Classic Cycles Technical Resources

Ignition or engine stop switch shorted

Honda Motorcycle Troubleshooting Guide Wiring shorted or open
Fuse blown
Compression low:
NOTE Spark plug loose
*This is not an exhaustive list,giving every possible Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a Cylinder, piston worn
rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of Piston ring bad (worn, weak broken, or sticking)
the more common difficulties. Piston ring/land clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Hydraulic lash adjuster damaged (worn, seizure, or
spring broken)
Hydraulic lash adjuster oil passage clogged
Engine Doesn't Start, Starting Difficulty:
Starter motor not rotating:
Starter lockout or neutral switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Relays not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Wiring open or shorted
Ignition switch trouble Poor Running at Low Speed:
Engine stop switch trouble Spark weak:
Fuse blown Battery voltage low
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn't turn over: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Starter clutch trouble Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Engine won't turn over: Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Valve seizure Spark plug incorrect
Cylinder, piston seizure IC ignitor trouble
Crankshaft seizure Pickup coil trouble
Connecting rod small end seizure Ignition coil trouble
Connecting rod big end seizure Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Transmission gear or bearing seizure Pilot screw maladjusted
Camshaft seizure Pilot jet, or air passage clogged
Balancer bearing seizure Air bleed pipe, bleed holes clogged
No fuel flow: Pilot passage clogged
Fuel tap vacuum hose clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Fuel tank air vent obstructed Starter plunger stuck open
Fuel tap clogged Fuel level in carburetor float chamber too high or
Fuel line clogged too low
Float valve clogged Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Engine flooded: Carburetor holder loose
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high Surge tank duct loose
Float valve worn or stuck open Compression low:
Starting technique faulty Spark plug loose
(When flooded, crank the engine with the throttle Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
fully open to allow more air to reach the Cylinder, piston worn
engine.) Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
No spark; spark weak: Piston ring/land clearance excessive
Battery voltage low Cylinder head warped
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Cylinder head gasket damaged
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble Engine not sufficiently warmed up after lash
Spark plug cap not in good contact adjuster installation
Spark plug incorrect Hydraulic lash adjuster damaged (worn, seizure, or
IC ignitor trouble spring broken)
Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch Hydraulic lash adjuster oil passage clogged
trouble Valve spring broken or weak
Pickup coil trouble Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
Ignition coil trouble carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
 www.ClassicCycles.org

Backfiring when deceleration: Miscellaneous:

Vacuum switch valve broken Throttle valve won't fully open
Air suction valve trouble Carburetor vacuum piston doesn't slide smoothly
Coasting enricher trouble Brake dragging
Other: Clutch slipping
IC ignitor trouble Overheating
Carburetors not synchronizing Engine oil level too high
Carburetor vacuum piston doesn't slide smoothly Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble
Drive train trouble Final gear case oil viscosity too high
Final gear case oil viscosity too high Air suction valve trouble
Brake dragging Vacuum switch valve trouble
Air suction valve trouble Balancer mechanism malfunctioning
Vacuum switch valve trouble

Overheating:
Poor Running or No Power at High Speed: Firing incorrect:
Firing incorrect: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact IC ignitor trouble
Spark plug incorrect Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
IC ignitor trouble Main jet clogged or wrong size
Pickup coil trouble Fuel level in carburetor float chamber too low
Ignition coil trouble Carburetor holder loose
Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Starter plunger stuck open Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
Main jet clogged or wrong size Air cleaner ciogged
Jet needle or needle jet worn Surge tank duct poorly sealed
Air jet clogged Compression high:
Fuel level in carburetor float chamber too high or Carbon built up in combustion chamber
too low Engine load faulty:
Bleed holes of air bleed pipe or needle jet clogged Clutch slipping
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Engine oil level too high
Surge tank duct poorly sealed Engine oil viscosity too high
Water or foreign matter in fuel Drive train trouble
Carburetor holder loose Final gear case oil viscosity too high
Fuel tank air vent obstructed Brake dragging
Fuel tap clogged Lubrication inadequate:
Fuel line clogged Engine oil level too low
Compression low: Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug loose Gauge incorrect:
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Water temperature gauge broken
Cylinder, piston worn Water temperature sensor broken
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking) Coolant incorrect:
Piston ring/land clearance excessive Coolant level too low
Cylinder head gasket damaged Coolant deteriorated
Cylinder head warped Cooling system component incorrect:
Hydraulic lash adjuster damaged (worn, seizure, or Radiator clogged
spring broken) Thermostat trouble
Hydraulic lash adjuster oil passage clogged Radiator cap trouble
Valve spring broken or weak Thermostatic fan switch trouble
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or Fan relay in junction box trouble
carbon accumulation on the seating surface.) Fan motor broken
Knocking: Fan blade damaged
Carbon built up in combustion chamber Water pump not turning
Fuel poor quality or incorrect Water pump impeller damaged
Spark plug incorrect
IC ignitor trouble
Backfiring when deceleration: Over Cooling:
Vacuum switch valve broken Gauge incorrect:
Air suction valve trouble Water temperature gauge broken
Coasting enricher trouble Water temperature sensor broken
 Classic Cycles Technical Resources

Cooling system component incorrect: Piston slap:

Thermostatic fan switch trouble Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Thermostat trouble Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston holes worn
Valve noise:
Engine not sufficiently warmed up after lash
Clutch Operation Faulty: adjuster installation
Clutch slipping: Hydraulic lash adjuster damaged (worn, seizure, or
No clutch lever play spring broken)
Friction plate worn or warped Air in hydraulic lash adjuster
Steel plate worn or warped Metal chips or dust jammed in hydraulic lash
Clutch spring broken or weak adjuster
Clutch release mechanism trouble Engine operated in red zone
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn Valve spring broken or weak
Clutch inner cable catching Camshaft bearing worn
Clutch not disengaging properly: Other noise:
Clutch lever play excessive Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
Clutch plate warped or too rough Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
Clutch spring compression uneven Piston ring worn, broken or stuck
Engine oil deteriorated Piston seizure, damage
Engine oil viscosity too high Cylinder head gasket leaking
Engine oil level too high Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft Crankshaft runout excessive
Clutch release mechanism trouble Engine mounts loose
Clutch hub locknut loose Crankshaft bearing worn
Primary gear worn or chipped
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Upper or lower tension spring trouble
Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
Gear Shifting Faulty: Air suction valve damaged
Doesn't go into gear; shift pedal doesn't return: Balancer gear worn or chipped
Clutch not disengaging Balancer shaft position maladjusted
Shift fork bent or seized Balancer bearing worn
Gear stuck on the shaft Balancer coupling rubber damper damaged
Gear position lever binding Oil pump chain, sprocket worn
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Shift pawl broken Clutch noise:
Jumps out of gear: Weak or damaged rubber damper
Shift fork worn Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Gear groove worn Clutch housing gear worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn Transmission noise:
Shift drum groove worn Bearings worn
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken Transmission gears worn or chipped
Shift fork pin worn Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn Engine oil insufficient
Overshifts: Drive line noise:
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken Bevel gear bearings worn
Shift mechanism arm spring broken Bevel gears worn or chipped
Bevel gears maladjusted
Rear wheel coupling damaged
Insufficient lubricant
Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:
IC ignitor trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber Abnormal Frame Noise:
Fuel poor quality or incorrect Front fork noise:
Spark plug incorrect Oil insufficient or too thin
Overheating Spring weak or broken
 www.ClassicCycles.org

Rear shock absorber noise: Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:

Shock absorber damaged Tire worn
Disc brake noise: Swing arm pivot bearing worn
Pad installed incorrectly Rim warped, or not balanced
Pad surface glazed Wheel bearing worn
Disc warped Handlebar clamp loose
Caliper trouble Steering stem head bolt loose
Drum brake noise: Handlebar pulls to one side:
Brake linings overworn or worn unevenly Frame bent
Drum worn unevenly or scored Wheel misalignment
Brake springs weak or broken Swing arm bent or twisted
Foreign matter in hub Steering maladjusted
Brake not properly adjusted Front fork bent
Other noise: Right/left fork oil level uneven
Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or Right/left rear shock absorbers unbalanced
tightened Shock absorption unsatisfactory:
(Too hard)
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On: Front fork air pressure too high
Engine oil pump damaged Rear shock absorber air pressure too high
Engine oil screen clogged Tire air pressure too high
Engine oil filter clogged Front fork bent
Engine oil level too low (Too soft)
Engine oil viscosity too low Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Camshaft bearings worn Front fork oil viscosity too low
Crankshaft bearings worn Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Oil pressure switch damaged Rear shock absorber oil leaking
Wiring damaged
Relief valve stuck open Brake Doesn't Hold:
O-ring at the oil pipe in the crankcase damaged Disc brake:
Air in the brake line
Pad or disc worn
Brake fluid leak
Disc warped
Exhaust Smokes Excessively: Contaminated pad
White smoke: Brake fluid deteriorated
Piston oil ring worn Primary or secondary cup damaged
Cylinder worn Master cylinder scratched inside
Valve oil seal damaged Drum brake:
Valve guide worn Brake maladjusted
Engine oil level too high Brake linings or drum worn
Black smoke: Overheated
Air cleaner clogged Water in brake drum
Main jet too large or fallen off .Brake cam, camshaft worn
Starter plunger stuck open Oil on brake linings
Fuel level in carburetor float chamber too high
Brown smoke: Battery Discharged:
Main jet too small Battery faulty (e.g., plates sulphated, shorted
Fuel level in carburetor float chamber too low through sedimentation, electrolyte level too
Surge tank duct loose low)
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing Batterly leads making poor contact
Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage)
Ignition switch trouble
Regulator/Rectifier trouble
Stator coil open or short
Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory: Wiring faulty
Handlebar hard to turn:
Steering stem locknut too tight Battery Overcharged:
Bearing damaged Alternator trouble
Steering bearing lubrication inadequate Regulator/Rectifier trouble
Steering stem bent Battery trouble
Tire air pressure too low Wiring faulty
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