instructables

CNC Plasma Table

by simonrafferty

PLEASE NOTE:

I do NOT supply kits for these. Give the RAR file + BOM to your favorite laser cutting company to quote then .cut /
fold. All parts are cut from 3mm / 1/8" Mild Steel Plate.

ALL THE SOLIDWORKS FILES ARE ON GRABCAD - Please have a look before emailing me asking for the files.

So, you've bought a plasma cutter and you wish you could accurately cut your designs in metal. Tracing lines by
hand gives disappointing results and CNC Plasma tables are way out of your budget. Sound familiar? Well, that's
what I thought anyway!

If you have not bought your plasma cutter yet - there are a few things to bear in mind!

1. The cutter must have 'HF Start' (Cheap cutters sometimes use 'scratch start' where you have to
touch the torch on to the metal to strike the arc. Sadly, these will not work with CNC, least not this
one!)
2. If you have the option (can afford it) buy one with 'Pilot Arc'. If the torch moves over a poorly
conducting area of metal such as rust, paint or a hole, the arc can go out and it will stop cutting. A
Pilot Arc, like the pilot light in your boiler re-lights the arc if it extinguishes. It means you can cut
pretty much anything no matter how grotty the surface looks.
3. If you can, go for a branded cutter. Hypertherm are probably the best - or at least best known. They
will give you the best cut quality and cut thickness for a given quoted power (some of the cheaper
ones are a bit optimistic with the quoted power and cut thickness!). I started with a cheap cutter
(which was actually pretty good) then upgraded to a used Hypertherm 40A machine which was
cheaper than a new 'no-brand' machine.
4. Go for the highest power you can afford. My original 30A cutter claimed to be able to cut 12mm thick
- but the most it could realistically cut was 6mm. My new 40A Hypertherm claims 19mm cut
thickness - and can indeed cut it (not very tidily though). It will cut nicely at 12mm thickness though.

This plasma table has been designed to work with whatever plasma torch
you have whether hand-held or a full blown CNC Torch. The mounting plate has been designed to be adaptable as
possible. You can either attach the torch with zip-ties or U Bolts depending on how often you need to take it off.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 1

This instructable really started on a Land Rover forum, LR4x4.com One of the members (RobertSpark) was
building his own plasma table but it was a bit complex and needed welding together. I thought "I'd like a plasma
table" and thought I could build one too!

I decided to design a table from scratch on Solidworks using Laser Cut parts which anybody could bolt together
with no welding. It would also be scalable so you can build a table pretty much any size you like using the same
laser cut parts. You need to source lengths of steel box section from a Steel Stockholder and everything else you
can buy on eBay / Ali-Express.

All the parts need to be cut in 3mm or 1/8" mild steel A366/1008 Grade (or 304 Grade Stainless). The parts are
suitable for both metric and imperial box section / nuts & bolts if you just pick the closest size.

William Piotrowski has sent me a link to a (very cool!) time-lapse of his build - which shows in intimate detail the
build process as it has progressed so far. I thought it might help everyone else!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56fDQUlhrUA&feature=youtu.be

1. Finished plasma cutter on a folding frame 1. My original cheap 30A Plasma - not bad for the
cost.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7ui46wcZ6I

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEbXxULZh1s

Step 1: Bill of Materials

1. 1 x 24v 400W 16A Power Supply

2. 1 x 57BYGH56-401A NEMA 23 Stepper Motor
3. 2 x NEMA 23 Stepper Motor = 3.1Nm
CNC Plasma Table: Page 2
 4. 3 x TB6600HG Stepper Motor Driver 5A
5. 1 x PC Breakout Board (See Note 1)
6. 1 x Motor Shaft Coupler 6x12mm Flexible Coupling
7. 6 x 20 Tooth 5M Synchronous belt pulley 21mm width, 8mm centre hole
8. M6 or 1/4" Studding (See Note 2)
9. 300mm x M12 or 1/2" Studding
10. 50mm x 50mm x 1.5wall (2" x 2" x 1/16"wall) Box section Steel (See Note 2)
11. 20x20x3mm (3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8") Steel Angle (See Note 2)
12. 16 x 6x30x9mm 0630VV 6mm V Groove Steel Guide Pulley
13. 8mm Round Section Silver Steel bar (See Note 2)
14. 2 x 8mm shaft collars
15. 8 x IGUS MCM-08-03 Bushing (See Note 3)
16. 15mm x 5mm pitch Synchronous timing belt (See Note 2)
17. 4 x 6262RS 19x6x6mm bearings
18. 50 x M6 x 20mm Bolts
19. 25 x M6 x 25mm Bolts
20. 50 x M6 Nyloc Nuts
21. 30 x M6 Plain Nuts
22. 40 x M4 x 20 Bolts
23. 40 x M4 Nyloc Nuts
24. 1 x M12 Nut (or 1/2" to suit Studding)
25. 1 x Microswitch

PC Components:

1. Windows XP PC with a Parallel Port (Something like a Dell GX-280)

2. Video Monitor to suit above
3. Bluetooth combined Keyboard & Track Pad (Bluetooth means you can use it as a remote control)
4. Mach 3 Software (Free Version Available)
5. SheetCAM Software (Free Version Available)

Optional:

1. Torch Height Control (See Text)

Note 1:
The breakout board isolates your PC from the stepper motor drivers, protecti ng it from voltage spikes et c. Most of
them plug i n to a PC Parallel Port. These are the simplest to set up. www.CNC4You.com supply some decen t
boards and include easy wiring diagrams t o make it easy! Have a look at the KK01 board as an example. If you
are mo re confident with techy stuf f, a reasonable board can be h ad from eBay for less cost but less good
instructions. If you have no Parallel port, there are severa l USB Motion controllers available includ ing the UC100
from the above. The UC100 still needs a breakout board (it just c onverts USB to Parallel. There are a few more
USB Motion controllers on eBay from China. The one I bought works fine, bu t took a LOT of experimentation to
set up and get working due to the terrible an d misleading instruct ions. Never again! USB boards tend to be
sensitive to electrical noise. I had to use clip on ferrite chokes on all the power and USB cabling to m ake it stable.
Most boards have one or two relays. Use one of these to switch on the ar c on the plasma cutter. Y ou'll have to
figure this ou t for yourself. I just cut the lead from the swit ch on the torch to the plasma and inserted a c onnector
block then ran wires to the relay.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 3

Note 2:
Decide on the X, Y & Z dimensions in mm. Make these a little bigger than the size of sheet you want to cut. You
can work out the lengths of steel to cut below:

Quantity Description Length

2 X Axis Bars X + 200 mm

2 Y Axis Bars Y mm

1 Z Axis Bar Z + 100mm

1 Bridge Bar Y + 182 mm

2 Bed Support Angle Y mm

6 (or more) Bed Runner Angle X + 245 mm

2 X Axis M6 Studding X + 220 mm

2 Y Axis M6 Studding Y + 20 mm

1 Bridge M6 Studding Y + 202 mm

3 Z Carriage M6 Studding 100 mm

2 X Axis Belt 2 x X + 450mm

1 Y Axis Belt 2 x Y + 400 mm

1 X Axis 8mm drive shaft Y + 300 mm

1 Z Axis Studding M10 Z + 100mm

1 M10 plain Nut

2 Misc 8mm Axle Shafts 100 mm

Totals

Description Length

50x50x1.5 Box Section 2 x X + 3 x Y+ Z + 682mm

M6 Studding 2 x X + 3 x Y + 982mm

Synchronous timing belt 4 x X + 2 x Y + 1300mm

Bed 20x20x3mm Angle (Number of runners) x (X + 245) + 2 x Y

8mm Round Section Bright Bar Y + 500mm

CNC Plasma Table: Page 4
Note 3.

I have used IGUS MCM-06-03 Clip Bearings which on the surface seem very expensive for what they are.
However they work very well and have a very long life in dusty & abrasive environments! As an alternative, the
IGUS site carries 3D Models (including STL) for all their parts - so you could 3D Print your own! IGUS even sell
their special Polymer as 3D Printer Filament - so you can print the genuine part. Other suppliers also sell plastic or
Nylon clip bearings - and these might be worth a go too, however, I think IGUS represent good value.

Laser Cut Parts:

I have attached a rar (compressed files) containing all the DXF's and PDF drawings of the laser cut parts. You
should be able to send these to any laser cutting company who will be able to cut and fold as per the PDF
drawings.

Bill of Materials for Laser Cut Parts:

Quantity Part Name

1 X Motor Mount
3 Pulley Support
1 Side Plate
6 Belt Clamp
1 Y Motor Bracket
1 Side Plate Mirror
1 Y Pulley Bracket
2 End Plate Motor
2 End Plate Pulley
4 End Plate Keeper
1 Carriage
1 Z Motor Mount
1 Z Top Cap
2 Z Follower
1 Z Nut Keeper
1 Torch Lift Slide
1 Z Axis Plate

The RAR file below is a Zipped / Compressed archive of ALL the drawings needed to cut / fold the parts. You will
need a tool such as 7Zip to decompress / view the files. Give the files plus the BOM (Quantities of each of the
laser cut parts) above to your favorite laser cutting company. They will be able to quote and make the parts.

Please note again, I do not sell kits - I just made this for fun and thought I'd share it with you.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 5

 1 1

1. X-Motor Plate 1. Motor End Plate x 2

1. Pulley Support x 3 1. Z-Nut Keeper Plate x 1

CNC Plasma Table: Page 6

 1 1

1. Z Top Cap x 1 1. Z-Follower x 2

1 1

1. Z-Axis Plate x 1 1. Side Plate Mirror x 1

CNC Plasma Table: Page 7

 1 1

1. Y Pulley Bracket x 1 1. Carriage x 1

1
1

1. Side Plate x 1 1. Belt Clamp x 6

CNC Plasma Table: Page 8

 1
1

1. Z-Motor Mount 1. Torch Lift Slide

1 1

1. Y-Motor Bracket x 1 1. End Plate Keeper x 4

Download
http://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F43/N0S2/I916E9UE/F43N0S2I916E9UE.rar
…

CNC Plasma Table: Page 9

Step 2: Construction 1. the Z Carriage.

For each of the three lower rollers, pass

a bolt through the laser cut part, secure in place with a nut then secure a V roller pulley to each with a second nut.
The first nut acts as a spacer and is important.

Step 3: Construction 2. Z Motor

Bolt the smaller of the motors to the plate

using 4 M4 nuts & bolts. Connect a length of M 12 Studding to the motor using the flexible coupling.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 10

Step 4: Construction 3. Z Follower

The two Z Follower plates are identical

and are fitted face to face as shown. There is a small plate with a hexagon cut out. An M12 Nut is held in place by
this plate and sandwiched between the Z Follower plates.

Step 5: Construction 3. Z Follower Continued

Secure the parts from Construction 1 & 2 together.

Cut a piece of M6 studding 20mm longer than your Z post. One end of this passes through the Z Carriage, up the
middle of the Z post and through the s quare Z Cap plate. Link the two Z follower plates with a short (100mm) l
ength of M6 Studding + Nuts as above.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 11

Step 6: Construction 3. Z-Follower Continued 2

Attach 4 more V Roller pulleys to the folded edges of Bolt the micro-switch to the Torch Lift plate using 2 x
the Z Follower plates. M3 x 40 Screws. You may need to add a couple of
nuts / washers between the micro-switch and the
Slacken the 100mm length of studding to allow you to plate such that when installed, the button on the
sandwich the Torch Lift Slide plate between the V switch touches the Z-Follower assembly.
Rollers. Tighten the studding so this plate can move
freely up & down, but does not rattle.

1. Micro-Switch touches Z-Follower when torch

lift slide is in lowest position.
2. You may need to add a second nut to each of
the 4 bolts poking
through the Torch Lift
Slide plate depending
on the thickness of
your pulleys + bolt
heads.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 12

Step 7: Construction 3. Z-Follower Continued 3

You can now loosely attach the Torch Adaptor Plate down the Z post but with as little rotational play as
to the Torch Lift Slide plate. You will need to adjust possible. Once the kit is fully assembled, you can re-
the height of this later. Adjust the position of the adjust these to maximise the rigidity of the assembly.
pulley which follows the right hand edge of the Z post That's the Z Axis complete.
in the slots to allow the Z axis to move freely up &

CNC Plasma Table: Page 13

Step 8: Construction 4. X-Axis

Find the part pictured above. not secure with a nut yet)

There are two similar looking parts (just to confuse Bolt one of the bigger motors to the plate above then
you). bolt that to one of the corner brackets as shown.

Use the one which has 5 holes cut in the flange on There are 2 pairs of corner brackets, two being the
the Right as shown. The other one has only 4 holes - mirror image of the other two. Bolt one of the four
we will need this one later! diamond plates (as shown) to the corner bracket.
Note the alignment of the L shaped cut-out bottom
Pass one of your two X-Axis lengths of right in the picture.
studding through the middle hole and secure with a
plain nut. Pass two M6 x 25 bolts through as well (do

CNC Plasma Table: Page 14

Step 9: Construction 4. X-Axis Continued

Pass the X Axis studding through one of your X Axis corner brackets are held securely in place.
Tubes, through another corner bracket and through
the U shaped bracket as shown above. Bolt another Diamond plate to the end of the corner
bracket (note the alignment of the L shaped cut-out.)
The U shape bracket needs to be secured to the
corner bracket at this stage too. Insert two of the IGUS plastic bushes in the 9mm
holes in the U shaped bracket
Lay this assembly on a flat surface (Table top?) and
tighten the nuts tensioning the studding until the

CNC Plasma Table: Page 15

Step 10: Construction 4. X-Axis Continued 2

Assemble the other X Axis Bar as shown. In place of the motor at one end, it has another of the U shaped
brackets.

This, including the Diamond Plates should form a mirror image of the first X Axis bar as shown.

Take a short length (100mm) of the 8mm ground bar and pass through the Plastic Bushes in the U shaped bracket
and attach a belt pulley and shaft collar.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 16

Step 11: Construction 5. Y Axis

Pass the longer length of the 8mm ground bar both at the same time is difficult. So long as you do
through the IGUS bushes and attach a belt pulley not tension the studding too much, there is enough
then insert the Y Axis M6 Studding as shown. flexibility to engage the studding, box section and
angle at the other end. Lay this assembly on a flat
Thread the studding and 8mm bar through the Y Axis surface and tension the studding to hold rigidly.
tube. Slot the end of the Y Axis Angle into the L
shaped cut-out in the diamond plate. This is a bit If you are building a big table, you may need to use
fiddly - you may need the help of an assistant! M8 studding to tension the structure as it will require
more force to hold it rigidly.
Just assemble one end at a time. Trying to line up

CNC Plasma Table: Page 17

Step 12: Construction 6. Y Axis Bridge

Assemble the Y motor bracket, Y Axis Studding and Pass the studding through resting both Y carriages on
bolt as shown then attach the second big motor and the X Axis tubes. Depending on your cut accuracy of
bolt in place. the tubes, you may need to use a washer or two
behind the V pulleys on the Y Carriages such that
Bolt this to the Y Carriage bracket. they sit squarely on top of the X Axis tubes when the
studding is tensioned. A little trial & error is called for!
Attach three of the V Groove pulleys spaced away
from the Y carriage bracket with one nut. Tighten the When you are happy it is sitting correctly, fully tension
top two but leave the bottom (slotted) pulley loose. the st udding then adjust the bottom slide pulleys on
the Y Carriages such that the bridge rolls smoothly
Thread the studding through the Y Bridge tube as along the length of the machine. If it tightens at one
before. Assemble the other Y Carriage bracket (mirror end, one of your Y axis tubes is longer than the other!
image of the other side) using a belt pulley, 100mm I'm afraid you will have to disassemble and adjust the
shaft and shaft collar sleeved by IGUS Bushes. lengths.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 18

Step 13: Construction 6. Y Axis Bridge Continued

Sit your Z Axis assembly on top of the Bridge bar and pass under the other clamp bar. Pull the belt tight
then adjust the V rollers such that it is secure and using a pair of pliars (some help may be required!)
rolls smoothly. This wants to be fairly tightly adjusted. and tighten the other clamp.
Take a length of the timing belt and secure one end to
the clamp on a Y Carriage bracket. Pass through the You can add the bed / material supports as shown.
hole in the corner bracket, around the belt pulley etc

CNC Plasma Table: Page 19

CNC Plasma Table: Page 20
Step 14: Construction 7. Belts

Move the Y carriage to one end of the machine so the Once all three belts are tensioned, adjust the slotted
Y carriages are hard against the corner brackets t hen pulleys again to make sure everything is tight, but
thread the next piece of timing belt through the other moves smoothly.If you still find you cannot tension
side. You will need to adjust the belt passing t hrough the belts sufficiently, find some torsion springs (like
each clamp individually such that the bridge is square the ones in clothes-pegs). Put one or two on each
and the belt is tensioned. belt. These will maintain the tension in the belts as
the machine settles in use. In most cases they should
Repeat this process for the Y axis. be unnecessary.

Step 15: Construction 8. Torch Cable Support.

Using the remainder of the 8mm Ground bar, form one end in to a 'shepherds crook' shape. I bent mine round a
lamp post!

You can hook the cable to the plasma torch over the hook allowing the cable to reach the cutting head as it moves.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 21

CNC Plasma Table: Page 22
Step 16: Construction 9. Wiring It Up

There is a great deal of information on the wiring on through 'Cable Chains'. Although I've linked to chains
line. Rather than repeat it here, there the a great set on eBay, which are mostly low cost Chinese versions
of pages which describes the same components I've - they have not proven very robust. I wish I had used
used here: IGUS chains - which we use at work. These are much
better quality and very robust - though more
http://www.hobbycncaustralia.com.au/Instructions/iI7 expensive. The choice is yours!
0JK02ToDCConv.htm
Above you can see a picture of the breakout board.
It contains pictorial diagrams of how to wire each of This is how I've wired it up (which may differ a little
the individual components to the breakout board and from the HobbyCNCAustralia site linked above). My
that to your PC's parallel port. wiring is specific to plasma cutting.

The stepper motors have 4 wires - thus you need 4 The wiring of the Stepper Drivers is exactly the same.
(or more) core cable to connect them to the stepper However, Terminal blocks 1,2,3,4,5,6,& 7 are as
drivers. I used 7 core Trailer Cable because it's low follows. L & R refer to the left & right hand screw as
cost, easily available and will carry sufficient current pictured on the picture.
(5 Amps). The 3 spare cores were useful to connect
the Z-Axis micro-switch without adding a separate 1. +5v Out L is 0v, R is +5v You can use this to
cable. power things like the laser cross-hair you may have
noticed on some of my photos (very low cost on
You need the breakout board to switch your plasma eBay!)
cutter on & off - the equivalent of pressing the trigger
on the torch. Fortunately, the breakout board includes 2. No connection
a relay (normally to switch the spindle on a lathe or
mill on & off). I dismantled the plug on the end of my 3. L & R connect to the normally open connections on
plasma torch which connects the trigger to the the torch lift microswitch
machine and attached a pair of wires in parallel to
those that connect to the switch contacts. These 4. To the Proma Torch Height Control. L to 'COM'
connect to the NO (normally open) and COM terminal, R to 'Torch Up'
(common) relay connections such that when the relay
is switched on, the plasma tries to start cutting. 5. To the Proma Torch Height Control. L to 'COM'
terminal, R to 'Torch Down'
Some plasma cutters can generate electrical noise on
these wires - sometimes enough to crash the PC! If 6. To the Proma Torch Height Control. L to 'COM'
you experience problems, buy some ferrite cores and terminal, R to 'Arc OK'
snap one (or more) over the wires to the plasma
cutter. Adding a few more on the mains connection to 7. Connect this to the Plasma Cutter trigger. 7
your power supply, the 24v power connections from connects to the relay contacts on the breakout board
the power supply and the Parallel lead to your PC and you want it so when the relay is energised, the
may help too. plasma strikes the arc to start cutting.

To protect and route the cables, I passed the cables

CNC Plasma Table: Page 23

 1

1. Cable Chain 1. I built the PC and control components in to a waterproof 'Pelican' Case
to protect it from dust while not in use. You can see on the left, I've used 4
x 4 Pin XLR connectors to attach the motors and Z Slide switch to the PC.
This makes the whole thing ish-portable and easy to store when not in
use.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 24

Step 17: Software

First you need to design the things you want to cut. realistic hobby use. Solidworks has a suite of tools for
There are meny options for this ranging from drawing working with sheet metal and allows you to build, test
the part on paper to full blown Computer Aided & analyse assemblies of parts so you can build and
Design. run your whole project before cutting any metal. This
plasma table is a good example of just that!
Starting with an image, scanning it and using
software such as Inkscape which can turn a drawing At the other end of the spectrum there is Google
or even a photograph into a vector format called a Sketchup - which is free and if you want to work in 2D
DXF file. The software can be downloaded for free only, DraftSight from the same company as
and although I've only used it once or twice, it works Solidworks and is totally free! It's actually quite
really well! impressive.

This would be ideal if, for example you want to cut Whatever software you've used, save your design as
animal profiles for use on weather vanes or other a DXF. Next you need to turn the design into
'decorative' things. This makes the plasma cutter something a CNC machine can understand. For
easily used for artistic purposes without the Plasma Cutting, the best option is known as
constraints of traditional CAD software. SheetCAM. There are plenty of good tutorial videos
and information on line. SheetCAM lets you import
You can use a drawing package such as CorelDraw multiple parts and arrange (Nest) them so they fit
which can export in DXF format - this is a half way efficiently in the smallest sheet of metal possible.
house between drawing and CAD. Good for Once you are happy, you 'postprocess' (convert the
geometric shapes where you are not worried about layout into GCode which your CNC will understand).
precision - House Signs for example. If you are going to use Mach3 to control your table,
choose the Mach3 PostProcessor.
There are many CAD systems available. My personal
favorite is Solidworks - but it is too expensive for

1
1

1. Nested layout of parts in SheetCAM 1. The same nested parts as cut

CNC Plasma Table: Page 25

 1

1. And after a bit of sanding

Step 18: Mach3 CNC Control Software

Mach3 is the interface between your design & the With my settings, you can use the PC cursor keys to
hardware which will make it - it deserves it's own move the X & Y axis of the plasma table. A & Z move
step! the Z (torch height) up & down.

There is plenty of info on line on how to use Mach3. When you want to calibrate the Torch Height, on the
Here I've included the configuration file I've used plus main screen, click 'Ref All Home' next to the X,Y & Z
the screen set. The config file will make it talk to the position readouts. The torch will slowly move down
THC, Plasma & Motors if you've wired them up the until the torch lift microswitch closes, then it will move
same as mine. At the very least it will be a good place up until the switch just closes. The Z readout will zero
to start! itself. On mine, this is the equivalent of the torch
being 3mm too low. In the Z DRO (readout), click in
Save Plasma.set & Plasma.xml in your C:\Mach3\ the box then enter -3 and hit return. When you move
folder. When you start Mach3, the start screen should Z up, 0.000 will be the torch just touching the metal
now show 'Plasma' as one of the options - select this. sheet. Yours may be different to -3mm - you need to
experiment a bit!
One top tip! If you change any of the configuration
settings (Config Menu), click SAVE at the bottom of If you want to use Torch Height control, click the THC
the menu otherwise when you re-start Mach3, it will button (even if it's fitted, you can switch it on & off as
revert to the old settings. This has made me swear required). Try clicking the Torch On button to check
once or twice! your plasma cutter strikes the Arc.

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CNC Plasma Table: Page 27
CNC Plasma Table: Page 28
 Download
http://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FIC/WS89/I92LV3D5/FICWS89I92LV3D5.mp4
…

Download
http://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FNB/8I72/I93F9Y48/FNB8I72I93F9Y48.set
…

Download
http://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FV4/OCG7/I93F9Y5B/FV4OCG7I93F9Y5B.xml
…

CNC Plasma Table: Page 29

Step 19: Cutting

Once you've set up your software, I would The manufacturer may also give a recommendation
recommend attaching a marker pen to the cutter as on cutting speed at different power levels (Current). I
the first test. Draw a simple shape and see how well it would only use this as a guide though. You will
draws the shape. You should be able to measure it to probably have to experiment a bit to find an ideal
make sure it's dimensionally accurate. If not, go back combination of speed & current for a given thickness
to Motor Tuning in Mach3 - you've probably of metal. I've found that 1500mm/min, 25A works well
calculated your steps per mm/inch incorrectly (it for 3mm mild steel.
happens to the best of us!).
What you aim to achieve is a cut with the minimum
The maker of your plasma cutter should be able to tell 'dross' (solidified molten metal) stuck to the back.
you the ideal torch height for piercing and cutting. The
instructions for my old plasma said 1.5mm for pierce It took me a day of experimentation to achieve results
and 1mm to cut - but I found it worked better at 2mm I was happy with - but over the last few months as I
and 0.5mm. Thus - it's worth experimenting! have tweaked the settings, the results have got better
& better.
Hypertherm recommend 3mm pierce & 0.8mm cut
with a pierce delay (how long it takes to melt a hole Top Tip! Keep a note of the settings that work for
through the steel) of 0.5 sec - which works perfectly different materials & thicknesses!
for me!
You will never achieve the same cut quality as a
Enter these settings in SheetCAM. Also enter a Laser Cut part - but it is plenty good enough for most
cutting speed - say 1500mm/min. You can easily purposes. You can always sand the edges if you
adjust this in Mach 3 to fine tune the cut. need them to be smooth.

1
1

1. My very first test - drawing with a Sharpie Pen! 1. 'ripples' on cut edge

CNC Plasma Table: Page 30

 1

1. An example of some of the parts I've cut. This is one leg segment from a
Theo Jansen inspired walking machine.

Step 20: Torch Height Control

To achieve the best quality cut, the height of the torch above the sheet needs to be carefully controlled. If the sheet
is flat, setting the Z Height using the Microswitch is OK. However, if the sheet is not completely flat (particularly
true for thicker sheet), something more advanced can help.

I bought (actually, my wife bought it for me for Christmas - thanks Sarah!) an electronic Torch Height Control made
by Proma

However - before you rush out & buy one, there are a couple of things I need to add.

1. This THC (others may be different) does not seem to work well on thin sheet (<=3mm). However,
3mm sheet seems to be flat enough not to need it on the whole.
2. It does not work at all with my Hypertherm! The reason is that the THC looks at the voltage being
sent to the torch and assumes that if the torch is switched off, this will be zero volts. However, when
the Hypertherm is not cutting (no Arc) the torch sits at 45V. The THC interprets this as the arc has
been struck and starts trying to adjust the height immediately.

The way a THC works is by reading the arc voltage. If it's lower than a threshold (about 120V) it
raises the torch height and if it's higher, it lowers the torch. Because it's at 45V, well below the
threshold, it starts raising the torch before the arc has lit - and by the time the plasma tries to light
the arc, the torch is too far above the sheet and it never succeeds!

Apparently the next version of the THC will allow you to adjust the voltage it considers as the arc
being lit - check with them before you buy!

Have a look at the linked video for details of how to attach & use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=560knsCBqNk

CNC Plasma Table: Page 31

Step 21: Conclusion

My plasma table has been revolutionary for me! It has - but this can!"
been almost as useful as my 3D Printer - I guess it's
a Metal 2D Printer in effect.
THE WORK IS PROVIDED UNDER THE TERMS
I have a mill, lathe, band saw and most of the usual OF THIS
metalworking gear but the plasma has added a great CREATIVE COMMONS PUBLIC LICENSE ("CCPL"
deal to my capability. It's very fast (compared to say a OR "LICENSE"). THE WORK IS PROTECTED BY
Band Saw), easy and accurate. The biggest single COPYRIGHT AND/OR OTHER APPLICABLE LAW.
change is that I've been able to add 'aesthetic ANY USE OF THE WORK OTHER THAN AS
embellishments' to metal parts - more interesting AUTHORIZED UNDER THIS LICENSE OR
shapes and lightening holes that are just not worth COPYRIGHT LAW IS PROHIBITED.
the time or effort cutting them manually.
BY EXERCISING ANY RIGHTS TO THE WORK
I had no idea how much I would end up using it! PROVIDED HERE, YOU ACCEPT AND AGREE TO
BE BOUND BY THE TERMS OF THIS LICENSE.
I took the Plasma Table to the Newcastle UK Maker TO THE EXTENT THIS LICENSE MAY BE
Faire in April 2015 and was overwhelmed with the CONSIDERED TO BE A CONTRACT, THE
positive comments from visitors (many thanks if you LICENSOR GRANTS YOU THE RIGHTS
were one of them!) Many of them were members of CONTAINED HERE IN CONSIDERATION OF
Maker / Hack Spaces who said the first question YOUR ACCEPTANCE OF SUCH TERMS AND
members ask about the small laser cutters they have CONDITIONS.
is "can it cut metal" - the answer being "No". They
were excited at the prospect of being able to say "No

Anyone else in the usa want a set of laser cut parts?

I have contacted the company that built the parts in the uk, they are willing to ship to the us. If we
get a few guys to order all at once the price will be much better. Please let me know if you are
interested. Please only serious reply, I do not have time for monkey business.

That's great! If anyone contacts me, I'll point them at you.

Si

would like to purchase a set of sheet metal parts.please show me the way.

Why don't you send Randyg660 a private message?

Si

Where did you get your belts?

CNC Plasma Table: Page 32

I got my belts from the same alibaba seller that si has on the instructions. But I had to contact the
seller directly. He is very cool. I actually order the 20mm wide belt, not the 15mm that si used. If
you look close in the picture, you can see the 6mm of slop between the belt and the edge of the
pully. Not good for me....lol. if you give . Your email address, I can send you a copy of all the
invoices for parts we have bought.

Well done! I contacted them - but had no reply! Ask the seller to list the 20mm belt and I at least
will buy some! I want to double the length of my table so need longer belts anyway. I wasn't totally
happy with the gap either - but need for a table was greater than my desire to have the right width
belts. 15 or 20mm they work OK however.

si. This is turning out to be a great project. I made some changes to the brackets. I raised the
gantry 6 inches for the addition of a fourth axis. Rotary tube and pipe positioner. I also bought a 4
axis break out board, with now 4 motor drivers. I saw several machines like this at a trade show
and just had to have it. So now that ssc has cut my parts, they have the modified drawings on file.
So if you want this for your table, they have it ready to cut for you. There are some great videos on
you tube of the rotary cutter set up. Sorry but I can't send the link on this email system. Sheetcam
also has the software for the tube cutting. Thanks for sharing this great build.

Randy, did your modified brackets etc work out? I'd be interested in a look at the files.

Could you share the invoice with me, I'm interested in the wider belt also as the slop is not ideal.
Thanks

Are you willing to share the invoices with me?

[email protected]
Thanks

Si. I will forward you the new files as soon as ssc sends them to me. I think you will like my
chnges.

Could he email me the cost. I live in canada

[email protected]

I am interested in a set. Can you email me a price? [email protected]

What will a set cost me

Are you still looking for people to go in on a set of laser cut parts. I'm interested. I plan to order
from Big Blue Saw if your offer has expired.

CNC Plasma Table: Page 33

 Did you get enough interest? I'm interested. email me: [email protected]

New set of brackets are on the way. Did you still need them?

Thank you for offering, but I've already sourced my own set.

Still have some kits left?

Hey randyg,
I'm very interested. Is that $425 US? Im in Aus. How much did the whole set up cost to build?
Thanks, will

Steelewilly. Yes that price is in US. Shipping will be quite expensive to Aus. I can get a quote for
you if you need. The table is costing me just over $1000.00 US to build. This is not including the
extra stuff like 4th axis and material for the stand and water table. Please contact me directly at
[email protected] thanks

send me the price also very interested

Brackets $425.00 a set

$425.00 a set. This includes shipping from me to you. Let me know if this works for you.

I am interested but would need to understand what all parts this covers.

Please call me at 3032491477, or send me a pm. The $425.00 is for all the laser cut parts required
to build one table. Plus the shipping from me to you.

I want in.. my local shop is $1,004.65 USD.. NFG

Ok. Please call me. This email system is kinda weird. 3032491477

Yeah I'd be interested, shoot me a message with pricing info if you don't mind. Thanks.

$425 includes shipping from me to you. Let me know if this works.

Sorry, but still waiting for the price quote from them. Let you know a price as soon as I hear back
from them again. I will send another email tonight..
CNC Plasma Table: Page 34
 Ok, that's fine. Whenever you get info just let me know. I'm in no rush.

just thought I'd give an update of how its coming along.

Firstly its an absolute credit to you Simon, these instructions are so easy to follow and at no point
(so far) have I been scratching my head trying to figure out whats going on. such a well thought out
machine with great instructions.
So far I've managed to get 90% of the frame together. I'm just waiting on the shipment of the v
groove bearing from china. It was a little bit fiddly with the thread and rods but wasn't too difficult.
I've also got all the electronics mounted in an old computer case I'm using.
they are all wired up and ready to go. even got the plasma to strike an arc using the relay off the
BOB. first time firing it was a bit scary, but it all worked out fine.
So now I'm just twiddling my thumbs waiting on these bearings.
Cant wait to get this thing going, I've got so many things I want to make.
I run a small metal fabrication shop, so this machine is going to change the way I design and make
so many things.
Thanks again Simon.
BTW the instructions call for 16 of the igus 08-03. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you only
need 8 for this project.

Thanks dbanjac!
You are right about the number of IGUS bushes - I think I took the quantity in the BOM from the
number I'd ordered rather than the model!

That was very quick getting it all together! I agree it was a bit scary firing up the plasma from the
PC for the first time!

Si

Hi, all. Because of this project I moved to premium account in hope I will get more details in it, like
more photos and Solidworks files, but it seems there is nothing new. So I am little bit disapointed
and ask you guys, is possible to get more files?

As I'm sure you've found out, premium membership does not give you much extra/useful other than
the knowledge you are helping the community. However, I would direct your complaint at the site
owners rather than me!

I'm sorry you don't think there are enough photos etc - but it is what it is!

You could design your own - spend a few days writing it up with masses of photographs and info
then spend the next few years answering questions and trying to provide support - for no return
other than the joy of helping the maker movement.

Thank you for your answer. But you have all assembly files? Do you want to share them?

CNC Plasma Table: Page 35

 Everything is on GrabCad

I am not sure can Solidworks open Grabcad files, but if you want to share you can send them to
me and I will try. :-)

By chance, would you be willing to provide the 3d files (IGES, STP, ETC..) for this assembly? I use
Solidworks 2017 Currently.
I want to add some modifications to this for my needs, and it would save me a great deal of time.
Yours is the best one I have found by far, including the ones on GRABCAD. Thanks!

Everything is on GrabCad

I use Solid Works 2016. You can rebuild the part by importing the dxf and using the bend lines to
reform the parts. I had to do this to adjust the blank size to match the form tooling I was going to
use to form the parts. I'm going to be having parts cut soon

Does anyone currently have a set of brackets available in the US?

I have a new batch of brackets on the way. After building my table, i found a few things that
needed improvement. First off it seems to have some flex in the torch plate. I have found that the
original brackets material was a little thin, so i changed the material thickness from 1/8 to 3/16.
Also found that the roller bearings were not very good. So i changed them from the 6 mm up to 8
mm bolts. The new bearings are 8 x 30 x 14 mm. This will make things much more solid. I also
changed the height of the side plates from +6 inches down to +4 inches. 6 inches was just too high
for the 4th axis tube positioner. And lastly i made the pulley supports 40 mm wider to eleminate the
flexing in the pulley connection shaft. As an extra option the new bracket sets will have 2 x axis
motor plates. We found that with a bigger table, it needed more motor. So we added a second x
axis motor.
The new brackets are currently being cut in the uk. I am selling them for $425.00 a set shipped to
any usa address. International shipping will cost more of course. If anyone wants a set, i am taking
payments via pay-pal. Your payment will help offset my costs and will reserve your parts for first
shipment. I am only ordering 11 sets due to the cost out of pocket. Please contact me if you want
to buy some.
Thanks
Randy Gabriel.

Hi Randy ,
Do you have any more sets of the updated brackets and details on the 4th axis?
Peter

Hi Randy, do you still have the brackets for the plasma table?

CNC Plasma Table: Page 36

Yes, I have a few sets left. Please contact me at [email protected] for any further interest.

Thanks
Randy

Yes, I have a few sets left.

Please advise your price. Is there a current drawing of the parts with your mods? What is your
expected delivery?
[email protected]

CNC Plasma Table: Page 37