restraints contact the equalizer. Attach
the side-restraints to the equalizer, offsetting
Replacement (See Fig. 1) 8. If the upper U-bolt pad is aluminum, apply Alumi-
lastic compound, or an equivalent, to those areas
of the pad that will come in contact with the
WARNING U-bolts and with the upper spring leaf.
2 1
3 10
22
4 2
11
12 2 2 4
6 1
8 9 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 5 6 19
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6
9
14
9 21
6 6
5
15
16
17
06/09/94 f320001a
1. Huckbolt HP 8® Frame Fasteners 9. Radius Rod Hexbolt 17. U-Bolt High Nut
2. Hardened Washer 10. U-Bolt 18. Equalizer Bracket
3. Forward Spring Bracket 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Equalizer, One-Piece (tandem
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 12. Spring Liner drive axles)
5. Radius Rod Hex Locknut 13. Leaf Spring Assembly 20. Rear Radius Rod
6. Hardened Washer 14. Spring Seat 21. Rear spring Bracket
7. Axle Alignment Washer 15. U-Bolt Retainer 22. Equalizer, Three-Piece (tag or
8. Forward Radius Rod 16. Hardened Washer pusher axle)
2 1
3 10
22
4 2
11
12 2 2 4
6 1
8 9 10
5
6
18
7 13
9 14 5 6 19
6
1
11 2
6 12
5
2
4
15
16
7 20 13
17
6
9
14
9 21
6 6
5
15
16
17
06/09/94 f320001a
1. Huckbolt HP 8® Frame Fasteners 9. Radius Rod Hexbolt 17. U-Bolt High Nut
2. Hardened Washer 10. U-Bolt 18. Equalizer Bracket
3. Forward Spring Bracket 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Equalizer, One-Piece (tandem
4. Suspension Bracket Hex Locknut 12. Spring Liner drive axles)
5. Radius Rod Hex Locknut 13. Leaf Spring Assembly 20. Rear Radius Rod
6. Hardened Washer 14. Spring Seat 21. Rear spring Bracket
7. Axle Alignment Washer 15. U-Bolt Retainer 22. Equalizer, Three-Piece (tag or
8. Forward Radius Rod 16. Hardened Washer pusher axle)
1
2
A B
C
05/09/95 f320004a
12 3 4 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
A B
12 3 5 2 6 6 2 7 8 21 12 9 13 10 2 6 6 2 11 12 2 1
C D
04/11/95 f320002a
A. Forward Right-Side Radius Rod C. Forward Left-Side Radius Rod D. Rear Left-Side Radius Rod
B. Rear Right-Side Radius Rod
1. Hex Locknut 5. Forward Spring Bracket 11. Rear Radius-Rod Rear Pin
2. Hardened Washer 6. Hexbolt 12. Rear Axle Seat
3. Forward Radius-Rod Front Pin 7. Forward Radius Rod Rear Pin 13. Alignment Washers (Install only
4. Alignment Washers (Install only 8. Forward Axle Seat on one side of rear axle; left-side
on one side of front axle; right- 9. Equalizer Bracket installation shown.)
side installation shown.) 10. Rear Radius-Rod Front Pin
approximate distance that the leading end of the 19. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
rearmost axle will have to be adjusted rearward, Remove the chocks from the front tires.
or that the trailing end will have to be adjusted
forward, to align it at a right angle to the frame, 20. Using the center-point bar, check the rearmost
and to align it parallel to the forward-rear axle. axle alignment. If alignment is within specifica-
See Fig. 1. tions, center the spring in the rear spring bracket,
if needed, then tighten the axle U-bolt nuts to the
12. On both sides of the rearmost axle, loosen the applicable torque value in Specifications, 400.
axle U-bolts enough to allow the springs to shift
on the axle seats. If not in alignment, repeat the applicable steps
above.
13. On the side of the vehicle that is to be adjusted,
remove the fasteners that attach the rear radius
rod to the equalizer bracket. Remove any axle
CAUTION
alignment washers. Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
14. Raise the frame just enough to relieve the weight teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
from the springs. Place safety stands under the age to the springs, spring brackets, and frame
frame. Make sure the stands will securely sup- rail.
port the weight of the frame. IMPORTANT: All standard suspension fasteners
15. Move the loosened end of the axle forward or require periodic torquing. For suspension com-
backward, by rolling the wheels. Move the axle ponent inspecting and fastener torque checking
just enough to provide space to allow installation intervals and instructions, see Group 32 in the
of alignment washers between the equalizer Columbia Maintenance Manual.
bracket and the radius rod pin.
16. Between one end of the radius rod pin and the
equalizer bracket, insert the additional thickness
of alignment washers needed to make up for the
difference in center-point bar measurements.
For example, if one end of the axle was
equipped with a 3/16-inch (4.5-mm) thickness of
washers, and the difference in the center-point
bar measurements is 1/4 inch (6 mm) less on
that side, add an additional 1/4 inch (6 mm) of
washers (for a total of 7/16 inch [10.5 mm]) to
correct the alignment.
Or, if one end of the axle was equipped with a
1/4-inch thickness of washers, and the difference
in center-point bar measurements is 3/16 inch
(4.5 mm) more on that side, install a 1/16-inch
(1.6-mm) thickness of washers in place of the
1/4-inch (6-mm) thickness.
17. Install the bolt, hardened washers, and locknut in
the equalizer bracket and the radius rod pin.
Place an equal thickness of alignment washers
on the other end of the radius rod pin, and install
the fasteners at that end.
18. Tighten the radius rod locknuts to the torque
value in Specifications, 400.
Torque Values
Torque
Description Size IFI Grade lbf·ft (N·m)
Equalizer Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 3/4–10 C 240 (325)
Forward Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 3/4–10 C 240 (325)
Rear Spring Bracket-to-Frame Rail Locknut * 5/8–11 C 135 (184)
Stage 1: Hand tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
7/8–14 C
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Axle U-bolt High Nuts Stage 4: 420–500 (571–680)
Tighten in a diagonal pattern as shown in Fig. 1. Stage 1: Hand tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
1–14 C
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 4: 520–600 (707–816)
Radius Rod Locknut * 5/8–18 C 135 (184)
Equalizer Cap and Tube Assembly Locknut * 3/4–16 C 270 (365)
Equalizer Wear Shoe Capscrew 5/8–11 8 135 (184)
Side-Restraint Sleeve Locknut 1/2–13 C 68 (93)
* Cadmium-plated, wax-coated nuts, and grade 8 hexbolts with phosphate- and oil-coated threads; both used with hardened washers.
4 1
03/10/2011
2 3
f320783
General Description
There are two terms used to describe rough ride
conditions: harmonic and harsh. Harmonic ride prob-
lems are those in which the once-per-revolution en-
ergy input from such things as bent or imbalanced
wheels match the natural frequency of the frame flex-
ing. This produces a fore-and-aft motion in the cab,
which continues as long as the critical road speed is
maintained. Harmonic ride problems can occur on
smooth roads.
Harsh ride problems are those in which the suspen-
sion transfers, rather than absorbs, the momentary
energy inputs produced when the tires hit bumps or
holes in the road. Wavy asphalt, or a series of
bumps, may cause repetition of the harsh, jarring
motion in the cab, but the motion stops after the tires
pass over the bumps. Harsh ride problems occur on
rough roads.
This section is designed for use as an aid in locating
and correcting rough ride problems. It is not intended
for use as a replacement for the detailed service in-
formation located in the applicable subjects in this
manual, or in the component manufacturer’s service
manuals.
NOTE: When test driving the vehicle, duplicate 3. Raise the vehicle until the tires are off the
ground, and all of the weight is removed from the
as closely as possible the conditions under
leaf springs. Block the axle and frame with safety
which the problem occurs. Note the area of the stands. Perform the corrections under "Harsh
vehicle where the problem seems to be coming Ride, Tires Off the Ground" in Troubleshoot-
from. Pay special attention to this area during ing, 300.
the service operations.
4. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
and axle, then lower the vehicle. Perform the
WARNING corrections under "Harsh Ride, Tires On the
Ground" in Troubleshooting, 300.
Use safety stands to securely support all of the
wheel and frame weight during suspension re- 5. If the problem persists, perform the harmonic
pairs. Unsecured components may drop when ride checks in this subject. Occasionally, ride
the fasteners are loosened or removed, causing problems associated with rough roads are har-
serious personal injury and component damage. monic ride problems masked by the road condi-
tions.
3. Raise the vehicle until the tires are off the
ground, and all of the weight is removed from the
leaf springs. Block the axle and frame with safety
stands. Perform the corrections under "Harmonic
Ride, Tires Off the Ground" in Troubleshoot-
ing, 300.
4. Remove the safety stands from under the frame
and axle, then lower the vehicle. Perform the
corrections under "Harmonic Ride, Tires On the
Ground" in Troubleshooting, 300.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Harmonic Ride, Tires Off the Ground
Problem—Harmonic Ride, Tires Off the
Ground
Possible Cause Remedy
Bent, distorted, or out-of-round wheels or Inspect and repair the assemblies using the instructions in Group 40 in this
rims are causing a rough ride. manual.
Bent, distorted, or out-of-round brake Replace damaged components using the instructions in Group 33 or
drums or hubs are causing a rough ride. Group 35 in this manual.
An improperly seated tire-to-rim bead is Inspect the tires and rims for proper bead seating. Correct the problem using
causing an out-of-round assembly. the instructions in Group 40 in this manual.
A tire and rim assembly on spoke wheels Remove and install the tire and rim assembly using the instructions in
is improperly installed, causing an out-of- Group 40 in this manual.
round assembly.
Worn or distorted rim spacers are causing Replace damaged spacers using the instructions in Group 40 in this manual.
an out-of-round assembly.
The wheels, brake drums, or hub Inspect the components for missing balance weights. Balance, as necessary.
assemblies are out of balance.
Radial force variations in the tires are Exchange the tires and wheels with a set that is known to cause no ride
causing a rough ride. problems. If this corrects the problem, discard the old tires. For instructions,
see Group 40 in this manual.
General Information 2
Ride Height Adjustment top of the U-bolt pad and the bottom of the axle
stop (distance B).
IMPORTANT: Before checking the suspension 5. Measure the distance between either forward-
height, make sure there is no load on the chas- most axle stop and the suspension using the di-
sis. For tractors, unhitch the trailer. Trucks must mension indicated in the drawing or figure for the
be empty. suspension.
Vehicles with dual ride height control valves follow 6. If the distance is within the acceptable range, no
the same procedure as single valves, but with two adjustment is needed. Apply the parking brakes.
height gauge blocks, and both height control valves If the measurement is not within the acceptable
adjusted simultaneously. Both linkages should be range, go to the next step.
disconnected when adjusting, and both valves should
be repositioned once the correct ride height has
been reached on both sides.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, using a light
application of the brakes. Set the parking brake
and chock the tires. Put the transmission in neu-
tral. Build the secondary air pressure to at least
100 psi (690 kPa). Shut down the engine.
2. Space the tire chocks 2 inches (5 cm) ahead and
behind the tire so the vehicle can roll 2 inches in
either direction. A
11. Unpin the valve lever and use it to lower the sus-
pension until the axle stop rests on the block.
(For dual valves, unpin and lower with both val-
ves.)
12. Move the lever to neutral and pin. (For dual val-
ves, pin both.) The vehicle should now be at the
target ride height.
09/28/2005 f321046a
A B
09/27/2005 f320933a
13. While holding the height-control valve mounting 14. Adjust the position of the valve body until the
studs in place with an Allen wrench, loosen the lever—still pinned in neutral position—can con-
nuts that attach the valve to the mounting brac- nect to the linkage. Attach the linkage. The
ket. See Figure 2. linkage rod should be vertical, and the valve
body should now be in the correct position for
the vehicle’s ride height. (For dual valves, adjust
NOTICE and connect both.)
When loosening a Barksdale height-control valve If the linkage cannot reach the stud, check the
from a mounting bracket, always hold the valve- surrounding components for bent or damaged
side mounting studs in place with an Allen parts and remedy as needed.
wrench while loosening or tightening the nuts
that attach the valve to the bracket. Because the 15. While holding the height-control valve mounting
mounting studs are threaded into the valve body, studs in place with an Allen wrench, tighten the
loosening the nuts without holding the studs can nuts 95 lbf·in (1100 N·cm). Do not overtighten, as
tighten the studs, which can crush the valve that could damage the valve.
body and damage the valve. Conversely, tighte- 16. Disconnect the linkage from the valve lever stud.
ning the nuts without holding the studs can back (For dual valves, disconnect both.)
the studs out, causing a separation of the two
halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak. 17. Raise the valve lever to raise the suspension
enough to remove the block, then pin the valve
Fig. 1, Inserting a 5/32-inch drill bit or nylon rod to lock Fig. 2, Holding the height control valve mounting stud
the arm in neutral position. in place with an Allen wrench when loosening the nut.
lever in neutral position. (For dual valves, raise on one axle only, and put the transmission in
and pin both valves.) neutral. Do not apply the parking brakes.
18. Remove the block. (For dual valves, remove both 21. Check the ride height of the vehicle again, mea-
blocks.) suring where indicated in the drawing or figure
19. Remove the pin or drill bit holding the height- for the suspension.
control lever in neutral position, then connect the If the distance is within the acceptable range, the
valve lever to the linkage. (For dual valve, unpin ride height is correctly set. Apply the parking
and connect both valve levers.) brakes.
20. Drive the vehicle unloaded for about 1/4 mile If the distance is not within the acceptable range,
(1/2 km), then park the vehicle on a level surface repeat the adjustment procedure.
using a light brake application. Chock the tires
A B
09/27/2005 f320934a
A B
11/11/2005 f320932a
Height-Control Valve Checking tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
back the studs out, causing a separation of the
two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
It is normal to hear air escaping from the height-
control valve for as much as 10 minutes after getting
out of the vehicle when it is in an unladen condition. Checking the Height-Control
This air "leaking" is just the height-control valve ex-
hausting air from the suspension air springs in order
Valve Without Using a Test Kit
to return to the neutral mode.
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
The height-control valves used on the Columbia are
Barksdale valves. Two methods are available to 2. Run the engine to build vehicle air pressure to at
check the operation of the Barksdale height-control least 100 psi (690 kPa).
valves. A leak in the valve may be discovered without 3. Shut off the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes for
using a test kit, but a test kit is necessary to deter- the air suspension system to equalize.
mine if the valve has an unacceptable rate of le-
akage. NOTE: Normal operation of the height-control
valve requires a maximum of 10 minutes to
Some Barksdale height-control valves have been re- settle. Any air leakage during this time is consi-
turned for warranty because the four bolts in the dered normal, and does not indicate a defective
valve housing were overtightened, often, enough to
valve.
crack the valve housing. These bolts should not be
loose, and should not normally require tightening, as 4. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the control
there are no serviceable parts in the valve. lever; see Fig. 1.
IMPORTANT: To prevent voiding the warranty
on Barksdale height-control valves, note the fo- 2
llowing:
• Do not overtighten the bolts in the Barks- 3
dale height-control valve housing if you
4
detect leaks in the housing. The bolts
1
should not be loose, and should not re-
quire tightening. Only if necessary, tighten
the valve housing bolts 45 lbf·in (500 5
N·cm). Any damage to the valve housing
will void the warranty. 6
6. Return the control lever to the neutral position. settle. Any air leakage during this time is consi-
Air should stop flowing. If so, that section of the dered normal, and does not indicate a defective
valve is working. valve.
7. Push the control lever down about 45 degrees 4. For valves without an integral dump port, go to
for 6 to 8 seconds. If air exhausts from the valve, the next step.
that section of the valve is working.
For valves with an integral dump port, check the
8. Return the control lever to the neutral position. If rubber exhaust flapper at the back of the valve
the air stops again in the neutral position, the housing for leaks; see Fig. 2. Use a soapy solu-
valve is working correctly. tion.
9. If the valve works as stated in all of the above If a leak is found, there may be contaminants
steps, then no further checking is necessary. blocking the piston. Cycle the height-control
Connect the vertical linkage to the control lever, valve switch inside the cab for two-second
then tighten the linkage nut. bursts, four or five times, to clear away any con-
If needed, adjust the ride height or replace the taminants.
height-control valve. For adjustment of the ride
height, see Subject 100. For replacement of the
height-control valve, see Subject 130.
NOTE: If a leak is detected on a Barksdale
height-control valve, go to "Checking the Height-
Control Valve Using a Test Kit". Barksdale val-
ves have an acceptable leak rate of 3 cubic in-
ches (50 cc) per minute. You can determine if a
leak is acceptable only by using the Barksdale
test kit.
IMPORTANT: The procedure described below is Fig. 2, Exhaust Flap Location (height-control valve with
integral dump port)
for use on Barksdale height-control valves only.
NOTE: The Barksdale field test kit is designed 5. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the horizon-
tal control lever.
to be used with the height-control valve installed
on the vehicle. Refer to Specifications 400 for 6. Rotate and hold the horizontal control lever down
information on ordering the Barksdale height- at about 45 degrees to exhaust air from the air
control valve test kit KD2264. springs.
1. If not already done, park the vehicle on a level 7. If equipped with an integral dump port, turn on
surface, apply the parking brakes, and chock the the quick dump switch on the dash. Leave the
tires. switch on until testing is complete.
2. Run the engine to build vehicle air pressure to at If not equipped with an integral dump port, dis-
least 100 psi (690 kPa). connect the air lines from the air spring ports on
the height-control valve. Leave the elbow fittings
3. Shut off the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes for (if equipped) in place. Install a Parker plug into
the air suspension system to equalize. each air spring port (or elbow fitting); see Fig. 3.
NOTE: Normal operation of the height-control 8. If a flapper is present on the exhaust port of the
valve requires a maximum of 10 minutes to height-control valve, remove it using needlenose
pliers.
7
3 A
2 1
2 1
4 6
B
10/08/2007 f321105
A. Fill B. Exhaust
1. Air Spring Port 4. Exhaust Port Test Fitting 6. Reset Button
2. Parker Plug 5. Air Line 7. Test Gauge Assembly
3. Air Intake Port
9. Clean the surface around the exhaust port, then exhaust pressure change versus inlet
install the test fitting into the exhaust port. The pressure.
centering pin on the fitting must align with the
The valve is not working correctly if the
slot on the exhaust port. Rotate the test fitting 45
gauge pressure reading exceeds the
degrees clockwise to lock it in place; see Fig. 3.
maximum allowable within 30 seconds.
NOTE: It may be necessary to cut the tie straps
If the gauge reads less than the maximum
that hold the chassis wiring running below the allowable pressure change in 30 seconds,
height-control valve, in order to access the ex- the valve is okay.
haust port.
NOTE: The test gauge will register the exhaus-
10. Connect one end of the air hose from the kit to ting air. This does not indicate a defective valve.
the test connector on the exhaust port, and the
other end to the test gauge. 12. Check the height-control valve in the exhaust
mode, as follows.
11. Check the height-control valve in the fill mode,
as follows. 12.1 Rotate the valve control lever down 45
degrees from the horizontal to the exhaust
11.1 Rotate the valve control lever up 45 de- position.
grees from the horizontal to the fill posi-
tion. 12.2 Press the reset button on the test gauge.
11.2 Press the reset button on the test gauge. 12.3 Observe the test gauge for 30 seconds.
Refer to Fig. 4 for the maximum allowable
11.3 Observe the test gauge for 30 seconds.
Refer to Fig. 4 for the maximum allowable
PSI
EXHAUST PRESSURE CHANGE
25
MAXIMUM ALLOWANCE
20
15
INLET PRESSURE
06/22/2007 f321039a
2. Drain all air from the air tanks. 1. Forward Drive Axle 5. Horizontal Control
2. Valve Mounting Lever
Bracket 6. Stud Bolt
WARNING 3. Height-Control Valve 7. Vertical Linkage
4. Pilot Hole
Air lines under pressure can whip dangerously if
disconnected. Drain all air from the air tanks be- Fig. 1, Barksdale Height-Control Valve
fore disconnecting air lines. Disconnecting pres-
surized air lines can cause personal injury and/or
property damage. CAUTION
3. Remove the nut and washer that attaches the When removing or loosening a Barksdale height-
vertical linkage to the horizontal control lever. control valve from a mounting bracket, always
Disconnect the vertical linkage from the control hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
lever; see Fig. 1. an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the
4. Rotate and hold the horizontal control lever down nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
until all air is exhausted from the air springs. the mounting studs are threaded into the valve
body, loosening the nuts without holding the
5. Disconnect the air lines at the height-control studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the
valve, and mark the lines for later reference. valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
Using tape, cover the open ends of the air lines tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
and fittings to prevent dirt or foreign material back the studs out, causing a separation of the
from entering. two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
IMPORTANT: For quick-connect tube fittings, do 6. While holding the height-control valve mounting
not remove the tube by cutting it close to the studs in place with an Allen wrench, remove the
fitting. If the remaining part of the tube cannot nuts and washers that attach the valve to the
be pulled from the fitting, the fitting will not be mounting bracket. Remove the height-control
reusable and the warranty on that unit will be valve.
void. 7. Position the new height-control valve on the
height-control bracket. While holding the height-
control valve mounting studs in place with an
Allen wrench, install the nuts and washers, and
WARNING
Use only the retainers included with the replace-
ment shock absorber. Do not use washers. They
can be extruded over the nut and be ejected vio-
lently, possibly causing personal injury and pro-
perty damage.
6. Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting lock-
nut 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
7. Tighten the shock absorber upper mounting nut
to compress the bushings to the dimension as
shown in Fig. 1.
2 1
11/17/95 f320459
1. Frame Rail
2. Bushings
Air Spring Replacement cross bar) in place. See Fig. 4. Tighten the lock-
nut 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m).
IMPORTANT: Effective March 2011, the steel 6. For bracket-mounted air springs: Attach the air
bead on the inside of the air bag where it atta- spring to the upper mounting bracket, using the
ches to the piston, changed to a square bead to 1/2–13 locknut on the outside of the frame rail
increase the pull-off force between the air bag and the 3/4–16 locknut on the inside. See Fig. 2
and piston. The new air bag is stamped “BD8” . Tighten the 3/4–16 locknut 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m);
tighten the 1/2–13 locknut 23 lbf·ft (31 N·m).
and “Do Not Re-Assemble Rubber Bellow to
Piston.” See Fig. 1. With this design change it is For flange-mounted air springs: Attach the air
not possible to reseat the air bag to the piston. spring to the frame rail flange, using the 3/4–16
In the event of an air bag failure, or separation locknut on the forward stud of the air spring, and
from the piston, the complete air-spring assem- the 1/2–13 locknut on the rear stud. See Fig. 3.
bly must be replaced. For service it is accepta- Tighten the 3/4–16 locknut 45 lbf·ft (61 N·m);
tighten the 1/2–13 locknut 23 lbf·ft (31 N·m).
ble to have a replacement air-spring assembly
on one side of the vehicle, and an older style on 7. Remove the tape from the ends of the air supply
the other side. line, the fitting, and the brass tee. Connect the
air supply line to the air spring. Tighten nylon
NOTE: The air-spring-to-frame-rail mounting tube air fittings until only two threads show on
bracket is not supplied with the air-spring as- the fitting. On wire-braid hose fittings, tighten the
sembly. If it needs to be replaced it must be or- nut with a wrench until there is firm resistance,
dered separately. then tighten one-sixth turn more.
Follow these steps to replace the air-spring and pis- 8. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
ton assembly. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1. Chock the front tires. Raise the vehicle frame
and support it with safety stands to remove all
weight from the air springs. The leveling valve
automatically releases air from the air springs
when all weight is removed from the suspension.
2. Disconnect the air supply line,including the brass
tee, from the air spring. Using tape, cover the
ends of the air supply line and the fitting to pre-
vent dirt or foreign material from entering.
3. Remove the locknuts and washers that connect
the air spring to the upper mounting bracket, or
to the frame rail flange. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
4. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers that
connect the air spring to the rear of the leaf
spring. Remove the air spring. See Fig. 4.
NOTE: Suspensions manufactured to a 46,000-
pound (20 865 kg) or 23,000-pound (10 433 kg)
weight rating have a different leaf spring, and an
additional cross bar attached between the air
spring and rear of the leaf spring. See Fig. 5.
5. Place the new air spring on the rear of the leaf
spring (or the cross bar on the 23,000- and
46,000-pound suspensions), and install the was-
her and locknut that hold the air spring (and
03/15/2011 f321160
A. Caution: Do Not Re-Assemble Rubber Bellow to Piston
A
3
06/08/94 f320133
A. Air line connects here.
1. Right Frame Rail Flange
2. Locknut and Washer 06/08/94 f320134
3. Upper Mounting Bracket
Fig. 4, Capscrew Connecting Leaf Spring and Air
Spring
Fig. 2, Bracket-Mounted Air Spring
2 3
4
06/02/94 f320386 4
1. Frame Rail (left) 3. 1/2–13 Locknut and 3
2. 3/4–16 Locknut and Washer 2
01/17/96 f320504
Washer 4. Air Spring
1. Leaf Spring 3. Cross Bar
Fig. 3, Flange-Mounted Air Spring 2. Leaf Spring 4. Air Spring
Leaf Spring Replacement hanger. Install the bolts, wear shoe clips, was-
hers, alignment shims, and hexnuts. Tighten the
(See Fig. 1) bolts just enough to hold the leaf spring assem-
bly in place.
WARNING 9. If the air spring mounts to the leaf spring, attach
the air spring to the leaf spring assembly. Install
Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged the washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut 55
leaf spring assembly; replace the complete lbf·ft (75 N·m).
spring assembly. Visible damage (cracks or bre-
aks) to one leaf causes hidden damage to other If the air spring mounts to a cross bar, attach the
leaves. Replacement of only the visibly damaged cross bar to the leaf spring assembly. The longer
part(s) is no assurance that the spring is safe. capscrews attach in the forwardmost holes; the
Failure to replace a damaged spring assembly shorter capscrews attach in the aft holes.
could cause an accident resulting in serious per- 10. Making sure that the U-bolt pads are in place on
sonal injury or property damage. the top of the axle, fasten the leaf spring assem-
1. Chock the front tires. bly to the axle using the U-bolts, axle clamp,
washers, and high nuts making sure the U-bolt
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support the pads and axle clamps are positioned correctly.
rear axle(s) with safety stands. Raise the vehicle
so that all weight is removed from the leaf
springs, then securely support the frame with
safety stands. Remove the wheel and tire as-
sembly to easily access the suspension. See
Group 40 in this manual for instructions.
3. Remove the nut, bolt, and washers from the
shock absorber lower mounting bracket. Remove
the high nuts, flatwashers, and axle clamp from
each U-bolt. Support the leaf spring assembly
with a jack.
4. If the air spring mounts to the leaf spring, discon-
nect the bottom of the air spring from the leaf
spring. 1
If the air spring mounts to a cross bar, discon-
nect the cross bar from the leaf spring by remo- 4
ving the capscrews, nuts, and washers. See
Fig. 1. 3
2
01/17/96 f320504
5. Note the number and position of the alignment
shims on the spring mounting bolt. See Fig. 2. 1. Leaf Spring 3. Cross Bar
2. Leaf Spring 4. Air Spring
6. Remove the hexnut, washers, alignment shim(s),
spring mounting bolt, and wear shoe clip from Fig. 1, Leaf Spring and Air Spring Assembly (23,000-
the spring hanger. See Fig. 2. and 46,000-pound suspensions)
24
23
11
2
3 7 12
8
13 22
9
10
14
4 19
5 6
15 21
18 20
16
17
04/27/2011 f320462
1. Frame Rail 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Shock Absorber
2. Spring Hanger 12. U-Bolt 20. Nylon Locknut
3. Washer 13. Axle 21. Washer
4. Hexnut 14. Axle Seat 22. Air Spring
5. Spring Mounting Eye Pin 15. Axle Clamp 23. Air Spring Mounting Bracket
6. Alignment Shim 16. Flatwasher 24. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting
7. Wear Shoe Clip 17. High Nut Bracket
8. Washer 18. Shock Absorber Lower Mounting
9. Spring Mounting Bolt Bracket
10. Leaf Spring Assembly
With both 5- and 3-degree single-drive axle an- N·m). Then, in the same pattern, tighten them
gles, the arrow on the bottom of the axle clamp 200 lbf·ft (271 N·m); then, torque to the final
must point toward the rear of the vehicle. See value of 400 to 460 lbf·ft (542 to 624 N·m).
Fig. 2. For the 23,000-pound and 46,000-pound suspen-
On tandem axle suspensions, refer to Table 1 sions, tighten the high nuts in a diagonal pattern
for U-bolt pad orientation. The arrow on the to a final torque value of 520 to 600 lbf·ft (705 to
813 N·m).
bottom of the axle clamp must point toward the
rear of the vehicle on the forward rear axle and 12. Install the bolt, washers, and hexnut to connect
toward the front of the vehicle on the rearmost the shock absorber to its lower mounting bracket.
axle. Tighten the hexnut 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
11. Hand tighten the high nuts. In a diagonal pattern, 13. Tighten the locknut on the bottom of the air
tighten the axle U-bolt high nuts 60 lbf·ft (81 spring 55 lbf·ft (75 N·m).
On 23,000-pound and 46,000-pound suspen- 16. Check the rear axle alignment. For instructions,
sions, tighten the locknuts on the bottom of the refer to the rear axle section in this manual. If
cross bar 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m). necessary, adjust the rear axle alignment using
the instructions in Subject 180.
14. Tighten the hexnuts at the front of the leaf spring
170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
15. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For instruc-
tions, refer to Group 40 in this manual. Remove
the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
A A
A
04/27/2011 f320139a
A. Axle Bump Stop
Rear Axle Alignment Adjusting 3. When the axle is in alignment, install alignment
shim(s) to take up the slack between the spring
hanger and the spring pin.
See Fig. 1.
Follow the instructions in the rear axle section in this IMPORTANT: Make sure the same number of
manual to see if rear axle alignment adjustment is shims is installed on both ends of the spring pin.
needed. If adjustment is needed, proceed as follows:
24
23
11
2
3 7 12
8
13 22
9
10
14
4 19
5 6
15 21
18 20
16
17
04/27/2011 f320462
1. Frame Rail 11. U-Bolt Pad 19. Shock Absorber
2. Spring Hanger 12. U-Bolt 20. Nylon Locknut
3. Washer 13. Axle 21. Washer
4. Hexnut 14. Axle Seat 22. Air Spring
5. Spring Pin 15. Axle Clamp 23. Air Spring Mounting Bracket
6. Alignment Shim 16. Flatwasher 24. Shock Absorber Upper Mounting
7. Wear Shoe Clip 17. High Nut Bracket
8. Washer 18. Shock Absorber Lower Mounting
9. Spring Pinch Bolt Bracket
10. Leaf Spring Assembly
1. Loosen the spring pinch bolts so that the forward 4. Tighten the spring pinch bolts 170 lbf·ft (230
end of the leaf spring can slide fore and aft in N·m).
the spring hanger. 5. Check the axle alignment again. If necessary,
2. Move the axle forward or backward until it is alig- repeat the above procedure until the alignment is
ned within the tolerances in Group 35 of this within tolerances.
manual.
A 09/03/2002 f320975
A B
B
08/27/2002 f320974
Replacement
4 7
1. Park the vehicle. Shut down the engine, and 5 6
apply the parking brakes.
2. Chock the tires. Raise the vehicle. Support the
frame rails with jack stands.
3
3. Remove the fasteners holding the control rod to
the frame rail bracket. Remove the shims, and 2
set the shims aside. 1
4. Remove the control rod.
5. Position the new control rod so that the end with
the fasteners angled up at 35 degrees is insta- 11/14/95 f320451
lled in the axle housing bracket. See Fig. 1. 1. Axle Housing 5. Control Rod
2. Control Rod Axle 6. Control Rod Frame
Bracket Bracket
3. Bolt 7. Right Frame Rail
8 4. Left Frame Rail
A 4 5 6 7
4 Fig. 2, Control Rod Installation on 23,000- and 46,000-
pound AirLiner Suspensions
3
2
NOTE: Control rods on suspensions manufactu-
red to a 23,000-pound (10 433 kg) or 46,000-
1 pound (20 865 kg) weight rating are larger and
are attached to the axle bracket with a single
bolt. Tighten the fasteners attaching the control
rod frame bracket to the frame rail 160 to 170
09/14/95 f320431 lbf·ft (217 to 230 N·m), and the bolt connecting
A. Angle: 35 degrees the control rod to the axle housing 175 to 225
1. Axle Housing 5. Control Rod lbf·ft (237 to 305 N·m). See Fig. 2.
2. Control Rod Axle 6. Control Rod Frame
Bracket Bracket
3. Left Frame Rail 7. Shim
4. Bolt 8. Right Frame Rail
WARNING
Do not use a cutting torch to remove the outer
metal of the bushing from the spring eye. Wel-
ding, torching, or cutting the leaf spring assem-
bly can damage the leaf spring material, which
may result in the failure of the components and
cause serious personal injury, death, or property
damage.
5.1 Using a shop press with a capacity of at
least 10 tons (9 072 kg), place the spring
assembly in the shop press with the
spring assembly squarely supported on
the press bed for safety and to avoid ben-
ding the spring assembly.
Torque Specifications
For fastener torque values, see Table 1.
IMPORTANT: To prevent voiding the warranty (500 N·cm). Any damage to the valve hou-
on Barksdale height-control valves, note the fo- sing will void the warranty.
llowing: • Do not attempt to disassemble the Barks-
• Do not overtighten the bolts in the Barks- dale valve body or the control lever. There
dale height-control valve housing. The are no serviceable parts in the valve, and
bolts should not be loose, and should not any disassembly will void the warranty.
require tightening. Only if necessary,
tighten the valve housing bolts 45 lbf·in
CAUTION
When removing or loosening a Barksdale height-
control valve from a mounting bracket, always
hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the
nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
the mounting studs are threaded into the valve
body, loosening the nuts without holding the
studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the
valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
back the studs out, causing a separation of the
two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
4 1
03/10/2011
2 3
f320783
Special Tools
Use the kit shown in Fig. 2 to test a Barksdale
height-control valve. Test kit BKS KD2264 is availa-
ble via the Direct Ship program in paragon.
1 2 3
5
4
06/05/2000 f320852
NOTE: Parts for cab suspension valve testing included.
1. Test Gauge Assembly with Reset Button
2. Exhaust Port Test Connector for Cab Suspension Valve (used for cab suspension valve testing)
3. Parker Plugs
4. Exhaust Port Test Connector for Chassis Suspension Valve
5. Test Plugs for Cab Suspension Valve (used for cab suspension valve testing)
6. Special Tool for Disconnecting Air Line
7. Air Line
General Information
The AirLiner Plus suspension is used on vehicles
with pusher or tag axles to improve traction perfor-
mance. The system maintains an accurate leveling of
frame height through the use of the Meritor WABCO
ECAS (Electronically Controlled Air Suspension) sys-
tem with sensors and an electronic control unit. A
height sensor mounted between the frame and the
drive axle housing provides the ECAS control unit
with frame height information. Other sensors provide
additional information, which the control unit uses to
quickly lower or raise the frame height as necessary.
The operation occurs while the vehicle is in motion or
while parked.
The vehicle must be equipped with a rear axle air
suspension, and requires ABS with Automatic Trac-
tion Control to trigger the optional load transfer func-
tion automatically.
AirLiner Plus components include:
• A cab-mounted electronic control unit that uses
information about the vehicle’s rear frame
height to adjust the air pressure of the air
spring bags;
• A frame rail-mounted solenoid valve that ad-
justs the air pressure;
• An axle- and frame-mounted height sensor
that provides the control unit with frame-height
information;
• A brake light switch that informs the control
unit when the brakes are applied;
• A dash-mounted warning light that indicates a
system fault;
• A load transfer light that displays automatic
load transfer status;
• A three-position dash switch that allows auto-
matic load transfer, driver-activated load trans-
fer, or no load transfer;
• An optional hand-held remote control unit that
is used to alter the chassis height for loading
and unloading.
Removal
1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake.
2. Chock the front tires.
3. Remove the lower cover at the base of the left
B-pillar.
4. Disconnect the electrical connections at the base
of the B-pillar.
5. Remove the grab handle.
6. Remove the shoulder harness adjustable D-loop
mechanism mounted to the B-pillar.
7. Detach the plastic channel that attaches the up-
holstery to the door frame. This will provide slack
in the upholstery to allow access to the ECU
mounted inside the B-pillar.
8. Remove the fasteners that attach the B-pillar up-
holstery to the cab wall.
9. Reach inside the B-pillar and remove the fasten-
ers that attach the ECU.
10. Disconnect the electrical connections on the unit,
and remove the ECU from the B-pillar.
Installation
1. Install the ECU inside the B-pillar. Connect the
electrical connections.
2. Install the B-pillar upholstery.
3. Attach the plastic channel around the door frame
and upholstery.
4. Install the shoulder harness adjustable D-loop
mechanism.
5. Install the grab handle.
6. Connect the electrical connections at the base of
the B-pillar.
7. Install the lower panel at the base of the B-pillar.
8. Remove the chocks from the tires.
3 2
3
2
03/06/96 f320520
1. Solenoid Valve
2. Bracket
3. Wire
5
4
3
02/28/96 f320517
1. Axle 3. Overtravel Lever 5. Bracket
2. Linkage Rod 4. Sensor 6. Frame Rail
26
21
3
22
02/29/96 f320509
1. Right Rear Air Bag 3. Solenoid Valve 5. Left Forward Air Bag
2. Left Rear Air Bag 4. Secondary Air Reservoir 6. Right Forward Air Bag
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 4
Fig. 3
04/01/96
Reference Diagram: D06−21820 f541257
General Description
The TufTrac Suspension is heavy-duty "six rod"
tandem-axle suspension option for trucks built for
severe on/off highway work. See Fig. 1. The TufTrac
design allows a truck to maneuver over bumps,
ridges and washboard roads that typically generate
high rates of axle articulation, without bottoming out
the suspension or losing traction.
The TufTrac suspension is available in three weight
ratings – 40,000-, 46,000- and 52,000-pound (18
144-, 20 865-, 23 586-kilogram) capacities. The
40,000-pound (18 144-kilogram) capacity suspension
uses two taper leaf springs and has an axle spacing
of 54 inches. The 46,000-pound (20 865-kilogram)
capacity suspension has three leaf springs (shown in
this section), while the 52,000-pound (23 586-
kilogram) suspension features four leaf springs. Both
the 46,000-pound (20 865-kilogram) and the 52,000-
pound (23 586-kilogram) suspensions have a stan-
dard axle spacing of 56 inches.
Principles of Operation
Six functional links in the TufTrac suspension main-
tain the positions of the axles. Side-to-side axle
movement is controlled by two v-rods from the frame
to the axles at the top of the differentials. Four con-
trol rods from the frame to the axles at the bottom
control the forces of driving and braking as well as
fore-and-aft road shocks. Vertical loads are carried
by the rubber-isolated parabolic taper leaf spring
packs.
1 1
4 4
07/01/99 f310804
1. Axle Clamps 4. Lower Control Rods
2. Leaf Springs 5. Rebound Stop
3. Center Bearing
1
1
2 2
3
3
4
4
05/07/99 f320797
1. Mounting Bolt 3. Shock Absorber
2. Upper Mounting Bracket 4. Lower Mounting Bracket
1 1
4 4
07/01/99 f310804
1. Axle Clamps 4. Lower Control Rods
2. Leaf Springs 5. Rebound Stop
3. Center Bearing
3
3
1
05/06/99 2 f310807
1. Jack 3. Frame Rail
2. Jack Stand 4. Rear Axle
04/16/99 f310805
05/17/99 f350388
1. Springs
2. Lift (hoist)
3. Frame Rail
Installation 3. Install the tip pad and bolts on each axle clamp.
Tighten the bolts 37 lbf·ft (50 N·m). See Fig. 1.
2
A
1
1
A 2
A 3 A
3
04/15/99 f310803
A. Label
1. V-Rod 2. Spacer 3. Lower Control Rod
1 1
3
3
3 3
1 1 2
2
4
2 04/15/99 f310802
1. Mounting Bolt 3. Spacer
2. V-Rod
1 2 3 1
06/10/99 f320800
1. Lower Control Rod 3. Mounting Nut
2. Mounting Bolt
2 1 2
3
1
3 5
4 4
4 4
7 6
6 7
12/19/2008 f310812
13. Install the lower spring-tip pads into the front and IMPORTANT: Install two new washers for
rear axle clamps. each U-bolt nut.
14. Jack up the left-side suspension spring, remove 17.1 Install each U-bolt over the U-bolt saddle
the jack stands, and lower the spring. While the in the upper axle clamp and through the
spring is being lowered, ensure that it is seated holes in the lower axle retainer.
correctly onto the lower spring-tip pads.
17.2 Install the washers and finger-tighten the
15. Install new lower axle retainers onto both rear nuts in the order shown in Fig. 4.
axles.
Make sure all brackets are snug against
16. Install the brake cam tube-support bracket onto
the axle housing before proceeding.
the rear axle.
IMPORTANT: U-bolt nuts must be tightened
in the order shown in Fig. 4.
17.3 Tighten the nuts 60 lbf·ft (81 N·m), then
200 lbf·ft (271 N·m), in two separate rota-
tions, following the order shown in Fig. 4.
18. Attach the lower torque-control rods to the lower
axle retainers, then tighten 136 lbf·ft (184 N·m).
19. Install the shock absorbers as follows.
19.1 Install the lower shock mounting bolts.
19.2 Install the lower shock absorber mounting
washers and nuts, then hand-tighten the
07/02/99 f320810 nuts.
Fig. 2, Vehicle Jacking Point 19.3 Tighten the nuts to 241 lbf·ft (327 N·m).
A B
12/19/2008 f350391
A. Original Axle Clamp B. New Axle Clamp
1. Step in U-Bolt Saddle
4 1
2 3
07/07/99 f350392
A. Centerline of Spring
1. Tighten First 3. Tighten Third
2. Tighten Second 4. Tighten Fourth
Torque Specifications
Torque Value
Description
lbf·ft (N·m)
Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt 241 (327)
Center Bearing Upper Mounting Bolts 68 (92)
Center Bearing Lower Mounting Bolts 155 (210)
Tip Pad Bolts 37 (50)
Rebound Stop Mounting Bolt 68 (92)
Lower Control Rod Mounting Bolts 136 (184)
V-Rod Frame Bracket Mounting Bolts 136 (184)
V-Rod Axle Bracket Mounting Bolts 427 (579)
Stage 1: Hand-Tighten
5/8–18 Axle Clamp U-Bolt Nuts (Tighten
Stage 2: 60 (81)
as shown in Fig. 1.)
Stage 3: 200 (271)
Stage 1: 60 (81)
3/4-Inch Spring Pack U-Bolt Nuts Stage 2: 200 (271)
Stage 3: 300 (407)
Table 1, Torque Specifications
4 1
2 3
07/07/99 f350392
A. Centerline of Spring
1. Tighten First 3. Tighten Third
2. Tighten Second 4. Tighten Fourth
General Description there are no lubrication fittings since grease and oil
are never needed.
The Chalmers 854 Rear Suspension ( Fig. 1 and The 854 Rear Suspension is available in three differ-
Fig. 2) is a walking beam-type tandem axle suspen- ent maximum load capacities: 40,000 lb. (18 000 kg),
sion that uses hollow rubber springs instead of leaf 46,000 lb. (21 000 kg), and 52,000 lb. (23 600 kg).
springs or air bags. Each hollow rubber spring is The 40,000 lb. (18 000 kg) version is easily distin-
mounted between a frame-rail plate and the center guished from the other two versions since the upper
(front-to-rear) of the steel walking beam. A sawhorse torque rods do not cross over one another on the
bracket assembly is attached to the frame and pro- 40,000 lb. (18 000 kg) version.
vides mounting points for the lower torque rods that
tie the axles to the frame. The upper torque rods are The 854 suspension is available in a 54-inch axle
fastened to brackets that bolt to the frame side rails spacing. The axle-to-axle spacing dimension is often
included as part of the suspension name, such as
and to tower assemblies that are welded to the top of
the differential housings. "Chalmers 852 Rear Suspension" or "Chalmers 854
1 1
3 3
06/16/99 f320805
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
13
01/11/96 f320444
1. Restrictor Can 11. Lower Torque Rod (adjustable)
2. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH forward) 12. Torque Rod Bushing (lower)
3. Spigot Cap (upper) 13. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH rear)
4. Upper Torque Rod 14. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH forward)
5. Torque Rod Bushing (upper) 15. Beam
6. Forward Rear Axle Tower 16. Axle Housing Beam Saddle Bracket
7. Rear Axle Tower Plug 17. Beam Spring Plate
8. Rearmost Rear Axle Tower 18. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH rear) 19. Sawhorse Bracket Assembly
10. Spigot Cap (lower) 20. Beam Stop
Fig. 2, Chalmers 854 Tandem Axle Suspension (40,000-pound capacity without shock absorbers shown)
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
13
01/11/96 f320444
1. Restrictor Can 11. Lower Torque Rod (adjustable)
2. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH forward) 12. Torque Rod Bushing (lower)
3. Spigot Cap (upper) 13. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH rear)
4. Upper Torque Rod 14. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH forward)
5. Torque Rod Bushing (upper) 15. Beam
6. Forward Rear Axle Tower 16. Axle Housing Beam Saddle Bracket
7. Rear Axle Tower Plug 17. Beam Spring Plate
8. Rearmost Rear Axle Tower 18. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH rear) 19. Sawhorse Bracket Assembly
10. Spigot Cap (lower) 20. Beam Stop
Fig. 1, Chalmers 854 Tandem Axle Suspension (40,000-pound capacity without shock absorbers shown)
2
1
5
4
10/13/95 f320438
1. Shock Absorber 3. Walking Beam 5. 3/4" Mounting Bolts
2. Frame-Mounted Bracket 4. Beam-Mounted Bracket
4 5 6
3
7
1
3
18 2 5
16
17
19
15
10
20
11 7
12
3
8
14 5 5
10 10 4
10 9
11 3
12
13
01/11/96 f320444
1. Restrictor Can 11. Lower Torque Rod (adjustable)
2. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH forward) 12. Torque Rod Bushing (lower)
3. Spigot Cap (upper) 13. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH rear)
4. Upper Torque Rod 14. Lower Torque Rod Axle Housing Bracket (LH forward)
5. Torque Rod Bushing (upper) 15. Beam
6. Forward Rear Axle Tower 16. Axle Housing Beam Saddle Bracket
7. Rear Axle Tower Plug 17. Beam Spring Plate
8. Rearmost Rear Axle Tower 18. Hollow Rubber Spring
9. Upper Torque Rod Frame Bracket (LH rear) 19. Sawhorse Bracket Assembly
10. Spigot Cap (lower) 20. Beam Stop
Fig. 1, Chalmers 854 Tandem Axle Suspension (40,000-pound capacity without shock absorbers shown)
1 1
B
3
01/11/96 f320442
1. Front Axle Housing, Beam Saddle Bracket
2. Walking Beam
3. Beam Stop
09/27/95 f320432 Fig. 4, Beam/Saddle Bracket Alignment
A. Flange thickness measurement taken at unworn
area for reference. 5. Slide, as one assembly, the spring plate, rubber
B. Flange thickness measurement taken at wear area spring, and restrictor cap, into position on the
to assess beam condition. walking beam.
1. Walking Beam 6. Install and tighten the spring plate fasteners 35
Fig. 3, Beam Wear Measurement lbf·ft (47 N·m).
7. If so equipped, connect the beam-mounted
3. Beams showing excessive wear must be re-
shock absorbers to the beam brackets and
paired or replaced. See Subject 140 for beam
tighten the fasteners 170 lbf·ft (230 N·m).
repair information.
8. Remove the safety stands from under the ve-
Installation hicle, then lower the vehicle.
9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1. Position the new or repaired walking beam over
the rearmost rear axle, with the front end of the
beam tilted downward.
2. Slide the beam forward and downward so the
front end of the beam enters the axle housing
saddle bracket. See Fig. 4. Let the middle of the
beam rest on the sawhorse bracket beam stop.
3. Carefully roll the rearmost rear axle forward,
while lifting the rear end of the walking beam
enough so the beam end enters the axle housing
saddle bracket.
4. Connect the rearmost axle’s upper and lower
torque rods to the axle housing brackets. Install
and tighten the torque rod bushing through-bolts
135 lbf·ft (183 N·m).
Repair
NOTE: This subject addresses only instances 1
where excessive beam flange wear occurs, but
cracks in the web or flange are not present.
Cracked webs and/or flanges require walking
beam replacement.
Walking beams with excessive flange wear,
however, can be repaired by welding a Chalm- A
ers Wear Plate over the worn areas as de-
scribed below.
1. Remove the walking beam assembly. See Sub- B
ject 130 for information.
NOTE: Take flange thickness measurements at
least 1/2 inch (12 mm) from the flange edges.
Measurements taken at the flange edges are
not an accurate indication of beam wear and
may lead to unnecessary beam repair/ 09/27/95 f320432
replacement.
A. Flange thickness measurement taken at unworn
2. Confirm that flange wear is severe enough to area for reference.
warrant repairs. Use a micrometer or vernier cali- B. Flange thickness measurement taken at wear area
pers to take flange thickness measurements at to assess beam condition.
both unworn and worn areas. The maximum al- 1. Walking Beam
lowable difference between unworn and worn
Fig. 1, Beam Wear Measurement
areas is 0.062 inch (1.5 mm). See Fig. 1.
3. If repair is required, clean the worn area of the 6. Remove the clamps and weld the plate to the
beam thoroughly. Make sure that any oil or beam, again, welding on the sides of the plate
grease is removed, as well as rust or road dirt only. See Fig. 2.
accumulation. If necessary, slight grinding of the 7. Prime and paint the repaired area.
beam is allowed to smooth raised areas.
8. Install the repaired walking beam assembly. See
4. Clamp Chalmers Wear Plate #700313 to the bot- Subject 130 for information.
tom flange of the beam. Make sure the plate is
centered and has good surface-to-surface con-
tact with the beam. Slight grinding is allowable to
obtain good plate-to-beam contact.
5. Tack weld the plate to the beam, welding on the
sides of the plate only.
CAUTION
Weld at the sides of the wear plate and beam
only. Never weld at the ends of the wear plate.
Welding the ends of the wear plate does not al-
low the wear plate to properly slightly expand nor
contract, an action which, if the ends are welded,
can cause cracks in the welds.
A
10/19/95 f320443
A. Limit weld to this area only.
1. Walking Beam 2. Wear Plate
The torque rods hold the rear axles in place, main- 1. If necessary, power wash the rear suspension to
taining both axle alignment and pinion nose angle. remove road dirt accumulation.
When servicing the torque rods, it is good practice to
2. Chock the front tires to prevent vehicle move-
remove and install them one at a time to avoid the
possibility of mixing them up and affecting the align- ment.
ment or pinion nose angle. 3. Relieve all drive axle brake or wind-up loads by
placing the transmission in neutral and releasing
Several different styles of torque rods and bushing
the spring or driveline brakes.
spigots exist. On the 40,000-pound version of the
852 suspension, the torque rods have tubular steel 4. Raise the rear of the vehicle to remove all weight
bodies and the upper rods do not cross over one an- from the rear axles, and place safety stands un-
other. On the 46,000- and 52,000-pound versions, der the frame to secure the vehicle in its raised
the lower torque rods have tubular steel bodies, but position.
the upper torque rods are made of "I-beam" shaped
ductile iron. These upper torque rods do cross over 5. Working on one torque rod at a time, remove the
torque rod bolts and spigot caps. Discard th
one another. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
11/07/95 f320445
Removal bolts. Set the spigot caps aside for cleaning and
inspection.
NOTE: Inspect torque rod bushings for free play Remove the torque rods by prying between the
before removing the torque rods. See Sub- torque rod eye and the spigot base or frame
ject 160 for torque rod bushing inspection infor- bracket.
mation. NOTE: At the axle housing towers, pry off the
tower cap to access the torque rod fasteners.
01/11/96 f320447
Installation
1. Check the torque rod bushings to make sure
they are properly installed. They must be cen-
tered within the torque rod eye. See Fig. 4.
IMPORTANT: Never use any mineral-based oils,
greases, jellies, or solvent soaps to aid in the
assembly of rubber suspension parts. Use only 10/24/95 f320446
lubricants specifically designed for use with rub-
A. Measure outside diameter at two locations, 90
ber compounds. degrees apart.
2. Lubricate the outside of the spigots and the in- Fig. 3, Spigot Measurement Points
side of the rubber bushings with a generous
A
A
2
10/26/95 f320449
A. The amount of rubber protruding from each side of
the torque rod eye must be equal .
1. Torque Rod Bushing 2. Torque Rod Eye
A
1
1 2 3
C B
2
12/08/94 f320005a
lengthen the torque rod. Continue to rotate the 11.2 Tighten 5/8-inch UNC bolts on #2 joints
tube until the forward-rear axle is square to the 135 lbf·ft (183 N·m).
frame.
12. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle.
NOTE: If the torque rod tube is difficult to rotate, Remove the chocks from the front tires.
apply penetrating oil to the tube threads. If this 13. Using the center-point bar, check the rearmost
does not help, remove the pinch bolts and drive axle alignment. If alignment is not within specifi-
wedges between the eye lugs to relieve the cations, repeat the applicable steps above.
clamping effect.
7. When the forward-rear axle is square with the CAUTION
frame, tighten the pinch bolts.
Failure to periodically torque the suspension fas-
7.1 Tighten 1/2-inch UNC bolts on #1 joints teners can result in abnormal tire wear, and dam-
65 lbf·ft (88 N·m). age to the suspension.
7.2 Tighten 5/8-inch UNC bolts on #2 joints IMPORTANT: All suspension fasteners require
135 lbf·ft (183 N·m). periodic torquing. For suspension component
8. Using a center-point bar, determine the differ- inspecting and fastener torque checking inter-
ence between the forward-rear and the rearmost vals and instructions, see Group 32 in the Co-
axles’ center-to-center measurements on each lumbia Maintenance Manual.
side of the vehicle. For instructions, see
Group 35 in this manual. This difference is the
approximate distance that the leading end of the
rearmost axle will have to be adjusted rearward,
or that the trailing end will have to be adjusted
forward, to align it at a right angle to the frame,
and to align it parallel to the forward-rear axle.
See Fig. 2.
9. On the side of the vehicle that is to be adjusted
forward or rearward, loosen the torque rod end
pinch bolts at both ends of the torque rod.
NOTE: If the pinch bolts are badly corroded or
otherwise damaged, remove and discard them.
Install new Chalmers fasteners.
10. Attach a pipe wrench to the tube body (chain
type preferred) and rotate the tube to shorten or
lengthen the torque rod. Continue to rotate the
tube until the rearmost axle is square to the
frame.
NOTE: If the torque rod tube is difficult to rotate,
apply penetrating oil to the tube threads. If this
does not help, remove the pinch bolts and drive
wedges between the eye lugs to relieve the
clamping effect.
11. When the rearmost axle is square with the
frame, tighten the pinch bolts.
11.1 Tighten 1/2-inch UNC bolts on #1 joints
65 lbf·ft (88 N·m).
Torque
Description Bolt Size IFI Grade
lbf·ft (N·m)
Beam Spring Plate Bolt 3/8 UNC 8 35 (47)
Torque Rod End Through Bolts 5/8 UNC 8 135 (183)
Shock Absorber Bolt 3/4 8 170 (230)
#1 Torque Rod End Pinch Bolts 1/2 UNC 8 65 (88)
#2 Torque Rod End Pinch Bolts 5/8 UNC 8 135 (183)
Table 1, Fastener Torques, 854 Suspension
11/22/2005 f321048
6. Measure the suspension ride height of the front If a gauge is not available, measure the vertical
axle. If equipped with dual height-control valves, distance from the bottom of the upper air-spring
measure the ride height on both sides of the ve- bracket to the bottom of the air-spring piston
hicle. flange. This distance should be between 7-3/4
and 8 inches (197 and 203 mm).
Using a Hendrickson AIRTEK height gauge, lit-
erature no. 45745-159, hold the gauge vertically 7. If the suspension ride height is not within specifi-
and place it so the upper notch feature is be- cation, disconnect the vertical linkage from the
tween the height-control-valve mounting bolts, horizontal control lever, fill and exhaust the sus-
and sits flush against the bottom of the air-spring pension system, then fill the system until the sus-
bracket; see Fig. 2. The piston-flange edge pension is at the proper ride height.
should contact the lower region marked "AC- 8. Move the control lever to the neutral position,
CEPTABLE." then hold it in position by inserting a 5/32-inch
CAUTION
When loosening a Barksdale height-control valve
from a mounting bracket, always hold the valve-
side mounting studs in place with an Allen
wrench while loosening or tightening the nuts
that attach the valve to the bracket. Because the
mounting studs are threaded into the valve body,
loosening the nuts without holding the studs can
tighten the studs, which can crush the valve
body and damage the valve. Conversely, tighten-
ing the nuts without holding the studs can back
the studs out, causing a separation of the two
halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
9. While holding the height-control valve mounting
studs in place with an Allen wrench, loosen the
valve mounting just enough to allow movement
of the height-control valve.
Height-Control Valve Test tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
back the studs out, causing a separation of the
two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
It is normal to hear air escaping from the height-
control valve for as much as 10 minutes after getting
out of the vehicle when it is in an unladen condition. Checking the Height-Control
This air "leaking" is just the height-control valve ex-
hausting air from the suspension air springs in order
Valve Without Using a Test Kit
to return to the neutral mode. 1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
The height-control valves used on the Columbia are 2. Run the engine to build vehicle air pressure to at
Barksdale valves. Two methods are available to least 100 psi (690 kPa).
check the operation of the Barksdale height-control 3. Shut off the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes for
valves. A leak in the valve may be discovered without the air suspension system to equalize.
using a test kit, but a test kit is necessary to deter-
mine if the valve has an unacceptable rate of leak- NOTE: Normal operation of the height-control
age. valve requires a maximum of 10 minutes to
Some Barksdale height-control valves have been re- settle. Any air leakage during this time is consid-
turned for warranty because the four bolts in the ered normal, and does not indicate a defective
valve housing were overtightened, often, enough to valve.
crack the valve housing. These bolts should not be 4. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the control
loose, and should not normally require tightening, as lever; see Fig. 1.
there are no serviceable parts in the valve.
5. Pull the control lever up about 45 degrees for 6
IMPORTANT: To prevent voiding the warranty to 8 seconds. If air passes through the valve,
on Barksdale height-control valves, note the fol- that section of the valve is working.
lowing: 6. Return the control lever to the neutral position.
• Do not overtighten the bolts in the Barks- Air should stop flowing. If so, that section of the
dale height-control valve housing if you valve is working.
detect leaks in the housing. The bolts 7. Push the control lever down about 45 degrees
should not be loose, and should not re- for 6 to 8 seconds. If air exhausts from the valve,
quire tightening. Only if necessary, tighten that section of the valve is working.
the valve housing bolts 45 lbf·in (500 8. Return the control lever to the neutral position. If
N·cm). Any damage to the valve housing the air stops again in the neutral position, the
will void the warranty. valve is working correctly.
• Do not attempt to disassemble the Barks- 9. If the valve works as stated in all of the above
dale valve body or the control lever. There steps, then no further checking is necessary.
are no serviceable parts in the valve, and Connect the vertical linkage to the control lever,
any disassembly will void the warranty. then tighten the linkage nut.
If needed, adjust the ride height or replace the
CAUTION height-control valve. For adjustment of the ride
height, see Subject 100. For replacement of the
When removing or loosening a Barksdale height- height-control valve, see "Height-Control Valve
control valve from a mounting bracket, always Replacement" below.
hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the NOTE: If a leak is detected on a Barksdale
nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because height-control valve, go to "Checking a Barks-
the mounting studs are threaded into the valve dale Height-Control Valve Using a Test Kit".
body, loosening the nuts without holding the Barksdale valves have an acceptable leak rate
studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the of 3 cubic inches (50 cc) per minute. You can
valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
01/26/2005 f321028
Valve Using a Test Kit Fig. 2, Exhaust Flap Location (height-control valve with
integral dump port)
IMPORTANT: The procedure described below is
for use on Barksdale height-control valves only. 5. Disconnect the vertical linkage from the horizon-
tal control lever.
NOTE: The Barksdale field test kit is designed
to be used with the height-control valve installed 6. Rotate and hold the horizontal control lever down
on the vehicle. Refer to Specifications 400 for at about 45 degrees to exhaust air from the air
information on ordering the Barksdale height- springs.
control valve test kit KD2264. 7. If equipped with an integral dump port, turn on
the quick dump switch on the dash. Leave the
1. If not already done, park the vehicle on a level
switch on until testing is complete.
surface, apply the parking brakes, and chock the
tires.
If not equipped with an integral dump port, dis- 11.1 Rotate the valve control lever up 45 de-
connect the air lines from the air spring ports on grees from the horizontal to the fill posi-
the height-control valve. Leave the elbow fittings tion.
(if equipped) in place. Install a Parker plug into
11.2 Press the reset button on the test gauge.
each air spring port (or elbow fitting); see Fig. 3.
4 4 6 4 4 6
A 3 3 3 3 A
5 5
7 7
2 2
B B
1 1
10/01/2008 C D f321142
A. Fill C. Left-Hand Valve
B. Exhaust D. Right-Hand Valve
1. Air Line 4. Parker Plug 6. Test Gauge Assembly
2. Exhaust Port Test Fitting 5. Air Intake Port 7. Reset Button
3. Air Spring Port
8. If a flapper is present on the exhaust port of the 11.3 Observe the test gauge for 30 seconds.
height-control valve, remove it using needlenose Refer to Fig. 4 for the maximum allowable
pliers. exhaust pressure change versus inlet
pressure.
9. Clean the surface around the exhaust port, then
install the test fitting into the exhaust port. The The valve is not working correctly if the
centering pin on the fitting must align with the gauge pressure reading exceeds the
slot on the exhaust port. Rotate the test fitting 45 maximum allowable within 30 seconds.
degrees clockwise to lock it in place; see Fig. 3.
If the gauge reads less than the maximum
NOTE: It may be necessary to cut the tie straps allowable pressure change in 30 seconds,
that hold the chassis wiring running below the the valve is okay.
height-control valve, in order to access the ex- NOTE: The test gauge will register the exhaust-
haust port. ing air. This does not indicate a defective valve.
10. Connect one end of the air hose from the kit to 12. Check the height-control valve in the exhaust
the test connector on the exhaust port, and the
mode, as follows.
other end to the test gauge.
12.1 Rotate the valve control lever down 45
11. Check the height-control valve in the fill mode,
degrees from the horizontal to the exhaust
as follows.
position.
25
MAXIMUM ALLOWANCE
Height-Control Valve
20
Replacement
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
15
WARNING
Keep your hands and all objects away from the
90 100 110 120 130 area under and around the slack adjusters and
INLET PRESSURE suspension components when removing the
06/22/2007 f321039a
pressure from the air system. These parts will
move as the air is released and can cause per-
Fig. 4, Inlet Pressure vs. Exhaust Pressure Change in sonal injury or damage to any objects that are
30 Seconds between the moving parts.
12.2 Press the reset button on the test gauge. 2. Drain the air from the secondary air tank.
If the gauge reads less than the maximum 3. Disconnect the vertical linkage, then lower the
allowable pressure change in 30 seconds, control lever to exhaust the air.
the valve is okay. 4. Remove the air lines from the height-control
NOTE: The test gauge will register the exhaust- valve; see Fig. 5. Push in on the air line to re-
lease the tension, then push down on the collar
ing air. This does not indicate a defective valve. and pull out the air line.
13. Disconnect the test gauge and connector from
the valve exhaust port. CAUTION
14. If the height-control valve is defective, replace it;
When removing or loosening a Barksdale height-
see "Height-Control Valve Replacement" below.
control valve from a mounting bracket, always
15. Install the flapper on the exhaust port by press- hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
ing it into place. an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the
16. For height-control valves with an integral dump nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
port, connect the vertical linkage to the height- the mounting studs are threaded into the valve
control valve control lever. Turn off the quick body, loosening the nuts without holding the
dump switch on the dash. The ride height will studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the
automatically return to the correct position. valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
For height-control valves without an integral back the studs out, causing a separation of the
dump port, remove the two Parker plugs from the two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
air spring ports, and connect the air lines to the
air spring ports (or elbow fittings). Connect the
1
5
02/01/2005 f310977
1. 1/4-Inch Locknuts
2. 1/4-Inch Nylon Air Line
3. Quick-Connect Fittings
4. Air-Spring Hanger Bracket
5. Horizontal Control Lever
Removal
CAUTION
Anytime the front axle on an AIRTEK suspension
is suspended, it is mandatory that the shock ab- A
sorbers remain connected. The shock absorbers 7
are the rebound travel stops for the springs. Fail- 6
ure to do so could cause the air springs to ex- 5
ceed their maximum length, causing the air
springs to separate from the piston, or reverse 4 A
arch the steel leaf springs. This could result in 3
premature steel leaf spring failure. 2
1
1. Set the parking brake, and shut down the en-
gine. Chock the tires. 02/10/2006 f330227
A, Apply a thin coating of antisieze compound to the
NOTE: It is not necessary to replace the shock shock absorber lower mounting bolt shank, the
absorbers in pairs if only one shock absorber mating face of the axle wrap, the spacer, and to
requires replacement. the inside bore of the aluminum top axle wrap.
1. 3/4-Inch Locknut 5. Top Axle Wrap
2. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt, 2. 3/4-Inch Washer 6. 3/4-Inch Washer
spacer, washers, and locknut. 3. Shock Absorber 7. 3/4–10 Bolt
3. Remove the shock absorber upper mounting 4. Spacer
bolt, washers, and locknut, then remove the Fig. 1, Shock Absorber Installation
shock absorber.
4. Inspect the shock absorber mounting brackets
and hardware for damage or wear. Replace as
necessary.
Installation
1. Place the shock absorber into the upper mount-
ing bracket.
2. Install the shock absorber upper mounting bolt,
washers, and locknut.
3. Apply a thin coating of antiseize compound to
the shank of the shock absorber lower mounting
bolt, the mating surfaces of the axle wrap and
spacer, and the inside bore of the aluminum axle
wrap. This is necessary to help prevent the bolt
from seizing to the aluminum axle wrap. See
Fig. 1.
4. Install the lower bolt from the inboard side of the
axle wrap to the outboard side, then install the
spacer, washers, and locknut.
5. Tighten both of the shock absorber mounting
locknuts 225 to 255 lbf·ft (305 to 345 N·m).
Removal 3 2
4
1. Set the parking brake, and shut down the en-
gine. Chock the tires.
2. Deflate the air springs by disconnecting the
2
height-control-valve linkage and lowering the 2
control arm to exhaust the air pressure. Discon- 2
nect the air lines at the air springs.
WARNING
Failure to deflate and disconnect the air system 1
02/09/2005 f321031
prior to raising the front of the vehicle may result
in sudden failure of the air spring, resulting in 1. Locating Nodule 4. Top of Air-Spring
2. Four Lock Tabs Bracket
personal injury or property damage. 3. Top of Air Spring
3. Raise the vehicle and support the frame with
stands. Fig. 2, Air Spring Mounting
02/09/2005 f321029
Installation
CAUTION
02/09/2005 f321030
If the air spring will be re-installed, inspect the
Fig. 1, Upper Air Spring Bracket lock tabs for damage or cracks prior to installa-
tion. Damaged lock tabs may allow the air spring
5. Apply upward pressure between the base of the to become dislodged during operation, resulting
air spring and the top-pad casting. This will dis- in loss of vehicle control.
lodge the air spring from the top-pad casting.
See Fig. 3.
WARNING
Before charging the suspension system with air,
make certain the air-spring locator is indexed
into the upper air-spring bracket, the lock tabs
are snapped into place, and that the air spring is
fully seated. Failure to follow these instructions
could result in premature air-spring failure, which
could result in personal injury or property dam-
age.
8. Check the ride height and adjust it if necessary.
See Subject 100 for instructions.
9. Remove the chocks.
Spring-Eye Bushing
Replacement
Remove the front spring, following the procedure in 2
Subject 150. Once the leaf spring is removed from
the chassis, it will be necessary to use:
• A hydraulic press with an operating capacity of
a minimum of 10,000 lb (4500 kg).
• A receiving tool. 1
Do not use heat or a cutting torch to remove the Fig. 1, Removing the Spring-Eye Bushing
bushing from the steel spring. The use of heat 7. Cut a strip of 3M Scotch® 890T black-fiber tape
can adversely affect the strength of the spring. A (duct tape or equivalent) 1-inch (25-mm) wide by
component damaged in this manner can result in 6-inches (150-mm) long.
a loss of vehicle control, and possible personal
injury or property damage. 8. Feed the tape into the spring eye, with the adhe-
sive side facing the gap in the eye, to cover the
1. Support the spring, and center the spring-end sharp edge. Center the tape equally around each
hub on the receiving tool. The leaf spring must end.
be level to distribute the vertical-pushing load
equally on the bushing. 9. Support the spring, and center it on the receiving
tool.
2. Place the center of the bushing driver on the
spring-eye bushing. See Fig. 1. 10. Center the new bushing on the spring-eye bore,
and line up the hydraulic press.
3. Pushing directly on the driver, press out the
spring-eye bushing until it clears the spring-eye 11. Press the bushing into the spring-eye bore, over-
bore. shooting the desired final position by approxi-
mately 3/16 inch (5 mm). Press the bushing
4. Inspect the spring eye for any cracks or burrs. If again from the opposite side, to center it in the
cracks are present, install a new leaf spring. spring-eye bore.
5. Remove any nicks or burrs with an emery cloth 12. Once the bushing is installed, follow the instruc-
or a rotary sander. tions for the front leaf-spring installation in Sub-
6. Lubricate the inner diameter of the spring bore, ject 150.
and the new rubber bushing, with a vegetable-
based oil (cooking oil). Do not use petroleum- or
soap-based lubricant. They can cause an ad-
verse reaction with the spring-eye material.
Spring-Eye Retorque 6. Loosen all four front and rear spring-eye bolts.
See Fig. 2. The suspension may drop down
slightly.
NOTE: This procedure is also necessary when
replacing the front or rear hanger brackets, or IMPORTANT: DO NOT remove the spring-eye
the steel leaf spring. bolts. The tires must not contact the ground.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- 7. Allow the suspension to settle.
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
tires. 8. Tighten the 3/4-inch locknuts on the front and
rear spring-eye bolts 285 to 305 lbf·ft (385 to 415
2. Deflate the air springs by disconnecting the N·m).
height-control-valve linkage and lowering the
control arm to exhaust the air pressure. 9. Raise the front axle and remove the frame
stands.
WARNING 10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Check the air springs to verify that they are
Failure to deflate and disconnect the air system seated properly, and install the air lines into the
prior to raising the front of the vehicle may result air springs.
in sudden failure of the air spring, resulting in
personal injury or property damage. 12. Connect the height-control valve and charge the
air system.
IMPORTANT: Push-to-connect fittings are not
13. Affix a long straightedge to the bottom of the
serviceable. Clean dirt and debris away from the frame rails, in front of the air springs.
fittings to prevent foreign materials from entering
the air system, or damaging the fittings. Clean 14. With the vehicle on a level surface, measure the
the push-to-connect fittings using soapy water distance from the top of the straightedge to the
and a soft-bristled brush, then dry with com- ground on both sides of the vehicle. Record the
pressed air. measurements.
15. Determine the difference from one side to the
3. Disconnect the air lines at the air springs.
other. Remove the straightedge.
4. Raise the vehicle and support the frame with
16. Perform a road test and repeat the previous
stands.
three steps.
2
1
1
1
06/28/2001 f320901
1. Bolt 2. Front Leaf-Spring Hanger
Fig. 2, Front Spring Mounting
9. Remove both lower shock absorber mounting 3. Install the 5 1/2-inch long front spring-eye bolt,
bolts. washers, and nut, but do not tighten.
NOTE: To ease removal of the spring-eye bolts 4. Using the dowel pin located on the top axle
wrap, engage the spring to the axle. It may be
it may be necessary to raise or lower the axle.
necessary to loosen the other clamp group to
10. Disconnect both air springs from the top pads of allow the axle to pivot when installing the spring
the clamp groups. on the dowel pin.
11. On the spring that is not being replaced, loosen 5. Install the top pad on top of the spring.
the clamp group nylon locknuts.
6. Install a new bottom axle wrap liner in the bottom
axle wrap.
WARNING 7. Install the bottom axle wrap.
Do not use a cutting torch to remove clamp 8. Install new clamp group bolts, washers, and new
group bolts or attaching fasteners. The use of nylon locknuts.
heat on suspension components can decrease
the strength of these parts. A component dam- 9. Snug the clamp group, but DO NOT torque at
aged in this manner can result in a loss of ve- this time.
hicle control and possible personal injury or 10. Raise the axle and the rear spring assemblies
property damage. into the rear spring hangers.
12. Remove the 3/4-inch clamp group bolts, nuts, 11. Install the 5-inch long centerbolts in the rear
washers, top pad, galvanized liner, and the bot- hangers. The bolt must be installed from the in-
10
11
9
9
8
12
14
13 17
15 18
19
7 16
21
20
6
23 22
5
24
25
26
4
3
2
1
02/21/2006 f321057
1. 3/4–10 Nylon Locknut 10. Front Hanger 19. 3/4–10 Locknut
2. 3/4-Inch Flatwasher 11. 3/4–10 Locknut 20. 3/4-Inch Wide Washer
3. Bottom Axle Wrap 12. Air Spring 21. 3/4–10 x 5 Hexbolt
4. Bottom Axle Wrap Liner 13. 3/4–10 Hexbolt 22. Thrustwasher
5. Shock Spacer 14. Shock Absorber 23. Rear Spring Mount
6. Dowel Pin 15. 3/4–10 Locknut 24. 3/4–10 x 7 Lower Shock Bolt
7. Leaf Spring 16. 3/4-Inch Hardened Washer 25. 3/4-Inch Hardened Washer
8. 3/4–10 x 5-1/2 Hexbolt 17. Rear Hanger 26. Top Axle Wrap
9. 3/4-Inch Flatwasher 18. 3/4-Inch Flatwasher
Fig. 1, Front AirLiner Spring Assembly
15. Install the air springs into the top pads. Make
sure the piston is correctly seated in the top pad.
1
16. Remove the frame supports and load the front
axle with the vehicle weight.
17. Ensure that the clamp group is properly aligned,
and the bottom axle wrap is centered on the top
axle wrap. See Fig. 2. Ensure that the hexbolts
are seated in the top-pad casting. See Fig. 3.
02/21/2006 f321056
1. Top Pad 2. 3/4-Inch Bolts
Fig. 3, Top Pad Installation
A
1 3
4 2
02/21/2006 f321055
02/16/2005 f310979
A Ensure the axle clamp group is properly aligned as
shown.
Fig. 4, Clamp Group Locknut Tightening Sequence
Fig. 2, Axle Clamp Group
18.2 Tighten the second diagonal to 100 lbf·ft
18. Tighten the clamp-group locknuts in sequence. (135 N·m).
See Fig. 4.
18.3 Tighten the first diagonal to 270 to 330
18.1 Tighten the first diagonal to 100 lbf·ft (135 lbf·ft (365 to 445 N·m).
N·m).
18.4 Tighten the second diagonal to 270 to 330
lbf·ft (365 to 445 N·m).
WARNING
Before charging the suspension system with air,
make certain the air-spring locator is indexed
into the upper air-spring bracket, the lock tabs
are snapped into place, and that the air spring is
fully seated. Failure to follow these instructions
could result in premature air-spring failure, which
could result in personal injury or property dam-
age.
22. Remove the chocks from the tires.
10. Inspect the rear spring mount, rear hanger NOTE: A bottle jack may be required to raise
clamp, and both thrustwashers for excessive the axle slightly to facilitate installation of the
wear or damage. Replace if necessary. rear hanger centerbolt.
11. Install the thrustwashers on the rear spring 16. Install the washer and locknut. Tighten the lock-
mount. nut to 285 to 305 lbf·ft (385 to 415 N·m). See
Fig. 3.
12. Slide the rear hanger clamp over the rear spring
mount. 17. Raise the vehicle and remove the jack stands or
frame support.
13. Using new fasteners, install the rear spring
hanger on the frame. 18. Lower the vehicle.
2
3
A
1
02/16/2005 f310982
A. Verify that the rear spring mount is centered on the
leaf spring taper.
1. 3/4-Inch Locknut 3. Rear Spring Mount
2. Leaf Spring Taper
WARNING
Before charging the suspension system with air,
make certain the air-spring locator is indexed
into the upper air-spring bracket, the lock tabs
are snapped into place, and that the air spring is
fully seated. Failure to follow these instructions
could result in premature air-spring failure, which
could result in personal injury or property dam-
age.
20. Remove the chocks.
Removal 7
1. Set the parking brake, and shut down the en- 8
gine. Chock the tires.
IMPORTANT: Push-to-connect fittings are not 9
serviceable. Clean dirt and debris away from the 6 10
fittings to prevent foreign materials from entering 5
the air system, or damaging the fittings. Clean
the push-to-connect fittings using soapy water
11 12
and a soft-bristled brush, then dry with com-
pressed air.
13 14
4
2. Deflate the air springs by disconnecting the 3
height-control-valve linkage and lowering the
control arm to exhaust the air pressure. Discon-
nect the air lines at the air springs. 2 15
02/16/2005 1 f310978
WARNING 1. Rear Spring Hanger 10. Thrustwasher
2. 3/4-Inch Locknut 11. 1/4-Inch Washer
Failure to deflate and disconnect the air system 3. 1/4-Inch Locknut 12. 1/4-Inch Bolt
prior to raising the front of the vehicle may result 4. 1/2-Inch Locknut 13. 2-Inch o.d. Washer
in sudden failure of the air spring, resulting in 5. Thrustwasher 14. 3/4-Inch Hexbolt
personal injury or property damage. 6. Rear Spring Mount (Centerbolt installed
7. 1/2-Inch Hexbolt from inboard side)
3. Raise the vehicle and support the frame with 8. Spring-End Plate 15. Rear-Hanger Clamp
stands. 9. Leaf-Spring Taper
4. Suspend the front axle, ensuring there is enough Fig. 1, Rear Spring Mount Assembly
clearance to allow the rear spring mount to clear
the bottom of the spring hanger. Installation
5. Loosen, but do not remove the front spring-eye
bolt. 1. Install the two 1/4 x 1 bolts, washers, and nuts,
through the rear hanger, and rear hanger clamp
6. Support the axle with a floor jack. assembly. Tighten the 1/4-inch locknuts84 to 120
lbf·in (950 to1350 N·cm).
7. Remove the rear hanger centerbolt.
2. Install two new thrustwashers onto the rear
8. Remove the lower shock bolt.
spring mount.
9. Lower the jack until the rear spring mount is be-
3. Raise the axle to install the rear spring mounts
low the spring hanger.
into the rear hanger clamps.
10. Remove the 1/4 x 1-1/4 rear hanger clamp bolt,
4. Install the 3/4 x 5 rear centerbolt, from the in-
and remove the rear hanger clamp.
board side towards the outboard side. Place the
11. Remove the two thrustwashers from the rear 2-inch o.d. washer against the inboard side of
spring mount. See Fig. 1. the rear-hanger clamp.
12. Inspect the spring mount for torn rubber, a worn 5. Apply a thin coat of antiseize to the lower shock
metal sleeve, or a cracked housing. If any of bolt.
these conditions exist, replace the spring mount.
6. Install the lower shock bolt, from the inboard side
towards the outboard side. Tighten the shock bolt
225 to 255 lbf·ft (305 to 345 N·m).
WARNING
Before charging the suspension system with air,
make certain the air-spring locator is indexed
into the upper air-spring bracket, the lock tabs
are snapped into place, and that the air spring is
fully seated. Failure to follow these instructions
could result in premature air-spring failure, which
could result in personal injury or property dam-
age.
12. Remove the chocks from the tires.
10
11
9
9
8
12
14
13 17
15 18
19
7 16
21
20
6
23 22
5
24
25
26
4
3
2
1
02/21/2006 f321057
1. 3/4–10 Nylon Locknut 10. Front Hanger 19. 3/4–10 Locknut
2. 3/4-Inch Flatwasher 11. 3/4–10 Locknut 20. 3/4-Inch Wide Washer
3. Bottom Axle Wrap 12. Air Spring 21. 3/4–10 x 5 Hexbolt
4. Bottom Axle Wrap Liner 13. 3/4–10 Hexbolt 22. Thrustwasher
5. Shock Spacer 14. Shock Absorber 23. Rear Spring Mount
6. Dowel Pin 15. 3/4–10 Locknut 24. 3/4–10 x 7 Lower Shock Bolt
7. Leaf Spring 16. 3/4-Inch Hardened Washer 25. 3/4-Inch Hardened Washer
8. 3/4–10 x 5-1/2 Hexbolt 17. Rear Hanger 26. Top Axle Wrap
9. 3/4-Inch Flatwasher 18. 3/4-Inch Flatwasher
Fig. 1, Front AirLiner Spring Assembly
1 3
A
4 2
A
02/21/2006 f321056
1. Top Pad 2. 3/4-Inch Bolts
A Fig. 6, Top Pad Installation
Torque Specifications
For fastener torque values, see Table 1.
Torque
Fastener Application
lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·in (N·cm)
Front Frame Hanger to Frame 160–180 (215–245) —
Front Spring Eye 285–305 (385–415) —
Rear Hanger to Rear Hanger Clamp — 84–120 (950–1350)
Rear Spring Hanger to Rear Spring Mount 285–305 (385–415) —
Rear Spring Mount to Leaf Spring 80–110 (110–150) —
Upper Air-Spring Bracket 160–180 (215–245) —
Height-Control Valve to Air-Spring Bracket Locknuts* — 95 (1100)
Barksdale Height-Control Valve Housing Capscrews* — 45 (500)
Clamp-Group Hardware 285–305 (385–415) —
Shock-Absorber Eye Bolt 225–255 (305–345) —
Shock Bracket to Frame 160–180 (215–245) —
* See the cautionary statements below.
IMPORTANT: To prevent voiding the warranty valve body and damage the valve. Conversely,
on Barksdale height-control valves, note the fol- tightening the nuts without holding the studs can
lowing: back the studs out, causing a separation of the
two halves of the valve body, and possibly a leak.
• Do not overtighten the bolts in the Barks-
dale height-control valve housing. The
bolts should not be loose, and should not Special Tools
require tightening. Only if necessary,
Use the kit shown in Fig. 1 to test a Barksdale
tighten the valve housing bolts 45 lbf·in height-control valve. Test kit BKS KD2264 is avail-
(500 N·cm). Any damage to the valve able via the Direct Ship program in paragon.
housing will void the warranty.
• Do not attempt to disassemble the Barks-
dale valve body or the control lever. There
are no serviceable parts in the valve, and
any disassembly will void the warranty.
CAUTION
When removing or loosening a Barksdale height-
control valve from a mounting bracket, always
hold the valve-side mounting studs in place with
an Allen wrench while loosening or tightening the
nuts that attach the valve to the bracket. Because
the mounting studs are threaded into the valve
body, loosening the nuts without holding the
studs can tighten the studs, which can crush the
1 2 3
5
4
06/05/2000 f320852
NOTE: Parts for cab suspension valve testing included.
1. Test Gauge Assembly with Reset Button
2. Exhaust Port Test Connector for Cab Suspension Valve (used for cab suspension valve testing)
3. Parker Plugs
4. Exhaust Port Test Connector for Chassis Suspension Valve
5. Test Plugs for Cab Suspension Valve (used for cab suspension valve testing)
6. Special Tool for Disconnecting Air Line
7. Air Line
General Description A
1 A
A
B B
08/29/94 f330082a
NOTE: B minus A equals toe-in.
Fig. 4, Wheel Toe-In (overhead view)
08/29/94 f400094a
A. Feathered Edges
12/20/94 f400096a
1. Knuckle Pin (King Pin)
A. Positive Caster
B. Zero Caster
C. Negative Caster
A B
12/14/94 f330081a
A. Underinflation Wear B. Overinflation Wear
Fig. 1, Tire Damage Due to Underinflated or
Overinflated Tires
02/10/93 f400098
Before checking or correcting wheel alignment, make Fig. 1, Steering Wheel Position
sure the vehicle is at curb weight. Curb weight is the
weight of the unloaded vehicle complete with acces-
sories and full fuel tanks.
If a road test is necessary, the route should be one
that allows full left and right turns and full stops. It
should also include a length of straight, level road to
check the steering wheel position during straight-
ahead driving.
During the road test, note any steering effort and
possible roughness. Check for looseness, too much
wheel play, any tendency for the vehicle to lead in
one direction, and for pull during stopping.
Note the position of the steering wheel while driving
on a straight, level road. When the steering gear is
centered, the steering wheel spokes should be at the
4 and 8 o’clock positions, or within 10 degrees of
that position. See Fig. 1.
If there are any problems, refer to Section 33.01.
Checking (See Fig. 1) the step above and the angles in the table are
caused by damaged (bent) axle components.
A Incorrect camber angles could be caused by
damage in one or more of the following front axle
components: the knuckle pin, the knuckle pin
bushings, the axle spindle, or the axle beam. Re-
place twisted or otherwise damaged compo-
nents. Don’t try to straighten twisted or bent
components; replace them with new compo-
nents. If a bent or twisted front axle knuckle pin,
08/29/94 f330051a axle spindle, or axle beam has been straight-
A. Camber (Positive) ened, the axle warranty will be voided.
Fig. 1, Camber Angle
WARNING
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu-
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- WARNING: Do not attempt to straighten any
tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must twisted or bent front axle component. This could
crack or weaken the component, possibly result-
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment
ing in a collapsed front axle, loss of a wheel, and
equipment must be calibrated every three serious personal injury.
months by a qualified technician from the equip-
ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must 7. Remove the chocks from the tires.
have proof of this calibration history.
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the rear
tires.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle until the tires clear
the ground. Place safety stands under the axle;
make sure the stands will support the weight of
the cab, frame, and front axle.
3. Before measuring camber, check the front wheel
bearings for wear and incorrect adjustment. Try
moving the wheel on the axle spindle (steering
knuckle) either by grasping the front tire on the
top and bottom, or by using a bar for leverage. If
movement between the brake drum and the
backing plate or other axle-mounted reference
point is 0.05 inch (1 mm) or more, the bearings
may be worn or incorrectly adjusted. Inspect the
wheel bearings for damage using the instructions
in Section 33.01. If needed, replace or adjust
the bearings.
4. Remove the safety stands, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
5. Using the alignment equipment manufacturer’s
instructions, measure the front wheel camber.
6. Compare the camber angles with those shown in
the appropriate table in Specifications, 400. Dif-
ferences between the measurements taken in
2
3
C 5
6
03/03/95 f320083a
CAUTION
Failure to periodically retighten the U-bolt nuts
could result in spring breakage and abnormal tire
wear.
7. Using the steps above, replace the shim on the
other side of the axle.
8. Remove the chocks from the tires. Do a final
caster angle check.
Checking and Adjusting a single straight line is scribed all the way
around each tire.
(See Fig. 1)
5. Place a turn-plate or turntable under each tire.
Remove the safety stands from under the axle,
Using the alignment equipment manufacturer’s oper-
then lower the vehicle. Remove the lockpins from
ating instructions, measure the wheel toe-in. Com-
the gauges; make sure the tires are exactly
pare the measurement with that shown in the appro-
straight ahead.
priate table in Specifications 400. If corrections are
needed, go to the applicable (tie rod adjustment) NOTE: If turn-plates or turntables are not avail-
step below. able, lower the vehicle. Remove the chocks
from the rear tires and release the parking
brakes. Move the vehicle backward and then
A
forward about six feet (2 meters).
6. Place the trammel bar at the rear of the front
tires; locate the trammel pointers at spindle
height, and adjust the pointers to line up with the
scribe lines. Lock in place. Make sure that the
scale is set on zero.
7. Place the trammel bar at the front of the tires as
shown in Fig. 2. Adjust the scale end so that the
pointers line up with the scribe lines. See Fig. 3.
B
08/29/94 f330082a
NOTE: B minus A equals toe-in.
Fig. 1, Wheel Toe-In (Overhead View)
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu-
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc-
tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment
equipment must be calibrated every three 08/30/94 f330014a
months by a qualified technician from the equip-
ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must Fig. 2, Trammel Bar Positioning
have proof of this calibration history.
8. Read the toe-in from the scale. Compare the
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the rear toe-in with the value in the appropriate table in
tires. Specifications 400. If corrections are needed,
go to the next step.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle until the tires clear
the ground. Place safety stands under the axle. 9. Loosen the tie rod (cross tube) clamp nuts, and
Make sure the stands will support the weight of turn the tie rod as needed.
the cab, axle, and frame.
If the vehicle is not on turn-plates or turntables,
3. Using spray paint or a piece of chalk, mark the move the vehicle backward and then forward
entire center rib of each front tire. about six feet (two meters). This is important
when setting the toe-in on vehicles equipped with
4. Place a scribe or pointed instrument against the
radial tires.
marked center rib of each tire, and turn the tires.
The scribes must be held firmly in place so that Do a final wheel toe-in check to make sure that it
is correct.
08/30/94 f400100a
Caster Target and Limits, Bee Line Equipment Camber, Dana/Eaton Axles
(except LC4000) Axle Model Left Camber: Right Camber:
Target: degrees Limits: degrees degrees degrees
+3-1/2 +3 to +6-1/2 All E Series +1/4 ± 7/16 0 ± 7/16
Table 2, Caster Target and Limits, Bee Line Table 7, Camber, Dana/Eaton Axles
Equipment (except LC4000)
Torque Values
Tie Rod Clamp Nut Torque Values
Plain Nut Torque*:
Tie Rod Clamp Nut Locknut Torque*:
Axle Manufacturer Axle Model lbf·ft (N·m)
Size lbf·ft (N·m)
1 2
2
8
3 9
4
3
6 7
4
03/22/94 f350056a
1. Cup 3. Cone
2. Tapered Roller 4. Roller Cage
2
02/22/94 f350055a
1. Serrations 2. Clipped Head
3
WARNING
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non-
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis-
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res-
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes,
6 starting with removal of the wheels and continu-
ing through assembly.
5 4 4. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. See
11/04/96 f330139
Group 40 for instructions.
1. Hub 4. Outer Bearing
2. Inner Bearing 5. Retaining Nut 5. For drum brakes, remove the brake drum. For
3. Bearing Spacer 6. Axle Spindle instructions, see Subject 160.
Fig. 1, ConMet PreSet Hub, Cut-Away View NOTE: Oil will spill as the hub cap and wheel
hub are removed. Place a suitable container
When installing a PreSet hub with the spacer and under the axle spindle to catch any spilled oil,
special PreSet bearings, the correct end play is set and avoid contaminating the brake shoes with
automatically and wheel bearing adjustment is un- oil. Dispose of the oil properly.
necessary.
6. Remove the capscrews, washers, and hub cap.
For vehicles equipped with ConMet PreSet hubs, it is Remove and discard the hub cap gasket.
highly recommended to stay with the PreSet sys-
tem to optimize bearing and seal life. However, if you 7. Remove the wheel bearing locking device:
are replacing the bearings for a PreSet hub, and the • For an Axilok spindle nut, see Sub-
special PreSet bearings are not available, standard ject 190; then go to the next step.
wheel bearings can be used. In this case, the bear-
ing spacer must be removed and the bearings ad- • For a Pro-Torq spindle nut, see Sub-
justed manually. See the installation instructions for ject 150; then go to the next step.
more information. • If the axle is equipped with a four-piece
NOTE: On some axles, the hub, wheel bear- bearing-lock system, see Subject 130;
then go to the next step.
ings, studs, and oil seal are installed as a unit-
ized wheel-end assembly. These wheel ends
must be replaced as a unit. For Meritor unitized
8 9 10
3 4 5 6 7 11 12 13 14
1 2 15
16
09/22/2009 f330255
NOTE: On some axles, the hub, wheel bearings, studs, and oil seal are installed as a unitized wheel-end assembly.
These wheel ends must be replaced as a unit.
1. Hub Cap Capscrew 7. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup 12. Inner Wheel Bearing
2. Washer 8. Wheel Nut 13. Oil Seal
3. Hub Cap 9. Hub 14. Axle Spindle
4. Gasket 10. Wheel Stud 15. Bearing Spacer
5. Axilok Nut 11. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 16. Brake Drum
6. Outer Wheel Bearing
Fig. 2, Typical Wheel End Assembly, Front Axle with Drum Brakes
NOTICE NOTICE
Be careful not to let the outer wheel bearing drop Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
from the axle spindle. Dropping the bearing can grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
warp the cage or damage the rollers, ruining the rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearing. On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS, bearings as carefully as new ones.
use care when working with the hubs. To prevent 9. Remove the hub from the axle spindle. Be care-
damage to the tone wheel, do not drop the hub, ful not to damage the axle spindle threads as the
or lay it down in a way that would damage the assembly is removed.
tone wheel.
10. Remove the inner wheel bearing; handle the
NOTE: If working with Meritor Easy Steer Plus® bearings with clean, dry hands. Wrap the bear-
hubs, remove the wheel end (hub, bearings, ings in clean, oil-proof paper or lint-free rags. If
and oil seal) as a unit. the inner wheel bearing remains in the hub after
8. Move the hub about 1/2 inch (13 mm) to jar the hub is removed, place a protective cushion
loose the outer wheel bearing (allow the hub-only where it will catch the bearings, and use a hard-
assembly to rest on the axle spindle; be careful wood drift and a light hammer to gently tap the
not to damage the axle spindle threads). Then, bearing (and seal, if necessary) out of the cup.
carefully remove the outer wheel bearing; handle 11. Remove the oil seal from the axle spindle, if not
the bearings with clean, dry hands. Wrap the already removed. See Section 33.02 for addi-
bearings in either clean oil-proof paper or lint- tional information.
free rags.
Installation
For a typical wheel and axle assembly, see Fig. 2.
Make sure that both bearing assemblies are 7. Mount the hub assembly on the axle spindle.
coated with fresh oil. Use only fresh oil on the 8. Remove the friction tape, then adjust (if needed)
bearing assemblies; old oil could be contami- and secure the bearings:
nated with dirt or water (both are corrosives) and
• For an Axilok spindle nut, see Sub-
could cause damage to both wheel bearing as-
ject 190; then go to the next step.
semblies and the wheel hub.
• For a Pro-Torq spindle nut, see Sub-
3. Coat both bearing assemblies with fresh oil. In-
ject 150; then go to the next step.
stall the inner wheel bearings and oil seal.
Handle the bearings with clean, dry hands. See • If the axle is equipped with a four-piece
Section 33.02 for oil seal installation instructions. bearing-lock system, see Subject 130;
then go to the next step.
4. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre-
vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel 9. Place the hub cap and a new gasket in position,
bearing. then install the washers and capscrews. In a star
pattern, tighten the capscrews 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
5. If present, remove the temporary plastic bearing
cover from the front of the hub. 10. If applicable, add fresh oil to the wheel hub to
the level indicated on the hub cap. For recom-
mended axle lubricants, see Specifica-
NOTICE tions, 400.
Do not use the bearing spacer with standard
wheel bearings. To do so may result in too much WARNING
bearing end-play, which could damage the wheel
bearings, oil seals, the axle spindle, and the hub. Failure to add oil to the wheel hub after the hub
has been serviced will cause the wheel bearings
6. If using PreSet bearings, ensure the tubular to overheat and seize during vehicle operation.
spacer is in the PreSet hub. Seized bearing rollers can cause sudden damage
If replacing PreSet bearings with non-PreSet to the tire or axle, possibly resulting in personal
bearings, remove the tubular spacer from inside injury and property damage.
the hub. Save it for future use to convert the hub 11. Rotate the hub to distribute the oil, then check
back to the PreSet system. the level at the hub cap. Add lubricant as
NOTE: For Meritor unitized wheel end installa- needed.
tion and adjustment procedures, see Sub- 12. For drum brakes, install the brake drum on the
ject 140. wheel hub. For instructions, see Subject 160.
WARNING
If the wheel nuts cannot be tightened to minimum
torque values, the wheel studs have lost their
locking action, and the wheel hub flange is prob-
ably damaged. In this case, replace it with a new
wheel hub assembly. Failure to replace the wheel
hub assembly when the conditions described
above exist could result in the loss of a wheel or
loss of vehicle control, and possible personal in-
jury.
13. Install the wheel and tire assembly. See
Group 40 for instructions.
14. Adjust the front axle brakes. For instructions, see
Group 42.
15. Remove the safety stands from under the axle
and lower the vehicle.
04/14/94 1 f330020a
1. Cracked Stud Grooves
1 1
2
04/14/94 1 f330019a
1. Wear Spots
04/14/94 f230017a
CAUTION
Do not spin the bearing rollers at any time. Dirt
or grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
premature wear of the bearing assembly. Treat a 04/14/94 f330087a
used bearing as carefully as a new one.
Fig. 6, Indentations, Cracks, or Breaks in Bearing
4. After the bearings are cleaned, inspect the as- Surfaces
semblies, which include the rollers, cones, cups,
and cages. If any of the following conditions ex- 4.3 Bright rubbing marks on the dark phos-
ist, replace the bearing assemblies: phate surfaces of the bearing cage. See
Fig. 7.
4.1 Large ends of rollers worn flush to the
recess, or radii at the large ends of the 4.4 Water etch on any bearing surface. Water
etch appears as gray or black stains on
1
12/07/94 f330013a
1. Maximum Diameter Stamp
1. Inspect the inner friction surface. If a veneered to unacceptable limits. Remachine or replace the
(highly glossed) or glazed surface exists, renew same-axle drums.
the drum by using 80–grit emery cloth or by turn-
6. Inspect the outside surface of the drum. Remove
ing the drums.
any accumulation of mud, dirt, or rust; foreign
2. Inspect for heat checking, which is a form of matter acts as an insulator, trapping heat within
buckling (cracking) resulting from a temperature the drum.
differential in the drum wall between a relatively
7. Check for hard, slightly raised dark-colored spots
cool exterior and a hot friction surface. Heat
on the inner friction surface or for a bluish cast
checking is normal on all drums and may not
on the brake parts, both of which are caused by
impair performance and lining life if the network
high temperatures. If the drums’ maximum allow-
of fine hairline cracks remains small. Examine
able diameters have not been exceeded, rema-
heat checks of drums frequently to be certain the
chine both same-axle drums. If the spots or dis-
checks have not widened into drum weakening
coloration cannot be removed, or if remachining
cracks (substantial cracks extending to the open
is not possible, replace the drums. Also replace
edge of the drum). Replace the same-axle drums
the brake shoe return springs.
if substantial cracks are present, or if widening of
the fine hairline cracks occurs.
NOTE: If normal heat checking as described
above is present, inspect the drums at least ev-
ery 12,000 miles (19 300 km) thereafter. Inspect
the drums (using a flashlight from the inboard
side of the wheels) every 6000 miles (9700 km).
Inspect more often under adverse operating
conditions.
3. Check for a contaminated inner friction surface. If
fluids are present, such as oil or grease, remove
the contaminants. Locate and correct the source
of the contamination. If the brake drums are con-
taminated with fluids, the brake linings will also
be affected. Since oil or grease saturated linings
cannot be salvaged, they must be replaced. For
brake lining replacement procedures, see
Group 42 in this manual.
WARNING
If the brake drums are contaminated with fluids,
replace the brake linings. Failure to replace fluid
contaminated brake linings could result in a par-
tial loss of braking capacity, which could lead to
personal injury or property damage.
4. Measure the inside diameter of the drum. If the
measured diameter is greater than the maximum
allowable diameter, replace the same-axle drums
and linings.
5. Check for a variation in gauge readings at differ-
ent points on the radius of the drum’s working
surface. If the variation is more than 0.010 inch
(0.25 mm) at any point, the drum is out-of-round
Removal
Wheel bearing cups on ferrous hubs are removed
and installed by driving them out and pressing them
in without heating the hub.
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly.
2. Using a mild-steel rod through the opposite end
of the hub, drive against the inner edge of the
bearing cup. Alternately drive on opposite sides
of the cup to avoid cocking the cup and damag-
ing the inside of the hub.
Installation
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including
the bearing cup bores.
2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
bly.
3. Coat the replacement bearing cup hub contact
surface with a film of grease.
4. Position the cup in the hub and press it into
place, using a suitable driving tool. Cups must
seat against the shoulder in the hub.
5. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the
bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
General Information justing nut into one of the holes with minimal
turning of the adjusting nut, gauge the distance
ConMet PreSet hubs may use a four-piece wheel on one side of the lockring, then the other, and
bearing lock system. See Fig. 1. choose the side that requires the adjusting nut
to be advanced the least. Do not back off the
nut.
2. Install the lockring (as described in the note
above) and bend-type locking washer.
3. Install the jam nut, and tighten it 200 lbf·ft (271
N·m).
4
04/04/2008
5 f330174b
1. Axle Spindle 4. Bend-Type Locking
2. Adjusting Nut Washer
3. Lockring 5. Jam Nut
IMPORTANT: Do not measure the wheel Fig. 3, Dial Indicator Setup, Aluminum Hub with Iron
bearing end play with the wheel mounted on Brake Drum
the hub; you cannot accurately measure or
adjust bearing end play with the wheel Fig. 4. The indicator should be square
mounted on the hub. Also, ensure that the with the end of the spindle.
brakes are not applied so that that drum and IMPORTANT: Maintain continual pressure on
hub can move freely. the hub until you have taken both the in-
4.1 On vehicles equipped with aluminum board and outboard measurements. If you
hubs, install an iron brake drum onto the release the hub, an accurate measurement
hub to provide a ferrous surface for the is not possible.
magnetic base of the dial indicator. With 4.5 To seat the bearings, grip the hub at the
flange nuts, secure the drum to the hub three o’clock and nine o’clock positions,
using the stud at the 12 o’clock position, and push inward while oscillating it ap-
followed by the studs at about the 4 proximately 45 degrees. Maintain pressure
o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. Ensure the on the hub and note the measurement.
nuts hold the drum securely; use washers
if needed. NOTE: The end play measurements must be
taken at the same point to prevent an un-
4.2 Clean the spindle end; ensure it is free of
debris and provides the smooth surface even spindle end from skewing the results.
needed for the dial indicator to take an As needed, mark the spot on the spindle
accurate measurement. where the inboard measurement was taken.
4.3 Attach the magnetic base of a dial indica- 4.6 Pull the hub and drum outward while oscil-
tor to the drum (or, on vehicles equipped lating it as before. Maintain pressure on
with iron hubs, the hub). See Fig. 3. the hub, and note the outboard extent of
the end play. See Fig. 5.
4.4 Set the measuring end of the indicator
against the spindle end as shown in
WARNING
The wheel-bearing end play must be between
0.001 and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). Correct
2 end play is crucial: if the wheel-bearing end play
is not correct, the wheel bearings could fail. This
1 could cause the loss of the wheel and hub as-
sembly, resulting in an accident causing serious
injury or property damage. Use a dial indicator to
measure the end play.
5. The end play must be between 0.001 and
0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If the end play
is not within this range, adjust the end play as
follows.
5.1 Remove the jam nut and locking device,
and back off or tighten the inner adjusting
nut.
07/10/2009 f350502
5.2 Install the locking device and jam nut as
The indicator should be square with the end of the described earlier, and measure the end
spindle. play. If the end play is not between 0.001
NOTE: Assembly for rear axle shown. and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm), turn
1. Dial Indicator 2. Spindle End the adjusting nut again.
Fig. 4, Indicator Square with the Spindle 5.3 Measure the end play.
If the end play is not between 0.001 and
0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm), repeat the
adjustment procedure until the correct end
play is achieved.
IMPORTANT: The correct end play must be
achieved before completing the hub assem-
bly installation procedure.
6. Once the end play is between 0.001 and 0.005
inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm), bend two tabs on the
locking washer at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock to
lock the jam nut in place. See Fig. 2.
7. Rotate the hub in both directions. It should turn
freely with no dragging or binding.
07/14/2009 f350500
NOTE: Assembly for rear axle shown.
Fig. 5, Pulling the Hub Outward to Measure End Play
IMPORTANT: The following information is based • The bearing face is clean, with no seal
on a Meritor technical bulletin for unitized wheel coating, dirt, or rust
ends, and has been formatted for this Freight- • The inboard or outboard seals are undam-
liner workshop manual. Contact Meritor if you aged and the bearings are seated cor-
wish to refer to the original technical bulletin. rectly. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
• The tone wheel teeth are all present and
Installation undamaged. See Fig. 3.
WARNING
Do not service the bearings on Meritor unitized
wheel ends. Disassembling the wheel end (hub)
and bearings could contaminate the bearing lu-
bricant, possibly damaging the bearings. This
could result in the eventual loss of the wheel end 1
(hub), which could cause an accident resulting in
serious personal injury and property damage.
C
1
2 B 2
12/04/2002 f330210
3 1. Inner Oil Seal 2. Tone Ring
12/04/2002 f330208 Fig. 3, Inboard Side of Wheel End (hub)
A. This gap must be equal to the "B" gap.
B. This gap must be equal to the "A" gap.
C. This gap must not exceed 1/4-inch (6 mm).
WARNING
1. Inner Bearing 3. Outer Bearing Do not apply anti-seize compound to the axle
2. Clip Ring
spindle threads. This could result in the axle nuts
Fig. 1, Checking the Inner Clip Ring losing their clamping ability, which could cause
the loss of the hub and wheel assembly, which
• The gaps between the inner and outer could cause an accident resulting in serious per-
bearings and the clip ring are equal. See sonal injury and property damage.
Fig. 1. If necessary, adjust by hand.
3. Apply anti-seize compound to the new O-ring, 15.2 Apply a continuous 1/8-inch (3 mm) bead
spindle, and inner surfaces of the wheel bear- of RTV silicone sealant to the outside first
ings. thread of the hub cap. Apply the sealant
around the entire circumference.
Use Meritor compound part number 2297-C-8297
or Dow Corning Molykote® D. IMPORTANT: Use only the following RTV
If any of the compound gets on the axle spindle sealants on the hub cap:
threads, wipe it off. • Meritor part number 2297-Z-7098
4. Install the O-ring onto the axle spindle. • Three Bond®
5. Install the wheel end (hub) straight onto the axle • Loctite® Ultra Grey Adhesive Sealant 18581
spindle, being careful not to damage the spindle
15.3 Install the hub cap by hand until it is
threads.
seated.
6. With the wheel end (hub) mounted on the axle
IMPORTANT: Disregard the torque value
spindle, install the inner D-ring, then the inner
locknut. Tighten 600 lbf·ft (813 N·m) while rotat- embossed on the hub cap.
ing the wheel end (hub) at least five times. 15.4 Using a torque wrench, tighten the hub
NOTE: The inner and outer locknuts are identi- cap 75 lbf·ft (102 N·m).
cal, but their torque values are different. If you cannot tighten the hub cap to the
correct torque value, or if it makes a pop-
7. Install the tabbed washer.
ping sound while being tightened, replace
8. Bend one of the tabs over the flat of the inner it with a new one.
locknut.
16. If installing a metal hub cap, do the following:
9. Install the outer locknut and tighten it 250 lbf·ft
16.1 Using a wire brush, clean the inner
(339 N·m).
threads of the hub and the hub cap
10. Bend an opposing tab of the tabbed washer over threads. Wipe the inner threads of the
a flat of the outer locknut. hub with a clean shop cloth.
11. Install the brake drum. If necessary, adjust the 16.2 Apply Loctite® 17430 (Meritor part num-
slack adjuster. For instructions, see Group 42 of ber 2297-D-7076) gasket sealant to the
this workshop manual. hub cap threads.
12. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Hand tighten 16.3 Install the hub cap by hand until it is
the wheel nuts. seated.
13. Raise the vehicle, remove the jackstands, then 16.4 Using a torque wrench, tighten the hub
lower the vehicle. cap 350 lbf·ft (475 N·m).
14. Tighten the wheel nuts 500 lbf·ft (678 N·m). IMPORTANT: If you cannot tighten the hub
cap to the correct torque value, or if it
NOTE: Plastic and metal hub caps are inter-
makes a popping sound while being tight-
changeable; however, the installation procedure
ened, replace it with a new one.
is different for each type.
17. Remove the chocks from the tires.
15. If installing a metal hub cap, go to the next step.
If installing a plastic hub cap, do the following:
15.1 Using a wire brush, remove any grease
or mud from the inner threads of the hub.
Wipe the threads with a clean shop cloth.
General Information
Pro-Torq® spindle nuts may be used on ConMet Pre-
Set hubs. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
2 3
6
1
5 4
2
3
11/25/2009 f330257
1. Axle Spindle
2. Pro-Torq Nut 11/17/2009 f350510
3. Keeper Arm
4. Mating Teeth, Keeper 1. Lip 3. Mating Teeth
5. Keeper Tab 2. Undercut Groove
6. Mating Teeth, Nut
Fig. 2, Pro-Torq Spindle Nut, Cross Section
Fig. 1, Pro-Torq Spindle Nut and Keeper
Removal
WARNING
Do not place the nut on the spindle or tighten or
loosen the nut on the spindle while the keeper is
locked inside the nut. Doing so may damage the
spindle threads and deform the keeper, and allow
the nut to unthread during operation. Failure to
follow this instruction could cause the hub to
separate from the axle, resulting in severe per- 09/23/2009 f330258
sonal injury or death.
Fig. 3, Removing the Keeper
1. Insert the blade of a flathead screwdriver (or
similar tool) in the slot of one of the keeper arms; 2. Repeat at the other arm, and remove the keeper
see Fig. 3. Ensuring that the tool contacts the from the nut.
keeper and not the teeth of the nut, turn the tool 3. Remove the Pro-Torq nut.
slightly and carefully pry the arm from the under-
cut groove of the nut.
Installation B
WARNING
Failure to secure the keeper and lock the Pro-
Torq nut could cause the wheel assembly to
4
come off the vehicle, resulting in severe personal 07/14/2009 5 f350501
injury or death. NOTE: Assembly for rear axle shown.
6. Inspect the installation; ensure the keeper is 1. Flange Nut 4. Magnetic Base
locked in the undercut groove of the nut. 2. Aluminum Hub 5. Iron Brake Drum
3. Dial Indicator
7. Using a dial indicator, measure the end play as
follows. Fig. 5, Dial Indicator Setup, Aluminum Hub with Iron
Brake Drum
IMPORTANT: Do not measure the wheel
bearing end play with the wheel mounted on 7.4 Set the measuring end of the indicator
the hub; you cannot accurately measure or against the spindle end as shown in
adjust bearing end play with the wheel Fig. 6. The indicator should be square
mounted on the hub. Also, ensure that the with the end of the spindle.
brakes are not applied so that that drum and IMPORTANT: Maintain continual pressure on
hub can move freely. the hub until you have taken both the in-
7.1 On vehicles equipped with aluminum board and outboard measurements. If you
hubs, install an iron brake drum onto the release the hub, an accurate measurement
hub to provide a ferrous surface for the is not possible.
07/14/2009 f350500
NOTE: Assembly for rear axle shown.
07/10/2009 f350502
The indicator should be square with the end of the Fig. 7, Pulling the Hub Outward to Measure End Play
spindle.
wheel bearings could fail. This could cause the
NOTE: Assembly for rear axle shown. loss of the wheel and hub assembly, resulting in
1. Dial Indicator 2. Spindle End an accident causing serious injury or property
damage. Use a dial indicator to measure the end
Fig. 6, Indicator Square with the Spindle play.
7.5 To seat the bearings, grip the hub at the 8. The end play must be between 0.001 and
three o’clock and nine o’clock positions, 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If it is not within
and push inward while oscillating it ap- this range, remove the Pro-Torq nut, and repeat
proximately 45 degrees. Maintain pressure the tightening sequence as described in previous
on the hub and note the measurement. steps. Once the end play is correct, remove the
iron brake drum if installed, and continue your
NOTE: The end play measurements must be service procedure.
taken at the same point to prevent an un-
even spindle end from skewing the results.
As needed, mark the spot on the spindle
where the inboard measurement was taken.
7.6 Pull the hub and drum outward while oscil-
lating it as before. Maintain pressure on
the hub, and note the outboard extent of
the end play. See Fig. 7.
7.7 Find the end play by noting the difference
between the two readings.
WARNING
The wheel-bearing end play must be between
0.001 and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). Correct
end play is crucial: if the wheel-bearing end play
is not correct, bearing life will diminish and the
1 2 3 4
15 16
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14
17 18
06/30/95 f330127
NOTE: On Meritor FF-981 Easy Steer Plus axles, the hub, wheel bearings, studs, and oil seal are assembled at Meritor
and installed as an assembly.
A. Four-piece bearing system shown, Pro-Torq or Axi-Lok locking nuts could be used.
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Nut-Lock 15. Wheel Nut
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 10. Lockring 16. Wheel Stud
3. Oil Seal 11. Adjusting Nut 17. Brake Drum
4. Axle Spindle 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 18. Hub
5. Hub Cap Capscrew 13. Outer Bearing Cup
6. Hub Cap 14. Bearing Spacer (used only with
7. Gasket Con-Met integral wheel bearing
8. Jam Nut packs)
05/03/94 f350125
Removal (See Fig. 1) the hub which could cause loss of a wheel and
loss of vehicle control, leading to personal injury
or property damage.
To insure a tight fit, wheel bearing cups are pur-
posely larger than the wheel hub bores they occupy. 3. Wearing heavy protective gloves, remove the
To remove the bearing cups, aluminum hub bores hub from the oven. Place the hub on a suitable
must be temporarily expanded by heating the hub in press so that the base is fully supported. Quickly
an oven (the bearing cups will also expand, but to a press out the bearing cups.
considerably lesser extent). If adequate heating facili-
ties are not available, replace the hub, wheel stud,
and bearing cup assembly.
Installation
To install the bearing cups, aluminum hubs must
again be temporarily expanded using oven heating.
When the hub is properly heated, the bearing cup
and hub can be press-fit together, using a suitable
press.
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including
the bearing cup bores.
2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
bly.
3. Oven-heat the hub to a temperature range of
240° to 280°F (116° to 138°C). Make sure the
oven thermostat is accurately set; if unsure, use
an oven thermometer to check the temperature
of the oven before placing the hub inside.
02/01/93 f330089a
CAUTION
A If headed studs with serrations are being in-
stalled, position the teeth of the serrated portion
in the notches carved by the original wheel studs
during factory installation. If additional metal is
scraped from the wheel stud bores, the locking
action provided by the serrations will be greatly
weakened. Loss of locking action will prevent
achieving final torque of the wheel nuts during
wheel installation. If final wheel nut torques dur-
ing wheel installation cannot be achieved, re-
place the wheel hub assembly.
NOTE: If the left side of the vehicle is being ser-
08/26/94 f330010a
viced, the replacement wheel stud must be
A. Replace stamped with an "L" (left-hand threaded), and
Fig. 1, Wheel Stud Replacement the nut’s face must be stamped "Left" If the right
side of the vehicle is being serviced, the re-
1. Remove the wheel hub from the axle. For in- placement stud must be stamped with an "R"
structions, see Subject 100. (right-hand threaded), and the nut’s face must
2. If a bent portion of a wheel stud will have to pass be stamped "Right" ( Fig. 2).
through the wheel stud bore, cut off the bent por-
7. With steady movement, press the new stud all
tion before removing the wheel stud.
the way into the hub.
3. Place the wheel hub on a suitable press; make
8. Make sure the stud is fully seated and that its
sure the hub flange is supported evenly around
head (flange) is not embedded into the hub. If
and next to the stud being removed. With steady
the head of the stud is embedded into the hub,
movement, press the damaged stud out of the
replace the hub.
hub.
CAUTION WARNING
Do not use a drift and hammer or concentrated Don’t embed the wheel stud heads in the wheel
heat for removing and installing the wheel studs. hub. Wheel studs with heads embedded in the
Constant, smooth movement of the wheel stud is wheel hub will weaken the wheel hub flange.
Weakness in the wheel hub can result in the loss
08/26/94 f350053a
A. "Right"
General Information
Axilok® spindle nuts are used on ConMet PreSet
hubs. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. These nuts can be
damaged if they are not removed or installed cor- 3
rectly. Use the following guidelines when removing
and installing Axilok retaining nuts. 1
• Use only the correct size, six-point socket to 2
remove or install Axilok spindle nuts. Do not
use a worn or loose-fitting socket. Do not use
a 12-point socket.
• Do not use hammers, chisels, pliers, wrenches,
1
or power tools to remove or install Axilok nuts.
• Do not use an Axilok nut if the locking clips are
damaged or missing, or if the retainer cage tab
or D-flat is damaged or missing.
• Never try to repair a damaged Axilok nut; al-
ways replace it with a new one.
• Always start an Axilok installation by hand. A
good-fitting six-point socket will completely dis-
engage the nut’s locking clips, allowing it to
spin freely by hand. See Fig. 3. Use an accu-
rately calibrated torque wrench to tighten the A
nut to its final torque value.
Installation
Instructions for installing an Axilok nut for both Pre-
Set and non-PreSet type bearings are provided in
06/20/95 f330126
this subject. See the pertinent instructions for the
type you are installing. A. The flat side of the retainer must engage the flat
side of the axle spindle.
Using PreSet Bearings 1. Locking Clip 3. Retainer Cage
2. Nut
WARNING Fig. 1, Axilok Retaining Nut, Meritor Front Axle
Follow the guidelines at the beginning of this
3. Tighten the retaining nut 250 lbf·ft (339 N·m).
subject when installing an Axilok nut. Axilok re-
The nut should lock in place when you remove
taining nuts secure the hub assemblies on the
the wrench. If it does not, advance the nut until it
axle. If the Axilok nut is not correctly installed,
does. Do not back it off.
the hub could separate from the axle, resulting in
severe personal injury or death. 4. Ensure that both locking clips are present and
engaged in the retainer cage. See Fig. 3. If the
1. Apply a few drops of oil through one of the holes
locking clips are not engaged, the nut is not
in the Axilok retainer cage to reduce friction be-
locked in position and can rotate freely.
tween the retainer cage and nut.
2. By hand, install the Axilok nut onto the axle
spindle. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
3
3
1
1
2 4
B C 6
4
1 1 1
08/27/98
A f330155
A. Cross-Section View
B. The tab is engaged.
C. The tab is disengaged.
1. Retainer Cage 5. Locking Clip
2. Locking Clip Tab (compressed)
A
3. Nut 6. Six-Point Socket
4. Locking Clip
09/09/98 f330156 the hub could separate from the axle, resulting in
severe personal injury or death.
A. This retainer tab must engage the keyway of the
axle spindle. 1. Apply a few drops of oil through one of the holes
1. Locking Clip 3. Retainer Cage in the Axilok retainer cage to reduce friction be-
2. Nut tween the retainer cage and nut. See Fig. 1 and
Fig. 2.
Fig. 2, Axilok Retaining Nut, Eaton Front Axle 2. Install the Axilok nut and adjust the wheel bear-
ings, as follows.
Using Non-PreSet Bearings 2.1 By hand, install the Axilok nut onto the
For ConMet PreSet hubs, when there is no bearing axle spindle and turn it against the bearing
spacer installed and non-PreSet type bearings are while spinning the hub.
being used, proper wheel bearing adjustment is criti-
cal to the performance of the bearings, wheel seals, 2.2 Tighten the nut 90 to 110 lbf·ft (122 to 149
and other related wheel end components. N·m) while spinning the hub in both direc-
tions.
WARNING 2.3 Loosen the nut to zero torque, and spin
the hub a few turns.
Follow the guidelines at the beginning of this
subject when installing an Axilok nut. Axilok re- 2.4 Tighten the nut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) while
taining nuts secure the hub assemblies on the spinning the hub in both directions. Back
axle. If the Axilok nut is not correctly installed, off the nut one-eighth to one-sixth turn.
07/14/2009 f350500
NOTE: Assembly for rear axle shown.
Fig. 6, Pulling the Hub Outward to Measure End Play
WARNING
The wheel-bearing end play must be between
0.001 and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). Correct
end play is crucial: if the wheel-bearing end play
is not correct, the wheel bearings could fail. This
could cause the loss of the wheel and hub as-
sembly, resulting in an accident causing serious
injury or property damage. Use a dial indicator to
measure the end play.
4. The end play must be between 0.001 and
0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If it is not within
this range, remove the Axilok nut, and repeat the
tightening sequence as described earlier in this
procedure. Once the end play is correct, con-
tinue with your service procedure.
End Play Checking Pull the wheel end straight out. Note the reading
on the dial indicator.
IMPORTANT: The following information is based The difference between the two readings is the
on a Meritor technical bulletin for unitized wheel end play.
ends, and has been formatted for this Freight- 11. If the end play is less than 0.003-inch (0.08 mm),
liner workshop manual. Contact Meritor if you go to the step for installing the hub cap.
wish to refer to the original technical bulletin.
If the end play is 0.003-inch (0.08 mm) or
greater, go to the next step.
WARNING
12. Remove the outer locknut and tabbed washer
Do not service the bearings on Meritor unitized from the axle spindle.
wheel ends. Disassembling the wheel end and
13. Loosen, but don’t remove, the inner locknut.
bearings could contaminate the bearing lubricant,
possibly damaging the bearings. This could re- 14. While rotating the wheel end a minimum of five
sult in the eventual loss of the wheel end (hub), rotations, tighten the inner locknut 600 lbf·ft (813
which could cause an accident resulting in seri- N·m).
ous personal injury and property damage.
15. Install the tabbed washer and the outer locknut.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- Tighten 250 lbf·ft (339 N·m).
ing brakes, shut down the engine, and chock the
rear tires. 16. Repeat the procedure for checking the end play.
2. Raise the vehicle until the front tires are clear of 17. If the end play is greater than 0.003-inch (0.08
the ground. Support the vehicle with safety mm) but less than 0.006-inch (0.15 mm), the end
stands. play is correct. Go to the next step.
If the end play is 0.006-inch (0.15 mm) or
WARNING greater, replace the entire wheel end assembly.
For instructions, see Subject 140.
Never work under a vehicle that is supported
18. Check the rotation of the wheel end. If it doesn’t
only by a jack. Jacks can slip, causing the ve-
rotate smoothly and without noise, replace it. For
hicle to fall. This could result in serious injury or
instructions, see Subject 140.
death.
If the wheel end rotates smoothly and without
3. Rotate the tire and wheel assembly. It should
noise, go to the next step.
rotate smoothly and without any noise.
19. Bend an opposing tab of the tabbed washer over
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
a flat of the inner locknut. Do the same for the
5. Remove the brake drum. If needed, back off the outer locknut. Make sure that a tab of the washer
slack adjuster. is bent over a flat of both the inner and outer
locknuts.
6. Remove the hub cap.
20. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Hand tighten
7. Attach the magnetic base of a dial indicator to the wheel nuts.
the end of the axle spindle.
21. Raise the vehicle, remove the jackstands, then
8. Touch the dial indicator stem to the surface of lower the vehicle.
the wheel end (hub), making sure the stem is
perpendicular to the surface of the wheel end. 22. Tighten the wheel nuts 500 lbf·ft (678 N·m).
9. Set the dial indicator to zero. 23. Install the hub cap.
10. Without rotating the wheel end, grasp it at the 3 If installing a metal hub cap, go to the next step.
and 9 o’clock positions, and push it straight in.
If installing a plastic hub cap, do the following:
Note the reading on the dial indicator.
Measurements
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires.
1
WARNING
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non- 2
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis-
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res-
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes,
starting with removal of the wheels and continu-
ing through assembly.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. See
Group 40 for instructions.
3. For drum brakes, remove the brake drum. See
Subject 160 for instructions.
4. Clean the hub surfaces where the measurements
will be taken—see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
5. To measure lateral runout, set up a dial indicator
as shown in Fig. 1, then turn the hub one revolu-
tion and note the highest and lowest measure- 04/01/2014 f330285
ments. 1. Hub
2. Dial Indicator (with roller point)
For ConMet hubs, the acceptable lateral runout
is 0.008 inch (0.2 mm); for other hubs, see the Fig. 1, Setup to Measure Lateral Runout
hub OEM for the acceptable lateral runout speci-
fication.
6. To measure radial runout, set up a dial indicator
as shown in Fig. 2, then turn the hub one revolu-
tion and note the highest and lowest measure-
ments.
For ConMet hubs, the acceptable radial runout is
0.008 inch (0.2 mm); for other hubs, see the hub
OEM for the acceptable radial runout specifica-
tion.
2
1
04/01/2014 f330284
1. Hub
2. Dial Indicator (with roller point)
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Possible Cause
Remedy
Not enough oil was used on the bearings, Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Coat the
or the wrong type of oil was used. bearing assemblies with fresh oil.
Foreign matter or corrosive agents entered Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Also clean the
the bearing assembly. Dirt or metallic wheel hub, the axle spindle, and any other component in contact with the
debris from the bearings was not removed. bearing lubricant.
An incorrect adjustment of the wheel Adjust the wheel bearings following the applicable instructions in this section.
bearings is causing noise and wear.
Flat spots or dents on the roller surface Clean, then inspect the bearing rollers. Replace the bearing if damaged. Coat
were caused by skidding of the roller or the replacement bearings with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, see
improper handling of the wheel bearing Specifications, 400.
during installation.
Problem—Damaged Hub
Problem—Damaged Hub
Possible Cause Remedy
(Cracked hub) Local surface of an Replace the hub assembly. When removing the bearing cup, oven-heat the
aluminum hub was heated higher than hub.
350°F (177°C) during bearing cup
removal.
(Bent flange) Incorrect installation of the Replace the hub assembly. Replace the wheel studs.
wheel studs, such as using a hammer and
drift, or the hub flange was not fully
supported on the press during wheel stud
replacement.
The wrong brake drums were installed. Install new brake drums.
Insufficient tightening of the wheel nuts to Replace the hub assembly and tighten the wheel nuts to the values in the
the wheel hub. torque table in Specifications, 400.
Problem—Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Problem—Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Possible Cause Remedy
Dirt or grease has built up on the brake Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
linings (glazing), or the brake linings have replace the drums.
worn excessively.
The brake drums are worn, heat-checked Install new brake drums.
or cracked.
Problem—Shoes on Each Side of the Axle (Side-to-Side Brakes) Are Wearing Unequally
Problem—Shoes on Each Side of the Axle (Side-to-Side Brakes) Are Wearing Unequally
Possible Cause Remedy
The brake linings are not a matched set. Install a new matched set of brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
Different friction codes or different brands Clean, turn, or replace the drums.
of brake linings are installed.
The inside surface of the brake drum is in Turn or replace the drums.
poor condition.
The wheel bearings are out of adjustment. Adjust the wheel bearings following the applicable instructions in this section.
Problem—Hard Steering
Problem—Hard Steering
Possible Cause Remedy
Tire pressure is low in one or both front Inflate tires to the correct pressure.
tires.
Binding in the steering gear due to a lack Test the steering system for binding with the front tires off the ground. For
of lubrication. instructions, see Group 46 of this manual.
Too much caster angle in the front wheels. Check the caster angle and adjust as needed.
The front suspension is sagging due to a Repair or replace the spring as needed. For instructions, see Group 32 of this
damaged spring. manual.
The axle spindle is bent. Replace the spindle.
The frame is misaligned. Check the frame alignment; correct, as needed.
Problem—Vehicle Wanders
Problem—Vehicle Wanders
Possible Cause Remedy
Tire pressure is low in one or both front Inflate the tires to the correct pressure.
tires.
One or more of the alignment Check all of the alignment measurements; correct as needed.
measurements are incorrect.
The rear axle(s) is out of alignment. Check the rear axle alignment and adjust as needed.
Parts of the steering gear or linkage are Test for play in the steering gear and linkage with the front tires off the
worn. ground. Replace parts as needed.
A knuckle pin is loose due to worn Inspect the knuckle pin and bushings for damage. Replace worn or damaged
bushings. parts.
The axle spindle is bent. Replace the spindle.
Problem—Cupped Tires
Problem—Cupped Tires
Possible Cause Remedy
Tire pressure is too low or too high in one Inflate or deflate the tires to the correct pressure.
or both front tires.
One or more wheels or brake drums are Balance the wheels. Check for eccentric brake drums; correct or replace as
out-of-balance. needed.
The wheel toe-in in not correct. Adjust the wheel toe-in.
The brakes are not adjusted evenly. Adjust the brakes on all axles. Also, check the operation of the slack
adjusters.
The front axle wheel bearings are worn or Check the bearings for wear or other damage; replace them if needed.
were not adjusted correctly.
The camber angle is not within Check the front wheel camber angle. If not correct, find and replace the
specifications. damaged axle component.
General Information
1
Wheel oil seals (also called "oil bath seals" or "hub
seals") work as a dam to keep oil in the hub cavity
so that it constantly "bathes" the wheel bearings. The
seals also protect the wheel bearings by keeping dirt,
dust, and water out of the hub. 2
The oil seal fits between the hub bore and the axle
spindle (see Fig. 1), and the sealing element either
3
turns with the wheel ( hub-mounted seals) and seals 4
against the axle spindle, or the sealing element stays
stationary with the axle spindle ( spindle-mounted
seals) and seals against the turning hub.
03/21/95 f330115
1. Outside Edge 3. Sealing Element
2. Garter Spring 4. Inside Edge
1 2 Fig. 2, Wheel Oil Seal Parts, National Oil Seal,
Advanced Design
• National (5-Star Gold® and Advanced Design®) Although you install the Scotseal into the hub bore,
• Stemco (Guardian® the seal’s element grips the axle spindle tightly
and SS4®)
enough that the sealing element stays stationary with
the spindle and seals against the outer cup which
Chicago Rawhide (See Fig. 3)
1
A 2
3
4
5
8
B
6
05/19/95 f330011a
A. Detail A B. Oil Seal (See detail A)
1. Bore-Tite® Coating 4. Outer Cup 7. Bumper Lip
2 Primary Sealing Lip 5. Inner Cup 8. Hub
3. Dirt Lip 6. Sealing Element (Packing) 9. Hub Bore
1 2
4
3
5
03/21/95 f330116
Fig. 4, Eaton Outrunner Seal Fig. 5, National 5-Star Gold Axle Oil Seal
2
5
3
4
03/27/95 f330114
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Chicago
Rawhide Scotseal®.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 33.01.
2. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the axle. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the hub is removed from the axle. In those
cases, place a protective cushion to catch the 11/30/94 f330021a
bearing assembly. Using a hardwood drift and a
NOTE: Rear hub shown.
light hammer, gently tap the bearing and seal out
of the inner wheel bearing cup. Fig. 1, Clean the Hub
3. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
4. Remove all burrs from the shoulder and the seal
bore with an emery cloth or a file. Clean any
metal filings from the components.
CAUTION
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning the
wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, metal
filings, or other contaminants can scratch the
bearing roller surfaces, and cause premature
wear of the bearing assembly.
5. Inspect the bearings and hub components for 08/08/94 f330096a
wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged
components as necessary. Fig. 2, Clean the Spindle
6. Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil. 8. Seat the small outside edge of the seal in the
recess of the tool adapter. See Fig. 3. The cor-
7. Install the inner wheel bearing cone in the inner rect adapter is identified on the box.
wheel bearing cup.
09/27/2005 f330023a
11/30/94 f330022a
NOTE: Rear hub shown. NOTE: Rear hub shown.
Fig. 3, Place the Seal on the Installation Tool Fig. 4, Insert the Tool in the Hub Bore
9. Insert the centering plug of the tool in the bore of 13. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position.
the inner bearing cone. See Fig. 4. The plug pre- Install the capscrews. Tighten the capscrews 15
vents cocking of the seal in the bore. lbf·in (20 N·m).
10. Hold the tool handle firmly, and strike it until the 14. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
sound of the impact changes as the seal bottoms hubcap. See Fig. 6. Do not overfill.
out. See Fig. 5. Hold the tool firmly to avoid 15. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.
bounce or unseating of the seal from the
adapter. 16. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
instructions, see Group 42.
11. After the seal is bottomed in the bore, check for
freedom of movement by manually moving the
interior rubber part of the seal back and forth. A
slight movement indicates a damage-free instal-
lation.
12. Install the wheel hub on the axle, and adjust the
wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 33.01.
IMPORTANT: When starting the wheel on the
spindle, center the hub carefully to avoid seal
damage from the leading edge of the spindle.
05/11/99 f330160
09/27/2005 f330024a
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Dana
Spicer Outrunner™ seal.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 33.01.
2. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the axle. Handling the bearings with clean dry 03/08/94 f330026a
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel Fig. 1, Removing the Axle Ring
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the hub is removed from the axle. In those
cases, place a protective cushion to catch the
bearing assembly. Using a hardwood drift and a
light hammer, gently tap the bearing and seal out
of the inner wheel bearing cup.
CAUTION
Never use a sharp chisel to cut through an axle
ring (wear sleeve). A sharp chisel could damage
the spindle or shoulder.
3. Remove the steel axle ring (wear sleeve) by
striking the ring surface several times with a ball-
peen hammer. See Fig. 1. Remove the stretched
axle ring from the spindle.
4. Clean and inspect the bearings, the spindle,
spindle threads, seal bore, and the hub cavity.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning
the wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, 11/30/94 f330021a
metal filings, or other contaminants can NOTE: Rear hub shown.
scratch the bearing roller surfaces, and
Fig. 2, Clean and Inspect the Hub Bore
cause premature wear of the bearing as-
sembly. 4.3 After removing the wear sleeve, inspect
the spindle. Remove any sharp edges
4.1 Inspect the inner hub bore. Remove dirt
and burrs from the leading edges and the
and contaminants from all recesses and
shoulder area. Repair deep gouges with
corners. Smooth any sharp edges with
filler and smooth with an emery cloth.
emery cloth, and fill in any grooves with
See Fig. 3.
filler. See Fig. 2.
4.4 Wipe the seal and shoulder area with a
4.2 Wipe the hub area with a clean shop
clean shop cloth.
cloth.
2 3
1
03/27/95 f330118
1. Outrunner Handle
2. Outrunner Adapter Plate
3. Bearing Centering Tool
Do not use any silicone or permatex type bore IMPORTANT: Install the seal in the hub bore
sealant with this seal. The Dana Spicer Corpora- with the hub lying flat. Do not install the seal
tion recommends a light coating of bearing oil on with the hub in the vertical (upright) position.
the outer circumference of the seal.
6.2 With the hub and the wheel assembly
Do not mix lubricants of different grades. Do not lying flat on the floor, place the inner
mix mineral and synthetic lubricants. Do not pack bearing cone in the cup.
the bearings with grease when using an oil bath
03/27/95 f330119
03/30/95 f330124
Fig. 6, Position the Seal
Fig. 7, Install the Seal
6.4 Hit the handle of the installation tool gen-
tly. See Fig. 7. 9. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
hubcap. See Fig. 8. Do not overfill.
Because of the rubber outer circumfer-
ence, the Outrunner seal is easier to in- 10. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.
stall than seals with metal outer circum- 11. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
ferences. When the adapter plate bottoms instructions, see Group 42.
out on the hub surface, the seal is in-
stalled correctly. You will hear a metal-to-
metal sound.
6.5 Check that the seal is not cocked, and
that the unitized seal inner circumference
and inner bearing turn freely.
6.6 Lubricate the inner circumference of the
seal with a light film of clean bearing oil.
7. Install the wheel hub on the axle, and adjust the
wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 33.01.
IMPORTANT: When starting the wheel on the
spindle, center the hub carefully to avoid seal
damage from the leading edge of the spindle.
8. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position.
Install the capscrews. Tighten the capscrews 15
lbf·ft (20 N·m).
05/11/99 f330160
IMPORTANT: Make sure the required tools are 5.2 Fill any deep scratches with a hardening
available before beginning the service proce- compound and smooth it with an emery
dures described here. See the "Bearing Center- cloth. See Fig. 2.
ing Tool Interchange" and "Adapter Plates"
tables in Specifications, 400.
Replacement
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 33.01.
2. Remove the old oil seal from the hub or spindle.
3. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity.
CAUTION
03/08/94 f330093a
Never use a sharp chisel to cut through an axle
ring. A sharp chisel could damage the spindle or Fig. 2, Clean the Axle Spindle
shoulder.
5.3 Use a clean cloth to remove all dirt, grit,
4. Remove the steel axle ring by striking the ring
and metal filings.
surface several times with a ball-peen hammer.
See Fig. 1. Remove the stretched axle ring from 5.4 Check the seal for a correct fit by placing
the spindle. the seal on the axle spindle, up to the
first rubber rib. The correct seal will not
go any farther.
IMPORTANT: Clean the wheel hub cavity
and axle spindle. Dirt, metal filings, or other
contaminants can scratch the bearing roller
surfaces, and cause rapid wear of the bear-
ing assembly.
5.5 Inspect the hub bore, and remove any
burrs from the leading edge with an em-
ery cloth.
6. Select the seal installation tools designed for use
with National oil bath seals. These should in-
clude a universal handle, an adapter plate, and a
bearing pilot. See Fig. 3.
03/08/94 f330026a
7. Install the seal in the hub.
Fig. 1, Remove the Axle Ring
5. Inspect the spindle shoulder and hub bore. CAUTION
5.1 If necessary, use a file to remove burrs Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
from the leading edges and shoulder grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
area. rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
03/28/95 f330120
03/28/95 f330123
03/28/95 f330122
03/09/94 f330098a
Replacement
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 33.01.
2. Remove the old oil seal from the hub or spindle.
3. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity. 03/08/94 f330093a
03/08/94 f330095a
CAUTION
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
8. If burrs were removed from the spindle shoulder,
apply a thin layer of non-hardening sealant to the
spindle shoulder. See Fig. 4.
03/08/94 f330027a
1
Fig. 5, Place the Seal on the Spindle
with the hammer to ensure the seal ring is flush
with the face of the shoulder. Wipe off all excess
sealant.
2
3
03/08/94 f330094a
1. Sealant
2. Spindle
3. Shoulder
03/09/94 f330091a
03/09/94 f330092a
Adapter Plates
Seal Adapter Plate Color
847 847-T
855 855-T
Blue
857 857-T
863 863-T
Table 2, Adapter Plates
General Information
Detroit front axles have a unique steering knuckle
design that reduces vibration and wear. Low-friction,
high-strength needle bearings roll on a large-
diameter kingpin, replacing the conventional bush-
ings.
They are compatible with all standard industry model
brakes, hubs, and wheel bearings.
There are three basic models for the Detroit front
axle: Model 2, Model 3, and Model 5. The basic
model is indicated by the numbers on the axle identi-
fication tag.
The following explains a typical model number.
Typical Model Number: AF-12-3.
• AF = front axle
• 12 = Weight Rating (times 1000 lbs.)
• 3 = Model Number
NOTE: Detroit axles are a proprietary product,
though in some applications they may be re-
ferred to as "Freightliner" or "Axle Alliance"
axles or "MB components."
6. Remove the brake drums and front hubs from 4. Connect the drag link to the steering arm. For
the axle. See Section 33.01, Subject 100 for instructions, see the applicable section in
instructions. Group 46.
7. Remove the brake shoes. For instructions, see 5. Install the brake spiders on the axle flanges. For
the applicable service brake section in instructions, see the applicable service brake
Group 42. section in Group 42.
8. Remove the ABS sensors and wiring from the 6. Install the brake air chambers and slack adjust-
brake spiders (anchor plates) and secure them ers onto the axle. For instructions, see the appli-
and their wiring out of the way. cable sections in Group 42.
9. Remove the brake air chambers and the slack 7. Install the ABS sensors.
adjusters. For instructions, see the applicable 8. Install the brake shoes. For instructions, see the
sections in Group 42. applicable service brake section in Group 42.
10. Remove the brake spiders from the axle flanges. 9. Install the hubs and adjust the wheel bearings.
For instructions, see the applicable service brake For instructions, see Section 33.01, Sub-
section in Group 42. ject 100.
11. Disconnect the drag link from the axle steering 10. Install the brake drums.
arm.
11. Adjust the slack adjusters. For instructions, see
12. If so equipped, disconnect the sway bar from the the applicable section in Group 42.
axle brackets.
12. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
13. Using a suitable jack, support the front axle. tions, see Group 40.
14. Remove the U-bolt nuts or remove the nuts hold- 13. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands, and
ing the axle beam to the leaf springs and the air lower the vehicle.
bag brackets, as applicable.
14. Start the engine and build the air pressure.
15. Remove the U-bolts, if applicable.
16. Remove the axle from the vehicle.
16 17
15
14
13
12 21
18
22
18 19
20
11
10
9
22
3
7
2
24
6
25 23
5
4
26
27
06/08/2011 f330211a
NOTE: The number of upper and lower needle bearing sets may vary, depending on the axle model.
1. Tie-Rod Ball Joint 9. Lower Draw Key Nut 18. Shim
2. Castle Nut 10. Upper Draw Key 19. Upper Draw Key Nut
3. Cotter Pin 11. Grease Seal 20. Lower Draw Key
4. Lower Grease Fitting 12. Steering Knuckle 21. Steering Arm
5. Lower Snap Ring 13. Upper Needle Bearing (may be 22. Steering Arm Capscrew
6. Lower Cover Plate one or two sets) 23. Axle Beam
7. Lower Needle Bearings (may be 14. Upper Cover Plate 24. Tie-Rod Arm Capscrews
one or two sets) 15. Upper Snap Ring 25. Tie-Rod Arm
8. Thrust Friction Bearing (thrust 16. Upper Grease Fitting 26. Tie-Rod Clamp
roller bearing on the passenger 17. Kingpin 27. Tie-Rod Tube
side)
rod stud. Insert the cotter pin and bend the tangs
to secure it.
12. If removed, install the axle.
13. If removed, connect the drag link to the steering
arm.
14. Install the brake spider on the axle flange. For
instructions, see the applicable service brake
section in Group 42.
15. Install the brake air chambers and slack adjust-
ers on the axle. For instructions, see the appli-
cable sections in Group 42.
16. Install the ABS sensor.
17. Install the brake shoes. For instructions, see the
applicable service brake section in Group 42.
18. Install the hub and adjust the wheel bearings.
For instructions, see Section 33.01.
19. Install the brake drum.
20. Install the tire and wheel assembly. For instruc-
tions, see Group 40.
21. If necessary, repeat the entire procedure for the
other side of the vehicle.
22. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
23. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Torque Values
Application Size Class Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Air Bag-to-Leaf Spring Nuts — — 220 (298)
Draw-Key Nuts — — 30–55 (40–75)
Sway Bar Fasteners — — 100 (136)
Table 1, Torque Values
General Information
1
Rear axle alignment should be checked whenever
rear axle or suspension components are replaced. It
should also be checked when there is excessive
front and rear tire wear, or hard or erratic steering.
Manufacturers of axle alignment equipment offer a
variety of systems to precisely measure and correct 1
rear axle alignment. If this type of equipment is not
available, the basic tools needed for checking rear
axle alignment on tandem or single axles are a
straightedge (that is nonflexible and at least as long
as the axle), steel tape rule, and trammel bar or cen-
ter point bar.
The straightedge is used to see if a single axle, or a 07/27/94 f350007a
forward-rear axle of a tandem axle installation, is in
1. Adjustable Pointer
alignment with the frame. The distance from the
straightedge to the center of the wheel hub is mea-
Fig. 1, Center Point Bar
sured on each side of the vehicle; any difference in
the measurements means that the axle is out of
alignment.
A center point bar (Fig. 1) is used to see if the
forward-rear axle and rearmost axle of a tandem in-
stallation are aligned with each other (parallel). It has
adjustable pointers at each end, which are inserted
into the axle cap holes of each axle. By comparing
the distance between the two axles on one side to
the distance on the other side, it can be determined
if the axles are parallel.
Instructions and a list of materials for making a cen-
ter point bar are in Subject 130.
The following preliminary checks should be com- manufacturer’s service literature. Sagging, fa-
pleted before checking any alignment measurements. tigued, or broken suspension springs create a
lopsided vehicle appearance and an unbalanced
weight distribution. Anything that changes the
Preliminary Checks ratio of weight on the springs affects the align-
ment angles and also the tire tread contact area.
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- Replace damaged springs as instructed in the
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- applicable suspension section.
tion. Relieve internal stresses in the suspension
by driving the vehicle back and forth in a 6. Check and, if necessary, correct frame rail align-
ment as instructed in Group 31 in this manual.
straight line.
7. Check and, if necessary, adjust rear axle track-
1. Wheel assemblies should be balanced, espe- ing. For instructions, see Group 32 in this
cially for vehicles that travel at sustained speeds manual or the suspension manufacturer’s service
of more than 50 mph (80 km/h). Off-balance literature.
wheel assemblies cause vibrations that result in
severely shortened life for tires and suspension 8. Check the rear axle wheel bearings for wear and
parts. incorrect adjustment. Refer to Section 35.01 for
instructions.
2. Do not mix tires of different size, type, or weight.
Tire wear should be even and not worn to limits
exceeding government specifications. Refer to
Group 40 in this manual and Group 40 in the
Columbia Maintenance Manual for more informa-
tion. Replace any tire that is excessively worn.
3. Check the inflation pressure of the tires. Refer to
Group 40 in this manual for recommended pres-
sures. An underinflated tire causes tread wear
completely around both tire shoulders. An overin-
flated tire causes tread wear in the center of the
tire. See Fig. 1.
A B
12/14/94 f330081a
A. Underinflation Wear B. Overinflation Wear
Checking Using Computerized first arc. See Fig. 2. The point where the two
arcs intersect and the original (or middle) point
Alignment Systems on the opposite frame rail have matching loca-
tions.
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- 4. Line up the straightedge with the two matching
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- points. Check that the straightedge extends out
tion. The turn plates for the front wheels must about the same distance on each side of the
rotate freely without friction, and the alignment frame rail. Using C-clamps, clamp the straight-
equipment must be calibrated every three edge to the frame; see Fig. 3. The straightedge
months by a qualified technician from the equip- must line up exactly with the points.
ment manufacturer. Freightliner dealers must 5. Measuring from the outside edge of each frame
have proof of this calibration history. rail, mark the straightedge on both sides of the
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use of the frame. The marks (Fig. 3, Ref. A) must be of
alignment equipment, and use the alignment mea- equal distance from the frame and as far from
surements given in Fig. 1 and the applicable tables the frame rail as the tires are at their farthest
in Specifications 400. point from the frame.
IMPORTANT: The distance between the mark
Checking Using the Manual on the straightedge and the frame rail must be
equal on both sides of the vehicle.
Method
6. On each side of the vehicle, measure the dis-
IMPORTANT: For vehicle alignment to be accu- tance from the mark on the straightedge to the
rate, the shop floor must be level in every direc- center of the wheel hub. See Fig. 3.
tion. The difference between these measurements
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Relieve inter- should be 1/4 inch (6 mm) or less. See Fig. 1. If
nal stresses in the suspension by driving the ve- the difference is more than 1/4 inch (6 mm), ad-
hicle back and forth in a straight line, or by jack- just the axle alignment. For instructions, see
ing the axle up and letting it down. Group 32 in this manual, or the suspension
manufacturer’s service literature.
2. Chock the front tires and place the transmission
in neutral. Release the parking brakes.
NOTICE
Do not use scribe lines for marking on frame
rails. Scribe lines, which cut or scratch the metal,
can develop into starting points for structural
damage to the frame.
3. Select a point on the frame rail forward of the
rear axle, and mark it using a pencil or soap-
stone. Then mark two other points, exactly 4
inches (102 mm) forward and to the rear of the
original point. Make sure that all three marks are
aligned and of equal distance from the outside
edge of the frame rail. Using a center point or
trammel bar, place one pointer on the forward-
most point, and make an arc with a pencil or
soapstone on the opposite frame rail. Then place
the pointer on the rearmost point and make an
arc on the opposite frame rail intersecting the
C D
03/25/94 B f350110b
A
2
1 3
2 A
4
5
08/24/94 f350065a
A. Marks
1. Straightedge 4. Tape Measure
2. C-Clamps 5. Wheel Hub
01/14/94 f350077a 3. Matching Points
1. Center Point/Trammel Bar
2. Matching Points Fig. 3, Straightedge to Wheel Hub Measurement
A B A
11/02/2011 C f350111a
A. Axle Centerline
B. Left-Hand Axle End Spacing, Measured Manually or with Bee Line Alignment Tools
C. Right-Hand Axle End Spacing, Measured Manually or with Bee Line Alignment Tools
D. Maximum Tolerance as Measured with Hunter Alignment Tools = ±0.08 degree
E. Vehicle Centerline
11/02/2011 f350076a
Materials Required A
4"
sured inside) 2 4
• 20" of 3/8" steel rod
• two 1/2" x 3" pieces of steel square-bar stock 1" 4"
• one 4" x 4" steel plate, 1/8" thick
• two 3/8–16 capscrews (grade 5), 2" long 7 5
• two 3/8–16 hexnuts (equivalent to grade 5)
6
Construction
1. Cut the 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inch (inside measurement) 08/24/94 f350075a
square steel tube in half to obtain two pieces 6
A. Grind to a point.
inches long. These will be the sliding members
(slides) of the center point bar. 1. 3/8-Inch Diameter Rod
2. Weld
2. Cut the 4-inch by 4-inch steel plate diagonally 3. Gusset
into two pieces (gussets). Weld one gusset to 4. 1-Inch Square Steel Tube
each slide, as shown in Fig. 1. 5. 1–1/8 Inch Square Steel Tube
6. 3/8–16 Bolt
3. Cut the steel rod in half to obtain two 10-inch
7. 3/8–16 Nut
rods. Grind one end of each to form a point.
4. Weld the pointed steel rods to the slides and Fig. 1, Center Point Bar Construction
gussets, as shown in Fig. 1.
5. Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the center of each slide,
on the side opposite where the pointer was
welded. Drill through only one side of the tube.
6. Directly over each hole drilled in the step above,
weld a 3/8–16 nut (equivalent to grade 5).
7. Weld a piece of steel stock, about 1/2-inch wide
by 3-inches long, over the head of each of two
3/8–16 by 2-inch long capscrews.
8. Place a slide over each end of the 60-inch piece
of steel tube, with the pointed rods to the out-
side. Screw the handscrews (made in the step
above) into the slides until they are clamped
tightly to the cross tube.
08/29/94
B f350111b
7 8 1
6 2
9
5 10
4
14
3
11
2 1 12
13
3
4
03/22/94 f350056a
1. Cup 3. Cone
2. Tapered Roller 4. Roller Cage
09/15/2009 f350507
Brake Drum
The brake drum and lining work together as a mated
friction pair, with the drum responsible for both heat
absorption and dissipation. Lining performance and
life largely depend on the condition of the drum and
whether it can adequately absorb and dissipate heat
generated by braking action.
Wheel Studs
A headed wheel stud is used on rear axle disc wheel
hub assemblies. Each of these studs has either ser-
rations on the stud body or a flat area on the stud
head to prevent the stud from turning in the wheel
hub. See Fig. 3. Wheel studs are press-fit in the hub.
For replacement procedures, see Subject 180.
2
02/22/94 f350055a
1. Serrations 2. Clipped Head
General Information 1. Shut down the engine and chock the front tires.
Release the parking brakes.
Some Columbia vehicles use ConMet PreSet® hubs, 2. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the tires clear
which are equipped with a unique bearing spacer the ground. Then place safety stands under the
between special inner and outer bearings. See axle.
Fig. 1. 3. For drum brakes, back off the slack adjuster to
release the rear axle brake shoes.
1 2 WARNING
3 Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non-
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis-
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res-
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes,
6 starting with removal of the wheels and continu-
ing through assembly.
4. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies. For in-
structions, see Group 40.
5. For drum brakes, remove the brake drum. See
5
Subject 160 for instructions.
4 NOTE: Oil will spill as the drive axle shaft (or
hub cap) and the wheel hub are removed. Place
02/04/2010 f350512 a suitable container under the drive axle flange
1. Hub 4. Outer Bearing
or hub cap to catch any spilled oil. Dispose of
2. Inner Bearing 5. Axle Spindle the oil properly.
3. Bearing Spacer 6. Retaining Nut 6. Remove the drive axle stud nuts and washers.
See Fig. 3.
Fig. 1, ConMet PreSet Hub, Cut-Away View
8 9 10 11
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
12 13 14 15 16
09/15/2009 f350498
1. Drive Axle Stud Nut 7. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup 12. Bearing Spacer
2. Washer 8. Brake Drum 13. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup
3. Drive Axle Shaft 9. Drive Axle Stud 14. Inner Wheel Bearing
4. Gasket 10. Hub 15. Oil Seal
5. Axilok Nut 11. Wheel Stud 16. Axle Spindle
6. Outer Wheel Bearing
Fig. 2, Typical Wheel End Assembly, Drive Axle with Drum Brakes
NOTICE
Be careful not to let the outer wheel bearing drop
1 from the axle spindle. Dropping the bearing can
warp the cage or damage the rollers, ruining the
bearing. On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS,
use care when working with the hubs. To prevent
damage to the tone wheel, do not drop the hub,
or lay it down in a way that would damage the
tone wheel.
12. Move the hub about 1/2 inch (13 mm) to jar
2
loose the outer wheel bearing (allow the hub-only
assembly to rest on the axle spindle; be careful
not to damage the axle spindle threads).
13. Carefully remove the outer wheel bearing; handle
10/09/2007 f350011a the bearings with clean, dry hands. Wrap the
1. Center Portion of Drive Axle Flange bearings in either clean oil-proof paper or lint-
2. Drive Axle Studs and Nuts free rags.
15. Remove the inner wheel bearing. Handle the If replacing PreSet bearings with non-PreSet
bearings with clean, dry hands, then wrap the bearings, remove the tubular bearing spacer
bearings in either clean oil-proof paper or lint- from inside the hub. Save it for future use to con-
free rags. If the inner wheel bearing remains in vert the hub back to the PreSet system.
the hub after the hub is removed from the axle,
place a protective cushion where it will catch the
bearings, then use a hardwood drift and a light
NOTICE
hammer to gently tap the bearing (and seal, if
necessary) out of the cup.
• On vehicles equipped with WABCO ABS,
16. Remove the oil seal from the axle spindle, if not use care when installing the hubs. To pre-
already removed. See Section 35.02 for oil seal vent damage to the tone wheel, do not drop
removal instructions. the hub or lay it down in a way that would
damage the tone wheel.
Installation • Do not remove the outer wheel bearing
once the hub is installed on the axle. Re-
For a typical wheel end and axle assembly, see moving the outer bearing could cause the
Fig. 2. oil seal to become misaligned, which could
1. Using cleaning solvent, remove the old oil from cause damage to the wheel bearings, the
the axle spindle and the disassembled parts. hub, and the axle spindle.
Allow the parts to dry, or dry them with clean, NOTE: A temporary plastic alignment sleeve
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper. Wrap a may be installed in the center of a new ConMet
protective layer of friction tape on the axle PreSet hub. It will be pushed out when the hub
spindle threads. is installed on the axle spindle. If it is present,
2. On brake drum assemblies with an aluminum remove and discard this sleeve.
hub, coat the hub-to-drum contact surfaces with
6. Mount the bearings and hub on the spindle.
Alumilastic compound or an equivalent.
7. Remove the friction tape, then adjust and secure
3. Coat both bearing assemblies with fresh oil.
the bearings:
Then install the inner wheel bearing and oil seal.
Handle the bearings with clean, dry hands. See • If the axle is equipped with a four-piece
Section 35.02 for oil seal installation instructions. bearing-lock system, see Subject 140;
then go to the next step.
NOTICE • For a Pro-Torq spindle nut, see Sub-
ject 150; then go to the next step.
Use only fresh oil on the bearing assemblies; old
oil could be contaminated with dirt or water (both • For an Axilok spindle nut, see Sub-
are corrosives) and could cause damage to both ject 190; then go to the next step.
wheel bearing assemblies and the wheel hub. 8. Install a new gasket, and the drive axle shaft or,
4. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre- on non-drive axles, the hub cap. The splined end
vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel of the axle shaft must seat before the drive axle
bearing. flange will fit over the studs.
9. If equipped, install the dowels and washers on
NOTICE the drive axle studs. Install the drive axle stud
nuts. Using the sequence shown in Fig. 4,
Do not use a bearing spacer with standard wheel tighten the nuts to the torque values given in the
bearings. To do so may result in too much bear- table in Specifications, 400.
ing end-play, which could damage the wheel
10. For drum brakes, install the brake drum on the
bearings, oil seals, the axle spindle, and the hub.
wheel hub. See Subject 160 for instructions.
5. If using PreSet bearings, ensure the tubular
bearing spacer is in the PreSet hub.
WARNING
Add oil to the axle housing bowl or the wheel
hub after the drive axle shaft and wheel hub have
been serviced. Failure to add oil will damage the
wheel bearings and cause them to seize during
vehicle operation. Seized bearing rollers can
cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi-
bly resulting in personal injury.
12. For drive axles, pour the recommended drive
axle lubricant through the axle housing filler hole.
On Freightliner axles, tighten the oil filler plug 37
lbf·ft (50 N·m).
On Meritor axles, tighten the oil filler plug 35 lbf·ft
(47 N·m).
04/14/94 1 f330020a
1. Cracked Stud Grooves
1 1
2
04/14/94 1 f330019a
1. Wear Spots
04/14/94 f230017a
CAUTION
Do not spin the bearing rollers at any time. Dirt
or grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
premature wear of the bearing assembly. Treat a 04/14/94 f330087a
used bearing as carefully as a new one.
Fig. 6, Indentations, Cracks, or Breaks in Bearing
4. After the bearings are cleaned, inspect the as- Surfaces
semblies, which include the rollers, cones, cups,
and cages. If any of the following conditions ex- 4.3 Bright rubbing marks on the dark phos-
ist, replace the bearing assemblies: phate surfaces of the bearing cage. See
Fig. 7.
4.1 Large ends of rollers worn flush to the
recess, or radii at the large ends of the 4.4 Water etch on any bearing surface. Water
etch appears as gray or black stains on
1
12/07/94 f330013a
1. Maximum Diameter Stamp
1. Inspect the inner friction surface. If a veneered to unacceptable limits. Remachine or replace the
(highly glossed) or glazed surface exists, renew same-axle drums.
the drum by using 80–grit emery cloth or by turn-
6. Inspect the outside surface of the drum. Remove
ing the drums.
any accumulation of mud, dirt, or rust; foreign
2. Inspect for heat checking, which is a form of matter acts as an insulator, trapping heat within
buckling (cracking) resulting from a temperature the drum.
differential in the drum wall between a relatively
7. Check for hard, slightly raised dark-colored spots
cool exterior and a hot friction surface. Heat
on the inner friction surface or for a bluish cast
checking is normal on all drums and may not
on the brake parts, both of which are caused by
impair performance and lining life if the network
high temperatures. If the drums’ maximum allow-
of fine hairline cracks remains small. Examine
able diameters have not been exceeded, rema-
heat checks of drums frequently to be certain the
chine both same-axle drums. If the spots or dis-
checks have not widened into drum weakening
coloration cannot be removed, or if remachining
cracks (substantial cracks extending to the open
is not possible, replace the drums. Also replace
edge of the drum). Replace the same-axle drums
the brake shoe return springs.
if substantial cracks are present, or if widening of
the fine hairline cracks occurs.
NOTE: If normal heat checking as described
above is present, inspect the drums at least ev-
ery 12,000 miles (19 300 km) thereafter. Inspect
the drums (using a flashlight from the inboard
side of the wheels) every 6000 miles (9700 km).
Inspect more often under adverse operating
conditions.
3. Check for a contaminated inner friction surface. If
fluids are present, such as oil or grease, remove
the contaminants. Locate and correct the source
of the contamination. If the brake drums are con-
taminated with fluids, the brake linings will also
be affected. Since oil or grease saturated linings
cannot be salvaged, they must be replaced. For
brake lining replacement procedures, see
Group 42 in this manual.
WARNING
If the brake drums are contaminated with fluids,
replace the brake linings. Failure to replace fluid
contaminated brake linings could result in a par-
tial loss of braking capacity, which could lead to
personal injury or property damage.
4. Measure the inside diameter of the drum. If the
measured diameter is greater than the maximum
allowable diameter, replace the same-axle drums
and linings.
5. Check for a variation in gauge readings at differ-
ent points on the radius of the drum’s working
surface. If the variation is more than 0.010 inch
(0.25 mm) at any point, the drum is out-of-round
Removal
Wheel bearing cups on ferrous hubs are removed
and installed by driving them out and pressing them
in without heating the hub.
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly.
2. Using a mild-steel rod through the opposite end
of the hub, drive against the inner edge of the
bearing cup. Alternately drive on opposite sides
of the cup to avoid cocking the cup and damag-
ing the inside of the hub.
Installation
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including
the bearing cup bores.
2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
bly.
3. Coat the replacement bearing cup hub contact
surface with a film of grease.
4. Position the cup in the hub and press it into
place, using a suitable driving tool. Cups must
seat against the shoulder in the hub.
5. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the
bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
2
1.2 While rotating the wheel hub assembly,
tighten the adjusting nut 200 lbf·ft (271
4 N·m).
5 1.3 Back off the adjusting nut one full turn.
1.4 Tighten the adjusting nut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m)
6
08/08/94 f350128 while rotating the wheel hub assembly.
1. Axle Spindle 4. Lockring 1.5 Back off the adjusting nut one-quarter
2. Adjusting Nut 5. Tanged Nut-Lock
3. Dowel 6. Jam Nut
turn.
NOTE: The gaps between holes in the lockring
Fig. 1, Four-Piece Wheel Bearing Lock Set are spaced unevenly, so to fit the tab on the ad-
justing nut into one of the holes with minimal
Installation turning of the adjusting nut, gauge the distance
on one side of the lockring, then the other, and
Instructions for installing a four-piece wheel bearing choose the side that requires the adjusting nut
lock set for both PreSet and non-PreSet type bear- to be turned the least.
ings are provided in this subject. See the pertinent
instructions for the type you are installing. 2. Install the lockring (as described in the note
above) and nut locking device.
Using PreSet Bearings 3. Install the jam nut, and tighten it 300 to 400 lbf·ft
1. Install the adjusting nut onto the axle spindle, (410 to 540 N·m).
and tighten it 300 lbf·ft (407 N·m). See Fig. 1. 4. Using a dial indicator, measure the end play as
follows.
NOTE: The gaps between holes in the lockring
are spaced unevenly, so to fit the tab on the ad- IMPORTANT: Do not measure the wheel
justing nut into one of the holes with minimal bearing end play with the wheel mounted on
turning of the adjusting nut, gauge the distance the hub; you cannot accurately measure or
on one side of the lockring, then the other, and adjust bearing end play with the wheel
choose the side that requires the adjusting nut mounted on the hub. Also, ensure that the
to be advanced the least. Do not back off the brakes are not applied so that that drum and
nut. hub can move freely.
2. Install the lockring (as described in the note 4.1 On vehicles equipped with aluminum
above) and nut locking device. hubs, install an iron brake drum onto the
3. Install the jam nut, and tighten it 200 lbf·ft (271 hub to provide a ferrous surface for the
N·m). magnetic base of the dial indicator. With
07/10/2009 f350502
2
The indicator should be square with the end of the
spindle.
1. Dial Indicator 2. Spindle End
3
Fig. 3, Indicator Square with the Spindle
4.4 Set the measuring end of the indicator 4.7 Find the end play by noting the difference
against the spindle end as shown in between the two readings.
Fig. 3. The indicator should be square
with the end of the spindle. WARNING
IMPORTANT: Maintain continual pressure on The wheel-bearing end play must be between
the hub until you have taken both the in- 0.001 and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). Correct
board and outboard measurements. If you end play is crucial: if the wheel-bearing end play
release the hub, an accurate measurement is not correct, the wheel bearings could fail. This
is not possible. could cause the loss of the wheel and hub as-
sembly, resulting in an accident causing serious
4.5 To seat the bearings, grip the hub at the injury or property damage. Use a dial indicator to
three o’clock and nine o’clock positions, measure the end play.
07/14/2009 f350500
General Information
Pro-Torq® spindle nuts may be used on Columbia
vehicles. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
6
2 3
1
5 7
1
4
2
3 8
11/13/2009 f350508
Removal
WARNING
Do not place the nut on the spindle or tighten or
loosen the nut on the spindle while the keeper is
locked inside the nut. Doing so may damage the
spindle threads and deform the keeper, and allow 09/15/2009 f350505
the nut to unthread during operation. Failure to
follow this instruction could cause the hub to Fig. 3, Removing the Keeper
separate from the axle, resulting in severe per-
sonal injury or death. 2. Repeat at the other arm, and remove the keeper
from the nut.
1. Insert the blade of a flathead screwdriver (or
similar tool) in the slot of one of the keeper arms; 3. Remove the Pro-Torq nut.
see Fig. 3. Ensuring that the tool contacts the
keeper and not the teeth of the nut, turn the tool
slightly and carefully pry the arm from the under-
cut groove of the nut.
WARNING
1
Do not place the nut on the spindle or tighten or
C
loosen the nut on the spindle while the keeper is
locked inside the nut. Doing so may damage the
spindle threads and deform the keeper, and allow
the nut to unthread during operation. Failure to
follow this instruction could cause the hub to
separate from the axle, resulting in severe per-
sonal injury or death.
Instructions for installing a Pro-Torq spindle nut for
both PreSet and non-PreSet type bearings are pro-
vided in this subject. See the instructions pertaining
to the bearing type used with the hub you are secur- 12/01/2009
A f350511
ing.
A. Engage the mating teeth.
B. Compress the arm.
Using PreSet Bearings C. Turn the screwdriver to seat the keeper in the
1. Ensure the keeper is removed from the nut. groove.
1. Flathead Screwdriver
2. Install the Pro-Torq spindle nut, and tighten it 250
lbf·ft (339 N·m). Do not back it off.
Fig. 4, Installing the Keeper
WARNING WARNING
Do not bend or manipulate the keyway tab in any
way. Doing so may cause it to break off in ser- Failure to secure the keeper and lock the Pro-
vice, which could lead to the hub separating from Torq nut could cause the wheel assembly to
the axle and result in severe personal injury or come off the vehicle, resulting in severe personal
death. injury or death.
4
07/14/2009 5 f350501
1. Flange Nut 4. Magnetic Base
2. Aluminum Hub 5. Iron Brake Drum
3. Dial Indicator
2
07/14/2009 f350500
1
Fig. 7, Pulling the Hub Outward to Measure End Play
WARNING
The wheel-bearing end play must be between
0.001 and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). Correct
end play is crucial: if the wheel-bearing end play
is not correct, bearing life will diminish and the
07/10/2009 f350502 wheel bearings could fail. This could cause the
The indicator should be square with the end of the loss of the wheel and hub assembly, resulting in
spindle. an accident causing serious injury or property
1. Dial Indicator 2. Spindle End damage. Use a dial indicator to measure the end
play.
Fig. 6, Indicator Square with the Spindle 8. The end play must be between 0.001 and
0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If it is not within
7.5 To seat the bearings, grip the hub at the this range, remove the Pro-Torq nut, and repeat
three o’clock and nine o’clock positions,
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 18
17
19 20
A 14
07/07/95 f350135
A. Four-piece bearing system shown, Pro-Torq or Axi-Lok locking nuts could be used.
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Nut-Lock 14. Brake Drum Nut
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 10. Lockring 15. Hub Spacer
3. Oil Seal 11. Adjusting Nut 16. Brake Drum
4. Axle Spindle 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 17. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup
5. Drive Axle Stud Nut 13. Bearing Spacer (used only with 18. Hub
6. Drive Axle Flange and Shaft Con-Met integral wheel bearing 19. Drive Axle Stud
7. Gasket packs) 20. Wheel Stud
8. Jam Nut
05/03/94 f350125
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease, 8. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including clean, lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
the bearing cup bores. diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
A
CAUTION
If headed studs with serrations are being in-
stalled, position the teeth of the serrated portion
in the notches carved by the original wheel studs
during factory installation. If additional metal is
scraped from the wheel stud bores, the locking
action provided by the serrations will be greatly
weakened. Loss of locking action will prevent
achieving final torque of the wheel nuts during
wheel installation. If final wheel nut torques dur-
ing wheel installation cannot be achieved, re-
place the wheel hub assembly.
08/26/94 f330010a
NOTE: If the left side of the vehicle is being ser-
NOTE: Front hub shown. viced, the replacement wheel stud must be
A. Replace stamped with an "L" (left-hand threaded), and
Fig. 1, Wheel Stud Replacement the nut’s face must be stamped "Left" If the right
side of the vehicle is being serviced, the re-
1. Remove the wheel hub from the axle. For in- placement stud must be stamped with an "R"
structions, see Subject 100. (right-hand threaded), and the nut’s face must
2. If a bent portion of a wheel stud will have to pass be stamped "Right." See Fig. 2.
through the wheel stud bore, cut off the bent por- 7. With steady movement, press the new stud all
tion before removing the wheel stud. the way into the hub.
3. Place the wheel hub on a suitable press; make 8. Make sure the stud is fully seated and that its
sure the hub flange is supported evenly around head (flange) is not embedded into the hub. If
and next to the stud being removed. With steady the head of the stud is embedded into the hub,
movement, press the damaged stud out of the replace the hub.
hub.
CAUTION WARNING
Don’t embed the wheel stud heads in the wheel
Do not use a drift and hammer or concentrated
hub. Wheel studs with heads embedded in the
heat for removing and installing the wheel studs.
wheel hub will weaken the wheel hub flange.
08/26/94 f350053a
A. "Right"
General Information
Axilok® spindle nuts are used on ConMet PreSet
hubs. See Fig. 1. These nuts can be damaged if
they are not removed or installed correctly. Use the 3
following guidelines when removing and installing
Axilok retaining nuts.
• Use only the correct size, six-point socket to 1
remove or install Axilok spindle nuts. Do not
use a worn or loose-fitting socket. Do not use 2
a 12-point socket.
• Do not use hammers, chisels, pliers, wrenches,
or power tools to remove or install Axilok nuts.
• Do not use an Axilok nut if the locking clips are 1
damaged or missing, or if the retainer cage tab
or D-flat is damaged or missing.
• Never try to repair a damaged Axilok nut; al-
ways replace it with a new one.
• Always start an Axilok installation by hand. A
good-fitting six-point socket will completely dis-
engage the nut’s locking clips, allowing it to
spin freely by hand. See Fig. 2. Use an accu-
rately calibrated torque wrench to tighten the
nut to its final torque value.
Installation
Instructions for installing an Axilok nut for both Pre-
Set and non-PreSet type bearings are provided in A
this subject. See the pertinent instructions for the
type you are installing.
1
2
1
2
07/10/2009 f350502
The indicator should be square with the end of the
4 spindle.
07/14/2009 5 f350501
1. Dial Indicator 2. Spindle End
1. Flange Nut 4. Magnetic Base
2. Aluminum Hub 5. Iron Brake Drum
Fig. 4, Indicator Square with the Spindle
3. Dial Indicator
3.6 Pull the hub and drum outward while oscil-
Fig. 3, Dial Indicator Setup, Aluminum Hub with Iron lating it as before. Maintain pressure on
Brake Drum the hub, and note the outboard extent of
3.4 Set the measuring end of the indicator the end play. See Fig. 5.
against the spindle end as shown in
Fig. 4. The indicator should be square
with the end of the spindle.
IMPORTANT: Maintain continual pressure on
the hub until you have taken both the in-
board and outboard measurements. If you
release the hub, an accurate measurement
is not possible.
3.5 To seat the bearings, grip the hub at the
three o’clock and nine o’clock positions,
and push inward while oscillating it ap-
proximately 45 degrees. Maintain pressure
on the hub and note the measurement.
NOTE: The end play measurements must be
taken at the same point to prevent an un-
even spindle end from skewing the results. 07/14/2009 f350500
As needed, mark the spot on the spindle Fig. 5, Pulling the Hub Outward to Measure End Play
where the inboard measurement was taken.
3.7 Find the end play by noting the difference
between the two readings.
WARNING
The wheel-bearing end play must be between
0.001 and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). Correct
end play is crucial: if the wheel-bearing end play
is not correct, the wheel bearings could fail. This
could cause the loss of the wheel and hub as-
sembly, resulting in an accident causing serious
injury or property damage. Use a dial indicator to
measure the end play.
4. The end play must be between 0.001 and
0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If it is not within
this range, remove the Axilok nut, and repeat the
tightening sequence as described earlier in this
procedure. Once the end play is correct, con-
tinue with your service procedure.
Measurements
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires.
WARNING
1
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non-
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis- 2
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res-
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes,
starting with removal of the wheels and continu-
ing through assembly.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. See
Group 40 for instructions.
3. For drum brakes, remove the brake drum. See
Subject 160 for instructions.
4. Clean the hub surfaces where the measurements
will be taken—see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
5. To measure lateral runout, set up a dial indicator
as shown in Fig. 1, then turn the hub one revolu-
tion and note the highest and lowest measure-
04/01/2014 f350591
ments.
1. Hub
For ConMet hubs, the acceptable lateral runout 2. Dial Indicator (with roller point)
is 0.008 inch (0.2 mm); for other hubs, see the
hub OEM for the acceptable lateral runout speci- Fig. 1, Setup to Measure Lateral Runout
fication.
6. To measure radial runout, set up a dial indicator
as shown in Fig. 2, then turn the hub one revolu-
tion and note the highest and lowest
For ConMet hubs, the acceptable radial runout is
0.008 inch (0.2 mm); for other hubs, see the hub
OEM for the acceptable radial runout specifica-
tion.
04/01/2014 f350590
1. Hub
2. Dial Indicator (with roller point)
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Problem—Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Possible Cause Remedy
Not enough oil was used on the bearings, Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Coat the
or the wrong type of oil was used. bearing assemblies with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, see Group 35 of
the Columbia Maintenance Manual.
Foreign matter or corrosive agents entered Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Also clean the
the bearing assembly. Dirt or metallic wheel hub, the axle spindle, and any other component in contact with the
debris from the bearings was not removed. bearing lubricant.
An incorrect adjustment of the wheel Adjust the wheel bearings following the instructions in Subject 140 or
bearings is causing noise and wear. Subject 150.
Flat spots or dents on the roller surface Clean, then inspect the bearing rollers. Replace the bearing if damaged. Coat
were caused by skidding of the roller or the replacement bearings with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, see Group
improper handling of the wheel bearing 35 of the Columbia Maintenance Manual.
during installation.
Problem—Damaged Hub
Problem—Damaged Hub
Possible Cause Remedy
(Cracked hub) Local surface of an Replace the hub assembly. When removing the bearing cup, oven-heat the
aluminum hub was heated higher than hub.
350°F (177°C) during bearing cup
removal.
(Bent flange) Incorrect installation of the Replace the hub assembly. Replace the wheel studs as instructed in
wheel studs, such as using a hammer and Subject 180.
drift, or the hub flange was not fully
supported on the press during wheel stud
replacement.
The wrong brake drums were installed. Install new brake drums.
Insufficient tightening of the wheel nuts to Replace the hub assembly and tighten the wheel nuts to the values in the
the wheel hub. torque table in Specifications, 400.
Problem—Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Problem—Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Possible Cause Remedy
The brake linings are glazed (dirt or Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
grease build-up) or are worn unevenly. replace the drums.
The brake drums are worn, heat-checked, Install new brake drums.
or cracked.
Torque Values
Description Size (grade 8) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
1/2–13 70 (95)
Drive Axle Studs (to Hub)
5/8–11 135 (185)
Hub Cap Capscrews 5/16–18 15 (20)
With Dowels 5/8–18 130 to 140 (175 to 190)
Drive Axle Stud Nuts
Without Dowels 5/8–18 150 to 170 (203 to 230)
Dana Spicer axles — 40–60 (54–81)
Oil Filler Plug Meritor axles — 35 (47)
Freightliner axles — 37 (50)
Table 1, Torque Values
Wheel oil seals (also called "oil bath seals" or "hub Chicago Rawhide (See Fig. 1)
seals") work as a dam to keep oil in the hub cavity
so that it constantly "bathes" the wheel bearings. The The Chicago Rawhide Scotseal is a unitized, one-
seals also protect the wheel bearings by keeping dirt, piece design consisting of a sealing element (pack-
dust, and water out of the hub. ing) that is assembled between metal outer and inner
The oil seal fits between the hub bore and the axle cups. The sealing element consists of three sealing
spindle, and the sealing element either turns with the lips; a spring-loaded primary sealing lip that is factory
wheel ( hub-mounted seals) and seals against the pre-lubed and two dirt exclusion lips. The seal is
axle spindle, or the sealing element stays stationary press fit into the hub bore using Scotseal service in-
with the axle spindle ( spindle-mounted seals) and stallation tools. Do not install the Scotseal directly
seals against the turning hub. onto the axle spindle.
Most wheel oil seals consist of four basic parts: Although you install the Scotseal into the hub bore,
the seal’s element grips the axle spindle tightly
• The outside edge (also called the outer "cup" enough that the sealing element stays stationary with
or "case") the spindle and seals against the outer cup which
• The inside edge (also called the inner "cup" or turns with the hub.
"case") The Chicago Rawhide Scotseal maintains a metal-to-
• The sealing element metal contact between the outer cup and the hub
bore surface as well as a metal-to-metal contact be-
• The garter spring tween the sealing element inside edge and the axle
The outside edge is usually metal coated with rubber spindle.
or another sealing agent so that it grips the hub bore
tight enough to prevent oil escaping between the Dana Spicer (See Fig. 2)
outer edge of the seal and the hub bore.
The inside edge is usually metal or rubber with a The Dana Spicer Outrunner has a rubber-coated out-
metal ring within it to prevent the sealing element side edge and is installed in the hub bore using
from wearing a groove in the axle spindle. Dana Spicer installation tools.
The sealing element is usually molded rubber,
leather, or a synthetic such as nitrile or silicone. The
element is molded into lips which will seal against
the axle spindle or against the outside or inside edge
described above. The innermost lip, called the "pri-
mary lip," keeps the oil inside the hub cavity. The
outermost lip, called the "secondary lip," keeps dirt
out of the hub cavity.
The garter spring is a coiled wire spring with its ends
connected to make a loop. On hub-mounted seals,
the spring runs around the outside of the sealing ele-
ment to press the element inwards against the seal-
ing surface. On spindle-mounted seals, the spring
runs around the inside of the sealing element to
press the element outward against the sealing sur-
face.
Freightliner uses two brands of axle oil seals:
• Chicago Rawhide (Scotseal® and Scotseal
Plus®)
1
A 2
3
4
5
8
B
6
05/19/95 f330011a
A. Detail A B. Oil Seal (See detail A)
1. Bore-Tite® Coating 4. Outer Cup 7. Bumper Lip
2 Primary Sealing Lip 5. Inner Cup 8. Hub
3. Dirt Lip 6. Sealing Element (Packing) 9. Hub Bore
Fig. 1, Chicago Rawhide Scotseal
1 2
03/27/95 f330117a
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Chicago
Rawhide Scotseal®.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 35.01.
2. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the axle. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the hub is removed from the axle. In those
cases, place a protective cushion to catch the 11/30/94 f330021a
bearing assembly. Using a hardwood drift and a
light hammer, gently tap the bearing and seal out Fig. 1, Clean the Hub
of the inner wheel bearing cup.
3. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
4. Remove all burrs from the shoulder and the seal
bore with an emery cloth or a file. Clean any
metal filings from the components.
CAUTION
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning the
wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, metal
filings, or other contaminants can scratch the
bearing roller surfaces, and cause premature
wear of the bearing assembly.
08/08/94 f330096a
5. Inspect the bearings and hub components for
wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged Fig. 2, Clean the Spindle
components as necessary.
8. Seat the small outside edge of the seal in the
6. Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil. recess of the tool adapter. See Fig. 3. The cor-
rect adapter is identified on the box.
7. Install the inner wheel bearing cone in the inner
wheel bearing cup.
09/27/2005 f330023a
11/30/94 f330022a
Fig. 3, Place the Seal on the Installation Tool Fig. 4, Insert the Tool in the Hub Bore
09/27/2005 f330024a
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Dana
Spicer Outrunner™ seal.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 35.01.
2. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the axle. Handling the bearings with clean dry 03/08/94 f330026a
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel Fig. 1, Removing the Axle Ring
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the hub is removed from the axle. In those
cases, place a protective cushion to catch the
bearing assembly. Using a hardwood drift and a
light hammer, gently tap the bearing and seal out
of the inner wheel bearing cup.
CAUTION
Never use a sharp chisel to cut through an axle
ring (wear sleeve). A sharp chisel could damage
the spindle or shoulder.
3. Remove the steel axle ring (wear sleeve) by
striking the ring surface several times with a ball-
peen hammer. See Fig. 1. Remove the stretched
axle ring from the spindle.
4. Clean and inspect the bearings, the spindle,
spindle threads, seal bore, and the hub cavity.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning
the wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, 11/30/94 f330021a
metal filings, or other contaminants can
scratch the bearing roller surfaces, and Fig. 2, Clean and Inspect the Hub Bore
cause premature wear of the bearing as- 4.3 After removing the wear sleeve, inspect
sembly. the spindle. Remove any sharp edges
4.1 Inspect the inner hub bore. Remove dirt and burrs from the leading edges and the
and contaminants from all recesses and shoulder area. Repair deep gouges with
corners. Smooth any sharp edges with filler and smooth with an emery cloth.
emery cloth, and fill in any grooves with See Fig. 3.
filler. See Fig. 2. 4.4 Wipe the seal and shoulder area with a
4.2 Wipe the hub area with a clean shop clean shop cloth.
cloth.
2 3
1
03/27/95 f330118
1. Outrunner Handle
2. Outrunner Adapter Plate
3. Bearing Centering Tool
Do not use any silicone or permatex type bore IMPORTANT: Install the seal in the hub bore
sealant with this seal. The Dana Spicer Corpora- with the hub lying flat. Do not install the seal
tion recommends a light coating of bearing oil on with the hub in the vertical (upright) position.
the outer circumference of the seal.
6.2 With the hub and the wheel assembly
Do not mix lubricants of different grades. Do not lying flat on the floor, place the inner
mix mineral and synthetic lubricants. Do not pack bearing cone in the cup.
the bearings with grease when using an oil bath
03/27/95 f330119
03/30/95 f330124
Fig. 6, Position the Seal
Fig. 7, Install the Seal
6.4 Hit the handle of the installation tool gen-
tly. See Fig. 7.
Because of the rubber outer circumfer-
ence, the Outrunner seal is easier to in-
stall than seals with metal outer circum-
ferences. When the adapter plate bottoms
out on the hub surface, the seal is in-
stalled correctly. You will hear a metal-to-
metal sound.
6.5 Check that the seal is not cocked, and
that the unitized seal inner circumference
and inner bearing turn freely.
6.6 Lubricate the inner circumference of the
seal with a light film of clean bearing oil.
7. Install the wheel, drum, and hub on the axle and
adjust the wheel bearings. For instructions, see
Section 35.01.
IMPORTANT: Make sure the required tools are 5.2 Fill any deep scratches with a hardening
available before beginning the service proce- compound and smooth it with an emery
dures described here. See the "Bearing Center- cloth. See Fig. 2.
ing Tool Interchange" and "Adapter Plates"
tables in Specifications, 400.
Replacement
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 35.01.
2. Remove the old oil seal from the hub or spindle.
3. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity.
CAUTION
03/08/94 f330093a
Never use a sharp chisel to cut through an axle
ring. A sharp chisel could damage the spindle or Fig. 2, Clean the Axle Spindle
shoulder.
5.3 Use a clean cloth to remove all dirt, grit,
4. Remove the steel axle ring by striking the ring
and metal filings.
surface several times with a ball-peen hammer.
See Fig. 1. Remove the stretched axle ring from 5.4 Check the seal for a correct fit by placing
the spindle. the seal on the axle spindle, up to the
first rubber rib. The correct seal will not
go any farther.
IMPORTANT: Clean the wheel hub cavity
and axle spindle. Dirt, metal filings, or other
contaminants can scratch the bearing roller
surfaces, and cause rapid wear of the bear-
ing assembly.
5.5 Inspect the hub bore, and remove any
burrs from the leading edge with an em-
ery cloth.
6. Select the seal installation tools designed for use
with National oil bath seals. These should in-
clude a universal handle, an adapter plate, and a
bearing pilot. See Fig. 3.
03/08/94 f330026a
7. Install the seal in the hub.
Fig. 1, Remove the Axle Ring
5. Inspect the spindle shoulder and hub bore. CAUTION
5.1 If necessary, use a file to remove burrs Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
from the leading edges and shoulder grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
area. rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
03/28/95 f330120
03/28/95 f330123
03/28/95 f330122
Replacement
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 35.01.
2. Remove the old oil seal from the hub or spindle.
3. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity. 03/08/94 f330093a
03/08/94 f330095a
CAUTION
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
8. If burrs were removed from the spindle shoulder,
apply a thin layer of non-hardening sealant to the
spindle shoulder. See Fig. 4.
03/08/94 f330027a
1
Fig. 5, Place the Seal on the Spindle
with the hammer to ensure the seal ring is flush
with the face of the shoulder. Wipe off all excess
sealant.
2
3
03/08/94 f330094a
1. Sealant
2. Spindle
3. Shoulder
03/09/94 f330091a
03/09/94 f330092a
Adapter Plates
Seal Adapter Plate Color
848 848-T
849 849-T
852 852-T
854 854-T
Gold
856 856-T
858 858-T
860 860-T
861 861-T
Table 2, Adapter Plates
02/05/2008 f080152
1
2
7
05/23/2005 f350459
1. Differential Carrier 4. Carrier Yoke 6. Rear Axle Housing
2. Radial Shaft Seal 5. Carrier Capscrew 7. Axle Shaft
3. Yoke Nut
new U-bolts, lower U-bolt brackets, and 4. Install the brake spiders on the axle flanges. For
new U-bolt nuts. instructions, see the applicable service brake
section in Group 42.
On vehicles with air suspensions, in addi-
tion to the U-bolts, install the hexnuts that 5. Install the ABS sensors and connect the wiring at
attach the air springs to the suspension the frame rail. Secure the wiring with tie straps
brackets. For torque values, see as needed.
Group 32. 6. Install the brake air chambers and slack adjust-
On vehicles without U-bolts, install the ers on the axle housing brackets. For instruc-
walking beams. tions, see Group 42.
2.2 If applicable, tighten the new U-bolt nuts 7. Connect the air lines to the brake air chambers.
in a diagonal pattern. For torque values, 8. Install the brake shoes, as removed. For instruc-
see Group 32. tions, see the applicable service brake section in
3. Connect the driveshaft to the differential carrier Group 42.
yoke. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- 9. Fill each hub with approved axle oil until you can
ject 120. see a little amount of oil trickling out of the back
of the hub (use about 0.8 quart, or 0.75 liter).
Install the hubs on the axle spindles, and adjust
the wheel bearings. For instructions, see the ap- correctly. Make sure the ride height is correct.
plicable subject in Section 35.01. For instructions, see Group 32.
NOTE: See Table 1 for approved axle oils. 21. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
10. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, connect the approved axle oil, if needed.
DCDL air line, fill the air system, and use the
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An 22. Set the parking brake.
indicator light comes on when the differential lock 23. Remove the chocks from the tires.
is engaged.
11. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For
instructions, see Subject 120.
NOTICE
Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
18. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
lubricant level.
19. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
20. If applicable, connect the suspension leveling
valve(s). Start the engine, build the air pressure,
and make sure the suspension air bags inflate
1
2
7
05/23/2005 f350459
1. Differential Carrier 4. Carrier Yoke 6. Rear Axle Housing
2. Radial Shaft Seal 5. Carrier Capscrew 7. Axle Shaft
3. Yoke Nut
6. Using a hoist (if the axle is removed from the 7.3 In a star pattern, gradually tighten the M16
vehicle) or a suitable transmission jack, install carrier capscrews: 200 lbf·ft (270 N·m).
the differential carrier into the axle housing. Use 8. If removed, install the axle on the vehicle. For
the alignment dowels to center the carrier on the instructions, see Subject 100.
axle housing.
If the axle is already on the vehicle, go to the
7. Install the end caps on the sides of the carrier
next step.
into the corresponding slots in the axle housing.
See Fig. 2. 9. Connect the driveshaft to the carrier yoke. For
instructions, see Section 41.00, Subject 120.
7.1 For the last 3/4 inch (19 mm) or so of
travel, walk the carrier slowly into the 10. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For
housing. instructions, see Subject 120.
IMPORTANT: The end caps fit tightly into the 11. Install the wheels and tires. For instructions, see
axle housing. Be very careful not to cock the Group 40.
carrier. 12. Using approved axle oil, fill the axle housing to
the bottom of the fill hole, or until filled to capac-
7.2 Install the carrier capscrews finger-tight. ity as shown in Table 1.
Make sure the carrier capscrews turn eas-
ily in the axle housing.
1 17. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
2 approved axle oil, if needed.
18. Remove the chocks from the tires.
11/10/2004 f350438
1. Differential Carrier
2. End Cap Bolt
3. End Cap
13. If the hubs are dry, raise one side of the vehicle
about 4 inches (10 cm) to let the oil flow into the
hub on the opposite side, then raise the other
side in the same manner. On each side, hold the
tilted position for three minutes to allow oil to run
into the wheel end.
NOTICE
Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
hubs dry will cause bearing damage
14. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
lubricant level.
15. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
16. Start the engine, build the air pressure, and
check that the suspension air bags inflate evenly
and correctly. Make sure the ride height is cor-
rect.
Removal
1. Chock the front tires.
2. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, use the 3
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An
indicator light comes on when the differential lock
is engaged. Turn the appropriate wheels to en-
sure the lock is fully engaged.
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a suitable jack 2
high enough to clear the axle. Support the axle
with jack stands.
4. Place a basin under the axle shaft flanges to
catch any oil. Dispose of used oil properly.
1
5. If necessary, remove the tires. For procedures,
see Group 40. 12/13/2004 f350440
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the Apply light pressure with the hand or knee at the arrow.
wheels and tires installed or with the wheels Use the adjustable wrench to center the shaft.
and tires removed. 1. Axle Shaft 3. Adjustable Wrench
2. Axle Flange
6. Remove the drive axle stud nuts that attach the
axle shaft to the wheel hub. Fig. 1, Installing the Axle Shaft
7. Tap the axle shaft flange if necessary to loosen it 4. If removed, install the tires and tighten the wheel
and slide the axle shaft out of the axle. Remove nuts according to the procedures in Group 40.
and discard the gasket.
5. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
Installation 6. As needed, replace any oil that was drained from
the hub when the axle shaft was removed.
1. Position a new gasket on the axle shaft flange. 7. Remove the chocks from the front tires.
2. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, ensure it is
engaged.
3. Install the axle shaft, as follows. See Fig. 1.
3.1 Carefully raise the axle with a floor jack,
and support the axle with jack stands.
Slide the axle shaft into the axle.
3.2 Apply light pressure with the hand or knee
to the axle flange.
3.3 Use an adjustable wrench to center the
shaft. Turn the shaft with a slight rotating
motion.
3.4 Install the drive axle stud nuts and tighten
them to the values given.
• 1/2–20 nuts: 75 to 115 lbf·ft (102 to
156 N·m)
• 5/8–18 nuts: 150 to 170 lbf·ft (203 to
230 N·m)
4
5
6
7
05/05/2005 f350456
1. Axle Shaft 4. Input Seal 6. Input Yoke Nut
2. Forward-Rear Axle Housing 5. Carrier Yoke 7. Forward Differential Carrier
3. Carrier Capscrew
2.2 If applicable, tighten the new U-bolt nuts 15. Install the wheels and tires. For instructions, see
in a diagonal pattern. For torque values, Group 40.
see Group 32. 16. Adjust the brakes. For instructions, see the appli-
3. Connect the interaxle driveshaft to the output cable service brake section in Group 42.
yoke of the forward carrier and the input yoke of 17. Uncage the parking brake springs.
the rear carrier. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 41.00, Subject 120. 18. Using approved axle oil, fill the forward-rear axle
housing to the bottom of the fill hole, or until
4. Install the brake spiders on the axle flanges. For filled to capacity as shown in Table 1.
instructions, see the applicable service brake
section in Group 42. 19. Raise one side of the vehicle about 8 inches (20
cm) to let the oil flow into the hub on the oppo-
5. Install the ABS sensors and connect the wiring at site side, then raise the other side in the same
the frame rail. Secure the wiring with tie straps manner. On each side, hold the tilted position for
as needed. three minutes to allow oil to run into the wheel
6. Install the brake air chambers and slack adjust- end.
ers on the axle housing brackets. For instruc-
tions, see Group 42.
NOTICE
7. Connect the air lines to the brake air chambers.
Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
8. Install the brake shoes, as removed. For instruc- hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
tions, see the applicable service brake section in
Group 42. 20. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
lubricant level.
9. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For
instructions, see Subject 120. 21. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
10. Connect the main driveshaft to the forward input
yoke. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- 22. If applicable, connect the suspension leveling
ject 120. valve(s). Start the engine, build the air pressure,
and make sure the suspension air bags inflate
11. Connect the air hoses to the air cylinder for the correctly. Make sure the ride height is correct.
interaxle lock and (if installed) the wheel lock. For instructions, see Group 32.
12. Connect the electrical connector of the sensor 23. Check the operation of the wheel lock, if in-
unit for axles equipped with a wheel lock. stalled.
13. Fill each hub with approved axle oil until you can 24. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
see a little amount of oil trickling out of the back should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
of the hub (use about 0.8 quart, or 0.75 liter). approved axle oil, if needed.
Install the hubs on the axle spindles, and adjust
the wheel bearings. For instructions, see the ap- 25. Set the parking brake.
plicable subject in Section 35.01. See Table 1 26. Remove the chocks.
for approved axle oils.
For forward-rear axle components of a tandem instal- 9.3 Using a pry bar, separate the mating sur-
lation, see Fig. 1. faces of the differential carrier and axle
housing.
Forward-Rear Axle Differential 9.4 When the surfaces are separated, finish
Carrier removing the top two capscrews.
9.5 With the carrier on the jack, slide the car-
Removal rier away from the rear axle housing.
4
5
6
7
05/05/2005 f350456
1. Axle Shaft 4. Input Seal 6. Input Yoke Nut
2. Forward-Rear Axle Housing 5. Carrier Yoke 7. Forward Differential Carrier
3. Carrier Capscrew
1
NOTICE
2 Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
12. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
lubricant level.
13. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
3
14. Start the engine, build the air pressure, and
check that the suspension air bags inflate evenly
and correctly. Make sure the ride height is cor-
rect.
11/10/2004 f350438
15. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
1. Differential Carrier approved axle oil, if needed.
2. End Cap Bolt
3. End Cap 16. Remove the chocks from the front tires.
11. If the hubs are dry, raise one side of the vehicle
about 4 inches (10 cm) to let the oil flow into the
hub on the opposite side, then raise the other
side in the same manner. On each side, hold the
tilted position for three minutes to allow oil to run
into the wheel end.
05/04/2005 f350451
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
Special Tools
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
f580406
f580450
Replacement 5. Install the rear pinion seal on the rear input shaft,
as follows. See Fig. 3.
1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the differential 5.1 Inspect the area around the seal for dam-
carrier. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- age. Use emery paper to remove
ject 120. Using suitable straps, support the end scratches, nicks, or burrs on the seal
of the driveshaft by attaching it to the frame rail. bore.
2. Remove the yoke nut from the center of the car- 5.2 Assemble the rear pinion seal installer
rier yoke. If the yoke nut is round and slotted, onto the threaded end of the universal
use the yoke nut socket shown in Table 1. See handle. See Table 1.
Fig. 1. Be careful not to damage the seal bore.
IMPORTANT: Be careful not to cock the seal
3. Remove the old carrier yoke from the input shaft. during installation.
4. Pry up the seal, using a prybar or large screw-
5.3 Using the rear pinion seal installer assem-
driver. Clean any old sealant from the axle hous-
ing. Do not allow dirt or grease to contaminate bly, press the seal into the bore until the
the seal bore or shaft bearings. See Fig. 2. seal surface is flush with the bottom sur-
face of the counterbore. When the sound
changes in pitch, the seal is in far enough.
2
1
04/01/2008 f350496
NOTE: The yoke nut may be a hexnut rather than the
round, slotted nut shown here.
1. Yoke 2. Yoke Nut
05/05/2005 f350450
1. Input Shaft 3. Carrier Housing
2. Rear Pinion Seal
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580410
f580408
f580450
Table 1, Special Tools for Forward-Rear Axle Yoke and Seal Replacement
3
4
2 5
1
1 2
3
7
input yoke nut on the forward carrier input yoke. 12. Connect the main driveshaft. For instructions,
Tighten the nut 627 lbf·ft (850 N·m). see Section 41.00, Subject 120.
06/21/2005 f350453
Apply a bead of sealant to the inner mating surface as
shown. 2
1. Inside Cover 3. Interaxle Lock Bore 3
2. Mounting Capscrew 4. Sealant
Hole 5. Mating Surface
05/05/2005 f350455
1. Output Yoke 3. Thru-Shaft
2. Output Yoke Nut 4. Axle Housing
Special Tool
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580448
Table 1, Special Tool for Main Differential Lock Disassembly and Assembly
General Information 6. Remove the three bolts that attach the air inter-
face to the carrier housing.
Commonly known as DCDL (Driver-Controlled Differ- 7. Remove the air interface and gasket.
ential Lock), a main differential lock is available on 8. Remove the shift shaft piston from the bore in
single and tandem rear axles. On tandem rear axles the carrier housing, and note the number of
DCDL is available for the forward, rear, or both axles. shims found on the piston. There should be at
The following procedures only apply to Model 4 rear least one shim, and a maximum of three.
axles with optional DCDL.
9. Using the spring compression tool (see Table 1),
Each part of the main differential lock is replaceable. compress the spring and pull the shift fork from
See Fig. 1. the carrier housing.
10. Remove the spring from the carrier housing.
Disassembly
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down Assembly
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
front tires. 1. Install the spring in the carrier housing, and,
using the spring compression tool, compress it to
2. Remove the differential carrier, and place it on a
install the shift fork in the housing. Ensure that
work stand.
the spring is centered in the bore.
To remove a single or rearmost axle differential 2. Ensure the O-ring on the shift shaft piston is
carrier, see Subject 110. properly installed and lubricated. Then install the
To remove a forward-rear differential carrier, see piston, being careful to properly align it in the
Subject 140. bore. Do not force the piston into the bore.
3. Unlatch the retaining clip, and remove it. See 3. Place the air interface and gasket over the air
Fig. 1. interface bore, and insert the three capscrews
that attach the air interface to the carrier hous-
4. Remove the clutch collar. ing. Tighten the capscrews in a regular sequence
5. Remove the DCDL sending unit from the carrier that ensures it seats evenly. Tighten the cap-
housing. screws 19 lbf·ft (25 N·m).
4. Install the clutch collar.
10
11
12
06/25/2012 f350563a
A. Opening in fork loop faces away from the clutch
collar as shown.
1. Sending Unit 8. Shift Shaft Piston
2. Sending Unit Seal 9. O-Ring
3. Spring 10. Air Interface Gasket
4. Snap Ring 11. Air Interface
5. Shift Fork 12. Capscrew
6. Alignment Boss 13. Clutch Collar
7. Shim(s) 14. Retaining Clip
Adjustment
The Interaxle Differential (IAD) has an adjustment
screw that can become loose or even fall out, caus-
ing an oil leak, and malfunction of the IAD. To ensure
the adjustment screw is properly tightened and se- 1
cured, follow the steps below. The IAD is sometimes
called the power divider. See Fig. 1.
1. Chock the front tires.
2. Use the IAD switch in the cab to engage the
lock.
3
3. At the forward-rear axle, rotate one of the wheels 2
to ensure the teeth of the lock fully engage the
teeth of the gear inside the carrier housing.
4. Remove the adjustment screw, and using a suit-
able solvent (such as brake cleaner), clean the
threads of the screw and bore. Dry the surfaces 01/21/2008 f350494
completely, making sure no cleaning solvent re- 1. Carrier Housing 3. Adjustment Screw
mains. 2. Lock Nut
5. Coat the threads of the adjustment screw with Fig. 1, Interaxle Differential and Adjustment Screw
Loctite® 577, install it, and hand-tighten it until it
hits the shaft.
6. Disengage the IAD to relieve the air pressure
exerted on the adjustment screw.
7. Hand-tighten the adjustment screw one quarter
turn, then tighten the locknut 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m).
8. Remove the chocks.
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
f580410
Repair
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine,
and chock the tires. 3
2
2. Disconnect the main driveshaft from the forward
carrier input yoke. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 41.00, Subject 120. Using suitable straps,
support the end of the driveshaft by attaching it
to the frame rail.
3. Remove the yoke nut and washer from the input 4
shaft of the forward differential carrier, then re-
move the yoke. 5
4. Remove the capscrew and the locking plate from
the bearing cage on the front of the differential 1
carrier. See Fig. 1. 09/15/2006 f350472
5. Using a spanner wrench, remove the threaded 1. Bearing Cage
ring to expose the bearing cavity. See Fig. 2. 2. Threaded Ring
3. Input Shaft (yoke removed)
6. Using a suitable solvent, such as brake cleaner, 4. Capscrew
clean the surface of the bearing cavity. See 5. Locking Plate
Fig. 2. Dry the surface, making sure no cleaning
solvent remains. Fig. 1, Forward-Rear Axle Differential Housing
7. Coat the threads of the threaded ring with Loc-
then spread the sealant evenly over the threads,
tite® 577 sealant. Apply a 1/8-inch (3-mm) diam-
so that all threads are thoroughly covered with
eter bead all the way around the bottom thread,
the sealant.
09/18/2006 f350468
A. Clean and dry this entire surface. 2
09/18/2006 f350473
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
17
18 16
15
14
19 12
11
20 13
21
22
10
4 9
3 8
2
1 7
6
11/02/2011 f350514
1. Yoke Nut 9. Piston Spring 16. IAD Adjustment Screw
2. Washer 10. Shift Fork 17. Output Bearing Race
3. Input Shaft Seal 11. Shift Shaft Bushing 18. IAD Assembly
4. Threaded Ring 12. Shift Shaft Bushing O-ring 19. Clutch Collar
5. Bearing Cage Capscrews 13. Cover Plate 20. Input Bearing Race
6. Bearing Cage 14. Carrier Housing 21. Locking Plate
7. Shift Shaft Piston O-ring 15. Locknut 22. Locking Plate Capscrew
8. Shift Shaft Piston
f580478
f580480
f580476
f580479
f580477
f580481
Replacement
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
front tires.
2. Ensure the interaxle differential is disengaged
and the system is charged with air. The rear
wheels will need to turn near the end of this pro-
cedure.
3. Place a suitable strap around the driveshaft and
frame to hold the driveshaft out of the way after
it is disconnected.
4. Disconnect the main driveshaft from the forward
carrier input yoke (for instructions, see Sec-
tion 41.00, Subject 120), and support it with the
strap.
5. Clean the carrier housing and surrounding area
as needed to remove any debris that could enter
the housing.
6. Drain the oil from the carrier housing.
07/15/2010 f350515
7. Disconnect the air line connected to the bearing
cage. Fig. 2, Tapping the Bearing Cage Loose
8. Remove the yoke nut and washer from the input 12. Remove the IAD adjustment screw and locknut.
shaft of the forward differential carrier, then re-
move the yoke.
9. Remove the capscrew and the locking plate. See
NOTICE
Fig 1. When unseating the shift shaft piston, multiple
10. Using a spanner wrench, remove the threaded taps may be needed, but use moderate force only
ring by turning it counterclockwise. and be careful to hit the piston only (not the
housing). Stop tapping it once it protrudes from
11. Remove the bearing cage capscrews from the the housing. The use of excessive force, or tap-
bearing cage, and pry the bearing cage from the ping it while it protrudes from the housing can
carrier housing. It may help to tap the bearing damage the piston and the housing.
cage loose with a chisel; see Fig. 2.
NOTICE
The IAD assembly is heavy. Use appropriate sup-
port while removing and transporting it to pre-
vent dropping and damaging it. Do not allow it to
rest on the oil slinger; see Fig. 3. Resting the IAD
assembly on the oil slinger could damage the oil
slinger.
07/15/2010 f350517
15. Remove the IAD assembly.
Fig. 4, Removing the Output Bearing Race
1
2
07/15/2010 f350516 3
2
1
08/04/2010 f350527 07/15/2010 f350518
07/19/2010 f350520
1
2
2
08/31/2010 f350522a
1. Oil Return 2. Shift Shaft Piston
08/04/2010 f350521
1. Capscrews 2. Hex Screw Fig. 11, Sealant Applied to Carrier Housing
Fig. 12, Push-Pull Device, Installed Fig. 13, Dial Indicator and Push-Pull Device
Torque Values
Application Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
All Model 4 Axles
Carrier Capscrews M16 200 (270)
1/2–20 75–115 (102–156)
Drive Axle Stud Nuts
5/8–18 150–170 (203–230)
Yoke Nut (model 4 axles) M45 x 1.5 627 (850)
Forward-Rear Axles
Bearing Cage Capscrews M12 107 (145)
Input Yoke Nut M45 x 1.5 627 (850)
Output Yoke Nut M39 x 1.5 516 (700)
Table 1, Torque Values
f580406
f580410
f580408
f580450
f580478
f580480
f580476
f580479
f580477
f580481
General Information
WHEELS AND TIRES
The tires support the weight of the vehicle, and are
integral parts of the transmission and braking sys-
tems. The wheels serve as load carrying members
between the tires and the axle.
Disc wheels consist of a rim and disc. The rim, the
portion of the wheel on which the tire is mounted and
supported, is welded to the disc. See Fig. 1. After
the tire is mounted on the wheel, the assembly is 05/13/94 f400029a
held in place on the hub with wheel studs and nuts.
Fig. 2, Radial Ply Tire Construction
2
require only the tire, and a one-piece drop-center
wheel or rim. See Fig. 1.
1
TIRE MATCHING AND MIXING
IMPORTANT: Review and follow these require-
ments for matching and mixing tires, before in-
stalling any tire and wheel or rim assembly on a
vehicle.
Before changing wheels and tires, consider the effect
that the change may have on the Gross Vehicle
05/13/94 f400036a Weight Rating (GVWR) of the vehicle. At the time of
vehicle certification, the GVWR is calculated by add-
1. Disc 2. Rim
ing the vehicle’s Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR).
Fig. 1, Disc wheel The GVWR and each of the GAWRs are shown on a
certification label (U.S.-purchased tractors) or "State-
Standard ten-hole dual disc wheels are held in place ment of Compliance" label (Canadian-purchased
on the hub by self-centering inner and outer wheel tractors) attached to the left rear door post. See
nuts. Eight-hole and optional ten-hole (single and Fig. 3.
dual) disc wheels are centered by pilot pads and are
held in place on the hub with cone locknuts. Tire and rim labels certify the minimum tire and rim
combinations that can be installed on the vehicle for
The radial tires have ply cords that run from bead to the given GAWRs. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4. Each
bead, and at a right angle to the belt plies and tire GAWR is determined by considering each compo-
tread. See Fig. 2. The belt plies constrict the radial nent of the axle system, including suspension, axle,
ply cords and give rigidity to the tread. wheels, and tires. The lowest component’s capacity
Tire body plies, breakers, and belts are made of is the value used for the system. Therefore, the tires
polyester, rayon, nylon, fiberglass, steel, or aramids and rims installed on the vehicle at the time of ve-
(fibrous reinforcements). In radial ply tires, these ma- hicle manufacture may have a higher load capacity
terials are used in various combinations, including than that certified by the tire and rim label.
steel body/steel belt, polyester body/fiberglass belt, Tires and rims of the minimum capacity can be in-
or nylon body/steel belt. stalled without changing the load limitations. If tires
Wheels and tires operate either with or without tubes. and rims are installed that have a lower load capacity
Tube-type tires require a tube and flap for correct than that shown on the tire and rim label, then the
assembly on a two-or three-piece rim. Tubeless tires tires and rims determine the load limitations (the
GAWRs and GVWR will be lower).
05/13/94 f400028a
1. Endless Pi Tape
05/13/94 f600174a
NOTE: Examples only. Actual specifications may vary
from vehicle to vehicle. 1
Fig. 4, Tire and Rim Labels
When pairing tires in a dual assembly, the tire diam-
05/13/94 f400089a
eters must not differ by more than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm),
or the tire circumference by more than 3/4 inch (19 1. Square
mm). The total tire circumference of one driving rear Fig. 6, Square
axle must match, as nearly as possible, the total tire
circumference of the other driving rear axle. When pairing tires of unequal diameters (but within
the above limits), mount the larger tire on the out-
CAUTION side.
05/13/94 f400087a
1. Tire Straight Edge
CAUTION
3
Keep the wheel square to the hub during re-
moval. The wheel center hole and hub pilot have
close tolerances. If the wheel is not kept square 08/20/93 f400083a
to the hub, it could bind during removal and
damage the stud threads or hub-pilot pads. A. Apply oil here.
1. Cone 3. Locknut Body
IMPORTANT: On both sides of the vehicle, the 2. Locknut Threads
two-piece flange nuts have right-hand threads. Fig. 1, Cone Locknut Lubrication (8-hole disc wheels)
6. Leaving one top and one bottom nut to keep the
IMPORTANT: Freightliner "Turbo" wheel assem-
wheel straight, remove the other eight two-piece
flange nuts from the wheel. Then, remove the blies require directional mounting, as shown in
top and bottom nuts. Fig. 3.
7. Remove the wheel. Do not let it drop on, or drag IMPORTANT: Before installing the wheels, make
across, the stud threads. sure the drum is in position on the raised step
of the pilot pad. One of the hub’s pilot pads
Installation must be centered at the top. To help keep the
drum in place, it may be necessary to adjust the
1. Inspect the wheel and tire assembly using the brakes before installing the wheels.
instructions in Subject 130 and Subject 140.
1
A
CAUTION
Keep the wheel square to the hub during installa-
tion. The wheel center hole and hub pilot have
close tolerances. If the wheel is not kept square
to the hub, it could bind during installation and
damage the stud threads or hub-pilot pads.
2
IMPORTANT: Install the wheel assembly so that
the balance weight(s) on the wheel are opposite
the balance weight(s) on the brake drum.
6. Using a jack or wheel-and-tire dolly, install the
3
wheel assembly (inner wheel on a dual wheel
assembly) on the hub. Make sure the wheel is
square to the hub. Be careful not to damage the
08/20/93 f400051a
threads or hub-pilot pads.
A. Apply oil here.
1. Flange 3. Nut Body
6.1 Before placing the wheel assembly on the
2. Nut Threads hub, rotate the wheel as needed until the
balance weight(s) on the wheel are 180
Fig. 2, Two-Piece Flange Nut (10-hole disc wheels) degrees from the weight(s) on the brake
drum.
5. Turn the hub until one hub-pilot pad is in the top-
center position. 6.2 Make sure the hub-pilot pad is still cen-
tered at the top after the wheel is in-
stalled.
7. On a dual wheel assembly, repeat the previous
step to mount the outer wheel against the inner
wheel.
7.1 Before placing the outer wheel assembly
on the hub, rotate the wheel as needed
until the balance weight(s) on the wheel
are 180 degrees from the weight(s) on the
brake drum.
7.2 If this causes the valve stems to be in the
same wheel hole, mount the outer wheel
so that the outer wheel balance weight(s)
are on the same side as the brake drum
balance weight(s).
CAUTION
The wheel nuts have right-hand metric threads.
Do not try to install a similar size SAE nut on a
08/23/93 f400101 stud, or the stud and nut will be damaged.
Fig. 3, Directional Freightliner "Turbo" Wheel 8. Install the wheel nuts on the studs.
• On 8-hole disc wheels, install and hand-
tighten cone locknuts on a top and oppos-
ing bottom stud.
CAUTION 5 4
Use the specified torque values and follow the
correct tightening sequence. Too little wheel nut 7 9
torque can cause wheel shimmy, wheel damage, 2
stud breakage, and extreme tire tread wear. Too 08/20/93 f400080a
much wheel nut torque can break studs, damage
threads, and crack discs in the stud hole area. Fig. 5, 10-Hole Disc Wheel Tightening Sequence
11. Tighten the nuts in two stages. Follow the se- locking ability. In this situation, the wheel hub
quence in Fig. 4 for 8-hole disc wheels or Fig. 5 assembly is damaged and must be replaced
for 10-hole disc wheels. with a new assembly. Failure to reach minimum
11.1 On all disc wheels, tighten the nuts initially torque values could also be caused by stripped
to 50 to 100 lbf·ft (68 to 136 N·m). threads on the wheel studs or wheel nuts.
11.2 On 8-hole disc wheels, tighten the cone NOTE: Nuts on double-threaded wheel studs
locknuts 450 to 550 lbf·ft (610 to 745 should be tightened 390 to 450 lbf·ft (529 to 610
N·m). N·m).
On 10-hole disc wheels, tighten the two-
piece flange nuts 450 to 500 lb·ft (610 to WARNING
678 N·m).
Always replace damaged parts with new parts.
Failure to replace damaged parts could result in
A the loss of a wheel or loss of vehicle control,
1 2
which could cause personal injury or property
damage.
7 4
12. Replace any damaged parts. Follow the instruc-
tions in Section 33.01 to replace front-axle parts,
or Section 35.01 for rear-axle parts.
13. Remove the safety stands, lower the vehicle, and
5 6
remove the chocks.
IMPORTANT: The wheel nuts seat during ve-
hicle operation. As a result, it is necessary to
3 8
periodically tighten the nuts to the specified
08/20/93 f400052a torque.
A. Top 14. After operating the vehicle for 50 to 100 miles
Fig. 4, 8-Hole Disc Wheel Tightening Sequence (80 to 160 km), retighten the wheel nuts.
• 8-Hole Disc Wheels—following the tighten-
IMPORTANT: If the wheel nuts cannot be tight- ing sequence in Fig. 4, tighten the cone
ened to minimum torque values, the studs could locknuts 450 to 550 lbf·ft (610 to 745 N·m).
be turning in the hub flange, having lost their
Service Precautions • Never use a part that does not bear clear, leg-
ible, and correct numbers and manufacturer’s
identification, even if that part appears to fit.
WARNING • Do not reinflate a tire that has been driven flat,
Read the following information. Failure to follow or has been driven at 80 percent or less of its
the safety precautions, before and during tire de- recommended operating pressure. Use your
mounting and mounting, could cause tire or rim spare.
damage while servicing or in use. An incorrectly • Before removing a low tire from the vehicle,
mounted tire can burst, which could result in per- make sure it is completely deflated. Later,
sonal injury or equipment damage. have the assembly taken apart and all the
parts checked for damage, including the side
IMPORTANT: Do not mount or demount tires ring or lockring.
without proper training, as required in Occupa-
TOOLS
tional Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
Rules and Regulations 1910.177, Servicing • Use special tools, as recommended by tire
Multi-Piece and Single Piece Rim Wheels. suppliers, for demounting and mounting tires.
These tools must be smooth and used with
Service information containing demounting and care to avoid gouging the rim.
mounting instructions are available through your rim
supplier. Charts detailing service procedures are • Loosening tire beads may be difficult, since
available through OSHA area offices. considerable force may be needed. The use of
a machine designed for loosening tire beads is
The address and telephone number of the nearest recommended.
OSHA area office can be obtained by looking in the
local telephone directory under U.S. Government, • Do not use a duck-bill hammer or any steel
Labor Department of Occupational Safety and Health hammer on wheel or rim parts. Use rubber,
Administration. leather-faced, or plastic mallets to tap parts
together, if necessary.
Use the information from the above sources with the
following precautions before and during tire demount- HANDLING
ing and mounting. • Handle the wheels and rims on a wooden floor
SAFETY or rubber mat to prevent nicking or gouging
the wheel or rim.
• The air pressure contained in a tire is danger-
ous. When servicing a tire, stay out of any po- • Make sure that tires are stored indoors, or out-
tential path or route that a rim wheel compo- doors under cover, to prevent water collecting
nent may travel during an explosive inside the tire.
separation. LUBRICATION
• Examine all wheel and tire parts as explained • Lubricate the tire with an approved tire-
in Subject 130 and Subject 140. Replace mounting lubricant. Never use antifreeze, sili-
damaged, rusted, or worn parts. cones, petroleum-based lubricants, or any
• Be sure all parts of an assembly match in size, flammable material, such as ether or some
manufacturer, and classification within a manu- other starting aid.
facturer’s line. Wheels and rims are under • When lubricating a tire prior to mounting, make
stress, and are dangerous if improperly as- sure excess lubricant does not run into the tire.
sembled.
• Michelin Tire Corporation recommends apply-
• Before assembling the wheel or rim, check the ing lubricant to the valley of the tire, formed by
catalog issued by the wheel or rim manufac- the tire and rim, before using tools to break the
turer for the correct part numbers and sizes of bead.
approved parts.
• Michelin also recommends applying a sufficient
but sparing amount of lubricant to the entire
Five-Degree Full Drop Center 2.5 Turn the rim over and repeat the previous
substeps to loosen the second bead from
the rim.
WARNING
Read the information in Subject 110. Failure to
follow the precautions, before and during tire de-
mounting and mounting, could cause tire or rim
damage while servicing or in use. An incorrectly
mounted tire can burst, which could cause per-
sonal injury and equipment damage.
MOUNTING
1. Install the valve stem in the tire.
1.1 Place the valve stem, with a rubber
washer, through the valve hole from the
tire side of the rim.
1.2 Screw the valve nut on the stem from the
opposite side. Make sure the rubber
bushing and metal collar or nut are cen-
tered and fit snugly in the valve hole. See
Fig. 4.
1.3 Tighten the nut securely.
05/13/94 f400004a
05/13/94 f400006a
05/13/94 f400007a
05/13/94 f400008a
Fig. 5, Working the Lower Bead into the Rim
Fig. 6, Working the Upper Bead into the Rim
4. Work the upper tire bead into the rim well.
5. Inflate the tire. Follow the instructions in Sub-
4.1 Start the upper tire bead over the rim ject 150.
flange and into the rim well by standing
on the tire. If necessary, push a section of
the bead into the rim well and anchor it
by attaching Vise-Grip® pliers to the rim
flange with the snub side toward the tire.
4.2 Using the spoon end of the tire iron, with
the stop toward the rim, work around the
bead. See Fig. 6. Use small bites until
the bead slips over the flange and into
the rim well.
4.3 If necessary, insert a second tire iron and
relubricate the last 8 inches (20 cm) of
the bead.
IMPORTANT: Inflate tires immediately after
mounting, before the tire lubricant dries. Once
the lubricant dries, bead positioning is not pos-
sible, even with increased inflation pressure.
Inspection Inspect valve cores for cracks, bends, and air reten-
tion. Replace damaged or leaky cores.
The most critical area of a spoke wheel is the 28-
WARNING degree tapered rim mounting surface See Fig. 2.
Inspect the tires and wheels, and correct any Clean the surface and examine it for damage or ex-
problems. Failure to do so could cause tire or rim cessive wear. Replace the wheel if the mounting sur-
damage while servicing or in use. An incorrectly face is damaged or worn below the 28-degree taper.
mounted tire can burst, which could cause per- Check the clamps, rim spacer, rim studs, and spoke-
sonal injury or property damage. wheel nuts for damage or wear. The clamps must not
be excessively worn. The end of the wedge portion
Examine the wheel or rim, and all parts. Remove any must be at least 1/16-inch (1.5-mm) thick. See
grease, dirt, or rust. Using a wire brush, remove any Fig. 3. The rim spacer must not be bent, distorted, or
rubber from the bead seat. Use special care when crushed. Replace all damaged or broken parts.
cleaning the rim gutter. Rust or other foreign matter
can prevent the correct fitting of side rings. Replace
corroded parts. Paint the rim to prevent corrosion.
1
NOTE: Do not paint Alcoa aluminum disc
wheels. If the wheels are corroded, contact the
manufacturer for instructions.
Sprung or broken side rings, a cracked rim, wheel (
Fig. 1), or brake drum, damaged inner or outer
wheel nuts, or an out-of-round wheel or rim, requires
the replacement of the damaged part. Replace the
wheel if it has out-of-round stud holes.
05/16/94 f400077a
1. 28-Degree Tapered Rim Mounting Surfaces
1 1
05/16/94 f400078a
05/16/94 f400030a
A. End of wedge must be at least 1/16" (1.5 mm)
1. Crack
thick.
Fig. 1, Cracked Wheel and Rim
Fig. 3, Rim Clamp
NOTE: For inspection and service procedures Do not attempt to rework, weld, heat, or braze any
for the hub, wheel studs, wheel, and brake drum rim or wheel parts that are cracked, broken, or dam-
assemblies, see Section 33.01 for front-axle aged. Use new parts or parts that are not cracked,
parts, or Section 35.01 for rear-axle parts. broken, or otherwise damaged, and that are of the
When replacing the spoke wheel or the brake same size and type.
drum, contact the wheel manufacturer for the Remove all foreign matter, such as grease and dirt,
correct torque value for the brake drum nut that from the wheel mounting surface. Smooth any pro-
attaches the spoke wheel to the brake drum.
Inspection always mount a used flap in the same size tire and
on the same size rim as the one from which it was
removed.
WARNING Michelin Tire Corporation recommends using only
Inspect the tires and wheels, and correct any new tubes, flaps, valve cores, caps, and O-rings in a
problems. Failure to do so could cause tire or rim new mounting.
damage while servicing or in use. An incorrectly
mounted tire can burst, which could cause per-
sonal injury and equipment damage.
Tire Inflation
IMPORTANT: Inflate tires immediately after
mounting, before the tire lubricant dries. Once
the lubricant dries, bead positioning is not pos-
sible, even with increased inflation pressure.
1. Check all parts to make sure they are correctly
seated prior to inflation.
WARNING
During initial tire inflation, there is the possibility
of an explosion of the assembly. Observe the fol-
lowing safety rules to reduce the possibility of
serious physical injury in the event of an explo-
sion.
• Inflate tires in a safety cage or an approved
portable restraining device.
• Always use a clip-on chuck with an inline valve
and gauge.
• Make sure the inflation hose is long enough to
05/16/94 f400023a
permit standing to the side of the tire during
inflation. Fig. 1, Safety Cage for Tire Inflation
• Never sit on, or stand in front of, an assembly
that is being inflated. • Rubber rings, which seal between the tire
bead and rim, allowing the bead to move out
2. Place the tire in a safety cage, or an approved and seat correctly. A well-lubricated, heavy-
portable restraining device. See Fig. 1. duty bicycle tube can be used to help seal be-
tween the tire bead and rim.
IMPORTANT: Water in the tire can cause ply
separation. During tire inflation, air tank reser- 5. Continue to inflate the tire to the recommended
voirs and lines must be dry. Use well-maintained pressure. See Specifications, 400 for correct
air line moisture traps, and service them regu- cold-inflation pressures.
larly. • Michelin Tire Corporation recommends an
initial pressure of 90 to 100 psi (620 to 690
3. Inflate the tire 10 psi (69 kPa).
kPa) for this step to correctly seat the tire
4. Check the parts for correct seating. If the seating beads.
is not correct, completely deflate the tire and cor- • The position of the beads, flap, and tube
rect the problem. Never attempt to seat rings or with 4 to 5 psi (28 to 35 kPa) pressure is
other parts by hammering on an inflated or par- shown in Fig. 2. The tube is fully rounded-
tially inflated tire. out within the tire, but there isn’t enough
IMPORTANT: Due to the different flex character- pressure to move the beads on wide-base
istics of radial sidewalls, it may be necessary to rims.
use an inflation aid, such as the following, to • Depending on the tire size and rim condi-
help seat tubeless tire beads: tion, from 20 to 40 psi (140 to 275 kPa)
pressure is needed to push the beads onto
• Metal rings, which use a blast of compressed
the bead seat. See Fig. 3.
air to seat the beads.
WARNING
Inflate tires to the specified pressure. Tire under-
inflation or overinflation will damage wheels and
tires, and could result in a blowout, which could
cause personal injury and property damage.
General Information
1
Runout is side-to-side (lateral) or up-and-down (ra-
dial) movement when the tire/wheel assembly is ro-
tated. Runout can be measured with a dial indicator,
a tire runout gauge, or another instrument capable of
measuring small movements of the tire/wheel assem-
bly.
Lateral runout, shown in Fig. 1, is side-to-side move-
ment of the rotating tire/wheel assembly. This may
cause a perceived "shimmy" or "wobble".
2
3
02/06/2013 f400371
1. High Spot 3. Dial Indicator
2. Low Spot
• inflation;
• wheel nut torque;
• bead seating on the rim.
Use a tire runout gauge, as shown in Fig. 3, to
02/04/2013 f400372
check lateral and radial runouts of the entire wheel
end assembly.
Fig. 1, Lateral Runout Check radial runout on a smooth rib in the center of
Radial runout, shown in Fig. 2, is a changing radius the tread. Check lateral runout on a smooth surface
of the rotating tire/wheel assembly. For a tire or along the tire’s mid-sidewall. If the wheel end assem-
wheel, its effect is to raise and lower the vehicle as it bly radial runout exceeds 0.060 inch (0.2 cm), or the
rolls along, giving the perception of a vertical "hop" lateral runout exceeds 0.150 inch (0.4 cm), the tire/
or "bounce". wheel assembly should be removed to check the
brake drum and hub runouts. Brake drum and hub
If a tire and wheel assembly shows visible up-and- runout tolerances are as follows:
down or side-to-side movement, it may have exces-
sive runout. Use the inspection procedure that fol- • brake drum lateral runout—0.045 inch (0.11
lows to measure runout. cm)
• brake drum radial runout measured inside of
Inspection the drum—0.020 inch (0.050 cm)
• hub lateral runout measured at the face of the
IMPORTANT: Before checking wheel runout, hub—0.015 inch (0.38 cm)
check the tires for proper:
• hub radial runout measured near the hub Wheel Runout Specifications
pilots—0.015 inch (0.38 cm)
Lateral Runout: Radial Runout:
If hub and brake drum runouts are within specifica- Wheel Type
inches (cm) inches (cm)
tion, then the wheel runout will need to be checked.
Aluminum 0.030 (0.08) 0.030 (0.08)
Demount the tire from the wheel and check lateral
and radial runouts for the wheel as shown in Fig. 4. Steel 0.060 (0.15) 0.060 (0.15)
For tire demounting instructions, see Sec- Table 1, Wheel Runout Specifications
tion 40.00, Subject 120. Make certain the wheel is
properly fixed in a wheel balancer or remounted on
the hub. See Table 1 for wheel runout specifications.
1 1
A B
02/04/2013 f400373
2 2
1
1
A B
02/04/2013 f400374
A. Tubeless Aluminum Disc Wheel B. Tubeless Steel Disc Wheel
1. Lateral Runout 2. Radial Runout
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Abnormal Tire Wear
Problem—Abnormal Tire Wear
Possible Cause Remedy
Tires are not inflated to the correct Operate the tires at the recommended inflation pressure and use the proper
pressure. size tires, wheels, and rims for the load to be carried. Refer to
Specifications, 400.
Inflation pressures in a dual assembly are Inflate all tires to a uniform pressure, within 5 psi (35 kPa). Refer to
unequal. Specifications, 400 for the proper cold inflation pressures.
Dual tires are mismatched. Examine all tires and match them according to the specifications in this
section.
Vehicle is vibrating severely. Follow the recommendations under "Problem—Vehicle Vibration" in this
subject.
Brakes are grabbing. Examine and adjust the brakes according to the instructions in Group 42 in
this manual.
Axles are improperly aligned. Align the axles according to the instructions in Section 33.00 (front-axle) and
Section 35.00 (rear-axle).
Wheel bearings are loose or damaged, or Examine, and repair or replace according to the instructions in Section 33.01
bushings are excessively worn. (front axle) or Section 35.01 (rear axle).
Wear is uneven among tire sets. Rotate the tires according to the instructions in Subject 140.
Driver is abusing equipment. Caution the driver.
Problem—Vehicle Vibration
Problem—Vehicle Vibration
Possible Cause Remedy
Axles are improperly aligned. Align the axles according to the instructions in Section 33.00 (front-axle) and
Section 35.00 (rear-axle).
Wheels, rims, or tires are out-of-round, Replace damaged components.
bent, or distorted.
Tires, wheels, rims, or brake drums are Determine the out of balance component and balance.
out-of-balance.
Tire beads are not properly seated. Demount and mount the tire. Make certain adequate lubrication is used and, if
necessary, use an inflation aid to help seat tubeless tire beads.
Tire and rim assembly is improperly Remove the tire and rim assembly and inspect it for out-of-round or rim
installed on a spoke wheel. chording. Replace the rim if it is damaged. Follow closely the tightening
sequence and torque values listed.
Rim spacers are worn or distorted. Replace the rim spacers.
Driveline, suspensions, or steering Determine the location of the vibration, then repair or replace the loose or
components are loose or worn. worn components.
15
14
13
16
3
8 9
7 12
11
1
2
10
6
5
4
3
05/01/95 f410067b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
1. Transmission 6. U-Joint Cross 11. Dust Cap
2. Transmission Output-Shaft End- 7. Bearing Cup (for half-round 12. Splined Stub Shaft
Yoke (half-round) yoke) 13. Driveshaft Tube
3. U-Joint Assembly 8. Bearing Strap and Bearing-Strap 14. Tube-Yoke (full-round)
4. Bearing Plate Self-Locking Capscrew 15. Axle Input-Shaft End-Yoke (half-
Capscrew 9. Slip-Joint Assembly round)
5. Bearing Cup (for full-round yoke) 10. Sleeve-Yoke (full-round) 16. Rear Axle
line. See Fig. 2, examples B and C. A driveline con- A long driveshaft, supported only at its ends, will sag
necting a main transmission to an auxiliary transmis- in the middle from its own weight. When turning at
sion is always referred to as a No. 1 driveline. See high rpm, it will flex, causing an out-of-balance vibra-
Fig. 2, example C. tion. Therefore, vehicles having a long wheelbase
1 2 3
A
1 2 5
B 4
6
1 8
7 2 5
C 4
6
1 2 3
D 10
9 11
1 2 3
E
10 10
9 12 11
09/14/95 f410069a
1. Main Transmission 5. No. 3 Driveline 9. Primary Coupling Shaft
2. No. 2 Driveline 6. Rearmost Axle 10. Midship Bearing
3. Rear Axle 7. No. 1 Driveline 11. No. 2 Driveshaft
4. Forward-Rear Axle 8. Auxiliary Transmission 12. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
8
4
6
5
4 13 14
3
1 7
2
12
4 3
11
10
9
3
6
4
7
15
10
9 12
3 16
05/01/95 f410068b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
1. Transmission 7. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke (half- 12. Axle Input-Shaft End-Yoke (half-
2. Transmission Output-Shaft End- round) round)
Yoke (half-round) 8. Intermediate Coupling Shaft 13. Forward-Rear Axle
3. U-Joint Assembly Tube 14. Axle Output-Shaft End-Yoke
4. Full-Round Tube-Yoke 9. Sleeve-Yoke (full-round) (half-round)
5. Primary Coupling Shaft Tube 10. Slip-Joint Assembly 15. No. 3 Driveshaft Tube
6. Midship Bearing Assembly 11. No. 2 Driveshaft Tube 16. Rearmost Axle
ing the bearing cups into the outsides of the yoke self-locking capscrews are installed into the yoke to
and over the ends of the trunnions. Snap rings or secure the cups. See Fig. 7.
3
2 3
1
4
6
5
4
3
2
05/02/95 1 f410072b 2
1. Bearing-Strap 4. U-Joint Cross
Capscrew 5. Half-Round Yoke 1
2. Bearing Strap 6. Yoke Cross-Hole Tab
3. Bearing Cup 08/11/95 f410154
U-Joint Angles, Phasing, and NOTE: Some driveshafts are designed and
phased with their end yokes clocked 90 degrees
Driveline Balance from each other. This is referred to as cross
Correct U-joint working angles, U-joint phasing, and phasing.
driveline balance are vital to maintaining a quiet- After manufacture, each driveline yoke is statically
running drivetrain and long life of drivetrain compo- balanced. After assembly, each driveshaft and cou-
nents (including driveline components).
1
2 4
3 3
5
11/28/94 f410073a
1. Transmission 4. Rear Axle
2. No. 2 Driveshaft 5. Extended Centerlines
3. U-Joint Working Angles
A
A
A
6
2 5
08/11/95 f410074b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. End-yoke cross-hole centerline is horizontal. C. Install a half-round bearing-cup retaining wire (or
B. Before uncoupling/coupling the U-joint, turn the end- safety wire) before removing the bearing straps.
yoke until its cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
2. Midship Bearing 5. Half-Round Bearing-Cup Retaining Wire
3. Intermediate Coupling Shaft 6. Retaining-Wire Groove
Fig. 1, U-Joint Uncoupling/Coupling for Drivelines With Half-Round End-Yokes, Except RPL U-Joints
NOTE: It is easier to check driveline parts, and or a tube-yoke. To remove the driveshaft, see
to replace a U-joint or midship bearing assembly Subject 120.
if the driveshaft is removed from the vehicle. If a NOTE: Many service operations do not require
driveshaft requires straightening or balancing, it driveshaft removal from the vehicle: end-yoke
must be removed, and installed on a lathe or a nut tightening; drive component shaft seal or
balance machine. Removal is required for re- end-yoke replacement; changing U-joint phasing
placement of slip-joint parts, a driveshaft tube, at the slip-yoke; and transmission or axle re-
3
1
A
2
10/21/98 f410180
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. End-yoke cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
B. Before uncoupling/coupling the U-joint, turn the end-
yoke until its cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 3. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
2. Midship Bearing 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
Fig. 2, U-Joint Uncoupling/Coupling for Drivelines With Half-Round End-Yokes, RPL U-Joints
moval (for overhaul, repair, or replacement). To 3. If the half-round bearing cups do not already
perform these operations, uncouple the U-joint have a retaining wire installed, install a bearing-
at the applicable end of the appropriate drive- cup retaining wire. See Fig. 1, Ref. C. Or, install
shaft. safety wire from the retaining-wire groove of one
half-round bearing cup to the other.
1. Roll the vehicle forward or backward as needed
to turn the rearmost end-yoke (of the driveline 4. Support the driveshaft with a nylon support strap.
that is being uncoupled) until the centerline When uncoupling a coupling shaft, install two or
through its cross-holes is horizontal. See Fig. 1, three support straps, as needed. Remove the
Ref. A and Ref. B. fasteners that attach the midship bearing(s) to its
2. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. bracket(s). See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
CAUTION
Do not expose the U-joint trunnions or bearing-
cup needles to dirt or grit. The smallest bits of
dirt or grit can cause rapid wear and serious A
damage to the U-joint.
1.2 Check the end-yoke cross-holes for burrs 2.1 Remove the bearing-cup retaining wire or
or raised metal. Using a half-round file, safety wire. See Fig. 1, Ref. C.
remove burrs or raised metal. See Fig. 3.
CAUTION
Do not expose the U-joint trunnions or bearing-
cup needles to dirt or grit. The smallest bits of
dirt or grit can cause rapid wear and serious
damage to the U-joint.
2.2 Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean
the outside surfaces of both bearing cups.
See Fig. 5.
A
11/28/94 f410075a
2
1
05/02/95 f410124a
3 1. Retaining Tab
A
11/28/94 f410078a WARNING
A. Lubricate seal lips here.
The self-locking capscrews must not be reused.
1. Bearing Cup 3. Bearing-Cup Seal Replace the capscrews with new ones. Also, do
2. Bearing Needle not undertighten or overtighten the capscrews. A
loose or broken fastener at any point in the drive-
Fig. 6, Sectional View of a Half-Round End-Yoke line weakens the driveline connection, which
U-Joint Bearing Cup could cause serious vehicle damage, or could
2.6 Install the bearing cups on the cross. result in a driveshaft separating from the vehicle.
Driveline separation can cause loss of vehicle
2.7 Install a bearing-cup retaining wire. See control that could result in serious personal in-
Fig. 1, Ref. C. Or, install safety wire from jury or death.
the retaining-wire groove of one half-round Separation of the driveline can also cause dam-
bearing cup to the other. age to the driveline, driveline components, or
3. Extend the slip-joint, while pressing the cross other areas of the vehicle.
and bearing cups into place in the yoke cross- 5. Alternately tighten the capscrews in increments
holes. Using a rubber or plastic mallet, gently tap of 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m) to the applicable torque
the bearing cups to seat them in the yoke. See value in Specifications 400.
Fig. 7.
6. If they were removed, install the fasteners that
CAUTION attach each midship bearing to its bracket;
tighten the flanged locknuts 68 lbf·ft (92 N·m).
Do not use the capscrews and bearing straps (if 7. Lubricate the U-joint, following the procedure in
equipped) to seat the bearing cups in the yoke. Group 41 of the Columbia Maintenance Manual.
Seating the cross by tightening the bearing
straps can deform the bearing straps, allowing 8. Remove the nylon support straps, then remove
the bearing cups to spin, which will cause rapid the chocks.
wear and serious damage to the U-joint.
4. Place the bearing straps (if equipped) over the
cups. Install the capscrews, finger-tight.
05/02/95 f410148
05/03/95 f410102b
05/03/95 f410143
05/03/95 f410103b
05/03/95 f410101b
11/29/94 f410108a
A. Use fine emery cloth on this surface.
B. Use a mill file on this surface.
1
Fig. 6, Smoothing a Full-Round Yoke U-Joint Bearing
Cup
11/29/94 f410113a
3
A
08/02/96 f410145a
R I T OR
ME
1 1
04/13/98 f410155a
1. Self-Locking Capscrew
2. Adhesive Band
NOTE: Many service operations do not require 2. Uncouple the No. 2 driveshaft from the transmis-
driveshaft removal from the vehicle: end-yoke sion or coupling shaft. If the No. 2 driveshaft is
nut tightening; drive component shaft seal or coupled to half-round end-yokes, follow the un-
end-yoke replacement; changing U-joint phasing coupling procedure in Subject 100. If the No. 2
at the slip-yoke; and transmission or axle re- driveshaft is coupled to full-round end-yokes, fol-
low the uncoupling procedure in Subject 110.
moval (for overhaul, repair, or replacement). To
perform these operations, uncouple the U-joint 3. Lift the No. 2 driveshaft out of the chassis.
at the applicable end of the appropriate drive-
shaft. See Subject 100 for uncoupling from a Intermediate Coupling Shaft
half-round end-yoke, or see Subject 110 for un-
coupling from a full-round end-yoke. Removal (See Fig. 5 and Fig. 6)
NOTE: It is easier to check driveline parts, and 1. If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
to replace a U-joint or midship bearing assembly remove it first.
if the driveshaft is removed from the vehicle. If a If the No. 2 driveshaft is not being removed, use
driveshaft requires straightening or balancing, it a nylon support strap to support its forward end.
must be removed, and installed on a lathe or 2. Uncouple the intermediate coupling shaft from
balance machine. Removal is required for re- the No. 2 driveshaft. If the intermediate coupling
placement of slip-joint parts, a driveshaft tube, shaft has a half-round end-yoke, follow the un-
or a tube-yoke. coupling procedure in Subject 100. If the inter-
mediate coupling shaft has a full-round end-yoke,
No. 3 Driveshaft Removal follow the uncoupling procedure in Subject 110.
(See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) 3. Uncouple the intermediate coupling shaft from
the primary coupling shaft. See Fig. 7 and
1. Uncouple the No. 3 driveshaft from the rearmost Fig. 8. If the primary coupling shaft has a half-
axle. If the No. 3 driveshaft is coupled to half- round end-yoke, follow the uncoupling procedure
round end-yokes, follow the uncoupling proce- in Subject 100. If the primary coupling shaft has
dure in Subject 100. If the No. 3 driveshaft is a full-round end-yoke, follow the uncoupling pro-
coupled to full-round end-yokes, follow the un- cedure in Subject 110.
coupling procedure in Subject 110. 4. Lift the intermediate coupling shaft out of the
2. Uncouple the No. 3 driveshaft from the forward- chassis.
rear axle. If the No. 3 driveshaft is coupled to
half-round end-yokes, follow the uncoupling pro- Primary Coupling Shaft
cedure in Subject 100. If the No. 3 driveshaft is
coupled to full-round end-yokes, follow the un- Removal (See Fig. 7 and Fig. 8)
coupling procedure in Subject 110.
1. For a vehicle with one coupling shaft:
3. Lift the No. 3 driveshaft out of the chassis.
If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
remove it first.
No. 2 Driveshaft Removal
If the No. 2 driveshaft is not being removed, use
(See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4) a nylon support strap to support its forward end.
1. Uncouple the No. 2 driveshaft from the single or For a vehicle with two coupling shafts:
forward-rear axle. If the No. 2 driveshaft is If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
coupled to half-round end-yokes, follow the un- remove it first; then, remove the intermediate
coupling procedure in Subject 100. If the No. 2 coupling shaft.
driveshaft is coupled to full-round end-yokes, fol-
low the uncoupling procedure in Subject 110.
B
5
2
D
4
C
3
A
B
1
05/04/95 f410096b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. No. 3 Driveshaft Coupled to Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 3 Driveshaft Coupled to Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Half-Round End- 4. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Full-Round End-
Yoke Yoke
2. No. 3 Driveshaft 5. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Full-Round End-yoke
3. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Half-Round End-yoke
If the intermediate coupling shaft is also being If only the primary coupling shaft is being re-
removed (but not the No. 2 driveshaft), remove moved, use nylon support straps to support the
the intermediate coupling shaft first. forward end of the No. 2 driveshaft and both
ends of the intermediate coupling shaft. Then,
B
3
A
1
10/21/98 f410181
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Half-Round End- 2. No. 3 Driveshaft
Yoke 3. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke
remove the fasteners that attach the intermediate that attach the primary coupling shaft midship
coupling shaft midship bearing to its bracket. See bearing to its bracket. See Fig. 7 and Fig. 8.
Fig. 7 and Fig. 8. 4. Uncouple the primary coupling shaft from the
2. If not already done, uncouple the primary cou- transmission. If the primary coupling shaft is
pling shaft from the No. 2 driveshaft or intermedi- coupled to a half-round end-yoke, follow the un-
ate coupling shaft. If the primary coupling shaft coupling procedure in Subject 100. If the primary
has a half-round end-yoke, follow the uncoupling coupling shaft is coupled to a full-round end-
procedure in Subject 100. If the primary coupling yoke, follow the uncoupling procedure in Sub-
shaft has a full-round end-yoke, follow the un- ject 110.
coupling procedure in Subject 110. 5. Lift the primary coupling shaft out of the chassis.
3. Using two nylon support straps, support the pri-
mary coupling shaft. Then remove the fasteners
B
5
7
3
B 4
D
6
C
B
1
2 A
05/05/95 f410080b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. No. 2 Driveshaft Coupled to Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveshaft Coupled to Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Transmission Output-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 5. Transmission Output-Shaft Full-Round End-Yoke
2. Coupling Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 6. Coupling Shaft Full-Round End-Yoke
3. No. 2 Driveshaft 7. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Full-
4. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Half- Round End-Yoke
Round End-Yoke
B
4
A
1
2
A
10/21/98 f410183
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Transmission Output-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 4. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Half-
2. Coupling Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke Round End-Yoke
3. No. 2 Driveshaft
7
6
C
7
4
7
D
5 6
B
1 2 3
3
4
B
3
C
A
5
2
1
05/04/95 f410084b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. No. 2 Driveline With Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveline With Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
2. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 6. No. 2 Driveshaft
3. Half-Round End-Yoke 7. Full-Round End-Yoke
4. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
3
6
3
B
4 5
2
1
10/21/98 f410184
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 4. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
2. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
3. Half-Round End-Yoke 6. No. 2 Driveshaft
C 5
7
6
2
7
3
D
B
4
4
1 5
B
6
1
3
2 A
08/29/96 f410086b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. No. 2 Driveline With Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveline With Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Half-Round End-Yoke 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
2. Primary Coupling Shaft 6. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
3. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 7. Full-Round End-Yoke
4. No. 2 Driveshaft
5
1
6
A
1
B
3
2
10/21/98 f410185
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Half-Round End-Yoke 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
2. Primary Coupling Shaft 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
3. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 6. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
so it can be coupled to the primary coupling ject 100. If the intermediate coupling shaft was
shaft end-yoke. coupled to a full-round end-yoke, follow the cou-
3. Couple the intermediate coupling shaft to the pri- pling procedure in Subject 110.
mary coupling shaft end-yoke. If the intermediate 4. If the No. 2 driveshaft was also removed, install
coupling shaft was coupled to a half-round end- it, as instructed in this subject.
yoke, follow the coupling procedure in Sub-
05/08/95 f410098b
A. Cross-hole centerlines of both yokes must be in
B
alignment.
U-Joint Removal
1
Full-Round Yokes
1. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle. See
Subject 120.
2. Place the driveshaft in V-blocks or a soft-jawed
vise; do not distort the tube with excessive grip.
3. Remove and discard all four bearing-plate self- 2
locking capscrews. See Fig. 1. 11/28/94 f410088a
1. Trunnions 2. Slingers
R I T OR
ME
1 1
04/13/98 f410155a
1. Self-Locking Capscrew
2. Adhesive Band
1
1
4 2
2
3
2 3
1
12/09/97 f410179
1. Snap Ring 4. Bearing Cup (RPL
2. Bearing Cup Joint)
05/15/98 f410187
3. Full Round Yoke
1. Press 3. Bearing Cup
Fig. 4, RPL U-Joint Components 2. Bridge Receiver
Slip-Joint Disassembly
Except RPL Drivelines
1. Check that the driveshaft yokes are aligned to
hold the U-joints at either end in phase, as
shown in Fig. 8. Using a marking stick or paint,
mark the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft with
05/15/2008
1 f410418 alignment marks, as shown in Fig. 9. This will
ensure proper alignment of the slip-joint compo-
1. Weld-Strap
nents when the driveshaft is assembled.
Fig. 5, Cutting the Weld-Strap IMPORTANT: Misaligned driveshaft yokes will
cause the U-joints to be out of phase, which will
cause vibration in the driveline.
2. With the driveshaft uncoupled at one end, or re-
moved from the vehicle, use a strap wrench to
unscrew the slip-joint dust cap from the sleeve-
yoke, then pull the sleeve-yoke off of the splined
shaft. Remove the dust cap, and (if so equipped)
the steel washer and cork seal. See Fig. 10.
05/04/98 f410419
RPL Drivelines
Fig. 6, Removing the Bearing Cups
1. Check that the driveshaft yokes are aligned to
5. Remove both bearing cups from the yoke cross- hold the U-joints at either end in phase, as
holes. See Fig. 7. Remove the cross from the shown in Fig. 8. Using a marking stick or paint,
yoke. mark the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft with
alignment marks, as shown in Fig. 9. This will
05/08/95 f410089b
7
6
5
4
3
C 2
1
05/21/2008 f410525
A. In Phase (parallel phased)
B. In Phase (cross phased)
C. Out of Phase 11/28/94 f410090a
1
12/09/97 f410191 2 A
1
2 B
05/08/95 f410146
A. Axle End-Yoke
B. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke
1. Yoke Puller 2. Bearing Strap
11/28/94 A f410099a
A. Use a marking stick or paint to mark the end-yoke
and coupling shaft with alignment marks.
1 1. Half-Round End- 2. End-Yoke Locknut
A
2 Yoke
1
05/08/95 B f410147
A. Axle End-Yoke
B. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke
1. Yoke Puller 2. Full-Round End-Yoke
3
11/28/94 2 f410100a
1. Midship Bearing 2. Slinger
Shaft 3. Midship Bearing
05/03/95 f410101b
05/03/95 f410103b
4. Smooth and clean the entire surface of all end- dry with compressed air. Check for minute par-
yoke cross-holes, using fine emery cloth. See ticles of dirt or grit, and clean again if necessary.
Fig. 5 for full-round yokes, or see Fig. 7 for half- 4. Check each bearing cup for missing bearing
round yokes. needles. Check the bearing-cup seals for nicks.
See Fig. 10 for a half-round-yoke U-joint bearing
cup, or see Fig. 11 for a full-round-yoke U-joint
bearing cup. Replace the U-joint assembly if any
bearing needles are missing or any seals are
damaged.
5. Apply a small quantity of multipurpose chassis
grease to the bearing needles in each cup, then
apply a small amount of light-weight oil to the
lips of the bearing-cup seals. Rotate each bear-
ing cup on the cross to check for wear. Replace
A the U-joint assembly if any bearing surfaces are
worn.
6. Check the underside of each bearing-cup plate
for burrs or raised metal. Use a mill file to re-
move any burrs or raised metal. See Fig. 12.
11/28/94 f410076a
7. Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean the
outside surfaces of all bearing cups. See Fig. 12
A. Use fine emery cloth on this surface. and Fig. 13.
Fig. 7, Smoothing a Half-Round End-Yoke Cross-Hole
1 2 3 4
11/28/94 5 f410107a
1. Spalling 3. Brinelling 5. Slinger
2. End Galling 4. Pitting
3
11/28/94 f410106a
A
Fig. 9, Forcing Out Old Lubricant From a U-Joint Cross
1 08/02/96 f410145a
11/28/94
A f410078a
11/29/94 f410108a
A. Use fine emery cloth on this surface.
B. Use a mill file on this surface.
11/28/94 f410077a
A
05/08/95 f410089b
Midship Bearing and Coupling the nut off slightly, and tighten it to the
same torque.
Shaft End-Yoke Replacement
or Assembly U-Joint Replacement or
IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines
Installation
must not be intermixed. Incorrectly assembled IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines
or worn components can affect the entire drive- must not be intermixed. Also, components of the
line, resulting in too much vibration or driveline various makes of U-joints may not be inter-
damage. changeable, and must be assembled only with
1. Place the coupling shaft in a soft-jawed vise; do compatible products. Incorrectly assembled or
not distort the tube with excessive grip. worn components can affect the entire driveline,
NOTE: Midship bearings are permanently lubri- resulting in too much vibration or driveline dam-
cated when manufactured; it is not necessary to age.
pack the bearing with grease. Worn bearing assemblies used with a new
2. Install the midship bearing on the coupling shaft. cross, or new bearing assemblies used with a
Press the bearing on by hand as far as it will go. worn cross will wear rapidly, making another
3. Install the end-yoke. See Fig. 6. replacement necessary in a short time. Always
replace the cross and all four bearing assem-
3.1 Apply Loctite® 242 to the shaft threads blies at the same time.
where the end-yoke locknut will be in-
stalled. If the slip-joint of a No. 2 or No. 3 driveshaft has
been disassembled, assemble the slip-joint before
3.2 Align the marks added to the coupling installing the U-joints.
shaft and end-yoke during removal, then
place the end-yoke on the shaft so the
yoke bores are aligned at both ends of the
Full Round Yokes
shaft. See Fig. 6. 1. Place the assembled driveshaft in V-blocks or a
soft-jawed vise; do not distort the tube with ex-
cessive grip.
1
2. For a No. 2 or No. 3 driveshaft, check that the
slip-joint alignment marks are aligned, so that the
U-joints at each end of the driveshaft will be in
2
phase. See Fig. 4 and Fig. 5.
For a coupling shaft, check that the end-yoke
and tube-yoke are aligned, so that the U-joints at
each end of the coupling shaft will be in phase.
11/28/94 A f410099a See Fig. 6.
A. Use a marking stick or paint to mark the end-yoke IMPORTANT: Misaligned driveshaft yokes will
and coupling shaft with alignment marks. cause the U-joints to be out of phase, which will
1. Half-Round End- 2. End-Yoke Locknut cause vibration in the driveline.
Yoke
3. Inspect and lubricate the U-joint; see Sub-
ject 140.
Fig. 6, Alignment Marks on a Coupling Shaft With an
4. Install the U-joint cross and bearing assemblies
End-Yoke
in the yoke.
3.3 Install the end-yoke nut, and tighten it 475 4.1 Position the U-joint cross in the driveshaft
to 525 lbf·ft (645 to 710 N·m). Then back yoke so one grease fitting points toward
the driveshaft, and aligns with the grease IMPORTANT: A Spicer trunnion (journal) lo-
fitting on the sleeve-yoke (if so equipped). cator should be used to prevent damage to
See Fig. 7. the U-joint trunnions and slingers.
4.3 By hand, press the bearing-cup-plate flush
with the face of the yoke. If the bearing
cup binds in the cross-hole, tap the center
of the bearing-cup plate with a leather or
A rubber mallet; do not tap the outer edges
of the plate. See Fig. 9.
11/29/94 f410112a
A. Install the cross with grease fitting pointing toward
the driveshaft, and aligned with the sleeve-yoke
grease fitting.
WARNING
Self-locking bearing-cup-plate capscrews must
not be reused; replace the capscrews with new
ones. Also, do not undertighten or overtighten
any bearing-cup-plate capscrews. A loose or bro-
ken fastener at any point in the driveline weakens
the driveline connection, which could cause seri-
ous vehicle damage, or could result in a drive-
shaft separating from the vehicle, possibly caus-
ing loss of vehicle control that could result in
1 serious personal injury or death.
4.5 Move the cross until it projects beyond the
11/29/94 f410113a machined surface of the opposite yoke
NOTE: Sleeve-yoke shown. lug. Using the above procedure, install the
1. Trunnion Locator opposite bearing assembly and its fasten-
ers.
Fig. 8, Use of a U-Joint Trunnion Locator
1 1
1
04/13/98 f410155a
1. Self-Locking Capscrew
2. Adhesive Band
1
05/15/98 f410426
1. U-Joint Cross
1
Fig. 15, Striking the Yoke Ear
Transmission/Axle End-Yoke
Replacement or Installation
05/06/98 f410423
IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines
must not be intermixed. Incorrectly assembled
1. U-Joint
or worn components can affect the entire drive-
Fig. 13, Installing the Snap Rings line, resulting in too much vibration or driveline
damage.
1. Apply Loctite® 242 to the input- or output-shaft
threads where the end-yoke locknut will be in-
stalled. See Fig. 16.
2. By hand, install the end-yoke on the input or out-
put shaft as far as it will go.
3. Install a new end-yoke locknut, and tighten it to
the applicable torque value in Specifica-
tions 400.
12/09/97 f410189
05/10/95 f410092b
Troubleshooting CAUTION
Noise or vibration associated with the driveline can Do not overtighten the bearing-cup-plate or
be caused by non-driveline parts. To find the cause bearing-strap capscrews. A loose or broken fas-
of noise or vibration, first road test the loaded ve- tener at any point in the driveline weakens the
hicle. Drive in all gears and at all speed ranges for driveline connection, which could result in seri-
which the vehicle was designed, including those at ous vehicle damage.
which problems are reported.
6. Check all U-joint assemblies, slip-joint splines,
NOTE: Operating a vehicle at speeds that ex- and midship bearings for wear.
ceed its drivetrain design specifications may 6.1 Try to move each driveshaft up and down,
cause an out-of-balance vibration. and from side to side. If movement is
The following is a troubleshooting elimination pro- greater than 0.006 in (0.15 mm) of a
cess; checks should be made in the order listed. At U-joint cross in its bearings, replace the
each step where a problem is found, correct the U-joint assembly.
problem before proceeding to the next step, then test 6.2 If the midship bearing rattles or is loose
drive the vehicle to see if other problems still exist. If on its shaft, replace it.
no other problems exist, the elimination process may
be ended at that step. 6.3 Try to bend the sleeve-yoke and splined
shaft up and down, and from side to side.
1. Check all tires for uneven wear and for out-of-
See Fig. 1. If looseness is greater than
roundness. Check for mismatched tires. Look for
0.007 in (0.18 mm), replace the sleeve-
wheels and rims that are out of alignment. For
yoke and splined shaft.
instructions, see Group 40.
2. Check the rear suspension for loose or broken If driveline components must be replaced,
U-bolts; broken, shifted, or mismatched rear see Subject 150.
springs; or broken spring seats. If so equipped,
check the air suspension for incorrect air spring
height. Look for anything that could cause angu-
lar misalignment of the rear axle pinion(s). For
instructions, see Group 32.
3. Check the frame rails and crossmembers for
bends, twists, or breaks; for frame-alignment-
checking and crossmember-replacement instruc-
tions, see Group 31.
4. Check the engine and transmission mounts; see
Group 01 (Engine) and Group 26 (transmis-
sion). Check the coupling shaft’s midship bearing 05/27/93 f410012a
mounts. Replace mountings that are deteriorated
Try to bend the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft up and
or oil-soaked; tighten loose mounting bolts. Oil-
down, and from side to side.
soaked or deteriorated mountings, or loose
mounting bolts, can cause driveline angular mis- Fig. 1, Check for Slip-Joint Spline Wear
alignment.
7. Check each driveshaft for an indication of miss-
5. Check for loose U-joint bearing-cup-plate and ing balance weights. If any weights appear to be
bearing-strap capscrews. Tighten any loose fas- missing, have the driveshaft balanced to a maxi-
tener to the applicable torque value in Specifica- mum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10 pounds
tions 400. weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
8. Check each driveshaft for dents, bends, twists,
or other damage.
A A
C D C
06/13/96 f410110b
A. Measurement: 3 inch (76 mm)
B. Measurement: 0.015 inch (0.38 mm) C
C. Measurement: 0.020 inch (0.51 mm)
D. Measurement: 0.025 inch (0.635 mm)
05/21/2008 f410525
Fig. 2, Runout Specifications for a Used Driveshaft
A. In Phase (parallel phased)
9. Check each driveline for proper U-joint phasing. B. In Phase (cross phased)
See Fig. 3. C. Out of Phase
install it by hand. Install the end-yoke nut, rocked on its shaft, or moved in or out on its
and tighten it 475 to 525 lbf·ft (645 to 710 shaft, replace the yoke and yoke nut. See Sub-
N·m). Slightly back off the nut, and again ject 150.
tighten it to the same torque. Couple the
coupling shaft to the driveshaft U-joint. If the yoke is not worn, tighten the yoke nut to its
torque value.
11. On single-drive vehicles:
1 Have the No. 2 driveshaft balanced to a maxi-
mum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10 pounds
weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
On dual-drive vehicles:
11.1 Remove the No. 3 driveline; then, with the
interaxle differential locked, test drive the
vehicle.
11.2 If vibration still exists, install the No. 3
driveline, then have the No. 2 driveshaft
2 balanced to a maximum tolerance of 1
05/01/95
3 f410121b inch-ounce per 10 pounds weight per end,
at 3000 rpm.
1. Midship Bearing 3. Bearing Strap
2. Yoke Puller If no vibration exists, check that both rear
axle gear ratios are matched. If the gear
Fig. 4, Remove a Half-Round End-Yoke from a ratios do not match, replace one of the
Coupling Shaft gear sets with a gear set having the cor-
rect ratio, then install the No. 3 driveline.
11.3 Have the No. 3 driveshaft balanced to a
maximum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per
10 pounds weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
2
11.4 Have the No. 2 driveshaft balanced to a
maximum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per
10 pounds weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
12. If so equipped, balance the coupling shaft(s) to a
maximum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10
pounds weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
3
1
05/08/95 f410014b
Special Tools
Journal Locator (for installing
u-joints in full-round yokes)
To order, contact your Dana Corporation Spicer Ser-
vice Representative.
1 2 A
3
04/25/95 f410045a
1
2 B
3 4 C 5
A
A B
07/24/95 f410031a
A. Parallel Centerlines B. Equal U-Joint Working Angles C. Intersecting Centerlines
1. Transmission 3. Forward-Rear Axle 5. Rearmost Axle
2. No. 2 Driveshaft 4. No. 3 Driveshaft
NOTE: Some driveshafts are designed and shaft is checked for out-of-roundness, and straight-
phased with their end yokes clocked 90 degrees ened as necessary; then each shaft is dynamically
from each other. This is referred to as cross balanced.
phasing. If the driveshaft slip-joint is disassembled for any rea-
son, the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft should be
marked for assembly alignment. Misaligned slip-joints
will seriously affect the U-joint phasing and balance
of the driveline. Even if the slip-joint is assembled
180 degrees from its original position (which will
keep the U-joints in phase), the dynamic balance of
the driveshaft will be negatively affected.
A driveline can become unbalanced or greatly weak-
A ened if a driveshaft has been dented, bent, twisted,
or otherwise damaged. Operating a vehicle at
speeds that exceed the speed of the driveshaft’s de-
sign specifications will cause an out-of-balance vibra-
tion. Loose end-yoke nuts, loose midship bearing or
auxiliary transmission mounts, loose bearing retainer
capscrews, worn U-joint trunnions or bearings, and
worn slip-joint splines can lead to excessive move-
ment of the driveshaft and cause driveline imbalance.
B
Midship Bearings
A long driveshaft, supported only at its ends, will sag
in the middle from its own weight. When turning at
high rpm, it will flex, causing an out-of-balance vibra-
tion. Therefore, most vehicles having a long wheel-
base use a midship bearing, mounted on a cross-
member in the frame, for additional driveline support.
C See Fig. 4. This allows the driveshaft to be sepa-
rated into two shorter shafts, thus improving balance
and stability.
05/21/2008 f410525
A. In Phase (parallel phased)
B. In Phase (cross phased)
Angularity Standards and
C. Out of Phase Drivetrain Configuration
Fig. 3, Driveline U-Joint Phasing The U-joints require a minimum working angle of 1/2
degree to ensure needle-roller movement in the
To ensure that the U-joints turn in phase, the sleeve- U-joint bearings. Without this movement, brinelling of
yoke and splined shaft of driveshaft slip-joints, and the trunnion bearing-contact surfaces would occur.
the coupling shaft and midship bearing end-yoke, Suspension movement causes driveshaft angles to
should be marked for assembly reference before dis- change (and therefore, needle-roller movement) in
assembly. both of the U-joints attached to driveshafts that con-
nect to the axles. However, no angle change occurs
Driveline Balance in the U-joints attached to a driveshaft that connects
the main transmission to a midship bearing or auxil-
After manufacture, each driveline yoke is statically iary transmission. Their working angles must be es-
balanced. After assembly of the slip-joint, each drive- tablished during installation.
1
2 3
4 5
A
B
A
C
05/08/95 f410054a
A. Parallel Centerlines C. Working Angles Unequal by 1/2
B. 1/2 to 1 Degree to 1 Degree
1. Main Transmission 3. Midship Bearing 5. Rear Axle
2. Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
When a midship bearing is included in the drivetrain, Every U-joint has a maximum working angle, deter-
it is installed so that the centerline of the coupling mined by the design and size of its cross assembly
shaft is in horizontal (side-to-side) alignment within and yokes. Exceeding the maximum working angle
1/2 degree, and within 1/2 to 1 degree of vertical can cause rapid U-joint wear, or in severe cases, de-
alignment, with the centerline of the main transmis- struction of the U-joint. For smooth operation and
sion output shaft. See Fig. 4. long drivetrain component life, the U-joint working
angles must be kept small and approximately equal
When an auxiliary transmission is included in the
for each shaft.
drivetrain, it is installed so that the centerline of the
inter-transmission (no. 1) driveline is in exact hori- The U-joint working angles may be made approxi-
zontal (side-to-side) alignment (within 1/2 degree), mately equal by either of two basic arrangements: a
and down 1/2 to 1 degree from vertical alignment, parallel arrangement (Fig. 1) or an intersecting ar-
with the centerline of the main transmission output rangement (Fig. 2). The parallel arrangement con-
shaft. Further, the auxiliary transmission thru-shaft sists of installing the drivetrain components so that
centerline must be parallel (horizontally and verti- all of the input, output, and thru-shaft centerlines are
cally) to the centerline of the main transmission out- approximately parallel. The intersecting arrangement
put shaft, in order to achieve equal working angles. (used only for some interaxle drivelines) consists of
See Fig. 5. installing the drive components so that the rearmost
1 3
2 4 5 C 7
6
B
A A A
07/24/95 f410052a
A. Parallel Centerlines B. 1/2 to 1 Degree C. Intersecting Centerlines
1. Main Transmission 4. No. 2 Driveshaft 6. No. 3 Driveshaft
2. No. 1 Driveline 5. Forward-Rear Axle 7. Rearmost Axle
3. Auxiliary Transmission
axle pinion shaft’s extended centerline intersects the shaft unsatisfactory. For those drivetrain configura-
forward-rear axle thru-shaft’s extended centerline ap- tions, it is necessary to use a modified parallel or
proximately midway between the U-joints, when all of modified-intersecting arrangement for the no. 3 drive-
the other shafts (including the forward-rear axle thru- shaft.
shaft) are approximately parallel.
On drivetrain configurations that require a modified
All single-drive vehicles, and the forward-rear axles parallel arrangement, the rearmost-axle pinion shaft
of dual-drive vehicles, use the parallel arrangement. centerline is placed at an angle that is 2 degrees
Rearmost axles of dual-drive vehicles may use the higher above horizontal than are the other input and
parallel arrangement or the intersecting arrangement, output shafts. See Fig. 7.
depending on the drivetrain configuration.
On drivetrain configurations that require a modified-
The specific drivetrain configuration of each Freight- intersecting arrangement, the "proper" intersecting
liner vehicle consists of its wheelbase, number and angle is determined, then the rearmost-axle pinion
type of axles, axle spacing, type of suspension, and shaft centerline is placed at an angle that is 2 de-
number of transmissions. The specific drivetrain con- grees closer to horizontal than the "proper" intersect-
figuration determines the driveline arrangement and ing angle. See Fig. 8.
required installation angles of all the vehicle’s driv-
The axle pinion angles for all suspensions are
etrain components.
factory-set for correct driveline angularity. On Freight-
The simplest drivetrain configuration consists of a liner spring suspensions, tapered axle planing shims
single short driveline connecting a main transmission at the springs maintain the correct axle pinion angle.
to a single-drive axle, in a parallel arrangement. This On Hendrickson suspensions, spacers at the torque
driveshaft is always referred to as the no. 2 drive- rods are used to maintain the correct axle pinion
shaft. The parallel arrangement always used on angles.
single-drive vehicles is shown in Fig. 1.
In the field, whenever axle or suspension compo-
On dual-drive vehicles that have both axle input nents are changed, the axle pinion angles may also
shafts of approximately the same height, a parallel change. If this occurs, contact your district service
arrangement is used. The driveshaft connecting the manager for the correct axle pinion angle adjustment
main (or auxiliary) transmission to the forward-rear procedure.
axle is always referred to as the no. 2 driveshaft; and
the interaxle driveshaft is always referred to as the
no. 3 driveshaft. See Fig. 6, which shows a parallel
arrangement when used on dual-drive vehicles.
Most dual-drive vehicles have a high thru-shaft on
the forward-rear axle, and a low pinion on the rear-
most axle. When the vehicle is on level ground, the
interaxle (no. 3) driveshaft may create very sharp
U-joint working angles with the input and output
shafts when they are parallel. In normal driving, the
U-joints could momentarily exceed their maximum
working angle, and driveline or drivetrain damage
could result. By using an intersecting arrangement at
the no. 3 driveshaft, smaller U-joint working angles
are created, promoting longer U-joint life and re-
duced driveline vibration. An intersecting arrange-
ment used on dual-drive vehicles is shown in Fig. 2.
However, some axle spacings, axle models, and sus-
pension designs allow additional axle movement or
axle windup that requires additional clearances be-
tween the driveshaft and the frame or suspension
components, or that creates other conditions that
make the intersecting arrangement of the no. 3 drive-
1
2 B
3 4
5
A
A
B A
09/14/95 f410053a
1
2 B
3 C
4 5
A
A D
07/24/95 f410056a
A. Parallel Centerlines C. Modified-Parallel Centerlines
B. Equal U-Joint Working Angles D. U-Joint Working Angles Not Equal by 2 Degrees
1. Transmission 3. Forward-Rear Axle 5. Rearmost Axle
2. No. 2 Driveshaft 4. No. 3 Driveshaft
1
2 B C 5
3 4
A
A D
07/24/95 f410055a
Use the procedure below for the type of tool being end-yoke being checked. For a full-round end-
used. The Digital Angle Analyzer is the recom- yoke, remove the bearing cup from the yoke lug.
mended tool. See Section 41.00 for full-round end-yoke bear-
ing cup removal.
Digital Angle Analyzer 5. Turn the end-yoke until the machined surface of
the yoke lug is horizontal. See Fig. 2.
Before checking the pinion angles or engine angle,
check that the engine and transmission mounts are
tight and in good condition. Loose or deteriorated
mounts will cause inaccurate readings. 1
IMPORTANT: When using a digital angle ana-
lyzer (DAA) or digital level, be sure to always
take readings from the same side of the vehicle. 2
Also, keep the same end of the DAA pointed
toward the front of the truck.
Using a DAA (Fig. 1), measure the engine angle, 10/15/2001 f410495
driveshaft angles, and pinion angles. Read all angles
NOTE: Full-round end-yoke is shown.
to the nearest one-tenth of a degree.
1. Digital Angle Analyzer
2. End-Yoke
3. Chock the tires and place the transmission in 10. Without changing the position of the end-yoke,
neutral. Release the parking brakes. turn the DAA until it is parallel to the frame cen-
terline. See Fig. 3. Record the measured angle
4. The transmission output-shaft, coupling-shaft, of the pinion.
and axle input- and output-yoke angles can be
measured at either the top or bottom lug of the
10/15/2001 f410487
05/08/95 f410035a
NOTE: Full-round end-yoke is shown.
1. Digital Angle Analyzer Fig. 4, Spirit Level Protractor
2. End-Yoke
3. Transmission level inclination of the frame, and add or subtract
that value from the measured values.
Fig. 3, Measuring Pinion Angles
3. Chock the tires and place the transmission in
11. For a full-round end-yoke, install the bearing cup. neutral. Release the parking brakes.
See Section 41.00 for full-round end-yoke bear- 4. The transmission output-shaft, coupling-shaft,
ing cup installation. and axle input- and output-yoke angles can be
measured at either the top or bottom lug of the
Spirit Level Protractor end-yoke being checked. For a full-round end-
yoke, remove the bearing cup from the yoke lug.
Before checking the pinion angles or engine angle, See Section 41.00 for full-round end-yoke bear-
check that the engine and transmission mounts are ing cup removal.
tight and in good condition. Loose or deteriorated 5. Turn the end-yoke until the machined surface of
mounts will cause inaccurate readings. the yoke lug is horizontal. See Fig. 5.
Using a digital angle meter, spirit level protractor (see NOTE: To turn the driveshaft, raise one side of
Fig. 4), or the head of a machinists’s protractor,
the rear (single-drive) or rearmost (dual-drive)
measure the engine angle, driveshaft angles, and
pinion angles. Read all angles to the nearest one- axle until the tires are off the ground. Place a
tenth of a degree (6 minutes). safety stand under the axle. With the transmis-
sion in neutral, and the interaxle differential (if
After adjustment of any driveline angle, check the equipped) unlocked, turn the tire to move the
angle again.
driveshaft.
To measure the engine angle (transmission output-
6. Adjust the protractor scale to read 0 degrees.
shaft angle) or axle pinion angles, do the following:
Position the protractor alongside the U-joint trun-
1. Inflate the vehicle tires to their normal operating nion, on the machined surface of the end-yoke,
pressure. and at a 90-degree angle to the frame centerline.
2. Park the unloaded vehicle on a level surface. Do See Fig. 2. Then turn the end-yoke until the
not try to level the vehicle frame by jacking the bubble in the level vial is exactly between the
front or rear axles. If the frame cannot be leveled two marks on the vial. Remove the jack stand
from front to rear, determine and record the off- and lower the rear axle to the ground.
05/08/95 f410037a
NOTE: Full-round end-yoke is shown.
A. Protractor held at right angle to vehicle frame centerline.
B. End view of end-yoke.
1. Machined Surface of Yoke Lug
2. End-Yoke
05/08/95 f410036a
NOTE: Full-round end-yoke is shown.
A. Protractor held parallel to vehicle frame centerline.
B. Side view of end-yoke.
Driveline Angle Checking The measured rear axle pinion angle must be
equal ±1 degree to the measured engine angle.
If the rear axle pinion angle does not meet the
If a vehicle is equipped with a Freightliner spring sus-
above specification, contact your district service
pension, the axle pinion angles are factory-set using
manager.
alignment shims at the rear springs. These shims
have notches on the thick end of the shim. Count the 4. On dual-drive installations, measure the forward-
number of notches in the thick end of each shim to rear-axle pinion angle (at the rear of the no. 2
make sure that the correct shim is used. Also, make driveline); for instructions, see Subject 100.
sure the thick end of the shim is positioned correctly.
See the applicable table in Specifications 400 for The measured forward-rear-axle pinion angle
shim identification and use. If the axle pinion angles must be equal ±1 degree to the measured en-
on these suspensions are incorrect, contact your dis- gine angle. If the forward-rear-axle pinion angle
trict service manager for the adjustment procedure. does not meet the above specification, contact
your district service manager.
If a vehicle is equipped with a Hendrickson suspen-
sion, spacers at the torque rods are used to maintain Measure the rearmost-axle pinion angle (at the
the correct axle pinion angles. If the measured axle rear of the no. 3 driveline); for instructions, see
pinion angles on these suspensions are not the Subject 100.
same as the angles listed in the applicable table in Compare the measured angle with that shown in
Specifications 400, contact your district service the applicable table in Specifications 400. The
manager for the adjustment procedure. measured rearmost-axle pinion angle must be
equal ±1 degree to the angle shown in the table.
NOTE: In any of the following steps, if an off- If the measured angle is incorrect, contact your
level inclination was added to or subtracted from district service manager.
the engine angle, the same figure must be
added to or subtracted from the coupling shaft
or axle pinion reading before comparing the
angles.
1. Check the engine angle at the transmission
output-shaft end-yoke. The engine angle must be
3 degrees ±1/2 degree. For instructions, see
Subject 100.
2. If the driveline includes a midship bearing, place
a protractor on top of the coupling shaft. Align
the protractor with the shaft centerline. See
Fig. 1. Read the scale to the nearest one-tenth
of a degree (6 minutes). The centerline of the
coupling shaft must be 1/2 degree out of vertical
alignment with the transmission output shaft. See
Fig. 2. Compare this reading with the measured
engine angle.
If needed, adjust the midship bearing mounting
to meet the above specification. Contact your
district service manager for midship bearing
mount adjusting procedures.
3. On single-drive installations, measure the rear
axle pinion angle at the back of the no. 2 drive-
line; for instructions, see Subject 100.
1 3
2 4
05/08/95 f410131a
1. Transmission 3. Protractor
2. Coupling Shaft 4. Midship Bearing
1
2 3
4 5
A B
C
05/08/95 f410005a
A. 1/2-Degree Minimum C. Working Angles Unequal by 1/2
B. Parallel Centerlines to 1 Degree
1. Transmission 3. Midship Bearing 5. Rear Axle
2. Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
Planing Angle Specifications D–402/–404 Axles): Adjust axle pinion angles to the
values in Table 4, ±1 degree. See Table 5 for shim
notch decoding.
Engine Angle (for All Single-Drive-Axle Suspensions):
Adjust to 5 degrees ±1/2 degree. Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With 52-
Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to the
Engine Angle (for All Dual-Drive-Axle Suspensions):
Adjust to 3-1/2 degrees ±1/2 degree. values in Table 6, ±1 degree.
Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With 54-
Single-Drive-Axle Suspensions (All): Adjust rear axle
pinion angle to 3 degrees ±1 degree. Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to the
values in Table 7, ±1 degree.
Dual-Drive-Axle—Freightliner AirLiner Suspensions
With Meritor RT–40/–44/–46 Axles: Adjust axle pinion Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With 56-
Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to the
angles to the values in Table 1, ±1 degree.
values in Table 8, ±1 degree.
Dual-Drive-Axle—Freightliner AirLiner Suspensions
With Eaton D–402 Axles: Adjust axle pinion angles to Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With 60-
Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to the
the values in Table 2, ±1 degree.
values in Table 9, ±1 degree.
Dual-Drive-Axle—Freightliner AirLiner Suspensions
Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With
With Eaton D–404 Axles: Adjust axle pinion angles to
the values in Table 3, ±1 degree. 72.5-Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to
the values in Table 10, ±1 degree.
Dual-Drive-Axle—Freightliner Spring Suspensions
(with Meritor RT–40/–44/–46 Axles, or Eaton
Freightliner Spring Suspensions (with Meritor RT–40/–44/–46 Axles, or Eaton D–402/–404 Axles)
Forward-Rear Axle Rearmost Axle
Axle Pinion Spring Shim Orientation Number Pinion Spring Shim Orientation Number
Model Angle Seat Angle of Shim’s of Shim Angle Seat Angle of Shim’s of Shim
(degrees) Spacer (degrees) Thick End Notches (degrees) Spacer (degrees) Thick End Notches
* †
Freightliner Spring Suspensions (with Meritor RT–40/–44/–46 Axles, or Eaton D–402/–404 Axles)
Forward-Rear Axle Rearmost Axle
Axle Pinion Spring Shim Orientation Number Pinion Spring Shim Orientation Number
Model Angle Seat Angle of Shim’s of Shim Angle Seat Angle of Shim’s of Shim
(degrees) Spacer (degrees) Thick End Notches (degrees) Spacer (degrees) Thick End Notches
* †
Table 4, Freightliner Spring Suspensions (with Meritor RT-40/-44/-46 Axles, or Eaton D-402/-404 Axles)
07/19/2006 f320426
1 1
1 1
05/02/2001 f422186a
1. Tone Wheel and Sensor 3. Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
2. Front Modulator Valve Assembly 4. Rear Modulator Valve Assembly
1 4 FASTEN SEATBELTS
0000432 MILES
1 2
04/02/96 f601125
1. ABS Warning Light 2. ATC Indicator Light
tive and compressed air flows freely through the phragm seats the diaphragm, which closes the
modulator valves to the brake chambers. passage between the exhaust port and the
delivery port.
Each ABS-monitored wheel has its own modulator
valve. The front and rear modulator valve assemblies • When the brake pedal is released, air pressure
are mounted on a crossmember near the brake at the supply port decreases and the higher
chambers. See Fig. 1. The assembly includes two pressure in the brake chamber reverses the
modulator valves, one mounted on each side of a flow of air in the modulator valve. Air now
service relay valve. If the vehicle has an ATC sys- flows from the delivery port to the supply port
tem, the ATC valve is mounted on the control port of until the pressure is balanced. This releases
the service relay valve. the supply diaphragm and closes the passage
between the two ports.
Vehicles with tandem rear axles and a 4S/4M ABS
share modulator valves. One wheel is sensed but the • The reduced pressure unseats the exhaust
modulator valve controls both wheels on a side. diaphragm and air is vented through the ex-
haust port to the atmosphere.
Each modulator valve assembly includes two sole-
noid control valves (one supply and one exhaust)
4
and two diaphragms. See Fig. 5.
• The supply diaphragm opens and closes an air 5
passage between the supply port and delivery
3
port. It is controlled by the supply solenoid 6
valve.
A
2
• The exhaust diaphragm opens and closes an
air passage between the exhaust port and the
delivery port. It is controlled by the exhaust
solenoid valve.
The ECU energizes different combinations of these
7
solenoid valves to perform four functions: normal
braking (without ABS control), ABS brake release 1
(exhaust), ABS brake hold, and normal brake reap-
ply. 8
7
1 1
9
02/27/2004 f422055 3
NOTE: The supply valve is open; the exhaust valve is
closed.
1. Exhaust Valve (closed)
2. Supply Valve (open) 2
3. Supply Port
4. Supply Pilot Chamber
5. Supply Diaphragm (seated)
6. Delivery Port
7. Exhaust Diaphragm (seated) 1
05/15/2000 f430144a
8. Exhaust Port
1. ATC Valve
Fig. 7, Modulator Valve, Brake Hold Control 2. Rear Modulator Valve Assembly
3. Service Relay Valve
NOTE: The driver always controls the maximum
Fig. 8, ATC Valve
amount of pressure applied to the brakes. Pres-
sure to the brake chamber can never be more If a wheel spin from one side of the vehicle is de-
than the driver applies with the foot pedal. The tected, the ECU signals the ATC valve to open. This
ABS can override the pedal pressure to provide allows compressed air to enter the service relay
less brake pressure but not more. valve and the normal ABS control system determines
which brake to apply.
Automatic Traction Control An ATC function switch on the dash allows the driver
If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic Traction to select from two levels of drive-axle traction control
Control (ATC), the ABS/ATC system automatically (see Fig. 9):
reduces wheel spin during low-traction startup or • In the default position, the ATC reduces drive-
acceleration. axle wheel spin on icy, wet, or sand-covered
If a drive wheel starts to spin faster than the steer- roads.
axle wheels, the ATC system applies air pressure to • Pressing the NORM/SPIN switch increases the
brake that drive wheel. This transfers engine torque available traction on extra soft surfaces like
to the wheel or wheels that have better traction (dif- snow, mud, or gravel by slightly increasing the
ferential braking). If two or more drive wheels spin, permissible wheel spin. The greater wheel spin
may also be used to help burn through a thin The ATC indicator light also receives power when-
layer of ice. ever the ignition switch is on. If the drive-axle wheels
spin, the ATC indicator light turns on.
On vehicles equipped with Automatic Traction Con-
trol, if the NORM/SPIN switch ( Fig. 9) is activated,
the ABS ECU allows more wheel spin than normal
and the ATC indicator blinks continuously until the
switch is deactivated.
If the ATC wheel-spin indicator light stays on during
normal vehicle operation, there is a malfunction in
the ATC system.
Tire Size
For proper ABS/ATC operation with the standard
03/20/97 f601339
ECU, the front and rear tire sizes must be within 14
NOTE: This is a momentary rocker switch, shown in the percent of each other. When the tire-size range is
ATC (default) position. exceeded, system performance can be affected and
Fig. 9, ATC Switch for Soft Surfaces the warning lamp may come on.
The ATC function turns on and off automatically; driv- Call Meritor WABCO at 1-800-535-5560 if you plan a
ers do not have to select this feature. If a drive wheel tire-size difference greater than 14 percent.
spins during startup or acceleration, the ATC indica- Calculate the percentage difference of the tire sizes
tor lamp comes on, indicating the ATC is active. It with the following equation:
goes out when the drive wheel stops spinning.
Percentage Difference = {(steer-axle tire RPM ÷
The NORM/SPIN mode overrides the ATC function. It drive-axle tire RPM) – 1} x 100, where RPM equals
must be manually selected by pressing the NORM/ tire revolutions per mile.
SPIN spring-loaded switch briefly after the vehicle is
started. The ECU indicates the activation by a con-
stant flashing of the WHEEL SPIN lamp. This mode
is disengaged by pressing NORM/SPIN on the switch
again or turning the ignition switch off.
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
• Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock
the tires before working under the vehicle. Re-
leasing air from the system can cause the ve-
hicle to roll.
• Keep hands away from brake chamber push
rods and slack adjusters; they will apply as the
air pressure drops.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes.
• Never remove a component or pipe plug un-
less you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
• Never exceed the recommended air pressure.
• Always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them toward anyone.
• Never attempt to disassemble a component
until you have read and understood the recom-
mended procedures. Some components con-
tain powerful springs and injury can result if
they are not correctly disassembled. Use only
the correct tools and observe all precautions
regarding use of those tools.
Fig. 1, Front Wheel Speed Sensor Removal 11. Attach the hose clamp and sensor cable to the
axle tube located between the backing plate and
3. Remove the sensor cable from the steering the spring plate.
knuckle top cap. 12. Press the clamping bushing into the mounting
4. Disconnect the sensor cable from the chassis block until it stops.
harness. 13. Coat the sensor with Mobil HP, Valvoline EP633,
Pennzoil 707L, or an equivalent. Using your
Adjustment
A
NOTE: The following adjustment procedure re-
quires the use of special tool T11-17556-000.
Use of this tool, available through the PDCs,
eliminates the time-consuming task of removing
the wheel and tire assembly, and the brake
drum. See Fig. 1.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- B
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
front tires.
01/19/95 f421323
Disassembly 1
Installation
IMPORTANT: Some ABS service hubs do not
have a tone (tooth) ring installed on the hub.
The tone ring must be ordered separately and A
installed on the hub before installation of the 1
hub onto the axle. Tone rings are made of a
special material and require a specific installa-
tion procedure for proper installation. 2
WARNING
When installing an ABS system, special ABS 12/23/97 f421664
hubs must be ordered. Machining older hubs to A. Use pliers to apply the ring.
accommodate the installation of tone rings can 1. Tone Ring 2. Hub
cause problems due to insufficient hub bore wall
thickness. Machining an older hub with insuffi- Fig. 1, Install the Ring on the Hub
cient hub bore wall thickness could result in
cracking, causing bearing damage and wheel A
loss. This could cause an accident resulting in
personal injury and property damage.
1
1. Submerge the tone ring in boiling water or place
it in an oven at 250°F (121°C) for approximately
2
15 minutes.
CAUTION
Do not attempt to heat the tone ring with a torch 12/23/97 f421665
as this can damage the ring. A. Use a rubber mallet.
2. Using pliers, remove the tone ring from the boil- 1. Tone Ring 2. Hub
ing water or oven and center it on the machined Fig. 2, Tap the Tone Ring
area of the hub bore. See Fig. 1.
3. While the tone ring is still hot, make sure it is
properly centered on the machined surface. Us- 1
ing a rubber mallet, tap the tone ring until it bot- 2
toms out around the machined surface on the 3
hub. See Fig. 2.
4. Install the hub on the axle. Place a dial indicator
with a magnetic base so the dial indicator is
against the tone-ring teeth. See Fig. 3.
5. Rotate the hub and check the ring for runout.
The runout should be less than 0.005 inch (0.13
mm). See Fig. 4. 02/27/98 f421666
6. Install the wheel. For instructions, see Group 40. 1. Hub 3. Dial Indicator
2. Tone Ring
1
02/27/98 3 f421667
A. Rotate the hub.
1. Tone Ring 3. Axle
2. Dial Indicator
WARNING
Do not test a vehicle equipped with Automatic
Traction Control (ATC) on a dynamometer unless
the ATC system is disabled. Activation of the ATC
on a dynamometer will cause unequal drive-
wheel torque that can result in loss of vehicle
control and personal injury or death.
Vehicles with ATC must have the ATC disabled be-
fore testing the vehicle on a dynamometer. Use one
of the following methods to disable the ATC:
• Use the Meritor PC Diagnostics or the Pro-Link
electronic diagnostic tool to disable the ATC.
• Press and hold the blink code switch for a
least three seconds. Once the system identifi-
cation code begins, the ATC system has been
disabled. See Table 1 for system ID codes.
• Removing the ABS circuit breaker or fuse, or
removing the ECU power connector will dis-
able both the ABS and ATC.
The ATC light on the dash comes on and stays on
when the ATC is disabled.
4 11 2
Before testing a wheel speed sensor, modulator
valve, or ATC valve, make sure the supply voltage to 10 3
the antilock braking system (ABS) electronic control 2
9 4
unit (ECU) is sufficient (see "ECU Supply Voltage
Test") and check for leaks in the ABS pneumatic sys- 8 5
tem. 1
7 6
The sensor and valve resistance tests are given in
two steps. First, disconnect the applicable cable from
09/07/99 f542947
the ECU and measure the resistance across the ter-
minals in the cable connector. If the resistance is A. Frame-mounted ECU.
within the specified range, both the cable and the B. ECU connector pin locations.
sensor or valve are good. 1. X1 Connector (gray)
2. X2 Connector (black)
Next, if the resistance reading is not acceptable, dis- 3. X3 Connector (green)
connect the cable from the sensor or valve and mea- 4. X4 Connector (brown—6S/4M, 6S/6M only)
sure the resistance across the sensor or valve termi-
nals. This two-step procedure quickly determines Fig. 1, Frame-Mounted ECU and Pin Locations
whether the problem is in the cable or the compo-
nent. ECU Supply Voltage Test
NOTE: The valve circuits and wheel sensors Use Meritor WABCO PC Diagnostics system to
can be tested by Meritor PC diagnostics. If PC check the supply voltage to the ABS ECU. If the PC
diagnostics indicate a problem, test the indi- Diagnostics is not available, use the following proce-
vidual component to determine whether the dure to check the voltage.
component or the wiring has failed. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
ing brake, shut down the engine, and chock the
Wire Numbers and Connector rear tires.
6. Turn the ignition switch off. 3. Connect ohmmeter probes to the sensor connec-
tor terminals and read the resistance.
7. If the voltage at the ECU is not within the speci-
fied range, check the battery voltage and test the • If the resistance is 900 to 2000 ohms, the
wiring to the ECU and to ground. cable and the sensor circuit are good. Pro-
ceed to the "Wheel Speed Sensor Voltage"
8. Connect the X1 connector to the ECU and re- test.
move the chocks from the tires.
• If the resistance is less than 900 ohms or
greater than 2000 ohms, perform the next
ABS Pneumatic System Test test, "Wheel Speed Sensor Resistance."
To check for air leaks in the ABS pneumatic system, Wheel Speed Sensor Resistance
listen for the sound of escaping air at each valve. To
confirm a slow air leak, apply a soap-and-water solu- To check the resistance in a wheel speed sensor,
tion to air line fittings and watch for bubbles. perform the following test:
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
Wheel Speed Sensor Tests ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
rear tires.
Wheel Speed Sensor and Circuit 2. Disconnect the wheel sensor cable from the
Resistance chassis harness.
To check the resistance in a wheel speed sensor cir- 3. Connect ohmmeter probes to the pins on the
cuit, perform the following test: sensor and read the resistance.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- • If the resistance reading is 900 to 2000
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the ohms but the resistance noted in the previ-
rear tires. ous test, "Wheel Speed Sensor and Cable
Resistance" was not, repair or replace the
2. Disconnect the sensor cable connector from the chassis harness wiring.
ABS ECU. See Table 1.
To check the voltage output of a wheel speed sen- 2. Turn the ignition switch on.
sor: 3. When the ABS warning light comes on, listen for
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park- the modulator valves to cycle one by one, then
ing brake, and shut down the engine. together diagonally. See Fig. 2.
2. Chock the tires of the axle not being tested. • 4-Channel valve cycle: 1, 2, 3, 4; then 1
Raise the vehicle and put jack stands under the and 2 together followed by 3 and 4.
axle so the wheels can rotate. • 6-Channel valve cycle: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6;
then 1, 2, and 3 together followed by 4, 5,
3. Disconnect the applicable connector from the
and 6.
ABS ECU for the sensor being tested. See
Table 1. 4. If the valves do not all cycle correctly, turn the
ignition off and check the connectors for tight-
4. Set a digital multimeter to the AC voltmeter
ness. Repeat the self-test.
mode. Connect the probes to the cable connec-
tor terminals for the sensor being tested. 5. If the valves still do not cycle correctly, start the
engine and check the air line connections to the
5. Rotate the wheel by hand at a speed of 30 rpm
valves for leaks. Shut down the engine and
(one-half revolution per second) and read the
tighten the air line fittings. Repeat the self-test.
voltage output. The wheel speed sensor must
generate a minimum of 0.2 volt AC. 6. If the valves still do not cycle correctly, check for
• If the voltage is at least 0.2 volt AC, skip to fault codes. Perform the next test, "Modulator
the next step. Valve and Cable Resistance."
• If the voltage reading is less than 0.2 volt Modulator Valve and Cable
AC, push the sensor in its holder until the
sensor touches the tooth wheel. See Sub-
Resistance
ject 120 for instructions. Repeat the volt- To check the resistance in a modulator valve and
age test. cable circuit, perform the following test:
• If the sensor output is still less than 0.2 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
volt AC, replace the sensor. ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
6. Install the connector on the ECU. Remove the rear tires.
jack stands, lower the vehicle, and remove the 2. Disconnect the modulator valve connector from
chocks from the tires. the ABS ECU. See Table 1.
2 4
B
04/09/97 f421562
NOTE: During the self-test, the valves cycle one by one 1
in order (1–2–3–4), then in pairs diagonally (1/2 and 2
3/4). A 4-channel valve cycle is shown.
3
A. Cab B. Curbside
1. Right Front Modulator Valve 08/30/99 f430143
2. Left Rear Modulator Valve
3. Left Front Modulator Valve A. Delivery Port B. Supply Port
4. Right Rear Modulator Valve 1. Ground (Common)
2. Exhaust Solenoid (Out)
Fig. 2, Modulator Valve Self-Test Sequence 3. Supply Solenoid (In)
3. Connect ohmmeter probes to the cable connec- Fig. 3, Modulator Valve Terminals
tor pins for the modulator valve "In" solenoid and
"Ground." Read the resistance. Then, move the 4. The resistance in each solenoid coil must be 4 to
probes to the "Out" and "Ground" pins and read 8 ohms.
the resistance. • If the resistance in each solenoid coil is 4
4. The resistance in each solenoid coil and cable to 8 ohms but the resistance noted in the
circuit must be 4 to 8 ohms. previous test, "Modulator Valve and Cable
Resistance" was not, repair or replace the
• If the resistance in each solenoid circuit is chassis harness.
4 to 8 ohms, the cable and modulator
valve are good. Install the connector on • If the resistance is less than 4 ohms or
the ECU and remove the chocks from the greater than 8 ohms, clean the terminals
tires. on the modulator valve and check the re-
sistance again.
• If the resistance in either solenoid circuit is
less than 4 ohms or greater than 8 ohms, • If the resistance is still not correct, replace
go to the next test, "Modulator Valve Re- the valve. See Subject 130 for instruc-
sistance." tions.
5. Install the cable connectors and remove the
Modulator Valve Resistance chocks from the tires.
To check the resistance in the solenoid coils in an
ABS modulator valve, perform the following test:
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the
rear tires.
The J1587 fault codes are eight-digit numbers. J1587 Fault Code Cross-Reference
• The first three digits refer to the message iden- Troubleshooting
tifier (MID) that indicates the ECU reporting the MID-SID Description
Table
fault. The MID is 136 for the ABS/ATC ECU.
136-253 Configuration Errors Table 23
• The next three digits (preceded by a lower- 136-254 Miscellaneous Faults Table 24
case "s") represents the subsystem identifier
* Tag axle; 6S/4M and 6S/6M only.
(SID), which indicates the component at fault.
Table 1, J1587 Fault Code Cross-Reference
• The last two digits, the Failure Mode Identifier
(FMI), represent the specific problem with the
component. Active faults cannot be cleared until they are re-
paired. A wheel sensor fault that has been repaired
The tables provided in "Troubleshooting Tables" all will not be cleared from memory until the vehicle has
have an MID code of 136. Each table lists all the FMI been driven at least 4 mph (6 km/h) to calibrate the
codes for a specific component (SID). See Table 1 system.
for a list of the first six digits of the fault codes with
their corresponding components and troubleshooting To erase all the stored fault codes from the ECU
table references. memory, refer to the ServiceLink manual. Make sure
to make a note of all the stored fault codes before
clearing them. Stored faults cannot be cleared if ac-
J1587 Fault Code Cross-Reference
tive faults exist.
Troubleshooting
MID-SID Description
Table
Using the Instrumention Panel
Wheel Sensor
Blink Codes
136-001 Left Front Table 4
136-002 Right Front Table 5
NOTE: If troubleshooting the system with the
Pro-Link 9000, use the instruction booklet that is
136-003 Left Rear Table 6 supplied with the WABCO D-Version ABS car-
136-004 Right Rear Table 7 tridge.
136-005 Left Third Axle * Table 8 Use the ABS CHECK switch and the ABS warning
136-006 Right Third Axle * Table 9 light to:
Modulator Valve • Display any active or stored faults (press the
136-007 Left Front Table 10 ABS CHECK switch 1 second for the Diagnos-
tic mode).
136-008 Right Front Table 11
• Erase stored faults from the ECU memory or
136-009 Left Rear Table 12 display the system identification code (press
136-010 Right Rear Table 13 the ABS CHECK switch 3 seconds for the
136-013 Retarder Table 14 Clear All mode).
136-014 Ground, Diagonal 1 Table 15 NOTE: For simplicity, the ABS warning light will
be referred to as the ABS light in this procedure.
136-015 Ground, Diagonal 2 Table 16
The warning light(s) on your vehicle may indi-
136-018 ATC Valve (if equipped) Table 17 cate TRACTOR ABS (and TRAILER ABS, if
136-019 Not Used Table 18 equipped).
136-023 ABS Warning Lamp Table 19
Displaying Fault Codes
136-231
J1939 Datalink Table 20 Fault codes are displayed as follows:
136-248
• With the ignition switch on, press the ABS
136-249 J1922 Datalink Table 21
CHECK switch for about 1 second (Diagnostic
136-251 Voltage Diagonal 1 or 2 Table 22
1−1/2 4 1−1/2 4
1 sec
+ sec
+ + sec
+ sec
+ + sec
A B B B
05/18/2000 f151013
NOTE: An active fault code repeats until the ignition switch is turned off.
A. Press the ABS CHECK switch 1 second. The ABS light goes out during a 1-1/2 second pause.
B. Blink code 2–3: two blinks, a 1-1/2 second pause, three blinks, and a 4-second pause.
1−1/2 4 1−1/2 4
1 sec
+ sec
+ + sec
+ sec
+ + sec
A B C D
05/18/2000 f151014
NOTE: The last fault stored is displayed first; each stored fault is displayed only once.
A. Press the ABS CHECK switch 1 second. The ABS light goes out during a 1-1/2 second pause.
B. The newest stored fault is displayed (blink code 2–3 is shown).
C. The second newest stored fault is displayed if one exists (blink code 3–2 is shown).
D. The third newest stored fault is displayed if one exists.
+ 1−1/2
+ Blink Trouble-
1 sec sec Description
Code shooting
A B 3-6 Left Third Axle (6S/4M only) Table 8
05/18/2000 f151012
Sensor Short or Open Circuit
A. Press the ABS CHECK switch 1 second. The ABS
light goes out during a 1-1/2 second pause. 4-1 Right Front Table 5
B. Blink code 1–1: one blink, a 1-1/2 second pause, 4-2 Left Front Table 4
and 1 blink.
4-3 Right Rear Table 7
Fig. 3, No Faults, System OK 4-4 Left Rear Table 6
codes are recorded before they are erased because 4-5 Right Third Axle (6S/4M only) Table 9
they should be repaired as soon as possible. 4-6 Left Third Axle (6S/4M only) Table 8
Sensor Erratic Signal
Blink Code Cross-Reference
5-1 Right Front Table 5
Blink Trouble-
Description 5-2 Left Front Table 4
Code shooting
1 No Faults — 5-3 Right Rear Table 7
2-1 Right Front Table 1 5-5 Right Third Axle (6S/4M only) Table 9
2-2 Left Front Table 1 5-6 Left Third Axle (6S/4M only) Table 8
3-1 Right Front Table 5 6-5 Right Third Axle (6S/4M only) Table 9
3-2 Left Front Table 4 6-6 Left Third Axle (6S/4M only) Table 8
Blink Code Cross-Reference If there are active faults, only the system identifica-
tion code will be displayed. See Fig. 5.
Blink Trouble-
Description The system identification code indicates the number
Code shooting
of ABS wheel speed sensors (S) and modulator
Table 24
valves (M) installed on the vehicle. See Table 3 for a
7-2 ATC Valve Table 17 list of system identification codes.
7-3 Retarder Relay † (third brake) Table 14 If a fault cannot be repaired or erased from ECU
7-4 ABS Warning Light Table 19 memory, contact your Meritor district service man-
7-5 ATC Configuration Table 23
ager or call Meritor WABCO at 1-800-535-5560.
7-6 Not Used Table 18 System Identification Blink Codes
ECU Sensors/ Vehicle Wheel
Blink Code
8-1 Low Power Supply Table 15 Modulators Positions
Table 16 1 Blink 6S/6M 6x2
8-2 High Power Supply Table 22 2 Blinks 4S/4M 4x4
8-3 Internal Fault Table 15 4 Blinks 6S/4M 6x4
Table 16 5 Blinks 6S/6M 6x4
Table 20 Table 3, System Identification Blink Codes
Table 24
8-4 System Configuration Table 23 Troubleshooting Tables
Table 24
8-5 Ground —
* Reconfigure the ECU if fault messages appear for components not in-
stalled on the vehicle.
† The ECU detects only fault code 136 S013 03, indicating the retarder
relay is shorted to power. See "Troubleshooting Tables," Table 1. If the re-
tarder relay circuit is open or if it is shorted to ground, the system will not
indicate a fault.
Table 2, Blink Code Cross-Reference
4 4 4
3 sec
+ sec
+ sec
+ sec
A B C C C
05/18/2000 f151015
A. Press the ABS CHECK switch 3 seconds. The ABS light goes out during a 1-1/2 second pause.
B. Eight quick blinks followed by a 4-second pause. (Faults cleared.)
C. The system ID code followed by a 4-second pause repeats until the ignition switch is turned off. (The system ID code
for a 4 x 4 vehicle is two quick blinks.)
4 4 4
3 sec
+ sec
+ sec
+ sec
A B B B B
05/18/2000 f151016
A. Press the ABS CHECK switch 3 seconds. The ABS light goes out during a 1-1/2 second pause.
B. The system ID code followed by a 4-second pause repeats until the ignition switch is turned off.
Wiring Diagrams
The following figures illustrate detailed system wiring
diagrams and harness wiring diagrams.
See Fig. 1, Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 for ABS system wiring
with J1922.
See Fig. 4, Fig. 5, and Fig. 6 for ABS system wiring
with J1939.
See Fig. 7 and Fig. 8 for modulator valve wiring
See Fig. 9 for exhaust brake interrupt relay wiring.
See Fig. 10 for ATC switch harness wiring.
See Fig. 11 for ABS relay to engine brake wiring.
See Fig. 12 for ABS harness at B-pillar wiring.
See Fig. 13 for ABS diagnostic switch wiring.
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 3
Fig. 3
Fig. 2
Fig. 2
Fig. 2
Fig. 8 Fig. 9
06/18/2001 f543738
Fig. 9
Fig. 9
Fig. 8
Fig. 8
06/15/2001 f422236
E
D
C
B F
A
09/15/2000 f422180
A. Circuit 376S F. Circuit 29A
B. Splicepack G. Splicepack
C. Ground Circuit H. ATC Switch Connect
D. Harness J. Circuits 376S and 376T
E. Main Cab Harness K. Main Cab Harness Plug for ABS
A B
C
D
E
G
H
06/25/2001 f422182
A. To J1939 Distribution Area
B. Main Cab Harness
C. ABS Harness
D. To Main Cab Harness Circuits 376C, GND
E. Engine Retarder Circuit 376R
F. To Diagnostic Connector Circuits 1587+, 1587-
G. To Main Cab Harness Circuits 376C, 376L, 376T
H. To Chassis Harness
4
5
6
A B
• a camshaft-and-chamber bracket When the brakes are released and air is exhausted
from the brake chamber, the actuator return spring
• two brake shoe and lining assemblies (within the brake chamber) and the brake shoe return
• two retaining springs spring return the camshaft, brake shoes, slack ad-
juster, and pushrod to their released positions.
• a return spring
• two anchor pins
The S-head camshaft transfers braking force from
the slack adjuster to the brake shoe assemblies. The
camshaft passes through the brake spider and
camshaft-and-chamber bracket before connecting to
the slack adjuster. See Fig. 1.
Each brake shoe is mounted on an anchor pin on the
brake spider and is controlled (moved) by either the
outward braking force of the S-head camshaft or the
inward restoring force of the return spring.
The heavy-duty, double-web brake shoes have
notches on one end of the webs that fit on the an-
chor pins. Two retaining springs secure the brake
shoes to each other near the anchor pins, creating a
hinge for brake-shoe movement. This design makes
quick-change brake service possible.
Meritor steer axles have seven 0.656-inch-diameter
holes for attaching the spider to the axle flange. An
oversized eighth hole (0.687-inch diameter) in the
axle flange is for an antilock brake system (ABS)
wheel speed sensor bushing. See Fig. 2. The eighth
hole is in the 10 or 2 o’clock position, depending on
which side of the axle is viewed.
Q Plus MX500 brakes are extended maintenance
brakes. These brakes can be identified by an identifi-
cation tag affixed to the brake shoe. An additional
identification tag is affixed to the brake camshaft-
and-chamber bracket (on top of the plugged grease
hole). MX500 brakes and Meritor automatic slack
adjusters do not have grease fittings.
22
4
2
9
1
10 12
7
3 11
3 15
20 17
23
24 13
5 14
16
16
21 6
19
4 18
15
7
12/11/97 f421684
07/19/95 f420156a
A. Oversized Hole (10 or 2 o’clock position) for ABS
bushing.
General Safety Precautions the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
WARNING etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or and strength of the original equipment.
drums, always replace components as an axle • Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses that
set. all of the original supports, clamps, or sus-
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at pending devices are installed or replaced.
the same time. • Replace devices that have stripped threads or
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at damaged parts. Repairs requiring machining
the same time. should not be attempted.
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or • Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single certain all components and systems are re-
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, stored to their proper operating condition.
at the same time. Do not mix component
types. Asbestos and Non-Asbestos
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam-
Safety
age, personal injury, or death.
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the WARNING
following precautions: Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply brakes, starting with the removal of the wheels
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and and continuing through assembly. Breathing
chock the tires. brake lining dust (asbestos or non-asbestos)
could cause lung cancer or lung disease. OSHA
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make has set maximum levels of exposure and re-
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser- quires workers to wear an air purifying respirator
voirs before beginning any work on the vehicle. approved by MSHA or NIOSH.
Depleting air system pressure may cause the
vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from brake Because some brake linings contain asbestos, you
chamber pushrods and slack adjusters, which should know the potential hazards of asbestos and
may apply as air pressure drops. the precautions to be taken. Exposure to airborne
asbestos brake lining dust can cause serious and
• Disconnect the batteries. possibly fatal diseases such as asbestosis (a chronic
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line lung disease) and cancer.
containing compressed air. It may whip as air Because medical experts believe that long-term ex-
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe posure to some non-asbestos fibers could also be a
plug unless you are certain all system pressure health hazard, the following precautions should also
has been released. be observed if servicing non-asbestos brake linings.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al- Areas where brake work is done should be separate
ways wear safety glasses when working with from other operations, if possible. As required by
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di- OHSA regulations, the entrance to the areas should
rect them at anyone. have a sign displayed indicating the health hazard.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble, or in- During brake servicing, an air purifying respirator with
stall a component until you have read and un- high-efficiency filters must be worn. The respirator
derstand the service procedures. Some com- and filter must be approved by MSHA or NIOSH, and
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury worn during all procedures.
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
WARNING NOTICE
Before starting the procedure below, read the For a Meritor automatic slack adjuster, disengage
safety precaution information in Subject 100. Fail- the pull-pawl before turning the manual adjusting
ure to be aware of the dangers of brake lining nut. Failure to do so could damage the pull-pawl
dust exposure could result in serious and perma- teeth. The brake clearance will not automatically
nent health damage. adjust if the pull-pawl is damaged.
IMPORTANT: When replacing the brake linings, 4. If your vehicle has a Meritor automatic slack ad-
use a dial indicator to measure the cam-to- juster, disengage the pull-pawl on the side of the
bushing radial free play (the up-and-down and adjuster.
side-to-side free play of the camshaft) and the 4.1 Using a screwdriver or an equivalent tool,
camshaft axial end play (the in-and-out end play pry the pawl button out about 1/32 inch
of the camshaft). (0.8 mm). See Fig. 1.
Replace the bushings if the cam-to-bushing ra- 4.2 Wedge the tool in place until the end of
dial free play exceeds 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) of the brake shoe installation. Pull-pawls are
spring loaded. When the tool is removed,
movement. the pull-pawl will engage the teeth auto-
Remove the snap ring from the end of the slack matically.
adjuster and add shims between the slack ad-
juster and the snap ring if the axial end play ex- A
ceeds 0.005 to 0.030 inch (0.13 to 0.80 mm) of
movement.
For detailed instructions, see Subject 150.
Removal
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
parking brakes, and shut down the engine.
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re-
paired.
2. Raise the front or rear axle and place safety
09/27/94 f420693a
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the
stands will support the weight of the vehicle. A. Insert a screwdriver here to pry the pull-pall button
out about 1/32 inch (0.8 mm).
05/15/2013 f430553
08/09/94 f420668a
Fig. 4, Return Spring Removal/Installation, Offset Tie
Bar
Fig. 2, Cam Roller Removal
9. Inspect the brake shoes and linings for wear or
8.2 Lift the upper brake shoe and pull on the damage. For instructions, see Subject 120.
roller retaining clip to remove the upper IMPORTANT: If the linings are being replaced,
cam roller. disassemble and inspect the camshaft-and-
8.3 Lift the lower shoe to release tension on chamber bracket. For instructions, see Sub-
the brake return spring. Remove the ject 150.
spring. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4.
8.4 Rotate the lower shoe around the anchor Installation
pin on the spider to release tension on the
two retaining springs. See Fig. 5. Remove IMPORTANT: For best brake performance, do
the brake shoes. not mix Q Plus brakes with other brakes.
08/09/94 f420688a
08/09/94 f420670a
NOTICE
Fig. 5, Brake Shoe Removal If the offset tie bar shoe return spring is reversed
during installation, it will rub a groove in the bar-
NOTE: Springs, rollers, and anchor pins should rel of the hub, requiring the hub to be replaced.
be replaced when installing new brake linings.
1.3 Rotate the lower brake shoe forward
1. Install the brake shoes. around the hub and install a new brake
IMPORTANT: Do not lubricate the cam-head shoe return spring. Install the open end of
surface or the center section of the cam roll- the spring hooks toward the camshaft.
ers. For efficient operation, the cam interface See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4.
must remain free of oil, grease, and other 1.4 Pull the lower brake shoe away from the
contaminants. cam to allow enough space to install a
new cam roller and retainer clip.
1.1 Using an NLGI grade 1 or 2 multi-purpose
chassis or temperature-resistant grease Squeeze the ears of the retainer clip to-
(Meritor O-616A, O-617A, O-617B, O-645, gether to fit between the brake shoe webs
or O-692): on the cam end of the brake shoes. See
Fig. 7.
• Lubricate the cam rollers on the
journals where they touch the brake Push the retainer clips between the brake
shoe webs. shoe webs until the ears lock in the holes
• Lubricate the anchor pins where in the webs. See Fig. 8.
they touch the brake shoe webs. 2. Install the brake drums. For instructions, see
Section 33.01, Subject 100, for front axles or
1.2 Place the upper brake shoe in position on
Section 35.01, Subject 100, for rear axles.
the upper anchor pin. Hold the lower
brake shoe vertically against the lower 3. Install the wheels. For instructions, see Sec-
anchor pin and install two new brake shoe tion 40.00, Subject 100.
WARNING
When work is being done on a spring chamber,
carefully follow the service instructions of the
chamber manufacturer. The sudden release of a
1 compressed spring can cause serious personal
A
injury.
6. If the brakes have spring chambers, carefully
release the springs.
WARNING
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
08/09/94 f420687a ability, which could cause personal injury or
A. Squeeze the ears of the retainer together. death, and property damage.
1. Brake Shoe Webs 7. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation
before you put the vehicle in service.
Fig. 7, Squeezing the Retainer
7.1 Apply and release the brakes several
times to check for air leaks and proper
operation of the slack adjusters.
7.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
proper parts replacement and full vehicle
control.
7.3 Immediately after doing the above stops,
check the drum temperatures. Any drums
that are significantly cooler than others
shows a lack of braking effort on those
wheels.
08/09/94 f420689a
A. Push the retainer until the ears lock in the holes.
1. Web Hole
WARNING A B
Inspection
12/10/97 f421676
1. Remove the brake shoes using the instructions A. Cracks exceeding 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) in length.
in Subject 110. B. Cracks or voids exceeding 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) in
width.
2. Check the linings.
Fig. 1, Cracks and Voids
2.1 If the linings are grease- or oil-soaked,
cracked, or worn to less than 1/4-inch
(6.4-mm) thickness at any point, replace
them.
CAUTION
Do not let the brake linings wear to the point
were the rivets or bolts touch the drums. Damage
to the drums will occur if the linings are allowed A
to wear to this point.
2.2 Replace the linings if the lining surface is 12/23/97 f421677
closer than 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) to any A. Exposed fastening device.
rivet head.
Fig. 2, Portions of Brake Lining Missing
If bolts are installed, the linings should
not be allowed to wear to the point where
rivets or bolts may contact the brake A
drums.
2.3 The lining is considered worn-out and the
vehicle should not be driven if:
• Cracks on the lining surface exceed
1/16 inch (1.6 mm).
• The lining edge shows cracks or
voids over 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) in
width and 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) in
12/10/97 f421678
length. See Fig. 1.
A. Cracks extending through the lining edge.
• Portions of the lining are missing
exposing a rivet when viewed from Fig. 3, Cracks in the Brake Lining
the edge. See Fig. 2.
2.4 The vehicle is still operational but the lin-
• Cracks extend across the lining ings should be replaced as soon as pos-
face and through the lining edge, or sible if:
the lining is loose on the shoe. See
Fig. 3. • Horizontal or vertical cracks in the
lining edge exhibit no loss of mate-
A A
12/23/97 f421692
A. Cracks extending from hole to hole.
12/23/97 f421691
A
A. Corner segment is missing but no fastener is
08/09/94 f420068a
exposed.
A. 12-7/8 inches (327 mm) maximum
Fig. 5, Portions of the Brake Lining Missing
Fig. 7, Measuring the Shoe Span
• Surface cracks extend from hole to
hole or if there is scoring and con-
tamination from road debris. See
Fig. 6.
3. Check the brake shoes for bent or cracked webs
or tables, rust, broken welds, expanded or out-of-
round rivet or bolt holes, and correct alignment.
Replace the shoes if any of these conditions ex-
ist.
4. Check the brake shoes for visible wear (loose-
ness) at the anchor pin holes and the camshaft
roller recesses. Replace the shoe if needed.
Pre-Adjustment Checks and The specific procedure for adjusting the brake cham-
ber stroke at the slack adjuster’s manual adjusting
General Adjustment nut may vary, depending on which slack adjuster is
installed, but there are three basic steps in complet-
Information ing a manual brake chamber stroke adjustment:
Before adjusting the brakes, check and adjust the 1. Adjusting the approximate brake chamber stroke
following: using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
• Adjust the wheel bearings. For instructions, juster (coarse adjustment).
see Section 33.01 or Section 35.01 in this 2. Measuring and adjusting the free-stroke.
manual.
3. Measuring and adjusting the applied chamber
• Check the slack adjuster and the brake cham- stroke (fine adjustment).
ber for loose fasteners and tighten as neces-
sary. For torque specifications, see Specifica- The stroke (free or applied chamber) is the distance
tions, 400. that the large clevis pin moves when the brakes are
applied. The type of force used to move the slack
For slack adjuster installation instructions, see adjuster from its released position to its applied posi-
Section 42.13, Section 42.12, or Sec- tion (where the brake linings contact the brake drum)
tion 42.11 for Meritor, Haldex, or Gunite slack distinguishes the free-stroke from the applied cham-
adjusters, respectively. ber stroke.
Brakes with automatic slack adjusters should never • The free-stroke is measured using a lever to
have to be manually adjusted while in service. The move the slack adjuster. The length of the
only time automatic slack adjusters should be manu- free-stroke equals the clearance between the
ally adjusted is during installation or after the brakes brake linings and the drum when the brakes
have been relined. are not applied.
For cam brakes, there are two brake chamber stroke • The applied chamber stroke is measured using
measurement specifications: applied chamber stroke an 80 to 90 psi (550 to 620 kPa) brake appli-
and free-stroke. cation to move the slack adjuster.
IMPORTANT: The U.S. Department of Transpor- With the engine off, 100 psi (689 kPa) of air tank
tation (DOT) Federal Highway Administration pressure will apply the required 80 to 90 psi (550 to
has issued the applied chamber stroke specifi- 620 kPa) brake application for measuring the applied
cations for cam brakes. When the applied chamber stroke.
chamber stroke is checked and adjusted, it must
not be greater than the DOT specification. See
Table 1.
The applied chamber stroke measurement can be 4. Check the condition of the boot on the slack ad-
used for diagnostic purposes. A stroke that is too juster. It should be held in the correct position
long or too short may indicate excessive wear in the with a retaining clip. If the boot is torn or
cam, cam bushings, return springs, or air chamber. cracked, see Section 42.13 for slack adjuster
disassembly and inspection procedures.
The applied chamber stroke should always be ad-
justed (minimized) to within the specified limit, but it
should not be reduced to the point where the free- CAUTION
stroke is too short and the brakes drag. To check for
brake drag, spin the wheel end, tap the rim lightly Before turning the manual adjusting nut on the
with a hammer, and listen for a drag noise (a sharp slack adjuster, disengage the pull-pawl. Failure to
ringing sound). do so could damage the pull-pawl teeth. A dam-
aged pull-pawl will not allow the slack adjuster to
automatically adjust the brake clearance.
Adjustment
5. Using a screwdriver, pry the pull-pawl button out
at least 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) to disengage the pull-
MERITOR AUTOMATIC SLACK pawl teeth from the slack adjuster actuator. See
ADJUSTER Fig. 1. Wedge the screwdriver in place. The pull-
pawl will need to be disengaged until the brake
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see adjustment is complete.
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust-
ment information at the beginning of this sub- NOTE: When the screwdriver is removed, the
ject. pull-pawl will engage automatically.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the 6. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
parking brakes, and shut down the engine. juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re- adjustment). See Fig. 2.
paired. 6.1 Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise
2. Raise the front or rear axle and place safety until the brake linings touch the brake
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the drum.
stands will support the weight of the vehicle. 6.2 Then, turn the adjusting nut clockwise 1/2
3. Fully release the brakes (the air chamber push- turn.
rod must be fully retracted). 7. Measure and adjust the free-stroke.
A
A B
10/20/93 f420182a
09/27/94 f420693a NOTE: For either free-stroke or applied chamber stroke,
A. Insert screwdriver here. subtract measurement A from B.
A. Measurement with the brakes released.
Fig. 1, Disengage the Pull-Pawl B. Measurement with the brakes applied by manual
lever (free-stroke) or pressurized brake application
(applied chamber stroke).
WARNING 2
11. Check for proper brake operation. For instruc- Fig. 4, Installation Indicator
tions, see Subject 110.
5. Measure how much torque is required to over-
HALDEX AUTOMATIC SLACK come the resistance of the internal clutch (inter-
nal clutch slippage).
ADJUSTER
5.1 Using a 7/16-inch torque wrench, turn the
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see adjusting nut counterclockwise. See
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust- Fig. 5. You will hear a ratcheting sound.
ment information at the beginning of this sub- 5.2 If the clutch slips with a torque less than
ject. 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m), the slack adjuster must
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the be replaced.
parking brakes, and shut down the engine. 6. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re- juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
paired. adjustment).
2. Raise the front or rear axle. Then, place safety 6.1 Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the brake linings contact the brake drum.
stands will support the weight of the vehicle.
B
A
10/17/95 f420699a
1. Adjusting Hexnut 07/05/1995 f420757b
6.2 Then, turn the adjusting nut counterclock- Fig. 6, Measure the Stroke
wise 1/2 turn. You will hear a ratcheting
8.1 Start the engine and build the air pres-
sound.
sure to 100 psi (689 kPa). Shut down the
7. Measure and adjust the free-stroke. engine.
7.1 Measure the distance from the bottom of 8.2 Fully apply the brakes. Then, measure
the brake chamber to the far side of the the distance from the bottom of the brake
clevis pin. See Fig. 6. Record this mea- chamber to the far side of the clevis pin
surement as dimension A. hole. See Fig. 6, Ref. B. Record this
measurement as dimension C.
7.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster
until the brake linings contact the brake 8.3 Subtract dimension A from dimension C.
drum. Then, measure the distance from The difference between these measure-
the bottom of the brake chamber to the ments is the applied chamber stroke.
far side of the clevis pin. See Fig. 6.
8.4 The applied chamber stroke must not ex-
Record this measurement as dimension
ceed the maximum value specified in
B.
Table 1. If the stroke is not correct, turn
7.3 Subtract dimension A from dimension B. the adjusting nut in the required direction.
The difference between these measure- Then, measure the applied chamber
ments is the free-stroke. stroke again and readjust it until it is cor-
rect.
7.4 The free-stroke should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch
(16 to 19 mm). If it is not, turn the adjust- 8.5 If the slack adjuster does not maintain the
ing nut in the required direction. Then, correct applied chamber stroke, check the
measure the free-stroke again and read- condition of the foundation brakes. See
just it until it is correct. Subject 150. If necessary, replace the
slack adjuster.
8. Measure and adjust the applied chamber stroke
(fine adjustment). 9. Lower the vehicle, remove the safety stands, and
remove the chocks from the tires.
WARNING
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been checked for proper operation. To do so 4
5
could result in inadequate or no braking ability,
which could cause personal injury or death, and
6
property damage.
10. Check for proper brake operation. For instruc- 7
tions, see Subject 110. 3
8
GUNITE AUTOMATIC SLACK
ADJUSTER
2 9
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust-
ment information at the beginning of this sub-
1
ject.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
10
parking brakes, and shut down the engine.
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re-
paired.
2. Raise the front or rear axle. Then, place safety
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the 10/27/93 f420653a
stands will support the weight of the vehicle.
1. Adjusting Hexnut 6. Clevis
3. Fully release the brakes (the air chamber push- 2. Grease Fitting 7. Clevis Pin, 1/2-in
rod must be fully retracted). 3. Boot 8. Clevis Pin, 1/4-in
4. Link 9. Grease Relief
4. Measure how much torque is required to over- 5. Brake Chamber Opening
come the resistance of the internal clutch (inter- Pushrod 10. Slack Adjuster Spline
nal clutch slippage).
Fig. 7, Gunite Slack Adjuster
4.1 Using a 7/16-inch torque wrench, turn the
adjusting nut counterclockwise. See 6.1 Measure the distance from the bottom of
Fig. 7. You will hear a ratcheting sound. the brake chamber to the center of the
large clevis pin. See Fig. 8. Record this
4.2 If the clutch slips with a torque less than measurement as dimension A.
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m), the slack adjuster must
be replaced. 6.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster
until the brake linings contact the brake
5. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad- drum.
juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
adjustment). 6.3 Measure the distance from the bottom of
the brake chamber to the center of the
5.1 Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the large clevis pin. See Fig. 8. Record this
brake linings contact the brake drum. measurement as dimension B.
5.2 Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise 6.4 Subtract dimension A from dimension B.
1/2 turn. There should be about 30 lbf·ft The difference between these measure-
(41 N·m) resistance. You will hear a ments is the free-stroke.
ratcheting sound.
6.5 The free-stroke should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch
6. Measure and adjust the free-stroke. (16 to 19 mm). If it is not, turn the adjust-
WARNING A
09/27/94 f420164a
09/27/94 f420717a
A. The clearance between the shoe table and the
ends of the brake lining can be up to 0.025 inch
(0.64 mm).
Disassembly and Inspection 1. Remove the brake shoes. For instructions see
Subject 110.
22
4
2
9
1
10 12
7
3 11
3 15
20 17
23
24 13
5 14
16
16
21 6
19
4 18
15
7
12/11/97 f421684
22
4
2
8
11
1
9 13
7
15 10
3 3 17
12
24 19
27
28 14
5 16
18
25
23 6
21 20
4
26
7
12/12/97 f421685
NOTE: 16-1/2 inch Q Plus MX500 brake with cast spider shown.
1. Anchor Pin 11. Washer (spacer) 20. Pipe Plug
2. Anchor Pin Bushing 12. Washer (thin spacer) 21. Chamber Bracket Seal
3. Retaining Spring 13. Orange Seal, Automatic Slack 22. Brake Spider, Cast
4. Brake Shoe and Lining Assembly Adjuster 23. Return Spring Pin
5. Cam Roller 14. Automatic Slack Adjuster 24. Return Spring
6. Roller Retainer 15. Seal, Automatic Slack Adjuster 25. Camshaft Bushing, 1-5/8 in. ID
7. Capscrew, Chamber Bracket 16. Washer (thick spacer) 26. Orange Camshaft Seal
8. Capscrew, Dust Shield 17. Camshaft Seal 27. Camhead Thrustwasher
9. Dust Shield 18. Camshaft Bushing, 1-1/2 in. ID 28. S-Head Camshaft
10. Camshaft Snap Ring 19. Camshaft-and-Chamber Bracket
8
3
5
2
6
7 11
13
1 10 15
9
4 17
19 12
4
27 8 14
26
28 16
6 18
3 23 20
25 7
21
5 22
24
9
12/12/97 f421686
NOTE: 16-1/2 inch drive axle Q Plus MX500 brake with stamped spider shown.
1. Anchor Pin 11. Capscrew, Dust Shield 20. Camshaft Bushing, 1-1/2 in. ID
2. Brake Spider, Stamped 12. Camshaft Snap Ring 21. Camshaft-and-Chamber Bracket
3. Hexnut (4 qty.) 13. Washer (spacer) 22. Pipe Plug
4. Retaining Spring 14. Washer (thin spacer) 23. Camshaft Bushing, 1-5/8 in. ID
5. Brake Shoe and Lining Assembly 15. Orange Seal, Automatic Slack 24. Orange Camshaft Seal
6. Cam Roller Adjuster 25. Return Spring Pin
7. Retainer 16. Automatic Slack Adjuster 26. Return Spring
8. Washer, Hardened (4 qty.) 17. Seal, Automatic Slack Adjuster 27. Camhead Thrustwasher
9. Bolt (4 qty.) 18. Washer (thick spacer) 28. S-Head Camshaft
10. Dust Shield 19. Camshaft Seal
3.3 Using a wrench, turn the manual adjust- 4.1 Using a dial indicator, measure the up-
ing nut to back the slack adjuster out of and-down and side-to-side free play of
the clevis. the camshaft.
• On Meritor adjustors, turn the 4.2 Replace the camshaft bushings if there is
square adjusting nut clockwise (as more than 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) of free
if loosening a right-hand threaded play.
fastener). 5. Remove the slack adjuster.
4
5
B
6
7
A 3
8
2 9
06/23/94 f420690a
1
A. Check for diameter and out-of-round.
B. Check for cracks, heat checks, glazing, and
grooves. 10
Fig. 4, Brake Drum Inspection
5.1 From the slack adjuster side of the
camshaft-and-chamber bracket, remove
the snap ring and any washers, spacers, 10/27/93 f420653a
and seals from the camshaft. See Fig. 1, NOTE: Gunite automatic slack adjuster shown.
Fig. 2, or Fig. 3.
1. Adjusting Hexnut 6. Clevis
5.2 Remove the slack adjuster from the cam- 2. Grease Fitting 7. Clevis Pin, 1/2-in
shaft. 3. Boot 8. Clevis Pin, 1/4-in
4. Link 9. Grease Relief
6. Inspect the slack adjuster for damage or binding. 5. Brake Chamber Opening
Pushrod 10. Slack Adjuster Spline
6.1 Check the slack adjuster clevis for cracks
or bushing wear. Check the splines for Fig. 5, Disconnect Slack Adjuster from Clevis
chipped teeth and deformation. Replace
as needed. If there is binding, or if more than 25 lbf·in
(280 N·cm) is needed to turn the slack
NOTE: For a Haldex or a Gunite automatic adjuster, replace it. For instructions, see
slack adjuster, there is an internal clutch that the applicable slack adjuster section in
resists the manual adjusting nut from being this group.
turned in the counterclockwise direction.
When checking these slack adjusters for IMPORTANT: If any slack adjuster problem is
binding, only rotate the manual adjusting nut found, repair or replace the unit, depending on
in the clockwise direction. the manufacturer’s recommendations.
7. Remove the camshaft by grasping its head and
6.2 Using a torque wrench that measures
pulling the camshaft outboard from the brake spi-
lbf·in (or N·cm), turn the manual adjusting
der and camshaft-and-chamber bracket. See
nut clockwise so that the worm gear ro-
Fig. 8. Then, remove the thrustwasher from the
tates a full 360 degrees (typically 22 turns
camshaft.
of the wrench).
Fig. 6, Disengage the Pull-Pall on Meritor Automatic inspect the camshaft grease seals. If a grease
Slack Adjusters seal lip is nicked, cut, or distorted, replace it.
WARNING
When removing bushings with a driver, wear eye
protection. Do not hit steel parts with a steel
hammer. To do so could cause steel pieces to
break off, which could cause serious eye injury.
12. Using the correct size driver, remove the cam-
shaft bushings from the camshaft-and-chamber
bracket.
13. Check the camshaft bushings for wear. The inner
surface must be smooth; if rough or abrasive,
replace the bushings.
12/11/97 f421680 14. Remove the brake chamber stud nuts and lock-
washers that attach the brake chamber to the
Fig. 7, Check Free Play camshaft-and-chamber bracket.
8. Check the camshaft spline end for cracks, corro- Check the chamber for a cracked housing, bent
sion, or worn or deformed splines. Replace the pushrod, loose clamp ring, loose air fitting, air
camshaft if it is damaged. leaks, or clogged vent holes. Repair or replace
brake chamber parts as needed.
9. Check the camshaft bearing journals for wear or
corrosion. Replace the camshaft if it is worn or if 15. Remove and inspect the camshaft-and-chamber
roughness is felt in the journal area. bracket. Remove and discard the gasket.
10. Inspect the camshaft head for brinelling, crack- Check the bracket for a bent, broken, or cracked
ing, or flat spots. Replace the camshaft if a ridge arm and cracked welds. Replace the bracket if
can be felt between the worn area and the cam any of these conditions exist.
head surface.
16. Remove the brake spider-to-axle attaching nuts,
11. From the brake spider and slack adjuster ends of hardened washers, and bolts. Remove the brake
the camshaft-and-chamber bracket, remove and spider from the axle flange.
after they have been cleaned, dried, and Place the brake spider on the axle flange. Install
inspected to protect them from corrosion. the mounting fasteners with hardened washers
under the bolt head and nut. Tighten the nuts to
If the parts will be stored, apply a special the specifications in Table 1 in a cross pattern.
material that prevents corrosion and rust See Fig. 9.
on all surfaces. The parts should be
stored in special paper (or other material)
that prevents corrosion and rust.
Assembly
WARNING
Before starting the assembly procedure, read the
information in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to
be aware of the dangers of brake lining dust ex-
posure could result in serious and permanent 12/10/97 f421673
health damage.
Fig. 9, Tighten the Brake Spider Fasteners
1. Install the dust shield, if equipped. See Fig. 1, 3. Install the camshaft-and-chamber bracket.
Fig. 2, or Fig. 3.
Place the camshaft-and-chamber bracket and
Position the dust shield against the brake spider gasket against the brake spider and install the
and install the capscrews. Tighten the capscrews lockwashers and fasteners. Tighten the fasteners
to the specifications in Table 1. to the specifications in Table 1.
2. Install the brake spider.
4.3 Tighten the brake chamber fasteners to Fig. 10, Install the Seals and Bushings
the specifications in Table 2.
IMPORTANT: The grease seals are installed in
both the brake spider and slack adjuster ends of
the camshaft-and-chamber bracket. The grease
seals must be installed with their lips toward the
slack adjuster end of the camshaft-and-chamber
bracket tube. 1 1
NOTE: To maximize lining life, Meritor recom- 2
mends replacing the springs, rollers, anchor
pins, and camshaft bushings when the linings 3
are replaced. For Q Plus brakes with MX500
identification tags, if replacing the linings before
the recommended service interval (3 years or
500,000 miles [800 000 km]), the camshaft
06/23/94 f420685a
bushings and the seals do not need to be re-
placed. NOTE: The seal faces the slack adjuster.
1. Seal Lip
5. Using a seal driver, install the camshaft seals 2. Camshaft-and-Chamber Bracket
and the new camshaft bushings in the brake spi- 3. Brake Spider
der and slack adjuster ends of the camshaft-and-
chamber bracket. See Fig. 10. Install the seals Fig. 11, Positioning the Seals
with their lips toward the slack adjuster. See
Fig. 11.
6. Install the camshaft. See Fig. 12.
6.1 Put the cam head thrustwasher on the
camshaft with the bent flaps toward the
brake spider.
12/10/97 f421672
6.2 Apply a thin film of grease on the inside 7. Install the slack adjuster. For instructions, see
of the camshaft bushings and journals. Section 42.11 for Gunite, Section 42.12 for Hal-
For the recommended grease specifica- dex, or Section 42.13 for Meritor automatic slack
tion, see Specifications, 400. Do not adjusters.
grease the camshaft head area.
6.3 Apply a thin film of rust preventive grease WARNING
on the camshaft splines. For the recom-
mended grease specification, see Speci- When lubricating the camshaft-and-chamber
fications, 400. bracket, if grease leaks out under the cam head,
the camshaft grease seal is worn or damaged. If
6.4 Carefully slip the camshaft in the brake the seal is not replaced, the brake linings could
spider and the camshaft-and-chamber be contaminated by grease and the vehicles
bracket tube. The camshaft should turn stopping distance could be reduced, which could
freely by hand. result in personal injury or property damage.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—No Adjustment or Adjusted Stroke is Too Long
Problem—No Adjustment or Adjusted Stroke is Too Long
Possible Cause Remedy
The wrong slack adjuster is installed. Replace the slack adjuster with the correct one.
The clevis is not installed correctly. Check the slack adjuster installation. For instructions, see the appropriate
slack adjuster section in this group.
There is excessive wear between the Check the gap between the clevis and the collar. The maximum allowable gap
clevis and collar. is 0.060 inch (1.5 mm). Replace the threaded clevis as necessary.
The jam nut at the clevis is loose. Tighten the jam nut to specifications.
The large clevis pin bushing in the slack Measure the inside diameter of the large clevis pin bushing. The inside
adjuster arm is worn. diameter must not be larger than 0.53 inch (13.5 mm). Replace the bushing
as necessary.
The return spring in the air chamber is Check the air spring force. At the first movement of the push rod, the spring
weak or broken. force must beat least 32 lbf (142.3 N). Replace the return spring or air
chamber as necessary.
The spring brake is not fully retracting. Repair or replace the spring brake.
The pull-pawl or the actuator is worn (the Replace the pull-pawl or the actuator in the slack adjuster.
teeth are stripped).
The slack adjuster has internal damage. Inspect the slack adjuster. Repair or replace the slack adjuster as necessary.
For instructions, see the appropriate slack adjuster section in this group.
There is excessive play between the slack Replace the camshaft and/or the slack adjuster as necessary.
adjuster gear and the splines of the
camshaft.
Foundation brake components are worn. Replace the components.
Component Lubrication
Meritor Grease Specification
Brake Type Camshaft Brake Shoe Camshaft Slack
Clevis Pins Anchor Pins
Splines Rollers Bushings Adjuster
All Cam-Master Brakes O-616-A O-616-A O-616-A O-616-A O-616-A O-616A
Except Q Plus MX500
O-637 O-617-A O-617-A O-617-A O-617-A O-645
O-641 O-617-B O-617-B O-617-B O-617-B O-692
O-645 O-637 O-645 O-645 O-645
O-692 O-641 O-692 O-692 O-692
O-645
O-692
Q Plus MX500 Brakes O-695 O-695 O-617-A O-617-A O-616-A O-695
O-617-B O-617-B O-617-A
O-645 O-617-B
O-692 O-645
O-692
Table 4, Component Lubrication
General Description 2
Principles of Operation When the brakes are released and air is exhausted
from the brake chamber, the actuator return spring
(within the brake chamber) and the brake shoe return
When the brake pedal is depressed, compressed air
spring return the camshaft, brake shoes, slack ad-
enters the brake chamber, causing the diaphragm to
juster, and pushrod to their released positions.
move a pushrod assembly.
The pushrod turns the slack adjuster and brake cam-
shaft. As the camshaft turns, the S-head forces the
brake shoes against the brake drum and braking oc-
curs.
General Safety Precautions the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
WARNING etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or and strength of the original equipment.
drums, always replace components as an axle • Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses that
set. all of the original supports, clamps, or sus-
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at pending devices are installed or replaced.
the same time. • Replace devices that have stripped threads or
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at damaged parts. Repairs requiring machining
the same time. should not be attempted.
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or • Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single certain all components and systems are re-
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, stored to their proper operating condition.
at the same time. Do not mix component
types. Asbestos and Non-Asbestos
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam-
Safety
age, personal injury, or death.
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the WARNING
following precautions: Wear a respirator at all times when servicing the
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply brakes, starting with the removal of the wheels
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and and continuing through assembly. Breathing
chock the tires. brake lining dust (asbestos or non-asbestos)
could cause lung cancer or lung disease. OSHA
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make has set maximum levels of exposure and re-
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser- quires workers to wear an air purifying respirator
voirs before beginning any work on the vehicle. approved by MSHA or NIOSH.
Depleting air system pressure may cause the
vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from brake Because some brake linings contain asbestos, you
chamber pushrods and slack adjusters, which should know the potential hazards of asbestos and
may apply as air pressure drops. the precautions to be taken. Exposure to airborne
asbestos brake lining dust can cause serious and
• Disconnect the batteries. possibly fatal diseases such as asbestosis (a chronic
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line lung disease) and cancer.
containing compressed air. It may whip as air Because medical experts believe that long-term ex-
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe posure to some non-asbestos fibers could also be a
plug unless you are certain all system pressure health hazard, the following precautions should also
has been released. be observed if servicing non-asbestos brake linings.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al- Areas where brake work is done should be separate
ways wear safety glasses when working with from other operations, if possible. As required by
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di- OHSA regulations, the entrance to the areas should
rect them at anyone. have a sign displayed indicating the health hazard.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble, or in- During brake servicing, an air purifying respirator with
stall a component until you have read and un- high-efficiency filters must be worn. The respirator
derstand the service procedures. Some com- and filter must be approved by MSHA or NIOSH, and
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury worn during all procedures.
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
WARNING
04/26/93 f420734a
When work is being done on the spring chamber,
carefully follow the service instructions of the A. Lift the upper shoe to stretch the spring.
chamber manufacturer. The sudden release of a B. Remove the cam roller.
compressed spring can cause serious personal Fig. 1, Remove the Upper Cam Roller
injury.
3. If the brake has spring chambers, carefully cage 7.2 Reposition the tool and pry the lower
and lock the springs so that the springs cannot shoe downward. Remove the lower cam
actuate during disassembly. roller.
4. Remove the wheels. For instructions, see Sec- 7.3 Using a large screwdriver or lever, stretch
tion 40.00, Subject 100. the shoe return spring and unhook it from
the upper shoe web. See Fig. 2. Remove
5. Remove the brake drums. For instructions, see the spring from the lower web.
Section 33.01, Subject 100, for front axles or
Section 35.01, Subject 100, for rear axles. 7.4 Rotate the lower shoe downward around
the anchor pin to remove the tension on
the shoe retaining spring. See Fig. 3. Re-
CAUTION move the retaining spring from the lower
shoe. Remove the lower shoe from the
Before you back off the automatic slack adjuster, spider.
refer to the applicable slack adjuster section in
this manual or to the manufacturer’s service in- 7.5 Remove the upper shoe from the spider.
formation for instructions. Failure to do so could
7.6 Discard the cam rollers, shoe return
damage the slack adjusters. spring, and shoe retaining spring.
6. Back off the slack adjuster. For instructions, refer
8. To remove the rear brake shoes (7- or 8-5/8 inch
to the applicable slack adjuster section in this
shoes with dual webs):
manual.
8.1 Pry the roller retainer loops out of both
7. To remove the front brake shoes (4-inch shoes
shoe web holes. See Fig. 4. Pivot the
with single webs):
roller retainer to swing the loops clear of
the shoe webs.
04/26/93 f420735a
04/26/93 f420736a B
07/14/2000 f422140
A. Rotate the lower shoe around the anchor pin.
B. Unhook the retaining spring. A. Lift upper shoe to stretch the return spring.
B. Remove the roller and retainer.
Fig. 3, Rotate the Lower Shoe Downward
Fig. 5, Remove the Cam Roller
8.2 Using a large screwdriver or lever, raise
8.3 Position a suitable lever to engage the
the upper shoe, stretching the return
return-spring rod. See Fig. 6. Force the
spring. See Fig. 5. Remove the cam
lever down to release the tension on the
roller and retainer as a unit.
upper part of the spring. Remove the up- 8.5 Discard the cam rollers and retainers, and
per spring hook. the shoe return spring.
9. Inspect the brake shoes and linings for wear or
damage. For instructions, see Subject 120.
Installation
IMPORTANT: For best brake performance, do
not mix Extended Service brakes with other
Dana Spicer series brakes. Use the same brake
series on the entire vehicle.
1. Make sure the spider, camshaft, air chamber
A bracket, and slack adjuster are serviceable and
properly installed.
06/28/95 f422141
IMPORTANT: Do not lubricate the cam-head
surface or the corresponding surface on the
A. Pry up on the return spring for easy removal of the
upper hook. cam rollers. For efficient operation, the cam in-
terface must remain free of oil, grease, and
Fig. 6, Remove the Return Spring other contaminants.
8.4 Rotate both shoes around the anchor pin 2. Apply a thin film of NLGI grade 1, high-
and remove the shoes from the spider. temperature, waterproof grease (Kendall M-621,
See Fig. 7. or an equivalent) to the half-moon cutouts on the
end of each shoe web where the web contacts
the cam roller and anchor pin.
A 3. To install a single-web brake shoe assembly on a
15-inch front brake:
3.1 Place the upper brake shoe web on the
anchor pin and rotate the shoe assembly
downward until the web is secured in the
shoe hold-down spring (clamp).
NOTE: The shoe hold-down spring is
mounted on the spider between the anchor
pin and the S-cam.
3.2 Hook one end of a new shoe retaining
spring in the hole in the upper shoe web
so that the coil lays across the anchor
pin. See Fig. 8.
3.3 Hook the lower end of the retaining spring
in the hole on the lower shoe web.
07/14/2000 f422142 3.4 Place the lower shoe web against the an-
A. Rotate both shoes around the anchor pin and chor pin and stretch the retaining spring
remove the brake shoes from the spider. enough to rotate the shoe assembly into
place on the spider.
Fig. 7, Remove the Brake Shoes
3.5 Hook one end of a new shoe return
spring in the hole in the lower shoe web.
04/26/93 f420742a
1 A
06/29/95 f420744a
Inspection
WARNING
Before starting this procedure, read the informa-
tion in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to be
aware of the dangers of brake lining dust expo-
sure could result in serious and permanent
health damage.
A
1. Remove the brake shoes. Refer to Subject 110 08/09/94 f420068a
for instructions. A. Measure the distance between recess centers.
2. Inspect the brake shoe linings. Fig. 2, Shoe Span Measurement
On front-axle brakes, if the linings are grease- or
oil-soaked, cracked, or worn to less than 3/16- 4. Check the anchor pin for looseness and cam-
inch (4.5-mm) thickness at any point, replace shaft roller recesses in the shoe webs for visible
them. See Fig. 1. The lining surface should be wear. Replace the shoe if needed.
no closer than 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) to any rivet 5. Check the shoe span. Measure the distance be-
head. tween the centerlines of the anchor pin and cam
On rear-axle brakes, if the linings are grease- or roller recesses in the shoe web. See Fig. 2.
oil-soaked, cracked, or worn to less than 1/4-inch • On 15-inch series brakes, if the measure-
(6.4-mm) thickness at any point, replace them. ment is more than 11-3/4 inches (298
mm), replace the shoe.
• On 16-1/2 inch series brakes, if the mea-
A surement is more than 12-9/16 inches (319
mm), replace the shoe.
B
07/14/2000 f422145
A. Check for cracks or contamination.
B. The lining surface must not be closer than 1/16"
(1.5 mm) to any rivet head.
C. The minimum lining thickness is 3/16" (4.5 mm).
Replacement CAUTION
WARNING Make sure that the replacement lining material
conforms to FMSI 1308, a standard for lining size
Before starting this procedure, read the informa- and shape only. Use of an improper FMSI lining
tion in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to be specification or friction material type may cause
aware of the dangers of brake lining dust expo- brake dragging or grabbing, or improper brake
sure could result in serious and permanent performance.
health damage. 4. Align the brake shoe and lining rivet holes. Using
a C-clamp, clamp the lining to the brake shoe.
IMPORTANT: Vehicle brake systems require the
correct lining material to perform as originally IMPORTANT: Use rivets that have the correct
designed. The type of lining material that is material, shank diameter, length, head size, and
specified for the vehicle is based on several shape. Use tubular rivets that are:
technical considerations and Department of • 1/4-inch (6-mm) diameter by 1/2-inch (13-mm)
Transportation (DOT) braking performance regu- long,
lations. To ensure fewer relines and greater • SAE no. 10-8, and
compatibility with the vehicle’s brake system,
use the same quality of friction lining material • made of zinc- or brass-plated steel.
that was installed at the factory. 5. Insert the correct size rivets into all the holes in
Always reline both wheels of a single axle and the new block. Temporarily hold them in place
all wheels of a tandem axle at the same time. with masking tape.
Always install the same linings and drums on 6. Secure the rivets in the correct sequence.
both wheels of a single axle and all four wheels • For front brake shoes with one-piece,
of a tandem axle. It is not necessary for the 4-inch linings, start with the two middle
steering axle brakes to have the same linings as holes and work toward the ends in a criss-
the rear drive axle brakes. cross pattern.
When the minimum thickness is reached for any • For rear brake shoes, follow the sequence
shown in Fig. 1.
of the brake linings on an axle, reline both
brakes on that axle at the same time. 7. Check for a close fit between the lining and shoe
table.
NOTE: Replace the springs each time the
brakes are relined. Dana Spicer recommends Try to insert a 0.006-inch (0.15-mm) feeler gauge
replacement of the cam rollers at each reline. between the lining and shoe table along the
edges. See Fig. 2. It should not be possible to
1. Remove the brake shoes. For instructions, see insert the gauge anywhere along the edge, ex-
Subject 110. cept at each end beyond the last row of rivets. A
larger clearance may exist in these areas.
CAUTION 8. Remove the C-clamp and masking tape.
Drilling out rivets or cutting off rivet heads with a IMPORTANT: Always adjust the brakes at the
chisel can cause the rivet hole to become out-of- slack adjusters after replacing the linings. For
round. This could damage the brake shoe. instructions, see Subject 150.
2. Using a suitable riveting mandrel, push out (do
not drill out) the old rivets.
3. Clean the shoe table. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 140, "Cleaning."
14
10
3
8
12
6
5 1
2 11
4 7
9
13
08/01/2000 f422154
09/27/94 f420164a
WARNING CAUTION
Before starting this procedure, read the informa- For a Meritor automatic slack adjuster, disengage
tion in Safety Precautions, 100. Failure to be the pull-pawl before turning the manual adjusting
aware of the dangers of brake lining dust expo- nut. Failure to do so could damage the pull-pawl
sure could result in serious and permanent teeth. The brake clearance will not automatically
health damage. adjust if the pull-pawl is damaged.
3.2 For a Meritor automatic slack adjuster,
Disassembly and Inspection disengage the pull-pawl on the side of the
adjuster. Using a screwdriver or an
On front-axle brakes, the upper and lower brake equivalent tool, pry the pawl button out
shoe assemblies have single webs, one-piece brake about 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) and wedge the
shoe linings, and a single retaining spring. See tool in place. See Fig. 5. Pull-pawls are
Fig. 1. spring loaded. When the tool is removed,
the pull-pawl will engage the teeth auto-
On rear-axle brakes, the brake shoe assemblies matically.
have dual webs, two-piece brake shoe linings, and
two retaining springs. Figure 2 is an exploded view IMPORTANT: Never pull the slack adjuster
of a typical rear-axle brake assembly. out of the pushrod clevis. Always turn the
1. Remove the brake shoes. For instructions, see adjusting nut for positioning.
Subject 110. 3.3 Using a wrench, turn the manual adjusting
2. Inspect the drum. nut to back the slack adjuster out of the
clevis.
2.1 Check the drum for cracks. Replace any
cracked drum. • On Meritor adjustors, turn the
square adjusting nut clockwise (as if
2.2 Using a drum caliper or other measuring loosening a right-hand threaded fas-
device, measure the inside diameter of the tener).
drum in several places. Replace the drum
• On Haldex or Gunite adjusters, turn
if it exceeds the maximum diameter
the adjusting hexnut counterclock-
stamped on it.
wise. You will hear a ratcheting
2.3 Check the drum for heat checks, glazing, sound.
grooving, run-out, and out-of-round. See
4. Using a dial indicator, measure the up-and-down
Fig. 3. Some drums that are glazed,
and side-to-side end-play of the camshaft. Re-
grooved, or out-of-round can be repaired.
place the bushings if there is more than 0.020
For detailed instructions, see Sec-
inch (0.5 mm) of movement.
tion 33.01 or Section 35.01.
IMPORTANT: Never pull the slack adjuster out CAUTION
of the pushrod clevis. Always turn the adjusting
nut for positioning. Do not hammer on the slack adjuster to remove
it. Damage to the adjuster or camshaft spline
3. Disconnect the slack adjuster from the pushrod may result.
clevis. For detailed instructions, see Sec-
tion 42.11 for Gunite, Section 42.12 for Haldex, 5. Remove the slack adjuster.
or Section 42.13 for Meritor automatic slack ad- 5.1 From the slack adjuster side of the cam-
justers. shaft support bracket, remove the snap
3.1 Remove the cotter pin from the clevis pin; ring and any washers, spacers, and seals
remove the clevis pin. See Fig. 4. from the camshaft. See Fig. 1 or Fig. 2.
1
2 15 23
3 16 22
17 25
21
4 24
5 18 19
6
7 8 20
9
10 26
11
13
12
14
6 27
5
28
29
35
30 34
31
32 33
24
36
08/01/2000 f420766b
1. Snap Ring 14. Bracket Mounting Bolt 26. Brake Spider and Anchor Pin
2. Camshaft Outer Washers 15. Brake Chamber Assembly
3. Slack Adjuster 16. Cotter Key 27. Hardened Washer
4. Camshaft Inner Washer 17. Clevis Pin 28. Spider Mounting Bolt
5. Grease Seal 18. Grease Fitting 29. Nutsert
6. Camshaft Bushing 19. Camshaft Support Bracket 30. Return Spring
7. Stud Nut 20. Dust Shield Screw 31. Lockwasher
8. Lockwasher 21. Lining Inspection Plug 32. Barrel Nut
9. Spacer 22. Dust Shield 33. Bolt
10. Plain Washer 23. Upper Brake Shoe and Lining 34. Shoe Hold-Down Spring
11. Lockwasher 24. Cam Roller 35. Camshaft
12. Nut 25. Retaining Spring 36. Lower Brake Shoe and Lining
13. Stabilizing Screw
Fig. 1, Front Axle Brake
5.2 Remove the slack adjuster from the cam- 6. Check the slack adjuster for damage and bind-
shaft. ing.
1
2
3
4 17
5 16
6 18
15
7
19
20
6
21
13 5
12
11 14
22
8
10
9 27
23
14
24 26
25
20
28
19
08/01/2000 f422147
1. Snap Ring 11. Lockwasher 20. Retainer Clip
2. Camshaft Outer Washers 12. Stud Nut 21. Spider (stamped spider shown)
3. Slack Adjuster 13. Locknut 22. Hardened Washer
4. Camshaft Inner Washer(s) 14. Washer 23. Spider Mounting Bolt
5. Spring-Loaded Lip Seal 15. Dust Shield Capscrew 24. Bracket Mounting Bolt
6. Camshaft Bushing 16. Dust Shield Plug 25. Return Spring
7. Camshaft Mounting Bracket 17. Dust Shield (2-piece) 26. Camshaft
8. Brake Chamber 18. Upper Brake Shoe and Lining 27. Retaining Springs
9. Clevis Pin Cotter Pin 19. Cam Roller and Pin 28. Lower Brake Shoe and Lining
10. Brake Chamber Clevis Pin
Fig. 2, Rear Axle Brake (typical)
6.1 Check the slack adjuster clevis for cracks NOTE: For a Haldex or a Gunite automatic
or bushing wear. Check the splines for slack adjuster, there is an internal clutch that
chipped teeth and deformation. Replace resists the manual adjusting nut from being
as needed.
4
5
B
6
7
A 3
8
2 9
06/23/94 f420690a
1
A. Measure the diameter and check for out-of-round.
B. Check for cracks, heat checks, glazing, and
grooves. 10
Fig. 3, Check the Drum
A WARNING
Wear eye protection when driving the screw into
the camshaft bracket tube with a pin punch and
hammer. Failure to wear eye protection could re-
sult in personal injury due to flying metal debris.
16.1 Remove the damaged screw by driving it
into the camshaft bracket tube with a pin
punch and hammer.
16.2 Aligning the curvature of the screw head
with the curvature of the bracket tube, in-
stall the new screw. See Fig. 6.
09/27/94 f420693a
A. Insert a screwdriver here and pry the pull-pall out
about 1/32 inch (0.8 mm).
Fig. 5, Disengage the Pull-Pall on Meritor Automatic
Slack Adjusters
04/13/93 f420752a
CAUTION
A. Check for grooving and looseness. A thick layer of oxidation and dirt on the outside
of a brake drum acts as an insulator and may
Fig. 9, Check the Anchor Pin
hinder normal heat dissipation. Make sure oxida-
tion and dirt are removed by wire brushing, or
damage to brake components could occur.
A
3. Using an industrial vacuum cleaner with a HEPA
filter system, remove any dust accumulation from
the brake parts.
4. Wipe the inside of the drums with a damp rag to
remove lining dust.
5. Prepare the brake parts for assembly.
B 5.1 Thoroughly clean all the brake parts.
For ground or polished metal parts, use a
cleaning solvent to clean the parts and
surfaces that are ground or polished.
For rough metal parts, use a cleaning sol-
04/27/93 f420753a
vent or a weak alkaline solution in a hot
solution tank to clean the parts. If a hot
A. Reinforcement Plate Nut solution tank is used, leave the rough
B. Anchor Pin Retaining Nut parts in the hot solution tank until they are
Fig. 10, Check the Anchor Pin Nuts completely cleaned and heated. Remove
the rough parts from the hot solution tank
Cleaning and wash them with water until the alka-
line solution is removed.
Assembly
1. Install the dust shield (if equipped). See Fig. 1 or
Fig. 2.
3. Install the brake chamber and bracket. 3.1 Place the brake chamber on the mounting
bracket with the chamber mounting studs
A through the bracket holes. Install the lock-
washers and stud nuts. Tighten the nuts to
the specifications in Table 1.
3.2 Place the bracket against the spider, and
install the lockwashers and barrel nuts.
Tighten the nuts to the specifications in
Table 1.
3.3 Install the washer, lockwasher, and nut on
the stabilizing screw (if equipped). Tighten
the nut to the specification in Table 1.
4. Install the camshaft in the spider.
4.1 If a camhead thrustwasher was removed
during disassembly, reinstall it in the same
orientation between the S-cam and the
spider. See Fig. 13.
07/17/95 f420754a
A. Uniform 1/8-inch (3-mm) gap. A B
Fig. 11, Two-Piece Dust Shield Installation
07/08/94 f420756a
A. Cast Spider: Place the camhead thrustwasher
under the camhead with the CAST SPIDER arrow
pointing toward the center of the spider. Exception:
for model ES-150-8D, the arrow points away from
the center of the spider.
B. Stamped Spider: Place the camhead thrustwasher
under the camhead with the STAMPED SPIDER
arrow pointing toward the center of the spider.
A
Fig. 13, Install Thrustwasher
4.4 Carefully slip the camshaft into the spider 9. Adjust the brakes at the slack adjusters. For in-
and the mounting bracket tube. structions, refer to Subject 150.
4.5 Install the thick camshaft washer on the 10. Install the brake shoes. For instructions, see
camshaft. Subject 110.
5. Install the slack adjuster on the camshaft, with
the adjuster nut on the side opposite the brake WARNING
chamber.
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
6. Install the thin outer washer(s) and snap ring. been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
7. Using a dial indicator, measure the end play of To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
the camshaft. ability, which could cause personal injury or
death, and property damage.
7.1 With the slack adjuster centered between
the brake chamber bracket and the snap
ring groove, pull inboard on the slack-
adjuster end of the camshaft to take up
the end play.
7.2 Set the dial indicator to zero.
7.3 Push outboard on the slack-adjuster end
of the camshaft and note the maximum
reading.
7.4 There should be 0.005 to 0.045 inch (0.1
to 1.1 mm) of movement. Add or remove
outer washers as needed to adjust the
end play.
WARNING
When lubricating the camshaft bracket bushings,
if grease leaks out under the cam head, the cam-
shaft grease seal is worn or damaged. If the seal
is not replaced, the brake linings could be con-
taminated by grease and the vehicles stopping
distance could be reduced, which could result in
personal injury or property damage.
Pre-Adjustment Checks and The specific procedure for adjusting the brake cham-
ber stroke at the slack adjuster’s manual adjusting
General Adjustment nut may vary, depending on which slack adjuster is
installed, but there are three basic steps in complet-
Information ing a manual brake chamber stroke adjustment:
Before adjusting the brakes, check and adjust the 1. Adjusting the approximate brake chamber stroke
following: using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
• Adjust the wheel bearings. For instructions, juster (coarse adjustment).
see Section 33.01 or Section 35.01 in this 2. Measuring and adjusting the free-stroke.
manual.
3. Measuring and adjusting the applied chamber
• Check the slack adjuster and the brake cham- stroke (fine adjustment).
ber for loose fasteners and tighten as neces-
sary. For torque specifications, see Specifica- The stroke (free or applied chamber) is the distance
tions, 400. that the large clevis pin moves when the brakes are
applied. The type of force used to move the slack
For slack adjuster installation instructions, see adjuster from its released position to its applied posi-
Section 42.12 or Section 42.11 for Haldex or tion (where the brake linings contact the brake drum)
Gunite slack adjusters, respectively. distinguishes the free-stroke from the applied cham-
Brakes with automatic slack adjusters should never ber stroke.
have to be manually adjusted while in service. The • The free-stroke is measured using a lever to
only time automatic slack adjusters should be manu- move the slack adjuster. The length of the free-
ally adjusted is during installation or after the brakes stroke equals the clearance between the brake
have been relined. linings and the drum when the brakes are not
For cam brakes, there are two brake chamber stroke applied.
measurement specifications: applied chamber stroke • The applied chamber stroke is measured using
and free-stroke. an 80 to 90 psi (550 to 620 kPa) brake appli-
cation to move the slack adjuster.
IMPORTANT: The U.S. Department of Transpor-
tation (DOT) Federal Highway Administration With the engine off, 100 psi (689 kPa) of air tank
has issued the applied chamber stroke specifi- pressure will apply the required 80 to 90 psi (550 to
cations for cam brakes. When the applied 620 kPa) brake application for measuring the applied
chamber stroke.
chamber stroke is checked and adjusted, it must
not be greater than the DOT specification. See
Table 1.
The applied chamber stroke measurement can be 4. Check the condition of the boot on the slack ad-
used for diagnostic purposes. A stroke that is too juster. It should be held in the correct position
long or too short may indicate excessive wear in the with a retaining clip. If the boot is torn or
cam, cam bushings, return springs, or air chamber. cracked, see slack adjuster disassembly and in-
spection procedures for information.
The applied chamber stroke should always be ad-
justed (minimized) to within the specified limit, but it
should not be reduced to the point where the free- CAUTION
stroke is too short and the brakes drag. To check for
brake drag, spin the wheel end, tap the rim lightly Before turning the manual adjusting nut on the
with a hammer, and listen for a drag noise (a sharp slack adjuster, disengage the pull-pawl. Failure to
ringing sound). do so could damage the pull-pawl teeth. A dam-
aged pull-pawl will not allow the slack adjuster to
automatically adjust the brake clearance.
Adjustment
5. Using a screwdriver, pry the pull-pawl button out
at least 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) to disengage the pull-
MERITOR AUTOMATIC SLACK pawl teeth from the slack adjuster actuator. See
ADJUSTER Fig. 1. Wedge the screwdriver in place. The pull-
pawl will need to be disengaged until the brake
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see adjustment is complete.
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust-
NOTE: When the screwdriver is removed, the
ment information at the beginning of this sub-
pull-pawl will engage automatically.
ject.
6. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
parking brakes, and shut down the engine.
adjustment). See Fig. 2.
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re-
paired. 6.1 Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise
until the brake linings touch the brake
2. Raise the front or rear axle and place safety
drum.
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the
stands will support the weight of the vehicle. 6.2 Then, turn the adjusting nut clockwise 1/2
turn.
3. Fully release the brakes (the air chamber push-
rod must be fully retracted). 7. Measure and adjust the free-stroke.
A
A B
10/20/93 f420182a
09/27/94 f420693a NOTE: For either free-stroke or applied chamber stroke,
A. Insert screwdriver here. subtract measurement A from B.
A. Measurement with the brakes released.
Fig. 1, Disengage the Pull-Pawl B. Measurement with the brakes applied by manual
lever (free-stroke) or pressurized brake application
(applied chamber stroke).
WARNING 2
11. Check for proper brake operation. For instruc- Fig. 4, Installation Indicator
tions, see Subject 110.
5. Measure how much torque is required to over-
come the resistance of the internal clutch (inter-
HALDEX AUTOMATIC SLACK nal clutch slippage).
ADJUSTER 5.1 Using a 7/16-inch torque wrench, turn the
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see adjusting nut counterclockwise. See
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust- Fig. 5. You will hear a ratcheting sound.
ment information at the beginning of this sub- 5.2 If the clutch slips with a torque less than
ject. 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m), the slack adjuster must
be replaced.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
parking brakes, and shut down the engine. 6. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad-
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re- juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
paired. adjustment).
2. Raise the front or rear axle. Then, place safety 6.1 Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the brake linings contact the brake drum.
stands will support the weight of the vehicle.
B
A
10/17/95 f420699a
1. Adjusting Hexnut 07/05/1995 f420757b
6.2 Then, turn the adjusting nut counterclock- Fig. 6, Measure the Stroke
wise 1/2 turn. You will hear a ratcheting
8.2 Fully apply the brakes. Then, measure the
sound.
distance from the bottom of the brake
7. Measure and adjust the free-stroke. chamber to the far side of the clevis pin
hole. See Fig. 6, Ref. B. Record this mea-
7.1 Measure the distance from the bottom of surement as dimension C.
the brake chamber to the far side of the
clevis pin. See Fig. 6. Record this mea- 8.3 Subtract dimension A from dimension C.
surement as dimension A. The difference between these measure-
ments is the applied chamber stroke.
7.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster un-
til the brake linings contact the brake 8.4 The applied chamber stroke must not ex-
drum. Then, measure the distance from ceed the maximum value specified in
the bottom of the brake chamber to the far Table 1. If the stroke is not correct, turn
side of the clevis pin. See Fig. 6. Record the adjusting nut in the required direction.
this measurement as dimension B. Then, measure the applied chamber
stroke again and readjust it until it is cor-
7.3 Subtract dimension A from dimension B. rect.
The difference between these measure-
ments is the free-stroke. 8.5 If the slack adjuster does not maintain the
correct applied chamber stroke, check the
7.4 The free-stroke should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch condition of the foundation brakes. See
(16 to 19 mm). If it is not, turn the adjust- Subject 150. If necessary, replace the
ing nut in the required direction. Then, slack adjuster.
measure the free-stroke again and read-
just it until it is correct. 9. Lower the vehicle, remove the safety stands, and
remove the chocks from the tires.
8. Measure and adjust the applied chamber stroke
(fine adjustment).
8.1 Start the engine and build the air pressure
to 100 psi (689 kPa). Shut down the en-
gine.
WARNING
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
been checked for proper operation. To do so 4
5
could result in inadequate or no braking ability,
which could cause personal injury or death, and
6
property damage.
10. Check for proper brake operation. For instruc- 7
tions, see Subject 110. 3
8
GUNITE AUTOMATIC SLACK
ADJUSTER 2 9
IMPORTANT: Before adjusting the brakes, see
the pre-adjustment checks and general adjust-
ment information at the beginning of this sub- 1
ject.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the 10
parking brakes, and shut down the engine.
Chock the tires on the axle that is not being re-
paired.
2. Raise the front or rear axle. Then, place safety
stands under the frame or axle. Be sure the 10/27/93 f420653a
stands will support the weight of the vehicle. 1. Adjusting Hexnut 6. Clevis
3. Fully release the brakes (the air chamber push- 2. Grease Fitting 7. Clevis Pin, 1/2-in
3. Boot 8. Clevis Pin, 1/4-in
rod must be fully retracted). 4. Link 9. Grease Relief
4. Measure how much torque is required to over- 5. Brake Chamber Opening
come the resistance of the internal clutch (inter- Pushrod 10. Slack Adjuster Spline
nal clutch slippage). Fig. 7, Gunite Slack Adjuster
4.1 Using a 7/16-inch torque wrench, turn the
6.1 Measure the distance from the bottom of
adjusting nut counterclockwise. See
the brake chamber to the center of the
Fig. 7. You will hear a ratcheting sound.
large clevis pin. See Fig. 8. Record this
4.2 If the clutch slips with a torque less than measurement as dimension A.
15 lbf·ft (20 N·m), the slack adjuster must
6.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster un-
be replaced.
til the brake linings contact the brake
5. Using the manual adjusting nut on the slack ad- drum.
juster, adjust the brake chamber stroke (coarse
6.3 Measure the distance from the bottom of
adjustment).
the brake chamber to the center of the
5.1 Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the large clevis pin. See Fig. 8. Record this
brake linings contact the brake drum. measurement as dimension B.
5.2 Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise 6.4 Subtract dimension A from dimension B.
1/2 turn. There should be about 30 lbf·ft The difference between these measure-
(41 N·m) resistance. You will hear a ratch- ments is the free-stroke.
eting sound.
6.5 The free-stroke should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch
6. Measure and adjust the free-stroke. (16 to 19 mm). If it is not, turn the adjust-
General Information Dry air exits the bottom of the desiccant cartridge
and flows through the center of the base assembly.
The air then flows to the delivery check valve, to the
The function of the dryer reservoir module (DRM) is
safety valve and also through an orifice plug into the
to provide the vehicle with an integrated air dryer,
purge reservoir reservoir. Air traveling through the
secondary reservoir, purge reservoir, and governor.
delivery check valve flows to the governor and two
See Fig. 1.
pressure protection valves.
3 As pressure builds during the initial charge, the
2 purge reservoir fills. When the air pressure reaches
103 psi (710 kPa), the first pressure protection valve
opens, filling the primary reservoir. When the primary
4 reservoir pressure reaches 109 psi (752 kPa) the
second pressure protection valve opens and air is
5 supplied to the secondary reservoir and accessory
pressure protection valves. When air pressure in the
9 6 secondary reservoir reaches 55 and 85 psi (379 to
586 kPa) respectively, the two remaining pressure
1 protection valves open and supply air to the accesso-
8 7 7
04/09/98 f421913 ries.
1. Secondary Reservoir 6. Auxiliary Delivery
2. Integrated Purge Port
NOTE: There is no external air line from the air
Reservoir 7. Pressure Protection dryer to the secondary reservoir. Air is supplied
3. Desiccant Cartridge Valves by a line passing through the purge reservoir.
4. Safety Valve 8. AD-IS Air Dryer
5. Heater/Thermostat 9. Governor The air dryer will remain in the charge cycle until the
Assembly air brake system pressure builds to the governor cut-
out setting of approximately 130 psi (896 kPa).
Fig. 1, Dryer Reservoir Module
The air dryer collects and removes air system con-
PURGE CYCLE (See Fig. 3)
taminants in solid, liquid, and vapor form before they When air brake system pressure reaches the cutout
enter the brake system. It provides clean, dry air to setting of the governor, the governor unloads the
the components of the brake system which increases compressor and the purge cycle begins. When the
the life of the system. governor unloads the compressor, it pressurizes the
compressor unloader mechanism and the dryer con-
CHARGE CYCLE (See Fig. 2) trol port. The purge piston moves in response to air
pressure, causing the purge valve to open and the
When the compressor is loaded, compressed air, oil, turbo cutoff valve to close. When the purge valve
oil vapor, water, and water vapor flow through the opens, water and contaminants are expelled. Air
compressor discharge line to the supply port of the flowing through the desiccant cartridge changes di-
air dryer body. rection and begins to flow toward the open purge
As air travels through the air dryer assembly, its tem- valve. Oil and solid contaminants collected in the oil
perature falls, causing some of the contaminants to separator are removed by air flowing from the purge
condense and drop to the bottom of the air dryer as- reservoir, through the desiccant drying bed, and out
sembly, ready to be expelled at the next purge cycle. through the open purge valve.
The air then flows into the desiccant cartridge. Once The purge cycle lasts only a few seconds and is de-
in the desiccant cartridge, air flows through an oil tected by an audible burst of air at the air dryer
separator which removes oil and solid contaminants. exhaust.
Air then flows into the desiccant drying bed. Air flow- The reactivation of the desiccant drying bed begins
ing through the desiccant becomes progressively as dry air flows from the purge reservoir, through the
dryer as water vapor adheres to the desiccant mate- purge orifice, and into the desiccant bed. Pressurized
rial. air from the purge reservoir expands after passing
10
9
6 12 13
7
11
8
20
19
18 17 16
15 14
3
A
21
1
04/16/98 f421911
10
6 9
12 13
7
11
8
21
20 18 17
19 16
15 14
3
A
22
1
04/16/98 f421912
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
A. Chock the tires and stop the engine before work-
ing under the vehicle. Releasing air from the sys-
tem may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep hands
away from brake chamber push rods and slack
adjusters; they will apply as air pressure drops.
B. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
C. Never exceed recommended air pressure and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or direct
them at anyone.
D. Never attempt to disassemble a component until
you have read and understood recommended
procedures. Some components contain powerful
springs and injury can result if not correctly dis-
assembled. Use only correct tools and observe
all precautions regarding use of those tools.
1
06/08/98 f421935
Installation
1. Install the delivery check valve and governor
onto the air dryer. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 130.
2
3
04/16/98 f421910
1. Desiccant Cartridge 3. Threaded Base Post
2. Cartridge Sealing
Ring
2 3
7 4
6
5
02/23/2000 f430116a
1. Air Dryer Base 4. Capscrews 7. Spring
2. Gasket 5. Adaptor 8. Check Valve Body
3. Governor 6. O-Ring 9. O-Ring
Replacement (See Fig. 1) 7. Install the new purge valve assembly in the end
cover while making sure the purge valve housing
is fully seated against the end cover.
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, see 8. Install the new retaining ring in its groove in the
Safety Precautions 100. end cover.
9. Perform the operational tests in Subject 170.
10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
5
1 3
2
05/04/98 f421924
1 3
2 4
04/13/98
5 f430117
1. Retaining Ring
2. Heater/Thermostat Connector Plug
3. Heater/Thermostat Assembly
4. O-Ring
5. Air Dryer Body
A
4
06/27/98 f421936
A. Loosen this fastener.
1. Fuel Tank Bracket
2. Right Frame Rail
3. Air Reservoir
4. 3/8–16 Strap Fastener
Operational Tests 9. Check the operation of the end cover heater and
thermostat assembly during cold weather opera-
tion as follows:
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, see 9.1 Check the electric power to the air dryer.
Safety Precautions 100. With the ignition or engine kill switch in
the ON position, check for voltage to the
1. Park the vehicle, shut down the engine, and heater and thermostat assembly using a
chock the tires. voltmeter or test-light. Unplug the electri-
2. Install a pressure gauge in one of the spare gov- cal connector at the air dryer and place
ernor ports labeled "RES." the test leads on each of the connections
of the female connector on the vehicle
3. Close all drain cocks and start the engine. Build power lead. If there is no voltage, look for
the air system to governor cutout and shut down a blown fuse, broken wires, or corrosion
the engine. in the vehicle wiring harness. Check to
4. Check all air lines and fittings leading to and see if a good ground path exists.
from the air dryer for leakage. Note the pressure 9.2 Test the thermostat and heater operation.
on the air gauge after the governor cutout pres- Turn off the ignition switch and cool the
sure is reached, a rapid loss of pressure could thermostat and heater assembly to below
indicate a leaking delivery port check valve or 40°F (4°C). Using an ohmmeter, check
turbo cut-off valve. the resistance between the electrical pins
5. To check for delivery check valve leakage, allow in the air dryer connector half. The resis-
the system air pressure to charge and listen for tance should be 1.5 to 3.0 ohms for the
the air dryer to purge. The purge should last 12-volt heater assembly and 6 to 9 ohms
about 30 seconds. for the 24-volt heater assembly.
6. Gradually open the drain cock on the purge tank Warm the thermostat and heater assem-
and exhaust any residual pressure. bly to about 90°F (32°C) and check the
resistance again. The resistance should
7. Coat the drain cock with a soap solution. If leak- exceed 1000 ohms. If the resistance val-
age does not exceed a 1-inch (25.4-mm) bubble ues obtained are within the stated limits,
in 1 second, go to step 9. the thermostat and heater assembly is
If leakage does exceed a 1-inch (25.4-mm) operating properly. If the resistance val-
bubble in one second, proceed with the following ues obtained are outside the stated limits,
step. replace the heater and thermostat assem-
bly. For instructions, see Subject 150.
8. Apply the brakes a few times, bring the air pres-
sure to a point below governor cut-in (about 95 10. Check the pressure protection valves. Observe
psi [655 kPa]). The governor will then signal the the pressure gauges of the vehicle as system
end of the purge cycle, closing the turbo cut-off pressure builds from zero. The primarygauge
valve. Allow any delivery line air pressure to should rise until it reaches approximately 109 psi
drain, then check again for leakage at the purge (752 kPa), then level off as the second pressure
tank drain cock. If excessive leakage has protection valve opens and allow the secondary
stopped, the turbo cut-off valve should be volume to build. When the secondary pressure
checked. gauge passes through approximately 55 and 85
psi (379 and 586 kPa) there should be an asso-
NOTE: If after replacing the delivery check ciated leveling off of pressure as the third and
valve, rapid loss of system air pressure contin- fourth pressure protection valves open. Then,
ues, the delivery check valve and turbo cut-off both the primary and secondary gauges should
valve are still leaking. Check the valves. reach their full pressure of about 130 psi (896
kPa)
11. Remove the chocks.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Air Dryer is Constantly Purging (Cycling)
Problem—Air Dryer is Constantly Purging (Cycling) or Purging Excessively
Possible Cause Remedy
There is excessive system leakage. Using a soap and water solution, test for leakage at the air line fittings, drain
cock (or valve), and the safety valve in the primary reservoir. Repair or
replace as necessary.
NOTE: A drop of 3 psi (21 kPa) in system air pressure per minute is normal.
The application air lines are leaking Check the application air line, brake valve, and the service and parking brake
excessively. chambers for air leaks. Repair or replace the damaged component(s).
The delivery check valve leaking Replace the Check Valve. See Subject 130.
excessively
The compressor unloader O-rings are Troubleshoot the compressor. See Group 13.
leaking excessively
Problem—Desiccant Material is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust
Problem—Desiccant Material is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust
Possible Cause Remedy
The air dryer is not securely mounted. Replace the air dryer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
The desiccant cartridge is saturated or Replace the air dryer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
malfunctioning.
The compressor is passing excessive oil. Troubleshoot the compressor. See Group 13. If necessary, replace the air
dryer. For instructions, see Subject 110.
11
12
10
24
13
23
3
22
9
21
4
5
8 14
20
7 6 15
17
19
18
16
09/16/94 f420867a
1. Upper Bracket 9. End Cover 17. Purge Valve
2. Outer Shell 10. Upper Bracket Strap 18. Turbo Cutoff Piston
3. Lower Bracket 11. Check Valve 19. Purge Valve Housing Assembly
4. Control Port 12. Upper Bracket 20. Supply Port
5. Supply Port 13. Housing 21. Control Port
6. Wiring Harness 14. Lower Bracket 22. Oil Separator
7. Delivery Port 15. Check Valve Assembly 23. Desiccant Bed
8. Check Valve Assembly 16. Delivery Port 24. Desiccant Cartridge
screw-in desiccant cartridge requires removal of the The drop-in style air dryer can only be used on
air dryer assembly from the vehicle. vehicles equipped with Holset "E" and "QE"
type air compressors. This air dryer eliminates
The AD–9 has three female pipe thread air connec-
any external plumbing requirements (such as
tions; each is identified as follows in Table 1.
the ECON valve, make-up line, and make-up
line check valve). All of these components are
Port I.D. Function/Connection an integral part of the air dryer.
Control Port (purge valve control and turbo
4-CON
cutoff)
Principles of Operation
11-SUP Supply Port (air in)
2-DEL Delivery Port (air out) The AD–9 air dryer alternates between two opera-
tional modes or cycles during operation: the charge
Table 1, Air Dryer Port Identification
cycle and the purge cycle.
There are 2 versions of the AD–9 air dryer available: CHARGE CYCLE (See Fig. 4)
• Standard (see Fig. 2):
2
D D
5
1 3
C
S D
4 S
05/04/95 f421343
2
D D
5
S
1
3
4 S
C D
S
6
05/04/95 f421341
Fig. 3, Drop-In Style Air Dryer Plumbing Diagram (with Holset or Cummins air compressor)
perature, causing contaminants to condense and PURGE CYCLE (See Fig. 5)
drop to the bottom or sump of the air dryer end
cover. When the brake system pressure reaches the gover-
nor cutout setting, the compressor unloads (air com-
After exiting the end cover, air flows into the desic- pression stopped), and the purge cycle of the air
cant cartridge. Once in the cartridge, air first flows dryer begins. When the governor unloads the com-
through an oil separator, which removes water, oil, oil pressor, it pressurizes the unloader mechanism and
vapor, and solid contaminants. line connecting the governor unloader port to the
Air exits the oil separator and enters the desiccant AD–9 end cover control port. The purge piston
drying bed. Air flowing through the column of desic- moves in response to air pressure causing the purge
cant becomes progressively drier as water vapor valve to open to atmosphere and partially close off
sticks to the desiccant material in a process known the supply of air from the compressor. This is further
as adsorption. The desiccant cartridge, using the ad- discussed under "Turbo Cutoff Feature."
sorption process typically removes 95 percent of the Contaminants in the end cover sump are expelled
water vapor from the pressurized air. immediately when the purge valve opens. Also, air
Most of the dry air exits the desiccant cartridge that was flowing through the desiccant cartridge
through its integral single check valve to fill the purge changes direction and begins to flow toward the
volume between the desiccant cartridge and outer open purge valve. Oil and solid contaminants col-
shell. Some air also exits the desiccant cartridge lected by the oil separator are removed by air flowing
through the purge orifice adjacent to the check valve. from the desiccant drying bed to the open purge
valve.
Dry air flows out of the purge volume through the
single check valve assembly and out the delivery The initial purge and desiccant cartridge decompres-
port to the first (supply) reservoir of the air system. sion last only a few seconds and are signaled by an
audible burst of air at the AD–9 exhaust. The actual
The air dryer remains in the charge cycle until air reactivation of the desiccant drying bed begins as dry
brake system pressure builds to the governor cutout air flows from the purge volume through the desic-
setting. cant cartridge purge orifice and into the desiccant
drying bed. Pressurized air from the purge volume
expands after passing through the purge orifice; its
2 3
1
18 4
17
14 15 16
5
12 11
6
7
13 10
9 8
05/26/95 f420541a
1. Desiccant Cartridge 7. Sump 13. Reservoir
2. Check Valve 8. Heater Element 14. Governor
3. Orifice 9. Exhaust 15. Compressor
4. Purge Volume 10. Purge Valve 16. Control Port
5. Check Valve Assembly 11. Supply Port 17. Oil Separator
6. Delivery Port 12. Engine Turbocharger 18. Desiccant Bed
3
2
1
19
18
15 16 17
5
13 12
7
11 10 6
8
14
05/09/95 9 f420542a
TURBO CHARGER CUTOFF At the beginning of the purge cycle, the downward
travel of the purge piston is stopped when the turbo
FEATURE (See Fig. 6) cutoff valve (tapered portion of the purge piston) con-
Primarily, the turbo cutoff valve prevents loss of en- tacts its mating metal seat in the purge valve hous-
gine turbocharger air pressure through the AD–9 in ing. With the turbo cutoff valve seated (closed posi-
systems where the compressor intake is connected tion), air in the discharge line and AD–9 supply port
to the engine turbocharger. The turbo cutoff valve is restricted from entering the air dryer. While the
also reduces the puffing of air out the open exhaust turbo cutoff effectively prevents loss of turbocharger
when a naturally aspirated, single cylinder compres- boost pressure to the engine, some seepage of air
sor equipped with an inlet check valve is in use. may be detected under certain conditions of com-
3 5
6
2 4
09/16/94 f420543a
1. Supply Port 4. Exhaust
2. Discharge Line 5. Purge Valve
3. Turbocharger Cutoff 6. Check Valve
Piston Assembly
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
1. Chock the tires and shut down the engine before
working under a vehicle. Depleting air system
pressure may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep
hands away from brake chamber push rods and
slack adjusters, which may apply as air pressure
drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure, and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or direct
them at anyone.
4. Don’t disassemble a component until you have
read and understood the service procedures.
Some components contain powerful springs, and
injury can result if not properly disassembled.
Use the correct tools, and observe all precau-
tions pertaining to use of those tools.
5. Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
and strength of the original equipment.
Make sure that when replacing tubing or hose,
all of the original supports, clamps, or suspend-
ing devices are installed or replaced.
6. Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining should
not be attempted.
Removal (See Fig. 1) 3.5 Remove the air dryer from its mounting
brackets.
CAUTION
While servicing the air dryer, don’t use a clamp-
ing device (vise, C-clamp, etc.) to hold any die
cast aluminum part, as damage may result. To
hold the end cover, install a pipe nipple in the
supply port, and clamp the nipple in a vise.
2
11
3 9
4 25
5 12 10 8
14 10
24
10
10 10
8 10
6
23
13
10 15 22
7
8 21
20
18 19
17
16
08/09/95 f421383
1. 5/16-Inch x 4-1/2 Inch Upper 9. Desiccant Cartridge 18. Purge Valve
Bracket Capscrew 10. O-Ring 19. 1/4-Inch Tapping Screw
2. Upper Bracket Strap 11. Safety Valve 20. Purge Valve Housing
3. 5/16-Inch Lockwasher 12. Lower Mounting Bracket 21. Heater and Thermostat Assembly
4. 5/16-Inch Locknut 13. 3/8-Inch Capscrew (Long) 22. Return Spring
5. Upper Mounting Bracket 14. Check Valve Assembly 23. Purge Piston
6. Housing 15. Purge Valve Assembly 24. 3/8-Inch Capscrew
7. Locknut 16. Purge Valve Bolt 25. End Cover
8. 3/8-Inch Special Washer 17. Exhaust Diaphragm
6. Remove the remaining six capscrews (Ref. 24), 6. Inspect the purge-valve housing bore and seats
locknuts (Ref. 7), and twelve special washers for excessive wear and scuffing.
(Ref. 8) that secure the end cover to the housing
7. Inspect the purge valve piston seat for excessive
(Ref. 6). Separate the end cover and desiccant
wear.
cartridge (Ref. 9) from the housing (Ref. 6).
8. Inspect all air line fittings for corrosion. Clean all
7. Remove the end-cover-to-outer-housing O-ring.
old thread sealant from the pipe threads.
8. Don’t remove the safety valve (Ref. 11) from the
9. Replace all removed O-rings with new ones that
end cover unless it is known to be inoperative. If
are provided in the kits.
replacement is needed, apply thread sealant or
Teflon® tape on the threads of the replacement Replace parts that show any of the conditions
valve and tighten 120 to 400 lbf·in (1360 to 4520 described in the previous steps.
N·m). Make sure the drain hole (slot) is facing
down.
Assembly (See Fig. 1)
9. Place a strap or chain wrench around the desic-
cant cartridge (Ref. 9) so that it is about 2 to 3
inches (5 to 8 cm) away from the end cover. Ro- WARNING
tate the cartridge counterclockwise until it com-
Before working on or around air brake systems
pletely separates from the end cover.
and components, read the safety precautions in
NOTE: Torque of up to 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) may be Subject 100. Failure to do so could result in per-
needed to do this disassembly. sonal injury.
10. Remove the desiccant cartridge O-ring from the 1. Before assembly, coat all O-rings, O-ring
end cover. grooves, and bores with a generous amount of
barium-base lubricant. See Fig. 1 during assem-
Cleaning and Inspection bly unless otherwise advised.
IMPORTANT: When installing the heater and
WARNING thermostat assembly, make sure that the seal
ring under the electrical connector is not twisted.
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, read the safety precautions in 2. Install the heater and thermostat assembly.
Subject 100. Failure to do so could result in per- 2.1 Insert the heater element into the slot in
sonal injury. the purge valve housing until the connec-
tor contacts the housing.
1. Wash all metal parts thoroughly, using a quality
commercial solvent, such as mineral spirits. 2.2 Gently push the connector and the ther-
mostat to the left until the thermostat
2. Check for severe corrosion, pitting, and cracks clears the cavity in the housing. Then,
on the inside and outside of all metal parts that turn the connector to the right while push-
will be reused. Superficial corrosion and pitting ing the thermostat all the way down into
on the outside of the upper and lower body the cavity.
halves is acceptable.
Make sure that the connector is seated
3. Inspect the bores of both the end cover and the evenly against the housing.
purge-valve housing for deep scuffing or gouges.
2.3 Install the two mounting screws. Tighten
4. Make sure that all purge-valve housing and end the screws 10 to 20 lbf·in (113 to 226
cover passages are open and free of blockages. N·cm).
5. Inspect the pipe threads in the end cover. Make 3. Assemble the purge-valve housing.
sure they are clean and free of thread sealant.
3.1 Install the O-ring on the purge piston.
Place the return spring in the purge-valve
housing. Place the O-ring in the bore of contact was made with the O-ring. Torque
the purge piston. Insert the purge piston should not exceed 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m).
into the spring. Push the piston into the
purge-valve housing until it bottoms. 6. Install the housing over the desiccant cartridge.
3.2 While holding the purge piston in, install 6.1 Install the large O-ring on the shoulder in
the following parts: the purge valve with the end cover. Place the housing over the
its rubber side first, followed by the dia- desiccant cartridge and align the holes.
phragm and the bolt. Torque the purge 6.2 Install the six capscrews, locknuts, and
valve bolt 60 to 80 lbf·in (680 to 900 the twelve special washers, making sure
N·cm). they are positioned as referenced earlier.
3.3 Install the three O-rings in their correct The two longer capscrews will be used to
locations on the purge-valve housing. secure the air dryer to its mounting
bracket.
3.4 If an extended type exhaust cover was
removed, install it on the purge-valve 6.3 Tighten the six capscrews and nuts in a
housing assembly, making sure the star pattern (depending on lower bracket
"bubble" portion is positioned over the location) 23 to 32 lbf·ft (306 to 434 N·m).
thermostat. See Fig. 2.
Testing
During cold-weather operation, check the operation
of the end cover heater and thermostat assembly.
1. With the ignition on, check for voltage to the
heater and thermostat assembly. Unplug the
electrical connector at the air dryer, and place
the test leads on each of the pins of the male
connector. If there is no voltage, look for a blown
fuse, broken wires, or corrosion in the vehicle
wiring harness. Check that a good ground path
exists.
2. Check the thermostat and heater operation. Turn
off the ignition switch and cool the end cover as-
sembly to below 40°F (4°C). Using an ohmmeter,
check the resistance between the electrical pins
in the female connector. The resistance should
be 1.5 to 3.0 ohms for the 12-volt heater assem-
bly, and 6.8 to 9.0 ohms for the 24-volt heater
assembly.
NOTE: Some early models of the AD–9 will
have resistance readings of 1.0 to 2.5 ohms for
the 12-volt heater assembly, and 4.8 to 7.2
ohms for the 24-volt heater assembly. If the re-
sistance is higher than this, replace the purge-
valve housing assembly, which includes the
heater and thermostat assembly.
3. Warm the end cover assembly to over 90°F
(32°C) and again check the resistance. It should
exceed 1000 ohms. If it does, the thermostat and
heater assembly is operating properly. If it
doesn’t, replace the purge-valve housing assem-
bly, which includes the heater and thermostat
assembly.
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
Air dryer purge valve is leaking With the compressor loaded, apply a soap solution on the purge valve
excessively. exhaust to test for excessive leakage. Repair the purge valve as needed.
The governor is inoperative. Check the governor for proper cut-in and cut-out pressures, and excessive
leakage in both positions. Repair or replace as needed.
Purge control line is connected to the Connect the purge control line to the unloader port of the governor.
reservoir or exhaust port of the governor.
Purge valve is frozen open due to an Test the heater and thermostat, following instructions in this manual.
inoperative heater or thermostat, bad
wiring, or a blown fuse.
Inlet and outlet air connections are Reconnect the lines properly.
reversed—unable to build system
pressure.
Discharge line is kinked or blocked. See if air passes through the discharge line. Check for kinks, bends, or
excessive carbon deposits.
There are excessive bends in the Discharge line should be constantly sloping from the compressor to the air
discharge line. Water is collecting and dryer with as few bends as possible.
freezing.
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
System is leaking excessively. Test for excessive leakage. Eliminate leaks, as needed. Allowable leakage is
as follows:
• Single Vehicle—1 psi/min (7 kPa/min) per service reservoir
• Tractor/Trailer—3 psi/min (21 kPa/min) per service reservoir
Purge valve stays open; supply air leaks Replace the purge valve assembly O-rings.
to control side.
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (May Look Like Whitish Liquid,
Paste, or Small Beads); or, Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste,
or small beads) or Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Possible Cause Remedy
This problem usually occurs with one or Refer to the appropriate corrections listed previously.
more of the previous problems.
Air dryer is not securely mounted; there is Vibration should be held to a minimum. Tighten the mounting fasteners.
excessive vibration.
Cloth-covered perforated plate in the air Replace the plate or cartridge as needed. High operating temperatures may
dryer desiccant cartridge is damaged, or cause deterioration of filter cloth.Check the installation.
the cartridge was rebuilt incorrectly.
Compressor is passing excessive oil. Check for proper compressor installation; if symptoms persist, replace the
compressor.
Heater and thermostat, wiring, or a fuse is Test the heater and thermostat, following instructions in this manual.
at fault, and isn’t allowing the air dryer to
purge during cold weather.
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste,
or small beads) or Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Possible Cause Remedy
Desiccant cartridge not attached properly Check the torque and tighten if necessary. Refer to Subject 120 for
to the end cover. instructions.
Fig. 2 Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 1, Air Brake Plumbing, Two Dash Valves/Integral Bendix DRM Air Dryer (full view)
Fig. 3
Fig. 3
Fig. 2, Air Brake Plumbing, Two Dash Valves/Integral Bendix DRM Air Dryer (partial view)
Fig. 4
Fig. 2
Fig. 3, Air Brake Plumbing, Two Dash Valves/Integral Bendix DRM Air Dryer (partial view)
A A
2
B B
3
C C
7 4
D D
5
E E
02/02/2000 6 f430150
A. Auxiliary Air Pressure Circuit
B. Primary Air Pressure Circuit
C. Application Air Pressure Circuit
D. Parking Brake Air Pressure Circuit
E. Secondary Air Pressure Circuit
1. Fan Pressure Switch
2. Primary Low Air Warning Pressure Switch
3. Cruise Control Cutout Pressure Switch
4. Engine Idle Timer Pressure Switch
5. Daytime Running Lights Pressure Switch
6. Secondary Low Air Warning Pressure Switch
7. Stop Light Pressure Switch
Fig. 7 Fig. 8
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
04/04/2000 Ref. Dia. D12−15087 Chg. Ltr. H f422111
Fig. 5, Air Brake Plumbing, Two Dash Valves/Conventional Air Dryer (full view)
Fig. 7
Fig. 6, Air Brake Plumbing, Two Dash Valves/Conventional Air Dryer (partial view)
Fig. 4
Fig. 6 Fig. 8
Fig. 7, Air Brake Plumbing, Two Dash Valves/Conventional Air Dryer (partial view)
Fig. 7
Fig. 8, Air Brake Plumbing, Two Dash Valves/Conventional Air Dryer (partial view)
General Information nal check valve that feeds the secondary reservoir
from the supply reservoir.
NOTE: Vehicles with a Bendix Dryer Reservoir The secondary reservoir supplies air to a pressure
Module (DRM) have a separate primary reser- protection valve. This valve prevents complete loss
voir. The secondary reservoir and purge reser- of secondary air pressure if there is an air leak in
voir are part of the DRM. See Section 42.03 for any non-brake accessory.
more information on the DRM. All air reservoirs are equipped with drain valves to
Air reservoirs serve two main purposes: eject the water and oil emulsion from the tanks.
• They store compressed air used to apply the
brakes and operate other air-powered devices,
such as window lifts, windshield wipers, and
seats.
• They provide a place where air, heated during
compression, can cool and water vapor can
condense into a liquid. Also, air reservoirs col-
lect small amounts of oil passed by the com-
pressor.
Each vehicle is equipped with three or more air res-
ervoirs, depending on the number of rear axles. On
all vehicles, each reservoir is identified as one of
three types: supply, primary, or secondary.
A supply reservoir receives compressed air from an
air dryer or directly from the compressor. Also re-
ferred to as the wet tank, its functions are to collect
most of the water and oil condensate from the air,
and to supply air to the other reservoirs. With a prop-
erly functioning air dryer, there should be little or no
water or oil in any reservoir.
At the outlet port of the supply reservoir (the port
leading to the primary reservoir) is a safety valve that
protects the air system against excessive air pres-
sure build-up. The supply reservoir is usually
mounted on the left-hand frame rail.
Primary reservoirs are air sources for the brakes on
the rear axles. One or more primary reservoirs are
installed on a vehicle, depending on the number of
rear axles and the air system configuration. Each
reservoir is equipped with an inline check valve. The
main primary reservoir is usually mounted on the
right-hand frame rail.
A secondary reservoir is the air source for the front
axle brakes. It is usually mounted on the left-hand
frame rail. The secondary reservoir is usually the aft
compartment of the internally isolated air tank
mounted on the left-hand frame rail. The forward
compartment is the supply reservoir. There is in inter-
Tests
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with an auto-
matic moisture-ejection valve, see Sec-
tion 42.19, Subject 110, for leak testing.
Be sure the air system is fully charged. Using a soap
solution or leak detector, check for leaks on the out-
side surfaces of the reservoirs and drain valves. No
leakage is permitted.
If leaks exist at the drain valve, note if they occur at
the joint of the valve and coupler, or through the
valve body. Proceed to Subject 110.
If leaks occur on the surfaces of the air reservoir,
replace the tank. See Subject 120 for instructions.
Replacement
2
NOTE: For replacement of the Bendix Dryer
Reservoir Module (DRM), see Section 42.03.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the park-
ing brake, and shut down the engine. Chock the 1
rear tires.
2. Drain the air system. For instructions, see Chap-
ter 11 in the Columbia Driver’s Manual.
NOTE: If access is limited, reverse the order of
the next two steps and remove the air lines, 3
couplers, and valves after removing the reser-
voir from its mount. 4
6. Connect all air lines, couplers, and valves to the Fig. 2, Air Reservoir, Frame Rail Mounting
new reservoir, removing the caps as each com-
ponent is installed. Tighten the connections as
instructed in Section 41.07, Subject 100.
7. Remove the chocks from the tires.
10. Remove the chocks from the tires. 6. Remove the chocks from the tires.
10/14/2005 f130129
1. Check Valve
2. Tank Shell (cut away)
5
3
1 1
2 6 2
4
12/06/2005 f130130
1. Existing Plumbing 3. Check Valve 5. 1/2-Inch Air Line
2. T-Fitting 4. 45-Degree Elbow 6. Brass Fitting
Fig. 5, Check Valve Bypass
3
CAUTION 4
09/27/94 f420002a
If the tubing is bent to a radius smaller than the 1. Nylon Tube 4. Brass Insert
specified minimum bend radius, it may kink, and 2. Nut 5. Body
3. Sleeve
shut off normal airflow to the component.
1. Cut the end of the tubing smooth and square. Fig. 2, Nylon Tube Fitting
2 04/24/2000 f420003a
QUICK-CONNECT FITTINGS
NOTE: If damaged, quick-connect fittings must
be replaced as an assembly.
1. Push in on the fitting collar to release the air line.
Pull the line out of the fitting. See Fig. 4.
2. Push the air line all the way into the fitting. Pull
the collar away from the fitting to secure the air
line. Check and make sure that the air line is
seated in the fitting.
General Description causes the trailer supply valve to trip and exhaust,
thus applying both the tractor and the trailer parking
The dash-mounted MV-3 control module is a two- brakes as required by federal regulations. See
Fig. 2. The trailer parking brakes may be indepen-
button, push-pull control valve housed in a single
body, which includes a dual circuit supply valve and dently released by pushing only the trailer air supply
valve (red) knob in.
a check valve.
The valve body, plungers, and spools are made out
of a nonmetallic, noncorrosive material. All air con-
nections are at the back of the valve. See Fig. 1. RED YEL
The MV-3 module has several functions: tractor pro-
tection; trailer service air control; system park; trailer
park only; trailer charge with tractor spring brakes
applied (tractor park only); and supply reservoir se-
A B
lection.
3 7
2
09/26/94 f420332a
RED YEL
A B
A B
09/26/94 f420333a
System Park
With both knobs pushed in, the parking brakes on
A B both the tractor and the trailer may be actuated by
pulling the yellow (parking brake) knob out. This ex-
hausts the air from the tractor parking brakes and
simultaneously causes the red (trailer air supply)
knob to pop out, applying the trailer parking brakes
(this complies with federal regulations that one con-
trol must apply all the parking brakes on the vehicle).
See Fig. 2.
09/26/94 f420720a
Trailer Charge
A. Trailer Brakes B. Tractor Brakes
Released Released If both valves are out, parking the combination ve-
hicle, and it is desired to recharge the trailer (leaving
Fig. 4, Trailer and Tractor Brakes Released (both only the tractor parking brakes applied), the red knob
control knobs pushed in) may be pushed in, repressurizing the trailer supply
line. This mode might also be used to park a combi-
Actuation of Trailer Park or nation vehicle with air-actuated emergency brakes on
the trailer to provide demonstrated parking capability
Emergency Brakes with the tractor spring brakes only. See Fig. 3.
To actuate the trailer parking brakes only, the red
knob is pulled out, exhausting the trailer supply line. Automatic Applications
The trailer parking brakes are now applied, either by
emergency air or parking brakes, depending on the If air pressure drops to 20 to 45 psi (138 to 310 kPa)
in both the primary and the secondary systems, the
Installation
1. Connect the air lines to the proper ports. The
color of the air lines should match the colored
collar at the valve fitting.
2. Align the valve in the dash and install the four
screws and washers into the corners of the cover
09/19/95 f421382
plate.
NOTE: Components have been removed from the auxil-
iary instrument panel for clarity. 3. Attach the red and yellow knobs onto the
threaded stems of the spools, making sure that
Fig. 1, MV-3 Control Valve Mounting they are oriented correctly as noted during re-
moval.
WARNING 4. Leak test the fittings, following the instructions
under Subject 100.
Wear eye protection when draining the air system
or loosening an air line because dirt or sludge 5. Install the auxiliary instrument panel, right-hand
could fly out at high speeds. Don’t direct the air- trim cap, and the radio and heater/air conditioner
streams at anyone. Don’t disconnect pressurized trim plate assembly.
hoses, since they may whip as air escapes. Fail-
6. Remove the chocks.
ure to take all necessary precautions could result
in personal injury.
3
4
12
13
12
14
13
15
16 14
17
15
18 16
5 17
6 18
7
19 11
20 8
21 9
19
10 20
21
25 26
24
23
22
10/05/94 f420470a
1. Red Knob 10. Check Valve 19. Exhuast Seal, Beveled
2. Yellow Knob 11. O-Ring 20. O-Ring
3. Screw 12. Guide Cap 21. Spring
4. Cover Plate 13. O-Ring 22. Retaining Ring
5. Cap 14. Guide Spool 23. Cap and Dual Circuit Valve
6. O-Ring 15. O-Ring Assembly
7. Tripper Piston 16. O-Ring 24. O-Ring
8. Spring, Large Diameter 17. O-Ring 25. O-Ring
9. Spring, Small Diameter 18. Plunger 26. O-Ring
1. Remove the six screws from the cover plate and 2. Remove the cap and O-ring from the bore of the
carefully remove the cover plate from the valve. tripper valve. Remove the tripper piston, large
spring, small spring, and check valve. These
parts will all fall out of the cavity of the MV–3 by
tilting the body forward. Remove the O-ring from 2. Install O-rings onto the cap and dual circuit sup-
its groove on the piston. ply valve. Then install the assembly—small diam-
eter first—into its cavity in the body.
3. Remove the two main spools from the body of
the MV–3 valve by grasping the stem and pulling 3. Install the retaining ring (Ref. 22) making sure it
firmly. Remove the spring from the bottom of is fully seated in its groove.
each spool cavity.
4. Pull the guide cap and guide spool over the
SPOOLS
threaded end of one of the plungers. Remove 1. Install the O-rings and the exhaust seal onto the
the O-ring from the guide cap and the O-ring stem of the plunger.
from the guide spool. Remove the other O-rings
and the exhaust seal from the plunger.
CAUTION
5. Repeat the previous step on the remaining spool
assembly. The exhaust seal (Ref. 19) must be installed so
that its beveled surface mates with the beveled
6. Remove the retaining ring from the cavity of the surface of the plunger.
MV–3 body that contains the dual circuit supply
valve. 2. Install the O-ring onto the guide spool and the
O-ring onto the guide cap. See Fig. 2. Place the
7. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, grasp the bar guide cap on top of the guide spool, and install
in the center of the cap and dual circuit supply the entire assembly over the threaded end of the
valve and remove the dual circuit valve assem- plunger; press down firmly until it snaps into
bly. Remove the three O-rings from the valve or place.
from the cavity of the body, if some have re-
mained there. Other than the three external 1
O-rings, don’t disassemble the piston assembly 2 3
4
further.
NOTE: If during the removal of this assembly
from the body the cap dislodges from the rest of
the valve, the remaining parts can be removed
using bent wire. The spring, piston and O-ring 5 5 5
10/27/93 f420469a
that are internal to the dual circuit valve assem-
bly are nonserviceable. 1. Inside Bevel 4. Plunger
2. Exhaust Seal 5. O-Rings
3. Mating Exhaust Seal
Cleaning and Inspection Bevel
APPLYING
The primary circuit of the brake valve is controlled by
the brake pedal and a plunger. When the brake
pedal is depressed, the plunger applies pressure on
the spring seat, rubber spring, and the primary (up-
per) piston. The downward movement of the primary
piston closes the upper exhaust valve, and then
opens the upper inlet valve, allowing high-pressure
air from port 11 to flow to low-pressure port 21.
The secondary circuit is pneumatically operated by
the pressure from the primary circuit. Primary circuit
pressure on top of the relay piston first closes the
lower exhaust valve, and then opens the lower inlet
valve, allowing high-pressure from port 12 to flow to
low-pressure port 22.
HOLDING
As air pressure builds in the primary circuit, the pres-
sure under the primary piston will match the pressure
of the rubber spring. This allows the piston to move
up enough to close the upper inlet valve, and prevent
the flow of air from the primary air tank into the brake
valve. The exhaust port remains closed.
RELEASING
When the pedal is released, the push rod releases
pressure from the spring seat, rubber spring, and the
primary (upper) piston. Air pressure builds to push
the piston up, opening the upper exhaust valve and
allowing air from the primary circuit to escape
through the exhaust port.
In the secondary circuit, the release of primary air
pressure allows air under the relay piston, pushing
the piston up and opening the lower exhaust valve.
All remaining air pressure is vented through the ex-
haust port.
1 2
3
4
5678 9
10
11
12
B
A 13
14
15
16
17
18
19
C
D
20
21
01/24/2000 24 23 22 f420043b
Operating Checks
IMPORTANT: If there is a change in the way a 4
3
vehicle brakes, or if low pressure warnings oc- 2
cur, check the operation of the air system. Al-
1
though the brake system may continue to work,
do not operate the vehicle until the braking cir-
5
cuits, including the pneumatic and mechanical
devices, have been repaired and are operating 6
normally. Always check the brake system for
proper operation after doing brake work, and 9 7
10 8
before returning the vehicle to service. 07/06/95 f421377
Check for the proper brake valve operation as fol- 1. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Front Brake Valve
lows: 2. Primary Delivery Circuit to Rear Brake Valve
3. Secondary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
1. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. 4. Primary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
2. Connect test gauges to the primary and second- 5. Primary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection Valve
6. Delivery Circuit to Trailer Hand Valve
ary delivery ports (ports 21 and 22) on the brake
7. Double Check Valve
valve. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. 8. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection
Valve
9. Primary Supply Circuit to Primary Supply Reservoir
10. Secondary Supply Circuit to Secondary Supply
Reservoir
4
3 Fig. 2, Brake Valve Plumbing Circuits (with double-
2
check valve)
1
3. Start the engine and build air pressure to 120 psi
(827 kPa).
4. Depress the pedal to several different positions;
5 check the pressure on the test gauges to ensure
6 that it varies equally and proportionately with the
7
8 movement of the brake pedal.
11/01/95 f421350
5. Fully depress the brake pedal, then release it.
1. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Front Brake Valve After a full application is released, the reading on
2. Delivery Circuit to Rear Brake Valve the test gauges should promptly fall to zero.
3. Secondary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
4. Primary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve NOTE: Pressure in the primary delivery circuit
5. Primary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection Valve will be about 2 psi (14 kPa) greater than pres-
6. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection
Valve (if not equipped with a hand valve)
sure in the secondary delivery circuit (if both
7. Primary Supply Circuit to Primary Supply Reservoir supply reservoirs are at the same pressure).
8. Secondary Supply Circuit to Secondary Supply This is normal for this valve.
Reservoir
6. Go to "Leakage Check."
Fig. 1, Brake Valve Plumbing Circuits
NOTE: When checking the delivery pressure of Leakage Check
the primary and secondary circuits, use test
1. Make and hold a pressure application of 80 psi
gauges that are accurate.
(552 kPa).
Removal (See Fig. 1) from the line. Failure to take all necessary pre-
cautions during service operations of the air
brake system can result in personal injury.
1 2
2. Drain all of the air reservoirs.
3
3. Mark the brake valve air supply and delivery
lines for assembly reference. Disconnect the air
4 lines from the brake valve, and plug them to
keep out contaminants.
4. Remove the brake valve.
11
4.1 Remove the 5/16-18 capscrews and flat-
washers that attach the brake valve and
10 9 8 6 5 mounting adaptor to the front cab mount
7 plate.
4.2 Remove the 5/16-18 locknuts and wash-
ers that attach the brake valve to the
mounting adaptor.
4.3 Remove the plunger from the mounting
adaptor. Wipe off the old grease from the
plunger and adaptor.
5. Note the locations and positions of the double
check valve (if equipped), then remove them
from the brake valve. Clean off the dirt and old
sealant from the threads of the valve and el-
bows.
11/02/95 f421351
1. Brake Valve Installation (See Fig. 1)
2. Mounting Plate Adaptor
3. Gasket
4. Roll Pin
WARNING
5. Brake Pedal Assembly
6. Roller
When applying sealant, make sure that excess
7. Roller Pivot Pin sealant doesn’t get inside either the male or the
8. Plunger female fittings. Loose foreign material inside the
9. Shaft Pivot Pin air plumbing may clog a valve, causing a loss of
10. 5/16–18 Capscrew and Flatwasher brake control, which could result in personal in-
11. 5/16–18 Locknut and Washer jury.
Fig. 1, Brake Valve Mounting 1. If equipped with a hand brake valve, apply a
1. Chock the tires, then tilt the hood. For instruc- small quantity of Loctite® Pipe Sealant (with Te-
tions, refer to the vehicle driver’s manual. flon® 59241), or an equivalent sealant, to the
male threads of each of the double check valves
and the elbows.
WARNING
Install the double check valves and elbows in the
When draining the air system, don’t look into the ports of the brake valve. Tighten each valve
air lines/ports or direct them toward another per- finger-tight, then tighten them one additional turn
son, because dirt or sludge particles may be in with a wrench. As needed, further tighten them
the airstream. Do not disconnect pressurized until they are properly positioned.
hoses because they may whip as air escapes
Disassembly (See Fig. 1) 13. Remove the small and large O-rings from the
relay piston.
1. Remove the valve from the vehicle. For instruc- 14. Remove the retaining ring. Remove the upper
tions, see Subject 110. inlet and exhaust valve assembly.
2. Remove the screw that attaches the exhaust dia-
phragm and washer to the exhaust cover. Cleaning and Inspecting
3. Remove the four screws that attach the exhaust
Wash all metal parts in mineral spirits and dry them
cover to the lower valve body.
thoroughly with compressed air. Inspect the valve
4. Remove the lower inlet and exhaust valve as- seat surfaces of the pistons and the valve housings
sembly. for conditions that could cause leakage. Inspect air
line fittings for corrosion, and replace corroded fit-
5. Remove the four hexhead capscrews and wash- tings.
ers that attach the lower and upper valve bodies.
Separate the valve bodies.
6. Remove the rubber seal ring from the lower
Assembly (See Fig. 1)
valve body.
NOTE: Keep the work area, tools, and brake
7. Apply thumb pressure to the primary piston, then valve parts clean during assembly.
lift out and up on the three lock tabs of the pri-
1. Using Dow Corning 55-M pneumatic grease, or
mary piston retainer.
equivalent, lightly grease all the new O-rings,
O-ring grooves, piston bores, and all sliding sur-
WARNING faces.
The locknut and spring seat are used to restrain 2. Place the upper inlet and exhaust assembly in
the primary piston return spring, stem spring, the upper body, and secure the assembly with
and the relay piston spring. The combined force the retaining ring. Make sure that the retaining
of these springs is about 50 pounds (220 N). ring is seated in its groove.
When removing these springs, use care to pre- 3. Install the large and small O-rings on the relay
vent them from flying out and possibly causing piston.
personal injury. Manually or mechanically hold
down these springs when removing the locknut. 4. Install the primary piston O-ring in the piston
O-ring groove.
8. Using a 3/8-inch wrench, hold the locknut on the
threaded end of the primary piston stem. Insert a 5. Install the rubber spring, concave side down, in
screwdriver in the exhaust passage through the the primary piston. Place the spring seat, flat
center of the valve, and engage the slotted head side up, over the rubber spring.
of the stem. 6. Install the spring seat nut and turn the nut clock-
9. Using the screwdriver to keep the stem from wise until the top surface of the spring seat is
turning, remove the locknut, spring seat, and the even with the top surface of the piston. Set this
stem spring. assembly aside.
10. Being careful to avoid damaging the valve seats, 7. Place the relay piston spring, if equipped, in the
remove the relay piston, relay piston spring, and concave portion of the relay piston. Install the
the primary piston and primary piston return relay piston through the upper inlet and exhaust
spring. assembly, and into the underside of the upper
valve body.
11. Remove the small washer from the cavity in the
lower side of the primary piston. 8. Place a screwdriver (blade up) in a vise. Place
the primary piston stem in the relay piston. Posi-
12. Turn the spring seat nut counterclockwise, and tion the upper valve body over the screwdriver
separate the spring seat nut, spring seat, and the
rubber spring. Remove the primary piston O-ring.
General Information (See Fig. 1) slack adjuster internal gear to the camshaft, so the
camshaft turns when the slack adjuster moves.
When the brakes are applied, the brake chamber
push rod moves outward forcing the slack adjuster
and camshaft to rotate. This movement forces the
brake shoes against the drum.
4
5 The brakes are adjusted when the slack adjuster
senses an increase in the lining-to-drum clearance.
6 The slack adjuster’s internal worm shaft and ratchet
shorten excessive lining-to-drum clearance. This pro-
7 vides maximum leverage for the brake chamber push
3 rod. The automatic slack adjuster adjusts the brakes
8 at the beginning of the brake application.
2 9
10
10/27/93 f420653a
1. 7/16-Inch Adjusting 6. Clevis
Hexnut 7. 1/2-Inch Clevis Pin
2. Grease Fitting 8. 1/4-Inch Clevis Pin
3. Boot 9. Grease Relief
4. Link Opening
5. Brake Chamber Push 10. Slack Adjuster Spline
Rod
1
2 6
3
09/14/2001 f430274
1. Brake Chamber Pushrod (threaded)
2. Jam Nut
4 3. Threaded Clevis
4. Cotter Pins and Clevis Pins
5. Link
6. Adjusting Hexnut
4. Install the clevis pins and cotter pins. 5.3 Check that the 1/4-inch pin is visible in the
notched area of the gauge. If the pin is
WARNING not in the right location, back off the slack
adjuster and readjust the pushrod length,
Manually adjusting an automatic slack adjuster to then repeat this step.
bring the pushrod stroke within legal limits is NOTE: Make sure there is clearance between
likely masking a mechanical problem. Adjustment
the slack adjuster and other vehicle components
is not repairing. Before adjusting an automatic
slack adjuster, troubleshoot the foundation brake when the brakes are applied and the pushrod
system and inspect it for worn or damaged com- travels its maximum stroke.
ponents. Improperly maintaining the vehicle brak- 6. Set the initial free-stroke.
ing system may lead to brake failure, resulting in
property damage, personal injury, or death. 6.1 Turn the adjusting hexnut clockwise until
the brake linings contact the drum.
5. If the pushrod has a threaded clevis, use the
gauge supplied with the new slack adjuster to 6.2 Turn the adjusting hexnut counterclock-
check the adjustment of the clevis. See Fig. 3. wise one-half turn. There should be about
30 lbf·ft (41 N·m) resistance, and a ratch-
eting sound will be heard.
7. Measure the brake chamber applied stroke.
7.1 With the brakes fully released, use a ruler
to measure the distance from the bottom
of the brake chamber to the center of the
A large clevis pin. See Fig. 4.
B
A
05/15/2008 f420654a
A. Adjust the clevis in or out to position the 1/4-inch
clevis pin within the notched area of the gauge.
1. Installation Gauge
pin. See Fig. 4. The difference between 10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
the measurements is the brake chamber 11. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation,
stroke.
as follows.
7.3 The brake chamber stroke must be within 11.1 Apply and release the brakes several
the range shown in Table 1. If it is not,
times to check for correct operation of the
check the foundation brakes for problems slack adjusters.
such as worn cams, bushings, pins and
rollers, or broken springs. Repair or re- 11.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
place as needed. For instructions, refer to correct parts replacement and full vehicle
the applicable brake section in this group. control.
Then, repeat the two previous steps.
11.3 Immediately after doing the above stops,
8. If a rear axle slack adjuster was installed, manu- check the drum temperatures. Any drums
ally uncage the parking brake. Refer to the appli- that are significantly cooler than the others
cable brake chamber section in this group for show a lack of braking effort on those
instructions. wheels.
9. Apply the parking brakes.
Table 2
Table 3
General Description
The Haldex (SAB) automatic slack adjuster serves
two main functions:
• As a lever, it converts the straight-line force of
the air brake chamber pushrod to torque on 1
the brake camshaft. Rotation of the camshaft
spreads the brake shoes out against the brake 8
drum, applying the brakes. 7
• As an adjuster, it maintains cam brake cham-
ber pushrod stroke and lining-to-drum clear-
ance automatically during normal use.
2
Principles of Operation 3
When the brakes are applied, the slack adjuster ro- 4
tates and moves the shoes into contact with the 6
drum. The clearance notch ( Fig. 1) corresponds to
the normal lining-to-drum clearance. Different 5
notches are available to meet the requirements of
various vehicles and brake duty cycles. As the brake
application continues, the rack moves upward and 04/26/2000 f420074b
rotates the one-way clutch which slips in this direc- 1. Clutch Assembly
tion. 2. Enclosed Rack
As the brake torque increases, the coil-spring load is 3. Installation Indicator (aligned with indicator notch)
overcome and the wormshaft is displaced axially, re- 4. Clearance Notch
5. Control Arm Anchor Bracket (design varies
leasing the cone clutch. depending on the axle)
When the brake begins its return stroke, the coil 6. Worm Wheel
spring load returns to normal and the cone clutch is 7. Coil Spring
again engaged. The rack is pulled back to its original 8. Wormshaft
position in the notch. Any additional travel brought Fig. 1, Haldex Slack Adjuster
about by brake lining wear causes the rack to turn
the locked one-way clutch and rotates the wormshaft
through the locked cone clutch. The wormshaft then
rotates the worm wheel and camshaft, adjusting the
brakes.
2 1
3
1
05/01/2000 f420472b
2
3
A. Use only the adjusting hexnut to align the slack A
adjuster with the pushrod clevis. 05/01/2000 f420473b
B. Turn the adjusting hexnut clockwise.
NOTE: The installation indicator must be aligned with
1. Direction of Applied Stroke the indicator notch.
2. Box Wrench, 7/16 inch A. Rotate the control arm counterclockwise until it
3. Adjusting Hexnut stops.
Never hammer the control arm. Hammering may making sure the control arm does not
damage the slack adjuster or camshaft splines. move from its position.
7. Rotate the control arm away from the adjusting 8.2 Tighten the fastener at the brake chamber
hexnut toward the brake chamber until it comes mounting stud according to the brake
to a definite internal stop. Make sure the installa- chamber manufacturer’s specifications.
tion indicator is in the center of the indicator
9. Adjust the brakes. See "Brake Adjustment".
notch on the slack adjuster. See Fig. 3.
IMPORTANT: If the installation indicator is not Brake Adjustment
aligned with the indicator notch, the brakes will
be too tight. NOTE: A properly working self-adjusting slack
NOTE: The anchor bracket and slack adjuster adjuster does not require manual adjustment
housing design will vary, depending on the axle. while in service.
The anchor bracket mounting location is deter-
mined by the length of the control arm. WARNING
8. Install the control-arm anchor bracket, as follows. Manually adjusting an automatic slack adjuster to
See Fig. 1. bring the pushrod stroke within legal limits is
8.1 Tighten the anchor bracket fastener at the likely masking a mechanical problem. Adjustment
control arm 10 to 15 lbf·ft (14 to 20 N·m), is not repairing. Before adjusting an automatic
slack adjuster, troubleshoot the foundation brake
system and inspect it for worn or damaged com- NOTE: The location of the measurements is the
ponents. Improperly maintaining the vehicle brak- same for both strokes but the applied stroke is
ing system may lead to brake failure, resulting in measured with the brakes applied, while a lever
property damage, personal injury, or death. is used to manually move the slack adjuster to
1. Adjust the brake lining clearance by manually measure the free stroke.
turning the adjusting hexnut clockwise until the
5. Measure the free stroke, as follows. The free
brake lining contacts the brake drum, then back
stroke is the distance the slack adjuster has to
off the hexnut counterclockwise 1/2 turn. You will
travel to move the brake shoes against the drum.
hear a ratcheting sound.
5.1 With the brakes released, measure the
IMPORTANT: Incorrect installation can cause
distance from the bottom of the brake
dragging brakes. chamber to the far side of the clevis-pin
2. Make sure the brakes are still fully released, then hole. Record the exact distance as mea-
check the position of the installation indicator on surement A.
the control arm. It must be within the indicator
5.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster
notch on the slack adjuster.
until the brake shoes contact the drum.
If the indicator is out of position, loosen the con- Measure the distance from the bottom of
trol arm fasteners and repeat the control-arm ad- the brake chamber to the far side of the
justment procedure. Then, tighten the bracket clevis-pin hole. Record the exact distance
fasteners. as measurement B.
5.3 Subtract measurement A from measure-
WARNING ment B to determine the free stroke. For
new brake installations, the free stroke
Install and lock a new cotter pin in the clevis pin. should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch (16 to 19 mm).
Failure to do so could allow the pushrod to dis- For in-service brakes, the free stroke
engage from the slack adjuster, causing a loss of should be 1/2 to 5/8 inch (13 to 16 mm). If
braking ability that could result in personal injury it is not in this range, refer to Trouble-
and property damage. shooting 300.
3. Install and lock a new cotter pin in the clevis pin. 6. Measure the applied stroke, as follows.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the air system has at 6.1 With the brakes released (pushrod fully
least 100 psi prior to uncaging the brake cham- retracted), measure the distance from the
ber. This will aid in the uncaging of the parking bottom of the brake chamber to the far
brake since the parking brake should be fully side of the clevis-pin hole. See Fig. 4.
released. Record the exact distance as measure-
ment A.
4. If a rear-axle slack adjuster was installed, manu-
ally uncage the parking brake. For instructions, 6.2 Apply and hold an 80 psi (551 kPa) brake
refer to the applicable brake chamber section in application. Measure the distance from the
this group. bottom of the brake chamber to the far
side of the clevis-pin hole. Record the
WARNING exact distance as measurement B.
6.3 Subtract measurement A from measure-
Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
ment B to determine the applied stroke.
been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
Compare this value to the value in
To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
Table 1.
ability, which could cause personal injury or
death, and property damage. 6.4 If the stroke varies or is greater than the
IMPORTANT: To check the brake adjustment, maximum allowed length, refer to
Troubleshooting 300.
measure both the applied and free strokes.
7. Apply the parking brakes.
01/22/2008 f420757b
NOTE: Measurements are from the bottom of the brake
chamber to the far side of the clevis-pin hole.
A. Measurement with brakes released.
B. Measurement with brakes applied at 80 psi (551
kPa).
2 3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
29 16
17
18
28 19
27 20
21
26 22
25 24 23
06/14/2000 f422134
1. Brake Air Chamber 11. Boot 20. Worm Retaining Snap Ring
2. Brake Chamber pushrod 12. Piston Retaining Ring 21. Worm Seal
3. Clevis Jam Nut 13. Boot Retaining Clamp 22. Manual Adjusting Nut
4. Quick-Connect Collar (if 14. Actuator Piston 23. Gear-to-Body Seal
equipped) 15. Roller (Pin) 24. Camshaft Splines
5. Clevis 16. Actuator (Adjusting Sleeve) 25. Gear Retaining Ring
6. Clevis Pin (large) 17. Pull-Pawl Assembly (shown 90 26. Grease Fitting (if equipped)
7. Retainer Clip (large) degrees out of position) 27. Gear Thrustwasher
8. Retainer Clip (small) 18. Gasket 28. Gear
9. Clevis Pin (small) 19. Worm 29. Slack Adjuster Housing
10. Actuator Rod
Removal Installation
1. With the vehicle parked on a level surface, set NOTE: For brake chambers that have pushrods
the parking brakes, and shut down the engine. with threaded clevises, measure the pushrod
Chock the tires. length before installing the new slack adjuster.
With the brakes fully released, and no air pres-
WARNING sure to the chamber, check the dimension be-
tween the chamber face and the centerline of
Manually cage each parking brake chamber
the 1/2 inch clevis pin hole. It should be 2.25
power spring in the release (no application) posi-
tion before continuing. Loss of brake chamber air inches (57 mm) for long stroke chambers, and
pressure will cause sudden application of the 2.75 inches (70 mm) for standard stroke cham-
parking brakes, which could result in personal bers.
injury. 1. Inspect the parts and prepare the slack adjuster
2. If the rear slack adjusters will be removed, re- for installation.
lease the parking brakes, then cage the power 2. Check the brake camshaft splines for wear or
spring of the parking brake chamber. corrosion.
3. Remove the retainer clips from the large and IMPORTANT: The following lubricants provide
small clevis pins. Remove the clevis pins. See corrosion protection. Do not mix them with other
Fig. 1.
types of lubricants.
CAUTION 3. Coat the camshaft splines and the splines of the
slack adjuster gear with Meritor 0-637, Meritor
Disengage the pull-pawl before turning the 0-695 (LX500 and MX500 only), Southwest SA
manual adjusting nut. Failure to do so could 8249496, or an equivalent.
damage the pull-pawl teeth. The brake clearance 4. Apply the service brake several times. Make sure
will not automatically adjust if the pull-pawl is the return spring retracts the pushrod quickly and
damaged. completely. Replace the return spring or brake
4. Using a screwdriver or an equivalent tool, pry the chamber, if needed.
pawl button out about 1/32 inch (0.8 mm). See 5. Slide the spacing washer(s) on the camshaft.
Fig. 2.
On LX500 and MX500, install the slack adjuster
Wedge the tool in place. Pull-pawls are spring- seal with the lip facing the brake spider.
loaded; when the tool is removed, the pull-pawl
will engage the teeth automatically. 6. If reinstalling the same slack adjuster:
5. Using a wrench, manually turn the square adjust- 6.1 Slide the slack adjuster on the camshaft,
ing nut clockwise to move the slack adjuster with the actuator rod on the side opposite
away from the clevis. See Fig. 3. the brake chamber.
6. Remove the snap ring, washer(s), and seal (if 6.2 On LX500 and MX500, install the orange
equipped) that secure the slack adjuster in place slack adjuster seal on the camshaft. The
on the brake camshaft; save them for later instal- lip on the seal must face the snap ring.
lation.
6.3 Install the outer washer(s) and snap ring
7. Remove the slack adjuster from the camshaft. on the camshaft.
8. Note the location and number of any remaining
spacing washers on the camshaft. Remove the CAUTION
spacers and seal (LX500 and MX500 series
only), and save them for later installation. Disengage the pull-pawl before turning the
manual adjusting nut. Failure to do so could
2 3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
29 16
17
18
28 19
27 20
21
26 22
25 24 23
06/14/2000 f422134
1. Brake Air Chamber 11. Boot 20. Worm Retaining Snap Ring
2. Brake Chamber Pushrod 12. Piston Retaining Ring 21. Worm Seal
3. Clevis Jam Nut 13. Boot Retaining Clamp 22. Manual Adjusting Nut
4. Quick-Connect Collar (if 14. Actuator Piston 23. Gear-to-Body Seal
equipped) 15. Roller (Pin) 24. Camshaft Splines
5. Clevis 16. Actuator (Adjusting Sleeve) 25. Gear Retaining Ring
6. Clevis Pin (large) 17. Pull-Pawl Assembly (shown 90 26. Grease Fitting (if equipped)
7. Retainer Clip (large) degrees out of position) 27. Gear Thrustwasher
8. Retainer Clip (small) 18. Gasket 28. Gear
9. Clevis Pin (small) 19. Worm 29. Slack Adjuster Housing
10. Actuator Rod
06/19/2007 f422462
A. Insert a screwdriver here to pry the pull-pawl button
out about 1/32 inch (0.8 mm).
09/26/94 f420179a
A. Turning the adjusting nut counterclockwise, align the
large holes in the slack adjuster and clevis.
09/26/94 B f420178a 1
A. Using a template, measure the slack adjuster arm
length.
B. Camshaft Center
IMPORTANT: The pushrod must be installed 10. If it was loosened, tighten the clevis jam nut to
in the clevis at least 1/2 inch (13 mm) and the following values.
not extend beyond it more than 1/8-inch (3- • For 1/2–20 threads, tighten the clevis jam
mm). nut 20 to 30 lbf·ft (27 to 41 N·m).
7.12 Make sure there is at least 1/2 inch (13 • For 5/8–18 threads, tighten the jam nut 25
mm) of thread engagement between the to 50 lbf·ft (34 to 68 N·m).
clevis and the pushrod. Also, check that
11. Lube the slack adjuster through the grease fitting
the pushrod does not extend through the
until the lubricant is forced out through the pawl
clevis more than 1/8-inch (3-mm). See
slot or through the gear splines around the in-
Fig. 7.
board snap ring.
If necessary, cut the pushrod, install a 12. Adjust the brakes. See "Brake Adjustment"
new pushrod, or install a new brake cham- below.
ber.
7.13 Temporarily insert the small clevis pin Brake Adjustment
through the template, clevis, and actuator
rod to make sure the alignment is correct. NOTE: A properly working self-adjusting slack
Repeat the adjustment, if necessary.
adjuster does not require manual adjustment
When the alignment is correct, remove
both clevis pins and the template. while in service.
A WARNING
Manually adjusting an automatic slack adjuster to
bring the pushrod stroke within legal limits is
likely masking a mechanical problem. Adjustment
is not repairing. Before adjusting an automatic
slack adjuster, troubleshoot the foundation brake
system and inspect it for worn or damaged com-
ponents. Improperly maintaining the vehicle brak-
B ing system may lead to brake failure, resulting in
property damage, personal injury, or death.
1. If a rear axle slack adjuster was installed, manu-
ally uncage the parking brake.
2. Fully release the brakes (the air chamber push-
rod must be fully retracted).
09/27/94 f420898a
CAUTION
A. Minimum 1/2 inch (13 mm).
B. Maximum 1/8 inch (3 mm). Before turning the manual adjusting nut on the
slack adjuster, disengage the pull-pawl. Failure to
Fig. 7, Check Pushrod Engagement do so could damage the pull-pawl teeth. A dam-
aged pull-pawl will not allow the slack adjuster to
8. Apply antiseize compound to the two clevis pins. automatically adjust the brake clearance.
9. Insert both clevis pins with their pinheads on the 3. Using a screwdriver, pry the pull-pawl button out
inboard side of the slack adjuster. Be sure the at least 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) to disengage the pull-
small clevis pin is inserted through the hole in pawl teeth from the slack adjuster actuator. See
the actuator rod. Install new retaining clips to se- Fig. 2. Wedge the screwdriver in place. The pull-
cure the clevis pins. pawl will need to be disengaged until the brake
adjustment is complete.
10/20/93 f420182a
NOTE: For either free-stroke or applied chamber stroke,
subtract measurement A from B.
A. Measurement with the brakes released.
B. Measurement with the brakes applied by manual
lever (free-stroke) or pressurized brake application
A B (applied chamber stroke).
CAUTION WARNING
The adjusted applied chamber stroke should be Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
as short as possible but not so short that the been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
free-stroke is too short and the linings drag. If To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
the linings drag, the brakes could be damaged. ability, which could cause personal injury or
death, and property damage.
6.5 The applied chamber stroke must not ex-
ceed the maximum value specified in 8. In a safe area, check for proper brake operation
Table 1. before you put the vehicle in service, as follows.
If the applied chamber stroke is incorrect, 8.1 Apply and release the brakes several
turn the adjusting nut 1/8-turn counter- times to check for air leaks and proper
clockwise to shorten the stroke, or 1/8-turn operation of the slack adjusters.
clockwise to lengthen it. See Fig. 8. Mea- 8.2 Perform six low-speed stops to ensure
sure the applied stroke again and readjust proper parts replacement and full vehicle
it until it is correct. control.
6.6 If the slack adjuster is not maintaining the 8.3 Immediately after doing the above stops,
correct applied chamber stroke, check the check the drum temperatures. Any drums
condition of the foundation brakes. See that are significantly cooler than others
Section 42.01, Subject 150. show a lack of braking effort on those
7. Remove the screwdriver from the pull-pawl as- wheels.
sembly. This will engage the pull-pawl with the
actuator.
DANGER 1
5
A
6
8
7
02/22/2000 f422108
Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring.
1. End Cover Cap
2. Factory Sealed Parking Brake Clamp Ring
3. Release Bolt Storage Pocket
4. Service Brake Clamp Ring
5. Hardened Flatwasher
6. Prevailing Torque Locknut
7. Clevis Assembly
8. Piston Rod
9. Spring Brake Air Inlet
02/22/2000 f421352
10. Park Brake Air Inlet
A. Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring. 11. External Breather Tube (optional)
1. Model TR Brake Chamber
Fig. 2, Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber
Fig. 1, Brake Chamber
In the parking/emergency brake section, the flange
IMPORTANT: On MGM "TR" Series chambers, case and the head contain a return spring, a push
the parking/emergency brake section is factory rod assembly, a parking (spring) brake diaphragm, a
sealed (no clamp ring) and is a non-serviceable piston, a power spring, and a detachable release
unit. bolt.
All MGM brake chambers are mounted to brackets
General Description on the axle using prevailing torque locknuts and
hardened flatwashers.
MGM "TR" Series tandem cam brake chamber con- MGM "TR" Series chambers may be equipped with
sists of a service brake section and a parking/ an external breather tube that protects the parking
emergency spring brake section. See Fig. 2. The brake chamber from contaminants. These chambers
service brake section is the smaller section near the are called Model "TR-T" chambers. See Fig. 2.
clevis assembly.
In the service brake section, the flange case and
non-pressure chamber contain a service return
spring, piston rod assembly, and service brake dia-
phragm.
Principles of Operation
SERVICE BRAKES
As the brake pedal is depressed, compressed air
enters the service brake chamber through a port. Air
pressure acts upon a diaphragm, which forces the
piston rod toward the non-pressure chamber, apply-
ing a straight-line force to the slack adjuster, which
converts it to a rotational force. This in turn rotates
the camshaft and applies the brakes.
Then, when the brake pedal is released, air is ex-
hausted from the service brake chamber, and the
return spring allows the diaphragm, piston rod, and
slack adjuster to return to their normal positions, re-
leasing the brakes.
PARKING/EMERGENCY
BRAKES
During parking brake release, compressed air enters
the parking brake chamber and acts upon the dia-
phragm and piston, fully compressing the power
spring. When the power spring is compressed, the
parking brakes are released; the service brakes can
then be operated at the brake pedal.
During parking brake application, air is exhausted
from the parking brake chamber. The power spring
releases, forcing the piston and parking brake dia-
phragm toward the flange case. The resulting motion
on the push rod forces the service brake diaphragm
and piston rod outward, applying the brakes.
DANGER
Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed
clamp ring (see Fig. 1), for any purpose, at any
time. The parking/emergency brake section is not
intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death
may result from the sudden release of the power
spring.
A 05/21/93 f420420a
Fig. 3, Remove the Release Bolt Fig. 5, Flatwasher and Release Nut Installed
CAUTION
Don’t exceed 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) torque on the re-
lease nut; and don’t use an impact wrench on
this nut. Too much torque could distort the head
of the chamber and prevent manual release of
the parking brake.
3.5 Using a hand wrench ( don’t use an im-
pact wrench), turn the release nut clock-
wise until the bolt extends above the nut
3.5 inches (76 mm) on type 2430 and
3030 chambers and 4 inches (102 mm) on
type 3036 and 3636 chambers. See
05/21/93 f420422a Fig. 6.
Fig. 4, Insert the Release Bolt
CAUTION
If the optional external breather tube or end
cover cap is missing or incorrectly installed, road
dirt and debris can adversely affect the operation
of the brake chamber. Once inside the chamber,
dirt and debris cause the internal parts to dete-
riorate and shorten their lives. Operating the unit
without the external breather tube or end cover
cap in place voids the MGM warranty.
1
1
11 3
4
05/24/95 f421356
10
1. Prevailing Torque Locknut
9
Fig. 2, Lock the Piston Rod in Place
5
6 WARNING
8
7 Before caging (compressing) the power spring,
02/22/2000 f422108 chock the vehicle tires and read the warnings
Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring. and instructions in this section (see Subject 100).
1. End Cover Cap When the power spring is caged, the vehicle may
2. Factory Sealed Parking Brake Clamp Ring be without brakes, allowing it to roll out of con-
3. Release Bolt Storage Pocket trol, possibly resulting in personal injury or prop-
4. Service Brake Clamp Ring erty damage.
5. Hardened Flatwasher
6. Prevailing Torque Locknut 2. Manually release the parking brake (cage the
7. Clevis Assembly power spring). For instructions, see Subject 100.
8. Piston Rod 3. Mark the air lines for later reference. Then care-
9. Spring Brake Air Inlet
fully disconnect them from the brake chamber.
10. Park Brake Air Inlet
11. External Breather Tube (optional) On chambers equipped with an external breather
tube, disconnect the tube and elbow from the
Fig. 1, Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber
service brake chamber.
Removal
DANGER
1. To make removal and installation of the parking
brake section easier (without removing the ser- Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed
vice brake chamber), lock off the service cham- clamp ring (see Fig. 1) for any purpose, at any
ber piston rod. time. The parking/emergency brake section is not
intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death
1.1 Apply the service brakes by actuating the may result from the sudden release of the power
driver’s foot brake treadle valve. spring.
4. Remove the parking brake section from the ser- 1. Inspect all parts in the service (non-pressure)
vice brake section. chamber. Replace any damaged or worn parts
with genuine MGM-engineered replacement
4.1 Using a hand wrench ( don’t use an im-
parts.
pact wrench), remove the clamp nuts on
the service clamp ring ( do not disas- 2. Place the new service brake diaphragm in the
semble the parking brake section). bottom recess of the parking brake section. See
Fig. 4.
4.2 While holding the parking brake section
securely in place, remove the service
clamp ring. Then remove the parking
brake section from the service brake non- 1
pressure chamber. See Fig. 3.
2
A
4
3
05/24/95 f421358
positioned to mate with the vehicle air pear, firmly tap the circumference of the clamp
supply lines. ring with a rubber mallet, and retighten the clamp
nuts until leaks cease ( do not touch the parking
4. Install the service brake clamp ring.
brake section). MGM recommends 25 to 30 lbf·ft
4.1 With the service brake clamp ring in place, (34 to 41 N·m) torque on the clamp hexnuts.
install the clamp bolts and nuts. 9. On chambers equipped with an external breather
4.2 Using a hand wrench ( don’t use an im- tube, make sure that the open end of the tube is
pact wrench), alternately tighten each free of grease, dirt, and other debris. Then, apply
clamp nut in increments of 5 to 10 lbf·ft a high-quality rubber cement to the tube and in-
(6.8 to 13.6 N·m) while constantly re- sert it into the elbow at least 1/2 inch (13 mm).
checking the alignment of mating parts. See Fig. 5. Insert the tube into the service brake
chamber.
If realignment is needed, loosen the nuts
again, and repeat this substep.
4.3 Firmly tap around the circumference of the
service clamp ring with a rubber mallet to
ensure full seating of the clamp. Tighten
the nuts to a final torque of 25 to 30 lbf·ft
(34 to 41 N·m).
5. Make sure the air hose fittings are free of A
grease, dirt, and other debris. Then, apply Loc-
tite® 242 sealant, or an equivalent, to the fittings,
and install, as referenced earlier. Using a hand
wrench ( don’t use an impact wrench), tighten
the fittings 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m). B
6. Using the vehicle system air, charge the parking
05/12/93 f420732a
brake with full line pressure—at least 100 psi
(690 kPa). Using only soapy water ( never any A. Apply adhesive (rubber cement) here.
type of oil, which could deteriorate rubber parts), B. Check for 1/2" (13 mm) minimum engagement.
check for air leaks at the air lines and fittings. If Fig. 5, Install the External Breather Tube
bubbles or leaks appear, tighten the fittings
slightly, but not over 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m). 10. With air pressure now exhausted from the ser-
vice brake chamber, but held on the parking
7. With the parking brake still charged with full line
brake, uncage the power spring, and snap the
pressure, apply and hold the foot brake treadle
end cover cap in place. For instructions, see
valve down to charge the service brake chamber.
Subject 100.
Remove the locking-jaw pliers from the service
piston rod so that the piston returns to a normal 11. Adjust the brakes at the slack adjuster. Refer to
position in the chamber. the appropriate section in this manual.
IMPORTANT: After replacing any brake chamber
DANGER components, check the piston rod stroke and
Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed actuating alignment to ensure correct installation
clamp ring.(see Fig. 1) for any purpose, at any and foundation brake adjustment. No foundation
time. The parking/emergency brake section is not brake adjustments can be made at the chamber
intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death and all "stroke" adjustments must be made at
may result from the sudden release of the power the slack adjuster. For instructions, refer to the
spring. applicable slack adjuster section in this group.
8. Test for air leaks around the circumference of the
service brake clamp ring. If bubbles or leaks ap-
DANGER 1
5
A
6
8
7
02/22/2000 f422108
Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring.
1. End Cover Cap
2. Factory Sealed Parking Brake Clamp Ring
3. Release Bolt Storage Pocket
4. Service Brake Clamp Ring
5. Hardened Flatwasher
6. Prevailing Torque Locknut
7. Clevis Assembly
8. Piston Rod
9. Spring Brake Air Inlet
02/22/2000 f421352
10. Park Brake Air Inlet
A. Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring. 11. External Breather Tube (optional)
1. Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber
Fig. 2, Model TR-T (TR Series) Brake Chamber
Fig. 1, Brake Chamber
3.1 Remove the cotter pin(s) from the clevis
pin(s), then remove the clevis pin(s) from
Removal (See Fig. 2) the clevis. Disconnect the clevis from the
slack adjuster.
WARNING NOTE: Automatic slack adjusters have two
Before caging (compressing) the power spring, clevis pins, one large and one small, each
chock the vehicle tires and read the warnings locked by a cotter pin.
and instructions in this section (see Subject 100). 3.2 Make sure the parking brake has been
When the power spring is caged, the vehicle may released manually (the power spring has
be without brakes, allowing it to roll out of con- been caged). For instructions, see Sub-
trol, possibly resulting in personal injury or prop- ject 100. Also, make sure that the service
erty damage. brake piston is fully retracted (in the
brakes "OFF" position). Then, record both
1. Manually release the parking brake (cage the
of the following dimensions in either mm
power spring). For instructions, see Subject 100.
or inches, measuring outward from the
2. Mark the air lines for later reference. Then care- base of the service brake chamber (see
fully disconnect them from the brake chambers. Fig. 3):
3. Remove the brake chamber from the vehicle.
05/24/95 f421359
6. Inspect the piston rod to be sure it is working 10. Adjust the brakes at the slack adjuster. For in-
free, not binding, and is square with the chamber structions, refer to the applicable slack adjuster
bottom within ±3° in any direction from zero to section in this group.
full stroke. If there is misalignment, make correc- IMPORTANT: After replacing any brake cham-
tions by loosening the locknuts and repositioning ber, check the piston rod stroke and actuating
the chamber on the mounting bracket, or by alignment to ensure correct installation and
shimming the slack adjuster to the right or left on
foundation brake adjustment. No foundation
the camshaft.
brake adjustments, parking brake or service
7. Make sure the air hose fittings are free of brake, can be made at the chamber and all
grease, dirt, and other debris. Then, apply Loc- "stroke" adjustments must be made at the slack
tite® 242 sealant, or an equivalent, to the fittings, adjuster. For instructions, refer to the applicable
and install, as referenced earlier. Using a hand slack adjuster section in this group.
wrench ( don’t use an impact wrench), tighten
the fittings 25 lbf·ft (34 N·m).
8. Using the vehicle system air, charge the parking
brake with full line pressure, at least 100 psi (690
kPa). Using only soapy water ( never any type of
oil, which could deteriorate rubber parts), check
for air leaks at the air lines and fittings. If
Torque
Description
lbf·ft (N·m)
Spring Brake Release Bolt Nut (in storage pocket) 10 (14)
Service Brake Clamp Ring Nut 25–30 (34–41)
Brake Chamber Mounting Stud Nut 100–115 (136–156)
Air Hose Fitting-to-Chamber 30 (41)
Table 1, Torque Values
General Information In the service brake section, the service brake cham-
ber contains a service return spring, piston rod as-
sembly, and service brake diaphragm.
DANGER In the parking/emergency brake section, the adaptor
Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed and the parking brake chamber contain a return
clamp ring (see Fig. 1) for any purpose, at any spring, a push rod assembly, a parking (spring) brake
time. The parking/emergency brake section is not diaphragm, a pressure plate, a power spring, and a
intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death detachable release bolt.
may result from the sudden release of the power All Anchorlok brake chambers are mounted to
spring. brackets on the axle using prevailing torque locknuts
and hardened flatwashers.
IMPORTANT: The parking/emergency brake
section is factory sealed (no clamp ring) and is Principles of Operation
a non-serviceable unit.
1
SERVICE BRAKES
As the brake pedal is depressed, compressed air
enters the service brake chamber through a port (ref.
9, Fig. 1). Air pressure acts upon a diaphragm, which
10 forces the piston rod toward the non-pressure cham-
ber, applying a straight-line force to the slack ad-
juster, which converts it to a rotational force. This in
turn rotates the camshaft and applies the brakes.
2 See Fig. 2.
3
8 A
9
4
1
5
7
6
01/28/2000 f421371a
1. Dust Plug
2. Release Bolt Storage Pocket
3. Service Brake Clamp Ring
2
4. Hardened Flatwasher
5. Locknut
6. Clevis Assembly
7. Piston Rod 01/28/2000 f421372a
8. Park Brake Air Inlet
9. Service Brake Air Inlet A. Air in these Chambers
10. Factory Sealed Clamp Ring ( do not remove) 1. Piston Rod Assembly
2. Service Brake Diaphragm
Fig. 1, Brake Chamber
Fig. 2, Service Brakes Applied / Parking Brakes
Anchorlok brake chambers consist of a service brake Released
section and a parking/emergency spring brake sec-
tion. See Fig. 1. The service brake section is the Then, when the brake pedal is released (see Fig. 3),
smaller section near the clevis assembly. air is exhausted from the service brake chamber, and
the return spring allows the diaphragm, piston rod
PARKING/EMERGENCY
BRAKES
During parking brake release, compressed air enters
the parking/emergency brake chamber below the dia-
phragm, forcing the diaphragm against the pressure
plate to compress the power spring and release the
parking/emergency brake. See Fig. 3. During parking
brake application, a control valve in the cab exhausts 2
air from the parking/emergency brake chamber. This
allows the power spring to extend and apply the 06/23/95 f421375
brakes. See Fig. 4.
1. Parking/Emergency Brake Diaphragm
2. Power Spring
3
A
01/28/2000 f421373a
A. Air in this Chamber
1. Service Brake Diaphragm
2. Power Spring
3. Parking/Emergency Brake Diaphragm
1
05/21/93 f420420a
10 DANGER
Do not attempt to cage the power spring if the
2
parking brake chamber is damaged severely
enough to lose its structural integrity. If the
3
power spring were to break loose, it could result
in death, severe personal injury, or property dam-
8 age.
9 A DAMAGED PARKING BRAKE CHAMBER IS EX-
4
TREMELY DANGEROUS! Only qualified service
5 personnel should attempt to remove and disarm
7 a damaged chamber.
6
3. Manually release the parking brake (cage the
01/28/2000 f421371a
power spring).
1. Dust Plug
2. Release Bolt Storage Pocket 3.1 Using a hand wrench, (Do not use an im-
3. Service Brake Clamp Ring pact wrench), unscrew the release nut,
4. Hardened Flatwasher and remove the nut, flatwasher, and re-
5. Locknut lease bolt from the storage pocket on the
6. Clevis Assembly side of the chamber. See Fig. 3.
7. Piston Rod
8. Park Brake Air Inlet IMPORTANT: If these parts are not stored
9. Service Brake Air Inlet on the chamber, they must be otherwise ob-
10. Factory Sealed Clamp Ring (do not remove) tained or purchased; the parking brake can-
not be manually released without them.
Fig. 1, Brake Chamber
3.2 Insert the release bolt into the center-hole
1. Chock all tires. in the chamber head. See Fig. 4. Con-
2. Remove the dust plug from the center-hole in the tinue to insert the bolt until it bottoms out
head of the chamber. See Fig. 2. into the hole in the pressure plate inside
the chamber.
IMPORTANT: If you are not absolutely sure
that the formed end of the bolt has engaged
Fig. 3, Remove the Release Bolt Fig. 5, Flatwasher and Release Nut Installed
DANGER
Exhaust all air pressure before tightening the re-
lease nut more than finger-tight. Tightening this
nut under pressure can damage the pressure
plate and result in sudden release of the power
spring, causing death or severe personal injury.
CAUTION
If equipped with S-cam, do not exceed 35 lbf·ft
(47 N·m) torque on the release nut; if equipped
with wedge brakes, do not exceed 20 lbf·ft (27
N·m) torque on the release nut.
05/21/93 f420422a
3.5 Using a hand wrench (do not use an im-
Fig. 4, Insert the Release Bolt pact wrench), turn the release nut clock-
wise until the power spring is caged (see
the pressure plate correctly, repeat this step.
Fig. 6).
Repeat it until you are absolutely sure.
The bolt should extend above the nut at
3.3 Turn the release bolt one-quarter turn least 2.915 inches (74 mm) on 24-inch
clockwise. Pull to seat the formed end of chambers, or 2.875 inches (73 mm) on
the release bolt in the recess of the pres- 30-inch chambers.
sure plate.
IMPORTANT: Do not exceed these bolt
3.4 Holding the release bolt locked into the
pressure plate, install the flatwasher and
lengths. If the bolt lengths can’t be obtained
release nut on the end of the bolt, and without exceeding the recommended maxi-
turn down the nut against the flatwasher mum torque values, replace the tandem
until it is finger-tight. See Fig. 5. brake chamber.
CAUTION
Do not use an impact wrench on this nut. Too
much torque could damage the pressure plate
and prevent manual release of the parking brake.
1.1 Use a hand wrench to turn the release nut
counterclockwise until the power spring
extends back into the parking/emergency
brake chamber.
NOTE: When the power spring is fully ex-
07/29/93 f420428a
tended, force will no longer be felt on the
release nut. Fig. 8, Snap the Dust Plug in Place
1.2 Remove the nut and flatwasher.
1.3 Turn the release bolt one-quarter turn
CAUTION
counterclockwise and unlock the bolt from If a dust plug is missing or incorrectly installed,
the receptacle in the pressure plate. Re- road dirt and debris can enter the brake chamber
move the release bolt from the center-hole and cause the internal parts to deteriorate.
of the chamber.
4. Check the plastic dust plug, and replace it with a
2. Using a hand wrench, (do not use an impact new one at once if damaged or missing.
wrench), install the release bolt, flatwasher, and
release nut in the storage pocket. Tighten the nut 5. Remove the chocks from the tires.
5 to 8 lbf·ft (6.8 to 10.8 N·m). See Fig. 7.
3. Snap the dust plug in place over the center-hole
in the chamber head. See Fig. 8.
10 1
01/28/2000 f421356a
2 1. Vice Grips
3
Fig. 2, Lock the Extended Rod with Vice Grips
8
9 WARNING
4
Before caging (compressing) the power spring,
5
chock the vehicle tires and read the warnings
7 and instructions in this section (see Subject 100).
6
When the power spring is caged, the vehicle may
01/28/2000 f421371a be without brakes, allowing it to roll out of con-
1. Dust Plug trol, possibly resulting in personal injury or prop-
2. Release Bolt Storage Pocket erty damage.
3. Service Brake Clamp Ring
4. Hardened Flatwasher 2. Manually release the parking brake (cage the
5. Locknut power spring). For instructions, see Subject 100.
6. Clevis Assembly 3. Mark the air lines for later reference. Then care-
7. Piston Rod
fully disconnect them from the brake chamber.
8. Park Brake Air Inlet
9. Service Brake Air Inlet
10. Factory Sealed Clamp Ring (do not remove) DANGER
Fig. 1, Brake Chamber Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed
clamp ring (see Fig. 1) for any purpose, at any
Removal time. The parking/emergency brake section is not
intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death
1. To make removal and installation of the parking may result from the sudden release of the power
brake section easier (without removing the ser- spring.
vice brake chamber), lock off the service cham- 4. Remove the parking brake and adaptor from the
ber piston rod. service brake section.
1.1 Apply the service brakes by actuating the 4.1 Using a hand wrench (don’t use an impact
driver’s foot brake treadle valve. wrench), remove the clamp nuts on the
1.2 With the brakes applied, clamp a pair of service brake clamp ring (do not disas-
locking-jaw pliers on the piston rod to lock semble the parking brake section).
2
A
3
4
3
05/24/95 f421358
A. Do not remove the factory-sealed clamp ring. Fig. 4, Brake Chamber Parts
Fig. 3, Remove the Service Clamp Ring 3.1 If installing a new parking brake section,
be sure it is the same size and make as
5. Remove the service brake diaphragm from the the old one.
bottom of the parking brake section.
3.2 Check that the release bolt is fully ex-
tended outward. For instructions, see
Installation Subject 100.
IMPORTANT: At this time, take the opportunity 3.3 Install the parking brake section on the
service chamber so that all mating parts
to inspect the parking/emergency brake section,
are aligned straight and the air lines are
and replace it if it shows signs of damage, cor- positioned to mate with the vehicle air
rosion, or rust. supply lines.
1. Inspect all parts in the service (non-pressure) 4. Install the service brake clamp ring.
chamber. Replace any damaged or worn parts.
4.1 With the service brake clamp ring in place,
2. Place the new service brake diaphragm in the install the clamp bolts and nuts.
bottom recess of the adaptor. See Fig. 4.
4.2 Using a hand wrench (don’t use an impact
3. Install the (new, if needed) parking/emergency
wrench), alternately tighten each clamp
brake section.
nut 20 to 30 lbf·ft (27.1 to 40.6 N·m) while
constantly rechecking the alignment of IMPORTANT: After replacing any brake chamber
mating parts. components, check the piston rod stroke and
4.3 Lightly tap around the circumference of actuating alignment to ensure correct installation
the service clamp ring with a rubber mallet and foundation brake adjustment. No foundation
to ensure full seating of the clamp. If re- brake adjustments can be made at the chamber
alignment is needed, loosen the nuts and all "stroke" adjustments must be made at
again, and repeat this step. the slack adjuster. For instructions, see the ap-
5. Make sure the air hose fittings are free of plicable slack adjuster section in this group.
grease, dirt, and other debris. Then, apply Loc-
tite® 242 sealant, or an equivalent, to the fittings,
and install, as referenced earlier. Using a hand
wrench (don’t use an impact wrench), tighten the
fittings 10 lbf·ft (13.5 N·m).
6. Using the vehicle system air, charge the parking
brake with full line pressure—at least 100 psi
(690 kPa). Using only soapy water (never any
type of oil, which could deteriorate rubber parts),
check for air leaks at the air lines and fittings. If
bubbles or leaks appear, tighten the fittings
slightly, but not over 10 lbf·ft (13.5 N·m).
7. With the parking brake still charged with full line
pressure, apply and hold the foot brake treadle
valve down to charge the service brake chamber.
Remove the locking-jaw pliers from the service
piston rod so that the piston returns to a normal
position in the chamber.
DANGER
Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed
clamp ring (see Fig. 1) for any purpose, at any
time. The parking/emergency brake section is not
intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death
may result from the sudden release of the power
spring.
8. Test for air leaks around the circumference of the
service brake clamp ring. If bubbles or leaks ap-
pear, release all air pressure from the chamber,
then retighten the clamp nuts until leaks cease
(do not touch the parking brake section). Anchor-
lok recommends 20 to 30 lbf·ft (27.1 to 40.6
N·m) torque on the clamp hexnuts.
9. With air pressure now exhausted from the ser-
vice brake chamber, but held on the parking
brake, uncage the power spring on the park
brake chamber, and snap the dust plug in place.
For instructions, see Subject 100.
10. Adjust the brakes at the slack adjuster. Refer to
the appropriate section in this manual.
DANGER DANGER
Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed
Do not attempt to remove the factory-sealed
clamp ring (see Fig. 1) for any purpose, at any
clamp ring (see Fig. 1) for any purpose, at any
time. The parking/emergency brake section is not
time. The parking/emergency brake section is not
intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death
intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death
may result from the sudden release of the power
may result from the sudden release of the power
spring.
spring.
IMPORTANT: If the service brake clamp ring
4.1 Using a hand wrench ( don’t use an im-
pact wrench), loosen the clamp nuts on was loosened to reposition the air inlet ports,
the service clamp ring ( do not disas- apply air to the parking brake, and then apply
semble the parking brake section). and hold the foot brake treadle valve down to
charge the service brake chamber. Now test for
4.2 Reposition the air inlet ports, as needed, air leaks around the circumference of the ser-
to mate with vehicle air supply lines.
vice brake clamp ring. If bubbles or leaks ap-
Alternately tighten each clamp nut in while pear, release all air pressure from the chamber,
constantly rechecking the alignment of then retighten the clamp nuts until leaks cease (
mating parts. Tighten the nuts 20 to 30 do not touch the parking brake section). Anchor-
lbf·ft (27.1 to 40.6 N·m). lok recommends 20 to 30 lbf·ft (27.1 to 40.6
If realignment is needed, loosen the nuts N·m) torque on the clamp hexnuts.
again, and repeat this substep. 9. With air pressure now exhausted from the ser-
4.3 Lightly tap around the circumference of vice brake chamber, but held on the parking
the service clamp ring to ensure full seat- brake, uncage the power spring, and snap the
ing of the clamp. dust plug in place. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
5. Connect the slack adjuster. Refer to the appli-
cable slack adjuster section in this group for in- 10. Adjust the brakes at the slack adjuster. For in-
stallation instructions. structions, refer to the applicable slack adjuster
section in this group.
6. Inspect the piston rod to be sure it is working
free, not binding, and is square with the chamber IMPORTANT: After replacing any brake cham-
bottom from zero to full stroke. If there is mis- ber, check the piston rod stroke and actuating
alignment, make corrections by loosening the alignment to ensure correct installation and
Torque Values
Torque
Description
lbf·ft (N·m)
Spring Brake Release Bolt Nut:
(in storage pocket) 5 to 8 (6.7 to 10.8)
(caged—on S-cam brakes) 25 to 35 (34 to 47)
(caged—on wedge brakes) 20 (27)
Service Brake Clamp Ring Nut 20 to 30 (27 to 40.6)
Brake Chamber Mounting Stud
130 (176)
Locknut
Air Hose Fitting-to-Chamber 10 (13.5)
Table 1, Torque Values
6
7
8
9
07/07/98 f420051a
Principles of Operation
The greater the air pressure admitted to the brake
chamber, the greater the force applied by the piston
Operating Test
1. Chock the tires.
2. Apply the brakes. Check that each piston rod
moves out promptly, without binding.
3. Release the brakes. Check that each piston rod
returns to the released position promptly, without
binding.
4. Check the brake chamber stroke. It should be as
short as possible without causing the brakes to
drag. If needed, adjust the travel of the piston
rod at the slack adjuster. For instructions, refer to
the foundation brake section in this manual.
Leakage Test
1. Apply the brakes and hold them on full line pres-
sure of at least 80 psi (550 kPa).
2. Using a soap solution, coat the clamp ring. Leak-
age is excessive if it produces a 1-inch (25-mm)
bubble within five seconds.
CAUTION
Don’t overtighten the clamp ring. This can distort
the flange sealing surface, or the clamp ring it-
self.
3. If the leakage is excessive, tighten the clamp
ring flange nuts evenly until the leakage is re-
duced. For acceptable torque ranges, see Speci-
fications 400.
4. Using a soap solution, coat the area around the
piston-rod hole. No leakage is permitted. If there
is leakage, replace the diaphragm. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 110.
Replacement 2
WARNING
Wear safety goggles when draining the air sys- 6
tem or loosening an air line because dirt or 7
sludge could fly out at high speeds. Don’t direct
the airstreams at anyone. Don’t disconnect pres- 8
surized hoses, since they may whip as air es-
capes. Failure to take all necessary precautions 9
could result in personal injury. 07/07/98 f420051a
1 3
4
5
6
7 10/11/94 f420433a
8 A. Reference Line
CAUTION
Don’t overtighten the clamp ring. This can distort
the flange sealing surface, or the clamp ring it-
self.
2.4 Position the cover assembly and clamp
ring (aligning the reference marks), and
install the clamp ring bolt and flange nut.
Tighten the flange nuts evenly to elimi-
nate leakage. For acceptable torque
ranges, see Specifications 400.
3. Install the clevis locknut and clevis, and release
the clamp on the piston rod.
4. If the brake chamber was removed from the ve-
hicle, install it. For instructions, see Subject 120.
5. Do both of the tests found in Subject 100.
2 Torque:
Description Chamber Size: in
lbf·ft (N·m)
12 30 (41)
16 (7/16-inch Stud) 40 (54)
Brake Chamber
16 (1/2-inch Stud) 75 (102)
Mounting-Stud Locknuts
20 100 (136)
24 100 (136)
Table 1, Mounting-Stud Locknut Torque Values
2 Torque:
Description Chamber Size: in
lbf·ft (N·m)
12 20–30 (27–41)
16 (7/16-inch Stud) 20–30 (27–41)
Piston Rod Nuts 16 (1/2-inch Stud) 20–30 (27–41)
20 33–90 (45–122)
24 33–90 (45–122)
Table 3, Piston Rod Nut Torque Values
General Information
This troubleshooting guide is designed to help locate
causes of problems originating in the air brake sys-
tem. The corrective measures given are not intended
to replace the detailed service information found in
other sections of this manual or in the component
manufacturer’s service manuals. If the vehicle is
equipped with ABS (antilock brake system), refer to
the applicable section in this group for troubleshoot-
ing the ABS system.
Before attempting to isolate the causes of an air
brake system problem, do the following:
1. Check the operation of the air compressor. Refer
to the engine manufacturer’s service manual.
Check the pressure levels of the air reservoirs.
See the pretrip inspection and daily maintenance
chapter of the Columbia Driver’s Manual.
2. Be sure that all relay valves are operating. See
Group 42 of the Columbia Maintenance Manual.
3. Check the operation of the brake chambers as
instructed in Group 42 of the Columbia Mainte-
nance Manual.
4. Examine all tubing for kinks, dents, and other
damage. Replace damaged tubing.
5. Examine all hoses for cracks, drying out, over-
heating, and other damage. Replace damaged
hoses.
6. Examine all air line fittings. Tighten loose con-
nections; replace fittings that are damaged. For
instructions, refer elsewhere in this group.
7. Examine leaking pipe connections for cracks or
thread damage; replace as needed. If there is no
damage, retighten the fitting. For instructions,
refer elsewhere in this group.
Safety Precautions
WARNING
Follow the manufacturer’s procedures while
working on any air device. Some parts are sub-
ject to mechanical (spring) or pneumatic propul-
sion and may cause personal injury or property
damage when released. Failure to take all neces-
sary precautions during servicing of the air brake
system can result in personal injury or property
damage.
Compression and storage of air in the air brake sys-
tem is comparable to the energy in a coiled spring:
when released, it may present a hazard. Because of
this, certain precautions are required.
1. Chock the tires. This will prevent accidental roll-
ing of the vehicle when air is released from the
brake system.
2. Don’t disconnect pressurized hoses because
they will whip as air escapes from the line. Drain
the air system before disconnecting the air
hoses.
3. When draining the air system, do not look into
the air jets or direct them toward another person:
dirt particles or sludge may be carried in the air
stream.
4. As air pressure is drained and the parking/ emer-
gency brakes apply, keep your hands away from
the brake chamber push rods and parking brake
chambers, which will activate automatically with
the loss of pressure.
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Problem—Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Possible Cause Remedy
The vehicle is overloaded. Observe the recommended maximum load limits.
There is low air pressure in the brake The drain cock on the air reservoir was left open; close the drain cock.
system, about 60 psi (413 kPa) or lower.
Check the compressor output pressure; correct as necessary.
Check the setting of the air governor with an accurate test gauge. Adjust the
air governor to the recommended specification.
The application air lines are leaking Check the application air lines, brake valve, and the service and parking brake
excessively. chambers for air leaks. Repair or replace the damaged component(s).
Brake valve delivery pressure is below Lubricate the brake valve parts; overhaul the unit, if necessary.
normal.
Wear or glazing of the brake linings is Install new brake linings on the brake shoes on both sides of the axle.
present.
Adjustment or lubrication of the brakes is Adjust or lubricate the brakes.
needed.
The automatic slack adjusters are not Lubricate the automatic slack adjusters and check for binding, damaged, or
operating. inoperative slack adjuster parts. Replace damaged or inoperative parts, or
eliminate the cause of the binding.
The cam has flipped over. Replace the linings and the cam on each end of the axle.
One or more of the brake drums is broken Replace the brake drum(s).
or cracked.
Wrong size brake linings were installed. Replace the brake linings with the recommended size.
Wrong size brake chambers were Replace the brake chambers with the recommended size.
installed.
A camshaft bracket or chamber mounting Replace the camshaft bracket or chamber mounting bracket.
bracket is bent or broken.
The brake chamber mounting stud nuts or Tighten the brake chamber to its mounting bracket or the mounting bracket to
brake chamber mounting bracket is loose. the foundation brake housing.
There is a ruptured diaphragm in the Replace the diaphragm.
service brake.
Problem—Service Brakes Apply When the Parking Brakes Are Released With Air Pressure
Problem—Service Brakes Apply When the Parking Brakes Are Released With Air Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
The air delivery lines to the brake chamber Reverse the connections of the brake chamber air lines.
have been reversed.
Problem— Air Pressure Drops Quickly With the Engine Stopped and the Brakes Released
Problem— Air Pressure Drops Quickly With the Engine Stopped and the Brakes Released
Possible Cause Remedy
The brake foot valve is leaking. Repair or replace the brake foot valve.
The air compressor discharge valve is Repair or replace the discharge valve. If disassembly is not recommended by
leaking. the compressor manufacturer, replace the air compressor with a factory-rebuilt
or a new unit.
The air governor is leaking. Repair or replace the air governor.
Problem—Air Pressure Drops Quickly With the Engine Stopped and the Brakes Fully Applied
Problem—Air Pressure Drops Quickly With the Engine Stopped and the Brakes Fully Applied
Possible Cause Remedy
A service or parking brake chamber is Tighten the clamp ring(s). If leaks persist, replace the diaphragm(s) or
leaking. assembly.
The brake foot valve or relay valve is Repair or replace the component(s) or assembly.
leaking.
General Description air compressor cuts off, allowing the spring action of
the valve guide in the sump cavity to close the inlet
valve. The inlet valve and the exhaust valve are now
The DV–2 automatic reservoir drain valve ( Fig. 1)
both closed. See Fig. 4. When the wet tank pressure
automatically removes contaminants and water from
drops approximately 2 psi (14 kPa), the air pressure
the wet-air tank each time the brakes are applied.
in the sump cavity opens the exhaust valve and al-
The drain valve is attached to a drain cock located
lows moisture and contaminants to be ejected from
on the bottom of either end of the wet-air tank. Since
the sump cavity until pressure in the sump cavity
the brake application valve is protected by a check
drops sufficiently to close the exhaust valve. See
valve between the wet-and dry-air tanks, any leak or
Fig. 5.
failure will not reduce the supply of air that is in the
dry part of the system. If the leak is severe, it could
prevent the continued resupply of air as it is used up
when applying the brakes. A failed drain valve will
allow moisture to build up in the wet tank which in
turn could reach the dry tank, and then travel into the
air brake system where it could cause brake failure.
A leaking drain valve allows wet tank leakdown which
in turn can cause premature wear on the air com-
pressor during vehicle operation as the air compres-
sor continues to run to maintain wet tank air pres-
sure. 09/26/94 f420042a
5
7 6
09/26/94 8 f420041a
Fig. 1, DV-2 Valve The length of time the exhaust valve remains open
and the amount of moisture and contaminants
Principles of Operation ejected depends upon the sump pressure and the
wet tank pressure drop that occurs each time air is
With no pressure in the system, the drain valve’s in- used from the system.
let and exhaust valves are closed. See Fig. 2. Upon
charging the system, a slight pressure opens the in-
let valve which permits air and contaminants to col-
lect in the sump. See Fig. 3. The inlet valve remains
open when pressure is rising in the system until the
09/27/94 f420778a
09/27/94 f420779a
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions.
1. Always chock the vehicle’s wheels and shut
down the engine when working under a vehicle.
Depleting vehicle air system pressure may cause
the vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from brake
chamber push rods and slack adjusters; they
may apply as air system pressure drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining air pressure. It may whip as air escapes.
Never remove a component or pipe plug unless
you are certain all system pressure has been
depleted.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and
always wear safety glasses when working with
air pressure. Never look into air jets or direct
them at anyone.
4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until
you have read and understood the recom-
mended procedures. Some components contain
powerful springs and injury can result if not prop-
erly disassembled. Use only proper tools and
observe all precautions pertaining to use of those
tools.
Operating Test
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, see
Safety Precautions 100.
Perform the following test after repairing or replacing
the DV–2 valve to ensure that the valve is function-
ing properly.
With the system charged, apply the brakes several
times. Each time the brakes are applied, an exhaust
of air should occur from the exhaust port of the drain
valve. If no air comes out, push the wire stem lo-
cated inside the exhaust port. If no air comes out
after pushing the wire stem, there may be a plugged
filter in the adapter which should be replaced.
If the drain valve does not function properly, repair or
replace it following instructions in this section.
Leakage Test
Perform the following test after repairing or replacing
the DV–2 valve to ensure that the valve is function-
ing properly.
With the system charged and pressure stabilized in
the system, there should be no leaks at the drain
valve exhaust port. A constant slight exhaust of air at
the drain valve exhaust port could be caused by ex-
cessive leakage in the air brake system.
If the drain valve is leaking excessively, repair or re-
place it following instructions in this section.
Removal
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, see
Safety Precautions 100.
1. Chock the tires, and drain the air system.
2. Remove the drain valve assembly from the end
of the wet tank air reservoir.
Installation
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, see
Safety Precautions 100.
1. Using a cleaning solvent, thoroughly flush and
clean the wet tank reservoir to avoid early fouling
at the drain valve. Aerate the wet tank thoroughly
if solvents were used during cleaning.
2. Install the drain valve assembly on the wet tank
by tightening the hexagonal nipple until the drain
valve is positioned so that the valve body is par-
allel to the bottom of the wet tank with the ex-
haust port facing straight down. Make sure that
the exhaust port is clear of any air, electric, or
fuel lines. Make sure the drain valve is attached
tight enough to prevent leakage.
3. Close the drain cocks to the wet and dry air res-
ervoirs. Start the vehicle engine to pressurize the
air system.
4. Leak test the drain valve following the instruc-
tions in Subject 110.
Disassembly (See Fig. 1) 1. Wash all metal parts of the drain valve in an ap-
proved cleaning solvent. Dry the metal parts of
the disassembled moisture ejection valve with
compressed air.
2. Wipe all rubber parts clean with a clean cloth.
1 Examine all rubber parts for wear cracks, tears,
2
3 or other deterioration. If any rubber parts are
4 5 worn, cracked, torn or otherwise deteriorated,
14 replace them with new parts.
3. Examine all metal parts for wear, cracks, or other
damage. If any metal parts are worn, cracked, or
otherwise damaged, replace them with new
6 parts.
7 4. Clean and examine the filter. If it will not clean
1. Top Reservoir
12 Port 8. Valve
8 Guide completely, or is torn or damaged, replace it with
13 Valve Body 9
2. 9. Valve Cover
a new filter.
3. Filter
09/29/94 Retainer 11 10 10. Exhaust Port f420780a
4. Hexhead Nipple 11. Wire Stem
5. Side Reservoir Port 12. Lockwasher (4 qty.) CAUTION
6. Inlet and Exhaust 13. Capscrew (4 qty.)
Valve 14. Inlet Valve Seat Do not reassemble the drain valve with a dirty
7. Valve Sealing Ring filter; to do so could result in failure of the drain
Fig. 1, DV-2 Valve (cutaway view) valve in service.
Torque
Description
lbf·ft (N·m)
Valve Cover Capscrews 6 to 8 (8 to11)
Hexhead Nipple (to valve body) 4 to 6 (5.5 to 8)
Table 1, Torque Values
9 7
10 8
07/06/95 f421377
1. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Front Brake Valve
2. Primary Delivery Circuit to Rear Brake Valve
3. Secondary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
4. Primary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
5. Primary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection Valve
6. Delivery Circuit to Trailer Hand Valve
7. Double Check Valve
8. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection
Valve
9. Primary Supply Circuit to Primary Supply Reservoir
10. Secondary Supply Circuit to Secondary Supply
Reservoir
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions:
1. Chock the tires and shut down the engine before
working under a vehicle. Dropping air system
pressure may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep
hands away from brake chamber push rods and
slack adjusters; they will apply as air pressure
drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jet or direct
them at anyone.
4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until
you have read and understood recommended
procedures. Some components contain powerful
springs, and injury can result if they are not cor-
rectly disassembled. Use only the correct tools,
and observe all precautions regarding use of
those tools.
Operating and Leakage Test the first port for leakage using a soap so-
lution. A 1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble or less in
1. If testing the valve while in the vehicle, proceed 5 seconds is allowable. Connect the line
as follows: to the inlet port. Repeat this step, check-
ing the opposite inlet port for leaks.
1.1 Push in and release the foot brake pedal
while checking that the brakes apply and 3.4 If the double check valve does not func-
release on both the tractor and trailer. tion as described, or if the leakage is ex-
cessive, replace it. See Subject 120 for
1.2 Apply and release the trailer control valve instructions.
while checking that only the trailer brakes
apply and release. If the valve cannot be replaced, repair it
using Bendix parts. See Subject 130 for
1.3 Apply the trailer control valve and check instructions.
the exhaust port of the foot brake valve
for leakage using a soap solution. A
1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble or less in 5 sec-
onds is allowable. Release the valve.
1.4 Disconnect the air line from the trailer
control valve exhaust port. Push the foot
brake pedal until it stops and hold it in
place. Check the trailer control valve ex-
haust port for leakage using a soap solu-
tion. A 1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble or less in
five seconds is allowable.
1.5 Connect the air line to the trailer control
valve exhaust port.
1.6 If the double check valve does not func-
tion as described, or if the leakage is ex-
cessive, replace it. See Subject 120 for
instructions.
If the valve cannot be replaced, repair it
using Bendix parts. See Subject 130 for
instructions.
2. Connect two separately controlled air supplies to
the inlet ports.
3. If bench testing the valve, proceed as follows.
3.1 Apply and release air to one inlet port
(foot brake pedal) while checking that the
test gauge registers the application and
release.
3.2 Apply and release air to the other inlet
port (trailer control valve) while checking
that the gauge registers the application
and release.
3.3 Disconnect the line from one of the
double check valve inlet ports. Apply air
to the opposite inlet port while checking
WARNING
Wear safety goggles when draining the air sys-
tem or disconnecting an air line because dirt or
sludge particles could fly out at high speeds.
Don’t direct the airstreams at other people. Don’t
disconnect pressurized hoses, since they may
whip as air escapes. Failure to take all necessary
precautions could result in personal injury.
4
3
2
1
9 7
10 8
07/06/95 f421377
1. Secondary Supply Circuit to Front Brake Valve
2. Delivery Circuit to Rear Brake Valve
3. Secondary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
4. Primary Supply Circuit to Dash Valve
5. Primary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection Valve
6. Delivery Circuit to Trailer Hand Valve
7. Double Check Valve
8. Secondary Delivery Circuit to Tractor Protection
Valve
9. Primary Supply Circuit to Primary Supply Reservoir
10. Secondary Supply Circuit to Secondary Supply
Reservoir
Installation
1. Screw the double check valve into the foot brake
valve. Tighten the valve firmly.
2 3
7
6
5
09/29/94 1 f420341a
1. Supply Port 4. Valve Body 6. Shuttle Valve
2. End Cap 5. Shuttle Guide 7. Delivery Port
3. O-Ring
Assembly
1. Install the shuttle valve and shuttle guide in the
valve body.
2. Coat the O-ring with BW 650M silicone lubricant
(BW 291126). It is not necessary to lubricate the
shuttle valve.
ANTI-COMPOUNDING
When a service brake application is made with the
parking brakes applied, service air enters the bal-
3 9 ance port and flows through the QR–1C valve into
the inlet ports of the parking brake chambers. This
prevents application of the service and parking
4
brakes at the same time. Service air passing through
09/15/95 10 f421386
the QR–1C valve flexes the double check and quick
1. Supply Port 7. Double Check release diaphragms, sealing the supply and exhaust
2. Balance Port Diaphragm ports. When the service brake application is re-
3. Delivery Port 8. Body leased, air is exhausted from the parking brakes.
4. Exhaust 9. Quick Release
5. Cap Nut Diaphragm
6. Sealing Ring 10. Cover
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions.
1. Chock the tires and shut down the engine before
working under a vehicle. Depleting air system
pressure may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep
hands away from brake chamber push rods and
slack adjusters; they may apply as air system
pressure drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or direct
them at anyone.
4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until
you have read and understood recommended
procedures. Some components contain powerful
springs, and injury can result if not properly dis-
assembled. Use only proper tools and observe
all precautions pertaining to use of those tools.
Removal (See Fig. 1) 1. Install the quick release valve with the exhaust
port facing down. Securely tighten the mounting
bolts.
2. Connect the air lines to the quick release valve
in the locations previously marked.
2
3 3. Perform the operating and leakage tests in Sub-
ject 110.
05/15/98 f421387
NOTE: Valve mounting inside the left frame rail shown.
1. Delivery Port
2. Balance Port
3. Supply Port
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, review Safety Precautions 100.
Failure to do so could result in personal injury.
Disassembly (See Fig. 1) 6. Separate the cover from the body and remove
the sealing ring and the quick release dia-
phragm.
2
Cleaning and Inspection
1. Clean all metal parts in mineral spirits. Wipe all
1 rubber parts clean.
2. It is recommended that all rubber parts and any
other part showing signs of wear or deterioration
be replaced with genuine Bendix parts.
3
Assembly
3 1. Install the sealing ring on the cap nut.
6 7 2 4
2. Install the double check diaphragm in the valve
5 body.
3. Install the cap nut. Tighten the nut 150 to 400
8 lbf·in (1700 to 4520 N·cm).
1
4. Install the quick release diaphragm in the cover.
5. Install the valve cover on the body. Tighten the
screws 30 to 60 lbf·in (340 to 680 N·cm) evenly
and securely.
6. Install the quick release valve, following the in-
9 structions in Subject 120.
3
7. Do the operating and leakage test as instructed
in Subject 110.
09/15/95 10 4 f421386
1. Supply Port 7. Double Check
2. Balance Port Diaphragm
3. Delivery Port 8. Body
4. Exhaust 9. Quick Release
5. Cap Nut Diaphragm
6. Sealing Ring 10. Cover
2 10
1 E
9
F 02/22/2000 f421487
2 1 G
1. Tractor Supply Port 10. Tractor Control Port
D 2. Auxiliary Supply Port (Primary)
C 3. Trailer Supply Port 11. Tractor Control
3 4. Check Valve Spring Port(Secondary)
B
A 5. Check Valve 12. Stop Lamp Switch
6. Trailer Control Port Port
7. Valve Spring 13. Plunger
1 8. Guide
4 9. Diaphragm (Double
Check Valve)
3 3
1 4 1
2 2 4
5 5
14 16 6
15 14 16 6
15
12 13
7
7 12 13
8
8
11 9 9
10 11
07/08/97 f421482a
10
1. Trailer Air Supply 10. Tractor Control Port 02/22/2000 f421483a
Valve (Primary)
2. Tractor Supply Port 11. Foot Valve 1. Trailer Air Supply 10. Tractor Control Port
3. Auxiliary Supply Port 12. Double Check Valve Valve (Primary)
4. Trailer Supply Port 13. Tractor Control Port 2. Tractor Supply Port 11. Foot Valve
5. Single Check Valve (Secondary) 3. Auxiliary Supply Port 12. Double Check Valve
6. Trailer Control Port 14. Hand Valve 4. Trailer Supply Port 13. Tractor Control Port
7. Spring 15. Stop Lamp Switch 5. Single Check Valve (Secondary)
8. Guide Port 6. Trailer Control Port 14. Hand Valve
9. Diaphragm (Double 16. Plunger 7. Valve Spring 15. Stop Lamp Switch
Check Valve) 8. Guide Port
9. Diaphragm (Double 16. Plunger
Fig. 3, Initial Charge Check Valve)
gins to move (against spring pressure) toward the Fig. 4, Service Brake Application
guide. When pressure reaches about 45 psi (310 Inside the TP–3DC valve, the higher pressure (pri-
kPa), the inlet valve opens. mary or secondary) moves the diaphragm to seal off
The TP–3DC valve is in the "run" mode, and ready the port at the lower pressure.
to receive and deliver a service brake application With the plunger bottomed against the guide and the
from either the foot valve or the hand valve. inlet valve open (as described earlier), the higher
pressure air flows through the valve to the trailer
SERVICE BRAKE APPLICATION control port and the stop lamp switch, applying the
(See Fig. 4) brakes and activating the stop lamps.
When the foot pedal is pressed, air flows to the TP– NOTE: While air pressure also reaches the TP–
3DC valve tractor control primary and secondary 3DC single check valve, the valve stays closed
ports. If the trailer control valve is also used, the ex- because supply pressure is acting on the other
ternal double check delivers the higher pressure side.
(trailer control or foot valve secondary) to the TP–
3DC Tractor Control secondary port.
3
3 1
4
2
1
4
5
2 16
14 6
15
16 5
14
12 7
15 13
8
6
12 13
7
11
8
10 9 f421485a
3
1
4
2
14 16 6
15
12 7
13
8
11
9
10 f421486a
Fig. 7, Anti-Compounding
If the red trailer air supply knob on the instrument
panel is pulled out while the service brakes are ap-
plied, the single check valve in the TP–3DC prevents
simultaneous spring and service brake application.
As pressure in the trailer supply circuit drops, the
spring in the TP–3DC valve forces the inlet valve
closed (as described above in "Tractor Protection."
Any pressure in the trailer control circuit is relieved
by passing first through the single check valve and
then exhausting at the trailer supply valve.
If the service brakes (hand or foot) are released and
applied again, the closed inlet valve prevents air
pressure from reaching the trailer control circuit.
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions.
1. Chock the tires and shut down the engine before
working under the vehicle. Releasing air from the
system may cause the vehicle to roll. Keep
hands away from brake chamber push rods and
slack adjusters; they will apply as air pressure
drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line con-
taining compressed air. It may whip as air es-
capes. Never remove a component or pipe plug
unless you are certain all system pressure has
been released.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or direct
them at anyone.
4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until
you have read and understood recommended
procedures. Some components contain powerful
springs, and injury can result if not correctly dis-
assembled. Use only correct tools and observe
all precautions regarding use of those tools.
Leakage Test
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, review
Safety Precautions 100.
1. Chock the tires, start the engine, and run it until
the air system is fully charged.
2. Shut down the engine and place the trailer air
supply valve in the emergency position (red knob
pulled out).
3. Disconnect the trailer control line hose coupling.
Then make a service application with either the
foot valve or trailer control valve and check for
leakage at the hose coupling with a soup and
water solution. Leakage should not exceed a
1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble in 5 seconds.
4. Release the service brake application and place
the trailer supply valve in the "run" position (red
knob pushed in). Connect the trailer control valve
to a test gauge.
5. Make a service brake application and note that
service air pressure is present at the trailer con-
trol line hose coupling.
6. With the ignition on, make and hold a service
brake application and note that the stop lights
function.
7. Disconnect the air line at the TP–3DC tractor
control port (primary) and plug the line. Using a
soap-and-water solution, make a service brake
application and check for leakage at the open
tractor control port. Leakage should not exceed a
1-inch (2.5-cm) bubble in 5 seconds.
8. Reconnect the air line to the tractor control port
(primary) and disconnect the air line at the trac-
tor control port (secondary). Then, plug the dis-
connected line. Make and service brake applica-
tion and check for leakage at the open tractor
control port using a soap-and-water solution.
Leakage should not exceed a 1-inch (2.5-cm)
bubble in 5 seconds.
IMPORTANT: If the valve does not function as
described, or if leakage is excessive, repair or
replace the valve.
9. Remove the chocks.
Installation
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, review
Safety Precautions 100.
1. Place the TP–3DC valve on the vehicle, and at-
tach it with bolts, washers, and nuts. Tighten the
nuts 11 to 15 lbf·ft (15 to 20 N·m).
NOTE: The delivery line from the trailer air sup-
ply valve is connected to the tractor emergency
port of the TP–3DC valve. See Fig. 1. The de-
livery line from the brake valve (double check
valve) is connected to the tractor service port of
the TP–3DC valve. Trailer hose assemblies are
installed in the trailer emergency and trailer ser-
vice ports of the TP–3DC valve.
2. Remove the caps from the air lines, and depend-
ing on the type of air hose, use the following in-
structions to connect the air hoses to the TP–
3DC valve:
If equipped with nylon tube air hoses, connect
the hose fittings to the valve ports, and tighten
the nuts finger-tight. Then, using a wrench,
tighten the nuts at least two turns, or until no
threads show on the fitting.
If equipped with wire braid hoses, connect the
hose fittings to the valve ports, and hand-tighten
the nuts. Using a wrench, tighten the nuts until
there is resistance. Tighten one-sixth turn more.
Do not overtighten.
5
2
1 3
PRIM
02/22/2000 f421391b
1
10
2
11
3 12
5 13
14
9
15
06/10/96 f421479
1. 1/4" Hex/Torx Screw 6. Valve Spring 11. Collar
2. Valve Cover 7. O-Ring 12. O-Ring
3. O-Ring 8. O-Ring 13. O-Ring
4. Diaphragm 9. O-Ring 14. O-Ring
5. Guide 10. Plunger 15. Valve Body
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air 2. Scribe a line across the valve cover and valve
brake systems and components, review body to ensure proper alignment during assem-
Safety Precautions 100. bly.
1. Remove the valve from the vehicle, retaining the 3. Remove the two 1/4-inch screws which secure
mounting hardware. For instructions, see Sub- the valve cover to the valve body and allow the
ject 120.
valve spring to expand until the valve cover can 1. Lubricate the O-rings, O-ring grooves, body
be removed. bores, and all sliding parts with the lubricant pro-
vided in the overhaul kit (Bendix silicone lubri-
4. Remove the cover O-ring and discard it.
cant #291126 or equivalent).
5. Remove the diaphragm from the valve body and
2. Install the O-rings on the plunger.
discard it.
3. Install the O-ring on the plunger and then the
6. Remove the guide from the valve body.
collar over the O-ring. Make sure that the collar
7. Remove the O-rings from the guide and discard is fully seated and firmly in place over the O-ring.
them.
4. Install the plunger into the valve body and the
8. Remove the valve spring from the plunger, then spring into the plunger.
the plunger from the valve body.
5. Install the O-rings in their grooves on the guide.
9. Remove the O-rings from the plunger and dis- 6. Align the indexing tab on the guide with the
card them. notch in the valve body and install the guide in
10. Remove the collar and the O-ring from the the valve body.
plunger. Discard the O-ring, but keep the collar. 7. Place the diaphragm in its recess on the guide.
Assembly
IMPORTANT: Before working on or around air
brake systems and components, review
Safety Precautions 100.
Torque Values
Torque Torque
Description
lbf·in (N·cm) lbf·ft (N·m)
Valve Cover Capscrews 30–60 (340–675) —
Valve Mounting Capscrews — 11–15 (15–20)
Table 1, Torque Values
5
2
1 3
PRIM
02/22/2000 f421391b
General Information
The Dana® Spicer® automatic slack adjuster serves
two main functions:
• As a lever, it converts the straight-line force of
the air brake chamber pushrod to torque on 1
the brake camshaft. Rotation of the camshaft
spreads the brake shoes out against the brake 8
drum, applying the brakes. 7
• As an adjuster, it maintains cam brake cham-
ber pushrod stroke and lining-to-drum clear-
ance automatically during normal use.
When the brakes are applied, the slack adjuster ro- 2
tates and moves the shoes into contact with the
drum. The clearance notch corresponds to the nor- 3
mal lining-to-drum clearance. See Fig. 1. Different 4
notches are available to meet the requirements of 6
various vehicles and brake duty cycles. As the brake
application continues, the rack moves upward and 5
rotates the one-way clutch that slips in this direction.
As the brake torque increases, the coil-spring load is
02/13/2001 f420074c
overcome and the wormshaft is displaced axially, re-
leasing the cone clutch. NOTE: Older slack adjusters may not have an installa-
tion indicator.
When the brake begins its return stroke, the coil 1. Clutch Assembly
spring load returns to normal and the cone clutch is 2. Enclosed Rack
again engaged. The rack is pulled back to its original 3. Installation Indicator (aligned with indicator notch)
position in the notch. Any additional travel brought 4. Clearance Notch
about by brake lining wear causes the rack to turn 5. Control Arm Anchor Bracket (design varies
the locked one-way clutch and rotates the wormshaft depending on the axle)
through the locked cone clutch. The wormshaft then 6. Worm Wheel
rotates the worm wheel and camshaft, adjusting the 7. Coil Spring
brakes. 8. Wormshaft
Safety Precautions
When working on or around a vehicle, observe the
following precautions:
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply
the parking brakes. Shut down the engine and
chock the tires.
• If the vehicle is equipped with air brakes, make
certain to drain the air pressure from all reser-
voirs before beginning any work on the vehicle.
Depleting air system pressure may cause the
vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from brake
chamber pushrods and slack adjusters, which
may apply as air pressure drops.
• Disconnect the batteries.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pressure
has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure. Al-
ways wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Do not remove, disassemble, assemble or in-
stall a component until you have read and un-
derstand the service procedures. Some com-
ponents contain powerful springs, and injury
can result if not properly disassembled. Use
the correct tools and observe all precautions
pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc. should be the equivalent size, type, length,
and strength of the original equipment.
• Make sure when replacing tubes or hoses all
of the original supports, clamps, or suspending
devices are installed or replaced.
• Replace devices with stripped threads or dam-
aged parts. Repairs requiring machining should
not be attempted.
• Prior to returning the vehicle to service, make
certain all components and systems are re-
stored to their proper operating condition.
WARNING CAUTION
Before working on or around air brake systems Do not use an impact wrench on the adjusting
and components, see Safety Precautions 100. hexnut. To do so may damage the slack adjuster
Failure to do so may result in personal injury. or camshaft.
6. Using a 7/16-inch box wrench, turn the adjusting
Removal hexnut counterclockwise to move the adjuster
arm out of the clevis. A minimum of 13 lbf·ft (18
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the N·m) is required to overcome the internal clutch.
parking brakes. Shut down the engine. Chock You will hear a ratcheting sound.
the tires.
7. Remove the slack adjuster from the camshaft.
2. If a rear axle slack adjuster will be removed, re-
lease the parking brakes and cage the power Installation
spring of the parking brake chamber. For instruc-
tions, see the appropriate brake chamber section
in this group. NOTE: For brake chambers that have pushrods
with threaded clevises, measure the pushrod
3. Remove the anchor bracket fasteners and the length before installing a new slack adjuster.
anchor bracket. See Fig. 1. With the brakes fully released, and no air pres-
sure to the chamber, check the dimension be-
2 tween the chamber face and the centerline of
the 1/2 inch clevis pin hole. It should be 2.25
inches (57 mm) for long stroke chambers, and
1 2.75 inches (70 mm) for standard stroke cham-
bers.
1. Check that the brake chamber pushrod is fully
retracted.
2. Apply antiseize compound to the camshaft
splines.
IMPORTANT: When correctly installed, the
brake chamber pushrod pushes in the direction
3 of the arrow on the slack adjuster housing.
3. Install the slack adjuster on the camshaft with
5 the adjusting hexnut pointing away from the
brake chamber. See Fig. 2.
2 1
3
1
05/01/2000 f420472b
2
3
A. Use only the adjusting hexnut to align the slack A
adjuster with the pushrod clevis. 05/01/2000 f420473b
B. Turn the adjusting hexnut clockwise.
NOTE: The installation indicator must be aligned with
1. Direction of Applied Stroke the indicator notch.
2. 7/16-Inch Box Wrench A. Rotate the control arm counterclockwise until it
3. Adjusting Hexnut stops.
WARNING WARNING
Manually adjusting an automatic slack adjuster to Do not operate the vehicle until the brakes have
bring the pushrod stroke within legal limits is been adjusted and checked for proper operation.
likely masking a mechanical problem. Adjustment To do so could result in inadequate or no braking
is not repairing. Before adjusting an automatic ability, which could cause personal injury or
slack adjuster, troubleshoot the foundation brake death, and property damage.
system and inspect it for worn or damaged com-
ponents. Improperly maintaining the vehicle brak-
IMPORTANT: To check the brake adjustment,
ing system may lead to brake failure, resulting in measure both the applied and free strokes.
property damage, personal injury, or death. NOTE: The location of the measurements is the
1. Adjust the brake lining clearance by manually same for both strokes but the applied stroke is
turning the adjusting hexnut clockwise until the measured with the brakes applied, while a lever
brake lining contacts the brake drum, then back is used to manually move the slack adjuster to
off the hexnut counterclockwise 1/2 turn. You will measure the free stroke.
hear a ratcheting sound.
5. Measure the free stroke, as follows. The free
IMPORTANT: Incorrect installation can cause stroke is the distance the slack adjuster has to
dragging brakes. travel to move the brake shoes against the drum.
2. Make sure the brakes are still fully released, then 5.1 With the brakes released, measure the
check the position of the installation indicator on distance from the bottom of the brake
the control arm. It must be within the indicator chamber to the far side of the clevis-pin
notch on the slack adjuster. hole. Record the exact distance as mea-
surement A.
If the indicator is out of position, loosen the con-
trol arm fasteners and repeat the control-arm ad- 5.2 Using a lever, move the slack adjuster
justment procedure. Then, tighten the bracket until the brake shoes contact the drum.
fasteners. Measure the distance from the bottom of
the brake chamber to the far side of the
WARNING clevis-pin hole. Record the exact distance
as measurement B.
Install and lock a new cotter pin in the clevis pin. 5.3 Subtract measurement A from measure-
Failure to do so could allow the pushrod to dis- ment B to determine the free stroke. For
engage from the slack adjuster, causing a loss of new brake installations, the free stroke
braking ability that could result in personal injury should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch (16 to 19 mm).
and property damage. For in-service brakes, the free stroke
3. Install and lock a new cotter pin in the clevis pin. should be 1/2 to 5/8 inch (13 to 16 mm). If
it is not in this range, refer to Trouble-
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the air system has at shooting 300.
least 100 psi prior to uncaging the brake cham-
ber. This will aid in the uncaging of the parking 6. Measure the applied stroke, as follows.
brake since the parking brake should be fully 6.1 With the brakes released (pushrod fully
released. retracted), measure the distance from the
4. If a rear-axle slack adjuster was installed, manu- bottom of the brake chamber to the far
ally uncage the parking brake. For instructions, side of the clevis-pin hole. See Fig. 4.
refer to the applicable brake chamber section in Record the exact distance as measure-
this group. ment A.
6.2 Apply and hold an 80 psi (551 kPa) brake
application. Measure the distance from the
bottom of the brake chamber to the far
Free Stroke
1 Free stroke is the amount of movement of the ad-
3 juster arm required to move the brake shoes against
the drum. With brakes released, measure from the
4
2 face of the chamber to the center of the clevis pin
"A". Use a lever to move the brake adjuster until the
A brake shoes contact the drum. The difference be-
tween the fully retracted and drum contact measure-
B ment "B" minus "A" is the free stroke. See Fig. 1.
The free stroke range should fall between 5/8 and
C
3/4 inch (16 to 20 mm).
06/07/2004 f430392
A. Fully retracted
Free Stroke Within Range
B. Drum contact using a lever If the free stroke is good, but the applied stroke is
C. Full brake application at 90 to 100 psi (620 to 689 too long, there is probably a problem with the foun-
kPa) reservoir pressure dation brake. Check the components listed in
1. Brake Chamber Table 3, and reference CVSA out-of-service criteria.
2. Push-Rod
3. Slack Adjuster
4. Clevis
Free Stroke Above the Range
If the free stroke is above the range and the applied
Fig. 1, Slack Adjuster Stroke Measurement stroke is too long, there is a problem with the foun-
dation brake or the adjuster. Check the components
listed in Table 2.
Automatic Brake Adjuster 3. Check that the brake chamber push-rod is fully
retracted; apply air to the release spring brake.
Checking Procedures If air is not available, the spring brake must be
If the brake adjuster is not maintaining the proper manually caged back.
applied stroke, before removing the brake adjuster,
4. Manually de-adjust the brakes (turn adjustment
check the condition of the foundation brakes. See
hex counterclockwise one full turn) to create an
Table 3, Table 2, and Table 4 for procedures. If after
excessive drum to lining clearance condition. A
inspecting the foundation brakes no apparent prob-
ratcheting sound should occur.
lems are found, inspect the automatic brake adjuster
to determine if it is operating properly. The inspection 5. Make a full service brake application.
can be performed on or off the vehicle using the fol-
lowing procedures. On release, allow sufficient time for the brake to
fully retract. During the brake release, observe
• Chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from rotation of the adjustment hex by attaching a
rolling. wrench on the hex or scribing the hex, which will
• Ensure that the air system tank pressure is 90 make this rotation easier to see. This rotation
to 100 psi (620 to 689 kPa). indicates that an excessive clearance condition
has been determined by the brake adjuster, and
• Check that the brake chamber push-rod is fully it is making an adjustment to compensate. On
retracted; apply air to the release spring brake. each subsequent brake release, the amount of
• If air is not available, the spring brake must be adjustment and push rod travel will be reduced
manually caged back. until the desired clearance is achieved.
• Do not use air tools on the brake adjuster. 6. If rotation of the adjustment hex is not observed,
refer to the foundation brake operational check
See Table 5 for on-vehicle inspection or Table 6 for and troubleshooting procedures in this subject.
off-vehicle inspection.
7. If the foundation brake assembly checks out
Automatic Brake Adjuster okay and the hex still does not turn, check the
control arm and mounting bracket for possible
Operational Check worn, bent, or broken components.
Functional operation of the brake adjuster can be 8. If the control arm and mounting bracket function
performed on the vehicle by using the following properly, replace the adjuster and hardware. See
procedure: Subject 110 for procedure.
1. Chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from
rolling.
2. Ensure that the air system tank pressure is 90 to
100 psi (620 to 689 kPa).
On-Vehicle Inspection
Component Cause Action
Realign the control arm and anchor bracket. See
Tight or dragging brakes Control arm mispositioned
Subject 110.
Improper anchor bracket If anchor bracket to control arm connection is loose, worn,
connection to control arm bent, or broken, re-secure or replace it.
Rotate the 7/16-inch adjustment hex one full turn
Excessive chamber push rod
Low clutch torque counterclockwise. If the torque is less than 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m),
travel
or no ratcheting sound occurs, replace the adjuster.
See Automatic Brake Adjuster Operational Check in this
Unknown
subject.
Table 5, On Vehicle Inspection
Off-Vehicle Inspection
Problem Cause Action
Place the adjuster arm in a vise. Rotate the 7/16-inch
adjustment hex counterclockwise one full turn to check de-
adjustment torque. After control arm stops rotating, a
Low clutch torque minimum of 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m) will be required and a
ratcheting sound should occur. If the torque is less than 13
lbf·ft (18 N·m), or no ratcheting sound occurs, replace the
adjuster.
Place the adjuster arm in a vise. Rotate the control arm
counterclockwise until it rotates to an INTERNAL STOP. If
Control arm slippage
the installation indicator goes past the indicator notch or
Adjuster not functioning does not stop rotating (arm slips freely), replace the adjuster.
properly
If torque is above 13 lbf·ft (18 N·m), scribe a line on the
adjustment hex. Manually pull the brake adjuster control arm
clockwise then push back counterclockwise until the
Unknown installation indicator stops in the indicator notch. The hex
should move in a clockwise direction when the control arm of
the brake adjuster is pushed back counterclockwise. If the
hex does not move, replace the adjuster.
Worn/missing control arm Remove and replace the pin and bushings. If the adjuster
wear bushing, and/or anchor has passed the above checks, re-install it on vehicle using
stud pin new hardware.
Table 6, Off Vehicle Inspection
1
6
4 7
8 9
3
10
10/05/2005 f422419
1. Mounting Studs 5. 41 Park Control (from dash 8. Exhaust
2. 42 Control Port valve) 9. Delivery
3. Exhaust 6. 41 Balance Port 10. Pipe Plug (QRV applications
4. Delivery 7. Supply Port only)
42 1 2 3 4
41
5
40
6
39 7
8
9
10
38
11
37
12
36
13
35
14
15
34
16
33 17
18
19
20
32 31 21
30
29
28 22
27 26 25 24 23
10/07/2005 f422420
1. Main Piston 15. O-Ring 29. O-Ring
2. Control Piston 16. O-Ring 30. O-Ring
3. Spring Guide 17. Lower Body 31. Spring
4. Upper Body 18. Valve Retainer 32. Ball Check Valve
5. Retaining Ring 19. Spring 33. O-Ring
6. O-Ring 20. Inlet/Exhaust Valve 34. Check Valve Guide
7. O-Ring 21. Lower Valve Guide 35. Supply Port
8. Spacer 22. Retaining Ring 36. O-Ring
9. Main Piston Spring 23. Exhaust Port 37. Spring
10. Static Piston 24. #10 Torx Screw 38. Inline Single Check Valve
11. O-Ring 25. Diaphragm Washer 39. Park Control Port
12. O-Ring 26. Diaphragm 40. Check Valve Cover
13. Static Piston Spring 27. Retaining Ring 41. Double Check Valve
14. O-Ring 28. Valve Seat 42. O-Ring
CAUTION
Do not attempt to disassemble the SR-7 valve.
The valve contains high spring forces that could
result in personal injury if disassembly is at- B
tempted.
2
Operation A
3
The operation guidelines in this subject represent the
relay-valve-based SR-7. A quick-release-based valve
functions similarly to the relay-valve-based version
with the exception that all air delivered to the spring
brakes passes through the park control port through C
the inline single check valve. The SR-7 quick release
style can be easily identified by the pipe plug in the
supply port of the valve. See Fig. 1. For vehicle-
specific plumbing diagrams, go to EZWiring. 1
10/11/2005 f422421
Charging the Spring Brake A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure
B. Control line pressure
Actuators Below 107 psi (737 C. Delivery to spring brakes
kPa) 1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Open
2. Balance Port
With the air brake system charged and the parking 3. Control Port
brakes released (by pushing in the dash valve but-
ton), air enters the park control port. This opens the Fig. 3, Charging the Spring Brake Actuators Below 107
SR-7 valve, to supply air pressure to the spring psi (737 kPa)
brake chambers. As illustrated, air pressure in the
chambers is below 107 psi (737 kPa) (nominal). See Parking
Fig. 3.
Actuating the park brakes (by pulling out the dash
Charging the Spring Brake valve button) exhausts spring brake air pressure
through the SR-7 valve exhaust port. See Fig. 6.
Actuators Above 107 psi (737
kPa) Service Application with Loss of
Once the SR-7 valve delivery pressure reaches 107 Air in Primary Circuit
psi (nominal), the inlet and exhaust are closed (valve With the parking brakes released (dash valve button
lap position). This maintains the spring brake hold-off in) and the absence of air in the primary circuit deliv-
pressure at 107 psi (nominal). See Fig. 4. ery, a service brake application from the secondary
circuit causes the pressure in the spring brakes to be
Normal Service Application exhausted proportionally to this application. This is
known as spring brake modulation. A 30 psi (207
During a service brake application, the valve remains kPa) service brake application will exhaust the spring
in the lap position. The SR-7 valve monitors the brake pressure to approximately 60 psi (414 kPa).
presence of air pressure in both primary and second- See Fig. 7.
ary delivery circuits. See Fig. 5.
B B
2
C
A A
3
D
C E
1 1
10/11/2005 f422422 10/11/2005 f422423
A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure
B. Control line pressure B. Control line pressure
C. Delivery to spring brakes C. Balance port—primary circuit pressure
D. Control port—secondary circuit pressure
1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Seated
E. Delivery to spring brakes
2. Balance Port
3. Control Port 1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Seated
Fig. 4, Charging the Spring Brake Actuators Above 107 Fig. 5, Normal Service Application
psi (737 kPa)
is released, the delivery pressure is exhausted from
Service Application with Loss of the spring brake chambers and the vehicle remains
parked using the spring brake actuators. See Fig. 9.
Air in Secondary Circuit
With the parking brakes released (dash valve button
in) and the absence of air in the secondary circuit
reservoir, the external single check valve in the sup-
ply port seals to prevent air leakage to atmosphere
from the SR-7 valve. The dash valve delivery air
flows through the inline single check valve and be-
comes SR-7 valve supply air. This air is delivered to
maintain at least 107 psi (737 kPa) (nominal) in the
spring brake chambers. See Fig. 8.
Anticompounding
The SR-7 valve provides anticompounding of the ser-
vice and spring brake forces. When the park brakes
are actuated (by pulling out the dash valve button), a
service brake application will cause the SR-7 valve to
deliver air pressure to the spring brake chambers.
Thus the vehicle is held stationary using a service
brake application. When the service brake application
B B
2
C
A A
3
D
C E
1 1
10/11/2005 f422424 10/11/2005 f422425
A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure
B. Control line pressure B. Control line pressure
C. Delivery to spring brakes C. Balance port—loss of primary circuit pressure
D. Control port—secondary circuit pressure
1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Seated
E. Delivery to spring brakes
2. Balance Port
3. Control Port 1. Inlet Valve Seated
2. Main Piston Moves Up
Fig. 6, Parking
Fig. 7, Service Application with Loss of Air in Primary
Circuit
B B
C C
A
1
A D D
E E
1
10/11/2005 f422426 10/11/2005 f422427
A. Secondary reservoir no pressure A. Secondary reservoir constant pressure
B. Control line pressure B. Control line pressure
C. Balance port—primary circuit pressure C. Balance port—primary circuit pressure
D. Control port—loss of secondary circuit pressure D. Control port—secondary circuit pressure
E. Delivery to spring brakes E. Delivery to spring brakes
1. Inline Single Check Valve 1. Inlet/Exhaust Valve Open
Removal Installation
1. If a new valve is being installed, install the fit-
WARNING tings removed from the old valve.
Before working on or around air brake systems 2. Position the valve on the crossmember bracket
and components, see Safety Precautions 100. and install the mounting nuts. Tighten to 15 to 18
Failure to do so could result in personal injury. lbf·ft (20 to 24 N·m).
3. Attach all the air lines as noted during removal.
CAUTION
4. Before returning the vehicle to service, perform
Do not attempt to disassemble the SR-7 valve. the operating and leakage tests in Subject 120,
The valve contains high spring forces that could Tests.
result in personal injury if disassembly is at-
tempted.
10/12/2005 f422428
1. SR-7 Valve
Operating Test foot brake valve has been applied several times,
the pressure reading on the gauge will drop to
the point where release of the spring brake ac-
WARNING tuators will no longer occur.
Before working on or around air brake systems NOTE: The SR-7 valve is not serviceable. If the
and components, see Safety Precautions 100. valve does not function as described, replace it.
Failure to do so could result in personal injury.
Leakage Test
CAUTION
Place the park control valve in the RELEASE posi-
Do not attempt to disassemble the SR-7 valve. tion; using a soap solution, coat all ports including
The valve contains high spring forces that could the exhaust port. A 1-inch (25-mm) bubble in three
result in personal injury if disassembly is at- seconds is permitted.
tempted.
NOTE: The SR-7 valve is not serviceable. If the
1. Chock the tires. valve does not function as described, or if leak-
2. Charge the air brake system to governor cut-out age is excessive, replace it.
pressure.
3. Place the parking control valve in the PARK posi-
tion. Observe that the spring brake actuators ap-
ply promptly.
4. Remove one line from a delivery port of the SR-7
valve and install a test gauge that is known to be
accurate. See Fig. 1 for the port locations.
5. Place the parking control valve in the RELEASE
position. Observe that the spring brake actuators
fully release.
6. With the parking control valve still in the RE-
LEASE position, note the gauge pressure read-
ing. Correct spring brake actuator hold-off pres-
sure is 107 psi (737 kPa) nominal.
7. Place the parking control valve in the PARK posi-
tion. The gauge reading should drop to zero
promptly. A lag (more than 3 seconds) in the
drop of pressure would indicate faulty operation.
8. With the parking control valve still in the PARK
position, gradually apply the foot brake valve and
note a pressure reading increase on the gauge
installed in the SR-7 valve delivery port.
9. Place the parking control valve in the RELEASE
position.
10. Drain the reservoir that supplies the rear service
brake circuit; apply the foot brake valve several
times and note that the pressure reading on the
gauge decreases each time the foot brake valve
is applied (spring brake modulation). After the
1
6
4 7
8 9
3
10
10/05/2005 f422419
1. Mounting Studs 5. 41 Park Control (from dash 8. Exhaust
2. 42 Control Port valve) 9. Delivery
3. Exhaust 6. 41 Balance Port 10. Pipe Plug (QRV applications
4. Delivery 7. Supply Port only)
6
8
9
2
13 12 11
1 14
10
11/06/2001 f430287
1. Compressor 6. Oil Separator 11. Purge Valve
2. Governor 7. Desiccant Bed 12. Exhaust
3. Purge Control Line 8. Purge Volume 13. Turbo Cutoff Valve
4. Control Port 9. Delivery Check Valve 14. Engine Turbocharger
5. Purge Orifice 10. Discharge Port
vapor adheres to the desiccant material in a process Dry air flowing through the center of the desiccant
known as adsorption. The desiccant cartridge, using cartridge bolt also flows out the cross-drilled purge
the adsorption process, typically removes most of the orifice and into the purge volume.
water vapor from the pressurized air.
The air dryer will remain in the charge cycle until the
Dry air exits the bottom of the desiccant cartridge air brake system pressure builds to the governor cu-
and flows through the center of the bolt used to se- tout setting.
cure the cartridge to the end cover. Air flows down
the center of the desiccant cartridge bolt, through a Purge Cycle
cross-drilled passage and exits the air dryer delivery
port through the delivery check valve. As air brake system pressure reaches the cutout set-
ting of the governor, the governor unloads the com-
pressor (air compressor stops compressing air) and
6
8
9
2
13 12 11
1 14
10
11/06/2001 f430286
1. Compressor 6. Oil Separator 11. Purge Valve
2. Governor 7. Desiccant Bed 12. Exhaust
3. Purge Control Line 8. Purge Volume 13. Turbo Cutoff Valve
4. Control Port 9. Delivery Check Valve 14. Engine Turbo
5. Purge Orifice 10. Discharge Port
the purge cycle of the air dryer begins. When the through the desiccant cartridge changes direction
governor unloads the compressor, it pressurizes the and begins to flow toward the open purge valve. Oil
compressor unloader mechanism and the line con- and solid contaminants collected by the oil separator
necting the governor unloader port to the AD-IP end are removed by air flowing from the purge volume
cover control port. The purge piston moves in res- through the desiccant drying bed to the open purge
ponse to air pressure, causing the purge valve to valve.
open to the atmosphere and the turbo cutoff valve to
The initial purge and desiccant cartridge decompres-
close off the supply of air from the compressor (this
sion lasts only a few seconds and is evidenced by an
will be further discussed under the Turbocharger Cu-
audible burst of air at the AD-IP exhaust.
toff Feature heading). Water and contaminants in the
end cover sump are expelled immediately when the The actual reactivation of the desiccant drying bed
purge valve opens. Also, air which was flowing begins as dry air flows from the purge volume
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions.
• Chock the tires and shut down the engine be-
fore working under a vehicle. Depleting air sys-
tem pressure may cause the vehicle to roll.
Keep hands away from brake chamber pus-
hrods and slack adjusters, which may apply as
air pressure drops.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pressure
has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure, and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Do not disassemble a component until you
have read and understood the service proce-
dures. Some components contain powerful
springs, and injury can result if not properly
disassembled. Use the correct tools, and ob-
serve all precautions pertaining to use of those
tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc., should be the equivalent size, type,
length, and strength of the original equipment.
Make sure that when replacing tubing or hose,
all of the original supports, clamps, or suspen-
ding devices are installed or replaced.
• Replace devices that have stripped threads or
damaged parts. Repairs requiring machining
should not be attempted.
8
7
11/05/2001 f430284
1. Mounting Strap
2. 5/16-Inch Bolt
3. Saddle Bracket
4. Lockwasher
5. Nut
6. End Cover Mounting Holes
7. Lower Mounting Bracket
8. Air Dryer
11
1
4
5
3 2
33
31 30
32
29
28 9
27 12 20
26
13 8
25 21
22 7
23
24
19
10 18 15
17
16 14
06/07/2004 14 f430283
1. 5/16-Inch Bolt 12. O-Ring 23. O-Ring
2. 5/16-Inch Lockwasher 13. O-Ring 24. O-Ring
3. 5/16-Inch Locknut 14. Retaining Ring 25. Retaining Ring
4. Upper Bracket Strap 15. Purge Valve Cartridge Assembly 26. Perforated Plate
5. Saddle Bracket 16. Shoulder Bolt 27. Check Ring Spring
6. End Cover 17. Exhaust Diaphragm 28. Check Valve
7. 3/8-Inch Capscrew 18. Purge Valve 29. O-Ring
8. 3/8-Inch Lockwasher 19. Purge Valve Housing 30. Retaining Ring
9. Lower Mounting Bracket 20 Purge Valve Piston 31. Heater/Thermostat Assembly
10. Cartridge Bolt 21 O-Ring 32. O-Ring
11. Desiccant Cartridge 22. Piston Return Spring 33. Safety Valve Assembly
Testing
During cold-weather operation, check the operation
of the end cover heater and thermostat assembly.
1. With the ignition on, check for voltage to the hea-
ter and thermostat assembly. Unplug the electri-
cal connector at the air dryer, and place the test
leads on each of the pins of the male connector.
If there is no voltage, look for a blown fuse,
broken wires, or corrosion in the vehicle wiring
harness. Check that a good ground path exists.
2. Check the thermostat and heater operation. Turn
off the ignition switch and cool the end cover as-
sembly to below 40°F (4°C). Using an ohmmeter,
check the resistance between the electrical pins
in the female connector. The resistance should
be 1.5 to 3.0 ohms for the 12-volt heater assem-
bly, and 6.8 to 9.0 ohms for the 24-volt heater
assembly.
3. Warm the end cover assembly to over 90°F
(32°C) and again check the resistance. It should
exceed 1000 ohms. If it does, the thermostat and
heater assembly is operating properly. If it
doesn’t, replace the purge-valve housing assem-
bly, which includes the heater and thermostat
assembly.
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
Air dryer purge valve is leaking With the compressor loaded, apply a soap solution on the purge valve
excessively. exhaust to test for excessive leakage. Repair the purge valve as needed.
The governor is inoperative. Check the governor for proper cut-in and cut-out pressures, and excessive
leakage in both positions. Repair or replace as needed.
Purge control line is connected to the Connect the purge control line to the unloader port of the governor.
reservoir or exhaust port of the governor.
Purge valve is frozen open due to an Test the heater and thermostat, following instructions in this manual.
inoperative heater or thermostat, bad
wiring, or a blown fuse.
Inlet and outlet air connections are Reconnect the lines properly.
reversed—unable to build system
pressure.
Discharge line is kinked or blocked. See if air passes through the discharge line. Check for kinks, bends, or
excessive carbon deposits.
There are excessive bends in the Discharge line should be constantly sloping from the compressor to the air
discharge line. Water is collecting and dryer with as few bends as possible.
freezing.
System is leaking excessively. Test for excessive leakage. Eliminate leaks, as needed. Allowable leakage is 1
psi/min (7 kPa/min) per service reservoir.
Purge valve stays open; supply air leaks Replace the purge valve assembly O-rings.
to control side.
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (May Look Like Whitish Liquid, Paste,
or Small Beads); or, Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste,
or small beads) or Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Possible Cause Remedy
This problem usually occurs with one or Refer to the appropriate corrections listed previously.
more of the previous problems.
Air dryer is not securely mounted; there is Vibration should be held to a minimum. Tighten the mounting fasteners.
excessive vibration.
Cloth-covered perforated plate in the air Replace the plate or cartridge as needed. High operating temperatures may
dryer desiccant cartridge is damaged, or cause deterioration of filter cloth. Check the installation.
the cartridge was rebuilt incorrectly.
Compressor is passing excessive oil. Check for proper compressor installation; if symptoms persist, replace the
compressor.
Heater and thermostat, wiring, or a fuse is Test the heater and thermostat. See Group 83 in this manual.
at fault, and isn’t allowing the air dryer to
purge during cold weather.
Desiccant cartridge not attached properly Check the torque and tighten if necessary. Refer to Subject 120 for
to the end cover. instructions.
2
1
12
13
3
17
4 14
16
11 15
5
6
7
8
9 10
03/17/2011 f430536
1. Governor Reservoir 7. Governor Unloader 13. Safety Valve
2. Delivery to Secondary Reservoir 8. Governor 14. Heater/Thermostat
3. Delivery to Primary Reservoir 9. Governor Exhaust 15. Pressure Protection Valves (4)
4. Pressure Protection Valves 10. Supply from Compressor 16. Auxiliary Delivery Ports (4)
5. Purge Valve 11. Mounting Bolts (3) 17. Auxiliary Delivery Ports (2)
6. Purge Reservoir 12. Desiccant Cartridge
12
11 13 14
15
10
16
7 8
6 A B C D
5 19
3 17 18
20
4
2 21
22
03/21/2011 f430537
1. Compressor 9. Unloader Port 16. Pressure Protection Valves
2. Engine Turbo 10. Governor 17. Primary Port
3. Safety Valve 11. Delivery Check Valve (open) 18. Secondary Port
4. Purge Control Channel Drain 12. Desiccant Bed 19. Auxiliary Ports
5. Purge Valve (closed) 13. Oil Separator 20. Purge Reservoir Drain Valve
6. Turbo Cutoff Valve (open) 14. Purge Orifice 21. Secondary Reservoir
7. Inlet Port 15. Purge Reservoir 22. Primary Reservoir
8. Purge Control Channel
The air then flows to the delivery check valve, to the purge reservoir. Air traveling through the delivery
safety valve and also through an orifice plug into the
check valve flows to the governor and the four pres- complete, the air dryer is ready for the next charge
sure protection valves. cycle to begin.
As pressure builds during the initial charge, the
purge reservoir fills. When the air pressure reaches Turbo Cutoff Feature
106 psi (731 kPa), the four pressure protection val- The primary function of the turbo cutoff valve is to
ves open and air is supplied to the primary reservoir, prevent loss of turbocharger air pressure through the
secondary reservoir, and accessories. If the pressure air dryer when the dryer is in the unloaded mode.
protection valves are preset to different values, the
valves open in order of the lowest to the highest set- During the purge cycle, the downward travel of the
ting when charging a flat system. purge piston is stopped when the turbo cutoff valve
contacts its mating metal seat in the purge valve
The air dryer will remain in the charge cycle until the housing. With the turbo cutoff valve seated (closed
air brake system pressure builds to the governor cu- position), air in the compressor discharge line and air
tout setting of approximately 130 psi (896 kPa). dryer inlet port cannot enter the air dryer. This main-
tains turbocharger boost pressure to the engine.
Purge Cycle
Figure 3 shows the purge cycle.
When air brake system pressure reaches the cutout
setting of the governor, the governor unloads the
compressor and the purge cycle begins. When the
governor unloads the compressor, it pressurizes the
compressor unloader mechanism and the dryer con-
trol port. The purge piston moves in response to air
pressure, causing the purge valve to open and the
turbo cutoff valve to close. When the purge valve
opens, water and contaminants are expelled. Air
flowing through the desiccant cartridge changes di-
rection and begins to flow toward the open purge
valve. Oil and solid contaminants collected in the oil
separator are removed by air flowing from the purge
reservoir, through the desiccant drying bed, and out
through the open purge valve.
The purge cycle lasts only a few seconds and is de-
tected by an audible burst of air at the air dryer
exhaust.
The reactivation of the desiccant drying bed begins
as dry air flows from the purge reservoir, through the
purge orifice, and into the desiccant bed. Pressurized
air from the purge reservoir expands after passing
through the purge orifice; its pressure is lowered and
its volume is increased. The flow of dry air through
the drying bed reactivates the desiccant material by
removing the water vapor adhering to it. Approxima-
tely 30 seconds is required for the entire purge reser-
voir of a standard air dryer to flow through the desic-
cant dryer bed.
The delivery check valve assembly prevents air pres-
sure in the brake system from returning to the air
dryer during the purge cycle. After the purge cycle is
11
10 12 13
14
9
15
6 7
5 A B C D
4 18
3 16 17
19
2 20
21
03/21/2011 f430538
NOTE: All pressure protection valves are shown open.
1. Compressor 8. Unloader Port 15. Pressure Protection Valves
2. Engine Turbo 9. Governor 16. Primary Port
3. Safety Valve 10. Delivery Check Valve (closed) 17. Secondary Port
4. Purge Valve (open) 11. Desiccant Bed 18. Auxiliary Ports
5. Turbo Cutoff Valve (closed) 12. Oil Separator 19. Purge Reservoir Drain Valve
6. Inlet Port 13. Purge Orifice 20. Secondary Reservoir
7. Purge Control Channel 14. Purge Reservoir 21. Primary Reservoir
Safety Precautions
When working on or around air brake systems and
components, observe the following precautions.
• Chock the tires and shut down the engine be-
fore working under a vehicle. Depleting air sys-
tem pressure may cause the vehicle to roll.
Keep hands away from brake chamber pus-
hrods and slack adjusters, which may apply as
air pressure drops.
• Never connect or disconnect a hose or line
containing compressed air. It may whip as air
escapes. Never remove a component or pipe
plug unless you are certain all system pressure
has been released.
• Never exceed recommended air pressure, and
always wear safety glasses when working with
compressed air. Never look into air jets or di-
rect them at anyone.
• Don’t disassemble a component until you have
read and understood the service procedures.
Some components contain powerful springs,
and injury can result if not properly disassem-
bled. Use the correct tools, and observe all
precautions pertaining to use of those tools.
• Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings,
etc., should be the equivalent size, type,
length, and strength of the original equipment.
Make sure that when replacing tubing or hose,
all of the original supports, clamps, or suspen-
ding devices are installed or replaced.
• Replace devices with stripped threads or da-
maged parts. Repairs requiring machining
should not be attempted.
3
3
3
02/28/2011 f430535
1. Air Reservoir 3. Capscrews
2. Air Dryer
WARNING
Before working on or around air brake systems
and components, see Safety Precautions 100. Fa-
ilure to do so may result in personal injury.
Replacement
Refer to Fig. 1 for desiccant cartridge replacement.
2
3
04/16/98 f421910
1. Desiccant Cartridge
2. Cartridge Sealing Ring
3. Threaded Base Post
2 3
7 4
6
5
02/23/2000 f430116a
1. Air Dryer Base 4. Capscrews 7. Spring
2. Gasket 5. Adaptor 8. Check Valve Body
3. Governor 6. O-Ring 9. O-Ring
1 3
2
05/04/98 f421924
1 3
2 4
04/13/98
5 f430117
1. Retaining Ring
2. Heater/Thermostat Connector Plug
3. Heater/Thermostat Assembly
4. O-Ring
5. Air Dryer Body
2 1
02/28/2011
1 f430534
1. Mounting Bracket
2. Air Reservoir
3. Strap Fastener
4. Frame Rail
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Problem—Constant Exhaust of Air at the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust; Unable to Build System Pressure
Possible Cause Remedy
Air dryer purge valve is leaking With the compressor loaded, apply a soap solution on the purge valve
excessively. exhaust to test for excessive leakage. Repair the purge valve as needed.
The governor is inoperative. Check the governor for proper cut-in and cut-out pressures, and excessive
leakage in both positions. Repair or replace as needed.
Purge valve is frozen open due to an Test the heater and thermostat, following instructions in this manual.
inoperative heater or thermostat, bad
wiring, or a blown fuse.
The check valve is inoperative. Refer to "Problem—Air Dryer Is Constantly Cycling or Purging."
The turbo cut-off valve is leaking. Repair or replace the purge valve assembly.
The purge valve control piston quad-ring is Repair or replace the purge valve assembly.
leaking.
Discharge line is kinked or blocked. See if air passes through the discharge line. Check for kinks, bends, or
excessive carbon deposits.
There are excessive bends in the Discharge line should be constantly sloping from the compressor to the air
discharge line. Water is collecting and dryer with as few bends as possible.
freezing.
Pressure protection valves in the air dryer Replace the air dryer; pressure protection valves are not serviceable.
will not open.
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste, or
small beads); or, Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Problem—Desiccant Is Being Expelled from the Air Dryer Purge Valve Exhaust (may look like whitish liquid, paste,
or small beads) or Unsatisfactory Desiccant Life
Possible Cause Remedy
This problem usually occurs with one or Refer to the appropriate corrections listed previously.
more of the previous problems.
The air dryer is not securely mounted; Vibration should be held to a minimum. Tighten the mounting fasteners.
there is excessive vibration.
Cloth-covered perforated plate in the air Replace the plate or cartridge as needed. High operating temperatures may
dryer desiccant cartridge is damaged, or cause deterioration of filter cloth. Check the installation.
the cartridge was rebuilt incorrectly.
Compressor is passing excessive oil. Check for proper compressor installation; if symptoms persist, replace the
compressor.
Heater and thermostat, wiring, or a fuse is Test the heater and thermostat. Refer to Subject 170 for instructions.
at fault, and isn’t allowing the air dryer to
purge during cold weather.
Desiccant cartridge is not attached Check the torque and tighten if necessary. Refer to Subject 120 for
properly to the end cover. instructions.
General Description umn shaft; the lower end yoke is internally serrated
to match the external serrations on the steering gear
A single aluminum steering driveline connects the input shaft. Each end yoke is secured to its respec-
tive shaft by a pinch bolt that engages a notch in the
steering column to the steering gear by means of a
telescoping shaft with integral yokes, an upper and a shaft.
lower end yoke, and a pair of universal joints. See The universal joint at each end of the steering drive-
Fig. 1.
13 14
9
12
8
7 11
10
5
4
5
3 6
03/13/2000 f461771
1. Power Steering Gear 6. Steering Driveline Boot 11. Upper End Yoke Assembly
2. Lower End Yoke Pinch Bolt Nut 7. Upper Driveline Boot Bushing 12. Upper End Yoke Pinch Bolt Nut
3. Lower End Yoke Assembly 8. Upper Steering Driveline Boot 13. Upper End Yoke Pinch Bolt
4. Yoke Shaft (inner tube) 9. Frontwall 14. Steering Column Assembly
5. Boot Clamp 10. Slip Yoke (outer tube)
Removal CAUTION
NOTE: It is not necessary to loosen the steering Do not use a torch to break the threads loose
wheel and column assembly to do this proce- when removing the lower end yoke. Heat will
dure. damage the seals in the power steering gear.
1. Position the front tires straight ahead. If possible, 6. Pull the steering driveline forward through the
drive the vehicle in a straight line for a short dis- upper boot and out of the engine compartment. If
tance, stopping at the spot where service opera- the upper boot is dislodged from its seat in the
tions will be done. frontwall, place it back in position in its seat.
2. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
chock the rear tires, and tilt the hood. Installation
3. Detach the upper driveline boot bushing from the IMPORTANT: When installing the replacement
boot and slide it down the outer tube. See Fig. 1.
steering driveline, be sure to connect the yoke
4. From inside the cab, disconnect the upper end shaft (inner tube) to the steering gear and con-
yoke. nect the slip yoke (outer tube) to the steering
4.1 Detach the lower portion of the steering column. See Fig. 1.
column cover and remove it. 1. Thoroughly clean the end yokes, the steering
NOTE: To facilitate assembly, mark the up- driveline, and the steering gear input shaft with a
clean, dry cloth.
per end yoke in relation to the steering col-
umn shaft before disassembling these parts. 2. Apply a thin film of grease to the yoke splines.
Use lithium-based grease, NLGI grade 2.
4.2 Remove and discard the pinch bolt and
nut from the upper end yoke. Do not re- 3. Insert the upper end of the new steering driveline
use the bolt or the nut. through the upper boot and partially into the cab.
4. Install the lower end yoke on the steering gear
CAUTION input shaft. Before installing a new 7/16–20 nut,
ensure that the flats, inside the lower end yoke
Be careful when disconnecting the steering drive- and on the steering gear input shaft, mate with
line from the steering column. Excessive force each other. The lower end yoke is properly in-
could damage the steering gear input valve at- stalled on the input shaft, with the pinch bolt cen-
tached to the opposite end of the steering shaft. tered in the input shaft notch, if the new 7/16–20
4.3 Remove the upper end yoke from the pinch bolt can slip in and out of the end yoke
steering column shaft. easily. Install the new nut and tighten it 55 to 65
lbf·ft (75 to 88 N·m).
5. Disconnect the lower end yoke.
5. Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex-
5.1 Remove and discard the pinch bolt and posed bolt threads and to the nut. See Fig. 3.
nut from the lower end yoke. Do not reuse
the bolt or nut. See Fig. 2. 6. Before attaching the upper end yoke to the steer-
ing column, ensure that the front tires are point-
5.2 Remove the yoke from the steering gear ing straight ahead and that the steering gear is
input shaft. Do not turn the steering gear centered.
input shaft when removing the lower end
yoke. 7. Slide the upper end yoke onto the steering col-
umn shaft, then install a new 7/16–20 pinch bolt.
Before installing a new 7/16–20 nut, make sure
that the pinch bolt is centered in the steering col-
umn shaft notch. The pinch bolt is centered if it
13 14
9
12
8
7 11
10
5
4
5
3 6
03/13/2000 f461771
1. Power Steering Gear 6. Steering Driveline Boot 11. Upper End Yoke Assembly
2. Lower End Yoke Nut 7. Upper Driveline Boot Bushing 12. Upper End Yoke Nut
3. Lower End Yoke Assembly 8. Upper Steering Driveline Boot 13. Upper End Yoke Pinch Bolt
4. Yoke Shaft (inner tube) 9. Frontwall 14. Steering Column Assembly
5. Boot Clamp 10. Slip Yoke (outer tube)
can slip in and out of the end yoke easily. Install 11. With the front tires pointing straight ahead, the
the new nut and tighten it 55 to 65 lbf·ft (75 to 88 steering wheel should be within ±10 degrees of
N·m). center as shown in Fig. 4.
8. Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex- If not, remove the steering wheel and install it in
posed bolt threads and to the nut. the correct position. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 46.02, Subject 100.
9. Inside the cab, install the lower steering column
cover. 12. Lower the hood.
10. Install the upper boot bushing.
10° 10°
1 2
10° 10°
10/15/98 f461694
1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
03/09/2000 f461773
Fig. 4, Steering Wheel Centered
Fig. 2, Disconnect the Lower End Yoke
14. Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel
from side to side to check for hard steering or
binding. If there is difficulty, check the assembly
and installation of the driveline parts. If the cause
is not the driveline, see the applicable steering
gear section in this group.
15. Remove the chocks from the rear tires.
03/09/2000 f461774
WARNING
Driving a vehicle with hard steering or binding in
the steering system could result in partial or
complete loss of steering control during vehicle
operation, possibly causing personal injury and
property damage.
11. Apply all of the grease from the kit to the internal NOTE: Ensure that (when relaxed) the boot
splines of the slip yoke. Ensure that all of the measures 4 inches (10.2 cm) before attempting
splined teeth around the diameter of the slip the next step.
yoke are filled with grease to a depth of at least
one inch. 19. Slide the small boot clamp over the small boot
end. Ensure that the end of the boot aligns with
the location mark made before disassembly.
WARNING
20. Using Oetiker boot clamp pliers, tighten the
Inadequate lubrication can cause steering drive- clamp.
line failure. Failure of a steering driveline can re-
sult in impaired steering and possible loss of ve- 21. Before installing the driveline assembly in the
hicle control, which can result in property vehicle, extend and collapse the assembly sev-
damage, personal injury, or death. eral times and ensure that the boot clamps are
secure. If the clamps are not secure, check to
12. Slide the new, large boot clamp over the splined make sure that they are properly tightened and
end of the slip yoke. seated. If the clamps are still loose, repeat the
boot removal and installation procedures and
NOTE: Be sure the upper driveline boot bushing install new clamps.
is installed on the slip yoke before inserting the
yoke shaft into the slip yoke.
WARNING
13. Insert the yoke shaft into the slip yoke. See
Fig. 1. Do not reuse the steering shaft boot clamps. Re-
use of the boot clamps can cause steering drive-
14. Extend and collapse the driveline assembly sev-
line failure. Failure of a steering driveline can re-
eral times to ensure an even distribution of the
sult in impaired steering and possible loss of
grease along the slip member.
vehicle control, which can result in property dam-
15. Thoroughly remove any grease from the boot age, personal injury, or death.
groove in the slip yoke and seat the large end of
22. Before attaching the lower end yoke to the steer-
the boot in the groove.
ing gear input shaft, ensure that the front tires
16. Slide the large boot clamp over the large boot are pointing straight ahead, that the steering
end. gear is centered, and that the driveline slides
freely.
17. Using Oetiker boot clamp pliers, tighten the
clamp. 23. Install the lower end yoke on the steering gear
input shaft. Before installing the new pinch bolt
nut, ensure that the flats, inside the lower end
WARNING yoke and on the steering gear input shaft, mate
Failure to properly install and tighten boot with each other. The lower end yoke is properly
clamps can allow entry of contaminants into the installed on the input shaft if the new pinch bolt
steering driveline which can cause steering drive- can slip in and out of the end yoke easily. Install
line failure. Failure of a steering driveline can re- a new pinch bolt nut, and tighten it 55 to 65 lbf·ft
sult in impaired steering and possible loss of ve- (75 to 88 N·m).
hicle control, which can result in property 24. Apply Torque Seal OGP F900WHITE to the ex-
damage, personal injury, or death. posed pinch bolt threads and to the locknut. See
IMPORTANT: Take care not to gouge or scratch Fig. 2.
the aluminum shaft or tear the boot when reliev- 25. Remove the chocks from the tires, and lower the
ing pressure in the boot in the next step. hood.
18. Relieve pressure in the boot by carefully sliding a
small screwdriver between the small diameter
boot end and the yoke shaft.
03/09/2000 f461774
05/06/2002 f461955
1. Clamp A 2. Clamp C
WARNING
Fig. 1, Slip Member Inspection Failure to replace the slip member assembly if
the limiting value is exceeded will cause impaired
4.1 The word "Spicer" on clamp A and the steering and possible loss of vehicle control,
dial indicator on the gauge should be par- which could result in property damage, serious
allel to the extension arm of clamp C. injury, or death. In order to avoid this potential
hazard, replace the slip member assembly when
4.2 Make sure the dial indicator button is per- the limiting value is exceeded.
pendicular to the surface it rests on and
that only the bottom surface of the button 7. Measure for broken back (radial looseness).
is in contact with clamp C. 7.1 Apply a load of 5 pounds to the shaft and
4.3 The outline of the gauge should line up perpendicular to the dial indicator face as
with the step in the outline of clamp C, indicated by the dashed line in Fig. 1.
but not contact it. See Fig. 2.
Then apply a load of 5 pounds 180 de- of the gauge so that the arm is perpendicular to
grees opposite to the shaft. the kit and the button rests on the lug of the end
fitting.
NOTE: Loop a wire or tie strap around the
shaft between the boot and clamp C. Using NOTE: The dial indicator button should not rest
a spring scale, pull on the loop to five on the lug ear of the aluminum shaft.
pounds. 5. Line up the inside edge of the bottom surface of
7.2 Record the total dial indicator travel, that the button with the inside edge of the end fitting
is, the difference between the high and lug ear. See Fig. 3.
low values. If the broken back value is
greater than the limiting value in Table 1,
replace the slip member assembly.
Limiting Values
Slip Member Assembly
U-Joint Kit
Broken Back Backlash
0.060 inch 0.040 inch 0.011 inch
(1.524 mm) (1.016 mm) (0.280 mm)
Table 1, Limiting Values
A
WARNING
Failure to replace the slip member assembly or
U-joint kit if the limiting value is exceeded will
cause impaired steering and possible loss of ve- 05/06/2002 f461958
hicle control, which could result in property dam- A. Line up the inside edge of the bottom surface of
age, serious injury, or death. In order to avoid the button with the inside edge of the end fitting
this potential hazard, replace the slip member lug ear.
assembly when the limiting value is exceeded.
Fig. 3, Correct Placement of the Button and Lug Ear
8. Remove the chocks from the tires and close the 6. Make sure the dial indicator face is parallel to the
hood. plane of the end fitting. Tighten the set screws
with your fingers.
Universal Joint Kit Inspection 7. Measure for universal joint backlash (circumfer-
ential looseness).
1. Shut down the engine and remove the key from
the ignition. Apply the parking brakes, chock the 7.1 While holding the end fitting motionless,
tires, and open the hood. use your other hand on one side of the
gauge to apply direct torque to the shaft.
2. Attach the steering shaft wear gauge, PN Turn the shaft in opposite directions as
STWI–2, to the steering shaft, but use only one shown by the arrows in Fig. 4. While
V-clamp at a time. turning the shaft, note the total dial indi-
cator travel.
3. Use clamp A for the slip yoke and clamp B for
the yoke shaft. 7.2 Record the total distance traveled by the
dial indicator at the U-joint, that is, the
4. Attach the V-clamp to the shaft near the U-joint
difference between the high and low val-
kit. Adjust the angles of the V-clamp and the arm
ues. If the lash value is greater than the
05/06/2002 f461957
WARNING
Failure to replace the U-joint kit if the limiting
value is exceeded will cause impaired steering
and possible loss of vehicle control, which could
result in property damage, serious injury, or
death. In order to avoid this potential hazard, re-
place the U-joint kit when the limiting value is
exceeded.
8. Remove the chocks from the tires and close the
hood.
General Description
A fixed-length drag link assembly connects the steer-
ing gear pitman arm to the axle steering arm. The
ball stud and socket assemblies at each end of the
drag link prevent binding when the relative angles of
the pitman arm and steering arm change, which hap-
pens when the vehicle is steered or the front axle
moves up or down.
Both ball-stud sockets of a fixed-length drag link as-
sembly are an integral part of the drag link; they can-
not be moved to change its length. See Fig. 1. The
ball studs and sockets are a dual-seat design.
3
3
6
4
5 2
2
1 4
7
1
03/09/2000 f461775
1. Grease Fitting 4. Tapered Ball Stud 6. Cotter Pin
2. Ball Stud Cover 5. Drag Link 7. Dust Cap
3. Castle Nut
Removal WARNING
1. Position the front tires straight ahead. If possible, Install and lock new cotter pins in the ball studs
drive the vehicle in a straight line for a short dis- and nuts. Failure to do so could result in disen-
tance, stopping at the spot where service work gagement of the components, causing loss of
will be done. Do not move the tires from the steering control, which could result in personal
straight-ahead position during removal or at any injury and property damage.
time while the drag link is removed.
5. Check the vehicle maintenance manual to deter-
2. Apply the parking brakes and chock the rear mine if lubrication of the drag link is required. If
tires. so, follow the instructions in the maintenance
3. Tilt the hood. manual.
4. At both ends of the drag link, remove the cotter 6. Check the axle stop settings, and adjust them if
pins and castle nuts from the ball studs. See needed. For instructions, see Group 33.
Fig. 1. 7. Check the settings of the steering gear poppet
5. Using a ball stud removal tool, remove the ball valves (TRW) or relief valve plungers (Shep-
studs from the pitman arm and the axle steering pard). Adjust them if needed. For instructions on
arm. checking and adjusting, see the applicable steer-
ing gear section elsewhere in this group.
6. Check the ball stud cover for damage. If needed,
replace the cover using the instructions in Sub- 8. With the front tires pointing straight ahead, and
ject 120. no load on the vehicle, the steering wheel
spokes should be within ±10 degrees of center
as shown in Fig. 2. If not, remove the steering
Installation wheel and install it in the correct position.
1. Insert the axle-end ball stud up through the bot- 9. Lower the hood.
tom of the axle steering arm, then install the 10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
castle nut, finger-tight.
2. Turn the steering wheel as needed to align the
hole in the lower end of the pitman arm with the
forward ball stud. Insert the ball stud in the pit-
man arm from the inboard side. Install the castle
nut. See Fig. 1.
3. Tighten both of the castle nuts:
• 3/4–16; 90 to 170 lbf·ft (122 to 230 N·m)
• 7/8–14; 160 to 300 lbf·ft (217 to 407 N·m)
If needed, continue tightening each nut
until a slot on the nut aligns with the hole
in the ball stud. Do not back off the nut to
align it with the cotter pin hole.
4. Install and lock a new cotter pin in each of the
ball studs and nuts.
10
5 11
8 4
4 6
3
5
2
2
1 3
7
1
05/09/95 f461029
1. Grease Fitting 5. Drag Link 9. Pitman Arm
2. Ball Stud Cover 6. Cotter Pin 10. Steering Gear (Sheppard M–100
3. Tapered Ball Stud 7. Dust Cap shown)
4. Castle Nut 8. Front Axle 11. Axle Steering Arm
10° 10°
1 2
10° 10°
10/15/98 f461694
1. 9 o’Clock 2. 3 o’Clock
Fig. 2, Steering Wheel Centered
Testing
WARNING
All steering mechanisms are essential to the safe
operation of the vehicle. Follow the instructions
in this subject exactly. Failure to do so may re-
sult in loss of steering, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
Torque
Size
lbf·ft (N·m)
3/4–16 90 to 170 (122 to 230)
7/8–14 160 to 300 (217 to 407)
Table 1, Torque Values
Grasp the drag link near the pitman arm end, push
and pull laterally to check for axial looseness in the
ball stud end. If there is looseness, replace the drag
link. For instructions, see Subject 100. If there is
1/8-inch (3-mm) looseness or more, do not drive the
vehicle until the drag link is replaced.
Grasp the drag link near the steering arm end. Push
and pull vertically to check for axial looseness in the
ball stud end. If there is looseness, replace the drag
link. For instructions, see Subject 100. If there is
1/8-inch (3-mm) looseness or more, do not drive the
vehicle until the drag link is replaced.
Pump fresh grease into the drag link until the old
grease is purged.
CAUTION
Use care when removing the ball stud cover with
a screwdriver. Damage to the sealing surface of
the socket forging could occur.
2. Using a screwdriver, press or tap on the flanged
portion of the cover and remove it from the ball
stud socket assembly.
3. Using a clean rag, wipe off all grease and dirt
from around the ball stud and socket throat.
4. Grease the socket throat and ball stud with a
multipurpose chassis grease NLGI Grade 2 (8%
12-hydroxy lithium stearate grease) or NLGI
Grade 1 (6% 12-hydroxy lithium stearate
grease); Grade 2 is preferred. Using the same
grease, fill the new ball stud cover three-quarters
full.
5. Position the socket assembly in a large vise, or
on a press so that the ball stud is perpendicular
to the socket stem.
CAUTION
Do not use a screwdriver, chisel, or punch (or
any other sharp-pointed tool) to install the ball
stud cover. Using these types of tools could cut
and damage the cover.
IMPORTANT: To install the stud cover, use a
section of tubing that has an inside diameter as
close as possible to the outside diameter of the
stud cover. Also, make sure that the inside edge
of the tube is chamfered (angled) to avoid cut-
ting the rubber stud cover.
6. Using a section of tubing, press on the new stud
cover. The cover is in place when the flanged
portion of the cover is seated on the machined
section (sealing face) of the socket forging.
CAUTION
Do not apply excessive pressure when pressing
on the seal. Too much pressure during installa-
3
3
6
4
5 2
2
1 4
7
1
03/09/2000 f461775
1. Grease Fitting 4. Tapered Ball Stud 6. Cotter Pin
2. Ball Stud Cover 5. Drag Link 7. Dust Cap
3. Castle Nut
02/14/2000 f461055a
1. Steering Column Bracket Assembly 2. Fixed Steering Column
Removal (See Fig. 1) Using a steering wheel puller, remove the wheel
from the shaft.
IMPORTANT: Be careful when you are removing
3
the steering wheel, or you could damage the
horn wires. A steel block measuring 1-5/8 x 5/8
x 1/4 inch (41 x 16 x 6.4 mm) can be used with
2
the puller to protect the wires during steering
wheel removal.
02/14/2000 f461055a
1. Steering Column Bracket Assembly 2. Fixed Steering Column
Fig. 2, Steering Column Assembly Installation
10° 10°
1 2
10° 10°
10/15/98 f461694
1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
Fig. 3, Steering Wheel Centered
A A
1
04/05/99 f461043
Removal of Steering Wheel 3. Without turning the steering wheel, remove the
wheel nut from the end of the wheel tube shaft.
Without an Air Bag See Fig. 1. Using a steering wheel puller, re-
move the wheel from the shaft.
NOTE: Remove the steering wheel only if the
IMPORTANT: Be careful when you are removing
steering wheel or steering column is being re-
the steering wheel, or you could damage the
placed. If the wheel or column is being removed
horn wires. A steel block measuring 1-5/8 x 5/8
to allow servicing of the dash, remove the steer-
x 1/4 inch (41 x 16 x 6.4 mm) can be used with
ing wheel and column as an assembly. For in-
the puller to protect the wires during steering
structions, see Subject 110.
wheel removal.
1. Position the front tires straight ahead. If possible,
drive the vehicle in a straight line for a short dis- Removal of Steering Wheel
tance, stopping at the spot where service opera-
tions will be performed. Do not turn the steering With an Air Bag
wheel at any time during this procedure.
IMPORTANT: To determine which type of
Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. supplemental protection system is installed in
2. Using a small screwdriver, pry under the outer- the vehicle, look at the module under the driv-
most ring of the steering wheel horn button. Lift er’s seat. The air bag/SPACE system and the
the horn button from the steering wheel hub, air bag only system installed prior to May 12,
then disconnect the wire terminals at the horn 2000 have a SPACE module. If the vehicle has
button. See Fig. 1. a SPACE system, gas cylinders are also located
under the driver’s seat. See Fig. 2. The air bag
3 only system that became available on May 12,
2000 has an air bag sensor module located un-
der the driver’s seat. See Fig. 3.
2
NOTE: Remove the steering wheel only if the
steering wheel or steering column is being re-
placed. If the wheel or column is being removed
1 to allow servicing of the dash, remove the steer-
ing wheel and column as an assembly. For in-
1
structions, refer to Subject 110.
1. Position the front tires straight ahead. If possible,
drive the vehicle in a straight line for a short dis-
tance stopping at the spot where service opera-
08/23/95 f461054 tions will be performed.
1. Horn Cable Assembly Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires.
2. Wheel Nut
3. Horn Button Cover
1
2
8
4
12/11/2000 f910459
A. Top view of Air Bag/SPACE System
1. Gas Cylinder (SPACE system only) 5. Power Distribution Module
2. DSS (Driver-Side SPACE) Connector 6. Clockspring
3. Driver-Side SPACE Module 7. SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
Fig. 2, Air Bag Harness Routing on Air Bag/SPACE Systems Installed Prior to May 12, 2000
6. Attach the steering column cover to the steering 10. Connect the batteries.
column using T25 Torx-head fasteners.
11. Remove the chocks from the tires.
7. Attach the fastener cover plugs to the steering
column cover.
8. Attach the lower steering column cover to the
dash.
9. Reactivate the air bag by connecting the DSS
connector on air bag/SPACE systems or by con-
necting the AS2 connector on air bag only sys-
tems built from May 12, 2000.
1 3
2
A
4
12/11/2000 f910460
A. Top view of Air Bag Sensor Module
1. Air Bag Sensor Module 5. Power Distribution Module
2. AS2 Connector 6. Clockspring
3. AS1 Connector 7. SRS1 (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
Fig. 3, Air Bag Harness Routing on Air Bag Only Systems Installed From May 12, 2000
2 2
3
08/17/99 f461731
07/21/97 f461198 1. Air Bag Module 3. Wheel Nut
1. Steering Column Cover 2. Steering Wheel
2. Steering Wheel Fig. 6, Lift Off the Air Bag Module
Fig. 4, Remove the Steering Column Cover
1
2
3
07/21/97 f461199
1. Torx Screwdriver 3. B-Panel Dash
2. Steering Wheel
2
3
5 4
12/14/2000 1 f461859
1. Steering Wheel 3. Air Bag Cable Assembly 5. Clockspring
2. Cutout 4. Tab
10° 10°
1 2
10° 10°
10/15/98 f461694
1. 9 o’Clock 2. 3 o’Clock
Fig. 8, Steering Wheel Centered
Apply the parking brakes and chock the tires. 5. Using a T25 Torx®-driver, remove the lower
steering column cover seal. See Fig. 3.
Wait two minutes after disconnecting the batter- 9. At the steering column, disconnect the air line
ies to allow the internal components to dis- between the foot-operated release valve and the
charge. Failure to allow the components to dis- steering column.
charge could cause the air bag to deploy, 10. Remove the upper end yoke from the steering
resulting in severe bodily injury or death. column shaft.
Undeployed air bags can be dangerous and are 11. Remove the nuts and washers that attach the
capable of deploying at any time. Follow the steering column to the mounting bracket.
safety guidelines and handling instructions in
Section 46.07, Subject 110. Failure to observe Remove the steering column assembly from the
safety and handling information could cause the vehicle. See Fig. 4.
unintentional deployment of the air bag, which
could result in severe injury or death. Installation
IMPORTANT: To determine which type of
supplemental protection system is installed in 1. Position the steering column on the steering col-
the vehicle, look at the module under the driv- umn mounting bracket. See Fig. 4. Tighten the
nuts 26 lbf·ft (35 N·m).
er’s seat. The air bag/SPACE system and the
air bag only system installed prior to May 12, 2. Connect the air line from the steering column to
2000 have a SPACE module. If the vehicle has the foot-operated release valve.
a SPACE system, gas cylinders are also located 3. Clean the end of the column shaft with a clean
under the driver’s seat. See Fig. 1. The air bag dry cloth.
only system that became available on May 12,
1
2
8
4
12/11/2000 f910459
A. Top view of Air Bag/SPACE System
1. Gas Cylinder (SPACE system only) 5. Power Distribution Module
2. DSS (Driver-Side SPACE) Connector 6. Clockspring
3. Driver-Side SPACE Module 7. SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
Fig. 1, Air Bag Harness Routing on Air Bag/SPACE Systems Installed Prior to May 12, 2000
4. Slide the upper end yoke on the column shaft, 5. Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex-
then install a new pinch bolt. Before installing the posed pinch bolt threads and to the nut.
nut, make sure the pinch bolt is centered in the
6. Place the turn-signal switch assembly on the
steering column shaft notch. The pinch bolt is
steering column. If the turn signal assembly is on
centered if it can slip in and out of the end yoke
with ease. Install a new nut. Tighten the nut to the left side of the steering column, align the
switch so that it is pointed directly to the left. If
one of the following torque specs:
the turn signal assembly is on the right side of
• 55 to 65 lbf·ft (75 to 88 N·m) for a 7/16–20 the steering column, align the turn-signal switch
pinch bolt and nut so that it is pointed directly to the right. Install
• 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m) for an M10 x and firmly tighten the mounting screws. Connect
1.25 pinch bolt and nut the turn signal harness connector.
1 3
2
A
4
12/11/2000 f910460
A. Top view of Air Bag Sensor Module
1. Air Bag Sensor Module 5. Power Distribution Module
2. AS2 Connector 6. Clockspring
3. AS1 Connector 7. SRS1 (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
Fig. 2, Air Bag Harness Routing on Air Bag Only Systems Installed From May 12, 2000
NOTE: Make sure there is slack in the turn sig- to May 12, 2000, or by connecting the AS2 con-
nal harness. This will allow the turn signal nector on air bag only systems built from May
switch assembly to move with the tilt column as- 12, 2000.
sembly. 9. Install the lower steering column cover seal.
7. Position the trailer brake control valve mounting Position the steering column cover panels on the
bracket on the steering column. Insert the horn front and back of the column. Both panels have
ground wire through the bracket. Install and fittings that should snap into the column. Install
firmly tighten the mounting screws. two fasteners and attach the two panels together.
8. If the steering wheel is equipped with an air bag, See Fig. 3.
reactivate the air bag by connecting the DSS 10. If the steering wheel is equipped with an air bag,
connector on air bag/SPACE systems built prior connect the batteries.
2
1
08/24/95 f461053
1. Lower Steering Column Cover Seal
2. Lower Steering Column Cover
3. Upper Steering Column Cover
Fig. 3, Tilt Steering Column, Left-Hand Drive Shown
A B
08/23/95 f461042
A. Tilt column viewed from the rear. B. Mounting bracket viewed from the front.
1. Tilt Column Mounting Studs 2. Steering Column Mounting Bracket
Fig. 4, Tilt Steering Column Mounting
10° 10°
1 2
10° 10°
10/15/98 f461694
1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
Fig. 5, Steering Wheel Centered
General Description
The Sheppard M100 integral power steering gear
provides full-time hydraulic steering. This gear is in-
stalled as an option on vehicles with a front axle ca-
pacity of up to 14,000 pounds (6350 kg).
The steering gear is mounted on the left frame rail. It
connects the steering driveline to an input shaft that
is connected to a sector shaft and the pitman arm.
Principles of Operation
When the steering wheel is turned, the force is trans-
mitted to the steering gear input (actuating) shaft via
the steering driveline. See Fig. 1. The input shaft is
connected to the rotary valve and a torsion bar.
When the input shaft turns, the twisting force on the
torsion bar turns the rotary valve, which causes the
fluid pressure to build up at one end of the piston.
The rotary valve shaft fits into one end of the piston
and the fluid pressure buildup, together with the re-
circulating ball mechanism, forces the piston to move
in one direction inside the bore of the gear housing.
The rack teeth on the piston mesh with the teeth on
the sector (output) shaft so that the sector shaft ro-
tates when the piston moves. When the sector shaft
turns, it moves the pitman arm. The pitman arm in
turn connects to the steering linkage, which turns the
wheels.
4
5
3
1 7
01/18/2001 f461822
1. Sector (output) Shaft 4. Torsion Bar 7. Input (actuating) Shaft
2. Piston Rack 5. Rotary Valve Shaft Ball Thread 8. Piston Ring
3. Cylinder Head 6. Bearing Cap Cover
Removal WARNING
IMPORTANT: Before removing the steering The steering gear is heavy. Use caution when re-
gear, see Section 46.11, Subject 300 to identify moving, lifting, or carrying the steering gear. Fail-
the problem. ure to do so could cause personal injury.
1. Place the front tires in the straight-ahead posi- 7. Remove the fasteners that attach the steering
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight gear to the frame rail. Remove the steering gear
line for a short distance stopping at the place and place the steering gear on a clean surface.
where the work is to be done. Apply the vehicle
parking brakes and chock the tires.
Installation
CAUTION 1. Align the holes in the steering gear housing with
the holes in the frame rail. Place a washer over
Do not turn the steering wheel or the steering each bolt and install the three bolts. Install a
shaft more than a half turn (except for alignment washer and nut on the end of each bolt and
purposes) during the removal and installation tighten the nuts 388 lbf·ft (526 N·m).
procedures. Doing so may damage the clock-
spring in a vehicle equipped with an air bag. 2. Install the pitman arm on the steering gear. For
instructions, see Subject 160.
2. Clean all outside dirt from around the fittings and
hose connections. 3. Connect the steering driveline to the steering
gear input shaft.
3. Drain the power steering system. Disconnect all
hydraulic lines from the gear, marking the lines 3.1 Clean the steering gear input shaft and
for later reference during installation. Seal the the inside of the steering driveline yoke.
lines and the fittings to keep dirt out.
3.2 Slide the yoke on the input shaft and in-
4. Disconnect the pitman arm from the steering stall a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the
gear. See Fig. 1. For instructions, see Sub- nut to one of the following torque specs:
ject 160. • 55 to 65 lbf·ft (75 to 88 N·m) for a
5. Disconnect the steering driveline from the steer- 7/16–20 pinch bolt and nut
ing gear input shaft. • 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 478 N·m) for an
5.1 Remove and discard the pinch bolt and M10 x 1.25 pinch bolt and nut
nut from the lower end of the steering 3.3 Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to
driveline yoke. the exposed bolt threads and the nut.
4. Connect the hydraulic lines to the gear as
CAUTION marked earlier or as shown in the plumbing dia-
Do not pound the U-joint or input shaft coupling gram in Specifications 400. Tighten the nut on
on or off the input shaft. Internal damage to the each fitting finger tight. Then, with a wrench,
steering gear can result. tighten the nut until there is firm resistance.
Tighten the nut one-sixth turn more.
5.2 Remove the steering driveline yoke from
the steering gear input shaft. 5. Position the steering wheel so that it is within
±10 degrees of center as shown in Fig. 2.
6. Clean the entire assembly before removing the
gear. 6. Connect the pitman arm to the steering gear. For
instructions, see Subject 160.
7. Adjust the automatic relief plunger. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 130.
11
6
10
9
11
6
11
6
6
5
6 8 13
5 17 16
12
7
4 15 14
5 6 18
19
20
3
1
2
03/22/2001 f461907
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
1. Pitman Arm 8. Steering Gear 15. Pinch Bolt
2. Castle Nut 9. Power Steering Pump 16. Lower End Yoke
3. Cotter Pin 10. Power Steering Reservoir 17. Input (actuating) Shaft
4. Pitman Arm Retainer Assembly 11. Bolt 18. Drag Link
5. Nut 12. Frame Rail 19. Axle Steering Arm
6. Washer 13. Nut 20. Front Axle
7. Sector (output) Shaft 14. Steering Driveline
Fig. 1, Sheppard M100 Power Steering Gear Installation
10° 10°
1 2
10° 10°
10/15/98 f461694
1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
Fig. 2, Steering Wheel Centered
Disassembly Assembly
1. Turn off the engine, apply the parking brakes, 1. Place the bearing cap cover face down on a
and chock the tires. clean work surface. With the garter spring visible
inside the oil seal, install the oil seal in the bear-
IMPORTANT: Do not remove the steering gear ing cap cover using a suitable size driver and an
for this procedure. arbor press. Coat the outside diameter of the oil
2. Open the hood. seal with clean chassis lube. The garter spring
will be visible when the oil seal is properly in-
3. Remove the pinch bolt on the lower end yoke of stalled.
the steering shaft.
2. Install a new O-ring in the bearing cap cover.
4. Remove the lower yoke from the steering gear Make sure the oil seal is properly installed before
input shaft. If necessary, secure the shaft so it proceeding.
will not interfere with your work.
3. With the lip of the salt seal facing out, press a
IMPORTANT: Do not pull the slip shaft out of new salt seal into the bearing cap cover until it is
the steering shaft. Installation of the slip shaft flush with the face of the cover. See Fig. 4.
requires rephasing.
NOTE: Tape the input shaft splines before in-
5. Place a drain pan under the power steering gear. stalling the bearing cap cover to prevent seal
Draining the system is not necessary, but some damage.
fluid will be lost.
4. Using capscrews, attach the bearing cap cover
to the bearing cap and torque the capscrews 53
CAUTION to 64 lbf·ft (72 to 87 N·m).
Do not turn the input shaft during repairs. Dam- NOTE: Two rubber boots are included in the
age to the steering gear will result. replacement kit. Choose the rubber boot that
6. Remove the rubber boot. See Fig. 1. will provide the tightest fit on the input shaft.
7. Remove the capscrews that attach the bearing 5. Install the rubber boot on the input shaft. Make
cap cover to the bearing cap and remove the sure the boot is below the spline and contacts
bearing cap cover. the bearing cap cover when installed.
IMPORTANT: The thrust washer will stick to the 6. Remove the tape from the splines and install the
bearing cap cover. Install the thrust washer on U-joint following the instructions in Sec-
the bearing cap before proceeding. tion 46.04, Subject 100.
7. Check the fluid level in the power steering reser-
8. Place the bearing cap cover on a clean work sur-
voir and fill if necessary.
face. Pry the salt seal out of the bearing cap
cover and discard the seal. See Fig. 2. 8. Start the vehicle and check for leaks.
9. Press the oil seal out of the bearing cap cover 9. Remove the drain pan and return the hood to the
cover using a suitable size socket or seal driver. operating position.
Use of an arbor press is recommended. See
Fig. 3. Discard the oil seal. 10. Remove the chocks from the tires.
1 3 6
5
4
16
14
15 15
1
13
14 12 7
17
2
22 18
19
20 11
10
9 8
21
04/26/2001 f461887
1. Automatic Relief Plunger 9. Bearing Cap Cover 16. Sector Shaft
2. Capscrew 10. Oil Seal 17. O-Ring
3. Cylinder Head 11. O-Ring 18. Sector Shaft Cover
4. O-Ring 12. Bearing Cap 19. Snap Ring
5. Steering Gear Housing 13. Piston Rack 20. Sector Shaft Boot
6. Frame Side Dust Cover 14. Oil Seal 21. Pitman Arm
7. Rubber Boot 15. Roller Bearing 22. Pitman Arm Retainer
8. Salt Seal
1 2
01/12/2001 f461852
2 01/12/2001 f461855
1
Fig. 4, Install the Salt Seal
01/12/2001 f461853
1 3 6
5
4
16
14
15 15
1
13
14 12 7
17
2
22 18
19
20 11
10
9 8
21
04/26/2001 f461887
1. Automatic Relief Plunger 9. Bearing Cap Cover 16. Sector Shaft
2. Capscrew 10. Oil Seal 17. O-Ring
3. Cylinder Head 11. O-Ring 18. Sector Shaft Cover
4. O-Ring 12. Bearing Cap 19. Snap Ring
5. Steering Gear Housing 13. Piston Rack 20. Sector Shaft Boot
6. Frame Side Dust Cover 14. Oil Seal 21. Pitman Arm
7. Rubber Boot 15. Roller Bearing 22. Pitman Arm Retainer
8. Salt Seal
01/24/2001 2 f461888
1. Sector Shaft Timing Mark
2. Piston Rack Timing Marks
11/20/2000 f461826
Adjustment
The only circumstances in which the automatic relief
plungers require adjusting are when the tire size is
changed, the wheel cut is reduced, or a replacement
steering gear is installed. Do not adjust the automatic
relief plungers under any other circumstances.
1. Turn off the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires.
2. Open the hood.
3. Verify that the steering gear has automatic relief
plungers. Steering gears with automatic relief
plungers will have the word AUTO cast into the
housing. See Fig. 1. Steering gears with auto-
matic relief plungers also have plastic caps on
the plunger bosses.
01/30/2001 f461900
CAUTION
Make sure there are no sharp edges on the
punch that could damage the bore. Take care
when using the punch to ensure that the relief
plunger bore is not damaged. If the relief plunger
bore is damaged, a leak may occur.
5. Using a 1/4-inch punch and ball peen hammer,
carefully drive the relief plunger in until it bottoms
in the bore. Repeat this procedure for the other
relief plunger.
6. Replace the plastic caps.
7. Set the automatic relief plungers. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 140.
8. Return the hood to the operating position.
9. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Setting the Automatic Relief 9. Return the hood to the operating position.
01/30/2001 f461900
There is a relief plunger in the cylinder head and one The spring pin, flange, and plunger body should
in the bearing cap. Follow the appropriate set of pro- be accessible for repair at this point.
cedures for the relief plunger you are repairing.
CAUTION
Repair Procedure for the
Do not allow the screwdriver bit to slip off the
Cylinder Head Automatic plunger body. Damage to the bore could result.
Relief Plunger NOTE: The relief plunger flange is held in place
with patch lock and the threads are staked at
1. Turn off the engine, apply the parking brakes, the factory. It will require approximately 15 to 20
and chock the tires. lbf·in (150 to 205 N·cm) to remove the flange.
2. Open the hood.
9. Carefully insert a screwdriver bit into the plunger
3. Remove the steering driveline. For instructions, bore to hold the slotted head of the relief plunger
see Section 46.04, Subject 100. body in place. Using an open-end wrench to hold
the flange in place, carefully turn the flange to
4. Verify that the steering gear has automatic relief remove the flange from the plunger body. See
plungers. Steering gears with automatic relief Fig. 2. Discard the flange.
plungers will have the word AUTO cast into the
housing. See Fig. 1. Steering gears with auto-
matic relief plungers also have plastic caps on
the plunger bosses.
1 3 4
2
01/30/2001 f461900
01/29/2001 f461903
NOTE: The plunger body has patch lock on the 01/30/2001 f461902
threads. It will require approximately 15 to 20
1. Plunger Body 3. Cylinder Head
lbf·in (150 to 205 N·cm) to overcome the patch 2. Center Punch
lock.
Fig. 4, Stake the Threads
12. Use a screwdriver bit and ratchet to hold the
plunger body in place. Using an open-end der head capscrews. Tighten the capscrews 114
wrench, install the flange on the plunger body to 124 lbf·ft (154 to 168 N·m).
until the flange contacts the spring pin.
15. Install the plastic cap on the plunger boss.
WARNING 16. Install the steering driveline. For instructions, see
Section 46.04, Subject 100.
The flange must contact the spring pin. If it does 17. Fill the power steering reservoir with an ap-
not, a leak or steering gear damage may result. proved fluid.
This could cause steering failure, possibly result-
ing in personal injury or property damage. 18. Start the engine. Check the fluid level in the
power steering reservoir and add more fluid if
necessary. Check for leaks.
WARNING
19. Set the automatic relief plunger. For instructions,
Use extreme caution when staking the threads of see Subject 140.
the plunger body. Hitting the threads too hard
could bend the plunger, which could cause steer- 20. Remove the drain pan.
ing failure, possibly resulting in personal injury 21. Return the hood to the operating position.
or property damage.
22. Remove the chocks from the tires.
13. With the flange against the spring pin, use a cen-
ter punch to stake the threads of the plunger
body. See Fig. 4. Be careful not to bend the Repair Procedure for the
plunger when staking the threads. Bearing Cap Automatic Relief
14. Align the marks on the cylinder head with the
marks on the steering gear housing and install
Plunger
the cylinder head on the housing using the cylin- 1. Turn off the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires.
2. Open the hood. 11. Carefully insert a screwdriver bit into the plunger
bore to hold the slotted head of the relief plunger
3. Verify that the steering gear has automatic relief
body in place. Using an open-end wrench to hold
plungers. Steering gears with automatic relief
the flange in place, carefully turn the flange to
plungers will have the word AUTO cast into the remove the flange from the plunger body. See
housing. See Fig. 1. Steering gears with auto-
Fig. 5. Discard the flange.
matic relief plungers also have plastic caps on
the plunger boss.
4. Place a drain pan under the steering gear.
5. Mark the bearing cap and steering gear housing
for reassembly.
6. Disconnect the steering driveline from the steer-
ing gear input shaft. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
7. Remove the plastic cap from the plunger boss.
CAUTION
When driving the relief plunger assembly, do not
allow the 1/4-inch punch to contact the bore and
do not hit the plunger with excessive force. Fail-
ure to follow these directions could result in 03/06/2001 f461890
damage to the steering gear or relief plunger as-
sembly. Fig. 5, Remove the Flange
8. Using a 1/4-inch punch and hammer, carefully 12. Remove the plunger body from the spring pin
drive the relief plunger assembly in until it bot- and discard the plunger body. It may be neces-
toms in the bore. sary to tap the plunger body to remove it from
the spring pin. Use of a 1/8-inch pin punch is
9. Remove the four capscrews that attach the bear- recommended.
ing cap to the steering gear housing.
IMPORTANT: Check the plunger bore for nicks
CAUTION or gouges before installing the plunger assem-
bly. Be careful not to introduce dirt or contami-
Do not force the input shaft when turning it out nants in the plunger bore when reassembling.
of the housing. The shaft could bind and steering
gear damage could result. 13. Coat the O-ring on the new plunger assembly
with a light coat of grease. Install the plunger
10. Separate the bearing cap assembly from the body through the spring pin. See Fig. 6.
housing by turning the input shaft out of the
housing. Turn the shaft until it stops.
WARNING
CAUTION The flange must contact the spring pin. If it does
not, a leak or steering gear damage may result.
Do not allow the screwdriver bit to slip off the This could cause steering failure, possibly result-
plunger body. Damage to the bore could result. ing in personal injury or property damage.
NOTE: The relief plunger flange is held in place NOTE: The plunger body has patch lock on the
with patch lock and the threads are staked at threads. It will require approximately 15 to 20
the factory. It will require approximately 15 to 20 lbf·in (150 to 205 N·cm) to overcome the patch
lbf·in (150 to 205 N·cm) to remove the flange. lock.
2
3
04/26/2001 f461901
1. Bearing Cap 3. Spring Pin
2. Plunger Body
WARNING
Use extreme caution when staking the threads of
the plunger body. Hitting the threads too hard
could bend the plunger, which could cause steer-
ing failure, possibly resulting in personal injury
or property damage.
15. With the flange against the spring pin, use a cen-
ter punch to stake the threads of the plunger
body. See Fig. 4. Be careful not to bend the
plunger when staking the threads.
16. Align the marks on the bearing cap with the
marks on the steering gear housing and install
the bearing cap on the housing using the bearing
cap capscrews. Tighten the capscrews 114 to
140 lbf·ft (154 to 190 N·m).
17. Install the plastic cap on the plunger boss.
18. Connect the steering driveline to the steering
gear input shaft. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
19. Fill the power steering reservoir with an ap-
proved fluid.
20. Start the engine. Check the fluid level in the
power steering reservoir and add more fluid if
necessary. Check for leaks.
21. Set the automatic relief plunger. For instructions,
see Subject 140.
22. Remove the drain pan.
DANGER
Do not use a hammer or apply heat to the pitman
arm to remove it. Doing so could damage the
sector shaft, the pitman arm, or the seals and
possibly lead to loss of vehicle control resulting
in death or serious personal injury.
IMPORTANT: Do not bend the aligning tabs out
of the pitman arm.
3. Using a punch, bend the retaining tabs out of the 02/09/2001 f461856a
pitman arm retainer.
Fig. 1, Align the Timing Marks
4. Lubricate the face of the retainer with clean
chassis lube.
IMPORTANT: Failure to lubricate the face of the
retainer will cause difficulty in removing the pit-
man arm.
5. Disconnect the pitman arm from the steering
gear.
5.1 Slide the pitman arm puller over the pit-
man arm. Align the hole in the puller with
the Allen socket in the retainer.
5.2 Insert the Allen drive socket through the 02/09/2001 f461856b
puller and into the retainer socket. Use an
impact wrench to back off the retainer. Fig. 2, Align the Timing Marks
The retainer will act as a jack screw to 2. Install the pitman arm retainer on the sector
disconnect the pitman arm from the steer- shaft. Be sure to align the tabs in the notches of
ing gear. the pitman arm. Coat the threads of the retainer
with antiseize compound. A coating of antiseize
Installation should be applied to both sides of the friction
washer if a new retainer is being used.
Proper installation of the pitman arm is critical to the 3. Torque the retainer 350 lbf·ft (475 N·m).
safe operation of the vehicle. Correct torque values
WARNING
Once the retainer is torqued to specifications and
locked in place, do not retorque the retainer.
Constant torquing of the retainer may cause the
pitman arm to come loose causing an accident
which could result in death or severe personal
injury.
5. Using a punch and hammer, bend the retaining
tabs of the washer in to the notches on the re-
tainer. See Fig. 3. Apply torque seal, OGP
F900WHITE, to the tabs.
01/18/2001 f461854
WARNING
Do the checks below. Failure to do these checks
could result in damage to the power steering sys-
tem and a loss of hydraulic assist. This could
limit steering control, possibly resulting in per-
sonal injury or property damage. 10° 10°
1. Place a thermometer in the power steering reser- 1 2
voir. Warm the hydraulic system to a normal op-
erating temperature of 150 to 160°F (66 to 71°C)
by starting the engine and operating it at low idle 10° 10°
while turning the steering wheel through several
full-left and full-right turns. With the engine run-
ning and the power steering system at operating
temperature, turn the steering wheel slowly from
10/15/98 f461694
stop to stop while checking the power steering
reservoir for frothing or a change in the oil level 1. 9 o’Clock Position 1. 3 o’Clock Position
(a sign that air is trapped in the system). If air is
Fig. 1, Steering Wheel Centered
present, inspect the system for leaking hoses or
loose fittings. Replace the hoses or tighten the
fittings as necessary. Bleed the air from the sys-
tem.
2. With the engine turned off and warm, check the
power steering reservoir fluid level using the in-
structions in Group 46 in the Columbia Mainte-
nance Manual.
3. At full-left and full-right wheel cuts, be sure the
axle stops (on the rear-side of the spindle) are
set so there is at least 1/2-inch (13-mm) clear-
ance between the tires and any fixed compo-
nents that are attached to the vehicle. Clearance
between moving components should be 3/4 inch
(19 mm). If clearance is less than the above, re-
set the axle stops.
4. Check that the relief plungers are set correctly. If
needed, adjust them. For instructions on adjust-
ing the automatic relief plungers, see Sub-
ject 130.
5. If there are still problems with the power steering
system, refer to Section 46.11, Subject 300 and
perform the troubleshooting procedures. Other-
wise go to the next step.
2
4
09/28/95 f460208a
1. Power Steering Pump 3. Power Steering Reservoir 5. Power Steering Gear
2. Supply Line 4. Return Line
Fig. 1, Plumbing Diagram of the Power Steering System
General Description
The TRW PS Series power steering pump supplies
power steering fluid for the operation of the power
steering gear. The main parts of the power steering
pump are the housing, input shaft, cam ring, rotor,
vanes, control valve, and cover assembly.
Principles of Operation
The input shaft, powered by the adaptor gear in the
engine gear case or by the crankshaft pulley, turns
the rotor, which is inside the cam ring. As the rotor
turns, centrifugal force pushes the vanes out toward
the surface of the cam ring. As fluid enters the cam
ring through the inlet port, the rotor vanes force it out
through the outlet port and into the system. The fluid
operates the steering gear. Eventually the fluid re-
turns to the power steering reservoir, and then back
to the power steering pump.
If the system pressure gets too high, a relief valve
inside the control valve is forced off its seat, shunting
fluid into a relief passage connected to the inlet port.
The fluid then recirculates inside the pump instead of
going to the outlet port. When the system pressure
drops to the correct level, the relief valve seats, clos-
ing off the relief passage to the inlet port. The fluid
flow returns to normal, flowing from the inlet port to
the outlet port and then into the power steering sys-
tem.
Installation
1. Using engine oil, lightly lubricate a new gasket
and the pump shaft.
2. Install the pump.
2.1 Install a new gasket on the pump mount-
ing flange, then place the pump on the
engine accessory drive mounting.
2.2 Install the washers and capscrews, and
tighten them 27 to 32 lbf·ft (37 to 43 N·m).
3. Connect the inlet hose from the power steering
reservoir to the inlet port. Tighten it 26 lbf·ft (35
N·m).
4. Connect the outlet hose from the power steering
gear to the outlet port.
5. Bleed the power steering system.
5.1 Check the fluid level in the power steering
reservoir. If necessary, fill it to the correct
level.
5.2 Start the engine and let it idle for several
minutes.
Wear safety goggles or glasses when disassem- 13. Turn the cover over and remove the large retain-
bling the power steering pump. Some of the parts ing ring.
are held in place by springs or snap rings, which 14. Press out the input shaft and ball bearing assem-
can release with considerable force, possibly bly.
causing injury.
15. Remove the spacer from the cover.
NOTE: Prepare for fluid drainage before disas- 16. Using care not to damage the bore, remove the
sembling the pump. shaft seal.
1. Remove the power steering pump from the en-
gine. For instructions, see Subject 100. Inspection
2. Carefully remove the end plug from the pump 1. Clean all the parts, using a solvent compatible
housing. Remove the spring if it did not come out with the power steering fluid. Then, using filtered
with the end plug. See Fig.1 . compressed air, dry all the parts.
3. Remove and discard the O-ring from the plug. NOTE: Replace any parts that are damaged or
IMPORTANT: TRW does not recommend disas- worn.
sembly of the control valve spool assembly. 2. Inspect the housing for cracks, stripped threads,
4. Remove the control valve spool assembly by a damaged valve bore, and damaged sealing
hand, or by pushing it with a small rod. Do not areas. See Fig.5.
push on the small screen in the relief valve seat 3. Inspect the cover for nicks in the O-ring seal
assembly. grooves. Make sure that the seal drain hole is
5. Using a solvent-proof marker, make a mark open, and that the seal bore is free of nicks and
across the housing and the cover. See Fig.2. other damage. See Fig.6.
Remove the screws and washers that hold the Make sure that the surface on which the bottom
housing and the cover together. Using a twisting plate rests is flat and free of nicks and other
motion, separate the housing from the cover. damage.
6. Remove the spring. 4. Check that the needles roll freely in the needle
7. Using a solvent-proof marker, draw a line across bearing. If needed, replace the needle bearing as
the top plate and the bottom plate. See Fig.3. follows.
8. Holding the cam ring in place, remove the top 4.1 Place the cover in a press with the flange
plate. Remove and discard the O-ring and side down. Using an 11/16-inch socket,
backup O-ring. press the needle bearing out of the cover.
9. Holding the bottom plate in place, remove the
cam ring. Note and record whether the dots near
25 24
26
27
28
29
30
31
30
32
33 15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
4
14 1 5
13
12
11 3
10
9
8
7
6
04/18/95 f460977
2
1. Pump Housing 12. Spring 23. Locating Pin
2. Boost Tube 13. O-Ring 24. Small O-Ring
3. Orifice 14. End Plug 25. Large O-Ring
4. Capscrew 15. Spring 26. Cover
5. Washer 16. O-Ring 27. Needle Bearing
6. Spool 17. Backup O-Ring 28. Shaft Seal
7. Spring 18. Top Plate 29. Spacer
8. Poppet 19. Cam Ring 30. Small Retaining Ring
9. Shims 20. Vane 31. Ball Bearing
10. Relief Valve Seat Assembly 21. Rotor 32. Large Retaining Ring
11. Control Valve Spool Assembly 22. Bottom Plate 33. Input Shaft
03/10/95 f460984
CAUTION
1
2 Do not allow the splines to contact the shaft seal.
The splines could damage the shaft seal.
4. Insert the input shaft (small splined end first) into
the cover. Do not allow the splines to contact the
05/12/2004 f461000a shaft seal. Insert the shaft into the seal by hand
1. Splines 2. Shaft Seal Area until the ball bearing contacts the cover.
Fig. 7, Check the Input Shaft
CAUTION
When placing the cover in a padded vise, do not
use excessive clamping force. This could dam-
age the cover.
5. Place the cover in a padded vise and install the
large retaining ring with the sheared edge out.
Turn the cover assembly over.
6. Install the new large and small O-rings in the
cover. Make sure that they are seated properly.
7. Using the marks made during disassembly as a
guide, install the locating pins. 03/13/95 f461006
24. Install the Woodruff key into the new input shaft
if it was removed during the input shaft replace-
ment.
25. Turn the pump by hand and make sure that it
turns freely.
26. Install the power steering pump on the engine.
For instructions, see Subject 100.
04/10/95 f461010
CAUTION
Evenly thread the capscrews into the cover. If not
evenly threaded into the cover, damage could oc-
cur to the seals, top plate, or housing.
18. Install the capscrews and washers. Evenly
thread the capscrews into the cover. Alternately
tighten the capscrews 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m).
19. Screw the relief valve seat assembly into the
control valve spool assembly. Tighten the assem-
bly 87 lbf·in (982 N·cm).
NOTE: Placing the spool assembly in a collet
will assist the tightening procedure.
20. Insert the valve spool assembly (screen end last)
into the housing. Make sure that the spool slides
freely in the housing.
21. Install the spring in the housing.
22. Install a new O-ring on the end plug.
23. Lightly grease the O-ring and the end plug
threads. Install the end plug and tighten 30 lbf·ft
(41 N·m).
A
5
7
3
04/25/2012 f910459a
A. Top view of Air Bag/SPACE System.
1. Driver-Side SPACE (DSS) Connector 5. Clockspring
2. Driver-Side SPACE Module 6. Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Connector
3. B-Pillar Cover 7. Air Bag Wiring Harness
4. Power Distribution Module
Fig. 1, Air Bag Harness Routing on Air Bag Systems Installed Prior to May 12, 2000
1 3
2
A
A
6
4
04/09/2012 f910460
A. Top view of air bag sensor module.
1. Air Bag Sensor Module 5. Power Distribution Module
2. AS2 Connector 6. Clockspring
3. AS1 Connector 7. SRS1 (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B-Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
Fig. 2, Air Bag Harness Routing on Air Bag Systems Installed From May 12, 2000
frontal collisions. The air bag is located in the steer- indicator on the dash. The SRS indicator comes on
ing wheel hub. when starting the engine and then goes off. The indi-
cator will remain on if there is a problem with the
WARNING system. The vehicle should be serviced if the indica-
tor does not come on or if it remains on.
Damaged seat belts or seat belts that were worn
in an accident must be replaced and their an-
choring points must be checked. Failure to do so
may result in personal injury or death.
The operational readiness of the air bag system is
indicated by a supplemental restraint system (SRS)
1 3
2
A
A
6
4
04/09/2012 f910460
A. Top view of air bag sensor module.
1. Air Bag Sensor Module 5. Power Distribution Module
2. AS2 Connector 6. Clockspring
3. AS1 Connector 7. SRS1 (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B-Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
2
1 2
07/21/97 f461200
07/21/97 f461198 1. Air Bag Module 2. Steering Wheel
1. Steering Wheel Lower Column Cover
2. Steering Wheel Fig. 4, Air Bag Module Installed
1
2
3
07/21/97 f461201
1. Air Bag Module 2. Steering Wheel
07/21/97 f461202
1. Air Bag Module Removed
2. Steering Wheel
Safety Guidelines for the Air • Do not attempt to disassemble the air bag
inflator unit or breach the integrity of the
Bag System sealed metallic inflator case.
• Do not cut, drill, braze, solder, weld, probe,
WARNING or strike any part of the air bag system.
The components and chemicals used in the air • Do not expose the air bag module to elec-
bag system are hazardous. The system contains tricity. Never probe a circuit on the air bag
components that use combustible chemicals; side of a connector unless the harness or
care must be taken when replacing or handling air bag is disconnected between the test
system components. Damaged or deployed air point and the air bag.
bag systems should be inspected for leaking pro- • Do not attempt to adapt, reuse, or install an
pellant chemicals before any attempt is made to air bag system in any vehicle other than the
remove, replace, or handle the components. If a specific vehicle for which it is designed.
leak is found, contact LifeGuard Technologies
(1-866-765-5835) for handling instructions. • Do not cut wires or tamper with the connec-
tor between the vehicle wiring harness and
The surface of the deployed air bag may contain the air bag module unless the troubleshoot-
small amounts of sodium hydroxide (which is a ing diagnostics specifically direct you to do
by-product of the gas generant combustion) and so. Cutting or removing the connector from
metallic sodium. Sodium hydroxide may be irri- the system will disable the safety shunt and
tating to the skin and eyes. Always wear rubber could cause unintentional deployment.
gloves and safety glasses when handling a de-
ployed air bag. Immediately wash your hands and • Allow deployed air bag systems to cool
exposed skin areas with water and a mild soap. after deployment.
Flush your eyes immediately if exposed to so- • Air bag systems should be deployed in an
dium hydroxide. open area or outdoors to prevent accidental
Consider undeployed air bags to be dangerous fires.
and capable of deploying at any time. Before per- • Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses
forming any work on these systems, review all when handling a deployed air bag.
service literature and comply with the following
warnings and precautions. Unintentional or im- • Store, transport, dispose of, and recycle air
proper deployment of the air bag system can re- bag system components in accordance with
sult in injury or death. all applicable federal, state, and local regu-
lations.
• Carry undeployed air bags with the bag and
the trim cover pointed away from your • When reactivating the system for the first
body. time after repairs have been made, stand
outside of the cab and away from the front
• Place undeployed air bags face up on a of the air bag while turning on the ignition.
surface in an enclosed area. Check that the SRS indicator comes on for
• Do not place objects near or on top of an a few seconds and then goes out. Make
undeployed air bag. sure there are no active fault codes.
• Store undeployed and undamaged air bag • Keep all heavy objects in the cab secured.
modules in a cool, dry, enclosed area.
• Keep all liquids, acids, halogens, heavy
metals, and heavy salts away from the air
bag system. Do not allow system chemicals
to contact other liquids, combustibles, and
flammable materials. Doing so could cause
chemical burns or personal injury.
A
5
7
3
04/25/2012 f910459a
A. Top view of Air Bag/SPACE System
1. Driver-Side SPACE (DSS) Connector 5. Clockspring
2. Driver-Side SPACE Module 6. Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Connector
3. B-Pillar Cover 7. Air Bag Wiring Harness
4. Power Distribution Module
Fig. 1, Air Bag Harness Routing on Air Bag Systems Installed Prior to May 12, 2000
1 3
2
A
A
6
4
04/09/2012 f910460
A. Top view of Air Bag Sensor Module.
1. Air Bag Sensor Module 5. Power Distribution Module
2. AS2 Connector 6. Clockspring
3. AS1 Connector 7. SRS1 (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B-Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
Fig. 2, Air Bag Harness Routing on Air Bag Systems Installed From May 12, 2000
8. Loosen the screws that attach the clockspring to • The SRS indicator remains on;
the clockspring bracket. It is not necessary to
• The SRS indicator does not come on for
remove the screws in order to remove the clock-
several seconds before going out.
spring.
9. Remove the clockspring.
10. If the steering column shaft has been allowed to
rotate independently of the front wheels since the
clockspring replacement procedure began, re-
center the clockspring.
10.1 While holding the lower portion of the
clockspring stationary, rotate the upper
portion counterclockwise until resistance is
felt. Stop rotation as soon as some resis-
tance is felt or the clockspring may be-
come damaged.
10.2 While holding the lower portion of the
clockspring stationary, rotate the upper
portion clockwise three full turns.
10.3 Turn the upper portion of the clockspring
clockwise until the the mounting holes in
the upper portion of the clockspring are
aligned with the screws in the lower por-
tion of the clockspring. Tape the upper
and lower portions together until the steer-
ing wheel is installed.
11. Using screws, attach the clockspring to the
clockspring bracket.
12. Reconnect the connector from the clockspring to
the air bag wiring harness. If the clockspring is
taped together, remove the tape.
13. Install the steering wheel; see Sec-
tion 46.03, Subject 100.
14. Install the air bag; see Subject 100.
15. Reconnect the AS2 connector. See Fig. 2.
16. Make sure nobody is in the cab, then connect
the batteries.
17. While standing outside the cab and away from
the front of the air bag, turn the ignition on. The
SRS indicator should come on for several sec-
onds and then go out. If the SRS indicator goes
out and there are no active fault codes, the sys-
tem is functioning properly.
Follow the appropriate procedure in Trouble-
shooting 300, if:
• There are active fault codes;
1
2
1 3
• On vehicles with an EzyRider seat, use sensor module. Failure to follow these precau-
two capscrews to attach the sensor module tions may result in the air bag being unintention-
to the cab floor. Tighten the capscrews 25 ally deployed, which could cause personal injury
to 29 lbf·ft (34 to 39 N·m). or property damage.
• On vehicles with a nonproprietary seat, use 8. Attach the wiring to the sensor module.
two capscrews to attach both the sensor 9. Using two plastic retainers, attach the sensor
module and the seat to the cab floor. If the module cover to the sensor module.
front mounting capscrews for the seat were
loosened, tighten the capscrews. Tighten 10. Lower the seat. If the seat is equipped with a
the capscrews 35 to 40 lbf·ft (47 to 54 seat shroud, lower the shroud around the base
N·m). of the seat.
11. Connect the batteries.
WARNING
Before attaching the wiring to the sensor module
and before connecting the batteries, be sure to
attach and tighten the mounting capscrews to the
NOTE: The following procedures are for the air 10. Reconnect the batteries.
bag system that became available May 12,
2000. Reactivating the Air Bag
Deactivating the Air Bag System
System NOTE: Reactivate the air bag only when di-
rected to do so in the troubleshooting proce-
dure.
WARNING
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
Consider undeployed air bags to be dangerous the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
and capable of deploying at any time. Before per- tires.
forming any work on the air bag system compo-
nents, review all service literature and comply 2. Make sure that the connectors in the air bag sys-
with the warnings and precautions in this subject tem are connected, except for the air bag con-
and in Subject 110. Unintentional or improper de- nector and the AS2 connector.
ployment of the air bag system can result in in- 3. Disconnect the batteries and wait two minutes
jury or death. before proceeding.
NOTE: Deactivate the air bag only when di-
rected to do so in the troubleshooting proce- WARNING
dure. Wait two minutes after disconnecting the batter-
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down ies to allow the internal components to dis-
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the charge. Failure to allow the components to dis-
tires. charge could cause the air bag to deploy,
2. Disconnect the batteries and wait two minutes resulting in severe bodily injury or death.
before proceeding. 4. Connect the electrical wiring from the clockspring
(and from the horn switch connector if equipped)
WARNING to the new air bag module, then position the air
bag module on the steering wheel.
Wait two minutes after disconnecting the batter- 5. Tighten the air bag retaining screws at the bot-
ies to allow the internal components to dis- tom of the steering wheel.
charge. Failure to allow the components to dis-
charge could cause the air bag to deploy, 6. Using the fasteners, attach the steering wheel
resulting in severe bodily injury or death. lower column cover to the dash.
3. Disconnect the AS2 connector. See Fig. 1. 7. Replace the fastener plugs.
4. Remove the fastener cover plugs from the steer- 8. Connect the AS2 connector. See Fig. 1.
ing wheel lower column cover. See Fig. 2. 9. Make sure nobody is in the cab, then connect
5. Remove the fasteners and the column cover. the batteries.
6. Loosen the retainer screws underneath the steer- 10. While standing outside the cab and away from
ing wheel. See Fig. 3. the front of the air bag, turn the ignition on. The
SRS indicator should come on for several sec-
7. Carefully lift the air bag from the steering wheel onds and then go out. If the SRS indicator goes
and disconnect the air bag connector (and the out and there are no active fault codes, the sys-
horn switch connector if equipped) from the air tem is functioning properly.
bag. See Fig. 4, Fig. 5, and Fig. 6.
Follow the appropriate procedure in Trouble-
8. Remove the air bag. shooting 300, if:
9. Reconnect the AS2 connector. • There are active fault codes;
1 3
2
A
A
6
4
04/09/2012 f910460
A. Top view of Air Bag Sensor Module.
1. Air Bag Sensor Module 5. Power Distribution Module
2. AS2 Connector 6. Clockspring
3. AS1 Connector 7. SRS1 (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B-Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
2
1 2
07/21/97 f461200
07/21/97 f461198 1. Air Bag Module 2. Steering Wheel
1. Steering Wheel Lower Column Cover
2. Steering Wheel Fig. 4, Air Bag Module Installed
1
2
3
07/21/97 f461201
1. Air Bag Module 2. Steering Wheel
07/21/97 f461202
1. Air Bag Module Removed
2. Steering Wheel
1 3
2
A
4
12/11/2000 f910460
A. Top view of air bag sensor module.
1. Air Bag Sensor Module 5. Power Distribution Module
2. AS2 Connector 6. Clockspring
3. AS1 Connector 7. SRS1 (Supplemental Restraint System) Connector
4. B Pillar Cover 8. Air Bag Wiring Harness
Troubleshooting the Air Bag vehicles manufactured before December 4th, 2006.
See Fig. 3 for vehicles manufactured on or after De-
System cember 4th, 2006.
PDM_MAIN
CB13 CB13 IGN_BUS FUSE
10A 1 81C 81C
JDO E A1
2 454 5A
closed MCH_H_PDM_PDB B1
MCH_H_IGN_BRK 2
AS1
DIGN_U_BPLR_JCT_BLK
J1587+ J1587+ B
SAE D/L J1587+ C A 2A
J1587− J1587− B
SAE D/L J1587− D B 2B
GA_U_CLUSTER
454L 454
SRS WARN LP E D1 D1 R AIR BAG
MCH_H_CLST_RH_RC2
AIR BAG SENSOR MODULE
S1
GND GND
10
24A
5
11
2 BSC_C_GND_STUD_T_BRD_LH
7
6 REF LTEXT
3
1
12
9
MCH_H_STR_COL_LS5
LTEXT_U_TURN_SW
24A
REF DASH_OTHER A
MCH_H_HORN_LS4
454G
EMI SHIELD GND B
AIR BAG
AS1 CLOCKSPRING CONNECTOR
SRS1
AS2 VIO VIO
1 2
454+ 2 1
DRIVER SRS+ 1
454− GR GR
DRIVER SRS− 2 3
4 0.47uF
5
09/27/2001 f543424
Fig. 2, Air Bag System Wiring Diagram, Before December 4th, 2006
PDM_MAIN
CB13 CB13 IGN_BUS FUSE
10A 1 81C 81C
BE0 E A1
2 454 5A
closed MCH_H_PDM_PDB B1
SRS_DASH_O_PD64
AS1
DL_D_JCT_BLK_DL
J1587+ J1587+ B
SAE D/L J1587+ C A 2A
J1587− J1587− B
SAE D/L J1587− D B 2B
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
454L 454
SRS WARN LP E C14 SRS WARNING LP
MCH_H_ICU_LC2
AIR BAG SENSOR MODULE
S1
GND GND
10
24A
5
11
2 BSC_C_GND_STUD_T_BRD_LH
7
6 REF LTEXT
3
1
12
9
MCH_H_STR_COL_LS5
LTEXT_U_TURN_SW
24A
REF DASH_OTHER A
MCH_H_HORN_LS4
454G
EMI SHIELD GND B
STEERING WHEEL AIR BAG
AS1 CLOCKSPRING CONNECTOR
SRS1
AS2 VIO VIO
1 2
454+ 2 1
DRIVER SRS+ 1
454− GR GR
DRIVER SRS− 2 3
4 0.47uF
5
11/17/2008 f545387
Fig. 3, Air Bag System Wiring Diagram, On or After December 4th, 2006
232-254-12 SRS module bad intelligent device (internal error)* SRS module has an internal
memory error and must be
replaced.
* This fault cannot be cleared from memory
YES
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the SRS1
The fault is still connector. Turn the
FMI 03. ignition back on and
check the fault again.
Reactivate
the system.
10/31/2000 f040475
Fig. 4, Troubleshooting Diagram for Fault Code 232-001-03, Air Bag Loop Wiring—Short to Power
YES
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the SRS1
The fault is still connector. Turn the
FMI 04 ignition back on and
check the fault again.
Reactivate
the system.
10/31/2000 f040476
Fig. 5, Troubleshooting Diagram for Fault Code 232-001-04, Air Bag Loop Wiring—Short to Ground
Check the AS2 connector at The short circuit The fault is still
the sensor module located fault FMI 06 open circuit (FMI 05).
Any loose, in the cover below the is now active.
broken, or missing YES driver side B−pillar.
contacts? Turn the ignition off.
Turn the ignition off. Remove the Jumper.
NO Remove the jumper
NO and reconnect the
AS2 connector. The sensor module
Check the SRS1 Is it Any loose, is faulty.
connector located in plugged in YES broken, or missing Replace the module.
the steering column. properly? contacts? Connect a jumper
between the two
contacts on the sensor Reactivate
NO YES module side of SRS1 the system.
connector.
Reconnect the
connector.
Repair the connector as
Turn the ignition
necessary. If the problem
Reactivate on and check the
is in the clockspring
the system. fault code again.
connector, replace the
clockspring. See next page.
Check the wiring between the
steering column connector Is fault The short circuit
Turn the ignition off. The fault changed to code FMI 06
SRS1 and the sensor module NO YES fault (FMI 06) is
Remove the Jumper. open circuit (FMI 05). still active?
connector AS2. still active.
Repair as necessary.
02/02/2001 f040481
Fig. 6, Troubleshooting Diagram for Fault Code 232-001-05, Air Bag Loop Wiring—Open Circuit, Part 1
Does the
resistance
Is the YES increase to
Replace the
capacitance infinity (OL)?
clockspring NO
0.47uF or
assemply.
470nF?
NO
YES
Replace the
See previous page. clockspring
Reactivate Replace the
assemply.
the system. air bag.
Remove the jumper from
the SRS1 connector.
02/02/2001 f040482
Fig. 7, Troubleshooting Diagram for Fault Code 232-001-05, Air Bag Loop Wiring—Open Circuit, Part 2
YES
Disconnect the
SRS1 connector.
Inspect
Is fault clockspring Any Replace the
The fault changes harness wiring problems Reactivate
FMI 06 still NO to FMI 05 (open circuit). YES clockspring the system.
active? and connectors for found? assembly.
shorts to other
circuits.
YES NO
YES
Reactivate
the system.
12/14/2000 f040478
Fig. 8, Troubleshooting Diagram for Fault Code 232-001-06, Air Bag Loop Wiring—Wiring Shorted
Reactivate
the system.
06/15/2005 f040713
YES YES
Fig. 10, Troubleshooting Diagram for Fault Code 232- Fig. 11, Troubleshooting Diagram for Fault Code 232-
005-03, SRS Warning Lamp Short to Power 005-04, SRS Warning Lamp Short to Ground
Deactivate
the system.
YES
Does the lamp
come on when the Disconnect the
Verify complaint. END YES NO AS1 connector.
Problem not confirmed. key is turned on?
NO NO
Fig. 12, Troubleshooting Diagram for No Fault Code, the SRS Indicator is Not Working
Check continuity between pin C of the Check continuity between pin C of the
AS1 connector and pin A of the vehicle AS1 connector and pin F of the vehicle Is the reading
diagnostic connector (circuit J1587+). diagnostic connector (circuit J1587−). YES between 11 and
Check continuity between pin D of the Check continuity between pin D of the 14 volts?
AS1 connector and pin B of the vehicle AS1 connector and pin G of the vehicle
diagnostic connector (circuit J1587−). diagnostic connector (circuit J1587−).
NO
Reactivate
the system.
NO
10/31/2000 f040480
Fig. 13, Troubleshooting Diagram When the SRS Indicator Stays On and/or When a Connection to the Vehicle
Through the J1587 Diagnostic Connector is Not Possible
NOTE: This fault is only displayed at the Instrument Control Unit (ICU).
It will not display on the J1587 datalink through ServiceLink.
START
Deactivate the Check power Check the ECU
system. Leave the and ground to the ground circuit.
AS2 connector airbag sensor At the AS1 connector, check
disconnected. module. continuity between pin B
and a known good ground.
Is the vehicle
NO equipped with
an airbag
system?
Check for power to the ECU.
Turn the ignition to the The ECU is poorly
Is there good grounded. Repair
YES ON position. At the AS1 YES continuity to ground NO
connector, check for the ground circuit
at pin B? as necessary.
voltage between pin A
and a known good ground.
Connect
ServiceLink
to the vehicle.
Does the Safety Restraint Is the
NO voltage Power and ground to the
System (MID 232) airbag sensor module
show up in approximately
12V (same as YES are okay. Check the
ServiceLink? J1587 datalink to
battery
voltage)? the module.
Reactivate
the system.
YES
NO With the batteries disconnected,
check the J1587 databus
for continuity between
Turn the ignition the AS1 connector and the
In some cases, the Safety Restraint off.
System (or air bag sensor module) diagnostic connector.
does not respond to the ICU roll call
fast enough, thus causing a roll call
fault. If the fault is persistent, disable Check the 5A and 10A
the roll call for the Safety breakers for the airbag The airbag sensor
Restraint System. Is there module is most
(SRS) system in the PDM. continuity
Check circuits 81C and 454. YES likely faulty.
Note: This procedure is applicable on J1587? Replace as
only to the ICU2M. The ICU 4M will Repair as necessary.
necessary.
"learn" to look for the airbag system
once it sees it for the first time
after being reset. NO
Fig. 14, Troubleshooting Diagram for Fault Code 232-254-07, the Air Bag Module is Not Communicating With the
J1587 Datalink or It Has Lost Power
General Information
The ZF steering driveline is a ball-splined telescopic
shaft that consists of a cardan shaft with internal
splines and a special-pattern shaft with external
splines. Two rows of ball bearings run in these
splines and form a positive rotating link that does not
transmit noise. This design ensures freedom from
radial play but light-action axial displacement with an
effective stroke of ±1.18 inches (±30 mm). The ball-
splined telescopic shaft has a low rate of wear and
needs no maintenance.
Installation
1. If the steering driveline is being replaced, install
the steering boot bushing on the upper end of
the new driveline.
2. Insert the upper end of the steering driveline
through the steering boot and partially into the
cab.
3. Align the timing mark on the upper end yoke with
the timing mark on the lower spline on the steer-
ing column. Using a new M10 x 1.25 pinch bolt
and nut, attach the upper end yoke to the steer-
ing column. Torque the bolt 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to
47 N·m).
4. Using a new M10 x 1.25 pinch bolt and nut, at-
tach the steering driveline to the steering gear
input shaft. Torque the bolt 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to
47 N·m).
5. Place the lower edge of the steering boot in the
groove of the steering boot bushing. See Fig. 3.
7
2
8
6
5
9
3
07/29/2002 f461959
1. Steering Gear 4. Nut 7. Steering Column
2. Pinch Bolt 5. Steering Shaft 8. Upper End Yokes
3. Lower End Yokes 6. Steering Boot Bushing 9. Steering Boot
02/27/2002 f461944
1. Steering Boot Bushing
2. Steering Boot
Fig. 3, Steering Boot
General Information In steering wheels without an air bag, the slip ring
that attaches to the column, and connects to the
The TRW adjustable steering column can be tilted or horn button, is not a true clockspring, and has unlim-
ited rotation. In steering wheels with an air bag, this
telescoped by pressing down on the foot pedal at the
base of the column and moving the wheel to the de- ring is a clockspring with limited rotation, so care
must be taken to secure the two halves of the clock-
sired position. The locking mechanism uses spring
force to keep the column stationary. spring while the steering wheel or I-shaft is removed
for service.
The column is attached to the frontwall by both a
mounting bracket behind the bulk of the column as- A turn signal switch attaches to the steering column
just below the steering wheel. If the vehicle is
sembly, and mounting studs that connect to the front-
wall bearing plate where the column shaft passes equipped with a trailer brake control valve, or Smart-
Shift control, it is attached to the right side of the
through the frontwall. The end of this shaft connects
to the steering driveline (I-shaft) in the engine com- steering column. The steering column assembly is
partment. See Fig. 1. not repairable; if any steering column parts are dam-
aged or badly worn, the steering column assembly
Steering wheels have different removal and installa- must be replaced.
tion procedures if they include an air bag: in wheels
without an air bag, the horn button must be removed
to access the wheel nut; in wheels with an air bag,
the air bag must be deactivated, and the wheel cover
module must be removed, to access the wheel nut.
6
2
7
10
1 8
9
02/29/2008 f462138
1. Frontwall Bearing Studs 5. Steering Wheel 9. Column Position Adjustment
2. Column Mounting Bracket Studs 6. Horn Button Pedal
3. Steering Column 7. Steering Wheel Nut 10. M8 Nut
4. Slip Ring 8. M10 Nut
Installation
NOTE: Before installing the steering wheel,
make sure the front tires are pointed straight
ahead, and the steering gear is centered.
1. Thread the horn wires through the hole above 10° 10°
the center of the steering wheel, and set the
steering wheel on the steering column; see 1 2
Fig. 1.
2. Make sure that the steering wheel is within ±10 10° 10°
degrees of center as shown in Fig. 2.
3. Install a new steering wheel nut and tighten it 33
to 41 lbf·ft (45 to 55 N·m).
05/10/2007 f462075
4. Connect the horn connectors to the horn button 1. 9 o’Clock 2. 3 o’Clock
and install the horn button.
Fig. 2, Steering Wheel Position
Steering Wheel, Air Bag 1. With the vehicle parked on a level surface, shut
down the engine, set the parking brake, and
Removal chock the tires.
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read and re- 2. Disconnect the batteries and wait two minutes
view all safety guidelines in Sec- before disconnecting any air bag circuits. The
tion 46.07, Subject 110. leads must be disconnected from the batteries;
WARNING 2
Wait two minutes after disconnecting the batter- 2
ies to allow the internal components to dis-
charge. Failure to allow the components to dis-
charge could cause the air bag to deploy,
resulting in severe bodily injury or death.
Undeployed air bags can be dangerous and are 1
capable of deploying at any time. Follow the
safety guidelines and handling instructions in
Section 46.07, Subject 110. Failure to observe
safety and handling information could cause un-
intentional deployment of the air bag, which
could result in severe injury or death.
3. Remove the fasteners on the dash-facing side of
the steering wheel that hold the steering wheel
cover module in place.
4. Remove the steering wheel cover module. 02/27/2008 f462118a
5. Disconnect the steering wheel switch and air bag A. Enlarged View
connectors from the steering wheel cover mod- 1. Steering Wheel Switch Connector
ule, and disconnect the horn wires from the mi- 2. Horn Switch Connectors
croswitch leads. See Fig. 3.
IMPORTANT: The steering wheel does not have Fig. 3, Steering Wheel Cover Module and Connectors,
Air Bag
threaded wheel-puller holes. The tapered fit be-
tween the steering wheel and the column is de- 2. Thread the switch, air bag, and horn connectors
signed to be released by hand. through the hole above the center of the steering
wheel, and set the steering wheel on the steering
6. Loosen the nut that holds the steering wheel on
column; see Fig. 4.
the steering column, but leave it on the shaft
until the wheel has been released from the ta- 3. Make sure that the steering wheel is within ±10
pered fit. degrees of center as shown in Fig. 2.
7. Remove the wheel from the tapered fit by striking 4. Install a new steering wheel nut and tighten it 33
it from below, at the rim/spoke intersections, with to 41 lbf·ft (45 to 55 N·m).
both hands. 5. Connect the steering wheel switch and air bag
8. Remove the steering wheel nut and the wheel. connectors to the steering wheel cover module,
and connect the horn button connectors to the
9. Secure the clockspring with tape to prevent it
microswitch leads; see Fig. 3.
from turning while the steering wheel is gone.
6. Install the steering wheel cover module into the
Installation steering wheel.
NOTE: Before installing the steering wheel, 7. Install the air bag retaining screws through the
bottom of the steering wheel.
make sure the front tires are pointed straight
ahead, and the steering gear is centered. 8. Connect the batteries.
1. Remove the tape that keeps the clockspring from
turning.
4 5
2
1
6
7
02/29/2008 f462139
1. Steering Column 5. Steering Wheel
2. Horn Switch Cover Module
Connectors 6. Air Bag Connector
3. Steering Wheel 7. Clockspring
4. Steering Wheel Nut
Removal
3
1. Remove the steering wheel; see Subject 100. 2
2. Remove the fasteners that hold the dash knee
bolster to the dash, then remove the bolster.
2
3. Remove the four column cover fasteners on the
back and the two on the front of the column, and
remove the covers.
4. Remove the turn signal wiring harness bracket
from the column. 1
5. Disconnect the turn signal harness from the stalk
switch by depressing the plastic retaining tabs on 5
the connector body while detaching the harness. 4
6. Disconnect the SmartShift lever, and trailer brake
assembly, if equipped.
7. Remove and discard the pinch bolt and nut from
the end yoke of the steering I-shaft, and discon-
nect the yoke from the steering column shaft
06/27/2007 f462088
end.
1. Frontwall Bearing Studs
8. Remove the nuts that hold the frontwall bearing 2. Steering Column Mounting Bracket Studs
housing to the frontwall. See Fig. 1. 3. Steering Column
9. Support the column and remove the nuts that 4. M10 Nut
hold the column to the column mounting bracket, 5. M8 Nut
and remove the column. See Fig. 2.
Fig. 1, Steering Column Installation
10/26/2006 f462051
Principles of Operation
When the driver turns the steering wheel, that force
travels from the steering wheel to the steering gear
input shaft. A torsion bar, pinned at one end to the
input shaft and at the other end to the worm shaft,
turns with the input shaft and exerts a rotational force
on the worm shaft. In response to the force exerted
by the torsion bar, the worm shaft moves the rack
piston forward or backward in the gear housing by
means of a series of recirculating balls in the spiral
channels of the worm shaft. As the rack piston slides
back and forth, it turns the sector shaft. The sector
shaft swings the pitman arm, which pulls or pushes
the drag link. The drag link moves the axle steering
arm, steering the vehicle.
The rack piston’s axial movement is resisted by its
engagement to the sector shaft, which is linked to
the steered wheels. Because of this resistance, the
torsion bar activates the control valve, which directs
pressurized fluid to the upper or lower cylinder cavity
(depending on the direction of turn). The pressurized
fluid assists in moving the rack piston up or down in
the cylinder bore.
Most THP and PCF steering gears are equipped with
two poppet (unloading) valves, one at each end of
the rack piston. As the front wheels reach the axle
stop—the farthest the wheels can turn in either
2 9 10
8
1 3
4 11
5 14
15
6
7
12 17
13
19
16 21
27 22
26 31 18
28 29 30 20
24
25
23
33
32
26
27 49
48
47
45
42
51
50
41 46
34
44
43
35 42
40
38 39
36 6
10/21/2003 37 7 f461925
1. Valve Housing Capscrew 19. O-Ring 35. Dirt and Water Seal
2. Dirt and Water Seal 20. Bearing Adjuster 36. Grease Fitting
3. Retaining Ring 21. Adjuster Locknut 37. Automatic Bleed Plug
4. Input Shaft Seal 22. O-Ring 38. Poppet Adjusting Screw
5. Valve Housing 23. Seal Ring 39. Poppet Adjusting Screw Nut
6. Auxiliary Port O-Ring (2) 24. Push Tube 40. Poppet Fixed Stop Screw
7. Auxiliary Port Plug (2) 25. Poppet Spring 41. Roller Bearing
8. Relief Valve 26. Poppet 42. Output Seal
9. O-Ring 27. Poppet Seat and Sleeve 43. Sector Shaft Assembly
10. Relief Valve Cap Assembly 44. Sector Shaft Adjusting Screw
11. Valve Housing O-Ring 28. Rack Piston 45. Washer
12. Bearing Assembly 29. Ball 46. Roller Bearing
13. O-Ring 30. Ball Return Guide 47. Side Cover O-Ring
14. Seal Ring 31. Cap Seal 48. Side Cover Assembly
15. Input Shaft Assembly 32. Ball Return Guide Cap 49. Vent Plug, Side Cover
16. Thrust Bearing 33. Torx® Capscrew 50. Adjusting Screw Jam Nut
17. Thrust Washer 34. Gear Housing 51. Capscrew
18. Seal Ring
Removal
1. Verify that the axle stops are adjusted correctly.
Ensuring correct axle stop adjustment will elimi-
nate the possibility of resetting steering gear
poppet valves after the gear is installed. See
Group 33 for instructions.
2. Place the front tires in the straight-ahead posi-
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight
line for a short distance, stopping where the work
is to be done. 1
3. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
and chock the tires.
4. Disconnect the batteries and open the hood.
5. Clean all fittings and hose connections on the
steering gear until they are free of dirt.
2
6. Drain the fluid from the power steering system.
Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the steering 10/30/2002 f461964
gear, marking the lines for later reference. Plug 1. Pitman Arm 2. Two-Jaw Puller
the lines and the fittings to keep out dirt.
7. Remove the pitman arm. Fig. 1, Pitman Arm Removal
3.2 Using a new pinch bolt and nut, attach the 4.3 Tighten the nut 230 lbf·ft (312 N·m).
driveline lower end yoke to the input shaft.
4.4 Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to
Tighten the nut 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47
the exposed bolt threads and the nut to
N·m).
indicate the fasteners have been properly
3.3 Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to tightened.
the exposed bolt threads and the nut to 5. If the hydraulic line fittings were removed, attach
indicate the fasteners have been properly them to the steering gear. Tighten the fittings 37
tightened. lbf·ft (50 N·m). Tighten the jam nut on the pres-
sure line fitting to a maximum 41 lbf·ft (56 N·m).
WARNING 6. Remove the plugs from the hydraulic lines. Con-
Never leave a chisel wedged in the pitman arm nect the hydraulic lines to the steering gear.
slot. When using a chisel to spread the slot in Tighten the nut on each fitting finger tight, then
the pitman arm, wear safety glasses and maintain use a wrench to tighten the nut until there is firm
a firm grip on the chisel at all times. Otherwise, resistance. Tighten one-sixth turn more.
the chisel may fly loose, which could cause an 7. Connect the batteries.
injury.
8. Fill and bleed the steering system. For instruc-
NOTE: The pitman arm may not fit over the tions, refer to Subject 110.
splines on the sector shaft without spreading the
9. Close the hood and perform the post-service
slot in the arm. To wedge the slot open, drive a checks in Subject 150.
chisel into the slot using a ball-peen hammer.
Hold the chisel in place and install the pitman
arm on the sector shaft. Remove the chisel from
the slot.
4. Install the pitman arm.
4.1 Make sure that the timing mark on the pit-
man arm is aligned with the timing mark
on the sector shaft. See Fig. 2.
09/29/2003 f460687b
Replacement
NOTE: The power steering pump is used in this
procedure to force out the input shaft seal. To 1
use this procedure, the power steering pump
should have a minimum of 1500 psi (10 342
kPa) available.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
2. Disconnect the return line from the steering gear
and plug the line. See Fig. 1. Cap the return port
of the steering gear with a high pressure fitting. 03/10/94 f460575a
1. Retaining Ring
01/06/99 f460573b
NOTICE
Do not pound the U-joint or lower end yoke on or 03/10/94 f460576a
off the input shaft. Internal damage to the steer- 1. Pinch Bolt 2. Pinch Bolt Nut
ing gear can result.
3. Disconnect the steering driveline from the steer- Fig. 3, Pinch Bolt Installation
ing gear input shaft. 8. Tie or wrap a shop towel around the input shaft
4. Remove the dirt and water seal from the steering and place a drain pan under the steering gear to
gear. Save this seal to determine the correct size catch the oil. See Fig. 4.
of the new seal.
5. Using a clean cloth, remove all grease from WARNING
around the input shaft.
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
6. Using a screwdriver inserted into the notch proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
formed in the end of the retaining ring, remove fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
the retaining ring. See Fig. 2. Be careful not to could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
scratch the bore with the screwdriver. could result in loss of power steering assist and
WARNING
Do not use a socket to install the input shaft
seal. You will not be able to control the seal in-
stallation depth with a socket and this could lead
to leaks. Leaks could result in loss of steering
assist and spillage on the roadway, which could
result in personal injury or property damage.
14. Install a new input shaft seal.
03/10/94 f460577a 14.1 Using Exxon Polyrex® EP2 grease
A. Cover the input shaft area. (045422), lubricate the inside diameter of
the new input shaft seal and install it on
Fig. 4, Shop Towel Covering the Input Shaft the input shaft.
14.2 Using a hammer and seal driver (J37073),
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
tap the driver until the shoulder of the
sonal injury or property damage.
driver is square against the valve housing.
9. If needed, fill the power steering reservoir with See Fig. 6. Remove any seal material that
automatic transmission fluid. may have sheared off in the seal bore or
10. With the vehicle in neutral, momentarily turn the retaining ring groove.
starter. If the engine starts, quickly turn it off.
This should force out the input shaft seal.
11. Remove the shop towel, pinch bolt, and input
yoke. Remove the input shaft seal. See Fig. 5. 1
03/10/94 f460579a
A
03/10/94 f460580a
18. Using a new pinch bolt and nut, attach the steer-
ing driveline to the input shaft. Tighten the nut 30
to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m).
19. Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex-
posed bolt threads and the nut to indicate the
fasteners have been properly tightened.
20. Connect the return line to the steering gear re-
turn port.
21. Bleed the air from the system. For instructions,
see Subject 110.
Adjustment
NOTE: If the steering gear is installed on the
frame rail, sector shaft adjustment can only be
completed if the adjusting screw jam nut (lo-
cated on the side cover) is accessible.
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the rear
tires.
2. With the engine on, turn the steering wheel until
the timing mark on the sector shaft lines up with
the timing mark on the housing. The sector shaft
is now at its center of travel. Shut down the en-
gine.
3. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut that attach 11/19/2001 f461926
the drag link to the pitman arm. Remove the
drag link from the pitman arm. Fig. 1, Adjusting the Sector Shaft
IMPORTANT: To avoid resetting the poppets, do • 3/4–16: 90 to 170 lbf·ft (122 to 230 N·m)
not turn the input shaft more than 1-1/2 turns • 7/8–14: 160 to 300 lbf·ft (217 to 407 N·m)
from the center-of-travel position while the drag
link is disconnected.
WARNING
4. From the center-of-travel position, grasp the pit-
man arm at the lower end of the arm and gently Failure to install and lock a new cotter pin in the
try to move the arm back and forth. If the pitman ball stud and nut could result in disengagement
arm is loose or lash (free play) is detected, the of the parts and loss of steering control, which
sector shaft is out of adjustment. could result in personal injury or property dam-
age.
5. Loosen the adjusting screw jam nut.
10. Continue to tighten the castle nut until a slot on
6. If no lash was detected in step 4, use a screw-
the nut aligns with the hole in the ball stud. Do
driver to turn the sector shaft adjusting screw
not reverse the tightening direction of the nut
counterclockwise until you feel lash at the sector
when locating the cotter pin hole. Install a new
shaft. See Fig. 1.
cotter pin in the ball stud and nut, then lock the
IMPORTANT: Do not use more than 10 lbf·ft (14 cotter pin in place.
N·m) of force when tightening the adjusting
screw. NOTICE
7. Slowly turn the shaft adjusting screw clockwise Do not use a power grease gun to add grease to
until you feel no lash at the sector shaft. From the sector shaft bearing. Doing so could damage
this position, turn the screw clockwise 1/8 to 3/16 the high-pressure seal and contaminate the hy-
of a turn more. Hold the adjusting screw in place draulic fluid.
and tighten the jam nut 43 lbf·ft (58 N·m).
11. Using only a hand-operated grease gun, add
8. Turn the steering wheel 1/4 of a turn each side grease to the sector shaft bearing through the
of center then back to center and check the pit- grease fitting in the housing until grease begins
man arm for lash. There should be no lash. If to extrude past the dirt and water seal.
lash is detected, loosen the jam nut and repeat
the previous step as well as this step.
9. Using a castle nut, attach the drag link to the
pitman arm. Tighten the castle nut using the ap-
propriate torque value:
Resetting the Poppet Valves 8.1 Start the engine and let it idle.
8.2 Note which sector shaft timing mark is
1. Check that the axle stops are adjusted properly. nearest the housing piston bore.
See Group 33 for instructions.
2. Start the engine and allow the vehicle to idle for NOTICE
5 to 10 minutes to warm the hydraulic fluid.
Do not hold the steering wheel at full turn for
3. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes, more than 10 seconds at a time. The heat buildup
and chock the rear tires. at pump relief pressure may damage compo-
4. Hold the poppet screw with a wrench and turn nents.
the sealing nut back toward the wrench until the 8.3 Turn the steering wheel in the direction
nut is flush with the base of the hex area of the that makes this timing mark move toward
poppet screw. the adjusting screw just installed. Turn the
5. Make sure that the engine is off and the wheels wheel in this direction until axle stop con-
are in the straight-ahead position. tact is made.
8.4 Pull hard on the steering wheel. Put up to
NOTICE 30 lbf (133 N) pull on a 20-inch diameter
steering wheel.
Make sure the drive end of the adjusting screw is
not below the face of the nut. If the drive end of 9. Set the upper poppet.
the adjusting screw is below the face of the nut, 9.1 Turn the steering wheel in the opposite
the poppet seat flange will break when the upper direction (the timing mark will move away
poppet is prepared for setting. from the adjusting screw) until the other
6. Using a 7/32-inch Allen wrench, turn the adjust- axle stop is contacted.
ing screw and nut assembly (without turning the
9.2 Pull hard on the steering wheel. Put up to
nut on the screw) into the housing until the nut is
30 lbf (133 N) pull on a 20-inch diameter
firmly against the housing. Tighten the nut
steering wheel.
against the housing. See Fig. 1.
9.3 Release the steering wheel and shut off
the engine.
10. Loosen the sealing nut and back out the adjust-
ing screw until the adjusting screw is one inch
(2.5 cm) past the nut. See Fig. 2. Tighten the nut
against the housing.
11. Set the lower poppet.
11.1 Start the engine and let it idle.
11.2 Turn the steering wheel in the original di-
rection (the timing mark will move toward
the adjusting screw) until axle stop contact
is made.
03/09/94 f460583a
11.3 Hold the steering wheel in this position
Fig. 1, Adjusting Screw and Nut Assembly with up to 30 lbf (133 N) pull on a 20-inch
diameter steering wheel for 10 seconds,
7. Place a jack under the center of the front axle then release. Repeat this hold-and-release
and jack up the front of the vehicle so the steer process as many times as necessary
axle tires are off the ground. while completing the next step.
8. Push the upper poppet out to prepare it for set- 12. Position the adjusting screw.
ting.
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
13. The poppets have now been completely reset.
Check the power steering reservoir. The power
steering fluid level should be between the MIN
02/28/94 f460585a COLD mark and the middle mark just above it. If
needed, add fluid.
Fig. 2, Adjusting Screw Position 14. Lower the vehicle.
12.1 With the steering wheel held tightly at full
turn, loosen the nut and hold it in place
with a wrench.
12.2 Using an Allen wrench and finger pressure
only, turn the adjusting screw clockwise
until the Allen wrench stops. Do not at-
tempt to turn the adjusting screw in any
farther. Pause the turning-in process each
time the driver releases the steering
wheel. Continue turning only while the
steering wheel is held at full turn.
12.3 Back off the adjusting screw 3-1/4 turns
and tighten the nut 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m).
WARNING
If the adjusting screw protrudes more than 1-1/16
inches (27 mm) from the sealing nut, the screw
could fall out of the steering gear, resulting in
loss of power steering. This could cause an acci-
dent resulting in personal injury or property dam-
age.
IMPORTANT: Once the poppet adjusting
screw and sealing nut are in place, and the
poppet valves have been manually adjusted,
the adjustment procedure must be repeated
if steering travel is either increased or de-
creased in the future.
Post-Service Checks
After power steering components have been worked
on and before the vehicle is placed into service, the
following items must be checked.
10° 10°
WARNING
Failure to check the following items could result 1 2
in damage to the power steering system. This
could cause loss of steering assist and spillage
on the roadway, which could cause personal in- 10° 10°
jury or property damage.
1. Operate the engine at idle while turning the
steering wheel through several full-left and full- 05/10/2007 f462075
right turns. With the engine running and the
1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
power steering system at operating temperature,
turn the steering wheel slowly from stop to stop Fig. 1, Steering Wheel Centered
while checking the power steering reservoir for
frothing or a change in the fluid level (signs that
air is trapped in the system).
If air is present, inspect the system for leaking
hoses or loose fittings. Replace the hoses or
tighten the fittings as necessary. Bleed the air
from the system. Refer to Subject 110 for in-
structions.
2. With the engine turned off and warm, check the
power steering reservoir fluid level. If needed,
add power steering fluid.
3. At full-left and full-right turns, be sure the axle
stops on the rear side of the spindle are set so
there is at least 1/2 inch (13 mm) of clearance
between the tires and any fixed components that
are attached to the vehicle. Clearance between
moving components should be at least 3/4 inch
(19 mm). If clearance is less than the above,
reset the axle stops.
4. Check that the poppets are set correctly. If
needed, adjust them. For instructions, refer to
Subject 140.
5. Test drive the vehicle. Check the steering wheel
spoke position. If, during straight-ahead driving
on a level road, the steering wheel spokes are
not within ±10 degrees of the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, remove the steering wheel and
reposition it. See Fig. 1.
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
THP and PCF power steering gears use automatic
transmission fluid that meets Dexron II, Dexron III,
Mercon, or ATF +4™ specifications.
Exxon Polyrex® EP2 Grease (045422) is approved
for use on steering gear components.
Special tools can be ordered from:
SPX Kent-Moore
28635 Mound Road
Warren, Michigan 48092-3499
1-800-328-6657
1.3 Check that the rear tires are inflated to the wheel and check for looseness or binding.
correct pressure, and the tire pressure is Make sure all components are free to
equal on both sides. Correct the pressure move, but are not excessively loose.
if needed.
4.3 Check the steering driveline U-joints for
1.4 Check that the tire sizes are correctly looseness or binding. Lubricate them if
matched, and whether duplex or oversized needed.
tires (that were not originally specified for
the vehicle) have been installed. 4.4 Check the sector shaft adjustment.
• With the vehicle on the ground, the
Extra tire width causes increased steering
engine idling, and the front tires
effort due to extra friction with the road
pointed straight ahead, turn the
surface. If the axle stops were turned out
steering wheel until slight motion is
to reduce wheel cut due to a change in
observed at the front wheels.
tires, the power steering gear poppets
may need to be adjusted. • Align a reference mark on the steer-
ing wheel to a rule, then, with the
1.5 Communicate with the driver or operator engine running, slowly turn the
to determine whether the vehicle is oper- steering wheel in the opposite direc-
ated at or over the rated load. tion until motion is again detected at
Increased load causes greater steering the wheels.
effort. Make sure the vehicle is being op- • Measure the lash (free play) at the
erated within rated capacities. rim of the steering wheel.
2. Check fifth wheel lubrication and condition. Excessive lash exists if steering
A dry fifth wheel plate makes it difficult to change wheel movement exceeds 2-1/2
direction. Check the plate surface for burrs, inches (64 mm) with a 20-inch (508-
gouges, and irregularities. mm) steering wheel, or 2-1/4 inches
(57 mm) with an 18-inch (457-mm)
3. Check vehicle alignment and wheel bearing ad- steering wheel.
justment.
4.5 Check that the front wheels self-return
3.1 Check the vehicle service history for the without binding.
last known alignment, and inspect tire
wear for indications that an alignment • With the engine off, chock the rear-
needs to be completed. most tires and place the front tires
on radius plates (turntables).
3.2 Check front axle caster and camber mea-
surements. • Disconnect the drag link from the
steering arm.
3.3 Ensure wheel bearings and rear axle are
in good condition, and that toe is set cor- • By hand, pull one tire to the axle
rectly. stop and release. The tire should
self-return to almost straight ahead.
3.4 Ensure the rear axle is properly aligned.
• Repeat with the opposite tire.
4. Check for loose and binding components. Check
whether any steering components need mainte- If a tire does not return to near
nance or adjustment. straight ahead, check for binding or
lack of lubrication in the steering
4.1 Check for proper lubrication of the drag axle kingpin bushings or tie rod link-
link, tie rods, and knuckle pins. Apply lu- age.
brication as needed.
• Connect the drag link and tighten
4.2 Check the COE steering column, if the castle nut, then install a new
equipped. Chock the rearmost tires. With cotter pin.
the engine shut down, turn the steering
1 3
2
1 3
2
B
05/19/2011 f462203
A. Vehicles With Air Brakes B. Vehicles With Hydraulic Brakes
1. Steering Pump 3. Reservoir
2. Steering Gear 4. Brake Booster
gear input and output lines to the done with the steering gear and
gear and continue with this substep. brake booster, if equipped.
• If the vehicle is equipped with hy- If the drop in system pressure from
draulic brakes, bypass the brake the value found in substep 5.3 is
booster by disconnecting the greater than 12 psi (83 kPa) for any
booster input and output lines and one line, replace the line and test
coupling them together. total system back pressure again.
If the drop in system pressure from 6. Check steering pump performance. Power steer-
the value found in substep 5.3 is ing fluid temperature should be approximately
greater than 40 psi (276 kPa), the 180°F (82°C) to best replicate fluid temperatures
brake booster has excessive restric- under normal driving conditions.
tion. If the drop in pressure is less
than 40 psi (276 kPa), reconnect the If the system fails the tests in the following sub-
steps, replace the pressure relief valve (PRV)
booster input and output lines and
and complete the tests in the substeps below
continue with this substep.
again. If the system fails again, replace the
• Test each hydraulic line in the power pump.
steering system individually by by-
passing them one at a time, as was
1 3 4
2
05/19/2011 f462204
1. Steering Pump 3. Low Pressure Gauge
2. Steering Gear 4. Reservoir
Install the PSSA between the steering pump and 6.2 Check the pump relief pressure.
the gear for the following substeps. See the fol-
• Slowly close the load valve. When
lowing heading, Power Steering System Ana-
the valve is completely closed, read
lyzer Setup, for instructions on PSSA installa-
the pressure gauge, then open the
tion.
valve.
• If the pump relief pressure does not
NOTICE exceed the relief pressure in
Do not leave the load valve closed for longer Table 2 or Table 3, refer to the
than five seconds during the following test. pump manufacturer’s service litera-
Doing so could damage the power steering sys- ture to verify the exact relief pres-
tem. sure for the pump.
6.1 Check for erratic pump response. • If the pump relief pressure does not
exceed the relief pressure in
• Slowly close the load valve and Table 2, Table 3, or the pump
watch the pressure and flow read- manufacturer’s specifications, re-
ings as the valve closes, then open place the PRV or pump, as required.
the valve immediately.
• If the pump relief pressure exceeds
• If the pressure rises rapidly or ap- the relief pressure in Table 2 or
pears uncontrolled, open the load Table 3, it is acceptable. Go to the
valve immediately. next substep.
• If the response was erratic, replace 6.3 Test the pump relief valve reaction at idle.
the PRV or pump, as required. If the
response was smooth and con- • Run the engine at idle and note the
trolled, go to the next substep. flow rate with the load valve open.
Table 2, Minimum Measured Pump Flow and Relief Pressure at Engine Idle
Minimum Measured Pump Flow and Relief Pressure for High-Pressure Gears at Engine Idle
Flow at 1500 Flow at 1000 Flow at 2300 psi Typical Relief
Power Steering Gear rpm, No Load: psi (6900 kPa): (15 860 kPa): Pressure:
gpm (L/min) gpm (L/min) gpm (L/min) psi (kPa)
Sheppard HD94 2.6 (9.8) 1.8 (6.8)
TRW THP45 3.7 (14.0) 2.2 (8.3) 1.4 (5.3)
2683 ± 100
TRW THP60 or PCF60 2.6 (9.8) 1.8 (6.8)
(18 500 ± 700)
TRW THP60 With Linear Cylinder
5.8 (22.0) 4.1 (15.5) 3.3 (12.5)
TRW THP60 With RCH45
Table 3, Minimum Measured Pump Flow and Relief Pressure for High-Pressure Gears at Engine Idle
• Close the load valve until the pump • If the flow rate returns smoothly and
relief pressure is reached. Smoothly quickly, the pump relief valve is ac-
and quickly open the load valve and ceptable. Go to the next substep.
note the flow rate. Repeat this ac-
tion three times. The flow rate 6.4 Test the pump relief valve reaction at 1500
rpm.
should return to the flow rate first
noted with the load valve open. • Run the engine at 1500 rpm and
• If the flow rate does not return note the flow rate with the load
valve open.
smoothly and quickly, the pump re-
lief valve is not working correctly. • Close the load valve until the pump
Replace the replace the PRV or relief pressure is reached. Smoothly
pump, as required. and quickly open the load valve and
note the flow rate. Repeat this ac-
tion three times. The flow rate be limited to prevent excessive pressure from
should return to the flow rate first damaging the gear, and the internal PRV pas-
noted with the load valve open. sage must be blocked to direct oil flow through
• If the flow rate does not return the gear.
smoothly and quickly, replace the Use PartsPro® for the specific VIN to determine if
PRV or pump, as required. the steering gear is equipped with an internal
• If the flow rate returns smoothly and PRV, which will be listed as a serviceable part
quickly, the pump relief valve is ac- under module 536.
ceptable. Go to the next substep. If a TRW steering gear has an internal PRV but
6.5 Test the flow of the pump at idle with a no hydraulic brake booster, see the following
load applied. heading, Internal Leakage Test Setup, TRW
Steering Gears With an Internal PRV, for in-
For vehicles with low-pressure steering structions on setting up the necessary test com-
gears, run the engine at idle and slowly ponents before proceeding with the following
close the load valve until the pressure substeps.
gauge reads 1000 psi (6900 kPa). Read
the flow rate on the gauge, then set the ThyssenKrupp rack and pinion steering gears are
pressure to 1800 psi (12 400 kPa). Read also equipped with an internal PRV, but cannot
the flow gauge, then open the load valve. be tested for internal leakage.
Compare the values to those in Table 2. IMPORTANT: Make sure the fluid tempera-
For vehicles with high-pressure steering ture is approximately 180°F (82°C) and the
gears, use 1000 psi (6900 kPa) and 2300 vehicle is stationary with the front wheels
psi (15 860 kPa) as the test load pres- pointing forward.
sures. See Table 3 for minimum flow rate.
7.1 Run the engine at idle with the load valve
6.6 Test the maximum flow of the pump with open.
no load applied.
• Run the engine at 1500 rpm, make WARNING
sure the load valve is completely
open, and read the flow gauge. Keep fingers clear of the stop bolt and spacer
block during the following test. Make sure that
• If the flow rate is below the mini- the spacer block contacts the axle stop squarely.
mum indicated in Table 2 or Contact that is not square could break the stop
Table 3, replace the PRV or pump, bolts or eject the spacer block, which could
as required. cause serious personal injury.
• If the flow rate is above 5.5 gpm 7.2 Place an unhardened steel spacer, 1-inch
(20.8 L/min) on a vehicle with a (25-mm) thick, between the axle and the
single steering gear, or 7.7 gpm stop bolt on one side of the axle.
(28.8 L/min) on a vehicle with an
assist cylinder installed, replace the The spacer should have an extension or
pump. handle long enough to keep fingers clear
of the axle stop area. A brazing rod or
7. Test the steering gear internal leakage. welding rod works well for this purpose.
Select TRW integral steering gears and all Thys-
senKrupp rack and pinion steering gears are NOTICE
equipped with an internal PRV that significantly
limits maximum supply pressure to protect the While running the following test, do not hold the
steering gear. These gears, unlike gears on ve- steering wheel in the full-turn position for more
hicles fitted with hydraulic brake boosters, cannot than five seconds. Doing so could damage the
be tested for internal leakage by plugging the pump.
internal PRV in the gear. The pump output must
7.3 Have someone turn the steering wheel, loss of assist, as the steering wheel ap-
applying enough force to completely close proaches either full-left or full-right turn.
the rotary valve.
8.1 Check the steering system for stop bolt
Complete closure of the rotary valve re- adjustment.
quires approximately 20 lbf (27 N) pull on
the steering wheel, and will be indicated Make sure the stop bolt settings limit the
by a pressure reading nearly equal to the steering travel so there is ½-inch (13-mm)
system relief pressure (tested in substep clearance from all stationary components,
6.2). and 3/4-inch (19-mm) clearance from all
moving components.
7.4 Hold the steering wheel in the full-turn po-
sition. Note the steering gear internal leak- 8.2 Make sure the pitman arm is situated on
age on the PSSA. the steering gear sector shaft correctly.
Check that the pitman arm and sector
7.5 Repeat the previous substeps for the op- shaft timing marks are aligned.
posite turn.
The maximum permissible internal leak- NOTICE
age for a single gear is 1.0 gpm (3.8
L/min). If leakage is greater in either turn- If power steering pump relief pressure is reached
ing direction, replace the steering gear while the steering wheel is at full lock, release
components as needed. the steering wheel from this position. Do not
allow the pump relief pressure to be maintained
For systems with two or more steering for longer than five seconds or damage to the
gears and/or linear cylinders, the total ac- pump may result.
ceptable internal leakage is 1.0 gpm (3.8
L/min) for each steering gear/ram in the 8.3 Check the poppet relief pressure.
system. Maximum internal leakage on a • Install the PSSA between the steer-
dual-gear system is 2.0 gpm (7.6 L/min). If ing pump and the steering gear. See
the leakage is more than 2.0 gpm (7.6 the following heading, Power Steer-
L/min) on a dual-gear system, isolate the ing System Analyzer Setup, for
auxiliary cylinder from the system using instructions on PSSA installation.
the substeps that follow.
• Run the engine at idle with the load
7.6 Disconnect the auxiliary cylinder hydraulic valve open. Turn the steering wheel
lines at the main gear auxiliary ports. to either full-lock position. Note the
7.7 Plug the main steering gear ports with pressure gauge reading, then repeat
suitable steel or high-pressure plugs or for the opposite turn.
caps. • The pressure should drop slightly
before the stop bolts are contacted.
7.8 Repeat the internal leakage test.
If the pressure increases (from con-
If the internal leakage is less than 1 gpm tact with the stop bolts), the poppets
(3.8 L/min), repair or replace the auxiliary must be manually reset.
gear or linear cylinder. If the internal leak-
If the pressure is relieved and assist
age is greater than 1 gpm (3.8 L/min), re-
is lost when the wheel is too far
pair or replace the main gear.
from the axle stop bolts, refer to the
8. Check the steering gear poppet relief valve and applicable section in this manual for
stop bolt adjustment. gear-specific information.
NOTE: Poppets limit the steering assist • After poppet replacement or adjust-
when the front wheels approach the stop ment, test again for correct poppet
bolts. Improper adjustment can apply exces- relief function and record the new
sive force to the steering linkage, or cause pressure.
8.4 Check for normal hissing sound at full • Run the engine at governed speed.
turn. • Observe the power steering fluid tempera-
NOTE: Noise from the power steering sys- ture until it stabilizes.
tem does not necessarily mean there is a • Record the power steering fluid tempera-
problem. Some noises are normal and are ture in 10-minute intervals until 40 minutes
the result of proper operation. have passed.
See Table 4 for possible causes and rem- • If the temperature does not exceed 250°F
edies for common noises associated with (121°C) during the test, excessive heat
the power steering system and power steer- due to system components is probably not
ing pump. the cause of the complaint. The system
may still experience overheating due to
8.5 Check for abnormal power steering noise. driving and load conditions.
Listen for a hissing sound at less than full If the temperature exceeds 250°F (121°C),
turn. If a hissing sound is heard, check the excessive steering system back pressure
steering gear poppet and the axle stop or excessive pump flow may be the cause
adjustment. of the high temperature problem. If system
back pressure or restriction values found in
NOTICE substeps 5.3 and 5.4 above were close to
the maximum allowable, complete step 5
If the temperature exceeds 250°F (121°C), dam- again. If steering pump flow and relief
age to hoses, seals, and other components may pressures found in step 6 above were
result if the vehicle continues to operate at ex- close to the maximum allowable, complete
cessive steering system temperatures. If this step 6 again.
temperature is exceeded, stop the test and • If excessive heat continues to be a prob-
record the last noted temperature on STI-492. lem, a cooler may need to be added to the
9. Test the system operating temperature. system.
2 2
1
14
12
13
15 A
12
3
4
11 5
10 9
7
4
12/03/2009 f462182
A. High-Pressure Input Port B. Low-Pressure Output Port
1. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir 9. Connector, Male NPT to Beaded Hose Barb
2. Existing Power Steering Fluid Lines (Qty 3) 10. Pipe Coupling
3. Power Steering Pump 11. Tee, Male JIC with Male NPT Branch
4. PSSA Fluid Lines (Qty 2) 12. Swivel Adaptor (Qty 2)
5. PSSA 13. Swivel Nut Run Tee
6. Connector, Straight Thread with O-Ring 14. Relief Valve Threaded Cartridge Body
7. Power Steering Gear (TAS85 shown) 15. External Relief Valve, Threaded Cartridge Type
8. Power Steering Hose, 42"
Principles of Operation
The rack and pinion steering system is mounted to
the front axle with two brackets, and connected by
outer tie rods to the tie rod arms that pivot the
wheels. See Fig. 1. When the steering wheel is
turned, the intermediate steering shaft turns the input
shaft, rotating the torsion bar and pinion gear within
the rack housing. When the torsion bar twists, power
steering fluid provides power assist, via a rack-
mounted piston, to the pinion gear, moving the rack.
The rack, with a tie rod at each end, then moves the
tie rod arms.
16
11
12
15
10 13
9
8 14
7
6
17
2
3
4
5
19 21
20
8
9
22 23
18
5
1
3 4
07/24/2009 f462151
1. Steering Tie Rod Arm 10. Input Shaft Seal Cover 17. I-Shaft Slip Joint
2. Power Steering Fluid Lines 11. I-Shaft Upper Yoke 18. Transfer Lines
3. Large Bellows Clamp 12. I-Shaft Lower Yoke Boot Clamp 19. Rack and Pinion Gear
4. Bellows 13. I-Shaft Lower Yoke Boot 20. Pinch Bolt
5. Small Bellows Clamp 14. I-Shaft Lower End Yoke 21. Tie Rod Clamp
6. Driver-Side Outer Tie Rod 15. Transfer Line Tube Fittings 22. Tie Rod Clamp Nut
7. Tie Rod Jam Nut 16. Power Steering Fluid Line 23. Passenger-Side Outer Tie Rod
8. Inner Tie Rod Flat Fittings
9. Inner Tie Rod Ball Joint
NOTICE
Maximum wheel cut should not exceed 46 de-
grees. Excessive wheel cut may damage the
05/31/2007 f462071 inner tie rod.
A. Align the pointers. 5. Turn the wheels as far right and left as possible
1. Input Shaft Seal Cover to check for interference between the wheels/
2. Input Shaft Housing tires and other components. There must be at
least 1/2 inch (13 mm) clearance from any fixed
Fig. 1, Rack and Pinion Pointer Alignment object, and 3/4 inch (19 mm) from any moving
object.
3. Whenever the computerized alignment program
requires that the steering wheel be pointed IMPORTANT: The spline/pinch bolt connections
straight ahead, the steering rack on-center point- between the steering gear and the last U-joint in
ers should be aligned. the column fit in only one position, so reclocking
NOTE: Do not clock the steering wheel; it is the splined connections after alignment is not
clocked at the end of the procedure. possible.
4. Adjust each tie rod length to obtain the specified 6. Make sure that the steering wheel is within 10
toe-in dimension, as follows. degrees of center as shown in Fig. 3. If not, re-
move and center the wheel, as follows.
4.1 Loosen the driver-side tie rod jam nut, see
Fig. 2. If necessary, hold the inner tie rod 6.1 If the vehicle has an airbag, deactivate
and remove the airbag module according
1
4
3
3
3
B
2
1
07/24/2009 f462166
A. Counterclockwise rotation increases the toe-in angle
B. Clockwise rotation decreases the toe-in angle
1. Outer Tie Rod 3. Inner Tie Rod Flat 5. Tie Rod Clamp Nut
2. Tie Rod Jam Nut 4. Tie Rod Clamp
to the instructions in Section 46.07. If the 6.5 Install a new steering wheel nut and
vehicle does not have an airbag, remove tighten it 33 to 41 lbf·ft (45 to 55 N·m).
the horn button by prying it out around the
edge.
6.6 If the vehicle has an airbag, install and
reactivate the airbag according to the in-
6.2 Loosen the nut that holds the steering structions in Section 46.07. If the vehicle
wheel on the steering column, but leave it does not have an airbag, install the horn
on the shaft until the wheel has been re- button.
leased from the tapered fit.
6.3 Remove the wheel from the tapered fit by
striking it upward from below, at the rim/
spoke intersections, with both hands.
6.4 Remove and discard the steering wheel
nut, and install and center the steering
wheel.
10° 10°
1 2
10° 10°
06/13/2007 f462080
1. 9 o’clock 2. 3 o’clock
Removal
1. Place the front tires in the straight-ahead posi-
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight
line for a short distance, stopping at the spot
where the work is to be done. 1
2. Turn off the engine, apply the parking brakes, A
chock the tires, and open the hood.
2
3. Clean all fittings and hose connections on the
steering gear until they are free of dirt.
4. While holding the power steering fluid line fittings
in place with a backup wrench, disconnect the
fluid lines from the steering gear. Plug the lines
and the fittings to keep out dirt and prevent fluid
leakage.
05/31/2007 f462071
5. Remove and discard the cotter pins and castel-
A. Align the pointers.
lated nuts from the outer tie rods.
1. Input Shaft Seal Cover
Disconnect the outer tie rods from the tie rod 2. Input Shaft Housing
arms.
6. Disconnect the end yoke of the steering I-shaft Fig. 1, Rack and Pinion Pointer Alignment
from the rack and pinion input shaft. Discard the 5. Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex-
pinch bolt and nut. posed pinch bolt threads and nut.
7. Remove and discard the steering gear mounting 6. If needed, install power steering fluid line fittings
bolts and nuts that connect the rack and pinion (Fig. 2, Item 5) on the steering gear and tighten
to the axle steering gear brackets, then remove 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m).
the gear.
7. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the fit-
tings, ensuring that the hoses do not touch the
Installation axle or each other. While holding the fittings in
place with a backup wrench, tighten the pressure
1. Install the steering gear on the axle steering gear hose 43 to 47 lbf·ft (58 to 64 N·m) and the return
brackets, using new mounting bolts and nuts. hose 55 to 61 lbf·ft (75 to 83 N·m).
Tighten the fasteners 202 to 256 lbf·ft (274 to
347 N·m).
2. Attach the outer tie rods of the rack and pinion
NOTICE
gear to the tie rod arms, using new castellated Do not loosen or tighten the hard transfer line
nuts. Tighten the castellated nuts 240 lbf·ft (325 tube fittings. Tightening the tube fittings can
N·m). Continue to tighten until the the next cas- cause the O-ring seal to leak.
tellated nut slot aligns with the hole in the ball
8. Fill and bleed the power steering system.
stud and insert the new cotter pin.
3. Center the rack travel and align the timing point- 8.1 Raise the front wheels off the ground and
ers on the input shaft seal cover and the input support the vehicle with jack stands.
shaft housing. See Fig. 1. 8.2 Fill the power steering reservoir with auto-
4. Using a new pinch bolt and nut, attach the steer- matic transmission fluid that meets Dexron
ing I-shaft to the steering gear input shaft. III or TES-389 specifications.
Tighten the nut 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m).
1
1
6 3
4
5
1
2
1
3
07/27/2009 f462167
1. Steering Tie Rod Arm 4. Power Steering Fluid Lines 6. Steering Gear Mounting Bolts
2. Castellated Nut 5. Power Steering Fluid Line 7. Steering Gear Mounting Nuts
3. Outer Tie Rod Fittings
Replacement
1. Place the front tires in the straight-ahead posi-
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight
line for a short distance, stopping at the spot 1 A
where the work is to be done.
2. Turn off the engine, apply the parking brakes, 1
chock the tires, and open the hood. B
3. Clean all fittings and connections until they are 2
free of dirt and debris.
4. While holding the fittings in place with a backup
wrench, disconnect the power steering fluid lines 07/24/2009 f462114
from the steering gear. Plug the lines and the
fittings to keep out dirt and prevent fluid leakage. A. Apply air to the outlet port to remove the input shaft
seal.
5. Remove and discard the pinch bolt and nut from B. Seal the inlet port while applying air.
the I-shaft end yoke, and disconnect the end 1. Power Steering Fluid Line Fittings
yoke from the input shaft. 2. Transfer Line Tube Fittings
6. Clean the valve and input shaft seal cover until
they are free of dirt and debris. Fig. 1, Removal of the Input Shaft Seal
7. Work the input shaft seal cover off with a screw- 16. Apply grease to the top of the seal, completely
driver. covering the seal. See Fig. 2.
8. Remove the dust cover.
9. Remove the retaining ring with retaining ring pli-
ers. 3
17. Install the dust cover, making sure the outer lip
of the cover curves upward. Wipe away any ex-
cess grease.
18. Remove the protective cap from the input shaft.
19. Install the input shaft seal cover on the input
shaft.
20. Using a new pinch bolt and nut, attach the steer-
ing I-shaft to the steering gear input shaft.
Tighten the nut 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m).
21. Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to the ex-
posed pinch bolt threads and nut.
22. Check the power steering fluid line fittings for a
torque value of 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m).
Tighten them if needed.
23. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the fit-
tings, ensuring that the hoses do not touch the
axle or each other. While holding the fittings in
place with a backup wrench, tighten the pressure
hose 43 to 47 lbf·ft (58 to 64 N·m) and the return
hose 55 to 61 lbf·ft (75 to 83 N·m).
NOTICE
Do not loosen or tighten the hard transfer line
tube fittings (Fig. 1, Item 2). Tightening the tube
fittings can cause the O-ring seal to leak.
24. Fill and bleed the power steering system.
24.1 Raise the front wheels off the ground and
support the vehicle with jack stands.
24.2 Fill the power steering reservoir with auto-
matic transmission fluid that meets Dexron
III or TES-389 specifications.
24.3 With the engine off, turn the wheel fully
left and right five times to bleed the air
from the rack.
24.4 Start the engine and turn the steering
wheel fully left and right several times to
bleed the remaining air from the system.
24.5 If the steering system needs additional
bleeding, repeat the previous substep
after the fluid in the reservoir has had time
to release any air.
24.6 Remove the jack stands and lower the
vehicle.
Replacement 4.5 Install the new outer tie rod on the inner
tie rod. Ensure that the outer tie rod posi-
1. Place the front tires in the straight-ahead posi- tion and number of exposed threads is the
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight same as noted during step 4.2.
line for a short distance, stopping at the spot 4.6 Tighten the tie rod clamp.
where the work is to be done.
5. Attach the outer tie rod of the rack and pinion to
2. Turn off the engine, apply the parking brakes, the tie rod arm with a new castellated nut.
chock the tires, and open the hood. Tighten the castellated nut 240 lbf·ft (325 N·m).
3. For driver-side outer tie rod replacement, pro- Continue to tighten until the the next castle nut
ceed as follows. See Fig. 1. slot aligns with the hole in the ball stud and in-
sert the new cotter pin.
3.1 Remove and discard the cotter pin and
castellated nut. 6. Align the rack and pinion gear using the instruc-
tions in Subject 100.
3.2 Loosen the jam nut. Note the number of
7. On the driver side, tighten the jam nut 285 to
exposed threads and the position of the
305 lbf·ft (386 to 413 N·m). On the passenger
outer tie rod to ease installation.
side, tighten the clamp nut 30 to 36 lbf·ft (41 to
3.3 Remove the outer tie rod from the tie rod 48 N·m).
arm.
3.4 Unthread the outer tie rod from the inner
tie rod. If necessary, hold the inner tie rod
in place with a backup wrench on the
inner tie rod flat.
Discard the outer tie rod.
3.5 Remove and discard the jam nut.
3.6 Install the new jam nut.
3.7 Install the new outer tie rod on the inner
tie rod. Ensure that the outer tie rod posi-
tion and number of exposed threads is the
same as noted during step 3.2.
3.8 Tighten the jam nut.
4. For passenger-side outer tie rod replacement,
proceed as follows. See Fig. 1.
4.1 Remove and discard the cotter pin and
castellated nut.
4.2 Remove the outer tie rod from the tie rod
arm.
4.3 Loosen the tie rod clamp. Note the num-
ber of exposed threads and the position of
the outer tie rod to ease installation.
4.4 Unthread the outer tie rod from the inner
tie rod. If necessary, hold the inner tie rod
in place with a backup wrench on the
inner tie rod flat.
Discard the outer tie rod.
5
2
1
5
2
4
07/27/2009 3 f462168
1. Castellated Nut and Cotter Pin 4. Tie Rod Jam Nut 6. Tie Rod Clamp Nut
2. Steering Tie Rod Arm 5. Inner Tie Rod Flat 7. Tie Rod Clamp
3. Outer Tie Rod
12. Install the jam nut on the driver side, or the tie
07/24/2009 f462112 rod clamp on the passenger side.
1. Driver-Side Outer Tie 8. Bellows Seat 13. Thread the inner tie rod into the outer tie rod.
Rod 9. Pinch Bolt
2. Tie Rod Jam Nut 10. Tie Rod Clamp 14. Tighten the jam nut on the driver side, or tie rod
3. Small Oetiker Clamp 11. Tie Rod Clamp Nut clamp nut on the passenger side.
4. Bellows 12. Passenger-Side
5. Large Oetiker Clamp Outer Tie Rod 15. Align the rack and pinion using the instructions in
6. Inner Tie Rod Flat Subject 100.
7. Inner Tie Rod Ball 16. Tighten the jam nut 285 to 305 lbf·ft (386 to 413
Joint N·m), or tighten the tie rod clamp nut 30 to 36
lbf·ft (41 to 48 N·m).
Fig. 1, Tie Rod and Bellows Assembly
General Description The pressure required for the steering gear to over-
come resistance at the steered wheels is provided by
the power steering pump. The maximum operating
NOTE: Procedures in this section have been pressure for the Sheppard HD94 steering gear is
slightly modified from the original component 2683 psi (18 499 kPa). As the steering wheel is
manufacturer’s service manual. See the manu- turned faster or slower, more or less fluid is required
facturer’s service literature by the gear.
(www.rhsheppard.com/home.htm) for addi-
tional information. Principles of Operation
The Sheppard HD94 integral power steering gear
(see Fig. 1) is a full-time hydraulic steering unit that When the engine is running, a constant low-pressure
uses pressurized hydraulic fluid to help the driver flow of hydraulic fluid through the steering gear al-
turn the front wheels. The HD94 is designed for ve- lows for instant response as the steering wheel is
hicles with a front axle capacity between 10,000 and turned. The constant flow also helps to absorb road
14,600 pounds (4545 and 6635 kg). The Sheppard shock and eliminate steering wheel kick.
HD94 gear can steer a vehicle within this front axle
When the driver turns the steering wheel, the force is
weight rating through a turn at low speed and engine
transmitted to the steering gear input shaft via the
idle.
3 8
5 7
1 6
08/28/2008 f462150
1. Cylinder Head 6. Piston Ring
2. Automatic Relief Plunger (in cylinder head) 7. Automatic Relief Plunger (in bearing cap cover)
3. Piston Rack 8. Input Shaft
4. Sector Shaft 9. Bearing Cap Cover
5. Rotary Valve Shaft
Removal Installation
1. Place the front tires in the straight-ahead posi- 1. Align the holes in the steering gear housing with
tion. If possible, drive the vehicle in a straight the holes in the frame rail. See Fig. 1. Place a
line for a short distance, stopping at the place washer over each bolt and install the three bolts.
where the work is to be done. Shut down the Install a washer and nut on the end of each bolt
engine, apply the parking brakes, and chock the and tighten the nuts 388 lbf·ft (526 N·m).
tires.
NOTICE
Do not turn the steering wheel or the steering
shaft more than a half turn (except for alignment
purposes) during the removal and installation
procedures. Doing so may damage the clock- A
spring in a vehicle equipped with an air bag. A
10° 10°
1 2
10° 10°
10/15/98 f461694
1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
Removal Installation
NOTE: This procedure is for removing the pit- WARNING
man arm from the steering gear. If replacement
of the pitman arm is required, the pitman arm If the pitman arm is not installed to the proper
must also be removed from the drag link. specifications, it could come loose, causing an
accident that could result in death or severe per-
NOTE: The pitman arm is easiest to remove sonal injury.
while the steering gear is installed on the ve-
1. Align the timing marks on the pitman arm with
hicle.
the timing marks on the sector shaft. See Fig. 1.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes, Install the pitman arm on the sector shaft.
and chock the tires.
DANGER
Do not use a hammer or apply heat to the pitman
arm to remove it. Doing so could damage the
sector shaft, the pitman arm, or the seals, and
possibly lead to loss of vehicle control resulting
in death or serious personal injury.
IMPORTANT: The pitman arm has alignment
tabs, while the retainer has restraining tabs. Do
not bend the alignment tabs out of the pitman 02/09/2001 f461856a
arm.
Fig. 1, Timing Mark Alignment
2. Using a punch, bend the restraining tabs out of
the retainer. 2. Install the pitman arm retainer on the sector
3. Using an Allen drive socket and an impact shaft. Be sure to align the restraining tabs of the
wrench, remove the retainer. If the retainer is retainer with the notches of the pitman arm. Coat
undamaged, it may be reused. Otherwise, re- the retainer threads with anti-seize compound. If
place the retainer. using a new retainer, apply a coat of anti-seize to
both sides of the friction washer.
4. Lubricate the end of the sector shaft with clean
chassis lube. Failure to lubricate the face of the 3. Tighten the retainer 350 lbf·ft (475 N·m).
retainer will cause difficulty in removing the pit-
man arm. WARNING
5. Slide the pitman arm puller over the pitman arm. Do not back off the torque value to align the
Align the hole in the puller with the sector shaft tabs. If the pitman arm is not installed to the
and washer. proper specifications, it could come loose, caus-
6. Insert the Allen drive socket through the puller ing an accident that could result in death or se-
and into the retainer socket. Use an impact vere personal injury.
wrench to back off the retainer. The retainer will 4. Continue tightening the retainer past the speci-
act as a jack screw to disconnect the pitman arm fied value until two of the notches in the retainer
from the steering gear. align with the tabs of the washer.
WARNING
Once the retainer is tightened to specifications
and locked in place, do not retighten the retainer.
Constant tightening of the retainer may cause the
pitman arm to come loose, causing an accident
that could result in death or severe personal in-
jury.
5. Using a punch and hammer, bend the restraining
tabs of the washer into the notches on the re-
tainer. See Fig. 2. Apply torque seal, OGP
F900WHITE, to the tabs.
01/18/2001 f461854
NOTICE
Do not turn the input shaft during repairs. Dam-
age to the steering gear will result.
01/12/2001 f461853
3. Place a drain pan under the power steering gear. 1. Bearing Cap Cover 2. Socket
Draining the system is not necessary, but some
fluid will be lost. Fig. 2, Input Seal Removal
4. Remove the rubber boot from the input shaft.
10. Clean the bearing cap cover with a suitable sol-
5. Clean all outside dirt from around the input shaft. vent.
6. Remove the four capscrews that attach the bear- 11. Place the bearing cap cover face down on a
ing cap cover to the bearing cap, and remove clean work surface. Using a suitable size driver
the bearing cap cover. and an arbor press, tap the new input seal into
IMPORTANT: The thrustwasher may stick to the the bearing cap cover with the gold spring facing
bearing cap cover. If it does, reinstall the thrust- the bottom of the cover. Coat the outside diam-
eter of the input seal with clean chassis lube.
washer on the bearing cap before proceeding.
12. With the lip facing out, press a new salt seal into
7. Place the bearing cap cover on a clean work sur-
the bearing cap cover until it is flush with the
face. Pry the salt seal out of the bearing cap
face of the cover. See Fig. 3. Make sure the seal
cover, and discard the seal. See Fig. 1.
lip, or silver spring, is facing the top of the cover.
8. Tap the input (high pressure) seal out of the
13. Install a new O-ring onto the outside of the
bearing cap cover using a suitable size socket or
cover. Tap the cover washer, if equipped, into the
seal driver, and discard the seal; see Fig. 2.
cover.
9. Remove the O-ring from the bearing cap cover,
14. Fill the area between the seals with clean chas-
and discard the O-ring.
sis grease. Lubricate the O-ring and seal lips
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
20. If needed, fill the power steering reservoir with
automatic transmission fluid that meets Dexron
III or TES-389 specifications.
21. Start the engine and check for leaks.
NOTE: Two rubber boots are included in the 3. Start the engine and allow the pressure in the
steering system to push the sector shaft cover
replacement kit. Choose the boot that will pro- out of the housing. Shut down the engine when
vide the tightest fit on the input shaft. the cover exits the housing.
17. Install a rubber boot over the input shaft. Make 4. Remove and discard the rubber V-boot on the
sure the boot is below the splines and contacts sector shaft.
the bearing cap cover when installed.
5. If the snap ring cover is equipped with a protec-
18. Remove the tape from the input shaft splines. tive cap, pry the cap out of the bore with a
19. Slide the steering driveline lower end yoke onto screwdriver. Do not damage the housing.
the input shaft and install a new M10 x 1.25 IMPORTANT: When working with snap ring cov-
pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut 30 to 35 lbf·ft ers, remove the factory-installed silicone pro-
(41 to 47 N·m).
tectant from the snap ring and carefully clean
the cover area before disassembly.
seals.
Fig. 4, Excluder Seal Installation
IMPORTANT: The sector shaft oil seals are two-
piece seals. It is necessary to bend the seals to Fig. 5. It may be necessary to tap on the sector
shaft to properly seat it into the housing.
install them. Once a seal is installed, work it into
place with your fingers or a blunt seal pick until
it is properly seated. Push only on the body of
the seal and not on the seal lip. Damage to the 1
seal lip will cause an oil leak. The seals should
look perfectly round when installed.
10. Install one new oil seal into the steering gear
housing, and one new oil seal into the sector
shaft cover. When properly fitted, the black lip of
the seals will face the inside of the gear.
Lubricate the seals with clean chassis lube.
11. Install the two-piece L-seal as follows.
11.1 Insert the black pressure seal into the
housing with the L-side facing out. 01/24/2001 2 f461888
1. Sector Shaft Timing Mark
11.2 Insert the backup ring into the L-side of 2. Piston Rack Timing Marks
the pressure seal. When assembled cor-
rectly, the back-up ring will be on the side Fig. 5, Timing Mark Alignment
of the pressure seal facing out.
11.3 Apply a coat of clean chassis lube to the 14. Install the sector shaft cover over the sector
L-seal. shaft. When properly installed, the sector shaft
cover should be flush with or below the snap ring
12. Apply a coat of clean chassis lube to the lip of groove in the housing.
the excluder seal, if equipped, and install the ex-
cluder seal over the sector shaft splines and into CAUTION
the seal groove of the cover. See Fig. 4.
13. Install the sector shaft in the housing. Make sure When installing a snap-ring-style cover, the cover
that the timing mark on the sector shaft is placed must be flush or below the groove in the hous-
between the two timing marks on the piston. See
Relief plungers prevent the power steering pump in the bore. Repeat this procedure for the other
from operating at maximum relief pressure at the end relief plunger.
of steering travel. When properly adjusted, the relief 5. Install the plastic caps on the plunger bosses.
plungers reduce system temperature and excessive
stress on the mechanical components of the steering 6. Set the automatic relief plungers using the proce-
system by preventing the system from reaching full dure in "Setting Automatic Relief Plungers."
pump pressure when the axle stops contact the
axles. A relief plunger is located in each end of the
steering gear. One plunger is located in a small hole
Setting Automatic Relief
in the bearing cap cover next to the input shaft, while Plungers
the other is located near the cylinder head.
NOTE: Check that the axle stops are set cor-
NOTICE rectly before setting the relief plungers.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
Failure to set or adjust the automatic relief plung-
and chock the tires.
ers could result in damage to the steering sys-
tem. Relief plungers must be set or adjusted 2. Verify that the steering gear has automatic relief
whenever a steering gear is replaced. plungers. Steering gears with automatic relief
plungers will have the word AUTO cast into the
side of the housing. See Fig. 1. Steering gears
Adjusting Automatic Relief with automatic relief plungers also have plastic
Plungers caps over the plunger bosses.
3. Using a jack, raise the vehicle until the front
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes, wheels are off the ground.
and chock the tires.
4. Start the engine and let it idle. Ensure the axle
2. Verify that the steering gear has automatic relief stops are set for maximum wheel cut with a mini-
plungers. Steering gears with automatic relief mum of 1 inch (25 mm) clearance between the
plungers will have the word AUTO cast into the tire and any part of the chassis.
side of the housing. See Fig. 1. Steering gears
with automatic relief plungers also have plastic 5. Turn the wheels from side to side until the axle
caps over the plunger bosses. stops contact the axle. This allows the piston in
the steering gear to contact the automatic
plunger assemblies and push them back to their
set positions. The axle stops must make contact
with the axle.
f462148
NOTE: As the tires reach the end of travel, you
08/25/2008
will feel the piston contact the relief plunger.
Fig. 1, Automatic Relief Plunger Identifier Continue turning the tires until the spindle
reaches the axle stop bolt.
3. Remove the plastic caps from both plunger
bosses. 6. Return the tires to the straight-ahead position
and lower the vehicle until the tires contact the
ground.
NOTICE
7. Turn the steering wheel to a full-lock position in
Make sure there are no sharp edges on the both directions, checking for chassis flexion
punch that could damage the bore. Take care when the axle stops contact the axle. If the chas-
when using the punch to ensure that the relief sis flexes, adjust the automatic relief plungers
plunger bore is not damaged. If the relief plunger using the procedure in "Adjusting Automatic Re-
bore is damaged, a leak may occur. lief Plungers."
4. Using a 1/4-inch punch and ball-peen hammer,
carefully drive the relief plunger in until it bottoms
Under normal use, automatic relief plungers do not NOTE: The relief plunger flange is held in place
need regular maintenance. The automatic relief with patch lock, and the threads are staked at
plunger is serviceable only as a kit and is only re- the factory. It will require approximately 15 to 20
quired if a leak is present. See Specifications 400 lbf·in (170 to 225 N·cm) to remove the flange.
for part numbers. Follow the appropriate procedure
for the relief plunger in need of repair. 7. Carefully insert a screwdriver bit (mounted in a
ratchet) into the plunger bore to hold the slotted
head of the relief plunger body in place. Using
Cylinder Head Automatic an open-end wrench to hold the flange across
Relief Plunger Repair the flat sides, carefully turn the flange to remove
it from the plunger body; see Fig. 2. Discard the
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes, flange.
and chock the tires.
2. Verify that the steering gear has automatic relief
plungers. Steering gears with automatic relief
plungers will have the word AUTO cast into the 1 3 4
housing; see Fig. 1. Steering gears with auto-
matic relief plungers also have plastic caps on
the plunger bosses.
08/25/2008 f462148
5. Remove the plastic plug from the plunger boss. 8. Remove the plunger body from the spring pin
and discard the plunger body. It may be neces-
sary to tap the plunger body to remove it from
NOTICE the spring pin. Use of a 1/8-inch pin punch is
When driving the relief plunger assembly, do not recommended.
allow the 1/4-inch punch to contact the bore, and IMPORTANT: Check the plunger bore for nicks
do not hit the plunger with excessive force. Fail-
or gouges before installing the plunger assem-
ure to follow these directions could result in
damage to the steering gear or relief plunger as- bly. Be careful not to introduce dirt or contami-
sembly. nants in the plunger bore when reassembling.
6. Place the cartridge in a vise. Using a 1/4-inch 9. Cover the O-ring on the new plunger assembly
punch and hammer, carefully drive the relief with a light coat of grease. Install the plunger
plunger assembly in until it bottoms in the bore. body through the spring pin; see Fig. 3.
The spring pin, flange, and plunger body should
now be accessible for repair. WARNING
The flange must contact the spring pin. If it does
NOTICE not, a leak or steering gear damage may result.
Do not allow the screwdriver bit to slip off the This could cause steering failure, possibly result-
plunger body. Damage to the bore could result. ing in personal injury or property damage.
2
3
04/26/2001 f461901
1. Bearing Cap 3. Spring Pin
2. Plunger Body
Most single steering gears can be bled simply by 2. Fill the power steering reservoir with automatic
turning the steering wheel all the way from one axle transmission fluid that meets Dexron III or TES-
stop to the other. Some gears, however, require 389 specifications.
bleeding through a bleeder screw. 3. Find the bleeder plug on the sector shaft bore
above the pitman arm.
Typical Steering Gear 4. Find and remove the tape covering the 1/8-inch
Allen bleeder screw in the center of the head.
1. Shut down the engine and apply the parking
brakes. 5. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
6. Turn the wheels to full left. Using a 1/8-inch Allen
WARNING wrench, open the bleeder screw about four turns.
Fill the power steering system with only ap- IMPORTANT: Do not remove the bleeder screw
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic from the bleeder plug. A check ball behind the
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid screw may be lost.
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks 7. With the bleeder screw open, turn the wheels to
could result in loss of power steering assist and full right. At the full right turn position, close the
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per- bleeder screw.
sonal injury or property damage.
IMPORTANT: When the bleeder screw is open,
2. Fill the power steering reservoir with automatic
turn the steering wheel to the right only. Turning
transmission fluid that meets Dexron III or TES-
389 specifications. the steering wheel to the left with the bleeder
screw open will introduce additional air into the
3. With the weight of the vehicle on the ground, system.
start the engine and allow it idle.
8. Turn the steering wheel back to full left and re-
4. Turn the wheels to full left. Hold the wheel in peat the two steps above, until no aeration is
pressure for about five seconds once you reach found in the bled oil.
an axle lock.
9. Check the fluid level in the power steering reser-
5. Turn the wheels to full right. Hold the wheel in voir and fill if necessary.
pressure for about five seconds once you reach
an axle lock.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 three more times.
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
Sheppard HD94 power steering gears use ATF fluid
that meets Dexron III or TES-389 specifications.
Tools and replacement/repair kits can be ordered
from:
R. H. Sheppard Co., Inc.
101 Philadelphia Street
Hanover, Pennsylvania 17331-0877
1-800-274-7437
Principles of Operation
When the driver turns the steering wheel, that force
travels from the steering wheel to the steering gear
input shaft. A torsion bar, pinned at one end to the
input shaft and at the other end to the worm shaft,
turns with the input shaft and exerts a rotational force
on the worm shaft. In response to the force exerted
by the torsion bar, the worm shaft moves the rack
piston forward or backward in the gear housing by
means of a series of recirculating balls in the spiral
channels of the worm shaft. As the rack piston slides
back and forth, it turns the sector shaft. The sector
shaft swings the pitman arm, which pulls or pushes
the drag link. The drag link moves the axle steering
arm, steering the vehicle.
The rack piston’s axial movement is resisted by its
engagement to the sector shaft, which is linked to
the steered wheels. Because of this resistance, the
torsion bar activates the control valve, which directs
pressurized fluid to the upper or lower cylinder cavity
(depending on the direction of turn). The pressurized
fluid assists in moving the rack piston up or down in
the cylinder bore.
Most TAS steering gears are equipped with two pop-
pet (unloading) valves, one at each end of the rack
piston. As the front wheels reach the axle stop—the
farthest the wheels can turn in either direction—one
58
57
56
47 52 55
48 51
50
50 53 54
49
46
45
44
27
41 28
43
42 30
41
40 31 28
39 33
38 34 29
35
36 32 27
37 26
25
24
23 22
21 20
18
19 15
13 10
18 9
17 8
16
14
12
11
7
6 4
5 3
2
1
05/15/2008 f462082
1. Bolts, Valve Housing 21. Seal Ring 40. Dirt and Water Seal, Trunnion
2. Dirt and Water Seal 22. O-Ring 41. Retaining Ring
3. Retaining Ring 23. Bearing Adjuster 42. Dirt Seal
4. Input Shaft Seal 24. Adjuster Locknut 43. Roller Bearing
5. Auxiliary Port Plug 25. Seal Ring, Rack Piston 44. Gear Housing
6. O-Ring, Auxiliary Port Plug 26. O-Ring, Backup 45. Washer, Stopscrew
7. Valve Housing 27. Poppet Adjuster Seat and 46. Fixed Stop Screw, Poppet
8. Relief Valve Sleeve Assembly 47. Service Sealing Jam Nut
9. O-Ring, Relief Valve 28. Poppet 48. Service Poppet Adjusting Screw
10. Relief Valve Cap 29. Push Tube 49. Washer, Spacer
11. Seal Ring, Large 30. Spacer Rod 50. Output Seal
12. Seal Ring, Small 31. Poppet Spring 51. Sector Shaft
13. Seal Ring 32. Rack Piston 52. Adjusting Screw, Shaft
14. O-Ring 33. Steel Balls 53. Retainer, Adjusting Screw
15. Seal Ring 34. Ball Return Guide Halves 54. Gasket, Side Cover
16. O-Ring, Valve Housing 35. Seal, Ball Return Guide Cap 55. Side Cover and Bushing/Bearing
17. Thrust Washer, Thick 36. Ball Return Guide Cap Assembly
18. Roller Thrust Bearing 37. Torx® Screws 56. Vent Plug, Side Cover
19. Input Shaft/Valve/Worm 38. Plug, Auto-Bleed 57. Jam Nut
Assembly 39. Grease Fitting 58. Special Bolts, Side Cover
20. Thrust Washer, Thin
Input Shaft Seal Replacement 4. Remove the dirt and water seal from the steering
gear. Save this seal to determine the correct size
of the new seal.
NOTE: The power steering pump is used in this
procedure to force out the input shaft seal. To 5. Using a clean cloth, remove all grease from
use this procedure, the power steering pump around the input shaft.
should have a minimum of 1500 psi (10 342 6. Using a screwdriver inserted into the notch
kPa) available. formed in the end of the retaining ring, remove
the retaining ring. See Fig. 2. Be careful not to
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
scratch the bore with the screwdriver.
and chock the tires.
2. Disconnect the return line from the steering gear
and plug the line. See Fig. 1. Cap the return port
of the gear with a high-pressure fitting.
1
03/10/94 f460575a
1. Retaining Ring
A. Cap the return line and the return port. 7. Slip the driveline lower end yoke back on the
input shaft, then insert but do not tighten the
Fig. 1, Disconnected Return Line pinch bolt. See Fig. 3.
1
NOTICE
Do not pound the U-joint or lower end yoke on or
off the input shaft. Internal damage to the steer-
ing gear can result.
3. Disconnect the steering driveline from the steer-
ing gear input shaft.
3.1 Remove and discard the pinch bolt and 2
nut from the steering driveline lower end
yoke.
IMPORTANT: Do not turn the steering gear
input shaft when removing the lower end 03/10/94 f460576a
yoke. 1. Pinch Bolt 2. Pinch Bolt Nut
3.2 Remove the lower end yoke from the input Fig. 3, Pinch Bolt Installation
shaft. Push the driveline shaft into the
driveline tube as you remove the lower
end yoke.
03/10/94 f460578a
18.1 Clean the input shaft and the inside of the 1. Housing Timing Mark
driveline yoke. 2. Sector Shaft Alignment Mark
18.2 Apply a thin film of grease to the yoke Fig. 8, Timing Mark Placement
splines.
3. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut that attach
the drag link to the pitman arm. Disconnect the
drag link from the pitman arm.
11/19/2001 f461926
10/08/2003 f461979
WARNING
Failure to install and lock a new cotter pin in the
Fig. 9, Lash Check
ball stud and nut could result in disengagement
5. Loosen the adjusting screw jam nut. of the parts and loss of steering control, which
could result in personal injury or property dam-
6. If no lash was detected in step 4, use a screw- age.
driver to turn the sector shaft adjusting screw
counterclockwise until you feel lash at the sector 10. Continue to tighten the castle nut until a slot on
shaft. See Fig. 10. the nut aligns with the hole in the ball stud. Do
not reverse the tightening direction of the nut
IMPORTANT: Do not use more than 10 lbf·ft (14 when locating the cotter pin hole. Install a new
N·m) of force when tightening the adjusting cotter pin in the ball stud and nut, then lock the
screw. cotter pin in place.
7. Slowly turn the adjusting screw clockwise until no
lash is felt at the pitman arm. From this position, NOTICE
turn the adjusting screw clockwise 1/8 to 3/16 of
a turn more. Hold the adjusting screw in place Do not use a power grease gun to add grease to
and tighten the jam nut 43 lbf·ft (58 N·m). the sector shaft bearing. Doing so could damage
the high-pressure seal and contaminate the hy-
draulic fluid.
10.2 Pull hard on the steering wheel. Put up to leases the steering wheel. Continue turning
40 lbf (178 N) pull on a 20-inch diameter only while the steering wheel is held at full
steering wheel. turn.
10.3 Release the steering wheel and shut off 13.2 Using an Allen wrench and finger pressure
the engine. only, turn the adjusting screw clockwise
11. Loosen the sealing nut and back out the adjust- until the Allen wrench stops.
ing screw until the adjusting screw is 1 inch (2.5
cm) past the nut. See Fig. 12. Tighten the nut WARNING
against the housing.
If the adjusting screw protrudes more than 1-1/16
inches (27 mm) from the sealing nut, the screw
could fall out of the steering gear, resulting in
loss of power steering. This could cause an acci-
dent resulting in personal injury or property dam-
age.
13.3 Back off the adjusting screw 3-1/4 turns
and tighten the nut 35 lbf·ft (47 N·m).
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
02/28/94 f460585a fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
Fig. 12, Adjusting Screw Position could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
12. Set the lower poppet. sonal injury or property damage.
12.1 Start the engine and let it idle. 14. The poppets have now been completely reset.
Check the power steering reservoir. If needed,
12.2 Turn the steering wheel in the original di-
add fluid.
rection (the timing mark will move toward
the adjusting screw) until axle stop contact 15. Lower the vehicle.
is made.
12.3 Hold the steering wheel in this position
with up to 40 lbf (178 N) pull on a 20-inch
diameter steering wheel for 10 seconds,
then release. Repeat this hold-and-release
process as many times as necessary
while completing the next step.
13. Position the adjusting screw.
13.1 With the steering wheel held tightly at full
turn, loosen the nut and hold it in place
with a wrench.
IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to turn the ad-
justing screw in any farther. Pause the
turning-in process each time the driver re-
2
A
05/28/2008 f462143
3.3 Slide the yoke on the input shaft and in- 11/16/2001
3 f461924
stall a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the A. The timing mark on the pitman arm must line up
nut 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47 N·m). with the timing mark on the sector shaft.
3.4 Apply torque seal, OGP F900WHITE, to 1. Pitman Arm 3. Castle Nut
the exposed bolt threads and the nut to 2. Drag Link
indicate the fasteners have been properly
tightened. Fig. 3, Pitman Arm
Post-Service Checks the steering wheel and install it in the correct po-
sition. See Fig. 1.
After power steering components have been worked
on and before the vehicle is placed into service, the
following items must be checked.
WARNING
Failure to check the following items could result
10° 10°
in damage to the power steering system. This
could cause loss of steering assist and spillage
1 2
on the roadway, which could cause personal in-
jury or property damage.
1. Operate the engine at low idle while turning the 10° 10°
steering wheel through several full-left and full-
right turns. With the engine running and the
power steering system at operating temperature,
turn the steering wheel slowly from stop to stop 05/10/2007 f462075
while checking the power steering reservoir for 1. 9 o’Clock Position 2. 3 o’Clock Position
frothing or a change in the fluid level (signs that
air is trapped in the system). Fig. 1, Steering Wheel Centered
If air is present, inspect the system for leaking
hoses or loose fittings. Replace the hoses or
tighten the fittings as necessary. Bleed the air
from the system.
2. With the engine turned off and warm, check the
power steering reservoir fluid level. If needed,
add power steering fluid.
3. At full-left and full-right wheel cuts, be sure the
axle stops (on the rear-side of the spindle) are
set so there is at least 1/2-inch (13-mm) clear-
ance between the tires and any fixed compo-
nents that are attached to the vehicle. Clearance
between moving components should be 3/4 of an
inch (19 mm). If clearance is less than this, reset
the axle stops.
4. Check that the poppets are set correctly. If nec-
essary, adjust them. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 100.
5. If there are still problems with the power steering
system, perform the troubleshooting procedures
in Section 46.11. Otherwise, go to the next step.
6. Test drive the vehicle and check the steering
wheel spoke position. With the front tires pointing
straight ahead, check the position of the steering
wheel spokes. They must be pointing within ±10
degrees of the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions
on a four-spoke steering wheel. If not, remove
WARNING
Fill the power steering system with only ap-
proved, clean hydraulic fluid. Mixing hydraulic
fluids and using unapproved hydraulic fluid
could lead to seal deterioration and leaks. Leaks
could result in loss of power steering assist and
spillage on the roadway, which could cause per-
sonal injury or property damage.
TRW TAS power steering gears use automatic trans-
mission fluid that meets Dexron II, Dexron III, Mer-
con, or ATF +4™ specifications.
Exxon Polyrex® EP2 Grease (045422) is approved
for use on steering gear components.
Special tools can be ordered from:
SPX Kent-Moore
28635 Mount Road
Warren, Michigan 48092-3499
1-800-328-6657
General Information
The fuel system delivers fuel to the engine. It con-
sists of the engine fuel system components, the fuel
tanks and tank mounting components, and the fuel
lines and shut-off valves.
The engine fuel system components include fuel fil-
ters, injectors, fuel transfer pumps, and a fuel gover-
nor. For service and maintenance procedures, refer
to the applicable engine manufacturer’s service and
maintenance manuals.
The fuel tanks, which provide a clean storage area
for fuel, are held in place by metal straps and brack-
ets that transfer the load to the vehicle frame. A cab
access step assembly or an air fairing attaches to
the fuel-tank straps and brackets.
Flexible, reinforced fiber-braid hoses (fuel lines) bring
fuel from the tank to the engine, and return surplus
fuel from the engine to the tank.
The EquiFlo® Inboard Fuel System is standard on all
single-tank vehicles and recommended for all dual-
tank systems. See Fig. 1. This system includes the
following:
• inboard-routed fuel lines
• suction and return lines installed in a common
fuel-tank opening
• fuel-tank vent and line located on the top of
the tank
• a new quarter-turn, non-vented fuel cap
The fuel lines are routed inboard of the frame rails to
the shut-off valves (if equipped), which are normally
located on the left-hand frame rail.
Fuel is drawn equally from, and returned to, each
tank so that their levels remain equal. The suction
and return fuel lines, although entering the fuel tank
through the same opening, are designed to direct the
fuel flow to the bottom of the tank. See Fig. 1. This
ensures thorough mixing of the fuel before it is drawn
up by the suction line so that vapor can disperse
(and warm fuel is not recirculated in electronic en-
gines).
7
6 8
B
5 A
2
8
3
3
2 2
7
1 6
5
3
4
1
11/06/95 f470153
NOTE: Arrows indicate direction of flow.
A. To fuel pump B. From engine
1 Drain 4. Fuel Tank 7. Vent Line
2. Supply (Suction) Line 5. Fuel Cap 8. Frame Rail
3. Return Line 6. Vent
Replacement 1 2 3
A
If there is any damage to the fuel tank, replace it.
25 5 CAUTION
Fuel tanks can be damaged by direct isolator
pressure on the tank weld seam, and by over-
tightening the fuel tank bands. Be sure the weld
2 seam aligns with reliefs in the isolators and that
the bands are tightened to specification.
1 13. Tighten the inner hexnuts alternately in stages
until each is tightened 30 to 35 lbf·ft (41 to 47
N·m). When both hexnuts have been tightened,
install a jam nut on each hexnut. Hold each hex-
nut with a 15/16-inch wrench while tightening its
3 jam nut 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m).
4 18" 4 14. Make certain the fuel lines are clean, then install
(46 cm) them on their fittings on the fuel tank.
Coat the pipe plug threads with Loctite® 592, or
an equivalent. Install pipe plugs in any remaining
11/06/95 5 f470155
open threaded holes.
Make sure the tank is rotated so the vent is located at the 15. Install the chassis fairings. For instructions, see
top. Section 31.04, Subject 100.
Note: The fuel filler neck should be rotated 25 degrees 16. Fill the fuel tank with clean fuel. Prime the en-
outboard of vertical on standard tanks and 15 degrees gine fuel pump. See the engine manufacturer’s
on auxiliary tanks.
operation and maintenance manual.
1. Fuel Tank Bracket 4. 4 x 4 Wooden Block
2. Fuel Tank 5. Wooden Pallet On dual tank installations with fuel shutoff
3. Lift-Truck Fork valve(s), open the valve(s).
Fig. 2, Preventing the Fuel Tank From Rolling
10.2 Install a hardened flatwasher and the in-
ner 5/8–11 hexnut, but do not tighten it
yet.
11. Move the new tank fore or aft until the distance
between the forward edge of the tank and the
tank band is equal to the distance measured in
Fig. 1.
NOTE: On vehicles equipped with side fairings,
the fuel tank filler neck does not have to be cen-
tered in the fill door opening of the side fairing.
The centerline of the fuel tank cap is to be
within 1 inch (25 mm) of either side of the cen-
terline of the fill door opening. See Fig. 4. Do
not move the fuel tanks to center the fuel tank
filler neck in the fill door opening.
12. Install the other tank band around the tank; then
insert the isolators under the brackets so that the
relief in each isolator aligns with the tank longitu-
dinal weld seam. See Fig. 3.
1
2
3
4
5
6
2 3 4 5 6
1
11
10
8
9
01/07/2005 f470150
1. Large Clevis Pin 5. Eye Bolt 9. Small Clevis Pin
2. Tensioner Lug 6. Fuel Tank Band 10. Fuel Tank Bracket
3. Hexnut, 5/8–11 7. Band Isolator 11. Bracket Isolator
4. Jam Nut, 5/8–11 8. Fuel Tank
C C 1
11/07/95 f470114
A. Centerline of fill door opening
B. Centerline of fuel cap
C. 1 inch (25 mm)
D. Fuel cap centerline to be within this area.
1. Fill Door Opening 2. Fuel Cap
CAUTION
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion
of the metals, resulting in damage to the compo-
nents or parts.
8. Position the new tank band, with band isolator,
around the tank. Insert the bracket isolator under
the bracket so that a relief in the isolator aligns
with the tank longitudinal weld seam. See Fig. 1.
CAUTION
Fuel tanks can be damaged by direct isolator
pressure on the tank weld seam, and by over-
tightening the fuel tank bands. Be sure the weld
1
2
3
4
5
6
2 3 4 5 6
1
11
10
8
9
01/07/2005 f470150
1. Large Clevis Pin 5. Eye Bolt 9. Small Clevis Pin
2. Tensioner Lug 6. Fuel Tank Band 10. Fuel Tank Bracket
3. Hexnut, 5/8–11 7. Band Isolator 11. Bracket Isolator
4. Jam Nut, 5/8–11 8. Fuel Tank
Replacement
1 3
1. Support the tank and remove the fuel tank band 2
from the bracket that is being replaced. See 6
Subject 110 for instructions.
2. Remove the fasteners that attach the bracket to
the frame rail and remove the bracket. See
Fig. 1.
3. Install the bracket.
2
3.1 Apply Alumilastic® compound, or equiva- 4
lent, between the fuel tank bracket and
the frame rail. 2
4
CAUTION 5
11/06/95 f470151
Failure to apply Alumilastic compound, or an
1. Large Mounting Bolt, 5/8–11 x 4 in
equivalent, to areas where aluminum and steel 2. Hardened Flatwasher
parts contact each other, could lead to corrosion 3. Frame Rail
of the metals, resulting in damage to the compo- 4. Hexnut, 5/8–11
nents or parts. 5. Fuel Tank Bracket
6. Small Mounting Bolt, 5/8–11 x 2-1/4 in
3.2 Position the new tank bracket against the
outside of the frame rail. See Fig. 1. Fig. 1, Fuel Tank Bracket Installation
3.3 Insert two 5/8–11 x 4-inch bolts with
washers through the top holes in the
frame rail and bracket.
3.4 Insert two 5/8–11 x 2-1/4 inch bolts with
washers through the bottom holes in the
frame rail and bracket.
3.5 Install hardened washers and hexnuts on
all four bolts. Tighten the hexnuts 160
lbf·ft (217 N·m).
3.6 Install the fuel tank band. See Sub-
ject 110 for instructions.
Flushing 13. Install the fuel tank(s) on the vehicle. For instruc-
tions, refer to Subject 100.
In the event of a catastrophic failure of the high-
pressure fuel pump, it is necessary to clean the fuel
tanks and all other system components between the
tanks and the engine. For information about cleaning
the engine components after a failure, refer to the
engine manufacturer’s service literature.
IMPORTANT: Always follow EPA and local regu-
lations when disposing of contaminated fuel.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, and set the parking brake. Chock the
tires.
2. Drain all of the fuel from the tank(s) into a suita-
ble container. Dispose of the contaminated fuel
in an appropriate manner.
3. Remove the tank(s) from the vehicle. For instruc-
tions, refer to Subject 100.
IMPORTANT: If the fuel tanks are equipped with
anti-siphon devices, replace the tanks following
the instructions in Subject 100, then skip to
Step 8.
4. Thoroughly steam clean the inside of the tank
until all water leaving the drain hole looks clean.
5. Install a 1/2-inch NPT magnetic drain plug, and
cap any other open outlets.
6. Put two gallons of diesel fuel in the tank, and
install the cap. Slosh the diesel around in the
tank making sure it reaches all interior surfaces.
This should collect most of any remaining conta-
minants in the tank.
7. Drain the fuel from the tank into a suitable con-
tainer, and install the 1/2-inch NPT magnetic
drain plug. Dispose of the contaminated fuel in
an appropriate manner.
8. If equipped, remove the fuel/water separator(s)
from the system. For instructions, refer to
Group 47.
9. Remove and discard the filter element. Then tho-
roughly clean the unit.
10. Install a new filter element.
11. Remove all of the fuel lines from the system and
replace them with new lines.
12. Install the fuel/water separator. For instructions,
refer to Group 47.
01/12/96 f470173
NOTE: Right-hand tank shown.
A. Orient coolant fittings toward the fuel filler neck.
B. Install fuel heater with lower loop pointing aft.
1. Mounting Capscrew 5. Mounting Clip
2. Fuel Heater 6. Backing Plate
3. Mounting Flange 7. Fuel Filler Neck
4. Gasket
Replacement 1
2
IMPORTANT: When installed in the fuel tank, A
the clearance between the bottom of the fuel
heater and the inside of the tank wall must be at 3
least 1 inch (25 mm) and no more than 2 inches 4
(51 mm). 7
5
WARNING
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en-
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald-
ing.
2. Drain the coolant. Refer to Section 20.01, Sub-
ject 100, for instructions. B
6.2 Insert the heater coil into the tank, mak- 7. Using the sequence shown in Fig. 2, recheck
ing sure that it does not contact anything each capscrew for 78 to 95 lbf·in (880 to 1080
inside the tank, such as the tank wall, the N·cm).
fuel gauge, the standpipe, or tank baffles. IMPORTANT: To ensure that the gasket seals
properly, follow the tightening sequence exactly.
10 8 6 12
1 4
3 2
11 5 7 9
01/11/96 f470171
General Information
The Webb in-line fuel heater (Fig. 1) is clamped to a
mounting bracket, which in turn is bolted to the frame
rail. Hot engine coolant circulates through the heater,
heating the fuel in the supply line.
A
3
1
4 5 6
2
6
2
1
B
01/27/2000 f470174
Replacement A
3
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine,
and chock the rear tires. Open the hood. 1
4 5 6
2
WARNING
Drain the coolant only when the coolant and en-
gine are cool. Draining it when these are hot 6
2
could cause severe personal injury due to scald- 1
ing.
2. Drain the coolant. Refer to Section 20.01 for in- B
structions. 01/27/2000 f470174
1 1 2
2
3
5
6
7
01/19/96 f470176
General Description 1
2
The Con Met fuel/water separator (Fig. 1) removes
water and solid contaminants from diesel fuel. In-
stalled on the left frame rail between the fuel tank
and the fuel transfer pump, the separator has no
moving parts and contains no filters. 3
4
2
1 3
3
7
6
8
8
12/18/95 f470162
Principles of Operation
Diesel fuel enters at the top of the separator (Fig. 2)
and flows down through a specially-designed baffle,
causing the water in the fuel to coalesce in large
droplets which then accumulate in the bottom of the
unit and can be drained by opening a valve.
4
2
3
5
B 2 7
4 6
12
8 10
9 9
3
5 11
12/19/95 f470161
7
A. From Fuel Tanks B. To Engine
6
1. Vacuum Breaker Valve
8 2. Mounting Band
8
3. Separator Body
12/18/95 f470162 4. Mounting Band Bolt, 5/16–18
NOTE: Either bottom closure or sight bowl is installed, 5. Lockwasher
not both. 6. Hexnut, 5/16–18
1. Vacuum Breaker 5. Gasket 7. Mounting Bracket
Valve 6. Sight Bowl 8. Mounting Bracket Bolt, 5/8–11
2. Reducer Bushing 7. Bottom Closure 9. Hardened Flatwasher
3. Mounting Band 8. Drain Valve 10. Locknut, 5/8–11
4. Separator Body 11. Sight Bowl (if installed)
12. Coolant Line (if installed)
Fig. 1, Con Met Fuel/Water Separator
Fig. 2, Con Met Fuel/Water Separator Mounting
2.1 Place a suitable container under the sepa-
rator body. 5. If installed, remove the sight bowl and clean it.
See Fig. 3.
2.2 With the engine shut down, open the drain
valve on the bottom of the separator body. 5.1 Unscrew the sight bowl from the separator
body.
2.3 If the accumulated water does not drain
immediately, open the vacuum breaker 5.2 Wipe the sight bowl clean using a soft
valve on the top of the separator body. cloth.
2.4 When the unit is completely drained, close 5.3 Inspect the gasket for damage and install
the drain valve. a new one if necessary. Lubricate the gas-
ket with a thin film of engine oil and install
2.5 If opened, close the vacuum breaker it on the sight bowl.
valve.
10/02/95 f470163
1. Separator Body 3. Sight Bowl
2. Gasket 4. Drain Valve
Installation
1. Check the mounting bracket locknuts for tight-
ness. If necessary, tighten the locknuts 113 lbf·ft
(153 N·m).
2. Mount the fuel/water separator vertically on the
mounting bracket. Install the mounting bands,
and secure them with 5/16–18 bolts, lockwash-
ers, and hexnuts. Tighten the hexnuts 15 lbf·ft
(20 N·m). See Fig. 2.
3. Attach the 1/2-inch NPT fuel line fittings to the
inlet and outlet ports on the separator body.
4. Apply Loctite® 271 (or equivalent) to the threads
on the 1/2-inch NPT fuel line fittings. Install the
fittings on the inlet and outlet ports on the sepa-
rator body. Tighten all fittings finger-tight plus 1/4
turn.
5. Prime the fuel/water separator with clean diesel
fuel.
5.1 Open the vacuum breaker valve.
Troubleshooting
Problem—Leaking Air in the Fuel System
Problem—Leaking Air in the Fuel System
Possible Cause Remedy
The vacuum breaker valve is loose. Tighten the vacuum breaker valve. Make sure it is tight.
There are loose or broken fuel fittings, Tighten or repair the fuel fittings, valves, or filters as needed.
valves, or filters.
Problem—Leaking Fuel
Problem—Leaking Fuel
Possible Cause Remedy
The sight bowl is loose. Tighten the sight bowl. For instructions, refer to Subject 100.
The sight bowl is cracked or broken. Replace the sight bowl. For instructions, refer to Subject 100.
There are loose or broken fittings Tighten or repair the fuel fittings as needed.
somewhere within the fuel system,
including in the return lines.
General Description
1
The fuel/water separator is mounted on the frame
2
rail, between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. Fuel
drawn to the engine travels through the fuel/water
separator, which removes water and solid contami-
nants. The fuel/water separator includes a spin-on
filter element and a sight bowl. See Fig. 1. The fuel/
water separator may also be equipped with the fol- 3
lowing optional components:
• Ignition-controlled heater to melt ice and wax in
the fuel
• Water sensor probe to alert the operator to
drain the sight bowl 4
• Manual priming pump to easily prime the fuel/
water separator
Principles of Operation
Diesel fuel enters at the top of the separator and
flows down past the heater element, if equipped, to
the top of the filter element. As the fuel flows down 5
the sides of the element, the heavier contaminants
fall directly to the collection bowl. The filter element 6
itself contains a resin that repels water and forces it
to bead and fall to the collection bowl.
7
Filtered fuel is drawn out through the top of the sepa- 10
rator, and the water and solid contaminants remain in 9 8
the collection bowl. As water collects, it completes
the circuit between the two prongs of the water sen-
sor probe, if equipped, and a warning light on the
02/02/2010 f470178
dash alerts the operator to drain the bowl.
1. Priming Pump 7. Water Sensor Probe
The heater is operated by turning on the ignition 2. Mounting Head 8. Water Sensor Probe
switch for 5 minutes before starting the engine. 3. Gasket Wiring Harness
4. Filter Element 9. Heater Wiring
5. O-Ring Harness
6. Sight Bowl 10. Drain Plug
Removal WARNING
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, Do not expose the fuel to open fire. Do not work
and chock the tires. with the fuel system near open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
Open the hood.
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
2. Place a suitable container under the fuel/water age.
separator.
5. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel/water
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ separator.
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri- 6. If equipped, disconnect the wiring harnesses
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many from the water sensor probe and the heater ele-
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water ment.
separators onto the ground.
7. Remove the fuel/water separator mounting bolts,
3. Turn the drain plug counterclockwise to open it. If and remove the fuel/water separator from its
equipped, operate the priming pump. See Fig. 1. mounting bracket.
5
6 Installation
4 1. Mount the fuel/water separator on the frame rail
3 mounting bracket, and install the mounting bolts.
7 Tighten the bolts 40 lbf·ft (55 N·m).
2 2. Remove the sight bowl and the filter element as
a unit from the new fuel/water separator.
3. Using clean motor oil or diesel fuel, lubricate the
gasket in the top of the filter element.
8 4. Make sure the drain in the sight bowl is closed,
1 then fill the filter element and bowl assembly with
9 clean fuel.
5. Install the element and bowl assembly on the
mounting head and hand-tighten it until snug.
10
6. If equipped, connect the wiring harnesses to the
water sensor probe and the heater.
11
7. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel/water separator.
02/03/2010 f470552 Tighten all fittings finger-tight plus 1/4 turn.
1. Washers (qty 2) 7. Mounting Head 8. Prime the fuel/water separator.
2. Nuts (qty 2) 8. Mounting Bolts (qty
3. Frame Rail 2) If equipped with a priming pump, loosen the
4. Fuel Outlet Port 9. Filter Element drain plug and operate the priming pump until
5. Fuel Inlet Port 10. Sight Bowl fuel comes out at the drain.
6. Priming Pump 11. Drain Plug
If not equipped with a priming pump, fill the filter
Fig. 1, Fuel/Water Separator Assembly and Installation element and sight bowl with clean fuel and crank
the engine until it starts.
4. When the fuel/water separator is completely 9. Start the engine and check for leaks.
drained, turn the drain plug clockwise to close it.
10. Shut down the engine and repair any leaks.
Replacement
1
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brakes,
2
and chock the tires.
Open the hood.
2. Place a suitable container under the fuel/water
separator.
3
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water
separators onto the ground.
3. Turn the drain plug counterclockwise to open it. If 4
equipped, operate the pump.
4. When the fuel/water separator is completely
drained, turn the drain plug clockwise to close it.
WARNING
Do not expose the fuel to open fire. Do not work
with the fuel system near open flame or intense 5
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
ing in serious personal injury or property dam- 6
age.
5. If equipped, disconnect the wiring harnesses
7
from the water sensor probe and the heater. See 10
Fig. 1. 9 8
6. Spin off the sight bowl and the filter element as a
unit. Remove the gasket from the top of the filter
element. 02/02/2010 f470178
7. Remove the sight bowl from the filter element. 1. Priming Pump 7. Water Sensor Probe
Clean the O-ring seating surface. 2. Mounting Head 8. Water Sensor Probe
3. Gasket Wiring Harness
8. Apply a thin coating of clean diesel fuel or en- 4. Filter Element 9. Heater Wiring
gine oil to the O-ring and the new gasket. 5. O-Ring Harness
6. Sight Bowl 10. Drain Plug
9. Spin the sight bowl onto the new filter element
and then fill the filter element and sight bowl as-
Fig. 1, Fuel/Water Separator Assembly
sembly with clean diesel fuel.
10. Spin the entire assembly onto the mounting head If not equipped with a priming pump, fill the filter
and tighten by hand until snug. element and sight bowl with clean fuel and crank
the engine until it starts.
11. Connect the heater and water sensor wiring har-
nesses, if equipped. 13. Start the engine and check for leaks.
12. Prime the fuel/water separator. 14. Shut down the engine and repair any leaks.
If equipped with a priming pump, loosen the
drain plug and operate the priming pump until
fuel comes out at the drain.
Replacement
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
1
Open the hood.
2
2. Place a suitable container under the fuel/water
separator.
4 3
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water 01/23/96 f470185
01/23/96 f470184
1. Drain Plug 2. Water Sensor Probe
Troubleshooting
Problem—Air Leaking into the Fuel System
Problem—Air Leaking into the Fuel System
Possible Cause Remedy
The drain is not closed. Tighten the drain valve.
The sight bowl or filter element is loose. Hand-tighten the sight bowl or filter element until snug.
There are loose, broken, or clogged fuel Tighten, clean, or repair the fuel fittings, valves, or filters as needed.
fittings, valves, or filters.
Problem—High Water Light Does Not Illuminate For 2 to 5 Seconds When Ignition is Turned to ACCESSORY
Problem—High Water Light Does Not Illuminate For 2 to 5 Seconds When Ignition is Turned to ACCESSORY
Possible Cause Remedy
Wiring connections are loose. Tighten connections as needed.
Fuel/water separator is not grounded. Check that power is on, and the fuel/water separator is grounded.
Wiring is damaged. Check for damaged wiring and replace as needed. See EZWiring for a
diagram of the sensor circuit.
Water sensor probe is damaged. Replace the water sensor probe. See Subject 130 for instructions.
General Information
The Hayden fuel cooler (Fig. 1) consists of a heat
exchanger, fuel tubing, and a rubber mounting block.
01/12/96 f470181
Removal
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine,
and chock the rear tires. Open the hood. 7
6
WARNING
Do not expose the fuel to, or work with the fuel 3
system near, open flame or intense heat. To do 8
so could cause fire, possibly resulting in serious
personal injury or property damage.
2 3 5
2. Mark the fuel fittings and lines. Disconnect the 4
fuel lines from the fittings on the fuel cooler. See 9
Fig. 1. Have a basin ready to catch the fuel that
comes out of the lines. Tie up the fuel lines to
prevent dripping.
1
4
3
02/22/96 f470158
1. Frame Rail 6. 90° Elbow
2. Bolt, 5/16–18 7. Heat Exchanger
3. Washer 8. Locknut, 5/16–18
4. Retaining Plate 9. Mounting Bracket
2
5. Biscuit
5
Fig. 2, Fuel Cooler Mounting
Installation
02/21/96 f470172
1. Frame Rail 1. Install the fuel cooler on its mounting bracket.
2. Fuel Fittings (from engine) 1.1 Position the retaining plates, biscuits,
3. Heat Exchanger front washers, and 5/16–18 bolts on the
4. Fuel Fittings (to fuel tank) fuel cooler and mounting bracket.
5. Mounting Bracket
1.2 Install the 5/16–18 locknut and rear
Fig. 1, Fuel Cooler Fittings washer. Tighten the locknuts 25 to 30
3. Remove the fuel cooler from its mounting lbf·in (280 to 340 N·cm).
bracket. See Fig. 2. 2. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel cooler.
CAUTION
To avoid damaging the connections, use a
back-up wrench on the heat exchanger fittings
when tightening the fuel line fittings.
2.2 Connect the fuel lines and tighten the fit-
tings finger-tight plus 1/4 turn.
3. Prime the engine fuel pump; refer to the engine
manufacturer’s operation and maintenance
manual.
4. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. With
the engine shut down, repair any leaks.
5. Close the hood and remove the chocks from the
tires.
Troubleshooting
Problem—Heat Exchanger Is Not Cooling the Fuel
Problem—Heat Exchanger Is Not Cooling the Fuel
Possible Cause Remedy
CAUTION
The cooling fins are dirty. Do not direct a high-pressure stream of water at the fuel cooler. This will
damage the fins.
Wearing eye protection, clean the heat exchanger fins carefully. If necessary,
use water flowing at low pressure to remove debris lodged in the fins.
The cooling fins are bent. Using a 12 fin/inch fin comb, straighten any bent fins.
The heat exchanger is clogged with Using a compatible fuel system fluid, flush out the heat exchanger in both
contaminated fuel. directions (through both fittings).
There are hairline cracks in the heat
Replace the fuel cooler.
exchanger.
The heat exchanger’s fuel tubing is dented
badly enough to restrict fuel flow past the Replace the fuel cooler.
heat exchanger.
10
2 3
9
1
8 4
D A
7
5
6 C B
02/20/2009 f470413
5
A. Fuel Inlet Flow
B. Heating Fluid Inlet Flow
C. Heating Fluid Outlet Flow
D. Fuel Outlet Flow
1. Unfiltered, Heated Fuel
4 2. Filter Element
3. Filtered Fuel
4. Fuel From Fuel Tank
5. Heat Exchanger
11 6. Heating Fluid From Engine
3
12 Fig. 3, DAVCO Fluid Circulation, Fluid-Heated Units
1 13
05/05/2009 f470530
1. Inlet Port/Check 7. Clear Cover
Valve 8. Vent Cap O-Ring
2. Lower Housing 9. Vent Cap
3. Bypass Valve 10. Collar
4. Filter Element 11. 120VAC Pre-Heater
5. Spring 12. 12VDC Pre-Heater
6. Cover O-Ring 13. Drain Valve
1 13
05/05/2009 f470530
1. Inlet Port/Check 7. Clear Cover
Valve 8. Vent Cap O-Ring
2. Lower Housing 9. Vent Cap
3. Bypass Valve 10. Collar
4. Filter Element 11. 120VAC Pre-Heater
5. Spring 12. 12VDC Pre-Heater
6. Cover O-Ring 13. Drain Valve
Filter Replacement 4
WARNING
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator 3
to heat the fuel may be diesel fuel returned from
the engine, or engine coolant. Drain the fuel/ 5
water separator only when the engine and fluids
have cooled. Draining it when the engine is hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald- 2
ing.
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
6
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work
with the fuel system near, open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result- 1
05/05/2009 f470506b
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
age. 1. Drain Valve 5. Collar
2. Lower Housing 6. Inlet Port/Check
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, 3. Clear Cover Valve
and chock the tires. 4. Vent Cap
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain Fig. 1, DAVCO Fuel/Water Separator (Fuel Pro 382
Shown)
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
The drain valve has a 1/2-inch (12.7-mm) pipe;
use a hose with a 1/2-inch pipe thread to fit cor-
VENT CAP
FOR REMOVAL OF TOP COLLAR ONLY
rectly.
3. Remove the vent cap (Fig. 1, Item 4) and open
the drain valve (Fig. 1, Item 1) to drain the fuel
completely, then close the drain valve.
4. Using a DAVCO Collar Wrench (Fig. 2), remove
the clear cover and collar.
NOTE: Broken vent cap and collar warranty
claims will not be accepted if any tool other than 02/16/2009 f470277
a DAVCO Collar Wrench is used for removal.
Fig. 2, DAVCO Collar Wrench
During installation, the vent cap and collar are
to be hand-tightened only, not tightened with a 7. On Fuel Pro 382 units, install the grommet on
wrench. Use part number 482017 on Fuel Pro the bottom of the new filter.
482 units; part number 380134 on Fuel Pro 382 8. Install the new filter and grommet assembly and
units. cover O-ring on the housing.
5. Remove the filter, cover O-ring, and vent cap 9. Install the clear cover and the collar. Hand-
O-ring. Dispose of them in an environmentally tighten the collar.
acceptable manner.
10. Prime the system
6. Clean all threads and sealing surfaces very thor-
oughly. Even a small amount of dirt will prevent 10.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
the fuel/water separator from sealing, and an air 10.2 Fill the housing to the top with clean die-
leak may result. sel fuel.
10.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap NOTE: Broken vent cap and collar warranty
O-ring and vent cap. claims will not be accepted if any tool other than
10.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil a DAVCO Collar Wrench, part number 380134,
reaches its normal operating pressure, is used for removal. During installation, the vent
increase engine speed to high idle for one cap and collar are to be hand-tightened only,
to two minutes to purge air from the sys- not tightened with a wrench.
tem.
5. Remove the filter and dispose of it in an environ-
10.5 While the engine is running, and after the mentally acceptable manner.
air is purged from the system, loosen the 6. Clean all threads and sealing surfaces very thor-
vent cap until the fuel level falls to just oughly. Even a small amount of dirt will prevent
above the collar, then hand-tighten the the fuel/water separator from sealing, and an air
vent cap. leak may result.
10.6 Check for leaks and shut down the en- 7. Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
gine.
8. Remove the filter grommet from the filter stud, if
equipped.
Emergency Temporary Filter
9. Fill the housing to the top with clean diesel fuel.
Replacement, Fuel Pro 382 10. Install a standard engine spin-on filter (part num-
ber FF105 or equivalent) on the filter stud.
WARNING 11. Install the cover O-ring, clear cover, and the col-
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator lar. Hand-tighten the collar.
to heat the fuel may be diesel fuel returned from 12. Fill the housing to the top with clean diesel fuel.
the engine, or engine coolant. Drain the fuel/
water separator only when the engine and fluids 13. Install and hand-tighten the vent cap O-ring and
have cooled. Draining it when the engine is hot vent cap.
could cause severe personal injury due to scald- 14. Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
ing. reaches its normal operating pressure, increase
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere, engine speed to high idle for one to two minutes
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni- to purge air from the system.
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work 15. Check for leaks and shut down the engine.
with the fuel system near, open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
age.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
The drain valve has a 1/2-inch (12.7-mm) pipe;
use a hose with a 1/2-inch pipe thread to fit cor-
rectly.
3. Remove the vent cap (Fig. 1, Item 4) and open
the drain valve (Fig. 1, Item 1) to drain the fuel
completely, then close the drain valve.
4. Using a DAVCO Collar Wrench (Fig. 2), remove
the clear cover and collar.
WARNING
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator 3
to heat the fuel may be diesel fuel returned from
the engine, or engine coolant. Drain the fuel/ 5
water separator only when the engine and fluids
have cooled. Draining it when the engine is hot
could cause severe personal injury due to scald- 2
ing.
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
6
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work
with the fuel system near, open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result- 1
05/05/2009 f470506b
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
age. 1. Drain Valve 5. Collar
2. Lower Housing 6. Inlet Port/Check
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, 3. Clear Cover Valve
and chock the tires. 4. Vent Cap
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain Fig. 1, DAVCO Fuel/Water Separator (Fuel Pro 382
Shown)
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
The drain valve has a 1/2-inch (12.7-mm) pipe;
use a hose with a 1/2-inch pipe thread to fit cor-
rectly.
3. Remove the vent cap (Fig. 1, Item 4) and open
the drain valve (Fig. 1, Item 1) to drain the fuel 1 2 3
completely. Close the drain valve. 4 5
12/18/2006 f470502
4. Place a shop towel under the fuel inlet fitting. 1. Plastic Spring 4. Seal (Diesel Pro®
Hold the check valve body in place with an open- Retainer units only)
end wrench and remove the fuel inlet hose from 2. Retaining Spring 5. Check Valve Body
the fitting. Continue holding the check valve body 3. Check Ball
in place and, using a flare-nut wrench, carefully
remove the fuel inlet fitting. Drain any residual Fig. 2, Check Valve Assembly
fuel into the container.
8. Clean the threads on the fuel inlet fitting and
5. Remove the check valve assembly from the fuel/ fuel/water separator housing. Apply a teflon pipe
water separator housing. thread sealant to the check valve body threads.
6. Remove and discard the check ball, spring, and 9. Install the check valve body in the fuel/water
plastic retainer. See Fig. 2. separator housing. Do not use tape to seal the
7. Carefully clean the threads on the check valve fuel fittings; it may eventually leak.
body. Install the new check ball, spring, and plas- Tighten the check valve body 44 to 60 lbf·ft (60
tic retainer on the check valve body. to 81 N·m) on a Fuel Pro 382, or 45 lbf·ft (61
The plastic retainer snaps into a groove in the N·m) on a Fuel Pro 482.
check valve body. 10. Install the fuel inlet fitting, and connect the fuel
inlet line.
11. Prime the system 3. Remove the vent cap (Fig. 1, Item 4) and open
the drain valve (Fig. 1, Item 1) to drain the fuel
11.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed. completely. Close the drain valve.
11.2 Remove the vent cap from the clear cover, 4. Using a DAVCO Collar Wrench (Fig. 3), remove
and fill the housing to the top with clean the clear cover and collar.
diesel fuel.
11.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap.
VENT CAP
FOR REMOVAL OF TOP COLLAR ONLY
Vapor Bubbles
Vapor bubbles are harmless and are present in all
diesel fuel systems. Vapor bubbles are often mis- 1 2 3 4
taken for air bubbles, but do not affect engine perfor-
mance.
Vapor bubbles (see Fig. 1) may be visible in a diag- 04/07/2009 f470511
nostic sight tube installed between the fuel/water
separator and the fuel pump. They consist of harm- 1. Fuel Pump
2. Engine
less fuel vapor and trapped air, may vary from 3. Fuel Outlet Line, Vapor Bubbles Visible
champagne-size to 1/4-inch (6-mm) diameter, and 4. Fuel/Water Separator, Vapor Bubbles Visible Inside
may increase in volume or size as the engine rpm Filter, No Bubbles Visible in Clear Cover
increases. The lower pressure inside a fuel/water 5. Fuel Return Line (no bubbles)
separator filter, caused by the suction of the fuel
pump pulling fuel through the fuel/water separator, Fig. 1, Harmless Vapor Bubbles
creates vapor bubbles. These vapor bubbles are nor-
mal and harmless to engine operation. In the fuel bubbles will be visible in a diagnostic sight tube in-
pump, the fuel is pressurized and the vapor bubbles stalled between the fuel pump and the fuel/water
dissolve. Vapor bubbles do not appear on the fuel separator, and in a diagnostic sight tube installed in
return side of the system. the fuel return hose.
There is no troubleshooting or repair procedure re- Exhaust gas bubbles may also be visible in the clear
quired for vapor bubbles. Vapor bubbles do not filter cover. They are the result of leaking fuel injector
cause performance issues and will not be present seals, which can allow combustion gases to enter the
downstream of the fuel pump. fuel system, pass through the fuel return line into the
fuel tank, and be drawn into the fuel/water separator.
Air and Gas Bubbles They may be visible in a diagnostic sight tube in-
stalled in the fuel return line. To test for combustion
Air or gas bubbles indicate harmful leaks, and can gas in the fuel, disconnect the return line at the tank,
cause hard starting and impaired engine perfor- submerge the end in a bucket of fuel, run the engine,
mance. All diesel fuel holds some trapped air, caused and watch for bubbles. As they pop, these bubbles
by the natural splashing that occurs in the fuel tank. may smell like exhaust fumes.
But excessive air bubbles, severe enough to degrade
In extreme cases, these combustion gas bubbles
engine performance, indicate an air leak on the suc-
cause enough aeration in the fuel tank to create vis-
tion side of the fuel system, from the fuel tank into
ible bubbles in the clear cover of the fuel/water sepa-
the fuel pump.
rator and impair engine performance. See the engine
Air bubbles visible in the clear cover of a DAVCO manufacturer’s documentation for diagnosis and re-
fuel/water separator may indicate an air leak in the pair of injector seal leakage.
fuel system upstream of the bubbles, or in the fuel/
Use the following procedures to determine which
water separator; see Fig. 2. If there are no bubbles
bubbles are present in the fuel system, and whether
visible in the clear cover but the engine runs rough,
repair is necessary.
there may be an air leak at or between the fuel/water
separator outlet port and the fuel pump inlet. These
the threads with liquid or paste sealer, and re- 9.2 Remove the vent cap from the cover, and
connect the fuel connections and tighten them fill the housing to the top with clean diesel
securely. fuel.
9.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap.
Air Pressure Testing
9.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, reaches its normal operating pressure,
and chock the tires. increase engine speed to high idle for one
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri- tem.
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many 9.5 While the engine is running, and after the
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water air is purged from the system, loosen the
separators onto the ground. vent cap until the fuel level falls to just
above the collar, then hand-tighten the
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa- vent cap.
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
Filter Element Restriction Check
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to
fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382. A properly assembled DAVCO fuel/water separator
does not restrict fuel flow until the fuel level has risen
3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve to the top of the filter. If the fuel level has risen to the
to drain the fuel to just below the collar level, top of the filter, replace the filter.
then close the drain valve.
4. Remove the fuel/water separator from the chas- Check Valve Operation Test,
sis. For instructions, see Subject 100. Fuel Pro Configurations
WARNING When air is introduced into the fuel system, (e.g.
when draining fluid or when replacing the fuel filter),
Wear goggles and skin protection when the check valve (Fig. 3) works to keep the fuel sys-
pressure-testing a fuel/water separator, and be tem primed from the fuel tank to the fuel/water
careful not to perform this test near a source of separator.
possible ignition, such as an open flame. Never
exceed the maximum pressure stipulated for the
test, and do not perform this test if the clear
cover appears to be damaged.
5. Plug the fuel outlet port. Do not remove the filter,
filter cover, collar, vent cap, drain valve, or check 1 2 3
valve. Do not remove the electric heating ele- 4 5
12/18/2006 f470502
ment (if equipped), and do not plug the fluid heat
ports (if equipped). 1. Plastic Spring 3. Check Ball
Retainer 4. Seal
6. Apply 15 psi (207 kPa) air pressure at the fuel 2. Retaining Spring 5. Check Valve Body
inlet. Immerse the unit in a tank of water and
look for air bubbles. Fig. 3, Check Valve Assembly, Fuel Pro Configurations
7. If no bubbles appear, the air leak is not in the To test for proper check valve operation, remove the
fuel/water separator. fuel inlet line, then open the vent cap. Fuel should
8. Install the fuel/water separator onto the chassis not flow out of the check valve, although a slight
frame rail. For instructions, see Subject 100. seepage of fuel is normal. If fuel drains back out of
the check valve, complete the following procedure.
9. Prime the system
9.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, 7. If the valve body and ball seat are not damaged,
and chock the tires. clean the threads on the check valve body, fuel
inlet fitting, and the lower housing.
WARNING 8. Apply a soft-set pipe thread sealant to the check
valve body threads. Install the check valve body
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator in the fuel/water separator housing. Do not use
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or tape to seal the fuel fittings; it will eventually
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator leak.
only when the engine and fluids have cooled.
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause Tighten the check valve body 44 to 60 lbf·ft (60
severe personal injury due to scalding. to 81 N·m) on a Fuel Pro fuel/water separator, or
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere, 25 to 40 lbf·ft (34 to 54 N·m) on a Diesel Pro
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni- fuel/water separator
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work 9. Prime the system
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result- 9.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
ing in serious personal injury or property dam- 9.2 Remove the vent cap from the clear cover,
age. and fill the housing to the top with clean
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ diesel fuel.
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri- 9.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many O-ring and vent cap.
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water 9.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
separators onto the ground. reaches its normal operating pressure,
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa- increase engine speed to high idle for one
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle. tem.
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to 9.5 While the engine is running, and after the
fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382. air is purged from the system, loosen the
vent cap until the fuel level falls to just
3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve above the collar, then hand-tighten the
to drain the fuel to just below the collar level, vent cap.
then close the drain valve.
9.6 Check for leaks and shut down the en-
4. Place a shop towel under the fuel inlet fitting. gine.
Hold the check valve body in place with an open-
end wrench and, using a flare-nut wrench, care-
fully remove the fuel inlet fitting. Drain any re- Other Conditions Visible Inside
sidual fuel into the container. the Cover
5. Remove the check valve assembly from the fuel/
water separator housing, see Fig. 3. The clear filter covers fitted to DAVCO fuel/water
6. Clean and inspect the check valve body. If the separators provide the opportunity to monitor several
valve body is damaged, or if the ball seat is not aspects of fuel condition and engine status, as de-
smooth, replace the valve. For instructions, see scribed in Table 1.
Subject 110.
12 VDC Thermoswitch
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
03/17/2009 f470526
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ 9.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri- 9.2 Remove the vent cap from the clear cover,
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many and fill the housing to the top with clean
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water diesel fuel.
separators onto the ground. 9.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap.
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
9.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain
reaches its normal operating pressure,
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
increase engine speed to high idle for one
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382. tem.
3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve 9.5 While the engine is running, and after the
to drain the fuel to just below the collar level, air is purged from the system, loosen the
then close the drain valve. vent cap until the fuel level falls to just
above the collar, then hand-tighten the
4. Disconnect the thermoswitch wiring harness, see
vent cap.
Fig. 4. Remove the thermoswitch from the fuel/
water separator. 9.6 Check for leaks and shut down the en-
gine.
Combination Heater
Thermoswitch
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake,
and chock the tires.
WARNING
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator
only when the engine and fluids have cooled.
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause
severe personal injury due to scalding.
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
age. 03/17/2009 f470527
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/ Fig. 5, Combination Heater Thermoswitch
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri-
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many 7. Raise the heater/thermoswitch unit temperature
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water to above 70°F (21°C). The heater/thermoswitch
separators onto the ground. unit should show an open circuit.
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa- 8. Install the heater/thermoswitch in the fuel/water
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain separator. Connect the heater/thermoswitch wir-
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle. ing harness.
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to 9. Prime the system
fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382. 9.1 Ensure that the drain valve is closed.
3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve 9.2 Remove the vent cap from the clear cover,
to drain the fuel to just below the collar level, and fill the housing to the top with clean
then close the drain valve. diesel fuel.
4. Disconnect the heater/thermoswitch unit from the 9.3 Install and hand-tighten the vent cap.
wiring harness, see Fig. 5.
9.4 Start the engine. When the lubricating oil
5. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the heater/ reaches its normal operating pressure,
thermoswitch pins. increase engine speed to high idle for one
6. Lower the heater/thermoswitch unit temperature to two minutes to purge air from the sys-
to below 40°F (4.4°C). tem.
The resistance shown on the ohmmeter should 9.5 While the engine is running, and after the
be: air is purged from the system, loosen the
vent cap until the fuel level falls to just
• 0.8 to 1.1 ohms for a 12 VDC 150 W unit above the collar, then hand-tighten the
• 0.2 to 2.5 ohms for a 24 VDC 250 W unit vent cap.
9.6 Check for leaks and shut down the en-
gine.
Fluid Heat Exchanger While looking into the fluid port of the bottom
plate (Fig. 7), flow cold water over the thermov-
1. Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, alve for 30 seconds, then run hot water over the
and chock the tires. thermovalve to determine whether the thermov-
alve spool is opening and closing.
WARNING
A
Fluid circulated through the fuel/water separator
may be diesel fuel returned from the engine, or
engine coolant. Drain the fuel/water separator
only when the engine and fluids have cooled.
Draining it when the engine is hot could cause
1
severe personal injury due to scalding.
If returning fuel is released into the atmosphere,
its vapors can ignite in the presence of any igni-
tion source. Do not expose the fuel to, or work
with, the fuel system near open flame or intense
heat. To do so could cause fire, possibly result-
ing in serious personal injury or property dam-
age. 2
IMPORTANT: When draining fluid from a fuel/
water separator, drain the fluid into an appropri- B
ate container, and dispose of it properly. Many
states now issue fines for draining fuel/water
separators onto the ground.
2. Put a clean receptacle under the fuel/water sepa-
rator and attach a piece of hose to the drain 1
valve, to direct fuel into the receptacle.
NOTE: Use a hose with a ½-inch pipe thread to
fit the drain valve on a Fuel Pro 382.
3. Remove the vent cap and open the drain valve
to drain the fuel to just below the collar level,
then close the drain valve.
2
4. Disconnect the heating fluid lines from the bot-
tom plate. These will be either engine coolant 04/08/2009 f470529
lines or return fuel lines. Plug engine coolant A. Fuel is Cold, Thermovalve Is Up
lines after removing them from the bottom plate B. Fuel is Warm, Thermovalve is Down
of the housing.
1. Heater Loop 2. Thermovalve
5. Remove the bottom plate and lower housing
O-ring. Fig. 6, Heat Exchanger Fluid Flow
6. When the fuel entering the fuel/water separator 7. Replace the lower housing O-ring, and install the
is cold, the thermovalve moves up, allowing bottom plate on the fuel/water separator. Install
warming fluid to enter the heater loop in the heat the screws on the bottom plate and tighten them
exchanger. When the fuel is warm, the thermov- 8 to 10 lbf·ft (11 to 14 N·m).
alve moves down, causing the warming fluid to
bypass the heater loop and return directly to the 8. Connect the heating fluid lines.
tank. See Fig. 6. 9. Prime the system
09/24/2013
3 f470607
1. Connector 2. Probes 3. Connector Contacts
09/24/2013
3 f470608
1. Connector 2. Probes 3. Connector Contacts
Torque Values
Fuel Pro 382 Fuel Pro 482
Component lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·in (N·cm) lbf·ft (N·m) lbf·in (N·cm)
Inlet Port/Check Valve 44–60 (60–81 ) — 45 (61) —
Water in Fuel Sensor — 20–24 (226–271) — 20–24 (226–271)
Electric Heating Element 15–30 (20–41) — 15–30 (20–41) —
Drain Valve 25 (34) — 25 (34) —
Housing Assembly Screws 8–10 (11–14) — — —
Bypass Valve Assembly — — 20 (27) —
Table 1, Torque Values
General Information and the cab, and between the muffler and the frame
rail bracket.
The exhaust system routes hot exhaust gas away Most exhaust installations consist of an engine ex-
from the cab, and reduces engine exhaust noise. Ve- haust pipe, sometimes called the turbo pipe,
hicles can have either a horizontally mounted or a mounted to the rear of the turbocharger and secured
vertically mounted exhaust system. Vehicles are with a V-clamp. From there, flex pipe and exhaust
available either with or without a vertical exhaust piping route the exhaust to the muffler. A bracket at-
stack. tached to the frame rail or the cab mounting uses a
clamp to hold and support the engine exhaust piping
System components include the engine outlet ex-
as it runs to the muffler. Band clamps connect all pip-
haust pipe, muffler, muffler mounting components,
ing joints between the turbocharger and the muffler,
saddle clamps, wide-band exhaust clamps, flex pipe,
and hold the exhaust piping to the muffler.
exhaust stack, and exhaust system heat shields.
The exhaust piping can be mounted to the frame rail
A vehicle can have single or dual mufflers.
(see Fig. 6, Fig. 7, or Fig. 8).
The muffler can be mounted horizontally (see Fig. 1)
where it is supported by brackets which are bolted to
inside of the frame rails.
5
08/01/95 f490093a
2 3
2
4
3
6
6
8 6
9 6
06/05/95 f490091
1. Muffler 6. Capscrew, 5/8–11x1.25, grade 8; Nut; Washer
2. Saddle Clamp, 5-Inch 7. Muffler Mounting Brace
3. Upper Muffler Mounting Bracket 8. Lower Muffler Mounting Bracket
4. Capscrew, 3/8–16x1.25, grade 8; Nut; Washer 9. Capscrew, 5/8–11x1.75, grade 8; Nut; Washer
5. Muffler Mounting Upright
5
4
7
6
1
2
7
4
2
6
01/10/2000 f490167
1. Top Stack
2. Accuseal® Clamp, 5-Inch
3. Muffler Band
4. Muffler
5. Exhaust Pipe from Engine
6. Muffler Mounting Upright
7. Muffler Mounting Brace
2 2 3
1 7
9 9
06/06/95 f490092
3
4 5
6
8
9
10
08/01/95 f490094
A B
1 2 3 4 5
12/03/99 f490224
A B
6 A
1 2 3 4 5
A
6 B
5 5 6
6
B−B A−A
08/01/95 f490102
A. Muffler Location Day Cab B. Muffler Location with Sleeper Cab
1. V-Clamp, 5-Inch 4. Flexpipe, 5-Inch 7. Capscrew, 5/8–11x1.75, grade 5;
2. Engine Turbo Pipe 5. U-Bolt Tube Clamp, 5-Inch Nut; Washers
3. Wide-Band Clamp, 5-Inch 6. Exhaust Piping Bracket
A B
8
7
4
1 2 3 4 5 6
12/03/99 f490225
A. Muffler Location Day Cab B. Muffler Location with Sleeper Cab
1. V-Clamp, 5-Inch 4. Flexpipe, 5-Inch 6. Exhaust Pipe, 5-inch, 40° Bend
2. Engine Turbo Pipe 5. Tube Support Bracket and 7. Muffler Mounting Pipe
3. Wide-Band Clamp, 5-Inch Clamp, 5-Inch 8. Muffler
A B
1 2 3 4 5
12/03/99 f490224
A B
6 A
1 2 3 4 5
A
6 B
5 5 6
6
B−B A−A
08/01/95 f490102
A. Muffler Location Day Cab B. Muffler Location with SleeperCab
1. V-Clamp, 5-Inch 4. Flexpipe, 5-Inch 7. Capscrew, 5/8–11 x 1.75, grade
2. Engine Turbo Pipe 5. U-Bolt Tube Clamp, 5-Inch 5; Nut; Washers
3. Wide-Band Clamp, 5-Inch 6. Exhaust Piping Bracket
A B
8
7
4
1 2 3 4 5 6
12/03/99 f490225
A. Muffler Location Day Cab B. Muffler Location with Sleeper Cab
1. V-Clamp, 5-Inch 4. Flexpipe, 5-Inch 6. Exhaust Pipe, 5-inch, 40° Bend
2. Engine Turbo Pipe 5. Tube Support Bracket and 7. Muffler Mounting Pipe
3. Wide-Band Clamp, 5-Inch Clamp, 5-Inch 8. Muffler
1 2 2
03/19/99 f490212
1. Flexpipe
2. Flow-Direction Indicator
Removal
1. Park the vehicle, shut down the engine, apply
the parking brakes, and chock the tires.
2. Note the position of the heat shield and heat
shield mounting bands.
3. Remove the bolts that hold the ends of the shield
mounting bands together.
4. Remove the heat shield and mounting bands
from the muffler.
Installation
1. Position the heat shield and heat shield mounting
bands on the muffler.
2. Use the bolts and nuts to connect the ends of
the bands, and tighten the bolts until the mount-
ing bands are tight around the muffler.
3. Remove the chocks from the tires.
3
2
04/14/99 f490214
1. Exhaust Tubing
2. Exhaust Clamp
3. Flex Tubing
Removal (See Fig. 1) 4. Remove the nut, flatwasher, and isolator located
underneath the muffler elbow. Remove the muf-
1. Park the vehicle, shut down the engine, apply fler elbow.
the parking brakes, and chock the tires.
2 16
13 13
14
15 15
13 13
3
4 5
12
6
8 11
12
9
10
12
01/10/2000 f490155
8. Position the band clamp around the muffler and A. Measurement from muffler to top mounting on
muffler elbow, and tighten the band clamp 50 bracket: 13 to 13-1/2 inches (330 to 343 mm).
lbf·ft (68 N·m). 1. Muffler
2. Muffler Pipe Elbow
9. Install the shackle brackets on the upper muffler 3. Lower Muffler Mounting Bracket
mounting bracket. One end of each shackle
bracket is keyed. Position the keyed end of the Fig. 2, Muffler-to-Bracket Measurement
shackle bracket on the stud closest to the cab.
See Fig. 1.
CAUTION
Be sure that the keyed end of the shackle bracket
is aligned with the mating shoulder. If the keyed
shackle bracket is not aligned with the mating
shoulder, damage to the shoulder may occur.
10. Position the top of the muffler in the upper muf-
fler mounting bracket.
11. Install the bolt and nuts on the upper muffler
mounting bracket, and tighten the large nuts 64
lbf·ft (87 N·m). Tighten the small nut 24 lbf·ft (33
N·m).
12. Tighten the wide-band clamp. For instructions,
refer to Subject 120.
13. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Removal
1. Park the vehicle, shut down the engine, apply
the parking brakes, and chock the tires.
2. If working with a cab and frame rail-mounted
muffler, loosen the five nuts that clamp the cab-
mounted muffler bracket around the top of the
muffler and the stack.
If working with any other vertical muffler, loosen
the saddle clamps at the top of the muffler.
3. Lift the stack out of the muffler.
Installation
1. Insert the stack into the top of the muffler.
2. Secure the stack to the muffler.
If working with a cab and frame rail-mounted
muffler, tighten the four large nuts in the cab-
mounted muffler bracket 74 lbf·ft (100 N·m) and
the small nut 24 lbf·ft (33 N·m).
If working with any other vertical muffler, tighten
the saddle clamps at the top of the muffler 24
lbf·ft (33 N·m).
3. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Cab and Frame-Rail Mounted 4. Remove the five nuts, one bolt, and two shackle
brackets on the upper muffler mounting bracket
Muffler (See Fig. 1) as shown in Fig. 2.
5. Lift the muffler from the muffler pipe elbow, and
REMOVAL
3
4 5
6
8
9
10
08/01/95 f490094
1
A A
B
C C
A A
2
2
A
1
01/10/2000 f490153
A. Remove these nuts. C. Remove these
B. Remove this bolt. shackle brackets.
1. Upper Muffler Mounting Bracket (shackle
assembly) 3
2. Muffler
muffler to the mounting point on the top of the A. Measurement from muffler to top mounting on
chassis-mounted lower bracket should be 13 to bracket: 13 to 13-1/2 inches (330 to 343 mm).
13-1/2 inches (330 to 343 mm). See Fig. 3. 1. Muffler
2. Muffler Pipe Elbow
If the installation is correct, the upper shackle 3. Lower Muffler Mounting Bracket
assembly arms should be horizontal within ±5
degrees. Fig. 3, Muffler-to-Bracket Measurement
2. Position the clamp around the muffler and muffler 6. Install the top stack. For instructions, refer to
pipe elbow, and tighten the clamp 50 lbf·ft (68 Subject 140.
N·m).
7. Remove the chocks from the tires.
3. Position the top of the muffler in the upper muf-
fler mounting bracket. Frame-Rail Mounted Muffler
4. Install the shackle brackets on the upper muffler (See Fig. 4)
mounting bracket. One end of each shackle
bracket is keyed. Position the keyed end of the
shackle bracket on the stud closest to the cab. REMOVAL
1. Park the vehicle, shut down the engine, apply
CAUTION the parking brakes, and chock the tires.
Be sure that the keyed end of the shackle bracket 2. Remove the top stack. For instructions, refer to
is aligned with the mating shoulder. If the keyed Subject 140.
shackle bracket is not aligned with the mating 3. Remove the heat shield from the muffler. See
shoulder, damage to the shoulder may occur. Subject 110 for instructions.
5. Install the bolt and nuts, and tighten the large 4. Loosen the clamp at the bottom of the muffler.
nuts 64 lbf·ft (87 N·m). Tighten the small nut 24
lbf·ft (33 N·m). 5. Loosen the two muffler bands that hold the muf-
fler to the muffler mounting upright.
1
2
7
4
2
6
01/10/2000 f490167
1. Top Stack
2. Accuseal® Clamp, 5-Inch
3. Muffler Band
4. Muffler
5. Muffler Clamp
6. Exhaust Pipe from Engine
7. Muffler Mounting Upright
8. Muffler Mounting Brace
INSTALLATION
1. Put the muffler in place against the mounting up-
right.
2. Install the muffler bands onto the muffler and the
muffler mounting brackets. Tighten the bands 22
lbf·ft (30 N·m).
3. Install the heat shield. See Subject 110 for in-
structions
8
7 9
4 5 6 7
2 3
10
11
12 4
10/16/2006 1 f490282
1. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) 4. ATD Mounting Band 9. DPF Outlet Temperature Sensor
Ceramic Honeycomb Substrate 5. DPF Intake Pressure Sensor (connection to sensor housing
Openings 6. DOC Outlet Temperature Sensor not shown)
2. Marmon Fitting at Inlet from (connection to sensor housing 10. Exhaust Outlet Marmon Fitting
Turbocharger not shown) 11. DPF Outlet Pressure Sensor
3. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) 7. DPF V-Band Mounting Clamps 12. DPF Substrate Tubes
Intake Temperature Sensor 8. Sensor Housing
EPA07 emissions regulations limit NOx to just over 1 ally builds up, and the DPF must be removed and
gram per brake horsepower hour (g/bhp-hr) and par- physically cleaned.
ticulate matter cannot exceed 0.01 g/bhp-hr. EPA07
engines require ultralow sulphur diesel (ULSD) fuel, IMPORTANT: To minimize soot buildup on the
for low emissions and long life of the diesel particu- DPF, low-ash oil is necessary for maximum ser-
late filter (DPF), a honeycomb soot filter inside the vice between physical cleanings. Only low-ash
ATD. oil should be used in EPA07 engines.
Engine manufacturers use different methods and NOTE: Freightliner documentation deals only
equipment to reduce emissions from their engines, with removal and installation of the components
but an ATD is used on all of them. The ATD is al- of the ATS. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s
service literature for all testing, disassembly, procedures is followed, and the driver pushes
cleaning, and repair of the ATD and other com- the regeneration button on the dashboard. The
ponents. parked regeneration sequence varies accord-
ing to engine and vehicle configuration, but it
IMPORTANT: The ATS is part of an integrated must be exactly followed or regeneration can-
engine and emissions management system, not happen. Follow the exact sequence pre-
controlled by the ECM. Follow the engine manu- scribed for the vehicle, according to the engine
facturer’s procedures, and use the correct manufacturer’s literature.
equipment when diagnosing or working on any
part of the ATS.
Regeneration
There are two types of regeneration; passive and
active.
Passive regeneration happens whenever the ATD
internal temperature is 572°F (300°C) or higher. This
happens during normal loaded vehicle operation, and
exhaust gas temperature is no higher than normal.
Under load and at highway speeds, passive regen-
eration may be all that is necessary to keep the DPF
clear. But running light loads, or at low speeds, does
not generate enough heat in the ATD for passive re-
generation, and soot builds up in the DPF.
As soot builds up in the DPF, it creates back pres-
sure and decreases engine efficiency. So at intervals
determined by the ECM, which keeps track of mea-
surements such as engine hours, fuel consumed,
and mileage, the ATS raises the temperature inside
the ATD to burn the built-up soot to ash. This re-
duces the back pressure and allows the DPF to con-
tinue operating efficiently for tens of thousands of
miles.
During active regeneration, engine rpm rise to fast-
idle speed and extra fuel is injected into the ATD to
raise its interior temperature very high, over 1112°F
(600°C), and turn the trapped soot to harmless ash.
There are two types of active regeneration; at-speed
and parked.
• When conditions permit, the ECM automatically
initiates at-speed regeneration. The exact con-
ditions for regeneration vary, according to the
engine manufacturer’s design. Generally, it can
happen only when the vehicle speed is above
7.5 mph, and active regeneration stops when
the vehicle slows to 5 mph or below.
• Parked regeneration is initiated by a driver or
technician when the vehicle is safely parked
with the exhaust outlet well away from any
flammable substance, a specific sequence of
8
7 9
4 5 6 7
2 3
10
11
12 4
10/16/2006 1 f490282
1. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) Front End Honeycomb 7. DPF V-Band Mounting Clamp
2. Marmon Fitting at Inlet from Turbocharger 8. Sensor Housing
3. Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) Intake Temperature 9. DPF Outlet Temperature Sensor (connection to
Sensor sensor housing not shown)
4. ATD Mounting Band 10. Exhaust Outlet Marmon Fitting
5. DPF Intake Pressure Sensor 11. DPF Outlet Pressure Sensor
6. DOC Outlet Temperature Sensor (connection to 12. DPF Ceramic Substrate
sensor housing not shown)
NOTE: ATD component service procedures, 5. Connect the harness to the sensor housing and
such as cleaning the DPF or servicing the sen- the front temperature sensor.
sors, are documented in the engine manufactur- 6. Remove the ATD handling device.
ers’ service literature.
7. If a support was fastened around the exhaust
pipe, remove it.
Installation 8. Operate the vehicle and check for leaks.
1. Use the ATD handling device to move the ATD
into position, so the inlet and exhaust align with
the inlet and exhaust piping. Be sure the ATD
positioning pin engages its hole in the ATD
mounting bracket, or that the positioning marks
align.
2. Install the ATD mounting bands, but do not
tighten them yet.
3. Position the V-band clamps on the Marmon fit-
tings and tighten them to the value shown in
Table 1.
4. Tighten the ATD mounting bands to the value
shown in Table 1.
A B
05/08/2007 f490285
A. Typical Horizontal ATD Layout B. Typical Vertical ATD Layout
1. Vertical ATD Lifting Ears
2
4
1 2
4
3 5
06/05/2007 f490274b
1. ATD Mounting 3. ATD Inlet End
Bracket 4. ATD Positioning Pin
2. Chassis Frame Rail 6
2
A
6
1
3
4 5
3
02/18/2008 f490313
10. Carefully remove the bellows ends and clamps • Rotate the ATD inlet pipe at the Marmon
from the exhaust pipes, either by prying them off, flange on the ATD.
or by driving them off with a soft drift. Be careful 15. With the two pipe ends in horizontal and vertical
not to damage the exhaust pipes. alignment and the bellows not installed, measure
IMPORTANT: Take the following measurements the distance between them. See Fig. 5.
before installing the bellows. The distance between the pipe ends is to be at
The main section of the ATD inlet pipe is a least 14 inches (35.5 cm), but not more than 14-
larger diameter than the turbo outlet pipe. Make 3/8 inches (36.5 cm).
sure you measure at the end of the pipe, where If the distance is less than the above, remove
it inserts into the bellows. The two measure- the turbo outlet pipe and the ATD inlet pipe, and
ments should be identical. If they are not, cut off an equal amount from each pipe end, as
loosen the U-clamp nuts that hold the ATD inlet needed; otherwise, go to the next step. Make
pipe to the frame-rail support bracket, and move sure you remove all burrs from the cut ends of
the pipe up or down as needed. the pipes.
The ends of the ATD inlet pipe and the turbo outlet IMPORTANT: If they were loosened, do not
pipe must be in exact vertical and horizontal align- tighten the ATD mounting straps until the
ment before installing the new bellows. If they are U-clamp nuts on the frame-rail support bracket
not aligned the bellows will be twisted, and will fail are tightened to their final torque. To do other-
after a short time. wise will affect the alignment of the exhaust
11. Attach the turbo outlet pipe to the turbocharger, pipes.
then to the bellows support bracket. Tighten the 16. When the horizontal and vertical alignment is the
clamps enough to hold the pipe in place. same for both exhaust pipes and the distances
12. Attach the ATD inlet pipe to the ATD and the between the pipe ends is correct, tighten the
frame-rail support bracket. Tighten the clamps U-clamp nuts on the frame-rail support bracket
enough to hold the pipes in place. that holds the ATD inlet pipe in place. See Sub-
ject 100 for torque values.
13. Using a ruler or tape measure, measure the ver-
tical distance between the end of the ATD inlet 17. Tighten the V-clamp that holds the inlet pipe to
pipe and the frame rail. See Fig. 2. Do the same the ATD. See Subject 100 for torque values.
for the end of the turbo outlet pipe. The two 18. If applicable, tighten the mounting straps on the
measurements must be the same. If the mea- ATD, then remove the jack.
surements are different, loosen the U-clamp nuts
on the frame-rail support bracket, and raise or 19. Remove the turbo outlet pipe from the turbo-
lower the ATD inlet pipe as needed. Tighten the charger.
U-clamp nuts enough to hold the pipe in place. 20. Remove any dirt or soot from the outer surface
14. Using a ruler (or a T-square) and a tape mea- of the exhaust pipe ends to ease the installation
sure, measure the distance between each pipe of the new bellows.
end and the frame rail. See Fig. 3. If these two 21. Install the new bellows on the ATD inlet pipe,
measurements are different, do one or more of with the clamp nuts on top and facing outboard
the following adjustments (see Fig. 4): (Fig. 2).
• Check that the U-clamp on the bellows 22. Insert the end of the turbo outlet pipe into the
support bracket is installed correctly, and is bellows, then connect the pipe to the turbo-
not crooked. charger and to the new bellows support bracket.
• Rotate the turbo outlet pipe at the turbo- See Subject 100 for torque values.
charger. 23. Tighten the bellows seal clamps; see Sub-
• Support the ATD with a suitable jack, then ject 100 for torque values.
loosen the ATD straps and rotate the ATD. 24. Start the engine and check for leaks. Shut down
the engine, and tighten any clamps as needed.
1 A
2
C 2
C
B B
02/28/2008 f490317
A. Up-and-down adjustment to be done at this bracket.
B. Vertical measurements to be the same.
C. Horizontal (in-and-out) measurements to be the same.
1. ATD Inlet Pipe
2. Turbo Outlet Pipe (support bracket not shown)
Fig. 2, Rotation and Adjustment Areas for Exhaust Pipe alignment (vertical ATD installation shown)
1
1
2
A
A
1
2
02/13/2008 f490316
A. This distance must be the same at both exhaust-
pipe ends.
1. ATD Inlet Pipe 2. Turbo Outlet Pipe
General Information
The on-highway environment places severe demands
on a vehicles electrical system. The following mate-
rial describes the methods for repairing and sealing
electrical connections that will provide the durability
necessary for the automotive environment.
There are four distinct components for making a wire
repair that will withstand:
• the mechanical demands of vibration, strain,
and thermal cycling
• the electrical requirement of oxidation free con-
ductivity
• the insulating properties to resist shorting to
adjacent objects
• the ability to seal for corrosion protection
When troubleshooting electrical systems, consider
body height and suspension travel. Interference and
strain may be caused by normal frame flexing and
body accessories that are not apparent when a ve-
hicle is stationary.
Procedure
1. Dress the wires to be spliced by stripping the
insulation to expose 1/4 inch of copper. Slide a
3-inch section of adhesive coated shrink tubing
onto one of the wires.
2. Crimp the splice connector onto the wires. Use
the type of crimp tool that makes a dimple in the 08/03/2010 f545671
connector. The dimple must be at least 3/16 inch
A. Minimum 3/16 inch width.
wide or there will be too much space inside the
connector and the solder will not flow into the
Fig. 1, Dimple-Type Crimp Tool
wire. This crimp provides the mechanical reten-
tion needed. See Fig. 2.
3. Pull test the wires by hand to ensure the crimp is
mechanically solid.
4. A crimp tool that is too narrow will leave exces-
sive air gaps in the crimp. The connection will
not have the required amount of mechanical
strength and the solder will not bond the wire to
the connector. Figure 3 shows an example of a
bad crimp when the wrong tool is used. 08/03/2010 f545673
5. Heat the properly crimped splice connector with
Fig. 2, Properly Crimped Splice
the heat gun while slowly rotating the wire. The
solder will take longer to flow than it will for the 6. When the connector has cooled, center the
shrinkable insulation to contract. Heat until the shrinkable tubing over the splice and heat the
solder band has completely melted into the con- tubing until it has completely sealed the splice
nector. If the shrinkable insulation ruptures and a and a small fillet of adhesive is visible at the
small amount of solder bubbles out, gently shake ends of the shrink tube. See Fig. 4.
the splice to remove the solder. See Fig. 4.
1 1
08/03/2010 f545674
A. The solder band is completely melted.
B. Insulation rupture; gently shake off the solder bead.
1. Adhesive Fillet
08/03/2010 f545668
NOTE: Even with two crimps, there is too much air gap;
the solder will not bond. 07/30/2010 f545676
Fig. 3, Wrong Tool Being Used and a Crimp That Will A. The fillet of adhesive at the ends of the shrink tube
Fail indicate a complete seal.
Parts and Tools 2. Slide a shrinkable solder sleeve from the kit onto
one of the wires.
Parts are available through the Parts Distribution 3. Place the wires that will be spliced into each end
Centers (PDCs) in kits with material for 50 splices. of the barrel connector. See Fig. 2 for an ex-
This kit may be used on 16 to 14 gauge (1 to 2 mm) ample of the splice.
wire. 4. Crimp each end of the barrel using a dimple-type
Tools needed for wiring repair using solderless con- crimp tool to secure the wires. See Fig. 1 for an
nectors include the following. example of a proper crimp tool.
• A dimple-type crimp tool with a minimum 3/16 5. Pull test the wires by hand to ensure the crimp is
inch width. See Fig. 1 for an example of a mechanically solid.
proper crimp tool. A typical manufacturer for 6. Slide the shrinkable solder sleeve onto the barrel
this tool is Thomas & Betts. connector so the solder band is at the center of
• A heat gun rated at 250°F (121°C). the barrel connector.
7. Heat the splice using a heat gun rated at 250°F
(121°C) until the sleeve has completely shrunk
against the wire and the solder flows into the
barrel connector. A small fillet of adhesive may
be visible at the ends of the connector. See
Fig. 3.
8. Slide the shrinkable tubing over the splice and
apply heat with a heat gun rated at 250°F
(121°C) until it has completely shrunk against the
A
wire insulation. A small fillet of adhesive should
be visible at the ends of the shrinkable tubing.
08/03/2010 f545671
A. Minimum 3/16 inch width.
Procedure
1. Dress the wires to be spliced by stripping the
insulation to expose 1/4 inch of copper. Slide a
piece of the shrink tubing from the kit onto one of
the wires.
A
2
1
11/04/94 f540392a
A. 1/4 inch (6.4 mm)
1. Wire End 3. Solder Sleeve 4. Shrink Tube
2. Barrel Connector
07/30/2010 f545672
1. Adhesive Fillet
Parts
Twisted-pair datalink wires may be spliced using a
mating connector set. See Table 1 for a typical set of
datalink connector parts.
08/03/2010 f545669
1. Terminals
2. Terminal Lock
3. Connector 07/30/2010 f545670
4. Twisted-Pair Datalink Wires
5. Damaged Section of Datalink Wires Fig. 2, Datalink Connectors
General Specifications See Table 2 for standard wiring circuit numbers and
descriptions.
See Table 1 for standard wiring color-coding.
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
1 Battery Cable, Ground 156 286 291
6 Battery Cable, Positive 224 281 291 292 293 295
14 Cab Power, Main 156 224 277 281 285 286 291 292 293 295 306 320 321
15 Starter, Crank Circuit 146 155 156 157 158 286 291 320 895
16 Alternator, Main Power 124 125 286 320 836 846
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
18 Air Pressure Warning 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
19 Voltmeter 286 320 836 846
20 Headlamp, Left 27D 288 304 312 320 659
21 Headlamp, Right 27D 288 304 312 320 659
22 Headlamp, Low and High Beam 27D 288 304 312 320 659
23 Tail Lamps 288 294 296 301 302 304 30A 320 335
24 Horn, Electric 288 320 321 726
25 Horn, Air 288 320 321 726
27 Road Lamp 288 313 314 320
28 Fog Lamp 288 313 314 320
29 Instrument Panel Lamps 27D 288 296 302 304 30A 312 320 335 659 732 811 81B
Transmission Temperature and
30 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 863 864
Filter
Transmission Aux Controls and
31 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 863 864
Temp
34 Engine Oil Pressure 165 286 320 852
35 Engine Oil Temperature 286 320 854
36 Stop Lamps 288 294 296 301 320 335 486 838 840 877 880 882
38 Turn Signal 288 294 296 298 299 300 301 320 335 811
39 Stop/Turn Combination Lamp 288 294 296 301 320 335 880
40 Fan, Windshield/Sleeper 287 320 716 718
271 287 294 300 302 305 311 312 314 316 318 319 31A 31B 31C 31D
41 Dome/Interior Lamp
31E 320 322 324 325 327 328 32B 32C 469 470
42 Axle Oil Temperature, Forward 288 320 865 866
43 Axle Oil Temperature, Rear 288 320 865 866
44 Axle Oil Temperature, Center 288 320 865 866
45 Receptacle, Trailer 173 285 296 297 303 306 307 308 309 310 320 321 331 334 335
46 Marker Lamps 288 296 302 304 30A 320 335
47 Fuel Level 288 320 844 847
Fuel Control and Level, Natural
48 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 288 320 811 814 844 847 860
Gas
52 Ignition Switch 156 285 306 320 321
55 Data Recorder 283 286 320 343 810 817
57 12V Power Outlet/Lighter 284 287 320 785
58 Heater, Auxiliary 130 287 320 700 703 70A 70C 723
73 Utility Lamps 287 288 318 31J 320 327 329 57W
74 Starter Mag Switch, Solenoid 155 156 157 158 286 320 895
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
75 Starter Mag Switch, Ground 146 155 156 157 158 286 895
76 Mirror Heat 320 656 744 74E
78 Spot Lamp 316 320 57V
81 Ignition Switch Control Devices 156 285 304 306 320 811 814 860
82 Starter Mag Switch Power 155 156 157 158 286 320 895
86 Axle Lock Solenoid 288 320 452 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
87 Axle Lock 288 320 452 865 866 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
88 Lubrication System, Automatic 288 594
90 Sander, Road 288 320 329
130 132 138 140 141 154 166 286 287 288 320 467 700 703 70A 70C
91 Heater, Diesel Fired Auxiliary
723
94 Air Dryer, Heated 288 480 48A 880
95 Speaker, Radio 287 320 746 74D 750 751 753 75B 75C 79F 79G
97 Air Conditioner 130 287 320 700 703 70A 70B 723
98 Heater – A/C Motor, Blower 130 156 283 285 286 287 320 321 700 703 70A 70B 70C 723
99 Fuel Solenoid, Engine Run 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 320
102 Parking Lamps 288 296 302 304 30A 320 335
Door Activated Lamps Courtesy/
108 320 324 325 32B 675 676 677 67E 67F 811 814 860
Footwell/Door
113 Baggage Compartment Lamps 287 320 322 324 325 32C
117 Speed Sensor + 283 286 320 343 810 817
118 Speed Sensor – 283 286 320 343 810 817
198 199 286 320 732 810 812 830 836 838 83A 840 841 842 843 844
119 Coolant Temperature, Engine
845 846 847 852 854 856 858 862 864 865 866 867 868 869
120 Back-Up Lamps 288 294 320 471 721
121 Brake, Engine 128 129 164 283 286
122 Back-Up Alarm 288 294 320 471 721
Alternator, Voltage Regulation/
123 124 125 156 286 836
Rectifier
125 Park Brake Indicator/Warning 288 294 296 301 320 335 486 838 840 877 880 882
132 Alternator Charge Monitor 124 125 156 286 836
137 Alternator Indicator/Relay 124 125 156 286 836
140 Oil Pressure, Engine 286 320 852
149 Fan Manual Controls, Engine 273 276 286 320
154 Auxiliary Air Pressure 288 320 486 838 840 865 866 877 880 882
155 Axle Lift Controls 288 320 452 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
157 Power Mirror Controls 320 656 744 74E
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
162 Tachometer Sensor + 283 286 320 812 819
163 Tachometer Sensor – 283 286 320 812 819
166 Engine Starting Aid, Ether 132 154 286 320 467
168 Hour Meter, Engine 286 320 812 813 81A 837 852
Fifth Wheel Slide Lock and
170 173 296 297 303 307 308 309 310 331 334 581 87E
Controls
171 Brakesaver, Cat 128 129 286 343 34B 34C 34W 353
172 Clock 287 320 687 738
173 Coolant Level, Engine 152 286 320 856
182 Fuel Pressure 320 841 843 845
183 Air Cleaner Restriction, Engine 329 472
193 Cab Tilt Pump 288 320 670
196 Fuel Water Separator Heater 110 127 220 288
200 PTO Controls 148 283 286 288 320 372
203 Exhaust Brake 128 129 164 283 286
204 Seat Belt Indicator/Warning 320 74F 756 760 763
208 Axle Control, Tri Axle, Steer Lock 288 320 376 452 865 866 874 876 878 87A 87B 87C 87F 896 898 900
209 Axle, Two Speed Shift Control 283 286 288 320 343 376 810 817 876 87C 898
Power Distribution Module, Outside
210 224 281 285 286 291 292 293 295 306 320 321
Cab
211 Security System, Rockwell 287 320 656 787
214 Generator, Auxiliary 124 125 286 599
218 Pyrometer 286 320 858
219 Turbo Pressure 286 320 842
221 Suspension Dump Controls 288 320 87D 888 910
222 Headlamp Dimmer Controls 27D 288 304 312 320 659
160 283 285 286 288 320 330 343 345 34B 34C 355 376 732 736 810
223 Transmission Controls, Auto Shift
811 813 814 817 876 87C 898
224 Transmission Controls 286 288 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 376 876 87C 898
225 Air Pressure Gauge, Primary 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
226 Air Pressure Gauge, Secondary 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
227 Air Pressure Gauge, Application 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
Transmission Controls Power 160 283 285 286 320 330 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 732 736 811 813
232
Supply 814
234 Engine Fan Controls 273 276 286 320
236 Transmission Neutral Indicator 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
242 Seat Controls 320 74F 756 760 763
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
243 Shore Power, Power Inverter 274 277 284 287 307 320 336 337 33C 785
244 Speed Limiter, Vehicle, Hewitt 150 164 283 286
246 Electric Fuel Pump 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 320
250 Predictive Cruise Control 149 283 286
253 Cab Tilt Indicator 288 320 670
Roof Mounted Emergency Lamp/ 264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
254
Strobe 33A
255 Advertising/Identification Lamp 288 296 302 304 30A 319 320 335
256 Optional Power Wire 285 286 306 320 321
261 Axle Lock, Controlled Differential 288 320 865 866
262 Retarder, Allison Transmission 128 129 286 343 34B 34C 34W 353
281 Oil Filter Change Indicator 165 286 320 852
Suspension Electric and Air
285 288 320 87D 888 910
Controls
286 Fuel Water Separator Indicator 122 127 288 320 80F 844 845 847
294 Air Tank Auto Drain Valve 288 480 48A 880
295 Radio, AM/FM/CB/Disc 287 320 746 748 74D 750 751 752 753 75B 75C 79F 79G
299 Air Temperature, Exterior 320 860 867
300 Radio, Audio Signal 287 320 746 74D 750 751 753 75B 75C 79F 79G
303 Low Air Pressure 322 486 838 840 877 880 882
315 Windshield Wipers and Controls 320 321 660 66B
320 Windshield Washer 320 321 660 66B
Diagnostic Connector Power/Tach 160 283 286 320 32A 330 338 343 725 732 733 736 811 812 813 819
331
Ext Test 835 888
338 HVAC Controls 130 287 320 700 703 70A 70B 70C 723
339 LBCU/ICU/Gauge Power/Data 320 732 811 814 860
347 Shutter, Engine Fan 273 276 286 320
359 Headlamp On Signal, LBCU/ICU 27D 288 304 312 320 659
363 Power Windows 320 654 656 66A
364 Power Windows, Rear 320 654 656 66A
Receptacle # 2, Trailer 7-Way, ISO
372 173 296 297 303 307 308 309 310 331 334 335
3731
160 283 285 286 296 308 320 330 331 332 333 335 343 34B 414 447
376 Antilock Brake Controls
44G 44H 454 490 493 732 736 811 813 814
377 Antilock Brake Sensors 308 330 331 332 333 414 447 44G 44H 454 490 493
160 283 285 286 308 320 330 331 332 333 343 34B 414 447 44G 44H
378 Antilock Brake Valves
454 490 493 732 736 811 813 814
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
271 27D 288 294 300 302 304 305 311 312 314 316 318 319 31A 31B
379 Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
31C 31D 31E 31F 320 322 324 325 327 328 469 470 659
388 Hydraulic Brake Power/Controls 288 320 486 49A 880
Optional Circuit, Cab/Chassis, 160 283 285 286 306 320 321 329 330 343 34B 472 732 736 811 813
399
Customer Specified 814 860
Optional Circuit, Cab/Chassis,
400 329 472
Customer Specified
402 Engine Start/Stop System, TAS 152 156 162 283 285 286 287 320 321
Emergency Lamp, Alternating, 264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 287 288 318 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G
406
Access 31J 320 327 33A 57W
407 — —
Emergency Vehicle Accessory and 264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
408
Warning Lights 33A
410 Emergency Siren and Bells 288 320 321 726
416 Refrigerator/Video Power 284 287 320 737 75B 785
417 Mobile Phone Power 320 789 79C
424 Headlamp Wiper/Washer 288 304 312 320
425 PNDB/CLDS Controls 224 277 281 285 291 292 293 295 306
427 Satellite Tracking System 287 320 786 78A 79H 80D
428 Battery Isolator Protection System 124 125 156 224 277 281 285 286 291 292 293 295 306 836
430 Windshield Wiper Heater 320 321 660 66B
431 Starting Aid, Engine Preheater 132 154 286 320 467
432 Seat Controls 320 74F 756 760 763
433 Data Recorder 160 286 320 813
434 Suspension Controls, ECAS 283 286 288 320 343 810 817 87D 888 910
435 Seat Belt Indicator/Warning 320 74F 756 760 763
436 Camera, Rear and Side View 160 288 320 736
437 Instrument Control Unit/LBCU 320 486 732 811 814 838 840 860 877 880 882
439 Engine ECU and Controls 106 128 129 148 152 156 162 164 283 286 372
106 128 129 148 149 152 156 160 162 164 273 276 283 285 286 301
440 Engine ECU and Controls
320 330 343 34B 732 736 811 813 814 856 880
441 Engine ECU and Controls 106 148 164 165 283 286 320 852
442 Data Recorder/Data Logger 160 286 320 813
443 Door Locks 320 655 656 787
Obstacle Detection System/VORAD
444 160 288 320 736 73B 73C
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
130 156 224 277 281 285 287 291 292 293 295 306 320 700 703 70A
447 Battery Cutoff Protection System
70B 723
448 Tail Gate Controls 288 320 329
198 199 283 286 288 320 343 732 810 812 817 830 836 838 83A 840
Fueling Data Recording and
449 841 842 843 844 845 846 847 852 854 856 858 862 864 865 866 867
Transmitter
868 869
450 Mirror Dimming Controls 320 656 744 74E
453 Optional Customer Specified Wiring 164 283 285 286 306 320 321 329 343 345 34B 34C 353 355 472
Inflatable Restraint and Seat
454 160 283 285 286 320 330 343 34B 725 732 736 811 813 814
Pretension
Instrument Left/Right Side
455 320
Selection
457 Dash Controls, Datalink, (BPU) 164 283 286
Step Deployment Unit, Passenger
458 320 675 676 677 67E 67F
Side
459 Steering Pump Controls 539
460 Transmission-Automatic, Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
461 Transmission-Automatic, Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
462 Headlamps, Auxiliary 27D 288 304 312 313 314 320 659
463 Headlamps, Auxiliary Right 27D 288 304 312 313 314 320 659
464 Transmission, Smart Shift Control 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
465 Headlamp, Flashing Control 27D 288 304 312 320 659
466 Land Departure System 160 288 320 736
467 Engine Coolant Flow Systems 152 286 320 856
Obstacle Detection System/VORAD
468 160 288 320 736 73B 73C
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
479 CB Radio Antenna Coaxial 320 748 751 752
480 Switched Auxiliary Air Pressure 288 320 486 49A 880
481 Chassis Expansion Module 160 283 285 286 320 329 330 343 34B 472 732 736 811 813 814
482 Firetruck Pump Controls 148 283 286 372
106 148 152 156 160 162 164 283 285 286 320 330 343 34B 372 732
483 Engine ECU and Controls
736 811 812 813 814 819
484 Tire Chains 288 320 452 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
485 Public Address System 287 320 746 74D 750 751 753 75B 75C 79F 79G
283 286 288 320 732 74F 756 760 763 811 812 814 819 860 867 877
486 Vehicle Information Center
882
Engine Emissions Detection and
487 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 320 811 814 860
Monitor
488 Brake Wear Indicator 320 486 838 840 877 880 882
Bus Door and Window Sensing 287 288 294 300 320 327 329 654 655 656 66A 675 676 677 67E 67F
490
and Warning 700 703 723 787 811 814 860
491 Engine Compartment Lights/Buzzer 287 320 327 329 656 787 811 814 860
492 Engine ECU and Controls 148 150 152 162 164 283 286 320 372
493 All Wheel Drive Controls 288 320 452 874 878 87A 87B 87F 896 900
494 Transmission Shift Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
Emergency Medical Service 264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
495
Accessories 33A
496 Steering Wheel Controls 329 472
497 Transmission Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
498 Transmission Controls 286 320 343 345 34B 34C 353 355
499 Engine ECU and Controls 164 283 286
504 Dome/Interior Lamp 287 320 322 324 325 32C
264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
506 Aerial Equipment Systems
33A
507 MUX Control, MSF/CGW 287 320 786 78A 79H 80D
508 CAN Datalink 287 320 786 78A 79H 80D
264 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
509 Firetruck Pump And Hose Controls
33A
265 271 275 27A 27B 27C 27E 288 31A 31B 31C 31D 31G 320 327
510 Firetruck Pump And Hose Controls
33A
Bus Door and Window Sensing
511 146 155 156 157 158 286 895
and Warning
Emergency Vehicle Auxilixry
512 —
Switches
513 Emergency Vehicle Door Switches —
Circuit Numbers
Circuit
Description Modules
Number
Emergency Vehicle Lights and
514 288 294 320 471 721
Alarm
Emergency Vehicle Tank Level
515 —
Systems
Emergency Vehicle Ladder and
518 —
Rack Systems
519 Emergency Vehicle Body Lighting —
520 Emergency Vehicle Body Lighting —
521 Emergency Vehicle Body Lighting —
522 Emergency Vehicle Body Lighting —
523 Emergency Vehicle Body Lighting —
524 Emergency Vehicle Power Source —
525 Emergency Vehicle Warning Lights —
526 Emergency Vehicle Body Lighting —
527 Firetruck Pump And Hose Controls —
Emergency Vehicle AC Power
528 —
System
529 Windshield Defroster Grid 287 320 716 718
532 Aftertreatment Systems, Exhaust 160 164 283 285 286 320 330 343 34B 732 736 811 813 814
Engine ECU and Controls,
533 106 148 152 164 283 286 320 856
Alternative Fuel
160 283 286 320 32A 330 338 343 725 732 733 736 811 812 813 819
1587 J1587/J1708 Datalink
835 888
1922 J1922 Datalink 160 283 286 330 343
1939 J1939 CAN Datalink 160 283 286 320 330 343 725 732 736 811 813 888
Table 2, Circuit Numbers
• Turn Signals (front, side, side fairing, and rear; The front marker lights are installed on the sun visor.
can also be activated as 4-way flashers) On vehicles with no sun visor installed, they are lo-
cated on the cab roof.
• Identification Lights
On each side of the vehicle, there is a side-marker
• Road Lights light with a dual-filament bulb. The first filament
• Marker Lights (front, side, and side fairing doubles as a turn signal, and the second filament is
clearance) for the parking lights. In addition, there is a clearance
light on the cab side, which also doubles as a turn
• Taillights and Stoplights signal.
• Back-Up Lights On the rear of the vehicle, there are three utility
• Daytime Running Lights (optional) lights. The utility lights with the red lenses have dual-
filament bulbs, with one filament being a combination
Each of these lighting functions illuminates one or taillight, brake light, and rear turn signal, while the
more bulbs on the vehicle. For example, the parking other filament is for the parking lights. The utility light
light circuit illuminates the front turn signal, side with the white lens is a back-up light.
marker, and taillight bulbs.
For vehicles equipped with daytime running lights,
In the front of the vehicle there are headlights, front switching on the ignition and releasing the parking
turn signals, road lights, and front marker lights. See brakes automatically activates the daytime running
Fig. 1. light at reduced voltage. The daytime running lights
share with the headlights. This light will operate as a
2 daytime running light until the parking brakes are ap-
3 plied or the headlight switch is turned on.
CAUTION
Before performing any electric welding on a ve-
hicle, disconnect the battery power and ground
1 cables and the electrical connector at the bottom
5 of the daytime running lights (DRL) module. See
4 Troubleshooting 300 in this section for instruc-
tions. Electric currents produced during electric
welding can damage various electronic compo-
nents on the vehicle.
3
5
Road Lamp Bulb Replacement
1. Tilt the hood.
2. Turn the lamp bulb, with harness connected,
clockwise to release it from the road lamp fixture.
03/29/2000 f543068
1. Daytime Running Light Bulb Harness (if equipped) 3. Remove the bulb assembly from the harness.
2. Low-Beam Headlight Bulb Harness See Fig. 3.
3. High-Beam Headlight Bulb Harness
4. Turn Signal Bulb Harness 4. To provide corrosion protection, coat the pins of
5. Power Plug the connector and new bulb assembly with di-
electric grease. Refer to the approved electrical
Fig. 1, Headlight Bucket (passenger-side shown) lubricants table in Specifications 400.
2. Tilt the hood. IMPORTANT: Handle the new bulb assembly
3. Remove the plastic cover on the back of the
only by the base. Do not touch the glass.
headlamp bucket, the round cover for the DRL or 5. Plug the new bulb assembly into electrical har-
the oval shaped cover for high and low-beam ness.
headlights.
6. Install the bulb assembly into the back of the
4. Replace the appropriate headlight bulb. See road lamp fixture.
Fig. 1.
7. Return the hood to the normal operating position.
5. Install the plastic cover(s).
8. Wipe the lens with a clean cloth to remove any
6. Return the hood to the normal operating position. dirt or skin oil.
9. Test the light for proper operation.
2
4
3
2
1
12/01/1999 f880482
1. Hood 4. Bolt
2. Washer 5. Headlight Bucket
3. Nut
2
3
03/27/2000 f543071
1. Road Lamp Fixture
2. Mounting Brackets
3. Mounting Screws
(Fig. 5)
2
03/30/2000 f543072
1. Amber Lens Bulb Cover
2. Exterior Cab Wall
1
4
09/28/95 f541132
2 1. Dome Light Lens
2. 10–14 Thread-Rolling Screw
3
3. Dome Light Lens Holder
4. Electrical Connector
06/10/98 f601053
5 1
09/28/95 f541131
1. Steering Column Light Bracket
2. Electrical Connector
3. Lamp Base
4. 3/16-Inch Monobolt
5. Lens 2
Fig. 3, Driver’s Floor Courtesy Light
1 2
1
3
04/01/98
4 f610275
Flipper valve shown in rear view.
1. Valve Body
2 2. Bulb Base
3
3. Electrical Connector
04/02/98 f610278 4. Air Line Connectors
1. Switch Body 3. Lens
2. Bulb Fig. 9, Flipper Valve Light
2
2
3
1 3 3 8
4
03/27/2000 f543069
1. Cab Ceiling 3. Bulb
2. Lens
5
Fig. 11, Mid-Roof Dome Light Bulbs 7
09/29/95 f541139
1. Under-Bunk Light 3. Switch
2. Bunk
4
10/09/95 f541152
1 2
6 ft (1.8 m)
3
6 )
t (7.6 m
25 f
5
01/20/2003 f544152
1. Vertical Centerline of Right Headlight 4. Projected Vehicle Centerline
2. Distance Between Headlights 5. Screen or Wall
3. Vertical Centerline of Left Headlight 6. Height of Lamp Centers
01/20/2003 f544240
Measure beam height from the ground to the center of
the low-beam bulb.
1. Low-Beam Bulb and Reflector
2. High-Beam Bulb
1
11/11/2002 f544153
NOTE: The top view shows the ideal beam pattern; the
bottom view shows an acceptable standard.
A. Vertical Centerline B. Horizontal Centerline
1. Bright Area
1 2
04/12/2000 f543079
If the DRLs are not operating properly, do the follow- Left Headlights Off 0
J
ing steps. Headlight Headlights On 12
1. Check the bulbs in the DRLs. Replace any bulb
that is burned out.
2
1
10/10/95 f541156
12 1 2
20
11 21
20A
5
4
10 3
5 20H 3
20H
2
20D
1
GND1
21A
20H 4
4
3
B2
6
5 20H
9 2
1
21H 20H
20L 20L
GND4
21L
8 21H
7 21L
05/15/2000 f541207a
1. Power Distribution Module 6. Right-Hand Headlight Assembly 10. Left Headlight Micro Relay
2. Headlight Switch 7. Chassis Connector 11. 15-Amp Right Headlight Circuit
3. Dimmer Switch 8. 15-Amp ACC Power Circuit Breaker
4. High Beam Indicator Light Breaker 12. 15-Amp Left Headlight Circuit
5. Left-Hand Headlight Assembly 9. Right Headlight Micro Relay Breaker
2 4
1
3
AF2 AA5
36
38A 5
36B
36B
38L
39L
36A
38R
6
L 39R
38 R
38
38L
36B
38R
7
A
39R D3
39L D1 23
12 9
8
38R C8
B4 K2 K3 38L C6
10
13
11
05/15/2000 f541154a
1. Power Distribution Module 6. Turn Signal Switch 10. Right-Hand Front Turn Signal
2. 20-Amp Turn Signal Circuit 7. Chassis Connector 11. Left-Hand Front Turn Signal
Breaker 8. Left-Hand Rear Turn Signal/ 12. Instrumentation Control Unit
3. Flasher Unit Brake Light 13. 7-Way Connector
4. 25-Amp Brake Light Circuit 9. Right-Hand Rear Turn Signal/
Breaker Brake Light
5. Brake Light Switch
38L
38R 2
3
21L A8 21L
21H A4 21H
1
20L A6
20H A2
379D
21L 4
4 9
3 A
5 21H
38R C8
15 1 2 23
38L C6 5
20L
4
8
3
5 20H
379R G7
1 2 379L G5
14
379C
7 6
379
13
379A
12 10
379D
379C
379R
379B
379A
GND
379L
38R
379
38L
J H G D F K E A C B 11
05/15/2000 f541208a
1. Power Distribution Module 6. Right-Hand DRL 11. DRL Module
2. Turn Signal Switch 7. Left-Hand DRL 12. 10-Amp Cluster Circuit Breaker
3. Chassis Connector 8. Left-Hand Turn Signal 13. 10-Amp DRL Circuit Breaker
4. Right Headlight 9. Left Headlight 14. Left Headlight Micro Relay
5. Right-Hand Turn Signal 10. Parking Brake Switch 15. Right Headlight Micro Relay
113 A
113A B LH BAG DOOR SWITCH
113A A A
GND 113 B B
off
BAGGAGE
LIGHT SWITCH LH BAG LT
C 113 113A A
A 113 113 B RH BAG DOOR SWITCH
D 113
B 113 OPEN
See Fig. 5
113A A
113 PORT 113 113 B BUNK LT SWITCH
GND
GND Ref. Diag. D06−24759
07/10/2000 f543217
A B
Ref. Dia.: D06−35321
06/28/2000 f543211
A. Mid-Roof Dome Light Wiring
B. Day Cab Dome Light Wiring
Fig. 5, Dome Light Wiring for Day Cab and Mid-Roof Vehicles
06/28/2000 f543207
Fig. 6, Bunk Light Wiring for Raised-Roof Sleepers with Control Panels on the Upper and Lower Bunks
Fig. 7, Bunk Light Wiring for Raised-Roof Sleepers with Two Control Panels on the Lower Bunks
06/28/2000 f543209
Fig. 8, Bunk Light Wiring for Mid-Roof Sleepers with a Control Panel on the Lower Bunk
06/28/2000 f543210
Fig. 9, Bunk Light Wiring for Raised-Roof Sleepers with a Control Panel on the Lower Bunk
PWR A A 108A
GND B B GND3 GND3 GND
GND3 SPLICE
FLOOR WELL LIGHT RH
GND3
PDM MAIN
B 26 A 24 A1 24 GND B GND
15A 1
A 25 B 24A J4 24A
2 REF INTERNAL LIGHTING C 29A
closed
cb41 SPARE D
DD0
PDM MAIN
57 B CIGAR
GND_BUS AF7 F7 GND A C GND A LIGHTER ELEMENT
PDM_MAIN CIGAR
LIGHTER HOUSING
01/16/97 f541544
WARNING
Do not apply pressure to the end walls of a
plastic-case battery. This could cause electrolyte
to squirt from the vents, possibly resulting in se-
rious injury to skin or eyes.
When handling plastic-case batteries, use a battery
carrier. If one is not available, lift these batteries with
your hands placed at opposite corners of the battery.
Emergency Starting Using 3. Connect the positive (+) jumper cable to the
positive terminal or jump start post on the dis-
Booster Cables charged battery. See Fig. 2.
WARNING
Before jump-starting a vehicle, read the instruc-
tions in Subject 100. Failure to follow the safety
POS JUMP
START STUD
3
precautions could result in personal injury.
2
WARNING NEG JUMP
START STUD
4
D
B
3 E
2
+
+ − −
+ +
− −
C
+ −
+
1 −
01/07/2011 f545725
Disconnect jumper cables in the REVERSE order that they were connected.
A. Discharged Battery C. Positive Jumper Cable E. Booster Battery
B. Negative Ground Stud D. Negative Jumper Cable
1. 1st Connection: Positive Jumper Cable to Discharged Battery
2. 2nd Connection: Positive Jumper Cable to Booster Battery
3. 3rd Connection: Negative Jumper Cable to Booster Battery
4. 4th Connection: Negative Jumper Cable to Negative Ground Stud (discharged battery)
WARNING WARNING
Before charging a battery, read the instructions Always turn the charger off before disconnecting
in Subject 100. Failure to follow the safety pre- it. Touching a charger lead when the circuit is
cautions could result in personal injury. live could create a spark and cause an explosion,
When charging batteries, always wear eye protec- resulting in personal injury.
tion. During charging, batteries give off explosive
hydrogen gas. Exploding gas can cause blind-
ness or other bodily injury.
Battery Charging
AGM batteries may be charged only with a charger
that is specified for AGM batteries. Many older char-
gers operate at a voltage that is too high for AGM
batteries and will cause permanent damage. Never
combine AGM and flooded batteries together for
charging or for use in a vehicle.
See Table 1 for voltage to approximate battery state
of charge for flooded batteries.
WARNING
Before doing any of the following procedures,
read the instructions in Subject 120. Failure to
follow the safety precautions could result in per-
sonal injury.
3
Removal
Before working on any battery box, make sure all 1
electrical loads (lights, ignition, accessories) are 2
turned off.
Note what type of battery box is installed. Removal
procedures for the side-rail battery boxes are similar; 5
those for the between-rail and the above-rail boxes 4
5 8
are completely different. 4
Three basic battery box installations are available.
First, the standard box, long side to rail with a step
and diamond plate side cover (for vehicles with one 6
fuel tank and standard cab entry with no side fair-
ings). See Fig. 1. 8 7
11/30/95 f541174
Second, an optional box, long side to rail with no
step. See Fig. 2. 1. Hold-Down Angle 5. Retainer Bolt
2. Retainer Assembly 6. Battery Box
Third, a between-rail plastic box for vehicles with 3. Cover 7. Step
dual fuel tanks. See Fig. 3. 4. Hold-Down Bolt 8. Latch
SIDE-RAIL BATTERY BOX Fig. 1, Side-Rail Battery Box, Long Side to Rail, with
Step and Diamond Plate Side Cover
1. Remove the threaded fasteners that attach the
air fairing panel (if equipped) in front of the bat-
tery box. Remove the air fairing panel. For in-
BETWEEN-RAIL BATTERY BOX
structions, see Section 31.04, Subject 100. 1. Remove the battery box lid. If equipped, remove
the spring pin.
If no air fairing panel is installed, remove the
step plate. 2. Disconnect the battery cables from the battery
terminals and move the cables out of the way.
2. Pull on the end of each hold-down latch until the
end clears the cover-mounted catch. Pivot the 3. Remove the battery hold-downs. See Fig. 4.
latches out of the way, then lift off the battery box 3.1 Remove the 5/16–18 hold-down locknut
cover. and washer.
3. For assembly reference, note the locations of the
3.2 Slip the hold-down off the 5/16-inch rib-
battery positive and negative terminals in relation
neck bolt.
to surrounding components. Remove the battery
cables. 3.3 Remove the rib-neck bolt and set all hold-
4. Remove the battery retainer assembly. Remove down hardware aside.
the batteries from the carrier. 4. Remove the batteries from the vehicle. For as-
sembly reference, note the locations of the bat-
tery positive and negative terminals in relation to
surrounding components.
1. Positive Cables
(Red)
4. Negative Cables
(Black)
Installation
2. Battery 5. Battery Retainer
3. Battery Box 1. Be sure that the battery to be installed has a suf-
ficient capacity to cover the electrical needs of
Fig. 2, Side-Rail Battery Box, Long Side to Rail, with the vehicle.
Cover Removed
CAUTION
5. Remove the battery box. See Fig. 5.
Using an under-capacity battery will result in
5.1 From underneath the battery box, remove
poor performance and premature battery failure,
the 3/8–16 hexnut and flatwasher from the
resulting in damage or reduced life of the starter.
keeper assembly. Retain the keeper and
spring. 2. Be sure the battery is at full charge when in-
stalled. If the battery has been in storage for
5.2 Remove the battery box from the vehicle. some time, or if the installation is being made in
6. Remove the battery box bracket from the frame subfreezing temperatures, give the battery a
rail. See Fig. 6. boost-charge before installing it. For instructions,
see Subject 120.
6.1 Remove the lock pin and collar from each
Huck® fastener. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 31.01, Subject 050. SIDE-RAIL BATTERY BOX
6.2 Remove the bracket from the frame rail. 1. Place the batteries in the carrier with the termi-
The plastic washers are attached to the nals in the proper position, as referenced earlier.
bracket with pressure-sensitive adhesive The batteries should rest level in the carrier.
and come off with the bracket. 2. Install the battery retainer assembly, and tighten
it until the batteries are secure. See Fig. 1.
Cleaning and Inspection
CAUTION
1. Inspect all battery cables and interconnectors for
wear, and replace them if necessary. Remove Do not overtighten the battery retainer assembly.
corrosion from cables, terminals, and battery Overtightening could damage the batteries.
posts with a wire brush and a solution of baking 3. Connect the battery cables to the batteries.
soda and water. Rinse thoroughly with clean
water, and dry. 3.1 To provide corrosion protection, apply
pumpable dielectric grease (48-02349-
000) liberally to the terminal pads. For a
3
1
5
6
7
4
08/16/95 f541072
1. Battery Box Lid 4. Frame Rail 6. Battery Hold-Downs
2. Spring Pin (if installed) 5. Battery Box 7. Battery
3. Spring Pin Insert Hole
list of approved suppliers, see Specifica- 3.4 Check for correct polarity with respect to
tions 400. the vehicle.
3.2 Install the battery cable interconnectors. 4. Start the engine, and check the operation of the
charging system. If needed, repair the charging
3.3 Tighten the battery cables to the torque system to obtain the correct charging output. For
specifications listed on the battery, gener- instructions, see the appropriate section in
ally 10 to 15 lbf·ft (14 to 20 N·m). Connect Group 15.
the ground cable last.
CAUTION CAUTION
Make sure all battery posts are covered with pro-
Make sure the polarity is correct. Reversed polar- tective caps. Failure to do so could cause the
ity may cause serious damage to the electrical battery box cover to short across the posts.
system.
1
2
3
1
2
3
5 4
4
8
6
7
6 9
10
08/16/95 f541073 08/17/95 f541075
CAUTION
Make sure all battery posts are covered with pro-
2
tective caps. Failure to do so could cause the
battery box cover to short across the posts.
3
4 7. Install the battery box cover. If equipped, install
the spring clip.
4
08/17/95 f541077
1. Frame Rail 3. Bracket
2. Huck Lock Pin 4. Plastic Washers
CAUTION
Do not overtighten the battery hold-downs. Over-
tightening could damage the batteries.
4.3 Tighten each locknut 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m).
5. Connect the battery cables to the batteries.
5.1 To provide corrosion protection, apply
pumpable dielectric grease (48-02349-
000) liberally to the terminal pads. For a
list of approved suppliers, see Specifica-
tions 400.
5.2 Install the battery cable interconnectors.
5.3 Tighten the battery cables to the torque
specifications listed on the battery, gener-
ally 10 to 15 lbf·ft (14 to 20 N·m). Connect
the ground cable last.
5.4 Check for correct polarity with respect to
the vehicle.
CAUTION
Make sure the polarity is correct. Reversed polar-
ity may cause serious damage to the electrical
system.
06/24/2013 f151184
General Information
All 12-volt starting systems are equipped with a
heavy duty starter relay, referred to as a magnetic
switch. See Fig. 1. The magnetic switch is attached
to the lower left-hand frontwall. When the ignition
switch is held in the extreme clockwise (START) po-
sition, the magnetic switch closes, connecting electri-
cal current to the starter motor solenoid. The starter
motor solenoid engages the starter motor pinion into
the engine flywheel ring gear and then energizes the
starter motor.
1
4
2
10/25/95 3 f150555
NOTE: Before replacing the magnetic switch, or 11. Install the inner fender splash shield.
repairing or replacing any of the starting and 12. Connect the batteries and close the hood.
charging circuits, do the Preliminary Checks and
the Magnetic Switch Circuit Test as described in 13. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Troubleshooting, 300.
Replacement
The magnetic switch cannot be disassembled. If the
magnetic switch does not work, replace it.
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the rear
tires.
2. Open the hood.
3. Disconnect the batteries.
4. Locate the magnetic switch on the frontwall.
5. Mark the wires for later reference, then discon-
nect the wires that are attached to the magnetic
switch. See Fig. 1.
6. Remove the two mounting screws that attach the
magnetic switch to the frontwall.
7. Remove the two large terminal nuts.
8. Disconnect the two-pin pigtail connector. Remove
the magnetic switch.
9. Install the new magnetic switch on the frontwall.
9.1 Tighten the mounting screws 84 lbf·in (940
N·cm).
9.2 Connect the wires to the magnetic switch,
using the marks made on removal.
Tighten the terminal nuts securely.
9.3 Connect the 2-pin pigtail connector.
10. Spray any exposed terminal connectors with di-
electric red enamel. See Table 1.
G
M
B
S
2
15A
− + 15C
1 3
9 15B
14
16
10
52
AA6 4
8
7
6 5 15A
15 15K
02/19/2007 f150543a
1. Battery 5. Splice Connector 8. Power Distribution Module
2. Cranking Motor (top view) 6. Ignition Switch 9. Cab/Frontwall Power Stud
3. Magnetic Switch 7. Circuit Breaker, 10-Amp 10. Engine Power Stud
4. Frontwall Connector (Pin E1)
G
M
B
S
2
15A
− + 15C
1 3
9 15B
14
16
10
52
AA6 4
8
7
6 5 15A
15 15K
07/16/98 f150543a
1. Battery 5. Splice Connector 8. Power Distribution Module
2. Cranking Motor (top view) 6. Ignition Switch 9. Cab/Frontwall Power Stud
3. Magnetic Switch 7. Circuit Breaker, 10-Amp 10. Engine Power Stud
4. Frontwall Connector (pin E1)
If the magnetic switch closes during the cranking cir- If the voltage reading is 0.5 volt or less, the mag-
cuit test and the starter wiring test, also check the netic switch contactors are satisfactory.
magnetic switch contactor for voltage loss when it is
under a heavy electrical load. If the voltage reading is more than 0.5 volt, re-
place the magnetic switch.
1. Disconnect (at the magnetic switch) the wire 15C
from the S (starter solenoid) terminal and con- 7. Connect wire 15C from the starter solenoid S
nect one lead from a carbon pile tester to that terminal to the magnetic switch.
magnetic switch terminal stud. 8. Close the hood and remove the chocks from the
2. Connect the other lead of the carbon pile to the tires.
G (ground) terminal on the starter.
3. Set a digital voltmeter on the low scale and con-
nect the positive lead to the magnetic switch bat-
tery terminal (15B). Connect the negative lead to
the large terminal on the magnetic switch that
has the carbon pile connected. See Fig. 2.
2
1
15B
15C 3
B
4
S
11/10/99 f150549a
1. Magnetic Switch 4. Starter Solenoid
2. Digital Voltmeter 5. Cranking Motor
3. Carbon Pile
G
M
B
S
2
15A
− + 15C
1 3
9 15B
14
16
10
52
AA6 4
8
7
6 5 15A
15 15K
07/16/98 f150543a
1. Battery 5. Splice Connector 8. Power Distribution Module
2. Cranking Motor (top view) 6. Ignition Switch 9. Cab/Frontwall Power Stud
3. Magnetic Switch 7. 10-Amp Circuit Breaker 10. Engine Power Stud
4. Frontwall Connector (Pin E1)
General Information
Circuits requiring protection are routed through circuit 2 3
breakers mounted in a power distribution module.
There are two power distribution modules. The main
power distribution module ( Fig. 1) is the electrical 1
power center of the vehicle and is mounted under- 4
neath the electrical cover inside the upper dash as-
5
sembly (right-hand panel).
6 9
1 7
8
10
11
06/22/98 f542599
Removal
4
3
1. Apply the parking brakes and chock the rear
tires. Disconnect the batteries.
2. Push the button to remove the electrical cover.
3. Remove the HVAC ducting. 5
6.4 Disconnect the accessory (ACC) and igni- NOTE: To disconnect the junction connec-
tion (IGN) relays (the two relays fastened tors, first disconnect, from the engine side,
to the PDM with spade connectors). Then the cannon plugs leading to the junction
detach the clips from the PDM with care. connectors. Both the cannon plugs and the
junction connectors fasten with clips on their
IMPORTANT: Do not break the clip off the
top edges.
spade connector.
6.6 Remove the electrical pins and connec-
6.5 Rotate the PDM to an angle of about 60° tors from the four terminals at the bottom
from vertical to expose the bottom of the of the PDM, including the large 46-pin
PDM. If the PDM will not rotate that far connector N. See Fig. 4.
because of binding from the electrical
harness, disconnect the three main junc- NOTE: There is a 7-mm capscrew attaching
46-pin connector N to the PDM.
1 9
ACC
1
IGN
2
ISO
BAT
3
2
4
6 7 3
5 8
08/31/95 f541084
4
1. 46-Pin Connector A 6. 2-Pin Connector F
2. 6-Pin Connector B 7. 2-Pin Connector G
3. 6-Pin Connector C 8. 2-Pin Connector H 08/31/95 A f541085
4. 6-Pin Connector D 9. 8-Pin Connector J
5. 8-Pin Connector E A. Forward edge of PDM.
1. 46-Pin Connector N 3. 6-Pin Connector L
Fig. 2, Pin Connectors (top view) 2. 2-Pin Connector M 4. 6-Pin Connector K
2 Installation
1 1. With the PDM tilted upwards, install the connec-
tors to the bottom of the PDM. Attach the 7-mm
capscrew to 46-pin connector N. See Fig. 4.
2. Place the PDM over the two attaching studs with
the holes lined up. Make sure the ground wire
and all ring terminals, harnesses and electrical
A connectors are clear. See Fig. 1.
B
3. Install the PDM on the vehicle.
3.1 Install the ground connector to the lower
right-hand receptacle.
09/06/95 f541097 3.2 Install the ring connectors using the mark-
Tilt the PDM onto its forward edge. At Angle A, it can be ings made on removal. Install the attach-
removed from the vehicle more easily. ing nuts and washers.
A. 60° angle (approximate). 3.3 Attach the 7-mm capscrew to the 46-pin
B. Original position of PDM. connector and install it to the top of the
1. Upper Dash Panel PDM. See Fig. 2.
2. Power Distribution Module
3.4 Attach all relays and electrical connectors
Fig. 3, Tilting the Power Distribution Module to the top of the PDM, using the markings
6.7 After all the plugs and connectors have made on removal. Attach all locking clips
been removed, remove the PDM from the and make sure the connections are firm.
vehicle. IMPORTANT: Do not break the clip off the
spade connector.
1
4
5
6 9
1 7
8
10
11
06/22/98 f542599
Main PDM
To troubleshoot malfunctioning circuit breakers (C/Bs)
and relays, do the following:
1. Check the circuit breaker/relay location on the
applicable figure.
2. Check the applicable table to find the breaker or
relay size and note the pin (or plug) positions.
3. Replace the C/B or relay.
4. Find the pinouts (or plug-ins) on the applicable
figure and check the circuit again.
For circuit breaker and relay locations on the main
power distribution module (PDM), see Fig. 1.
For a list of standard component circuit breakers and
relays installed in the main PDM, see Table 1. For a
list of optional component circuit breakers and relays
installed in the main PDM, see Table 2.
5 9
1 2 3 4 7 8
6 10
ACC
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
IGN
25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
ISO
BAT
37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
53 54
56 57 58 59
55
64
60 61 62 63 Ref. Diagram:
D06−23087 Chg.Ltr. F
60X 61X 62X 63X 64X
01/15/97 f541083
28 AE1 15-Amp C/B Left Headlight Table 1, Main PDM Circuit Breaker/Relay ID (standard
components)
29 AD4 15-Amp C/B Right Headlight
AB7
Circuit Breaker/Relay ID (optional components)
30 AF4 Micro Relay Panel Lights
Pos. Pin No. Component Description
AD6
01 AE5 10-Amp C/B Engine Fan
31 AE1 * Micro Relay Left Headlight
BC
32 AD4 * Micro Relay Right Headlight
FA
AE3 * Tractor Tail & Marker 03 10-Amp C/B Power Door Locks
33 Micro Relay GA
AD3 * Lights
KC
AE8 *
35 Micro Relay High-Speed Wipers 05 LB 30-Amp C/B Fuel Heater
NE8 *
06 KB 30-Amp C/B Trailer Aux
AD8 *
36 Micro Relay Low-Speed Wipers 07 LB Mini Relay Fuel Heater
NB5 *
10 MA 60-Amp Fuse Sleeper Cab Wiring
38 AA6 10-Amp C/B Ignition Switch
ED
AE3 * 14 10-Amp C/B Radio (ACC Bus)
39 15-Amp C/B Tractor Taillights JB
AD3 *
AB1
40 AA5 25-Amp C/B Stop Lights 15 15-Amp C/B Utility Lights
BA
AF3
41 15-Amp C/B Cigar Lighter CE Right-Hand Power
DD 18 15-Amp C/B
LA Window
43 AC6 * 15-Amp C/B Dome Light
19 JA 10-Amp C/B Windshield Fan
EC Accessory-Powered
45 15-Amp C/B NE7
JH Options
20 NE6 20-Amp C/B Road Lights
48 NF5 10-Amp C/B Back-Up Lights
AE4
49 AD5 * 15-Amp C/B Windshield Wipers
DF
52 ND8 15-Amp C/B Horn 21 10-Amp C/B CB Radio (ACC Bus)
JF
53 NF8 30-Amp C/B Trailer Taillights
22 LE 10-Amp C/B Daytime Running Lights
54 NA2 30-Amp C/B Trailer Marker Lights
23 JC 10-Amp C/B Spotlight
55 AA2 * 30-Amp C/B HVAC
24 LC 30-Amp C/B Trailer ABS
AA1 *
25 CC 15-Amp C/B Left-Hand Power Window
56 NF2 * Mini Relay HVAC High-Speed
CB
NF7 * IGN Accessory-Powered
27 DB 30-Amp C/B
AA2 * Options
57 Mini Relay HVAC Regular-Speed LF
KA *
58 NF6 * Mini Relay Trailer Taillights
ACC
34 NE6 Micro Relay Road Lights
IGN
AE4 2
ISO
AB2
BAT
37 15-Amp C/B Heated Mirror 3
CD
4
42 AC1 10-Amp C/B Engine ECM
6 7
EE
44 15-Amp C/B Optional Switch Power (1) 5 8
LD
08/31/95 f541084
46 DC 30-Amp C/B Power Seat
1. 46-Pin Connector A 6. 2-Pin Connector F
EF 2. 6-Pin Connector B 7. 2-Pin Connector G
47 15-Amp C/B Optional Switch Power (2) 3. 6-Pin Connector C 8. 2-Pin Connector H
JG
4. 6-Pin Connector D 9. 8-Pin Connector J
50 ND6 15-Amp C/B Air Dryer 5. 8-Pin Connector E
FB Fig. 2, Main PDM Pin Connectors (top view)
51 30-Amp C/B Ignition-Powered Options
DA
60 — Mini Relay Optimized Idle C8 D8
A7 B8 E8
61 — Mini Relay Optimized Idle F7
D E F
For location of pin connectors on the top of the main C B A
J
A H
Auxiliary Power Module
The Columbia has an auxiliary power module with six
ACC
plug-in connectors (two each on the top, right-hand
side, and bottom of the module case).
On the auxiliary power module itself, there are three
rows:
IGN
lays.
• Row G, the bottom row, contains between 3
and 8 fuses, depending on options installed.
BAT
H
10/04/95 f541104
F7
K L M E8
F1 N
E1
D8
F E D A B D1
A B C A B C C8
F E D C1
B8
B1
A7
A1
1 2 3 4
11/27/95 f541086
1. 6-Pin Connector K 3. 2-Pin Connector M 06/22/98 f542601
2. 6-Pin Connector L 4. 46-Pin Connector N
Fig. 6, Circuit Breaker/Relay Locations, Auxiliary
Fig. 5, Main PDM Pin Connectors (bottom view) Power Module
of the pin in the row, if there is more than one. If For lists of all component fuses (standard and op-
there is only one pin in a row, this number is tional), circuit breakers, and relays installed in the
missing. auxiliary power module, together with the connector
1 9
ACC
IGN
2
ISO
BAT
3 A A1
B1 E1 F1
4 C1 D1
6 7
5 8 D E F
C B A
08/31/95 f541084 B
1. 46-Pin Connector A 6. 2-Pin Connector F
2. 6-Pin Connector B 7. 2-Pin Connector G D E F
3. 6-Pin Connector C 8. 2-Pin Connector H C B A
D E
C F
B G
A H
J
ACC
IGN
ISO
BAT
H
10/04/95 f541104
F7
K L M E8
F1 N
E1
D8
F E D A B D1
A B C A B C C8
F E D C1
B8
B1
A7
A1
1 2 3 4
11/27/95 f541086
1. 6-Pin Connector K 3. 2-Pin Connector M
2. 6-Pin Connector L 4. 46-Pin Connector N
DE
L.H. HDLP IGN POWER−OPT
JD
AE1 15A BRKR 15A BRKR
NC1
(CYCLING)
52C
AD4 15A BRKR 10A BRKR
05/15/2000
(CYCLING) AF1
AD1
1
5
Fig. 6
AD2
CA ENG ECM
IGN RELAY
AC1
2
3
10A BRKR
A
MICRO RELAY
1 2 AB3
AD7
14A
5 AB4
3
OPT GA IGN PWR
NE1 4 BD
10A BRKR
L.H. HDLT
52D
BE
B. Do not use.
AB5
NC3 BF
EA MICRO RELAY ENG FAN
AE5
1 2 10A BRKR
KF
S
NB8 5
IGNITION
KD 3
4
R.H. HDLT BACK−UP LIGHT
ND7 NF5
10A BRKR
AB6 52
SWITCH
CF A/C CLUTCH
MICRO RELAY AF5
10A BRKR
1 2 PANEL LP
AF4
15A BRKR
5
AB7
3
52B
4 AIR DRYER
PANEL LP ND6
15A BRKR
14C
AD6
DA
3
IGN POWER−OPT
FB
30A BRKR
MINI−RELAY
ACC RELAY
AD5
5
2 1
WIPER HI
NA2
2
5 TRLR MRKR
1 2
52A
KE TAIL/MRKR MIRROR
AB2
NC5 15A BRKR
CD
NC6
NC7
NC8 ACC POWER
EC
AD3 15A BRKR
JH
MINI−RELAY
2 1
RADIO
ED
NF6 5 TRLR TLR 10A BRKR
3 30A MAXIBRKR JB
4
TRLR TL
CB RADIO
DF
FLASHER 10A BRKR
AF2 20A BRKR JF
ACC POWER−OPT
WINDSHIELD FAN
JA
HORN 10A BRKR
ND8 15A BRKR
MICRO RELAY
2 1
AE4 SPOTLIGHT
JC
ROAD LT 10A BRKR
NE7 5
3 20A BRKR
4
NE6 ROAD LP ISO BUSS
LD
OPT SW 1
EE
15A BRKR
MINI−RELAY
1 2 14B (TO BATTERY)
EF
5 FUEL HTR OPT SW 2
CIGAR
AF3
CE 15A BRKR
R.H. WDO DD
LA 15A BRKR
SLEEPER (E−BOX)
MA
BC 60A MAXIFUSE
BATT PWR OPT
FA DOOR LOCK
GA AB1
KC UTILITY LT
BA
STARTER 1 2
IGN PWR OPT
LOCKOUT
5
AB8
DD D NF2
4
3
MINI−RELAY
B
TRLR AUX
KB 30A MAXIBRKR
C. Circuit assignments to this optional pin position must be approved by Freightliner Engineering.
5
AA2
3 30A MAXIBRKR
KA 4
HVAC
TRLR ABS
LC 30A BRKR
C
AA3
CLUSTER
ZN C8
ZN D8
AA4
CONT’D
CONT’D
10A BRKR
AA7
E
BB
E−BOX
MB 40A MAXIFUSE
IGNITION
AA6 10A BRKR
AC2
AC3
AF6
Reference Diagram: D06−21957 Chg.Ltr. H
AF7
EB
HA
HB
NA1
NA3
Fig. 7
NF1
NF3
Each relay terminal has a position number. On micro relays, the terminal number corresponds exactly to the position number.
f541242
400/3
Specifications
54.04
IGNITION BUS
400/4
DE
01/17/97
L.H. HDLP IGN POWER−OPT
JD
AE1 15A BRKR 15A BRKR
NC1
(CYCLING)
52C
AD4 15A BRKR 10A BRKR
(CYCLING) AF1
54.04
AD1
1
5
AD2
A
CA ENG ECM
IGN RELAY
AC1
2
3
10A BRKR
MICRO RELAY
Specifications
1 2 AB3
AD7
14A
5 AB4
3
OPT GA IGN PWR
NE1 4 BD
10A BRKR
L.H. HDLT
52D
AB5 BE
NC3 BF
EA MICRO RELAY ENG FAN
AE5
1 2 10A BRKR
KF
S
NB8 5
IGNITION
KD 3
4
R.H. HDLT BACK−UP LIGHT
ND7 NF5
10A BRKR
52
AB6
SWITCH
CF A/C CLUTCH
MICRO RELAY AF5
10A BRKR
1 2 PANEL LP
AF4
15A BRKR
5
AB7
3
52B
4 AIR DRYER
PANEL LP ND6
15A BRKR
14C
AD6
DA
3
IGN POWER−OPT
FB
30A BRKR
AD5
5
1 2
WIPER HI
NA2
2
5 TRLR MRKR
1 2
52A
FLASHER DB
BATT BUS
ACC POWER−OPT
GB
STOP LP 30A BRKR
AA5 25A BRKR LF
WINDSHIELD FAN
JA
HORN 10A BRKR
ND8 15A BRKR
Fig. 7
Fig. 7
Fig. 7
f541243
Each relay terminal has a position number. On micro relays, the terminal number corresponds exactly to the position number.
Power Distribution Module
Fig. 6
14 (TO BATTERY)
14B (TO BATTERY)
SLEEPER (E−BOX)
ISO BUSS
30A MAXIBRKR
60A MAXIFUSE
SPOTLIGHT
UTILITY LT
10A BRKR
15A BRKR
15A BRKR
15A BRKR
15A BRKR
15A BRKR
OPT SW 1
OPT SW 2
CIGAR
DOME
HVAC
CONT’D
ZN D8
2
MINI−RELAY
MINI−RELAY
3
3
HVAC
HVAC HI S
5
1
1
4
4
Fig. 6
AC5
AC6
AC7
AC8
NB3
NB4
AB1
NF7
AA1
NF2
AA2
AF3
MA
DD
EE
BA
KA
LD
EF
JG
JC
JE
B C
BATT PWR OPT
30A MAXIBRKR
30A MAXIBRKR
40A MAXIFUSE
DOOR LOCK
PWR SEAT
TRLR AUX
FUEL HTR
TRLR ABS
20A BRKR
10A BRKR
15A BRKR
15A BRKR
30A BRKR
30A BRKR
10A BRKR
10A BRKR
R.H. WDO
L.H. WDO
CLUSTER
IGNITION
ROAD LT
E−BOX
DRL
Fig. 6
4
NICRO−RELAY
1
1
2
MINI−RELAY
LOCKOUT
STARTER
FUEL HTR
ROAD LP
2
2
3
4
4
AC2
AC3
NA1
NA3
NE7
NE6
AA6
AE4
AE6
AE7
AB8
AA3
AA4
AA7
NF1
NF3
AF6
AF7
EB
MB
CC
GA
DC
CE
BC
KC
HA
HB
KB
BB
FA
LC
LB
LE
LA
DD D E
01/17/97 Reference Diagram: D06−21957 Chg. Ltr. H f541244
Each relay terminal has a position number. On micro relays, the terminal number corresponds exactly to the position number.
On all other relays (mini relays, ignition-powered relays), see Table 1.
NOTE: Starter lockout circuitry not available at this time.
B. Do not use. D. Reserved for starter lockout circuitry.
C. Circuit assignments to this optional pin position must E. Reserved for ignition keyswitch courtesy light feed.
be approved by Freightliner Engineering.
Fig. 9 Fig. 10
1
3 4 5 6
06/23/98 f542602a
1. Connector P6 3. Connector P1 5. Connector P3
2. Connector P5 4. Connector P2 6. Connector P4
3 4
Fig. 10
06/23/98 f542603a
1. Connector P6 3. Connector P1
2. Connector P5 4. Connector P2
Fig. 9
5 6
General Information
An air restriction indicator ( Fig. 1) or gauge indi-
cates how much air filter capacity has been used and
how much remains. It registers the actual maximum
restriction of the filter element (or elements, if two air
cleaners are installed) when the engine is operating
at full load.
2 3
08/18/95 f090146
06/13/95 f600935
2 3
08/18/95 f090146
HEADLIGHTS ON POWER ON
IGNITION ON
123456
MI
ODOMETER ICU PERFORMS SELFTEST:
SCREEN ELECTRONIC GAUGE NEEDLES
SWEEP, WARNING/INDICATOR
LIGHTS COME ON, BUZZER SOUNDS
A/C 190
FAULT CODE
123456 SCREEN
MI
PARK BRAKE
RELEASED − MOVING
RELEASE PARK BRAKE
123456
MI
10/03/97 f040395
During the first half of the self-test, all segments of the display illuminate. During the second half of the self-test, the software
revision level is displayed.
NOTE: If there is more than one fault, the level II ICU displays them, one after another, changing every three seconds,
until the park brake is released.
IMPORTANT: The level II ICU is also known (on ICU Replacement (With Gauge
ServiceLink) as the ICU2L.
Replacement)
Replacement 1. Remove the left-hand dash panels. Be sure the
screws that attach the dash panel trimtop to the
The instrumentation control unit, level II (level II ICU) upper dash assembly have been removed. For
includes the driver’s instrument panel, the ICU hous- instructions, see Section 60.08, Subject 100.
ing, and the dash message center (all installed as 2. Remove the screw that attaches the dash panel
one unit). See Fig. 1. trimtop to the lower dash panel. This screw is
located on the far left of the trimtop.
2 3
4
CAUTION
Electronic components of the ICU are vulnerable
to damage from static electricity. If available,
wear a wrist grounding strap connected to a
ground in the cab or workbench. If a grounding
strap is not available, touch a grounded compo-
nent immediately before doing any work which
could bring a tool or body part in contact with
1 ICU circuitry.
3. Remove the fasteners from the driver’s instru-
09/27/95 f600991
ment panel. See Fig. 2. Fasteners used on the
level II ICU are T25 Torx® dog-point screws. See
1. Driver’s Instrument Panel Fig. 3.
2. Dash Message Center
3. Dash Driver Display Screen 3.1 Remove the bezel from the dash message
4. Warning and Indicator Lights center, exposing the two screws under-
neath it. For more information, see Sub-
Fig. 1, Driver’s Instrument Panel ject 140.
To replace one of the following components, refer to 3.2 Remove the two screws underneath the
the indicated subject or topic. dash message center bezel.
• Complete level II ICU with a new set of 3.3 Remove the four screws on the bottom of
gauges, see "ICU Replacement" (With Gauge the driver’s panel.
Replacement);
3.4 Remove the two screws on the sides of
• Level II ICU and reinstall the old set of gauges, the driver’s panel.
see "ICU Replacement" (Without Gauge Re-
placement);
• Individual gauges, switches, or flipper valves,
CAUTION
see Subject 150; When removing the ICU, the wiring harness may
• Light bulbs (gauge light, or warning and indica- have to be loosened before the driver’s panel can
tor light), see Subject 120; be pulled free of the dash. Do not forcibly pull
the driver’s panel from the dash. This may dis-
• Warning buzzer, see Subject 130; connect wires from the harness electrical con-
• Dash driver display screen, see Subject 140. nectors on the back of the ICU housing and dam-
age them.
4. Pull the old ICU away from the dash.
2
2
3
6
2
2
5 2
2
4
2 8
2
07/29/98 1 f601457
1. Message Center Bezel 4. Display Screen Screw 7. Mechanical Gauge
2. Dog-Point Screw 5. Dash Driver Display Screen 8. Electronic Gauge
3. Driver’s Instrument Panel 6. ICU Housing
Fig. 2, Instrumentation Control Unit, Level II (ICU2L)
4 1
10
8
7
5
4
04/18/97 f601357
NOTE: Gauges have been removed.
1. Speed Nut 5. Gauge Light Bulb 8. Dash Display Screen
2. Dash Panel Trimtop 6. Buzzer 9. Warning and Indicator Light Bulb
3. ICU Housing, RH 7. Message Center Bezel 10. ICU Housing, LH
4. T25 Dog-Point Screw
1 2 9 10
3 4 11 12
7 8
5 6 13 14
04/05/2005 f610764
1. Oil Pressure Gauge (DR001) 6. Pyrometer (DR006) 11. Fuel Gauge (DR011)
2. Water Temperature Gauge 7. Tachometer (DR007) 12. Transmission Fluid Temperature
(DR002) 8. Speedometer (DR008) Gauge (DR012)
3. Oil Temperature Gauge (DR003) 9. Primary Air Pressure Gauge 13. Forward Axle Temperature
4. Voltmeter (DR004) (DR009) Gauge (DR013)
5. Turbo Air Pressure Gauge 10. Secondary Air Pressure Gauge 14. Rear Axle Temperature Gauge
(DR005) (DR010) (DR014)
Fig. 6, Gauge Hole Position Numbers
1 2
1
2
3 4 3
4
5 6
09/25/95 f600994 5
NOTE: Gauge layouts may vary. To work properly, 09/25/95 6 f600995
gauges must be installed in their correct locations. NOTE: Gauge layouts may vary. To work properly,
1. Oil Pressure Gauge gauges must be installed in their correct locations.
2. Water Temperature Gauge 1. Primary Air Pressure Gauge
3. Oil Temperature Gauge 2. Secondary Air Pressure Gauge
4. Voltmeter 3. Fuel Gauge
5. Turbo Air Pressure Gauge 4. Transmission Fluid Temperature Gauge
6. Pyrometer 5. Forward Axle Temperature Gauge
6. Rear Axle Temperature Gauge
Fig. 8, Driver’s Panel Gauge Layout (left-hand side)
Fig. 9, Driver’s Panel Gauge Layout (right-hand side)
NOTE: Mechanical (air) gauges do not make a
sweep.
Changing 1 2 3 10 11 12 13
NOTE: This subject covers bulb replacement for Warning and Indicator Light
gauges and for the warning and indicator lights.
Bulb Replacement
Gauge Light Bulb Replacement NOTE: Small gauge bulbs are the same size as
warning and indicator light bulbs.
1. Remove the gauge. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 110. 1. Remove the Driver Message Center bezel. For
NOTE: Small gauge bulbs are the same size as instructions, see Subject 140.
warning and indicator light bulbs. Large gauges 2. Retrieve the bulb replacement tool from its hous-
have larger light bulbs. ing underneath the bezel. See Fig. 2.
2. Remove the old bulb by grasping it with the fin-
2 3
gers and pulling until it comes out. There are two 1 4
bulbs in large-face gauges, and one bulb in
small-face gauges. See Fig. 1.
1 1
08/17/95 f600998
1. Bulb
2. Bulb Replacement Tool
08/17/95 f600997 3. Replacement Tool Housing
1. Bulb 4. Screw
Fig. 1, Gauge Light Bulb Replacement Fig. 2, Warning and Indicator Light Bulb Replacement
NOTE: If broken, the bulbs in the large-face 3. Remove the old bulb from its socket.
gauges may be removed by twisting the bulb 3.1 Gently press the tool onto the bulb until it
socket on the back of the ICU and removing the fits snugly.
socket through the hole in back shield of the
housing. 3.2 Pull the tool outward to free the bulb from
its socket.
3. Install the new bulb by inserting it into the correct
bulb socket and pushing it until it seats. Gently 3.3 Remove the bulb from the tool when it is
tug on the bulb to make sure it is properly free of the socket. Hold the bulb with one
seated. hand and twist the tool with the other
hand.
4. Install the gauge. For instructions, see Sub-
ject 110. 4. Insert the new bulb in the socket.
5. Turn on the dash lights and check the new 4.1 Insert the new bulb into the end of the
bulb(s) for proper operation. replacement tool.
4.2 Gently push the new bulb into the socket
until it seats. Gently twist while pulling
outward on the tool to free it from the
bulb.
1 2
09/25/95 f600999
Viewed from front of driver’s panel.
1. Buzzer 2. Screw
CAUTION
Be sure that the wires are clear of the tachometer
contact pins. Otherwise, the buzzer wiring may
be damaged.
2 1
04/04/97 f601019a
1. Dash Driver Display Screen
2. Screw Hole
Gauge Replacement 1 2
7
First, determine if the gauge to be replaced is an 6
2
electronic or mechanical gauge. There are different
procedures for electronic and mechanical gauges.
ELECTRONIC GAUGES
For large-face gauges, such as the speedometer or
tachometer, and for small-face gauges located in the 4
A-panel, see Fig. 1. For small-face electronic gauges 5
located in the auxiliary panel, such as the voltmeter
or fuel gauge, see Fig. 2.
3
11/06/98 f601738
4. When finished, turn on the ignition and test the 5. When finished, turn on the ignition (for air
operation of the new gauge(s). All the electronic gauges, turn on the air system) and test the op-
gauges (except the voltmeter) should make one eration of the new gauge(s).
complete sweep and return to their normal indi-
cating positions; the warning and indicator lights B-PANEL GAUGE HOUSINGS
should turn on, then off.
1. Remove the gauge. For procedures, see either
MECHANICAL GAUGES "Electronic Gauge Replacement" or "Mechanical
Gauge Replacement."
IMPORTANT: Be sure to note gauge location 2. Remove the old front-removable gauge housing.
before removal. Air gauges will not function cor- See Fig. 2. From the back of the panel, unplug
rectly if moved to a new location unless the air the main cab harness electrical connector from
hose for the gauge is also moved to the new the gauge housing.
location.
3. Install a new front-removable gauge housing.
1. Grasp the gauge bezel with the fingertips and
twist it counterclockwise until it comes free of the 3.1 Install the electrical connector to the
panel. Pull the gauge straight out of its housing. gauge housing.
See Fig. 2. 3.2 Place the tab on the back of the housing
at 6 o’clock.
WARNING 3.3 Slide the housing into the panel from the
front.
Remove the compressed air from the air tanks
before disconnecting the hoses to the air gauges. 3.4 Press in firmly until the housing snaps
Failure to do so could cause the hoses to move into position.
uncontrollably and cause personal injury or dam-
4. Install the gauge. For procedures, see either
age to the equipment.
"Electronic Gauge Replacement" or "Mechanical
2. Remove the air hose from the gauge. Gauge Replacement."
2.1 Carefully pull the hose out through the 5. When finished, turn on the ignition and test the
panel housing. operation of the new gauge(s). All the electronic
gauges (except the voltmeter) should make one
2.2 While holding the gauge in the palm of complete sweep and return to their normal indi-
one hand, press on the colored collar cating positions; the warning and indicator lights
around the hose. Remove the hose with should turn on, then off.
the free hand.
3. Install the air hose in the new gauge. Flipper Valve Replacement
3.1 Insert the hose into the colored collar.
Push on it gently to seat it, being careful IMPORTANT: Be sure to note flipper valve loca-
not to kink the hose. tion before removal. If moved to a new location,
3.2 Tug firmly on the hose to be sure it is flipper valves will not function correctly without
well gripped by the collar. also relocating the associated hoses.
3.3 Lead the hose carefully back into the 1. From the back of the valve, unplug the electrical
panel housing, being careful not to kink it. connector. See Fig. 2. Hold on to the connector
and avoid pulling on the wires.
4. Insert the new gauge carefully into the opening
in the panel. When fully inserted, grasp the bezel 2. Disconnect the air supply and distribution hoses.
with fingertips and twist until the gauge clicks
into position. Tug gently at the gauge to be sure
it is properly seated.
5.2 With the other hand, connect the air sup- 2.2 From the back of the panel, depress the
ply and distribution hoses as marked on two locking clips and pull the switch out
removal. Connect any jumper hoses as the front of the panel.
marked. 3. Install the new switch(es) in the panel.
5.3 While still supporting the valve with one 3.1 Make sure the top of the switch is up
hand, connect the electrical connector. when installed.
6. When finished, turn on the ignition and test the 3.2 Press the switch into the panel from the
new flipper valve(s) for correct operation. front until it clicks into place. Tug firmly on
the switch to make sure it is properly
Rocker and Paddle Switch seated.
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ICU per- Datalink Activity
forms an ignition sequence. The electronically driven
gauges sweep from zero to full scale and then back 1. If the alert message "NO DATA" is displayed,
to zero. The parking brake, low air pressure, high check the J1587 datalink wiring (twisted pairs).
coolant temperature, and low oil pressure warning/ 2. Verify that all ECUs are connected.
indicator lights also activate for approximately three
seconds. 3. Verify that the ECU J1587+ is connected to the
datalink J1587+ and that ECU J1587– is con-
NOTE: The battery voltage, primary air, and nected to datalink J1587–.
secondary air gauges are not electronically
driven and do not sweep. Gauges
System Fault Analysis Gauge Does Not Sweep
The ICU indicates active fault codes by displaying a NOTE: This section applies only to electronic
three-letter code, which is an abbreviation for the gauges; the air gauges and voltmeter do not
system with the fault. sweep.
For lists of MIDs, PIDs, SIDs, and FMIs, see Specifi- If a particular gauge does not sweep during the igni-
cations, 400. For more information on these code tion sequence, there is a problem either with the
groups and how to read them, see "Fault Codes" in gauge or the ICU.
this subject. 1. Turn the gauge counterclockwise and remove it
To correct an active fault, see the following sources: from the ICU housing.
• Engine ECM (MID 128)—use the engine 2. Install a gauge known to be good and repeat the
manufacturer’s literature. ignition sequence.
• ABS ECU (MID 136)—see Section 42.00, 3. If the test gauge sweeps full scale and back to
Subject 300, or use the antilock brake system zero, replace the original gauge with a new one.
manufacturer’s literature. For replacement instructions, see Subject 110.
• ICU (MID 140)—this section. 4. If the test gauge does not sweep, replace the
ICU. For replacement instructions, see Sub-
• DLU (MID 179)—see Section 54.05. ject 100.
IMPORTANT: To begin troubleshooting active NOTE: If the ICU has failed, replace the com-
fault codes, do not turn the ignition switch OFF plete ICU housing. Remove all gauges, the
and then ON. It is not uncommon for a fault to message center bezel, and the panel. Install
these parts in the new ICU housing.
Gauge Does Sweep Check the circuits that supply input signals to the
ICU. These lights are activated by either a 12-volt
If a gauge malfunctions but sweeps during the igni- power input or a ground input.
tion sequence, the ICU is not at fault.
NOTE: Use the technician diagnostic routine
1. Check the circuits that supply input signals to the (TDR) provided with ServicePro to help deter-
ICU. mine the cause of the problem.
2. Check the engine ECM programming.
NOTE: Use the technician diagnostic routine Buzzer
(TDR), provided with ServicePro, to help deter- Buzzer Does Not Operate
mine the cause of the problem.
If the buzzer does not activate during the ignition se-
Warning/Indicator Lights quence, either the buzzer or the ICU is malfunction-
ing. The buzzer is mounted behind the tachometer.
Light Does Not Illuminate 1. Install a buzzer known to be good and repeat the
The parking brake, low air pressure, high coolant ignition sequence.
temperature, and low oil pressure warning/indicator 2. If the test buzzer functions, replace the original
lights should illuminate during the ignition sequence. buzzer with a new one. For replacement instruc-
IMPORTANT: The following lights do not illumi- tions, see Subject 130.
nate during the ignition sequence: If the test buzzer does not function, replace the
ICU. For replacement instructions, see Sub-
A. ENG PROT indicator light input WL002
ject 100.
B. CHK ENG indicator light input WL003
Buzzer Does Operate
C. STOP ENG indicator light input WL007 (used on
Cummins engines only) If the buzzer operates during the ignition sequence
but does not work properly for another function, there
D. TRAC ABS indicator light input WL011 is a problem with ICU input circuits.
If a warning/indicator light other than those listed 1. Check the circuits that supply input signals to the
above does not illuminate during the ignition se- ICU.
quence, either the light bulb is bad or the ICU is mal- 2. Check the ECU programming corresponding to
functioning. Replace the light bulb with a test bulb the buzzer function.
known to be good and repeat the ignition sequence.
1. Remove the message center bezel and replace Dash Driver Display Screen
the bulb with a test bulb. Use the bulb replace-
ment tool provided. Screen Does Not Activate
2. If the test bulb lights, replace the original bulb If the dash driver display screen does not activate
with a new one. For replacement instructions, during the ignition sequence, either the display
see Subject 120. screen itself or the ICU is malfunctioning. The dash
driver display screen is mounted behind the message
If the test bulb does not light, replace the ICU.
center bezel.
For replacement instructions, see Subject 100.
1. Install a dash driver display screen known to be
Light Illuminates good and repeat the ignition sequence.
If a warning/indicator light malfunctions but illumi- 2. If the test screen functions, replace the original
nates during the ignition sequence, the ICU is not at dash driver display screen with a new one. For
fault. replacement instructions, see Subject 140.
If the test screen does not function, replace the 2.1 Check the 12-volt battery circuit: pin D14
ICU. For replacement instructions, see Sub- and wire 437.
ject 100.
2.2 Check the 12-volt ignition circuit: pin D15
Screen Does Activate and wire 437A.
If the dash driver display screen operates during the 2.3 Check the ground circuit: pin D13 and
ignition sequence, but the odometer does not display wire GND1.
properly, the ICU is faulty. 3. Troubleshoot and repair any of the above circuits
that shows a malfunction.
ICU Small Gauges If all the circuits above are functioning, replace
The oil pressure, coolant temperature, oil tempera- the ICU. For replacement instructions, see Sub-
ture, and turbo air pressure gauges are driven elec- ject 100.
tronically by the ICU using data inputs from the en-
gine ECM. The ICU receives digital data from the Pyrometer
engine ECM via the J1587 datalink.
The pyrometer is electronically driven by the ICU.
1. To determine whether the fault lies in the ICU or The pyrometer input circuit to the ICU contains a
the gauge input circuits, use the "Gauges" proce- thermocouple mounted on the turbocharger exhaust
dure above. port and a thermocouple amplifier module (TAM).
2. If the problem is found to be in the ICU, replace The thermocouple senses the exhaust temperature
the ICU. For replacement instructions, see Sub- and sends a small voltage signal to the TAM. The
ject 100. TAM amplifies this voltage signal by a factor of 100
If the problem is found to be elsewhere, use Ser- (typically 0 to 8 Vdc) and sends it on to the ICU. The
viceLink, or the engine manufacturer’s diagnostic ICU receives the analog voltage signal from the TAM
software tool, and determine if there is an active and converts it to the digital signal that drives the
engine ECM fault code related to the problem. pyrometer.
3. If an active fault code is displayed, follow the en- 1. To determine whether the fault lies in the ICU or
gine manufacturer’s instructions to correct the the gauge input circuits, use the "Gauges" proce-
problem. dure above.
If no active fault code is displayed, check the 2. If the problem is found to be in the ICU, replace
datalink connection from the engine ECM to the the ICU. For replacement instructions, see Sub-
ICU. ject 100.
4. Check the datalink for cross-wired connections If the problem is found to be in the gauge input
from all ECUs. circuits, check for 12 Vdc of ignition power at the
vehicle side connector to the TAM (circuit 218).
The TAM is located just above the right-hand
Voltmeter wheel well. Repair a malfunctioning circuit if nec-
The voltmeter is driven by the voltage input to the essary.
ICU. The voltmeter should function with the ignition 3. Warm up the engine fully so that the thermo-
switch in the ON position. couple reaches operating temperature. Then shut
1. Replace a problem gauge with a test gauge down the engine and turn the ignition back on.
known to be good and turn the ignition ON. NOTE: Do not measure voltage using chassis
2. If the test gauge indicates 11 to 14 volts, replace ground as a reference.
the original gauge with a new one.
4. Check the voltage output signal of the TAM.
If the test gauge indicates lower than 11 volts or
Example: At 300°F (150°C) = 5.14 Vdc (accept-
higher than 14 volts, check input voltages to the
able); at 480°F (250°C) = 9.16 Vdc (unaccept-
ICU as follows:
able).
2. If the problem is found to be in the ICU, replace 4.2 Check for continuity between wire 43G
the ICU. For replacement instructions, see Sub- and pin B4.
ject 100.
If the problem is found to be in the gauge input Fuel Level Gauge Diagnosis
circuits, check the resistance of the rear axle The fuel level gauge is controlled by the ICU using a
temperature sensors. The resistance between variable resistance input from the fuel level sending
the two sensor pins is typically 5250 ohms to unit that is located in the fuel tank. The fuel level
172 ohms. Replace the sensor if necessary. sending unit resistance varies linearly from 31±2Ω
Examples: At 32°F (0°C) = 5250 ohms; at 77°F with a full tank to 247±3Ω when empty.
(25°C) = 5000 ohms. If the ICU3 is measuring a resistance greater than
3. Check the continuity of the circuits from the 284Ω between circuit 47 and ground, a fault will be
forward-rear drive axle sensors to the ICU con- set for fuel level circuit open. If the ICU3 is measur-
nector. Repair a malfunctioning circuit if neces- ing less than 23.5Ω between circuit 47 and ground, a
sary. fault will be set for fuel level circuit shorted low. Ser-
viceLink may be used to monitor for these faults. The
3.1 Check for continuity between wire 42 and gauge will read empty until the measurement from
pin A10. the sensor is between 284Ω and 23.5Ω. Refer to
3.2 Check for continuity between wire 42G Table 1 for the fuel level diagnostic procedure.
and pin A11. NOTE: If the fuel level sensor is below the mini-
4. Check the continuity of the circuits from the rear- mum resistance (short to ground) or above the
most drive axle sensors to the ICU connector. maximum (open), the fuel gauge will read
Repair a malfunctioning circuit if necessary. empty. Shorting the fuel sensor wires will not
4.1 Check for continuity between wire 43 and drive the gauge to full scale.
pin B2.
05/06/2010 f545654
Slowly move the float arm from full to empty.
Fig. 1, Testing the Fuel Level Sending Unit
Fault Codes
Since the ICU gathers information via the J1587
datalink, any error message or warning displayed by
the ICU can indicate one of two things: a fault in the
IMPORTANT: The level II ICU is also known (on shows PIDs 98 through 127. Table 7 lists PIDs 154
ServiceLink) as the ICU2L. through 183. PIDs 184 through 253 are shown in
Table 8.
The instrumentation control unit, level II (level II ICU)
has only one microprocessor, on the left. The two The Engine SIDs are found in Table 9, Table 10,
connectors are pink. Connector #1 has 24 pins, num- and Table 11.
bered A1 through A12, and B1 through B12. Connec- The AntiLock Braking SIDs are found in Table 12,
tor #2 has 32 pins, numbered C1 through C16, and
Table 13, and Table 14.
D1 through D16. Table 1 and Table 2 show the de-
scription and wire numbers of the connectors. Table 15 shows the ACPU SIDs.
See Fig. 1 for a schematic of the wiring and pinout Table 16 lists the VORAD SIDs.
connections for the level II ICU (ICU2L).
Generic SIDs are found in Table 17, Table 18, and
Table 3 lists the Message Identifiers (MIDs). Refer to Table 19.
Table 4 for Parameter Identifiers (PIDs) 51 through
63. Table 5 shows PIDs 64 through 97 and Table 6 Table 20 lists the Failure Mode Identifiers (FMIs).
5 4
3
9 11 3
10
4
3
5
7 2
09/30/96 f601220
1. Torx-head Screw, Tweeter Grille 5. Tweeter Speaker 9. Door (inside view)
2. Tweeter Grille 6. Midrange Grille 10. Capscrew, Tweeter
3. Capscrew, Tweeter Bracket 7. Torx-head Screw, Midrange 11. Weldnut, Door Bolt
4. Tweeter Bracket 8. Midrange Speaker