Indonesia 11 Bali PDF
Indonesia 11 Bali PDF
Indonesia 11 Bali PDF
F
Indonesia
Bali
(PDF Chapter)
Edition 11th Edition, Jul 2016
Pages 105
Page Range 197–301 COVERAGE INCLUDES:
Useful Links • Kuta & Legian • Amed & the Far East
• Seminyak & Coast
Want more guides?
Head to our shop Kerobokan • Gunung Batur
• Bukit Peninsula • Danau Bratan
Trouble with your PDF?
• Sanur • Lovina
Trouble shoot here
• Denpasar • Balian Beach
Need more help? • Nusa Lembongan
Head to our FAQs
• Ubud
Stay in touch • Padangbai
Contact us here • Candidasa
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it
to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Bali
POP 4.2 MILLION
Best Places to
10/50
4/100
Stay -0/32
J F M A M J J A S O N D
0
666666
\
# Betekan
JAVA
BALI SEA
Selogiri Prapat Pulau
\
#
Agung Menjangan
Peninsula
666666
Gunung
R Prapat Agung Banyuwedang Pemuteran
Ketapang (310m) \
# \
# \
#
\
# Labuhan Lovina
\
# Gilimanuk Lalang
\
#
Seririt
\
#
Cekik Gunung Celukanbawang \
#
Gunung Musi \
#
Merbuk
\
#
Pengastulen
R (1224m)
(1388m)
666666
Gungung R
R
R Rangdu \
#
Kelatakan Gunung Mayong
\
#
(698m) Sanglang
Ba li H i ghl i ghts
(1004m)
#
÷ Munduk #
5\
#
Selat Bali Barat
Bali \
# Melaya National Park
Pupuan
\
#
666666
Pujungan \
#
Negara
\
#
Mendoyo
\
#
#
Þ
#\
Þ # Perancak
Pura
Pura Rambut \
#
Tanjung Balian Ù
#
Sembulungan Beach
Antosari
\
#
R
322m
R
375m
#
÷ Blambangan
Alas Purwo Peninsula
National Park
INDIAN OCEAN
e
# 0
0
20 km
10 miles
Bali Highlights
1 Shopping by day and 2 Discovering the beautiful (p247), where you can enjoy
hitting the hotspots by night string of hidden beaches in your choice of the island’s
in Seminyak, Kerobokan and around Bingin (p231), iconic dance and gamelan
(p216) and Canggu where the surfing is also fab. performances nightly.
(p225). 3 Revelling in Bali’s 4 Zipping along the
elaborate cultural life in Ubud nontouristy Sidemen road
199
Kubutambahan
Yeh
#
\ Sanih
Þ \#
# Þ
# #
\
Sangsit Pacung
Pura #
\
# Singaraja
]
Maduwe #
\ Tejakula
#
\
#
\
Karang
Sukasade Gunung Sembirenteng
Sawan #
\
Penulisan
(1745m)
R #
\ Tembok
# Gitgit
\ Gunung Tianyar
Penulisan \
# Batur
#
\
Catur (1717m) Songan
Pura Ulun R #
\ #
\
Gunung R
Danu Bratan Kintamani \
# #
\ Toya Bungkah Kubu
Þ Catur
Ba li H i ghl i ghts
#
\
#
\ (Candikunung) # #
\ Batur
Danau Gunung
Gunung R Candikuning Batur R Abang Gili Trawangan
Lesong #
\ Penelokan \
# (30km);
(1860m)
#
\ #
\ Pelaga (2152m) Tulamben \
#
Lombok
Bedugul
(35km)
Gunung
D
R Batukau Gunung Culik \
#
\
#
\ Pacung R Agung #
Amed
#
\ (2276m)
(3142m) #
\ Aas
Þ
# Kayuanbua \
#
Besakih
Pura Luhur Jatiluwih
#
\
# Pura
Þ
Pampatan Besakih Gunung
Batukau #
\
Petang Tirta
#
\
Kayubihi \
#
#
\
#
\ R Seraya
Rendang Gangga (1175m)
#
\ Penebel Pujung \
#
Tampaksiring
#
\
#
\ #
\ Muncan
# Payangan
\ # Pura Kehen
Þ Amlapura ]
#
Bangli \
# #
\ Iseh #
\
(Bangli)
Marga \
#
Ujung
Bukit \ 4 Sidemen
#
#
\ #
\ Tenganan
#
\ Sangeh Jambul
#
Pura Goa
#
\ Candidasa
Ubud #
3
#
\ #
\ Pejeng Semarapura Lawah Padangbai
(Klungkung)
#
\ #
\
Tabanan ]
# Mas \
# # Sidan
] #
\ #
Þ f
#
#
\ Mengwi Gianyar #
\
Kediri #
\
Kusamba
#
\ Batuan #
\
Lebih
Sempidi\ Celuk \
# #
\ Sukawati
Pura #
Selat
Batubulan \ Selat
Tanah #
Ketewel Badung Lombok
Lot
Þ
# #
\
Nusa
Denpasar Lembongan
Canggu #
1 ^
#
#
1 Kerobokan
#
\
f
#
#
7
Ped f
#
#
\ Jungutbatu \
# f
# #
\ #
\ Sampalan
#
1 Seminyak
#
\ Sanur Lembongan\ #
#
\
Legian \
# Toyapakeh
Nusa #
\ Karangsari
Kuta #
6
#
\
Pura Sakenan Ceningan
Nusa
Benoa \ Þ (Pulau Serangan)
# Penida
R #
\ Semaya
# 529m
Harbour
#
\
Tanjung
Jimbaran
#
\
Benoa
(p269) through verdant lush region around Munduk 7 Diving off Nusa
scenery of majestic rice fields (p288). Lembongan (p243) to see
and valleys. 6 Plunging into the manta rays and mola mola
5 Feeling the mist from hedonistic nightlife of Kuta (sunfish), or kicking back and
waterfalls while hiking the (p206). enjoying island life.
200
History with introducing many of the complexities of
It’s certain that Bali has been populated since Balinese religion to the island. Artists, danc-
early prehistoric times, but the oldest hu- ers, musicians and actors also fled to Bali at
man artefacts found are 3000-year-old stone this time, and the island experienced an ex-
tools and earthenware vessels from Cekik. plosion of cultural activities. The final great
Not much is known of Bali during the peri- exodus to Bali took place in 1478.
od when Indian traders brought Hinduism to European Contact
the Indonesian archipelago; the earliest writ- The first Europeans to set foot in Bali were
ten records are stone inscriptions dating from Dutch seafarers in 1597. Setting a tradition
around the 9th century. By that time, rice was that prevails to the present, they fell in love
being grown under the complex irrigation with the island, and when Cornelius Hout-
system known as subak, and there were pre- man – the ship’s captain – prepared to set sail
Ba li H I S T O R Y
cursors of the religious and cultural traditions from Bali, some of his crew refused to leave
that can be traced to the present day. with him. At that time, Balinese prosperity
Hindu Influence and artistic activity, at least among the royal-
Hindu Java began to spread its influence ty, were at a peak. When the Dutch returned
into Bali during the reign of King Airlangga, to Indonesia in later years, they were inter-
from 1019 to 1042. At the age of 16, Airlangga ested in profit, not culture, and barely gave
fled into the forests of western Java when his Bali a second glance.
uncle lost the throne. He gradually gained Dutch Conquest
support, won back the kingdom once ruled In 1710 the capital of the Gelgel kingdom
by his uncle, and went on to become one of was shifted to nearby Klungkung, but local
Java’s greatest kings. Airlangga’s mother had discontent was growing, lesser rulers were
moved to Bali and remarried shortly after breaking away from Gelgel domination and
his birth, so when he gained the throne there the Dutch began to move in, using the old
was an immediate link between Java and policy of divide and conquer. In 1846 the
Bali. At this time, the courtly Javanese lan- Dutch used Balinese salvage claims over ship-
guage known as Kawi came into use among wrecks as the pretext to land military forces
the royalty of Bali, and the stunning rock- in northern Bali. In 1894 the Dutch chose to
cut memorials seen at Gunung Kawi near support the Sasaks of Lombok in a rebellion
Tampaksiring are a clear architectural link against their Balinese raja. After some bloody
between Bali and 11th-century Java. battles, the Balinese were defeated in Lom-
After Airlangga’s death, Bali retained its bok and, with northern Bali firmly under
semi-independent status until Kertanegara Dutch control, southern Bali was not to re-
became king of the Singasari dynasty in Java tain its independence for long.
two centuries later. Kertanegara conquered In 1906 the Dutch commenced their final
Bali in 1284, but his power lasted only eight assault. The three rajas of Badung realised
years until he was murdered and his kingdom that they were outnumbered and outgunned,
collapsed. With Java in turmoil, Bali regained and that defeat was inevitable. Surrender and
its autonomy and the Pejeng dynasty, centred exile, however, was the worst imaginable out-
near modern-day Ubud, rose to great power. come, so they decided to take the honourable
In 1343 Gajah Mada, the legendary chief min- path of a suicidal puputan – a fight to the
ister of the Majapahit kingdom, defeated the death.
Pejeng king Dalem Bedaulu and brought Bali The Dutch begged the Balinese to surren-
back under Javanese influence. der rather than make their hopeless stand,
Although Gajah Mada brought much of but their pleas went unheard and wave after
the Indonesian archipelago under Majapa- wave of Balinese nobility marched to their
hit control, Bali was the furthest extent of deaths. In all, nearly 4000 Balinese died in
its power. Here the ‘capital’ moved to Gelgel, the puputan.
near modern-day Semarapura (Klungkung), The kingdoms of Karangasem and Gi-
around the late 14th century, and for the next anyar had already capitulated to the Dutch
two centuries this was the base for the ‘king and were allowed to retain some powers,
of Bali’, the Dewa Agung. but other kingdoms were defeated and the
As the Majapahit kingdom fell apart, rulers exiled. Finally, the raja of Klungkung
many of its intelligentsia moved to Bali, in- followed the lead of Badung and once more
cluding the priest Nirartha, who is credited the Dutch faced a puputan. With this last
201
Ba li C U LT U R E
conservation area, for the creation of Dubai-style artificial islands housing luxury resorts,
villas, a casino, a golf course, an amusement park and a car-racing track. The bay was a
protected conservation area until outgoing Indonesia president Susilo Bambang Yudho-
yono revoked its status in 2014, giving the green light for development. Not only did this
decision spark outrage for its supposed murky behind-the-scenes dealings, but feasabil-
ity studies suggested it will result in rising sea levels and flooding, causing genuine fear
that the Benoa Bay development will mean ecological disaster.
Tolak Reklamasi has urged the younger generation to take responsibility for their
homeland and ‘reclaim Bali’ from developers. As well as speaking to environmentalists,
the movement has galvanised students, village elders, NGOs, artists, fishers, local busi-
ness owners and prominent members of the community to rally against the decision. In
2015 the drummer for internationally renowned Balinese punk band Superman is Dead,
Jerinx, an activist and vocal opponent of the project, met with current president Joko
Widodo to discuss the matter. In this meeting, according to the Indonesia newspaper
Kompas, Jerinx urged the president to cancel the decision, stating ‘People come to Bali
not looking for Disneyland or F1, but for the culture of Bali. This is what we stand for.’
While the future for Benoa Bay appears grim, groups such as Tolak Reklamasi and Bali
Not for Sale (www.facebook.com/balinotforsale) are playing an important role to protect
Bali’s future.
obstacle disposed of, all of Bali was now un- in roads, telecommunications, education
der Dutch control and became part of the and health. Though tourism has had some
Dutch East Indies. Dutch rule over Bali was marked adverse environmental and social
short-lived, however, as Indonesia fell to the effects, Bali’s unique culture has proved to be
Japanese in WWII. remarkably resilient.
Bali has also been affected by global poli-
Independence
tics. In October 2002 two simultaneous bomb
On 17 August 1945, following the end of explosions in Kuta – targeting an area fre-
WWII, the Indonesian leader Sukarno pro- quented by tourists – injured or killed more
claimed the nation’s independence; however, than 500 people. Tourism, and therefore the
it took four years to convince the Dutch that economy, was devastated. Soon after, the 2005
they were not going to get their colony back. Bali bombings killed 20 and injured hun-
In a virtual repeat of the puputan nearly dreds. Fortunately, the last decade has been
half a century earlier, a Balinese resistance peaceful, and recent years have seen Bali re-
group was wiped out in the Battle of Marga turn to form as a tourist destination.
on 20 November 1946; Bali’s airport, Ngurah
Rai, is named after its leader. It was not until Culture
1949 that the Dutch recognised Indonesia’s
Bali’s culture is unique, without a hint of cli-
independence.
ché. The Balinese version of Hinduism that’s
Modern Bali practised here with great fervour exists no-
The tourism boom, which started in the where else in the world, and has inspired fer-
early 1970s, has brought many changes to vent artistic expressions that charm visitors.
Bali, and has helped pay for improvements
202
The population in Bali is almost all In- cultural life, so new influences were simply
donesian; more than 90% of these are of overlaid on existing practices – hence the pe-
Balinese Hindu descent and could be de- culiar Balinese interpretation of Hinduism.
scribed as ethnic Balinese. The remaining The Balinese believe that spirits are every-
residents are mostly from other parts of the where, an indication that animism is the
country, predominantly Java. basis of much of their religion. Good spirits
The traditional Balinese society is intense- dwell in the mountains and bring prosperity
ly communal; the organisation of villages, to the people, while giants and demons lurk
the cultivation of farmlands and even the beneath the sea, and bad spirits haunt the
creative arts are communal efforts. A person woods and desolate beaches. The people live
belongs to their family, clan, caste and to the between these two opposites and their rituals
village as a whole. strive to maintain this middle ground. Offer-
Although tourism has brought much eco- ings are carefully made every morning to pay
Ba li C U LT U R E
nomic wealth to the island and there exists homage to the good spirits, and nonchalantly
a burgeoning middle class, Bali’s traditional placed on the ground to placate the bad ones.
rice-growing culture remains revered, even
Temples
as swathes of land are sold for develop-
ment. In 2012 Unesco recognised the island’s The word for temple is pura, a Sanskrit word
rice-growing traditions, including the com- meaning ‘a space surrounded by a wall’. As
munal subak water distribution system. with so much of Balinese religion, temples,
Balinese society is held together by collec- though nominally Hindu, owe much to the
tive responsibility. For instance, if a woman pre-Majapahit era. Their kaja, kelod or
enters a temple while menstruating, it is a kangin (alignment towards the mountains,
kind of irreverence, an insult to the gods, and the sea or the sunrise) is in deference to spir-
their displeasure falls not just on the trans- its that are more animist than Hindu.
gressor but on the whole community. This Most villages have at least three temples.
collective responsibility produces considera- The most important temple is the pura
ble pressure on the individual to conform to puseh (temple of origin), which is dedicated
adat – the traditional laws and customs that to the village founders and is at the kaja end
form core Balinese values. of the village. In the middle of the village
is the pura desa for the spirits that protect
Religion the village community in its day-to-day life.
You can’t miss religion in Bali; there are tem- At the kelod end of the village is the pura
ples in every village, shrines in every field dalem (temple of the dead). The graveyard is
and offerings made at every corner. also here and the temple will often include
The Balinese are nominally Hindu, but representations of Durga, the terrible incar-
Balinese Hinduism is half a world away from nation of Shiva’s wife.
that of Indian. When the Majapahits evacuat- Families worship their ancestors in family
ed to Bali they took with them their religion temples, clans in clan temples and the whole
and its rituals, as well as their art, literature, village in the pura puseh. Certain temples
music and culture. The Balinese had their in Bali are of such importance that they are
own strong religious beliefs and an active deemed to be owned by the whole island
NYEPI
Bali’s major Hindu festival, Nyepi celebrates the end of the old year and the start of the
next. It’s marked by inactivity – a strategy to convince evil spirits that Bali is uninhabited,
so they’ll leave the island alone for another year.
For the Balinese, it’s a day for meditation and introspection. For foreigners, the rules
are more relaxed, so long as you respect the ‘Day of Silence’ by not leaving your resi-
dence or hotel. If you do sneak out, you will be be escorted back to your hotel by a stern
pecalang (village police officer). The airport also closes during Nyepi.
As daunting as it sounds, Nyepi is actually a fantastic time to be in Bali. Firstly, there’s
the inspired concept of being forced to do nothing. Secondly, the night before Nyepi sees
the spectacle of celebrations with ogoh-ogoh, huge papier-mâché monsters that go up
in flames.
In coming years, dates for Nyepi are 28 March 2017, 17 March 2018 and 5 April 2019.
203
rather than by individual villages. Over-
all Bali has more than 10,000 temples and TOP BALI READS
shrines in all shapes and sizes. ¨¨Bali Daze – Freefall off the Tourist
The simple shrines or thrones you see, for Trail – Cat Wheeler’s accounts of daily
example, in rice fields or next to sacred old life in Ubud ring more true than other
trees are not real temples, as they are not recent books.
walled. You’ll find these shrines in all sorts
¨¨Secrets of Bali: Fresh Light on the
of places, such as overlooking intersections
Morning of the World – One of the
or dangerous curves in the road to protect
most readable books about Bali, its
road users.
people, its traditions and more. Authors
For much of the year Balinese temples
Jonathan Copeland and Ni Wayan Murni
are deserted, but on holy days it’s believed
have a winner.
that the deities and ancestral spirits descend
Ba li C U LT U R E
from heaven to visit their devotees, and the ¨¨Hotel K – Serving as a cautionary tale
temples come alive with days of frenetic ac- to avoid drugs in Bali. Kathryn Bonella
tivity and nights of drama and dance. Temple offers insight on life inside Kerobokan’s
festivals occur at least once every Balinese infamous prison.
year (210 days). Because most villages have ¨¨Eat, Pray, Love – Love it or hate it,
at least three temples, you’re assured of at every year this bestseller lures to Bali
least five or six annual festivals in every vil- believers hoping to capture something
lage. The full-moon periods, around the end in Elizabeth Gilbert’s prose.
of September to the beginning of October, or
early to mid-April, are often times of impor-
tant festivals. Traditional Balinese paintings were nar-
Galungan-Kuningan is a 10-day festival ratives with mythological themes, illustrat-
during which lots of activity takes place at ing stories from Hindu epics and literature.
family and community temples all over the Paintings were executed in the wayang style
island. – the flat two-dimensional style that imitates
Arts wayang kulit (shadow puppets), with the fig-
The Balinese have no words for ‘art’ and ures invariably shown in three-quarter view.
‘artist’ because, traditionally, art has never The colours that artists could use were strict-
been regarded as something to be treasured ly limited: red, blue, brown, yellow, and light
for its own sake. Prior to the tourism boom, ochre for flesh.
art was just part of everyday life, and what Bali’s painting traditions remain vibrant
was produced went into temples, palaces or and rich today. Ubud is the place to ponder
festivals. Although respected, the painter or the best paintings in museums and galleries.
carver was not considered a member of some Dance
special elite; the artist’s work was not signed; Music, dance and drama are closely related
and there were no galleries or craft shops. in Bali. In fact, dance and drama are synony-
It’s a different story today, with thou- mous, though some ‘dances’ are more drama
sands of art outlets tucked into every pos- and less dance, and others more dance and
sible crevice. Although much Balinese art less drama.
is churned out quickly as cheap souvenirs, Many visitors are seduced by the haunting
buried beneath the reproductions of repro- and melodic charms of a dance performance
ductions there’s still much beautiful work to in Ubud, a quintessential Bali experience.
be found. Most visitors to the island discover Balinese dance tends to be precise, shifting
the greatest concentration of the arts in and and jerky, like the accompanying gamelan
around Ubud. music, which has abrupt shifts of tempo and
Balinese Painting dramatic changes between silence and crash-
The art form most influenced both by West- ing noise. There’s virtually no physical contact
ern ideas and tourist demand is painting. Tra- in Balinese dancing – each dancer moves in-
ditional painting was very limited in style and dependently, but every movement of wrist,
subject matter, and was used primarily for hand and finger is important. Even facial
temple decoration. The arrival of Western art- expressions are carefully choreographed to
ists after WWI introduced new subject matter convey the character of the dance.
and materials with which artists could work.
204
WHAT’S IN A NAME
Far from being straightforward, Balinese names are as fluid as the tides. Everyone has a
traditional name, but their other names often reflect events in each individual’s life. They
also help distinguish between people of the same name, which is perhaps nowhere more
necessary than in Bali.
Traditional naming customs seem simple enough, with a predictable gender-
nonspecific pattern to names. The order of names, with variations for regions and
caste, is as follows:
¨¨First born Wayan (Gede, Putu)
¨¨Second born Made (Kadek, Nengah, Ngurah)
Ba li G E
Subsequent children reuse the same set, but as many families now settle for just two
ett
T T Ii N
Castes also play an important role in naming and have naming conventions that clear-
G T here
ly denote status when added to the birth-order name. Bali’s caste system is much less
complicated than India’s.
H E R E & Away
¨¨Sudra Some 90% of Balinese are part of this, the peasant caste. Names are preceded
by the title ‘I’ for a boy and ‘Ni’ for a girl.
AWAY
¨¨Wesya The caste of bureaucrats and merchants. Gusti Bagus (male) and Gusti Ayu
(female).
¨¨Ksatria A top caste, denoting royalty or warriors. I Gusti Ngurah (male) and I Gusti Ayu
(female), with additional titles including Anak Agung, and Dewa.
¨¨Brahman The top of the heap: teachers and priests. Ida Bagus (male) and Ida Ayu
(female).
Traditional names are followed by another given name; this is where parents can get
creative. Some names reflect hopes for their child, as in I Nyoman Darma Putra, who’s
supposed to be ‘dutiful’ or ‘good’ (dharma). Others reflect modern influences, such as I
Wayan Radio who was born in the 1970s, and Ni Made Atom, who said her parents just
liked the sound of this scientific term that also had a bomb named after it.
Many children are tagged for their appearance. Nyoman Darma is often called Nyo-
man Kopi (coffee) for the darkness of his skin compared with that of his siblings. I Wayan
Rama, named after the Ramayana epic, is called Wayan Gemuk (fat) to differentiate his
physique from his slighter friend Wayan Kecil (small).
Dances are a regular part of almost every to hear gamelan music in Bali; not only is it
temple festival, and Bali has no shortage of a core part of ceremonies but groups practise
these. There are also dances virtually every regularly.
night at tourist centres; the most authentic
are found in and around Ubud. 88 Getting There & Away
In late 2015, nine Balinese dances were
officially recognised by Unesco and added AIR
to its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Bali is the second most common entry point to
Humanity. Indonesia. The only airport in Bali, Ngurah Rai
International Airport (DPS; http://bali-airport.
Gamelan com), is just south of Kuta; however, it is some-
As with Sumatran and Javanese, Balinese times referred to internationally as Denpasar
music is based around the gamelan or- (which is 15km north) or, on some internet flight-
booking sites, as Bali. Completion of the airport’s
chestra. The whole gamelan orchestra is
expansion and renovation has transformed it into
known as a gong – an-old-fashioned gong
one of Indonesia’s most shiny, modern airports,
gede or a more modern gong kebyar. It’s easy with world-class facilities and restaurants.
205
In addition to its international flights, Bali is also 88 Getting Around
a hub for domestic flights across the archipelago.
The best way to get around Bali is with your own
As of February 2015 departure tax is now in- transport. This gives you the flexibility to explore
cluded in all international and domestic airfares. at will and allows you to reach many places that
BUS are otherwise inaccessible.
Mengwi bus terminal is 12km northwest of TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Denpasar, just off the main road to west Bali.
Fixed-price taxis operate from the official coun-
Many long-distance buses to/from Denpasar’s
ter at the airport arrivals area. Costs depend on
Ubung bus terminal (p241) stop here.
drop-off point; however, efforts may be made to
When travelling to/from south Bali, you can charge you the high end of the range, so it pays
save time by using this terminal instead of Den- to know the location of your hotel.
pasar’s. Metered taxis are available and fares
Ba li G E
should be 150,000Rp to 200,000Rp from Meng- DESTINATION FARE (RP)
wi to various destinations in the south. Candidasa 425,000
Ferry crossing to/from Bali is included in the
Canggu 225,000
services offered by numerous bus companies,
ett
T T Ii N
many of which travel overnight to Java. It’s ad- Denpasar 125,000-175,000
visable to buy tickets at least one day in advance
ng
Jimbaran 100,000-150,000
G A round
from a travel agent or at the terminals in Den-
Kuta Beach 70,000-80,000
pasar (Ubung) or Mengwi. Note that flying can be
ROUND
as cheap as taking the bus. Legian 95,000
Fares vary between operators; it’s worth paying Nusa Dua 150,000
extra for a decent seat. All have air-con. Typical Sanur 150,000
routes from Mengwi and Denpasar include
Surabaya (150,000Rp, 12 hours), Yogyakarta Seminyak/Kerobokan 110,000-150,000
(350,000Rp, 16 hours) and Jakarta (470,000Rp, Ubud 300,000
24 hours). You can also get buses from Singaraja
Ulu Watu 200,000-225,000
in north Bali.
SEA Note if you have a surfboard, you’ll be charged at
least 35,000Rp extra.
Ferries operate between Gilimanuk in western
Bali and Ketapang in Java. While metered Blue Bird taxis aren’t officially
allowed to pick up passengers from the airport,
Bali is accessible by regular public ferry to
they are allowed to drop off passengers. Hence
Padangbai, Sanur and Amed. Fast boats for
another option is to chance your luck on the 3rd
tourists serve the Gili Islands and Lombok.
floor to see if there’s a taxi waiting there.
Services to other islands in Indonesia are often
in flux, although Pelni, the national shipping line, BEMO
is reasonably reliable. It schedules large boats The bemo (a minibus or van with seats down
on long-distance runs throughout Indonesia. each side) was once the dominant form of public
For Bali, Pelni ships stop at the harbour in transport in Bali. But widespread motorcycle
Benoa as part of their regular loops throughout ownership (which can be cheaper than daily
Indonesia. Schedules and fares are found on the bemo use) has caused the system to wither. Due
website. You can enquire and book at the Pelni to unreliable (or complete lack of) scheduling,
ticket office (% 0361-763963; www.pelni.co.id; it’s uncommon to see visitors on bemos in Bali.
Jl Raya Kuta 299; h 8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, You can certainly expect journeys to be lengthy,
8am-1pm Sat) in Tuban. and you’ll find that getting to many places is
both time-consuming and inconvenient.
TRAIN
There is no train service on Bali but the State BICYCLE
Railway Company (% 0361-227131; Jl Dipone- Increasingly, people are touring the island by
goro 150/B4; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat sepeda (bicycle). Many visitors are also using
& Sun) does have an office in Denpasar. From here bikes around towns and for day trips in Bali.
buses leave for eastern Java, where they link with There are plenty of bicycles for rent in the tour-
trains at Banyuwangi for Surabaya, Yogyakarta ist areas; these cost around 30,000Rp per day.
and Jakarta, among other destinations. Fares
and times are comparable to the bus, but the BOAT
air-conditioned trains are more comfortable, even Boats of various sizes serve Nusa Lembongan
in economy class. Note: Google Translate works and Nusa Penida from Sanur and Padangbai.
well on the website.
206
TAXI
BALI WEBSITES Metered taxis are common in south Bali and
Denpasar (but not in Ubud). They are essential
Coconuts Bali (http://bali.coconuts.co) for getting around these areas and you can
Good source for local news, features usually flag one down in busy areas. They’re
and reviews. often a lot less hassle than haggling with drivers
InBali (www.inbali.org) Glossy site featur-
offering ‘transport!’.
¨¨ Taxis are fairly cheap: Kuta to Seminyak can
ing articles, tips and restaurant reviews.
be just 50,000Rp.
Bali.com (www.bali.com) Overview and ¨¨ The best taxi company by far is Blue Bird
practical info. Taxi (% 0361-701111; www.bluebirdgroup.com),
Bali Belly (www.balibelly.com) Access which uses blue vehicles with a light on the
past editions of this excellent magazine roof bearing a stylised blue bird. Watch out for
Ba li K
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ all times. Many expats will use no other firm.
ett
TA i &
indonesia) Destination information, hotel Blue Bird has a slick phone app that summons a
taxi to your location. Flagfall is 7000Rp, and it’s
ng
# #
\ Munggu
Beraban \ Guwang \
# \
# Petanu
#
Batubulan \
Ketewel #
\
Tohpati #
\ Pabean
#
Pererenan Ù #
\
Beach #
\
Seseh #
\ Gumicik Selat
\
# Batu Mejan Lombok
Echo Beach Ù
# \ ^
# Denpasar
# Canggu Nusa Pura Dalem
#
\
:
Lembongan : Sampalan
Berawa Sanur Penetaran Ped #
\
\
#f# \
#: :
Jungutbatu #
Kerobokan Boats to #
\
Þ\#
#
\
\
#Tegalwagni Nusa : : Toyapakeh Ped
#
Lembongan \
\
# Seminyak Lembongan : :
Nusa
: :
Ceningan \
# Sakti #
\ Karangsari
#
\ Pesanggaran Crystal Ù
# Legian
Legian Beach Ù #
\
#
\
# Suwung Bay Beach \
# Klumpu
#\
Kuta Beach Ù # Kuta \
# Ponjok R #
\ Suana
#
Dukuh \
Bukit Mundi
Teluk Tuban (529m)
Ngurah Rai #
\ #
\
Kuta Benoa # Pulau #
Batumadeg \ Pejukatan
Airport –
# Harbourf Serangan Selat #
\ Semaya
#
\
Teluk \
# Tanjung Benoa Badung
Jimbaran Teluk Nusa Batukandik
Benoa Penida
Jimbaran Beach Ù#\#
Jl Ngurah #
\ Tanglad
Balangan Jimbaran
Beach Rai Bypass
Ù
# #
Bualu \
atu
#
Dreamland Ù #
\
Bingin Ù Nusa Dua
# Cenggiling Garuda Wisnu
lu W
#
\
#
÷ Kencana Cultural
Pecatu Park BUKIT
Jl U
Padang Ù
#
Padang Indah PENINSULA
Beach #
æ \ \
# Pecatu #
\ Ungasan
# Ulu Watu
#
\
Kutuh
#
Þ
Pura Dalem
Penetaran Ped
INDIAN
OCEAN
G outh
Ba li S ett
O AALround
B al
U TiHng iI
207
208
6
Kuta, Legian & Seminyak e
#0
0 2 km
1 miles
rawa
n
Jl R aya Pan t
ka
Jl Raya Kerobo
e
ntai B
Ù
#
6 444
Echo
Jl Raya Pa
Beach
Ù
#
ai B
Batu SEMER
erawa
Bolong Ù
#
Beach Prancak KUWUM
Beach
Jl Uma l a s
66
JI Gunung Tang
Ba li K
ku b a n Per
444
Batubelig a
Beach Ù# KEROBOKAN
hu
S iouth
Kerobokan
uta
Beach Ù
ghts
4444
444
ati
iM
Su n ga
& BL al
SEMINYAK
egii an
4444
See Seminyak & PEMECUTAN
Kerobokan
Seminyak Ù
Beach #
Jl Ra
Map (p218)
4444
Jl N
ya S
a kula
e
miny
Jl
LEGIAN
4444 S un
Teluk Kuta
ak
Legian Ù
se
Beach
#
am Bonjol
t
JlM
Jl Le
4444
aja
pahi t
ian g
66
Kuta
Im
ss
Beach Ù
#
KUTA
4444
pa
Jl
By
æ
#
JI Ngurah
4444
44
Waterbom
Tuban
Beach Ù
# Park
66
6
66
TUBAN
44
JI Raya T
Jl Ked iri
44
uban
– International
# Benoa
Airport
66
:
:
44
:
vendors. Shiny air-conditioned malls and 1 Sights
chain hotels are indicative of its rapid The real sights here are, of course, the
commercialisation. beaches.
Kuta has Bali’s most raucous clubs, and you
can still find a simple room for 150,000Rp in oKuta Beach BEACH
dozens of hotels. Legian appeals to a slightly (Map p210) Tourism in Bali began here and is
older crowd (some jest it’s where fans of Kuta there any question why? Low-key hawkers
go after they’re married). It is equally tacky will sell you soft drinks and beer, snacks and
and has a long row of family-friendly hotels other treats, and you can rent surfboards,
close to the beach. Tuban is more sleepy than lounge chairs and umbrellas (negotiable at
Kuta and Legian, but has a higher percentage 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp) or just crash on the
of visitors on package holidays. sand. The sunsets here are legendary.
209
oLegian Beach BEACH
(Map p210) An extension of Kuta Beach to the BALI FOR KIDS
south, Legian Beach is quieter thanks to the There’s no shortage of fun for the kids
lack of a raucous road next to the sand and on their Bali visit.
fewer people.
Best Beaches
Double Six Beach BEACH
Kids of all ages will get their kicks at
(Map p210) The beach becomes less crowded Bali’s beaches, from the surf schools
as you go north from Legian until very pop- at Kuta Beach to kite-flying at Sanur
ular Double Six Beach, which is alive with (p236).
pick-up games of football and volleyball all
day long. It’s a good place to meet locals. Best Water Fun
Play in the ocean at Nusa Lembongan
Ba li K
Tuban Beach BEACH
(p242), or snorkel at Pulau Menjangan
Tuban’s beach is a mixed bag. There are wide (p296). For something different, walk
and mellow stretches of sand to the south
S outh
A
across the rice fields – who could resist
ct
uta
but near the Discovery Mall it disappears the promise of muddy water filled with
i v&
entirely. ducks, frogs and other fun critters?
i tBLi es
Memorial Wall MONUMENT
al
Best Adventure Parks
egii an
(Map p210; Jl Legian) This memorial wall re-
Kids can make like monkeys at Bali
flects the international scope of the 2002
Treetop Adventure Park (p288) in
bombings, and people from many countries
Candikuning or hit the aquatic play-
pay their respects. Listing the names of the
ground of Waterbom Park in Tuban.
202 known victims, including 88 Australians
and 35 Indonesians, it is starting to look just Best for Animals
a touch faded. Across the street, a parking lot Take the kids to Ubud’s Sacred Monkey
is all that is left of the destroyed Sari Club Forest Sanctuary (p251), the Bali Bird
(Map p210). Park (p265) south of Ubud, and the
Elephant Safari Park (p266) north of
2 Activities Ubud.
From Kuta you can easily go surfing, diving,
fishing or rafting anywhere in the southern
part of Bali and still be back for the start of Waterbom Park WATER PARK
happy hour at sunset. (% 0361-755676; www.waterbom-bali.com; Jl Kartika
Spas have proliferated, especially in hotels. Plaza; adult/child 490,000/325,000Rp; h 9am-
6pm) This watery amusement park covers 3.5
Jamu Traditional Spa SPA
hectares of landscaped tropical gardens. It
(Map p210; % 0361-752520 ext 165; www.jamu
has assorted water slides (21 in total), swim-
traditionalspa.com; Jl Pantai Kuta, Alam Kul Kul;
ming pools, a FlowRider surf machine, a su-
massage from 600,000Rp; h 9am-7pm) In serene
pervised park for children under five years
surrounds at a resort hotel you can enjoy mas-
old, and a ‘lazy river’ ride. Other indulgences
sage in rooms that open onto a pretty garden
include a food court, a bar and a spa.
courtyard. If you’ve ever wanted to be part of a
fruit cocktail, here’s your chance – treatments
involve tropical nuts, coconuts, papayas and
4 Sleeping
more, often in fragrant baths. Wandering the gang (alleys) looking for
a cheap room is a rite of passage for many
Bali Sea Turtle Society TURTLE HATCHERY visitors. Small and family-run options are
(Map p210; www.baliseaturtle.org; Kuta Beach; still numerous even as chains and five-star
h 4.30pm Apr-Oct) Lend a hand in re-releasing resorts crowd in.
turtle hatchlings into the ocean from Kuta
Beach around 4.30pm from April to October. oHotel Ayu Lili Garden HOTEL $
The release is organised by the Bali Sea Tur- (Map p210; % 0361-750557; ayuliligardenhotel@
tle Society, a conservation group doing great yahoo.com; off Jl Lebak Bene; r with fan/air-con
work in protecting olive ridley turtles. Join the from 175,000/226,000Rp; as ) In a relative-
queue to collect your baby turtle, pay a small ly quiet area near the beach, this vintage
donation, and join the group to release them. family-run hotel has 22 bungalow-style
210
outh
S leep
Ba li K egii an
BL al
uta &i ng
500 m
Kuta & Legian e
# 00 0.25 miles
444444A B C
See Seminyak & Kerobokan Map (p218)
D E F G
444444
1
ÿ
# 10
Jl Arjuna (Jl Doubl
e S i x)
#
ú 21 1
#
24 ú Jl Nakula
444444Ù
#3
9
ç
# Jl Pura Bagus Taruna
(Jl Werkudara)
444444
Jl P
Jl Nakula
ant
Jl Ra
ai A
r
ya S
2 2
e
444444
ju n
a
miny
ak
Sun
19 13
444444 n
Legia
gai
ú
# Gangwogah
#
ÿ
Te
J
Mat
l
i
#
ÿ þ 28
16
Su
444444
ns
et
Jl P
3 3
adma
#
2Ù
444444
Jl D
Legian
Utara
Beach
ew
)
Yudistra
iS
a (JI
ri
JI Padm
444444
Jl Sa
h
Puseh
adew
444444 ura
a
4
È Jl P 4
È
i
Jl Melast
È
È
444444 È
ú
23 #
Jl Pa t ih
Jelantik
#
Ø
444444
4 4
Jl Pa t ih
Jelantik
È
Ø
#7
444 Trans-
È
ç
#8 Sarbagita
17 ›
#
5 Teluk 444 #
ÿ 5
È
i
Kuta nesar
Jl Be
Jl Le
ÿ
# 15
Jl Le
Jl M
(Jl P
bak
a ja
444 12
ian
anta
#
ÿ
ah
it
Sungai
ene (J
i Ban
M
È
444
at
i
jar
22
#
ú
ñ
# 14
set
Pand
6 ÿ
# 6
e
27
l Benesari)
un
444 #
û
Jl Imam Bonjol
Jl S
Mas)
II (Jl Batu
Bolong)
26
#
û
444 #
1Ù
#
ú 18
#
û 25
Kuta þ
#
Ga n g Bedugul
Beach 29
444 #
Gang S orga
Perama
7 Pop 7
pies 11
Ga ng I
444 ÿ
##ú 20 È î
# BIMC
È
È
444 Jl Pantai Kuta
È
666
s
Sari
Ø
#6
y pa s
Walkway
al Wangi È
eng
Kuta Sq
ñ
#
ai B
Jl Buni
444 Jl T
JI Raya Kuta
8 8
hR
Beach
ÈJl Bakung Sari (Jl Singasari) 666
J l B l a mbangan
ò
#
ura
D
JI N
27 Twice Bar..................................................D6
outh
uta &i ng
ÿ Sleeping
10 Double-Six ................................................ A1 þ Shopping
11 Funky Monkey Hostel............................. D7 28 Luke Studer.............................................. E3
BL al
egii an
rooms. Standards are high and for more Gang 19, 21 and Abdi. It has a deluxe dorm
dosh you can add amenities such as a fridge. room with eight beds.
Funky Monkey Hostel HOSTEL $ Sari Beach Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p210; % 0812 4636 4386; www.funkymonkey (Map p210; % 0361-751635; www.saribeachinn.
bali.com; Poppies Lane 1; dm 60,000-120,000Rp, com; off Jl Padma Utara; r incl breakfast from US$70;
r 300,000Rp; aWs ) In a lovely location in aWs ) Follow your ears down a long gang
the back alleys of Kuta, close to Poppies Res- (alleyway) to the roar of the surf at this
taurant, this homely and intimate Dutch-run good-value beachside hotel that defines mel-
hostel is a top place to meet fellow travellers. low. It feels like a time warp from the 1980s
There’s a small pool, free pancakes and cheap but is perfect for a no-frills beach holiday.
beer. The cheaper dorms are outdoor bunks. The 21 rooms have patios and the best have
big soaking tubs. Grassy grounds boast many
Kayun Hostel Downtown HOSTEL $
little statues and water features.
(Map p210; % 0361-758442; www.kayun-downtown.
com; Jl Legian; dm incl breakfast from 190,000Rp; Love Fashion Hotel HOTEL $$
aWs ) In the heart of Kuta, close to all the (Map p210; % 0361-849 6688; www.lovefhotels.com;
nightlife, this hostel is the place to be if you’re Jl Legian 121; r incl breakfast from US$100; aWs )
here to party. Set in an elegant colonial build- This gaudy hotel in the heart of the Kuta
ing, the place has a sense of style and there’s a strip is an offshoot of the Fashion TV chan-
small plunge pool. Dorm rooms have between nel, featuring a design that’s suitably over
four and 20 beds, with curtains for privacy. the top. Strut your stuff down the catwalk in
the lobby, where mirrors and lighting effects
Island GUESTHOUSE $$
are designed to make you feel like a model.
(Map p210; % 0361-762722; www.theisland There’s a rooftop Jacuzzi and a bar with
hotelbali.com; Gang Abdi; dm/r incl breakfast from nightly parties.
250,000/500,000Rp; aiWs ) One of Bali’s
few flashpacker options, Island is a real find Double-Six RESORT $$$
– literally. Hidden in the attractive maze of (Map p210; % 0361-730466; www.double-six.com;
tiny lanes west of Jl Legian, this stylish place Double Six Beach 66; r incl breakfast from US$350;
with a sparkling pool lies at the confluence of aWs ) A colossus five-star resort, Double-
Six takes a leaf out of the Vegas book of
21 3
extravagance. Fronted by a luxurious 120m was one of the first restaurants to be estab-
pool, the spacious rooms all overlook the lished in Kuta (Poppies Gang I is even named
beach, and have 24-hour butlers and TVs in after it). It’s popular for its elegant garden
the bathrooms. It has several restaurants and setting and a menu of upmarket Balinese,
an enormous rooftop bar (p215). Western and Thai cuisine. The rijstaffel (se-
lection of dishes served with rice) and seafood
Stones RESORT $$$
is popular.
(Map p210; % 0361-300 5888; www.stoneshotelbali.
com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r incl breakfast from US$190; Take JAPANESE $$
aWs ) Looming across the road from Kuta (Map p210; % 0361-759745; Jl Patih Jelantik; meals
Beach, this vast resort boasts a huge pool, 70,000-300,000Rp; h 11am-11pm; W ) Flee Bali
a vertical garden and nearly 300 rooms in for a relaxed version of Tokyo just by duck-
five-storey blocks. The design is hip and con- ing under the traditional fabric shield over
Ba li K
temporary, and high-tech features such as the doorway at this ever-expanding restau-
huge HD TVs abound. It’s one of the growing rant. Hyper-fresh sushi, sashimi and more
S at
E
number of new mega-hotels along this strip; are prepared under the keen eyes of a team
outh
uta
it’s affiliated with Marriott. of chefs behind a long counter. The head chef
i ng
is a stalwart at the Jimbaran fish market in
& BL al
5 Eating the early hours.
egii an
There’s a profusion of places to eat around Stakz Bar & Grill AUSTRALIAN $$
Kuta and Legian. Tourist cafes, with their (Map p210; % 0361-762129; www.stakzbar
cheap menus of Indonesian standards, sand- andgrill.com; Jl Benesari; mains 40,000-140,000Rp;
wiches and pizza, are ubiquitous. Look close- h 8am-midnight; W ) From Vegemite on toast
ly and you’ll find genuine Balinese warungs and a flat white for brekkie, a potato-cake
(food stalls) tucked in amid it all. roll or a meat pie in the arvo, and an Aussie
Saleko INDONESIAN $ burger with the lot (including beetroot, egg
(Map p210; Jl Nakula 4; meals from 11,000Rp; and pineapple) for dinner: Stakz is a good
h 8am-11pm) If you haven’t tried Masakan Pa- spot to sample typical Australian tucker.
dang food yet, you haven’t eaten proper Indo- Mozzarella ITALIAN, SEAFOOD $$$
nesian. Saleko is a great place to sample this (Map p210; % 0361-751654; www.mozzarella-
simple, delicious and cheap Sumatran street resto.com; Jl Padma Utara; meals from 100,000Rp;
food. Spicy grilled chicken and fish dare you h noon-11pm; W ) The best of the beachfront
to ladle on the volcanic sambal – not de- restaurants on Legian’s car-free strip, Mozza-
spiced for timid tourist palates. All dishes are rella serves Italian fare that’s more authentic
halal; there’s no alcohol. than most. Fresh fish also features; service is
Warung Asia Thai Food ASIAN $ rather polished and there are various open-air
(Map p210; % 0361-742 0202; Jl Werkudara; meals areas for moonlit dining, plus a more shel-
from 32,000Rp; h 11am-late; W ) Staffed by ex- tered dining room.
ceptionally friendly waiters, this popular up-
stairs warung serves both Indo classics and 6 Drinking & Nightlife
Thai fare. It gets boozy and raucous at night. Sunset on the beach (at around 6pm year-
round) is the big attraction, perhaps while
oFat Chow ASIAN $$ enjoying a drink at a cafe with a sea view or
(Map p210; % 0361-753516; www.fatchowbali.com; with a beer vendor on the beach. Later on, the
Poppies Gang II; mains from 60,000Rp; h 10am- legendary nightlife action heats up.
11pm; W ) A stylish, modern take on the tra-
ditional open-fronted cafe, Fat Chow serves Sky Garden Lounge BAR, CLUB
up Asian-accented fare at long picnic tables, (Map p210; www.skygardenbali.com; Jl Legian 61;
small tables and lounges. The food is creative, h 24hr) This multilevel palace of flash flirts
with lots of options for sharing. Among the with height restrictions from its rooftop bar
favourites: crunchy Asian salad, pork buns, where all of Kuta twinkles around you. Look
Tokyo prawns and authentic pad thai. for top DJs, a ground-level cafe and paparazzi-
wannabes. Munchers can enjoy a long menu
Poppies Restaurant INDONESIAN $$ of bar snacks and meals, which most people
(Map p210; % 0361-751059; www.poppiesbali.com; pair with shots. Roam from floor to floor in
Poppies Gang I; mains 43,000-120,000Rp; h 8am- this vertical playpen.
11pm; W ) Opening its doors in 1973, Poppies
214
SURFING IN BALI
Bali’s legendary breaks are found right around the south side of the island. There’s a
large infrastructure of schools, board-hire places, cheap surfer accommodation and
more that caters to the crowds.
Here are six famous spots you won’t want to miss:
¨¨Kuta Beach (p208) Where surfing came to Asia. Long, steady breaks mean this can be
a good place for beginners.
¨¨Echo Beach (p223) Northwest of Kerobokan; there’s a good surfer scene here,
including cafes, board rental and more.
¨¨Ulu Watu (p232) Some of the largest – and most famous – sets in Bali. It featured in
Ba li K
¨¨Pantai Keramas (p267) This right-hander fast reef break is home to Bali’s main surf
r i nk&i ng
Ba li K
7 Shopping especially after heavy rain. Swim far away from
Kuta has a vast concentration of cheap, taw- streams, including the often foul and smelly
S hopp
one at Double Six Beach.
outh
uta &i B
dry shops, as well as huge, flashy surf-gear
emporiums. As you head north along Jl Le- EMERGENCY
gian, the quality of the shops improves, and Police Station (Map p210; % 0361-751598; Jl
ng
L al
you’ll start finding cute little boutiques –
egii an
Raya Kuta; h 24hr) Ask to speak to the tourist
especially near Jl Arjuna, which has whole- police.
sale fabric, clothing and craft stores, giving it Tourist Police Post (Map p210; % 0361-784
a bazaar-like feel. Large malls are also mak- 5988; Jl Pantai Kuta; h 24hr) This is a branch
ing inroads. of the main police station in Denpasar. It’s right
across from the beach; the officers have a gig
Surfer Girl CLOTHING that is sort of like a Balinese Baywatch.
(Map p210; www.surfer-girl.com; Jl Legian 138;
h 9am-10.30pm) A local legend, this vast store INTERNET ACCESS
for girls of all ages has a winsome logo that Most hotels and cafes have wi-fi. The back lanes
says it all. Clothes, gear, bikinis and plenty of of Kuta and Legian have numerous internet
other stuff in every shade of bubblegum ever spots.
made. MEDICAL SERVICES
Luke Studer SURFBOARDS BIMC (Map p210; % 0361-761263; www.
(Map p210; % 0361-894 7425; www.studer bimcbali.com; JI Ngurah Rai 100X; h 24hr) On
the bypass road just east of Kuta near the Bali
surfboards.com; Jl Dewi Sri 7A; h 9am-8pm) Leg-
Galleria shopping mall. It’s a modern Australian-
endary board shaper Luke Studer works from run clinic that can do tests, hotel visits and
this large and glossy shop. Shortboards, retro arrange medical evacuation. Visits can cost
fishes, single fins and classic longboards are US$100 or more. It has a branch in Nusa Dua.
sold ready-made or custom-built.
MONEY
88 Information ATMs abound and can be found everywhere,
including in the ubiquitous Circle K and Mini
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Mart convenience stores.
The streets and gang are usually safe but there Numerous ‘authorised’ moneychangers are
are annoyances. Your biggest irritation will likely efficient, open long hours and may offer good
be the chaotic traffic. exchange rates. Be cautious, though, where the
Things to watch out for: rates are markedly better than the norm. Extra
¨¨ Alcohol poisoning There are ongoing reports fees may apply or the moneychangers may be
of injuries and deaths among tourists and adeptly short-changing their customers.
locals due to arak (the local booze, tradition-
ally distilled from palm or cane sugar) being POST
adulterated with methanol, a poisonous form of Postal agencies that can send mail are common.
alcohol. Avoid offers of free cocktails and any Main Post Office (Map p210; % 0361-754012;
offers of arak. Jl Selamet; h 7am-2pm Mon-Thu, 7-11am Fri,
¨¨ Surf The surf can be dangerous, with a 7am-1pm Sat) On a little road east of Jl Raya
strong current on some tides, especially up Kuta, this small and efficient post office is well
north in Legian. Lifeguards patrol swimming practised in shipping large packages.
216
88 Getting There & Away an ice-cold Bintang on the beach at sunset is
simply magical. A good stretch can be found
BEMO near Pura Petitenget, and it tends to be less
Bemos (minibuses) regularly travel between crowded than further south in Kuta.
Kuta and the Tegal terminal in Denpasar; the Fewer crowds also means that the beach
fare should be 8000Rp. The route goes from Jl is less patrolled and the water conditions less
Raya Kuta near Jl Pantai Kuta, looping past the
monitored. The odds of encountering dan-
beach, then on Jl Melasti and back past Bemo
Corner for the trip to Denpasar. gerous rip tides and other hazards are ever-
present, especially as you head north.
TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
Perama (Map p210; % 0361-751551; www. Pura Petitenget HINDU TEMPLE
peramatour.com; Jl Legian 39; h 7am-10pm) (Map p218; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya) F This is an
is the main shuttle-bus operation in town, and important temple and the scene of many
Ba li S
may do hotel pickups and drop-offs for an extra ceremonies. It is one of a string of sea temples
10,000Rp (confirm this with the staff when that stretches from Pura Luhur Ulu Watu on
G em
making arrangements). It usually has at least the Bukit Peninsula north to Pura Tanah Lot
outh
etti nyak
one bus a day to its destinations. in western Bali. Petitenget loosely translates
as ‘magic box’; it was a treasured belonging
i ng
DURATION
B al
Candidasa 75,000 3½
this site often.
Lovina 125,000 4½
Batubelig Beach BEACH
& Away
Padangbai 75,000 3
(Map p226) Kerobokan’s beach is equal to
Sanur 35,000 30min
more famous beaches north and south. You
Ubud 60,000 2 can walk along the curving sands northwest
towards popular spots as far as Echo Beach.
88 Getting Around 2 Activities
The hardest part about getting around south Seminyak’s and Kerobokan’s spas are among
Bali is the traffic. Besides using taxis, you can
the best in Bali, and offer a huge range of
rent a motorbike, often with a surfboard rack.
One of the nicest ways to get around the area is treatments and therapies.
by foot along the beach. Spas
oJari Menari SPA
(Map p218; % 0361-736740; www.jarimenari.com;
Seminyak & Kerobokan Jl Raya Basangkasa 47; sessions from 385,000Rp;
Seminyak is flash, brash and arguably a bit h 9am-9pm) Jari Menari is true to its name,
phoney. It’s also a very dynamic place, home which means ‘dancing fingers’: your body
to dozens of restaurants and a wealth of exclu- will be one happy dance floor. The all-male
sive galleries, and the centre of life for hordes staff use massage techniques that emphasise
of the island’s expats. rhythm. You can book online, too.
Seminyak seamlessly merges with Kero-
bokan, which is immediately north; in fact Sundari Day Spa SPA
the exact border between the two is as fuzzy (Map p218; % 0361-735073; www.sundari-dayspa.
as most other geographic details in Bali. The com; Jl Petitenget 7; massages from 200,000Rp;
many restaurants combine to give travellers h 10am-10pm) This lovely spa strives to offer
the greatest choice of style and budget in Bali. the services of a five-star resort without the
One notable landmark is the notorious high prices. The massage oils and other po-
Kerobokan jail (Map p218; Jl Gunung Tangkuban tions are organic, and there’s a full menu of
Perahu), home to prisoners both infamous and therapies and treatments on offer.
unknown. Amo Beauty Spa SPA
(Map p218; % 0361-473 7943; www.amospa.com;
1 Sights 100 Jl Petitenget; massages from 200,000Rp;
Seminyak Beach BEACH h 9am-9pm) With some of Asia’s top models
(Map p218) Seminyak continues the long lounging about it feels like you’ve stumbled
sweep of Kuta Beach. A sunset lounger and into a Vogue shoot. In addition to massages,
217
SEMINYAK VILLAS
Whether you’re in Bali for a honeymoon, romantic getaway or you’re just looking to
splurge, staying in your own villa is a sublime experience. All villas offer full privacy within
a compound, with front gate, private pool, garden, butler and Zen-like serenity. Seminyak
is most well known for its abundance of villas, so here are a few of our favourites.
Villa Kubu (Map p218; % 0361-731129; www.villakubu.com; Jl Raya Seminyak, Gang Plawa 33F;
villa incl breakfast US$330; aWs ) A wonderful choice for those seeking that quintessen-
tial Balinese villa experience. In a residential locale, all private villas have their own pool,
surrounded by landscaped Balinese gardens with frangipani. It has massive semi-outdoor
bathrooms and luxurious interiors with all the mod cons. Breakfast is all you can eat and
there’s a free shuttle service.
Ba li S em
Samaya (Map p218; % 0361-731149; www.thesamayabali.com; Jl Kayu Aya; villas from US$600;
a iWs ) Understated yet cultured, the Samaya is one of the best bets for a villa right
leep
outh
on the beach in south Bali. It boasts 30 villas in a luxurious contemporary style, each
featuring a private pool. The food, from breakfast onwards, is superb.
i nyak
i ng
One Eleven (Map p218; % 0361-731343; www.111resorts.com; Jl Pangkung Sari 3; villas incl
B al&i K erobokan
breakfast from US$550; aWs ) Hidden behind the minimalist facade of a suave Japanese
restaurant, these villas have a 1960s modernist feel about them: cool, sophisticated and
stylish. Each has a manicured lawn, a sparkling pool, a spa pavilion and an open lounge
with full kitchen, where your private butler will cook up your breakfast. Contemporary
rooms have icy air-conditioning; elegant white-tone bathrooms have stand-alone tubs.
Mutiara Bali (Map p218; % 0361-734966; www.mutiarabali.com; Jl Braban 77; r US$75-140, villas
from US$155; aiWs ) The 17 private villas here are exceptionally good value, each with
an open lounge area looking out to a private plunge pool. While there are also hotel-style
rooms, here it’s all about the villas.
D
Nook (150m) 37
La Laguna (900m); 10 ÿ
#
ú
# Ø
#
Sedasa (1.8km);
Hungry Bird 53
1 (2.2km) #
þ #
ú
43
D ú
# 24
t
Jl Batubelig ge
# 46
ú en
66
t it
Pe
Jl 44
ú
#
# 13
ÿ
Ba li S em
KEROBOKAN
2
66
6
20 Ø
#
#
ÿ
leep
outh
ú 42
#
ú
#
38
i nyak
# 23
ÿ
i ng
4444
B al&i K erobokan
#4
Ø
ari
Jl Pa ngkung S
ú 36
#
ú
#
4444
û 51
# 25
3
4444
Kerobokan
Ù
# Beach
17 ÿ
#
2#
Þ 33
444444444
4444
#
ú Jl Brab
an
3 .
# Jl Kayu Ja 14 ÿ
#
Ù
# ti
#
ú 60 #
ú
4 61 41 #
444444444
39 þ
#
ÿ #
þ ú#
# ú
eroi)
30 #
ú#ú 40 28 l Ob û
Jl Kayu Aya (Jl Laks mana & J#
Jl P
19
þ # 49
e
ú#
# þ 59
tite
444444444
34 56
ng
et
444444444
#8
48 SEMINYAK
5 û
#
444444444
ad e
ar inan
Jl S
16 ÿ
#
444444444
444444444
Teluk
6 Kuta # ande
12 ÿ
arin
Jl S
444444444
duk nyu)
Tan a
m plung Jl Abim
Jl Ca ura &
ana P
(Jl Dhy #
ÿ
444444444
11
Seminyak Ù
#
Beach
# 18
ÿ
444444444
7
50 #
û
See Kuta & Legian Map (p210)
444444444 A B C D
219
e
#
0 500 m rooms are fairly basic but there are open-air
0 0.25 miles
E F bathrooms and plenty of potted plants. The
pool is a nice spot to lounge by, and it’s gen-
9 erally a mellow place popular with youngish
#
ú Ø
#
JI Gunung Tangkuba
couples.
#
ú n Perahu 1
Villa Karisa HOTEL $$
1#
æ (Map p218; % 0361-739395; www.villakarisabali.com;
Jl Drupadi 100X; r US$89-200; aWs ) It’s like
visiting the gracious friends in Bali you wish
you had. Ideally located on a little gang off
busy Jl Drupadi, this large villa-style inn has
kan
Ba li S em
Jl Raya Kerobo
2
comforts. Guests gather in the common room
or around the luxurious 12m pool. Enjoy Ja-
Jl Raya
leep
outh
See Canggu & Echo Beach Map (p226)
M
oOberoi
i nyak
HOTEL $$$
e rt
i ng
(Map p218; % 0361-730361; www.oberoihotels.
an
B al&i K erobokan
ad
47 û
# ÿ
# packers, M Boutique’s beds are capsule dorms,
54 22
þ
# which come with the benefit of privacy. Each
Bintang
ÿ
# Supermarket has shutter blinds, a small table, a reading
eminyak
##
ò ú light and a power point. The neatly trimmed
lawn and small plunge pool add charm. Rates
7
go up slightly on weekends.
# 55
þ
E F
220
12 Luna2 Studiotel....................................... C6
i ng
B al&i K erobokan
Ba li S
rants, both budget and top end.
Jl Kayu Aya; mains from 40,000Rp; h 7am-11pm;
Wv ) S The good vibes are organic at this
5 Seminyak
E at
vegetarian cafe and store. Choose from crea-
em
outh
Warung Aneka Rasa INDONESIAN $ tive salads, sandwiches or wholegrain vegan
iing
nyak
(Map p218; Jl Kayu Aya; meals from 20,000Rp; and raw-food goodies. It’s most famous for
its six-course ‘Planet Platter’ (75,000Rp). The
B al&i K erobokan
h 7am-8pm) Keeping things real in the heart
of Seminyak’s upmarket retail ghetto, this beverage menu includes fresh juices and de-
humble warung cooks up all the Indo clas- tox mixes.
sics in an inviting open-front cafe. Its Divine Earth (Map p218; % 0361-731964;
www.facebook.com/divineearthbali; Jl Raya Basang-
Warung Taman Bambu BALINESE $ kasa 1200A; h 7am-11pm; aWv ) S restau-
(Map p218; % 0361-888 1567; Jl Plawa 10; mains rant is also worth visiting; it has an upstairs
from 25,000Rp; h 9am-10pm; W ) This classic cinema that screens films nightly.
warung may look simple from the street but
the comfy tables are – like the many fresh Rolling Fork ITALIAN $$
and spicy dishes on offer – a cut above the (Map p218; % 0361-733 9633; Jl Kunti 1; mains from
norm. There’s a small stand for babi guling 75,000Rp; h 8.30am-11pm; W ) A gnocchi-sized
(suckling pig) right next door. little trattoria, Rolling Fork serves excellent
Italian fare. Breakfast features gorgeous
Revolver CAFE $ baked goods and excellent coffees. Lunch and
(Map p218; off Jl Kayu Aya; breakfast from 40,000Rp; dinner include authentic and tasty home-
h 7am-6pm; aW ) Wander down a tiny gang made pastas, salads, seafood and more. The
and push through narrow wooden doors to open-air dining room has an alluring retro
reach this matchbox of a coffee bar that does charm; the Italian owners provide just the
an excellent selection of brews. There are right accent.
just a few tables in the creatively retro room
that’s styled like a Wild West saloon; nab one Corner House CAFE $$
and enjoy tasty fresh bites for breakfast and (Map p218; % 0361-730276; www.cornerhousebali.
lunch. The juices are also worth a try. com; Jl Laksmana 10A; dishes 35,000-125,000Rp;
h 7am-11pm; W ) With polished concrete floors,
oMama San FUSION $$ dangling light bulbs, distressed walls and
(Map p218; % 0361-730436; www.mamasanbali. vintage-style furniture, this cavernous cafe
com; Jl Raya Kerobokan 135; mains 90,000- is typical of what’s going on in Seminyak. A
200,000Rp; h noon-3pm & 6.30-11pm; aW ) One popular brunch spot, it does great coffee, big
of Seminyak’s most esteemed restaurants, breakfasts, homemade sausage rolls and sir-
this stylish warehouse-sized space is split into loin steak sandwiches. There’s also a small
levels, with photographs hanging from ex- shady courtyard and a more relaxed, breezy
posed brick walls. The menu has an empha- upstairs dining area.
sis on creative dishes from across Southeast
Asia. A long cocktail list provides liquid balm Ultimo ITALIAN $$
for the mojito set and has lots of tropical- (Map p218; % 0361-738720; www.balinesia.co.id; Jl
flavoured pours. Kayu Aya 104; meals 40,000-210,000Rp; h 5pm-
1am) This vast and always popular restaurant
oMotel Mexicola MEXICAN $$ thrives in a part of Seminyak that’s as thick
(Map p218; % 0361-736688; www.motelmexico as a good risotto with eateries. Choose a table
labali.com; Jl Kayu Jati 9; tacos 30,000Rp, mains from overlooking the street action, out the back
222
in one of the gardens or inside. Ponder the Gusto Gelato & Coffee GELATERIA $
surprisingly authentic menu and then let the (Map p218; % 0361-552 2190; www.gusto-gelateria.
army of servers take charge. com; Jl Raya Mertanadi 46; gelato from 22,000Rp;
h 10am-10pm; aW ) Bali’s best gelato is made
Sisterfields CAFE $$
fresh throughout the day, with unique fla-
(Map p218; % 0811 386 0507; www.sisterfieldsbali. vours such as avocado choc-chip, dragonfruit,
com; Jl Kayu Cendana 7; mains from 60,000Rp; and kamangi (lemon basil). The classics are
h 7am-5pm; aW ) Trendy Sisterfields does all here, too.
classic brekkies such as smashed avocado, and
more inventive dishes such as truffled oyster Warung Sulawesi INDONESIAN $
mushrooms with duck eggs and crispy pig (Map p218; Jl Petitenget; meals from 30,000Rp;
ears. There are also hipster faves like pulled- h 10am-6pm) Find a table in this quiet family
pork rolls and lobster sliders. Grab a seat at compound and enjoy fresh Balinese and In-
Ba li S
a booth, the counter or in the rear courtyard. donesian food served in classic warung style.
Choose a rice, then pick from a captivating
Fat Gajah
E at
ASIAN $$
array of dishes that are always at their peak
em
outh
(Map p218; % 0361-868 8212; www.fatgajah.com; at noon. The long beans are yum!
iing
the dumplings, prepared with mostly organ- (Map p218; % 0361-473 8922; Jl Batubelig 11; mains
ic ingredients. They come fried or steamed 37,000-90,000Rp; h 11am-11.30pm; W ) Set in
with innovate fillings such as beef rendang, a sort of bungalow-style brick courtyard,
black-pepper crab, kimchi tuna or lemongrass this old-fashioned restaurant excels at fresh
lamb. Balinese seafood with an Italian accent (lots
of garlic!).
Ginger Moon ASIAN $$
(Map p218; % 0361-734533; www.gingermoon oBiku FUSION $$
bali.com; Jl Kayu Aya 7; mains 70,000-160,000Rp; (Map p218; % 0361-857 0888; www.bikubali.com; Jl
h 11am-midnight; aW ) Australian Dean Ked- Petitenget 888; meals 40,000-120,000Rp; h 8am-
dell is one of scores of young chefs lured to 11pm; W ) Housed in a 150-year-old teak joglo
Bali to set up restaurants. His creation is a (traditional Javanese house), hugely popular
very appealing, airy space, with carved wood Biku retains the timeless vibe of its prede-
and palms. The menu features a ‘Best of’ list cessor. The menu combines Indonesian and
of favourites, served in portions designed for other Asian with Western influences; book
sharing and grazing. for lunch or dinner. It’s also popular for high
tea (from 11am to 5pm; 220,000Rp for two
5 Kerobokan people), served Asian-style – with samosa,
spring rolls etc, and green or oolong tea – or
oNook ASIAN $ traditional – with cucumber sandwiches etc.
(Map p226; % 0813 3806 0060; Jl Umalas I; mains
from 35,000Rp; h 8am-11pm; W ) Sublimely po- oWatercress CAFE $$
sitioned among the rice fields, this casual, (Map p218; % 0851 0280 8030; www.watercress
open-air cafe is popular for its creative takes bali.com; Jl Batubelig 21A; mains from 65,000Rp;
on Asian fare. It’s got a modern vibe mixed h 7.30am-11pm; W ) A hit with the Bondi hip-
with tropical flavours. Good breakfasts and ster set, this leafy roadside cafe does a roaring
lunchtime sandwiches. trade. As well as hearty breakfasts and gour-
met burgers, it prides itself upon the healthy
Warung Eny BALINESE $
mains and salads. Excellent coffee, beer on
(Map p218; % 0361-473 6892; Jl Petitenget; mains tap and cocktails are other reasons to stop by.
from 35,000Rp; h 8am-11pm) The eponymous
Eny cooks everything herself at this tiny Saigon Street VIETNAMESE $$
open-front warung nearly hidden behind (Map p218; % 0361-897 4007; www.saigonstreet
various potted plants. Look for the road- bali.com; Jl Petitenget 77; mains 50,000-175,000Rp;
side sign that captures the vibe: ‘The love h 11.30am-11pm; W ) Modern, vibrant and
cooking’. The seafood, such as large prawns buzzing, this new Vietnamese restaurant
smothered in garlic, is delicious and most lures in punters with its swanky neon decor.
ingredients are organic. Ask about Eny’s fun Creative Vietnamese dishes include peppery
cooking classes. betel leaves filled with slow-cooked octopus,
22 3
Ba li S
stretch of sand that fronts ‘villa-land’ just inland.
Batu Bolong Beach (Map p226) The pantai (beach) at Batu Bolong boasts the large
D em
outh
r i nk
Pura Batumejan complex, which has a striking pagoda-like temple. There are surfboard
i nyak
rentals (100,000Rp per day) and impromptu lessons available, and some groovy cafes.
i ng
About 200m further on there’s a slightly upscale beach vendor with comfy loungers for
B al&&i NKierobokan
rent and drinks for sale.
Echo Beach (Pantai Batu Mejan; Map p226) Surfers, and those who watch them, flock
here for the high-tide left-hander that regularly tops 2m. The greyish sand right in front
ghtl i fe
of the developments can vanish at high tide, but you’ll find wide strands both east and
west. Batu Bolong beach is 500m east.
Pererenan Beach (Map p226) For the moment, this laid-back northerly surf beach com-
prises only a few guesthouses and beach bars overlooking its dark tanned sands. It’s an
easy 300m walk from Echo Beach across sand and rock formations (or about 1km by
road).
off the sand or follow a long drive off Jl Pe- al lively LGBT venues along this strip. Drag
titenget and you’ll find much to amuse, from queens and go-go dancers rock the house
an enticing pool to a swanky restaurant, plus nightly.
hopp
outh
cigars at the bar or dine on eclectic fare at (Map p218; % 0361-736763; www.luluyasmine.com;
tables. The music throbs with increasing in- Jl Kayu Aya; h 9am-10pm) Designer Luiza Chang
tensity through the night. gets inspiration from her worldwide travels
for her elegant line of women’s clothes.
22 5
Biasa CLOTHING counter-culture themes. There are also a few
(Map p218; % 0361-730308; www.biasabali.com; women’s tank tops.
Jl Raya Seminyak 36; h 9am-9pm) This is Bali-
based designer Susanna Perini’s premier Periplus Bookshop BOOKS
shop. Her line of elegant tropical wear for (Map p218; % 0361-736851; Jl Kayu Aya, Seminyak
men and women combines cottons, silks and Sq; h 8am-10pm) A large outlet of the island-
embroidery. The outlet store is at Jl Basang- wide chain of lavishly fitted bookshops. In
kasa 47. addition to design books numerous enough
to have you fitting out even your garage with
Paul Ropp CLOTHING ‘Bali Style’, it stocks bestsellers, magazines and
(Map p218; % 0361-735613; www.paulropp.com; Jl newspapers.
Kayu Aya; h 9am-9pm) The main shop of one
of Bali’s premier high-end fashion designers 88 Information
Ba li C
for men and women. Most goods are made Seminyak is generally more hassle-free than
in the hills above Denpasar. And what goods nearby Kuta and Legian. But it’s worth reading
S outh
Informat
they are: rich silks and cottons, vivid to the up on the warnings (p215), especially surf and
angguB al
point of gaudy, with hints of Ropp’s roots in water pollution, which also apply here.
the tie-dyed 1960s.
Blue Glue 88 Getting There & Around
&i on
CLOTHING
Metered taxis are easily hailed. A trip to Sem-
Ai round
(Map p218; % 0361-731130; www.blue-glue.com; Jl
Raya Seminyak 16E; h 9am-9pm) ‘The dream bi- inyak from the airport with the airport taxi cartel
kini of all women’ is the motto of this famous costs about 120,000Rp; to the airport, about
brand that makes a big statement with its 50,000Rp.
tiny wear. The swimwear is French designed Taxis from the airport to Kerobokan will cost at
and made right in Bali. There’s also an out- least 150,000Rp. In either direction at rush hour
let (Map p218; Jl Basangkasa; h 9am-8pm), with the trip may verge on an hour. Note also that Jl
Raya Kerobokan can come to a fume-filled stop
prices as small as its bikinis.
for extended periods.
Lucy’s Batik TEXTILES, CLOTHING You can beat the traffic, save the ozone and have
(Map p218; % 085100951275; www.lucysbatikbali. a good stroll by walking along the beach; Legian is
com; Jl Raya Basangkasa 88; h 9.30am-9pm) only about 15 minutes away from Seminyak.
Great for both men and women, Lucy’s is a
good spot to shop for the finest batik. Shirts,
dresses, sarongs and bags are mostly hand- Canggu & Around
woven or hand-painted. It also sells material The Canggu region, north and west from
by the metre. Kerobokan, is Bali’s hippest and fastest-
growing area. Much of the growth is centred
This Is A Love Song CLOTHING
along the coast, anchored by the endless
(TIALS; Map p218; www.thisisalovesong.com; Jl Kayu
swathes of beach, which, despite rampant
Aya 3; h 10am-10pm) One for Gen-Y fashion-
development, remains fairly uncrowded and
istas, this quirky streetwear label born out
rice fields abound (for the moment).
of Bali has clothed stars from Miley Cyrus to
In addition to long-term expats in their
Katy Perry.
cloistered villas, Canggu lures a new genera-
Samsara CLOTHING tion of trendy, youthful and entrepreneurial
(Map p218; www.samsaraboutique.com; Jl Raya expats who whisk past stooped rice farmers
Seminyak; h 10am-10pm) True Balinese-made on their motorbikes. As well as surfers, it
textiles are increasingly rare as production attracts a demographic of traveller looking
moves to Java and other places with cheaper for a more laid-back alternative to the mass
labour. But the local family behind this tidy tourism Kuta–Seminyak. In the Canggu area
shop still sources hand-painted Batik for a it’s all about relaxed beach bars, yoga, organic
range of exquisite casual wear. produce and good coffee.
One of Bali’s most popular surf breaks,
Duzty CLOTHING Echo Beach has reached critical mass in popu-
(Map p218; Jl Raya Seminyak 67; h 9am-10pm) larity; it’s quite the scene, with tourists, expats
In an industry dominated by foreigners, and locals all coming down to wet their feet at
it’s refreshing to see a local label. T-shirts the often spectacular sunsets.
here are designed by a young Balinese lad,
Rahsun. They feature edgy rock-and-roll and
66
226
e n tai
an
66 ej a
n
r
Pa
M
re at
ú 19 Jl Pantai
tu
Pe
Jl
# m
Se
Ba
1 # 13
ÿ t ur Batu Bolong 1
nt Ca # ú 20
ai
Jl Raya Pa nta
wa
ya
Ù
# û
#
Pa ú
# 26
ak
Ra
Bera
6 Jl 18
n
ub
elaya
# ÿ
ÿ #
Jl
# 12
ÿ Jl S 10 8 23 CANGGU
antai
4Ù
#ú# 17
Ber ntai
ü
#
Jl N
a
11 ÿ
aw
#
Jl Raya P
# 15
ÿ 21 ú
#
Jl P
i Be
25 û
#
1Ù
#
raw
Ù
#5 # 14
ÿ
Ba li C
a
2 7Ù
# 2
16
S leep
4444
#
ÿ 9ÿ
#
outh
anggu
66
3Ù
# 24 la s
ma
û
# Jl Uú
# 22
i ng
4444
B al
4444
Kerobokan
66
3 ge t 3
Jl Raya
en
tit
Jl P e
A
4444
44 B C D
æ Sights 4444
Canggu & Echo Beach
44
1 Batu Bolong Beach ................................. A2
ú Eating
17 Beach House ............................................ A1
2 Batubelig Beach ...................................... C3 18 Betelnut Cafe ........................................... B1
3 Berawa Beach ......................................... B2 Crate ................................................(see 18)
4 Echo Beach ............................................... A1 19 Deus Ex Machina ..................................... B1
5 Nelayan Beach ........................................ B2 20 El Jefe Jose Cubanos .............................. B1
6 Pererenan Beach ..................................... A1 21 Green Ginger ............................................C2
7 Prancak Beach ........................................ B2 22 Nook ..........................................................D2
Ba li C
Raya Pantai Berawa; r incl breakfast from 875,000Rp; com; Jl Pantai Pererenan; r 500,000Rp; aWs )
aWs ) Both intimate and stylish, Sedasa
Just behind Pererenan Beach, this popular
has an understated Balinese elegance that
S at
E
guesthouse has 14 rooms with terraces and
outh
anggu
gives it a distinct Ubud-like feel. Large rooms balconies, all set in a newish two-storey build-
i ng B al
overlook a small pool, and have designer fur- ing that boasts a rooftop infinity pool and a
niture and travel photography on the walls. restaurant with sensational sea views.
& Ai round
The beanbags on the rooftop make a good
place to relax with a book. Downstairs there’s FRii Bali Echo Beach HOTEL $$
an organic cafe with an open kitchen and (Map p226; % 0361-846 9178; www.friihotels.com;
cooking classes. Jl Munduk Catu 32; r from 900,000Rp; aiWs )
Aspiring to appeal to the typical young, hip
Coconuts Guesthouse travellers that come to Canggu, this chain ho-
Canggu GUESTHOUSE $$
tel feels a bit contrived in its delivery. Modern
(Map p226; % 0878 6192 7150; www.coconutsguest rooms have brick walls with chic-industrial
house.com; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; r from 650,000Rp; trimmings and balconies. The bottom-level
aWs ) The five breezy rooms at this con-
rooms literally open up to the pool. Head up
temporary guesthouse are very comfortable. to its rooftop deck for food, a bar and a yoga
Some have lovely views of the (surviving) space. Free shuttle to Seminyak.
rice fields, and all have fridges and a relaxed
motif. Enjoy sunsets from the rooftop lounge
area or take a dip in the 10m pool. Batu Bo-
5 Eating
long Beach is a 700m walk.
5 Canggu
oHotel Tugu Bali HOTEL $$$
Betelnut Cafe CAFE $
(Map p226; % 0361-473 1701; www.tuguhotels.com;
(Map p226; % 0821 4680 7233; Jl Pantai Batu Bo-
Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; r incl breakfast from US$400;
long; mains from 45,000Rp; h 7am-10pm; aW )
aiWs ) Right at Batu Bolong Beach, this
There’s a hippy-chic vibe at this thatched cafe
exquisite hotel blurs the boundaries between
with a mellow open-air dining room upstairs.
accommodation and a museum-gallery, es-
The menu leans towards healthy, but not too
pecially the Walter Spies and Le Mayeur Pa-
healthy – you can get fries. There are juic-
vilions, where memorabilia from the artists’
es and lots of mains featuring vegies. Good
lives decorates the rooms. There’s a spa and
baked goods, nice shakes.
customised dining options.
Crate CAFE $
Desa Seni HOTEL $$$
(Map p226; www.facebook.com/cratecafebali; Jl Pan-
(Map p226; % 0361-844 6392; www.desaseni.com;
tai Batu Bolong 64; coffee 20,000Rp, breakfast from
Jl Subak Sari 13; s/d incl breakfast from US$135/210;
35,000Rp; h 7am-3pm; W ) Set up inside a con-
aiWs ) This place has been described as
crete bunker, this cafe is popular with Canggu
being like a hippy Four Seasons, and that’s
scenesters who come here for coffee, avocado
not far from the truth. The 10 classic wooden
on sourdough or a bowl of Fruit Loops.
homes, up to two centuries old, were brought
to the site from across Indonesia and turned Green Ginger ASIAN, VEGETARIAN $
into luxurious quarters. Guests enjoy a menu (Map p226; % 0878 6211 2729; Jl Pantai Berawa;
of organic and healthy cuisine plus yoga meals from 40,000Rp; h 8am-9pm; Wv ) An at-
courses. tractive little restaurant on the fast-changing
strip in Canggu, Green Ginger specialises in
228
fresh and tasty vegetarian and noodle dishes oHungry Bird CAFE
from across Asia. (Map p226; www.hungrybirdcoffee.com; Jl Raya
Semat 86; h 8am-5pm; W ) One of the few gen-
El Jefe Jose Cubanos SANDWICHES $$
uine third-wave coffee roasters in Bali, Hun-
(Map p226; www.facebook.com/eljefejosecanggu; cnr
gry Bird does superb single-origin brews.
Jl Batu Bolong & Jl Nelayan; sandwiches 65,000Rp;
The Javanese owner is incredibly knowledge-
h noon-midnight) At the ‘Junction’ leading into
able on the subject, and roasts beans on-site
Canggu’s most happening strip, this roadside
from all over Indonesia; cupping sessions are
shack serves up Cuban sandwiches filled with
possible if you call ahead. The food’s also ex-
house-smoked pork, chicken or tempeh. It
cellent and perfect for brunch.
shares space with a tropical dive bar run by
an Aussie larrikin and is frequented by a cast La Laguna BAR
of colourful characters. (Map p226; % 0361-474 1214; Jl Pantai Kayu Putih,
Ba li C
Ba li B
famous surf breaks run all the way south to Jl Karang Mas Sejahtera, Ayana Resort; h 4pm-1am;
the important temple of Ulu Watu. W ) Star of a thousand glossy articles written
S iouth
The east coast of Nusa Dua generally at- about Bali, this bar perched 14m above the
uk
ghts
tracts a more well-heeled crowd to its five- crashing Indian Ocean is very popular. In
i t PBen
star resorts and manicured beaches. fact, at sunset the wait to ride the lift down to
the bar can top one hour.
&al
Ai ict
Jimbaran
nsula
88 Getting There & Away
i v i t i es
Just south of Kuta and the airport, Teluk Jim- Plenty of taxis wait around the beachfront
baran (Jimbaran Bay) is an alluring crescent warungs in the evening to take diners home
of white-sand beach and blue sea, fronted by (about 100,000Rp to Seminyak). Some of the
a long string of seafood warungs and ending seafood warungs provide free transport if you
at the southern end in a bushy headland. call first; look them up online.
66
Balangan Beach & Ulu Watu e
# 00 2 km
44
1 mile
A B C D
û 21
#
4444
444
Jimbaran
D
Ù
# (2km)
1 ÿ#8 1
13 ÿ
#
66
6
66
#
Þ5
Teluk Kuta Bukit
44
Peninsula
Jl
Pantai
u
B alanga
Wat
Impossibles Ù#3 n
Cenggiling
4444 444 44
#
\
ç
# ÿ #ÿ #ÿ
9 # 10 Pecatu
lu
#
ÿ 14 11
Jl U
6 4Ù
# # ú 18 Indah 1 1
66
6
66
19 15
# 17 #
Ba li B
ç #
ÿ Jl Pantai
1 1
úú# #
ú 16
4444444
# 1 1
2 û Bingin 1 1 2
# 20
Ulu Watu Ù Jl Labuan J
S outh
G
Sait M
l
ela
uk
etti ti ng
D
44
12
sti
Ungasan
la
#
ÿ
Jl Masu
(1.5km) #
\
PBen
Jl Pantai
al
Suluban
T ihere
444
1 #
\ Pecatu
insula
Pura Luhur #
Þ
Ulu Watu
3 3
444 44
& Away
Finns
INDIAN OCEAN Beach
Club
#7
ÿ Ø
#
44
444
A B C D
Ba li B
Numerous places to stay are scattered along
especially go off, attracting folk from up and
and near the cliffs. All have at least simple
down the coast.
cafes.
S leep
outh
uk i t iPng
Chocky’s Place GUESTHOUSE $ Padang Padang
(% 0818 0530 7105; www.chockysplace.com; Bingin
Slight in size but not in perfection, Padang
Ben
Beach; s/d from 100,000/200,000Rp; W ) Down
al&i insula
Padang Beach is a cute little cove. As well as
the bottom of the stairs on Bingin Beach,
having great surf, its popularity has surged
E at i ng
this classic surfer hang-out has cosy rooms
since appearing in Eat, Pray, Love, the film
varying from charming with awesome views
based on the bestselling book by Elizabeth
to rudimentary with shared bathrooms. Its
Gilbert. The Saturday-night beach parties
bamboo restaurant looks out to the beach;
here are legendary. The beach is a short walk
it’s a great place to meet fellow travellers over
through a temple and down a well-paved
a few cold ones.
trail.
Bingin Garden GUESTHOUSE $ If you’re feeling adventurous, you can en-
(% 0816 472 2002; tommybarrell76@yahoo. joy a much longer stretch of nearly deserted
com; off Jl Pantai Bingin; r with fan/air-con white sand that begins on the west side of the
300,000/400,000Rp; aWs ) There’s a relaxed river. Ask locals how to get there.
hacienda feel to Bingin Garden, where six
bungalow-style rooms are set among an arid 4 Sleeping & Eating
garden and a large pool. It’s back off the cliffs Bali Rocks GUESTHOUSE $
and about 300m from the path down to the (% 0817 344788; www.facebook.com/balirocks
beach. It’s run by gun local surfer Tommy padang; r 200,000Rp) Down the cliff face, this
Barrell and his lovely wife. thatched bit of wonder has dead-simple
rooms with stunning views of the surf breaks
oTemple Lodge BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
and the ocean. Showers and toilets are down
(% 0857 3901 1572; www.thetemplelodge.com; off a couple of flights of stairs from the rooms. At
Jl Pantai Bingin; r incl breakfast US$80-230; Ws ) high tide you can jump directly into the water.
‘Artsy and beautiful’ just begins to describe
this collection of huts and cottages made oLe Sabot BUNGALOW $$
from thatch, driftwood and other natural ma- (% 0812 3768 0414; www.lesabotbali.com; r from
terials. Each sits on a jutting shelf on the cliffs 700,000Rp) Revel in a 1960s surfer fantasy on
above the surf breaks, and there are superb the Bukit cliffs at these open-plan bungalow-
views from the infinity pool and some of the style units. There’s hot water, electricity,
seven units. You can arrange for meals, and fridges, large beds and decks with some of
there are morning yoga classes. Bali’s finest views. Room 3 is the pick. Bunga-
lows are quite a slog down the cliff face.
Secret Garden GUESTHOUSE $$
(% 0816 474 7255; http://homepage3.nifty.com/ Buddha Soul CAFE $$
balisurf/secretgarden2.html; Bingin; r from (www.buddhasoul.com.au; Jl Labaunsait; breakfast
443,000Rp; W ) Tasteful and ultra laid-back, from 50,000Rp, mains 65,000-150,000Rp; h 7.30am-
this guesthouse has open-plan bamboo bun- 10pm; W ) This chilled-out roadside cafe has an
galows with futon beds, and a design that outdoor deck where you can enjoy healthy, or-
incorporates its natural environment. It’s run ganic meals such as grilled calamari, chicken
by a Japanese surfer-photographer who has salad and lentil burgers. Closer to the beach,
good knowledge of local waves. It’s at the top
2 32
the same team also runs Om Burger (% 0812- ple here. The complex was added to by Nirar-
391 3617; Jl Labuan Sait; burgers from 65,000Rp; tha, another Javanese priest who is known for
S outh
G
h 7am-10pm; W ), which has an excellent selec- the seafront temples at Tanah Lot, Rambut
uk
etti ti ng
150,000Rp and take an hour, depending on ple grounds at sunset (100,000Rp), when
traffic. traffic jams form during high season.
& Away
Ba li B
for a night out. Collection shopping centre, Block P; admission
70,000Rp; h 10am-6pm) When groups from the
88 Getting There & Away nearby resorts aren’t around, you’ll probably
S outh
G uk
etti ti ng
The best way to see the Ulu Watu region is with have this large museum to yourself. A collec-
your own wheels. Otherwise a taxi ride out here tion of art from Pacific Ocean cultures spans
several centuries and includes more than 600
PBen
will cost at least 200,000Rp from Seminyak and
take more than hour in the coagulated traffic.
al
paintings (don’t miss the tikis). The influen-
T ihere
tial wave of European artists who thrived in
insula
Ungasan & Around Bali in the early 20th century is well repre-
sented. Look for works by Arie Smit, Adrien-
& Away
If nearby Ulu Watu is all about celebrating Jean Le Mayeur de Merpres and Theo Meier.
surf culture, Ungasan is all about celebrating There are also works by Matisse and Gauguin.
oneself. From crossroads near this other-
wise nondescript village, roads radiate to the
south coast, where some of Bali’s most exclu-
4 Sleeping & Eating
Nusa Dua resorts are similar in several ways:
sive oceanside resorts can be found. With the
they are all big (some are huge) and almost
infinite turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean
every major international brand is repre-
rolling hypnotically in the distance, it’s hard
sented. Most are right on the placid beach.
not to think you’ve reached the end of the
If you’re considering a stay at Nusa Dua,
world, albeit a very comfortable end.
search for deals.
Bali’s southernmost beach can be found
at the end of a 3km-long road from Ungasan Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua
village. Newish concrete steps lead down the Beach Resort RESORT $$$
200m cliff to a sweet crescent of sand edging (% 0361-849 2888; www.sofitelbalinusadua.com; Jl
the pounding ocean. Nusa Dua; r from US$246; aiWs ) Making up
a part of the resort strip, the Sofitel has a vast
4 Sleeping pool that meanders past the 415 rooms, some
oAlila Villas Uluwatu RESORT $$$ of which have terraces with direct pool ac-
(% 0361-848 2166; www.alilahotels.com/ cess. The room blocks are huge; many rooms
uluwatu; Jl Belimbing Sari; r incl breakfast from have at least a glimpse of the water. The Sofi-
US$750; aiWs ) Visually stunning, this tel’s lavish Sunday brunch (11am to 3pm) is
vast resort has an artful contemporary style one of Bali’s best; it costs from 400,000Rp.
that is at once light and airy while still con-
St Regis Bali Resort RESORT $$$
veying a sense of luxury. The 85-unit Alila
(% 0361-847 8111; www.stregisbali.com; ste from
offers gracious service in a setting where the
US$600; aiWs ) This lavish Nusa Dua
blue of the ocean contrasts with the green of
resort leaves most of the others in the sand.
the surrounding (hotel-tended) rice fields. It’s
Every conceivable luxury is provided, from
2km off Jl Ulu Watu.
electronics to the furnishings, the marble and
the personal butler. Pools abound and units
Nusa Dua are huge. Go for the pool suite with ocean
Nusa Dua translates literally as ‘Two Islands’ – views if you want to relax in style.
although they are actually small raised head- Nusa Dua Beach Grill INTERNATIONAL $$
lands, each with a small temple. But Nusa (% 0851 0043 4779; Jl Pura Gegar; meals 65,000-
Dua is much better known as Bali’s gated 250,000Rp; h 8am-10.30pm) A good spot for
234
day trippers, this hidden, warm-hued cafe Rumah Bali GUESTHOUSE $$
is south of Gegar Beach and the huge Mulia (% 0361-771256; www.balifoods.com; off Jl Pratama;
resort. The drinks menu is long, the sea- r incl breakfast from US$110, villas from US$270;
food fresh and the atmosphere heavy with aiWs ) Rumah Bali is a luxurious inter-
assignations. pretation of a Balinese village by cookbook
author Heinz von Holzen, who also runs local
88 Getting There & Around restaurant Bumbu Bali. Guests choose from
The Bali Mandara Toll Road (car/motorcycle
large family rooms or individual villas (some
11,000/4000Rp) greatly speeds up journeys have three bedrooms) with their own plunge
between Nusa Dua and the airport and Sanur. pools and kitchens. In addition to a large
The fixed taxi fare from the airport is communal pool, there’s also a tennis court.
150,000Rp; a metered taxi to the airport will The beach is a short walk away.
Ba li S
bali-collection.com/shuttle-bus; h 9am-10pm)
connects Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa resort h noon-9pm) Long-time resident and cook-
hotels with the Bali Collection shopping centre in book author Heinz von Holzen, his wife Puji,
B al
Nusa Dua about every hour. and well-trained and enthusiastic staff serve
T here
You can walk the delightful beach promenade exquisitely flavoured dishes at this superb
i
that leads to Tanjung Benoa. restaurant. Many diners opt for one of sever-
al lavish set menus. Cooking classes on Mon-
& A round
village. It’s flat and lined with family-friendly (% 0361-771384; Jl Pratama; mains 80,000-
resort hotels, most of midrange calibre. By 180,000Rp; h 9am-10pm; W ) There’s nothing
day the waters buzz with the roar of dozens of whacko about this beachside hang-out. In-
motorised water-sports craft. It’s popular with stead it’s a laid-back, family-friendly spot.
domestic travellers, and group tours arrive by Spend the day lazing by the pool, in the res-
the busload for a day’s aquatic excitement, taurant, at the bar or on sunloungers looking
such as straddling a banana boat among out to the water. The menu offers burgers,
other thrills. grilled seafood, pizzas and Indonesian dishes.
Tanjung Benoa is a good base for budget
travellers wanting to utilise Nusa Dua’s 88 Getting There & Around
beaches. Taxis from the airport cost 150,000Rp. A free
shuttle bus (% 0361-771662; www.bali-collection.
1 Sights com/shuttle-bus; h 9am-10pm) connects Nusa
Amble the narrow lanes of the peninsula’s Dua and Tanjung Benoa resort hotels with Nusa
tip for a multicultural feast. Within 100m Dua’s Bali Collection shopping centre. You can
stroll the beach promenade along to Nusa Dua.
of each other you’ll find a brightly colour-
ed Chinese Buddhist temple, a domed
mosque and a Hindu temple with a nicely
carved triple entrance. Sanur
% 0361
4444444
A B
gan, has hotel entrances and oodles of tourist Bali Orchid
D
Garden (1.9km)
shops, restaurants and cafes. Rocky Fast
666
6
66
Cruises
4444444
US Consulate
1 Sights 1 (1.4km);
Denpasar Scoot
Perama
Public Boats 1
4444444
D Fast Boat
Jl Han g Tuah
cafes with tables on the sand will give you # 6 Departures
ÿ
plenty of reason to pause and enjoy the views. # f # for Nusa
Jl Danau Museum Le â Lembongan
666
Sanur is also a good base for taking in Mayeur 1
4444444
Bratan & the Gili
nearby Denpasar’s museums and galleries. Islands
Ba li S ianur
oMuseum Le Mayeur MUSEUM 2 2
4444444
(% 0361-286201; Jl Hang Tuah; adult/child
20,000/10,000Rp; h 8am-3.30pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-
outh
ghts B al i
12.30pm Fri) Artist Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur de
666
4444444
Merpres (1880–1958) arrived in Bali in 1932,
and married the beautiful Legong dancer Ni
Polok three years later, when she was just 15.
Jl Danau
Buyan
Jl Segara Ay u
4444444
#
ú
They lived in this compound back when Sa- 15 û
# 9
Jl Danau Tondano
nur was still a quiet fishing village. After the 3 Jl Pantai Sindhu 3
66
artist’s death, Ni Polok lived in the house until
4444444
Sanu
she died in 1985. Despite security (some of Le 8ÿ
#
5
Mayeur’s paintings have sold for US$150,000)
r Beac
ÿ
#
and conservation problems, almost 90 of Le
4444444 Jl D
#
þ
Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass
h
Mayeur’s paintings are displayed.
ana u
17 ÿ
#
The house is an interesting example of 7
Balinese-style architecture. Notice the beau- Tambl
4444444
tifully carved window shutters that recount 4 4
ingan
4444444
Balinese interior of woven fibres. # 16
þ
2 Activities
Sanur’s calm waters and steady breezes make
it a natural centre for windsurfing and kite-4444444
Walk nt
3p
4444444
surfing. Sanur’s fickle surf breaks (tide condi- 5 # 5
fro
Beach
4444444
Reef, a right break in front of Inna Grand Bali irt
g an
a
Beach Hotel, and Hyatt Reef, in front of, you 14
na
blin
ú
#
4444444
u Tam
6 6
Beachfront Walk, Sanur Beach Hotel; lessons from
Da
4444444
Kuta
Jl
4444444
n au #4
Jl Da
ÿ
The season runs from June to October. Rip Jl K
es
Curl also rents boards for windsurfing and um
as
stand-up paddle boarding (SUP; including ar
4444444
i
ra Selat
yoga SUP for 300,000Rp per hour). J l Ce m a Badung
7 7
2
#
4444444
D Rip Curl School of Surf (300m);
Power of Now Oasis (350m)
A B
2 36
Sanur
æ Top Sights 11 Manik Organik..........................................B5
1 Museum Le Mayeur................................ B2 12 Massimo ...................................................A6
Minami .............................................. (see 9)
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 13 Three Monkeys Cafe...............................B4
2 Balinese Cooking Class...........................A7 Warung Little Bird ........................... (see 8)
3 Crystal Divers.......................................... B5 14 Warung Pantai Indah ..............................B6
ú Eating
9 Byrdhouse Beach Club .......................... B3
10 Char Ming................................................. A6
B al i
lows are beautifully decorated with crafts and (% 0361-288942; www.massimobali.com; Jl Danau
antiques. The gracious staff are a delight. Free Tamblingan 206; meals 80,000-200,000Rp; h 11am-
Balinese dance classes (Wednesdays at 3pm) 11pm) The interior is like an open-air Milan
are taught by one of Bali’s best dancers. cafe; the outside is like a Balinese garden –
it’s a combo that goes together like spaghet-
5 Eating & Drinking ti and meatballs. Pasta, pizza and more are
prepared with authentic Italian flair. No time
Although there are plenty of uninspiring
for a meal? Nab some gelato from the counter
places on Jl Danau Tamblingan, there are
up the front.
Ba li S
also some gems.
Many of Sanur’s drinking establishments Manik Organik HEALTH FOOD $$
cater to retired expats and are, thankfully, (% 0821 4416 8228; www.manikorganikbali.com;
E at
anur
outh
air-conditioned. Jl Danau Tamblingan 85; meals from 55,000Rp;
i ng B&al
h 9am-11pm; v ) S Trees shade the serene
5 Beachfront terrace at this creative and healthful cafe that
smells of lemongrass. Vegetarians and raw-
D ir i nk i ng
The beach path has restaurants, cafes and food enthusiasts are well cared for, but there
bars where you can catch a meal, a drink or are also meaty dishes made with free-range
a sea breeze. chicken and the like. Smoothies include the
Warung Pantai Indah CAFE $$ fortifying ‘immune tonic’.
(Beachfront Walk; mains 30,000-110,000Rp; h 9am-
Char Ming ASIAN $$
9pm) Sit at battered tables and chairs with
(% 0361-288029; www.charming-bali.com; Jl Danau
your toes in the sand at this timeless beach Tamblingan 97; meals 100,000-200,000Rp; h 5-
cafe. It specialises in fresh barbecue-grilled 11pm) Asian fusion with a French accent.
seafood and cheap local dishes. A daily menu board lists the fresh seafood
Minami JAPANESE $$ available for grilling. Look for regional
(% 0812 8613 4471; Beachfront Walk; mains from dishes, many with modern flair. The highly
56,000Rp; h 10am-11pm) With its minimalist stylised location features lush plantings and
white decor, bright open-air atmosphere and carved-wood details from vintage Javanese
a vast range of ultrafresh fish, this authen- and Balinese structures.
tic Japanese place is a great find on Sanur Three Monkeys Cafe ASIAN $$
Beach. (% 0361-286002; www.threemonkeyscafebali.com;
Byrdhouse Beach Club INTERNATIONAL $$ Jl Danau Tamblingan; meals 62,000-200,000Rp;
(% 0361-288407; Segara Village; mains from h 11am-11pm; W ) This branch of the splendid
60,000Rp; h 6am-midnight; W ) With loungers, Ubud original is no mere knock-off. The crea-
a swimming pool, a restaurant and bar, wi- tive menu has homemade pastas, wood-oven
fi and table tennis on-site, one could happily lamb rack and pan-Asian creations. Healthy
spend the entire day here by the beach. salads and juices are also recommended.
Check the club’s Facebook page for upcoming Kalimantan BAR
events, including outdoor-cinema screenings (Borneo Bob’s; % 0361-289291; Jl Pantai Sindhu 11;
and street-food stalls. mains from 40,000Rp; h 7.30am-11pm) This veter-
an boozer has an old South Pacific thatched
5 Jalan Danau Tamblingan charm and is one of several casual bars on this
Warung Little Bird INDONESIAN $
street. Enjoy cheap drinks under the palms in
(% 0361-745 4968; Jl Danau Tamblingan 34; mains the large, shady garden. The Mexican-style
from 25,000Rp; h 10am-10pm) The charming food features homegrown chilli peppers.
Little Bird does tasty Indonesian dishes in-
cluding beef rendang (coconut curry), and 7 Shopping
Balinese specialities such as ayam betutu Sanur is no shopping haven like Seminyak,
(slow-cooked chicken stuffed with Balinese but a few designers from there are opening
spices), which you’ll need to reserve in ad- branches here.
238
A-Krea CLOTHING Bemos go up and down Jl Danau Tamblingan
(% 0361-286101; Jl Danau Tamblingan 51; h 9am- and Jl Danau Poso for 5000Rp, offering a greener
9pm) An excellent spot for souvenirs, A-Krea way to shuttle about the strip than a taxi.
has a range of items designed and made in
Bali in its attractive store. Clothes, accesso-
ries, homewares and more are all handmade. Denpasar
% 0361
Ganesha Bookshop BOOKS
Sprawling, hectic and ever-growing, Bali’s
(www.ganeshabooksbali.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan capital has been the focus of a lot of the is-
42; h 8am-9pm) A branch of Bali’s best book- land’s growth and wealth over the last five
shop for serious readers. decades. It can seem a daunting and chaotic
place, but spend a little time on its tree-lined
88 Information streets in the relatively affluent government
Ba li D
There are numerous ATMs and banks along Jl and business district of Renon and you’ll dis-
Danau Tamblingan. cover a more genteel side.
S outh
Informat
88 Getting There & Away but it’s as much a part of ‘the real Bali’ as the
rice paddies and clifftop temples. This is the
BEMO
B ali on
Ba li D
at the Taman Wedhi Budaya arts centre, is an draws in the masses for lunch daily.
easy way to see a wide variety of tradition-
al dance, music and crafts. The productions 7 Shopping
FS est
outh
enpasar
of the Ramayana and Mahabharata ballets
are grand, and the opening ceremony and oPasar Badung MARKET
i vals
parade in Denpasar are spectacles. Tickets (Jl Gajah Mada; h 6am-5pm) Bali’s largest food
B al &
are usually available before performances; market is busy in the mornings and evenings;
schedules are available online and at the it’s a great place to browse and bargain. You’ll
i E v ents
Denpasar tourist office. find produce and food from all over the is-
land. Allow yourself to get lost here and revel
4 Sleeping in the range of fruits and spices on offer. The
shops lining the side streets of the market are
Spending a night in Denpasar will appeal to famous for textiles.
those seeking a more localised cultural expe- Sadly, a fire ripped through the market
rience outside the tourist areas. in early 2016 as this guidebook was going to
oNakula Familiar Inn GUESTHOUSE $
press and it was unclear if/when it would be
(% 0361-226446; www.nakulafamiliarinn.com; Jl rebuilt.
Nakula 4; s with fan/air-con 175,000/225,000Rp,
d 200,000/250,000Rp; aW ) The eight rooms 88 Information
at this sprightly urban family compound, a All major Indonesian banks have offices in Den-
longtime traveller favourite, are clean and pasar, and most have ATMs. Several are on Jl
have small balconies. There is a nice court- Gajah Mada, near the corner of Jl Arjuna.
yard and cafe in the middle. Tegal–Kereneng Main Post Office (% 0361-223565; Jl Raya
bemos go along Jl Nakula. Puptuan; h 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat)
Your best option for unusual postal needs. Has
5 Eating & Drinking a photocopy centre and ATMs.
RSUP Sanglah Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum
Denpasar has the island’s best range of Indo-
Propinsi Sanglah; % 0361-227911; www.sanglah
nesian and Balinese food. Savvy locals and ex- hospitalbali.com; Jl Diponegoro; h 24hr) The
pats each have their own favourite warungs city’s general hospital has English-speaking staff
and restaurants. and an ER. It’s the best hospital on the island,
although standards are not the same as those
oCafé Teduh INDONESIAN $ in developed countries. It has a special wing for
(% 0361-221631; off Jl Diponegoro; mains 12,000- well-insured foreigners, Paviliun Amerta Wing
23,000Rp; h 10am-10pm; W ) An oasis hidden International (% 0361-740 5474, 0361-257477).
down a tiny lane, with hanging orchids, trees,
flowers and ponds with fountains. Try ayam 88 Getting There & Away
dabu-dabu (grilled chicken with chilli paste,
Denpasar is a hub of public transport in Bali.
tomatoes, shallots, lemongrass and spices) or You’ll find buses and minibuses bound for all
nasi bakar cumi hitam (rice and marinated corners of the island.
squid wrapped in banana leaf and grilled).
BEMO
Cak Asmo INDONESIAN $
With most locals now preferring to travel by
(Jl Tukad Gangga; meals from 15,000Rp; h 9.30am- motorbike, note that the bemo network is splut-
10.30pm) Join the government workers and tering. The total lack of schedules, and long
students from the nearby university for su- waiting times, mean it’s generally not suitable for
perb dishes cooked to order in the bustling tourists.
24 0
Denpasar
A B C D
Ubung Bus
D
& Bemo Terminal
(1.5km)
Wangaya
1 Bemo
Terminal
i
Jl Setiabud
#
› Jl Pattimura
o
Jl Kartini
Jl Sutom
Jl Nakula #7
ú
ÿ
# Jl Kedondong
Jl Werkuda 4
Jl Veteran
ra
Jl Belimbing
Ba li D
Jl Sahe
Jl Plawa
dawa
Jl K
2 Gunung Agung
Bemo Terminal
Jl Melati
am
S outh
G
(250m) Jl Karna
a
enpasar
ett i ng
Jl Durian
b
Jl Arjun
oja
66
Jl Gajah Kereneng
M ada
B al
Jl Gajah Bemo ›#
rin
Mada
atra
Terminal
T here
þ8
#
Jl Tham
3Þ
#
i
Jl Udayana
Jl Surapati
Jl Sum
#2
â
3
Museum Jl Sugianyar
66 66
& Away
Jl Hasanudin
Negeri
l
J l Kapten Ag u ng
onjo
Propinsi
Bali
B
am
Jl Im
# Tegal Bemo
›
Terminal
Jl Diponeg
6666
Jl Udayana
Jl Jayagiri
oro
n
ga
an
mb
666
66
ka
usa
Jl Ki Hajar Dewantara
Jl N
5
Letda Tantular
ú
#5
666
Jl Teuku Umar
# RENON
State
Railway
Company
Australian
Consulate
í
#
SANGLAH
Jl Diponegoro
6
D
RSUP Sanglah
Nasi Uduk
Jl Tukad Gangga
Hospital
(1.2km) î
#
î
# 6ú
#
Paviliun Jl Nias
J l Pula Amerta Wing
u Ka n rata
International
7
D
Ba li D
Su
2 nal 12km northwest in Mengwi.
S outh
G
DESTINATION FARE (RP)
enpasar
ett i ng
Gilimanuk (for the 30,000
ferry to Java)
B al
Mengwi bus terminal 15,000
T here
Jl Hayam Wuruk Munduk 22,000
i
Singaraja (via Pupuan 25,000
3
or Bedugul)
& Away
Batubulan
KEDATON
Located a very inconvenient 6km northeast of
Denpasar on a road to Ubud, the Batubulan Bus
& Bemo Terminal is for destinations in eastern
and central Bali.
4 DESTINATION FARE (RP)
Jl Badak Agung
Jl Dewi Madri
Amlapura 25,000
Jl Drupadi
66
Sanur 7000
Ubud 13,000
Jl Cok Agung Tresna
Jl Dr Kusumah Atmaja
Jl Panjaitan
Jl Kartawijaya
5 Tegal
On the western side of town on Jl Iman Bonjol,
Tegal Bemo Terminal is the terminal for Kuta
66
Jl Tjut Nyak Dien and the Bukit Peninsula.
DESTINATION FARE (RP)
Bajra #
á1
í
# Sandhi US Consulate Airport 15,000
ò
# Monument (800m)
Jl Raya Puputan D6 Jimbaran 17,000
66
Kuta 13,000
Jl Tukad Gangga
Gunung Agung
#
ú This terminal (Jl Gunung Agung), at the
northwestern corner of town (look for orange
bemos), has bemos to Kerobokan and Canggu
(10,000Rp).
7 Kereneng
East of the town centre, Kereneng Bemo
Terminal has bemos to Sanur (7000Rp).
E F
24 2
Denpasar
æ Top Sights ú Eating
1 Bajra Sandhi Monument.........................F6 5 Café Teduh ...............................................B5
2 Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali................ C3 6 Cak Asmo .................................................D6
7 Warung Wardani......................................B2
æ Sights
3 Pura Jagatnatha...................................... C3 þ Shopping
8 Pasar Badung...........................................A3
ÿ Sleeping
4 Nakula Familiar Inn................................. B2
Ba li N
Wangaya 1 Sights
Near the centre of town, this small terminal is Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang BEACH
G ett
Ba li N
Bali Diving Academy DIVING 4 Sleeping & Eating
(% 0361-270252; www.scubali.com; Bungalow Num- Rooms and amenities generally become
S leep
usa Li ng
ber 7; 2 dives excl equipment US$79, PADI US$415) increasingly posh as you head south and
The long-running and very professional Bali west along the water to Tanjung Sanghyang
Diving Academy is a recommended dive op- (Mushroom Bay).
embongan
eration, which has long experience in the wa-
Nusa Lembongan e
# 00 500 m
0.25 miles
A B C D
Toyapakeh
D
#6
ç (7km)
: : : :
# 10
ÿ : : :
1 #9
ÿ : : : :1
: : :
ÿ
#
: : : :
12
: : :
#4
ç
: : : :
: : :
Seawall
Walkway: : : :
Selat : : :
Badung
: : : :
Ba li N
#5
ç : : :
2 2
: : : :
S leep
11 ÿ
#
usa Li ng
Sanur (19km)
D î
# JUNGUTBATU
2 Medical
# Clinic
p
embongan
Scoot f
#
3 Rocky Fast Cruises f
#
& E at i ng& Islands
#
Ý 14 PURA
Hillside #
ú
Path # 13 SEGARA
Tanjung #8 ÿ
ÿ
3 Sanghyang 3
1 # 15
ú
Ù
# Sandy Bay Beach Club (800m);
D
D
7ÿ
# Dream Beach (1.2km) Nusa Ceningan (1.5km)
A B C D
Nusa Lembongan
æ Sights ÿ Sleeping
1 Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang ................... A3 7 Alam Nusa Huts.......................................A3
8 Batu Karang .............................................C3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 9 Indiana Kenanga...................................... D1
2 Bali Diving Academy............................... C2 10 Pemedal Beach........................................ D1
3 Bounty Pontoon ...................................... A3 11 Pondok Baruna ........................................C2
4 Lacerations...............................................C1 12 Pondok Baruna Frangipani .................... D1
5 Playgrounds ............................................ C2 13 Ware-Ware ...............................................C3
6 Shipwrecks ...............................................C1
World Diving ....................................(see 11) ú Eating
14 Deck Cafe & Bar ......................................C3
15 Hai Bar & Grill...........................................B3
operator, this place offers fantastic rooms near a sandy beach; the 11 bungalows are set
with terraces facing the ocean. Plusher rooms back a bit with a nice pool.
surround a dive pool behind the beach.
There are another eight rooms at sister site Indiana Kenanga BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Ba li N
breezy location on a cliffside wooden deck. beanbags.
Batu Karang The restaurant (mains from 55,000Rp) is
Informat
HOTEL $$$
usa L embongan
(% 0366-559 6376; www.batukaranglembongan. popular with day trippers, so service can be
com; r incl breakfast from US$270; aiWs ) on the slow side.
This upmarket resort perched on a terraced Sandy Bay Beach Club INTERNATIONAL $$
hillside has a large infinity pool. Some of its (% 0828 9700 5656; www.sandybaylembongan.
i on
25 luxury units are villa-style and have mul- com; Sunset Bay; mains from 55,000Rp; h 8.30am-
tiple rooms and private plunge pools. All have 10.30pm; W ) Pushing the distressed bleached-
open-air bathrooms and wooden terraces with wood look for all its worth, this appealing
sweeping views. Right on the hillside path, beach club occupies a fine position on a sweet
& Islands
Deck Cafe & Bar (http://thedecklembongan. pocket of sand most call Sunset Beach (unless
com; snacks from 20,000Rp; h 7.30am-11pm; W ) is you’re this place and call it Sandy Bay…). The
a good pause for a gourmet snack or a drink. menu spans Asia and Europe, with a detour
to Burgerville. The evening seafood barbe-
4 Tanjung Sanghyang cues are popular.
(Mushroom Bay)
It’s your own treasure island. This shallow 88 Information
bay has a nice beach, plenty of overhanging It’s vital that you bring sufficient cash in rupiah
trees and some of the nicest lodgings on for your stay, as there is only one ATM and it
Lembongan. won’t accept most foreign cards, even when it
actually has cash to dispense.
Alam Nusa Huts GUESTHOUSE $
(% 0819 1662 6336; www.alamnusahuts.com; Tan- 88 Getting There & Away
jung Sanghyang; r from US$40; aW ) This small There are numerous options for getting to/from
property is less than 100m from the beach. Nusa Lembongan, some quite fast. Note: anyone
Four bungalows sit in a small, lush garden; with money to buy a speedboat is getting into the
each has an open-air bathroom and a secluded fast-boat act here; be wary of fly-by-night oper-
terrace. The interiors feature a lot of rich ators with fly-by-night safety standards. Boats
wood and bamboo. The staff are especially anchor offshore, so be prepared to get your feet
welcoming. wet. There are a number of fast boats heading
to/from Sanur; recommended operators include
oHai Bar & Grill INTERNATIONAL $$ Scoot (% 0361-285522; www.scootcruise.com)
(% 0361-720331; www.haitidebeachresort.com/ and Rocky Fast Cruises (% 0361-283624; www.
hai-bar-and-grill; Tanjung Sanghyang, Hai Tide Beach rockyfastcruise.com; Jungutbatu Beach).
Resort; mains from 60,000-125,000Rp; h 7am- Nusa Penida boats take locals between Jungut-
10.30pm; W ) This wide-open bar with wide- batu and Toyapakeh (one hour) between 5.30am
open views of the bay and sunsets is the most and 6am for 30,000Rp. Otherwise, charter a
stylish restaurant bar along Tanjung San- boat for 150,000Rp one way.
ghyang. The menu mixes Asian and Western
dishes, and there are comforts such as fresh- 88 Getting Around
baked muffins. You can use the pool if you The island is fairly small and you can walk to
eat here, and open-air movies screen some most places. There are no cars (although pickup
nights. Call for pickup from Jungutbatu. trucks are proliferating); bicycles (30,000Rp
per day) and small motorcycles (50,000Rp per
24 6
day) are widely available for hire. One unwelcome
development has been the arrival of SUV-sized Nusa Penida
golf carts. % 0366
One-way rides on motorcycles or trucks cost Largely overlooked by tourists, Nusa Penida
20,000Rp and up. awaits discovery. It’s an untrammelled place
that answers the question: what would Bali
be like if tourists never came?
Nusa Ceningan Nusa Penida was once used as a place of
There is an atmospheric, narrow suspen- banishment for criminals and other undesir-
sion bridge crossing the lagoon between ables from the kingdom of Klungkung. It’s
Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan, which thought to be home to demons. Life is simple
makes it quite easy to explore the island. here and there are not a lot of formal activi-
Ba li N
In addition to the lagoon that’s filled with ties or sights; rather, you go to Nusa Penida
frames for seaweed farming, you’ll see several to explore and relax.
small agricultural plots and a fishing village.
A ct
it, you can get glimpses of great scenery while Nusa Penida has world-class diving
Ltembongan
Ba li U
there’s a pool, an atmospheric restaurant and If you come by boat from Nusa Lembongan,
quick beach access. you’ll probably be dropped at the beach at
Toyapakeh, a pretty village with lots of shady
Informat
bud
B
oGallery CAFE $ trees. Public boats run between Jungutbatu
UD
(% 0819 9988 7205; Bodong; mains 25,000Rp; and Toyapakeh (30,000Rp, one hour) between
h 7.30am-9pm) A popular spot for volunteers
5.30am and 6am and there are also several trips
a day between Lembongan village and Toyapakeh
at the NGOs, this small cafe and shop is run
on fast boats (50,000Rp). Otherwise, charter a
i on
by the ever-charming Mike, a Brit who is a boat for 400,000Rp return.
font of Penida knowledge. There’s art on the
walls, hand-roasted filter coffee and a Western
menu of breakfasts items and sandwiches.
88 Getting Around
To see the island you can rent a motorbike,
Penida Colada CAFE $ or charter a private vehicle with driver from
(www.facebook.com/penidacolada; Bodong; mains 350,000Rp for a half-day.
35,000-60,000Rp; h 9am-late; W ) The cocktails
at this charming seaside-shack cafe, run by an
Indo–Aussie husband-wife team, are a must UBUD
have. Fresh, creative concoctions include aloe- % 0361
lime mojitos and dragon-fruit daiquiris to go Serving as the perfect antidote to the fun-
with a menu of grilled fish, BLT toasties and lovin’ beaches of the south, Ubud is the place
handcut chips with aioli. There’s often a sea- to go once you’re done partying hard and
food barbecue in the evenings. need some spiritual cleansing and detox.
Warung Pondok Nusa Penida INDONESIAN $ Framed by stunning green rice fields, lush
(Bodong; mains from 27,000Rp; h 9am-9pm) A jungles, ravines and rivers, the town of Ubud
cute little breezy place right on the beach. En- is justifiably one of Asia’s most famous tour-
joy well-prepared Indo classics and seafood ist towns. Though its main streets are often
(plus the odd international item) while taking clogged with traffic, all it takes is a short
in the views to Bali. Try the ‘seaweed mocktail’ stroll (or better yet, a long hike) and you’ll
dessert. find yourself immersed in its idyllic green
surrounds.
A patron of the arts as well as a cradle for
4 Sampalan Balinese culture, Ubud showcases traditional
Sampalan, the main town on Penida, is a Balinese dance and artworks, and its ornate
surprisingly hectic strip full of commerce. architecture is on show in its many palaces,
Hindu temples and shrines. And despite its
MaeMae Beach House GUESTHOUSE $ touristy make-up, Ubud remains a wonder-
(% 0817 479 4176; maemaebeachhouse2015@gmail. ful place to observe traditional Balinese life
com; Kutampi; r with fan/air-con 250,000/300,000Rp; through its daily offerings and Hindu rituals.
aW ) In the town of Kutampi just outside It also beckons as a spiritual retreat. Yoga
Sampalan, this guesthouse is convenient is the big draw, and many relaxation and
for the main harbour. The manager Agus wellness centres offer every kind of treat-
speaks excellent English and is a wealth of ment. Food is another highlight: Ubud has
knowledge about everything Penida. Rooms some of the most creative restaurants in In-
are modern, but with a few rough edges. donesia. While you’ll find a big emphasis on
The chilled-out warung does decent food and organic and vegetarian fare, don’t miss the
is close to the water. traditional Balinese food here.
66 666
24 8
Ubud Area
A B C D
# 11
ÿ Amandari
D
2
(400m)
# Neka Art
â SAKTI ÿ
#
Museum
66 666
1 SANGGINGAN
KEDEWATAN 6
Ø
#
24
k
eri
#
ú
an
Sungai C
ÿ
#
angging
aya Kedew an
66 666
S ungai W os
25 ú
#
at
h
langsu
SAMBAHAN
Ba li U
#
ú
S
21
JI Raya
2 #
ú 23
# 17
ÿ
Sung ai B
GB
JI R
ÿ
#
bud
ett
U Di ng A round
66 666
#
ÿ
a
wet
13
26
CAMPUAN
u
#
ú
Jl S
18 12 9
ÿ
# #
ÿ #
ÿ 20
JI am
a # ÿ
#
pu ya 5
R
3 an UBUD
22 â # Jl R KAJA
6666
666
66
PENESTANAN aya
I Raya Pene ú # 3 U bud
J s t a n an
ÿ
# 14
sm a
rna
na)
Jl Ka
ra Wa
J l Bi
6666
Jl D
ewi
Sita
4
l Wana
d (J
UBUD
KELOD
rest R
man
6666
666
ey Fo
Jl Hano
D
Monk
Bambu
5 Indah
Su
(400m)
nga
i Wos
66
6666
666 7ÿ
#
28 #
þ
JI Nyuh Bulan
6 # 15
ÿ
66 6
6666
16 ÿ
#
27
Football #1
ý
Field â
#
Agung Rai
Museum of Art
DANGIN
PENGOSEKAN
Jl Raya Pen
LEBAK
66
666
NYUHKUNING
7
gosekan
D
9 Warung (450m)
A B C D
66
24 9
e
# 0 800 m Spend a few days in Ubud to appreciate it
0 0.4 miles
E F properly. Ubud is one of those places where
days can become weeks and weeks become
D
Petulu
19 (150m) months, as the noticeable expat community
ÿ
#
66
demonstrates.
1
1 Sights
NAGI oMuseum Puri Lukisan MUSEUM
(Museum of Fine Arts; Map p252; % 0361-975136;
ÿ
#8 www.museumpurilukisan.com; off Jl Raya Ubud;
66
66
adult/child incl drink 85,000Rp/free; h 9am-5pm)
It was in Ubud that the modern Balinese art
Andong
Ba li U
movement started, when artists first began to
2
abandon purely religious themes and court
subjects for scenes of everyday life. This mu-
S iB
JI Raya
ÿ
#
bud
ghts
seum displays fine examples of all schools of
UD
10
66
a
666
Maya Ubud el of detail in Lempad’s The Dream of Dhar-
mbawan
wa
TEBESAYA
ta n
Jl Su
666
The museum has a good bookshop and
PADANGTEGAL a cafe. The lush, garden-like grounds alone
are worth a visit.
5
Ubud Palace PALACE
PELIATAN
(Map p252; cnr Jl Raya Ubud & Jl Suweta; h 8am-
666
7pm) F The palace and its temple, Puri
Saren Agung, share a space in the heart of
Ubud. The compound was mostly built after
the 1917 earthquake and the local royal family
still lives here. You can wander around most
6 of the large compound and explore the many
66
666
traditional, though not excessively ornate,
TEGES
#
ý buildings.
â
# de Lebah Jl Raya Goa Gajah
J l Ma Take time to appreciate the stone carvings,
many by noted local artists such as I Gusti
Nyoman Lempad. On many nights you can
watch a dance performance here.
66
Just north, Pura Marajan Agung (Map
Jl Raya M
4â
# the palace has a magnificent banyan tree, and
E F is also used as a residence for the family.
2 50
Ubud Area
æ Top Sights 16 Tegal Sari..................................................D6
1 Agung Rai Museum of Art...................... D6 17 Ubud Sari Health Resort.........................D2
2 Neka Art Museum....................................C1 18 Villa Nirvana .............................................A3
19 Wapa di Ume.............................................E1
æ Sights 20 Warwick Ibah Luxury Villas ....................C3
3 Blanco Renaissance Museum............... C3
4 Museum Rudana......................................F7 ú Eating
Alchemy...........................................(see 14)
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 21 Bintang Supermarket .............................B2
5 Bali Bird Walks ........................................ C3 22 Element.....................................................C3
6 Bali Botanica Day Spa.............................C1 23 Elephant....................................................C2
24 Mozaic....................................................... B1
Ba li U
Pura Desa Ubud HINDU TEMPLE The Lempad Pavilion houses Bali’s larg-
(Map p252; Jl Raya Ubud) F The main tem- est collection of works by the master I Gusti
ple for the Ubud community. It is often closed Nyoman Lempad.
but comes alive for ceremonies. The Contemporary Indonesian Art Hall
has paintings by artists from other parts
oPura Taman Saraswati HINDU TEMPLE of Indonesia, including stunning works by
(Map p252; Jl Raya Ubud) F Waters from the Affandi. The upper floor of the East-West Art
temple at the rear of this site feed the pond Annexe is devoted to the work of foreign art-
in the front, which overflows with pretty lo- ists, such as Louise Koke, Miguel Covarrubias,
tus blossoms. There are carvings that honour Rudolf Bonnet, Han Snel, Donald Friend and
Dewi Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and Antonio Blanco.
the arts, who has clearly given her blessing to The temporary exhibition hall has chang-
Ubud. There are regular dance performances ing displays, while the Photography Archive
by night. Centre features black-and-white photogra-
phy of Bali in the early 1930s and ’40s. Head
oNeka Art Museum GALLERY
upstairs in the lobby to see the large collection
(Map p248; % 0361-975074; www.museumneka.
of ceremonial kris (daggers).
com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; adult/child 50,000Rp/
free; h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) The oAgung Rai Museum of Art GALLERY
creation of Suteja Neka, a private collector (ARMA; Map p248; % 0361-976659; www.armabali.
and dealer in Balinese art, Neka Art Mus- com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; adult/child incl drink
eum has an excellent and diverse collection. 60,000Rp/free; h 9am-6pm, Balinese dancing
It’s a good place to learn about the devel- 3-5pm Mon-Fri, classes 10am Sun) Founded by
opment of painting in Bali. You can get an art patron Agung Rai as an art museum,
overview of the myriad local painting styles cultural centre, botanical gardens and hotel,
in the Balinese Painting Hall. Look for the the impressive ARMA features a world-class
wayang works. collection of Balinese, Indonesian and Euro-
The Arie Smit Pavilion features Smit’s pean artists. The collection is well labelled in
works on the upper level, and examples of English. Exhibits include classical Kamasan
the Young Artist school, which he inspired, paintings, Batuan-style work from the 1930s
on the lower level. Look for the Bruegel-like and ’40s, and works by Lempad, Affandi,
The Wedding Ceremony by I Nyoman Tjarka. Sadali, Hofker, Bonnet and Le Mayeur. The
museum is housed in several traditional
251
buildings set in gardens with water coursing 1966, the low-key Neka Gallery is a separate
through channels. entity from the other gallery bearing Neka’s
It’s fun to visit ARMA when local chil- name, Neka Art Museum. It has an extensive
dren practise Balinese dancing and during selection from all the schools of Balinese art,
gamelan practice. as well as works by European residents, such
as the renowned Arie Smit.
Museum Rudana GALLERY
(Map p248; % 0361-975779; www.museumrudana.
com; Jl Raya Mas; admission incl drink & souvenir
2 Activities
100,000Rp; h 9.30am-5pm) This imposing
Ubud has established itself in recent years as
museum overlooking rice fields is the crea- one of the best places in Southeast Asia to
tion of local politician and art-lover Nyoman practise yoga. All forms of yoga are on offer
Rudana and his wife, Ni Wayan Olasthini. and for all levels.
Ba li U
The three floors contain more than 400 It also brims with salons and spas, where
traditional paintings, including a calendar you can heal, pamper, rejuvenate or other-
wise focus on your personal needs, both
A ct
dated to the 1840s, some Lempad drawings
bud
B
physical and mental.
UiDv i t i es
and more-modern pieces. The museum is be-
side the Rudana Gallery, which has a large White-Water Rafting
selection of paintings for sale. Photography The nearby Sungai Ayung (Ayung River)
is prohibited. is the most popular river in Bali for white-
Blanco Renaissance Museum MUSEUM
water rafting. Bali Adventure Tours (% 0361-
(Map p248; % 0361-975502; www.blancomuseum. 721480; www.baliadventuretours.com; rafting
com; Jl Raya Campuan; adult/child 80,000Rp/free; trips adult/child from $79/52) and Bio (% 0361-
h 9am-5pm) The picture of Antonio Blanco
270949; www.bioadventurer.com; adult/child from
(1912–99) mugging with Michael Jackson US$79/65) are two reputable operators.
says it all. His surreal palatial neo-renaissance Yoga & Wellness
home and namesake museum captures Yoga Barn YOGA
the artist’s theatrical spirit. Blanco came to (Map p252; % 0361-971236; www.theyogabarn.com;
Bali from Spain via the Philippines. Playing off Jl Raya Pengosekan; classes from 120,000Rp;
the role of an eccentric artist à la Dalí, he is h 7am-8pm) The chakra for the yoga revolu-
known for his expressionist art and illustrated tion in Ubud, the Yoga Barn sits in its own
poetry that incorporates a mix of styles and lotus position amid trees back near a river
mediums. Enjoy the waterfall and exotic birds valley. The name exactly describes what you’ll
on the way in, and good views over the river. find: a huge range of classes in yoga, Pilates,
Neka Gallery GALLERY
dance and life-affirming offshoots, held
(Map p252; % 0361-975034; Jl Raya Ubud; h 8am- throughout the week.
5pm) F Operated by Suteja Neka since
0 400 m
Central Ubud e
# 0 0.25 miles
A B C D E F G
þ
# 51
n
UBUD
ng
dela
KAJA
aje
1 1
ekan
wet
#
Jl K
ý
# 43 17 ÿ
u
ng P
at
edari
Jl S
o
L or
Jl R Museum Puri
aya
Jl Sriw
Jl Sand
Ub Lukisan
ud â
#1 KUTUH
Pura Taman
Saraswati þ
# 50
Þ
#2 36
ú
# Þ
#7
2
66 ú
#
23
Þ
#6
Fabulous
8
#
V
#
39 ü
16
2
ggada
# #
ÿ
Ubud ï 28
þ
# 52
Jl An
Jl A Jl R #
ú
rjun
a #
ú aya ú 25
# 26 #
Ub ú TAMAN
66 27 ud
Ø
# 12
49
ú
#
Delta Dewata
Supermarket
sm a
3
þ
# â
#4 Guardian 3
20 Pharmacy
Jl B i
#
ÿ #
22 ú î
#
a
þ
# 48 #
19 ÿ þ
# 45
ma
arn
ú
# 42
Gang Be
ji 47
man
6
Jl K
21 #
ý
o
#
þ
Jl Maruti
ò
#
Jl Gouta
# 9 # 15
Football ú 30 35 #
Ø
Jl Han
Field 34 ú
# #
ú #
ú #
ÿ 10
18 29 J l Dewi Sit
a
#
ÿ #
þ
4 ú
# 31 4
46 37
#
ú
6 û
# 40
#
ú
#
Ø
4 4
#
û
#
ú
#
Ø 14
man
ú
# 38 24
o
11
a
ÿ
#
bawa
TEBESAYA
Jl Han
5 5
Jl Sugriw
an a )
UBUD
J l Jem
KELOD
an
#
32 ú
liat
e
33
nara W a
#
ú
Jl P
(Jl W
44
st Rd
þ
# PADANGTEGAL
6 6
kma
y F or e
ke
Jl Su
Mon
PELIATAN
7 7
666
6 #
. ð
#
M
o n k ey F orest Rd (Jl Wanara Wana )
#
÷3
ka n
666
6 Sacred
Monkey Forest
ngose
Sanctuary Ø
# 13
n
8 û 8
J
Pe
# 41
la
›
# lS
Bu
Þ
#5 uk
Perama
aya
m
uh
y a
N
Jl R
JI
A B C D E F G
666
6 Ba li U UiDv i t i es
bud
A ct
B 66
253
254
Central Ubud
æ Top Sights 26 Gelato Secrets .........................................D3
1 Museum Puri Lukisan............................. B2 27 Gelato Secrets .........................................C3
2 Pura Taman Saraswati........................... C2 28 Hujon Locale ............................................D2
3 Sacred Monkey Forest Il Giardino ........................................(see 17)
Sanctuary ............................................. B8 29 Juice Ja Cafe ............................................C4
30 Locavore...................................................C4
æ Sights 31 Locavore to Go ........................................D4
4 Neka Gallery .............................................E3 32 Siti's Warung Little India......................... E5
5 Pura Dalem Agung.................................. A8 33 Three Monkeys ........................................B5
6 Pura Desa Ubud ...................................... C2 34 Tutmak Cafe ............................................C4
7 Pura Marajan Agung............................... C2 35 Waroeng Bernadette ..............................D4
Puri Saren Agung .............................(see 8) 36 Warung Ibu Oka .......................................C2
Ba li U
a good one to the Gianyar night market or to (www.ubudwritersfestival.com; 1-day pass 1,200,
a Kintamani coffee plantation. 000Rp; h late Oct/early Nov) Brings together
scores of writers and readers from around the
Nirvana Batik Course ARTS world in a celebration of writing – especially
(Map p252; % 0361-975415; www.nirvanaku. writing that touches on Bali. A major event
com; Nirvana Pension, Jl Goutama 10; classes from on the Ubud calendar.
480,000Rp; h classes 10am-2pm Mon-Sat) Nyo-
man Suradnya teaches these highly regarded 4 Sleeping
Ba li U
batik courses. Ubud has the best and most appealing range
of places to stay in Bali, including fabled re-
T Tours
T ours
sorts, artful guesthouses, and charming, sim-
bud
B UD
Day tours around Ubud are popular, espe- ple homestays.
cially ones that involve activities or themed It enjoys cool mountain air at night, so air-
programs. con isn’t necessary, and with your windows
open you’ll hear the symphony of sounds off
Bali Nature Herbal Walks WALKING TOUR
the rice fields and river valleys.
(% 0812 381 6024; www.baliherbalwalk.com; walks
per person 200,000Rp; h 8.30am) Three-hour
walks through lush Bali landscapes. Medicinal 4 Central Ubud
and cooking herbs and plants are identified Happy Mango Tree HOSTEL $
and explained in their natural environment. (Map p252; % 0812 3844 5498; www.thehappy
Includes herbal drinks. mangotree.com; Jl Bisma 27; dm/d from
100,000/250,000Rp; W ) This bright and bubbly
Banyan Tree Cycling Tours BICYCLE TOUR
hostel revels in its hippy vibe. Bright colours
(% 0813 3879 8516; www.banyantreebiketours.com;
abound inside the rooms and out on the var-
tours adult/child from 550,000/350,000Rp) Enjoy
ious terraces, some of which have rice-field
day-long tours of remote villages in the hills
views. Mixed dorms have four or five beds;
above Ubud. The tours are very popular, and
doubles come with names (and matching de-
emphasise interaction with villagers. Hiking
cor) such as Love Shack and Ceiling Museum.
and rafting trips are also available.
There’s a social bar and a restaurant, too.
Bali Bird Walks BIRDWATCHING
Han Snel Siti Bungalows GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p248; % 0361-975009; www.balibirdwalk.com;
(Map p252; % 0361-975699; www.sitibungalow.
Jl Raya Campuan; tour incl lunch US$37; h 9am-
com; Jl Kajeng 3; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con
12.30pm Tue, Fri, Sat & Sun) Started by Victor
from 250,000/350,000Rp; aWs ) Owned by
Mason more than three decades ago, this
the family of the late Han Snel, a well-known
tour, ideal for keen birders, is still going
Dutch painter, Siti Bungalows is one of
strong. On a gentle morning’s walk (from the
Ubud’s original guesthouses. While its stand-
long-closed Beggar’s Bush Bar) you may see
ards have slipped, it remains excellent value
up to 30 of the 100-odd local species.
and a wonderful choice for those seeking
z Festivals & Events somewhere with character, a delightful gar-
den and spacious bungalows – some of which
The Ubud area is one of the best places to see overlook the river gorge.
the many religious and cultural events cele-
brated in Bali each year. The tourist office is d’Rompok House GUESTHOUSE $
unmatched for its comprehensive informa- (Map p252; % 0353-344837; drompokhouse@
tion on events each week. yahoo.com; Jl Hanoman 39; r incl breakfast
250,000Rp; aW ) Tucked down a tight gang,
Bali Spirit Festival DANCE, MUSIC the well-priced d’Rompok is more suave than
(www.balispiritfestival.com; day pass US$156; h late your usual homestay, with large modern
Mar/early Apr) A popular yoga, dance and mu- rooms decorated with contemporary art. Go
sic festival from the people behind the Yoga for one of the top-floor rooms with views of
Barn, a local yoga hub. There are more than the rice fields.
2 56
The 8.5km Campuan Ridge walk leaves Jl Raya Campuan at the Warwick Ibah Lux-
ury Villas. Enter the hotel driveway and take the path to the left, where a walkway crosses
S leep
the river to Pura Gunung Lebah. From there follow the concrete path north, climbing up
bud
B
onto the ridge between the two rivers. It passes over the lush river valley of Sungai Wos,
U D i ng
offering views of Gunung Agung and glimpses of small village communities and rice fields.
Continuing north along the Campuan ridge, the road improves as it passes through rice
paddies and the small village of Bangkiang Sidem. On the outskirts of the village, an
unsigned road heads west, which winds down to Sungai Cerik (the west branch of Sungai
Wos), then climbs steeply up to Payogan. From here you can walk south to the main road
and on to the centre of Ubud.
Ba li U
four-poster beds, antique furnishings and hot
water. Give a royal wave to wandering tour- 4 Nyuhkuning
S leep
ists from your patio. A popular area just south of the Monkey
bud
B U D i ng
Forest, Nyuhkuning has some creative guest-
4 Sambahan & Sakti houses and hotels, yet is not a long walk to
the centre.
Going north from Jl Raya Ubud, you are
soon in rolling terraces of rice fields. Tucked Swasti Eco Cottages GUESTHOUSE $$
away here you’ll find interesting and often (Map p248; % 0361-974079; www.baliswasti.com;
luxurious hotels, and you can have a beauti- Jl Nyuh Bulan; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from
ful walk to the centre. 650,000/750,000Rp; aiWs ) A five-minute
walk from the south entrance to the Mon-
Bali Asli Lodge HOMESTAY $
key Forest, this guesthouse and bungalow
(Map p248; % 0361-970537; www.baliaslilodge.com; compound has large grounds that feature
Jl Suweta; r incl breakfast 300,000Rp; W ) Escape an organic garden (produce is used in the
the central Ubud hubbub here. Made is your cafe). Some of the rooms are in simple two-
friendly host, and her four rooms are in tra- storey blocks; others are in vintage tradi-
ditional Balinese stone-and-brick houses set tional houses brought here from across Bali.
on verdant gardens. There are terraces where Swasti also offers a mix of Balinese classes
you can let the hours pass; interiors are clean and workshops.
and comfy. Town is a 15-minute walk.
Alam Indah HOTEL $$
Ketut’s Place GUESTHOUSE $$
(Map p248; % 0361-974629; www.alamindahbali.
(Map p248; % 0361-975304; www.ketutsplace.com; com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r incl breakfast US$65-135;
Jl Suweta 40; r incl breakfast with fan 500,000Rp, aWs ) Just south of the Monkey Forest, this
with air-con 600,000Rp; aiWs ) A step up isolated and spacious resort has 16 rooms
from the usual temple compound homestays, that are beautifully finished in natural ma-
here the rooms all have artful accents and terials to traditional designs. The Wos Valley
river-valley views. A dramatic pool shimmers views are entrancing, especially from the
down the hillside. Rooms range from basic multilevel pool area. There’s a free shuttle
with fans to deluxe versions with air-con and into central Ubud.
bathtubs.
Ubud Sari Health Resort GUESTHOUSE $$ 4 Campuan & Sanggingan
(Map p248; % 0361-974393; www.ubudsari.com;
The long sloping road that takes its names
Jl Kajeng; r/villa from US$50/60; a W s ) Over-
from these two communities has a number of
looking a bubbling stream and surrounded
upscale properties on its east side that over-
by forest, the 21 rooms at this noted health
look a lush river valley.
spa have a name that says it all: Zen Village.
The plants in the gardens are labelled for Hotel Tjampuhan HOTEL $$
their medicinal qualities, and the cafe serves (Map p248; % 0361-975368; www.tjampuhan-bali.
organic, vegetarian fare. Guests can use the com; Jl Raya Campuan; r incl breakfast US$95-180;
health facilities, including the sauna and aiWs ) This venerable 69-room place
whirlpool. overlooks the confluence of Sungai Wos (Wos
258
River) and Campuan. The influential German oBambu Indah BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
artist Walter Spies lived here in the 1930s, and (% 0361-975124; www.bambuindah.com; Ban-
his former home, which sleeps four people, is jar Baung; s/d incl breakfast US$110/150; Ws )
part of the hotel. Bungalow-style units spill Famed expat entrepreneur John Hardy sold
down the hill and enjoy mesmerising valley his jewellery company in 2007 and became
and temple views. a hotelier. On a ridge near Sayan and his be-
loved Sungai Ayung, he’s assembled a com-
oWarwick Ibah Luxury Villas HOTEL $$$
pound of 100-year-old royal Javanese houses
(Map p248; % 0361-974466; www.warwickibah.com; and a stunning Sumbanese thatched house;
off Jl Raya Campuan; ste/villa incl breakfast from each space is furnished with style and flair.
US$255/440; aWs ) Overlooking the rushing Several outbuildings create a timeless village
waters and rice-clad hills of the Wos Valley, with underpinnings of luxury. Free shuttle
the Ibah offers refined luxury in spacious,
Ba li U
The swimming pool is set into the hillside resort.com; Jl Raya Sayan; r/villa incl breakfast
amid gardens and lavish stone carvings. from US$100/175; aiWs ) Gaze into the
Sayan Valley from this venerable, but slightly
dated, hotel and you’ll understand why this
4 Penestanan was the site of composer Colin McPhee’s
Just west of the Campuan bridge, steep Jl book A House in Bali. Stay here while your
Raya Penestanan branches off to the left and neighbours housed in luxury resorts pay far
climbs up and around to Penestanan, a large more. The 12 rooms and villas are simply
plateau of rice fields and lodgings. decorated but are large and have that view.
Rates include afternoon tea.
oSantra Putra GUESTHOUSE $
(Map p248; % 0361-977810; wayankarja@gmail. Mandapa Ritz Carlton VILLA $$$
com; off Jl Raya Campuan; r incl breakfast 300,000- (Map p248; % 0361-4792777; www.ritzcarlton.com;
400,000Rp; W ) Run by internationally exhib- Jl Kedewatan; ste/villa incl breakfast & activities from
ited abstract artist I Wayan Karja (whose US$575/870; aW ) Epic doesn’t even begin to
studio-gallery is also on-site), this place has describe the extent to which this stunning
11 big, open, airy rooms with hot water. En- resort soars. Sprawling over 5.5 hectares, it’s
joy paddy-field views from all vantage points. the size of a small village, and set in a spec-
Painting and drawing classes are offered by tacular valley enclosed by rice fields. The
the artist. stars of the show are the villas on the river-
front, but you can’t go wrong in any of the
Villa Nirvana BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
villas or suites.
(Map p248; % 0361-979419; www.villanirvanabali.
Kubu restaurant is worth a visit even if
com; Penestanan; r incl breakfast US$120-250;
you’re not staying here, both for its scenic
aWs ) You may find nirvana reaching Villa
riverfront location and its five-course degus-
Nirvana: access is along a 150m path through
tation menu.
a small river valley from the west or along
a rice-field path from the top of steep steps Amandari HOTEL $$$
from the east. The eight-room compound, de- (% 0361-975333; www.amanresorts.com; Sayan;
signed by local architect Awan Sukhro Edhi, ste incl breakfast from US$950; aiWs ) In
is a serene retreat. Rates include shuttle ser- Kedewatan village, the storied Amandari
vice and free loan of a mobile phone. does everything with the charm and grace
of a classical Balinese dancer. Superb views
4 Sayan & Ayung Valley over the jungle and down to the river – the
30m green-tiled swimming pool seems to
Two kilometres west of Ubud, the fast-flowing drop right over the edge – are just some of
Sungai Ayung (Ayung River) has carved out the inducements. The 30 private pavilions
a deep valley, its sides sculpted into terraced may prove inescapable.
paddy fields or draped in thick rainforest.
Overlooking this verdant valley are some of
Bali’s best hotels.
2 59
the ‘Home of Rendang’ for nothing. The
4 Peliatan west Sumatran classic dish of long-marinat-
Located 3km east of Ubud Palace, the ed meats (beef is the true classic, but here
Peliatan area has a relaxed rural feel, sans there’s also a vegie jackfruit variety) is pulled
traffic jams and tourists. off with colour and flair. Other dishes have
a zesty zing missing from lacklustre versions
oMaya Ubud HOTEL $$$ served elsewhere. The elevated dining room
(% 0361-977888; www.mayaubud.com; Jl Gunung is a vision of kitsch.
Sari Peliatan; r/villa incl breakfast & activities from
US$330/545; aiWs ) One of the most beau- Hujon Locale INDONESIAN $$
tiful large hotels around Ubud, this massive (Map p252; % 0361-849 3092; www.hujanlocale.
10-hectare property is superbly integrated com; Jl Sriwedari 5; mains 110,000-200,000Rp;
into its surrounding river valley and rice h noon-10pm; W ) From the team of the criti-
Ba li U
fields. The 108 rooms and villas have the sort cally acclaimed Mama San in Seminyak, Hu-
of open and light feeling combined with tra- jon Locale is one of Ubud’s finest restaurants.
E at
ditional materials that defines the concept of The menu mixes traditional Indonesian dish-
bud
B UiDng
‘Bali style’. The infinity pool overlooking the es with modern, creative flair, from Sulawesi
jungle is wonderful, as is its spa complex. salt-baked barramundi, Achenese prawn cur-
ry to slow-braised Sumatran lamb curry. The
5 Eating setting within a chic colonial-style two-storey
Ubud’s cafes and restaurants are some of the bungalow is made for a balmy evening.
best in Bali. Local and expat chefs produce a Watercress CAFE $$
bounty of authentic Balinese dishes, as well (Map p252; www.watercressubud.com; Monkey For-
as inventive Asian and international cuisines. est Rd; mains 90,000-150,000Rp; h 7.30am-11pm;
It’s also known for its organic and vegetarian W ) Riding on the success of the hip Canggu
fare (p260). cafe, the Ubud version attracts a young fash-
ionable crowd for quality Western food. It has
5 Central Ubud a stylish double-level open-air setting, does
creative all-day breakfasts, and offers a menu
Warung Ibu Oka BALINESE $
leaning towards Modern Australian: fresh
(Map p252; Jl Suweta; mains from 50,000Rp;
salads, awesome fish burgers with crispy chat
h 11am-7pm) Opposite Ubud Palace, lunchtime
potatoes, king prawn linguine and charred
crowds are waiting for one thing: Balinese-
lamp chops.
style roast babi guling (suckling pig). Order a
spesial to get the best cut. Siti’s Warung Little India INDIAN $$
(Map p252; % 0819 9962 4555; Jl Sukma 36; mains
Tutmak Cafe CAFE $
from 45,000Rp; h 10am-10pm) Run by the de-
(Map p252; % 0361-975754; www.tutmak.com; Jl
lightful Siti, this character-filled Indian res-
Dewi Sita; mains 30,000-90,000Rp; h 8am-11pm;
taurant is decked out in vintage Bollywood
W ) This smart, breezy multilevel terrace res-
posters and accompanied by a soundtrack
taurant is a popular place for a refreshing
of Hindi pop. Its thalis, samosas and masa-
drink or something to munch on from the
la chai are all delicious and authentic. Also
menu of Indo classics. The nasi campur with
delivers tiffins.
fresh tuna is one of Ubud’s finest.
Fair Warung Balé INTERNATIONAL $$
Gelato Secrets GELATERIA $
(Map p252; % 0361-975370; www.fairfuture
(Map p252; www.gelatosecrets.com; Jl Raya Ubud;
foundation.org; Jl Sriwedari 6; mains 45,000-
from 25,000Rp; h 10.30am-11pm) On Ubud’s
75,000Rp; h 11am-10pm) S Mellow by day,
main drag, this temple to frozen goodness
hotspot by night; there are often queues in
has fresh flavours made from local fruits and
the evenings to get a table at this attractive
spices, such as dragonfruit cinnamon or cash-
upstairs restaurant. It’s run by a Swiss-based
ew black sesame. It also has a branch on Mon-
NGO and 100% of proceeds go to healthcare
key Forest Road (Map p252; www.gelatosecrets.
in the local community. Food ranges from
com; Monkey Forest Rd; h 10am-10.30pm).
local curries to freshly baked baguettes with
oWaroeng Bernadette INDONESIAN $$ tuna tartare.
(Map p252; % 0821-4742 4779; Jl Goutama; mains
from 60,000Rp; h 11am-11pm; W ) It’s not called
260
Sari Organik (Warung Bodag Maliah; Map p248; % 0361-972087; Subak Sok Wayah; meals
from 38,000Rp; h 8am-8pm) In a beautiful location on a plateau overlooking rice terraces
E at
and river valleys, this attractive cafe is in the middle of a big organic farm. The food’s
bud
B UiDng
healthy and the drinks are cool and refreshing. The walk through the rice fields means
half the fun is getting here.
Warung Sopa (Map p252; % 0361-276 5897; Jl Sugriwa 36; mains 30,000-60,000Rp; h 8am-
9.30pm; Wv ) This popular open-air place in a residential street captures the Ubud vibe
with creative and (more importantly) tasty vegetarian fare with a Balinese twist. Look for
specials of the day on display; the ever-changing nasi campur is a treat.
Bali Buda (Map p252; % 0361-976324; www.balibuda.com; Jl Jembawan 1; meals from
30,000Rp; h 7.30am-10pm; v ) This breezy upper-floor place offers a full range of vege-
tarian jamu (health tonics), salads, sandwiches, savoury crepes, pizzas and gelato. The
bulletin board downstairs is packed with idiosyncratic Ubud notices.
Earth Cafe & Market (Map p252; www.dtebali.com/earth-cafe-market-ubud; Jl Gotama
Selatan; meals from 30,000Rp; W v ) ‘Eliminate Free Radicals’ is but one of many healthy
drinks at this hard-core outpost for vegetarian organic dining and drinking. The seem-
ingly endless menu has a plethora of soups, salads and platters that are heavy on Med
flavours. There’s a market on the main floor.
Alchemy (Map p248; % 0361-971981; www.alchemybali.com; Jl Raya Penestanan 75; mains
from 50,000Rp; h 7am-9pm; Wv ) A prototypical 100% vegan Ubud restaurant, Alchemy
features a vast customised salad menu as well as cashew-milk drinks, durian smoothies,
ice cream, fennel juice and a lot more. The raw-chocolate desserts are addictive.
Juice Ja Cafe (Map p252; % 0361-971056; Jl Dewi Sita; mains from 30,000Rp; h 8am-10pm;
W ) Glass of spirulina? Dash of wheatgrass with your papaya juice? Organic fruits and veg-
etables go into the food at this funky bakery-cafe. Little brochures explain the provenance
of items such as the organic cashew nuts. Enjoy the patio.
Yellow Flower Cafe (Map p248; % 0361-889 9865; off Jl Raya Campuan; mains from
30,000Rp; h 8am-9pm; W ) New Age Indonesian right up in Penestanan along a little path
through the rice fields. Organic mains such as nasi campur or rice pancakes are good;
snackers will delight in the decent coffees, cakes and smoothies. From 5.30pm Sunday
evenings there’s an excellent Balinese buffet (99,000Rp).
9 Warung (% 0817 776 768; Jl Lodtunduh; per item 3000Rp; h 10.30am-9.30pm; v ) A
unique self-service system where customers serve themselves vegetarian and vegan
dishes (3000Rp per spoonful), wash their own dishes and calculate the bill before pay-
ing using a trust system.
Elephant (Map p248; % 0361-716 1907; www.elephantbali.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; mains
60,000-150,000Rp; h 8am-9.30pm; W v ) High-concept vegetarian dining with gorgeous
views across the Sungai Cerik valley. Foods are well seasoned, interesting and topped off
with an especially good dessert menu.
26 1
Three Monkeys FUSION $$ from tropical Asia. Dine in an elegant garden
(Map p252; www.threemonkeyscafebali.com; Mon- or an ornate pavilion. Choose from four tast-
key Forest Rd; meals from 60,000Rp; h 8am-10pm; ing menus, one of which is a surprise.
W ) Order a kaffir-lime mojito and settle back
amid the frog symphony of the rice fields. 6 Drinking & Nightlife
Add the glow of tiki torches for a magical No one comes to Ubud for wild nightlife. A
effect. By day there are sandwiches, salads few bars get lively around sunset and later in
and gelato. At night there’s a fusion menu of the night, but the venues often close by 11pm.
Asian classics. The staff are very friendly.
oCoffee Studio Seniman CAFE
Il Giardino ITALIAN $$
(Map p252; % 0361-972085; www.senimancoffee.
(Map p252; % 0361-974271; www.ilgiardinobali.com; com; Jl Sriwedari; coffee 30,000Rp; h 8am-10pm;
Jl Kajeng; mains 60,000Rp-150,000Rp; h 5-10.30pm; aW ) That ‘coffee studio’ moniker isn’t for
Ba li U
W ) This romantic outdoor Italian restaurant
show; all the equipment is on display at this
has a beautiful setting overlooking a lily pond temple of single-origin coffee. Take a seat on
Dr
and the gallery of Dutch painter Han Snel. It the designer rocker chairs and choose from
bud
B
does aperitivo, wood-fired pizzas, homemade
iUnk
an array of pourovers, siphon, Aeropress or
D i ng & N i ghtl i fe
pastas and hearty Italian mains. espresso using a range of quality Indonesian
Element INTERNATIONAL $$ beans. It’s also popular for food (mains from
(Map p248; % 0821 4419 7198; Jl Penestanan; mains 40,000Rp) and drinks in the evening.
55,000-105,000Rp; h 7am-11pm; W ) A charming CP Lounge BAR, CLUB
little roadside eatery hidden on the back- (Map p252; www.cp-lounge.com; Monkey Forest Rd;
streets, Element does fresh lunches such h 11am-4am) Open till early morning, CP is
as house-smoked ham baguettes or grilled the place to kick on once everything else has
tuna burgers. The locally inspired Kintamani closed. It has garden seating, live bands and a
pork belly is popular. Look out for the amus- club with DJ and sound system.
ing ‘thought for the day’ on the chalkboard
outside. Melting Pot SPORTS BAR
(Map p252; % 0858 5748 0230; www.meltingpotbali.
oLocavore FUSION $$$ com; Jl Raya Pengosekan 22; h 11am-2am) While
(Map p252; % 0361-977733; www.restaurant a sports bar may seem at odds with artsy
locavore.com; Jl Dewi Sita; 5-/7-course degustation Ubud, this Texan-run pool hall does a good
475,000/575,000Rp; h noon-2pm & 6-10pm; aW ) job of catering to expat needs with live AFL,
The foodie heaven in Ubud, this temple to lo- NRL, Premier League and American sports.
cally sourced, ultra-creative foods is the town’s It attracts a diverse crowd through its quality
toughest table. Book weeks in advance. Meals diner food (awesome cheeseburgers), pool ta-
are degustation and can top out at nine cours- bles and rock and roll.
es; expect this cuisine nirvana to last upwards
of three hours. Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer and
Ray Adriansyah in the open kitchen are ma-
3 Entertainment
Few travel experiences are more magical than
gicians; enjoy the show.
attending a Balinese dance performance, es-
Up the road there is also Locavore to
pecially while in Ubud.
Go (Map p252; % 0361-977733; Jl Dewi Sita; from
In a week in Ubud you can see Kecak, Le-
75,000Rp; h 8.30am-6pm; W ), which is good
gong and Barong dances, wayang kulit shad-
for brunch, with the likes of breakfast burgers
ow puppets, gamelan orchestras and more.
and banh mi.
Fabulous Ubud (p263) has performance in-
oMozaic FUSION $$$ formation and sells tickets (usually 80,000Rp).
(Map p248; % 0361-975768; www.mozaic-bali.com; For performances outside Ubud, transport is
Jl Raya Sanggingan; 6-course menu 700,000Rp; often included in the price. Tickets are also
h 6-10pm; W ) Chef Chris Salans oversees this sold at the venues and by street vendors who
much-lauded top-end restaurant. Fine French hang around outside Ubud Palace; all tickets
fusion cuisine features on a constantly chang- cost the same price.
ing seasonal menu that takes its influences
262
BALINESE DANCE
Dance and musical performances are the result of an ever-evolving culture with a legacy
that’s centuries long. Rigid choreography and discipline are hallmarks of beautiful,
melodic Balinese dance, a performance of which no visitor should miss.
Kecak
Probably the best-known dance. With its spellbinding, hair-raising atmosphere, the Kecak
features a ‘choir’ of men and boys who sit in concentric circles and slip into a trance as
they chant and sing ‘chak-a-chak-a-chak’, imitating a troupe of monkeys. Sometimes called
the ‘vocal gamelan’, this is the only music to accompany the dance re-enactment from the
Hindu epic Ramayana, the familiar love story about Prince Rama and his Princess Sita.
Ba li U
The Barong is a good but mischievous and fun-loving shaggy dog-lion, with huge eyes
bud
B U D i ng
and a mouth that clacks away to much dramatic effect. Because this character is the
protector of a village, the actors playing the Barong (who are utterly lost under layers of
fur-clad costume) will emote a variety of winsome antics.
Meanwhile, the widow-witch Rangda is bad through and through. The Queen of Black
Magic, the character’s monstrous persona can include flames shooting out her ears, a
tongue dripping with fire, a mane of wild hair and large breasts.
The story features a duel between the Rangda and the Barong, whose supporters draw
their kris (traditional dagger) and rush in to help. The long-tongued, sharp-fanged Rangda
throws them into a trance, making them stab themselves. It’s quite a spectacle. Thankful-
ly, the Barong casts a spell that neutralises the kris power so it cannot harm them.
Legong
Characterised by flashing eyes and quivering hands, this most graceful of Balinese
dances is performed by young girls. Their talent is so revered that in old age, a classic
dancer will be remembered as a ‘great Legong’.
Peliatan’s famous dance troupe, Gunung Sari, often seen in Ubud, is particularly noted
for its Legong Keraton (Legong of the Palace). The very stylised and symbolic story in-
volves two Legong dancing in mirror image. They are elaborately made up and dressed in
gold brocade, relating a story about a king who takes a maiden captive and consequently
starts a war, in which he dies.
Ba li U
Moari MUSIC
or purchase examples of his journalistic and
(Map p252; % 0361-977367; Jl Raya Ubud; h 10am-
artistic work.
8pm) New and restored Balinese musical in-
Informat
bud
B
Kevala CERAMICS struments are sold here. Splurge on a cute
UD
(Map p252; www.kevalaceramics.com; Jl Dewi Sita; little bamboo flute for 30,000Rp.
h 9am-7.30pm) Fitting right in along this
boutiquey strip, Kevala is famous for its 88 Information
i on
handmade and handpainted contemporary Along the main roads you’ll find most services
ceramic designs and homewares. you need, including lots of ATMs.
Fabulous Ubud (Yaysan Bina Wisata; Map p252;
Ubud Market SOUVENIRS
% 0361-973285; www.fabulousubud.com; Jl
(Pasar Seni; Map p252; Jl Raya Ubud; h 7am-8pm) Raya Ubud; h 8am-8pm) Set up by the Ubud
The large Ubud Market is your one-stop shop royal family, this is the one really useful tourist
for kitschy souvenirs, clothing and presents office in Bali. It has a good range of information
for back home. It’s inside a large complex; and a noticeboard listing current happenings
stallholders set up across several buildings, and activities. The staff can answer most
and also along Jl Karna. regional questions and have up-to-date informa-
tion on ceremonies and traditional dances held
Ganesha Bookshop BOOKS in the area; dance tickets are sold here.
(Map p252; www.ganeshabooksbali.com; Jl Raya Hubud (Map p252; % 0361-978073; www.
Ubud; h 9am-8pm) A quality bookshop with hubud.org; Monkey Forest Rd; per month from
an excellent selection of titles on Indone- US$60; h 24hr Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat &
sian studies, travel, arts, music, fiction (in- Sun; i W ) One for the digital nomads, this
cluding used books) and maps. Good staff co-working space and digital hub has ultrafast
recommendations. web connections, developer seminars and
much more. Take in rice-field views as you
Kou BEAUTY create a billion-dollar app.
(Map p252; % 0361-971905; Jl Dewi Sita; h 9am-
8pm) The perfume of luxurious locally hand- 88 Getting There & Away
made organic soaps wafts as you enter. Put
some in your undies drawer and it’ll smell BEMO
fine for weeks. The range is unlike that found Ubud is on two bemo routes. Bemos travel to
in chain stores selling luxe soap. It also op- Gianyar (10,000Rp) and Batubulan terminal
in Denpasar (13,000Rp). Ubud doesn’t have a
erates Kou Cuisine (Map p252; % 0361-972319;
bemo terminal; there are bemo stops on Jl Suwe-
Monkey Forest Rd; h 10am-8pm), which special- ta near the market in the centre of town.
ises in homemade jams.
TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
Ashitaba HOMEWARES
Perama (Map p252; % 0361-973316; www.
(Map p252; % 0361-464922; Jl Hanoman; h 10am- peramatours.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; h 9am-
8pm) Tenganan, the Aga village of east Bali, 9pm) is the major tourist-shuttle operator.
is where the beautiful rattan items sold here Destinations include Kuta (60,000Rp, two
are produced. Containers, bowls, purses and hours), Sanur (50,000Rp, one hour), Padangbai
more (from US$5) display the fine and intri- (75,000Rp, two hours), Lovina (125,000Rp,
cate weaving. three hours) and Amed (175,000Rp, 3½ hours).
26 4
88 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
South of Ubud
Taxis with the cartel from the airport to Ubud The roads between Ubud and south Bali are
cost 300,000Rp. A car with driver to the air- lined with little shops that make and sell
port will cost around 250,000Rp. The Perama handicrafts. Many visitors shop along the
(p263) shuttle leaves Ubud three times a day route as they head to and from Ubud, some-
(60,000Rp, two hours). times by the busload. Much of the craftwork,
though, is actually done in small workshops
BICYCLE and family compounds on quiet back roads.
Shops renting bikes have their cycles on display
along the main roads. Ubud Scooter Rental
(p264) is a good, central bet. Bedulu
Ba li S
CAR & MOTORCYCLE Bedulu was once the capital of a great king-
dom. The legendary Dalem Bedaulu ruled the
With numerous nearby attractions, many of
Pejeng dynasty from here, and was the last
A outh
G
Raya Ubud; bicycle/motorbike per day shifted several times after this, to Gelgel and
U
round
There are no metered taxis based in Ubud; those (Elephant Cave; Jl Raya Goa Gajah; adult/
that are honking their horns at you have usually child 15,000/7500Rp, parking motorcycle/car
dropped off passengers from southern Bali in 2000/5000Rp; h 8am-5.30pm) There were never
Ubud and are hoping for a fare back. Instead any elephants in Bali (until tourist attractions
you’ll use one of the ubiquitous drivers with changed that); ancient Goa Gajah probably
private vehicles hanging around on the streets takes its name from the nearby Sungai Peta-
hectoring passer-by (the better drivers politely nu, which at one time was known as Elephant
hold up signs that say ‘transport’). River, or perhaps because the face over the
Most of the drivers charge very fairly; a few – cave entrance might resemble an elephant. It’s
often from out of the area – not so much. If you located some 2km southeast of Ubud on the
find a driver you like, get their number and call road to Bedulu.
them for rides during your stay. From central The origins of the cave are uncertain; one
Ubud to, say, Sanggingan should cost about tale relates that it was created by the fingernail
50,000Rp, which is rather steep. A ride from
of the legendary giant Kebo Iwa. It probably
the palace to the end of Jl Hanoman should cost
about 30,000Rp. dates to the 11th century, and was certainly
in existence during the Majapahit takeover
It’s easy to get a ride on the back of a motor-
bike; rates are half those of cars. of Bali. The cave was rediscovered by Dutch
archaeologists in 1923, but the fountains and
pool were not found until 1954.
The cave is carved into a rock face and
AROUND UBUD you enter through the cavernous mouth of
% 0361 a demon. Inside the T-shaped cave you can
The immediate region surrounding Ubud see fragmentary remains of the lingam, the
has many of the most ancient monuments phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva, and
and relics in Bali. Some of them predate the its female counterpart the yoni, plus a statue
Majapahit era and raise as-yet unanswered of Shiva’s son, the elephant-headed god Gan-
questions about Bali’s history. Others are esha. In the courtyard in front of the cave are
more recent, and in other instances newer two square bathing pools with water trick-
structures have been built on and around the ling into them from waterspouts held by six
ancient remains. female figures.
From Goa Gajah you can clamber down
through the rice paddies to Sungai Petanu,
where there are crumbling rock carvings of
26 5
Ba li S
made on a tour.
Just seeing one of the world’s largest bamboo structures is an attraction in itself; toss
A outh
G
in getting to sample the chocolate – from raw cacao to the finished product – and you’ve
round
ett i ng
landed an all-round delectable experience.
Reaching the factory is easy as Sibang is on one of the roads linking Ubud to south
ofUTbud
Bali. A taxi here is around 100,000Rp, including waiting time.
here
U bud & Away
stupas (domes for housing Buddhist relics) on including rare cendrawasih (birds of paradise)
a cliff face, and a small cave. from West Papua and the all-but-vanished
Try to get here before 10am, which is when Bali starlings. Many are housed in special
the big tourist buses begin lumbering into walk-through aviaries; in one of the aviaries
the large souvenir-stall-filled parking lot like, you follow a walk at tree-level, or what some
well, elephants. with feathers might say is bird-level. A reptile
section includes a Komodo dragon. It’s pop-
Yeh Pulu HISTORIC SITE
ular with kids; allow at least two hours. It’s
(adult/child 15,000/7500Rp; h 8am-5.30pm) A
located in Batubulan, halfway between Ubud
man having his hand munched by a boar is and Denpasar.
one of the scenes on the 25m-long carved cliff
face known as Yeh Pulu, believed to be a her-
mitage from the late 14th century. Apart from Sukawati
the figure of Ganesha, the elephant-headed Sukawati is a centre for the manufacture of
son of Hindu god Shiva, most of the scenes wind chimes, temple umbrellas and masks.
deal with everyday life, although the position Wayang kulit and topeng (wooden masks
and movement of the figures suggest that it used in funerary dances) are also made
could be read from left to right as a story. One in the backstreets of Sukawati, about 1km
theory is that they are events from the life of northwest of the main road.
Krishna, the Hindu god.
Even if your interest in carved Hindu art is oSukawati Market MARKET
minor, this site is quite lovely and rarely will (Jl Raya Sukawati, Sukawati; h 6am-8pm) Sukawati
you have much company. From the entrance, Market is a highlight of any visit to the area.
it’s a 300m lush, tropical walk to Yeh Pulu. Always lively, this large market is a major
source of the flowers, baskets, fruits, knick-
88 Getting There & Away knacks and other items used in temple offer-
ings. It’s a riot of colour.
About 3km east of Teges, the road from Ubud
reaches a junction where you can turn south to
Gianyar or north to Pejeng, Tampaksiring and Pe- Mas
nelokan; for Bedulu follow the signs to Goa Gajah.
Mas means ‘gold’, but woodcarving, particu-
larly mask carving, is the craft practised here.
Bali Bird Park The road through Mas is lined with craft
Bali Bird Park BIRD SANCTUARY shops for the tour buses, but there are plenty
(% 0316-299352; www.bali-bird-park.com; Jl of smaller carving operations in the back
Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir; adult/child 2-12yr lanes.
432,000/216,000Rp; h 9am-5.30pm) More than The galleries become ever-more glitzy the
1000 birds from 250 species flit about here, further north and closer to Ubud you get.
266
1 Sights the Penelokan–Ubud road, and are only about
1.5km apart.
oSetia Darma House of
Masks & Puppets MUSEUM
(% 0361-898 7493; Jl Tegal Bingin; suggested do- Elephant Safari Park
nation 35,000Rp; h 8am-4pm) F This is Elephant Safari Park WILDLIFE RESERVE
one of the best museums in the Ubud area, (% 0361-721480; www.baliadventuretours.com;
home to more than 7000 ceremonial masks Taro; tours incl transport adult/child US$65/44;
and puppets from Bali, Indonesia, Asia and h 8am-6pm) Abandoned and abused logging
beyond. All are beautifully displayed in a elephants from Sumatra have been given ref-
series of renovated historic buildings. Among uge at this camp in the cool, wet highlands
the many treasures, look for the golden Jero of Taro (14km north of Ubud). Besides see-
Luh Mask, and the faces of royalty, mythical ing a full complement of exhibits about ele-
Ba li N
monsters and even common people. The mu- phants, you can ride one of 31 residents for
seum is about 2km northeast of the main Mas an extra fee. Be aware that animal welfare
E ast
S
Ba li B
famous for night surfing, with flood-
At the western end of Gianyar on the main lights erected by the Komune Bali
(% 0361-301 8888; www.komuneresorts.
E at
Ubud road you’ll find textile factories, includ-
ast
angl
ing the large Tenun Ikat Setia Cili (% 0361- com; Jl Pantai Keramas; r from US$90;
i ng
a W s ) surf resort. Only six surfers are
943409; Jl Astina Utara; h 9am-5pm) and Cap
Bial i
Togog (% 0361-943046; Jl Astina Utara 11; h 8am- allowed out at a time, and you’ll need to
5pm). Both are on the main drag west of the book in advance (US$24 per hour; 8pm
centre, about 500m apart. The latter has a fas- to 10pm).
cinating production area below it; follow the
sound of dozens of clacking wooden looms. with a kulkul (hollow tree-trunk drum used
to sound a warning) entwined in its branches.
88 Getting There & Away The inner courtyard has an 11-roof meru
Regular bemos run between Batubulan terminal (multi-tiered shrine), and there are other
near Denpasar and Gianyar’s main terminal shrines with thrones for the Hindu trinity:
(15,000Rp), which is behind the main market. Be- Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. The carvings are
mos to and from Ubud (10,000Rp) use the bemo particularly intricate. See if you can count all
stop across the road from the main market. 43 altars.
A driver from Ubud will charge 120,000Rp,
including waiting time, for a night-market excur- Pura Dalem Penunggekan HINDU TEMPLE
sion. It’s a 20-minute drive. (Jl Merdeka) F The exterior wall of this
fascinating temple of the dead features vivid
relief carvings of evil-doers getting their just
Bangli deserts in the afterlife. One panel addresses
% 0366 the lurid fate of adulterers (men in particular
Halfway up the slope to Penelokan, Bangli may find the viewing uncomfortable). Other
was once the capital of a kingdom. Nowadays panels portray sinners as monkeys, while
it’s a humble market town noteworthy for its another is a good representation of sinners
sprawling temple, Pura Kehen, which is on a begging to be spared the fires of hell. It’s 3km
beautiful jungle road that runs east past rice south of the centre of Bangli.
terraces and connects at Sekar with roads to
Rendang and Sidemen.
Semarapura (Klungkung)
1 Sights % 0366
A tidy regional capital, Semarapura should
oPura Kehen HINDU TEMPLE
be on your itinerary for its fascinating Kertha
(adult/child incl sarong 30,000Rp/free; h 9am-
Gosa complex, a relic of Bali from the time
5pm) The state temple of the Bangli kingdom,
before the Dutch. Once the centre of Bali’s
Pura Kehen is one of the finest temples in
most important kingdom, Semarapura is still
eastern Bali; it is a miniature version of Pura
commonly called by its old name, Klungkung.
Besakih, Bali’s most important temple. It’s
It’s a good place to stroll and get a feel for
terraced up the hillside, with a flight of steps
modern Balinese life. The markets are large,
leading to the beautifully decorated entrance.
the shops many and the streets are reason-
The first courtyard has a huge banyan tree
ably calm.
26 8
East Bali
#
\ e 0
# 0
10 km
5 miles
Yeh Sanih D
(10km) #
\ Tejakula
#
\
B A L I
Su
S E A
Penginyahan
ng
Tembok
ai
#
\ #
\
Kembangsari Gunung Penulisan
Da
#
\
R (1745m)
Dusa \
ya
#
#
\
Toya Bungkah #
\ Kubu
Kintamani \
# #
\
Batur \# Danau
Ba li S
.
# Batur
Peludu \
R Tulamben \
# Ý
# Liberty
Pelaga
#
Penelokan Gunung Abang
#
\
#
\ (2152m) Kubu
E ast
#
\
nu
iemarapura
#
Wo
Daya Agung
ghts
#
\
# Nungnung
ai eta
\
# \ nda
Amed Jemeluk
gai
(3142m)
P
# \
#
Dalah \ \
ehu
S un
R
B al i
#
\
Penyabangan Pura # #
\
Bunutan
Culik
g
\
#
Besakih Lebih
Sungai Y
n
#
\ #
\
Sandakan Pura
Su
#
\
Gunung Lipah\ #
#Þ
# \ #
\
#
\ #
\
#
#
\ \ LempuyangÞ
# Pasar #
\ Pidpid \
#
#
\
#
\
Petang Belong Besakih (1058m) Lehan Aas
#
\
Abang Agung
R
a
R Gunung
#
\
da
j
( K lungkung)
wa
Seraya
Un
#
\
#
\ Menanga \ #
Tirta Gangga
aga
#
\ #
Ceking Sibetan # Amlapura
n
#
\ ^
#Duda
ai
risa
Sekar Bangli
#
\ \ #
\
Subagan
ng
i #
\
ga
#
\ #
\
Tegallalang \ #
\ #
\
Iseh Putung Tenganan \ #
Su
# Ujung
Sung ai Pake
# \
#
\ Demulih
Sun
#
\ Su Buu
#Teluk Penyu
Payogan \ Bukit \
# #
\
Sidemen Manggis Pura \ ng
# #
\ #
\
Perasi
San
ai
Jambal Tabola #
\
Gamang Pasir
Sayan \
# # Ubud
\ Pass c Putih
gai
Pura #Tanah #
\
# Gili Biaha
Candidasa Ù
\
Nyuhkuning
#
\
Pejeng Ampo
Be
\ \
Lawah \ Teluk Amuk Gili Tepekong
Þ
#
D
#
#
\
#
\
#
\ f
# Padangbai
Gianyar Pura \ Þ
#
Sibang Mas \ # #
Banda Lawah Lombok
Dalem #
\
# Coast Rd Kusamba
#
\
#
\ Lebih \# Þ (40km)
\
# Pura #
\ Siyut Pura Batu
#
\ Sukawati
# Segara Ù # Klotek
#
\
\
Þ
# Selat
#
\ Celuk \# Ù
# Lombok
Ketewel ç # Lebih Beach
#
\
#
\
Pantai Saba Beach
Batubulan Keramas Selat
Badung
^
#
Denpasar : :
Nusa Jungutbatu # Sampalan
# Sanur #: \
#
\
\
Lembongan \ #
\
Toyapakeh
#
\
Tegalwagni : :
Nusa : Nusa Penida
Ù
# : Ù
Ceningan #:
Ù
#
#
\ #
\ #
\
#
\
#
\
Ù
# 1 Sights square, is all that remains of the palace itself
– check out its carvings.
oKlungkung Palace HISTORIC BUILDING
Two important buildings are preserved in
(Jl Puputan; adult/child 12,000/6000Rp; h 6am-
a restored section of the grounds, and, along
6pm) When the Dewa Agung dynasty moved
with a museum, they comprise the remains
here in 1710, the Semara Pura was estab-
of the palace complex.
lished. The palace was laid out as a large
square, believed to be in the form of a man- ¨¨Kertha Gosa
dala, with courtyards, gardens, pavilions and (Hall of Justice) In the northeastern corner
moats. The complex is sometimes referred to of the complex, the Kertha Gosa was ef-
as Taman Gili (Island Garden). Most of the fectively the supreme court of the Klung-
original palace and grounds were destroyed kung kingdom, where disputes and cas-
by the 1908 Dutch attacks; the Pemedal es that could not be settled at the vil-
Agung, the gateway on the south side of the lage level were eventually brought. This
open-sided pavilion is a superb example of
269
Klungkung architecture. The ceiling is It’s grimy, yes, but also endlessly fascinating.
completely covered with fine paintings in Huge straw baskets of lemons, limes, toma-
the Klungkung style. The paintings, done toes and other produce are islands of colour
on asbestos sheeting, were installed in the amid the chaos. A plethora of locally made
1940s, replacing cloth paintings that had snacks are offered in profusion; try several.
deteriorated.
The rows of ceiling panels depict several 88 Getting There & Away
themes. The lowest level illustrates five tales The best way to visit Semarapura is with your
from Bali’s answer to the Arabian Nights, own transport and as part of a circuit taking in
where a girl called Tantri spins a different other sites up the mountains and along the coast.
yarn every night. The next two rows are If you’re lucky, a bemo from Denpasar (Batu-
scenes from Bima’s travels in the afterlife, bulan terminal) may pass through Semarapura
where he witnesses the torment of evil-doers.
Ba li S
(13,000Rp) on the way to points further east.
The gruesome tortures are shown clearly, but They can be hailed from near the Puputan Monu-
there are different interpretations of which ment, but don’t count on it.
E ast
G iett
punishment goes with what crime. (There’s an
demen
authoritative explanation in The Epic of Life
Sidemen Road
iBng
– A Balinese Journey of the Soul by Idanna
al TR
Pucci, available for reference in the pavilion.) % 0366
i here
The fourth row of panels depicts the story of Winding through one of Bali’s most beautiful
breakfast US$65-156; Ws ) An attractive bou- largest and most important being Pura Penat-
tique inn with sweeping views over the rice aran Agung. Unfortunately, many people find
BBal
AN UNHOLY EXPERIENCE
So intrusive are the scams and irritations faced by visitors to Pura Besakih that many
wish they had skipped the complex altogether. What follows are some of the ploys you
should be aware of before a visit.
¨¨Near the main parking area at the bottom of the hill is a ‘guide’ office, where guides
hang around looking for visitors. Guides here may emphatically tell you that you need
their services and quote a ridiculously high price of US$25 for a short visit. You don’t
need them: you may walk freely and independently among the temples, and no ‘guide’
can get you into a closed temple.
¨¨Other ‘guides’ may foist their services on you throughout your visit. There have been
reports of people agreeing to a guide’s services only to be hit with a huge fee at the end.
¨¨Once inside the complex, you may receive offers to ‘come pray with me’. Visitors who
seize on this chance to get into a forbidden temple can face demands of 100,000Rp or
more.
271
You will find that it’s most enjoyable between December and April. Salak are the
during one of the frequent festivals, when spiky low palm trees you’ll see, and the fruit
hundreds or even thousands of gorgeously grows in clusters at the base of the trunks.
dressed devotees turn up with beautifully Sibetan is also able to be visited as part of a
arranged offerings. Note that tourists are not recommended cultural tour with JED (Village
allowed inside this temple. Ecotourism Network; % 0361-366 9951; www.jed.
or.id; day trips US$75, overnight stays US$125).
88 Information
The temple’s main ticket office is 2km south
of the complex on the road from Menanga and Gunung Agung
the south. Admission is 15,000/10,000Rp Bali’s highest and most revered mountain,
per adult/child plus sarong rental 10,000Rp Gunung Agung is an imposing peak seen
and 5000Rp per vehicle. Pay no more than
Ba li R
from most of south and east Bali, although
50,000Rp for a guide. it’s often obscured by cloud and mist. Many
About 200m past the ticket office, there is a sources say it’s 3142m high, but some say it
E ast
Informat
fork in the road with a sign indicating Besakih
endang
lost its summit in the 1963 eruption. The sum-
to the right and Kintamani to the left. Go left,
mit is an oval crater, about 700m across, with
because going to the right puts you in the main
B al i to
parking area at the bottom of a hill some 300m its highest point on the western edge above
from the complex. Going past the road to Kin- Besakih.
¨¨Take frequent rests and don’t be afraid to ask your guide to slow down.
E ast
S leep
usamba
It’s possible to climb Agung from various di- making huts can be seen along the beach.
al i to Padangba i
Padangbai e
# 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D
Teluk Jepun
D
(750m)
1
#9
ÿ 1
1
Ù
#
1 1
1 1
1 1 1 1 1
Eka Jaya
1 Cemetery
1 1 1 1
1 1 1 7 6 11
f
#
æ1 1 1 Gilicat
# p#
# p ÿ
#
Jl S
i
ukt 21 1 1 1 f
#
1 1
ilay
4444444 il
Ba li Padangba
Jl S
ayu
5
Jl
2 2
kti
Si
Main Road Þ
# yu
la
.
# f
# Boats to Nusa Penida kt
E ast
A
Ga
(2km) i
ct i vBi tal
4444444
ng
D
# Fast Boats
Se
f
gar
to Gili Islands
ga
4#
Þ
Jl
12
ra
Se
Pe
i es
4444444
þ
#
I
l ab
Jl
i i
a
uh
ar
# 10
ÿ
eg *
›
#
an
*
S
Perama .
*
*
Ga
›
#
4444444
#
3 3
*
Vehicle f
#
g
un
Ticket
Ag
Office
n
ara
n at
#3
ß
Pe
Jl Pier
D#8
ÿ Lombok
Pura Desa
D
(70km)
4 (100m) 4
Selat
Lombok
Nusa Penida
D
(17km)
A B C D
Padangbai
æ Sights ÿ Sleeping
1 Blue Lagoon Beach..................................D1 8 Bamboo Paradise ....................................A4
2 Central Market ........................................ B2 9 Bloo Lagoon Village................................. D1
3 Mosque..................................................... A3 10 Fat Barracuda ..........................................B3
4 Pura Dalem .............................................. A2 11 Topi Inn .....................................................C2
5 Pura Segara ............................................. B2
ú Eating
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Topi Inn ............................................ (see 11)
6 Geko Dive ................................................. C2
7 Water Worx.............................................. C2 þ Shopping
12 Ryan Shop ................................................B3
One of the best and most accessible walk- (% 0363-41424; www.topiinn.nl; Jl Silayukti; dm/r
Ba li Padangba
in snorkel sites sits off Blue Lagoon Beach. from 60,000/150,000Rp; iW ) Sitting at the
Note that it is subject to strong currents east end of the strip in a serene location, Topi
E ast
S
have any room on their dive boats (the cost is a popular restaurant downstairs, plus var-
around 350,000Rp). Snorkel sets cost about ious workshops on offer; find details on the
30,000Rp per day to rent. website.
Local jukung (boats) offer snorkelling oBloo Lagoon Village HOTEL $$
trips (bring your own gear) around Padang (% 0363-41211; www.bloolagoon.com; Jl Silayukti;
bai (90,000Rp per person per hour) and as r incl breakfast from US$140; aWs ) S While
far away as Nusa Lembongan (500,000Rp for far from five-star, the open-air, self-contained
two passengers). bungalows that overlook Blue Lagoon Beach
Geko Dive DIVING are incredible value. Designed in traditional
(% 0363-41516; www.gekodive.com; Jl Silayukti) Set thatched style, they’re full of character. Styl-
up by a friendly, experienced Aussie diver, ish units come with one, two or three bed-
Geko is the longest-established operator in rooms. Yoga classes (inclusive in rates) are
town. Its base is just across from the beach, held in a space with inspiring ocean views,
and has a sandy-floored cafe. and good-value diving packages are available.
An inviting lagoon pool is another highlight.
Water Worx DIVING
(% 0363-41220; www.waterworxbali.com; Jl Si- Topi Inn CAFE $
mostly what’s on offer in Padangbai – lots of (% 0363-41215; Jl Segara 38; h 8am-8pm) The
fresh seafood, Indonesian classics, pizza and, perennial pleasures of the Ryan Shop can’t be
yes, banana pancakes. underestimated. It has good used paperbacks
and sundries.
Bamboo Paradise GUESTHOUSE $
(% 0822 6630 4330; www.bambooparadisebali. 88 Information
com; Jl Penataran Agung; dm incl breakfast with
There are several ATMs around town.
air-con 95,000Rp, r incl breakfast with fan/air-con
2 75
88 Getting There & Away Candidasa. Although the beach has all but
vanished and unsightly sea walls have been
BEMO constructed, this area is a good choice for a
Padangbai is 2km south of the main quiet getaway if you have your own transport.
Semarapura−Amlapura road. If you’re lucky, Think views, breezes and a good book.
but it’s unlikely, there will be a bemo leaving
from the car park in front of the port; some go
east via Candidasa to Amlapura (10,000Rp);
4 Sleeping & Eating
others go west to Semarapura (10,000Rp). oAmarta Beach Cottages HOTEL $
(% 0363-41230; www.amartabeachcottages.
BOAT com; Jl Raya Mendira, Mendira; d incl breakfast with
There are two options for travel between Bali and fan/air-con from 400,0000/500,000Rp, ste from
Lombok and the Gilis: fast boats or public ferry. 800,000Rp; aiWs ) In a panoramic seaside
Be sure to consider important safety informa-
Ba li Padangba
setting, the rooms here are right on the water
tion. Boats also head to Nusa Lembongan.
¨¨ Public ferries (child/adult/motorbike/car
and are good value. The more expensive ones
have modern style and open-air bathrooms.
E ast
G
29,000/44,000/123,000/879,000Rp, four
ett iBng
hours) travel between Padangbai and Lembar The delightful Sea Side restaurant (mains
(Lombok) every hour from 5am to 3pm. Pas- from 40,000Rp; h 8am-10pm; W ) looks out to
senger tickets are sold near the pier. Note that Nusa Penida – it’s a great choice for lunch,
al Ti here
these boats don’t have the best safety record, whether you are staying here or not.
i to C&and
and have in the past caught on fire and run
aground. Candi Beach Resort & Spa RESORT $$$
¨¨ Fast boats to the Gilis (one way 660,000Rp (% 0363-41234; www.candibeachbali.com; Jl Raya
to 700,000Rp, 1½ hours) and Nusa Lembongan Mendira, Mendira; r incl breakfast $US130-330;
Away
(300,000Rp, 30 minutes) are a safer option. aWs ) This large beach resort has 84 com-
i dasa
Most prices include hotel transfer from south fortable rooms and cute individual bunga-
Bali. lows. The pool has a nice beige-stone look,
Eka Jaya (% 0361-849 6222; www.baliekajaya. framed by the sea view and palm trees, and
com) A reputable fast-boat company running is located just up from a semi-decent beach.
three morning services to the Gili Islands (one The much-lauded Bali Conservancy (% 0822
way/return 660,000/1,200,000Rp) and an 3739 8415; www.bali-conservancy.com; walks from
afternoon boat to Nusa Lembongan (one way/ adult/child US$40/30) runs nature tours in con-
return 300,000/550,000Rp, 30 minutes). junction with the hotel.
Gilicat (% 0363-41441; www.gilicat.com;
Made’s Homestay, Jl Silayukti) The most estab-
lished of the fast-boat operators has an office
at the waterfront. Trips to the Gili Islands cost Tenganan
adult/child one way 700,000/490,000Rp. Step back several centuries with a visit to
Tenganan, home of the Bali Aga people – the
TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
descendants of the original Balinese who in-
Perama (% 0363-41419; Jl Pelabuhan; h 7am- habited Bali before the Majapahit arrival in
8pm) services destinations around the east
the 11th century.
coast including Candidasa (35,000Rp, 30
minutes), Kuta (75,000Rp, three hours), Sanur The Bali Aga are reputed to be exception-
(75,000Rp, two hours), Ubud (75,000Rp, two ally conservative and resistant to change.
hours) and Amed (100,000Rp, 2½ hours). Well, that’s only partially true: TVs and other
modern conveniences are hidden away in the
traditional houses. But it is fair to say that
Padangbai to Candidasa the village has a much more traditional feel
than most other villages in Bali. Cars and
It’s 11km along the main road from the
motorcycles are forbidden from entering. It
Padangbai turn-off to the tourist town of Can-
should also be noted that this is a real village,
didasa. Between the two towns is an attrac-
not a creation for tourists.
tive stretch of coast, which has some tourist
The most striking feature of Tenganan is
development and a large oil-storage depot in
its postcard-like beauty, with the hills pro-
Teluk Amuk.
viding a photogenic backdrop to its setting.
Coming from the west, there are hotels
The compact 500m by 250m village is sur-
and guesthouses well off the main road at
rounded by a wall, and basically consists of
Mendira, about 2.5km before you reach
two rows of identical houses stretching up
2 76
the gentle slope of a hill. As you enter the While Candidasa lacks a decent beach,
village (10,000Rp donation) through one of fortunately nearby Pasir Putih (p279) is a
only three gates, you’ll likely be greeted by wonderful spot to hang out for the day.
a guide who will take you on a tour – and
generally lead you back to their family com- 2 Activities
pound to look at textiles and lontar strips Gili Tepekong has a series of coral heads at
(specially prepared palm leaves). However, the top of a sheer drop-off and is the best lo-
there’s no pressure to buy anything. cal dive site. It offers the chance to see lots
A peculiar, old-fashioned version of the of fish, including some larger marine life, but
gamelan known as the gamelan selunding it’s recommended for experienced divers only.
is still played here, and girls dance an equal- Hotels rent snorkel sets for about
ly ancient dance known as the Rejang. There 30,000Rp per day. For the best snorkelling,
are other Bali Aga villages nearby, including
Ba li C
88 Getting There & Away sa; dives from US$90) Best option in town for
the local area or nearby sites such as Penida.
Tenganan is 3.2km up a side road just west of
The Intro to Diving course is an excellent deal:
Candidasa. At the turn-off where bemos stop,
motorcycle riders offer rides on ojeks (motor- US$90 gets you a dive with basic instruction
cycles that take passengers) to the village for followed by a supervised fun dive. It’s a great
about 25,000Rp. A nice option is to take an ojek way to see if diving is for you. Night dives to
up to Tenganan, and enjoy a shady downhill walk the Liberty wreck are available, as are snor-
back to the main road, which has a Bali rarity: kelling trips (US$30).
wide footpaths.
oTrekking Candidasa WALKING TOUR
(% 0878 6145 2001; www.trekkingcandidasa.com;
Candidasa walks from 250,000Rp) The delightful Somat
% 0363
leads walks through the verdant hills behind
Candidasa is a relaxed spot on the route east, Candidasa. One popular route takes 90 min-
with hotels and some decent restaurants. utes and follows rice-field paths to Tenganan.
However, it also has problems stemming
from decisions made three decades ago that 4 Sleeping & Eating
should serve as cautionary notes to any previ- Candidasa’s busy main drag is well supplied
ously undiscovered place that suddenly finds with seaside accommodation, as well as res-
itself on the map. taurants and other tourist facilities. Quieter
Until the 1970s, Candidasa was just a quiet places can be found east of the centre along
little fishing village, then beachside losmen Jl Pantai Indah. These are nicely relaxed and
(budget accommodation) and restaurants often have a sliver of beach.
sprang up, and suddenly it was the new beach
Rama Shinta Hotel HOTEL $
sensation in Bali. As the facilities developed,
(% 0363-41778; www.ramashintahotel.com; off
the beach eroded – unthinkingly, offshore
Jl Raya Candidasa; r incl breakfast 400,000-
barrier-reef corals were harvested to produce
600,000Rp; aWs ) On a little lane near the
lime for cement in the orgy of construction
lagoon and ocean, Rama Shinta’s 15 rooms are
that took place – and by the late 1980s Candi-
split between a two-storey stone structure and
dasa was a beach resort with no beach.
bungalows. They’ve been nicely updated with
Mining stopped in 1991, and concrete sea
outdoor bathrooms. It’s worth upgrading to
walls and breakwaters have limited erosion
an upstairs room for views of the lagoon and
and now provide some tiny pockets of sand.
its birdlife. The pool area is an inviting spot
The relaxed seaside ambience and sweeping
for lounging.
views from the hotels built right on the water
appeal to a more mature crowd of visitors. Ari Home Stay GUESTHOUSE $
Candidasa is a good base from which to ex- (% 0817 970 7339; www.arihomestay.com; Jl Raya
plore the interior of east Bali on a walk; it’s Candidasa; r with fan/air-con 150,000/300,000Rp;
also a place to spend some quiet time. aW ) Run by the ebullient Gary and his
277
Candidasa e
# 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D
D 2
ÿ
# ›
# Perama
Sea Side
1 (1.5km); 1
Candi Beach Resort 5
& Spa (2km); ÿ
# Jl R Pasir
4 aya ú#
Putih (8km);
Amarta Beach C
Cottages (2km) # andida
p 6 Uforia (10km)
sa
1 ú
#
Jl P
D
an
Lagoon Inda tai
Ba li C
h
2 Teluk Amuk 2
ÿ
#
E ast
Informat
3
and iBdasa
A B C D
al i i on
Candidasa a large and lovely rear garden with rattan fur-
to A mlapura
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
niture. The bar is an oasis of jazz. The menu
1 Dive Lite ................................................. C1 combines excellent and inventive Balinese,
fresh seafood and European dishes. Thursday
ÿ Sleeping evenings there’s live music.
2 Ari Home Stay ....................................... A1
3 Rama Shinta Hotel................................D2 Crazy Kangaroo PUB FOOD $$
4 Seaside Cottages.................................. B1 (% 0363-41996; www.crazy-kangaroo.com; Jl Raya
Candidasa; mains 40,000-120,000Rp; h 10am-late;
ú Eating W ) Wild by local standards, this pub is full
5 Crazy Kangaroo .................................... C1 of characters propped up at the bar to watch
6 Vincent's ................................................ D1 sports on the telly, shooting pool or grabbing
a feed. The food is good, cooked in an open
kitchen that mixes Western and local dishes
family, Ari Home Stay has rooms that ramble with tasty seafood specials. There are often
over the compound, and range from cold- performances in the evening, from fire danc-
water with fans to air-con with hot water. Its ing to live music.
position on the main road across from the
water isn’t ideal, but very cold beer is always 88 Information
available and there’s a pleasurable shack hot- Candidasa has many ATMs.
dog restaurant, too.
Seaside Cottages GUESTHOUSE $
88 Getting There & Away
(% 0363-41629; www.balibeachfront-cottages.com; Candidasa is on the main road between Amlapu-
Jl Raya Candidasa; cottages 190,000-550,000Rp; ra and south Bali, but there’s no terminal, so hail
aiW ) A well-established, popular choice, bemos, as buses probably won’t stop. You’ll need
the 15 rooms here are in cottages and span the to change in either Padangbai or Semarapura
going west.
gamut from cold-water basic with ineffectual
fans, to restful units with air-con and trop- Perama (% 0363-41114; Jl Raya Candidasa;
h 7am-7pm) is at the western end of the
ical bathrooms. The seafront has loungers
strip. Shuttle-bus destinations include Kuta
right along the breakwater. The Temple Café (75,000Rp, three hours), Sanur (75,000Rp, 2½
is a well-regarded restaurant; eat there or hours) and Ubud (75,000Rp, two hours).
dine on tables set along the water.
oVincent’s INTERNATIONAL $$
(% 0363-41368; www.vincentsbali.com; Jl Raya Can- Candidasa to Amlapura
didasa; meals 60,000-150,000Rp; h 8am-11pm; W ) The main road east of Candidasa curves up to
One of east Bali’s classiest restaurants, Vin- Pura Gamang Pass (gamang means ‘to get
cent’s has several distinct open-air rooms, and dizzy’ – an overstatement), from where you’ll
2 78
find fine views down to the coast and lots of mission allowed the kingdom to hang on long
greedy-faced monkeys. If you walk along the after the demise of other Balinese kingdoms.
coastline from Candidasa towards Amlapura, Inside you’ll see several rooms, including
a trail climbs up over the headland, offering the royal bedroom and a living room with
fine views over the rocky islets off the coast. furniture that was a gift from the Dutch roy-
Beyond this headland there’s a long sweep of al family. The Maskerdam faces the ornately
wide, exposed black-sand beach. decorated Bale Pemandesan, which was used
for royal tooth-filing ceremonies. Beyond
2 Activities this, surrounded by a pond, is the Bale Kam-
oUforia TOUR
bang, still used for family meetings and for
(% 0363-21687; www.balichocolate.com; Jl Pura Mas- dance practice.
tima, Karangaasem; h 9am-noon & 2-5pm) Uforia Borrow one of the handy English-language
info sheets and think about what this com-
Ba li A
dients. The tours (held from June to August) century, having conquered Lombok. Don’t
miss the vintage photos.
i vBi tal
PALACE
tions. Each Saturday you can take part in a
i
(Amsterdam), because it was built by the (admission 20,000Rp, parking 2000Rp; h site 24hr,
Dutch as a reward for the Karangasem king- ticket office 7am-6pm) Amlapura’s water-loving
dom’s acquiescence to Dutch rule. This sub- rajah, after completing his lost masterpiece
at Ujung, had another go at building the
279
PASIR PUTIH
The most popular ‘secret’ beach on Bali, Pasir Putih (aka Dream Beach, aka Virgin
Beach) is an idyllic white-sand beach whose name indeed means ‘White Sand’. When we
first visited in 2004, it was empty, save for a row of fishing boats at one end. Now it’s an
ongoing lab in seaside economic development.
A dozen thatched beach warungs (food stalls) and cafes now line the sand. You can
get nasi goreng (fried rice) or grilled fish. Bintang is of course on ice and loungers await
bikini-clad bottoms. The beach itself is truly lovely: a long crescent of white sand backed
by coconut trees. At one end cliffs provide shade. The surf is often mellow; you can rent
snorkelling gear to explore the waters.
Ba li T
The one thing saving Pasir Putih from being swamped is the difficult access. Look for
crude signs with the various monikers near the village of Perasi. Turn off the main road (8km
east of Candidasa) and follow a pretty paved track for about 1.5km to a temple, where locals
E iast
A ct
will collect a fee for entry (3000Rp per person) and parking (10,000Rp per vehicle).
rta
i vBiGtal
water palace of his dreams in 1948. He suc- tours from 250,000/300,000Rp) Ride downhill
angga
i es
i
ceeded at Taman Tirta Gangga, which has a through the simply gorgeous rice fields, ter-
stunning crescent of rice-terrace-lined hills races and river valleys around Tirta Gangga
for a backdrop. with this grassroots tour company. Itineraries
This multilevel aquatic fantasy features last from two to four hours, and include use
two swimming ponds that are popular on of a mountain bike and helmet, water and
weekends, and ornamental water features plenty of local encounters. The office is at
filled with huge koi and lotus blossoms, which Homestay Rijasa, across from the Tirta Gang-
serve as a fascinating reminder of the old days ga entrance. Book in advance.
of the Balinese rajahs. Look for the 11-tiered
meru fountain, and plop down under the 4 Sleeping & Eating
huge old banyans and enjoy the views. You can overnight in luxury in old royal quar-
ters overlooking the water palace, or lodge in
2 Activities humble surrounds in anticipation of an early-
Hiking in the surrounding hills is recom- morning hike.
mended: the rice terraces around Tirta Gang-
ga are some of the most beautiful in Bali. Back Pondok Lembah Dukah GUESTHOUSE $
roads and walking paths take you to many (% 0813 3829 5142; [email protected]; s/d/f
picturesque traditional villages, or you can 150,000/200,000/350,000Rp) Atop a hill with
ascend the side of Gunung Agung. Guides divine views over the rice fields, this guest-
are a good idea. Ask at your accommodation, house has charming bungalows. Rooms are
especially Homestay Rijasa. A local guide who basic but a stay here is a good chance to get
comes with good marks is Komang Gede close to local life. It’s a 10-minute walk from
Sutama (% 0813 3877 0893). Guide rates aver- the palace, down the path to the right of
age about 75,000Rp per hour for one or two Good Karma guesthouse; follow the signs for
people. 300m along the rice field and then up a steep
Among the possible hikes is a walk to Pura set of steps.
Lempuyang, one of Bali’s nine directional Homestay Rijasa HOMESTAY $
temples, perched on a hilltop on the side of (% 0363-21873; Jl Tirta Gangga; s/d incl breakfast
Gunung Lempuyang (1058m); it’s around 1½ from 100,000/150,000Rp; W ) With elaborately
hours’ walk from Tirta Gangga. Another hike planted grounds, this well-run homestay is
is a six-hour loop to Tenganan village, and located opposite the water palace entrance.
there are shorter ones across the local hills, Expect to pay around double the price for
which include visits to remote temples and rooms with hot water, which is good for the
all the stunning vistas you can handle. large soaking tubs. It has a fantastic little
warung at the front.
oBung Bung Adventure
Biking BICYCLE TOUR Tirta Ayu Hotel HOTEL $$
(% 0813 3840 2132, 0363-21873; bungbungbike (% 0363-22503; www.hoteltirtagangga.com; Pura
[email protected]; Tirta Gangga; half-/full-day Tirta Gangga; villas incl breakfast US$125-200;
280
aWs ) Right in the palace compound, this al slopes and drop-offs with soft and hard
hotel has two pleasant villas and three rooms corals, and abundant fish. Some sites are ac-
that have plenty of royal decor. Enjoy the ho- cessible from the beach, while others require
tel’s private pool or use the vast palace facil- a short boat ride. The Liberty wreck at Tu-
ities. The restaurant (mains from 65,000Rp; h lamben is only a 20-minute drive away.
7am-9pm) is a tad upscale and serves creative Several dive operators have shown a com-
takes on local classics, which come with great mitment to the communities by organising
water-palace views. regular beach clean-ups and educating locals
on the need for conservation. All operators
88 Getting There & Away have similar prices for a long list of offer-
Having your own transport is by far the best ings (eg local dives from about US$80 and
means. Unreliable bemos and minibuses open-water dive courses from about US$400).
Ba li A
% 0363 Hiking
Ti here
Stretching from Amed to Bali’s far eastern Quite a few trails go inland from the coast,
Far &E ast
tip, this semi-arid coast draws visitors with up the slopes of Gunung Seraya (1175m) and
its succession of small, scalloped, grey-sand to some little-visited villages. The countryside
beaches (some more rocks than sand), a re- is sparsely vegetated and most trails are well
AwayC oast
laxed atmosphere and excellent diving and defined, so you won’t need a guide for shorter
snorkelling. walks; if you get lost, just follow a ridge-top
The coast here is often called simply ‘Amed’ back down to the coast road. Allow a good
but this is a misnomer, as the coast is a series three hours to get to the top of Seraya, start-
of seaside dusun (small villages) that starts ing from the rocky ridge just east of Jemeluk
with the actual Amed in the north and then Bay; ask for directions. Sunrise is spectacular
runs southeast to Aas. Everything is spread but requires a climb in the dark; ask at your
out, so you never feel like you’re in the middle hotel about a guide.
of anything, though each township certainly
has plenty of signs of a low-key tourist scene. 4 Sleeping
Traditionally this area has been quite poor, The Amed region is very spread out, so take
with thin soils, low rainfall and very limited this into consideration when choosing accom-
infrastructure. Salt production is still carried modation. You will also need to choose be-
out on the beach at Amed. Villages further tween staying in the little beachside villages or
east rely on fishing, and colourful jukung on the sunny and dry headlands connecting
(traditional boats) line up on every available the inlets. The former puts you right on the
piece of beach. Inland, the steep hillsides are sand and offers a small amount of community
generally too dry for rice; corn, peanuts and life while the latter gives you broad, sweeping
vegetables are the main crops. vistas and isolation.
2 Activities 4 Jemeluk
Diving & Snorkelling
Snorkelling is excellent along the coast. You might say what’s now called Amed start-
Jemeluk is a protected area where you can ed here.
admire live coral and plentiful fish within
Hoky Home Stay & Cafe HOMESTAY $
100m of the beach. There are a few bits of
(% 0819 1646 3701; [email protected]; Jemeluk;
wood remaining from a sunken Japanese
r incl breakfast 200,000Rp; W ) This place near
fishing boat at Banyuning – just offshore
the beach offers great cheap rooms with fans
from Eka Purnama bungalows – and you’ll
and hot water. The owner, Made, is tuned in
find coral gardens and colourful marine life
to budget travellers’ needs. The cafe (mains
at Selang. Snorkelling equipment rents for
25,000Rp; h 8am-10pm) has fresh and creative
about 30,000Rp per day.
local foods, especially seafood. Bikes for rent
Diving is also good, with dive sites off
(30,000Rp per day).
Jemeluk, Lipah and Selang featuring cor-
28 1
Galang Kangin Bungalows GUESTHOUSE $ oceanfront villa hotel verges on elegant. Cer-
(% 0363-23480; [email protected]; tainly it has the best beach in Amed. The 10
Jemeluk; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from units have large patios and the grounds are
300,000/500,000Rp; aW ) Set on the hill side lined with palm trees, including one growing
of the road amid a nice garden, the 10 rooms from its own island in the pool. There’s a two-
here mix and match fans, cold water, hot water night minimum stay in high season.
and air-con. The modern air-con rooms open
to the beach, while the fan rooms across the
road have a more traditional, ornate Balinese
4 Aas
style. The last community of any size on the road
from Amed, Aas is very quiet.
4 Bunutan oMeditasi GUESTHOUSE $
Ba li A
These places are on a sun-drenched, arid (% 0828 372 2738; www.meditasibungalows.
stretch of highland. blogspot.com; Aas; r 300,000-500,000Rp) Get
E at
off the grid at this chilled-out and charm-
ast
med
oWawa-Wewe II HOTEL $$ ing hideaway. Meditation and yoga help you
i ng
(% 0363-23522; www.bali-wawawewe.com; Bunu- relax, and the eight rooms are well situated
B&al
tan; r incl breakfast 400,000-700,000Rp; aWs ) for good swimming and snorkelling. By far
&the
This restful place has 10 bungalow-style the best bet are the villa-style bungalows,
iD r iFar
rooms on lush grounds that shamble down complete with private garden, open-air bath-
nk i ng
to the water’s edge. The natural-stone infinity rooms and balconies with superb sea views.
pool is shaped like a Buddha and is near the Elizabeth Gilbert, author of Eat, Pray, Love,
E ast C oast
sea, as are two rooms with fine ocean views. stayed in room 7.
Santai HOTEL $$
(% 0363-23487; www.santaibali.com; Bunutan
5 Eating & Drinking
Beach; r incl breakfast US$87-163; aWs ) This Most accommodation also has a cafe.
lovely option is set on a slight hill down to the oWarung Enak BALINESE $
beach. The name means ‘relax’, and that’s just (% 0819 1567 9019; Jemeluk; mains from 50,000Rp;
what you’ll do here. A series of authentic tra- h 9am-11pm) Black rice pudding and other
ditional thatched bungalows gathered from less-common local treats are the specialities
around the archipelago holds 10 rooms with of this dead-simple and supertasty little eat-
four-poster beds, open-air bathrooms and ery. Also does a fresh catch of the day and
big balcony sofas. A swimming pool, fringed homemade ice cream.
by purple bougainvillea, snakes through the
property. oSmiling Buddha Restaurant BALINESE $
(% 0828 372 2738; Aas; meals from 30,000Rp;
h 8am-10pm; v ) The restaurant at this high-
4 Lipah
ly recommended guesthouse has excellent
This coastal village is just large enough for organic fare, much sourced from its own
you to go wandering – briefly. garden. Balinese and Western dishes are ex-
Coral View Villas HOTEL $$ cellent and original, and there are good views
(www.coralviewvillas.com; Lipah; r from US$90; out to sea. The place even manages some full-
aWs ) Lush grounds surrounding a natu- moon fun. Happy hour is from 7pm to 8pm.
ralistic pool set this tidy property apart from Green Leaf Cafe CAFE $
other more arid places. The 19 rooms are in (% 0812 3826 7356; www.apneista.com; Jemeluk;
bungalow-style units and have nice terraces mains from 35,000Rp; h 8.30am-6.30pm; v ) Af-
outside; inside, the rooms are large and there ter you’ve chilled out, chill out some more.
are stone-lined open-air bathrooms. This excellent cafe has a good vegetarian
menu, with many specials. There’s a wide
4 Lehan range of coffees, teas and juices. Sit at a table
Quiet, beachy Lehan has some of Amed’s inside or on loungers outside. This is also a
nicest boutique-style accommodation. hub for yoga and freediving.
FREEDIVING
For those wanting to dive but not deal with all the cumbersome breathing apparatus,
decompression etc (not to mention high costs), freediving is a good alternative. This
form of diving involves learning techniques to allow you to hold your breath for several
minutes and reach similar depths to diving with equipment.
Several operators along the east Bali coast offer both beginner and advance courses
in freediving.
Apnea Bali (% 0822 6612 5814; www.apneabali.com; Jl Kubu-Abang; lessons from US$60)
This polished operator on Tulamben’s main strip specialises in a variety of freediving
courses and trips, including down to the Liberty wreck.
Apneista (% 0812 3826 7356; www.apneista.com; Green Leaf Cafe, Jemeluk; 2-day courses
US$200; h 8.30am-10pm) Set up in Jemeluk’s popular Green Leaf Cafe, Apneista has run
freediving courses and trips out of Amed for several years.
28 3
Many divers commute to Tulamben from
Amed, Candidasa or Lovina, and in busy THE WRECK OF THE LIBERTY
times it can get quite crowded between 11am In January 1942 the small US Navy cargo
and 4pm, with 50 or more divers at a time ship USAT Liberty was torpedoed by a
around the wreck. Stay the night in Tulam- Japanese submarine near Lombok.
ben or in nearby Amed and get an early start. Taken in tow, it was beached at Tulam-
Most hotels have their own diving centre, ben so that its cargo of rubber and
and some offer good-value packages if you railway parts could be saved. The Japa-
dive with them as well. nese invasion prevented this, however,
Expect to pay from US$80 for two dives at and the ship sat on the beach until the
Tulamben, and a little more for night dives 1963 eruption of Gunung Agung broke
around Amed. Snorkelling gear is rented it in two and left it just off the shoreline,
everywhere for 30,000Rp.
Ba li C
much to the delight of scores of divers.
Tauch Terminal DIVING
S leep
(% 0363-774504, 0363-22911; www.tauch-terminal.
entral
E N T RiAng
com; 1/2 dives €29/55) Among the many dive op- the Liberty wreck dive site offshore. The best
erators, Tauch Terminal is one of the longest- of the 21 rooms have air-con and hot water.
established in Bali. It also offers unlimited The spacious grounds feel like a public park,
L M&O
24-hour nonboat diving for €105; you need and there is a swish pool area overlooking the
ounta
to book this in advance. A four-day SSI open- ocean. You can’t beat getting out of bed and
EUat
water certificate course costs €420. It also swimming right out to a famous shipwreck.
N TA
i ng
runs its own dive resort.
88 Getting There & Away
Ii N
ns
4 Sleeping & Eating
S
Plenty of buses and bemos travel between Am-
Tulamben is a quiet place, and is essential- lapura and Singaraja and will stop anywhere along
ly built around the wreck. Hotels, all with the Tulamben road, but they’re infrequent after
cafes and many with dive shops, are spread 2pm. Expect to pay 12,000Rp to either town.
along a 4km stretch either side of the main
road. You have your choice of places roadside
(cheaper) or by the water (nicer). At high tide CENTRAL MOUNTAINS
even the rocky shore vanishes. Most of Bali’s mountains are volcanoes; some
Dive Concepts GUESTHOUSE $
are dormant, but some are definitely active.
(% 0812 3684 5440; www.diveconcepts.com; dm The mountains divide the gentle sweep of
50,000Rp, r 100,000-300,000Rp; aW ) A great fertile land to the south from the narrow,
place to meet other divers, this busy French- more arid strip to the north. Northwest of
run dive shop has an old-school guesthouse Gunung Agung is the stark and spectacular
with 12 rooms in a variety of flavours (from caldera that contains the volcanic cone of
cold water and fan to hot water and air-con), Gunung Batur (1717m), the waters of Danau
including six-bed dorms. It has barbecue and Batur and numerous smaller craters. In cen-
film nights, too. tral Bali, around Bedugul, there’s another
complex of volcanic craters and lakes, with
Deep Blue Studio GUESTHOUSE $ much lusher vegetation.
(% 0363-22919; www.diving-bali.com; s/d/tr It’s all a big change if you’ve come from the
incl breakfast US$28/44/60; Ws ) Owned by coastal areas. Temperatures fall and you may
Czechs, this dive operation has 10 rooms in need something warmer than shorts. There
two-storey buildings on the hill side of the are two main routes through the mountains
road. It’s an attractive place and is well set up to the north coast (via Gunung Batur and
for dive classes and chilling out after a day in via Bedugul), which allow you to make a cir-
the depths. Rooms have fans and balconies. cuit. There are hikes to do, clear lake waters
A variety of packages are available with the to enjoy, and a few other natural and sacred
affiliated dive shop. sites of note, especially the mysterious tem-
ple Pura Luhur Batukau, the nearby Unesco-
Puri Madha Beach Bungalows HOTEL $$
recognised ancient rice terraces in and
(% 0363-22921; www.purimadhabeachhotel.weebly.
around Jatiluwih, and stupendous hiking
com; r 500,000-600,000Rp; aWs ) Re-styled
around the old colonial village of Munduk.
bungalow-style units lying directly opposite
28 4
additional volcanic cones 650,000Rp; plus
Gunung Batur an additional 10,000Rp per person. Prices are
% 0366 fixed and inclusive for groups of four.
Most day visitors come on organised tours Equipment
and stop at the crater rim at Penelokan for
If you’re climbing before sunrise, take a torch
views and lunch; most overnight visitors stay
(flashlight) or be absolutely sure that your
in the villages around the lake. The views
guide will provide you with one. You’ll need
both from above and from lake level are truly
good strong footwear, a hat, a jumper (sweat-
wonderful – if you hit the area on a clear day.
er) and drinking water.
2 Activities Routes
The setting for Gunung Batur is other Most travellers use one of two trails that
Ba li G
worldly: it’s like a giant dish, with the bottom start near Toya Bungkah. The shorter one is
half covered with water and a set of volcanic straight up (three to four hours return), while
cones growing in the middle. Visit the area a longer trek (five to six hours return) links
C ct
A entral
unung
on a clear day and you’ll understand what all the summit climb with the other craters.
i v i t i es
the fuss is about. Soaring up in the centre of Climbers have reported that they have easily
the huge outer crater is the cone of Gunung made this journey without a PPPGB guide,
Batur (1717m), formed by a 1917 eruption. A although it shouldn’t be tried while it’s dark.
BMatur
cluster of smaller cones lies beside, created The major obstacle is actually avoiding any
ounta i ns
variously by eruptions in 1926, 1963, 1974 and hassle from the guides themselves.
1994. The last eruption was in 2000. There are a few separate paths at first, but
But is it worthwhile to go through the they all rejoin sooner or later and after about
hassle and the expense of making the climb? 30 minutes you’ll be on a ridge with quite a
You’ll get some amazing photos and come well-defined track. It gets pretty steep towards
close to volcanic action not easily seen any- the top and it can be hard walking over the
where. But the flipside is that it’s costly; you loose volcanic sand – you’ll be climbing up
have to deal with various characters; and at three steps and sliding back two. Allow about
some point you may just say, ‘I could have two hours to get to the top.
enjoyed all this from the car-park viewpoint There’s also a third track, which enables
in Penelokan.’ you to use private transport to within about
Even reputable and highly competent 45 minutes’ walk of the top. From Toya Bung-
adventure tour operators from elsewhere in kah, take the road northeast towards Songan
Bali cannot take their customers up Gunung and take the left fork after about 3.5km at
Batur without paying the PPPGB and using Serongga, just before Songan. Follow this
one of its guides, so these tours are relatively inner-rim road for another 1.7km to a well-
expensive. signposted track on the left, which climbs an-
Pretty much all the accommodation in the other 1km or so to a car park. From here, the
area can help you put a trek together. They walking track is easy to follow to the top.
can also recommend hassle-free alternatives
to Batur, such as the outer rim of the crater, 88 Information
or trips to other mountains such as Gunung Gunung Batur has developed a well-deserved
Agung. reputation as a money-grubbing place where
Trips from Ubud are also easily arranged, visitors (mainly around Penelokan) are hassled
from where you have the advantage of join- by touts and wannabe mountain guides (mainly
ing other trekkers in order to share costs. around the lake area). Of course, the guides
themselves can be a problem, too. Don’t leave
PPPGB HIKING valuables in your car, especially at any car park
(Mt Batur Tour Guides Association; % 0366-52362; at the start of a volcano trail. Don’t even leave a
Toya Bungkah; h 3am-6pm) The PPPGB (former- helmet with a motorcycle.
ly HPPGB) has a monopoly on guided climbs
up Gunung Batur. It requires all trekking 88 Getting There & Around
agencies to hire at least one of its guides for
From Batubulan terminal in Denpasar, bemos
trips up the mountain, and has a reputation make regular trips to Kintamani (18,000Rp).
for tough tactics in requiring climbers to use You can also get a bus on the busy Denpasar
its guides. A simple ascent costs 350,000Rp; Batabulan–Singaraja route, which makes
the main crater 500,000Rp; exploration of stops in both Penelokan and Kintamani (about
28 5
Gunung Batur Area e
# 00 2 km
1 mile
A B C D
#
\ Siakin
Gunung Penulisan
(1745m)
Pelaga (19km); R
Kubutambahan
1 (34km) 1
2
D
#
Þ
Blandingan #
\
#
\
ö
#
Penulisan
#
\
Toya
Mampeh
Ba li A
#
\
Songan
2 2
Gunung Batur .
#
C at
E
Kintamani (1717m)
round
entral
#
\
R
i ng GMunung
Kuban #
\
#1
Þ
6 Trunyan #
\
ounta B
Toya Bungkah ÿ
#
Batur #
\
#
\
3 4è
# 3
i ns
Kubupenelokan #3
Ø Danau
atur
#
\
Batur
#8
ú
#
\ Abang
ÿ
#
5
Gunung
Abang
Ubud #
\
(2152m) R 4
4 Kedisan #7
ú
(29km) #
\
Penelokan #
\
D
\ Peludu
# Buahan
Ubud Bangli Rendang
D
D
D
#
\ Beyunggede (31km) (18km) (16km)
A B C D
#
\
has epic volcano views. It’s affiliated with (% info only 0813 5342 0541; www.c-bali.
the much-loved Sari Organik (p260) restau- com; Hotel Segara, Kedisan; tours from adult/
rant in Ubud. Soups are enjoyable in the child 450,000/350,000Rp) Operated by an
cool mountain air, and you can also choose Australian–Dutch couple, C.Bali offers bike
Ba li A
from salads, pizzas, Indo specials, homemade tours around the region and canoe tours on
wines, juices, smoothies and more. Danau Batur. Prices include pickup across
C ct
ity starts early, and by 11am everything’s all disan; r incl breakfast 250,000-600,000Rp; W ) The
packed up. If you don’t want to go on a hike, popular Segara has bungalows set around a
the sunrise view from the road here is good. cafe and courtyard. The cheapest of the 32
Spiritually, Gunung Batur is the second rooms have cold water; the best rooms have
most important mountain in Bali (only hot water and bathtubs – perfect for soaking
Gunung Agung outranks it), so the temple, after an early trek.
Pura Batur (admission 10,000Rp, sarong & sash
rental 3000Rp), is of considerable importance. Kedisan Floating Hotel BALINESE $
It’s a great stop for the architectural specta- (% 0813 3775 5411, 0366-51627; Kedisan; meals
cle. Within the complex is a Taoist shrine. from 25,000Rp; h 8am-8pm; W ) This hotel on
the shores of Danau Batur is hugely popular
for its daily lunches. On weekends tourists
Penulisan vie with day trippers from Denpasar for ta-
The road gradually climbs along the crater bles out on the piers over the lake. The
rim beyond Kintamani, and is often shrouded Balinese food, which features fresh lake fish,
in clouds, mist or rain. Penulisan is where the is excellent. You can also stay here: the best
road bends sharply and heads down towards rooms are cottages at the water’s edge (from
the north coast and the remote scenic drive 400,000Rp).
to Bedugul. A viewpoint about 400m south
of here offers an amazing panorama over
Toya Bungkah
three mountains: Gunung Batur, Gunung
Abang and Gunung Agung. The main tourist centre for the area is Toya
Near the road junction, several steep Bungkah, which is scruffy but has a cute
flights of steps lead to Bali’s highest temple, charm and a serene lakeside setting.
Pura Puncak Penulisan F, at 1745m.
Some of the sculptures date back to the 11th 2 Activities
century. Hot springs bubble in a couple of spots, and
have long been used for bathing pools.
Batur Natural Hot Spring
A round Danau Batur HOT SPRINGS
(% 0813 3832 5552; Toya Bungkah; admission from
The farming villages down on the lakeside 150,000Rp; h 8am-6pm) This ever-expanding
grow onions and other aromatic crops. It’s complex is on the edge of Danau Batur. The
a crisp setting with often superb lake and three pools have different temperatures, so
mountain views. you can simmer yourself successively. The
28 7
overall feel of the hot springs matches the ples and Toyotas bursting with day-tripping
slightly shabby feel of the entire region. Lock- families.
ers and towels are included with admission, Wherever you go, you are likely to see the
and the simple cafe has good views. tasty local strawberries on offer.
4 Sleeping Candikuning
Under the Volcano III GUESTHOUSE $
(% 0813 3860 0081; Toya Bungkah; s/d incl break- 1 Sights & Activities
fast 150,000/200,000Rp; W ) Featuring a lovely,
Pura Ulun Danu Bratan TEMPLE
quiet lakeside location opposite chilli plots, (off Jl Raya Denpasar-Singaraja; adult/child
this inn has six clean and simple rooms; go 30,000/15,000Rp, parking 5000Rp; h 6am-
for room 1 right on the water. There are two 6pm) An iconic image of Bali, depicted on
Ba li D
other nearby inns in the Volcano empire, all the 50,000Rp note, this important Hindu-
run by the same lovely family. Buddhist temple was founded in the 17th
C leep
S
century. It is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the
anau
entral
goddess of the waters, and is built on small
Danau Bratan islands. Pilgrimages and ceremonies are held
i ng
% 0368 here to ensure that there is a supply of water
B ratan
Approaching from south Bali, you gradually for farmers all over Bali as part of the Un-
M ounta i ns
leave the rice terraces behind and ascend esco-recognised subak system. The tableau
into the mountain country around Danau includes classical Hindu thatch-roofed meru
Bratan. Candikuning is the main village in the (multi-tiered shrines) reflected in the water
area, and has an important and picturesque and silhouetted against the often-cloudy
temple, Pura Ulun Danu Bratan. Munduk mountain backdrop.
anchors the region with fine hiking to water-
falls and cloud-cloaked forests and to nearby Bali Botanic Garden GARDENS
Danau Tamblingan. Note that it is often misty (% 0368-2033211; www.balibotanicgarden.org; Ke-
and can get chilly up here. bun Raya Eka Karya Bali; entry 18,000Rp, parking
On Sundays and public holidays the 6000Rp; h 7am-6pm) Established in 1959 as
lakeside can be crowded with courting cou- a branch of the national botanic gardens
at Bogor, near Jakarta, these gardens cover
(5km) #
\ Gitgit
Gunung
1 Catur 1
(2096m)
R
Danau
Gunung Buyan Pancasari
Lesong #
\
Gobleg
#
\ R(1341m) .
#
Y9ú
66
Munduk # # Danau
5 Tamblingan
Tunjuk .
#
#
ÿ #2
Y #
\ #
ú
D #
\
#
\ #
ÿ Asan Gunung 10 Danau
#ú
ÿ # Munduk Tapak R Bratan
Mayong 7
2 (1905m) #3
æ 2
(12km); 4 8 R
1æ
#
Seririt (25km) Gunung
# Umajera Lesong
\
(1860m) #
\ Candikuning
66
# Bedugul
\
R 6ÿ
#
Gunung Temantanda
#
\
Pohen
(2063m)
R
Gunung Batunye
3 3
Sangiyang #
\
(2093m) R Baturiti #
\
Gunung
Adeng Mengwi (33km);
D
ÿ Sleeping
4 Meme Surung .......................................... A2
5 Puri Lumbung Cottages ......................... A2
Ba li D
more than 154 hectares on the lower slopes Ubung terminal (20,000Rp) and Singaraja’s
C leep
S
of Gunung Pohen. Don’t miss the Panca Yad- Sangket terminal (20,000Rp).
anau
entral
nya Garden (Garden of Five Offerings), which Generally, though, you’ll want your own trans-
preserves plants used in ancient Hindu port to get around the scattered attractions of
i ng
the region.
B ratan
ceremonies.
Within the park, the Bali Treetop Ad-
M&ounta
the like, which let you explore the forest well most appealing mountain retreats. It has a
above the ground. cool, misty ambience and is set among lush
hillsides covered with jungle, rice fields, fruit
4 Sleeping & Eating trees and pretty much anything else that
The choice of accommodation near the lake grows on the island. Waterfalls tumble off
is limited but nearby Munduk has many ex- precipices by the dozen. There are hikes and
cellent inns. treks galore and a number of really nice plac-
es to stay, from old Dutch colonial summer
oStrawberry Hill GUESTHOUSE $$
homes to retreats where you can plunge full-
(% 0368-21265; www.strawberryhillbali.com; Jl on into local culture. It’s a thriving little back-
Raya Denpasar-Singaraja; r 450,000-600,000Rp; packer town, with many people who come for
W ) Just outside Candikuning you’ll find 17
a day and stay for a week.
conical little woodsy cottages arrayed on a When the Dutch took control of north Bali
hill. Each has a deep soaking tub and nice in the 1890s, they experimented with com-
views down to south Bali (some have better mercial crops, establishing plantations for
views than others, so compare). The cafe’s coffee, vanilla, cloves and cocoa. It’s a legacy
Indo menu (mains from 40,000Rp) includes that remains today.
soul-healing soto ayam (chicken soup) and
gudeg yogya (jackfruit stew). Pick your own
strawberries for free from the hotel’s patch.
1 Sights & Activities
Almost everything in the Munduk area is at an
Strawberry Stop CAFE $ elevation of at least 1000m. Numerous trails
(% 0368-21060; Jl Raya Denpasar-Singaraja; snacks are suitable for hikes of two hours or much
from 15,000Rp; h 9am-6pm; W ) Locally grown longer to coffee plantations, rice paddies, wa-
strawberries star in milkshakes, juices, pan- terfalls, villages, or around both Danau Tam-
cakes and other treats. You can also get full blingan and Danau Buyan. You will be able to
meals. Bananas are used when berries are out arrange a guide through your lodgings.
of season.
Munduk Waterfall WATERFALL
(Tanah Braak; admission 5000Rp) About 2km east
88 Getting There & Away of Munduk, look for signs for this waterfall
Danau Bratan is along the main north–south (aka Tanah Braak) along the road. Though
road between south Bali and Singaraja. the signs say the trail is 700m long, it seems
Although the main terminal is in Pancasari, to be an underestimate. This is the easiest
minibuses will stop along the road in Bedugul waterfall to access in the area without a map
and Candikuning on runs between Denpasar’s or guide.
289
4 Sleeping & Eating Ngiring Ngewedang CAFE $
(% 0812 380 7010; www.ngiringngewedang.com;
The hikes around Munduk draw many visi-
snacks 15,000-40,000Rp; h 10am-5pm) Stop in
tors, and consequently there are many places
at this coffeehouse, 5km east of Munduk;
for them to stay. Enjoy simple old Dutch
it grows its own coffee on the surrounding
houses in the village or more naturalistic
slopes.
places in the countryside. Most have cafes,
usually serving good local fare. There are a
couple of cute warungs in the village and a 88 Getting There & Away
few stores with very basic supplies (including Minibuses leave Ubung terminal in Denpasar for
bug spray). Munduk (22,000Rp) but only if there are enough
passengers. Driving to the north coast, the main
Meme Surung GUESTHOUSE $ road west of Munduk goes through a number of
(% 0851 0001 2887; www.memesurung.com; r picturesque villages to Mayong (where you can
Ba li G
incl breakfast from 200,000Rp; W ) Two atmos- head south to west Bali). The road then goes
pheric old Dutch houses adjoin to form a down to the sea at Seririt in north Bali.
C leep
S entral
unung
compound of 11 rooms, immersed among an
English-style garden. The decor is traditional
and simple; the view from the long wooden Gunung Batukau Area
i ngBM&
veranda is both the focus and joy here. It’s Often overlooked (probably a good thing,
atukau
located along the main strip of Munduk’s given what the vendor hordes have done to
ounta
E at i ng
township. Gunung Agung in the east), Gunung Batukau
is Bali’s second-highest mountain (2276m),
oPuri Lumbung Cottages GUESTHOUSE $$
the third most spiritually significant of Ba-
i ns
A rea
(% 0851 0021 0675; www.purilumbung.com;
li’s three major mountains and the holy peak
cottages incl breakfast US$83-173; iW ) S
of the island’s western end. Enjoy a magical
Founded by Nyoman Bagiarta to develop
visit to one of the island’s holiest and most
sustainable tourism, this lovely hotel has
evocative temples, Pura Luhur Batukau, and
43 bright two-storey thatched cottages and
revel in the ancient rice-terrace greenery
rooms set among rice fields. Enjoy intoxicat-
around Jatiluwih.
ing views (units 32 to 35 have the best) from
the upstairs balconies. Dozens of trekking op-
tions and courses are offered.
1 Sights
oPura Luhur Batukau HINDU TEMPLE
Villa Dua Bintang GUESTHOUSE $$ (donation 20,000Rp; h 8am-6pm) On the slopes
(% 0812 3700 5593, 0361-401 1416; www.villadua of Gunung Batukau, Pura Luhur Batukau
bintang.com; Jl Batu Galih; r incl breakfast 800,000Rp; was the state temple when Tabanan was an
Ws ) Hidden 500m down a tree-shaded lane independent kingdom. It has a seven-roofed
that’s off the main road, 1km east of Munduk. meru dedicated to Maha Dewa, the moun-
Four gorgeous rooms are elaborately built tain’s guardian spirit, as well as shrines for
amid fruit trees and forest (two rooms are Bratan, Buyan and Tamblingan lakes. This is
family-size). The scent of cloves and nutmeg certainly the most spiritual temple you can
hangs in the air from the porch. There’s a cafe, easily visit in Bali. Outside the compound,
and the family who owns it is lovely. the temple is surrounded by forest, and the
atmosphere is cool and misty; the chants of
Don Biyu CAFE $
priests are backed by singing birds.
(% 0812 3709 3949; www.donbiyu.com; mains
26,000-80,000Rp; h 7.30am-10pm; W ) Catch up Rice Fields VIEWPOINT
on your blog; enjoy good coffee; zone out be- (per person 20,000Rp, plus per car 5000Rp) At
fore the sublime views; and choose from a mix Jatiluwih, which means ‘Truly Marvellous’,
of Western and interesting Asian fare. Dishes you’ll be rewarded with vistas of centuries-
are served in mellow open-air pavilions. It old rice terraces that exhaust your ability to
also has six double rooms (600,000Rp), all describe green. The terraces have received
with balconies and views. It’s on the main Unesco World Heritage status, listed in rec-
road leading into Munduk. ognition of the ancient rice-growing culture.
You’ll understand why just by viewing the
panorama from the narrow, twisting 18km
road leading in and out of town, but do get
290
out for a rice-field walk. Follow the water as Check out the cinematically decrepit old
it runs through channels and bamboo pipes Dutch warehouses opposite the water. A
from one plot to the next. couple of warungs have been built on stilts
There’s a road toll for visitors. over the water. Walk up Jl Imam Bonjol and
you’ll see the art deco lines of late-colonial
88 Getting There & Away Dutch buildings.
The only realistic way to explore the Gunung Museum Buleleng MUSEUM
Batukau area is with your own transport. (Jl Veteran 23; h 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) F Mu-
seum Buleleng recalls the life of the last radja
(rajah; prince) of Buleleng, Pandji Tisna, who
NORTH BALI is credited with developing tourism in Lovi-
The land on the other side of the map, that’s na to the west. Among the items here is the
Ba li S
north Bali. Although one-sixth of the island’s Royal (brand) typewriter he used during his
population lives here, the vast region is over- career as a travel writer before his death in
N iett
G
looked by many visitors who stay trapped in 1978. It also traces the history of the region
orth
ngaraja
The big draw here is the incredible diving Gedong Kirtya Library LIBRARY
B al
and snorkelling at Pulau Menjangan. Arc- (% 0362-22645; Jl Veteran 23; h 8am-4pm Mon-
T here
ing around a nearby bay, Pemuteran may be Thu, 8am-1pm Fri) This small historical library
i
Bali’s best beach town. To the east is Lovina, was established in 1928 by Dutch colonialists
a sleepy beach strip with cheap hotels and and named after the Sanskrit for ‘to try’. It has
& Away
even cheaper sunset beer specials. All along a collection of lontar (dried palm leaf) books,
the north coast are interesting little boutique as well as some even older written works in
hotels, while inland you’ll find quiet treks to the form of inscribed copper plates called
waterfalls. prasasti. Dutch publications, dating back to
Getting to north Bali for once lives up to 1901, may interest students of the colonial
the cliché: it’s half the fun. Routes follow the period. It’s on the same grounds as Museum
thinly populated coastlines east and west, or Buleleng.
you can go up and over the mountains by any
number of routes, marvelling at crater lakes
and maybe stopping for a trek on the way.
5 Eating
Manalagi BALINESE $
(Jl Sahadewa 8A; mains from 12,000Rp; h 8am-
Singaraja 10pm) Down a pretty tree-shaded street, this
recently remodelled Balinese restaurant sits
% 0362
in its own compound and is very popular
With a population of more than 120,000
with locals looking for a special meal that in-
people, Singaraja (which means ‘Lion King’)
cludes fresh fish.
is Bali’s second-largest city and the capital
of Buleleng Regency, which covers much of
the north. With its tree-lined streets, Dutch 88 Getting There & Away
colonial buildings and charmingly sleepy Singaraja is the main transport hub for the north-
waterfront area north of Jl Erlangga, it’s ern coast, with three bemo/bus terminals. From
worth exploring for a couple of hours. Most the Sangket terminal, 6km south of town on the
people stay in nearby Lovina. main road, minibuses go to Denpasar (Ubung
terminal; 25,000Rp) via Bedugul/Pancasari
Singaraja was the centre of Dutch power in
sporadically.
Bali and remained the administrative centre
The Banyuasri terminal, on the western
for the Lesser Sunda Islands (Bali through to
side of town, has buses heading to Gilimanuk
Timor) until 1953. Today, Singaraja is a major (25,000Rp, two hours) and bemos to Lovina
educational and cultural centre. (8000Rp). For Java, several companies have
services, which include the ferry trip across
1 Sights the Bali Strait. Buses go as far as Yogyakarta
At the old harbour and waterfront along the (from 360,000Rp, 16 hours) and Jakarta (from
canals you can still get a little feel of the colo- 455,000Rp, 24 hours) – book at the Banyuasri
nial port that was the main entrance to Bali terminal a day before.
before WWII.
0 20 km
North Bali e
# 0 10 miles
BALI SEA
44 Lampu
Pulau
Menjangan #
Singaraja \
Penarukan Krabokan
#
\ #
\
#
\
Merah #
6666666 Sinengdalem \
\
#
Ketapang Gunung Prapat Tukad Mungga \ #
\
44
444
4444 R Banyuwedang #
(Java) (4km) Agung (310m) #
\ #
Anturan \ #
\ Beratan
Pemuteran Banyupoh Panci #
\
#
\ #
\ #
Lovina \
#
\ Labuhan
f
# #
\ #
\\
# #
\
D
#
\ Lalang Kaliasem Kalibukbuk
4444444 #
Þ Gondoi Ume Silangayang
R #
\
Gilimanuk #
\ Anyar Selat
Gunung Pura Grokgak Dencarik
Sumber #
\ Kalisada #
\ Seririt #
\
Melanting Celukanbawang #
\ #
\
6666666
66 #
\
Kelompok Banyuwedang
(430m) #
\ Terjun
Banjar Tega \ #
# Air
Y Singsing
4444
Cekik RGunung R
Kelatakan \
#Y# Air Panas
Gunung Musi Banjar Banjar
(698m) (1224m) #
Air Terjun Gitgit Y
\
#
\ #
# Belimbingsari
Rangdu \ #
\ Pedewa
Kelatakan #
\
Danau
Su
#
\ Ambyasari Gobleg Buyan
R Mayong #
\
ng
Danau
ai
Gunung Mesehe #
\
#
\ Palasari (1344m) Kayu \
# Munduk Tamblingan
Bil
6666666
66 R R
u
#
Melaya \ Putih
Gunung Patas Gunung Lesong #
\
÷
# #
\
kpo
h
(1412m) (1860m)
Bali Barat Gunung Bedugul
# National Park Gunung
Candikesuma \ Pupuan Sangiyang R Adeng Batuny
#
\ R
Pujungan
#
\ R Baturiti
Gunung
#
Batungsei \ Batukau
6666666 6 Negara
#
\
Mendoyo
#
\
Manggissari
#
\
(2276m)
#
\
#
\
#
\ #
\ #
\
#
\ #
\
#
\
#
\ #
\ #
\ #
\
#
Y
BA
R TiHng
orth
G ett
Ba li N O TLhere
al Ii & Away
Ù
#
291
6666666
292
The Penarukan terminal, 2km east of town, Spice Dive DIVING
has bemos to Yeh Sanih (10,000Rp) and Amlapu- (% 0851 0001 2666; www.balispicedive.com; off
ra (about 20,000Rp, three hours) via the coastal Jl Raya Lovina, Kalibukbuk; 2-tank dives from €40;
road; and also minibuses to Denpasar (Batubulan h 8am-9pm) Spice Dive is a large operation. It
terminal, 30,000Rp, three hours) via Kintamani. offers snorkelling trips and night dives (€60),
plus popular Pulau Menjangan trips (snorkel/
dive €55/80). It’s based at the west end of the
Lovina beach path, with Spice Beach Club, and at an
% 0362 office on Jl Bina Ria.
῾Relaxed’ is how people most often describe
Lovina, and they are correct. This low-key, Hiking
low-rise, low-priced beach resort is the polar oKomang Dodik HIKING
opposite of Kuta. (% 0877 6291 5128; [email protected]; hikes
Ba li LA
The Lovina tourist area stretches over 8km, from 400,000Rp) Komang Dodik leads hikes in
and consists of a string of coastal villages – the hills along the north coast. Trips can last
No
Kaliasem, Kalibukbuk, Anturan and Tukad from three to seven hours. The highlight of
ct
orth
v i na
Mungga – collectively known as Lovina. most trips is a series of waterfalls, more than
v i tBi es
The ‘centre’ and heart of Lovina is Kalibuk- 20m high, in a jungle grotto. Routes can in-
buk, a village 10.5km west of Singaraja. Mel- clude coffee, clove and vanilla plantations.
al i
Ba li LE
Villa Taman Ganesha GUESTHOUSE $$
(% 0362-41272; www.taman-ganesha-lovina.com; Jl very refreshing.
Kartika 45; r €30-60; aWs ) This lovely guest- The area is thick with tropical forest
Noat
and makes a nice day trip from Lovina.
orth
house is down a quiet lane lined with Balinese
v i ng
family compounds. The grounds are lush and The falls are more spectacular in the
na B al i
fragrant with frangipani from around the wet season (October to March), and
world that have been collected by the own- may be just a trickle at other times.
er, a landscape architect from Germany. The
four units are private and comfortable. The Akar VEGETARIAN $
beach is 400m away and it’s a 10-minute walk (% 0817 972 4717; Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukbuk; mains
along the sand to Kalibukbuk. 40,000-65,000Rp; h 7am-10pm; Wv ) S The
many shades of green at this vegetarian
5 Eating cafe aren’t just for show. They reflect the
Just about every hotel has a cafe or restau- earth-friendly ethics of the owners. Enjoy
rant. Walk along the beach footpath to choose organic smoothies, house-made gelato, and
from a selection of basic places for cold beer, fresh international dishes, such as chargrilled
standard food and sunsets. aubergine filled with feta and chilli.
A small night market (Jl Raya Lovina, Kali-
bukbuk; mains from 15,000Rp; h 5-11pm) is a good oJasmine Kitchen THAI $$
choice for fresh and cheap local food. (% 0362-41565; Gang Binaria, Kalibukbuk; mains
from 55,000Rp; h 11am-10pm; W ) The Thai fare
Warung Music INDONESIAN $ at this elegant two-level restaurant is excel-
(off Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukbuk; mains from 25,000Rp; lent. The menu is authentic, and the staff are
h 8am-late) A humble store with a few tables gracious. Try the homemade ice cream for
and chairs out front, Warung Music does dessert and enjoy to the sounds of soft jazz.
tasty inexpensive meals. It has a great local You can refill water bottles here for 2000Rp.
feel and is the place to hang out with a cheap The ground-floor coffee bar is a fine stop.
drink before hitting the bars. The staff are
exceptionally friendly and it’s a good spot to oSeyu JAPANESE $$
meet new friends, locals and tourists alike. (% 0362-41050; www.seyulovina.com; Gang Bina-
ria, Kalibukbuk; dishes from 50,000Rp; h 11am-
Global Village Kafe CAFE $ 10pm; W ) This authentic Japanese place has
(% 0362-41928; Jl Raya Lovina, Kalibukbuk; mains a skilled sushi chef and a solid list of fresh
from 19,000Rp; h 8am-10pm; W ) Che Guevara, nigiri and sashimi choices. The dining room
Mikhail Gorbachev and Nelson Mandela are is suitably spare and uncomplicated.
just some of the figures depicted in the paint-
ings lining the walls of this artsy cafe. The
baked goods, fruit drinks, pizzas, breakfasts
6 Drinking & Nightlife
In the evenings, Lovina shrugs off its sleepy
and much more are excellent. There are free
daytime demeanour to offer a suprisingly
book and DVD exchanges, plus a selection of
spirited nightlife.
local handicrafts. Watch for art-house movie
nights.
294
Lovina
A B C D
1
BALI
SEA
h
at
tp
o o Jl Ma
Ba li LInformat
F
Beach war
2 5ÿ
#
Jl Bina R
1 4ÿ
#
Jl K e
Noorth
p
# 6
rtika
Gang
Binaria #2
ÿ
ú #
#
v i na B ali on
tap
ú#úÿ
#3
ia
Jl Ka
û 8 10
12 # 7 ng
a
D
Kaliasem (1km); û
# ú
Jl Raya#
Seririt (13km) Lovina Lovina
11 Jl Raya
KALIBUKBUK
i
9#
ú
3 ai
D am
Jl
A B C D
Lovina
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 8 Jasmine Kitchen ......................................B2
1 Spice Dive ................................................ A2 9 Night Market ............................................C3
10 Seyu ..........................................................B2
ÿ Sleeping Warung Music .................................. (see 6)
2 Harris Homestay..................................... B2
3 Padang Lovina......................................... B2 û Drinking & Nightlife
4 Sea Breeze Cabins.................................. B2 11 Kantin 21...................................................A3
5 Villa Taman Ganesha.............................. C2 12 Poco Lounge ............................................B2
ú Eating
6 Akar .......................................................... B2
7 Global Village Kafe.................................. B2
2 Activities
Jl Pantai Ba nyualit Diving is the main reason people come to
Ba li West
2
Pemuteran. It’s the ideal base for diving
and snorkelling Pulau Menjangan (p297).
N ett
G
Banyuwedang’s harbour is just 7km west of
orth
town, so you have only a short ride before
you’re on a boat for the relaxing and pretty
i ng
ofB al
a
a Lovin 30-minute journey to Menjangan.
D
LAoround
Perama (1.5km);
Pemuteran itself also has extensive coral
iv i na
Warung Bambu reefs about 3km offshore at Pemuteran Bay;
Pemaron (3.5km); there’s varied marine life, coral gardens and
Singaraja (8km) 3
walls. There’s also a sunken underwater Hin-
du temple and 41 statues.
Dive shops and local hotels run snorkel-
E F ling trips that cost US$35 to US$60; two-
tank dive trips cost from US$80; snorkelling
gear rents from 40,000Rp.
TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
Perama (% 0362-41161; www.peramatour.com; oReef Seen Divers’ Resort DIVING
Jl Raya Lovina) buses stop in Anturan. Pas- (% 0362-93001; www.reefseenbali.com; shore/boat
sengers are then ferried to other points on the dives from 315,000/555,000Rp) Right on the
Lovina strip (10,000Rp). There’s a morning bus beach in a laid-back resort, Reef Seen is a
to/from the south, including Kuta, Sanur and
PADI dive centre and has a full complement
Ubud (all 125,000Rp).
of classes. It also offers pony rides on the
beach for kids (from 200,000Rp for 30 min-
88 Getting Around utes). Some dive packages include accommo-
The Lovina strip is very spread out, but you can dation at the resort. The company is active in
easily travel back and forth on bemos (5000Rp). local preservation efforts.
Easy Divers DIVING
gardens around a pool. The popular cafe-bar the dry season. The southern slopes receive
i ng
serves Balinese and Thai food. more-regular rainfall, and so have more trop-
ABRal
GUESTHOUSE $
have extensive mangroves.
i N AT I&O N
example of the many well-priced new accom- and macaques (seen in the afternoon along
modations springing up in Pemuteran. The the main road near Sumber Kelompok); rusa,
four immaculate units are set in a garden and barking, sambar, Java and muncak (mouse)
have hot water and other comforts. deer; wild boar, leopard cats, giant squirrels,
porcupine, buffalo, iguanas, cobras, pythons
oTaman Selini Beach and green snakes. There were once tigers,
Bungalows BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ but the last confirmed sighting was in 1937
(% 0362-94746; www.tamanselini.com; Jl Singaraja- – and that one was shot. The best time for
Gilimanuk; r incl breakfast US$90-160; aWs ) wildlife-watching is during the dry season
The 11 bungalows here recall an older, refined from May to October.
Bali, from the quaint thatched roofs down to The birdlife is prolific, with around 200
the antique carved doors and detailed stone- species found here, including the very rare
work. Rooms, which open onto a large garden Bali starling (which can also be spotted fly-
running down to the beach, have four-poster ing about at the park headquarters’ breeding
beds and large outdoor bathrooms. The out- centre in Cekik).
door daybeds can be addictive. It’s immedi- There are more than 200 species of plants
ately east of Pondok Sari hotel, on the beach growing in the park.
and off the main road.
La Casa Kita PIZZA $$
2 Activities
(% 0852 3889 0253; Jl Gilimanuk-Seririk; pizzas Whether by land, by boat or underwater, to
58,000-75,000Rp; h 2-10pm) Grab a table and a explore the park you’ll need a guide, which
cold Bintang on the outdoor lawn and choose can be arranged at the park offices in Cekik
from an excellent selection of thin-crust or Labuhan Lalang.
wood-fired pizzas. Other Western and Indo- In 2014 permits were increased to a hefty
nesian options are good, too; the chef knows 200,000Rp per person, per day. Given this
their stuff. It’s on the main road across from doesn’t include activities or guides, visiting
Easy Divers. the park can become a costly affair when ac-
commodation and transport are factored in.
88 Getting There & Away Boat Trips
Pemuteran is served by any of the buses and To explore the mangroves of Teluk Gilimanuk
bemo on the Gilimanuk–Lovina run. Labuhan La- (Gilimanuk Bay) or the west side of Prapat
lang and Bali Barat National Park are 12km west. Agung you’ll need to charter a 10-seater boat
It’s a three- to four-hour drive from south Bali, (525,000Rp per three hours), plus a guide
either over the hills or around the west coast.
297
Ba li B
from the tiny dock at Labuhan Lalang (just across the turquoise water from Menjangan),
where you’ll pay the 200,000Rp park permit. Given the high costs of renting boats and
N leep
S al
orth
guides (and a whole host of other ludicrous fees), independent snorkellers are best ad-
vised to join one of the dive companies heading from Pemuteran.
i Biarat
ng
B al i N at i onal Park
(250,000Rp), pay the entrance fee (200,000Rp) 4 Sleeping
and miscellaneous costs such as insurance
(4000Rp) and toilet fees (10,000Rp)! But this
oMenjangan RESORT $$$
(% 0362-94700; www.themenjangan.com; Jl Raya
is the ideal way to see birdlife, including king-
Gilimanuk-Singaraja, Km 17; r/ste/villas incl break-
fishers, Javanese herons and more.
fast US$250/350/500; aWs ) Just within the
Hiking buffer zone of Bali Barat National Park, this
All hikers must be accompanied by an author- five-star resort is the perfect spot for those
ised guide. It’s best to arrive the day before wanting to see both sides of the national park.
you want to hike, and to make enquiries at Spread out over 382 hectares, it has two en-
the park offices in Cekik or Labuhan Lalang. tities: the Monsoon Lodge has rooms set in
The set rates for guides in the park depend the bush section and will suit those seeking
on the size of the group and the length of the wildlife encounters; and the Beach Villas
hike; with one or two people it’s 350,000Rp overlook the mangroves and sparkling water,
for one or two hours, with rates steadily in- just across from Pulau Menjangan.
creasing from there. You’ll also need to pay Regardless of which section you decide
200,000Rp for a permit per person. upon, guests can utilise all facilities, whether
Early morning, say 6am, is the best time to hiking in the park or lazing on the private
start; it’s cooler and you’re more likely to see beach looking out to the turquoise water.
some wildlife. The following are two of the Horse-riding safaris are available to explore
more popular treks: the park (also available to nonguests) from
From a trail west of Labuhan Lalang, hike 600,000Rp per hour. Other activities include
around the mangroves at Teluk Terima. Then guided hikes, birdwatching, kayaking and
partially follow Sungai Terima into the hills diving.
and walk back down to the road along the
steps at Makam Jayaprana. You may see grey 88 Information
macaques, deer and black monkeys. Allow The park headquarters (% 0365-61060; Jl
two to three hours. Raya Cekik; h 24hr) at Cekik displays a topo-
From Sumber Kelompok, go up Gunung graphic model of the park area, and has a little
Kelatakan (698m), then down to the main information about plants and wildlife. The Labu-
road near Kelatakan village (six to seven han Lalang Information Office (Jl Singaraja-
hours). Clear streams abound in the woods. Gilimanuk; h 7am-7pm) is in a hut located in
Iwan Melali (% 0819 3167 5011; iwan_melali@ the parking area where boats leave for Pulau
yahoo.com) is a recommended guide who’s Menjangan.
knowledgeable about birdlife, animals and
hiking routes.
298
88 Getting There & Away tower of rock that the temple sits upon is an
If you don’t have transport, any Gilimanuk-
artful reconstruction (the entire structure
bound bus or bemo from north or west Bali can was crumbling) and more than one-third of
drop you at park headquarters at Cekik. Those the rock is artificial.
from north Bali can also drop you at the Labuhan For the Balinese, Pura Tanah Lot is one of
Lalang visitor centre. the most important and venerated sea tem-
ples. Like Pura Luhur Ulu Watu, at the tip of
the southern Bukit Peninsula, and Pura Ram-
Gilimanuk but Siwi to the west, it is closely associated
% 0365 with the Majapahit priest Nirartha. It’s said
Gilimanuk is the terminus for ferries that that each of the sea temples was intended to
shuttle back and forth across the narrow strait be within sight of the next, so they formed
a chain along Bali’s southwestern coast;
Ba li G
Anturan 0 20 km
# 0 #
\
West Bali #
\ e Air Terjun Gitgit 10 miles
Silangayang
#
\ Lovina
6 #
\ Catur
Kalibukbuk #
\ \
# Selat Gunung
Catur
6 #
\
(2096m)
Gitgit R
BALI SEA
6 au au
Seririt Danyan
#
\
Dantan
#
\ Air Panas Bu Bra Pelaga
Pura Y
# Banjar au n
4
6 4 6 6 6 Pulau
Menjangan
6
#
æ
Banyuwedang
Pemuteran
#
\
Pulaki
Þ
# Mayong
#
Sun\
ga i
#
\
Kayu
Putih
Gunung R
Dan blinga
Tam
#
Pacung \
Penyabangan
#
\
6 4 4 6 Bali Barat
#
\
Gunung
R Musi
Sa
ba Sangiyang
Batukau
Pupuan Reserve
44 4 4 6 National
6
Park Gunung
R Banyuwedang
Gunung
Merbuk Gunung
Mesehe
(1224m) #
\ Pujungan
#
#
\
Pura Luhur Þ
# æ
# Jatiluwih
#
÷ (1388m) Gunung Batungsei \ Batukau
4 6 6 (430m) R (1344m)
R
R Patas
#
Wangayagede \
an
6 (1412m) #
\
Dukuh
Gunung #
\
#
\ Gilimanuk #
÷ Sanda
4 Kelatakan Biyahan \#
Bali Barat l #
Y Margarana
Puluk
R (698m)
bu
44 64 6 Hot
m
Su
#
\
ga i
#
\ #
\
Su
4(Java) Belimbingsari Blimbing Springs
gai
Jegu Sembung
(4km) 6 #
\
Sun
4
6 6 #
\
gai Daya
Manggissari
He
#
\ Palasari #
\
Sungai
#
æ
Balian
S un
Wanasari
Yeh
6 6 #
\
Bunut
Pura Taman
gai
6 6 Selat
#
\
Negara
#
\
#
\
Jembrana
Loloan
Timur
#
\ #
\
Mendoyo
#
\
Pura
Þ
#
Rambut
Siwi
#
\
#
Ù
Pantai
Medewi
#
\
Pulukan
Kutuh
#
\
#
Ù #
\
Antosari
Lalang-
#
\ Pucuk
Kerambitan
#
\
#
\
Mengwi \
#
\
#
Tabanan
Jl Bypass
Þ
#
Pura Gede
Þ
# #
\
Perancak
Beach #
\ Tibubiyu
6 666 6 Perancak
BALI SEA
Yeh Gangga
#
Pura Tanah Lot Þ
#
\ Beraban
#
\
#
\ Seseh
West
G
Ba li W ett alLTIi here & Away
E S Ti ng
BA
JAVA 6
299
300
into the Balinese character. (One of the strat- look down the road to the surf. The small
egies used is to put the last person on the cafe serves crowd-pleasing fare. The friendly
water channel in control.) owner Ayu is a genuine character.
This complex and vital social system was
recognised by Unesco in 2012 and added to oPondok Pitaya: Hotel,
the World Heritage list. Specific sites singled Surfing & Yoga GUESTHOUSE $$
out include much of the rice-growing region (% 0819 9984 9054; www.pondokpitaya.com; Jl
around Tabanan, Pura Taman Ayun and the Pantai Balian; r incl breakfast from 750,000Rp; Ws )
Jatiluwih rice terraces. With a spray-scented location right on wave-
Learn more about Bali’s rice-growing tossed Balian Beach, this complex features an
traditions at the Mandala Mathika Sub- eclectic range of rooms: from vintage Indo-
ak (Subak Museum; Jl Raya Kediri; adult/child nesian buildings (including a 1950 Javanese
15,000/7500Rp; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat), house and an 1860 Balinese alligator hunter’s
Ba li B
a simple museum just east of Tabanan. shack) to more modest accommodation. It’s
The road to Pura Luhur Batukau and the a great place for families as it has a popular
West
S
Ba li JS
terraces. It is a stop-off on many organised tours.
West
embrana
leep B
Surf Villa Mukks GUESTHOUSE $
Jembrana Coast (% 0812 397 3431; www.surfvillamukks.com; Pulukan;
i ng
r incl breakfast with fan/air-con 250,000/400,000Rp;
al i&CEoast
About 34km west of Tabanan you cross into
aW ) About 900m east of the Medewi surf
Bali’s most sparsely populated district, Jem-
brana. The main road follows the south coast break at Pulukan, this Japanese-owned guest-
at i ng
most of the way to Negara. There’s some beau- house has modern rooms overlooking rice
tiful scenery and little tourist development, fields and distant surf. It’s a superchilled spot
with the exception of the surfing action at where some rooms have large bamboo blinds
Medewi. instead of doors. It rents boards and offers
surf lessons.
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’