Heritage Building Maintenance Manual
Heritage Building Maintenance Manual
Heritage Building Maintenance Manual
MAINTENANCE MANUAL
This manual contains useful information on restoring and preserving heritage buildings, but it
is intended as a general guide only. The Provincial Government has taken all reasonable steps
to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication. However, it recommends that
building owners consult with specialists, such as contractors, builders, plumbers, heating and
air professionals and electricians, when doing any renovations, repairs or construction on their
properties. The province does not assume responsibility for any loss or damage resulting from
reliance on the information in this manual.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3
PART 1. WHAT IS MAINTENANCE? 5
PART 2. PRE-PLANNING 7
PART 3. WHERE DO I START? 9
PART 4. MAINTAINING THE PARTS 15
4.1 Building Envelope 15
4.2 Foundations 16
4.3 Exterior Walls 18
4.4 Roof 21
4.5 Gutters and Downspouts 24
4.6 Site Drainage 26
4.7 Windows and Doors 28
4.8 Features and Details 30
4.9 Energy Efficiency 33
PART 5. WORKSHEETS 35
5.1 Inspection Checklist 36
5.2 Maintenance Checklist 46
5.3 Maintenance Record 54
5.4 Project Worksheet 55
5.5 Budget 56
5.6 Frequently Called Numbers 59
PART 6. REFERENCES 61
6.1 Toolkit Checklist 63
6.2 The Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada 65
6.3 Hiring a Professional 69
6.4 Troubleshooting 72
6.5 Resource List 75
The Historic Resources Branch gratefully acknowledges the support of the Government of Canada through the Historic Places
Initiative, a federal, provincial, territorial partnership.
INTRODUCTION 3
4
PART 1:
WHAT IS MAINTENANCE?
PART 1. WHAT IS MAINTENANCE?
All building materials decay eventually due to sunlight, rain and wind, and therefore they
require continued attention if a building’s condition is to be maintained. Modest spending on
regular maintenance can reduce the need for costly repairs, protect the fabric of your building
and save you money in the longer term.
As defined by the Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada
(2004), MAINTENANCE is:
Routine, cyclical, non-destructive actions necessary to slow the deterioration of a historic place. It
entails periodic inspection; routine, cyclical, non-destructive cleaning; minor repair and refinishing
operations; replacement of damaged or deteriorated materials that are impractical to save.
The best type of protection is to do regular and routine maintenance, to prevent extensive and
expensive repairs. Maintenance planning must be consistent with your needs and respectful
of your financial means, while ensuring that your building is evaluated annually. A plan that is
too complicated or onerous will simply not get completed.
Much of the work we are encouraging in this manual is planned maintenance. In the initial
phases of developing a maintenance plan, there may be corrective or emergency maintenance
that must be done before a routine, cyclical approach can be adopted.
PART 2. PRE-PLANNING 7
Is your budget realistic?
• The potential for unforeseen events or delays during the course of a renovation project are
always present and can greatly affect the final cost of the work. Unwelcome surprises in the
building itself (especially in walls, where shoddy work may have been masked, or where an
unusual procedure has been employed) can also escalate costs.
• Thoroughly investigating the area to be worked on, checking for hidden or unused building
elements within walls (such as radiant heat lines in a building converted to forced air) will
reduce the element of surprise in a project, in turn making cost estimates more accurate.
• Plan for cost overruns. Apply a contingency element in your budget that, if necessary, can
be made available to bring your project to completion.
• After factoring in the potential for surprises, is the project still within your budget?
8 PART 2. PRE-PLANNING
PART 3:
WHERE DO I START?
PART 3. WHERE DO I START?
This is a familiar question to anyone who has faced the sheer volume of work to be done
and tried to prioritize the needs of a conservation project. This next section identifies five
steps of the conservation process. These steps will apply to any conservation project, not just
maintenance tasks, and may be useful for you to review whenever you are considering work to
your historic place.
STEP 3: Do an inspection
The purpose of an inspection is to get an overall, accurate view of the entire property. This will
help you set goals and objectives to fulfill your needs. Begin with a complete inspection, which
will give you a detailed critical review of all parts of the building and grounds. This should be
done by someone who has a broad and detailed knowledge of the building trades, both past
and present. An understanding of how the building was meant to work when it was built and a
knowledge of modern technologies are both necessary to accurately determine conditions.
It may be valuable to hire a professional for your first maintenance cycle. Once the initial
assessment has been done, the cyclical plan should be manageable for you to handle.
Additionally, past records or reports can be very useful in understand your building and its
maintenance needs. Inspection and/or condition reports or structural assessments from the
past (if available) pinpoint chronic problems or areas that should be monitored.
Inspections for each building part are discussed more thoroughly in Part 4. Maintaining the
Parts. Examine each part of the building and make notes on the current condition. Records will
not only help you decide what needs to be done immediately, it will also help you understand
the changes that may occur to your building over the years. There is an inspection checklist
template in Part 5. Worksheets of this manual for your use. You may want to add items specific
to your building so you ensure a thorough inspection every year.
Emergency maintenance includes those tasks which require immediate attention to prevent
personal injury or serious deterioration. After your initial assessment, if there appears to be
tasks that cannot wait for routine maintenance, you should do the work as soon as possible.
Preservation
“The action or process of protecting, maintaining and/or stabilizing the existing materials, form and
integrity of a historic place, or of an individual component, while protecting its heritage value.”
• materials and features are essentially intact and no extensive repair or replacement is necessary
Rehabilitation
“The action or process of making possible a continuing or compatible contemporary use for a
historic place, or of an individual component, through repair, alterations and or additions, while
protecting its heritage value.”
• more than just minor repairs are needed
• may include the replacement of missing elements and/or the introduction of new features
Most maintenance tasks will be classified as preservation because the planned work is typically
about stabilization, with no major replacement of original material. The level of intervention is a
sliding scale depending on the type of work being completed.
Inspecting Foundations
Movement
Check for signs of recent building settlement.
o Are any serious cracks visible?
o Are there any signs of movement -- patched cracks re-opening, cracks in walls, bulging
siding, windows or doors out of square?
o Is the roofline straight and horizontal?
o Are beams, columns, posts and joists sound?
o Are posts vertical and stable?
o Are the foundation walls plumb?
Moisture
o Are there any signs of leaking?
o Are there any signs of excessive moisture -- musty smell, corrosion?
o Is there any efflorescence or peeling paint on the walls or floor?
o Is there any condensation forming?
o Are there water stains or rotted wood near the floor?
o Are the wood posts, beams or floor joists damp or soft?
Exterior
o Is the parging in good condition? Are there any new cracks or flaking?
o Is the ground properly sloped away from the building?
o Are there any trees or saplings growing near the foundation?
Inspecting Walls
o Have the roots of ivy, creepers or over-growth penetrated the surface of the walls? These
encourage moisture and insect intrusion.
o Are there lichens and mosses present? These retain moisture and can stain wall surfaces.
o Is there damage from wind? After any windstorm, inspect the walls to ensure that there was
no damage as a result of objects striking the exterior.
o Are there bird droppings? Acids in droppings can severely damage stone.
o In masonry walls, is there evidence of anchor corrosion? Cracking or spalling of masonry
can occur as a result of corroding metal set into masonry. Corrosion can also lead to
staining via water runoff.
o Is there evidence of moisture penetration? In buildings whose walls are sheathed with wooden
siding this will be expressed as peeling or blistered paint. In masonry and stucco-covered
buildings this will be expressed through efflorescence (deposits of white or grey powdery salts
left by moisture that travels through building materials), or more often, through cracks.
o Cracks are the most obvious expression of a failure in a masonry wall. Some forms of cracking
are more serious than others. The level of concern depends on: the size of the crack, the
location and direction of the crack, and the rate of change in the crack. Keep in mind that it
is not unusual for a masonry building to have some cracking. However, it is also important to
recognize and monitor closely those cracks that change in length and gap, run horizontally
or through building materials, or are large enough to insert a pencil. If possible, cracks of this
nature should be examined by a qualified assessor of structures (e.x. an engineer or architect).
o In masonry walls, is there evidence of mortar deterioration (e.x. no mortar present in the joint
within 4 cm of the wall surface, mortar that can be easily scraped from the joint, mortar that has
taken on a sand-like texture and crumbles, or mortar that cleanly separates from the brick). In
such cases a repointing project, in which mortar is removed and replaced, will be necessary.
This log has been damaged by water. Investigate the source of the water and
address the cause of deterioration before replacing the log.
Peeling or flaking paint is often a sign of heat or water damage. The best treatment is The missing downspout has created a build
to remove as much loose paint as possible; identify if the existing layer is oil-based or up on the exterior wall. Cleaning may do more
latex paint; prime with appropriate exterior primer; and apply a fresh coat of paint. damage, so it may be better to just leave it there.
The restoration of heritage buildings can involve the removal of materials that may be hazardous to your
health. Before sanding or removing old paint, it is best to ensure that proper safety equipment is being
used. We recommend reading Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation’s pamphlet “Lead in Your
Home”. A copy can be obtained by http://www.cmhc.ca/en/co/maho/yohoyohe/inaiqu/inaiqu_007.cfm
Inspecting A Roof
o Check the covering over the ridge or hip of a roof to make sure it is tight, without gaps.
o Where ventilation is introduced to a roof system (ridge vent, soffit vent, gable end vent)
ensure that the sealing details (screens, flashing, caulking) are visually inspected.
o Check for loose or missing shingles. Look for moss growth, overhanging branches, levelness
of roof.
o Check the roof at changes in pitch or direction (gambrel roof or at the valleys) for failing
materials or gaps.
o Look at flashing for cracks, holes and looseness.
o Search roofing materials for deterioration - cracks, blisters or curling, and for any loose or
missing parts.
o Inspect soffits and fascia for deterioration (sagging) or openings where animals/insects
could find access or where they could nest.
o Inspect the joints where roof and siding meet for cracks.
o Look for evidence of decay in the rafter ends and for water damage on a cornice.
o Look for signs of clogging, inadequate slopes, or defects in the gutters and downspouts.
Inspecting a Chimney
o Is the chimney leaning above the roof line?
o Are the bricks near the top of the chimney deteriorated?
o Is the chimney free of obstructions and soot build-up?
o Is the mortar crumbling or are there loose or
missing bricks?
o Is the flashing rusted or pulling away from the roof This chimney has been neglected for many
and chimney? years. A mason will have to rebuild the
chimney with new bricks because of the
degree of deterioration.
Flashing
Flashing protect your roof’s most vulnerable points from water penetration. It is used as a
sealant around roof and plumbing vents, chimneys, and anywhere water can seep through
open joints into the roof sheathing. Also vulnerable are surfaces where water runoff can be
heavy, such as roof valleys and eaves. Flashing is key to keeping your roof watertight.
Maintenance Tips:
• Call a professional to install new flashing; usually when the roof is being replaced is the best.
• Check yearly for gaps, cracks or missing flashing, around any change in plane of the roof or
protrusions in the roof.
• Chimney flashing should be installed into the mortar joint.
• Do not depend upon caulks, sealants or “goop” to do what metal flashing can do better.
Ice dam
Ice damming occurs when melting snow freezes and accumulates at the overhang of a
building, preventing water from draining off the roof. When this happens, the accumulated
water can flow back under the shingles and into the interior space below. This occurrence is
often a shared failure of the eavestroughs and the attic insulation. Attic spaces that are poorly
insulated and/or poorly ventilated are unable to prevent the warmth of the interior from rising to
the exterior surface. This allows the accumulated water on the roof to stay fluid and enter under
the shingles.
The basic fix for ice damming is to seal all attic leaks and insulate thoroughly. Some attics
don’t have space for proper ventilation at the edge of the attic floor. Attempt to put the best
insulation possible at the edge to reduce heat loss. Consider blown foam insulation, which seals
and insulates.
The gutter has fallen off, onto a power line. This is now more than A good paint job would improve the architectural detail, and overall
a maintenance issue, but a fire hazard. image of this site.
Inspecting Downspouts
o Ensure all outlets from the gutters have downspouts to direct the water to extensions or
splashbacks.
o Check downspouts for water flow and leaks.
o Auger any blockage from the outlet.
o Check all joints in the downspouts,
ensuring no breaks.
o Check hanging brackets of downspouts,
ensuring they are tight.
o Make sure that no tree limbs are within striking
distance of the downspouts.
o Ensure laterally hung downspouts have
sufficient pitch, without sags.
o Splashbacks, or extensions should be installed
to direct water at least one metre away from
the foundation.
o Ensure that the splashbacks have not settled,
allowing water to run back to the building.
o Ensure the slope of the ground around the
downspout runs away from the foundation.
Sump Pumps
When a back-up valve has been activated, and the weeping tile is congested with water, the
basement may experience flooding due to seepage from the tile. The weeping tile water is
drained via the sewer line. However, when the sewer line is closed by the back-up valve, the
water can seep into the basement. This is the primary reason for installing a sump pump in
your building’s basement.
A sump pump is installed in a sump hole, which collects any water that is building up in the
weeping tile and is unable to be channeled through the sewer line. The sump pump then moves
the water from this pit out of the basement, through the foundation, to a low lying area or swale
that moves the water away from the building.
Windows
Windows in historic buildings are typically constructed with wooden frameworks (main frame,
mullions and muntins). As such, they require periodic sealing and painting and if applicable,
puttying and even reglazing.
Like other building components, a window’s primary enemy is water. Everything should be done
to limit its deleterious effects:
• Window sills should be examined frequently for signs of softness or rot.
• In those buildings where wooden window frames meet a masonry wall, that connection
should be examined. If there are openings that have developed, caulking should be applied
between wood and masonry.
• Windows can become misaligned when a building shifts on its foundation. Check where
they have sagged, shifted or settled, or where hardware is out of line, allowing openings for
rain and air, even animals and insects.
• Examine the elements of the window frame, looking for signs of rot (softness) and for places
where paint or lacquer has blistered, cracked or has worn off. Because paint is a protective
covering, every effort should be made to ensure that affected areas are repainted as soon
as possible. Where it is necessary to repaint, use a wood preservative and good primer
coat prior to painting.
• Watch for cracks and holes in
window panes -- water seeping in
will rot the sills.
• Windows sweat -- where possible,
decrease interior humidity and
improve weather stripping.
• If the building has storm
windows, ensure that channels
or holes are drilled at sill to allow
driven rain to drain out.
• Do not caulk storms across the sill.
Water sitting on the sill has caused the paint to flake and the wood to
deteriorate. The window sash and frame will have to be repaired with
epoxy, or replaced depending on the severity of the rot.
Minor Roofs
Many buildings feature small protective roofs over their entrances which can be subject to the
same kind of problems associated with porches:
• Is the roof detached from main building?
• Is there water penetration visible under the roof?
Also look for evidence of insect or animal habitation under the roof.
If there are decorative brackets or other woodwork present, are these intact (painted, dry, etc.)?
Other Details
Any other details on a building (ex: window boxes) should be examined for water penetration
and for secure connections.
Air sealing
• Comprehensive air sealing is one of the least obvious and most effective retrofit projects for
older buildings.
Heating system
• A total tune-up of the heating system is another inexpensive, effective and invisible
measure for older buildings.
• Sealing your chimney if it is not used, can be an effective way to eliminate drafts.
Insulation
• Preserving the structure is especially important. Provide a vapour barrier and air barrier when
insulating. Basements and attics can often be reinsulated without affecting the appearance
or historic character of the building. Where it is desirable to preserve both the interior and
exterior wall finishes, blowing insulation into the cavity of a wood-frame wall is an option.
Weatherstripping
• Weatherstripping prevents air from leaking through gaps around doors and the moving
parts of an operable window.
• Weatherstripping should be easy to replace. To be effective, it must seal gaps completely.
• Weatherstripping should be flexible and spring back to its original shape. It should allow
you to open and close windows and doors easily.
Windows
• Windows are one of the most important aspects of a building’s historic character. Careful
weatherstripping of older, single-pane, wood-frame windows will do much to improve their
energy efficiency. If the original wood storm windows are not salvageable, it’s possible to
have custom wood storms made to order. If the object is to preserve the appearance of the
building, avoid metal storms or storm-and-screen combinations.
• Interior storms are also a good alternative. These are less noticeable than exterior metal
storms, and they can be made to fit on the sash or the window trim. If the window sash is
badly deteriorated, replacement units can be made to fit the existing frame.
• A traditional single-glazed, double-hung window has an R-value of 1, compared to R3 for
a new double-glazed, low-e, double-hung window. If the historic wall assembly has an R-
value in the teens, taking a window from R1 to R3 will not provide sufficient energy savings
to offset the cost of replacement windows and associated waste. The primary cause of
infiltration can be addressed with jamb insulation, weatherstripping, and trim repair.
32
Doors
• Preserving the original doors is important to the overall appearance of an older building.
Careful weatherstripping will improve their performance. As with windows, avoid
aluminum storms.
• Weatherstripping can be applied to the tops and sides of any door frame.
• V-shaped weatherstripping creates an excellent seal by making contact with the edge of the
door. It maintains a good seal even if the door warps.
• At the bottom of the door, apply weatherstripping to either the sill or the door itself.
• When weatherstripping your door, use a durable material that can withstand traffic but is
flexible enough to adapt to changes caused by humidity and temperature.
For more information, see:
• National Parks Service’s Preservation Brief 3: Conserving Energy in Historic Buildings
www.nps.gov/history/hps/tps/briefs/brief03.htm
• Natural Resources Canada
oee.nrcan.gc.ca/residential/persona/new-home-improvment/heritage.cfm?attr=4
• Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada (energy
efficiency section)
www.pc.gc.ca/docs/pc/guide/nldclpc-shchpc/index_e.asp
PART 5. WORKSHEETS 35
36
INSPECTION CHECKLIST
Date__________ Inspector____________________ Weather Conditions____________________
ROOF
37
38
Are vents and other openings caulked and secure, without cracks
or holes?
o shingles
o cornerboards
o stucco
o clapboard
o paint
For wood-sheathed walls, is wood trim dry and solid to the touch?
Are the walls water stained?
39
40
Are there any creepers, ivy or overgrowth directly on the walls (ex:
not on trellises)?
o concrete
o masonry
41
42
Is the ground properly sloped away from building? Does water
collect excessively in any areas?
Are there gaps between the porch wall and the main building?
WINDOWS
43
44
Are there any cracks or holes in any panes?
Is the putty around the panes of glass firm and painted? Do the
glass panes fit securely?
45
46
SPRING MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST
Date__________ Inspector____________________ Weather Conditions____________________
Inspect exterior walls and roof and flashing for winter and
seasonal storm damage.
Check the foundation walls for cracks. Caulk and patch all
exterior cracks and openings.
Clean lint from dryer duct and from the interior of dryer
housing.
47
48
SUMMER MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST
Date__________ Inspector____________________ Weather Conditions____________________
DESCRIPTION:
o DIY
o HIRE PRO
DIMENSIONS
1 $ $ $
2 $ $ $
3 $ $ $
4 $ $ $
5 $ $ $
6 $ $ $
7 $ $ $
8 $ $ $
9 $ $ $
10 $ $ $
5.5 BUDGET 57
CONTACTS
NAME PHONE NUMBER NOTES
58 5.5 BUDGET
FREQUENTLY CALLED NUMBERS
CONTACT SPECIALTY NOTES
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
COMPANY:
NAME:
PHONE:
MAINTENANCE: TOOLS
Here are a few maintenance tips that will make your tools last longer.
• Keep your tool box away from humidity (in a cupboard instead of a basement).
• Keep your tools clean and functional by oiling and sharpening them when necessary.
• Always keep the blades of your cutting tools, such as saws, in a protective guard.
The Standards
Following are the 14 standards from the Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of
Historic Places in Canada. They are intended as general guidelines only.
These are explained more fully in the full document, available online at www.historicplaces.ca.
Hard copies are available upon request from the Historic Resources Branch at 945-2118 in
Winnipeg or toll free: 1-800-282-8069, extension 2118.
1. Conserve the heritage value of a historic place. Do not remove, replace, or substantially alter
its intact or repairable character-defining elements. Do not move a part of a historic place if
its current location is a character-defining element.
2. Conserve changes to a historic place which, over time, have become character-defining
elements in their own right.
3. Conserve heritage value by adopting an approach calling for minimal intervention.
4. Recognize each historic place as a physical record of its time, place and use. Do not create a
false sense of historical development by adding elements from other historic places or other
properties or by combining features of the same property that never coexisted.
5. Find a use for a historic place that requires minimal or no change to its character-defining
elements.
6. Protect and, if necessary, stabilize a historic place until any subsequent intervention is
done. Protect and preserve archaeological resources in place. Where there is potential for
disturbance of archaeological resources, take mitigation measures to limit damage and
loss of information.
7. Evaluate the existing condition of character-defining elements to determine the appropriate
intervention needed. Use the gentlest means possible for any intervention. Respect heritage
value when undertaking an intervention.
8. Maintain character-defining elements on an ongoing basis. Repair character-defining
elements by reinforcing their materials using recognized conservation methods. Replace
in-kind any extensively deteriorated or missing parts of character-defining elements, where
there are surviving prototypes.
9. Make any intervention needed to preserve character-defining elements physically and
visually compatible with the historic place, and identifiable upon close inspection. Document
any intervention for future reference.
Protecting and maintaining exterior wood Failing to identify, evaluate and treat the causes
elements by preventing water penetration and of exterior wood deterioration, including faulty
by maintaining proper drainage so that water or flashing, leaking gutters, cracks and holes
organic matter is not allowed to stand on flat, in siding, deteriorated caulking in joints and
horizontal surfaces or accumulate in decorative seams, plant material growing too close to wood
features. surfaces, or insect or fungus infestation.
Removing paint that is firmly adhering to and
thus protecting exterior wood surfaces.
EXTERIOR WOOD
Inspecting painted exterior wood surfaces to Stripping paint or other coatings to reveal bare
determine whether repainting is necessary or if wood, thus exposing historically coated surfaces
cleaning is all that is required. to the effects of accelerated weathering.
Retaining coatings such as paint that help Using destructive paint removal methods such
protect the exterior wood from moisture as propane or butane torches, sandblasting
and ultraviolet light. Paint removal should or water–blasting. These methods can
be considered only where there is paint irreversibly damage exterior woodwork or cause
surface deterioration and as part of an overall catastrophic fires.
maintenance program that involves repainting or
applying other protective coatings in kind.
Protecting and maintaining masonry by preventing Failing to evaluate and treat the various causes
water penetration and by maintaining proper of mortar joint deterioration such as leaking
drainage so that water or organic matter does not roofs or gutters, differential settlement of the
stand on flat, horizontal surfaces or accumulate in building, capillary action, failed flashings or
curved decorative features. extreme weather exposure.
methods and only when necessary to halt moisture penetration when the problem
deterioration or remove heavy soiling or graffiti. could be solved by repairing failed flashings,
deteriorated mortar joints or other mechanical
defects.
ARCHITECTURAL METALS
from corrosion by preventing water penetration of corrosion such as moisture from leaking roofs
and by maintaining proper drainage so that or gutters.
water or organic matter does not stand on flat,
horizontal surfaces or accumulate in curved, Placing incompatible metals together without
decorative features. providing a reliable separation material. Such
incompatibility can result in galvanic corrosion
of the less noble metal, e.g., copper will corrode
cast iron, steel, tin and aluminum.
Providing adequate anchorage for roofing Allowing roof fasteners such as nails and clips
material to guard against wind damage and to corrode so that roofing material is subject to
moisture penetration. accelerated deterioration.
Protecting and maintaining the wood and Failing to provide adequate protection of
architectural metals that comprise the window materials on a cyclical basis, which results in
frames, sashes, muntins and surrounds through deterioration of the window.
appropriate surface treatments such as cleaning,
rust removal, limited paint removal and re–
WINDOWS
Identifying the historic place’s heritage value Undertaking energy efficiency modifications
and character-defining elements (materials, before identifying the elements that define the
forms, location, spatial configurations, uses overall heritage value of the historic place.
and cultural associations or meanings) so that
energy efficiency modifications will not damage
or eliminate them.
ENERGY EFFICIENCY
Working with energy efficiency and conservation Making changes to historic places without first
specialists to determine the most appropriate exploring equivalent energy efficiency systems,
solution to energy conservation problems to methods or devices that may be less damaging
minimize the impact on character-defining to character-defining elements and heritage
elements and the overall heritage value. value.
Selecting a Contractor
Finding a qualified and reliable contractor can be difficult, especially in smaller communities.
Try some of the following suggestions to select the right person for the job:
o ask for recommendations from friends, relatives, co-workers, and at your local building
supply store
o consult professional organizations
o phone the Better Business Bureau for any records of complaints
o check the phone book
o talk to the Historic Resources Branch or your local Culture, Heritage, Tourism and Sport
Regional Office
If possible, try to get two to four contractors to bid on the work.
Cracks or gaps – exterior cladding • Review the Exterior Walls section of this manual.
Minor cracks or gaps may not be a • Regularly inspect the cracks to observe changes in length
problem if the siding continues to shed or width. Record changes, both written observations and
water. Similarly, hairline cracks in stucco with photos.
or the mortar between bricks or stones • Consult a structural engineer for assistance.
are common and not generally a cause
for concern. Larger cracks, or cracks
causing leaks, deserve attention.
Doors or windows jamming, rubbing or • Review the Windows and Doors section of this manual.
refusing to close
• Examine foundation for major shifting.
Changes in humidity can affect wooden
doors. Shifts in the foundation may
also cause doors or windows to be “out
of square.”
72 6.4 TROUBLESHOOTING
Roof leaks • Review Roofing section of this manual.
Many things can cause a roof to leak, • Inspect roof regularly with binoculars and record any changes.
including damage to roofing materials
or flashing, deterioration of caulking or • To prevent future leaks and solve current ones, check the
ice dams. slope of the roof make sure water is not pooling.
• Replace any missing shingles promptly.
6.4 TROUBLESHOOTING 73
74
6.5 RESOURCE LIST
This resource list in not intended to be exhaustive, and is only a list of some of the sources that
may be useful to the users of this manual. New sources are continually being developed, so
this list is only a starting point for developing your maintenance strategy.
Websites
National Parks Service, U.S. Department of the Interior. Preservation Briefs, 2007.
www.nps.gov/history/hps/tps/briefs/presbhom.htm
National Parks Service, U.S. Department of the Interior. Online Education, 2007.
www.nps.gov/history/hps/tps/online_ed.htm
Sears. Manage My Home, 2007. www.managemyhome.ca/index_b.asp
Old House Journal, 2007. www.oldhousejournal.com
This Old House, 2007. www.thisoldhouse.com
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation, 2007. www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca
Manitoba Historical Society. Online Forum, 2008. www.mhs.mb.ca/forum
Publications
Carey, James and Morris Carey. Home Maintenance for Dummies. For Dummies. New York, 2000.
Fram, Mark. Well-Preserved: The Ontario Heritage Foundation’s Manual of Principles and
Practice for Architectural Conservation. Stoddart Publishing Co. Limited, Toronto, 1992.
Leeke, John. Managing Maintenance for Older and Historic Buildings. Historic HomeWorks,
Portland, ME, 1996.
Leeke, John. Save Your Wood Windows. Historic HomeWorks, Portland, ME, 2000-2004.
London, Mark. Masonry: How to Care for Old and Historic Brick and Stone. The Preservation
Press, Washington, D.C., 1988.
Nash, George. Renovating Old Houses. Taunton Press, Newtown, CT, 1996.
Ramsey, Dan and the Fit-It Club. The Home Owner’s Manual. Quirk Books, Philadelphia, PA, 2006.
Weaver, Martin E. Conserving Building: A Manual of Techniques and Materials. John Wiley &
Sons, Inc., New York, 1997.
Parks Canada. Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada.
Her Majesty the Queen in Right of Canada, 2003.
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation. Home Care: A Guide to Repair and Maintenance.
CMHC, Canada, 2003.
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation, Homeowner’s Manual. CMHC, Canada, 2006.
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation, Homeowner’s Inspection Checklist. CMHC,
Canada, 2000.
Heritage Preservation and National Parks Service. Caring for Your Historic House. Harry N.
Abrams, Inc., New York, 1998.
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