CT Acme Ebook Complete Opt
CT Acme Ebook Complete Opt
CT Acme Ebook Complete Opt
sustainable
Ebook 2019
Ingredient Rooted
Directory in Nature
• Sustainable
• Bio-based
• Natural/organic Bio-derived
• COSMOS/Ecocert and Sustainable
• Botanicals Formulas
Beginner’s Guide
to Natural/Organic
KEY POINTS
• Brands seeking opportunities for growth
can leverage the rising consumer
sensibility toward sustainability.
I think it is clear that the drive for sustainability stemmed from an interest in self-
preservation amid the fast consumption of bio-derived, natural resources—and
the realization that these are limited.
For years, the cosmetics industry has catered to consumers hungry for
natural innovations. Somewhere along the lines, it became evident that new
approaches were necessary to ensure a steady supply chain. Different agricul-
tural practices and biotechnologies, such as stem cell cultures, emerged, and this has
extended into holistic and authentic considerations for the people along the supply
chain (fair trade/traceability), places (biodiversity) and greater good (eco-friendly);
which, as it turns out, are favored even more by consumers.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
i.e., deforestation; and fair trade/social effects. As more important to business, as it is fundamen-
such, the industry has made efforts to formulate tal to define indicators and use specific tools
with more sustainable ingredient alternatives—al- to measure, monitor and evaluate sustainable
though the authors note that lacking performance, standards. The entire cosmetics supply chain
instabilities and aesthetic challenges have been can have an impact on sustainability, so it is
limiting factors. Still, product developers continue important to consider and not neglect all steps
to iterate next-generation solutions to make a in the lifecycle of a product—from the initial
sustainable future a reality. design and sourcing of raw materials, through
Marto’s review2 gives an overview of the larger manufacturing, packaging, distribution, con-
relationship between sustainability and the cos- sumer use, and the disposal or post-consumer
metics industry, including where the challenges use phase.
lie, but also the reason(s) for progress in sustain- In relation, many ingredient suppliers and
ability: for one, the fact that we’re talking about it. manufacturers have devised apps and other
systems to trace ingredient sourcing to ensure it
Sustainability Survey is carried out sustainably. And, from a packag-
For the review, the authors examined a body ing perspective, consider how many types of
of literature on the design and formulation of recyclable and biodegradable packaging have
cosmetics to consider the impact of the different hit commercial shelves.
phases of a cosmetic’s product development cycle Sustainable ingredients: Another heavily
on its sustainability. Also considered were formu- focused area, as demonstrated at any cosmetics
lating challenges and the structure and function of tradeshow today, or all over Cosmetics & Toilet-
raw materials in relation to their sustainability. ries news, is, of course, sustainable ingredients.
Various means of data collection and analysis What does this mean? Interpretations vary,
were outlined and included reviews of: journal ar- which is why the authors note that his term
ticles, reports, books and book sections, websites, has no single, universal definition but typically
theses and patents. Notably, Cosmetics & Toiletries refers to a product with environmentally prefer-
came out on top as the resource having published able attributes. It also is typically designated
the most on sustainability in cosmetics. for ingredients designed with ethical, social and
economic responsibility in mind.
Multiple Dimensions “While it is not possible to officially label a
The analysis revealed cosmetics sustainability cosmetic product as ‘sustainable,’ there are fair
is, of course, a complex and multifaceted issue trade labels, eco-labels and sustainability and
that cannot be evaluated based on a single aspect corporate social responsibility (CSR) indexes
but instead using an integrated assessment about that, in this context, tend to draw nearer to the
the environmental, social and economical dimen- classification of what a sustainable cosmetic is,”
sions. Some notable moves by the industry were writes Marto.
identified; following are select examples. Sustainable transport: One last factor
Sustainability assessment: For the cosmet- worth mentioning that is of rising interest to
ics industry, sustainability metrics are becoming the cosmetics industry is the sustainable trans-
64 Supplier Listing
Innovative
preservative systems
for personal care.
100% Natural,
sustainable ingredients
for personal care.
KEY POINTS
• The natural/organic product industry seems
rather healthy; sales have been steadily
growing in the past 15 years.
Sustainability
and the Growth of Naturals*
N
*Adapted from Vol. 134, No. 2 | February 2019
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
requires a deep understanding of the standard shows major efforts are being made in this field.
itself, and this is something few formulators In return, [this expansion] of the ingredient
are happy to do because it can be complicated palette enables formulators to create natural
and time-consuming. However—and this is only and organic products that deliver an increas-
my personal opinion—once you get it, it can be ingly sophisticated sensorial experience, as well
very satisfactory and technically rewarding. as performance.
The key to formulating natural and organic Still, there are plenty of challenges to over-
products is the good availability of ingredients. come, and only by answering certain questions
This has been growing exponentially, and the will the level of technical challenge to be faced,
lives of formulators of natural and organic e.g., stability, color, odor, preservation, sensory
products are definitely easier than they used characteristics, etc., become clear. These
to be. As an example, the number of commer- include: How genuine should your product be?
cial references approved for use in cosmetic How should it perform? What sensory trait is
products certified to COSMOS standards has it supposed to deliver? Will it bear any certific
increased from 1,294 to 4,660 within the past ation? Is there any internal policy in place that
four years [from 2014 to 2018]; this doesn’t take could limit the ingredients used?
into account organic-certified ingredients but it One must also remember that the more
years. I think this should also stimulate deeper idea of being natural or organic. I am think-
investigations on the chemistry of plant extracts ing of concepts such as skin compatibility,
and essential oils, for example, since there are biodegradability, reduced allergic potential, the
plenty of interesting materials that can be used sustainability and renewability of raw materi-
not only in natural and organic products, but als, zero-waste production, etc. In few words,
also in more conventional ones. the product of the future should implement
Another aspect that needs to be addressed, basic concepts of care for both the environment
and that could affect the industry, is the use and skin, delivering holistic performance and
of sensory as a formulation driver. Especially therefore including emotional aspects.
capitalizing on the emotional cosmetic trend, From an ingredient point of view, I am par-
natural and organic formulae will need to ticularly interested by the possibility of using
adapt to deliver sensorial experiences aimed at botanical and food waste materials to recover
pleasing consumers. This is also an important chemicals of cosmetic interest. After all, is it not
element of the [well-aging] or “better-aging” the very essence of chemistry to investigate the
approach, which in contrast to the anti-aging composition of natural systems in order to find
view, puts the positive emotions created by the and isolate compounds that can help mankind?
use of cosmetics as a focal point to create a From a performance point of view, I find
sense of enhanced pleasure that can enable a the whole idea of holistic cosmetics extremely
more gracious aging process. fascinating; it is jaw-dropping to think how the
How do you envision this market in gut and brain could actually affect the skin.
the future?
I think the future of natural and organic
products is to be sought beyond the mere
Protecting
cosmetic formulations
with Citrus Power
Acme Hardesty
in partnership with
Sharon Laboratories
I n the last few years it is quite evident that the world is moving towards a
healthier way of living. Consumers are seeking information, asking questions,
reading product labels and actively looking for natural sourced ingredients in
their skin care products.
Sharon™ Biomix
Line
Sharon™ Biomix line is an
alternative preservative solution
for green and natural formulations
based on Biosecur ® in cooperation
with BIOSECUR LAB. The range
is ideal for leave-on and rinse-off
products. It is water soluble, heat
stable, working in a wide pH range,
with recommended level of use
of less than 1%. The Sharon™
Biomix line gives personal
care and cosmetic products a
broad-spectrum protection against
bacteria, mold and yeast.
J-Beauty meets
natural preservation
Japan is one of the world’s largest markets
in Biosecur - natural antimicrobial solution
® for cosmetics and personal care. Wellness
made with organic citrus extracts. Biosecur ® and health are rooted in the Japanese culture
is a certified organic preservative working to and Japanese products are known for their
protect from gram+ and gram- bacteria. It is high-quality.
chemical-free, non-toxic, globally approved, Botanical Factory is in Minamiosumi,
ECOCERT COSMOS certified and USDA a region of many subtropical plants. Their
Organic certified. cosmetic brand “BOTANICANON” is natural
and “original agricultural product”. They
The power of Citrus create “edible-like” cosmetics and their biggest
challenge was to gain sufficient protection to
Polyphenols and Bio- the natural products.
Flavonoids Botanical Factory chose Biosecur ® as
Biosecur ® contains Polyphenols and a sole preservative solution in their brand
Bioflavonoids. Polyphenols are found in nature, “BOTANICANON”, to gain the benefits of a
functioning as protection to the plants against natural, odorless and water soluble system.
microorganisms. Polyphenols are divided into
To learn more about the Biosecur® and the Sharon™ Biomix Line
several groups, one of which is represented
www.sharon-labs.com
by flavonoids. Flavonoids were shown to
display antibacterial and anti-oxidant activity.
Novel Bio-based
Conditioning
Polymer Acme Hardesty
in partnership with
Cosun Biobased Products
Introduction
Cationic biopolymers are
increasingly used in personal
care formulations. Their
unique functionality has
resulted in a wide range of
applications. Additionally,
thanks to the renewable
and bio-based character,
cationic biopolymers are very
suitable for more sustainable
formulations, demonstrating
better performance than
their synthetic alternatives.
As a result of the chemical
and physical differences of
QUATIN®, compared to other
cationic biopolymers, it offers
better performance in various
applications. The reactive
inulin backbone, derived from
chicory (Cichorium Intybus),
allows for unique properties
like high charge density, short
chain length (low Mw), excellent
solubility and low viscosity.
Hair conditioning
As a result of the deposition of conditioning
ingredients, combing forces are significantly
reduced. In the graph to the right, the combing
force reduction values, QUATIN® 350 and 680
respectively, are shown at a specific (0.32%
active) concentration in the formulation
(see: Conditioning Shampoo Formula in
the Formulas Section of this e-book). The
reduction in combing forces greatly affects hair
feel and consumer perception after treatment.
QUATIN® is able to increase performance
at very low dose levels and therefore is a
cost-competitive, easy-to-handle solution for
hair care formulations.
KEY POINTS
• The market for natural, green, organic and
sustainable products and ingredients has
exploded, bringing with it entrepreneurs
who are new to this space.
Beginner's
Guide to
Natural Organic
Product Safety, Claims Support and Preservation
Vol. 134, No. 2 | February 2019
B rowsing a cosmetic
counter, searching
online or tuning into
home shopping net-
works, one cannot
help but notice the
ever-increasing number of cosmetic and
personal care products purporting to be
green, natural or organic that are obviously
targeting the rapidly growing environmen-
tally conscious consumer and spa markets.
Entire sections of exhibitions and trade
shows have been dedicated
to creatively promoting the healthful and whole- Labeling Act (FPLA). The term organic is not
some benefits of green personal care. Not only defined in either of these laws or any other
has organic/natural labeling gained prominence regulations the FDA enforces. The National
in the cosmetic market, but also the concepts of Organic Program (NOP), however, does provide
sustainability and renewability. a definition of organic—albeit in foods.
In fact, recent research has shown that more The NOP was made law in October 2002
than half of global consumers profess their and is overseen by the U.S. Department of
beauty and grooming product choices are either Agriculture (USDA). It follows the Organic Food
often or always influenced by the apparent Production Act of 1990, which required the
environmental friendliness and social responsi- USDA to develop national standards for organic
bility of the brand. One of the challenges faced, products. These NOP regulations address all
however, is that with the exception of organic, aspects of food production, processing, delivery
terms such as natural and green do not have any and retail sale. Unlike organic foods and bever-
regulatory definition; although they do have a ages, however, the USDA has not created specific
generic public perception of goodness. standards for formulating, producing, process-
The U.S.-based Natural Products Association ing, handling or labeling cosmetics or personal
(NPA) has established defined qualifications for care products that contain organic ingredients.
natural and does offer a nonregulatory natural Since there are no specific organic standards
certification for foods, household and personal for personal care products, if a manufacturer
care. There is no comparable definition or wants to create a product that claims its ingre-
certification for the term natural. Companies dients are organic, the final product must go
choosing these progressive strategies therefore through a mandatory certification process.
must be fully aware not only of the U.S. regula- Without such certification, any organic claim
tory and certification requirements associated on the principal display panel or any use of the
with substantiating these types of claims, but also USDA Organic seal anywhere on the package
the necessity for basic safety and efficacy testing. is prohibited. Without certification, however,
This article serves as a guide. it is permissible to indicate on the information
panel that the product contains certified organic
Organic Standards ingredients, along with their percentages.
In the U.S., the U.S. Food and Drug Admin- If a personal care product contains or is
istration (FDA) regulates cosmetics under the made up of agricultural ingredients that meet
authority of the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic the USDA/NOP organic production, handling,
Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and processing and labeling standards, it may also
be eligible to be certified under NOP regulations.
These requirements specify that a USDA accred-
The global organic personal care market is ited organic certifying agent must verify the
projected to reach $25.11 billion by 2025, operations that produce the organic agricultural
expanding at an expected CAGR of 9.5% ingredients, plus the handlers of these agricul-
from 2018. tural ingredients and the manufacturer of the
final product, comply with NOP requirements. A
list of USDA Accredited Certifying Agents can be
Source: Grand View Research found on the NOP agency website.
Claims
tor will conduct an
D
on-site inspection of
the applicant’s opera-
tion and verify NOP
compliance.
4. The certifying agent
will then review the
application and the oes CBD affect skin in the ways
inspector’s report to
we think? What do the genetic
determine if the appli-
markers tell us? In this poster
cant complies with
the required USDA presentation, given by Bridget
organic regulations. Early of Genemarkers, we learn
5. If all is in order, the results of this hot skin care
the certifying agent trend via the testing of commercial products and extracts
approves certification
using the company's new panel test—plus, how the choice of
and issues the organic
solvent can affect the resulting outcome.
certificate.
In order to maintain
organic certification, a certi-
fied organic farm or business
must annually go through
the review and inspection
process. If the operation
is not located in the U.S.,
there are other alternative
international options for
organic certification.
Organic Labeling
Once an organization is
deemed compliant, the fol-
lowing criteria for allowable
Click here to page 21 of your February digital magazine
labeling is applicable: at www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/DM
“100% organic.” The to watch this exclusive video.
product must contain
The manufacturer
is responsible
for ensuring its
products are
safe when used in
accordance with
label directions.
procedure was derived from the original Draize wherein nine consecutive patches are applied
method for HRIPT using a three-week induc- to the same skin site on the arms or back for
tion period followed by a one-week break and a 24 hr, three times per week. After removal of the
second challenge in order to determine whether patch at each time point, the induction site is
the test product has caused the body to elicit an evaluated for erythema and edema. Two weeks
allergenic reaction. For these studies, occlusive after the last induction, a challenge patch is
or semi-occlusive patches (stretchable cotton applied for 24 hr and subsequently read at 48 hr
with adhesive backing) or Finn Chambers (fully and 96 hr. The response after the final challenge
occlusive aluminum chambers) are used. is compared to the responses reported after the
Kligman method: For this method, the test series of early induction patches. The induction
site is initially pre-irritated with sodium lauryl patch responses are the basis for interpreting a
sulfate in order to maximize the body's response product’s potential for cumulative irritation.
to irritants. Once pre-irritated, procedures similar
to the Jordan and King method of patch testing Preservative Efficacy
are followed. This test protocol can identify prod- Prior to conducting any human testing
ucts that have a minimal potential to sensitize. protocols, the test product or ingredient must
Shelanski/Shelanski method: In this test, an be free from microbial contamination and
induction phase is performed for three weeks, adequately preserved or protected so as to
Successful completion of HRIPT studies with no adverse findings can support such claims as dermatologically tested and clinically tested.
under the supervision of an ophthalmologist be developed so that only those individuals who
or dermatologist to support dermatologist- or are most appropriately qualified for the particular
ophthalmologist-tested or -approved claims; study being conducted are selected. Attention to
Phototoxicity and Photoallergy, for sun-safe detail during this initial screening process is criti-
claims; and Comedogenicity studies that evalu- cal to effectively evaluating the end results of a
ate the potential for a topical material to block treatment process. Examples of typical inclusion
skin pores. and exclusion selection criteria are as follows:
• Suggested Standards for Inclusion
Claims Substantiation a. Female subjects between the ages of 40-60
Once minimal safety has been established, years old experiencing fine lines and
the next steps for cosmetic ingredient suppli- skin dryness.
ers and finished goods manufacturers is to b. Individuals in normal health condition
substantiate label and marketing claims via with no evidence of acute or chronic dis-
any of a wide range of efficacy investigations. eases and not having any known allergy to
Depending on the ultimate endpoint(s) of cosmetic products.
distribution for a product, there may be some c. Individuals willing to report to the test
locally specific requirements. For example, the facility with clean skin.
Home Shopping Network (HSN) and Quarate d. Individuals who have completed a
Retail Group’s QVC network have their own sets preliminary medical history form.
of criteria for on-air claims, as do major retail e. Individuals who read, understood and
chains such as Walmart and CVS. If any of signed an informed consent document
these or other similar retail groups is the target relating to the specific type of study to
marketing channel, it is strongly advised to which they are subscribing.
have extensive communication with the legal or f. Individuals willing to cooperate with
reviewing teams of these organizations, to gain the investigator, comply with protocol
their approval for the protocols used prior to requirements and are able to complete the
conducting studies for claims support. full course of the study.
g. Individuals who have abstained from
Product Acceptability using any anti-aging, moisturizing and
The simplest and usually least expensive skin lightening products for at least 72 hr
option for collecting test product feedback prior to study initiation, and who agree to
on product acceptability is through the use of use only the assigned test product for the
appropriately selected consumer test panels, duration of the study.
coupled with properly constructed consumer h. Individuals who will abstain from tanning
subjective questionnaires. In order to avoid and will avoid sun exposure to test sites
the possible influence of placebo effects, which for a period of 72 hr prior to study
have been estimated to be as high as 30%, commencement and for the duration of
surveys should be administered to groups of the study.
volunteers in a double-blind design, wherein • Suggested Standards for Exclusion
both the investigator and subject do not know a. Subjects exhibiting rashes, scratches,
which treatment is being received. birthmarks, etc., that might interfere with
It is also important that test participants the evaluation of test result observations.
have a clear understanding of the questions as b. Female volunteers who indicate that they
they pertain to the skin condition being treated. are pregnant or lactating.
If, for example, it is an anti-aging product, the c. Individuals who are under the care of
subject should have an honest perception of a doctor.
their wrinkles at the beginning to establish a d. Individuals with active dermal lesions,
proper baseline—and then, an honest percep- warts, nevi or moles on the test site at the
tion of their wrinkles following treatment. time of evaluation.
Panelist selection: For any given product e. Individuals with known hypersensitivity
safety or claim support protocol, the participant to cosmetic products.
selection process is crucial. Specific inclusion f. Individuals who were taking any
and exclusion guidelines for participation must antibiotics, antihistamines, retinoid,
Products made with less than 70% organic ingredients cannot use the term organic anywhere on the pricipal display panel.
Barrier function: Transepidermal Water Since there are no “standard” tests for
Loss (TEWL) evaluates skin-barrier integrity conducting abbreviated testing for most types
and is measured using a specialized devicea. It of claims, study designs and protocols must
is based on the principle that a certain level of be carefully planned and designed so as to
water evaporation from the skin always takes maximize the quality of the data produced.
place as part of normal skin metabolism. If the Choices for methods employed vary greatly but
barrier function of the skin is slightly damaged, are usually influenced by factors including: the
however, the rate of water loss will increase. specifics of claims; the endpoint of distribution
The device probe measures the density for the product or ingredients (i.e., shopping
gradient of the water evaporation from skin networks, internet advertising or retail chain);
indirectly with a pair of temperature and internal company philosophy; as well as factors
relative humidity sensors located inside an such as meaningful population sizes, study
open chamber cylinder. The open chamber duration and ultimately, budget.
measurement method is the only method to
assess the TEWL continuously without outside Proper Labeling
factors influencing its microenvironment. A With regard to product claims, proper
microprocessor is used to analyze the values labeling is an important aspect of putting a
and expresses the evaporation rate in g/hr/m2. cosmetic product on the market. As noted,
Firmness/elasticity: The cutometer mea- the FDA regulates cosmetic labeling under the
sures the firmness and elasticity of the upper authority of the FD&C Act and the FPLA. These
skin layer by deforming it mechanically using laws and their related regulations are intended
negative pressure. The measuring principle is to protect consumers from health hazards
based on suction. Negative pressure is cre- and deceptive practices while also helping
ated in the device and the skin is drawn into them to make informed decisions regarding
the aperture of the probe for a defined time product purchases.
before being released. The penetration depth is It is important to note the FDA has no legal
determined by a noncontact optical measuring authority for the premarket approval of cos-
system inside the probe. This system consists metic product labeling. It is the manufacturer
of two prisms facing each other, serving as the or distributor's responsibility to ensure that
light source, and a light receptor. products are labeled properly. Failure to comply
The light intensity varies due to the penetra- with labeling requirements may result in a mis-
tion depth of the skin. The resistance of skin to branded product subject to potential warning
the negative pressure, firmness and its ability letters, fines and recalls.
to return to its original position, i.e., elasticity, In addition, as part of the prohibition
are calculated in terms of penetration depth against false or misleading information, no
in mm/time and is displayed as curves in real cosmetic may be labeled or advertised with
time during the measurement. The information statements suggesting the FDA has approved
derived from this measurement regarding the the product. A cosmetic can be considered
elastic and mechanical properties of the skin misbranded for any of the following reasons:
surface allows one to demonstrate an objective • Improper packaging and labeling of
quantification of skin aging. color additives;
Preliminary screenings: If timelines • False and misleading labeling;
allow, it can be valuable to conduct prelimi- • Packages missing labeling information
nary screenings on smaller test populations required by statute or regulation;
at shorter and fewer evaluation intervals to • Required information is not conspicuous or
observe emerging efficacy trends and identify is illegible; and
potentially problematic issues. This allows for • Misleading packaging such as a container
a better sense of confidence in the methods made or filled in a deceptive manner.
of investigation chosen, and a greater expec-
tation that the product will deliver results Drug Claims
as anticipated. While the FDA does not have a specific list
of acceptable versus unacceptable claims, it
a
Tewameter, Courage & Khazaka evaluates cosmetic claims in the total context
of all label wording as well as the images and may be multiple references to this term in the
promotional materials included in advertising literature. A product can be a drug, a cosmetic
and on websites. Of significance to cosmetic or a combination of both—but it cannot be
manufacturers is the fact that the agency distin- a cosmeceutical since this classification has
guishes cosmetics from drug products based on absolutely no meaning under the law.
labeled or published claims. Example cosmetic claims: Examples of
The FD&C Act defines drugs, in part, by allowable cosmetic claims include: cleansing,
their intended use, as "articles intended for use moisturizing, smoothing, freshening, helps to…
in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment or and improves the appearance of….
prevention of disease," and "articles (other than Example drug claims: Examples of
food) intended to affect the structure or any drug claims are: for the treatment of redness,
function of the body of man or other animals." acne, eczema, psoriasis or scars/wounds; and
Cosmetics are defined by their intended use anti-inflammatory, antiseptic/antibacterial/
as, "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, antimicrobial and effects related to blood
sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or circulation. Regarding drug claims, wording
otherwise applied to the human body … for related to affecting structure or function, such
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractive- as increases collagen production and speeds up
ness or altering appearance.” Products such melatonin should be avoided.
as anti-dandruff shampoos are considered to OTC drugs: There are also categories
be both cosmetics and drugs. It should also be of products such as sunscreens and anti-
noted that the FD&C Act does not recognize any perspirants that are considered OTC drug
category as cosmeceuticals, even though there products. These have specific Final Rules and
Guidelines dictating the test methods that must Antiperspirants: According to the FDA guide-
be employed for determining their efficacy. lines, antiperspirant (AP) testing is conducted
Products such as deodorants that are also on panels of subjects who have not used AP
antiperspirants, or moisturizers and makeup products for at least 17 days, and who produce
marketed with sun-protection claims must at least 150 mg of sweat in the untreated under-
comply with the requirements for both cosmet- arm axilla under environmentally controlled
ics and drugs. high temperature (100°F + 2°F) and humidity
SPF value: SPF is a measure of how well a (35% + 2%) conditions.
sunscreen will protect skin from UVB rays—the As per the FDA’s Code of Federal Regulations,
kind of radiation that causes sunburn, damages Title 21, Volume 5, Part 350, the labeling of
skin and can contribute to skin cancer. If an antiperspirant drug products must conform to
individual’s skin would normally burn after 10 the following:
min in the sun, applying an SPF 15 sunscreen (1) For any product, the labeling states:
would allow them to stay in the sun without (select one of the following: decreases, lessens
burning for approximately 150 min; i.e., a factor or reduces) underarm (select one of the follow-
of 15 times longer. This is a rough estimate that ing: dampness, perspiration, sweat, sweating or
depends on skin type, intensity of sunlight and wetness).
amount of sunscreen used. The SPF is actually (2) The labeling may state: also (select one
a measure of protection from the amount of of the following: decreases, lessens or reduces)
UVB exposure, however, and is not intended underarm (select one of the following: damp-
to help consumers determine the duration of ness, perspiration, sweat, sweating or wetness)
that exposure. due to stress.
UVB claim: In the U.S., in order to make (3) For products that demonstrate standard
a UVB claim, a sunscreen must undergo SPF effectiveness, defined as 20% sweat reduction
testing using the method described in the FDA over a 24-hr period, the labeling may state:
Sunscreen Final Rule; 21 CFR Parts 201 and (select one of the following: all day protection,
310. There are three main types of SPF testing: lasts all day, lasts 24 hours or 24 hour protection).
SPF Static, with no water immersion; SPF Water (4) For products that demonstrate extra
Resistant 40 Minutes; and SPF Water Resis- effectiveness, defined as 30% sweat reduction,
tant 80 Minutes. the labeling may state: extra effective.
All sunscreen manufacturers must adhere (5) Products that demonstrate extra effective-
to the exact same FDA approved tests, ensur- ness, defined as 30% sweat reduction sustained
ing that the SPF claims are consistent across over a 24-hr period, may state the claims in para-
all sunscreens whether they are chemical or graphs 3 and 4 of this section either individually
mineral. SPF testing is conducted with human or combined. For example: 24 hour extra effective
subjects using FDA-approved and spectrally protection, all day extra effective protection, extra
certified solar simulators. The SPF for a product effective protection lasts 24 hours or extra effective
is calculated by dividing MEDp/MEDu, where protection lasts all day.
MEDp is the Minimal Erythema Dose of the pro- The labeling of antiperspirant products also
tected test site, i.e., site treated with sunscreen, must contain the following statements under the
and MEDu is the Minimal Erythemal Dose of the heading Warnings:
Unprotected, i.e., untreated, test site. (1) Do not use on broken skin.
(2) Stop use if rash or irritation occurs. ments for these product forms can lead to very
(3) Ask a doctor before use if you have costly errors in both dollars and reputation.
kidney disease. As such, many have found it valuable and
(4) For products in an aerosolized dosage economically responsible to seek the advice
form, When using this product, keep away from and council of reputable experts in the fields of
face and mouth to avoid breathing it. This product safety, claim substantiation, regulatory
warning is required by §369.21 of the chapter affairs and microbiology, to assist in guiding
for drugs in dispensers pressurized by gaseous them through this process.
propellants.
The label must also include the following Additional Reading
statement under the heading Directions: apply All websites accessed on Aug. 31, 2018.
to underarms only. Beecher, H. K. (1995). The powerful placebo. JAMA,
159(17), 1602-1606.
Conclusions CFR 21, Chapter 1, Subchapter G, Part 740, Subpart B,
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Washington, D.C.: Personal Care Products Council (2007)
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Cosm & Toil, 92(3), 22-31.
KEY POINTS
• Demand for naturals in hair care has given
rise to new strategies for fortifying the
supply chain and ensuring the extracts
promised are also the extracts received.
• This article provides a look at historic uses
of botanicals in hair, considers responsible
sourcing, and reviews techniques to verify
extracts and their constituents.
Rooted
in Nature
2019 Bio-derived and Sustainable E-book www.acme-hardesty.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 33
Rooted in Nature
T
Jennifer M. Marsh, Ph.D.
The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio, U.S.
here is a rich history of hair is henna, which was used by many civiliza-
botanical extracts being tions for more than 6,000 years. Derived from
utilized as hair products. the plant Lawsonia inermis, its shoots and leaves
For thousands of years, were first dried, then crushed to form a paste that,
plant oils were commonly when mixed with water, could coat hair to give it a
used across all ancient red color.
civilizations to cleanse, condition, color and Other plants to color hair included indigo dye
scent hair. The choice of oil varied depending extracts, from plants of the genus Indigofera, for
on the availability of materials entering trade a black color; and saffron flowers, which were
routes: in ancient Egypt, almond, palm and mixed with lye to create a red-gold dye in Europe
sesame oils were used; in ancient Greece, olive during the Renaissance period. This became
oil was common; and in Europe during the known as “Titian red” after the famous Italian art-
Middle Ages, flax and hemp oil were popular. ist who painted beautiful women with red-golden
Natural color: Plant oils also were used hair during the late 1500s.1
for hair coloring. During the Roman Empire, Cleansing and care: Botanical extracts have
walnut shells were steeped in olive oil to turn also been used historically for hair cleansing and
it brown, which was then used to hide gray scalp treatments, such as citrus plants in ancient
hair. In China, oil from tea seeds was used to Egypt; the peel of quince fruit for cleansing alone
make hair as black as possible.1 Perhaps the in Arabia; and an extract of nettles to combat
best-known example of a plant extract to color dandruff in Europe during the Middle Ages.1
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
the plants, the drying processes used, and the it is a rinse-off or leave-on product; daily or
extraction and isolation process. One example weekly use; etc. Stabilization of the extract
is provided by Aloe vera, whose powdered form, against microbial attack is another important
in one case, revealed concentrations of organic consideration, especially if the sample is in an
acids whereas the only organic acid found in aqueous solvent.
fresh Aloe vera gel was malic acid. Commercial
aloe powders were analyzed and found to also Functional Naturals
include lactic and succinic acid, which are indi- Once sustainability, quality and safety have
cators of bacterial fermentation and enzymatic been confirmed, the question of functionality
degradation, respectively;9 this indicated a becomes paramount. There are thousands of
substandard extract. plant species and these contain millions of
Besides the quality of the extract, it is impor- different compounds, so identifying the right
tant to confirm its safety profile and consistency plants for the required activity can be challeng-
across the board. This ensures no constituents ing. One can look to history as a guide, as there
could potentially cause acute or chronic health are many traditional uses of plants—such as oils
impacts. To validate safety and consistency, a for moisturization and protection, or aloe vera
comparative approach has been used, wherein for skin irritation—that are worth further study.
chemical groups in the extract are identified as Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine both use
suitable for a read-across approach. This allows plants for treating a wide range of diseases, and
for the estimation of toxicological endpoints plants including digitalis, foxglove, atropine and
based on data from substances with related belladonna are the sources of some of the most
physical/chemical properties. potent drug actives. There are also synergies
However, botanical ingredients are complex between plants and ecological challenges that
mixtures consisting of numerous individual phy- can be exploited; such as plants that adapt
tochemical constituents, so this approach may to protect themselves against environmental
not be suitable in all cases. One alternative is to insults such as UV, microbial infection, arid
take a tiered approach, which aims to provide a conditions or heat. As an example, plants often
comprehensive yet time-efficient assessment.10 contain vitamins C and A, which aid in their
Tier 1 involves establishing a threshold of cellular protection but can also help in skin
toxicological concern (TTC) based on an initial protection. Functional naturals are used for hair
TTC exposure limit of 0.15 µg/day, and adjusting and scalp care, including oils for conditioning
this based on the concentration of phytochemi- benefits and natural dyes such as henna for hair
cal constituents of concern found in plants for coloring. Coconut oil and aloe vera are also sold
genotoxicity and carcinogenicity end points. for scalp benefits including anti-dandruff, anti-
When the botanical active exceeds the TCC, irritation and anti-itch.
Tier 2 investigates if documented significant Once a plant species has been identified,
human use data exists to act as a surrogate another question is which part of the plant
measure for safety. If insufficient, Tier 3 involves should be used for the extract—the flower, leaf
the identification and quantification of botani- or root. Furthermore, the method of extraction
cal constituents. These individual constituents can yield a different mix of constituents. The
are then assessed via in silico toxicology tools solvent choice, for example, can dramatically
to identify hazards. The overall safety assess- impact the extract composition, with the
ment would then also consider product use, more hydrophilic constituents extracted into
i.e., expected dose on hair versus scalp; whether aqueous and alcoholic solvents, and the more
Bio-derived and
The ingredients presented in this directory are
highlighted for their bio-derived and sustainable
characteristics, and serve various functions in
formulations. These listings were chosen based on
Sustainable Ingredients
key search terms in their descriptions—as entered
by suppliers within the past two years into our
free online ingredient database, the Cosmetics &
Toiletries Bench Reference (CBR).
Search terms included: natural, bio-based,
bio-derived, sustainable, eco-friendly, fair trade,
COSMOS, Ecocert, botanical, vegan and food Feel Enhancer, Powder, Whitening Agent- Exfoliant, Feel Enhancer, Thickener,
grade. Also included are ingredients of plant/ Teeth Whitening Agent-Teeth
botanical, mineral and/or fermentation origin. Peach Stone Powder, BioPowder.com/
Kaolin Schilling Ltd.
Visit CosmeticsandToiletries.com/cbr to search Lion Kaolin, CB Minerals LLC
the entire database. Additional Functions: Exfoliant
Additional Functions: Absorption Base,
Exfoliant
Pumice
Pumice, CB Minerals LLC
Mica Additional Functions: Dentrifice-Powder,
Micro Mica C3000, CB Minerals LLC Exfoliant, Powder, Skin Cleanser
This is an interactive PDF. Click on any Additional Functions: Colorant
trade name or formula title to connect
to our free Cosmetics & Toiletries Quartz, Silicon Dioxide Hydrate
Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder High Purity Quartz, CB Minerals LLC
Bench Reference (CBR) for more
Olive Stone Granules, BioPowder.com/ Additional Functions: Buffer
information, or to request a sample.
Schilling Ltd.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Zeolite
Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Binder,
Zeolite, CB Minerals LLC
ABRASIVE Bleaching Agent, Cellulite Treatment,
Additional Functions: Absorption Base,
Coupling Agent, Dentrifice-Powder,
Odor-masking Agent, Polish, Powder
Whitening Agent-Teeth
Alumina
Alumina, CB Minerals LLC
Additional Functions: Absorption Base Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Extract ABSORPTION BASE
Avocado Stone Powder, BioPowder.com/
Schilling Ltd.
Argania Spinosa Fruit Extract Sericite
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Argan Shell Granules, BioPowder.com/ Sericite, CB Minerals LLC
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Schilling Ltd. Additional Functions: Oil Absorbent
Colorant, Feel Enhancer, Flavoring Agent,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Moisturizer, Skin Protectant
Antioxidant, Binder, Cellulite Treatment, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch
Colorant, Dentrifice-Powder Farmal CS 3757, Ingredion Inc.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Shell Powder Additional Functions: Anti-caking, Delivery
Caolinitic Mineral Clay, Clays (White, Yellow, System, Feel Enhancer, Polymer, Powder
Almond Shell Granules, BioPowder.com/
Red, Green, Pink)
Schilling Ltd.
Red Clay, CB Minerals LLC
Additional Functions: Binder, Bleaching
Additional Functions: Colorant ACNE TREATMENT
Agent, Exfoliant, Feel Enhancer, Powder,
Thickener
Clays (White, Yellow, Red, Green, Pink)
Clay, CB Minerals LLC Argania Spinosa Fruit Extract
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder Argan Oil Deodorized (Argania spinosa),
Additional Functions: Colorant, Exfoliant,
Apricot Stone Granules, BioPowder.com/ Kalaroma LLC
Skin Cleanser
Schilling Ltd. Additional Functions: Hair Anti-aging, Hair
Rhassoul Clay, CB Minerals LLC Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Repair, Skin Protectant, Skin Treatment-
Additional Functions: Absorption Base, Antioxidant, Exfoliant, Powder, Whitening Chapped Skin
Exfoliant Agent-Teeth
Decylene Glycol
Juglans Regia (Walnut) Shell Powder Prunus Persica (Peach) Seed Powder SymClariol, Symrise, Inc.
Walnut Shell Granules, Walnut Shell Powder, Peach Stone Granules, BioPowder.com/ Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
BioPowder.com/Schilling Ltd. Schilling Ltd. Deodorant, Foam Booster/Stabilizer,
Additional Functions: Colorant, Exfoliant, Additional Functions: Binder, Colorant, Moisturizer
Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Seedcake Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum Valine
Amanduline HC BIO, Silab Parkii (Shea) Butter, Elaeis Guineensis Valine, Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
(Palm) Oil
Acai Butter, International Cosmetics Science Virola Sebifera Nut Oil
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Centre A/S (ICSC) Uccúba Butter, Citróleo
Passion Fruit Oil, refined, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin
Cooling/Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin,
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Extract Fructose, Urea, Citric Acid, Sodium
Acai Butter Organic I.S., International Hydroxide, Maltose, Sodium PCA, Sodium
Amanduline SG, Silab Chloride, Sodium Lactate, Trehalose,
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucose
Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/ Hydroviton Plus, Symrise, Inc.
HUMECTANT Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant,
Skin Smoothing
Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin,
Glycerin Sodium Lactate, Lactic Acid, Serine, Urea,
Glutamine Sorbitol, Allantoin
Glycerin 99.7%, Acme-Hardesty Co.
Glutamine, Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Hydroviton 24, Symrise, Inc.
SKIN COOLING/SOOTHING
Pearlescent Pigments SURFACTANT-ANIONIC
Pearl and Effects Pigments,
Diafana Representaciones Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Lavender Essential Oil (Bulgarian), New Sodium Coco-sulfate
Directions Aromatics Inc. SCS 95, Acme-Hardesty Co.
PRESERVATIVE
SKIN LIGHTENING THICKENER
Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic
Acid, Tocopherol
euxyl K 903, schulke Tetrahydropiperine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin
Tetrahydropiperine, BetaFib MCF, Cosun Biobased Products
DMDM Hydantoin Novel Nutrients Pvt. Ltd.
DMDM hydantoin, Acme-Hardesty Co. Tapioca Starch
Nativacare 9330, Ingredion Inc.
Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate SKIN SMOOTHING
Lexgard Natural, INOLEX
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, Phalaenopsis
Thymol, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol Amabilis Extract
SharoSense 251, Sharon Laboratories Ltd. Extrapone Orchid, Symrise, Inc.
Introduction
The active α-bisabolol has a great importance to the cosmetics and pharmaceutics industries. The natural compound is
extracted mostly by the Candeia (Eremanthus erythropappus) a Brazilian native tree, whose occurrence is quite broad, being
manly concentrate in the region of Serra da Mantiqueira and Serra do Espinhaço, in the Minas Gerais state (Brazil). It can be
used in several products as an anti-irritant, that is, can help in the prevention of irritation caused by other ingredients present
in the formulation. Such effect is due to its anti- inflammatory properties: inhibits the edematous process and it also capable
of reducing the UV induced erythema.
Citroleo is a 100% Brazilian company. Present in the market for more than 33 years, its brand has been established
and is internationally recognized for its quality standards and commitment to sustainability. The (-) α-bisabolol produced by
Citroleo is a natural product, obtained by fractional distillation of the essential oil of Candeia. The Candeia oil is obtained
through the implementation of the plantation in Citroleo’s private forest and in the native forest with stewardship plan in
partnerships with rural producers. Respecting the specific legislation the stewardship plan and plantation for the Candeia
tree, which contemplate not only the planned removal of trees, but also the preservation of the trees for sowing and natural
regeneration. The company has several environmental projects of sustainable planting to preserve the natural biodiversity of
the fauna and the flora, besides its social responsible with the producers and their families.
There are different ingredients in the market commonly called “Bisabolol”: the natural product free-from farnesol, as
the Citroleo Company, which contains 100% of levorotatory isomer ((-) isomer); a product of biotechnologies technics, whose
supply chain are still completely unknown; and the synthetic one, which contains the racemic mixture (± isomers), both last
two containing farnesol. It has long been known that individual stereoisomer can have different pharmacological,
pharmacokinetic, toxicological and metabolic actions in the chiral biological systems.
www.citroleogroup.com
Once a new product is prepared in the format of racemic mixture, and not as a pure isomer, toxicological studies must be
carried for this new composition, since the isomer now can show distinct activities. It is important to note that there is a long
human experience and wide scientific literature supporting the safe use of the natural (-) α-bisabolol while the most respect
surveys basis in the area did not show evidences of published studies about the synthetic product, which is a racemic mixture
and contains the (+)-α-bisabolol, up to now, an understudied agent.
In this present study the effectiveness of the natural active (-)-α-bisabolol will be shown by the comparison of the synthetic
product supported by the existing literature.
Nowadays, the search for natural products is constantly increase, as long as it’s source as know. With that the actives
produced from the natural forms, are usually free from side effects, easy to obtain, considered healthy, and create income to
the local farmers.
Due to its pharmacological properties and low toxicity besides being biodegradable, the active is target for several scientific
investigations to show the potential effect against some disease like glioma (a malignant tumor which achieves the cells
responsible by the nutrition of the neurons of the central nervous system) (CAVALIERI, et al., 2004), rheumatoid arthritis
(COSMETIC, 1999) and skin whitening (LEE et al., 2010) (both as adjuvant in the treatment) besides its use in cosmetics as
an anti-inflammatory agent of topic use. However, it is known that only the enantiomeric form (-) α-bisabolol has biological
activity, showing that although a synthetic similar can be obtained to the natural form of the active, even in a high degree of
purity, the action potential will not yet be equipotent (NOVAES, 2013).
The synthetic version of alpha bisabolol (± isomers), as already mentioned, is a racemic mixture of the active isomers, in other
words, the synthetic bisabolol must have a portion of the negative isomer (Natural Bisabolol), to present some efficacy.
www.citroleogroup.com
The synthesis of a new chemical consists of transformations of raw materials into an end product, through reactions under
controlled conditions. Such conditions, in addition to physical parameters, involve chemical compounds of different
compositions, characteristics and toxicities. The manufacture of a compound of this synthetic nature comprises not only the
commercially acceptable yield; safety and socio-environmental responsibilities are important criteria that must be analyzed
and respected, and it is necessary to evaluate the whole production chain for a complete diagnosis of efficiency.
It’s very interesting to notice that the there is a little available information about the synthetic bisabolol. The most of the works
report the use of farnesol as a starting material, with 50-70% yields. Farnesol is a natural organic compound which is an acyclic
sesquiterpene alcohol. In the most of cases, it is a hydrophobic colorless liquid and miscible with oils. This compound is cited
in the 26 Allergens List according to Annex III of Cosmetic Directive by 7th Amendment (2003/15/EC) for its irritation potential
in sensitive skin. This may be a warning for the moderate use of chemically obtained substances until new studies prove that
they are completely free from harmful interference or offer no risk to consumers. On the other hand, a recent work shows that
not only nature (-)-α-bisabolol has a gastro protective effect (on ethanol-induced ulcer model) but also the others substances
in oil composition, showing a benefit of using natural products (ROCHA et al., 2010).
The natural (-)-α-bisabolol produced by Citroleo is farnesol free. This ensures that the active is not harmful for children or
adults, and can be used in all types of products for sensitive skin, including babies. Also, the natural product is widely used by
the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, in a range of formulations for hair, face and body like: lipsticks and products for
oral hygiene (toothpaste, mouth rinse), sunscreens and post sun, after-shave products, oils and baby products, anti-acne
products, makeups and deodorants, creams for hands and hair conditioners. Some data found in the literature show that in
addition to farnesol, natural α-bisabolol (in lower concentrations) is also a raw material for the production of the synthetic
alternative. So, both actives source like Chamomile and Candeia tree. In this way, the argument to use synthetic product
instead the natural one for the preservation of resources is not sustained; so producers committed to the entire value chain
of obtaining natural products, such as Citroleo, represent a new look of innovation and socio-environmental responsibility.
Proceeding in observations with the whole production chain of (-) α-bisabolol, it’s very important to attend the beginning of
the process; Citroleo is a pioneer company in the manufacture of nature (-) α-bisabolol of Candeia, and is committed to the
most respectful and serious certifications and with the Integrated Management Policy, being in compliance with the norms
NBR ISO 9001: 2008. Due to the low toxicity found in natural active, the FDA (Food and Drug Administration – from USA)
classified it as Generally Regarded as Safe (GRAS) proving its safety in applications including in the food industry.
www.citroleogroup.com
Keep communities Obtaining high-quality, Respect to APP and Preserved Fair remuneration
in the field sustainable raw Legal Reserves Forest to farmers and
materials communities
The environmental certification obtained by Citroleo demonstrates that its performance in a responsible way contributes to
the conservation of natural resources, providing dignified and fair conditions for workers and promoting good relations with
the community close to their area. Conscious of the correct use of natural resources, Citroleo employs sustainable
management techniques, evaluating its environmental, social and economic aspects, respecting the pertinent legislation and
not compacting with practices of illegal extraction of wood and other forestry activities that hurt the concepts of ethics. With
legal and approved modern techniques, the company maintains a program for the production of seedlings and sustainable
plantings. This program includes the production and distribution of more than 10,000 seedlings per year focusing on the
sustainable stewardship plan of the natural forests. This shows that the production of nature (-) α-bisabolol presents no risk
of degradation or deforestation of Candeia forests.
In a pilot project partnership with rural producers (the Forest Partnership Pilot Project) was implemented in the state of Minas
Gerais, for the stewardship plan and sustainable planting of the tree, including support and income generation for local
communities. Another project with Citroleo’s commercial plantation is located in Aiuruoca (State Park of Serra do Papagaio),
an important Environmental Conservation Unit. The planting contributes to the preservation of the scenic beauty of the park,
flora and fauna native to the area. Its contributes to the conservation of natural resources and local species, preserving areas
of permanent preservation (APP), biodiversity, water springs and water courses. In addition, all water used in industrial
processes goes through the process of treatment and decontamination and then is reused, as well as, all production residue
generated undergoes complete treatment before disposal.
Regarding the seasonality implicit in the extraction of natural products, it is important to observe that the area of occurrence
of Candeia, integrated with the sustainable planning of the crop management, offers the producer security and reliability of
delivery (400 to 2200 meters, in 5 different states, includes the fields of Cerrado, Caatinga and Atlantic Forest). In addition,
among all species already studied that contain (-) α-bisabolol in its composition, it is possible to highlight the Candeia, which
besides the considerable biomass production by area, presents high content of the active, with high yield of oil per cultivated
plant (SCOLFORO et al., 2012).
www.citroleogroup.com
It is important to highlight, the seasonality is not applied from Candeia tree when handled properly, as it is done by Citróleo.
So, there is no interference in product availability.
Conclusion
Thus, with all the above considerations, it can be observed that the actual efficacy of a chemical active (synthetic product)
comprises not only the chemical results of action and yield; all the details of the value and production chains must be
analyzed. Although it is said as similar to the natural in the market, the chemically obtained compounds still have several
disadvantages in relation to the natural, such as, for example, secondary components with irritant action (such as farnesol) as
well as others residues and components still unknown. In addition, natural (-) α-bisabolol (produced by Citroleo) has its
production completely clean and transparent shown in all stages and methodologies used, from the planting of seedlings to
the sale of the final active. Considering the new emerging technologies to obtain α-bisabolol, such as biotechnological
production mediated by microorganisms, it is emphasized that many studies and tests still have to be performed for reliability
of the results. This is because, so far, the industrial processes involved, as well as the strains used and, above all, the long-term
human exposure effects are not known. In contrast, (-) α-bisabolol offered by Citroleo is pure and 100% Natural, of
non-genetically modified origin and has been on the market for more than 40 years, with no ill effects already reported.
References
CAVALIERI, E.; MARIOTTO, S.; FABRIZI, C.; DE PRATI, A. C.; GOTTARDO, R.; LEONE, S.; BERRA, L. V.; LAURO, G. M.; CIAMPA, A. R.;
SUZUKI, H. “α-Bisabolol, a nontoxic natural compound, strongly induces apoptosis in glioma cells”. Biochem. Biophys. Res.
Commun., 315, 589–594, 2004.
COSMETIC INGREDIENT REVIEW EXPERT PANEL, Int. J. Toxicol., 18 (3), 33-40, 1999.
LEE, J.; JUN, H.; JUNG, E.; HA, J.; PARK, D. “Whitening effect of alpha-bisabolol in Asian women subjects”, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci, 32
(4), 299-303, 2010.
NOVAES, Leandro da Rocha. Potencialização das atividades biológicas através de modificações estruturais do α-Bisabolol.
2013. Dissertation (Master in New Materials and Fine Chemistry) - School of Engineering of Lorena, University of São Paulo,
Lorena, 2013. doi:10.11606/D.97.2013.tde-08102013-101325. Access: 2018-01-11.
ROCHA, N. F. M.; VENÂNCIO, E. T.; MOURA, B. A., SILVA, M. I. G.; NETO, M. R. A.; RIOS, E. R. V.; de SOUZA, D. P.; VASCONCELOS,
S. M. M.; FONTELES, M. M. F.; de SOUZA, F. C. F.“Gastroprotection of (-)-α-bisabolol on acute gastric mucosal lesions in mice:
the possible involved pharmacological mechanisms”, Fundam. Clin. Pharmacol, 24, 63–71, 2010.
SCOLFORO, J. R.; de OLIVEIRA, A., D.; DAVIDE, A. C. “O manejo sustentável da candeia”, 1. ed., Lavras: Ed UFLA, 2012.
SIMON, J. S. e MORAES, C. A. P. “Estudo da aplicação do (-)-α-bisabolol em um corretivo para a área dos olhos”, Iniciação -
Revista de Iniciação Científica, Tecnológica e Artística - Edição Temática em Saúde e Bem Estar, 6 (5), 2017. ISSN 2179-474X
SINGH, O.; KHANAM, Z.; MIRSA, N.; SRIVASTAVA, M. “Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla L.): An overview”, Pharmacogn. Rev.,
5 (9), 82, 2011.
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Bio-derived and Sustainable Formulas
Procedure: Add A to main beaker. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Once dis- Nourish and Protect Conditioner
solved, add C to AB. Add D to batch and mix until homogenous. Heat mixture to
60°C. Combine E and heat to 60°C. Mix until completely homogenous. Add to main (Citróleo)
batch and mix for 20 min. Allow formula to gradually cool. At 35°C, add F. Mix under This conditioner provides action against moisture loss and guarantees hair softness
moderate shear. and protection. In addition, it maintains the natural alignment of hair.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Inspired By Nature Ecocert/COSMOS Facial Cream
Disodium EDTA 0.50
(Sharon Laboratories) Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty) 2.00
Inspired by nature, this silky feeling facial cream is based on Ecocert/COSMOS compli- Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (Green Behenic (BAPDMA),
ant ingredients, including the the Sharon Biomix product. This preservative solution Citroleo) 1.50
enables formulators to easily stabilize soft and rich textures not easily achieved in B. Lactic Acid 0.35
natural formulations. Sharon Biomix II (comprising Sharon's Biosecur blend and C. Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acnme-Hardesty) 8.00
natural phenethyl alcohol) is recommended at a use level of 0.8-0.9% and does not
Ceteareth-20 (Ceteareth-20, Acme-Hardesty) 0.50
impact formula stability.
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w (Incroquat Behenyl TMS, Croda) 1.20
Guar Gum 0.20 Bisabolol (and) Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (and) Virola Sebifera
Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty) 4.00 Nut Oil (and) Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter (and)
B. Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acme-Hardesty) 3.00 Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil (and) Macadamia Ternifolia
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT 3595, Acme-Hardesty) 20.00 Seed Oil (AlphaVelvety, Citroleo) 3.00
Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Glycerin (and) Citrus Reticulata Butylated Hydroxytoluene 0.05
(Tangerine) Fruit Extract (and) Citrus Aurantium Amara D. Citric Acid qs
(Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract (and) Citrus Sinensis (Orange) E. Preservatives qs
Peel Extract (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Citric Acid (and) Fragrance (parfum) qs
Lactic Acid (and) Water (aqua) (Sharon Biomix Pure II,
Sharon Laboratories Ltd.) 0.80 Procedure: Mix A under heating to 70-80°C. Add B (lactic acid 90%) to A until
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68, complete homogenization of the surfactant. Mix C. Add C to AB under stirring and
Seppic) 5.00 heating. After homogenous, stop heating. If necessary, correct pH with D. Add E and
homogenize; properties: viscosity = 150 Pa.s (RH4 max. 200 Pa.s @ 25°C); pH = 4.9.
Procedure: Heat water to 45-50°C. Add A while stirring until fully dissolved. Heat B
while stirring until melted and unified. Homogenize AB at approx. 55°C. Premium Body Shampoo
(Cosun Biobased Products)
Lipstick for Chapped Lips This creamy and rich-foaming formula offers moisturization and mildness.
(Citróleo)
A. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
This formula with a pleasant matte effect imparts intense moisturization with gentle (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Lumorol K 5601,
spreadability to prevent cracking and imperfections on the lips.
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH) 42.00% w/w
A. Bisabolol (and) Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (and) Virola Sebifera Fragrance (parfum) qs
Nut Oil (and) Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter (and) B. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin (Quatin 350 TQ-D, Cosun
Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil (and) Macadamia Ternifolia Biobased Products) 1.25
Seed Oil (AlphaVelvety, Citroleo) qs to 100.00% w/w Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol (Dermofeel
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (PEG-40 Hydrogenated PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.05
Castor Oil, Acme-Hardesty) 10.00 Sodium Benzoate (Sodium Benzoate, Sharon Labs) 0.40
Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acme-Hardesty) 5.00 Citric Acid qs
Ceteareth-20 (Ceteareth-20, Acme-Hardesty) 0.50 Water (aqua) qs
Butylated Hydroxytoluene 0.05
B. Preservatives qs Procedure: Homogenize A. Homogenize B. Add B to A and stir until homogenous.
Fragrance (parfum) qs Control the pH and adjust, if necessary, to pH 5.6; properties: appearance; clear and
viscous; viscosity, at pH 5.4–5.8 = 10,000–12,000 mPa.s (@20°C).
Procedure: Heat A to 70-80°C until complete solubilization with gentle homogeniza-
tion. At 40°C, add B to A and homogenize.
Procedure: Add all ingredients to main beaker, mixing after each addition. Mix batch
until homogenous.
Procedure: Mix A and homogenize. Heat to 70-80°C. Mix B and homogenize at 70-
80°C. Add B to A at temperature and under stirring. Stop heating. Adjust pH with C. At 0.7%, the SharoSense Plus 184 natural-like, polar
Add D and homogenize; properties: viscosity = 3,411 Pa.s. (RH4 max. 200 Pa.s @
25°C); pH = 5.15. preservative shows excellent results.