CH940-CH1000 Service Manual
CH940-CH1000 Service Manual
CH940-CH1000 Service Manual
Service Manual
IMPORTANT: Read all safety precautions and instructions carefully before operating equipment. Refer to operating
instruction of equipment that this engine powers.
Ensure engine is stopped and level before performing any maintenance or service.
2 Safety
3 Maintenance
5 Specifications
13 Tools and Aids
16 Troubleshooting
20 Air Cleaner/Intake
21 Fuel System
27 Governor System
28 Lubrication System
30 Electrical System
45 Disassembly/Inspection and Service
59 Reassembly
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: A hazard that could result in death, serious injury, or substantial property damage.
CAUTION: A hazard that could result in minor personal injury or property damage.
NOTE: is used to notify people of important installation, operation, or maintenance information.
MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
WARNING
Accidental Starts can cause severe injury or Before working on engine or equipment, disable engine as
death. follows: 1) Disconnect spark plug lead(s). 2) Disconnect
negative (–) battery cable from battery.
Disconnect and ground spark plug lead(s)
before servicing.
Normal maintenance, replacement or repair of emission control devices and systems may be performed by any repair
establishment or individual; however, warranty repairs must be performed by a Kohler authorized dealer.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Weekly
● Check filter minder. Air Cleaner/Intake
REPAIRS/SERVICE PARTS
Kohler genuine service parts can be purchased from Kohler authorized dealers. To find a local Kohler authorized
dealer visit KohlerEngines.com or call 1-800-544-2444 (U.S. and Canada).
FUEL RECOMMENDATIONS
WARNING
Explosive Fuel can cause fires and severe
burns.
Do not fill fuel tank while engine is hot or
running.
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can
explode if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved
containers, in well ventilated, unoccupied buildings,
away from sparks or flames. Spilled fuel could ignite
if it comes in contact with hot parts or sparks from
ignition. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CH940
Command Engine
Horizontal Shaft
Numerical Designation
Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CH940-0001
Serial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3923500328
Year Manufactured Code Factory Code
Code Year
39 2009
40 2010
41 2011
Closure Plate
Closure Plate Fastener 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.)
Connecting Rod
Cap Fastener (torque in increments) 11.3 N·m (100 in. lb.)
Control Bracket
Mounting Screw (into intake manifold from air cleaner) 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.)
3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
4
Exceeding maximum angle of operation may cause engine damage from insufficient lubrication.
5
Lubricate threads with engine oil prior to assembly.
6
Any and all horsepower (hp) references by Kohler are Certified Power Ratings and per SAE J1940 & J1995 hp
standards. Details on Certified Power Ratings can be found at KohlerEngines.com.
62 690 01 Rev. C KohlerEngines.com 7
Specifications
Control Panel
M6 screw 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.) into new holes
7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.) into used holes
M5 screws 6.2 N·m (55 in. lb.) into new holes
4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into used holes
Crankcase
Breather Cover Fastener 5.7 N·m (51 in. lb.)
Oil Drain Plug 21.4 N·m (16 ft. lb.)
Cylinder Head
Cylinder Head Fastener (torque in 2 increments)
Head Bolt first to 22.6 N·m (200 in. lb.)
finally to 45.2 N·m (400 in. lb.)
Pipe Plug (3/4 in.) 28.25 N·m (250 in. lb.)
Rocker Arm Screw 14.6 N·m (130 in. lb.)
Debris Screen
Hex Stud 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.)
Mounting Screw 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.)
Front Drive Shaft Screw (into flywheel) 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.)
Fan/Flywheel
Fan Fastener 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.)
Flywheel Retaining Screw 67.8 N·m (50 ft . lb.)
Governor
Governor Lever Nut 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.)
Governor Yoke Mounting Screw 2.2 N·m (20 in. lb.)
Ignition
Spark Plug 27 N·m (20 ft. lb.)
Ignition Module Fastener 6.2 N·m (55 in. lb.) into new holes
4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into used holes
Rectifier-Regulator Fastener 2.0 N·m (18 in. lb.)
Muffler
Retaining Nut 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.)
M6 Screw 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.)
M8 Screw 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.)
Oil Cooler
Mounting Screws 2.2 N·m (20 in. lb.)
3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
5
Lubricate threads with engine oil prior to assembly.
8 KohlerEngines.com 62 690 01 Rev. C
Specifications
Oil Pump
Mounting Screw 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.) into new holes
6.7 N·m (60 in. lb.) into used holes
Oil SentryTM
Pressure Switch 10.1 N·m (90 in. lb.)
Reservoir (oil)
Mounting Screw 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.)
Solenoid (starter)
Mounting Hardware 4.0-6.0 N·m (35-53 in. lb.)
Nut, Positive (+) Brush Lead 8.0-11.0 N·m (71-97 in. lb.)
Starter Assembly
Thru Bolt 5.6-9.0 N·m (49-79 in. lb.)
Mounting Screw 15.3 N·m (135 in. lb.)
Brush Holder Mounting Screw 2.5-3.3 N·m (22-29 in. lb.)
Stator
Mounting Screw 6.2 N·m (55 in. lb.)
Valve Cover
Valve Cover Fastener 13.6 N·m (120 in. lb.)
Camshaft
End Play 0.3/1.3 mm (0.011/0.051 in.)
Running Clearance 0.025/0.063 mm (0.0010/0.0025 in.)
Bore I.D.
New 20.000/20.025 mm (0.7874/0.7884 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 20.038 mm (0.7889 in.)
Bearing Surface O.D.
New 19.962/19.975 mm (0.7859/0.7864 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 19.959 mm (0.7858 in.)
Cam Lobe Profile (minimum dimension, measured from base circle
to top of lobe)
Exhaust 35 mm (1.3779 in.)
Intake 34.1 mm 35 mm (1.3779 in.)
(1.3425 in.)
3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
5
Lubricate threads with engine oil prior to assembly.
62 690 01 Rev. C KohlerEngines.com 9
Specifications
Connecting Rod
Crankpin End I.D. @ 70°F
New 44.030/44.037 mm (1.7334/1.7337 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 0.070 mm (0.0028 in.)
Connecting Rod-to-Crankpin Running Clearance
New 0.030/0.055 mm (0.0012/0.0022 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 0.070 mm (0.0028 in.)
Connecting Rod-to-Crankpin Side Clearance 0.30/0.59 mm (0.0118/0.0232 in.)
Connecting Rod-to-Piston Pin Running Clearance 0.015/0.028 mm (0.0006/0.0011 in.)
Piston Pin End I.D. @ 70°F
New 19.023/19.015 mm (0.7489/0.7486 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 19.036 mm (0.7494 in.)
Crankcase
Governor Cross Shaft Bore I.D.
New 8.025/8.050 mm (0.3159/0.3169 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 8.088 mm (0.3184 in.)
Crankshaft
End Play (free) 0.30/1.50 mm (0.011/0.059 in.)
Crankshaft Bore (in crankcase)
New, Without Main Bearing 50.00/50.025 mm (1.9685/1.969 in.)
With Main Bearing Installed 45.040/45.145 mm (1.7732/1.7773 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 45.158 mm (1.7778 in.)
Crankshaft to Sleeve Bearing (in crankcase) Running Clearance
New 0.040/0.167 mm (0.0015/0.0065 in.)
Crankshaft Bore (in closure plate)
New, Without Bearing 50.025/50.00 mm (1.9694/1.9685 in.)
Crankshaft to Sleeve Bearing (in closure plate) Running Clearance
New 0.040/0.167 mm (0.0015/0.0065 in.)
Closure Plate End Main Bearing Journal
O.D. - New 44.978/45.00 mm (1.770/1.771 in.)
O.D. - Max. Wear Limit 44.90 mm (1.767 in.)
Max. Taper 0.022 mm (0.0009 in.)
Max. Out-of-Round 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.)
Connecting Rod Journal
O.D. - New 43.982/44.000 mm (1.731/1.732 in.)
O.D. - Max. Wear Limit 43.97 mm (1.731 in.)
Max. Taper 0.018 mm (0.0007 in.)
Max. Out-of-Round 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.)
Width 53.00/53.09 mm (2.0866/2.0901 in.)
Crankshaft T.I.R.
PTO End, Crank in Engine 0.279 mm (0.0110 in.)
Entire Crank, in V-Blocks 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.)
Flywheel End Main Bearing Journal
O.D. - New 44.978/45.00 mm (1.770/1.771 in.)
O.D. - Max. Wear Limit 44.90 mm (1.767 in.)
Max. Taper 0.022 mm (0.0009 in.)
Max. Out-of-Round 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.)
Cylinder Bore
Cylinder Bore I.D.
New 90.000/90.025 mm (3.543/3.544 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 90.075 mm (3.546 in.)
Max. Taper 0.013 mm (0.00051 in.)
Max. Out-of-Round 0.013 mm (0.00051 in.)
3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
10 KohlerEngines.com 62 690 01 Rev. C
Specifications
Cylinder Head
Max. Out-of-Flatness 0.076 mm (0.003 in.)
Governor
Governor Cross Shaft-to-Crankcase Running Clearance 0.025/0.087 mm (0.0009/0.0034 in.)
Governor Cross Shaft O.D. 7.963/8.000 mm (0.3135/0.3149 in.)
New 7.936 mm (0.3124 in.)
Max. Wear Limit
Governor Gear Shaft-to-Governor Gear Running Clearance 0.070/0.160 mm (0.0027/0.0063 in.)
Governor Gear Shaft O.D.
New 5.990/6.000 mm (0.2358/0.2362 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 5.977 mm (0.2353 in.)
Ignition
Spark Plug Gap 0.76 mm (0.030 in.)
Ignition Module Air Gap 0.28/0.33 mm (0.011/0.013 in.)
Torque Conversions
N·m = in. lb. x 0.113 in. lb. = N·m x 8.85
N·m = ft. lb. x 1.356 ft. lb. = N·m x 0.737
Certain quality tools are designed to help you perform specific disassembly, repair, and reassembly procedures. By
using these tools, you can properly service engines easier, faster, and safer! In addition, you’ll increase your service
capabilities and customer satisfaction by decreasing engine downtime.
Here is a list of tools and their source.
SEPARATE TOOL SUPPLIERS
Kohler Tools SE Tools Design Technology Inc.
Contact your local Kohler source of 415 Howard St. 768 Burr Oak Drive
supply. Lapeer, MI 48446 Westmont, IL 60559
Phone 810-664-2981 Phone 630-920-1300
Toll Free 800-664-2981 Fax 630-920-0011
Fax 810-664-8181
TOOLS
Description Source/Part No.
Alcohol Content Tester Kohler 25 455 11-S
For testing alcohol content (%) in reformulated/oxygenated fuels.
Camshaft Endplay Plate SE Tools KLR-82405
For checking camshaft endplay.
Camshaft Seal Protector (Aegis) SE Tools KLR-82417
For protecting seal during camshaft installation.
Cylinder Leakdown Tester Kohler 25 761 05-S
For checking combustion retention and if cylinder, piston, rings, or valves are worn.
Individual component available: Design Technology Inc.
Adapter 12 mm x 14 mm (Required for leakdown test on XT-6 engines) DTI-731-03
Dealer Tool Kit (Domestic) Kohler 25 761 39-S
Complete kit of Kohler required tools.
Components of 25 761 39-S
Ignition System Tester Kohler 25 455 01-S
Cylinder Leakdown Tester Kohler 25 761 05-S
Oil Pressure Test Kit Kohler 25 761 06-S
Rectifier-Regulator Tester (120 V AC/60Hz) Kohler 25 761 20-S
Dealer Tool Kit (International) Kohler 25 761 42-S
Complete kit of Kohler required tools.
Components of 25 761 42-S
Ignition System Tester Kohler 25 455 01-S
Cylinder Leakdown Tester Kohler 25 761 05-S
Oil Pressure Test Kit Kohler 25 761 06-S
Rectifier-Regulator Tester (240 V AC/50Hz) Kohler 25 761 41-S
Digital Vacuum/Pressure Tester Design Technology Inc.
For checking crankcase vacuum. DTI-721-01
Individual component available: Design Technology Inc.
Rubber Adapter Plug DTI-721-10
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) Diagnostic Software Kohler 25 761 23-S
For Laptop or Desktop PC.
EFI Service Kit Kohler 24 761 01-S
For troubleshooting and setting up an EFI engine.
Components of 24 761 01-S Design Technology Inc.
Fuel Pressure Tester DTI-019
Noid Light DTI-021
90° Adapter DTI-023
In-line "T" Fitting DTI-035
Code Plug, Red Wire DTI-027
Code Plug, Blue Wire DTI-029
Shrader Valve Adapter Hose DTI-037
Flywheel Holding Tool (CS) SE Tools KLR-82407
For holding flywheel of CS series engines.
Flywheel Puller SE Tools KLR-82408
For properly removing flywheel from engine.
Flywheel Strap Wrench SE Tools KLR-82409
For holding flywheel during removal.
TOOLS
Description Source/Part No.
Hydraulic Valve Lifter Tool Kohler 25 761 38-S
For removing and installing hydraulic lifters.
Ignition System Tester Kohler 25 455 01-S
For testing output on all systems, including CD.
Inductive Tachometer (Digital) Design Technology Inc.
For checking operating speed (RPM) of an engine. DTI-110
Offset Wrench (K and M Series) Kohler 52 455 04-S
For removing and reinstalling cylinder barrel retaining nuts.
Oil Pressure Test Kit Kohler 25 761 06-S
For testing/verifying oil pressure on pressure lubricated engines.
Radiator Tester Kohler 25 455 10-S
For pressure testing radiator and cap on Aegis liquid-cooled engines.
Rectifier-Regulator Tester (120 volt current) Kohler 25 761 20-S
Rectifier-Regulator Tester (240 volt current) Kohler 25 761 41-S
For testing rectifier-regulators.
Components of 25 761 20-S and 25 761 41-S Design Technology Inc.
CS-PRO Regulator Test Harness DTI-031
Special Regulator Test Harness with Diode DTI-033
Spark Advance Module (SAM) Tester Kohler 25 761 40-S
For testing SAM (ASAM and DSAM) on engines with SMART-SPARK™.
Starter Servicing Kit (All Starters) SE Tools KLR-82411
For removing and reinstalling drive retaining rings and brushes.
Individual component available:
Starter Brush Holding Tool (Solenoid Shift) SE Tools KLR-82416
Triad/OHC Timing Tool Set Kohler 28 761 01-S
For holding cam gears and crankshaft in timed position while installing timing belt.
Valve Guide Reamer (K and M Series) Design Technology Inc.
For properly sizing valve guides after installation. DTI-K828
Valve Guide Reamer O.S. (Command Series) Kohler 25 455 12-S
For reaming worn valve guides to accept replacement oversize valves. Can be used
in low-speed drill press or with handle below for hand reaming.
Reamer Handle Design Technology Inc.
For hand reaming using Kohler 25 455 12-S reamer. DTI-K830
Valve Guide Service Kit (Courage, Aegis, Command, OHC) SE Tools KLR-82415
For servicing worn valve guides.
AIDS
Description Source/Part No.
Camshaft Lubricant (Valspar ZZ613) Kohler 25 357 14-S
Dielectric Grease (GE/Novaguard G661) Kohler 25 357 11-S
Dielectric Grease Loctite® 51360
Kohler Electric Starter Drive Lubricant (Inertia Drive) Kohler 52 357 01-S
Kohler Electric Starter Drive Lubricant (Solenoid Shift) Kohler 52 357 02-S
RTV Silicone Sealant
Loctite® 5900® Heavy Body in 4 oz. aerosol dispenser. Kohler 25 597 07-S
Only oxime-based, oil resistant RTV sealants, such as those listed, are approved Loctite® 5910®
for use. Loctite® Nos. 5900® or 5910® are recommended for best sealing Loctite® Ultra Black 598™
characteristics. Loctite® Ultra Blue 587™
Loctite® Ultra Copper 5920™
Spline Drive Lubricant Kohler 25 357 12-S
A flywheel holding tool can be made out of an old junk A spanner wrench to lift rocker arms or turn crankshaft
flywheel ring gear and used in place of a strap wrench. may be made out of an old junk connecting rod.
1. Using an abrasive cut-off wheel, cut out a six tooth 1. Find a used connecting rod from a 10 HP or larger
segment of ring gear as shown. engine. Remove and discard rod cap.
2. Grind off any burrs or sharp edges. 2. Remove studs of a Posi-Lock rod or grind off
3. Invert segment and place it between ignition bosses aligning steps of a Command rod, so joint surface is
on crankcase so tool teeth engage flywheel ring flat.
gear teeth. Bosses will lock tool and flywheel in 3. Find a 1 in. long capscrew with correct thread size to
position for loosening, tightening, or removing with a match threads in connecting rod.
puller. 4. Use a flat washer with correct I.D. to slip on
capscrew and approximately 1 in. O.D. Assemble
capscrew and washer to joint surface of rod.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
When troubles occur, be sure to check simple causes which, at first, may seem too obvious to be considered. For
example, a starting problem could be caused by an empty fuel tank.
Some general common causes of engine troubles are listed below and vary by engine specification. Use these to
locate causing factors.
Engine Cranks But Will Not Start Engine Will Not Crank
● Battery connected backwards. ● Battery is discharged.
● Blown fuse. ● Faulty electric starter or solenoid.
● Carburetor solenoid malfunction. ● Faulty key switch or ignition switch.
● Choke not closing. ● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty.
● Clogged fuel line or fuel filter. ● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground
● Diode in wiring harness failed in open circuit mode. ignition kill circuit.
● DSAI or DSAM malfunction. ● Pawls not engaging in drive cup.
● Empty fuel tank. ● Seized internal engine components.
● Faulty electronic control unit.
● Faulty ignition coil(s). Engine Runs But Misses
● Faulty spark plug(s). ● Carburetor adjusted incorrectly.
● Fuel pump malfunction-vacuum hose clogged or ● Engine overheated.
leaking. ● Faulty spark plug(s).
● Fuel shut-off valve closed. ● Ignition module(s) faulty or improperly gapped.
● Ignition module(s) faulty or improperly gapped. ● Incorrect crankshaft position sensor air gap.
● Insufficient voltage to electronic control unit. ● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty.
● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty. ● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground
● Key switch or kill switch in OFF position. ignition kill circuit.
● Low oil level. ● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture).
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture). ● Spark plug lead(s) disconnected.
● SMART-SPARKTM malfunction. ● Spark plug lead boot loose on plug.
● Spark plug lead(s) disconnected. ● Spark plug lead loose.
Engine Starts But Does Not Keep Running Engine Will Not Idle
● Faulty carburetor. ● Engine overheated.
● Faulty cylinder head gasket. ● Faulty spark plug(s).
● Faulty or misadjusted choke or throttle controls. ● Idle fuel adjusting needle(s) improperly set.
● Fuel pump malfunction-vacuum hose clogged or ● Idle speed adjusting screw improperly set.
leaking. ● Inadequate fuel supply.
● Intake system leak. ● Low compression.
● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground ● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture).
ignition kill circuit. ● Restricted fuel tank cap vent.
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture).
● Restricted fuel tank cap vent. Engine Overheats
● Cooling fan broken.
Engine Starts Hard ● Excessive engine load.
● Clogged fuel line or fuel filter. ● Fan belt failed/off.
● Engine overheated. ● Faulty carburetor.
● Faulty ACR mechanism. ● High crankcase oil level.
● Faulty or misadjusted choke or throttle controls. ● Lean fuel mixture.
● Faulty spark plug(s). ● Low cooling system fluid level.
● Flywheel key sheared. ● Low crankcase oil level.
● Fuel pump malfunction-vacuum hose clogged or ● Radiator, and/or cooling system components clogged,
leaking. restricted, or leaking.
● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty. ● Water pump belt failed/broken.
● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground ● Water pump malfunction.
ignition kill circuit.
● Low compression. Engine Knocks
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture). ● Excessive engine load.
● Weak spark. ● Hydraulic lifter malfunction.
● Incorrect oil viscosity/type.
● Internal wear or damage.
● Low crankcase oil level.
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture).
CLEANING ENGINE
WARNING
Cleaning Solvents can cause severe injury or
death.
Use only in well ventilated areas away from
ignition sources.
Carburetor cleaners and solvents are extremely
flammable. Follow cleaner manufacturer’s warnings
and instructions on its proper and safe use. Never use
gasoline as a cleaning agent.
Engine exhaust gases contain poisonous carbon Keep hands, feet, hair, and clothing away from all
monoxide. Carbon monoxide is odorless, colorless, moving parts to prevent injury. Never operate engine
and can cause death if inhaled. with covers, shrouds, or guards removed.
A partial vacuum should be present in crankcase when engine is operating. Pressure in crankcase (normally caused
by a clogged or improperly assembled breather) can cause oil to be forced out at oil seals, gaskets, or other available
spots.
Crankcase vacuum is best measured with either a water manometer or a vacuum gauge. Complete instructions are
provided in kits.
To test crankcase vacuum with manometer: To test crankcase vacuum with vacuum/pressure gauge:
1. Insert rubber stopper into oil fill hole. Be sure pinch 1. Remove dipstick or oil fill plug/cap.
clamp is installed on hose and use tapered adapters 2. Install adapter into oil fill//dipstick tube opening,
to connect hose between stopper and one upside down over end of a small diameter dipstick
manometer tube. Leave other tube open to tube, or directly into engine if a tube is not used.
atmosphere. Check that water level in manometer is Insert barbed gauge fitting into hole in stopper.
at 0 line. Make sure pinch clamp is closed.
3. Run engine and observe gauge reading.
2. Start engine and run no-load high speed.
Analog tester–needle movement to left of 0 is a
3. Open clamp and note water level in tube. vacuum, and movement to right indicates a pressure.
Level in engine side should be a minimum of 10.2 Digital tester–depress test button on top of tester.
cm (4 in.) above level in open side.
Crankcase vacuum should be a minimum of 10.2 cm
If level in engine side is less than specified (low/no (4 in.) of water. If reading is below specification, or if
vacuum), or level in engine side is lower than level in pressure is present, check table below for possible
open side (pressure), check for conditions in table causes and conclusions.
below.
4. Close pinch clamp before stopping engine.
Condition Conclusion
Crankcase breather clogged or inoperative. NOTE: If breather is integral part of valve cover and
cannot be serviced separately, replace valve
cover and recheck pressure.
Disassemble breather, clean parts thoroughly, check
sealing surfaces for flatness, reassemble, and recheck
pressure.
Seals and/or gaskets leaking. Loose or improperly torque Replace all worn or damaged seals and gaskets. Make
fasteners. sure all fasteners are tightened securely. Use appropriate
torque valves and sequences when necessary.
Piston blow by or leaky valves (confirm by inspecting Recondition piston, rings, cylinder bore, valves and
components). valves guides.
Restricted exhaust. Check exhaust screen/spark arrestor (if equipped). Clean
or replace as needed. Repair or replace any other
damaged/restricted muffler or exhaust system parts.
COMPRESSION TEST
For Command Twins:
A compression test is best performed on a warm engine. Clean any dirt or debris away from base of spark plug(s)
before removing them. Be sure choke is off, and throttle is wide open during test. Compression should be at least 160
psi and should not vary more than 15% between cylinders.
All other models:
These engines are equipped with an automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism. It is difficult to obtain an
accurate compression reading because of ACR mechanism. As an alternative, use cylinder leakdown test described
below.
CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TEST
A cylinder leakdown test can be a valuable alternative to a compression test. By pressurizing combustion chamber
from an external air source you can determine if valves or rings are leaking, and how badly.
Cylinder leakdown tester is a relatively simple, inexpensive leakdown tester for small engines. This tester includes a
quick-connect for attaching adapter hose and a holding tool.
1. Run engine for 3-5 minutes to warm it up.
2. Remove spark plug(s) and air filter from engine.
3. Rotate crankshaft until piston (of cylinder being tested) is at top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke. Hold
engine in this position while testing. Holding tool supplied with tester can be used if PTO end of crankshaft is
accessible. Lock holding tool onto crankshaft. Install a 3/8 in. breaker bar into hole/slot of holding tool, so it is
perpendicular to both holding tool and crankshaft PTO.
If flywheel end is more accessible, use a breaker bar and socket on flywheel nut/screw to hold it in position. An
assistant may be needed to hold breaker bar during testing. If engine is mounted in a piece of equipment, it may
be possible to hold it by clamping or wedging a driven component. Just be certain that engine cannot rotate off of
TDC in either direction.
4. Install adapter into spark plug hole, but do not attach it to tester at this time.
5. Turn regulator knob completely counterclockwise.
6. Connect an air source of at least 50 psi to tester.
7. Turn regulator knob clockwise (increase direction) until gauge needle is in yellow set area at low end of scale.
8. Connect tester quick-connect to adapter hose. While firmly holding engine at TDC, gradually open tester valve.
Note gauge reading and listen for escaping air at combustion air intake, exhaust outlet, and crankcase breather.
Condition Conclusion
Air escaping from crankcase breather. Ring or cylinder worn.
Air escaping from exhaust system. Defective exhaust valve/improper seating.
Air escaping from intake. Defective intake valve/improper seating.
Gauge reading in low (green) zone. Piston rings and cylinder in good condition.
Gauge reading in moderate (yellow) zone. Engine is still usable, but there is some wear present.
Customer should start planning for overhaul or
replacement.
Gauge reading in high (red) zone. Rings and/or cylinder have considerable wear. Engine
should be reconditioned or replaced.
WARNING
Hot Parts can cause severe burns.
Do not touch engine while operating or just
after stopping.
Never operate engine with heat shields or guards
removed.
Proper cooling is essential. To prevent over heating,
clean screens, cooling fins, and other external surfaces
of engine. Avoid spraying water at wiring harness or any
electrical components. Refer to Maintenance Schedule.
Condition Conclusion
Fuel at tip of spark plug. Fuel is reaching combustion chamber.
No fuel at tip of spark plug. Check fuel flow from fuel tank (step 2).
Fuel flows from fuel line. Check for faulty fuel pump (step 3).
If fuel pump is working, check for faulty carburetor. Refer
to Carburetor.
No fuel flow from fuel line. Check fuel tank cap vent, fuel pickup screen, in-line
filter, shut-off valve, and fuel line. Correct any observed
problem and reconnect line.
Fuel line condition. Check for a clogged fuel line. If fuel line is unobstructed,
check for overfilled crankcase and/or oil in pulse line. If
checks don't reveal cause of problem, replace pump.
CARBURETOR
D
E
H
F AB
G Z
AA
B I AC
AF
C AD
AE
A
K
U L
J
T
Q
R
W N
V
M
P
X Y
S O
Engines in this series are equipped with a two-barrel, 4. Make sure air cleaner base and carburetor are
side-draft carburetor with fixed main jets on a matching securely fastened to engine using gaskets in good
intake manifold. Carburetor features a self-relieving condition.
choke, serviceable slow jets, main jets, bowl drain and a 5. Make sure air cleaner element (including precleaner
fuel shutdown solenoid. if equipped) is clean and all air cleaner components
are fastened securely.
Troubleshooting Checklist
6. Make sure ignition system, governor system,
When engine starts hard, runs rough, or stalls at low exhaust system, and throttle and choke controls are
idle speed, check these areas before adjusting or operating properly.
disassembling carburetor.
1. Make sure fuel tank is filled with clean, fresh
gasoline.
2. Make sure fuel tank cap vent is not blocked and is
operating properly.
3. Make sure fuel is reaching carburetor. This includes
checking fuel shut-off valve, fuel tank filter screen,
in-line fuel filter, fuel lines and fuel pump for
restrictions or faulty components as necessary.
NOTE: Engines will have fixed low idle or limiter caps 1. Perform removal procedures for appropriate air
on idle fuel adjusting needles. Step 2 can only cleaner and carburetor outlined in Disassembly.
be performed within limits allowed by cap. Do 2. Clean exterior surfaces of dirt or foreign material
not attempt to remove limiter caps. before disassembling carburetor. Remove screws
1. Place throttle control into idle or slow position. Adjust and carefully separate fuel bowl from carburetor. Do
low idle speed to 1200 RPM. Follow Low Idle Speed not damage fuel bowl O-rings. Transfer any
(RPM) Adjustment. remaining fuel into an approved container. Save all
2. Low idle fuel needle(s) setting: place throttle into idle parts. Fuel can also be drained prior to bowl removal
or slow position. by loosening/removing bowl drain screw.
a. Turn 1 low idle fuel adjusting needle out 3. Remove screw and lift out old float, pin, and inlet
(counterclockwise) from preliminary setting until needle. Discard all of parts. Seat for inlet needle is
engine speed decreases (rich). Note position of not serviceable and should not be removed.
needle. Now turn adjusting needle in (clockwise). 4. Clean carburetor bowl and inlet seat areas as
Engine speed may increase, then it will decrease required. To reassemble fuel bowl go to step 23,
as needle is turned in (lean). Note position of otherwise go to step 5.
needle. Set adjusting needle midway between 5. Carefully remove main jets from carburetor. Note
rich and lean settings. and mark jets by location for proper reassembly.
b. Repeat procedure on other low idle adjustment Main jets may be size/side specific. After main jets
needle. are removed, main nozzles can be removed out
3. Recheck/adjust Low Idle Speed (RPM) to specified through bottom of main towers. Note orientation/
setting. direction of nozzles. End with 2 raised shoulders
should be out/down adjacent to main jets. Save
High Speed (RPM) Adjustment parts for cleaning and reuse.
1. With engine running, move throttle control to fast.
6. Remove screw securing flat washer and ground lead
2. Turn inner adjustment screw outward to decrease, or (if equipped) from top of carburetor, then carefully
inward to increase RPM speed. pull (lift) out slow jets. Slow jets may be sized/side
3. Stop when desired RPM speed is obtained. specific. Mark or tag jets for proper reassembly. Note
small O-ring on bottom of each jet. Save parts for
Carburetor Servicing cleaning and reuse unless a jet kit is also being
installed. Clean slow jets using compressed air. Do
not use wire or carburetor cleaner.
WARNING
7. Remove idle speed (RPM) adjustment screw and
Accidental Starts can cause severe injury or spring from carburetor. Discard parts.
death.
Carburetor is now disassembled for appropriate
Disconnect and ground spark plug lead(s) cleaning and installation of parts in overhaul kit.
before servicing. Further disassembly is not necessary. Throttle shaft
assembly, fuel inlet seat, idle fuel adjustment screws
Before working on engine or equipment, disable with limiter, and carburetor body, are non-serviceable
engine as follows: 1) Disconnect spark plug lead(s). 2) items and should not be removed. Choke shaft
Disconnect negative (–) battery cable from battery. assembly is serviceable, however it should not be
NOTE: Main and slow jets are fixed and side specific removed unless a choke repair kit will be installed.
and can be removed if required. Fixed jets for To install choke repair kit go to step 8, otherwise go
high altitudes are available. to step 18.
● Inspect carburetor body for cracks, holes, and other 8. Remove and discard plastic cap from end of choke
wear or damage. lever/shaft assembly.
● Inspect float for cracks, holes, and missing or 9. Note position of spring legs and choke plate for
damaged float tabs. Check float hinge and shaft for correct reassembly later. Remove screws attaching
wear or damage. choke plate to choke shaft. Pull shaft out of
● Inspect fuel inlet needle and seat for wear or damage. carburetor body, note preload of spring and discard
● Inspect spring loaded choke plate to make sure it removed parts.
moves freely on shaft.
10. Use a screw extractor (easy-out) and remove
Float Replacement/Overhaul/Choke Repair original choke shaft bushing with old choke lever
NOTE: Inlet needle center pin is spring loaded. Make from carburetor housing. Save bushing to use as a
sure float rests against fuel inlet needle without driver for installing new bushing. Discard old lever.
depressing center pin.
11. Clean I.D. of both choke shaft bores as required.
If symptoms described in Troubleshooting-Carburetor
Related Causes indicate float level problems, remove 12. Insert new bushing through new choke lever from
carburetor from engine to check and/or replace float. outside and start bushing in outer shaft bore.
Use a float kit to replace float, pin, float valve, clip, and Position choke lever so protruding boss on
screw. carburetor housing is between 2 stops formed in
choke lever.
13. Turn old bushing upside down and use it as a driver 26. Correct float height setting is 17 mm (0.669 in.) ± 1.5
to carefully press or tap new bushing into carburetor mm (0.059 in.), measured from float bottom to body
body until it bottoms. Check that choke lever pivots of carburetor. Replace float if height is different than
freely without restriction or binding. specified. DO NOT attempt to adjust by bending float
14. Install new return spring onto new choke shaft, so tab.
outboard leg of spring is behind formed stop on end 27. When proper float height is obtained, carefully
of choke shaft. reinstall fuel bowl onto carburetor, using new
Make sure it stays in this location during following O-rings. Secure with original screws. Torque screws
step. to 2.5 N·m (22 in. lb.) ± 0.3 N·m (3 in. lb.).
15. Slide choke shaft and spring into carburetor. Pivot 28. Set idle mixture screws at midpoint of available
(preload) shaft 3/4 turn counterclockwise with inner adjustment as a preliminary setting.
leg of spring against formed stop within choke lever 29. Use new mounting gaskets for air cleaner and
as originally assembled. Outer leg of spring must still carburetor. Reinstall carburetor and disassembled
be behind formed stop of choke shaft. components following Reassembly procedures.
16. Place a drop of Loctite® 222MS™ on threads of each 30. Reconnect spark plug leads and negative battery
new screw. Position and install new choke plate to cable. Start engine and perform Low Idle Speed
flat side of choke shaft. Start screws. Close choke Adjustment and Low Idle Fuel Needle(s) settings.
and check plate alignment within carburetor throat, HIGH ALTITUDE OPERATION
then tighten screws securely. Do not overtighten.
This engine may require a high altitude carburetor
17. Check for proper operation and free movement of kit to ensure correct engine operation at altitudes
parts. Install new cap. above 1219 meters (4000 ft.). To obtain high
18. Clean carburetor body, main jets, vent ports, seats, altitude kit information or to find a Kohler
etc., using a good commercially available carburetor authorized dealer visit KohlerEngines.com or call
solvent. Keep away from plastic or rubber parts if 1-800-544-2444 (U.S. and Canada).
non-compatible. Use clean, dry compressed air to This engine should be operated in its original
blow out internal channels and ports. Do not use configuration below 1219 meters (4000 ft.) as damage
metal tools or wire to clean orifices and jets. Inspect may occur if high altitude carburetor kit is installed and
and thoroughly check carburetor for cracks, wear, or operated below 1219 meters (4000 ft.).
damage. Inspect fuel inlet seat for wear or damage.
Check spring loaded choke plate to make sure it
moves freely on shaft.
19. Install main nozzles into towers of carburetor body.
End of main nozzles with 2 raised shoulders should
be out/down (adjacent to main jets). Make sure
nozzles are completely bottomed. Carefully install
main jets into towers of carburetor body on
appropriate side, as identified when removal was
performed.
20. Make sure O-ring near bottom of each slow jet is
new, or in good condition. Align and insert slow jets
into top of carburetor.
21. Install large flat retaining washer and secure with
mounting screw, attaching ground lead if originally
secured by screw.
22. Install new idle speed (RPM) adjustment screw and
spring onto carburetor. Thread in until 3 or 4 threads
are exposed, as an initial adjustment.
23. Attach inlet needle to plastic tang of float with wire
clip. Formed 90° lip should point up, with needle
valve hanging down.
24. Install float and inlet needle down into seat and
carburetor body. Install new pivot pin through float
hinge and secure with new retaining screw.
25. Hold carburetor body so float assembly hangs
vertically and rests lightly against fuel inlet needle.
Inlet needle should be fully seated but center pin of
needle (on retainer clip end) should not be
depressed. Check float height adjustment.
Be sure to measure from casting surface, not rubber
gasket, if still attached.
GOVERNOR
Governed speed setting is determined by position of throttle control. It can be variable or constant, depending on
engine application.
Governor is designed to hold engine speed constant under changing load conditions. Most engines are equipped with
a centrifugal flyweight mechanical governor. Governor gear/flyweight mechanism of mechanical governor is mounted
inside crankcase and is driven off gear on camshaft.
Governor Components
J
H
A
H
I B
Inside Engine G
F
E
This engine uses a full pressure lubrication system which delivers oil under pressure to crankshaft, camshaft,
connecting rod bearing surfaces, and hydraulic valve lifters.
A high-efficiency gerotor oil pump maintains high oil flow and oil pressure, even at low speeds and high operating
temperatures. A pressure relief valve limits maximum pressure of system. Closure plate must be removed to service
oil pickup, pressure relief valve, and oil pump.
Lubrication Components
A H
G
I
F
B
C E
A Oil Filter B Back Side C Oil Cooler D Cylinder Shroud E Oil Drain Plug
F Oil Fill Cap G Dipstick Tube H Pressure Switch I Dipstick
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS CHANGE OIL AND FILTER
Refer to Maintenance. Change oil while engine is warm.
CHECK OIL LEVEL 1. Clean area around oil fill cap/dipstick and drain plug.
NOTE: To prevent extensive engine wear or damage, Remove drain plug and oil fill cap/dipstick. Allow oil
never run engine with oil level below or above to drain completely.
operating range indicator on dipstick. 2. Clean area around oil filter; remove filter; wipe off
Ensure engine is cool. Clean oil fill/dipstick areas of any mounting surface. Reinstall drain plug and torque to
debris. 21.4 N·m (16 ft. lb.).
1. Remove dipstick; wipe oil off. 3. Place new filter in shallow pan with open end up. Fill
with new oil until oil reaches bottom of threads. Allow
2. Reinsert dipstick into tube; press completely down. 2 minutes for oil to be absorbed by filter material.
3. Remove dipstick; check oil level. Level should be at 4. Apply a thin film of clean oil to rubber gasket on new
top of indicator on dipstick. filter.
4. If oil is low on indicator, add oil up to top of indicator 5. Refer to instructions on oil filter for proper
mark. installation.
5. Reinstall and secure dipstick. 6. Fill crankcase with new oil. Level should be at top of
indicator on dipstick.
7. Reinstall oil fill cap/dipstick and tighten securely.
8. Start engine; check for oil leaks. Stop engine; correct
leaks. Recheck oil level.
9. Dispose of used oil and filter in accordance with
local ordinances.
OIL COOLER
NOTE: Oil cooler is mounted under cylinder shroud.
Removal of cylinder shroud is necessary to
access oil cooler.
1. Clean fins with a brush or compressed air.
2. Remove screws securing oil cooler and tilt to clean
back side.
3. Reinstall oil cooler and torque to 2.2 N·m (20 in. lb.).
OIL SENTRY™ (if equipped)
This switch is designed to prevent engine from starting
in a low oil or no oil condition. Oil Sentry™ may not shut
down a running engine before damage occurs. In some
applications this switch may activate a warning signal.
Read your equipment manuals for more information.
Oil Sentry™ pressure switch is installed in closure plate
pressure port. On engines not equipped with Oil Sentry™
installation hole is sealed with a 1/8-27 N.P.T.F. pipe
plug.
Installation
1. Apply pipe sealant with Teflon® (Loctite® PST® 592™
Thread Sealant or equivalent) to threads of switch.
2. Install switch into tapped hole in closure plate.
3. Torque switch to 10.1 N·m (90 in. lb.).
Testing
Compressed air, a pressure regulator, pressure gauge,
and a continuity tester are required to test switch.
1. Connect continuity tester across blade terminal and
metal case of switch. With 0 psi pressure applied to
switch, tester should indicate continuity (switch
closed).
2. Gradually increase pressure to switch. As pressure
increases through range of 7-11 psi tester should
indicate a change to no continuity (switch open).
Switch should remain open as pressure is increased
to 90 psi maximum.
3. Gradually decrease pressure through range of 7-11
psi. Tester should indicate a change to continuity
(switch closed) down to 0 psi.
4. Replace switch if it does not operate as specified.
A
B
C D
A
B E
C D
Soft, sooty, black deposits indicate incomplete
combustion caused by a restricted air cleaner, over rich Kill Switch/
carburetion, weak ignition, or poor compression. A Off Position of B Air Gap
Overheated Key Switch
C Flywheel D Magnet
E Spark Plug F Ignition Modules
There are 2 different types of ignition systems used on
these engines. All systems use an ignition module which
energizes spark plug. Difference in system is in way
ignition timing is triggered.
Both ignition systems are designed to be trouble free for
life of engine. Other than periodically checking/replacing
spark plugs, no maintenance or timing adjustments
are necessary or possible. Mechanical systems do
Chalky, white deposits indicate very high combustion occasionally fail or break down. Refer to Troubleshooting
temperatures. This condition is usually accompanied to determine root of a reported problem.
by excessive gap erosion. Lean carburetor settings,
an intake air leak, or incorrect spark timing are normal Reported ignition problems are most often due to poor
causes for high combustion temperatures. connections. Before beginning test procedure, check
all external wiring. Be certain all ignition-related wires
BATTERY are connected, including spark plug leads. Be certain all
A 12-volt battery with 400 cold cranking amps (cca) is terminal connections fit snugly. Make sure ignition switch
generally recommended for starting in all conditions. A is in run position.
smaller capacity battery is often sufficient if an
application is started only in warmer temperatures. Refer
to following table for minimum capacities based on
anticipated ambient temperatures. Actual cold cranking
requirement depends on engine size, application, and
starting temperatures. Cranking requirements increase
as temperatures decrease and battery capacity shrinks.
Refer to equipment's operating instructions for specific
battery requirements.
Battery Size Recommendations
Temperature Battery Required
Above 32°F (0°C) 300 cca minimum
0°F to 32°F (-18°C to 0°C) 300 cca minimum
-5°F to 0°F (-21°C to -18°C) 300 cca minimum
-10°F (-23°C) or below 400 cca minimum
If battery charge is insufficient to turn over engine,
recharge battery.
Battery Maintenance
Regular maintenance is necessary to prolong battery
life.
Battery Test
To test battery, follow manufacturer's instructions.
W
F
A E
M
I B
H Q
X S
B
G
P N O
B K O
R C
T
U
M V V
J
D
L
A Blue B Red C Green D Violet (Charging)
E White (Ignition Kill) F Connector G Battery H Battery Positive
I Battery Negative J Starter K Rectifier-Regulator L Oil Sentry™
Flywheel Stator
M Spark Plug(s) N O Ignition Module(s) P Carburetor
Assembly
Intake Manifold Rectifier-Regulator
Q R Starter Solenoid Stud S Ground T
Screw Connector
Starter Solenoid White
U V W Polarity Ribs X Solenoid Lead
Tang (AC Charging Leads)
Wire Diagram-15/20/25 Amp Regulated Battery Charging System with Fixed Timing, Five Pin Connector, Key
Switch, and Fuse
H
I J O
N
K P
M
D D B G
L
B C
A
F G
B AI
AG B S
X AH
Q
Z B R
AD R
Y
AF
F T
AB
A B D G
U
V
AC
C
AJ AJ
S
AE
F
AA W
E
8
Not valid with indicator light or no pressure switch.
62 690 01 Rev. C KohlerEngines.com 33
Electrical System
M H D S
I G
N C
AE B
J
L B
K D T
AF
A G AG B
F AC
B X
R J
G W
B V
Q D
U
P A
AA F
J
AB W
Y
B AI
W
AD B
X
F B G
Z E O AH
G F
AH B
Green (Oil Sentry™
A Blue B Red C Pulse Signal)8 D Yellow (Accessory)
E Violet F White G Black H To Battery
I To Accessory J Ground K To Rectifier-Regulator L To Magneto
Rectifier-Regulator
M To Starter N Key Switch O P Battery
Connector
Oil Sentry™ Light
Q Battery Negative R Battery Positive S T Oil Sentry™
(Optional)
Flywheel Stator
U Carburetor V W Ignition Module(s) X Spark Plug(s)
Assembly
Y Rectifier-Regulator Z Starter AA Fuse AB Starter Solenoid Stud
Carburetor Mounting
AC AD Starter Solenoid Tang AE Connector (5-Circuit) AF Connector (1-Circuit)
Stud
White
AG Solenoid Lead AH AI Spark Plug Lead
(AC Charging Leads)
8
Not valid with indicator light or no pressure switch.
34 KohlerEngines.com 62 690 01 Rev. C
Electrical System
Wire Diagram-15/20/25 Amp Regulated Battery Charging System with DSAI Ignition and Four Pin Connector
(LP-NG Kohler Power Systems Application)
G H
A
AB
C E
Z
AE
S
Q
J A
K R
T
P
I
AA
Z
T
O F
T
D
C
L AD
S U
M
AD
V X
W Y
N
B
AC
Wire Diagram-15/20/25 Amp Regulated Battery Charging System with DSAI Ignition and Five Pin Connector
(Gasoline/LP-NG Non-Kohler Power Systems Application)
H I
B
AF
D X
A AE
S
K B W
T
L
F
Q V
J
U
X
T
R G T
M E
Y
Z
S
B
N Y AA AC
AB AD
O
C
P
A Blue B Red C Green D Orange
E Violet F White G Black H Connector
I Polarity Ribs J Battery K Battery Positive L Battery Negative
M Starter Solenoid Stud N Starter Solenoid Tang O Starter P Oil Sentry™
Q Rectifier-Regulator R Rectifier-Regulator S Spark Plug(s) T Ignition Module(s)
Connector
U Module Mounting V Flywheel Stator W Carburetor X Ground
Screw Assembly
Y White Z Spark Plug Lead AA Black (Ground) AB Red (B+)
(AC Charging Leads)
AC White (Shut Off) AD Green (LP/NG Switch) AE Solenoid Lead AF Carburetor Mounting
Stud
NOTE: 20 amp charging systems use a 15 amp stator with a 25 amp rectifier-regulator.
Most engines are equipped with a 15, 20, or 25 amp regulated charging system.
15/20/25 Amp Regulated Charging System
Stator
Stator is mounted on crankcase behind flywheel. Follow procedures in Disassembly and Reassembly if stator
replacement is necessary.
Rectifier-Regulator
NOTE: When installing rectifier-regulator, take note of terminal positions and install plug correctly.
NOTE: Disconnect all electrical connections attached to rectifier-regulator. Testing may be performed with rectifier-
regulator mounted or loose. Repeat applicable test procedure 2 or 3 times to determine condition of part.
Rectifier-regulator is mounted on backing shroud assembly. To replace it, disconnect plug, remove mounting screws,
and ground lead.
Testing rectifier-regulator may be performed as follows, using appropriate rectifier-regulator tester.
To test 20/25 amp rectifier-regulators: To test 15 amp rectifier-regulators:
1. Connect single lead adapter in between B+ (center) 1. Connect tester ground lead (with spring clamp) to
terminal of rectifier-regulator being tested and body of rectifier-regulator being tested.
squared single end of tandem adapter lead. 2. Connect tester red lead to B+ terminal of rectifier-
2. Connect tester ground lead (with spring clamp) to regulator and 2 black tester leads to 2 AC terminals.
body of rectifier-regulator. 3. Plug tester into proper AC outlet/power for tester
3. Connect red lead and 1 black lead to terminals on being used. Turn on power switch. POWER light
open end of tandem adapter lead (connections are should be illuminated and 1 of 4 status lights may be
not location specific). on as well. This does not represent condition of part.
4. Connect remaining black lead from tester to 1 outer 4. Press TEST button until a click is heard and then
AC terminal on rectifier-regulator. release. Momentarily 1 of 4 status lights will
5. Plug tester into proper AC outlet/power for tester illuminate indicating condition of part.
being used. Turn on power switch. POWER light
should be illuminated and 1 of 4 status lights may be
on as well. This does not represent condition of part.
6. Press TEST button until a click is heard and then
release. Momentarily 1 of 4 lights will illuminate
indicating partial condition of part.
Condition Conclusion
20/25 amp 15 amp
OK (green) light comes on and stays steady. Disconnect tester black lead Part is good and may be used.
attached to 1 AC terminal and
reconnect it to other AC terminal.
Repeat test. If OK (green) light
comes on again, part is good
and may be used.
NOTE: A flashing LOW light can also occur as Rectifier-regulator is faulty and should not be used.
a result of an inadequate ground lead
connection. Make certain connection
location is clean and clamp is secure.
Other lights come on.
To test charging system for no charge to battery: To test charging system for battery continuously charging
1. Insert an ammeter in B+ lead from rectifier-regulator. at high rate:
With engine running at 3600 RPM and B+ (at 1. With engine running at 3600 RPM, measure voltage
terminal on rectifier-regulator) to ground using a DC from B+ lead to ground using a DC voltmeter.
voltmeter.
If voltage is 13.8 volts or more, place a minimum Condition Conclusion
load of 5 amps (turn on lights if 60 watts or more, or Voltage is 14.7 volts or Charging system is OK.
place a 2.5 ohm, 100 watt resistor across battery less. Battery is unable to hold
terminals) on battery to reduce voltage. Observe charge; service or replace.
ammeter. Voltage is more than 14.7 Faulty rectifier-regulator;
volts. replace.
Condition Conclusion
Charge rate increases Charging system is OK
when load is applied. and battery was fully
charged.
Charge rate does not Test stator and rectifier-
increase when load is regulator (steps 2 and 3).
applied.
Solenoid Shift Starter Components 5. Remove commutator end plate assembly, containing
brush holder, brushes, springs, and locking caps.
H I Remove thrust washer from inside commutator end.
6. Remove frame from armature and drive end cap.
J 7. Remove drive lever pivot bushing and backing plate
(if equipped) from end cap.
G 8. Take out drive lever and pull armature out of drive
K
F end cap.
L 9. Remove thrust washer from armature shaft.
E
10. Push stop collar down to expose retaining ring.
D M
11. Remove retainer from armature shaft. Save stop
N collar.
C 12. Remove drive pinion assembly from armature.
O 13. Clean parts as required.
Inspection
Drive Pinion
P Check and inspect following areas:
● Pinion teeth for abnormal wear or damage.
● Surface between pinion and clutch mechanism for
nicks or irregularities which could cause seal damage.
B Q ● Check drive clutch by holding clutch housing and
rotating pinion. Pinion should rotate in only 1 direction.
R Brushes and Springs
Detail
S
A T
A
U
A Tube B Washer
C Armature D Drive
E Stop F Retaining Ring
G Collar H Drive End Cap
I Screw J Plunger
K Spring L Lever
A Wear Limit Length
M Plate N Plug
O Solenoid P Frame and Field Inspect both springs and brushes for wear, fatigue, or
damage. Measure length of each brush. Minimum length
Q Brush Holder R Nut for each brush is 7.6 mm (0.300 in.). Replace brushes if
Commutator End Screw they are worn, undersize, or condition is questionable.
S T
Plate Armature
U Bolt Components and Details
Starter Disassembly
A
NOTE: Do not reuse old retainer.
NOTE: Do not soak armature or use solvent when
cleaning. Wipe clean using a soft cloth, or use
compressed air.
1. Remove hex nut and disconnect positive (+) brush
lead/bracket from solenoid terminal. B
2. Remove screws securing solenoid to starter. A Commutator O.D. B Mica Insulation
3. Unhook plunger pin from drive lever. Remove gasket
from recess in housing.
4. Remove thru (larger) bolts.
12. Install thru bolts and brush holder mounting screws. Torque bolts to 5.6-9.0 N·m (49-79 in. lb.) and brush holder
mounting screws to 2.5-3.3 N·m (22-29 in. lb.).
13. Hook plunger behind upper end of drive lever and install spring into solenoid. Insert mounting screws through
holes in drive end cap. Use these to hold solenoid gasket in position, then mount solenoid. Torque screws to
4.0-6.0 N·m (35-53 in. lb.).
14. Connect positive (+) brush lead/bracket to solenoid and secure with nut. Torque nut to 8-11 N·m (71-97 in. lb.). Do
not overtighten.
Solenoid Tests
NOTE: DO NOT leave 12 volt test leads connected to solenoid for any time over what is necessary for performing
each of individual tests. Internal damage to solenoid may occur.
Disconnect all leads from solenoid including positive brush lead attached to lower stud terminal. Remove mounting
hardware and separate solenoid from starter for testing.
To test solenoid pull-in coil/plunger: To test solenoid hold-in coil:
Actuation Function
1. Use a 12 volt power supply and 2 test leads. 1. Connect a 12 volt test lead to flat spade S/start
2. Connect 1 lead to flat spade S/start terminal on terminal on solenoid and other lead to body or
solenoid. Momentarily connect other lead to lower mounting surface of solenoid.
large post terminal. 2. Manually push plunger IN and check if coil holds
When connection is made solenoid should energize plunger retracted. Do not allow test leads to remain
(audible click) and plunger retract. Repeat test connected to solenoid for a prolonged period of time.
several times. Continuity
Continuity 1. Use an ohmmeter set to audible or Rx2K scale, and
1. Use an ohmmeter set to audible or Rx2K scale, and connect 2 ohmmeter leads to 2 large post terminals.
connect 2 ohmmeter leads to 2 large post terminals. 2. Perform preceding solenoid hold-in coil function test
2. Perform solenoid pull-in coil/plunger actuation test and check for continuity. Meter should indicate
and check for continuity. Ohmmeter should indicate continuity. Repeat test several times.
continuity. Repeat test several times.
Condition Conclusion
Solenoid fails to activate. Replace solenoid.
No continuity is indicated.
Plunger fails to stay retracted.
WARNING
Accidental Starts can cause severe injury or Before working on engine or equipment, disable engine as
death. follows: 1) Disconnect spark plug lead(s). 2) Disconnect
negative (–) battery cable from battery.
Disconnect and ground spark plug lead(s)
before servicing.
External Engine Components
U Q
A
T
B
C
S
T D
E
F
R
Q G
V
U
W
V O
O P
X
H
V I
N
J
H
K
I
M
A Oil Filter B Oil Filter Nipple C Oil Filter Cup D Valve Spring
E Cup Spring F Valve G Oil Filter Housing H Valley Baffle
I Outer Cylinder Baffle J Electric Starter K Cylinder Shroud L Blower Housing
M Fixed Guard N Oil Sentry™ O O-ring P Pin
Q Fitting R Oil Filter Adapter S Oil Cooler T Hose
U Hose Clamp V Gasket W Carburetor X Intake Manifold
Clean all parts thoroughly as engine is disassembled. Removing Control Bracket, Governor Springs, and
Only clean parts can be accurately inspected Lever
and gauged for wear or damage. There are many
commercially available cleaners that will quickly remove 1. Unhook governed idle and governor springs from
grease, oil and grime from engine parts. When such a controls on main bracket and governor lever. Note
cleaner is used, follow manufacturer’s instructions and color, location, and position of each.
safety precautions carefully. 2. Disconnect throttle linkage and dampening spring
Make sure all traces of cleaner are removed before from governor lever at small bushing.
engine is reassembled and placed into operation. Even 3. Carefully pry off pal nut, remove washers (note
small amounts of these cleaners can quickly break down assembly order), and disconnect choke linkage from
lubricating properties of engine oil. pivot lever. Do not lose any parts. Secure remaining
pivot parts with tape to avoid losing them. Always
Disconnect Spark Plug Leads use a new pal nut during reassembly.
NOTE: Pull on boot only, to prevent damage to spark 4. Remove rear mounting screw on each side and lift
plug lead. off control bracket.
1. Disconnect leads from spark plugs. 5. Loosen nut and remove governor lever from cross
2. Shut off fuel supply. shaft.
Drain Oil from Crankcase and Remove Oil Filter Remove Carburetor
1. Clean oil filter and housing area. Remove and
discard oil filter. WARNING
2. Remove dipstick and 1 oil drain plug. Explosive Fuel can cause fires and severe
burns.
3. Allow ample time for oil to drain from crankcase.
Do not fill fuel tank while engine is hot or
Remove Muffler running.
Remove exhaust system and attaching hardware from Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can
engine. explode if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved
containers, in well ventilated, unoccupied buildings,
Remove Cylinder Shrouds and Blower Housing away from sparks or flames. Spilled fuel could ignite
1. Remove top mounting screw and loosen shoulder if it comes in contact with hot parts or sparks from
screws on each side. Lift off cylinder shrouds. ignition. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
2. Remove mounting screws and separate blower
housing from lower half. 1. Disconnect fuel shut-off solenoid lead.
2. Remove fuel inlet hose from carburetor or fuel pump.
Remove Electric Starter Motor Properly contain any remaining fuel.
1. Disconnect leads from starter. 3. Remove carburetor and linkages with choke return
2. Remove screws and starter. components as an assembly.
4. Remove carburetor gasket.
Remove Air Cleaner Assembly
5. Carburetor and linkages can be separated as
NOTE: Low-profile air cleaner is removed same way as necessary.
heavy-duty air cleaner.
1. Disconnect breather hose from air cleaner and Remove Oil Sentry™ (if equipped)
formed vent hose from vent port on carburetor. 1. Disconnect lead from Oil Sentry™ switch.
2. Remove nuts, ground lead, and choke return spring 2. Remove Oil Sentry™ switch from closure plate.
bracket from mounting studs.
3. Remove screws securing air cleaner and main Remove Baffles and Intake Manifold
control bracket to intake manifold bosses. 1. Remove screws securing valley baffles to cylinder
4. Remove air cleaner as an assembly from engine. heads and backing shroud assembly.
2. Remove screws securing outer cylinder baffles in
place. Screws are accessed from backing shroud
side.
3. Remove screws securing intake manifold to cylinder
heads. Cut any wire ties that secure wiring harness
or leads to intake manifold.
4. Remove intake manifold and gaskets.
Remove Oil Cooler Remove Oil Filter Housing and Oil Filter Adapter
NOTE: New clamps are recommended any time NOTE: Further disassembly of oil filter housing
disassembly is performed, or if clamps have assembly is not required unless being serviced
been loosened (expanded) several times. individually. Follow substeps a, b, and c.
1. Remove oil cooler mounting screws. Do not lose any 1. Remove screw securing oil filter housing and
washers (if used). individual O-rings to adapter. Carefully separate
2. Loosen clamps and disconnect hoses from oil parts.
cooler. Perform following only if oil filter housing assembly
requires individual servicing.
a. Remove nipple from cup and oil filter housing.
b. Remove oil filter cup and spring from housing.
c. Remove rubber valve and spring from cup.
2. Remove screw securing oil filter adapter and
individual O-rings to crankcase, then carefully
separate parts.
Flywheel/Ignition Components
O
B
A F
C
M
N D
K
J
E
I
G
A Rectifier-Regulator B Ignition Module C Washer D Flywheel Screw
E Special Washer F Wire Harness Clamp G Debris Screen H Fan
I Stiffener J Hex Stud K Flywheel L Magnet
M Stator N Backing Shroud O Woodruff Key
A R
P
M
K
I O
L N
D
J
H
E
B C
A Gasket B Valve C Cylinder Head D Pipe Plug
E Spacer F Washer G Spark Plug H Valve Stem Seal
I Valve Spring J Hydraulic Lifter K Valve Spring Retainer L Push Rod
M Valve Spring Keeper N Rocker Arm O Rocker Arm Pivots P Valve Cover Gasket
Q Valve Cover R Grommet
E E
C
G G
D
INT
B A
H H
EXH
After cleaning, check flatness of cylinder head and Valve Seat Inserts
corresponding top surface of crankcase using a surface Hardened steel alloy intake and exhaust valve seat
plate or piece of glass and feeler gauge. Maximum inserts are press fitted into cylinder head. Inserts are
allowable out of flatness is 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). not replaceable but can be reconditioned if not too badly
Carefully inspect valve mechanism parts. Inspect valve pitted or distorted. If cracked or badly warped, cylinder
springs and related hardware for excessive wear or head should be replaced.
distortion. Check valves and valve seat area or inserts Recondition valve seat inserts following instructions
for evidence of deep pitting, cracks, or distortion. Check provided with valve seat cutter being used. Final cut
clearance of valve stems in guides. should be made with an 89° cutter as specified for
Hard starting or loss of power accompanied by high valve seat angle. Cutting proper 45° valve face angle
fuel consumption may be symptoms of faulty valves. as specified, and proper valve seat angle (44.5°, half of
Although these symptoms could also be attributed to full 89° angle), will achieve desired 0.5° (1.0° full cut)
worn rings, remove and check valves first. After removal, interference angle where maximum pressure occurs on
clean valve heads, faces, and stems with a power wire outside diameters of valve face and seat.
brush. Lapping Valves
Then, carefully inspect each valve for defects such as a Reground or new valves must be lapped in, to provide
warped head, excessive corrosion, or a worn stem end. proper fit. Use a hand valve grinder with a suction cup
Replace valves found to be in bad condition. for final lapping. Lightly coat valve face with a fine grade
of grinding compound, then rotate valve on its seat with
Valve Guides grinder. Continue grinding until a smooth surface is
If a valve guide is worn beyond specifications, it will not obtained on seat and on valve face. Thoroughly clean
guide valve in a straight line. This may result in burnt cylinder head in soap and hot water to remove all traces
valve faces or seats, loss of compression, and excessive of grinding compound. After drying cylinder head, apply
oil consumption. a light coating of SAE 10 oil to prevent rusting.
To check valve guide-to-valve stem clearance, Valve Stem Seals
thoroughly clean valve guide and, using a split-ball These engines use valve stem seals on intake and
gauge, measure inside diameter of guide. Then, using exhaust valves. Always use new seals when valves
an outside micrometer, measure diameter of valve stem are removed from cylinder head. Seals should also be
at several points on stem where it moves in valve guide. replaced if deteriorated or damaged in any way. Never
Use largest stem diameter to calculate clearance by reuse an old seal.
subtracting stem diameter from guide diameter. If intake
clearance exceeds 0.038/0.076 mm (0.0015/0.0030
in.) or exhaust clearance exceeds 0.050/0.088 mm
(0.0020/0.0035 in.), determine if valve stem or guide is
responsible for excessive clearance.
Maximum (I.D.) wear on intake valve guide is 7.135
mm (0.2809 in.) and 7.159 mm (0.2819 in.) for exhaust
guide. Guides are not removable but can be reamed
0.25 mm (0.010 in.) oversize. Valves with 0.25 mm
oversize stems must then be used.
If guides are within limits but valve stems are worn
beyond limits, install new valves.
T
P
Q
R
S E
D
C
A
B
U
H M
N
G
F
K
H I L
J
V
A Closure Plate B Gerotor Gears C Oil Pump O-Ring D Oil Pump Housing
E Relief Valve Baffle F Pickup Tube G Clamp H Inlet Seal
I Pickup Screen J Oil Reservoir K Drain Plug L Gasket
Crankshaft Bearing
M N Closure Plate Gasket O Dipstick P Dipstick Tube
(PTO)
Q Breather Assembly R Breather Gasket S Filter T Breather Hose
U Lifting Strap V Oil Seal
Remove Closure Plate Assembly 1. Make sure recess in closure plate for oil pump
gerotor gears is clean.
1. Remove screws securing closure plate to crankcase.
2. Lubricate oil pump gerotor gears with grease
2. Locate protruding tabs on closure plate. Carefully (Lubriplate® 100 or equivalent), and install into
tap to break gasket seal. Do not pry on sealing recess.
surfaces as this could cause leaks. Separate closure
plate from crankcase. Remove old gasket. 3. Lightly lubricate with oil and install inlet seal into oil
pump housing until it is fully seated.
Inspection
Inspect oil seal in closure plate and remove it if worn or 4. Install O-ring in groove of oil pump housing. Use a
damaged. small quantity of grease to hold it in place.
Inspect crankshaft bearing surface for wear or damage. 5. Lightly lubricate I.D. of inlet seal with oil and carefully
Replace bearing or closure plate assembly if required. insert ferruled end of pickup tube through grommet,
into oil pump housing. Position pickup tube so
Oil Pump Assembly outboard end faces up.
Disassembly 6. Install oil pump housing with pickup tube, over oil
1. Remove screws securing oil pump housing including pump boss and gears. Position relief valve baffle on
relief valve baffle and clamp for pickup tube. screw locations 2 and 3. Align all 3 screw locations.
2. Remove oil pump housing and pickup tube from 7. Install clamp for pickup tube and finger tighten
closure plate. screw. Check alignment of parts and torque oil pump
housing screws as specified using sequence below:
3. Remove oil pump gerotor gears from closure plate
recess. a. Install fastener into location 1 and lightly tighten
to position pump.
4. Remove oil pickup by pulling it free from oil pump
body. b. Install fastener into location 2 and fully torque to
recommended value.
5. Relief valve is a one-piece style, staked to oil pump
housing; removal should not be attempted, nor is c. Install fastener into location 3 and fully torque to
internal servicing possible. If a problem with relief recommended value.
valve is encountered, oil pump should be replaced. d. Finish torquing fastener in location 1 to
Inspection recommended value.
Inspect oil pump housing, gerotor gears, and closure First Time Installation: 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.).
plate recess for nicks, burrs, wear, or any visible All Reinstallations: 6.7 N·m (60 in. lb.).
damage. Inspect inlet seal for pickup tube in housing. If
any parts are worn or damaged, replace seal, oil pump 8. Torque clamp (pickup tube) mounting screw to
or closure plate as required. 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.) into new hole or 7.3 N·m
(65 in. lb.) into used hole.
Reassembly
Torque Sequence
Crankcase Components
H P
E O
C
D
C
B
G F
A
M N
L
K
I
J
Piston and Rings Scratches on rings and pistons are caused by abrasive
material such as carbon, dirt, or pieces of hard metal.
Inspection
Piston and Rings Components and Details Detonation damage occurs when a portion of fuel charge
ignites spontaneously from heat and pressure shortly
A after ignition. This creates 2 flame fronts which meet and
explode to create extreme hammering pressures on a
specific area of piston. Detonation generally occurs from
using low octane fuels.
B
Preignition or ignition of fuel charge before timed spark
can cause damage similar to detonation. Preignition
damage is often more severe than detonation damage.
C Preignition is caused by a hot spot in combustion
chamber from sources such as glowing carbon deposits,
blocked cooling fins, an improperly seated valve, or
wrong spark plug(s).
D Replacement pistons are available in STD bore size, and
in 0.25 mm (0.010 in.), and 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) oversize.
Replacement pistons include new piston ring sets and
E new piston pins.
Replacement ring sets are also available separately
for STD, 0.25 mm (0.010 in.), and 0.50 mm (0.020 in.)
F oversize pistons. Always use new piston rings when
installing pistons. Never reuse old rings.
Some important points to remember when servicing
G piston rings:
1. Cylinder bore must be deglazed before service ring
I sets are used.
2. If cylinder bore does not need reboring and if old
H piston is within wear limits and free of score or scuff
A Piston Ring B End Gap marks, old piston may be reused.
C Identification Mark D Piston 3. Remove old rings and clean up grooves. Never
reuse old rings.
Top Compression Center 4. Before installing new rings on piston, place top 2
E F
Ring Compression Ring rings, each in turn, in its running area in cylinder
G Rails H Expander bore and check end gap. Top and center
compression ring end gap clearance is 0.30/0.55
Oil Control Ring mm (0.011/0.021 in.) with maximum wear limit of
I (3 Piece) 0.94 mm (0.037 in.).
Scuffing and scoring of pistons and cylinder walls occurs 5. After installing new compression (top and middle)
when internal engine temperatures approach welding rings on piston, make sure ring-to-groove side
point of piston. Temperatures high enough to do this are clearance is 0.04/0.08 mm (0.0015/0.0031 in.). If
created by friction, which is usually attributed to improper side clearance is greater than specified, a new
lubrication and/or overheating of engine. piston must be used.
Normally, very little wear takes place in piston boss- Install New Piston Rings
piston pin area. If original piston and connecting rod can NOTE: Rings must be installed correctly. Ring
be reused after new rings are installed, original pin can installation instructions are usually included with
also be reused but new piston pin retainers are required. new ring sets. Follow instructions carefully. Use
Piston pin is included as part of piston assembly – if pin a piston ring expander to install rings. Install
boss in piston or pin are worn or damaged, a new piston bottom (oil control) ring first and top
assembly is required. compression ring last.
Ring failure is usually indicated by excessive oil To install new piston rings, proceed as follows:
consumption and blue exhaust smoke. When rings fail,
oil is allowed to enter combustion chamber where it is 1. Oil control ring (bottom groove): Install expander and
burned along with fuel. High oil consumption can also then rails. Make sure ends of expander are not
occur when piston ring end gap is incorrect because overlapped.
ring cannot properly conform to cylinder wall under this 2. Middle compression ring (center groove): Install
condition. Oil control is also lost when ring gaps are not center ring using a piston ring installation tool. Make
staggered during installation. sure identification mark is up or colored dye stripe
When cylinder temperatures get too high, lacquer and (if contained), is to left of end gap.
varnish collect on pistons causing rings to stick, which
results in rapid wear. A worn ring usually takes on a
shiny or bright appearance.
62 690 01 Rev. C KohlerEngines.com 55
Disassembly/Inspection and Service
3. Top compression ring (top groove): Install top ring Inspect crankshaft keyways. If they are worn or chipped,
using a piston ring expander. Make sure replacement of crankshaft will be necessary.
identification mark is up or colored dye stripe Inspect crankpin for score marks or metallic pickup.
(if contained), is to left of end gap. Slight score marks can be cleaned with crocus cloth
soaked in oil. If wear limits, as stated in Clearance
Remove Crankshaft Specifications, are exceeded, it will be necessary to
NOTE: If crankpin is reground, visually check to ensure replace crankshaft or regrind crankpin to 0.25 mm
that fillet blends smoothly with crankpin surface. (0.010 in.) undersize. If reground, a 0.25 mm (0.010 in.)
Carefully pull crankshaft from crankcase. Note thrust undersize connecting rod (big end) must then be used to
washers and shims if used. achieve proper running clearance. Measure crankpin for
size, taper, and out-of-round.
Inspection and Service
Crankshaft Components and Details Clearance Specifications-Connecting Rod Journal
O.D. - New 43.982/44.000 mm
(1.731/1.732 in.)
A O.D. - Max. Wear Limit 43.97 mm (1.731 in.)
Max. Taper 0.018 mm (0.0007 in.)
B Max. Out-of-Round 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.)
C Width 53.00/53.09 mm
(2.0866/2.0901 in.)
Connecting rod journal can be ground 1 size under.
When grinding a crankshaft, grinding stone deposits
D can get caught in oil passages, which could cause
severe engine damage. Removing crankpin plug when
crankshaft is ground provides easy access for removing
any grinding deposits that may collect in oil passages.
Use following procedure to remove and replace plug.
A Self-Tapping Screw B Flat Washer Remove Crankshaft Plug
C Plug D Crankshaft 1. Drill a 3/16 in. hole through plug in crankshaft.
2. Thread a 3/4 in. or 1 in. long self-tapping screw with
F a flat washer into drilled hole. Flat washer must be
large enough to seat against shoulder of plug bore.
3. Tighten self-tapping screw until it draws plug out of
crankshaft.
Install New Crankshaft Plug
G Use 1 single cylinder camshaft pin, as a driver and tap
E plug into plug bore until it seats at bottom of bore. Make
sure plug is tapped in evenly to prevent leakage.
Remove Governor Gear Assembly
H Governor gear is held onto shaft by small molded tabs
in gear. When gear is removed from shaft, these tabs
Fillet Must Blend Smoothly with Bearing Journal are destroyed and gear must be replaced. Therefore,
E Surface remove gear only if absolutely necessary. If governor
F High Point from Fillet Intersections cross shaft, yoke, or gear condition does not require
removal, governor gear may be left in place. If removal is
G 45° Minimum necessary, perform as follows:
H This Fillet Area Must Be Completely Smooth 1. Remove locking tab thrust washer and note
orientation.
Inspect gear teeth of crankshaft. If teeth are badly worn,
chipped, or some are missing, replacement of crankshaft 2. Using a screwdriver, carefully pry upward to unseat
will be necessary. governor gear assembly from governor gear shaft.
Remove regulating pin and governor gear assembly.
Inspect crankshaft bearing surfaces for scoring,
grooving, etc. Replaceable bearing is used in crankshaft 3. Inspect governor gear shaft for wear or damage.
bore of closure plate and/or crankcase. Do not replace Remove shaft only if replacement is needed.
bearing unless they show signs of damage or are out of Inspection
running clearance 0.040/0.167 mm (0.0015/0.0065 in.). Governor gear is located within crankcase. Inspect
If crankshaft turns easily, without noise, and there is no governor gear teeth. Replace gear if it is worn, chipped,
evidence of scoring, grooving, etc., on races or bearing or if any teeth are missing. Inspect governor weights.
surfaces, bearing can be reused. They should move freely in governor gear.
A 11 mm (0.433 in.)
Crankcase Components
H P
E O
C
D
C
B
G F
A
M N
L
K
I
J
C
F
D
E
A B
A Side 1 B Side 2
C Top of Piston
NOTE: Cylinders are numbered on crankcase. Make
Seal Depth sure to install piston, connecting rod and end
A Crankcase Surface B 1.5-2.0 mm cap into appropriate cylinder bore as previously
(0.059-0.078 in.) marked at disassembly. Do not mix end caps
12.66 mm and connecting rods.
C Oil Seal D (0.498 in.) NOTE: Proper orientation of piston/connecting rod
Governor Gear assemblies inside engine is extremely important.
E Crankcase Surface F Improper orientation can cause extensive wear
Shaft
or damage. Be certain pistons and connecting
If governor shafts, seal, and/or governor gear were rods are assembled exactly as shown.
removed, reassemble as follows. 1. Stagger piston rings in grooves until end gaps are
1. Lightly oil lip and outside diameter of new governor 120° apart. Oil ring rails should also be staggered.
cross shaft seal. Install seal into crankcase to depth 2. Lubricate cylinder bore, piston, and piston rings with
shown. engine oil. Compress rings of piston side 1 using a
2. If governor gear shaft was removed, press or lightly piston ring compressor.
tap replacement shaft into closure plate to depth 3. Lubricate crankshaft journals and connecting rod
shown. bearing surfaces with engine oil.
3. Lubricate governor cross shaft bearing surfaces in 4. Make sure FLY stamping on piston is facing toward
crankcase with engine oil. Insert governor cross flywheel side of engine. Use a hammer with a rubber
shaft end with flat cutout where governor yoke is grip and gently tap piston into cylinder. Be careful oil
secured, into crankcase and position shaft so that ring rails do not spring free between bottom of ring
flat part is visible (up). compressor and top of cylinder.
4. Attach governor yoke to cross shaft so curved 5. Install inner rod cap to connecting rod using screws.
section is up as marked. Secure with 2 screws. If a Torque screws in increments to 11.3 N·m (100 in.
thread locking compound is not preapplied, apply a lb.). Illustrated instructions are provided in service
small amount of Loctite® 266™ Threadlocker or rod package.
equivalent, to screw threads before installing. Torque
screws to 2.2 N·m (20 in. lb.). Align chamfer of connecting rod with chamfer of its
mating end cap. When installed, flat faces of
5. Install first regulating pin with head down so it will connecting rods should face each other. Faces with
contact yoke. Install governor gear with second raised rib should be toward outside.
regulating pin and flyweight assembly in/down onto
governor shaft until it locks into position. Apply a 6. Repeat this procedure for other connecting rod and
small amount of grease to locking tab thrust washer piston assembly.
and install on top of governor gear so tang is facing
up in 6 o’clock position.
T
P
Q
R
S E
D
C
A
B
U
H M
N
G
F
K
H I L
J
V
A Closure Plate B Gerotor Gears C Oil Pump O-Ring D Oil Pump Housing
E Relief Valve Baffle F Pickup Tube G Clamp H Inlet Seal
I Pickup Screen J Oil Reservoir K Drain Plug L Gasket
Crankshaft Bearing
M N Closure Plate Gasket O Dipstick P Dipstick Tube
(PTO)
Q Breather Assembly R Breather Gasket S Filter T Breather Hose
U Lifting Strap V Oil Seal
Install Camshaft Determining Camshaft End Play
1. Place a new closure plate gasket into position on
1. Liberally apply camshaft lubricant to each cam lobe. crankcase.
Lubricate camshaft bearing surfaces of crankcase
and camshaft with engine oil. 2. Position camshaft end play checking tool over
camshaft. Use a feeler gauge to check end play
2. Position timing mark of crankshaft gear at 12 o’clock between camshaft and end play checking tool.
position. Camshaft endplay should be between 0.3/1.3 mm
3. Slide camshaft into bearing surface of crankcase, (0.011/0.051 in.).
positioning timing mark of camshaft gear at 6 o’clock 3. No shim is typically used from factory. However, if
position. Make sure camshaft gear and crankshaft camshaft end play is not within specified range,
gear mesh, with both timing marks aligned. remove checking tool and shim as necessary.
Several color coded shims are available: Install Closure Plate Assembly
White: 0.69215/0.73025 mm (0.02725/0.02875 in.) Torque Sequence
Blue: 0.74295/0.78105 mm (0.02925/0.03075 in.) 1
Red: 0.79375/0.83185 mm (0.03125/0.03275 in.) 3
14
Yellow: 0.84455/0.88265 mm (0.03325/0.03475 in.)
5 12
Green: 0.89535/0.99345 mm (0.03525/0.03675 in.)
Gray: 0.94615/0.98425 mm (0.03725/0.03875 in.)
Black: 0.99695/1.03505 mm (0.03925/0.04075 in.) 7 10
5 2 7
1. Use bolts with heads removed, or a similar item as Check Crankshaft End Play
temporary alignment pins and install into 2 center
holes on ends. Set engine on base and use a dial indicator to check
crankshaft end play to 0.30/1.50 mm (0.011/0.059 in.).
2. Install a new oil reservoir gasket onto bottom of
crankcase using alignment pins. Notched side of
gasket must be towards flywheel.
3. Install oil reservoir onto crankcase and temporary
alignment pins. Flywheel side is indicated on cover.
Install and finger tighten screws. Remove alignment
pins and install remaining screws. Torque screws in
sequence shown to 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.).
Breather Components
Used on Serial No. 37070xxxxx and Below Used on Serial No. 37071xxxxx and Higher
Breather Fastener
Torque Sequence
A 1 3
A
B
B
C C
D 4 2
E D
F
H
Filter must Not Extend
G Above Casting
D
H
G
D A A
SECTION A-A I
I
A R
P
M
K
I O
L N
D
J
H
E
B C
A Gasket B Valve C Cylinder Head D Pipe Plug
E Spacer F Washer G Spark Plug H Valve Stem Seal
I Valve Spring J Hydraulic Lifter K Valve Spring Retainer L Push Rod
M Valve Spring Keeper N Rocker Arm O Rocker Arm Pivots P Valve Cover Gasket
Q Valve Cover R Grommet
N B
1
2
C
M D 1. Install new intake manifold gaskets so notched
section is inward and points toward flywheel side.
E 2. Mount intake manifold to cylinder heads. Make sure
gaskets remain in proper position. Torque screws in
L 2 stages using sequence shown, first to 16.9 N·m
F
(150 in. lb.), finally to 22.6 N·m (200 in. lb.).
K
3. Install carburetor mounting studs into intake manifold
G if previously removed. Use nuts, locked flange to
flange, and tighten each stud until bottomed/tight.
Flywheel/Ignition Components
O
B
A F
C
M
N D
K
J
E
I
G
A Rectifier-Regulator B Ignition Module C Washer D Flywheel Screw
E Special Washer F Wire Harness Clamp G Debris Screen H Fan
I Stiffener J Hex Stud K Flywheel L Magnet
M Stator N Backing Shroud O Woodruff Key
Install Backing Shroud Assembly Install Stator, Wiring Harness, and Rectifier-
NOTE: New hose clamps are recommended for Regulator
reassembly, or if clamps have been loosened 1. Apply pipe sealant with Teflon® (Loctite® PST® 592™
(expanded) several times to avoid leakage. Thread Sealant or equivalent) to stator mounting
1. To aid assembly, install lower oil cooler hose onto oil holes.
filter housing prior to installing backing shroud 2. Position stator, aligning mounting holes so leads are
assembly, and secure with a clamp. at bottom and toward rectifier-regulator mount on
2. Install backing shroud assembly and secure to cylinder 1 side.
crankcase with M6 screws. Torque screws in a 3. Install and torque screws to 6.2 N·m (55 in. lb.).
crisscross pattern to 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.) into new 4. Route stator wires under molded clips in backing
holes, or 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.) into used holes. shroud assembly.
5. Check terminal on end of B+ charging lead to be
sure locking tang is angled upward. Insert terminal
into center location of connector until it locks into
place.
6. Install wiring harness under molded clips in backing
shroud assembly.
7. Position rectifier-regulator onto mounting posts with
cooling fins up. Attach ground lead to outer screw
and washer, then torque mounting screws to 2.0 N·m
(18 in. lb.). Connect plug to rectifier-regulator.
CAUTION CAUTION
Damaging Crankshaft and Flywheel Can Failure to utilize or reassemble debris screen
cause personal injury. as designed could result in debris screen
failure and serious personal injury.
Using improper procedures can lead to broken Cooling Fan and Debris Screen Components
fragments. Broken fragments could be thrown from
engine. Always observe and use precautions and 1. Position cooling fan onto flywheel aligning mounting
procedures when installing flywheel. locations. Apply a small amount of Loctite® 243™
Threadlocker to threads and install long mounting
NOTE: Before installing flywheel make sure crankshaft screws. Torque screws to 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.).
taper and flywheel hub are clean, dry, and 2. Apply a small amount of Loctite® 243™ Threadlocker
completely free of any lubricants. Presence of to external threaded section, (unless new parts with
lubricants can cause flywheel to be over preapplied locking compound are being used).
stressed and damaged when screw is torqued to Thread debris screen hex studs into mounting holes
specifications. in flywheel. Torque each stud to 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.).
NOTE: Make sure flywheel key is installed properly in 3. Install stiffener followed by metal debris screen onto
keyway. Flywheel can become cracked or studs. Secure with special washers and mounting
damaged if key is not properly installed. screws using Loctite® 243™ Threadlocker on
1. Install woodruff key into crankshaft keyway. Make threads. Torque screws to 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.).
sure key is properly seated and parallel with shaft
taper.
2. Install flywheel onto crankshaft, being careful not to
shift woodruff key.
3. Install screw and washer.
4. Use a flywheel strap wrench or holding tool to hold
flywheel. Torque screw to 67.8 N·m (50 ft. lb.).
Install Ignition Modules
1. Rotate flywheel to position magnet away from
ignition module bosses.
2. Connect ground lead to single kill tab and install
modules onto crankcase bosses so tab is away from
you (IN) and spark plug lead should be towards you
(OUT). Mount wiring harness clamp with loop UP, on
starter side inner module screw and route harness
through it. Attach rectifier-regulator ground lead to
outer screw.
3. Slide modules up as far away from flywheel as
possible and snug screws to hold them in position.
4. Rotate flywheel to position magnet directly under 1
ignition module.
5. Insert a 0.30 mm (0.012 in.) flat feeler gauge
between magnet and ignition module. Loosen
screws enough to allow magnet to pull module down
against feeler gauge.
6. Torque screws to 6.2 N·m (55 in. lb.) into new holes,
or 4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into used holes.
7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 for other ignition module.
8. Rotate flywheel back and forth, checking for
clearance between magnet and ignition modules.
Make sure magnet does not strike modules. Check
gap with a feeler gauge and readjust if necessary.
Final Air Gap 0.280/0.330 mm (0.011/0.013 in.).
9. Make sure leads are under molded clip on starter
side.
U Q
T A
B
C
S T D
E
R F
Q G
V
U
W
V O O P
X
V H I
N
I
M
A Oil Filter B Oil Filter Nipple C Oil Filter Cup D Valve Spring
E Cup Spring F Valve G Oil Filter Housing H Valley Baffle
I Outer Cylinder Baffle J Electric Starter K Cylinder Shroud L Blower Housing
M Fixed Guard N Oil Sentry™ O O-ring P Pin
Q Fitting R Oil Filter Adapter S Oil Cooler T Hose
U Hose Clamp V Gasket W Carburetor X Intake Manifold
I A
M
H
N O
J
K B
L G
F
E
A Hole A B Hole B