AMIGURUMI PATTERN – JANE LANE by CreativeChaosofMargaux

Relive the ‘90s with your own version of a button-eyed Jane Lane from Daria. With the indicated yarn
and hook size, you can make about an 11.5 inch tall doll.

The pattern includes instructions on how to make her hair and how to use wire for the legs to make the
legs straighter.

MATERIALS
• acrylic yarns, 4 ply (Red Heart Super Saver in Black, Aran, White, Burgundy, Charcoal)
• 2mm crochet hook
• 15mm buttons for the eyes
• fiberfill
• a pair of scissors
• tapestry needle for sewing the eyes
• lighter yarn (to sew the eyes, eyebrows, and the nose)
• metal comb or brush for brushing the hair
• Optional: about 18 inches of 1mm or 16 gauge aluminum wire for the legs (or any bendable wire)
• Pliers for bending the wires

ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain dec = decrease
st =stitch inc = increase
sl st = slip stitch scbl = single crochet in back loop only
sc = single crochet (..) = repeat the space in brackets the given number of times
rep = repeat [..] = total number of stitches

Add stuffing as you go up higher in the rows especially when making the shoes and legs. When you stuff
the shoes and legs, make sure that the wire (if you will be using one), is at the center and surrounded
with the filling.

LEG ARMATURE

Skip this part if you will not be using wire and proceed to making the
shoes. The wire does not help make the doll stand by itself but it will
keep the legs straighter. Without wire, the legs will be floppy and bendy
which is ok if this is the look you are going for. If you have your own
technique of using wire for amigurumi, please feel free to use it if it is
easier for you. This is just how I use doll armature.

Bend the wire at the center.

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Curl both ends into a spiral several times, making sure that the tips are
curled tightly so they will not be poking out of the stitches, and leave
about 6.5 inches of the legs straight. There is no need to curl too tightly
afterwards, just leave enough space for your hook (or tapestry needle)
to go through the spaces between some of the spirals later on. You will
be securing the wire in the inner part of the shoe later on with yarn.

If you find that the wire is longer than the number of rows later on, this
ok since the wire will be covered by the body.

Bend the wire forward where the spiral ends. Do this to both ends.
These will be the feet.

Set aside and start making the boots.

BOOTS (Make 2)
Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring [6] (do not cut the short tail end. Leave
it exposed because you will use this to secure the wire inside the
shoes)
R2: inc 6x [12]
R3: (sc in the next st, inc) rep 6x [18]
R4: (sc in the next 2 st, inc) rep 6x [24]
R5: scbl in all 24 st [24]
R6: sc in all 24 st [24]
R7: sc in the next 6 st, dec 6x, sc in the next 6 st [18]

Insert one spiral wire foot into the shoe. Make sure that the front tip of
the curl is pointing towards the front of the shoe. Lay it flat inside the
shoe.

Use the short, starting tail of the yarn to wind in and out of the wire and
in and out of the base of the shoe. Do this 2-4 times, just enough to
secure the wire to the shoe. Add stuffing and continue to work on the
shoe.

R8: sc in the next 3 st, dec 6x, sc in the next 3 st [12]

R9 – R11: sc in all 12 st [12]
R12: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) rep 3x [15]
R13-R16: sc in the next 15 st [15]
R17: (scfl in the next 4 st, inc) rep 3x [18]
R18: sc in all 18 st [18]
R19: sl st in all 18 st [18]

Cut and weave in the ends. Continue to leg.

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LEGS
Roll down the last 2 rows of the boot cuff to expose the bl of R16. With
the new yarn color,
R20: sl st into the bl of R16 (start at the back), (sc in the next 2 st, skip,
sc in the next st, skip) rep 3x [9]
R21 – R34: sc in all 9 st [9]

Cut and weave in the ends.

Work on the other leg.

Once both legs are done, make sure that they are not too far apart. To
get them to be nearer each other, pull the center of the exposed wire
upwards until you make it almost pointy, and the inner sides of the last
row of each legs are almost touching.

Connect the legs to continue with the body.

Slst into the inner sides of the last row of the legs. If you are not using
wire, make sure that the toes are pointing forward when you connect
the legs.

Continue to R35.

BODY
R35: (sc all the way around both legs) [18]
R36-R46: sc in all 18 st [18]
R47: (sc in the next st, dec) rep 6x [12]

Continue to head.

HEAD
R48: inc 12x [24]
R49: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) rep 6x [30]
R50: (sc in the next 2 st, inc, sc in the next 2 st) rep 6x [36]
R51: sc in all 36 st [36]
R52: (sc in the next 5 st, inc) rep 6x [42]
R53: sc in all 42 st [42]
R54: (sc in the next 3 st, inc, sc in the next 3 st) rep 6x [48]
R55: (sc in the next 7 st, inc) rep 6x [54]
R56-R60: sc in all 54 st [54]
R61: (sc in the next 7 st, dec) rep 6x [48]
R62-R63: sc in all 48 st [48]
R64: (sc in the next 6 st, dec) rep 6x [42]
R65: (sc in the next 5 st, dec) rep 6x [36]
R66: (sc in the next 4 st, dec) rep 6x [30]
R67: (sc in the next 3 st, dec) rep 6x [24]
R68: dec, rep 12x [12]
R69: dec, rep 6x [6]
Close off. Fasten off and weave in the end.

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BOOT LACES
Wind yarn around the stitches and in each row on the front center of the
boots.

SHORTS
Work with the doll upside down as you work the rows going up to the
hem, towards the direction of the feet. Start at the back center, in R39
posts. Because the rows are in spiral, the post you started at and the
post that you will end at will not meet. To resolve this, sc the last st in
diagonal. Continue with the rows.

R1: sc in all 18 st [18]

R2: (sc in the next 2 st, inc) rep 6x [24]
R3: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) rep 6x [30]
R4: (sc in the next 4 st, inc) rep 6x [36]
R5: (sc in the next 5 st, inc) rep 6x [42]
R6-R9: sc in all 42 st [42]

After the last st of R9, split the shorts into two parts by going through
between the legs with the hook and doing an sl st into the front center.

Cut yarn and leave about a 3-inch tail end and pull through yarn
completely. Then insert the yarn into the front center of R7 of the
shorts.

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Pull tightly to make an indentation in the crotch area. Knot and weave in
the ends of the tail end.

FACE
Sew the eyes symmetrically on the head. I used a lighter, thinner yarn.
Sew the eyebrows and the stitched nose. In case thinner yarn is not
available but preferred, separate 2 ply from yarn and use that on the
face. Use red or burgundy yarn for the lips.

COLLAR
In R47 posts of the body, sc in each st [12]

HANDS (make 2) (no need to stuff)

Round 1: make a magic ring and do 4 sc [4]
R2-R9: sc in all 4 st [4]

SLEEVES
R10: sc in the next 2 st, inc, sc in the next st [5]
R11-R19: sc in all 5 st [5]

Leave a long tail end to connect to each side of the body.

CUFFS
Start at the R10 posts with the arm upside down (hands pointing up)
R1: sc in the next 2 st, inc, sc in the next 2 st [6]
R2: sc in all 6 st [6]
Cut and weave in tail ends.

JACKET
Ch21, turn
R1-R9: sc in all 20 st [20], turn, ch1
R10: sc, inc, sc in the next 18 st, inc, sc [24], turn, ch1
R11: sc in all 24 st [24], turn, ch1
R12: sc, inc, sc in the next 20 st, inc, sc [26], turn, ch1
R13: sc in all 26 st [26], turn, ch1
R14: sc, inc, sc in the next 22 st, inc, sc [28]
R15: sc, inc, sc in the next 24 st, inc, sc [30]

Cut and leave a tail end to use for attaching the jacket onto the doll.

Push the jacket up the body a little bit until the last row reaches the
lower part of the face. Fold both the corners of the top of the jacket

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down to make a collar and fold the sides to make the lapels.

Attach the jacket to the doll. Attach the arms to each side of the jacket
directly under the collar and into R46 of the body for a more secure
connection.

Sew the lapels flat on each side to keep them in place.

SKULL CAP
This is where you will attach the strands of the hair. Use the same color
as the hair so that the bald spots will not be obvious. Measure the cap
against the head from time to time starting on R8 to ensure a proper fit.
Increase or decrease a couple of stitches if the cap is too loose or tight.
Or manually stretch the cap gently if it is a little tight.

R1: 6 sc into a magic ring [6]

R2: inc 6x [12]
R3: inc 12x [24]
R4: (sc in the next 3 st, inc in the next st) rep 6x [30]
R5: (sc in the next 2 st, inc, sc in the next 2 st) rep 6x [36]
R6: (sc in the next 5 st, inc in the next st) rep 6x [42]
R7: (sc in the next 3 st, inc, sc in the next 3 st) rep 6x [48]
R8-R10: sc in all 48 st [48]

Leave a tail end to use to attach onto the head later on.

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HAIR
Cut several strands into equal strips of about 10 inches in length. (Wind
yarn several times around a book and cut one end.)

Insert hook into a stitch of the skullcap, pull center of the strand through
to make a loop, then pull both ends of the strand through the loop and
pull tight.

Attach strands all the way around all rows and sts. Make sure that the
cap is fully covered. Make sure that all the rows on the front and sides
are full. The hair will thin out and shorten once brushed.

Comb through the strands gently, starting at the ends to separate the
ply. Do this in sections. Continue combing until you reach the top,
almost to where the knots are. Some yarn fibers and fluff will be caught
in the comb and this is all right.

Use the fibers that were combed out as additional stuffing for future
projects to avoid waste.

Comb the entire hair until all the ply have separated and knots have
been removed and hair is fluffy.

Attach the wig to the head, part on one side and style and trim as
preferred.

Optional: Add embellishments like an earring or a piercing.

I would love to see your creations! Post your dolls and tag me in IG. If you have comments and
suggestions, please feel free to contact me. Feedback in my shop would help, too! Be gentle, please J

IG: @creativechaosofmargaux
Etsy: CreativeChaosArts
Email: [email protected]
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