LUXURY BRAND MANAGEMENT - Gcu
LUXURY BRAND MANAGEMENT - Gcu
LUXURY BRAND MANAGEMENT - Gcu
“LUXURY BRAND
MANAGEMENT”
Hugo Boss Corporate Strategy
BY SHEETAL PRIYA VERMA
5/4/2019
Acknowledgement
At the outset, it is my pleasure to convey my sincere thanks to his Excellency Dr. Joseph V. G,
Garden City University and Honorary Consul for the Republic of Maldives in Bangalore, for
having given me an opportunity to study in this Institution.
I am also extremely happy to extend thanks to Prof. Sibi Shaji, Principal, Garden City
College of Science and Management Studies, for having supported in preparing the project
report.
I feel it is my privilege to acknowledge the support extended by Dr. Sarit Kumar, Dean,
School of Commerce and Management Studies, Garden City University, Bangalore - 49.
I take immense pleasure to pay thanks to Dr. Thomson Thomas, Vice Principal, Garden City
College of Science and Management Studies, Bangalore and HOD, Department of Commerce
and Management Studies, for having been spirit in preparing the project.
It is my concern to thank my project guide Ms. Shilpa for having given necessary guidance
in preparing the project report.
Last but not the least, I remain indebted to my beloved parents who supported in all respects
in preparing this project report and also all my friends who directly or indirectly helped me
to prepare this report.
ABSTRACT
INTRODUCTION
CONCLUSIONS
CERTIFICATE BY THE GUIDE
I hereby certify that Ms. Sheetal Priya Verma has prepared a project report titled
“LUXURY BRAND MANAGEMENT- Hugo Boss corporate strategy” under my guidance.
She has attended the required guidance sessions held.
Place: Bangalore
Tables and Figures Index
Tables:
Figures:
This study aims to indirectly investigate some possible answers presenting Hugo Boss luxury
brand strategy at a corporate level.
Introduction
Societies evolve along with fashion. Consumers now require more customized
products than in the past and it has become more difficult to meet their expectations.
The luxury fashion industry bloomed in the eighties and is now facing unfavorable
conditions. Positive results start coming from countries like India and China which
are part of the BRIC. These countries are developing very quickly and consumer
needs are characterized by different motivations in comparison with other developed
countries. Focusing on Western luxury fashion companies, we observe the importance
to differentiate in order to preserve growth. More often, these companies are called to
decide on a tradeoff between differentiation and the need to boost their core values to
enhance customer loyalty. Indeed, it is becoming more a matter of line extension
versus brand name and luxury fashion companies must not forget how the latter is
their most critical success factor.
Companies operating in the fashion system face a product life cycle whose
length is shorter in comparison with other industries. In 2006, Kotler and Keller
underlined how fads’ life cycles are shorter than fashion’s and how fashion’s is
shorter than basic products’. The implementation of changes in fashion are usually
related to seasonal motives and more often product life cycle is modeled by “Planned
Obsolescence” which pushes firms to control their product turnover. Nowadays, it’s
not uncommon to notice how High Street stores propose a new collection on a
monthly basis. The total look collapsed and fast fashion is increasingly assuming
importance on a global scene.
In 2003, Silverstein and Fiske estimated the luxury market size at $350bn per year
with an annual growth rate of 10%. At the time, Tilley (2001) had defined the luxury
market as the one with the fastest growth rate all over the world. This is consistent
with people’s desire to show off which fosters the demand for goods with status-
conferring characteristics (Ziccardi, D. (2001); Echikson, W. (1995)). Therefore, in
comparison with other goods presenting comparable functions, luxury goods are able
to charge a price premium (Bagwell, I. & Bernheim, B. (1996); Mc Kinsey
Corporation (1990)). It is worth explaining what luxury means in order to better
define which industry this case study is targeting. Luxury specialists have attempted
to give a clear definition of what a luxury brand is, but this is not an easy task
(Kapferer, J. N. (1997a)). “Luxus” is the Latinism for “indulgence of senses,
regardless of cost”. Luxury goods consumption reflects the current cultural values
rooted in our society where ostentation is broadly accepted as a must (Phau, I. &
Prendergast, G. (1998)). The “Rarity Principle” (Dubois, B. & Paternault, C. (1995);
Mason, R. M. (1981)) suggests that when everybody is able to purchase a specific
brand, the luxury component is eroded. Considering this assumption, Hugo Boss can
be classified as a luxury brand since not everybody can afford its products.
Salvo Testa, expert in Fashion & Design lifestyle Management at the Bocconi
University, classifies four pure competitive models in the luxury fashion industry.
Tab. 1 – Competitive Models in Luxury Fashion Industry
Hugo Boss fits best under the “Premium Brand”. Indeed, customers perceive the
German brand as a distributor of male-oriented products, whose quality is mirrored in
the premium price. However, as time passes, Hugo Boss tends to show some features
typically owned by “Exclusive luxury and High fashion” brands. Its mission is
spreading and growing toward these last two models in order to enlarge the customer
base and evolve into the next level of the luxury scale.
Luxury fashion industry is increasing in complexity and the real challenge for
companies operating in this environment is currently acquiring the capabilities to
manage these challenges.
1.3 - Luxury Brand Management
In the first place, it is worth mentioning how luxury fashion firms take advantage of
the so-called country branding. Just like Versace reflects Mediterranean lifestyle,
Hugo Boss can brag that it’s made in Germany label is a symbol of innovativeness,
precision and elegance.
Due to outsourcing practices, today’s meaning of “Made in” has spread so far from its
original significance that it is now hard for customers to clearly defined what it is.
Multinationals’ operations, having subsidiaries all over the world, contribute to create
confusion regarding this issue which is usually solved by the paradigm “the product is
born in the factory but what the client buys is brand” (Klein, N. 2001).
Heritage: refers to the company’s long tradition and history of brand and its
importance relies on the fact that it cannot be imitated. People, place of origin,
products and legend are blended together to communicate a sense of uniqueness.
Style: refers to the importance of creating a code of stylistic rules through which
the brand can be easily identified and positioned in customers’ minds.
Retail & Distribution Channels: there are two kinds of retailers in the luxury and
fashion industry
Tab. 2 – Retailers Type in the Luxury Fashion Industry
It is the luxury firm that manages the The luxury firm does not control the
distribution channel thorough DOS or distribution channel but it cooperates with
franchise. retailers in the “Short Indirect Channel” and
with both the retailers in the “Long Indirect
Channel” to deliver its offer.
LONG SHORT
MANUFACTURER MANUFACTURER
MANUFACTURER
CONSUMER RETAILER
CONSUMER
Whilst in the “Short Indirect Channel” the company has to deal primarily with
“Concept stores” and “Department stores”. In the “Long Indirect Channel” the firm
mostly engages in operations with distributors in order to frame the distribution, price
and payment structure for a given area. Often, this second option regarding the
indirect channel is the only feasible way in a developing market since the company
expanding into new markets does not know much about them. This theory works
greatly in the early stages of international expansion when firms need to gather as
much information as possible before committing a lot of resources in developing
direct channels of distribution. Of course, evidence shows that there is no one best
way and often distribution channels are the result of different practices blended
together. Hugo Boss’ distribution policies are based on two points. The first one
explains how Hugo Boss chooses directly operated stores in order to develop a
globally consistent image of its brand. Indeed, de Chernatony and others (1995)
found that consumers have expectations to find the same brand core concept,
wherever they go.
Fig. 1 – Hugo Boss Number of DOS over Time
The second point refers to the strong-tie relationships with its trading partners in order
to maintain control on the quality of the offer delivered.
No walls
No brand
Personalizati
on
Communication:
According to Hamel and Prahalad (1994) there are two main kinds of
strategies to compete in a market. The alternative is between strategies that are
environment-led and strategies that are resource-led. The former reflects the
alternative “Fit” where firms take advantage of market opportunities adapting
resources to them. Instead, Resource-led strategies refer to stretch organizational
resources and competences in order to create value for money. Since firms are
generally limited in their resources in the early stages of their activity, they often start
to run their business according to the first approach. This was the case of Hugo Boss,
which was founded in 1923 in Metzingen, Germany and since the sixties it has built
its brand image around men’s suits. However, over time, the need for differentiation
pushes companies toward a resource-led approach. Today, indeed, the Germany based
premium-clothing manufacturer is known worldwide for its wide range of high-
quality products, which combine European design and fibers coming mainly from
Italy. In 2008 Hugo Boss’ annual sales amounted to €1,686 million.
A flat hierarchy constitutes the basis on which Hugo Boss corporate culture is
built. In this structure, the Supervisory Board and the Managing Board tightly
cooperate to strengthen the enterprise value. The latter reports to the former on
corporate strategy, business operations, and monitors changes in financial figures
through monthly reports. These regular reports together with regular meetings with
analysts, telephone conferences, ad-hoc announcements displayed on the company
website and annual shareholders’ meetings keep up with the need for transparency.
2.2 - Products
The product range implies different kinds of clothing: business, leisure, sport and
evening. The company’s offer also includes accessories, perfumes, eyewear and shoes
for both men and women. Following is a visual structure of Hugo Boss’ umbrella
strategy for its two main brands and Baldessarini:
Fig. 2 – Hugo Boss Brands
BOSS
BOSS BLACK BOSS ORANGE BOSS GREEN
SELECTION
“HUGO Hugo Boss” differs from “BOSS Hugo Boss” for its avant-garde and
projection toward trendsetters. Buyers of “HUGO Hugo Boss” are characterized by self-
confidence and the collection is open to both men and women. Instead, “BOSS Hugo
Boss” represents the core of the “Hugo Boss Group”. This label includes “BOSS
Selection”, “BOSS Black”, “BOSS Orange” and “BOSS Green”.
BOSS Selection: menswear and accessories, “BOSS Selection” combines the best
workmanship practices and materials on the market
BOSS Black: the focus is on men’s wear, women’s wear and accessories
characterized by elegance. Business suits are predominant within “BOSS Black”
BOSS Orange: offers casual men’s wear , women’s wear and accessories through
unusual colors, materials and details
BOSS Green: also called “Golf collection”. This provides menswear and
accessories focalized on sports
Since its establishment in 2004, the brand Baldessarini does not include Hugo
Boss in its name. However, it represents the top luxury fashion brand under the Hugo
Boss group. Its offer includes shoes, fragrances and various accessories.
Figure three shows how “Boss Black” leads the shares of sales within the
Hugo Boss group:
This is an important step towards worldwide brand consistency. Having this brand
architecture is essential to reduce risks related to brand positioning and allows Hugo Boss to
create a starting point on which to develop effective and efficient future strategic plans.
2.3 - Business Model
Value Proposition
Targeted segments of customers
Communication and Distribution channels
Value chain organization
Premium brand firms operating in the luxury industry are usually specialized in only
one product at the beginning of their business. Over time, product specialization is
substituted by product range extensions. Hugo Boss’ value proposition relies on a
differentiation strategy where high prices, high quality and strong brand image are the
main characteristics. Industries like the fashion one are characterized by cycles that
have to be anticipated through forecasts in order to provide the needed degree of
innovativeness.
Facing innovation in terms of strategic proposition means being able to
assess the value for the customer (Christensen C. (1997) ) . Through
innovation, fashion firms are fighting to survive the competition and it
seems that almost everybody has understood the importance of creating
new avenues towards success, but only some are able to do so. Those
companies are the ones capable of offering new ways to satisfy existing or
emerging needs through a competitive customer value proposition.
2.3.2 - Targeted Segments of Customers
According to Porter, positioning entails all those activities through which it is possible
to achieve sustainable competitive advantage and at the same time preserving what is
distinctive about a company (Porter, M. E. (2008)). By carrying out different activities
from those of competitors or delivering them in a different way, companies are able to
succeed by adding value to customers through a unique positioning. Hugo Boss as
“Premium Brand” results in being more accessible than “Exclusive luxury” brands
and “High fashion” brands, especially to younger customers.
It is the hedonistic consumption theory proposed by Groeppel and Bloch (1990) that
justifies luxury goods’ consumption. These kinds of goods exercise stimuli on
customers who show emotions that are forbidden to other categories of goods. The
following is an illustration of customer profiles in the luxury industry:
Tab. 6 – Customer Profiles in the Luxury Industry
Being supported by public relation offices throughout the world, the headquarters in
Metzingen coordinate Hugo Boss’ corporate communication. Transparency policies are
enforced through publications, reports and press conferences. Media planning activities
are tightly monitored by the parent firm which gives directions about what message has to
be transmitted to customers. Collaboration with lifestyle magazines, partnerships with
celebrities and sponsorships to enhance brand visibility allow to build a strong corporate
identity for the entire Hugo Boss group. On a more practical side, premium brands do not
usually carry out production and retailing while Hugo Boss does it. The German
company’s know-how covers both commercial and industrial aspects. This is another
characteristic that makes Hugo Boss a hybrid closer to “Exclusive luxury” and “High
fashion” brands in terms of unique offers delivered to customers. Hugo Boss’ distribution
and communication strategy is based on more than 1,300 monobrand shops spread all
over the world, which allow the company to develop an intimate interaction with its
customers. Retail identity is so built on four different elements: space planning,
merchandising, store design and visual communication. Each of them contributes to
create a consistent brand image. Notwithstanding, regional and market differences have to
be considered. An explanation of the different Hugo Boss distribution policies in its
competitive environment will be provided further on in the report.
2.3.4 - Value Chain
It was Porter in the Eighties who developed the value chain approach in order to
maximize activities that create values and minimize costs of unproductive operations.
This step of the value chain takes place in Metzingen (Germany), where the
headquarters are situated. Innovation is a key component for developing new
collections and Hugo Boss also utilizes machines under patent protection.
Seasonal change influences all the steps in a fashion company’s value chain and
therefore it is important to forecast international fashion trends for a multinational
operating in luxury goods such as Hugo Boss. During this step, goods are
improved within an existing brand and new ones are developed to widen the
offer’s range. Last but not least, prototypes and showroom expositions are an
integrant part of this process which is coordinated by utilizing modern software.
Material Procurement
This step involves procuring the fibers necessary for the production of Hugo
Boss’ products. The fibers come from over 1,000 suppliers with which Hugo
Boss also holds partnerships in order to deliver machines and develop new
manufacturing techniques. As timeliness is extremely important to Hugo Boss’
value chain, services are characterized by fast replenishments and ongoing
deliveries.
Manufacturing
After trading partners have placed their orders, Hugo Boss starts to manufacture
sample collections developed in the first step of the value chain. As the Germany-
based firm grew internationally, new production plants were opened over time
therefore delocalizing.
Sales and Distribution of Hugo Boss luxury goods are carried out through their
established distribution networks. As previously described in the “Communication
and Distribution Channels” of this study, it has to be reminded how independent
multi-brand stores have been substituted by the growth of vertically integrated
chains characterized by international networks of directly operated stores in
luxury.
Customer Service:
The value chain circle is completed by Hugo Boss’ attention to its customer
service. In the luxury fashion world, customer service historically meant
delivering something special to customers. From the moment of purchase, Hugo
Boss store operators are trained to gather feedback from their customers in order
to improve their service. In 2001, de Chernatony argued that employees play a
crucial role as brand builders. Indeed, Nueno and Quelch (1998) highlight the
importance of developing a strong customer relationship management cycle. In
other words, high levels of customer service impact positively on the point-of-
sales system as they bring more contact opportunities with the customers and
improve cross-product sales.
Taking a look at the fashion pipeline from yarn to distribution, we notice the
complexity of these mutual-influencing processes. Indeed, whilst the fiber industry is
characterized by capital/research intensive approaches, apparel making features labor
intensive propositions that go along with innovative perspectives brought from
upstream actors of the pipeline industry. Firms’ successes are tightly related to
excellence throughout the fashion industry pipeline. Innovation, cooperation and
flexibility are the three pillars on which multinationals like Hugo Boss build their
success:
Cooperation is a must. Cooperating firms can avoid duplication of effort
allowing some savings in terms of money. Thus, physical proximity qualifies
itself as an important factor boosting innovation. For instance, Hugo Boss
recently opened new offices in Ticino, Switzerland. This choice was driven by the
necessity of being located near an important fashion district, in this case the
Milan metropolitan area, yet exploiting Swiss legislation in order to get some
cost advantages. At Hugo Boss, cooperation means also strong-tie
relationships with its technology partners and its large network of key
suppliers in order to develop technological knowledge and competences able
to foster innovation in material quality.
In the following figure, the “X” axis represents the degree of adaptation which
is higher in “multi domestic and transnational” approaches than in “international and
global” ones. The “Y” axis refers to the degree of efficiency which is higher in
“global” and “transnational” strategies than in “international” and “multi domestic
ones”:
Fig. 8 – Adaptation & Efficiency Tradeoffs for Multinational Firms
GLOBAL TRANSNATIONAL
STRATEGY STRATEGY
INTERNATIONAL MULTIDOMESTIC
STRATEGY STRATEGY
This is consistent with the tightly monitored subsidiaries of the global
approach proposed by Bartlett and Ghoshal and it also reflects the centralized way in
which things are done in Germany. In fact, German tradition and cultural values have
played an important role in defining Hugo Boss style.
In the last two decades, the German brand focused its attention on spreading
its customer base. As reported in figure nine, more investments have been approved in
North America, Asia and Eastern Europe as the growth rate of these markets is higher
than Western Europe’s:
Fig. 9 – Hugo Boss Investments over Time
While sales in the US reached an increment of 12% in 2008, China is the main focus for
the future and the long-term aim is to increase to 50% the total shares of sales outside the
European continent according to what is described in the next figure. This mid-term target
is shown in the figure below:
In the end, it can be said that even though it is true that the majority of people
in the US buy brands incorporating mainly American values, new levels of openness
are influencing the traditional consumption patterns. The economic recession is just a
short-term trend overwhelmed by other socio-economic long-term trends such as the
ones described above. Multinational companies like Hugo Boss have to be proactive
in meeting these favorable trends towards the spread of luxury goods. Frequent
feedback and tight customer relationships are the means on which it is possible to
build one’s company brand heritage strength and earn higher margins through the sale
of high-quality and exclusive products.
‐ Hugo Boss decided to spread its production and some operations to the
Asian continent. In order to understand where the luxury fashion multinational is
moving, a brief description of the Chinese economy is presented.
The pioneers who firstly expanded their activities in East Asia were
looking for low-cost production advantages. None of them had thought
that this ongoing process would have led to an uncontrolled increase in
local consumption up to the point of fostering incredible growth levels for
emerging countries such as China.
o Display
o Brand consciousness vs. Brand awareness
Considering these two assumptions, there are five general aspects to look at in
order to be successful in the current Chinese luxury-clothing industry:
o Location is critical to build awareness: While advertising on lifestyle
magazines is essential in well-developed countries, this is not widely
diffused in the Chinese luxury market. Of course it will be an
important step in the next phases of the luxury market development,
but up to now, visibility through Hugo Boss directly operated stores is
the crucial mean to build brand awareness where missing.
o Brand image has to be built on cultural values and lifestyle: In order
to build a positive brand image which lasts over time, luxury
companies such as Hugo Boss are called to associate their products to
one country’s cultural values and lifestyle. Indeed, an effective way to
impact on the Chinese society is planning exhibitions and events able
to show the historical heritage of the luxury firm.
o Retailing is the mean to create brand experience: As competition
increases, the importance of retailing in the emerging Chinese luxury
market is highlighted. Well-planned retail experiences able to confer a
sense of uniqueness to the customer are the key to communicate
successful value propositions and build intimate long-term
relationships. For this reason, retail academies are a reality in emerging
countries in order to train employees towards CRM approaches in the
luxury fashion industry.
o DOS portfolio: Managing the number of directly operated stores
recently opened in China is a focal point for brand image
improvement. Luxury fashion firms need to have a clear understanding
of the development status of their strategies, their markets and their
customers’ needs. It is only when this analysis has been carried out that
firms can efficiently decide on the number of directly operated stores
which should be opened. Substantially, everything depends on a deep
cost-benefit analysis whose variables are moving in a high-change
context.
o Costumer profile: China is one of the few countries were men
consume more luxury goods than women. Consumers also tend to be
young with the majority of them in their thirties. Hugo Boss can
exploit this demographic trend as its image is mainly associated to
power and masculinity.
2.4.3 - Indian Horizons
Even though some of these problems still linger today, a great deal of work has been done
to address them. In 2006, Indian law established that the majority of stake can be gained
through collaboration with local businesses. This decision positively influenced the
amount of money invested by multinational firms in India. Indeed, they could finally
directly monitor their own distribution chain. It has been argued how important this is in
order to develop a solid and respectful brand image in countries that just went to know
what luxury is. Contemporaneously, taxes to export luxury goods in India were decreased
to a 12.5% value added tax. The combined effect of these two Indian laws paved the way
to increase foreign direct investments in Indian retail. A direct consequence has been the
indirect growth of Indian infrastructures. As communication channels improve, the
shopping malls’ networks get wider. Sharma (2007) highlighted how more than 600 malls
are going to open in the upcoming years in India. However, the shop-in-shop formula
could not always reveal itself as the best option to promote one’s company offer.
Independent brand stores can better answer the need for visibility and retail space than the
shop-in-shop alternative.
However, even though India is part of the so-called BRIC and multinationals
might be tempted to venture in this young luxury market, there are some crucial
factors that influenced Hugo Boss’ choice to slow down its expansion in India.
Currently, the abilities to deal with Indian bureaucracy, to take advantage of
partnerships with local businesses, to choose the right location and form to
distribute and make visible one’s own product offer to the Indian audience might
require extremely high investments to match an extremely complex market.
Therefore, timeliness to enter the Indian market appears as the main variable for
Hugo Boss. Indeed, even if foreign direct investments have been allowed since
2006, the German brand mainly holds distribution offices in India. Through this
strategy, Hugo Boss provides its offers to local retailers and accurately select
where its next directly operated store is going to be run. More information that is
crucial to succeed in such a young market can be collected in this way and second
mover advantages can be gained on the Indian infrastructures.
CHAPTER 3- APPLIED
STRATEGIC MODELS
3.2 - Hugo Boss SWOT Analysis
Strengths Weaknesses
- Worldwide presence - Low brand awareness in
- Wide range of products emerging markets
- Effective distribution - 2008 debt due to increases in
Channels investments
- Sustainable practices
Opportunities
- Expansion in - Strong brand image - Spread brand awareness
emerging markets recognition in established through advertising campaigns
- E-retailing Markets in emerging markets
- 330 directly operated - Increase logistic capacity
stores and over 1000 - Increase the number of shops
franchise stores
- Social networks & On-
line sales
- Internationalization
process in developing
Countries
- R&D activities
Threats - Differentiation focus - Future goals do not match
- Negative spillover
effects Strategy current brand image
- Brand image - Established markets - Consumers buying power
- Outsourced activities might be lowered by economic
inconsistencies
Recession
- Euro’s appreciation
- Overload of information
combined to less time at
customers’ disposal
Threats
Adam Smith said: “The world is flat”. Sectors are more interconnected than in the
Past and this translates into negative and positive externalities. Thus, when one sector
suffers a crisis, it is likely that it will be spread to other sectors too ending up in an
overall economic recession. Negative effects spill from one sector to another:
increases in the energy sector price affect agricultural products and therefore the
necessary raw materials for the textile industries. A vicious cycle is easily formed and
this finally results in significant private consumption drops. Moreover, the
differentiation focus strategy implemented by Hugo Boss pushes the company to
differentiate even more over time to broaden its customer base. This strategy reflects
Hugo Boss’ future goals but there is no alignment between them and the current brand
image in some countries. For instance, research has shown that Hugo Boss is still seen
mainly as a manly brand in Australia even though the corporate goal is to broaden
their brand image perception (Matthiesen, I. & Pau, I. (2005)). Lastly, there might be
the temptation for Hugo Boss to partly outsource its activities. This might imply some
cost advantages but at the same time it means a loss of control over activities that are
an integral part of the value chain and are the base for developing a competitive
advantage within a differentiation focus strategy.
Opportunities
While Western Europe is facing a difficult economic situation, other markets such as
Eastern Europe, India and China have been proved to be very dynamic during the past
years. In the interaction pattern between market growth and market share developed
by the Boston Consulting Group, these markets mostly occupy the position of
question marks. Indeed, their penetration is relatively recent and only who entered
those markets in the early nineties is starting to make profit and sees his or her
business as a little “Star” characterized by both high market growth and share. In
order to make this transition occur, multinational companies operating in the luxury
fashion industry are called to spend heavily in advertising in order to spread their
brand awareness. Once they will get to the “Star” stage, they will benefit of
experience curves which reduce costs over time. Not only the physical world is
changing but also the IT sector has merged with other globalization trends. Social
Networks qualify themselves as a potential mean to spread brand awareness and
enhance brand image. Nonetheless, e-retailing is spreading as a differentiation
alternative to integrate the physical retail experience for customers. Even though it is
more difficult to sell a luxury good on the web because they usually require major
emotional involvement, the great growth potential of e-retailing is pushing companies
towards planning and investing more on e-boutique environments and experiences.
Strengths
Hugo Boss has a wide product range: menswear, women’s wear, accessories,
fragrances, eyewear and shoes. If you have a good product, this does not
automatically imply success. Hugo Boss knows this and it built a strong and effective
distribution channel in its established markets and it is also aiming to develop its
distribution policies in emerging markets. The Germany-based company can count on
a worldwide presence with its 330 directly operated stores and over 1000 franchise
stores.
Weaknesses
The Euro’s appreciation negatively influenced European tourism in 2008 and more
generally in the last years. Looking at the following data, it is possible to observe
Euro exchange rates with countries where Hugo Boss operates from 2007 to 2008:
Fig. 15 – Euro Exchange Rates Over 2007/2008
Another weakness is related to the need for high investments in emerging countries
since there is spread brand consciousness but low brand awareness. In emerging
markets whoever investing more in visibility and advertising to create a strong brand
image in customers’ minds is going to take the lead in the long run. Indeed, brand
awareness influences purchase decisions by impacting on consumers’ perceptions
(Alba, J. et al. (1991)). Therefore, consumers behave according to the knowledge they
possess (Engel, J. F., Blackwell, R. D & Miniard, P. W. (1993)). As regards
established markets, it has been observed how customers are victims of information
overload and lower time at their disposal. This has to be a stimulus to deliver more
effective and efficient messages to customers.
Hugo Boss’s strong brand in established markets, low brand recognition is opposed in
emerging markets. Thus it is worth highlighting that Hugo Boss has to deal with
brand inconsistency problems as it is not easy to maintain the same worldwide image
for a multinational company. This is especially the case of luxury fashion firms whose
success is in good part based on their image. In order to overcome these issues,
communication plans have to be drawn so that customers are reached with effective
and efficient information. These plans are constantly supported by the latest
innovations in terms of processes and products. Indeed, research and development
activities play a proactive role in contributing to the company’s success in both
established and emerging markets.
OT – External Analysis
Economic crises are just temporary and cyclic events however their negative effect
can be mediated by the company’s strategies. In this sense, Hugo Boss aims to exploit
positive environmental trends. Most recently, one of these trends can be summarized
in the internalization processes which are based on the individuation of new customer
segments whose luxury needs are unfulfilled in emerging markets. Here, regulation
policies are sometimes hard to deal with because of the presence of information
asymmetry.
The SWOT analysis represents a valid tool to highlight important aspects on Hugo
Boss’s strategy. However, its results must be read together with the findings of
Porter’s Five Forces Model presented in the following section in order to lower the
degree of subjectivity.
3.1 - Porter’s Five Forces Model
The following analysis has been elaborated considering both established and
emerging luxury fashion markets in which Hugo Boss operates. That is because there
are important differences between the two in terms of customer needs. An analysis
focusing on the Chinese market’s growth considered as a symbol of emerging markets
is presented.
Established markets:
Emerging markets:
Established markets:
Barriers to entry in the luxury fashion industry are very high. High
investments throughout the value chain are needed in order to deliver the quality
customers expect. For example, designers’ contribution, raw materials and
distribution channel-related expenses can be prohibitive for the majority. Moreover, it
is hard to build a new strong brand image because of the already existing established
brands that can exploit their heritage and history to make the cut. For the
abovementioned reasons Hugo Boss does not have to fear new entrants in the
premium segment of the luxury fashion industry.
Emerging markets:
Barriers to entry are lower in established markets than in emerging markets. According to
the theory proposed by Maslow (1943), luxury-related needs enter developing countries
later than commodity-related needs. Barriers to entry are often and mainly linked to an
industry’s life stage. Being among the first luxury fashion companies to enter China in
1995, Hugo Boss is now gaining profits from its investments. At the time though, Hugo
Boss could not count on the same high barriers to entry characterizing the already
established markets where it runs its activities. The main reason is that Chinese
consumers had good brand consciousness and low brand awareness as previously
discussed in this study. In other words, whoever would have taken the first move in terms
of retail openings and aggressive advertising would have gained a first mover advantage
in a long-term perspective and would also have avoided the barriers to entry increasing
over time.
Established markets
Emerging markets
Threats of substitutes
Established markets
Substitution is a remote option for the majority of buyers of the Hugo Boss
brand. This is where the importance of brand image stems from: it enhances loyalty
and avoids threats of substitutes. These threats may present different prices
accordingly to the luxury competitive model they are in. An example of a substitute
with a higher price than Hugo Boss would be Gucci and one with a lower price would
be Diesel. In both cases customer’s stylish preferences and loyalty have to be taken
into account.
Emerging markets
Established markets
• Low industry growth
• High brand identity
• High product differentiation
• Diverse and numerous competitors
The luxury fashion industry is in its maturity life stage. New entrants do not
have space to successfully run their activities as fierce competition is already
established in the market. Incumbents’ brand image and identity are hardly imitable
for newcomers. Hugo Boss qualifies itself as one of the major players in the
“Premium” sector of the luxury fashion industry and it is striving to broaden its
customer base while building customers’ loyalty through customer relationship
management practices.
Emerging markets
• High industry growth
• Low brand identity
• Medium/low product differentiation
• Small number of competitors
“Baby” luxury markets present a lower degree of rivalry than established ones.
However, firms able to foresee high levels of growth are usually willing to commit a
higher percentage of resources in comparison to established markets in order to
prevent competition to enter later stages of development.
Industry Attractiveness
The bargaining power of suppliers is broadly the same in both established and
emerging markets and it specifically depends on one’s firm to be able to create a
differentiated network of partners to collaborate with. This allows companies
operating in the luxury fashion industry to get the necessary inputs to deliver
customers’ expected quality. At the same time, this is not easy to develop.
At the same time, switching costs and their related influence on the power of
buyers and buyers’ propensity towards substitutes are positively correlated to Hugo
Boss’s customers’ loyalty. This shows higher values in established markets than in
emerging ones.
In 2008, Hugo Boss reported financial results that confirmed its best year in its
history. However, restructuring activities (mostly concerning the Managing Board)
pushed “Net Income” toward a recession in comparison with fiscal year 2007. The
Hugo Boss financial analysis starts observing trends in the “Income Statement”, then
it focuses on the data reported within the “Balance Sheet” and it concludes with
comments regarding the “Cash Flow Statement”. Financial ratios are also considered
and justified as integration of the analysis.
Income Statement
“Group sales” were affected by a positive variation of 3% from 2007 incrementing to
€1,686.1. Since “Gross Profit” is determined by “Sales” minus “Cost of materials
including changes in inventories”, the elimination of some inventories lowered the
value of “Gross Profit”. However, “Gross Profit” 2008 is higher than in 2007. This is
so due to three main factors: incremented sales, the optimization of production
processes and last but not least the weakness of the U.S. dollar in respect to the Asian
market.
“Other net operating income and expenses” were characterized by two main
changes. The first one refers to the positive impact of the lease agreement termination
of the DOS on 5th Avenue in New York City. This change also implied a decrement
in “Depreciation/Amortization” from the previous year of operations.
The second important change refers to the negative impact of costs related to
the opening of 54 new DOS throughout the world. This also influenced “Personnel
expenses” which increased by 18% from 2007. The greater part of these expenses can
be attributed to “Extraordinary expenses” in the organizational structure and more
specifically related to changes in the Managing Board.
Due to changes in German law, 2008 taxes were calculated at 25% and not
27% as in 2007. This change impacted positively on the “Net income” that decreased
by a good 27% in comparison with the previous year. Consequently, both common
and preferred earnings per share declined in 2008.
Balance Sheet Structure
From the “2008 Balance Sheet” structure here presented it is possible to observe that total
assets increased in comparison to 2007. Although the “Assets” structure remained almost
unchanged, the same cannot be said for “Liabilities”. The visually noticeable changes are due
to the economic downturn (which impacted negatively on the equity market as explained later
on the “Return-on-equity” section of this study) combined with the new investments carried
out by Hugo Boss during 2008 through a five-year loan agreement with financial institutions.
Cash Flow Statement
The first ratio exhibited above, gives a measure of the shareholders’ residual claim on
the total amount of the company assets in the case of its liquidation. The higher the
shareholder equity ratio, the more they might receive from the company’s liquidation.
Within the Hugo Boss group, a significant percentage decrease has been observed
from 2007 to 2008 in terms of Equity-to-assets ratio. This negative variation is due to
both increases in the total assets’ value and decreases in the shareholders’ equity in
2008. The payment of a special dividend strongly impacted the equity ratio downturn
by lowering the share price and therefore the shareholders’ equity.
Debt to equity
The debt-to-equity ratio gives an understanding of the percentage of debt and equity
that has been used to finance the company’s assets. The huge difference registered in
2008 compared to 2007 is due to high investments in research and development,
logistic capacity and the effort to increase the number of own retail shops.
Fig. 16 – Hugo Boss Investments 2008
These investments required the company to open a line of credit to finance its
activities. The following figure shows how Hugo Boss capital expenditures have been
increasing over time:
Return on equity
This ratio reveals Hugo Boss’ profitability. In other words, it describes the profits
gained on each dollar invested by the German firm. The positive increase of ROE is
linked to the lower values in terms of “Net Income” and “Shareholders equity”
registered in 2008 in comparison with 2007. Actually, a positive increase of ROE due
to a decrease in the abovementioned values is only possible when the “Shareholders
equity” is lower than “Net Income”. That is what happened to Hugo Boss and the
following figure shows the drop in common and preferred share price performance
within the luxury fashion multinational in 2008:
Fig. 18 – Hugo Boss Share Price Performance
Since shareholders equity is linked to the share price performance, it is easy to
understand why the former’s value suffered a sharp decrease in 2008. The share price
performance emerging from the figure above can be generalized to all sectors. This is
related to the economic recession which sparked in 2007 in the United States.
Therefore, uncertainty and volatility on the equity market negatively influenced DAX
and MDAX
Internal Risks
Operational Risks
Organizational Risks
Considering all the differences between emerging and established markets, the
analysis shows the difficulties multinationals such as Hugo Boss face in planning
strategies aiming to achieve both local responsiveness and global efficiency. Indeed,
this result is even more complicated to achieve within the luxury fashion industry
because of the tight correlation between fashion and societal culture. As
multinationals are striving to increment their businesses through investments in
emerging countries, it is of crucial importance to understand environmental trends.
The formula “High price for high quality” combined with the Hugo Boss
brand heritage allows the company to be among the world leaders in its industry
where fierce competition characterizes the premium segment of the luxury fashion.
REFERENCES
(2001) “A model for strategically building brands”, Journal of Brand
Management.
“Observations: Undertaking the World of International Luxury Brands:
The “Dream Formula”, Journal of Advertising Research.
Google
Source: “Hugo Boss Annual Report 2008”
Source: “Hugo Boss Annual Press Conference Presentation 2009”