Hfe 47 Laboratory 0347 Diy Assembly en

model 0347
All Discrete Design Stereo Power Amplifier
DIY Assembly Kit
Version: 2012.03.29
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Table of contents
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Greeting ………………………………………………………………………… 3
1. Introduction …………………………………………………………………… 4
2. Features and specifications ………………………………………………… 9
3. Background information on components …………………………………… 16
4. Assembling the power supply system ……………………………………… 22
5. Assembling the amplifier PCB ……………………………………………… 29
6. Continue to check the wiring and signal system …………………………… 34
7. Adjustment and operation check …………………………………………… 37
8. Troubleshooting ……………………………………………………………… 40
Appendix A. Documentation …………………………………………………… 42
Appendix B. Schematic ………………………………………………………… 44
47 Treasure / model 0347: All Discrete Design Stereo Power Amplifier, DIY Assembly Kit
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Greeting
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Congratulations on your new purchase of the 47 Treasure kit!
Today, with the advent of electronic technology, the manufacturing process has brought
together the consumers and the producers. The economic activity that brings together the
producers and consumers is exemplified by television advertising which influence the
products we buy. It has made the world of consumption convenient and efficient. The
continuous advancement of technology has taken away from the consumer the
opportunity to understand building your own product. The joy from building your own
product provides an opportunity to explore technology through your own eyes
throughout the production process.
For audio equipment, especially music devices, it provides musical artists an opportunity to
showcase their emotions openly through audio. Therefore, it is the audio equipment which
provides this medium. Graphs and charts are tools that help measure sound but have little
to do with the actual quality of the sound ― that is, the music, which is after all the
objective. Music can become complex, but the reproduction of music does not have to be
complex. 47 Laboratory is set on pushing the limits of simplicity while achieving optimal
audio results. We believe that one of the major hurdles to overcome in bringing music
playback closer to reality is the ability to maintain the liveliness and the activity of the
music environment. This means that the audio components must be able to track the rise
and fall of the music signal with great precision. 47 Laboratory’s philosophy is the key to
restoring the music to its fullest potential. 47 Laboratory is that company and believe that
the audio equipment is the key in providing the optimum music experience by making it
simple.
“Only the simplest can accommodate the most complex.”
For those who purchased this kit, you will not regret the hours you invest in assembling
this kit. You will find a lot of joy, satisfaction and accomplishment. You will gain a lot of
experience during your assembling process. Instead of waiting eagerly for commercial
products, you will gain experience building this kit to enjoy your music. In comparison, you
will be certain to find your kit to be equal or superior to other products in the market. We
have received very great feedback and reviews of our products.
We very sincerely appreciate your support!
Thank you.
47 Treasure / 47 Laboratory Inc.
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1. Introduction
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1 – 1. Parts List
Please check off each of the following part items below that all pieces have been included
with the kit. If there are any missing or damaged parts, please contact your “47 Treasure”
distributor.
(1) Chassis
[ ] Pre-painted steel chassis (top plate) x1
[ ] Pre-painted aluminum chassis (bottom plate) x1
[ ] Transparent acrylic faceplate (with printing) x1
(2) Major components and wiring
[ ] RCA pin jack (2- pin) x1
[ ] Fuse 5A/125V (for 220-240V, 3A/250V) x1
[ ] Speaker fuse overcurrent protection (2A/250V Midget glass tube) x2
[ ] Loudspeaker overcurrent protection fuse holder x2

[ ] Speaker Terminal (Army type, Red/Black) x2 sets
[ ] AC inlet (3-pin, built-in fuse holder) x1
[ ] Operate / Mute switch (6-pin, toggle switch with screws) x1
[ ] Power switch (3-pin, toggle switch with screws) x1
[ ] Toroidal transformer (supplied with mounting screws and nuts) x1

[ ] Power cable (with ground terminal, 47 Lab cable) x1
[ ] Wire (Ø0.4mm and Ø0.65m, power line wire) x1 set
[ ] Insulating tube (white, black, red) x1 set
[ ] Silicone grease (to lower power transistor temperature)
(3) Screws and nuts

[ ] Binding head screw (Ø3x4mm) x4
┗━Power supply PCB, Fuse holder

[ ] Binding head screw (Ø3×6mm) x13
┗━LED PCB, Top plate, chassis

[ ] Binding head screw (Ø3×10mm) x8
┗━ power transistor amplifier board

[ ] Plastic spacer (Ø3×5mm) x4
┗━Support the amp Board in two places

[ ] Hexagon head nuts (Ø3×10mm) x4
┗━Used as a strut to secure the power supply board, and fuse holder.
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[ ] Long hexagonal nut (Ø3×60mm) x2
┗━Used for securing the top plate.

[ ] Black cap screw (Ø3×5mm,Hex) x4
┗━Used for installing the top plate from the top.

┗━ RCA pin Jack .

┗━ AC inlet, and acrylic plate.

[ ] Nut (Ø3mm) ×10
┗━AC inlet, RCA pin jack, and acrylic plate.

[ ] Cap nut and screw (Ø4mm) x3
┗━It is a 3-point support of the amp.

[ ] Spring washer (Ø3mm) x3
┗━ For installing the LED lighting board.

[ ] Jagged washer (Ø3mm) x1
┗━to ensure the chassis is grounded.

[ ] Terminal lug (Ø3mm) x1
┗━The ground terminal of AC inlet.

[ ] Flat washer (Ø3mm) x1
┗━The screws are for the AC inlet (a ground lug is on the opposite side).
(4) Power supply, lighting
　Components (excluding the amplifier) for power supply and lighting system.
[ ] Capacitor prevents sparking0.01μF,400V x1
[ ] Power supply PCB (with printing) x1
[ ] Rectifier diodes (Fast recovery) 200V, 6A x4
[ ] Electrolytic capacitors 2200μF, 25V x2
[ ] LED current limiting resistors 10kΩ, 1/2W x1
[ ] Lighting LEDs (white) x3
[ ] Lighting PCB (for LED) x3
(5) 2 sets of amplifier components (one for each channel)
The kit has two identical packages of amplifier components. You can use
interchangeably any one of the two packages to assemble the left channel or the
right channel, since the semiconductors in the two packages have the same
specifications. For further details, please refer to chapter 5. “Assembling the
Amplifier PCB”.
(6) Assembly kit manual
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During your assembly process, it is a recommended that you print out a schematics
diagram for reference. After you complete your kit, please keep this manual for
future reference.
1-2. Preparation
Please prepare the following items in advance
(1) Tools
- Soldering iron (30W), solder stand.
- Solder (Ø0.8~1.0mm, not less than 60% tin)
　┗━ We recommend KR-19 High Performance Resin Flux Cored Solder or

other similar solder.
- Desoldering tool (you need this tools to redo the solder)
- Philips Screwdriver (+)
- Hex wrenches (Ø1.3mm and Ø2.5mm)
- Wrenches (For the volume nuts, you can use the pliers instead)
- Nipper (small type)
- Pliers (small type or compact)
- Wire stripper (for stripping wires)
- Alignment tools (to turn a semi fixed VR resistor. You can use a small precision
screwdriver)
- Nut drivers (Is used for fixing the power transistor onto the chassis).
- Cotton swab or toothpick (Used for applying silicone grease)
- Instant adhesives (Used for the thermal coupling power transistors and the bias setting
transistors)
(2) Tester (multi-meter) and other instruments
The multi-meter is essential for the final check to ensure the proper operation of the
component values. Also it is important to monitor and measure the DC voltage.
If you have a low frequency signal generator and oscilloscope, you can test more
precisely; however, this is not particularly necessary and is optional.
1-3. Characteristics of a uniform component
Before we package and ship our components, we filter through and exclude any
substandard parts that do not meet the fixed standards. We do our best to match the
components to generate the best performance for the design.
1-4. Experience working with electronics
This kit is targeted for those have electronics experience. If you are inexperience with
soldering and electronic circuit twists, we recommend that you seek assistance with an
experienced electrician or hobbyist.
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Be cautious of electric shock around the power lines (AC100V, overseas AC240V)!! . If you
touch the power line via soldering, you will receive an electrical shock as the DC voltage is
approximately 20V.
1-5. Cautions – assembly process
For your own safety, please read this assembly manual carefully before you begin
assembling the amplifier. Please follow the instructions step by step for correct assembly
and operation. If there is a problem in the product, please contact “47 Treasure” distributor
in your region. There are many check points as you proceed through the assembly manual,
therefore we kindly ask that you carefully pay attention to those check points. Most of the
problems you will encounter can be resolved by paying attention to these detailed check
points. This kit is intended for you to build and enjoy. Please note that we are not responsible
for any accident, injury or damage during and the results of the assembly process.
1-6. Failure diagnosis and replacement parts
When there is a problem with the kit, “47 Treasure” technical supports is here for your
inquiries. Since this is an electronic product that is assembled by the customer, we cannot
provide a warranty like those for regular electronic products. Instead, we are providing
technical support to ensure your product functions properly. Throughout the instruction
booklet, there are check points where we ask you to ensure the installation is correct. Most
of the time, your problems can be resolved if you follow these check points closely. If the
reason for the problem is not resolved, contact the “47 Treasure” technical support. We can
check and fix the problem for a fee. To insure prompt processing, please enclose and sign a
PDF file “Request for Support” and place it inside the packaging along with the returned
product.
Please follow the instructions below:
Product : Safely package the product well to ensure minimal damage. Do not simply mail
the circuit board with all its components in an envelope. It is recommended but
optional to you that the item be insured and sent via registered mail with
tracking number.
Memo : Write your name, address, telephone number (day time phone no.)
and provide details about the problem or issue of your product.
Fee : Once the product is fixed, we will send you the product back upon receipt of full
payment of any applicable fees. The fee will include the repair, shipment and any
additional costs associated with the repair.
In addition, any replacement of damaged or broken parts caused by the customer during
the assembly process can be ordered from the 47 Treasure Distributors.
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1-7. Finished product
This is a kit product which requires assembly by you. For those who do not want to solder,
you may select to order the assembled finished product. All finished product are
assembled and tested before we will ship to you. For details, please contact your “47
Treasure” distributor.
1-8. Inquiry
Please email us your inquiries, comments, or feedback about our products. To help us
improve our products to serve you better, please email us at: [email protected]. All of your
information is kept confidential according to our Privacy Policy.
Please include the following information with your email:
(1) Model number (model 0347)
(2) Serial number (CD-ROM in the jacket).
(3) The name and contact details of your purchase
(4) Country and voltage (AC100V ~ 240V)
1-9. Products returned for service or update
Please refer to 1-6. “Failure diagnosis and replacement parts”.
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2. Features and specifications
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2-1. Features
- The amplifying components are all Japanese-made discrete components that have a
record of being used especially for audio. They have been sorted by characteristic for
each amp.
- We removed the global negative feedback (NFB) in order to eliminate the NFB problem
that results from the delay time of the negative feedback loop and the impurities in the
signal caused by the counter-electromotive force from the speakers.
- The voltage amplifier is the current-feedback type used in things like high-speed op-
amps. It consists of a push-pull output amplifier circuit in all stages, so it produces plenty
of gain as a power amp. We applied local negative feedback (minor loop) to improve the
characteristics of the amp, and produced a clear, vivid sound quality. It is characterized by
low noise and an audio resolution so high it will reverberate through a concert hall, as
well as a super high-speed slew rate to powerfully drive a speaker.
- The current amplifier in the final stage is not the common collector that has been seen in
the past, but a complementary Darlington that powerfully drives the load. With this we
have produced spacious, wide-reaching sound quality.
- The power supply, which is the source of energy for the power amp, employs a toroidal
transformer with a good amount of capacitance (120VA), and brings about a stable, clear
sound quality from low sound to high sound.
- Removing the regulated power supply circuits from things that might have limited the
sound quality, like regulators, will directly activate the final stage. This kit uses full-scale
positive and negative supply that can perform DC zero adjustment accurately.
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VCC
voltage gain amplifier ripple filter
local NFB
ZERO ADJUST OUTPUT

IDLE ADJUST
LINE INPUT Zobel filter
RFI LPF
(radio frequency interference)
emitter follower current mirror Sziklai pair

(complementary Darlington) VEE
- Equipping the amp with a fuse and mute switch will keep your speaker safe.
- There is no built in volume and selector in model 0347. 47 Treasure model 0447 was
designed with passive selector and volume control (no USB-DAC). If you want a passive
selector, volume and USB-DAC features, you should look at model 0547. Moreover, if you
want a preamplifier, you should look at model 0247 and model 0147A. For detail features
of 47 Treasure series, please refer to 47 Treasure products catalog.
2-2. Specifications
Power supply： AC100V-120V, 200-240V
Input terminal： RCA pin jack (unbalanced) ×1

with RFI filter (radio frequency interference filter)
Impedance： 50kΩ (fixed)
Input sensitivity： 0.775VRMS (30W, max output at 8Ω)

Residual noise: measured residual noise below the detection limit
Amplifier gain： approximately 31dB (35 times the voltage gain)
Frequency responses：5Hz～120kHz (within -3dB )
Output terminal： Speaker terminal (Amy terminal)
Maximum output ： 40W (4Ω) / 30W (8Ω)
DC output voltage： less than 10mV (DC zero adjustment function)
Size： W250 × H60 × D175mm
Weight： 2.7kg (without power cable)
Accessories： Power cable for AC inlet

PDF format assembly manual and technical information
(CD-ROM included)
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2-3. Overall configurations
The overall configuration follows the conventional analog audio amplifier design. The
rectifier converts the high voltage AC from the transformer into pulsed DC. The
smoothing capacitor acts like a reservoir and holds the peak voltage for the time between
peaks.
This amplifier is composed of the independent left and right channel PCB. The input
signals via the input selector and volume are amplified to a level of driving headphone
output and line preamplifier. This amplifier adopts the “current feedback” design instead
of the traditional voltage feedback using the op-amp.

Classical advantages of current feedback amplifier:
– Essential unlimited slew rate - gives very high full power bandwidth.
– Nearly gain bandwidth independence.
– Most CFB also provides a large output current drive capability.
– Application such as adder and high gain application are the ideal target application.
We also adopt the discrete amplifier design. All components are composed in a discrete
nature (no IC or op-amp). The discrete amplifier could potentially be more dynamic.
Discrete designs are generally considered superior as they use (usually) higher grade
components. Thus, the audible frequency range of this amplifier does not deform. There
is almost no variation in the wave form. The amplifier’s low noise floor and high resolution
means that you can hear the reverberations clearly. This amplifier has an ultra-high-speed
slew rate (several hundred to thousands times) which can powerfully drive any power
amplifier. The picture on the right (a time-axis scale is 500ns) shows the response
waveform of the amplifier output in the square wave of 500kHz of inputs at the time of
removing C10 = 22pF mentioned later and LPF (low pass filter) which consists of R10 =
10kΩ.
2-4. For each part of the circuit
Please understand the overview of the kit by reviewing the schematic diagram at the end
of the manual.
(1) Power supply (Transformer + Rectifier + Smoothing)
The AC power transformer is to step down the power voltage coming from the AC inlet.
The step downed AC voltage is rectified by 4 rectifier diodes. It is a positive/negative
power supply like ±22V which makes the middle point the grounding. There is no regulator
adopted but instead, 2 electrolytic capacitors C2/C3 with 2200µF is used for smoothing the
rectified DC voltage. The low-pass filter for the output stage is composed of C2/C3,
C16/C17 = 2200μF to remove the rippling. Furthermore, the low pass filter for the first
stage power amplifier was formed by C13/C15 = 220μF R25/R26 = 220Ω to remove the
rippling.
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(2) Removal of residual ripple in the first stage amplifier single push-pull
VCC VCC
Because the first stage of the amp has high sensitivity and is susceptible to ripple, in the
case of a single-ended stage we normally remove the remaining ripple ahead of time with
the active ripple filter, regulator, and constant-voltage circuit that supplies electricity to
the voltage amplification stage. On the other hand, with push-pull output, there is the
advantage that if you adjust it correctly, the residual positive and negative ripple
components will negate each other (becoming 1/hFE to be exact). Because of this, ripple bias bias
components are not included for output of the voltage amplifier stage. In the data sheet
of the op-amp, this may be indicated with a value called PSRR (power supply rejection
ratio in dB), and it means that the larger the number, the higher the ability to eliminate
residual ripple.
VEE VEE
It is often said that sound will change depending on the regulator, namely that the power
supply circuit has an effect on the sound quality and will change it. If there is no regulator,
the sound will be lively and clear, so for power amps with SEPP-form we normally just use
a power supply that is smoothed and rectified. Likewise, even if you don’t use the
regulator thoughtlessly, you can still make high-class amps using this kind of circuit
structure. You also won’t lose any of the sound’s lushness.
(3) CR low-pass filter (RFI filter ― Radio Frequency Interference)
At the beginning part of the amp, a signal passes through the LPF, which consists of
C10=22pF and R10=10kΩ. The cutoff frequency fC becomes
1
fc = ≈ 723kHz
2πCR
VOLUME
and any frequency above that is removed. By doing this, powerful waves from TV/radio
stations and high frequency noises (RFI: radio frequency interference) that are emitted
A50k
from home appliances and computers will be eliminated, so that the amp will not detect
or amplify them.
ATTENUATOR
R10 has one more important function. The synthetic load impedance Z of the first stage of
Z -> <- Z
the amp is, according to observation, about 47kΩ. Normally, before the input, we attach a
temporary volume potentiometer and turn down the volume. If we have done this, the
second side of the volume, that is, the signal source impedance, will become lower than
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several kΩ, and the common collector causes the apparent signal source impedance to
drop even lower. Then, the power supply circuit of VCC and VEE may become an oscillator
that has a time constant which is decided by the capacitance of the smoothing capacitor
and the inductance of the power transformer. This causes it to oscillate with the
infrasonic frequency (which slowly changes). This is also called “motorboating”. If one
channel changes, this will influence the other channel. Because of that, the diaphragm of
the left and right speaker will slowly make large movements in and out. In order to
prevent this, we need to insert an R10 resistor with a decent amount of resistance for the
input. Otherwise, the best way to turn down the volume is with a full-out fixed impedance
attenuator (Z=~50kΩ).
(4) Coupling capacitors in the signal path
There is only one coupling capacitor (C11 = 4.7μF) for removing the DC component in this
amp’s signal flow. This capacitor is in the first stage for input and has two purposes:
making it so that it won’t malfunction even if you connect devices including DC
components to the amp, and making it so that DC current doesn’t flow into the volume
and create a jarring noise. Because the first stage receives the signal with the common
collector, synthetic load impedance Z is measured as about 47kΩ. So, if we make the cut-
off low frequency (-3dB) 1Hz, we use the equation
1
C 11 = ≈ 3.38µF
2πfZ
to determine that about 4.7μF will be enough for C11. So use the cut-and-try method to
determine the constant of C11.
(5) The output stage
Output stage is not an operational amplifier (op-amp) with a negative feedback circuit of
the voltage follower. Instead we use a conventional emitter follower design with
transistors to achieve this configuration giving the amplifier a powerful driving ability.
The Sziklai pair (also known as a “compound transistor”) is a configuration of two bipolar
transistors similar to a Darlington pair. In contrast to the Darlington arrangement, the
Sziklai pair has one npn and one pnp transistor, and so it is sometimes called the
“complementary Darlington”. The configuration is named after its Hungarian born
inventor George C. Sziklai. If you want to explore more, you can visit Wikipedia.
In essence, a high gain super transistor is somewhat similar to a Darlington however,

there are some major differences. Unlike Darlington, there is some voltage gain with
Sziklais. Another unique feature is local negative feedback. The negative feedback
resistor R is shown as below. The Q11 and Q9, Q12 and Q10, are 2 β (hFE) which constitute a
super transistor multiplied by β behaving like a single transistor with a high current gain.
This means that the overall current gain is given by the gain of the first transistor
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multiplied by the gain of the second transistor as the current gains of the two transistors
multiply.
If two identical bipolar transistors are used to make a single Darlington device then the
overall current gain will be given as β2. In other words, a pair of bipolar transistors
combined together to make a Darlington transistor circuit that is nearly identical to a
single transistor except that the current gain is β2 instead of β acting like a big transistor,
and Darlington transistors with current gains of more than a thousand with maximum
collector currents of several amperes are available.
The output stage is a full complementary symmetric pairs of Sziklai with 4 transistors.
The individual bias circuit was devised. The VBE of Q9 and Q10 has a specific feature in
which it can maintain 0.6V. D8, D9, VR2 maintain bias for Q9 and Q10, furthermore, they
are thermal coupled with Q11 and Q12 to stable this bias.
The collector current of Q9 (or Q10) is the same as the base current of the final stage Q11
(or Q12). There is only several uA at a small or idle signal so there is a tendency for a flat
sound. Thus, R24 (R25) or a moderate increase in idle current and close to the behavior of
class A operation. If the resistor value is too low, it will increase the load and distort the
sound. We need to determine the resistance value to moderate the collector current.
If a global negative feedback (NFB) is applied from the final stage to the first stage, the
sound quality will be without liveliness and richness. The headphones have a dynamic
back electromotive force, therefore if this force returns back to the first stage, it will
cause distorted signal. Due to this limitation, global negative feedback is not used. In its
place, we adopt the local negative feedback in the first stage and final stage, respectively.
(6) Zobel filter
The Zobel filter comprised of C18 and R33 which has prevented a possibility that the
amplifier itself will oscillate by several MHz. Since the voice coil of the dynamic
headphone has an inductive component. As the higher the frequency becomes, the
higher the impedance. In order to maintain the amplifier at constant impedance, a filter is
used to get rid of the high frequency which is beyond the audible range of hearing.
Therefore, we can consider a Diplexer Low Pass Filter (LPF) / High Pass Filter (HPF)
namely Zobel filter. The same mechanism is the network of speakers where high
frequency components are terminated with a resistor R. Since the voice coil inductance L
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and nominal impedance R varies, the crossover frequency fc is set up higher than the
audible range.
Where C18 = 0.022μF, R32 = 10Ω
1
fc = ≈ 723kHz
2πCR
does not affect the nearby audible range.
(7) Operate / Mute switch
With this machine, the popping noise when you turn on the power will be brief. Even so,
in order to prevent the popping noise for the output, protection circuits that disconnect
the speaker until the output stabilizes with a relay switch or electronic switch are
normally used. Also, in cases where you temporarily get rid of the volume (Mute), you
need a switch. In this kit, we created these protection circuits with a simple manual toggle
switch, so that we would not make the circuits in the kit needlessly complicated. First flip
it down, then after you turn on the power, wait for a few seconds, then flip it up
(Operate). If you want to temporarily mute the output again, flip it down.
(8) Lighting
The indirect LED light which served as the pilot lamp of the power supply provides
lighting for the internal structure. The light allows us to see the internal components
through the transparent acrylics faceplate.
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3. Background Information on Components
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It is often said that sound will change depending on components, but there are times
when audio parts considered "high-end" have some peculiarities in sound quality, despite
trying to produce the best sound. It is probably best not to expect much from those kinds
of parts. Please use the parts included in this kit as they have been proven to present a
quality sound.
3 - 1. Resistors
All fixed resistors used in this kit are 1/2W (±1%) metal film resistors. Because there are 5
different color bands, please make sure to look at the resistor color-coding chart at the
end of the manual so as not to make a mistake. Before you install a part, it is
recommended that you use a multimeter to measure resistance. Furthermore, it does not
matter where you use the resistors that have the same resistance.
Units of electrical resistance are called Ω (Ohms). If there is a 4.7 on the circuit diagram,
this refers to 4.7Ω. k refers to kΩ (103, kilohm); and M refers to MΩ (106, megohm). For
variable and preset resistors, if it is followed by an A, then it refers to the A-curve
(logarithmic variation). If there is a B, then it indicates B-curve (linear variation). In the
case of variable resistors, ②～③ will short clockwise (CW: clockwise).
3 - 2. Capacitor (Condenser)
The square package without any indication of + or - is the non-polar film capacitor. It does
not matter which direction you install it in. If you do not install a polarized electrolytic
capacitor with the indicated polarity, not only will it be unable to work as intended, but
also the electrolytes will gasify and begin to expand, increasing the risk of it exploding.
For electrolytic and tantalum capacitors, the + side (the longer prong), must go with the
side where the DC voltage is higher, while the - side must go to the side where it is lower.
If you mistakenly think that “the - side always connects to a ground", you may upset the
polarity of the negative supply voltage (VEE), so be especially cautious. In any case, be sure
to make the polarity shown on the silkscreen. On the circuit diagram, this is marked by a +
sign and slash sign near the capacitor.
The film that is wrapped around the capacitor in order to protect the parts and indicate
the capacitance is highly electric as shown by the way that it sticks to your hand with
static electricity. The sound is influenced by this static electricity, so if you peel the film off,
the sound quality will become vibrant. Gently cut a small bit of the film with a utility knife.
Using nippers will make the whole film easy to tear. Once you tear it off, it is
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recommended that you mark the - side with something like a permanent marker to record
the capacitance. Do not allow the packages to touch while mounted to the circuit board.
The capacitor’s unit is F (farad): with μ this means μF (10-6, microfarad), with n it means nF
(10-9, nanofarad), and with p it means pF (10-12, picofarad).
3-3. Pin Assignment - Semiconductor
Diodes and transistors are made to have a specific line-up of prongs (pin assignment).
Japanese transistors are becoming integrated so as to always have the pins E, C, B
starting from the left. Mount them for use on the circuit board as seen in the diagram.
You may refer to the silkscreen that is printed on the circuit board so that you know the
direction of the parts as seen from above.
(1) Diode
The rectifier diode is rather large for a preamplifier, but it is used because after a listening
trial, the sound quality was excellent. There is also one package called a diode bridge that
contains 4 components, but this was of mediocre sound quality.
A (Anode) (+ Side)
K (Cathode) (- Side)
* Diode - The band (white line) is on the side of K.

* Lighting LED (light emitting diode) A (anode) is the longer side.
(2) Bipolar transistor (BJT)
E (emitter)
C (collector)
B (base)
2SA970-BL (Toshiba)Low noise audio amplifier applications pnp High hFE (TO-92, plastic
package)
2SC2240-BL (Toshiba)Low noise audio amplifier applications npn,High hFE (TO-92, plastic
package) 2SA1015-Y/-GR (Toshiba)General purpose pnp (TO-92, plastic package)

2SC1815-Y/-GR (Toshiba)General purpose npn (TO-92, plastic package)
2SA2190 (Toshiba)Driver stage amplifier applications pnp (TO-220, plastic package)
2SC6072 (Toshiba)Driver stage amplifier applications npn (TO-220, plastic package)
2SA1471-R/-S (Sanyo)Power amplifier applications pnp (TO-220, plastic package)
2SC3748-R/-S (Sanyo)Power amplifier applications npn (TO-220, plastic package)

* Caution!! The leg sequences of TO-92 and TO-220 are different.
* Y/GR/B and R/S are the rank of hFE.
3-4. Loudspeaker overcurrent protection fuses
If the DC voltage continues to come out of the output terminal, it will damage the voice
coil of the speaker, and may cause burnout. This is because a current equal to the amount
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of DC voltage (E) divided by the voice coil’s DC resistor (R) will continue to flow (I=E/R). In
order to defend against situations where the zero adjustment made by VR1 goes wrong or
a malfunction from a wiring mistake occurs, we prepared a fuse that protects the speaker
from overcurrent. If the power supply voltage is ±22V, a fuse of about 2A is appropriate,
as a capacitance any smaller than that will cause the fuse to blow if you turn the volume
up a little, and any larger than that will prevent it from carrying out its protective function.
If you are going to switch it for another one, please use midget glass 2A/250V or 2A/125A.
3-5. Loudspeaker terminal (army type)
The amp’s speaker terminal is a very common item that has been around for a long time,
called an “army terminal”. There is something similar called a “Johnson terminal”, but we
didn’t use it because the plastic has been tapped and cut, so if you put in a screw it might
easily become loose. There are often people who boast that high-end speaker terminals
have the best sound, but it would be wise not to expect that much from them. Instead,
build one from start to finish and actually listen to the sound with your own ears. What
decides the freshness of the sound is the well thought-out simplicity of the circuit system
and the way you mounted it, so you will notice that whether the terminal is good or bad is
unimportant.
3-6. Toroidal transformer wiring
The Toroidal transformer was originally used overseas. By just changing the hardwiring of
the primary winding, you will be able to use it for 115V (primarily in the US) or 230V
(primarily in Europe, parts of Asia). In cases in Japan where 100V (50/60Hz) is used, you
should line up the phase-indicating marks (・) and connect parallel. The voltage of the
secondary winding will become slightly lower than the number shown, but there is no
need to worry, as the circuits inside the amp were built with a set constant that takes that
into account.
The excellent magnetic properties of the toroidal transformer and the high remanence of
the grain-oriented silicon steel, occasionally leads to high inrush current (rush current or
inrush current is “instantaneous input current drawn by an electrical device when first
turned on”). When a transformer is first energized, a transient current up to 10 to 50
times larger than the rated transformer current can flow for several cycles. In order to
prevent the inrush current to damage the amplifier, a 3A/5A fuse (see “Appendix B.
Schematic”) is in place.
3-7. Conducting wire
For the conductors, non-plated solid copper conductors are being used. These have a long
history of being widely used as ideal conductors for landline phones, and have had their
transfer characteristics, shape, and twisting methods heavily researched in a variety of
fields. This seemingly insubstantial conductor gives solid and clear sound. The power
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system uses Ø0.65mm, while the audio signal system uses Ø0.4mm. Each one has 4 colors,
but the recommended color classification is as shown below.
(1) Power Supply System (Ø0.65mm)
Brown + power supply (VCC)

Black + power supply (VCC) GND
White - power supply (VEE) GND
Blue - power supply (VEE)
(1) Signal System (Ø0.4mm)
Brown Right Channel (R) Hot Side

Black Right Channel (R) Hot Side (GND)
White Left Channel (R) Cold Side (GND)

Blue Left Channel (R) Cold Side
However, the solid conductor does have a fault, which is that if it gets scratched it will
break easily. When using wire strippers to strip the conductor’s coating, if you do not
match it with the correct size hole, you will scratch the wire with the blade. If that
happens, adding force or suddenly bending the wire will break it. Remember to keep this
in mind and proceed carefully when stripping the conductor’s coating. Also, because the
coating melts easily, solder quickly.
If you notice the wiring becoming longer, lightly twist the hot side and cold side at equal
intervals (twisted pair). It will be harder for the magnetic field to break out, but it will also
be harder for it to magnetically induce, so this is effective as universal noise prevention. If
you do not twist it uniformly, it will not have this effect.
3-8. Terminal
The included circuit board does not have any pins. This is one example of our policy of
reducing intervention so that it does not ruin the crispness of the sound. If you were to
use pins, imagine a complex path from the circuit board to the conductor (copper foil ⇒
solder ⇒⇒plated layer ⇒⇒metal base of pin ⇒⇒plated layer ⇒⇒solder ⇒conductor). As a
way to skip over all of this, you can instead insert the non-plated conductor into the hole
in the circuit board, then directly solder the copper layer. In these explanations we use
the word "terminal", but for these purposes please think of it as a hole in the circuit
board.
3-9. Soldering
It is said that 80% of malfunctions are because of a mistake in the soldering. Soldering
incorrectly brings about sound quality deterioration, undesired noises, and malfunctions
as a result of contact failure.
(1) Soldering the conductor to the terminal
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When soldering the conductor to the terminal, it is recommended that you tie the wire to
the terminal in advance, make certain the metals touch, and then do the soldering while
heating the point of contact with a soldering iron.
(2) Solder Stranded Wire
If when stripping the coating you ended up cutting several strands of wire, make sure to
redo it, or it may break. Once you properly strip the coating, twist it well, and plate the tip
in advance with a small amount of solder. Once you finish this, the twisted wires will not
fray, and the frayed ends will not touch the neighboring terminals.
(3) Third Hand or Helping hands
When soldering the circuit board and small parts, the work will be easier if you have a vise
to keep it in a fixed position or another hand to help you. You could also easily make
something to hold it using everyday household items. Prepare some thick paper or a small
cardboard cookie box, and cut a square hole in it a bit smaller than the size of the circuit
board. Put a weight inside to keep it secure, and if you place the circuit board on top of
the box, you should be able to work comfortably. If you put away the scraps from the
lead wire into the cookie box, your workspace won’t be messy. Be careful to always have
proper ventilation, as the smoke of the solder is harmful to the body.
(4) Lead wire passed through the PCB board hole
Once the lead wire passes through the hole, bend it a little bit and secure it so the part
won’t fall off. Also, to make it so it is easier to confirm the constant later, it is best to
arrange the color-coding of the resistors. After soldering, let the heat release naturally
and then cut the lead wire.
3-10. Star grounding (single point grounding)
Generally when you build an amp, just by changing the way of grounding you may cause
hum and unusual oscillations. Once these symptoms appear, getting rid of them is
extremely troublesome.
An effective way to get rid of these problems, as you might expect, is to use single-point
grounding or something called star grounding.
As you can see in figure (1), if a weak signal flows around the print pattern where the
large current is flowing, a small amount of resistance (several mΩ) on the pattern itself
will cause electric potential difference, and they will influence each other. This resistance
is called common impedance, and we fix it by devising a pattern and doing our wiring so
that common impedance cannot occur. As a result, using a radial ground as shown in
figure (2), we tie the ground line to a single point. The included amp circuit board is built
like this, so we wire the cold side (GND) of the input signal and output signal to the area
around the center of the circuit board. Incidentally, if we wire the cold side of the input
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signal to the area around the hot side (IN), a weak signal would pass through the area
around capacitor C17, so there would be a heavy current influence including a large ripple,
and you wouldn’t really be able to get rid of the hum. However, once we wire the cold
side of the input signal to the area around the center of the circuit board, the hum
abruptly disappears.
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4. Assembling the power supply system
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
You should first build relatively easy things, so you can get used to it. After that, if you
do not follow the process below, it may be difficult to attach the parts. Make a check
mark in each [ ] space as you complete each operation in order.
[Warning] Do not set the fuse until all of the wiring is finished. The soldering iron’s
heat will melt it.
4-1. Spike Feet
In order to first raise the base of the chassis, attach the spike feet to the 3 points in
advance.
[ ] Install all three sets Ø4×5mm binding screw and screw caps into each of predrilled
holes on the chassis.
[ ] Insert the binding screw from the inside; from the exterior, fasten with the screw
caps. See below for a reference to the location of the interior.
3x sets of binding screws and screw caps interior view of the fastened binding screw exterior view of the bottom screw cap
4-2. AC Inlet
The AC inlet is used for inserting and attaching a power receptacle.
The One screw which passes through the jagged washer acts as a chassis ground.
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[ ] View of the AC inlet attached to the chassis.
The AC inlet is inserted into the attachment hole.
[Note] The fuse holder is located below the AC inlet.
[ ] Install the Ø3×8mm black hex screw, jagged washer, ground terminal (lug) and nut on
the right side of the AC inlet.Use a L wrench to fix the hex screw.
[ ] On the right side, fasten a flat washer and a screw.
[ ] Depending on the type of wire (enclosed gray or green), solder this wire to the
ground lug.
4-3. Speaker terminals
There is an error in the silk print for the speaker terminals. Please install the (+) side on
outside (red) and (-) side (black) on inside. Place the speaker terminal in the predrilled
holes on the chassis so that the left and right are in symmetric.
[ ] Remove all terminal nuts and knobs from the axis.
[ ] Metal collar side of the knob (tap is turned off) Put in as far as it can go
[ ] Place the two insulated plastic from the outside and inside of the chassis, and insert
into the predrilled hole.
[ ] Plastic insulation is put through the axis, and through the metal flange of the nut
[ ] Manually rotate the bolt and tighten with a wrench at the end. Please keep the
terminal loose and run idle. The speaker terminal will be damaged, if it is too tight. Please
work carefully.
[ ] When putting in the terminal lug, turn the tongue of the lug on the top for easier
wiring later.
[ ] Manually rotate the bolt of one to the other and tighten with a wrench at
the end. Please make sure that the speaker terminal is not idling.
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[ ] Install the knob on the outside. The whole set is tighten and idled
4-4. RCA pin Jack
[ ] Insert the pin jack into the hole from inside of the chassis. Fasten the screws (black
cap screw Ø3 × 8mm, nuts) to the two location and secure with Ø2.5mm hexagonal
wrench.
< 47style of RCA pin jack >
The cold sides of the red and white pin jacks are connected, so you can’t do single-point
grounding on each channel’s circuit board. For design reasons, we use the included single
black pin jack for the cold side. Rather than a thick, large pin jack, using something with as
little metal as possible will be better for the sound quality, keeping it clear.
4-5. Toroidal Transformer
Attach the toroidal transformer for power supply to the chassis. For this transformer the
lead lines are just the coiled wires, and the tips are solder plated.
[ ] Set the long bolt (Ø6x55mm) that you will attach to the transformer onto the chassis
and firmly fix it there with a nut and spring washer. Be careful, because if you attach the
transformer with the nut in a loosened position, the bolt will be at an incline and you
won’t be able to correct it.
[ ] Ensure the following layers of parts are placed in sequence through the bolt (view
diagram for detail): Rubber sheet, transformers, rubber sheets, metal disc, flat washers,
spring washers, and nut. Finally, fasten the nut onto the bolt.
[ ] The lead wire is on the surface of the transformer. Turn the position of the lead wire on
the centre.
[ ] Twist together the solder-plated blue and violet wires which will be wired to the AC
inlet L. ( For 200~240V please refer to power supply circuit on Appendix B).
[ ] Twist together the brown and green wires with solder plating which will be wired to
the AC inlet N. (For 200~240V please refer to power supply circuit on Appendix B).
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[ ] Leave the secondary lead at its original length. Cut each at the same length so that
the solder plating from the tip will fit tightly. Connect the wires to the power supply
PCB board (black, red, orange, and yellow)
4-6. Power toggle switch
[ ] Install the power toggle switch, locate the pre-drilled screw hole. Insert the power
switch from the inside with the switch facing outwards. Fasten the switch from the
outside by screwing the nut.
< This is the recommended way to attach the toggle switch lead >
You may often see other amps having lock washers attached to them, but
professional products do not have this. If you put the outside part of the screw into a
position where it is quite close to the chassis and turn the inside part with a wrench
without using the included lock washer or rotation-stopping plain washer, you can
neatly and accurately fix it in place without damaging the outside of the chassis. Lastly,
if you spread thread locker (a green sticking agent or instantaneous adhesive) around
the circumference of the inside part of the screw, it will become harder for it to loosen
during oscillations.
[ ]　
Connect the exposed end of thick blue wire from the AC inlet to the bottom circular
terminal on the back of the power toggle switch.
[ ] Next, connect exposed end of the violet and blue wire of the power transformer to
the middle circular terminal on the back of the power toggle switch.
[ ] Now connect and solder a capacitor (C1 0.01μF) between the bottom and middle
terminals of the power toggle switch to prevent sparking.
[ ] Cut and clean up any excess wires.
4-7. Use long hexagonal nut to support the power supply PCB and fuse holder
[ ] Since one of the power supply strut (post) serves as the chassis ground, paint on the
chassis has been purposely removed beforehand (also known as frame ground (FG)). A
point of contact is often polished to eliminate a hum due to bad grounding.
[ ] Use 2 pieces of Ø3×10mm long hexagonal nut to support the power supply PCB. The
long hexagonal is secured by a Ø3×6mm screw installed from the bottom of the chassis.
[ ] Use 2 pieces of (Ø3×10mm)long hexagonal nut to support the fuse holder. The long
hexagonal nut is secured by a Ø3×6mm screw installed from the bottom of the chassis.
Attached the fuse holder after soldering the wiring
4-8. Power supply PCB
The chart below is a perspective drawing of the print pattern on the component side of
the power supply board. If you treat the side with the component number silkscreened
on it as the “front”, the “back” side will have the print pattern on it (copper foil side). In
actuality, you will insert the parts from the front side, then solder the lead wire of the
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parts onto the back side. When you arrange the components on the included printed
circuit board, check them against the component numbers on the circuit diagram, then
mount.
[ ] Check and ensure the correct direction of a diode and an electrolytic capacitor before
installation.
[ ] copper foil surface is coated with flux in advance.

[ ] If you look closely at the ground pattern, the pathway connecting the ground side of
the electrolytic capacitor has become narrower. This is a twist for the midpoint so that
current does not flow without going through the electrolytic capacitor, This has the effect
of reducing the ripple.
[ ] Install rectifier diode D1 ~D4 in the correct direction.
[ ] Peel the film of the capacitors off and use a black marker to mark the negative side.
┗━ For detail, please refer to step 3-2.

[ ] Install electrolytic capacitor C2 and C3 (2200μF, 25V).
[ ] Solder the brown wire (Ø0.65mm) in 150mm from pin 1 of the power supply PCB
to the positive (1. VCC) of the Power Amp PCB and repeat for left and right channel.
[ ] Solder the black wire (Ø0.65mm) in 150mm from pin 2 of the power supply PCB to the
ground (2. GND) of the Power Amp PCB and repeat for left and right channel.
[ ] Solder the white wire (Ø0.65mm) in 150mm from pin 3 of the power supply PCB to the
ground (3. GND) of the Power Amp PCB and repeat for left and right channel.
[ ] Solder the blue wire (Ø0.65mm) in 150mm from pin 4 of the power supply PCB to the
ground (4. VEE) of the Power Amp PCB and repeat for left and right channel.
[ ] Solder about 200mm (Ø0.4mm) wires (different colors) from LED (A) and LED (K)
┗━connect different color wires to the positive and the negative power supply PCB
LED (A) and LED (K)
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[ ] Solder the leads of the secondary side of the transformer to the power supply
terminal. Orange and red are on the ground midpoint (GND), yellow and black are
wired to the mark on the power Supply PCB – (the beginning and the end position).
[ ] Solder the leads of the secondary side of the transformer to the power supply terminal.
Orange and red are on the ground midpoint (GND), yellow and black are wired to the
mark on the power Supply PCB – (the beginning and the end position). The wiring of
yellow, orange, black and red wire are independent of each other.
[ ] Finally, check parts and soldering again. Ensure that a screw (Ø3x4-mm) is fastened to
a chassis at the two places (2 posts behind the toroidal transformer).
4-9. Lighting
　LED for lighting is attached to the L-shaped metal fittings.
Since current is several mA, A thin single wire ( Ø 0.4mm wire) may be sufficient as
wiring.
.
[ ] Please use red spaghetti tubing to cover the lead of the LED anode (the long side) and
use black spaghetti tube to cover the lead of the LED cathode (the short side) of each LED
[ ] Insert the prongs of the 3 lighting LEDs (D5~D7) to the copper foil side. Make sure the
polarity of the LEDs is correct, then solder them to the LED PCB. If necessary, please
shorten the unwanted lead wires.

[ ] Solder the LED leads on copper foil surface.
[ ] For safety, please place a piece of double-sided tape at the back (not the copper foil
side)of each LED PCB for insulation purpose.

[ ] To prevent the lead wire to contact the bottom plate, please install each LED PCB to
the chassis bottom plate with a piece of Ø3 × 6mm screw and spring washer
[ ] Wire the LED PCB so that the three LEDs are in series.
[ ] Wire between the power supply PCB and LED PCB.
[ ] The lighting LEDs are facing toward the back so that they will illuminate the inside. You
can see them through the transparent acrylic faceplate. You can adjust the direction of
THE LEDs so that the light is diffused throughout the acrylic faceplate. The indirect
lighting is beautiful and quietly directing the existence of the audio device.
< Photograph from inside the chassis >
28/44
[CAUTION] To avoid accidentally damaging the acrylic faceplate due to soldering the wiring and PCB, please install the acrylic
face after you have finished the soldering.
4-7. Operating check
Before assembling the amplifier section, check the normal circuit power transformer
to ensure issues are rectified and resolved in advance. Ensure to measure the output
DC voltage.
[ ] Set the fuse into the AC inlet. An extra fuse is placed in a holder as a spare.
[ ] Insert the power cable and turn on the power switch.
[ ] Check the LED light is on and has the same brightness.
[ ] Check whether the voltage between terminal 1 and 2 is around +22V at no load
condition.
[ ] Check whether the voltage between terminal 3 and 4 is around -22V at no load
condition.
[ ] Turn off the power switch, unplug the power cable.
[ ] After you have verified the operation of the power system, please use a red felt pen to
mark on the place 100-120V under the AC inlet. This is important to indicate that the
device is set for 100-120 AC outlet.
[CAUTION] If you want to operate in 220-240V AC environment, please change the
wiring of the primary transformer in accordance with the circuit diagram. Please replace
the Midget fuse to 3A/250V (for AC220~240V area) instead of 5A/125V (for AC100~120V
area). The 3A/250V fuse is not included in the kit for AC100~120V area.
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5. Assembling the amplifier PCB
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
Finally, we will go to the heart of this kit assembly. We will work in accordance with
the procedure by one channel, and assemble two sets of the same PCB. In order to
demonstrate adequate performance; please make sure to check carefully against the
circuit diagram at the end of this document
5-1. Parts list
The following parts are grouped into one bag for each channel bag. Please check the
contents. The copper foil surface is coated with flux in advance.
- Amplifier PCB (Silkscreen printing) ×1
- BJT Q1/Q4 2SA970-BL (hFE = 350～700) ×2
Q2/Q3 2SC2240-BL (hFE = 350～700) ×2
Q5/Q6 2SA1015-Y (hFE = 120～240) ×2
Q7/Q8 2SC1815-Y (hFE = 120～240) ×2
Q9 2SC6072 (hFE = 100～320) ×1
Q10 2SA2190 (hFE = 100～320) ×1
Q11 2SA1471-R/-S (hFE = 120～240) ×1

Q12 2SC3748-R/-S (hFE = 120～240) ×1
-D D8 2SA1015-GR (hFE = 200～400) ×1
D9 2SC1815-GR (hFE = 200～400) ×1

-C C10 22pF,50V Multilayer ceramic ×1
C11 1μF,50V　Polypropylene film ×1

C12/C14 0.1μF,50V Multilayer ceramic ×2
C13/C15 220μF,25V Electrolytic (Nippon Chemi-Con) ×2
C16/C17 2200μF,25 Electrolytic (Nippon Chemi-Con) ×2

C18 0.022μF,50V Multilayer ceramic ×1
[NOTE] Electrolytic capacitor, there is no difference between parts that have a bigger voltage.
-R R10 10kΩ ×1
R11/R12 100kΩ ×2
R13/R14 15kΩ ×2
R15/R16/R17/R18 470Ω x4
R20 22kΩ ×1
R21/R22 68Ω ×2
R23/R24 100Ω ×2
R19/R25/R26/R27/R30 220Ω ×5
R28/R29 47Ω ×2
R31/R32 0.47Ω (2W) ×2
R33 10Ω (2W) ×1
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VR1 B2kΩ　variable resistor ×1
VR2 B500Ω semi variable resistor ×1
5-2. Amplifier PCB
The figure below is a perspective view of the printed patterns on the amplifier circuit
board component. The “back” is the side with the printed copper foil surface;
whereas the “top” is the side with the green silk imprint. Ensure to insert the parts
from the “top” and solder the parts from the bottom. When you place the parts onto
the attached printed circuit, please ensure to match the part to the imprinted part
number as on the circuit diagram.
- Ensure that the transistor and electrolytic capacitor are installed in the correct
locations and directions.

- The dotted line near Q1/Q2 is a jumper wire.
-
The copper foil surface will have flux pre-applied.
The perspective view of the pattern seen from

the component side
5-3. Semi-variable resistor and a fixed resistor
In order to facilitate the work, install all parts by first laying the parts out according to
the diagram, except for the resistor R11/R12/R20. Please attach all parts laid down. Not
only will you be able to see the color code on the resistors but this can enable you to
measure the resistor value (multi-meter) with the tester just in case.
[ ] Install and solder the resistors from R10 to R32 accordingly to the silk print on the
PCB.
[ ] VR1 is installed in the direction near the side of Q2. Insert the feet firmly so that the
fitting is not loose. Adjust the position around the center in advance.
[ ] Make sure the VR2 installs as per the direction of the photo on the right hand side.
Insert and solder the 3 feet firmly so that the fitting is not loose. In order to facilitate
the adjustment, please use a red felt pen to mark the position of the arrow.
[ ] R19 and R33 is installed on the copper foil face. There is only 5mm from the base of
the chassis, so a lead line is cut beforehand to ensure that it’ll be the height within that.
Please use spaghetti tubing to cover the lead if the lead line is too long.
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5- 4. Capacitors
Because there is a polarity in the electrolytic capacitor, ensure the installation of the
capacitor is in the direction of the silk print as on the PCB.
[ ] Install C10,C11.
[ ] Install C16,C17 (the photo on the right shows the capacitor film was peeled off).
[ ] Install C18.
[CAUTION] Deficient soldering of the electrolytic capacitor will increase the risk of damage.
5-5. Semiconductors (transistors)
After checking the line of a foot to ensure it is the same as shown on the silk print
obtain the semiconductor from the content bag provided and properly place it
onto the respective installation place. Ensure that the lead line is as short as
possible.
[ ] Install the Q1 ~ Q4 which are included with the package selection as a set value is
close hFE. To absorb the individual difference of each VBE, fine-tune the VR1 by
adjusting the DC to zero.
[ ] Install Q5-Q8. hFE sorts out with the value as close as possible as a set and
bundles it. The variation in the emitter resistance is suppressed.
[ ] Installation of the transistor Q9/Q10 for the driver. Solder to shorten the leg as
much as possible because there is a fastening screw (Coupling) fitting that it hits
later.
[ ] Mount the holes of the power transistor Q11/Q12 so that they are directly
attached to the holes on the bottom plate of the chassis. You can adjust the length
of the leg so that the position is right.
[ ] Temporarily solder Q11/Q12 Central foot (collector). Ensure the mounting angle
and position of the screw holes is correct..
[ ] Solder all the Q11/Q12 legs. Ensure the interval of the pattern is narrow, and the
legs of the transistor are not overlapped -- if the legs are overlapped, a power
transistor will be damaged.
5-6. Instant adhesives
(for the thermal coupling power transistors and the bias setting transistors)
Generally, for bipolar transistors (BJT), when the bias voltage VBE is fixed, if the
temperature of the area starts to rise as shown in the graph on the right, the base
current will increase. On the other hand, when the base current is fixed, a rise in
temperature will cause VBE to decrease. The D8/D9 on the circuit board signifies that
each transistor is actually being used as a diode. Paste D8 to Q11 and D9 to Q12, and
once the final stage power transistor generates heat, the bias voltage will
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automatically decrease, preventing thermal runaway.
[ ] Cut a suitable length of (0.4 mm Ø) jumper wire and peel off the insulation at both
ends and solder one side of the jumper wire to the Emitter (E)of 2SA1015-GR (PNP)
which is equivalent to the anode (A) of D8.
[ ] Cut a suitable length of (0.4 mm Ø) jumper wire and peel off the insulation at both
ends and solder one side of the jumper wire to the Base (B) and Collector (C) of
2SA1015-GR (PNP) which is equivalent to the cathode (K) of D8.
[ ] Glue the print side of the D8 (2SA1015-GR) with Instant adhesives on the print side
of Q11 (2SA1471 ).
D8 D8
2SA1015-GR
D9
D9
2SC1815-GR
[ ] Cut a suitable length of (0.4 mm Ø) jumper wire and peel off the insulation at
both ends and solder one side of the jumper wire to the emitter of 2SC1815-GR
(NPN) which is equivalent to the cathode (K) of D9.
[ ] Cut a suitable length of (0.4 mm Ø) jumper wire and peel off the insulation at
both ends and solder one side of the jumper wire to the Base (B) and Collector (C)
of 2SC1815-GR (PNP) which is equivalent to the Anode (A) of D9.

[ ] Glue the print side of the D9 (2SC1815-GR) with Instant adhesives on the print side
of Q12 (2SC3748-GR).
5-7. Jumpers
There is a dotted line drawn to intersect the Q1/Q2 from positive and negative power
on the silk printing of the printed circuit board. Wire the jumper wire to the
component side as shown on the schematic.
[ ] Strip the ends, by cutting to an appropriate length, of the (Ø0.4mm) jumper wire.
Solder the jumper wire from the positive supply to the collector of Q2.
[ ] Strip the ends, by cutting to an appropriate length, of the (Ø0.4mm) jumper wire.
Solder the jumper wire from the negative power supply to the collector of Q1.
Completed amplifier circuit board
33/44
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
6. Continue to check the wiring and signal system
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
Leave a bit of extra on the wiring just in case, then cut them to a moderate length. If you
cut them too close, what you have to do later will be more difficult. More specifically, in
order to make the left and right channels in the same condition as much as possible, it is
best to keep the wires the same length. Both the power line and the signal line are a pair
of conductors. If you loosely twist the conductors together, it will be hard for them to be
induced. Separate the power line and signal line so that they do not interfere with each
other. It is best not to bundle them.
The arrangement and direction of the modules as seen from above are shown in the chart
below.
34/44
6-1. Wiring the amplifier PCB board from the RCA pin jack
Now we will wire the input signal wire from the RCA pin jacks to the left and right amp
circuit boards. Cut the thin wires (Ø0.4mm). You are going to use to an appropriate length,
and strip the coating. For amps that have already been built, we usually make the front
side the LEFT channel, and the back side the RIGHT channel.
[ ] Connect and solder the input signal wire from the “left channel” amplifier board (Hot
and Cold) to the Left channel PIN jack. (Blue /Hot, White /Cold)
[ ] Connect and solder the input signal wire from the “Right channel” amplifier board (Hot
and Cold) to the Right channel PIN jack. (Brown/Hot, Black/Cold)
6-2. Mounting the amplifier PCB board
Wire the completed amplifier PCB board and mount the PCB board on the chassis.
[ ] Wire the power supply PCB pin 1 (VCC) and pin 2 (GND).
[ ] Wire the power supply PCB 3 (GND)pin 4 (VEE ).
[ ] Wire the hot side of the output signal wire to the Operate / Mute switch from the
amplifier PCB board “OUT”. Wire the cold side of the output signal wire” GND” to the
speaker terminal (-) .
[ ] The (Ø3 × 5mm) spacer is taped on the chassis. Place the amplifier PCB board on top of
the plastic spacer and install a screw (Ø3 × 10mm) in 2 locations.

[ ] Install the Ø3 × 10mm screw from the bottom of the chassis to mount the power
transistor.
[ ] Put a thin layer of silicone grease on the surface of the power transistor with a cotton
swab.
[ ] Secure the power transistor with a screw nut.
In order to let the heat spread easily, there is no coating on the area around the power
transistor. Attach it directly to the chassis, but because the package is made of resin,
there is no need to insert any insulation material.
[CAUTION] If you fasten it too tightly, the power transistor package may break, so be
careful.
6-3. Wiring the amplifier output to the speaker terminal
[ ] Wire the output terminal of the amplifier PCB board to the speaker terminal with
Ø0.65mm thick solid conductor and cut the wire to an appropriate length and strip the
coating.
[ ] Install the 6-pin Operate /Mute switch, locate the pre-drilled screw hole. Insert the
Operate /Mute switch from the inside with the switch facing outwards. Fasten the switch
from the outside by screwing the nut. (Same as step 4-6)
[ ] Solder the hot side of the Left and Right channel of the amplifier PCB board output
terminal is soldered to the middle terminal of the 6-pin Operate / Mute switch
[ ] Connect and solder the fuse holder terminal to the bottom terminal of the Operate / Mute
35/44
switch. Do not wire the upper terminal of the 6-pin Operate / Mute switch.
[ ] Wire and solder the fuse holder terminal to the + side of speaker terminals.
[ ] Attach the fuse holder to the support with a Ø3x4mm screw.
[ ] Wire and solder the –side of the speaker terminals to the GND of the amplifier PCB board.
[ ] Here is the complete wiring of model 0347 .
[TIPS] It is no problem for the Operate/Mute switch signal wire from the speak terminal
to be set near the transformer.
【View of complete internal wiring 】
36/44
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
7. Adjustment and operation check
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
Once you have completed the assembly, please make sure that you perform the
following adjustments.
7-1. Smoke test
Because the terminals of the AC inlet and power switch are exposed, be extremely
careful not to get shocked. In the event that it electrifies and smoke appears, it is
probably a short from a wiring mistake or the solder bridge. Immediately turn off the
power and check once more to see if your wiring matches the circuit diagram.
During adjustment of 8-2 and 8-3 below, turn the Operate/Mute switch down to Mute,
and absolutely do not connect to the speaker until you have confirmed the appropriate
number.
7-2. Output terminal Zero voltage adjustment (ZERO ADJUST)
Measure the DC voltage between the + and - of each left and right speaker terminal. Turn
VR1 (ZERO ADJUST on the circuit diagram) and adjust it until it becomes less than 10mV.
Because thermal equilibrium occurs when you adjust the voltage, it will take a few
seconds before it stabilizes. It is best if it is fluctuating within ±10mV.
7-3. Adjust the idle current of the power transistor (IDLE ADJUST)
You can change the idle current that flows through the power transistor during silence by
using the VR2 (IDLE ADJUST on the circuit diagram) that is on each channel’s amp circuit
board to change the bias voltage applied to Q9/Q10. About 30mA--approximately the
middle on the VR2--is appropriate. If the power transistor becomes abnormally hot, it is
probably an overcurrent from a mistake in the resistance. Measuring the DC voltage drop
that is produced by R31/R32 = 0.47Ω in a soundless state with the volume turned down
and VR2 near the middle should result in about 10~20mV normally. For example, the idle
current I0 at 15mV will become the following:

I0 = 15mV/0.47Ω = 31.9mA
In normal situations, even if you touch the power transistor it should only be slightly
warm. If it is not approximately 30mA, the idle current will decrease when you turn VR2 to
the left, and increase when you turn it to the right.

When about 10 minutes pass, repeat 8-2 and 8-3, and check once more that each channel
is within the appropriate amount of mA.
7-4. Left/Right channel (Stereo) Sound Test
Turn up the volume a small bit while connected to the speakers, and check whether
sound is coming from the left and right. If there is a strange noise, immediately turn off
37/44
the power switch, and double-check the wiring.
At this point, let’s try to change the impedance on the speakers. Try to estimate and see if
you can get a maximum power of 40W. If you use 4Ω, the amplitude of the current will be
maximized, and it will be
P = I2R＝40W, I = 3.16ARMS
but since the average AC current is 1/π of that, it will drive enough with the capacity of the
transformer. On the other hand if it is 8Ω the voltage amplitude will be maximum, and if
you make the maximum power 30W, it will be
P = E2/R＝30W, E = 15.49VRMS
but even at its peak it is at best √２ times that, so it fits nicely within the power supply
voltage.
Because of the influence of the regulation of the transformer (the resistance of the inside
making it so the more the current flows, the lower the voltage will be), the distortion will
increase as it gets closer to maximum output, and the amp will be unable to drive the
speaker, limiting the range and clarity of the sound.
7-5. Check the left and right channels
Prepare a music source with line output, such as a CD player. Connect something in
between like a passive attenuator, and check it at the appropriate volume. Insert only the
left one into an input pin jack and make sure to listen only to the left, then insert only the
right one and make sure to listen only to the right.
7-6. Check the hum noise
Check that there is no hum when a cable is connected to a sound source such as a CD
player, and also when there is nothing connected. If the soldering of the capacitor is
incomplete, you will be unable to remove ripple and there may be hum. If it is in that kind
of condition, check the soldering of each circuit board. If the head of the capacitor is
bulging strangely, it means the polarity is reversed.
7-7. Install the acrylic top and front plate
After adjustments are complete, attach the transparent acrylic front panel and top plate
to finish it up. The screw holes on the underside and backside of the top plate are tapped.
[ ] Insert the acrylic front plate of the chassis with a black nut and Ø3 × 10mm screw in 2
locations.
[ ] Secure the Ø3 × 60mm hex strut with a Ø3 × 6mm screw from the bottom of the
chassis. There are 4 locations.
[ ] Cover the top plate carefully, then secure the top plate with Ø3 × 5mm) black screw
caps from the top in two places.
[ ] Gently screw the Ø3 × 5mm black screws from the rear of the chassis in two locations.
[ ] Gently screw the Ø3 × 6mm screws from the bottom of the chassis in four locations.
38/44
Congratulations, everything from assembly to adjustments is now complete. To test the
sound quality as well as to condition the amplifier, place an audio CD in . Now sit back
and enjoy the quality sound.
39/44
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
8. Troubleshooting
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
80% of failures are due to poor soldering, therefore, it is important to carefully check
the soldering. Equipment malfunction may be encountered if there are any mistakes
made during the assembly process and or through modifications. The main cause of
malfunction is usually isolated so please try to troubleshoot the problem first by
backtracking to the source of the problem. If you cannot solve the problem through
troubleshooting, and after consultation, it is recommended that you seek out
assistance services for a fee from the office of “47 Treasure” or your local distributor.
8-1. Direct-current voltage appears on the output
The DC balance of the final power transistor Q11/Q12 is off.

[ ] Because the DC voltage is determined by the resistance of R11-VR2-R12, it is
multiplied by a gain factor of x5. You should check whether the midpoint potential of
Q6/Q8 is close to 0V.
[ ] If neither of the transistors Q11/Q12 are functioning normally, the output voltage will
stick to the power supply voltage of the VCC side or VEE side. The space between the
patterns around the transistor is narrow, so check whether there is a solder bridge
(short-circuit) or connection failure.
[ ] This amplifier’s final stage power transistor is pnp on the top side Q11 and npn on
the bottom side Q12, which is not the same as a regular SEPP (see page 14). This is a
common misconception so try not to mistake them.
8-2. The output stage power transistors are extremely hot
An overcurrent is flowing through final power transistor Q11/12. This is dangerous and
may damage the transistor; therefore, it is important to immediately turn off the
power and investigate the cause.
[ ] Is the power transformer wired as specified? Check the color code of the wiring to
the circuit？
[ ] Check whether the power line wiring has been connected as numbered.
[ ] Check whether the polarity of the electrolytic capacitor is installed correctly.
[ ] Are the legs of the transistors soldered firmly？

[ ] Check whether the VR1 is properly adjusted so that the DC output voltage is less
than 10mV.
[ ] Check whether the VR2 is properly adjusted so that the idle current is within the
specification.
40/44
8-3. LED light is not lighting up
[ ] Is the LED connected correctly? Check the polarity (Anode and Cathode).
[ ] Are the three LEDs connected in series?
[ ] Is the R1 value correct?
8-4. Hum noise
[ ] Is there any problem with solder on the electrolytic capacitors?
[ ] Is middle point voltage of the power supply dropped onto the ground (chassis
ground) ?
[ ] If you forgot C18 and/or R33, the amplifier itself may have an unusual oscillation
which may cause the hum noise.
8-5. Radio and static noise is heard
[ ] Did you forget C10?
If you forget the C10 capacitor, the filter that eliminates RFI will have no effect. High
frequency noises emitted from home appliances and equipment as well as radio
frequency waves from TV/radio stations will be detected and amplified. This will result
in hearing unwanted sounds and voices.
[ ] Is there a contact failure with the pin jack?
In particular, if the cold side of the pin jack has a contact failure, it will become easier
for the hot side to pick up noise. Therefore, when you connect the line cable into the
pin jack, ensure to turn down the volume or turn off the power.
[ ] Is the cold side of the line cable disconnected?
If the cold side has a contact failure or is disconnected, the hot side will become an
antenna, and the amplifier will become a radio.
[ ] Is there an LED light bulb near the amplifier?
LED light bulbs let out a lot of high frequency noise which line cables and internal
wiring can pick up resulting in unwanted buzzing or static noises. Keep the amplifier
and LED light bulbs at least 1 meter apart.
41/44
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
Appendix A. Documentation
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
A-1. Resistor color coding scheme (5- band color code )
There is no difference in performance between a 5-band or 6-band code resistor.
Please use the multi-meter to check the value of the resistor prior to using.
Colors ①②③Digits ④Multiplier ⑤Tolerance
――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
black 0 x100 = 1 -
brown 1 x101 = 10 ±1%

2
red 2 x10 = 100 ±2%
orange 3 x103 = 1k -
4
yellow 4 x10 = 10k -
green 5 x105 = 100k ±0.5%

6
blue 6 x10 = 1M -
violet 7 x107 = 10M -
gray 8 - -
white 9 - -
-1
gold - x10 = 0.1 ±5%
silver - x10-2 = 0.01 ±10%
[Examples]
brown/black/black/brown 100 x 100 = 100 Ω (±1%)

yellow/violet/black/brown/brown 470 x 101 = 4.7kΩ (±1%)
yellow/violet/black/orange/brown 470 x 103 = 470kΩ (±1%)
Semi-fixed resistor (3-band) 500 = 50 x 100 = 50Ω
202 = 20 x 102 = 2kΩ
A-2. Capacitor (3-band)
Notation Value
101 100pF
102 1000pF = 1nF = 0.001μF
103 10nF = 0.01μF
104 100nF = 0.1μF
105 1000nF = 1.0μF
Tolerance G (±2%), J (±5%), K (±10%), M (±20%)
[Example]
223J = 22nF = 0.022μF (±5%)
42/44
Term Symbol Unit (Reading)
Voltage E V (Volt)
Current I A (Ampere)
Power P W (Watt)
Resistance R Ω (Ohm)
Inductance L H (Henry)
Capacitance C F (Farad)
Frequency f Hz (Hertz)
Impedance Z Ω (Ohm) Z = R + jX
Inductive reactance XL Ω (Ohm) XL = 2πfL
Capacitive reactance XC Ω (Ohm) XC = 1 / 2πf
A-3. Ohm’s law
Voltage E = I x R [V] 1000mV = 1V
Current I = E / R [A] 1000mA = 1A
Resistance R = E / I [Ω] 1000Ω = 1kΩ

2 2
Power P = I x E = I x R = E / R [W] 1000mW = 1W
A-4. SI prefixes represent an integer power of 10 times
Name Symbol Size Name Symbol Size
――――――――――――｜―――――――――――――
(yotta) Y 1024 (deci) d 10-1
(zetta) Z 1021 (centi) c 10-2

(exa) E 1018 (milli) m 10-3
(peta) P 1015 (micro) μ 10-6
(tera) T 1012 (nano) n 10-9
(giga) G 109 (pico) p 10-12
(mega) M 106 (femto) f 10-15

(kilo) k 103 (atto) a 10-18
(hecto) h 102 (zepto) z 10-21
(deca) da 101 (yocto) y 10-24

* The prefix which connected and compounded two or more prefixes does not use.
A-5. Gain (dB)
Voltage ratio GE = 20 x log10 (Eout / Ein) [dB]

Current ratio GI = 20 x log10 (Iout / Iin) [dB]
Power ratio GP = 10 x log10 (Pout / Pin) [dB]
43/44
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
Appendix B. Schematic
―――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
LEFT/RIGHT POWER AMPLIFIER (+31dB, 30W/8Ω, 40W/4Ω)
205uA 1.377mA 1.336mA 1.346mA +20.8V R25 3.378mA 30mA +22.0V

1. VCC
220
R11 R13 R15 R16 C12 C13 R27 R31 C16

100k 15k 470 470 0.1u 220u(25V) 220 0.47(2W) 2200u(25V)
Q11
Q5 Q6 2SA1471-R/-S
2SA1015-Y 2SA1015-Y
R23
Q9
2SC6072
100
+0.6V Q3
2SC2240-BL D8
2SA1015-GR
R21
Q1 R28 MUTE
2SA970-BL 68 CW FUSE SP (4-8Ω）
ZERO ADJUST 47
2. GND
R20 VR2 2A/250V
VR1 OPERATE + -
B2k B500 C18 R33
22k IDLE ADJUST
R19 3. GND
R10 C11
Q2 220 R29 0.022u 10(2W)
LINE IN R22
2SC2240-BL 47
10k 4.7u (BP) Zobel filter: fc = 723.4kHz
C10 68 star ground
22p -0.6V D9 at this point
Q4
2SC1815-GR
2SA970-BL
R24 Q10
R10 - C10 makes low-pass filter to block 2SA2190
RFI (radio frequency interference) 100
Q7 Q8 Q12
fc = 723.4kHz 2SC1815-Y 2SC1815-Y 2SC3748-R/-S
R10xC11 avoid motorboating oscillation
R12 R17 C15 C17

R14 R18 C14 R30 R32
100k 15k 470 470 0.1u 220u(25V) 220 0.47(2W) 2200u(25V)
R26
4. VEE
-20.8V 220 -22.0V
POWER SUPPLY
RS671-9139 (120VA) D1-D4 thermal coupling D8/Q11 and D9/Q12
POWER PR6003 (Fast Recovery) 1
FUSE brown POWER INDICATOR
115V (blue) 18V (black)
1
5A/250V R1
C1 200V/6A
C2 D8 D8
2200u(25V) 10k
2 D5 D6 D7
L
0.01u/630V black white white white

0V (brown) 0V (red)
(AC100-120V) 2
G
AC_INLET 115V (violet) 18V (orange) 2SA1015-GR
3 FG
white
C3 3
N
FG 2200u(25V) 3.5mA
D9
0V (green) 0V (yellow) D9
4
blue
POWER 4
FUSE 2SC1815-GR
115V (blue)
3A/250V
C1
R: 1/2W, metal film (1%)
L
0.01u/630V
0V (brown)
G (AC200-240V)
AC_INLET 115V (violet) model 0347: Stereo Power Amplifier
(c)2011-2012 by 47 Treasure/47 Laboratory
N
FG
0V (green) v1.1, 2012.03.19 by k.tsukahara

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model 0347

All Discrete Design Stereo Power Amplifier

DIY Assembly Kit

2. Features and specifications ………………………………………………… 9

3. Background information on components …………………………………… 16

4. Assembling the power supply system ……………………………………… 22

5. Assembling the amplifier PCB ……………………………………………… 29

6. Continue to check the wiring and signal system …………………………… 34

7. Adjustment and operation check …………………………………………… 37

Appendix A. Documentation …………………………………………………… 42

Appendix B. Schematic ………………………………………………………… 44

Congratulations on your new purchase of the 47 Treasure kit!

producers and consumers is exemplified by television advertising which influence the

product provides an opportunity to explore technology through your own eyes

throughout the production process.

“Only the simplest can accommodate the most complex.”

have received very great feedback and reviews of our products.

We very sincerely appreciate your support!

47 Treasure / 47 Laboratory Inc.

[ ] Pre-painted steel chassis (top plate) x1

[ ] Pre-painted aluminum chassis (bottom plate) x1

[ ] Transparent acrylic faceplate (with printing) x1

(2) Major components and wiring

[ ] RCA pin jack (2- pin) x1

[ ] Fuse 5A/125V (for 220-240V, 3A/250V) x1

[ ] Speaker fuse overcurrent protection (2A/250V Midget glass tube) x2

[ ] Loudspeaker overcurrent protection fuse holder x2

[ ] AC inlet (3-pin, built-in fuse holder) x1

[ ] Operate / Mute switch (6-pin, toggle switch with screws) x1

[ ] Power switch (3-pin, toggle switch with screws) x1

[ ] Toroidal transformer (supplied with mounting screws and nuts) x1

[ ] Wire (Ø0.4mm and Ø0.65m, power line wire) x1 set

[ ] Insulating tube (white, black, red) x1 set

[ ] Silicone grease (to lower power transistor temperature)

(3) Screws and nuts

┗━Power supply PCB, Fuse holder

┗━LED PCB, Top plate, chassis

┗━ power transistor amplifier board

┗━Support the amp Board in two places

[ ] Long hexagonal nut (Ø3×60mm) x2

┗━Used for securing the top plate.

┗━Used for installing the top plate from the top.

┗━ RCA pin Jack .

┗━ AC inlet, and acrylic plate.

┗━AC inlet, RCA pin jack, and acrylic plate.

┗━It is a 3-point support of the amp.

┗━ For installing the LED lighting board.

┗━to ensure the chassis is grounded.

┗━The ground terminal of AC inlet.

(4) Power supply, lighting

[ ] Capacitor prevents sparking0.01μF,400V x1

[ ] Power supply PCB (with printing) x1

[ ] Rectifier diodes (Fast recovery) 200V, 6A x4

[ ] Electrolytic capacitors 2200μF, 25V x2

[ ] LED current limiting resistors 10kΩ, 1/2W x1

[ ] Lighting LEDs (white) x3

[ ] Lighting PCB (for LED) x3

(5) 2 sets of amplifier components (one for each channel)

　┗━ We recommend KR-19 High Performance Resin Flux Cored Solder or