Trim Work

HERE ’S HOW ...
TRIMWORK
24 Quick & Easy Makeovers for
Walls, Windows & Doors
Crown Moldings
Wood Paneling
Chair Rails
Ornamental
Baseboards
Wine Rack
and more!
$ 9.99
HERE ’S HOW ...
TRIMWORK
24 Quick & Easy Makeovers for
Walls, Windows & Doors
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
www.creativepub.com
Contents
INTRODUCTION . . . . 5
1 Installing One-piece 2 Installing a Built-up 3 Installing Picture Rail. . .12 4 Installing Chair Rail . . . .14
Base Molding. . . . . . . . . .6 Base Molding. . . . . . . . . .8
5 Installing a Built-up 6 Installing Basic 7 Creating a Built-up 8 Installing Polymer

Chair Rail . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Crown Molding . . . . . . .20 Cornice . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Crown Molding . . . . . . .30
9 Installing Crown 10 Casing a Window 11 Installing Stool & Apron 12 Installing Arts &
Molding Lighting . . . . . .32 or Door . . . . . . . . . . .34 Window Trim . . . . . . .36 Crafts Casing . . . . . . .40
13 Installing a 14 Trimming a Basement 15 Installing a Decorative 16 Trimming a
Window Shelf . . . . . .42 Window Opening. . . .44 Door Header . . . . . . .48 Wall Opening . . . . . . .50
17 Hanging Interior 18 Installing Plastic & 19 Hanging French 20 Installing Wainscoting

Prehung Doors . . . . .54 Miterless Molding . . .56 Doors. . . . . . . . . . . . .58 with Tongue & Groove
Boards . . . . . . . . . . . .62
21 Installing Wall Frame 22 Installing Wainscot 23 Paneling 24 Installing Ceiling

Moldings . . . . . . . . . .70 Frames . . . . . . . . . . .72 a Ceiling. . . . . . . . . . .78 Beams . . . . . . . . . . . .82
APPENDIX:
Cutting and
Fitting Joints . . . . .86
Introduction
R eplacing or adding decorative moldings can renew your home like no other home improvement project. The
materials are relatively inexpensive, compared to many home improvements, and the visual impact on your
home can be priceless. For bargain-conscious homeowners, Here’s How: Trimwork offers complete information on
24 important trimwork projects most popular with homeowners.
Unlike the larger, more expensive volumes, this book doesn’t include the background information on
woodworking skills and tools, and it doesn’t offer the extensive catalog of the various materials available
for trimwork. It also leaves out some project information that is of more interest to professionals than to
homeowners. But Here’s How: Trimwork does give you all the information you need to effectively make over your
home’s appearance with trim projects, some of which have traditional practicality, others featuring unique appeal.
If you see yourself as a novice or even intermediate DIYer, this may well be the only book you’ll need.
With Here’s How: Trimwork, you’ll learn the basics of installing all forms of wall molding, including
baseboards, crown molding, chair rail, and picture rail. Also included are projects for trimming all kinds of doors
and windows, including patio doors, basement egress windows, and French doors. A variety of decorative wall
projects are found here, including several forms of wainscoting and tongue-and-groove paneling. Ceilings don’t
get left out either; you’ll learn how to panel a ceiling and install creative architectural ceiling beams. There are
even projects showing you how to create decorative wall shelves with ordinary stock moldings, and how to create
a window shelf. A helpful appendix at the end of the book will teach you some basics on cutting and fitting joints
with a power miter saw.
Today, it’s hard to find a professional trim carpenter who’ll charge you less than $1000 for an afternoon’s
worth of work. Armed with Here’s How: Trimwork, though, you may very well save that thousand dollars on one
project alone.
■ 5
1. Installing One-piece Base Molding
B aseboard trim is installed to conceal the joint

between the finished floor and the wallcovering
(a necessary feature of a house). Installing plain,
one-piece baseboard such as ranch-style base or cove
base is a straightforward project. Outside corner joints
are mitered, inside corners are coped, and long runs
are joined with scarf cuts.
The biggest difficulty to installing base is dealing
with out-of-plumb and nonsquare corners. However, a
T-bevel makes these obstacles easy to overcome.
Plan the order of your installation prior to cutting
any pieces and lay out a specific piece for each length
of wall. It may be helpful to mark the type of cut on
the back of each piece so you don’t have any confusion
during the install.
Locate all studs and mark them with painter’s
tape 6" higher than your molding height. If you need
to make any scarf joints along a wall, make sure they
fall on the center of a stud. Before you begin nailing Baseboard doesn’t need to be fancy to be effective.
trim in place, take the time to pre-finish the moldings. Without a shoe or a cap, a plain, one-piece base molding
Doing so will minimize the clean-up afterward. makes a neat transition from floor to wall.
Tools & Materials ▸

Pencil T-bevel Pneumatic finish nail Pneumatic fasteners
Tape measure Coping saw gun & compressor Carpenter’s glue
Power miter saw Metal file set Moldings Finishing putty
■ How to Install One-piece Base Molding

1 2
Measure, cut, and install the first piece of baseboard. Cut the second piece of molding oversized by 6" to 10"
Butt both ends into the corners tightly. For longer lengths, it and cope-cut the adjoining end to the first piece. Fine-tune the
is a good idea to cut the piece slightly oversized (up to 1⁄16" cope with a metal file and sandpaper. Dry fit the joint adjusting
on strips over 10 ft. long) and “spring” it into place. Nail the it as necessary to produce a tight-fitting joint.
molding in place with two nails at every stud location.
6 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

3 4
2
3
2
2
Check the corner for square with a framing square. If Adjust the miter angle of your saw to cut the adjoining
necessary, adjust the miter cut of your saw. Use a T-bevel to outside corner piece. Test fit the cut to ensure a tight joint
transfer the proper angle. Cut the second piece (coped) to (inset photo). Remove the mating piece of trim and fasten the
length and install it with two nails at each stud location. first piece for the outside corner joint.
5 6
3 4
Lay out any scarf joints by placing the piece in position so Nail the third piece in place, making sure the outside
that the previous joint is tight, and then marking the center of corner joint is tight. Cut the end of the fourth piece to match
a stud location nearest the opposite end. Set the angle of your the scarf joint angle and nail it in place with two nails at each
saw to a 30° angle and cut the molding at the marked location. stud location. Add the remaining pieces of molding, fill the nail
holes with putty, and apply a final coat of finish.
Installing One-piece Base Molding ■ 7

2. Installing a Built-up Base Molding
B uilt-up base molding is made up of several strips

of wood (usually three) that are combined for
a particular effect. It is installed in two common
scenarios: to match existing trim in other rooms of a Cap molding
house; or to match a stock, one-piece molding that is
Wall
not available.
Installing a built-up base molding is no more
difficult than a standard one-piece molding, because
the same installation techniques are used. However,
built-up base molding offers a few advantages over Base board (plywood)
standard stock moldings. Wavy floors and walls are

easier to conceal, and the height of the molding is
completely up to you, making heat registers and other
obstructions easier to deal with.
Base shoe
In this project, the base molding is made of
high-grade plywood rather than solid stock lumber.
Plywood is more economical and dimensionally stable
Floor
than solid lumber and can be built up to any depth,
as well as cut down to any height. Keep in mind that
plywood molding is less durable than solid wood, and
is only available in 8 and 10-ft. lengths, making joints
more frequent.

Pneumatic finish nail gun
Air compressor
Air hose
Miter saw
Pencil
Tape measure
Hammer
Nail set
Table saw or straight edge guide
and circular saw
Sandpaper
Power sander
3
⁄4" finish-grade oak plywood
Base shoe molding
Cap molding
2" finish nails
Wood putty

Stud location
Open bevel
for
scarf joint
Back-cut bevel
for scarf joint
Cut the plywood panel into 6" strips with a table saw or a Install the plywood strips with 2" finish nails driven at stud
straightedge guide and a circular saw. Lightly sand the strips, locations. Use scarf joints on continuous runs, driving pairs of
removing any splinters left from the saw. Then, apply the finish fasteners into the joints. Cut and install moldings so that all
of your choice to the moldings and the plywood strips. scarf joints fall at stud locations.
Tip ▸
Baseboard can be built up on the back with spacer

strips so it will project further out from the wall.
This can allow you to match existing casings, or to
create the impression of a thicker molding. However,
the cap rail needs to be thick enough to cover the
plywood edge completely, or the core of the panel
may be visible.
Installing a Built-up Base Molding ■ 9

■ Installing a Built-up Base Molding
Nail and glue 45°
outside miter joint
before attaching
baseboard
Test-fit inside corner butt joints before cutting a Miter outside corners squarely at 45°. Use wood glue and
workpiece. If the walls are not square or straight, angle 11⁄4" brad nails to pull the mitered pieces tight, and then nail
or bevel the end cut a few degrees to fit the profile of the the base to the wall at stud locations with 2" finish nails. Small
adjoining piece. The cap molding will cover any gaps at the top gaps at the bottom or top of the base molding will be covered
of the joint. See illustration, page 8. with cap or base shoe.
Attach Attach cap

baseboard to baseboard
to wall studs with 18-ga.,
with 2"
5
⁄ 8" brads
finish nails
Attach
base shoe
to subfloor
with 1 1⁄ 2"
finish nails
Use a brad nailer with 18-gauge, 5⁄8" brads to install the Built-up baseboard requires more attention to the nailing
cap and base shoe moldings along the edges of the plywood schedule than simple one-piece baseboards. The most important
base. Fit scarf joints on longer lengths, coped joints on inside consideration (other than making sure your nails are all driven
corners, and miter joints on outside corners. Stagger the into studs or other solid wood), is that the base shoe must be
seams so that they do not line up with the base molding attached to the floor, while the baseboard is attached to the wall.
seams, following the suggested nailing pattern above. Set any This way, as the gap between the wall and floor changes, the
protruding nails with a nail set and fill all nail holes with putty. parts of the built-up molding can change with them.

■ Options with Heat Registers
Installing base molding around heat registers and installation. Here are a few methods that can be
cold-air returns can sometimes be challenging. employed for trimming around these obstructions.
Register thickness and height vary, complicating
Adjust the height of your base molding

to completely surround the heat register
opening, then cut a pocket out of the
base for the heat register to slide into.
Install the base shoe and cap trim molding
continuously across the edges of the
base molding.
Install a taller backer block to

encompass larger register openings. Cut a
hole the same size as the duct opening in
the backer block and cover the edges of
the plywood with cap rail, mitering at the
corners. Butt the base molding into the
sides of the register. Cut and install returns
for the base shoe flush with the ends of
the register.
Install a wooden heat register for

a less noticeable appearance. Wooden
registers can be finished to match your
trim and are available through most
hardwood floor retailers. Butt the base
molding into the ends of the register cover
and bevel the front edges of the base shoe
to match the depth of the register.
Installing a Built-up Base Molding ■ 11

3. Installing Picture Rail
P icture rail molding is a specialty molding that

was installed in many older homes so the
homeowners could avoid making nail holes in the
finished walls. Picture rail molding is a simple but
elegant way to add style to any room. Special picture
hanging hooks slide over the molding and artwork
may be hung with a cord over the hook. Picture
rail molding also provides its own decorative touch,
breaking up the vertical lines from floor to ceiling.
For this reason, it is also installed as a decorative
touch by itself.
Picture rail molding is easy to install but
should be reinforced with screws, not brads or
nails, especially if you are hanging large, heavy
items. Depending upon the style of your home,
picture rail can be hung anywhere from 1 ft. to a Tools & Materials ▸
few inches down from the ceiling. In some homes,
picture rail is added just below the cornice or Ladder 4-ft. level
crown molding to add an additional layer of depth. Pencil or laser level
When applied this way, it is commonly referred to Stud finder Drill with bits
as a frieze board. Tape measure Painter’s tape
In the example shown, the picture rail is Power miter saw Moldings
installed using a level line to maintain height. If T-bevel Pneumatic fasteners
your ceiling is uneven, you may choose to install Pneumatic finish nail 15⁄8" wallboard screws
picture rail a set distance from the ceiling to avoid an gun & compressor Hole filler
uneven appearance.
■ How to Install Picture Rail Molding

1 2
Measure down the desired distance from the ceiling Use a T-bevel to measure the angle of the corner,
and draw a level reference line around the room using a pencil tightening the lock nut with the blade and the handle on the
and a 4-ft. level (or, take advantage of modern technology and reference line. Place the T-bevel on the table of your power
use a laser level). While you are up there, use a stud finder to miter saw and adjust the miter blade so that it matches the
locate the framing members, and mark the locations on the angle. See page 13.
walls with blue painter’s tape.

3 4
Most corners are close to 90°, but to cut a tight inside Read the angle from the miter saw table, divide the
corner, the actual angle must be divided exactly in half. With number by two, and add or subtract that number from 45
the T-bevel tight to the fence, read the angle the saw is set degrees to find the proper cutting angle for each corner. Cut
to when it aligns with the T-bevel. If the blade is angled to each molding slightly longer than the measured length.
the right of zero degrees the angle is larger than 90; to the
left, smaller.
5 6
Nail the molding at the stud locations covering the level Fill nail holes with wood filler. Let the filler dry and sand it
line around the room (if you’re using a laser level, you simply smooth. Then apply a final coat of paint over the molding face.
keep it in position and turned on to cast a reference line you
can follow). After each molding is completely nailed in place,
go back to each stud location and drive 15⁄8" wallboard screws
into the molding through counter-bored pilot holes.
Installing Picture Rail ■ 13

4. Installing Chair Rail
C hair rail molding typically runs horizontally along

walls at a height of around 36" (the rule of thumb
is to install it one-third of the way up the wall).
Originally installed to protect walls from collisions
with chair backs, today chair rail is commonly used to
divide a wall visually. Chair rail may cap wainscoting,
serve as a border for wallpaper, or divide two different
colors on a wall. Or, more interesting chair rail profiles
can be effective alone on a one-color wall.
Stock chair rail moldings are available at most
lumberyards and home centers. However, more
intricate and elaborate chair rails can be crated by
combining multiple pieces of trim. Keep in mind the
height of your existing furnishings when installing
a chair rail. It is not good to find out that the new
molding has a bad visual effect with your couch or
chair backs when the project is completed.

Pencil Metal file set
Stud finder Moldings
Tape measure Pneumatic fasteners
Power miter saw Painter’s tape
4-ft. level Carpenter’s glue
Air compressor Finishing putty Chair rail once was installed to protect fragile walls from chair
Finish nail gun Finishing materials backs, but today it is mainly installed as a decorative accent
that breaks up dull walls visually.
■ How to Install Chair Rail

1 2
On the starting wall of your installation, measure up the Measure, cut, and install the first piece of chair rail with the
desired height at which you plan to install the chair rail, minus ends cut squarely, butting into both walls (in a wall run with
the width of the molding. Mark a level line at this height around two inside corners). Nail the molding in place with two 2" finish
the room. Locate all studs along the walls and mark their nails at each stud location.
locations with painter’s tape below the line.

3 4
Coped joint
Coped piece
Butted piece
Miter-cut the second piece of When the coped joint fits tightly, measure, mark, and cut the opposing end of
molding with a power miter saw and the second piece of trim squarely with a miter saw. Nail the second piece in place
then cope the end with a coping saw. with two nails at each stud location. Follow the level line with the bottom edge of
Clean up the edge of the cope cut with a the molding.
metal file to ensure a tight fit. Dry-fit the
piece to check for any gaps in the joint.
Install the third piece of chair rail with a cope cut at one end. Use a butt joint Option: Cut a mitered return for the
where the molding runs into door and window casings. Fill all nail holes with putty chair rail in areas where it will end
and apply a final coat of finish to the molding. without joining into another molding.
Cut the return with a miter saw and glue
it in place, using painter’s tape to hold it
until the glue dries.
Installing Chair Rail ■ 15

5. Installing a Built-up Chair Rail
D esigning and installing a built-up chair rail can be

a very creative project that adds a considerable
amount of style to any room. For the project shown,
five smaller pieces of trim are combined with a 1×4
filler strip to create a bold, strong chair rail. If you are
considering a larger built-up chair rail, make sure the
existing base and crown moldings of the room will not
be overshadowed. A good scale rule to remember is
that chair rail should always be smaller than the crown
or base.
If you plan to design your own molding, the
choices are just about endless. It is a good idea to
mimic the style of your existing moldings so that the
new chair rail will not look out of place. If the room
you are installing in currently has no chair rail, consider
new wall finishes as well. Two-tone painted walls will
emphasize the transition of a chair rail, as will changing
the finish from paint to wallpaper or wainscoting.

Ladder 4-ft. level
Pencil or laser level
Stud finder Painter’s tape
Tape measure Moldings
Power miter saw Pneumatic fasteners
Coping saw 15⁄8" wallboard sscrews A built-up chair rail is made up of several styles of moldings,
so the design options are virtually unlimited. The profile shown
Pneumatic finish nail Hole filler here features a strip of screen retainer on top of two pieces
gun & compressor Finish materials of profiled door stop. The stop molding is attached to a 1×4
Drill with bits filler that is then softened at the top and bottom edges with
cover molding.
■ Choosing a Chair Rail Return
Before you begin installing the molding pieces of the built-up chair rail, decide what type of return you will use. Returns
are finish details that occur in areas where different moldings meet at perpendicular angles, or quit in the middle of a wall. A
beveled return (left) is a bit difficult to produce but has a clean look. On some built-up chair rail, you can take advantage of the
depth of the molding by butting the back moldings up to the obstructions but running the cap moldings onto the surface (right).

■ How to Install a Built-Up Chair Rail
On the starting wall of your installation,
1 mark the desired height of the first chair
rail component you will install (here, the
1 × 4 filler strip). At this height, mark a level
line around the room. Locate all studs
along the walls and mark their locations
with painter’s tape above the line.
Cut and install the 1 × 4 filler strip so

2 that the top edge of the strip follows the
level line around the room. Fasten the
strip with two, 21⁄2" finish nails driven
at every stud location. Butt the ends
of the filler strip together, keeping in
mind that the joints will be covered by
additional moldings.
Cut and install the upper piece of

3 cove molding around the room, nailing
it flush to the top edge of the 1 × 4 filler
strip. Use scarf joints on long runs, coped
joints at inside corners and mitered joints
on outside corners. Drive one nail at
every stud location into the wall and one
nail between each stud down into the
filler strip.
(continued)
Installing a Built-up Chair Rail ■ 17

Install the lower piece of cove molding
4 flush with the bottom edge of the filler
strip. Use the same nailing sequence
as with the upper cove molding. Cut
scarf joints on long runs, coped joints
at inside corners, and mitered joints on
outside corners.
Measure, cut, and install the upper

5 piece of stop molding around the room,
driving two 21⁄2" finish nails at each stud
location. Cut scarf joints, coped joints,
and mitered joints as necessary for each
piece. Stagger the seams of the scarf
joints on the stop molding so that they
do not line up with the scarf joints of the
cove moldings.
Install the lower piece of stop molding

6 around the room, keeping the edge of
the molding flush with the bottom edge
of the filler strip. Fit each joint using the
appropriate joinery method. Drive two
nails at each stud location.

7 8
Screen molding will
conceal gap between
stop molding strips
Set a combination square to 13⁄8". Rest the body of the Install the screen retainer molding, as with the other
square on the top edge of the upper stop molding and use moldings, using the appropriate joints necessary. Fine-tune the
the blade of the square as a guide to mark a reference line cope cuts using a round metal file. Nail the molding in place
around the room. This line represents the top edge of the with a brad nailer and 15⁄8" brad nails. Keep the top edge of the
screen molding. molding flush with the reference line from step 7.
9 10
Set any nail heads with a nail set Use a paintbrush to apply a final coat of paint to the moldings. Cover the finished
and fill all the nail holes with paintable floor with a drop cloth and protect the lower portion of the wall from drips by
wood filler. Check for any gaps in the masking it off with plastic if necessary.
joinery and fill them as well. Let the filler
dry and sand it smooth with 180-grit
sandpaper. Wipe the moldings with a dry
cloth to remove any dust.
Installing a Built-up Chair Rail ■ 19

6. Installing Basic Crown Molding
S imply put, crown molding is angled trim that

bridges the joint between the ceiling and the wall.
In order to cover this joint effectively, crown moldings
Inside corner joints of crown molding should
be cope cut, not mitered, except in the case of very
intricate profile crown that is virtually impossible to
are “sprung.” This means that the top and bottom cope (and must therefore be mitered). While mitering
edges of the molding have been beveled, so when the inside corners may appear to save time and produce
molding is tilted away from the wall at an angle the adequate results, after a few changing seasons the joints
tops and bottoms are flush on the wall and ceiling will open up and be even more difficult to conceal.
surfaces. Some crown moldings have a 45° angle at Although many people install crown molding with
both the top and the bottom edges; another common nails driven directly into the ceiling and wall framing,
style (“38° crown”) has a 38° angle on one edge and a irregularities in the surfaces are easier to overcome
52° angle on the other edge. and adjustments are easier to make if the molding is
Installing crown molding can be a challenging and nailed to a backing board. Backing boards or angled
sometimes confusing process. Joints may be difficult cleats are a convenient way to anchor crown molding
for you to visualize before cutting, and wall and without concern for stud or joist locations. They also
ceiling irregularities can be hard to overcome. If you eliminate the need for construction adhesive along
have not worked on crown molding joints before, it is the joint between the ceiling and the molding, on
recommended that your first attempt be made with walls that are parallel with ceiling joists. Nailing the
paint-grade materials. Stain-grade crown is commonly crown to a solid backer will allow you to hide many
made of solid hardwood stock, which makes for irregularities in the walls and ceiling, but not all of
expensive cutting errors, and difficulty concealing them. To fill gaps 1⁄8" or smaller use paintable caulk.
irregularities in joints. To fill in gaps on clear-coat finishes, tape off the edge
Basic crown molding softens the transitions between walls and ceilings. If it is made from quality hardwood crown molding can
be quite beautiful when installed and finished with a clear topcoat. But historically, it is most often painted—either the same color
as the ceiling (your eye tends to see it as a ceiling molding, not a wall molding) or with highly elaborate painted and carved details.

of the molding with painter’s tape and fill the gap with difficult to do accurately, but with a 10" or a 12" saw it
wallboard compound. works quite well for basic crown moldings.
There are two methods to cutting crown molding If you have a larger molding that does not fit
on a power miter saw. The first is to hold the molding under the blade of your saw in the sprung position,
in a sprung position against the fence with the top you’ll need to cut this molding flat on the saw table
edge of the molding against the saw table, or upside with a compound saw. Many power miter saws
down. In this set-up, the position of the molding have positive stops on both the miter and the bevel
relative to the saw table and fence is the same as it gauge that make it possible to cut crown molding at
will be relative to the wall and ceiling.This may sound compound angles while it is lying flat on the saw table.

Pencil Nail set
Tape measure Hammer
Circular saw Metal files
Straightedge guide 2 × 4 material
Drill with bits for backing
Coping saw 3" wallboard screws
Power miter saw Carpenter’s glue
Pneumatic finish Crown molding, 2"
Cutting compound miters is tricky. Throughout this book, nail gun 11⁄2" finish nails
crown molding is shown being mitered with the workpiece
held against a fence or fence extension. This hand-held
Framing square Fine-grit sandpaper
approach is quick and effective, but takes some getting used or combination Hole filler
to. A practically foolproof option is to use an adjustable jig, square Paint and brushes
such as the compound miter jig shown here.
Butted to wall
Mitered joint Coped joint
3
4
Plan the order of the installation to minimize the number of difficult joints on each piece and use the longest pieces for the
most visible sections of wall. Notice that the left end of first piece is cope-cut rather than butted into the wall. Cope-cutting the first
end eliminates the need to cope-cut both ends of the final piece, and places the cuts in the same direction. This simplifies your
installation, making the method to cut each piece similar.
Installing Basic Crown Molding ■ 21

■ How to Use Backers to Install Crown Molding
1 2
Backer block 1
⁄ 8" gap
Leg 1
Leg 2
Leg 2
Screw backer block
to wall cap plate
with 2 1⁄ 2" or 3" deck screws
Leg 1
Installing crown molding is greatly simplified if you first Locate the wall studs with a stud finder and mark the
attach triangular backers in the crotch area between the walls locations on the wall with blue painter’s tape. Secure the
and ceilings. You can run the backers continuously along all backer block to the wall by driving 21⁄2" or 3" deck screws at
walls or you can space them at regular intervals for use as an angle through the block and into the top plate of the wall.
nailers. To measure the required length for the triangle legs, set Now, your crown molding can be attached to the backers
a piece of the crown molding in the sprung position in a square wherever you’d like to nail it. Install crown according to the
in an orientation like the inset photo above. Rip triangular backer following instructions.
strips from 2× stock on your table saw, with the blade set at 45°.
■ How to Install Basic Crown Molding

1 2
Test cope cuts
against this profile
Cut a piece of crown molding about 1-ft. long with square Place the first piece of molding upside down and sprung
ends. Temporarily install the piece in the corner of the last against the fence of the miter saw. Mark a reference line on
installation wall with two screws driven into the blocking. This the fence for placement of future moldings, and cut the first
piece serves as a template for the first cope cut on the first coped end with an inside miter cut to reveal the profile of
piece of molding. the piece.

3 4
Temporary scrap
Cope-cut the end of the first piece Measure, cut to length, and install the first piece of crown molding, leaving the
with a coping saw. Carefully cut along end near the temporary scrap loose for final fitting of the last piece. Nail the molding
the profile, angling the saw as you cut to at the top and bottom of each stud location.
back-bevel the cope. Test-fit the coped
cut against the temporary scrap from
Step 1. Fine-tune the cut with files and
fine-grit sandpaper.
5 Test pieces 6
Cut two test pieces to check the fit of outside corners. Start Position the actual stock so a cut end is flush against the
with each molding cut at 45°, adjusting the angles larger or wall at one end and, at the other end, mark the outside corner
smaller until the joints are tight. Make sure the test moldings on the back edge of the molding. Miter-cut the piece at the
are properly aligned and are flush with the ceiling and walls. mark, according to the angles you noted on the test pieces.
Make a note of your saw settings once the joint fits tightly.
(continued)

7 8
Measure and cut the third piece with an outside corner To fit the final piece, cope the end and cut it to length.
miter to match the angle of your test pieces. Cut the other end Remove the temporary scrap piece from Step 3, and slide
squarely, butting it into the corner. Install the piece with nails the last molding into position. Nail the last piece at the
driven at stud locations. Install the subsequent pieces of crown stud locations when the joints fit well, and finish nailing the
molding, coping the front end and butting the other as you first piece.
work around the room.
How to Make a Scarf Joint Using Crown Molding ▸
Use scarf joints when necessary, laying out the joint Lightly sand the face of the scarf joint with fine-grit
so it falls over a stud location. Keep the saw at the same sandpaper to smooth out the face of the joint.
angle to cut the second piece, and apply a bead of glue to
the joint before nailing the molding in place.

Fill all nail holes (use spackling
9 compound if painting; wait until the finish
is applied and fill with tinted putty for
clear finishes). Use a putty knife to force
spackling compound or tinted wood
putty into loose joints and caulk gaps
1
⁄8" or smaller between the molding and
the wall or ceiling with flexible, paintable,
latex caulk.
For gaps larger than 1⁄8” between the

10 molding and the wall or ceiling, use a
wallboard knife and compound to skim
coat the wall and fill in the gap. Protect
the finished surface of the molding with
painter’s tape.
Lightly sand the filled nail holes and joint

11 gaps with fine sandpaper. Sand the nail
hole flush with the surface of the moldings
and apply a final coat of paint to the
entire project.

7. Creating a Built-up Cornice
D esigning your own cornice molding is a creative

and fun process. A cornice is basically an
elaborate crown molding, decorating the area where
not an option, consider using a backer block fastened
directly to the wall studs as done in the project
“Installing Basic Crown Molding” (page 20). A backer
the wall meets the ceiling. Traditional cornices are block allows you to firmly nail moldings in place when
made of plaster, one continuous solid molding piece, there are no joists in the ceiling to nail to. In the event
or a combination of simple molding pieces—called you do not have framing or a blocking to nail to, use a
a built-up cornice. Built-up types are the most bead of construction adhesive to adhere the molding
common today because the individual moldings are to the ceiling and drive nails at opposing angles to hold
much cheaper and easier to install than one large the molding in place until the adhesive dries.
piece. Built-up moldings also allow you to create The cornice shown in this project starts with a
a custom-designed molding that fits with the style 13⁄8" colonial stop installed along the ceiling, and a
of your room. To design your own cornice, visit band of 31⁄2" baseboard run along the wall. A simple
a well-stocked lumberyard or home center and crown molding is then fastened to the two moldings to
gather several molding samples of different types: complete the cornice.
baseboard, stop, crown, and bed moldings, as well as
smaller trims, like quarter rounds and coves. Bring
the samples home and arrange them in different
combinations and positions to find the best design. Tools & Materials ▸
As you design your cornice, be careful not to
overwhelm the room with a large, complicated Pencil Hammer
molding. A good general rule is to try to match the size Tape measure Molding
of the cornice to the overall size of your baseboard. Chalk line 2" and 11⁄4"
Baseboard creates a visual balance with cornice when Power miter saw finish nails
the two are proportionate. Pneumatic Carpenter’s glue
Backing is another serious issue to consider when finish nailer Construction
designing a built-up cornice. Whenever possible, install Nail set adhesive
blocking inside the wall or ceiling. When blocking is
Stop
molding
Crown
molding
Baseboard

■ How to Create a Built-up Cornice
1 2
Cut a 4"- to 6"-long piece from each type of molding. Glue or Locate and mark all of the wall studs and ceiling joists,
nail the pieces together in the desired arrangement to create a marking in areas that will be hidden by the crown molding.
marking template. Position the template flush with the wall and
ceiling and mark along the outside edges of the ceiling and
wall moldings. Mark at both ends of each wall.
3 4
Locate and mark all of the wall studs and ceiling joists, Install the ceiling trim, aligning its outside edge with the
marking in areas that will be hidden by the crown molding. chalk line. Nail into the joists with 2" (6d) finish nails, and miter
Snap chalk lines between the template marks you made in the joints at the inside and outside corners. Wherever possible,
Step 2 (you can also mark with a pencil and level). If the ceiling place the nails where they’ll be hidden by the crown molding.
has a deep texture, scrape off the texture just behind the chalk
lines, using a drywall taping knife.
(continued)
Creating a Built-up Cornice ■ 27

5 6
Where walls run parallel to the ceiling joists, and there Install the vertical band trim along the walls, nailing into
are no joists to nail into, apply a bead of construction adhesive each stud with two 2" nails. Miter the band at outside corners.
to the trim and nail it in place with pairs of nails driven at
opposing angles. If you’re handnailing, drill oversized pilot
holes and secure the trim with coarse-thread drywall screws.
Let the adhesive dry before starting the next step.
7 8
Cope the molding at inside corners by first cutting a 45° angle on the piece. Add the crown molding, fastening it
Then cope-cut the angle with a coping saw. Cut along the front edge of the molding, to the ceiling trim and wall band with 11⁄4"
following the contour. Test-fit the cut and fine-tune it with a metal file if necessary. (3d) nails. Miter the molding at outside
corners, and miter or cope the inside
corners. Use a nail set to set all nails that
aren’t countersunk.

Cornice Variations ▸
Stop molding
Quarter
round
Crown molding
2×2 1×2
Band
Picture rail
Crown molding
Use picture rail (page 12) to enhance a cornice molding. Install blocking to provide a nailing surface and added
Standard height for picture rail is about 10" to 12" below bulk to a built-up cornice. In this simple arrangement,
the ceiling, but you can place it at any level. For a simple a 2 × 2 block, or nailing strip, is screwed to the wall
variation of the project shown, use square-edged stock studs. A facing made from 1 × 2 finish lumber is nailed
for the band (since the bottom edge will mostly be to the blocking and is trimmed along the ceiling with
hidden), and add picture rail just below the band. Be sure quarter-round. The crown molding is nailed to the wall
to leave enough room for placing picture hooks. studs along the bottom and to the nailer along the top.
This highly detailed Victorian-style built-up cornice Built up cornice treatments can be as simple or
is made up of several pieces of stock trim and solid complex as you would like. This Arts & Crafts variation
stock ripped down to different widths. The right-angle is made up of flat solid stock ripped down to specific
component of this cornice may be screwed directly to the dimensions. Two pieces of 1 × 2 stock are fastened
wall, to serve both a decorative function as well as serve together to form an “L” shaped angle. The angle is then
as a nailer for the other trim elements. The screw holes screwed to the wall at the stud locations. An additional
are covered when the crown molding is installed. piece of 1" wide stock is nailed in place so the top edge
is flush with the installed angle. This configuration creates
a stepped cornice with a simpler appearance than the
traditional sprung moldings. Notice that the “L” angle is
nailed together with a slight gap at the back edge. This is
done to compensate for irregularities in the corner joint.
Creating a Built-up Cornice ■ 29

8. Installing Polymer Crown Molding
P olymer moldings come in a variety of ornate,

single-piece styles that offer easy installation
and maintenance. The polystyrene or polyurethane
material is as easy to cut as softwood, but unlike wood, Drill with Finish nails
the material won’t shrink, and it can be repaired with countersink- 150-grit sandpaper
vinyl spackling compound. piloting bit Rag
You can buy polymer moldings preprimed for Power miter saw or Mineral spirits
painting, or you can stain it with a nonpenetrating hand miter box Polymer adhesive
heavy-body stain or gel. Most polymers come in 12-ft. and fine-tooth saw 2" drywall screws
lengths, and some have corner blocks that eliminate Caulk gun Vinyl spackling
corner cuts. There are even flexible moldings for Putty knife compound
curved walls. Crown molding Paintable latex caulk
■ How to Install Polymer Crown Molding

1 2
Plan the layout of the molding pieces by measuring the Hold a section of molding against the wall and ceiling in the
walls of the room and making light pencil marks at the joint finished position. Make light pencil marks on the wall every 12"
locations. For each piece that starts or ends at a corner, add along the bottom edge of the molding. Remove the molding,
12" to 24" to compensate for waste. If possible, avoid pieces and tack a finish nail at each mark. The nails will hold the
shorter than 36", because short pieces are more difficult to fit. molding in place while the adhesive dries. If the wall surface is
plaster, drill pilot holes for the nails.
3 4
To make the miter cuts for the first corner, position Check the uncut ends of each molding piece before
the molding faceup in a miter box. Set the ceiling side of the installing it. Make sure mating pieces will butt together
molding against the horizontal table of the miter box, and set squarely in a tight joint. Cut all square ends at 90°, using a
the wall side against the vertical back fence. Make the cut at 45°. miter saw or hand miter box.

5 6
Lightly sand the backs of the molding that will contact the Set the molding in place with the mitered end tight to the
wall and ceiling, using 150-grit sandpaper. Slightly dampen a corner and the bottom edge resting on the nails. Press along
rag with mineral spirits, and wipe away the dust. Run a small the molding edges to create a good bond. At each end of the
bead of polymer adhesive (recommended or supplied by the piece, drive 2" drywall screws through countersunk pilot holes
manufacturer) along both sanded edges. through the flats and into the ceiling and wall.
7 8
Cut, sand, and glue the next piece of molding. Apply a Carefully remove the finish nails and fill the nail holes with
bead of adhesive to the end where the installed molding will vinyl spackling compound. Fill the screw holes in the molding
meet the new piece. Install the new piece, and secure the ends and any gaps in the joints with paintable latex caulk or filler,
with screws, making sure the ends are joined properly. Install and wipe away excess caulk with a damp cloth or a wet finger.
the remaining molding pieces, and let the adhesive dry. Smooth the caulk over the holes so it’s flush with the surface.
Installing Polymer Crown Molding ■ 31

9. Installing Crown Molding Lighting
F lexible, low-voltage rope lights hidden above a

crown molding create a soft, comforting light
effect that is much more relaxing than direct lighting.
When combined with light-colored walls and ceilings,
this system provides cool, balanced lighting, with no
eye-straining glare. A stand-alone run along a wall can
be used to draw attention to a room’s focal point.
Rope lights can be easily adapted to any length of
lighting run. Connect one rope to another by simply
removing the end caps and inserting male/female
connectors into the ends. You can also trim rope lighting
to length at marked cutting lines located every 18".

Stud finder Hammer
Pencil Nail set
Chalk line Crown molding
Drill Rope lighting
Tape measure 2 × 2 lumber
Bevel gauge 3" wallboard screws
Table saw 6d finish nails
or circular saw Mounting clips for
Miter saw rope lighting
Square (optional)
Jigsaw
■ How to Install Crown Molding Lighting

1 2
3" to 12"
Use a stud finder to locate studs in the installation area. Determine the location for your molding. To maximize
Mark the stud locations with light pencil marks near the ceiling, light reflection from the walls and ceiling, position the molding
making sure the lines will be visible when the trim is in place. 3" to 12" from the ceiling. Measure from the ceiling and mark a
Plan the layout order of the molding pieces so as to minimize point to represent the bottom edge of the molding. Mark at the
cuts and avoid noticeable joints. Also keep in mind the location ends of each wall that you plan to work on, then snap a chalk
of the receptacle that you plan to plug the rope lighting into. line between the marks.

3 4
Wallboard
Wall stud
Support
block
Crown molding
Shown
cutaway
Because the crown molding will not be fastened at the top, Set the molding in place along the chalk line. Have a
it is necessary to install support blocking. Use a bevel gauge to helper hold the molding in place as you drill pilot holes and
determine the precise angle of your crown molding. Rip 2 × 2 fasten it with 6d finish nails. Drive one nail into the stud along
lumber to this angle, using a table saw or circular saw. Fasten the lower edge of the molding and one into the support
the supports to wall studs using 3" screws. The supports can blocking. Use a nail set to recess the nail heads slightly.
be installed in long strips or cut into 6” blocks and attached at
each molding joint and every 4 ft. on long runs of molding.
5 6
Install the remaining sections Follow the manufacturer’s Variation: Flip the molding upside
of molding. When you are above the instructions to join or cut any down and attach it to the wall for a
receptacle you will use to power the segments of rope lighting to the proper cornice lighting effect. Attach the rope
rope lighting, cut a small notch in the length. Lay the rope light in the trough lighting to the top of the cornice with
molding with a jigsaw and lay the between the wall and molding and work mounting clips sold separately by
cord in the notch before fastening the it around the entire installation. You the manufacturer.
molding to the wall. may want to use mounting clips (sold
separately) to keep the rope lighting
lying flat. Plug in the light to activate it.
Installing Crown Molding Lighting ■ 33

10. Casing a Window or Door
S tock wood casings provide an attractive border

around window and door openings while covering
the gaps between the wall surface and the window
Wallboard screws rely on the strength of untorn
face paper to support the panel. If the paper around
the screws becomes torn, drive additional screws
jamb. Install casings with a consistent reveal between nearby where the paper is still intact.
the inside edges of the jambs and the edges of
the casings.
In order to fit casings properly, the jambs and Tools & Materials ▸
wall surfaces must be in the same plane. If one
of them protrudes, the casing will not lie flush. Tape measure Straightedge
To solve this problem, you may need to shave the Drill Miter saw
edges of the jambs down with a block plane. Or you Pencil Casing material
may need to attach jamb extensions to the window Nail set Baseboard molding
or door to match the plane of the wall. For small Hammer or and corner blocks
differences where a wallboard surface is too high, pneumatic nailer (optional)
you can sometimes use a hammer to compress the Level 4d and 6d finish nails
wallboard around the jambs to allow the casings to Combination square Wood putty
lie flush.

■ How to Install Mitered Casing on Windows & Doors
1 2 3
On each jamb, mark a reveal line 3⁄16" Place a length of casing along one Make 45° miter cuts on the ends
to 1⁄4" from the inside edge. The casings side jamb, flush with the reveal line. of the moldings. Measure and cut the
will be installed flush with these lines. At the top and bottom of the molding, other vertical molding piece, using the
mark the points where horizontal same method.
and vertical reveal lines meet. (When
working with doors, mark the molding at
the top only.)
4 5 6
Drill pilot holes spaced every 12" to Measure the distance between the Locknail the corner joints by drilling
prevent splitting, and attach the vertical side casings and cut top and bottom pilot holes and driving 4d finish nails
casings with 4d finish nails driven casings to fit, with ends mitered at 45°. through each corner, as shown. Drive
through the casings and into the jambs. If window or door unit is not perfectly all nail heads below the wood surface,
Drive 6d finish nails into the framing square, make test cuts on scrap pieces using a nail set, then fill the nail holes
members near the outside edge of to find the correct angle of the joints. with wood putty.
the casings. Drill pilot holes and attach with 4d and
6d finish nails.
Casing a Window or Door ■ 35

11. Installing Stool & Apron Window Trim
S tool and apron trim brings a traditional look to

a window, and is most commonly used with
double-hung styles. The stool serves as an interior
sill; the apron (or the bottom casing) conceals the gap
between the stool and the finished wall.
In many cases, such as with 2×6 walls, jamb
extensions made from 1×2 finish-grade lumber need to
be installed to bring the window jambs flush with the
finished wall. Many window manufacturers also sell
jamb extensions for their windows.
The stool is usually made from 1×2 finish-grade
lumber, cut to fit the rough opening, with “horns” at
each end extending along the wall for the side casings
to butt against. The horns extend beyond the outer
edge of the casing by the same amount that the front
edge of the stool extends past the face of the casing,
usually under 1".
If the edge of the stool is rounded, beveled, or
otherwise decoratively routed, you can create a more
finished appearance by returning the ends of the stool
to hide the end grain. A pair of miter cuts at the rough
horn will create the perfect cap piece for wrapping
the grain of the front edge of the stool around the
horn. The same can be done for an apron cut from a
molded casing.
As with any trim project, tight joints are the
secret to a successful stool and apron trim job. Take
your time to ensure all the pieces fit tightly. Also,
use a pneumatic nailer—you don’t want to spend
all that time shimming the jambs perfectly only to
knock them out of position with one bad swing of
a hammer.
Tip ▸

Tape measure Pneumatic nailer
Straightedge (optional)
Circular saw 1 × finish lumber
or jigsaw Casing
Handsaw Wood shims
Plane or rasp 4d, 6d, and 8d
Drill finish nails “Back-cut” the ends of casing pieces where needed
Hammer to help create tight joints, using a sharp utility knife.

■ How to Install Stool & Apron Window Trim
1 2
Edge of window
rough opening
Stool
Setback
Setback
Setback Horn
Waste
Stool
Temporary support block
Cut the board for the stool to length, with several extra inches at each end for Cut out the notches to create the
the horns. Temporarily position the stool in the window opening, pressed against the stool horns. For straight lines, you can
wall and centered on the window. Use a combination square to measure the setback use a large handsaw, but for the scribed
distance from the window frame to the near edge of the stool. Mark the setback line use a more maneuverable saw like
onto the stool at each edge of the window rough opening (if the measurements are the jigsaw or a coping saw. Test-fit the
different, use the greater setback distance for each end). Then, use a compass and stool, making any minor adjustments
pencil to scribe the profile of the wall onto the stool to complete the cutting line for with a plane or a rasp so it fits tightly
the horn (inset photo). to the window frame and flush against
the walls.
Horn
45° Waste
45° Return Return
To create a return at the horn of the stool, miter-cut the return pieces at 45° angles. Mark the stool at its overall length and
cut it to size with 45° miter cuts. Glue the return to the mitered end of the horn so the grain wraps around the corner. Note: Use
this same technique to create the returns on the apron, but make the cuts with the apron held on-edge, rather than flat.
(continued)
Installing Stool & Apron Window Trim ■ 37

Tip ▸ 4
Jig
Width at top
left corner
1× lumber
Width at top
right corner
Where jamb extensions are needed, cut the

head extension to its finished length—the distance
between the window side jambs plus the thickness
of both side extensions (typically 1× stock). For the
width, measure the distance between the window Clamp the jig on the reference line, then rip the extension
jamb and the finished wall at each corner, then mark to width, using a circular saw; keep the baseplate tight
the measurements on the ends of the extension. Use against the jig and move the saw smoothly through the board.
a straightedge to draw a reference line connecting Reposition the clamp when you near the end of the cut. Cut
the points. Build a simple cutting jig, as shown. both side extensions to length and width, using the same
technique as for the head extension (see Tip).
5 6
Stool
Side extensions
Head extension
Build a box frame with the extensions and stool, using 6d Apply wood glue to the back edge of the frame, then
finish nails and a pneumatic nailer. Measure to make sure the position it against the front edge of the window jambs. Use
box has the same dimensions as the window jambs. Drive nails wood shims to adjust the frame, making sure the pieces
through the top of the head extension into the side extensions, are flush with the window jambs. Fasten the frame at each
and through the bottom of the stool into side extensions. shim location, using 8d finish nails driven through pilot holes.
Loosely pack insulation between the studs and the jambs, or
use minimal-expanding spray foam.

7 Reveal mark
8 Head casing
Reveal
Stool
On the edge of each jamb or jamb extension, mark a 3⁄16" Cut the side casings to rough length, leaving the ends
to 1⁄4" reveal. Place a length of casing along the head extension, slightly long for final trimming. Miter one end at 45°. With the
aligned with the reveal marks at the corners. Mark where the pointed end on the stool, mark the height of the side casing at
reveal marks intersect, then make 45° miter cuts at each point. the top edge of the head casing.
Reposition the casing at the head extension and attach, using
4d finish nails at the extensions, and 6d finish nails at the
framing members.
9 10 11
To get a tight fit for side casings, Test-fit the casings, making any final Cut the apron to length, leaving a
align one side of a T-bevel with the adjustments with a plane or rasp. Fasten few inches at each end for creating
reveal, mark the side extension and the casing with 4d finish nails at the the returns (step 3). Position the apron
position the other side flush against the extensions, and 6d finish nails at the tight against the bottom edge of the
horn. Transfer the angle from the T-bevel framing members. stool, then attach it, using 6d finish nails
to the end of the casing, and cut the driven every 12".
casing to length.
Installing Stool & Apron Window Trim ■ 39

12. Installing Arts & Crafts Casing
T raditional Arts & Crafts casings are made of

simple, flat materials with little to no decorative
molding trimmed out of the stock. Add nonmitered
oak is easily distinguishable from plain-sawn oak
by its tight grain pattern laced with rays of lighter
color, also known as rifts. Quarter-sawn oak is more
corners to the mix, and this casing becomes as expensive than plain oak, and may only be available
plain as possible. The back band installed on the at lumberyards or hardwood supply stores, depending
perimeter of this project is optional, but it adds upon your area. Either plain sawn or quartersawn oak
depth to the window treatment while maintaining will fit the style of this casing.
simple style. To begin the installation of this trim style, refer to
Traditionally, the wood used for this style of trim pages 38 and 39 to read the step-by-step process for
is quartersawn oak. The term “quartersawn” refers installing jamb extensions, if necessary, and the stool
to the method of milling the material. Quartersawn portion of this project.

Tape measure Back band trim
Straightedge Wood shims
Power miter saw 4d, 6d, and 8d
Circular saw finish nails
or jigsaw Finishing putty
Hand saw
Plane or rasp
Drill hammer
Pneumatic nailer
Combination square
Compass
Nail set
1 × 4 finish
lumber
The Arts & Crafts style is

similar to the overall look and
feel of Mission furniture, as
can be seen in this relatively
simple oak window casing.

■ How to Install Arts & Crafts Casing
1 2
Follow the step-by-step process on pages 38 to 39 to To find the length of the head casing and apron,
install the stool and jamb extensions. Set a combination square measure the distance between the reveal lines on the side
to 3⁄16" or 1⁄4" and mark a reveal line on the top and side jambs. jambs and add twice the width of the side casings. Cut the
head casing and the apron to length. Install the head casing
flush with the top reveal line. Use a scrap piece of trim to line
up the head casing horizontally.
Back band
3 4
Measure and cut the side casings to length. Install them Measure, cut, and install the back band around the
flush with the reveal lines. Make sure the joints at the top and perimeter of the window casings, mitering the joints at the
bottom are tight. Measure the distance to the end of the stool corners. Continue the back band around the edge of the apron,
from the outer edge of the side casing. Install the apron tight mitering the corners. Nail the back band in place with 4d
to the bottom of the stool at the same dimension from the end finish nails.
of the stool.
Installing Arts & Crafts Casing ■ 41

13. Installing a Window Shelf
S helves may be hung above windows as novelty top

treatments to showcase plants and collections. They
can be used alone or in combination with other window
Shelf Variations ▸
treatments, such as curtains. In that case, mount the
shelf with brackets hidden under the valance.
Although the end pieces in this project act as
supports for the shelf, also secure the shelf to a
horizontal support piece. Then, attach the whole unit
to the wall with wood screws. If heavy items are to be
displayed, drill more pilot holes for the wood screws to
be closer together for added strength.
Whatever the size of the items to be displayed,
you can adjust the depth of the shelf unit to
accommodate them.

Hammer Nail set
Drill and bits 1 × 8 and
Add larger supports at the shelf ends to
Circular saw 1 × 2 lumber
accommodate a dowel for hanging dried flowers and
Jigsaw 2" wood screws herbs. A coordinating “backsplash” provides a way to
Router 6d casing nails attach the shelf to the wall. Attach hooks to the underside
Sander Paint or stain of the shelf to hang other collectibles or keepsakes.

■ How to Build a Window Shelf
1 2
Cut the 1 × 8 shelf board and the 1 × 2 horizontal support Cut out the two end pieces from 1 × 8 lumber. If the design
piece the same length as the total width of the window unit, has only straight lines, use a circular saw. If it includes curves,
including the outer casing. Attach the shelf to the support at a use a jigsaw.
90° angle, using 2" wood screws spaced every 6" to 10".
3 4
Add a design to the end supports, using a router. Sand Drill pilot holes in the support piece every 6" to 10", avoiding
smooth the faces and edges that will be exposed. Attach end screws attaching the shelf to the horizontal support. Attach
supports to shelf unit using wood glue and 6d casing nails. Use shelf unit to wall just above window casing, using 2" wood
a nail set to recess the nail heads. Finish the unit by staining screws driven through pilot holes. Plug and finish screw holes,
or painting. if desired.
Installing a Window Shelf ■ 43

14. Trimming a Basement Window Opening
B asement windows bring much-needed sunlight

into dark areas, but even in finished basements
they often get ignored on the trim front. This is partly
and then trimmed out with oak casing. The casing
is applied flush with the inside edges of the frame
opening. If you prefer to have a reveal edge around the
because most basement foundation walls are at least interior edge of the casing, you will need to add a solid
8" thick, and often a lot thicker. Add a furred-out hardwood strip to the edge of the frame so the plies of
wall and the window starts to look more like a tunnel the plywood are not visible.
with a pane of glass at the end. But with some well
designed and well-executed trim carpentry, you can
turn the depth disadvantage into a positive. Tools & Materials ▸
A basement window opening may be finished with
wallboard, but the easiest way to trim one is by making Pencil Finish-grade 3⁄4"
extrawide custom jambs that extend from the inside Tape measure oak plywood
face of the window frame to the interior wall surface. Table saw Spray-foam insulation
Because of the extra width, plywood stock is a good Drill with bits Composite or cedar
choice for the custom jambs. The project shown here 2-ft level wood shims
is created with veneer-core plywood with oak veneer Framing square 11⁄4, 2" finish nails
surface. The jamb members are fastened together into Utility knife 15⁄8" drywall screws
a nice square frame using rabbet joints at the corner. Straightedge Carpenter’s glue
The frame is scribed and installed as a single unit
Because they are set into thick foundation walls, basement windows present a bit of a trimming challenge. But the thickness
of the foundation wall also lets you create a handy ledge that’s deep enough to hold potted plants or even sunning cats.

■ How to Trim a Basement Window
1 2
Check to make sure the window frame and surrounding Set your table saw to make a rip cut to the width arrived at
area are dry and free of rot, mold or damage. At all four in step 1. If you don’t have a table saw, set up a circular saw
corners of the basement window, measure from the inside and straightedge cutting guide to cut strips to this length. With
edges of the window frame to the wall surface. Add 1" to the a fine-tooth panel-cutting blade, rip enough plywood strips to
longest of these measurements. make the four jamb frame components.
3 4
3
⁄ 8 × 3⁄ 4" rabbet
Miter gauge
Cross-cut the plywood strips to correct lengths. In Cut 3⁄8"-deep × 3⁄4"-wide rabbets at each end of the head
our case, we designed the jamb frame to be the exact same jamb and the sill jamb. A router table is the best tool for this
outside dimensions as the window frame, since there was job, but you may use a table saw or hand saws and chisels.
some space between the jamb frame and the rough opening. Inspect the jambs first and cut the rabbets in whichever face
is in better condition. To ensure uniformity, we ganged the two
jambs together (they’re the same length). It’s also a good idea
to include backer boards to prevent tear-out.
(continued)
Trimming a Basement Window Opening ■ 45

5 6
Glue and clamp the frame parts together, making sure to Before the glue sets, carefully drill three perpendicular pilot
clamp near each end from both directions. Set a carpenter’s holes, countersunk, through the rabbeted workpieces and into
square inside the frame and check it to make sure it’s square. the side jambs at each corner. Space the pilot holes evenly,
keeping the end ones at least 3⁄4" in from the end. Drive a 15⁄8"
drywall screw into each pilot hole, taking care not to overdrive.
Double check each corner for square as you work, adjusting
the clamps if needed.
7 8
Let the glue dry for at least one hour (overnight is better), Taking care not to disturb the frame’s position (rest a
then remove the clamps and set the frame in the window heavy tool on the sill to hold it in place if you wish), press a
opening. Adjust the frame so it is centered and level in the steel rule against the wall surface and mark trimming points
opening and the exterior-side edges fit flush against the at the point where the rule meets the jambs at each side of all
window frame. four frame corners, using a sharp pencil.

9 10
Scribe
line
Remove the frame and clamp it on a flat work surface. Use a straightedge to Replace the frame in the window
connect the scribe marks at the ends of each jamb frame side. Set the cutting depth opening in the same orientation as
of your circular saw to just a small fraction over 3⁄4". Clamp a straightedge guide to when you scribed it and install shims
the frame so the saw blade will follow the cutting line and trim each frame side in until it is level and centered in the
succession. (The advantage to using a circular saw here is that any tear-out from the opening. Drive a few finish nails (hand
blade will be on the nonvisible faces of the frame). or pneumatic) through the side jambs
into the rough frame. Also drive a few
nails through the sill jamb. Most trim
carpenters do not drive nails into the
head jamb.
11 12
Insulate between the jamb frame and the rough frame Remove the masking tape and clean up the mess from the
with spray-in polyurethane foam. Look for minimal-expanding foam (there is always some). Install case molding. We used
foam labeled “window and door” and don’t spray in too much. picture-frame techniques to install fairly simple oak casing.
Let the foam dry for a half hour or so and then trim off the
excess with a utility knife. Tip: Protect the wood surfaces near
the edges with wide strips of masking tape.
Trimming a Basement Window Opening ■ 47

15. Installing a Decorative Door Header
A dding a decorative head casing to a door is

a simple way to dress up your existing trim.
Although head treatments are more common over
doors, this project will work for window trim as well.
Designing your own decorative molding can be creative
and fun, but try not to overwhelm the room with an
elaborate piece, or it may detract from the décor.
Standard stock door casings have an outer-edge
thickness of approximately 11⁄16". Build your custom
header around this thickness. Use it to create a reveal
line to a thinner piece of trim, or build out from the
edge for a bolder, more substantial appear-ance. In
the project shown, a bed molding, or smaller piece of
crown molding, is used to build out the header away
from the wall. The ends of the molding are returned to
the wall, and the entire piece is capped with a piece of
lattice molding. Installing a decorative header of this
style on an interior door may require the installation
of additional blocking. For installation over an exterior
door or a window, nail the pieces in place directly to
the load-bearing framing in the wall above the opening.

Pencil Brad nail gun
Tape measure Moldings
Power miter saw Wood glue Replacing plain head casing on a door or window with a
Finish nail gun decorative built-up version is a quick and easy way to add
some sophistication to any ordinary feature of your home.
■ How to Install a Decorative Door Header

Measure the width of your door casing
1 and rough-cut a piece of bed or crown
molding 6" longer. Use the casing width
dimension to layout cut marks on the
bottom edge of the molding. Start the
marks 2" from the end to allow space for
cutting the mitered ends.

2 3
With the molding upside down and sprung against the Cut mitered returns for the molding using the leftover piece.
fence, cut a 45° outside corner miter angle at each end, on Set the angle of the power miter saw to the opposing 45°
the casing reference marks from step 1. See pages 20 to 21 angle and cut the returns with the molding upside down and
for more information on miter-cutting crown molding. sprung against the fence. Dry-fit the pieces, recutting them if
necessary. Apply glue to the return pieces and nail them to the
ends of the head molding with 1" brad nails.
4 5
Nail the new header in place with 21⁄2" finish nails driven Cut lattice molding 1" longer than the length of the bed
at an angle through the bed molding and into the framing molding and nail it in place with 5⁄8" brad nails so that it has a
members of the wall. uniform overhang of 1⁄2". Fill all nail holes with spackle and sand
them with fine-grit sandpaper. Apply the final coat of finish.
Installing a Decorative Door Header ■ 49

16. Trimming a Wall Opening
T rimming out a wallboard opening is an easy

way to add style to any room transition using
decorative trim. Although this project may be done
with paint-grade materials, clear finish adds detail and Pry bar
inviting wood grain, showcasing the opening. Side cutters
In the project shown, solid wood trim is used Pencil
to cover the wallboard jambs of the opening. This Tape measure
technique can also be accomplished with plywood Circular saw and straightedge guide
jambs. However, to maintain a constant reveal with 4-ft. level
the rest of the room, a thin strip of solid oak material Pneumatic finish nail gun
should be applied to the edges of the plywood to cover Power miter saw
the visible plies. This application should be done prior Framing square
to installing the jambs to avoid fastening difficulties. Jamb material (lumber or plywood)
The odds are good that the finished wallboard Case moldings
corners are irregular, causing some minor differences Base moldings
in wall thickness along the jambs of the opening. 21⁄2" finish nails
When these irregularities are minor, (less than 3⁄16"), Wood glue
it is best to cut the jamb material at the widest jamb Shims
measurement and let the casing bridge the difference. Scrap 2 × 4 material
When wall thickness varies a lot (3⁄16" or more), it is
better to cut tapered jambs to cover the difference.
Before
Passthrough openings between rooms

often are left very plain by the builders,
especially in more modern homes. Not
only is this a dull design statement, it
also exposes the edges of the wallboard
openings to damage. A little bit of door
casing and new jambs can bring new life
to the opening (and protect it as well).

■ How to Trim a Wall Opening
1 2
Remove the existing base molding with a pry bar and Measure the width and length of the head jamb and
hammer. Be careful not to mar the surface of the moldings as the width of each side jamb. Measure each jamb at both
you remove them. Pull the nails out of the moldings through ends as well as in the middle of each run. Take note of the
the back face with an end nippers or side cutters. measurements. If a jamb differs in width by more than 3⁄16",
install a tapered length (see Tip, below).
Tip ▸ 3
Guide
W
id
th
of
sa
w
Width at top fo
ot
left corner
1× lumber
Cutting
Width at top guide
right corner
Jamb stock
Jambs that do not taper can be cut on a table

saw, but if you have enough variation in your jamb
widths that a taper is called for, make a simple cutting Clamp a straightedge guide (Tip, left) to the head jamb on
jig and taper-cut the jambs to width with a circular the reference line from the measurements of Step 2, and cut
saw. Then, lay out the dimensions on the head jamb the piece to width with a circular saw. Keep the base plate
using the measurements from step 2. The head jamb tight against the fence and move the saw smoothly through
should run the full length of the opening the board. Reposition the clamp when you near the end of
the board.
(continued)
Trimming a Wall Opening ■ 51

4 5
Position the head jamb at the top of the opening, flush with Place a T-bevel on the floor at the bottom of each side jamb
the edges, and nail it in place starting in the middle. Before to check for any angled cuts necessary to follow the pitch of
nailing the ends of the head jamb, check it for square with the the floor. The handle of the bevel should rest against the outer
walls of the opening, adjusting with shims if necessary. Drive a face of the wall, with the blade across the floor.
pair of 2" finish nails every 16".
Transfer the angle from the T-bevel in step 5 to a power miter saw and cut the side jambs to length. The top end of the jamb
should be cut square (90°). Each jamb should butt against the head jamb and fit tightly to the finished flooring.

7 8
Nail the side jambs in place using pairs of 2" finish nails Install casing around the opening. Maintain a consistent
driven every 16" along the jamb. Check the edges of the jamb 3
⁄16" to 1⁄4" reveal around the opening.
pieces as you go to make sure they are flush with the surface
of the wall.
9 10
Measure, cut, and reinstall the existing baseboard so that Fill all nail holes with finishing putty and apply a final coat of
the ends butt into the sides of the casing. Cut and reinstall the polyurethane or your finish of choice (try to match existing trim
base shoe using mitered or beveled returns. in the room).
Trimming a Wall Opening ■ 53

17. Hanging Interior Prehung Doors
P rehung doors come as single units with the door

already hung on hinges attached to a factory-built
frame. To secure the unit during shipping, most prehung
doors are braced or nailed shut with a couple of duplex
nails driven through the jambs and into the door edge.
These nails must be removed before you install the door.
The key to installing doors is to plumb and fasten
the hinge-side jamb first. After that’s in place, you can
position the top and latch-side jambs by checking the
reveal—the gap between the closed door and the jamb.
Standard prehung doors have 41⁄2"-wide jambs Top jamb
and are sized to fit walls with 2 × 4 construction

and 1⁄2" wallboard. If you have thicker walls, you can
special-order doors to match, or you can add jamb
extensions to standard-size doors.

4-ft. level Wood shims
Nail set 8d and 10d
Handsaw casing nails Latch-side jamb
Prehung door unit
Hinge-side jamb
Solid-core interior doors are heavier than hollow-core

doors and may cause the jamb to bow, throwing the unit
out of alignment. To fix this problem, loosely nail the top and
bottom of the hinge-side jamb in place. Use a pry bar on the
bottom of the door to lift the weight off the jamb. While the
weight is lifted, drive two 10d casing nails near the top hinge.
This will relieve the weight of the door and you may continue
installation as with a hollow-core unit.

■ How to Install a Prehung Interior Door
1 2 3
Set the door unit into the framed Starting near the top hinge, insert Anchor the hinge-side jamb with 8d
opening so the jamb edges are flush pairs of shims driven from opposite casing nails driven through the jamb
with the wall surfaces and the unit is directions into the gap between the and shims and into the framing. Drive
centered from side to side. Using a level, framing and jamb, sliding shims in until nails only at the shim locations.
adjust the unit so the hinge-side jamb they are snug. Check the jamb to make
is plumb. sure it remains plumb and does not bow
inward. Install shims near each hinge
and the top and bottom of the jamb.
4 5
Reveal
Insert pairs of shims into the gap between the framing Set all nails below the surface of the wood with a nail
members and the top jamb and latch-side jamb, aligning set, then cut off the shims flush with the wall surface, using
them roughly with the hinge-side shims. With the door closed, a handsaw or utility knife. Hold the saw vertically to prevent
adjust the shims so the reveal is consistent. Drive casing nails damage to the door jamb or wall. See page 34 to install the
through the jambs and shims and into the framing members. door casing.
Hanging Interior Prehung Doors ■ 55

18. Installing Plastic & Miterless Molding
A lthough traditional moldings are made from solid

wood, your options (especially for paint-grade
projects) do not end there. There is a wide variety of
For the most part, solid wood alternatives can
be cut, machined, and installed just as solid wood
products are. Many plastics will not split when
plastic molding available as well as molding made from fastened like wood, making installation easier. Some
wood products such as medium density fiberboard, products may melt when cut slowly with a power saw,
or MDF. These alternative moldings are sold at home so it’s a good idea to make cuts with moderate speed at
centers near the solid wood products. a uniform rate.
One of the biggest advantages of alternative Be cautious when purchasing plastic trim. Each
materials for trim moldings is cost. Intricate detailed material has pros and cons that you should be aware
moldings are considerably less expensive than their of. For example, some plastics such as polystyrene
wood counterparts. Larger, more elaborate trim that are less expensive but less durable than solid wood.
is not available in solid wood (because it would be too They are also available with a prefinished wood grain
expensive), is available in an assortment of styles right appearance, unlike most other plastic products.
off the shelf, or custom ordered. Ceiling medallions Consult a home center specialist to help you choose
and decorative corbels are examples of other plastic the best material for your particular application.
products that would otherwise not be commonly Miterless moldings are another option that
available. Ready-to-assemble mantels and decorative is commonly available with alternative materials.
door caps are also offered. These products add style to Miterless moldings utilize corner “blocks” and
any room immediately and are simple to install. transition moldings to eliminate the need for complex
Another advantage of some plastic material and cuts at corners or between pieces of molding. Plastic
MDF is dimensional stability. With the change of blocks may be used along with plastic molding or
humidity and temperature in the seasons, solid wood in combination with solid wood. After the project
products expand and contract at varying rates. This is painted, the difference in materials will be
causes joints to open up over time and, in some cases, unnoticeable. Miterless moldings are available in
split around a fastener. Some alternative materials are solid wood as well. Plinth blocks and corner posts are
known to expand and contract less than wood. These available for base trim installation. Door and window
materials are more dimensionally stable, which means casings can be trimmed out with rosette corners
that your project will most likely look better with or decorative head treatments that cap the legs of
tighter joints for a longer period of time. the casing.
Miterless moldings are gaining in popularity because they are so simple to install. Instead of making tricky miter cuts or cope
cuts, you simply butt each piece of trim to a corner block or transition block.

Plastic moldings can be cut, machined, and nailed just like Prefabricated MDF moldings are very dimensionally stable
wood moldings. Unlike wood moldings, plastics won’t split compared to solid wood products and sand easily. For best
when nailed near an edge. results, prime and paint the molding prior to installation.
Ornamental corbels don’t have any practical value, but they Rosettes made from wood products or urethane can be
provide strong visual appeal and can also be used to create installed at the corners of window and door openings to
small decorative shelves. eliminate the need for precise miter angles.
Installing Plastic & Miterless Molding ■ 57

19. Hanging French Doors
T raditionally, French doors open onto the patio or

lush garden of a backyard. But you can create
stylish entrances inside your home by bringing French
If the doorway will be in a load-bearing wall, you
will need to make temporary supports, and install an
appropriately sized header. Sizing the header (depth)
doors to formal dining rooms, sitting rooms or dens, is critical: it’s based on the length of the header, the
and master suites. material it’s made from, and the weight of the load it
French doors are made up of two separate doors, must support. For actual requirements, consult your
hinged on opposing jambs of a doorway. The doors local building department.
swing out from the center of the doorway and into or When installing French doors, it is important to
out from a room. Like most doors, French doors are have consistent reveals between the two doors and
typically sold in prehung units, but are also available between the top of the doors and the head jamb. This
separately. They are generally available only in wood, allows the doors to close properly and prevents the
with a variety of designs and styles to choose from. hinges from binding.
Before purchasing a prehung French door unit,
determine the size of doors you will need. If you are
planning to install the doors in an existing doorway,
measure the dimensions of the rough opening, from
the unfinished framing members, then order the unit
to size—the manufacturer or distributor will help you
select the proper unit.
You can also pick the prehung unit first, then
alter an existing opening to accommodate it (as
shown in this project). In this case, build the rough
opening a little larger than the actual dimensions of
the doors to accommodate the jambs. Prehung units
typically require adding 1" to the width and 1⁄2" to
the height.

Tape measure
Circular saw
4-ft. level
Hammer
Handsaw
Drill
Utility knife
Nail set
1
⁄2" plywood
Prehung French door unit
2 × 4 and
2 × 6 lumber
10d & 16d common nails
Wood shims
8d finish nails

■ How to Frame & Install French Doors
1 Old studs
marked for
New
king stud
cripple studs location
Use existing
framing where
possible
Wallboard Wallboard
cut back cut back
for access Old header New for access
and jack stud header
to be removed location
New
jack
stud
location
Shut off power and water to the area. Remove the wall surfaces from both sides of the wall, leaving one stud bay open on
each side of the new rough opening. Also remove or reroute any wiring, plumbing, or ductwork. Lay out the new rough opening,
marking the locations of all new jack and king studs on both the top and bottom plates. Where practical, use existing framing
members. To install a new king stud, cut a stud to size and align with the layout marks, toenail to the bottom plate with 10d
common nails, check for plumb, then toenail to the top plate to secure. Finally, mark both the bottom and top of the new header on
one king stud, then use a level to extend the lines across the intermediate studs to the opposite king stud. If using existing framing,
measure and mark from the existing jack stud.
2 3
New
cripple
studs
Existing
framing
Cut the intermediate studs at the reference marks for the To install a jack stud, cut the stud to fit between the sole
top of the header, using a reciprocating saw. Pry the studs plate and the bottom of the header, as marked on the king
away from the sole plates and remove—the remaining top stud. Align it at the mark against the king stud, then fasten it in
pieces will be used as cripple studs. place with 10d common nails driven every 12".
(continued)
Hanging French Doors ■ 59

4 5
Build the header to size and install, fastening it to the Finish the walls before installing the doors, then set
jack studs, king studs, and cripple studs, using 16d common the prehung door unit into the framed opening so the jamb
nails. Use a handsaw to cut through the bottom plate so it’s edges are flush with the finished wall surfaces and the unit is
flush with the inside faces of the jack studs. Remove the centered from side to side.
cutout portion.
6 7
Using a level, adjust the unit to plumb one of the side jambs. Working down along the jamb, install shims near each
Starting near the top of the door, insert pairs of shims driven hinge and near the floor. Make sure the jamb is plumb, then
from opposite directions into the gap between the framing and anchor it with 8d finish nails driven through the jamb and
the jamb, sliding the shims until they are snug. Check the jamb shims and into the framing. Leave the nail heads partially
to make sure it remains plumb and does not bow inward. protruding so the jamb can be readjusted later if necessary.

8 9 Reveal
Install shims at the other side jamb, aligning them roughly Shim the gap between the header and the head jamb to
with the shims of the first jamb. With the doors closed, adjust create a consistent reveal along the top when the doors are
the shims so the reveal between the doors is even and the closed. Insert pairs of shims every 12". Drive 8d finish nails
tops of the doors are aligned. through the jambs and shims and into the framing members.
10
Drive all the nails fully, then set them below the surface Option: Replace the center mounting screw on each hinge
of the wood with a nail set. Cut off the shims flush with the with a 3" wood screw to provide extra support for door
wall surface, using a handsaw or utility knife. Hold the saw hinges and jambs. These long screws extend through the side
vertically to prevent damage to the door jamb or wall. Install jambs and deep into the framing members. Be careful not
the door casing. to overtighten screws—overtightening will cause the jambs
to bow.
Hanging French Doors ■ 61

20. Installing Wainscoting
with Tongue & Groove Boards
A wainscot, by definition, is a wall treatment covering

the lower portion of a wall. Virtually any material
can be used as wainscoting, but the most common
along the base of the tongue so the groove of the next
board hides the nail heads. Thinner boards may have
to be facenailed to avoid splitting the wood.
by far is wood. In most applications, the wainscot is Wainscoting that is fastened only with nails must
covered along the bottom by a baseboard and along the have blocking or backing to serve as a nailing surface.
top by a cap molding, rail, or shallow shelf. If the framing is exposed, you can install plywood
Wainscots are useful not only for decoration but backing over the wall studs in the area of the wainscot,
also as protective surfaces. Standard wainscot heights then cover the rest of the wall with drywall of the
are between 32" and 36", a range at which the top same thickness (make sure the local building code
cap can serve as a chair rail to protect the wall from permits installing wood directly over wall framing). You
furniture collisions. In hallways, mudrooms, and other can also install 2 × 4 blocks between the studs, at 12"
functional areas, wainscots may run 48" and higher. to 16" intervals, before hanging the drywall.
Wood wainscoting is available in a variety of The project on pages 65 to 67 shows you specific
species and styles. For price and ease of installation, methods for installing tongue-and-groove beadboard,
the best types for do-it-yourselfers are 4 × 8-ft. sheets such as dealing with electrical outlets and trimming
and tongue-and-groove boards, commonly called around windows. Pages 68 and 69 deal with installing
beadboard. Standard materials include paint-grade sheet paneling with traditional moldings applied to the
pine (and other softwoods); hardwood veneers, such as top and bottom edges. Because of its height, and tall
oak and birch; molded polymers; and fiberboard. baseboard, this wainscot is especially suited to mudroom
There are two basic methods for installing or hallway walls that receive some abuse, but it can
wainscoting. Sheets and thinner boards (up to 3⁄8", work well in bathrooms as well. Install hooks for coats or
in most cases) can be attached to drywall with towels along the rail or add a shelf for additional storage.
construction adhesive and nails, or with nails alone.
Thicker boards usually must be nailed, preferably
blind-nailed—the technique of driving angled nails
Pencil Tongue-and-groove
Chalk line boards
Level Sheet paneling
Miter saw or miter box Construction
Jigsaw adhesive
Circular saw 10d, 6d, 4d, and 2d
Caulk gun finish nails
Drill 1 × 6 and 1 × 3 clear
Router with pine lumber
roundover bit Wood glue
Hammer Cove molding
Nail set Baseboard
Compass Receptacle box
Plane extenders
Circuit tester (as required)
Tongue-and-groove wainscoting boards are milled with
smooth faces, or contoured to add additional texture to your
Pry bar Baseboard and cap
walls. For staining, choose a wood species with a pronounced Tape measure rail molding
grain. For painting, poplar is a good choice, since it has few Paint brush Paint or stain
knots and a highly consistent grain.

■ How to Prepare for a Wainscoting Project
1 2
Measure to make a plan drawing of each wall in your Condition the planking by stacking it in the room where it
project. Indicate the locations of fixtures, receptacles, and will be installed. Place spacers between the planks to let air
windows. Use a level to make sure the corners are plumb. If circulate around each board, allowing the wood to adjust to
not, mark plumb lines on the walls to use as reference points. the room’s temperature and humidity. Wait 72 hours before
staining or sealing the front, back, and edges of each plank.
3 4
Remove the baseboard moldings, along with any Mark the walls with level lines to indicate the top of the
receptacle cover plates, vent covers, or other wall fixtures wainscoting. Mark a line 1⁄4" from the floor to provide a small
within the area you plan to cover. Before you begin, turn off the gap for expansion at the floor.
electricity to the circuits in the area.
(continued)
Installing Wainscoting with Tongue & Groove Boards ■ 63

Begin installation at the corners.
5 Install any outside corners (A) first,
working your way toward the inside
corners. In sections of a room that have
no outside corners, start at the inside
corners (B), and work your way toward the
door and window casings. Calculate the
number of boards required for each wall,
using the measurements on the drawing
you created earlier (length of wall ÷
width of one plank). When making this
A A
calculation, remember that the tongues
are removed from the corner boards. If the
total number of boards for a wall includes
a fraction of less than 1⁄2 of a board, plan
to trim the first and last boards to avoid
ending with a board cut to less than half
its original width.
B B
■ How to Install Wainscoting at Outside Corners

1 2 3
Cut a pair of boards to the widths Position the boards at the corner, Position a piece of corner trim and
indicated in the calculations you butting them to create a plumb corner. nail it in place, using 6d finish nails.
developed during the planning process. Facenail the boards in place, then nail Install the remaining boards (opposite,
the joint, using 6d finish nails. Drive steps 5 and 6).
the nails to within 1⁄8" of the face of the
boards, then finish with a nail set.

■ How to Install Wainscoting at Inside Corners
1 2 3
Hold a level against the first board and Cut along the scribed line with a Hold the first board in the corner,
hold the board flush with the corner. If circular saw. leaving a 1⁄4" gap for expansion, and
the wall is out of plumb, trim the board facenail into the center of the board
to compensate: hold the board plumb, at each nailer location, using 6d finish
position a compass at the inside corner nails. Drive the top nails roughly 1⁄2" from
of the wall, and use it to scribe a line the edge so they’ll be hidden from view
down the board. once the cap rail is attached.
4 5 6
Install a second board at the corner Position subsequent boards. Leave Mark and cut the final board to fit.
by butting it against the first one, then a 1⁄16" gap at each joint to allow for If you’re at a door casing, cut the board
facenailing in at least two locations. Nail seasonal expansion. Use a level to to fit flush with the casing (trim off at
to within 1⁄8" of the face of the board, check every third board for plumb. least the tongue). If you’re at an inside
then use a nail set to finish. If the wainscoting is out of plumb, corner, make sure it is plumb. If not,
adjust the fourth board, as necessary, scribe and trim the board to fit.
to compensate.

■ How to Make a Cutout
1 2
Test the receptacle (inset) to make sure the power is off. Press the back of the board that will be installed over
Then, unscrew and remove the receptacle from the box. Coat the receptacle directly against the electrical box, to create a
the edges of the electrical box with bright-colored chalk. cutting outline.
3 4 Tip ▸
When paneling around a

receptacle with thick stock,
you will need to attach a
Lay the board face-down and drill Facenail the wainscoting to the wall, receptacle box extender to
a large pilot hole near one corner of then reattach the receptacle with the the inside of the box, then
the outline. Use a jigsaw fitted with a tabs overlapping the wainscoting so the reconnect the receptacle so
fine-tooth woodcutting blade to make receptacle is flush with the opening. You it is flush with the opening in
the cutout. Be careful not to cut outside may need longer screws. the paneling.
the lines.

■ How to Install Wainscoting Around a Window
On casement windows, install wainscoting up to the casings On double-hung windows, install wainscoting up to the side
on the sides and below the window. Install 1⁄2" cove molding or casings. You can notch the wainscoting to fit around the stool,
other trim to finish the edges. or remove the stool and notch it to fit over the wainscoting.
Remove the apron (below the stool) and reinstall it over
the wainscoting.
■ How to Finish a Wainscoting Project

1 2 3
Cut baseboard moldings to fit over Cut the cap rail to fit as you would Attach the cap rail by nailing 4d finish
the wainscoting and attach them by contoured baseboard. At doors and nails through the flats of the moldings
nailing 6d finishing nails at the stud windows, install the cap rail so its edge at the stud locations. Set the nails with
locations. If you plan to install base is flush with the side casings. a nail set.
shoe, leave a small gap at the floor.

■ How to Install a Wainscot with Sheet Paneling
1 2
Measure up from the floor and snap a chalk line to Check the wall corner with a level to make sure it’s plumb.
represent the top of the paneling. This line will be 3⁄4" lower If it’s not plumb, scribe the first sheet to follow the angle or
than the overall height of the wainscot. Use a pencil to mark contours of the wall. Cut the first sheet to length so its bottom
the stud locations about 1" above the chalk line. Measure the edge will be 1⁄2" above the floor, using a circular saw. Unless
length of the wall to plan the layout of the sheets. The last you’ve scribed the sheet, cut from the back side to prevent
piece should be at least 3" wide, so you may have to trim the splintering on the face. Using a caulk gun, apply construction
first sheet to make the last piece wider. adhesive to the back side.
3 4
Apply the sheet to the wall so its top edge is flush with Install the remaining sheets in the wall section. If you are
the chalk line and its side edge is set into the corner. Press the paneling an adjacent wall, check the paneled wall for plumb,
sheet firmly to bond it to the wall. Drive 6d finish nails at the and trim the first sheet, if necessary. Install the sheet butted
stud locations, spacing them every 16" or so. Use only as many against the end sheet on the paneled wall.
nails as needed to hold the sheet flat and to keep it in place.

5 6
Prepare the 1 × 6 rail material by sanding smooth the Mill the 1 × 3 top cap material, using a router and
front face and bottom edge. If desired, round over the bottom, roundover bit. Work on test pieces to find the desired amount
outside corner slightly with sandpaper. Install the rail with its of roundover, then rout your workpieces on both front corners.
top edge flush with the chalk line, fastening it to each stud with Sand the cap smooth. Option: Create a waterfall edge by
two 10d finish nails driven through pilot holes. Butt together rounding over only the top edge of the cap (top inset), or
rail pieces at inside corners, and miter them at outside chamfer the front edges with a chamfer bit (bottom inset).
corners, following the same techniques used for cutting and
fitting baseboard (see “Installing Base Molding,” page 6).
7 8 Rail
Cove molding
1 × 6 shelf
Bracket
Wainscoting
Shown in
crossection
Install the cap with wood glue and Add cove molding to the joint Variation: Top your wainscot with a
finish nails. Glue along the top edge between the cap and rail, fastening it shelf rather than a cap. Use 1 × 6 or
of the rail and drive a 10d finish nail, to the rail with 2d finish nails. Install wider boards, and mill them as shown in
angled at 45°, through the cap and into the baseboard along the bottom of the step 6. To support the shelf, add wooden
each stud (drill pilot holes for the nails). wainscot. Set all nails with a nail set. brackets fastened to the wall studs.
Miter the rail at corners.

21. Installing Wall Frame Moldings
A dding wall frame moldings is a traditional

decorative technique used to highlight special
features of a room, divide large walls into smaller
sections, or simply to add interest to plain surfaces.
You can paint the molding the same color as the walls
or use a contrasting color. For even greater contrast,
paint or wallcover the areas within the frames.
Decorative wood moldings with curved contours
work best for wall frames. Chair rail, picture rail, base
shoe, cove, quarter-round, and other suitable molding
types are readily available at home centers and
lumberyards in several wood species.
To determine the sizes and locations of the
frames, cut strips of paper to the width of the molding
and tape them to the wall. You may want the frames
to match the dimensions of architectural details in the
room, such as windows or a fireplace.
Install the molding with small finish nails
driven at each wall stud location and at the ends
of the pieces. Use nails long enough to penetrate
the studs by 3⁄4". If there aren’t studs where you
need them, secure the molding with dabs of
construction adhesive.

Level
Framing square
Miter box and backsaw
Drill and bits
Nail set
Paper strips
Tape
Wood finishing materials
Construction adhesive
Paintable latex caulk or wood putty

■ How to Install Wall Frame Moldings
1 2
Cut paper strips to the width of the molding, and tape Cut the molding pieces to length, using a miter box
them to the wall. Use a framing square and level to make sure and a backsaw (or power miter saw) to cut the ends at 45°.
the frame is level and the strips are square to one another. The top and bottom pieces should be the same length, as
Mark the outer corners of the frame with light pencil lines. should the side pieces. Test fit the pieces, and make any
necessary adjustments.
3 4 5
Paint or stain the moldings as Tack the side moldings in place, Drive the nails slightly below the
desired. Position the top molding using the framing square to make surface, using a nail set. Fill the nail
piece on the placement marks and sure they are square to the top piece. holes (and corner joints, if necessary)
tack it in place with two finish nails. If Tack up the bottom piece. Adjust the with wood putty. Touch up the patched
necessary, drill pilot holes for the nails frame, if necessary, so that all of the areas with paint or stain.
to prevent splitting. joints fit tightly, then completely fasten
the pieces.
Installing Wall Frame Moldings ■ 71

22. Installing Wainscot Frames
F rame-and-panel wainscot adds depth, character,

and a sense of Old-World charm to any room.
Classic wainscot was built with grooved or rabbeted
in your shop. Not only does working in the shop allow
you to join the frame parts together (we use pocket
screws driven in the backs of the rails and stiles), it
rails and stiles that captured a floating hardwood panel. generally results in a more professional look.
In the project shown here, the classic appearance is Once the main frames are assembled, they can be
mimicked, but the difficulties of machining precise attached to the wall at stud locations. If you prefer to
parts and commanding craftsman-level joinery are site-build the wainscot piece by piece, you may need
eliminated. Paint-grade materials (mostly MDF) are to replace the wallcovering material with plywood to
used in the project shown; however you can also build create nailing surfaces for the individual pieces.
the project with solid hardwoods and finish-grade We primed all of the wainscot parts prior to
plywood if you prefer a clear-coat finish. installing them and then painted the wainscot
Installing wainscot frames that look like (including the wall sections within the wainscot panel
frame-and-panel wainscot can be done piece by piece, frames) a contrasting color from the wall above the
but it is often easier to assemble the main frame parts wainscot cap.

Profiled
Tools & Materials ▸ 3
⁄ 4" × 2" cap
Laser level Pneumatic finish

Pencil nail gun with 3
⁄ 4" cove
Tape measure compressor
32"
Circular saw Caulking gun
or table saw 3
⁄4"-thick MDF 3
⁄ 4" × 3 ⁄ 2"
1
Straightedge guide sheet stock

Power miter saw 11⁄16" cove molding 20"
Drill with bits 1
⁄2 × 3⁄4" base shoe
Carpenter’s square 9
⁄16 × 11⁄8" cap molding 3
⁄ 4" × 7 1⁄ 4"
Pocket hole jig (10 ft. per panel)
with screws Panel adhesive
Base shoe
Pry bar Paint and primer
Hammer
Panel profile Overall height: 44"
Installing Wainscot Frames ■ 73

■ How to Install Wainscot Frames
1 2
Use a laser level and a pencil to mark the height of the Plot out the wainscot layout on paper and then test the
wainscot installation directly onto all walls in the project area. layout by drawing lines on the wall to make sure you’re happy
Also mark the height of the top rail (3⁄4" below the overall with the design. Try to use a panel width that can be divided
height), since the cap rail will be installed after the rest of the evenly into all project wall lengths. In some cases, you may
wainscot is installed. Mark stud locations, using an electronic need to make the panel widths slightly different from wall to
stud finder. wall, but make sure to maintain a consistent width within each
wall’s run.
3 4
Based on your plan, rip a sheet of MDF into strips to make Cut top rails, base rails, and stiles (but not cap rails) to
all of the wainscot parts except the trim moldings. In our case, length and dry-assemble the parts into ladder frames based on
that included the cap rail (2" wide), the top rail and stiles (31⁄2" your layout. Plan the layouts so wall sections longer than 8 ft.
wide), and the base rail (71⁄4" wide). Note: These are standard are cut with scarf joints in the rails meeting at a stud location.
lumber dimensions. You can use 1 × 4 and 1 × 4 dimensional Dry-assemble the pieces on a flat work surface.
lumber for the rails and stiles (use 1 × 2 or rip stock for the
cap rail).

5 6
Assemble the frames using glue and pocket screws or Mount a 3⁄4" roundover bit in your router or router table
biscuits. Clamp the parts together first and check with a and shape a bullnose profile on the front edge of your cap
carpenter’s square to make sure the stiles are perpendicular to rail stock.
both rails.
7 8
Prime all parts on both sides, including the milled moldings Position the frames against the wall and shim underneath
and uncut cap rail stock. the bottom rails as necessary to bring them flush with the
top rail marks on the wall (3⁄4" below the overall height lines).
Attach the wainscot sections by driving 3" drywall screws,
countersunk, through the top rail and the bottom rail at each
stud location. If you are using scarf joints, be sure to install the
open half first.
(continued)

9 10
Cut the cap rail to length and attach it to the top rail with Install cove molding in the crotch where the cap rail and top
panel adhesive and finish nails. Drive a 3" drywall screw rails meet, using glue and a brad nailer. Then, nail base shoe
through the cap rail and into the wall toenails style at each to conceal any gaps between the bottoms, trials and the floor.
location. Be sure to carefully drill pilot holes and countersink Miter all corners.
holes for each screw. Miter-cut the cap rails at the corners.
11 12
Cut mitered frames to fit around the perimeter of each Mask the wall above the cap rail and then prime and paint
panel frame created by the rails and stiles. Use cap molding. the wainscot frames. Generally, a lighter, contrasting color than
the wall color above is most effective visually.

■ Variation: Natural Wood Finish
1 2
Snap a level line at the top rail height. Because the rails and Install the baseboard and top rail directly over the backer
stiles are the same thickness, the backer panel should run panels, using a finish nailer or by hand-nailing with 6d finish
all the way from the floor to just shy of the top of the top rail. nails. The top edge of the top rail pieces should be slightly
Cut the backers so the grain will run vertically when installed. higher then the backer panels. Use your reference line as a
Attach them to the walls with panel adhesive, notching to fit guide for the top rail, but double-check with a level.
around obstructions such as this window opening.
3 4 5
Attach the cap rail pieces with a finish Cut the stile to fit between the top Add decorative touches, such as the
nailer. The caps should butt flush against rail and the baseboard and install them. corbels we cut for this installation. The
the wall, concealing the top edges of It’s okay to vary the spacing slightly corbels provide some support for the
the backer panels. Also butt the cap rails form wall to wall, but try to keep them cap rail but their function is primarily
against the window and door casings. evenly spaced on each wall. Where the decorative. We glued and nailed one
wainscot meets door or window casing, corbel at each end of each cap rail
butt the edges of the stiles against the piece and above each stile, and then
casing. This can mean notching around added an intermediate one between
window aprons or horns as well as door each pair of stiles.
plinth blocks.

23. Paneling a Ceiling
T ongue-and-groove paneling offers a warm,

attractive finish that’s especially suited to vaulted
ceilings. Pine is the most common material for
tongue-and-groove paneling, but you can choose from
many different wood species and panel styles. Panels
typically are 3⁄8" to 3⁄4" thick and are often attached
directly to ceiling joists or rafters. Some building codes
require the installation of drywall as a fire stop behind
ceiling paneling that’s thinner than 1⁄4".
When purchasing your paneling, get enough material
to cover about 15% more square footage than the actual
ceiling size, to allow for waste. Since the tongue portions
of the panels slip into the grooves of adjacent pieces,
square footage for paneling is based on the reveal—the
exposed face of the panel after it is installed.
Tongue-and-groove boards can be attached with
flooring nails or finish nails. Flooring nails hold better
because they have spiraled shanks, but they tend to have
larger heads than finish nails. Whenever possible, drive
the nails through the base of the tongue and into the
framing. This is called blind-nailing, because the groove of
the succeeding board covers the nail heads. Add facenails
only at joints and in locations where more support is
needed, such as along the first and last boards. To ensure
clean cuts, use a compound miter saw. These saws are
especially useful for ceilings with non-90° angles.
Layout is crucial to the success of a paneling
project. Before you start, determine how many boards
you’ll need, using the reveal measurement. If the final
board will be less than 2" wide, trim the first, or starter,
board by cutting the long edge that abuts the wall. If
the ceiling peak is not parallel to the side (starting)
wall, rip the starter piece at an angle to match the wall.
The leading edge of the starter piece, and every piece
thereafter, must be parallel to the peak.

Chalk line Pneumatic finish nail
Compound gun (optional)
miter saw, Tongue-and-groove
Circular saw paneling
Drill 13⁄4" spiral flooring nails
Nail set Trim molding

■ How to Panel a Ceiling
1 2 Rafters
Reveal
Side wall
To plan your layout, first measure the reveal of the boards. Use the calculation from step 1 to make a control line for
Fit two pieces together and measure from the bottom edge the first row of panels—the starter boards. At both ends of the
of the upper board to the bottom edge of the lower board. ceiling, measure down from the peak an equal distance, and
Calculate the number of boards needed to cover one side of make a mark to represent the top (tongue) edges of the starter
the ceiling by dividing the reveal dimension into the overall boards. Snap a chalk line through the marks.
distance between the top of the wall and the peak.
3 4
Rafters
Joints
1st board 2nd board
If the boards aren’t long enough to span the entire ceiling, Rip the first starter board to width by bevel-cutting the
plan the locations of the joints. Staggering the joints in a bottom (grooved) edge. If the starter row will have joints, cut
three-step pattern will make them less conspicuous. Note the board to length using a 30° bevel cut on the joint end only.
that each joint must fall over the middle of a rafter. For best Two beveled ends joined together form a scarf joint (inset),
appearance, select boards of similar coloring and grain for which is less noticeable than a butt joint. If the board spans the
each row. ceiling, square-cut both ends.
(continued)
Paneling a Ceiling ■ 79
5 6
Position the first starter board so the tongue is on the Cut and install any remaining boards in the starter row
control line. Leave a 1⁄8" gap between the square board end one at a time, making sure the scarf joints fit together tightly.
and the end wall. Fasten the board by nailing through its face At each scarf joint, drive two nails through the face of the top
about 1" from the grooved edge and into the rafters. Then, board, angling the nail to capture the end of the board behind
blind-nail through the base of the tongue into each rafter, it. If necessary, predrill the nail holes to prevent splitting.
angling the nail backward at 45°. Drive the nail heads beneath
the wood surface, using a nail set.
7 8
Cut the first board for the next row, then fit its grooved As you install successive rows, measure down from
edge over the tongue of the board in the starter row. Use a the peak to make sure the rows remain parallel to the peak.
hammer and a scrap piece of paneling to drive downward on Correct any misalignment by adjusting the tongue-and-groove
the tongue edge, seating the grooved edge over the tongue of joint slightly with each row. You can also snap additional
the starter board. Fasten the second row with blind-nails only. control lines to help align the rows.

9 10
Ridge
board
Panels
Rip the boards for the last row to width, beveling the top Install trim molding along walls, at joints around obstacles,
edges so they fit flush against the ridge board. Facenail the and along inside and outside corners, if desired. (Select-grade
boards in place. Install paneling on the other side of the ceiling, 1 × 2 works well as trim along walls.) Where necessary,
then cut and install the final row of panels to form a closed bevel the back edges of the trim or miter-cut the ends to
joint under the ridge board (inset). accommodate the slope of the ceiling.
Tips for Paneling an Attic Ceiling ▸
Panels
Trim
Collar
tie
Panel
material
Use mitered trim to cover joints where panels meet at Wrap collar ties or exposed beams with custom-cut
outside corners. Dormers and other roof elements create panels. Install the paneling on the ceiling first. Then,
opposing ceiling angles that can be difficult to panel rip-cut panels to the desired width. You may want to
around. It may be easier to butt the panels together and include a tongue-and-groove joint as part of the trim
hide the butt joints with custom-cut trim. The trim also detail. Angle-cut the ends of the trim so it fits tight to the
makes a nice transition between angles. ceiling panels.
Paneling a Ceiling ■ 81
24. Installing Ceiling Beams
I nstalling ceiling beams adds depth and visual appeal

to vaulted or high ceilings, or even regular 8-ft.
ceilings that are a bit on the bland side. The beams of
this project are purely decorative, but meant to suggest Pencil 1 × 6 and
the heavy-duty structural members of timber-frame Tape measure 1 × 4 boards
construction. Choose a higher-grade lumber for Circular saw with 2 × 6 framing
a cleaner look, or a lower grade for a more rustic straightedge guide lumber
approach. The species of wood you use to build the Power miter saw Cove moldings
beams may match your existing trimwork, although Drill with bits 3" Wallboard screws
clear-coated hardwood beams will be more expensive Pneumatic finish- Construction
than paint-grade counterparts. nail gun and adhesive
Whenever possible, install ceiling beams with compressor Hollow wall
fasteners driven into blocking or joists. Installation Caulk gun fasteners
of ceiling beams is not recommended without solid Combination square 11⁄4" pneumatic
backing. Standard wallboard construction is not built Painter’s tape finish nails
to hold the weight of this project with hollow wall Chalk line Wood glue
fasteners and construction adhesive alone. Use hollow
wall fasteners only when absolutely necessary.
Joist
2×6
backer board Wallboard
3
⁄ 4" × 3⁄ 4" stop
1 × 6 pine
Cove 1
⁄ 2" reveal
molding 1 × 4 pine
Exposed beams lend a feeling of strength and structure to
A cross-section view of the exposed beams shown being a room, even if they’re really just hollow shells like the beams
installed here reveals that they are hollow inside and actually seen here. Because they can be attached directly to the ceiling
quite simple in structure. You can install beams in any surface, installing decorative beams is a relatively easy trim
direction, but perpendicular to the ceiling joists (as shown carpentry project (as long as you’re comfortable working
above) is the easier orientation to work with. at heights).

■ How to Install Ceiling Beams
1 2
Plan the approximate location of Mark the end of each joist at the point where the ceiling meets the wall. If you
each ceiling beam and locate the ceiling will be installing the beams parallel to the joists, as shown here, measure out from
joists in the desired areas with a stud the center of each joist one-half the width of the backer board you’ll be installing
finder. Mark the joists on the ceiling (23⁄4" for a 2 × 6) and make a reference mark. Make reference marks at the same
with tape. relative spots where the opposite wall meets the ceiling. For installations parallel to
the joists, offsetting the marks results in visible reference lines for the edges of the
backer boards.
Use a chalk line to snap straight reference lines across the ceiling. Have a helper hold the line on the corresponding reference
mark. If you are installing the beams perpendicular to the joists, you may want to avoid snapping a chalk line, since marking chalk
(especially red chalk) is hard to remove and can even telegraph through paint. An option that won’t mark up the ceiling is to string
a grid of unchalked lines across the ceiling to mark the positions of the beams and the locations of the joists. Then, mark an X at
every point where the lines intersect and remove the lines before installing the backer boards for the beams.
(continued)
Installing Ceiling Beams ■ 83

4 Reference line
Measure, cut, and install 2 × 6 backer boards according to your reference Option: In areas where a ceiling joist is
lines. Use construction adhesive to adhere the blocking to the ceiling and drive 3" not available and blocking is difficult to
wallboard screws through the blocking and into the joists. Tip: If you’re working alone, install, use hollow wall fasteners (such
drive a few screws into the backers (preferably at known joist locations) before you as the toggle bolt shown here) to install
position it. Then, you can hold the board in place with one hand and drive the screws the backers. At the end of each backer
with the other hand. A better plan, of course, is to recruit a helper. you can drive 3" screws toenail style
into the top plate of the wall to provide
additional support.
5 6
Set the blade of a combination square to 11⁄4" and mark Use a table saw (best tool) or a circular saw and a
the back face of the 1 × 4 beam sides with a pencil. Slide the straightedge guide to cut 3⁄4" × 3⁄4" strips off of pine for the stop
square along the edge of the piece and hold the tip of the molding. Cut enough stock to apply to each beam side piece.
pencil against the end of the blade. Mark enough stock for
each beam side.

7 8
Align the stop-molding strips with the reference marks on Cut the side pieces to length with a power miter saw, using
the beam sides. Nail and glue the 3⁄4" strips to the back faces of scarf joints to join each piece that is more then 8 ft. long. Butt
the beam sides with 11⁄4" finish nails and wood glue. the ends of the beams into the opposing walls, making sure
the joints are tight. Nail the sides in place using 11⁄2" finish nails
driven every 12" into the blocking.
9 10
Install the bottom pieces of the beams with wood glue and Install cove molding along the seam between the beams
11⁄2" nails driven into the 3⁄4" strips on the inside of the beams. and the ceiling with 11⁄4" finish nails. Drive the nails into the
Make sure the ends butt into the walls snugly, and use scarf sides of the beams. Apply the finish of your choice to the
joints where joining pieces together (offset the scarf joints beams, filling the nail holes appropriately.
from seams in the beam sides).
Installing Ceiling Beams ■ 85

APPENDIX: Cutting & Fitting Joints
C utting and fitting joints is a skill that requires

patience, knowledge, and well-maintained
equipment to achieve effective results. There are a
jointer or a pocket hole jig. These are specialty tools
designed for joining wood.
Cutting and fitting joints during installation
few basic joints that are generally used for most trim can be very frustrating, especially when it involves
applications: butt, inside and outside miter, scarf, and difficult walls that are not plumb and corners that
coped joints. are out of square. Take the time to read through
Although cutting trim joints accurately is the key the proper techniques of using a miter saw, as well
function of a power miter saw, it is not the only tool as the correct method for cutting each individual
necessary for quality joinery. Coped joints require a joint. These techniques are described in detail to
coping saw as well as a set of metal files. For some help you work through the imperfections found
trim applications such as frame and panel wainscoting, in every house and avoid common problems
fitting butt joints is simplified with the use of a biscuit during installation.
Careful cutting is the hallmark of good joinery, be it in making furniture or installing trim moldings. Used correctly, a power miter
saw offers the speed and precision to make your project look like it was done by a pro.

Power Miter Saw Techniques
T here are two main types of power miter saws.

The basic style cuts mitered angles when
material is placed against the fence or beveled angles
when material is placed flat on the work surface.
The second type is called a compound miter saw.
Compound saws allow you to cut a miter and a bevel
simultaneously. The compound angle is extremely
helpful in situations where a corner is out of plumb
and a mitered angle requires a bevel to compensate.
Some compound saws are available with a sliding
feature that allows you to cut through wider stock Waste side
with a smaller blade size. This option raises the cost of
the saw considerably.
Creep cuts. To avoid cutting off too much, start out by making
a cut about 1⁄4" to the waste side of the cutting line, then nibble
at the workpiece with one or more additional cuts until you
have cut up to the cutting line. Wait until the blade stops before
raising the arm on every cut.
■ How to Make ■ How to Cut Wide Stock

Repeat Cuts
1 1 2
Stop block
Blade guard
removed for
clarity
To cut multiple pieces of stock to With a power miter saw: Make a full With a Sliding Compound Miter Saw:
the same length, clamp a stop block downward cut. Release the trigger and Equipped with a saw carriage that
to your support table at the desired let the blade come to a full stop, then slides away from the fence, these saws
distance from the blade. After cutting raise the saw arm. Flip the workpiece have greater cutting capacity than a
the first piece, position each additional over and finish the cut nonsliding saw so they can cut wider
length against the stop block and the stock. They’re also more expensive, but
fence to cut pieces of equal length. you may find it worth renting one.
Appendix ■ 87
Mitering Outside Corners
C utting outside miters is one of the main functions

of a power miter saw. Most saws have positive
stops (called detents) at 45° in each direction, so
standard outside corners are practically cut for you by Combination square or Air compressor
the saw. Keep in mind that your saw must be accurately framing square Air hose
set up to cut joints squarely. Read the owner’s manual Miter saw T-bevel
for setting up your saw as well as for safety precautions. Pencil Molding
Before you begin, check the walls for square with a Tape measure Masking tape
combination square or a framing square. If the corner Pneumatic finish nail gun 1×4
is very close to square, proceed with the square corner
installation. If the corner is badly out of square, follow
the “Out of Square” procedure on the following page.
■ How To Miter Square Outside Corners

1 2
Set the miter saw to 45°. Position the first piece on-edge, Set the miter saw blade to the opposing 45° positive stop.
flat on the miter box table, flush against the fence. Hold the Place the second piece of molding on-edge, flat on the saw
piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the trim with a table, flush against the fence. Fasten the piece tightly in place
slow, steady motion. Release the power button of the saw and with a hold-down or clamp. Cut the molding with a slow,
remove the molding after the blade stops. steady motion.
Stud location
3 Stud location 4
Shim
First piece
Second piece
With the first piece of molding tacked in place, hold the If the corner joint does not fit tightly, shim the work piece
second piece in position and check the fit of the joint. If the away from the fence to make minor adjustments until the joint
joint is tight, nail both pieces at stud locations. fits tightly. Shims should be a uniform thickness. Playing cards
work well.

■ How to Miter Out-of-Square Outside Corners
1 2
Reference line
parallel to wall
Draw a reference line off each wall of the corner using a To find the angle you need to miter your moldings, place
straight 1 × 4. Put masking tape down on the finished floor to a T-bevel with the handle flush against one wall, and adjust the
avoid scuffing it and to see your lines clearly. Trace along each blade so that it intersects the point where your reference lines
wall, connecting the traced lines at a point out from the tip of meet. Lock the blade in place at this angle.
the corner.
3 4
Transfer the angle of the T-bevel to the miter saw by locking Position the molding on-edge, flat on the saw table and
the saw in the down position and adjusting the angle to match flush against the fence. Cut at your cutting mark. Tack the
the angle of the T-bevel. workpiece in place and repeat steps 2 through 4 to measure
and cut the mating piece. Or, you can subtract the angle of the
first cut (for example, 47°) from 90° to find the angle for the
second cut (43° in this case). Using math is faster; taking direct
measurements is more reliable.
Appendix ■ 89
Mitering Inside Corners
A lthough most professionals prefer to cope-cut

inside corners, it is common to see moldings
that are mitered to inside corners. These joints are
more likely to separate over time and to allow gaps to Miter saw
show. For that reason it is not advised to use inside Pencil
corner miters when installing a stain-grade trim Tape measure
product. The gaps will be visible and are very difficult Utility knife
to fill with putty. For paint-grade projects, mitering Pneumatic finish nail gun
inside corners makes more sense because joints can Air compressor
be filled and sanded before the top coats of paint Air hose
are applied. Molding
■ How To Miter Square Inside Corners

1 2 Front face of
trim piece
Set the miter saw to 45° and place the first piece of trim Back-cut the inside edge of the trim piece with a utility knife
on-edge, flat on the miter box table and flush against the fence. so that the top corner will sit flush against the wall corner.
Hold the piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the
trim with a slow, steady motion. Release the power button and
remove the molding after the blade stops.
3 Stud location
4
Stud location
Butt the molding tightly against the wallboard and tack it Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45° angle
into place. and cut the mating piece. Test the fit of the joint, adjusting the
miter angle if necessary. Once the fit is tight, nail both pieces at
stud locations.

Out-of-Plumb Corner Cuts
O ut-of-plumb walls are concave, convex, or simply

not perpendicular to the floor and ceiling at
one or more points. It is a common condition. In
either case, you’ll find that it’s easier to adapt your
trim pieces to the wall than to try and straighten out
the finished wall surface. To do this, the trim pieces
some cases, the condition is caused by the fact that need to be cut to match the out-of-plumb area,
wallboard sheets have tapered edges to make taping to compensate for the taper in the panel. Another
joints easier and the tapers fall at the edge of a work option is to install a running spacer along the
area where trim is installed. In other cases, the bottom edge and cut your molding square, as on the
condition may be caused by wall framing issues. In previous page.
■ How to Make Out-of-Plumb Corner Cuts

Place a T-bevel into the corner and
1 press the blade flush to the wall surface.
Tighten the adjustment knob so the blade
conforms to the angle of the profile of
the wall.
Stud location
Stud location
2 Tip ▸
Bevel gauge
Occasionally, a compound cut is necessary for

cutting miters on out-of-plumb corners. When this
situation arises, set the bevel of the miter saw to
match the out-of-plumb wall (inset photo) and miter
the angle at the appropriate degree. Compound cuts
Transfer the angle of the T-bevel to the miter saw blade by can be difficult to get right the first time, so test the
locking the saw in the down position and adjusting the angle to fit with a piece of scrap material first.
match the angle of the T-bevel. Cut the molding to match the angle.
Appendix ■ 91
Making Coped Cuts
A t first glance, coping moldings appears to be

difficult work that only a professional would
attempt. But, in actuality, coping only requires
patience and the right tools. Whether a molding is
installed flat against the wall, or is sprung to fill an
inside corner junction, as with crown molding, the
concept of coping is the same. It is essentially cutting
back the body of a trim piece along its profile. This
cutting is done at an angle so that only the face of the
molding makes direct contact with the adjoining piece.
For beginners, coping a molding requires a coping
saw, a utility knife, and a set of metal files with a
variety of profiles. The initial cope cut is made with
the coping saw and the joint is fitted with a utility
knife and files. This fitting can be a long process,
especially when working with intricate crown
moldings, but the end results are superior to any
other method.

Miter saw Pneumatic finish
Metal files or rasp set nail gun
Utility knife Air compressor Coping is a tricky skill to learn, but a valuable capability
Pencil Air hose to possess once you’ve got the process down. With very few
Tape measure Molding exceptions, a coped cut can be made only with a hand saw
(usually, a coping saw like the one shown in the photo above).
■ How to Cope-Cut Moldings

Measure, cut, and install the first
1 trim piece. Square-cut the ends, butting
them tightly into the corners, and nail the
workpiece at the marked stud locations.

2 3
Cut the second piece of molding at a 45° angle as if it Starting with the most delicate edge of the molding,
were an inside miter. The cut edge reveals the profile of the cut along the front edge of the molding with a coping saw,
cope cut. following the contour exactly. Bevel the cut at 45° to create a
sharp edge along the contour.
4 Tip ▸
Trim components such as this chair rail can be

complex to cope properly. A variety of rasps or metal
Test-fit the piece (inset photo) and use a metal file to fit the files with different profiles is the key to fitting these
joint precisely. When the joint is properly fitted, nail the coped joints tightly.
piece in place.
Appendix ■ 93
Cutting Mitered Returns
M itered returns are a decorative treatment used

to hide the end grain of wood and provide a
finished appearance when molding stops prior to the
Mitered return
end of a wall. Mitered returns range from tiny pieces

of base shoe up to very large crown moldings. They are
also commonly used when installing a stool and apron
Straight cut
treatment or on decorative friezes above doors.
Bevel returns are another simple return option for Mitered joint
chair rails, baseboards, and base shoe. A bevel return

is simply a cut at the end of the molding that “returns”
the workpiece back to the wall at an angle. The biggest
advantage to using mitered returns rather than bevel
returns is that mitered returns already have a finish
applied. Bevel returns require more touchups.
Cutting mitered returns for small moldings, such as
quarter round, or for thin stock, such as baseboard, can be
tricky when using a power miter saw. The final cut of the
Mitered returns finish molding ends that would otherwise
process leaves the return loose where it can sometimes be
be exposed. Miter the main piece as you would at an outside
thrown from the saw due to the air current of the blade. corner. Cut a miter on the return piece, then cut it to length
Plan on using a piece of trim that is long enough to cut with a straight cut so it butts to the wall. Attach the return
comfortably, or you will find yourself fighting the saw. piece with wood glue.

Combination square Miter box and back saw Pneumatic finish nail gun T-bevel
Utility knife Pencil Air compressor Molding
Power miter saw Tape measure Air hose Wood glue
■ How to Cut Mitered Base

Shoe Returns
3. Cut here
(45°) 1
Waste
piece
1. Start with 2. Cut here 4. Attach Measure and mark the molding to length. Adjust the
square stock (45°) mitered return miter saw blade to 45° and back-miter the molding, cutting
the front edge to the desired overall length of the trim. Nail the
Returns are made from two 45° angle cuts. The scrap back-mitered piece in place using a square to line it up flush
piece is removed and the return piece is glued into place. with the edge of the door casing.

2 3
Mitered return
Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45° Hold the mitered molding against the baseboard at a right
angle and miter-cut the molding using a slow, steady stroke. angle above the installed base shoe. Mark the molding at the
depth of the installed base shoe. Square-cut the molding at the
cutoff mark. Because making this cut with a power saw is very
dangerous, use a miter box and a back saw. The cut-off piece
will be the mitered return piece.
Mitered return
Beveled return
Check the fit of the return against the baseboard. If it Option: Beveled returns are a quick and simple alternative
is too small repeat steps 3 and 4, making the piece slightly to mitered returns. They require finish touchup after the trim
larger. If the return is too large, trim it to fit with a utility knife is installed.
or sandpaper. Once the return fits properly, glue it in place with
wood glue.
Appendix ■ 95
Copyright © 2010 President/CEO: Ken Fund
Creative Publishing international, Inc. VP for Sales & Marketing: Kevin Hamric
400 First Avenue North, Suite 300
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401 Home Improvement Group
1-800-328-0590
www.creativepub.com Publisher: Bryan Trandem
All rights reserved Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
Printed at R. R. Donnelley Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare
Senior Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Brad Springer
Design Manager: James Kegley
NOTICE TO READERS Lead Photographer: Joel Schnell

For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when
following the procedures described in this book. The publisher Production Managers: Linda Halls, Laura Hokkanen
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any
damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse Page Layout Artist: Danielle Smith
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques Here's How: Trimwork
for various applications. In some instances, additional Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decker® is a trademark of
follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products, The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The
projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and
some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information
on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.
HERE’S HOW... TRIMWORK
M ajor home improvements are hard to afford these days, but now you
can dramatically change the look of your home with these incred-
ibly easy, inexpensive, and practical do-it-yourself trimwork projects. Your
home will look and feel entirely new, simply by adding some modern new
trimwork projects or elements, or replacing old, outdated trimwork. One
project alone can save you hundreds of dollars, and completing five or
six can easily improve the market value of your home by thousands of
dollars. All the basics are here, with clear step-by-step instructions and
color photography. This book includes not five or six, but 24 wonderful
projects that will transform your home without costing you an arm and a
leg. Among the projects you’ll find:
• Installing Crown Moldings

• Adding Elegant Wainscot Paneling
• Hanging French Doors
• Updating Windows with New Trim
• Building Ornamental Ceiling Beams
• Building Chair Rail Moldings
CATEGORY: HOME IMPROVEMENT ISBN – 13: 978-1-58923-488-8

ISBN – 10: 1-58923-488-X
$9.99 US
EAN
UPC
£6.99 UK
$12.50 CAN
www.creativepub.com
1-800-328-0590

Trim Work

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Trim Work

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Trim Work

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

HERE ’S HOW ...

5 Installing a Built-up 6 Installing Basic 7 Creating a Built-up 8 Installing Polymer

17 Hanging Interior 18 Installing Plastic & 19 Hanging French 20 Installing Wainscoting

21 Installing Wall Frame 22 Installing Wainscot 23 Paneling 24 Installing Ceiling

B aseboard trim is installed to conceal the joint

Tools & Materials ▸

■ How to Install One-piece Base Molding

6 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Installing One-piece Base Molding ■ 7

B uilt-up base molding is made up of several strips

standard stock moldings. Wavy floors and walls are

Tools & Materials ▸

8 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Baseboard can be built up on the back with spacer

Installing a Built-up Base Molding ■ 9

Attach Attach cap

10 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Adjust the height of your base molding

Install a taller backer block to

Install a wooden heat register for

Installing a Built-up Base Molding ■ 11

P icture rail molding is a specialty molding that

■ How to Install Picture Rail Molding

12 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Installing Picture Rail ■ 13

C hair rail molding typically runs horizontally along

Tools & Materials ▸

■ How to Install Chair Rail

14 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Installing Chair Rail ■ 15

D esigning and installing a built-up chair rail can be

Tools & Materials ▸

■ Choosing a Chair Rail Return

16 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Cut and install the 1 × 4 filler strip so

Cut and install the upper piece of

Installing a Built-up Chair Rail ■ 17

Measure, cut, and install the upper

Install the lower piece of stop molding

18 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Installing a Built-up Chair Rail ■ 19

S imply put, crown molding is angled trim that

20 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Tools & Materials ▸

Mitered joint Coped joint

Installing Basic Crown Molding ■ 21

■ How to Install Basic Crown Molding

22 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Installing Basic Crown Molding ■ 23

How to Make a Scarf Joint Using Crown Molding ▸

24 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

For gaps larger than 1⁄8” between the

Lightly sand the filled nail holes and joint

Installing Basic Crown Molding ■ 25

D esigning your own cornice molding is a creative

26 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Creating a Built-up Cornice ■ 27

28 ■ HERE’S HOW: TRIMWORK

Creating a Built-up Cornice ■ 29

P olymer moldings come in a variety of ornate,