S

“ U M “ “
I
W M !

F I FTY YEARS ’

RE M I N I S CENCES OF I NDIA
 FI FT Y Y E ARS
’

RE M I NI S C E NCE S O F I NDI A

El R e t rosp e c t of (t ra v e l , El b v e n t u re a nb

E b ik a r

C O LO N E L E O L LO K
M a d r a s S t aj C077 :
A U T H O R O F ‘S P O RT
’
I N B U R M AH , E TC .

I L L US TR A TE D

E D W AR D AR N O L D
fl u h l i s h c r t o t lt z 3 mm (9 3m:
LO N D O N NE W Y ORK

37 B E D FO R D S TRE ET 70 F I FT H AVEN U E
 P R E F ACE .

T HE only a p ology t h e au t hor h a s t o offe r fo r t h e

p ubl ica t io n of t h e se r e m i n i s c e nc e s i s t h e h o p e o f
am u si ng and i n st ruc t i ng t ho se who may b e t h i nk i ng
o f t aki ng t o sp or t i n e arn e s t .

T h e lov e of hu n t i ng i s s t rong e r i n E ngl i sh m e n

t han i n any o t h e r na t ion i n t h e world our co u s i n s i n,

A m e rica p e rhap s e xc e p t e d Ou r larg e p o sse ss ion s

.

giv e u s o p p or t un i t i e s wh ich a r e d e n i e d t o o t h e r p e o p l e ,

and a s T hack e ray w ro t e T h e j ungl e i s t h e ba t t l e

,
‘
,

fi e ld o f p lay h our s ; i t l e ad s st raigh t t o t h e R e d R i bbon

-

and t h e V i c t oria C ro ss S ubj e c t your young ho p e ful

.

t o t h e di s ci p l i n e o f t h e s addl e ; p u t h i m on p ony bac k -

al mo st a s s oo n a s h e can wal k ; do n o t ch e ck t h e i n
s t i n c t i v e l ongi ng s of boyhood aft e r t h e workman s h i
p
of P u r d e y and M an t on F or a s oldi e r t h e r e i s rough
.

wo rk b e for e h i m for wh i ch h e w ill n e e d a t ru e e y e

.

an d a s t e ady hand —a s t rong n e rv e n o t t o b e acqui r e d

i n t h e s chool roo m and t h e cramm ing s ho p D o n o t -
.

fre t your se l v e s i f you fi nd t ha t h e t ak e s mor e ki ndl y

t o t h e s t abl e and t h e rabbi t warr e n t han t o E ucl id and
-

E u t r op iu s
. Wh e n t h e s t ruggl e com e s a s com e som e ,

day i t w ill fo r d e ar l i fe wha t will avail hi m t ha t h e

, ,
 P RE FAC E

can d e mon st ra t e t h e P on s As i n o r u m o r r e coun t t h e

labou rs of H e rcul e s ? B u t t ha t t ru e e y e t ha t s t e ady
,

hand t ha t fi rm s e a t i n t h e s addl e wi t h all t h e cool

, ,

courag e of t h e hu n t i ng fi e l d t h e se a r e t h e aid s wh ich

-
,

will fi nd h i m o u t i n t h e hou r o f t rial and h e l p h i m t o

,

t h e fron t i n t h e grand I ndian car e e r

’

T h e abov e w a s wri t t e n of J am e s O u t ram t h e B ayard

,

of I ndia t han whom t h e r e w a s n o t a mo r e acco m pl i sh e d

,

sh i k a r i e s or t s man and l e gi sla t or t o b e found i n ou r

p, ,

annal s rich a s t h e y a r e wi t h t h e nam e s of d i st i ngui sh e d

,

men . T h e au t h or wh e n h e w e n t o u t t o I ndia had

, ,

t h e p rivil e g e of com ing acro s s s uch good sp or t s m e n a s

S hak e sp e ar N igh t i ngal e t h e O rr s an d many o t h e r s

, , , ,

and h a s r e cord e d s om e of h is r e m i n i s c e nc e s con n e c t e d

w i t h t h e m and of sp or t i n variou s p ar t s of t h e world
, ,

i n wh ich e i t h e r h e o r t ho se w e l l known t o h i m had a

p tar.
 CONTENTS .

C H A PT E R I .

E A R LY R ECO LL EC I O N S T .

A
S c ott i sh de sc e t —M y g e a t g a dfa t h e —S e t t l e s i W i l t h i e
P GE

n r -
r n r n s r

M y g a df t h e i s di si h e i t e d a d e n t s t h e e v i c e o f t h e
E st I di a C o m p a y—
r n a r n r ,
n er s r

a n M y fa t h e r e m b k i
n th e K t ar s n en

t h e B a y o f B i sc y—
,

wh ic h i bu s t i rn n H e i s g i w e ke d a a a n r c

di a —I s a p po i t e d t o
,

a d fi a lly a ft e
n n t w o ye a
, reac h es I rs, r n n

a n i e g l e g i m e t i n t h e N i m s c o t i ge t M y c h i ld
rr u ar r n za
’
n n n

h ood a d e l y e c oll e c t i o s—M y i i t i t i o i w i l d po t s

n ar r n n a n n s r

L ov e o f t h e se p oys of t h a t d a y fo t h e i o ffi c e s—Wh t r r r a

l e d t o th e M ti y of 8 5 7 — T h e old offi c e s c om p a e d wi t h
t h e n e w—
u n 1 r r

D a ge s o f t a e ll i g i I di a f om 8 3 t o 8 4
n r r v n n n r 1 0 1 0

—O u de t a c h m e t a t t a c ke d b y R oh il l a s—At a t t e m pt a t
r n

d c o i t y—R e s l t o f k i c k i g o e r a n idol —A t ige c h a se i

a u n v r n

th e C e s o f E ll o —A h a ppy c h i ldh ood—D e a t h of o

—
av ra ur

p a e r t sn S e t t o M n
a d a s t o e m b a k f o Er gl a d — Co r r n n n

si g e d t o a
n o ffi c e no f t h e V e te a rB a t t a l i o —O u t e a t r n n r r

m e t by h i m — O r oy ge h o m e —C a p e g i l s —
n C a pe h o e rs s

—A i e i E gl a d —Am se t t o s h ool —A m e a g a di a
u v a r

rr v n n n n c n u r n

— S c h o ol l i fe —A C h i n e se sc h ool m t e —G e t om i a ti o a a n n n

W o ol wi c h —O u c a m m e —
-

f or T h e t wo G o do s C h i e se
r r r r n n

a n d Ad m L i d a y—L o se m y
,

a n s om i a t i o fo W ool wi c h n n n r

Am o ffe e d a pp o i t m e t s t o S dh u st
r n d Add i sc om b e
n an r an

C h oose t h e l a t t e —D e a t h of m y g a n dfa t h e —G e t a di e c t
r r r r

c a d e t sh i p —E m b a k fo I n di a r r
—4 r 2

C HAPT ER I I .

CA D E T D AY s

i
S a l fr o m S ou t h a m pt o n —E gyp t a d t h e de se rt —Di sa st r o u s n e ws

di a — Ade —Ad e t e s o sh o e —T h e
n

fr o m I n n v n ur n r p re t t i e st
v iii C ON T E N T S
AG E
b oa d—H e sa d fa t e —M a d a s—O m e ssm a t e s
P

g irl on r r

H o se s p u h a se d —
r ur

r T h e V e t e r a n offi c e r a t t e m p t s e x t o t i o
rc r n
—S a d c c ide t —T wo of s t i e d fo o l i e s a d
a c q i t t e d—
a n u r r ur v n

M y fi rst e x p e i e n c e o f B n ga l o e —A ru a wa y
h o se a n d a s m a sh —
u r a r n

r A swe a i g G e e a l —P e m e t ly r n n r r an n

p o st e d— O de e d t o S e c u de a ba d G e e o u s b e h a i o
r r n

b r t h e r offi c e s—Ou C om m n d n t —H o sp i t a bly

r -
n r v ur

of o ur o r r a a

e n te ta i e d
r t n K u o ol —A e c c e t ic o ffic e a d hi
—
a rn n n r r n s

p r a k n
s S e u n d e a b a d — A bc o yi sh l oo k
r i g A dj u t a t —
5 4
-
n n 2 2

CHAPTE R I I I .

S E C U N D E R A B AD .

Se c u n de a ba d i n 8 4 9 N igh t i n ga l e M st e ot figh t f i
A o b st e p e ou s C a p t a i —
r 1 -
a r n a r

n r H ow t o m a ge
r ati e s S d n an n v -
a

de a t h o f a Adj u t a t —M ol e Al l ey a c e —Am u se m e t s
n n r s n

G a m b l i g —R e g i m e t o d e e d t o S m u l c ot t h —M y st u d
n n r r a a

Am a pp oi t e d t o t h e sa pp e s a n d m i n e s —
n D iffi c u l t y o f r r

ge t t i g t o B u m a —R a goo —E m p l oye d o fi e l d se i e
—
n r n n n -
rv c

M i a c u l ou s e sc a pe o f t wo d u n k e g n n e s
r 43 6 r n u r 2

C H A PT E R IV .

B URM A F O R TY Y EA RS AG O .

Ran goo i 8 5 3 —V oya ge u p t h e I w d i e —P o m e —F a m i n e

n n 1 r ra a r

—S a d sigh t s—D e a t h of M ddiga d L a t t e —C u e l ty o f a n an r r

B u m e se C o st u c t a st o k de — O ffic e s ga ll a t a d
r n r c a r n n

o t h e wi se — C a p e t k n igh t s o e v i c e —B m e se t a c t i c s
,

g l a C a l y—D a c o i t s—A gi l o t a ge d a n d
r r n s r ur

R a m gh u I r u r

m u de e d—
r rre u r av r

r L o d D a l h o si e —G l l
r t y o f E g i n e e offi e s
r u a an r n r c r

L oot — B e g l t oop c om p e d w i t h t h ose of M a d a s r

—R e d—
-
n a r s ar

t a pe i M d — T h e S pp — Am t a sfe e d t o
de p a tm e t —A b o x i g m a t c h —A B i t i sh
s a n e s a ra r r n rr

th e E gi e e n n r r n n -
r

so ldi e h a g e d—At t e m p t s t o p o e l yt ize se p oys— I j di c i o s

—
r n r s n u u

fi
of c e rs 6 3 9 1
 C ON T E N T S k

CHAPTER V .

BU R M E S E L I FE .

B u m e se —
P AG E
Fa i l u re of m i ssi o nar e s T h e i r su c c e ss
i a m on g th e r

a m o g t h e Ka e
n —M a t i m o y i B m a —R e l a t i on of t h e
se e s— O i g i o f t h e B u m e se —
r ns r n n ur

x r T h e i r f e e dom f om c a ste
n r r r

T h e i m a e s c u st om s a d h c t e i st i c s—A om p i
m e se fo d e ss fo c h i l d e —
r nn r n c a ra r r n

t h e i e —B
, ,

T h e i c ou rt sh i p
—Th e i p i e t s—R om C a th ol i c s—T h e B u ddh i st r e
r v r ur n n r r n r

r r s an n un

l ig i on —K a e s—B m e se t h e t i c a l s
r n d d c i g gi l s
ur a r an an n r

T h e Assa m e se H a l f b e e ds Th e Ka c h e s Fi r e s i -
r n n

B u m a —An a ff y —A sol d i e p i h e d fo doi g h i s d ty

—S i A P h y e D i m a l J e m m y —
r ra r un s r n u

r a H i s t e t m e n t of m e
r s r a

—A ga l la t B ig di e — O e o f a oth e k i d—An e c dot e s

.

n r a r n n r n

H ow t h e t wo B i ga di e s l e ft T o g o —O u c h i f e g i e e
R og u e y o f su b o di a t e s—P u bl i c wo k s—
r r n r e n n r

r Ab a d o m e n t o f
r n r n n

N a m ya n Si T r e v or W h e l e a t o i sh e s a B u r m a n

G a l l a t ry of t h e S we e p — —
r r s n

n A m a d doc t o 9 r 2 1 2 5

C HA PT E R V I .

P I G S T I CK I N G
-
.

Th e fi r st sp o r t d —M y fi st h u t —H t i g ov e r a
i n t h e wo r l
t y—
r n un n n

e c l ose d c o E x t a o di a y sp e e d a d e d a c e o f
H o w t o i d e a p i g—C h a se d—
n un r r n r n n ur n

w i l d b oa r —
r

A fa l l —T h i ty
t e f o m st a t t o fi i sh —A o t h e c h a se —
-
r r

fi e mi S t u ggl e
fo fi t sp e a —N o t a l wa ys t o t h e f t e st —
v nu s r r n n r r

A figh t i g b o
—N a ow e s a pe o f a h o se —P a t i c u l s o f m y fi st h u n t
r rs r as n ar

M y c o m a de fa l l s i t o a d l a Z— K i l l t h e b oa r —
rr c r r ar r

A hu nt
’

G u t oo —A g o od t h st —
r n zz -
u

H ow t o m e e t a c h a g i g
6 —4
n ea r n

boa —S p e i g de d iffi c l t i e s—A h o se k i ll e d

r n r ru

r ar n un r u r 12 1 1

C H A P T ER VI I .

EL EP HA N TS .

T wo i i dia n e l e p h a t s—H ow t o k i l l t h e m —G a m e i n
i fle s —B u m e se
v a r e t e s of I n n

t h e P om e di st i c t r P u c h se o f t wo r r

s—M o q u i t oe s —
r -
r a

sh ik a i e s—T h e i di sl i k e o f E H ow
t o c i c u m v e t t h e m —M y fi st e l p h a n t h u t —
r op e r ur an s

r n Tre e l e e c h e s r e n -
 C ON T E N T S
AG E
dyi g o u t —B g m y fi t e l e ph t —A sa d
P

N ti a v e c oo ke ry n a rs an

di sa pp i t m e t —D O yl y n d M o g G o g G ye s st a t e
o n n
’

a un un
’

l h t — G ll a t y o f o g s o w a —
n rH b i t of e l e p h a n t s un r

—A e c dot e —E l e ph a t s d o t b e e d i c a pt i i t y
e ep an y a a a s

n s n n o r n v

D i ffi c l t y o f fi di g a g ood h i k n e l e p h a n t —M h o u t s
n s ar a

—T h e i d t i e s D e a t h o f W e dde b —N e c e ssi ty o f
u

u rn

t s fo sh oo t i g t i g e s—T h e i f i t e —B t t e y fo
r u r

e l e ph an r n r r u rn ur a r r

sp o t — H o w t o m a n a ge e l e p h n t s—A p i t c h e d b a t t l e
r 4
— 8 a 1 2 1 2

C H A P T ER VI I I .

B U FF AL O E S .

W i ld b ff l oe
u a s m or e ige s—Ve y di f c l t t o k i ll
d ge an r ou s th a n t r r fi u

—P l e t i f l i B m a a d A sa m —H ow wi l d b l l s a pp o
u n n u

—
n ur s r

p i
r a t e h e d s— D O l
yy r a d h i p o y t o
’
sse d A h ie Ca m pn s n rc

b e ll e l e p h t o e t h ow —H i s c i t i l p osi t i o —I a m
’
s an v r r n r ca n

ca lle d to h i e e —A s a ge
s r
e co sc ut e —A wa y av n un r ru n a

e l e ph t —M e e t a t i ge —E c
an te w i t h a b ll w h i h n u c

figh t s de sp e t e ly —A p g c i o s h e d—C h ge d by a
r ou n r

ra u na u r ar

c o pl e o f b u l l s
u 8 3— 9 1 1 2

C H A PT E R IX .

I ND I AN R H I N O C ER O S .

E ide a s a s t o t h e i m p e e t b i l i ty o f h i oc e o h i d e
r r on e o u s n ra a r n r s
’

—G e e a l ly h a m l e ss b u t d ge o s wh e wou de d
n r r an r u n n

H e d wi t h e l e p h a t a d b ff l o—M e e t t h e m fi st i n
,

r n n u a r

B u m a t h e i A a m —E l e ph t s i di p e sa b l e —D iffi
c l t y of ob t i i g t h e m —
r ,
n n ss an n s n

u M y fi st I di
a n n h i oc e os r n an r n r

M k e a sa d m e ss o f o t h e s—R h i o
a o h o ot i g i c ol d r n cer s- s n n

w e t h e —S i ze o f h o —Th e i a l e — A ge c h a g e r

—
a r rn s r v u sa v a

J u st i t i m e — C h a ge d b y t w o h i oc e ose s
n r 93 99 r n r 1 1

C H A P T ER X .

S P O RT I N THE N O R T H ER N D I S T R I C T S ,
M A D R AS P R E S I D EN C Y .

Di sc o v e ry of t h e B i so n H i ll —The ds i sl a n of t h e G od a v er y
Ab u n da n c e of fe a t h e r e d ga m e —Li g n a R e dd i e , t h e fr e e
 CO N TE N TS xi
AG E
b oot e —A st i ff c l i m b —L o e ly sc e e y—Ab u da c e o f
P

r v n r n n

g a m e —D e a y l i fe t a si gl e st a t i o —T a t p ood i—C os i
r r a n n a s

p oo m — A
rasc e d t h e g h a t —C h a g e of fl o a a d c l i m a t e
n u s n r n
—Ga l ic o d a h — H e a y i —G o a ft e ga r— G o t o a di st t
n v ra n r u an

j u gl e —Di sg a c e f l sh oo t i g—I di a a d B m e e g u
n

c o m p a e d—
r u n n n n ur s a r

K i ll t i ge
r a — r z oo 2 1 7

C H APTE R XI .

SPORT IN T HE HI LL Y I
D ST R CT S , I
N O R TH E R N C I R CAS, M AD R A S
P RE S I D EN C Y .

S t a r t for D a r a c o n d a j i c k s— —B
Sc e e t ri n a ri e h u n t e r s—S a l t l -
n a

d yl igh t—Va i e ty a d a b d c e of g m e —B e a sh oot i g un an a r-

—A h t i g c h i t a —P o c p i n e —Fi i g t h e g a s—O t h
a r n n

un n r u s r n r s n e

t a b l e l a d—T i ge —
b e a s d de e B ff l oe s a d swa m p
de e —F o t ige s—A m i x e d b a g n C h i st m a s D y
-
n r s, r ,
an r u a n

C a m p i t h e fo e st —T we ty o e d ys sp o t—R e t
r ur r o r a
’
n rto n -
n a r u rn

t h e c oa st 8 — 47 2 1 2

C HA P T E R XI I .

M AN - E ATE R S AN D B U F F A LOES .

Co to E n st a r —H ow to l i ve we l l i n t h e j u gl e s—B e n ga l
n h u m ps
—M y sh ik ie s—T oddy— E c pe o f t h e m a e t e —N i e n- a

—
s a r n

—
ar

p p l e k i ll e d M o c m p
— S n d g o e M i e i e s of
ve a a r us s r

igh t wa t c h i g —S h oot t ige —A o t h e b e t —A wo m a

e o -

n a r n r a n

k i ll e d—T h e m a e t e k i ll e d by b ff l oe s—S p ot t e d de e r
n -

n -
a r u a

A pa t e h n — B s — F i
r l t o b g o e
earo t f e i g h t — J gl e a a n u o un

fo wl —D m m p e — Ab d o t — S h a e p o i e s— A h t
—T e k fo e st s—M a h e e
u a an n c ar s r n un

w i t h d og s de sc i b e d—A t i g r r e ss a r s r

fi h i g i t h e G od e y—S i o c h —L ge g m e i n E n st a
s n n av r r n a ar a r

— V i i ou s c h a g o f b ff l oe —S h ot s t a a m b a d t ige
—E c o t e b e t we e b u ff l o d t ige —Sa l t li c k s—A m a d
c r e u a s a s ur n r

n un r n a an r -

g au r c on e rt e d i t o b e e f
v — S e d fo c m n
—
p T wo b e a s w i t h n r a r

so e h e d —B i j a i d og —F o h o ed t e l op e —C a m p
a t la t—
r a s r n r s u r- rn an

s C e o f de l ay—A b ll oc k k i ll e d—I m t osse d

aus u a

C a i e d t o t h e oa st
rr c 4 8 — 3 2 03
 C ON T E N T S

C H APTE R XI I I .

A DVI C E TO S PORTSM E N G O I NG AB ROA D .

AGE
ge s of m e di c a l k owl e dge —N a t i v e ide a of E u op e a s
P

Adv a n ta n

P e c a t i o s g i t t h e su —W h t t o we a —
r n

U de c l o t h e s
—C l o th e s—B oot s—S oc k s e t c —S h oe s fo st a l k i g—W a t e
r u n a a ns n a r n r

—
r n r

— —
.
,

f S l i g t h g d F T t l e c ot s

ta i n s—
e o e o e

A l i st of a t i c l e s t o t a k e —T e t s
p oro s e p n n r une e s v r r -

M osq i t o
'

N a t i e s—M e a n d wo m e —T e e — leec h e —
u -
cur r n

Wh a t t o w e
—
v n n r s ar

k
to e ep t h m t B i g a g
— S ll i g
un i t g i — G
a d e n b u ll e t —
e o u y u n e a a n n un

w d — T h B e t b u ll e t s fo di ffe e t g a m e
s s

W h a t size sh o t t o h o ose —H ow t o k e e p yo r h e a l t h
p o e r o r r r n

To t l b st i n e c e —S t i m u l a t s —N igh t sh oot i g —H ow t o
c u

—
a a n -
n

ma ek t h f i g h t i i b l e — H o w t o o b t i fi H ow t o
—
e o e sr s v e a n r

m a k e soa p —S a i t a y p e c a u t i o s a n d c l e a li e ss
n r r n
3 4 3 n n 0 20

A PP E N D I X .

S I M P LE REC I PES FO R US E I N T R A V E LL I N G 32 1
—34 1
 RE M IN I SCE N C E S OF INDIA
1 6 34 . He l d i n E ngland abou t 1 76 0 and marri e d
se tt e ,

t h e daugh t e r and s ol e h e i r e ss of t h e t h e n Po s t ma st e r

G e n e ral p urcha se d a l iv ing i n W il t sh ir e and r e s id e d

, ,

at a
p lac e call e d G i rdl e s t on e H all H e had a family
.

of t w o s o n s and se v e n daugh t e r s T h e e ld e st lad .

e n t e r e d a s a co m e t i n t h e S co t s G r e y s ro s e t o b e a ,

M aj or i n t ha t di s t i ngu i sh e d corp s and di e d u nmarri e d ,

of wound s r e c e i v e d a t t h e B a t t l e of Wa t e rloo .

T h e se cond s o n T o m w a s e duca t e d a t W i nch e st e r

, ,

and O xford and i t w a s i n t e nd e d t ha t h e sh ould t ak e

,

H oly O rd e rs and s ucc e e d h i s fa t h e r i n t h e l ivi ng

, ,

wh ich w a s wor t h s om e £ 1 5 0 0 a y e ar ; b u t p rior t o ,

ordi na t ion a s w a s t h e cu st om i n t h o s e d ay s h e mad e

, ,

t h e G rand T our r e s id e d for t w o y e ar s i n G e rmany

, ,

l e arn e d s e v e ral language s b e cam e a p rofic i e n t i n ,

mu s ic and imbi b e d la t i t udi narian id e a s ; on r e t urn i ng

,

hom e h e r e fu se d t o e n t e r t h e C hu rch l e ft h i s hom e ,

d i s inh e ri t e d aft e r a s t ormy i n t e rvi e w wi t h h i s fa t h e r

, ,

a n d n e v e r s a w h i m agai n .

H e w a s j u st t w e n t y t w o s t ood s i x fe e t i n h i s s ock s
-
, ,

had r e c e i v e d a fi r s t ra t e e duca t ion and w a s w e ll con

-
,

n e c t e d s o wh e n h e r e s e n t e d h i m s e l f b e fo r e t h e C hai r
, p
man o f t h e C our t of D i r e c t or s of t h e H o nou rabl e t h e
E a st I ndia C om p any and offe r e d h i m se l f a s a volun t e e r
,

for se rv ic e i n I ndia h e w a s a t onc e acc e p t e d and j o i n e d

, ,

t h e C ad e t s C om p an y i n M adra s i n 1 79 0 H e sa w
’
.

much ac t iv e se rvic e i n t ho se t roubl e s om e t i m e s w a s a t ,

t h e t aking of S e ringa p a t am s e rv e d und e r W e ll i ng t on ,

a t A ss ay e accom p an i e d t h e gal lan t G ill e sp i e t o t h e

,

r e l i e f of V e llor e a n d had ri s e n t o t h e rank of a fi e ld

,

o ffi c e r wh e n t h e O ffi c e r s mu t i ny brok e o u t H i s
’

s u e rior e duca t io n
p ( for offi c e r s i n t h e E a s t i n t ho s e
 MY G R A N D F A TH E R
d ay s w e r e n o t n o t e d for t h e i r a t t ai n m e n t s) a n d com
mandi ng p o s i t ion l e d t o h i s b e i ng o n e of t h e ring
l e ad e r s and o n e d a y h e and s om e doz e n o t h e r offic e r s
,

w e r e s u mmarily di s m i s se d t h e se rv ic e Th e y a pp e al e d .

’
t o Parl iam e n t and aft e r t hr e e y e ar s s t ruggl e h e and
,

s e v e ral o t h e r s w e r e r e i n s t a t e d .

I n t h e M ah ra t t a and P i ndari c war o f 1 8 1 6 1 8 h e -

,

com mand e d a brigad e u nd e r h i s ol d fri e nd D ov e t on ,

and h e h i s l e ad e r and a fe w o t h e r offi c e r s w e r e cr e a t e d

,

C B s i n 1 8 2 3 b e i ng amo ng t h e fir st of t h e C om p any s
’ ’
. .
,

offic e r s t o r e c e iv e a d e cora t ion from t h e i r S ov e r e ign .

H e marri e d a lady wh o w a s r e la t e d t o ou r gr e a t
nat ional h e ro L ord N e l so n and by h e r h e had t w o
, ,

s on s and o n e daugh t e r T h e e ld e r so n di e d of chol e ra

.

s oo n aft e r j o in i ng h i s r e gi m e n t i n I ndia M y fa t h e r .
,

t h e s e cond s o n h e ld for a s h or t wh il e a com m i ss ion

,

i n t h e A u s t rian A rmy b u t a t h i s fa t h e r s urg e n t r e qu e s t

’

h e r e s ign e d i t for a cad e t sh i p i n t h e E a s t .

H e e mbark e d i n t h e E a st I ndiaman K e n i wh ich ,

w a s burn e d i n t h e B ay of B i s cay T h e d ir e c t or s
.

gav e h i m a fr e sh ou t fi t and a fr e e p a ssag e i n o n e

of t h e i r v e sse l s b u t ill l uck agai n a t t e nd e d h im a s t h e
,
-
,

d a y b e for e t h e fl e e t w a s t o s ail a t e rri fic s t orm wr e ck e d

n e arl y e v e ry v e sse l i n Plym ou t h S ound and t h e cad e t ,

lo st agai n e v e ry t h i ng b u t h i s l i fe H i s ma s t e r s agai n
.

p rov id e d h i m wi t h a new k i t and t h i,

s t i me t h e r e ,

b e ing luck i n odd nu mb e r s h e arriv e d i n M adra s i n

,

t h e Un da zm t e a C a p t ai n C o ffi n command e r i n 1 8 2 7
’
, , ,

j u st t w o y e ar s aft e r h i s fi r s t a t t e m p t t o l e av e old
E ngland .

Th rough t h e i n t e r e st of my grand fa t h e r who w a s ,

t h e n commandi ng t h e H yd e rabad S ub s idiary F orc e ,

 RE M IN I SCE N CES OF I N D I A
my fa t h e r aft e r p a ss ing i n t h e na t iv e languag e s which
, ,

h e had n e v e r qu i t e forgo t t e n w a s a p p oi n t e d A dj u t an t o f
,

an i rr e gular cor p s H e marri e d e arly an d of h i s t h r e e

.
,

ch ildr e n I am t h e o nly so n and s e con d ch ild H ow .

di s t i nc t l y I r e m e mb e r my ch ildhood ! Pay w a s good

and l iv i ng ch e ap i n t ho se day s ; my fa t h e r had al s o
i nh e ri t e d s om e co n s id e rabl e p ro p e r t y from o n e o f h i s
au n t s H i s o nly s i s t e r had marri e d t h e l e adi ng m e r
.

chan t i n M ad e i ra and u se d t o s e nd h i m o u t a bu t t o r
,

t w o of mad e i ra and mal m se y w i n e s e v e ry y e ar and ,

h e and h i s bro t h e r offi c e rs k e p t o p e n hou se and l i v e d

l u xuri ou sly .

W e had a larg e r e t i nu e of se rvan t s a cou p l e of ,

e l e p han t s a doz e n o r m or e hor s e s p on i e s dog s hun t

, , , ,

i n g ch i t a s e t c
, . I n t h e day s I am wri t i ng of I may
’
sa
y t ha t e v e ry o ffi c e r i n t h e N i z a m s se rvic e wa s a

s or t s man
p . T h e coun t ry s w a rm e d wi t h gam e H og .

hun t i ng and t ig e r — s hoo t i ng

p ar t i e s w e re of fr e qu e n t

occurr e nc e W e oft e n acco m p an i e d ou r fa t h e r i n t o

.

cam p ; I had s e e n man y a t ig e r bowl e d ov e r a n d ,

se v e n or e igh t boar s laid o u t i n a r o w b e fo r e t h e m e s s

t e n t b e for e I w a s s i x y e ar s o f a g e
, .

I l iv e d i n t h e o p e n ai r and t h e re w a s n o t a mi
, ,

vic iou s o r o t h e rwi se (and mo s t of t h e se M ah ra t t a

p on i e s had t e m e r s o f t h e i r own
p ) t ha t,
I could n ot

rid e . I w a s allow e d t o e n t e r i n t o all t h e sp or t s and

gam e s w i t h t h e lad s b e longing t o t h e r e gim e n t I ndia, .

i n t h e day s I allud e t o w a s a v e ry d iffe re n t p lac e to

,

wha t i t i s a t p re se n t Th e re w a s more c a m a r a de r i e
.

b e t w e e n t h e E u rop e an O ffi c e r s and t h e ir m e n T h e .

na t iv e offi c e r s and se p oy s lov e d t h e i r com mand e rs ,

and i t w a s n o t t hough t i nf r a a zg for t h e E ngl is h la ds

'
’
.
 T HE C O M P A N Y S SE R VI C E
’
5

to com p e t e wi t h t h e s on s of t h e comm i s s ion e d non ,

c omm i s s ion e d offi c e r s and p riva t e s b e longing t o t h e

,

na t iv e r e gi m e n t T h e E uro p e an s and na t i v e s al s o m e t
.

i n fri e ndl y rivalry i n t e n t p e gging an d o t h e r gam e s r e

-

qu iring s kill a corr e c t e y e and con s id e rabl e s t r e ng t h

, ,
.

Th e r e w a s n o t a man i n t h e cor p s who would n o t hav e

lai d down h i s l ife for h is s ah ib or any of h i s fam i ly .

A la s wha t a diffe r e nc e t w e n t y y e ars mad e ! V e ry

,

many of t h e d e s c e n dan t s of t ho s e fai t hful m e n lo st

co nfid e nc e i n t h e i r B ri t i sh offi c e rs j oi n e d t h e mu t i ,

n e e r s of 1 8 5 7 and h e l e d t o kill t h e v e ry m e n wom en

, p , ,

and ch ildr e n t h e i r fa t h e r s would hav e di e d t o s av e

Wh e n I ndia w a s clo se d t o all E uro p e an s s av e t h e
se rvan t s of t h e C om p any or t h o s e holdi ng p e rm i t s ,

t h e na t i v e s b e l i e v e d i n u s B u t wh e n t h e cou n t ry w a s
.

gradually t h rown o p e n a n d t h e s t ri ng e n t and whol e

,

s om e ord e r s o f t h e C o m p any w e r e r e lax e d loafe r s , ,

d e magogu e s and m i s s ionari e s fl ock e d i n t o I ndia and ,

t h e na t i v e s com i ng i n t o con t ac t w i t h an al t og e t h e r
,

diffe r e n t cla ss t o wha t t h e y had b e e n accu st om e d t o ,

b e gan t o lo se fai t h i n u s u n t il di s t ru st cul m i na t e d i n

,

t h e t e rribl e e v e n t s of 1 8 5 7 5 8 .

O ur old ma s t e r s u se d t h e i r p at ronag e j udiciou s ly .

T h e gr e a t e r p ar t of t h e c iv il ian s and cad e t s w e r e t h e

son s or n e ar r e la t ion s of e i t h e r t h e m se l v e s or o f
t ho se who had s e rv e d i n t h e i r e m p loy i n H i n d oo s t a n .

Thu s t h e h i st ory of n e arly all wh o w e n t t o t h e E a s t

,

w a s known n o t only t o t h e i r bro t h e r o ffic e r s and

,

c iv il ian s b u t al s o t o t h e na t iv e s and all old nam e s

, ,

w e r e w e lcom e d S i nc e t h e C om p any c e a se d t o e xi st
.

t h e chang e s hav e n o t b e e n for t h e b e t t e r A nyo n e .

c a n now e n t e r t h e I ndian se rvic e p rovid e d h i s p e o p l e

,
6 RE M IN I SCE N C ES OF IND IA

can afford t o hav e h i m cramm e d t o p a ss t h e com

p e t i t i v e e xam i na t ion s M or e t han hal f t h e m e n who
.

t hu s g e t e m p loym e n t a r e n o t wha t t h e y ough t t o b e .

—
B ook l e arn i ng by ro t e do e s n o t t u rn o u t e ffic i e n t
o ffi c e rs .

Wh il s t o f t h e m e n who fo rm e rly e n t e r e d t h e se rvic e ,

e i t h e r t h rough Ad di s c o m b e o r by di r e c t comm i ss ion s ,

v e ry many ro se t o e mi n e nc e s uch for i n s t anc e a s , , ,

M alcol m t h e L awr e nc e s E dward e s B r o a dfoo t s

, , , ,

N ichol s on N e il and many o t h e r s t o o num e rou s t o

, ,

nam e who h a s co m e t o t h e fron t u nd e r t h e n e w

,

r e gula t ion s ? M e n hav e doub t l e s s don e t h e i r du t y ,

b u t non e hav e d i s t i ngu i s h e d t h e m s e lv e s l i k e t he d e

sp i s e d nom i n e e s of t h e old J oh n C om p any M or e .

o v e r i t i s a m i s t ak e adm i t t i ng m e n i n t o t h e s e rvic e i n
,

I ndia who se p ar e n t s hav e n o t occu p i e d any s ocial

’
o s i t ion I don t m e an t o s a t ha t b e cau s e a man i s
p .

y ,

t h e so n of p e o p l e i n t rad e h e i s t h e r e for e an i n e ffici e n t

,

o ffi c e r b u t se nd a s fe w of t h i s cla ss a s p o ss ibl e t o
,

I ndia ; t h e na t iv e s a r e gr e a t j udg e s of wha t co n

s t i t u t e s a g e n t l e man and i f t h e y p e rc e iv e t ha t a m a n
,

a p p oi n t e d t o co mmand t h e m com e s s hor t o f wha t t h e y

hav e b e e n accu s t om e d t o t h e y will n o t h old hi m i n ,

t h e s am e r e s p e c t a s t h e y did t ho s e of t h e old r eg i m e .

I ndia sh ould b e rul e d by a d e p ar t m e n t i nd e p e nd e n t

of Parl iam e n t ary con t rol and t h e a pp o in t m e n t s s houl d
,

b e gi v e n p ri nci p ally t o t h e s on s and r e la t ion s of t ho se

who hav e s e rv e d and p e rhap s d i e d i n t ha t coun t ry
, , ,

p rovid e d of cou r se
,
t ha t t h e a
, pp l ican t s hav e b e e n
’

p pro e rly e duca t e d and ar e

p hy s ically fi t .

A l t hough s lav e ry had b e e n abol i s h e d i n ou r t e rr i

t ori e s i t s t ill e x i s t e d i n m y ch ildhood i n t h e i n d e p e n
,
 A TT AC K E D B Y R O H I LLAS
de n t na t iv e S t a t e s and our ayah s and m o s t of t h e
,

d om e st ic s w e r e all s lav e s t hough n o t t r e a t e d a s s uch

, ,

and t h e r e w a s n o t o n e fro m t h e h igh e s t t o t h e low e st

, ,

’
who w a s n o t p roud t o b e long t o a s ah ib s hou se
hold .

T h e coun t ry w a s t h e n and for many y e ar s aft e r

ward s i n a v e ry di s t urb e d s t a t e gang s of R oh illa s and
A rab s D acoi t s and Th ug s wand e r e d ov e r c e n t ral
, ,

I n dia wh e r e s h e l t e r e d by t h e i n t e rm i nabl e for e s t s

, , ,

t h e y bid e d t h e i r t i m e s allyi ng for t h now and t h e n t o

,

p ou nc e d own n o t o nly o
,
n t rav e ll e r s b u t e v e n on s mall ,

d e t ach m e n t s of s oldi e r s .

"
l r e m e m b e r o nc e our cam p w a s p i t ch e d i n a t o p e o f
t re e s .O ur d e t ach m e n t con s i st e d of a com p any o f
i n fan t ry a n d a t roo p o f caval ry e s cor t i ng t r e a su r e and , ,

w e w e r e s om e t h i ng l ik e hal fway b e t w e e n H i n g o l i e

and j a u l n a h A n hou r o r t w o b e for e daybr e ak a band

.

o f R oh illa s fe ll u p on u s T h e ro p e s w e r e c u t and t h e
. ,

t e n t s fe ll u p on t h e ir i n ma t e s D ir e w a s t h e confu s ion
.
.

W e w e r e a s l e e p i n p alanqu i n s r e ady fo r a s t ar t a t ,

dayl igh t and w e r e awak e n e d by t h e frigh t ful y e ll s

,

and s c re am s of t h e comba t an t s and m or e t han hal f ,

s mo t h e r e d by t h e fall e n canva s Wh e n G r e e k m e e t s .

G r e e k t h e n com e s t h e t u g of war ! O ur cavalry con

,

s is t e d t h e n a s i t do e s e v e n now of a larg e adm ix t ur e

, ,

of Pa t han s R oh illa s and A rab s clo se ly all i e d i n bloo d

, ,

t o our a ssailan t s T h e i n fan t ry co n s i s t e d p ri nci p al ly

.

of s t urdy M ah ra t t a s T h e fir s t s u rp ri s e ov e r ou r
.
,

m e n rall i e d a s t ubborn figh t t ook p lac e and di s ci p l in e ,

t old. A ft e r con s id e rabl e s laugh t e r o n bo t h s i d e s t h e

maraud e r s w e r e dri v e n off and t h e t re a s ur e s av e d I n .

t h e m e le e my fa t h e r r e c e i v e d a s e v e r e s abr e c u t acro s s -
8 RE M I N I SC E N C ES OF
"

I ND IA
th e for e h e ad , th e mark of wh ich he carri e d to th e

grav e .

A y e ar or so aft e rward s ou r r e gi m e n t w a s q uar t e r e d

a t A urungabad a larg e s t ruggl i ng can t on m e n t
,
O ur .

bungalow w a s o n t h e v e ry ou t s kir t s I t had an u pp e r .

s t ory v e ry u nu s ual a t any t i m e i n I ndian hou s e s i n t h e

,

M ofu ss il and qu i t e u n iqu e i n t h o s e day s O u r c o m

, .

p oun d w a s an e x t e n s iv e o n e s u rrou nd e d by a m ud ,

wall s om e fou r fe e t h igh A sp y brough t i n t e llig e nc e .

t o ou r C om mandan t t ha t ou r hou s e con t ai n i n g a s i t ,

di d t h e r e gi m e n t al t r e a s u r e Ch e s t would b e a t t ack e d
-
,

o n a c e r t ai n n igh t aft e r t h e r e c e i p t of p a y by a band

, ,

o f robb e rs O ur u s ual guard co n s i s t e d of a naigu e

.

and t h r e e se p oy s W e w e r e qui e t ly r e i nforc e d aft e r

.

dark by s om e o f t h e i rr e gular caval ry who w e r e h idd e n ,

away i n t h e ou t hou s e s .

A bou t t w o i n t h e m orn i ng t h e D acoi t s som e fift e e n ,

i n num b e r w e ll mou n t e d and w e ll arm e d cam e on t h e

, ,

sce n e . S om e d i s mou n t e d t o forc e an e n t ranc e wh e n ,

t h e ga t e s w e r e t h rown o e n and my fa t h e r and h i s

p ,

m e n fe l l u p o n t h e m T h e t h i e v e s w e r e t ak e n by
.

s ur ri se
p and ,
a t fi r s t ran for t h e i r l iv e s b u t on b e i ng ,

ov e r t ak e n t urn e d t o bay T h e m oon w a s a t i t s full ;

.

w e ch ild r e n hu rri e d i n t o t h e v e randa of t h e u p p e r

s t ory an d wa t ch e d t h e s t ruggl e I t did n o t la s t long . .

E igh t o f t h e robb e r s w e r e kill e d and t h e r e mai n de r ,

ca p t u r e d O n our s id e w e had t w o kill e d and t h r e e

.

wou nd e d .

S o i n m y v e ry young day s I had n o t o nl y s e e n

much sp or t b u t had wi t n e ss e d t w o fr e e figh t s Wh i l st
,
.

a n ln a h a
at
J p icn ic w a s
g o t u
p and a larg e p ar t y of ,

lad i e s and g e n t l e m e n vi s i t e d s om e na t iv e t e m p l e s .
10 RE M IN I SCE N CES OF INDIA
’
to rchl igh t t ook p lac e and al t hough t h e b e a st s p ug s
,

w e re v i s ibl e h e r e and t h e r e t h e p a ssag e s w e re so

,

nu m e rou s and i n t rica t e t ha t t h e an imal e s ca p e d .

O n ou r bi r t hday s w e w e r e d e cora t e d by t h e na t iv e s
wi t h wr e a t h s of j a s m i n e and o t h e r flow e rs The
.

amou n t o f cak e s and s w e e t m e a t s giv e n u s woul d hav e

s t rycook s s h O
’
s t ock e d a a if w had a t n a t n t h
p p e e e e

p ar t of t h e good t h i ng s t hu s lavi s h e d u p on u s w e

s hould hav e b e e n no doub t s e riou sl y ill so all t h e ,

e le
p han t s b e l o ngi ng t o t h e offic e r s and r e gi m e n t w e r e
coll e c t e d and r e gal e d o n t h e s u rp l u s o f our goodi e s .

At o t h e r t i m e s t h e ch i t a s would b e t ak e n o u t aft e r
an t e lo p e b u t e v e n a s a ch ild I t hough t i t ra t h e r a
,

t am e s p or t .

O ur ch ildhood w a s a ha p p y o n e b u t w e w e r e e arl y
,

d e p ri v e d of our p ar e n t s I n 1 8 3 8 ou r fa t h e r wh il st
.
,

hog hun t i ng— a sp or t i n wh i ch h e e xc e ll e d and t o

-
,

wh ich h e w a s d e vo t e dly a t t ach e d— lo s t h is h e l m e t b u t ,

con t i nu e d t h e ch a se bar e h e ad e d I t w a s a frigh t fully

.

h o t day . H e kill e d h i s boar b u t r e c e i v e d a s un s t rok e

, ,

and w a s fou nd l yi ng on t h e p lai n i n s e n s ibl e by a

bro t h e r offic e r who had b e e n follow ing a p ig i n
,

ano t h e r di r e c t ion H e w a s t ak e n hom e i n a dh ool y

.
,

b u t n e v e r r e cov e r e d con s c iou s n e ss and di e d duri ng

,

t h e n igh t .

T h e e v e n t s t ha t follo w e d a re a s v ivi d a s i f t h e y

h ad occurr e d b u t y e s t e rday T h e room i n wh ich o ur

.

fa t h e r s r e mai n s lay w a s t h ro ng e d by se p oy s cryi ng

’

and lam e n t i ng t h e d e a t h o f o n e who had e nd e ar e d

h i m se l f t o t h e m by many ac t s of ki ndn e ss and h e w a s ,

foll ow e d t o t h e grav e by n o t o nly e v e ry E u ro p e an b u t ,

by e v e ry na t iv e i n t h e p lac e .
 O R P HANS 1 1

M i s for t un e s n e v e r com e s i ngly To add t o ou r .

m i s e ry our mo t h e r follow e d h e r h u s ban d t o t h e grav e

,

v e ry s hor t l y and w e w e r e l e ft orp han s i nd e e d and a t

, ,

t ha t t i m e w e had n o t a s ingl e r e la t io n i n t h e cou n t ry .

A bro t h e r O ffi c e r C a p t ai n J t oo k charg e o f u s
, .
, ,

and i nd e e d w a s a s good a s a se cond fa t h e r t o u s

, , .

T e l e gra p h s and s t e am e rs w e r e unknown t h e n C om .

m u n i c a t i o n s w e r e fe w and far b e t w e e n E ngland and

h e r gr e a t d e p e nd e ncy and i t w a s n e arly a y e ar b e for e

,

a r e p ly cam e a s t o our di sp o sal .

W e w e re fi v e or s i x hu ndre d m il e s fro m M adra s ,

and had t o g e t t h e r e t h e b e s t way w e could I n e e d .

n o t d e s cri b e ho w s orrowful w e w e r e wh e n w e l e ft our

ki nd fri e nd s e sp e cially C ap t ai n J and t h e rank and

, .
,

fil e of o ur r e gi m e n t .

W e w e r e s e n t i n charg e o f a p e n s io n e d hav ildar ,

who had b e e n ou r grandfa t h e r s ord e rly duri ng t h e

’

M ah ra t t a war and t hr e e ayah s and t w o gi rl s who

,

w e re b u t l i t t l e old e r t han o urs e lv e s and had b e e n ,

p layma t e s s i nc e w e coul d r e m e mb e r W e t rav e ll e d i n

.

na t i v e car t s fi t t e d u p for our accom moda t ion I t t ook .

u s s om e t hr e e mon t h s t o r e ach ou r d e s t ina t ion O n .

t h e way w e p u t u p i n d ak bungal ow s wh e r e s uch ,

e x i st e d , o t h e rwi se i n choul t ri e s buil t mor e for t h e

,

u se of na t i v e t rav e ll e r s t han for E uro p e an s ; b u t go

wh e r e v e r w e m igh t our nam e w a s w e ll known and w e
, ,

m e t w i t h t h e g r e a t e s t ki ndn e ss e s p e c ial ly from t h e

,

p e n s ion e d s e oy s
p i n charg e of t h e bungalow s and ,

from na t iv e s of all c r e e d s and co ndi t ion s .

W e w e r e con s ign e d t o t h e car e of an offi c e r o f t h e

V e t e ran B a t t al ion t o whom co n s id e rabl e s um s had
,

b e e n r e m i t t e d o n ou r b e hal f I n h i s you ng e r day s h e

.
12 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I ND I A

had r e c e iv e d much ki ndn e ss from our grand p ar e n t s ,

and h e had b e e n a t o n e t i m e a mo st p rom i s i ng O ffic e r ,

b u t wh il s t on fu rlough h e had con t rac t e d a mo st u m

for t una t e marriag e wi t h t h e daugh t e r of a lodging
hou s e k e e p e r
-
.

H i t h e r t o w e had m e t wi t h n o t h i ng b u t ki ndn e ss
fro m fri e nd s and s t rang e r s al i k e b u t w e n ow l e arn e d
,

wha t un ki n dn e ss an d n e gl e c t coul d b e m e t e d o u t t o u s
by t ho s e who ough t t o hav e b e e n t h e mo st fri e ndly a s ,

t h e y had b e e n m o s t l ib e rally p aid t o look aft e r u s .

W e w e r e p u t i n t o a d ila p ida t e d bu ngalow l i t t l e ,

b e t t e r t han a g odow n W e w e r e all b u t hal f s t arv e d

.

i nd e e d had i t n o t b e e n for t h e k i ndn e ss of a fe w

,

E uro p e an s and many na t iv e s— many of t h e la t t e r v e ry

p oor t h e m se lv e s who
-"
h e ari ng ,
of our t r e a t m e n t from

our a t t e ndan t s gav e food and e v e n m on e y t o our

,

ayah s for our u se w e s h ould hav e b e e n i n a sa d

,

p l igh .t

V e s se l s l e ft I ndia a t fix e d da t e s an d a t long i n t e rval s ,

an d g e n e rally form e d a convoy I do n o t r e m e mb e r

.

h o w l ong w e w e r e i n M adra s i t se e m e d t o u s an a g e .

B u t for t h e p ar t i ng wi t h our t w o s abl e a t t e ndan t s I ,

t h i n k w e would hav e w e lcom e d e v e n d e a t h i t se l f .

Ou r grandmo t h e r who had mad e all t h e arrang e

,

m e n t s h a d d i r e c t e d t ha t a s t e rn cabi n of an E a st
,
'

I ndiaman s houl d b e se cur e d for u s and t ha t t w o o f,

ou r ayah s s houl d accom p any u s hom e ; b u t a t t h e

la s t mom e n t t h e wr e t ch e d V e t e ran and h i s wi fe
ock e te d th e a ag mon y for n e of t h e na t i v
p p ss e e o es
-
,

s e ndi ng on ly o n e o n board t o look aft e r t h r e e ch ildr e n ,

t h e young e s t only t w o y e ar s of a g e p r e t e ndi ng t ha t

,

t h e o t h e r had ru n away a t t h e la s t m om e n t ,t hu s
 VO Y A G E H O ME 1 3

l e avi ng u s i n a gr e a t m e asur e t o t h e t e nd e r m e rc i e s of
e rfe c t s t rang e r s
p .

A day b e for e w e sail e d a young and a t t rac t i v e

wido w who had lo st h e r hu s band b u t a fe w day s
,

b e fo re of chol e ra app e ar e d on t h e s c e n e an d w e w e r e
, ,

lac e d no m i nally u nd e r h e r charg e W h e n s h e cam e

p .

o n board s h e w a s a pp are n t l y h e ar t brok e n b u t b e for e

-
,

sh e had b e e n a fo r t n igh t a t s e a h e r gri e f had

e va p o ra t e d ; s h e b e cam e t h e gay e s t o f t h e gay and ,

fl i r t e d w i t h t h e mal e p a ss e ng e r s i n a man n e r t ha t
d r e w u nfavourabl e comm e n t from t h e o t h e r lady p a s
se n e r s B e for e t h e mo n t h t h e w idow t u rn e d u s o u t
g .

of ou r cabi n app ro p ria t i ng i t for h e r se l f W h il e w e w e r e

, ,

bu ndl e d i n t o a m i s e rabl e s id e cabi n T h e s t e ward e ss

'

-
.

w a s a ki nd h e ar t e d s oul and d id all sh e could t o h e l p

-
,

our ayah t o mak e u s co mfor t abl e and hap p y A .

cl e rgyman o n board t ook charg e of t h e boy p a sse ng e r s ,

of whom t h e re w e re se v e ral b e s id e my s e l f and t augh t ,

u s t o r e ad and wri t e W e t ouch e d a t t h e C ap e and a

.
,

r e s id e n t who had known our p e o p l e wh e n t h e y sp e n t

,

a cou p l e of y e ar s t h e r e o n furlough t ook u s on s hor e ,

and bough t u s a l o t of t o y s and p lay t h i n g s .

I n t h e e arly p ar t of t h i s c e n t ury t h e C ou r t of ,

D ire c t ors d i s courag e d t h e i r offic e rs from t aki ng fur

lough t o E ngland b u t allow e d t h e m i n st e ad t w o y e ars
,
’

l e av e e i t h e r t o t h e C a pe o r t o i t s e a s t o n full pa y ,

and allowanc e s of wh ich i ndulg e nc e v e ry many offi c e rs

,

avail e d t h e m se lv e s Th o se w e re t h e halcyon day s of

.

th e C ap e . T h e o ffic e r s sp e n t t h e i r mon e y fr e e ly ;
many brough t back a s w iv e s p r e t t y C a p e girl s who
, ,

w e re hal f E ngl i sh and half D u t ch Th e se gi rl s w e r e a

.

d e c id e d acqu i s i t ion t o I ndian s oc i e t y for t h e y w e r e n o t

,
14 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I ND I A

only you ng an d p r e t t y b u t m o s t of t h e m could rid e ,

l ik e C e n t au r s d anc e and fl i r t ; t h e y w e r e n o t so
,
_

s t rai t lac e d b u t q u i t e a s v i r t uou s a s !t h e i r E ngl i s h

-
,

cou s in s G re a t a t t e n t ion w a s p ai d t o hor se —

. br e e d i ng
a t th e C a p e and t h e nag s w e r e i n gr e a t d e man d i n
,

I nd ia for hu n t i ng and a s r e moun t s and charg e r s , .

A u s t ral ian ho rs e s w e r e all b u t u nknown i n t ho se day s .

F e w I ndian offi c e r s go t o t h e C a p e now t h e C a p e h or s e

i s all b u t u nknown i n t h e P r e s i d e nc i e s M or e s t h e .
’

i t y for i t s s ub s t i t u t e t h e wal e r i s b u t a oor b e a t

p , p
, s ,

com p ar e d t o t h e o t h e r .

A fe w d ay s aft e r l e avi ng t h e C a p e a s t orm s ca t t e r e d ,

t h e fl e e t ; s e v e ral v e ss e l s s an k ; w e e s ca p e d w i t h t h e

lo ss of variou s sp ar s and s ail s A ft e r a voyag e of .

l i t t l e mor e t han t hr e e mon t h s con s id e re d v e ry sp e e dy ,

t h e n w e arriv e d a t Plymou t h and w e r e m e t by ou r

, ,

d e ar ol d grandmo t h e r A ki ndl i e r and nobl e r s oul

.

n e v e r br e a t h e d W e j ourn e y e d wi t h h e r by coach t o
.

L ondo n and u n t il h e r d e a t h w e l iv e d wi t h i n s igh t of

,

L ord s crick e t ground T h e local i t y w a s t h e n al mo st

’
-
.

i n t h e coun t ry and n o t s u rrou nd e d a s i t i s now by

, , ,

st r e e t s O ur grandfa t h e r w a s abroad and b e l e agu e r e d

.
, ,

I b e l i e v e i n A n t w e r p du ri ng t h e s i e g e of t ha t t own
, ,

and w e di d n o t s e e h im for t w o y e ar s H i s wife di e d .

i n D e c e mb e r 1 8 4 2 and w e ch ildr e n w e r e a t onc e s e n t

, ,

o ff t o s chool By t ha t t i m e I had forgo t t e n t h e na t iv e

.

dial e c t s and s t rang e t o s a y wh e n I r e t urn e d t o I ndia

, , ,

t h e y n e v e r b e cam e a s fam il iar t o m e a s t h e y had b e e n

i n my ch ildhood .

O u r grandfa t h e r w a s s e ldom i n E nglan d and a s w e ,

i nh e ri t e d s o m e p ro p e r t y und e r t h e will o f our grand

mo t h e r sh e a p p oin t e d t hr e e guard ian s t o look aft e r
,
 OU R G UAR D I A N S 1 5

our i n t e r e s t s O n e w a s a cou s i n M r A ; ano t h e r

.
, . .
,

S i r G e org e S Gov e rno r of S andhu r s t an old P e n i n

.
, ,

s ular and Wa t e rloo v e t e ran and t h e t h ird G e n e ral B .

,

a r e t i r e d I ndian offi c e r .

Ou r guardian s l e ft M r A t o look aft e r u s H e . . .

w a s v e ry w e ll off b u t v e ry clo se — ,
fi st e d M o ne y wa s .

h i s god H e c e r t ai nly t oo k car e of ou r mo n e y b u t

.
,

n e v e r sp e n t a far t hi ng o f h i s ow n on u s al t hough h e ,

ow e d h i s s ucc e ss i n l ife e n t i r e ly t o h i s au n t ou r grand ,

mo t h e r Wh e n h e r e s ign e d h i s t ru s t y e ar s aft e rward s

. . ,

I w a s gr e a t ly am u s e d by com ing acro ss s u ch i t e m s a s

t h e followi ng Gav e W hal f a crown p ock e t mon e y
‘ -
.

Paid S ix p e nc e fo r a chop fo r e tc and h e ac t ually .

,

charg e d u s for board and lodgi ng s t h e fe w t i m e s h e

e v e r a s k e d u s t o h i s hou s e H i s w e al t h d id h i m l i t t l e
good h e quarr e ll e d wi t h h i s only s o n a s fi n e a fe llow ,

a s e v e r l iv e d an d I b e l i e v e I m igh t hav e had t h e

,

gr e a t e r p ar t of h i s mo n e y had I fall e n i n w i t h h i s ,

v i e w s an d marri e d a gi rl I had n e v e r s e e n B u t I .

w a s an i nd e p e nd e n t fool i n t ho s e day s ; I w ro t e back

t ha t h e ough t t o l e av e h i s mon e y t o h i s s o n and n o t ,

dow e r a girl i n no way conn e c t e d wi t h hi m Th i s .

gav e h i m d ir e offe nc e W h e n h e di e d h e l e ft h i s s o n
.
,

o nl y A t o u s n o t a p e n ny and t h e r e s t o f h i s ,

l arg e for t un e h e l e ft t o s t rang e r s wh o had t oadi e d t o

h i m i n h i s old a g e .

S ir G e org e S cam e t o s e e u s now a n d t h e n a nd

.
,

t i pp e d u s fr e e ly and wh e n h e di e d l e ft u s l e gaci e s i n
, ,

r e t urn a s h e said for ki ndn e sse s sh own t o h i m i n h i s

, ,

you t h by my p e o pl e .

O f G e n e ral B I r e m e mb e r v e ry l i t t l e W e sa w h i m
. .

occa s ionally b u t t ha t w a s all

, .
1 6 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I NDIA
O n a cold raw d a y i n j anuary 1 8 4 3 I w a s t ak e n t o , ,

H anw e ll and d e p o s i t e d a t D r E m e r t o n s coll e gia t e

, .
’

s chool . I t w a s duri ng t h e vaca t ion b u t I found ,

my se l f o n e of s i x you t h s who hav i ng no p ar e n t s i n ,

E ngland had t o r e s id e a t s chool all t h e y e ar rou nd

, .

Wha t t h i s m e an s o nly t h e i n i t ia t e d can t e ll can t h e r e

b e a gr e a t e r cru e l t y t han l e av i ng a boy a t s chool wh e n
all h is ma t e s a r e goi ng t o kind hom e s and fri e nd s and
r e la t ion s ? B u t I m u s t sa y t ha t a t H anw e ll w e w e r e
t r e a t e d m or e a s m e mb e r s O f t h e fam ily t han a s p u p il s it
w a s t h e n e ar e s t a pp roach t o ho m e t hough n o t a ho m e , .

At t ha t t i m e D r E m e r t o n s e ld e s t s i st e r s u pe r i n t e n d e d
’

h e w a s t h e n a widow e r wi t h t h r e e
’

h e r bro t h e r s hou se
l i t t l e gi rl s H e marri e d s oon aft e rwar d s a lady r e la t e d
.

t o a di st ingu i s h e d o ffic e r s t ill l iv i ng and occu ying

,
p
a v e ry h igh p o s i t ion .

T h e acad e m y con s i s t e d of a j u n ior and s e n ior d e p ar t

m e n t t h e fo rm e r w a s p r e s id e d ov e r by M i ss E m e r t o n
and M r B u r t on I e n t e r e d i n t h e low e r form b u t
. .
,

s oo n
p a sse d i n t o t h e s e n io r T h e hou .se w a s v e ry

larg e ; i t had b e e n buil t e x p r e ssl y for acad e m ic p u r

o s e s an d s t ood i n i t s own mo s t e x t e n s i v e ground s
p , .

W e had a grav e ll e d yard for u se i n wi n t e r ; a larg e

cov e r e d i n sh e d fo r p lay duri n g i ncl e m e n t w e a t h e r ;
-

w e had e x t e n s iv e fi e ld s fo r cric k e t and foo t ball and ,

th e m e adow s w e re bound e d by a ri vul e t i n wh ich ,

duri ng t h e s um m e r mon t h s w e w e re allow e d t o ba t h e .

W e w e r e t augh t fe nci ng boxi ng and s i ngl e s t ick W e

,
-
.

had al s o t h e fin e s t gymna s ium I hav e e v e r se e n a n d ,

o n e of A ng e lo s a s s i s t an t s cam e e v e ry S a t urday t o
’

d rill and i n st ruc t u s i n all manly e x e rc i se s Ou r food .

w a s am p l e and good T h e p ri nc i p al h i s s i s t e r and

.
,
1 8 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I N DIA

we w e r e e xcu se d l e ss on s for s om e day s As a ch ild .

I had had s mall p o x se v e r e ly b u t n o t a s ingl e mark

-
,

w a s vi s ibl e T h e doc t o r w a s ignoran t of t h i s of

.
,

cou rs e and wond e re d why t h e vacc i na t ion had no

,

e ffe c t o n m e ; I t ook good car e n o t t o e nl igh t e n h i m

t ill I w a s l e av i ng wh e n I t old h i m ,
H e w a s v e ry .

angry and u se d bad languag e

, I w a s and am fond .

of r e ading and u s e d t o r e ad u p hi s t ory e t c of an

, , .
,

e v e n i ng ; b u t i f w e t du ri ng our lay hou r s I u se d t o

p
-

p rac t i se s ingl e —
s t ick fe nc i ng and boxi ng and I m ay
, , ,

sa t ha t i n t h e fi r s t no o n e i n t h e s chool coul d t ouch

y
me . Wh e n fi n e I w a s al way s run n ing j um p i ng or a t , ,

gym na st ic s t h e r e w a s no boy anywh e re n e ar my a g e

who had a chanc e wi t h m e i n runn i ng from a hundr e d
yard s t o t h r e e m il e s I n e v e r lo st b u t o n e rac e and
.
,

t ha t t o a boy I had oft e n b e a t e n b u t I w a s s uffe ri ng ,

from ch ilblai n s a t t h e t i m e o f my d e fe a t a n d h e ld m y ,

adv e r s ary t oo ch e a p D uri ng t h e hol iday s w e w e r e

.

allow e d co n s id e rabl e l ib e r t y ; w e u s e d t o p lay a t har e

and hound s and I hav e oft e n run fro m morn t ill du s k
-
,

wi t h b u t a s hor t r e st during t h e h e a t o f t h e d a y .

I fancy t h e o u t door l i fe I had l e d in I ndia conduc e d

-

t o giv e m e a good co n s t i t u t ion and con s t an t p rac t ic e ,

i n all s chool gam e s h e l p e d t o co n s ol ida t e and st r e ng t h e n

my sp ar e b u t wi ry fo rm and e nabl e d m e t o e x i s t i n ,

d e adly cl i ma t e s for o v e r foI t y y e ars wi t hou t any v e ry

’

s e riou s ill n e s s I hav e t o t han k t ha t s chool for a fa i r

.

e duca t io n and for p l e a san t m e mori e s of my s chool

lay T h e gr e a t e r p ar t o f my s chool fe llow s w e r e t h e

p s -
.

s on s o f g e n t l e m e n ; w e had o t h e r s o f a low e r grad e ,

b u t t h e s e w e r e i n n o way i nfe rior e i t h e r i n sp or t s ,

i n t e ll e c t or conduc t t o t ho se born s ocially ab o v e t h e m

,
.
 A C H IN ES E SC H OO L F E LL OW 9

On e of u the
il s w a s a C h i n e se T h e s t ory ran
p p .

t ha t h e w a s a p ro t égé of ou r Q u e e n t ha t duri ng o n e o f ,

ou r war s w i t h C h in a t h i s lad w a s t h e s ol e s urv i vor

i n a ci t y t ak e n by u s by s t orm and t ha t al t hough , ,

al mo st a ch ild a t t h e t i m e h e had i nfo rm e d our G e n e ral

,

t ha t b e for e e vacua t ing t h e p lac e t h e C h i n e se h a d

, ,

p oi s on e d all t h e w e ll s A nyhow h e w a s se n t t o t h e
.
,

s chool by t h e Gov e rn m e n t of t h e d a y H e dr e sse d .

o n w e e kday s l i k e t h e o t h e r p u p il s t h e only d iffe r e nc e ,

b e ing h i s long p ig t ail ; b u t o n S unday s h e a pp e ar e d

'

i n ful l mandari n co s t um e and w a s p lac e d i n a m o st ,

con sp icuou s p o s i t ion i n chu rch H e w a s a p a ss iona t e .

lad and had t o s t a nd a good d eal of chaff from h i s

,

p layma t e s b ut o,n t h e whol e h e w a s l i k e d A ft e r .

l e av ing H anw e ll I lo st s igh t of h i m fo r t h r e e y e ar s ;

b u t j u s t b e for e l e av i n g E ngland fo r I ndia I w a s ,

wal ki ng down Bak e r S t r e e t n o t far fro m M adam e ,

T u ssaud s wh e n I sa w my C hi n e se fri e n d dri ving

’

down t oward s m e H e w a s e vid e n t l y a s w e ll a s h e

.
,

had a p ag e o r t ig e r b e h in d h im b u t h e had n o t d i s ,

card e d h i s p ig t ail D i r e c t l y h e s a w m e h e p ull e d u p

.

s har j u m e d off and ran u t m wi t h o e n arm s

p , p p , o e p .

I mu s t own I s houl d hav e p r e fe rr e d ou r m e e t ing t o

hav e t ake n p lac e i n a mor e s e cl ud e d sp o t I n s uch a .

t horoughfar e w e w e r e s oon s urrou nd e d by a crowd ,

who chaffe d and laugh e d a t u s good nat ur e dl y a s k i ng -

,

i f m y fri e nd w a s t h e E m pe ror of C h ina and so on , .

M y fri e nd t ook i t a s a ma t t e r of cour s e for h e p oor , ,

fe llow ! w a s u se d t o s uch mobbi ng ; b u t I w a s cad

e nough t o wi s h my se l f far away and w a s n o t s orry ,

wh e n j oh nny wi sh e d m e good b ye r e moun t e d h is -

,

t ra p and w a s off
, I do n o t kn ow wha t b e cam e of h im
. ,
20 RE M I N I SCE N C ES OF I ND IA
bu t I t h i nk I d id h e ar t ha t h e had b e e n adm i t t e d t o
our navy a s a m id s h i p man H e w a s n o t half a bad .

fe llow .

O cca s ionally I w a s a s k e d t o sp e nd a hol iday a t t h e

hom e of s om e boy a t o t h e r t i m e s I w a s l e ft a t s chool ,

or I vi s i t e d my grandfa t h e r b u t a s h e w a s a mar t yr ,

t o gou t and w a s v e ry i rri t abl e

, I w a s n o t s orry t o g e t ,

away .

E arly i n 1 8 46 t h e M a st e r G e n e ral of t h e Ordnanc e -

gav e m e a nom i na t ion t o Wool wich I w a s t h e n .

’
r e mov e d fro m H anw e ll and se n t t o a cramm e r s a t ,

S hoo t e rs H ill wh o had undoub t e dly t h e b e s t r e p u t e

,

for s ucc e s s fully p a ss ing h is p u p il s i n t o t h e A cad e my .

H ow s uch a man g o t t og e t h e r s uch a s chool i s

a p u zzl e t o m e H e had b e e n i t w a s ru mour e d
.
, ,

originally a car p e n t e r an d w a s s e lf e duca t e d and a

,
-

good ma t h e ma t ic ian M any of t h e old e r boy s w e r e

.

v e ry u nruly and t h e r e u se d t o b e fr e qu e n t row s

,

b e t w e e n h i m and t h e m aft e r which h e u se d t o r e t ir e

,

t o h i s b e d and n o t a pp e ar fo r t w o or t h r e e day s for ,

wh ich w e w e r e duly t hankful A l t hough h i s fe e s w e re .

doubl e wha t I had t o p a y a t H an w e ll w e w e r e n o t hal f ,

a s w e ll fe d O u r l iv e s w e r e a burd e n t o u s duri ng ou r
.

m e al s a s h e u se d t o ca t e chi z e u s t h e whol e t i m e a sk
, ,

i ng u s qu e s t ion s o u t of E ucl id g e om e t ry e t c B u t he, , .

t horoughly und e r s t ood t h e a r t o f c ramm i ng and h i s ,

boy s all p a sse d w e ll .

H e car e d l i t t l e for g e n e ral e duca t io n all h e t hough t

of w a s t ha t w e should l e arn e nough of s uch s ubj e c t s a s
w e r e r e qui r e d t o p a ss i n t o t h e t h r e e m il i t ary coll e g e s
of Wool wich S an dhur st and Addi s c o m b e Wh e n I
, , .

w e n t t h e re fir st h e e xam i n e d m e and t old m e I kn e w

,
 THE T WO GO RD ON S 2 1

e nough h i st o ry and g e ograp hy t hat I n e e d n o t s t udy ,

t h e m long e r b u t d e vo t e my se lf t o ma t h e ma t ic s lan
, p ,

drawi ng for t ifica t ion su rv e yi ng and c i vil and m il i t ary

, , ,

e ngin e e ring H e had t h e e xam i na t ion p a p e rs of t h e

.

t h r e e coll e g e s for t h e a s t t e n or t w e l v e y e ar s and

p ,

u se d t o mak e u s go t h rough t h e m t im e aft e r t i m e ,

‘
F o r sai d h e many of t h e se qu e st ion s a r e s ur e t o
’
‘
, ,

b e s e t agai n
’
I t would hav e b e e n odd i f t h e boy s
.

from ou r s chool had fail e d t o p a ss i n t o Woolwi ch for ,

t h r e e o r fou r of ou r t u t o r s w e r e t h e e xam i ni ng ma s t e r s

a t th e A cad e my and t h e y w e r e n o t l i k e ly t o sp i n
,
‘ ’

t h e i r own p u p il s I n t ho se day s a lad w a s only allow e d

.
-

o n e chanc e i f h e fail e d h e could n o t go u p agai n , .

M any of my s chool fe llow s from t ha t s chool hav e

ri s e n t o e m i n e nc e b u t t h e mo st di st i ngu i sh e d w e r e
,

t h e t w o Gordon s—C harl e s b e t t e r known a s C h i n e s e ,

Gordo n and A dam L i nd say co mmonly call e d t h e

, ,

A u st ral ian p o e t C harl e s w a s a qui e t chubby fac e d

.
,
-

boy t ha t e v e rybody l ik e d As a lad h e did n o t giv e .

o n e t h e id e a t ha t h e would b e com e t h e h e ro h e did .

H e w a s n o t a brill ian t boy i n any way and h e did ,

n ot e xc e l e i t h e r i n t h e s chool room o r i n t h e lay

p
grou nd H e w a s m or e p loddi ng t han s t udiou s A ft e r
. .

e n t e ri ng t h e A cad e my mo st of h i s cla ss ma t e s g o t
,
-

t h e i r com m i s s ion s i n t w o y e ar s b u t Gordon st udi e d ,

on for fou r y e ar s u n t il h e w a s p ro nou nc e d qual ifi e d

for t h e E ngi n e e r s o n wh ich h e had s e t h i s h e ar t
, .

K nowi ng h im a s I d id i n t i ma t e ly for t hr e e y e ar s I ,

can onl y sa y h e di ffe r e d b u t l i t t l e from t h e o t h e r boy s .

W e corr e sp o nd e d off and on a t long i n t e rval s and t h e ,

la st t im e I h e ard fro m h i m w a s wh e n h e w a s t o
s ucc e e d S t anl e y on t h e C ongo wh e r e I w a s t h e n ,
 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

se rvi ng ; h e t h e n e x p r e sse d t h e gre a t p l e a s ure h e

s hould hav e i n m e e t i ng m e agai n aft e r all t h e y e ar s
t ha t had p a s se d b u t a t t h e la s t mom e n t h e acc e p t e d
,

t h e fa t al m i ss ion t o K har t ou m .

W m
‘ h n

A dam L i nd s ay Go rd on no r e la t i on Bf i i is d i s t i n
’
’
‘ "

u i sh e d nam e s ak e w al so t h of an offic r
g as ,
e so n e .

Wh e n h e cam e t o u s h e w a s a l i t t l e ov e r t w e l v e ; h e
had ou t grown h is s t r e ng t h and w a s a long lank y , , ,

narrow — ch e s t e d s hor t s igh t e d lad H e w a s n o t cl e v e r

,
-
.

i n t h e g e n e ral acc e p t a t ion of t h e word b u t a s a ,

romanc e r and mor e p ar t ic ularly a s a p o e t h e e xc e ll e d

, ,
.

G i v e h i m a t h e m e and h e would wri t e p ag e u p o n pag e

,
.

M any o f h i s t al e s wri t t e n b e for e h e w a s t w e lv e w e r e a s

t h rill ing and e xci t i ng and m uch o n t h e s am e l i n e s a s
, ,

‘
T h e M y s t e ri e s of U d ol p h o or T h e C a s t l e of O t ran t o
’ ’
‘
.

B u t t h e di ffi cul t y w a s t o i nduc e h i m t o s t ick t o any o n e

t h i ng long H e would b e gi n a doz e n t al e s an d p o e m s
‘

.
,

and l e av e t h e m all u nfin i s h e d I w a s s o m e wha t old e r.

,

and had s om e i n flu e nc e ov e r h i m and t ri e d t o i nduc e ,

h i m t o fi ni s h a p o e m h e call e d T h e D i s i nh e ri t e d h e ‘ ’

had com p l e t e d s om e t e n can t o s wh e n I l e ft b u t I fe ar ,

t ha t h e n e v e r g o t fu r t h e r for i t i s n o t among s t h i s
,

p ubl i s h e d work s I t comm e nc e d

.

O n R oyst o n st oo d t h e a st l e fa C i r

b d
I t s a n n e r s fl oa t e i n t h e a i r
’
.

I had qui t e a coll e c t io n of h i s t al e s and p o e m s fo r

y e ar s b u t lo st t h e m i n B urma wi t h t h e gr e a t e r p ar t of
, ,

m y k it .

H u n t o u r cla ss ical t u t or w a s madl y fond o f p o e t ry

, , ,

and u s e d t o wal k abou t t o ss i ng h i s arm s s p ou t i ng ,

Ta sso and o t h e r I t al ian p o e t s qu i t e obl iviou s t ha t ,

 I O BT A I N A CAD E T S H I P 2 3

wic e t hi r t y fi v e e y e s w e r e wa t ch ing h is an t ic s H e
t -
.

woul d sp in rou nd and ca t ch u s gri nn i ng a t h i m and t ry ,

t o loo k a s unco nc e rn e d a s p o ss ibl e I t w a s a s good a s .

a p lay t o wa t ch fi r s t h i s di sgu st a s t h e gr e a t e r p ar t of
, ,

u s s t umbl e d t h rough ou r
p or t ion of V _
i rgil an d t h e n h is ,

d e l igh t a s Gordon would sp ou t h i s i n cla ss i cal v e r s e ,

o f wh ich n e i t h e r D ryd e n nor Po p e n e e d hav e b e e n

a sham e d W e fully e x p e c t e d t ha t A dam would fail t o
.

a ss t h e m dical xam i na t io n for n t ranc i n t o t h

p e e e e e

A cad e my owi ng t o h i s d e fe c t iv e e y e s igh t b u t h e w a s

e qual t o t h e occa s io n and wh e n a s k e d wha t h e s a w on
, ,

t h e road n e ar t h e R o t unda r e p l i e d A car t and hor se ‘ ’

.
, ,

T h e m e dico look e d b u t could se e no t h i ng b u t A dam

, ,

‘
no way aba s h e d s aid Oh t h e y w e r e clo se t o t h e
, , ,

corn e r an d mu st hav e t urn e d i t T h e s urg e on n o t

’
.
, ,

knowi ng h is d e fe c t and s u sp e c t i ng no t h ing p a sse d

, ,

h i m I hav e r e ad i n an illu st ra t e d sp or t i ng p a p e r o f
.

t h e wond e rful fe a t s of s t r e ng t h p e rform e d by t h e p o e t ,

and of h i s e xc e ll i ng i n boxing and i n a t hl e t ic e x e rci se s ;

all I can sa y i s t h a t u p t o t h e e n d of 1 8 4 8 h e w a s
,

w e akly for h i s s iz e and d id n o t s h i n e t h e n i n any

,

s o r t s and a s for boxi ng h e had n o t an id e a o f how

p , ,

t o u se h i s fi st s .

W i n
g t o S hoo t e r s H ill my nom ina t io n t o

t h e A cad e my la p se d t h rough t h e d e a t h of t h e M a st e r

G e n e ral of t h e O rdnanc e S i r G e org e S t h e n offe r e d

. .

m e an a p p o in t m e n t t o S an dh ur s t b u t my grandfa t h e r ,

p r e fe rr e d t ha t I s hould go t o I ndia S i r j am e s L u sh .

i n g t o n t h e C hai rman o f t h e C our t of D i r e c t or s fi r s t

, ,

g av e m e a nomi na t io n for Add i s c o m b e b u t aft e r t h e ,

d e a t h of m y grandfa t h e r i n F e bruary 1 8 4 8 h e v e ry
, , ,

ki ndly gav e m e a t my r e qu e s t a d ire c t cad e t sh i p M y

, ,
.
24 RE M I N I SCE N C ES OF INDIA

c ramm ing w a s n o t al t og e t h e r t h rown away b e cau se , ,

b e for e I had forgo t t e n wha t I had l e arn e d I p a s se d i n

,

s u rv e yi ng and c ivil and m il i t ary e ngin e e ri ng and w a s

, ,

ronounc e d qual ifi e d t o se rv e i n t h e D e ar t m e n t o f
p p
Publ ic Work s .

B e for e l e av ing E ngland my guardian M r A gav e

, , . .
,

m e a bu ndl e of p a p e r s con t ai n ing r e c e i p t s fo r r e m i t

t anc e s t o M adra s on o u r b e hal f wh e n ch ildr e n and ,

corr e sp ond e nc e b e t w e e n ou r grandmo t h e r and t h e

V e t e ran t o wh om w e had b e e n se n t t e ll ing m e t o b e
,

car e ful n o t t o lo se i t a s s e v e ral d e mand s had b e e n

,

mad e aft e r t h e old lady s d e a t h by t ho s e u n s cru p ulou s

’

p pe o l e t o e x t or t m on e y u nd e r variou s
p r e t e xt s B ut .

h e s aid t ha t o f la t e y e ar s h e had h e ard no t h i ng fur t h e r ,

as h e had t hr e a t e n e d t o p roc e e d agai n s t t h e m for

a t t e m p t i ng t o l e vy blackmail addi ng how e v e r t ha t h e
, ,

fully e x p e c t e d o t h e r e nd e avour s would b e mad e by

t h e m aft e r m y arri val i n I nd ia ,
wh i ch p rov e d t o b e
corr e c t a s I s hall r e lat e h e re aft e r
,
.
2 6 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I N D IA

e xc e ll e n t abl e w a s k e p t
t Wh e n t h e w e a t h e r p e r
.

m i t t e d t h e band p lay e d of an e v e ni ng w h il e t ho s e wh o
, ,

l e a se d danc e d t o t h e i r h e ar t s con t e n t and du ri ng h

’

p t e

day t h e r e w e r e all ki nd s o f gam e s .

W e had a rough t i m e of i t i n t h e Bay of B i s cay .

W e d id n o t s e e much of G ibral t ar b u t sp e n t a day a t ,

M al t a and w e n t back lad e n w i t h sack s full o f orang e s

,
.

O n arriv i ng a t A l e xandria w e had hal f a d a y t o s e e t h e

s igh t s ,
b e i ng obl ig e d t o mou n t don k e y s b e ari ng t h e
mo st ari s t oc ra t ic and di s t i ngui sh e d nam e s Th e r e .

w e r e P a l m e r s t o n s J oh n ny R u ss e ll s W e ll i ng t on s
, , ,

Bluch e rs B righ t s Co b d e n s e t c
, , I nd e e d t h e r e w a s
,
.
,

s carc e ly a man of no t e i n E uro p e who had n o t an

a s in i n e r e p r e s e n t at iv e — a t all e v e n t s i n nam e We .

vi s i t e d C l e o p a t ra s N e e dl e s—o n e i s now on t h e Tham e s

’

E mbankm e n t and t h e o t h e r i n t h e U n i t e d S t at e s —and

,

al s o Pom p e y s P illar ; and w e al s o had our fi r s t e x p e r i

’

e nc e of a T urki sh ba t h W e t h e n e mbark e d o n larg e

.

barg e s and w e r e t ow e d u p t h e M a h m o o di e C anal

,

u n t il t h e N il e w a s r e ach e d wh e n w e w e r e t ran s fe rr e d
,

t o a s mall s t e am e r wh i ch t ook u s u p t o C ai ro Th e re .

o ur s t ay w a s j u st long e nough t o e nabl e u s t o vi s i t

t h e Pyram id s t o hav e a cha t w i t h t h e hom e ward bound
,
-

p a s s e ng e r s wh o had j u s t arriv e d and t o h e ar o f th e,

d i s a s t rou s ba t t l e s of R a m n u g g e r and Ch ill ia n w a l la h ,

wh e r e t w o s chool fe llow s of m i n e w e r e kill e d o n e ov e r ,

t h e d e ad body of h i s fa t h e r O n e of ou r cad e t s w a s
.

looki ng forward t o m e e t i ng h i s fa t h e r t h e A dj u t an t ,

G e n e ral of t h e B e ngal A rmy b u t t h e firs t n e w s h e ,

r e c e iv e d aft e r landi ng a t C alcu t t a w a s t ha t h i s fa t h e r

h ad b e e n kill e d a t t h e crown i ng vic t ory of G ooj e ra t .

O ur j ourn e y ac ro ss t h e d e se r t co mm e nc e d a t du sk .
 AD V E N T URE AT A DE N 2 7

Th e r e wa s a brigh t moo n E ach van h e ld s i x p a s .

se n e r s wh i ch w a s ra t h e r a Clo s e fi t i n s uch a co n
g ,

v e a n c e for s uch a l ong t e diou s t ri b t I know t ha t

y p u ,

I for o n e t horoughly e nj oy e d my s e l f I w a s s e ldom .

i n s id e ; I e i t h e r ran along s id e or m oun t e d o n a s mall

‘
st e
p ou t s id e an d did conduc t or l e avi ng mor e room ,
’

fo r t h e o t h e rs .W e sa w a fe w gaz e ll e s and s and

grou s e and v i s ion s of fu t u r e sp or t fli t t e d b e for e ou r
,

e ye s . E v e n a t t ha t t im e of t h e y e ar t h e su n w a s v e ry
ow e rful and a t s om e of t h e hal t i ng p lac e s i t w a s n o
p
-
,

u nco mmon s igh t t o s e e a fowl sp i n rou nd and rou nd ,

an d t h e n dro p down d e ad t o b e sp e e dil y conv e r t e d ,

i n t o sp a t c h cock wh i ch i n t h e E a s t i s g e n e ral ly
‘ -
,
’

’
t e rm e d s udd e n d e a t h .

W e had many sp i n st e r s on board W e cad e t s sa w .

v e ry l i t t l e of t h e m a s t h e y w e r e m ono p ol iz e d by ou r
,

s e n ior s b u t of cour s e w e cam e t o know mo s t of t h e m

,
.

Th e r e w a s a p r e t t y l i t t l e girl M i ss G bound for ,

.
,

A d e n t o j oi n h e r s i s t e r who w a s marri e d t o a doc t or,

on t h e B ombay s id e a t t ach e d t o t h e E uro p e an r e gi m e n t

,

t h e n quar t e r e d t h e r e W e re ach e d t h e p or t ra t h e r la t e
.

a t n igh t s o la t e t ha t a s se ng e r s w e r e forbidd e n t o land

, p
u n t il n e x t morn i ng a s t h e ca p t ai n an offi c e r o f t h e
, ,

I ndian N avy s ai d i t w a s n o t s afe t o v e n t ur e o n s ho r e

,

du ri ng t h e dark a s t h e r e w e r e many bad charac t e rs

,

abou t
B u t M i s s G wan t e d a l e t t e r t ak e n t o h e r s i s t e r s o
.
,

I volun t e e r e d and wi t h ano t h e r cad e t sl i pp e d i n t o a

,

boa t t ha t cam e along s id e W e w e r e n o t s e e n and g o t .

,

a shor e all righ t W e did n o t know a word o f A rabic

.

or H i ndoo s t ani o r any t h i ng o f t h e p lac e b u t w e s i m ply

, ,

t ru s t e d t o luck W e fou nd a fe w donk e y s r e ady

.
28 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

s addl e d m oun t e d a cou p l e and rod e along a road

, ,

wh ich w e p r e s u m e d l e d t o t h e can t on m e n t W e fou nd .

i t much fur t h e r t han w e had bargain e d for and i t w a s ,

a s t m idn igh t wh e n w e r e ach e d t h e mai n guard and

p ,

how t h e s e n t ri e s p e rm i t t e d u s t o p a ss I do n o t know ,

for w e kn e w n e i t h e r p arol e n or coun t e r s ign ; b u t w e

g ot i n s om e h ow and comm e nc e d t o i nqu,
i r e wh e r e

D r D l iv e d T o do t h i s w e had t o knock u p se v e ral

. . .
,

i ndividual s who n o t p l e a s e d a t b e ing di s t urb e d a t t ha t

, ,

t i m e of n igh t t old u s t o go t o a lac e e v e n ho t t e r t han

, p
A d e n W ha t t o do w e di d n o t know I t mu s t h av e
. .

b e e n clo se o n 3 a m W e b e gan t o d e sp ai r and t hough t .

,

of di s mou n t i ng and lying down s om e wh e r e b u t d e t e r ,

m i n e d a s a la s t forlorn ho p e t o t r y onc e mor e W e .

w e n t bol d ly u p t o a s mall hou se and t h e r e w e fou nd ,

a sa pp e r offic e r P who good na t u r e dl y s e n t h i s se r

, .
,
-

van t w i t h u s t o p oi n t o u t t h e m e dico s dom i c il e ’

D r D s a s t on i s h m e n t may b e i m a g i n e d w h e n w e
. .
’

r e s e n t e d h i m wi t h a l e t t e r a t m B u t h e wa s
p a .

ho sp i t al i t y i t se l f W e w e r e p r e sse d t o e a t and d r i n k
.

b e d s w e r e i m p rovi se d fo r u s o n wh ich w e t h r e w our ,

s e l v e s and w e r e fa s t a s l e e
,
p i n a fe w m i nu t e s A t day .

ligh t aft e r a r e fr e sh ing ba t h w e accom p ani e d t h e

, ,

doc t or t o t h e s t e a m e r and r e t u rn e d agai n t o h i s h ou se .

wi t h t h e fai r s p i n st e r T h e cap t ain p i t ch e d i n t o u s for .

’
d i s ob e yi ng ord e r s b u t all s w e ll t ha t e nd s w e ll w e had
,

had ou r sp r e e an d w e r e non e t h e wor s e e i t h e r for our

,

j ourn e y or h i s j oba t ion W e sp e n t a v e ry p l e a san t .

day wi t h D r D an d h i s fam ily and my comrad e w a s

. .
,

so s m i t t e n wi t h t h e charm s of t h e young lady t ha t h e

confid e d t o m e h i s i n t e n t ion of r e t u rn ing and marrying

he r . Th e r e w e re fift y t w o r e gim e n t s i n M ad ra s t h e n -
,
 A F A I TH LESS L OV E R 29

only o n e of wh ich w a s s t a t ion e d a t A d e n s o t h e ,

—
chanc e s w e r e gr e a t l y agai n st h i s r e t urn i ng t h e r e and
h e w a s of t h e ma t ur e a g e of s i x t e e n ! S t rang e t o sa y ,

h e w a s p o s t e d t o t ha t v e ry r e gi m e n t t h e 3 r d N a t iv e ,

I nfan t ry ; b u t wh e n h e r e ach e d t ha t G ibral t ar of t h e

E a s t h e fou nd h i s fai r o n e alr e ady t h e brid e o f t h e
,

v e ry man who had a ss i s t e d u s t o find D r D s hou se . .

’

t h e n igh t of our adv e n t u r e .

A mong st t h e young ladi e s t h e r e w e r e t w o s i s t e r s ,

bou nd t o M adra s Th e y w e r e bo t h v e ry good l ook

.
-

i ng b u t t h e y oung e r w a s al mo st b e au t iful d e cid e dly

, ,

t h e b e ll e of t h e s h i p an d of cou r s e r e c e iv e d a gr e a t
,

d e al o f a t t e n t ion A c e r t ai n o ffi c e r wo n h e r affe c t ion s

.
,

and o n ou r arri val a t M adra s t h e r e w a s a v e ry p ainful

sc e n e T h e p oor gi rl lo st all co n t rol ov e r h e r s e l f and
.
,

lay fai n t ing i n h i s arm s fo r h e w a s boun d for C al cu t t a

, .

H e t ri e d t o s oo t h e h e r and s wor e h e would r e t urn

,

and marry h e r T h e e ld e r s i s t e r marri e d v e ry s oon

.
,

and w e ll T h e young e r r e main e d a sp in s t e r r e fu s ing

.
,

many offe r s wh ich sh e r e c e i v e d F or t e n y e ars no t h ing .

w a s h e ard of h e r lov e r b e yond t ha t h e w a s t ran s

,

fe rr e d fro m o n e s t aff app o i n t m e n t t o ano t h e r B u t on .

b e ing p romo t e d t o a fi e l d o ffi c e r h e w a s o rd e r e d t o -

r e j oi n h is r e gi m e n t t h e n s t a t ion e d a t o n e of our
,

fron t i e r s t a t ion s i n B u rm a wh e r e t h e p oo r girl s t ill

, ,

unmarri e d and wo rn t o a m e r e s hadow of h e r form e r

,

se l f , w a s l ivi ng H e g o t a s far a s R angoon and

.
,

t h e n h e aring whom h e w a s l ik e ly t o m e e t o n j o in ing

, ,

t ook l e av e on u rg e n t riva t e affai r s and e xchang e d i n t o

p ,

ano t h e r r e gim e n t and t hu s w a s s acrific e d t h e l ife and

ha pp i n e ss of a s p re t t y and a s good a girl a s e v e r l iv e d ,

t hrough board sh i p fl i r t a t ion

-
.
 30 RE M IN I SC E N CES OF I N D IA

I t wa s al mo st du s k wh e n w e an ch or e d o ff M adra s .

A s e rg e an t cam e on board for t h e ca d e t s W e w e r e .

p ut i n t o p alanqu i n coach e s fo r co nv e yanc e t o Pala

th e
’
v e ra m , cad e t s h e adquar t e r s T h e se w r e t ch e d .

t ra p s a r e call e d sfi zgr a m p oe s (go qu ickly ) for t h e ,

re a son t ha t t h e y crawl along I t mu s t hav e b e e n .

clo se on m idnigh t wh e n w e arriv e d wild w i t h d e l igh t ,

at g e t t ing on shor e agai n W e w e re hungry and .

,

clamour e d for food an d for t una t e ly t h e re w e r e t h e

,

r e mai n s of a r e p a s t p rovid e d for ano t h e r p ar t y ,

wh ich t h e nat iv e s e rvan t s s oo n p r e p ar e d and p lac e d

b e for e u s .

T h e r e w e r e b u t se v e n co t s for t h i r t e e n of u s b u t by ,

p u t t i ng t h e m along s id e of o n e ano t h e r w e fou nd w e

could manag e t ill n e x t day Wh il e t h e s e arrang e .

m e n t s w e re b e i ng carri e d o u t o n e o f t h e cad e t s b e gan ,

danci ng on a b e d st e ad and i n fun kick e d o ff t h e bu t l e r s

,
’

t urban —a n i n s ul t s o flagran t a s t o a st oni s h e v e n t ha t

anci e n t o fficial ! H e how e v e r gav e a r e p roach ful , ,

glanc e a t h is a ssailan t p ick e d u p h i s h e ad g e ar and s ai d

, ,

qui e t ly : M a st e r yo ung g e n t l e man n o t know b e t t e r .

’

*
T h e ma t e y w a s a charac t e r H e had b e e n many .

y e ars t h e r e and had b e e n t augh t by variou s cad e t s t o

,

s i ng E ngl i s h s o ng s mo s t o f t h e m o f a v e ry qu e s t i on
,

abl e charac t e r wi t hou t u nd e r s t anding a word o f t h e m

,
.

H e would r e p e a t t h e m l i k e a p arro t am id st t h e laugh t e r ,

of h i s audi e nc e .

N e x t mo rn ing w e w e r e i n sp e c t e d by W il d e r our ,

S u p e ri n t e nd e n t T h e r e could n o t hav e b e e n a fi t t e r
.

man for t h e p o s t H e kn e w how t o co mbi n e f or t zfe r

'

i n r e wi t h s u a v zi e r i n m oa o H e b e long e d t o t h e
’
’

A su b ordi i
n a t e n a t v e se rv a n t .
 MY M ESSMA T ES 3I

moun t e d branch o f t h e s e rvi c e and had b e e n a no t e d ,

p g i -
s t ick e r and an all rou nd s or t s man and t hough n o
p
-
,

long e r young h e had n o t forgo t t e n h i s you t h or wha t

, ,

boy s a r e mad e of H e p u t no u n d u e r e st ric t ion s u p o n

.

u s b u t i n t h e mo s t g e n t l e manl y way t ol d u s wha t w e

,

could and wha t w e m u s t n o t do and h e w a s t horoughl y ,

ob e y e d W e n o t o nly l i k e d b u t r e sp e c t e d h i m T h e
. .

Q uar t e rma s t e r G e n e ral of t h e A rmy had known m y

-
,

p e o pl e , and h e w a s mo s t ki nd t o u s all i nv i t i ng u s ,

t o di n e w i t h h i m a t h i s bungalow s i t ua t e d on a h igh ,

i nnacl e a t P a la v e ra m n ar our q u ar t e r s
p e , .

I t i s t im e I said a fe w word s o f our m e ss ma t e s .

O ne of t h e m B w a s a fi n e looking manl y p ow e r
, .
,
-
, ,

ful fe llo w v e ry good com p any wh o could s i ng a

, ,

good s ong and sp i n yarn s o f sp or t wh ich mad e ou r

,

m ou t h s wa t e r U n for t unat e ly h e w a s m a m /en s suj e t

'

.
,

b u t n ot t o u s H e n e v e r d id u s o u t o f a p e nny or
.
,

allow e d u s t o b e im p o se d u p on i n h i s p r e se nc e He .

had a t o n e t im e b e e n o rd e rly o ffic e r a t Ad d i sc o m b e ,

b u t g e t t i ng i n t o mon e y d iffi cul t i e s h e had r e t i r e d t o ,

F ranc e for a wh il e wh e r e h e had p ick e d u p a p re t t y

,

l i t t l e gi rl wi t h a m od e ra t e dot wh ich cl e ar e d h i m o f h i s
,

d ifficul t i e s for t h e t im e and e nabl e d h im t o r e t u rn t o

,

I ndia S h e w a s r e ally v e ry n ic e and lady l ik e b u t sh e

.
-
,

kn e w l i t t l e or n o E ngl i sh and o nl y o n e o f u s gri ffs ,

‘ ’

coul d conv e rse wi t h h e r i n h e r own languag e so I am ,

afraid sh e l e d ra t h e r a hu mdrum l i fe .

Th e r e w a s al so a s ubal t e rn offic e r i n command o f a

d e t ach m e n t of N a t iv e I nfan t ry H e w a s marri e d and .
,

had a s i st e r i n law t o di sp o se o f wh om h e would n o t

- -
,

hav e obj e c t e d t o hand ov e r t o any of t h e g r iffi n s had ,

anyon e s hown t h e l e a s t i ncl i na t ion t ha t way H e w a s .

 32 RE M IN I S CE N C E S OF IN D I A

n ot a n ic e charac t e r H e had a brok e n kn e e d hors e

.
-
,

wh ich h e s wor e w a s a fi r st ra t e p ig st ick e r ; b u t I - -

s t rongly s u s e c t h e w a s s om e ca s t hor s e from e i t h e r

p
t h e C aval ry or H o rs e A r t ill e r y wh ich had b e e n bough t ,

fo r a ru p e e or t w o H e w a s g e n e rou s e nough t o offe r

.

e ach of u s an old worn o u t ri fl e wh ich h e d e clar e d had -

,

s lai n num e rou s t ig e r s Th e se e s t i mabl e good s w e r e t o

.

b e di sp o s e d o f for t h e ridiculo u s su m of 4 0 0 ru p e e s
e ach .

H e w a s al s o ki nd e no u gh t o t ak e off our hand s a s

gift s c e r t ai n u nd e r clo t h ing and kn ick knack s fo r wh ich
- -
,

h e a s s ur e d u s w e s hould hav e no u s e I n app e aranc e .

,

way s and m e an s h e r e m i nd e d o n e gr e a t ly of S oap y

, ,

S p ong e w i t hou t t h e manl i n e ss of t ha t charac t e r I f

, .

B w a s p r e s e n t t h i s g e n t l e man w a s mu t e ; b u t i n h is
.
,

ab s e nc e h e u se d t o brag gr e a t l y of wha t h e had don e .

W ild e r kn e w h i s man and cau t ion e d u s t o hav e ,

no t h ing t o do w i t h h i m o r t h e good s h e wi sh e d t o
di s p o se of b u t mo re p ar t icularl y t o avo id any e n t angl e
,

m e n t w i t h t h e sp i n W ild e r w a s r e p u t e d t o b e t h e
‘
.
’

b e s t j udg e o f a horse i n t h e P r e s id e ncy and t h e s t abl e ,

k e e p e rs i n M adra s w e r e o nl y t o o glad t o r e c e i v e an
ord e r from h i m t o s e nd u p s om e for t y or fift y hor se s fo r
h is i n sp e c t io n E ach nag w a s cri t ically e xam i n e d and
.

ridd e n and h e p urchas e d fo r e ach of u s a fai r o n e

, ,

wh ich co st u s abou t 2 5 0 ru p e e s W e had no t h ing t o .

do s o sp e n t our t i m e i n s hoo t ing and ridi ng I had

,
.

n um e ro u s l e t t e r s of i n t roduc t ion b u t did n o t u se o n e ,

of t h e m a s t h e y w e r e g e n e rally t e rm e d t ick e t s fo r
,

s ou — t ha t i wh n you r e se n t e d on e you w e re
p s e , p ,

a s k e d t o di nn e r and t h e r e t h e acquai n t anc e p robably

,

c e a se d .
34 REM I N I SC E N CES OF I N D IA

a e r s i n my o s s e s s ion b e for e h im and e x lai n e d t h e

p p p ,
p
t r e a t m e n t my s i s t e r and I had r e c e i v e d a t t h e i r hand s

wh e n w e w e r e ch ildr e n .

Tha t e v e n i ng W ild e r an d I di n e d wi t h t h e
Quar t e rma st e r G e n e ral and w e t ol d h i m t h e whol e
-
,

s t ory . H e t ol d m e I should h av e con sul t e d Wild e r

b e for e se nding s uch a r e p l y a s i t s t on e w a s u n j u st i
,

fi a b l e wh e n addr e s se d t o a s e n ior offic e r b u t h e a s k e d

m e t o l e av e t h e p a p e r s wi t h h i m and h e would lay
t h e m b e for e h i s E xc e ll e ncy I h e ard no t h ing m or e
.

o ffic ially on t h e s ubj e c t b u t t h e Quar t e rma s t e r G e n e ral

,
-

t old m e t h e C h i e f had ord e r e d t h e V e t e ran u p t o t h e

A dj u t an t G e n e ral s o ffic e an d had wal k e d i n t o h i m

-
’

hand s om e ly and t ha t b u t for t h e abj e c t a p ologi e s h e

,

mad e layi ng t h e whol e blam e o n h i s wife and p l e ad

, ,

i ng h i s ignoranc e of t h e a t t e m p t e d blackmail h e woul d ,

hav e b e e n p lac e d u nd e r arr e st and p robably t ri e d .

C t ol d m e I t w a s n o t l ik e l y t ha t I sh ould b e an noy e d
.

or mol e st e d agai n b u t adv i se d m e t o lay all t h e cor

,

r e sp ond e n c e b e fore t h e l e ad i ng s ol ic i t or i n M adra s ,

wh o t ol d m e any clai m I m igh t hav e had w a s barr e d

by t h e law o f l i m i t a t i on wh ich al so app l i e d t o t h e
,

V e t e ran a s w e ll an d t ha t from t h e p ap e r s I had gi v e n

,

h i m t h e re w a s no doub t t h e y had no clai m on m e b u t ,

i f t h e y e v e r wro t e t o m e agai n I w a s t o r e fe r t h e m t o
h im I n e v e r h e ard any t h i ng mor e fro m t h e m n o r
.
,

did I m e e t t h e m i n any s oci e t y .

I hav e now t o r e lat e a s a d acc id e n t Word w a s .

brough t o n e day t ha t a cou p l e of hy ae na s had b e e n

mark e d down o n s om e rocky h i ll s abo ut t w o m il e s
d i st an t I w e n t aft e r t h e m i n com p any wi t h a fe llow
.

cad e t W e b e a t all t h e l i k e ly p l ac e s b u t n o t fi ndi ng

.
,
 A F A T AL ACC I D E N T 35

t h e m comm e nc e d t o fi r e a t a s mall e ar t h e nwar e p o t

,

s u s e nd e d
p o n a s t al k of a Palmyra p al m for t h e
u
p p r o se of coll e c t i ng t h e j u ic e wh i ch i s com monly,

call e d by E uro p e an s t oddy .

B e yo nd t h i s t r e e wh ich w a s o n e of many form i ng a

,

t o p e t h e r e w e r e vi s ibl e o nly bould e r s of rock s and h ill s

,

se e m i ngl y un inhabi t e d and w e n e v e r dr e am t t ha t

,

t h e r e coul d b e t h e l e a s t dang e r t o anybody from a

s t ray s ho t .W e had e ach fire d se v e ral t im e s wh e n ,

t h e r e aro se s udd e nly a gr e a t ou t cry an d t h e m e n w i t h ,

u s d e clar e d s om e on e had b e e n s h o t I n a fe w m i nu t e s
.

hundr e d s of e xc i t e d na t iv e s t urn e d u p a s i f by magi c ,

arm e d wi t h [ a l l i e s (form idabl e st av e s) t h r e a t e n ing u s ,

w i t h blow s and a t t e m p t ing t o di sarm u s I t w a s I

, .

who had fi re d t h e la st s ho t W e di s ch arg e d ou r

.

r e mai n ing barr e l s i n t o t h e ai r and o n a p e on a pp e aring

, ,

w e s urr e nd e r e d our w e a p o n s t o h im and w e r e march e d

back t o P a l a v e r a m t ak e n b e for e W ild e r and charg e d
,

wi t h w ilful murd e r W ild e r a t onc e a sse mbl e d a cou r t

.

of i nqu iry t ook down t h e e vid e nc e and ord e r e d u s t o

, ,

ou r quar t e r s u nd e r arr e st T h e p roc e e ding s w e r e s e n t

.

t o army h e adquar t e r s and by t h e v e rdic t w e w e r e

,

acqu i t t e d and r e l e a se d B u t t h e n e w sp ap e r s more

.
,

e s p e cially t h e na t iv e on e s w e r e v e ry bi t t e r again st u s
, ,

and k e p t s how e ri ng accu sa t ion s u p on u s S o W ild e r .

re c e iv e d ord e r s t o t ak e u s b e for e t h e se ss ion s j udg e ,

t ha t t h e ca s e m igh t b e t horoughl y i nv e s t iga t e d i n

cour t S o o n t h e a p p oi n t e d day Wild e r drov e u s t o
.

t h e r e s id e nc e o f t h e j udg e (who b y t h e b y bor e ,

- -
,

an e x t raordi nary l ik e n e ss t o t h e G r e a t D uk e ) W e .

br e akfa st e d wi t h h im and t h e n w e re march e d o ff t o

,

t h e cour t t ri e d for our l iv e s and honou rabl y acqui t t e d

,
.
36 R E M I N I SCE N C E S OF INDIA
I t wa s
p rov e d t ha t t h e fa t al s h o t had glanc e d O ff t h e

s t al k o f t h e al m s t ruck a s t on e a hundr e d and fi ft y

p ,

yard s away and ricoch e t i ng had h i t a man s t oo p ing

, , ,

d own p lan t i n g o u t p addy and cau s e d al mo s t i n s t an

,

t a n e o u s de at h As t h e s ho t imm e dia t e ly b e for e t h e

.

acc id e n t w a s m i n e I acc e p t e d t h e blam e and by

, ,

W ild e r s advic e I p aid t h e widow 3 0 0 ru p e e s and ,

allow e d h e r 7 ru p e e s a mo n t h for l ife D i r e c t ly t h i s .

w a s known wom e n sp rung u p by t h e doz e n all clai m

, ,

i ng t o b e t h e r e al w idow an d all wi t h i n num e rabl e ,

ch ildr e n an d I b e l i e v e n i n e t e n t h s of t h e marri e d
,
-

wom e n would hav e con se n t e d t o b e com e widow s o n

t h e s am e t e rm s B u t W ild e r arrang e d e v e ry t h ing t h e
.

p e n s ion w a s
p ai d for abou t t w o y e ar s and t h e n la se d
p , ,

for t h e claiman t c e a se d t o a p p e ar W h e t h e r sh e had

'

di e d or r e marri e d and gon e far away I n e v e r kn e w

, ,
.

A ft e r a s hor t r e s i d e nc e a t t h e cad e t s quar t e r s w e ’

w e r e ap p oi n t e d t o do du t y w i t h variou s r e gi m e n t s and ,

t h e gr e a t e r p ar t o f u s w e r e s e n t t o B angalor e u nd e r

charg e of an offi c e r of t h e M adra s F u s il i e rs wh o h a d ,

b e e n a fe llow p a ss e ng e r w i t h u s W e had a d e l igh t ful

-
.

march T h e s t ag e s w e r e e a sy T h e cold se a so n w a s
. .

n o t qui t e ov e r and a s duck t e al

,
and s ni p e abou nd e d
, , ,

w e e x p e nd e d m uch am mu ni t ion and i f w e did n o t s lay ,

much w e e nj oy e d our se lv e s gr e a t ly T h e r e gim e n t I

,
.

w a s se n t t o w a s t h e 1 4 t h M adra s N a t iv e I n fan t ry com ,

m a n d e d by a c e r t ai n M aj o r wh o had com e o u t i n t h e
s am e s t e am e r w i t h u s O n e of t h e offi c e r s of t h e cor p s
.

w a s al s o a bro t h e r o f h i m who had t ak e n charg e o f

my se l f and my s i s t e r s on ou r fa t h e r s d e a t h and all t h e ’

offic e r s w e r e a p ar t icularly n ic e se t and show e d u s ,

m uch ki ndn e ss .
 OU R B R I G AD I ER 37

I s hall n ot forg e t m y fi r s t driv e i n B angalor e .

A ft e r r e p o r t i ng my arri val a t t h e br i gad e offic e I w a s ,

hu n t i ng abou t for a s u i t abl e hou s e t o l iv e i n M y .

co nv e yanc e w a s t h e u sual sfi zlg r a m fi e T h e hor se .

t ook frigh t and ran away ; charg e d a h igh mud wall ,

and w a s kill e d on t h e s p o t t h e dri v e r w a s s e n t sp rawl

i n g ov e r t h e wall and I w a s l e ft d e p o s i t e d w i t hou t a
,

bru i s e am id s t t h e débri s of t h e carriag e wh ich w a s ,

com p l e t e ly s ma sh e d T h e 1 4 t h w e r e arm e d wi t h t h e
.

fl i n t mu s k e t and I l e arn e d my mu s k e t ry e x e rc i s e
,

wi t h t ha t anc i e n t w e ap o n O ur B rigadi e r w a s v e ry .

un p o p ular ; h e w a s a gr e a t mar t i n e t and frigh t full y ,

g i v e n t o cu r s i ng an d s w e ari ng a t offic e r s and m e n

on p arad e S om e y e ars ago t h e Gilb e r t cour t mar t ial
.
-

cau se d a gr e a t s e n sa t ion S om e t h ing v e ry s im ilar

.

occu rr e d i n B angalor e wh e n I w a s t h e r e The .

G e n e ral w a s s w e ari ng a t and abu s i ng an offi c e r of

H M s s1 3 t K i ng s O wn L igh t I nfan t ry who s t e pp e d
’ ’
. .
,

‘
o u t of t h e ran k s s h e a t h e d h i s s word
,
s aying Sir I , , ,

did n o t e n t e r H M s se rvi c e t o b e s worn a t by you

. .
’

,
’

and wal k e d off t h e grou nd O f cour s e h e w a s p u t .

und e r arr e s t b u t w a s n e v e r t ri e d H e w e n t hom e o n

,
.

furlough and t h e t h i ng bl e w ov e r b u t I b e l i e v e t h e ,

G e n e ral caugh t i t w e ll from t h e C ommand e r i n C h i e f - -

and aft e rward s wh e n e v e r h e wan t e d t o v e n t h i s sp l e e n

, ,

h e u s e d t o s w e ar frigh t fully a t h i s hor s e and add , ,

C a p t ai n (or M r ) S o and so you know wha t I m e an

’
‘ - -
.
.
,

T h e l a t e S i r T homa s P e y t on w a s o ur A dj u t an t and ,

a righ t good o ffic e r h e w a s t o o ; l i k e t h e re st of h i s ,

fam ily h e e xc e ll e d a s a wh i p and u se d t o driv e fou r

, ,

i n hand
-
Bangalor e w a s a v e ry p l e a san t s t a t ion b u t n o t
. ,

a v e ry moral p lac e for a l o t of you ng st e r s t o b e s e n t t o .

38 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I N D IA

W e s oon p a sse d o u r drill and mad e s om e l i t t l e

,

p rogr e ss i n H i ndoo s t an i A t la
. st w e w e re p o st e d

p e rman e n t ly t o na t iv e r e gi m e n t s M i n e w as
. at

S e cund e rabad s om e t h r e e hu ndr e d m il e s di st an t

,
.

O ur C olon e l t old u s n e v e r t o borrow mon e y from

na t iv e sowcar s b u t if e v e r w e w e r e hard u p fo r a
,

fe w ru p e e s t o go t o h im W e r e c e iv e d our march i ng
.

ord e rs al t hough t h e mon s oon had n o t qui t e c e as e d

,
.

A ft e r all our l iabil i t i e s had b e e n p aid i t w a s a t o ss u p ,

-

wh ich o f u s w a s i n t h e mo st i m p e cuniou s s t a t e I .

kno w I had o nly 7 or 8 ru p e e s l e ft I d id n o t l ik e t o .

a s k t h e ki nd old M aj or fo r h e l so I w a s all b u t a
p ,

b e ggar wh e n I l e ft .

W e had r e ach e d our fir st s t ag e and w e r e won de r ,

i ng how w e s hould manag e wh e n an ord e rly arriv e d

,

wi t h a no t e from o n e of t h e s e n ior C ap t ai n s of t h e
r e gim e n t saying h e had h e ard o f t h e s t a t e of p ov e r t y
,

w e w e r e i n and s e n t 2 00 ru p e e s t o b e r e p aid wh e n
,

q u i t e co nv e n i e n t a s t h e y w e r e i n no hurry for i t i t
, ,

b e i ng a j oi n t co n t ri bu t ion of h i m s e l f and bro t h e r offic e r s .

H e r e w a s a god se nd ! Wha t an a c t o f con s id e rat ion

and ki ndn e ss ! V e ry fe w would t h ink of doi ng s uch
an a c t nowa d ay s b u t t h e old I ndian s w e r e v e r y
,

d i ffe r e n t t h e n t o wha t t h e y a r e now I w a s abl e t o .

r e p ay t h e amou n t wi t h i n t h re e mon t h s a s I wro t e t o ,

my guardian for s om e fund s wh ich h e r e m i t t e d w i t h

,

many a grumbl e .

As t w o of u s w e r e goi ng t o S e cund e rabad w e k e p t ,

I 5 0 ru e e s and gav e 5 0 ru e e s t o o n e who w a s only

p , p
go i ng t o B e llary b u t h e grumbl e d and growl e d a t my
,

n o t givi ng h i m mor e .

A n offic e r of t h e 5 t h who had charg e o f u s w a s a

, ,
 P RAC T I CAL J O K ES 39

big s t rong fe llow u nd e r t h ir t y who had s om e t i m e

, , ,

b e for e b e e n badly maul e d by a b e ar b u t w a s t h e n ,

s ou nd and w e ll W e had a v e ry p l e a san t march

. .

T h e r i v e r s w e r e i n fl ood an d w e had gr e a t t roubl e ,

i n c ro ss ing s om e of t h e m e sp e cially t h e T o o m b o o d r a ,
.

O n arrival a t K urnool w e w e r e t h e gu e st s of t h e ,

m e ss of t h e 5 t h N a t iv e I nfan t ry T h e rai n s r e c o m .

m en ced , and A rm st rong a C ap t ai n i n t h e corp s , ,

e r s uad e d t h e C om mandan t t o d e t ai n u s u n t il t h e r e
p
w a s a l ull . W e had n o offic e r goi ng o n w i t h u s W e .

k n e w no t h i ng o f t h e cou n t ry or o f t h e languag e s so ,

a s th e road s w e r e n e arly i m p a ssabl e t h e di fficul t i e s ,

forward w e r e v e ry gr e a t T h e offi c e r s would n o t

.

p e rm i t u s t o b e co m e honorary m e mb e r s t h e y i n si st e d

o n our b e i ng t h e ir gu e s t s so w e l iv e d i n clov e r for a ,

for t n igh t or m or e wi t hou t b e i ng p u t t o any e x p e n se .

A rm s t rong w a s a no t e d charac t e r H e p lay e d more .

p rac t ical j ok es on h i s s e n io r s t han any o t h e r man

would hav e dar e d t o do b u t h e w a s known t o b e a ,

fi r s t ra t e o ffi c e r and w a s allo w e d gr e a t la t i t ud e
-
, On .

on e occa s ion h e w a s ord e r e d t o t ak e u p s i x o r

se v e n r i ffi n s and l e av e t h e m a t a s t a t io n com mand e d
g ,

by an ol d e n e my o f h is T h e B rigadi e r w a s a s bald .

a s a vul t ur e and v e ry t ouchy A rm s t rong p rovid e d

,
.

h im s e l f wi t h a w ig O n n e ari ng t h e s t a t ion o n s om e
.
,

h h
’

p r e t e nc e , e l e ft t h e car t s co n t ai n i ng t e e n s ign s

u n iform s e t c b e h i nd b u t t ook good car e t o hav e h is

, .
, ,

own k i t handy H e had wri t t e n t o fri e nd s t o lay o u t

.

a d ak for h im D i re c t ly h e r e ach e d t h e h e adquar t e r s

.

of t h e brigad e h e r e p or t e d h i s arrival an d d e par t ure

,

a t t h e offi c e . H e t h e n r e t urn e d t o t h e d ak bu ngalow ,

s e n t for a barb e r and i n fron t o f h i s p ro t égé s had h i s

,
40 RE M I N I SCE N C E S OF I ND IA

h e ad S hav e d and t ol d t h e m i t w a s by ord e r of t h e

,

G e n e ral and t ha t t h e y t o o mu st u nd e rgo t h e s am e

,

o p e ra t io n Th e y t h i nki ng i t w a s a bon é fid e ord e r

.
,
-
,

and t ru s t ing t o t h e e xam p l e s e t t h e m s ubm i t t e d t o t h e ,

o p e ra t ion A rm s t rong d e p ar t e d wi t h h i s bald h e ad t o

.

call u p on t h e G e n e ral b u t t ook car e of cour s e t o p u t

,

on h l S W I g b e for e h e g o t t h e r e I n a bri e f i n t e rvi e w

.
,

h e e x p lai n e d t ha t t h e you ng g e n t l e m e n would p a y

t h e i r r e sp e c t s n e x t day a s t h e car t s wi t h t h e i r u n iform s
,

had n o t arriv e d H e t h e n t ook h i s l e av e r e t urn e d t o

.
,

t h e bungalow w i t hou t h i s wig and all e ging t ha t h e

, ,

had r e c e iv e d ord e r s t o l e av e a t onc e bad e t h e gri ffs ,

’
adi e u warn e d t h e m t o b e a t t h e G e n e ral s a t I I a m
,
.

o n t h e mo rrow g o t o n h i s hor se and p icki ng u p h i s

, , ,

’
r e lay s w a s far b e yo nd t h e G e n e ral s j u ri s dic tion
,

b e for e daybr e ak At t h e a p p oi n t e d t i m e t h e se v e n
.

griffs call e d and w e r e s hown u p t o t h e r e c e p t ion room -

,

t h e G e n e ral t h e n b e i ng bu s y in h i s o ffic e Th e r e .

t h e y sa t i n a row faci ng t h e door Wh e n t h e migh t y.

o ffic ial e n t e r e d h e sa w b e for e h i m se v e n s cal p s mor e

,

bald t han h i s ow n ! H e s wor e h e rav e d ; would ,

l i st e n t o no e xcu se s bang e d t h e door t o ru sh e d t o t h e

, ,

B ri g ad e M aj or and bad e h i m confi n e t h e cad e t s t o t h e i r

,

quar t e r s u nd e r clo se arr e st Tha t O fficial w e n t off t o

.

e x e cu t e h i s u n l e a s an t t a s k wond e ri ng wha t i n th e
p ,

world w a s t h e ma t t e r ; b u t wh e n h e sa w t h e lad s w i t h
t h e i r s hav e n crown s h e w e n t i n t o roars of laugh t e r ,

and a s k e d t h e m wha t t h e y m e an t by a pp e ari ng i n s uch

a gu i se T h e y e x p lai n e d ma t t e r s and w e r e t ol d t o go
.
,

hom e and n o t t o s how t h e m s e lv e s t o t h e G e n e ral

u n t il t h e i r cro p s had grown agai n W h e n t h e righ t .

v e r s io n w a s t ol d t o t h e G e n e ral h e w a s doubly furiou s

, ,
42 RE M I N I SC E N C ES OF I NDI A

wa s th e cau se of all t h e s quabbl e s T h e i m m e dia t e

.

cau se of h is s u sp e n s ion w a s e ggi ng o n t w o yo u ng

offic e r s t o figh t a d u e l wh ich had t h e n b e e n s t ric t ly
,

forbidd e n I t i s t ru e t ha t a fe w du e l s occurr e d i n t h e
.

army aft e r I j o i n e d b u t t h e y w e r e known o nly t o

,

t h e comba t an t s an d t h e i r s e cond s Tha t du e ll ing w a s

.

occa s ionally abu se d t h e r e i s no doub t S t ill it had a

.
,

d e t e rr e n t e ffe c t and for s om e i nj uri e s w a s t h e Only

,

mo d e of ob t ai n ing s a t i s fac t ion and i t i s a p i t y t ha t i t

,

w a s al t og e t h e r abol i sh e d
.
 C H AP T E R I H .

S E C UN D E R AB AD .

Sec u n de ra b a d i n 8 4 9 —N igh t i ga l e M a st e ot figh t fa i —A

1 n r n r n

o b st e p e ou s C a p t a i —
r r H ow t o m a ge a t i v e s —S a d de t h o f a
n na n a n

Adj u t a n t —M o l e Al l e y a c e — Am se m e t s— G m b l i g —
r s R e gi u n a n

m e n t o d e e d t o S m l c o tt a h —
r r M y st u d —Am a pp o i t e d t o t h e
a u n

sa p p e s a n d m i e s—
r D i ffi c u l t y o f g e tt i g t o B u m a —R a goo
n r n r n n

E m p l oye d o n fi e l d se rv i c e — M i a c u l ou s e sc a p e of t wo d
-
ke r ru n n

gu n e s n r .

I N 1 8 49 S e cu nd e rabad w a s a j olly p lac e W e had a .

larg e forc e and e ach r e gi m e n t had i t s band bill iard ,

t abl e and I t s s w i m mi ng ba t h and w e w e r e all o n t h e

,
-
,

mo st fri e ndl y t e rm s S om e of t h e na t iv e r e gim e n t s

.

had good e l e v e n s and i n t h e col d w e a t h e r crick e t w a s

,

fre qu e n t ly p lay e d T h e 4o t h N a t iv e I nfan t ry com

.
,

m o n l y call e d t h e
‘
F o r t y Th i e v e s could h ol d t h e i r ,
’

ow n a t ou r na t io nal gam e agai n st m o s t E uro p e an

cor ps T h e ar t ill e ry glori e d i n a l o t o f r e ckl e ss rid e rs
.
,

and i n o n e s t e e p l e cha s e fou r o f t h e offic e rs w e r e lying

i n a di t ch and t h e o t h e r s j um p i ng ov e r t h e m and ov e r
,

t h e ob s t acl e a st ro ng fou r foo t fe nc e Th e y w e r e a

,
-
.

ca p i t al s e t o f fe llow s b u t r e gular madca p s Th e r e ,

.

w e re many offic e r s wh o had known m e a s a ch ild and ,

I r e c e i v e d t h e gre a t e s t ki ndn e ss fro m t h e m all W e

had many famou s s old i e r s and s h e k a r ie s —S h a k sp e a r
.

,
44 REM I N I SCE N CES OF I NDI A
N igh t i ngal e , theO rrs W e dd e rbu rn Wy a t t
two , , ,

Cl o u g s t o u n and many o t h e r s F rank V ardon o n e of .

,

t h e e arl y i on e e r s i n S ou t h A frica who had b e e n a

p ,

’
fri e nd of m y fa t h e r s a sk e d m e t o v i s i t h i m and s how e d
, ,

m e much s p or t .

I had b e e n a s hor t wh il e i n S e cund e rabad wh e n ,

t h e r e w a s a grand fi e l d day AS a griff I w a s a m e r e

-
.

look e r o n-
S t andi ng n e ar t h e flag s t aff I n o t i c e d a
.
-
,

p ar t icularly hand s om e man i n a gorg e ou s na t iv e

co st u m e t alki ng t o t h e B rigad i e r J am e s H e w a s , .

fai r wi t h blu e e y e s j e t black hai r wh i s k e r s and b e ar d

, , ,

p ar t e d a t t h e ch i n and bru s h e
,
d u
p t oward s t h e e ar s ,

’
wi t h a long d roo p i ng mou st ach e I don t t h i nk I e v e r
s a w a fi n e r or a hand som e r man H e w a s s u p e rbly .

m oun t e d F rom h i s dr e ss I t hough t h e w a s s om e gr e a t

.
,

man from t h e c i t y and w a s a s t on i s h e d a t h i s t al ki ng

,

i n fl u e n t E ngl i sh ; S O I a s k e d a by s t and e r who w a s

t h e na t iv e who w a s conv e r s i ng w i t h t h e G e n e ral He .

re pl i e d ,
Wha t n a t i v e ? I s aid T h e o n e i n t h e
‘ ’

,
‘

’
gorg e ou s co st um e wi t h bl u e e y e s and black b e ar d
, .

H e bur s t o u t laugh i ng and s aid : Why do n t you ‘ ’

, ,

know who t ha t i s ? Why i t i s S h a k S p e a r of t h e , ,

N izam I rr e gular C aval ry I w a s a s t on i sh e d F am iliar .

’
.

a s mu s t hav e b e e n t h e u n i form t o m e i n my you ng e r

day s I had qui t e forgo t t e n i t and had n o t s i nc e my

, , ,

j oi ning my r e gim e n t m e t any of t h e B olaru m m e n,

.

H i s cou s i n H W B lak e w a s v e ry l ik e h im a n d
,
. .
, ,

bo t h w e r e fi r st ra t e sh e k a r i e s
-
.

N igh t i ngal e w a s n o t a hand s om e man h e had h igh

ch e e k bon e s and a ragg e d nond e s cri p t b e ard H e
-
, .

w a s a s p l e nd id hor s e man and had p robabl y no e qual , ,

u nl e s s i t w a s F ran k S im son a s a hog hun t e r Wh e n ,

-
.
 N IG HT I N G ALE 45

he wa s mou n t e d h e i nvariabl y carri e d a hog — s e ar

p ,

and would p rod a l e af h e r e and a t wig t h e r e and ,

s e ldom m i s se d h i s mark H e had m e an s of h i s

.

own and good p a y fro m Gov e rnm e n t H e had

, .

se ldom l e ss t han a doz e n hor se s i n h i s s t abl e He .

ob t ai n e d t h e m from Bombay wi t h t h e r e moun t s for

h i s r e gim e n t mad e t horough h un t e r s of t h e m and by
, ,

t h e s al e of t w o or t h r e e p aid fo r t h e r e st H e could .

s i ng a ca i t al s ong and acco m any h i m se l f o n

p p t h e

p iano . H e w a s al s o a b i t of a
p o e t i n h i s way and ,

wro t e s om e good hog hu n t ing s ong s H e w a s u m

-
.

doub t e dly a gr e a t sp or t s man b u t w a s n o t a p l e a san t

,

com p an ion i n t h e fi e ld a s h e w a s i ncl i n e d t o b e

,

j e alou s H e had gr e a t i n flu e nc e w i t h h is s owar s and

.
,

t h e y would hav e ob e y e d h i m t o t h e d e a t h .

H e and t h e O rr s con s t an t l y h un t e d t og e t h e r and ,

had fr e qu e n t row s and t h e wond e r i s t h e y di d n o t

,

co m e t o blow s for t h e O rr s w e r e p robably t h e mo s t

,

‘
p a ss iona t e m e n i n I ndia and ,
B ul bul u s e d c e r t ai
’
nly
t o t ry t h e i r t e mpe r . I h e ard t h e followi ng s t ory :
T h e r e had b e e n a hard figh t for fi rs t s p e ar wh ich a s , ,

u sual fe ll t o N igh t i ngal e

, H i s o pp on e n t rod e u p t o
.

h im boil ing wi t h rag e and s aid : S i r I t h in k duri ng

, ,
‘
,

t h e ru n you call e d m e a
’
W e ll t ha t i s odd !
‘
,

‘
r e p l i e d B u lbul a s cool a s a cucu mb e r ;
, I ne ve r
o p e n e d my l i p s du ri ng t h e run and how you hav e ,

d ivi n e d my t hough t s I do n o t know ; b u t al t hough

I s aid no t h i ng I hav e o ft e n t hough t you o n e ! T h e
,
’

audac i t y of t h e r e p ly t ickl e d t h e o t h e r s fancy t o

s uch an e x t e n t t ha t h e b ur s t o u t laugh ing and fo r ,

t h e t i m e b e i ng t h e y w e r e o n sp e aki ng t e rm s again ,

wh ich d id n o t happ e n oft e n .

 46 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I N DI A

N igh t ingal e had a l o t of v e ry s avag e Polygar dogs

t h e y had g o t u s e d t o o n e p ar t icular boy and h e and ,

h e only coul d manag e t h e m ; a s t rang e r t h e y woul d

hav e t orn t o p i e c e s Th i s lad w a s ab s olu t e ly me c e s
.

s ary t o N igh t ingal e y e t h e of

,
t e n mal t r e a t e d h i m .

T h e p oor wr e t ch s t ood i t a s l ong a s h e could and ,

t h e n a s k e d for h i s di s charg e wh ich N igh t i ngal e r e ,

fu se d wi t h a kick T h e na t i v e d r i v e n w ild a pp e al e d
. , ,

t o h i s bro t h e r a cook boy i n H M s 8 4 t h R e gim e n t

’
-
. .
, ,

to he lp him N ow v e ry m any of t h e se l ow ca st e
.
,
-

M a d r a s si e s a r e v e ry p ow e rfully buil t and only r e qu i r e ,

t u i t ion and t rain i ng t o b e com e na s t y cu st om e r s in a row .

E u ro p e an s oldi e r s w e r e hard p u sh e d for amu se m e n t i n

t ho s e day s so t h e Tomm y At k i n s e s t o p a s s away t h e
, ,

t im e u se d n o t o nl y t o p i t t h e s e cook boy s again s t e ach

,
-

o t h e r b u t would t ak e a t urn wi t h t h e m t h e m se lv e s
, ,

u n t il t h e P e r a m o o t o o s or wha t e v e r t h e i r nam e s m igh t

,

b e l e arn e d n o t only t o u s e t h e i r fi st s b u t t o s t and

, ,

a good d e al of p u n i s hm e n t ; and a s t h e y w e r e k e p t
con st an t ly i n t rai n ing t h e y g o t a s hard a s nail s and
’
a s s t rong a s br e w e r s carm e n and b e cam e n o m e an ,

p r o fi c i e n t s i n t h e a r t of se l f d e fe nc e and a t t ack -
T h e .

’
bro t h e r cam e t o N igh t ingal e s quar t e rs and a s k e d v e ry
’
r e sp e c t fully fo r h i s bro t h e r s di s charg e N igh t ingal e .
,

a s t ou nd e d a t t h e man s i m p ud e n c e i n daring t o ’

i n t e rfe r e gav e h i m a clou t on t h e h e ad and t ol d

,

h i m t o go abou t h i s bu s in e ss and t ha t i f h e d ar e d ,

t o S how h i s fac e agai n h e woul d t h ra s h hi m w i t h i n an

i nch o f h is l i fe T h e na t iv e t ook t h e cuff w i t hou t

.

fl i n c h i n g and coolly s a y ing

, M a st e r do t ha t bu s i n e ss
, ,

I d o s am e comm e n c e d t o s t ri p N igh t ingal e sa w a t

,
’
.

onc e h e had caugh t a t ar t ar T h e man s mu s cl e s .

’
 RU LE OF T H E ROD 47

st o od l i k e ball s of wh i p cord and t h e way h e h e ld

ou t ,

h i s m a u l ie s roclai m e d t ha t h w a s no nov ic e at
u
p p e

t h e gam e o f fi s t i c u ffs A t e rrifi c figh t t ook p lac e

. .

N i gh t i ngal e w a s s e v e r e l y p un i sh e d and b u t for h i s , ,

e x t raordi nary l e ng t h o f arm and alway s b e i ng i n good

fe t t l e woul d p robably hav e had t h e wor s t of i t ; b u t

,

fi ndi ng t h e na t iv e t oo s t r ong and s kil ful for h i m h e ,

t ru st e d t o h i s gr e a t r e ach and h i t o u t wh e n e v e r h e
,

sa w a blow com ing and cou n t e r e d wi t hou t r e c e ivi ng

,

m uch p un i sh m e n t aft e r t h e fi r st fe w rou nd s duri ng ,

wh ich t h e na t iv e had had a l o ng way t h e b e s t o f i t .

I h e ard N igh t i ngal e de s crib e i t a s t h e hard e st figh t

h e had e v e r had i n h i s l ife At la st E ngl i s h p l uck
.

and e ndura n c e aid e d by l e ng t h o f arm won t h e day

, , ,

an d N igh t i ngal e knock e d h i s o p p on e n t down se n se l e ss ;

wh e n h e r e cov e r e d I am s orry t o sa y N igh t i ngal e
, ,

w a s i n s uch a rag e t ha t h e gav e t h e man an u n m e r c i

ful t h ra sh i n g and fe ar e d h e had al mo s t ov e rdon e i t

, ,

s o h e s e n t t h e cook boy t o t h e B rigad e M aj o r wi t h

-
,

t h e followi ng l e t t e r

MY D E AR A .
,

‘
Th i s n igg e r has b e e n mo st i n s ol e n t . Pl e a se
’

p un i sh h i m .

A re pl i e d
.

‘
MY D E AR N .
,

l e ss you sa y abou t i t t h e b e t t e r I t h i n k
The , .

t h e man h a s had s uffi ci e n t p un i sh m e n t for any offe nc e ,

’
h ow e v e r gr e a t .

Tal ki ng of na t iv e s s t icking u
p to E u ro p e an s , th e

foll owi ng I can vouch for

48 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I N D I A

H of t h e 3o t h had s t ruc k h i s ma t e y boy i n t h e

.
, ,

p r e se n c e of wi t n e sse s T h e n a t i v e t ook o u t a s u m .

mon s agai n s t h is ma st e r who w a s fin e d by t h e can t on ,

m e n t magi s t ra t e S uch a t h i ng a s a na t iv e haul i ng

.

u
p h i s ma s t e r fo r a blow w a s u nh e ard of i n t h o se
day s and H bid e d h i s t i m e ; h e s aid no t h ing and
, .
,

k e p t t h e boy o n a s i f no t h ing had ha pp e n e d O n e .

day wh e n h i s se rvan t brough t h i m h i s e arly c u p o f t e a ,

H j um p e d o u t of b e d and fa st e n i ng t h e door s a i d
.
, , ,

‘
Y ou i nfe rnal blackguard ! I ll t e ach y o u t o haul m e
’

u
p b e for e a magi s t ra t e ; t h e r e a r e n o wi t n e s s e s and ,

’
I ll giv e you a d ( 1 good t hra s h i ng T h e man
’
.

p r e t e nd e d t o cry w i p i ng h i s e y e s o n h i s s
, l e e v e and ,

blubb e r e d o u t : M a s t e r s ur e no wi t n e sse s g o t ? ‘ ’

’
Q ui t e s ur e r e p l i e d H T h e n s aid t h e ma t e y boy
, .
‘
,
’

‘
d ro pp i ng all p r e t e nc e I giv e ma st e r o n e big h idi ng , ,

and t o h is a st o n i s h m e n t walk e d i n t o h i m i n fi n e
, ,

s t yl e H had n o t a chanc e h i s boy w a s far s t rong e r

. .

and a far b e t t e r brui se r and knock e d h is ma s t e r i n t o ,

a cock e d h a t H w a s o n t h e p o in t o f cryi ng p e ee a m
. .
,

wh e n h e b e t hough t h i m t ha t h e had o n a p ai r of
s t ou t s ho e s so a s a la s t r e s ou rc e
,
h e kick e d u p caugh t
, , ,

t h e man i n a v e ry t e nd e r p ar t and doubl e d h im u p , .

J u st t h e n t w o o f u s cam e u p t o s e e H t h e d oor w a s .

bur s t o p e n and a na t i v e ru sh e d o u t w r i t h i n g i n ago ny

'

howl i ng M a s t e r n o t figh t fai r ; don e kick m e t h e r e !

‘
,

As for H h i s mo t h e r would n o t hav e known h i m

.
, ,

and w e could s carc e ly di s t i ngu i s h o n e fe a t ur e fro m

ano t h e r H e had t o go o n t h e s ick l i s t H i s boy
.
-
.
,

who w e l e arn e d aft e rward s had b e e n a cook boy i n

, ,
-

a ba t t e ry of ar t ill e ry di sa pp e are d ; and i n aft e r l ife i f ,

-
,

w e wan t e d t o g e t a ri s e o u t of H w e had only t o .

,
50 REM I N I SCE N CES OF I NDI A

among s t th e
no n comm i ss ion e d offic e r s and a fe w of
-

th e m e n and t al k e d t o t h e m of t h e advan t ag e s of
,

b e ing p ro p e rly shod B u t t h e na t i v e s a r e v e ry av e r se

.

t o chang e ; t h e i r for e fa t h e r s had worn s andal s t h e y ,

s ai d ; t h e boo t s would co s t mor e t h e y c ram p e d t h e

,

fe e t i t w a s agai n st t h e i r cu st om b e s id e s o t h e r o bj e c
, ,

t ion s t o t h e con t e m p la t e d chang e and I fe ar t ha t ,

t h e y w e re e ncourag e d to r e b e l by M B u t th e .

C ol on e l allow e d a t ho rough t rial o f t h e boo t s h e had

i s su e d and t h e n ord e r e d a p arad e
,
H e t al k e d t o t h e
.

m e n i n t h e i r ow n dial e c t s for h e w a s e qually a t hom e

,

i n H i ndoo st an i Tam il an d T e l e e g o p oi n t ing o u t t h e

, , ,

advan t ag e s o f boo t s ov e r t h e na t i v e s l i p p e rs a n d ,

rom i s e d t ha t i f t h e y w e r e ado p t e d t h e ric e of t h e

p p
fi r st i ss u e s hould n o t e xc e e d t ha t of t h e s andal s and ,

t ha t o n e p ai r of boo t s would la s t t w ic e a s l ong a s t h e

o t h e r s H e com m e nc e d w i t h t h e righ t —
. hand man of
t h e Gr e nadi e r s and a s k e d i f h e
, woul d w e ar t h e m .

T h e man r e fu s e d M ak e a p ri s on e r of h i m s aid t h e
.
,
’

C olo n e l Th e n h e a s k e d t h e n e x t man and s o o n t o

.
, ,

t h e e n d of t h e l i n e and t h e r e w a s n o t ano t h e r r e fu s al
, .

O ur r e gim e n t t hu s b e cam e o n e of t h e fi r s t t o b e
p p ro e rl y s hod T
. h e offic e r al r e ady r e fe rr e d t o t h e n

t ook to p u t t i ng s cu rrilou s adv e r t i se m e n t s i n t h e

M adra s p a p e r s o n e b e i ng : Old boo t s old boo t s !

,
‘
,

A pp l y t o t h e C olon e l com manding N I S e c u n d e r a . .

,

bad .
’
Th i s havi ng no e ffe c t o n t h e C olon e l t h e ,

com p any co mmand e r t hough t h e coul d p lay o t h e r

t ri ck s wi t h e qual im p un i t y so h e r e fu se d t o p a y h i s
,

s ub s cri t io n
p t o t h e billiard fund t o wh ich h e h a d
,

b e long e d for ov e r t w e n t y y e ar s and accom p an i e d h i s

,

r e fu sal by w ri t i ng t ha t t h e C olon e l had no mor e righ t

 A C O N S I DE RA T E G E N E RAL 51

to l e vy t h i s t a x u p o n h i m t han h e had t o p u t h i s
hand i n t o h i s p ock e t and p ic k i t T h e A dj u t a n t
.

w a s s e n t t o h i m w i t h a wri t t e n o rd e r t o a t t e nd t h e
’
co m mand i ng offi c e r s quar t e r s a t o nc e and t h e n i n , ,

p r e s e nc e of t h e M aj o r t h e C ol on e l gav e h i m s uch a
,

l e c t u r e t ha t h e l e ft i n a v e ry h u mbl e s t a t e app l i e d ,

’
for si x mon t h s l e av e o n u rg e n t p riva t e affai r s an d ,

n e v e r j o i n e d u s agai n Th rough fam il y i n t e re s t h e

.

w a s p i t chfo rk e d i n t o s o m e s t aff e m p loy wh e r e h e ,

could do l i t t l e h arm W e w e r e w e ll rid of h i m and

.
,

t h e t on e of t h e cor p s i m p rov e d day by day .

I had b e e n r e p or t e d duly qual ifi e d and had j u s t ,

fall e n i n w i t h t h e r e gim e n t wh e n o ur C o mmand e r ,

i n C h i e f cam e u p t o i n sp e c t t h e t roo p s
-
I n o pe n .

i ng ou t t o quar t e r di st anc e colum n I did n o t c a l c u

-
,

la t e t h e di s t anc e e xac t l y and i n wh e e l i ng i n t o l in e

,

t h e r e woul d hav e b e e n a g a p had n o t t w o of t h e

r e ar rank m e n p rom p t l y s t e p p e d t o t h e fron t I t w a s .

so w e ll do n e I d id n o t t h i n k anyon e had no t ic e d t h e
,

e rror ; b u t t h e ol d ch i e f who w a s a P e n i n sular and

,

‘
Wa t e rloo v e t e ran gallo p e d u p a t onc e and s ai d : I t
, ,

wo n t do young fe llow ; I h av e don e t ha t t rick t o o

’

oft e n my s e lf t o b e d e c e i v e d ‘
M ark t ho s e m e n fo r
.
’

e x t ra drill ! t hu nd e r e d o u t our C ol on e l
’
D o no t h i ng
.

’ ‘
of t h e ki nd s aid t h e ki n d old G e n e ral ; t h e y w e r e
,

q ui t e righ t t o t r
y and s av e t h e i r o ffi cer .

A v e ry sa d occu rr e nc e t oo k p lac e s oo n aft e r I

j oin e d T h e A dj u t an t o f t h e 3 r d M adra s C aval ry w a s
.

s ho t d e ad wh il s t a t di n n e r w i t h h i s yo u ng w i fe H is .

bac k w a s t o ward s t h e doo r wh ich w a s aj ar t o allow t h e

,

s e rvan t s t o bri ng i n t h e di s h e s ; h i s wi fe w a s s e a t e d

o pp o s i t e t o h i m ; sh e h e ard a r e p or t and sa w h e r ,
5 2 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA
h u sband fall forward H e w a s d e ad — sho t t hrough.

t h e back A t roo p e r w a s t ri e d for t h e offe nc e and

.
,

foun d gu il t y ; b u t t h e r e w e re gre a t doub t s a s t o

wh e t h e r h e w a s t h e r e al cul p ri t al t hough no doub t ,

h e w a s i n t h e s wi m an d kn e w all abou t i t s o h e w a s ,

n o t e x e cu t e d b u t t ran sp or t e d wh ich w a s t o h i m far

, ,

wors e t han d e a t h B e yo nd b e i ng s om e w h a t s t ric t

.
,

t h e r e w a s no t h i ng agai n s t t h e offi c e r and i t h a s e v e r ,

b e e n a p uzzl e why t h e da st ardly cri m e w a s com m i t t e d .

T h e r e w a s m uch sp or t t o b e had i n t ho s e day s i n

t h e N i zam s dom i n ion s and I l e arn t t o s hoo t fai rly
’

, ,

and t o h ol d m y o wn acro ss coun t ry O nc e a y e ar t h e .

gre a t h or se raci ng m e e t t ook p lac e a t M ol e A lly T h e .

s a t urnal ia la s t e d a w e e k b u t t h e rac e s w e r e only o n,

al t e rna t e day s A w e e k b e for e t h e m e e t t h e p lai n

.
,

round t h e cour s e would b e cov e r e d wi t h t e n t s of al l

s i z e s — t h e mod e s t b i c h o b a of t h e s ubal t e rn t h e m e ss ,

t e n t s o f t h e d iffe r e n t r e gi m e n t s and t h e go rg e ou s and ,

p ala t ial s t ruc t ur e s e r e c t e d for t h e R e s id e n t t h e P rim e ,

M i n i s t e r and o t h e r na t iv e no t abili t i e s from t h e c i t y

, .

T h e s c e n e wh il s t i t la st e d w a s m o s t gay and e nj oy
, ,

abl e T h e Pri nc e s and t h e offi c e r s of t h e I rr e gular

.

C aval ry v i e d w i t h o n e ano t h e r i n s um p t uou s array and ,

e v e n t h e y g rand a s t h e y w e r e w e r e p u t s om e wha t i n t o
, ,

t h e s h ad e by t h e nau t ch gi rl s who a pp e ar e d i n p ubl i c-

,

‘
As a rul e t h e y n e v e r l e ft t h e
’
for t ha t occa s i on o nly .
,

c i t y M any o f t h e m w e r e t h e favouri t e s of t h e rich

.

nobl e s and w e r e t h e m se l v e s v e ry w e al t hy co v e r e d
, ,

wi t h j e w e l s wo r t h many t hou sand s o f p ound s T h e se .

girl s alon e w e r e wor t h goi ng many m il e s t o s e e .

Y oung i n y e ars p r e t t y p e rfe c t i n s ha p e t h e y a ll

, , ,

b e long e d t o o n e p rofe ss ion wh ich i n t h e E a st i s n o t ,

 S O ME NO T E D S PO R T S ME N 53

h e ld i n abom i na t io n a s i t i s i n t h e W e st M any of .

t h e s e g i rl s w e r e v e ry fai r ; t h e y n e v e r v e n t ur e d i n t o

t h e s u n e xc e p t i n e nclo s e d alanqu i n t h y t ak
p s e e as

much car e o f t h e i r com p l e x ion s a s many a C our t

b e au t y and a s for t h e i r figur e s t h e i r e qual i s n o t t o
, ,

b e fou n d i n E u ro p e Th e y r e se mbl e l ivi ng Gala t e a s

.
,

as e rfe c t a s any of t h e fi n e s t r e r e s e n t a t io n s of V e nu s
p p
i n G r e e k s t a t uary .

O n e of t h e m o st no t e d hor se s of t ho se day s w a s
X L origi nally bough t by C h ild of my cor p s fo r a
.
,

m e r e s ong ; b u t C h ild w a s no rid e r and t h e h or se a ,

v e ry viol e n t o n e ; h e ran away w i t h h i s ri d e r o n e day

ov e r t h e M aidan and B u c k se e B of t h e 4o t h a raci ng
, .
, ,

m an no t ici ng wha t a s t rid e t h e h or se had offe r e d

, ,

5 00 ru p e e s for h i m wh ich h
,
i s own e r gladly acc e
p t ed .

H e w a s p u t i n t o t rai n i ng and for t w o o r t h r e e y e ar s

,

h e wo n all t h e p ri nc i p al rac e s and p u t many t hou s and s

of ru p e e s i n t o t h e p ock e t s of t h e l ucky p u rcha s e r .

T h e t w o b e s t j ock e y s w e r e M aj or H ugh e s of t h e ,

4 7t h N a t iv e I n fan t ry and C a p t ai n Ph ill i p s of t h e

, ,

3 r d M adra s C aval ry T h e r e w a
. s n o t mu ch t o choo s e

b e t w e e n t h e m b u t o n t h e whol e I t h in k H ugh e s wo n
,

mor e rac e s ; h e w a s a k e e n s p or t sman and i s s aid t o ,

hav e kill e d fi v e hu ndr e d t ig e r s ; b u t how far t hat i s

t ru e I do n o t know W h e n e v e r h e w a s off du t y h e
.

donn e d a s carl e t coa t and wi t h h i s dog s hu n t e d e i t h e r

,

a fox or a j ackal .

At t i m e s cag e d l e o p ard s an d n o w and t h e n a b e ar

, ,

would b e l e t loo se o n M ol e A lly and b e S p e ar e d fro m ,

h or s e back I t w a s o n o n e o f t h e s e occa s ion s many

.
,

y e ars aft e r t h e t i m e I am alludi ng t o t ha t N igh t i ngal e ,

m e t wi t h h i s d e a t h H e had j u st sp e ar e d a l e o p ard
.
,
54 RE M I N I SCE N C ES OF I NDI A
wa s se en t o r e e l and fall off h is h or se an d w a s p ic k e d ,

u
p d e ad o f h e ar t di s e a se . A sa d e ndi ng for a man
who had brav e d d e a t h i n e v e ry sha p e fo r y e ars who ,

had s e rv e d wi t h di s t i nc t io n t h roughou t t h e M u t i ny i n
C e n t ral I nd ia had kill e d s cor e s of t ig e r s sp e ar e d
, ,

se v e ral t hou s an d s of hog s and hu ndr e d s of b e ar s and ,

w a s c e r t ai nly an accom p l i s h e d s p or t s man and s oldi e r .

T h e r e w a s n o t much gambl i ng i n t ho se day s .

T h e r e w a s a r e t i r e d M aj or who could t u rn u p t h e
,

k i n g a t écar t é wh e n e v e r h e l i k e d and b e l ong e d t o a

,

frat e rn i t y of p rofe ss io nal s harp e r s and gambl e r s H e .

w a s w e ll known and g e n e rally avo id e d

,
B u t t h e son .

of a grand e e who had wo n s o m e

,
ru p e e s a t a
—
rac e m e e t i ng and had an id e a h e could p lay card s
, ,

fool i shl y chall e ng e d t h i s g e n t l e man w h o d e cl in e d a t

,

fi rs t a s h e s aid h e had l e arn e d t h e gam e i n F ranc e

, ,

and w a s p robably t o o s t rong a p lay e r ; b u t h i s

o pp o n e n t t h e r e on b e cam e doubly p r e ss i ng s o t h e ,

M aj or chuckl i ng i nwardl y co n se n t e d T h e y p lay e d

, , .

fo r h igh s t ak e s and a t firs t t h e young s t e r k e p t

,

win n ing ; t h e s t ak e s w e r e d oubl e d and t r e bl e d and , ,

a s m igh t hav e b e e n e x e c t e d t h e r e s ul t w a s t ha t h e
p ,

n ot only lo s t all h i s w i n n i ng s by rac i ng b u t a v e ry ,

larg e s u m b e s id e s wh i ch h is fa t h e r had t o p a y
, .

I sp e n t t w o or t h r e e y e ars v e ry p l e a s an t ly i n S e c u n
d e r a b a d and t h e n my r e g im e n t w a s ord e r e d t o a s ing l e
,

s t a t io n i n t h e N o r t h e rn D i v i s io n W e march e d by wi ng s ;
.

I w a s i n t h e l e ft b u t accom p an i e d t h e righ t a s far a s

,

O o p al I w a s ridi ng a gr e a t bru t e of a ho rs e I had

.

la t e ly bough t fro m an o f fi c e r S e e i ng s o m e an t e lo p e s
.
,

I p u t h i m aft e r t h e m ; h e p i t ch e d o n h i s h e a d t h r e w ,

m e s om e di s t anc e di s loca t e d m y righ t arm and a t t h e

, ,
 OU R N E W G E N E RAL 55

s am e t im e c u t bo t h kn e e s badly and I w a s glad t o ,

s e nd h i m t o an auc t ion and se l l h i m fo r a fe w ru e e s

p .

’
I ob t ai n e d t h r e e mon t h s l e av e o n S ic k c e r t ifica t e and ,

w a s l e ft b e h i nd As s oon a s I r e cov e r e d t h e u se of my
.

arm I l e ft S e cu nd e rabad and wand e r e d abou t t h e

, ,

cou n t ry s hoo t i ng and hu n t i ng I had t h re e hor s e s and

.

a M ah ra t t a p ony an d a good ba t t e ry of gu n s and ri fl e s ,

and i f e v e r t h e r e w a s a man madly fond of sp or t i t

wa s I . I t rav e ll e d l e i s ur e l y and g o t t o S a m u l c o t t a h a
day o r t w o b e for e t h e e x p i ra t io n of my l e av e D uri ng .

t h e n e x t t w o y e ar s I s p e n t a good d e al O f my t i m e

o n d e t ach m e n t du t y a t Co n d a p ill y I l ik e d t h e l i fe .

and i t s i nd e p e nd e nc e I t w a s ra t h e r s ol i t ary i t i s t ru e
.
,

b u t wh e n t h e w e a t h e r did n o t p e rm i t of m y goi ng o u t
h u n t i ng and s hoo t i ng I fou nd am p l e s olac e i n r e adi ng
,

and d raw i ng I had s om e cap i t al p ig st icki ng t oo a s

.
-
, ,

w il l b e r e la t e d fur t h e r on I g o t o n w e ll wi t h my
.

b ro t h e r offi c e rs and fl a t t e r my se l f I w a s ra t h e r a
,

favou ri t e wi t h our old C olon e l .

E arly i n 1 8 5 3 a n e w C om mand e r i n C h i e f arri v e d - -

.

H e had known m y gr e a t u ncl e an d w a s i n t i ma t e wi t h

-

L o rd R agl an a t who se r e qu e s t h e p rom i se d t o d o

,

wha t h e could for my advanc e m e n t i n t h e s e rvic e .

S oon aft e r h is arri val I g o t a l e t t e r from h i s m il i t ary

s e cr e t ary,
a s ki ng i n wha t way h is E xc e ll e ncy coul d
s e rv e me . I had o nl y p a sse d i n t h e v e rnacular t o
qual i fy for holding a com p any b u t had n e gl e c t e d t o ,

a ss t h e h igh e r e xam i na t ion wh ich qual ifi e d fo r s t aff e m

p
p loym e n t . I n fac t I w a s t h e gr e a t e st duffe r p o ss ibl e
,

i n l e arn i ng lang u ag e s and al t h ough a s a ch ild I

,

b e l i e v e I s p ok e t h r e e dial e c t s a s w e ll a s any na t iv e I ,

n e v e r could ma s t e r t h e m agai n aft e r I r e t u rn e d

56 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF IND IA
to I ndia A l t hough unq u al ifi e d for t h e g e n e ra l s t aff
.
,

I w a s e l igibl e fo r e m p loym e n t w i t h t h e S ap p e rs and

M i n e r s who se h e adquar t e r s w e r e g e n e rally a t M e rcara
, ,

a no t e d p lac e for big gam e b u t t h e wh ol e r e gi m e n t

,

w a s a t t ha t t i m e e m p loy e d i n B u rma S o I wro t e back .

t hanki ng h i s E xc e ll e ncy an d a s k e d t o b e a oi n t e d t o
,
pp
t h e S a p p e r s an d M i n e r s a n d w a s dul y gaz e t t e d o n
,

M arch 3 1 1 8 5 3 B u t I had t o r e mai n a t my p o s t

, .

un t il r e l i e v e d ; t h e n t h e o nly st e am e r p lyi ng along

t h e coa st t h e H a g /i L i n dsay brok e down
, ,
and I w a s ,

t old t o fi nd my way ac ro s s t o R angoo n t h e b e s t way I

could I s e n t off a l e t t e r t o a fri e nd a t C ocanada t o

.

know i f t h e r e w a s any v e sse l l e av ing for C al cu t t a and ,

g ot back a r e ly t o go a t on c e
p a s a sh i
p,
would b e

l e avi ng i n a fe w day s I d ak e d t h e re o n ly t o fi n d t ha t
.
,

t h e d e s t i na t ion of t h e v e ss e l w a s chang e d an d t h a t a ,

s choon e r t h e Z af r a P a n e a /z
,
-
woul d s t ar t i n a day or
,

t w o for Pondich e rry t ou ch ing a t M adra s

,
B e s id e s .

my se lf t h e r e w e r e t h r e e o t h e r p a sse ng e r s viz
, ,

C olon e l C lark e o f m y cor p s who had b e e n a pp oi n t e d

, ,

B rigad i e r a t A d e n D e n t of t h e I i t h going hom e on

, ,

furlough ; and Tyrr e ll o f t h e i 8 t h T h e s ki pp e r agr e e d

,
.

t o land u s a t M adra s fo r 1 5 0 ru p e e s e ach and s aid h e ,

t hough t w e s hould g e t t h e r e i n t h r e e day s a t t h e mo s t .

S o w e p ai d our mon e y and e mbark e d b u t n o s oon e r ,

h ad w e s t ar t e d t han t h e s ou t h w e s t m on s oon com -

m e n c e d and w e had t o t ack agai n s t i t

,
At t h e e x p i ra .

t io n of fift e e n day s w e w e r e app ar e n t ly no n e ar e r t o

our d e s t i na t ion t han wh e n w e l e ft W e w e r e h e ar t il y .

s i ck of t h e v e s se l ; all t h e l iv e s t ock b e e r and w in e ,

w e r e e x p e nd e d ; sal t j u nk w e d id n o t adm i r e an d al l ,

w e r e anx iou s t o g e t t o t h e j ou rn e y s e n d I a s k e d t h e ’
.
58 R E M I N I SC E N CES OF I N DIA

two y e ars I w a s ac t i v e l y e ngag e d on t h e I r r a w a d ie

s id e b e cau s e L ord D alhou s i e had d e clar e d t ha t t h e war
,

w a s t o c e a s e o n J u n e 30 aft e r wh ich all B urm e s e fou nd

,

w i t h arm s i n t h e i r hand s w e r e t o b e t r e a t e d a s D acoi t s

T h i s w a s a s op t o t h e p e ac e a t —
.

‘ ’
any p ri c e p ar t y a t
- -

ho m e b u t t h e war con t inu e d for full y t w o y e ar s more

,
.

I t did n o t l e sse n ou r ac t ion agai n s t t h e e n e my or p u t ,

a s t o p t o t h e i r s t ruggl e agai n s t u s and only d e p riv e d a

,

fe w o f t h e m e dal and ba t t a who had e arn e d t h e m

b e t t e r t han many of t ho s e who g o t t h e m .

I r e c e iv e d an ord e r t o e mbark o n t h e Te a z e r
W h e n h o s t ili t i e s brok e o u t w i t h t h e C ou r t of A va t h i s ,

v e sse l had b e e n offe r e d t o o ur Gov e rnm e n t for sal e fo r

ru p e e s b u t i t w a s d e cl i n e d and t h e v e sse l w a s
, ,

char t e r e d by t h e mon t h and I w a s a ss u r e d by o n e of

,

t h e own e rs aft e rward s t ha t by t h e t i m e h e r s e rvi c e s

w e r e d i sp e n se d wi t h t h e own e r s had cl e ar e d
ru p e e s and s t ill had t h e v e sse l i n han d
, .

T h e d e t ach m e n t s for B u rma co n s i s t e d p ri nci p ally of

ar t ill e rym e n t o r e p lac e t ho se who had di e d o r b e e n
kill e d i n ac t io n T h e offic e r s a t t h e M ou n t t ook t ha t
.

o pp or t u n i t y of g e t t ing rid o f all t h e wor s t of t h e bad

charac t e r s and a mor e S hady l o t t han t ho s e who
,

p arad e d for e mbarka t ion w e r e I b e l i

, e v e n e v e r se e n,
.

E v e ry man w a s dru nk and a di sgrac e t o t h e v e ry

,

nam e of a s ol di e r .

As I had n o t b e e n ap p oi n t e d t o do du t y wi t h t h e
t roo p s cro ss ing ov e r I did n o t s e e t h e n e e d of app e ar
,

i ng i n u n iform e s p e c iall y a s t h e day w a s v e ry rough

, ,

an d t h e s urf mou n t ai n s h igh and w e w e r e s ur e of a

,

ducking I wai t e d o n t h e b e ach un t il I could fi nd

.

roo m i n s om e boa t T h e s t aff offic e r wh o had t o s e e

.
 I SA I L FOR RA NGOO N 59

t o th e e mbarka t io n of t h e t roo ps w a s n o t i n t h e s w e e t e s t
of t e m p e rs— s mall blam e t o h i m — for t h e b e haviour
and app e aranc e of t h e m e n would hav e dri v e n an ang e l
wild I t w a s no u s e h i s s w e ari ng a t t h e drun k e n c re w
.
,

and p e rc e i vi ng m e h e a s k e d g r u ffly wha t I w a s do ing

,

t h e re . I t old h i m I w a s goi ng acro ss i n t h e Te a z e r .

‘ ’
Why a r e yo u n o t i n u n i form ? h e t hund e r e d I .

r e p l i e d t ha t I w a s n o t a p p o i n t e d t o do du t y w i t h t h e
t roo p s b u t w a s cro s s ing ov e r a s a p a ss e ng e r t o j oi n
,

t h e S a pp e r s H e w a s b e gi nn ing t o v e n t h i s wra t h o n
.

m e wh e n t h e r e w a s a fr e s h ou t br e ak o n t h e p ar t o f t h e
,

gu n n e rs and h e ru s h e d off t o c ur se t h e m and t h e i r

,

o ffi c e r s and I se iz e d t h e o pp o r t u n i t y t o j um p i n t o a
,

boa t and t o g e t o n board s h i p w i t hou t p rolonging my

i n t e rvi e w wi t h t h e i ra t e offi cial J oh n son (bro t h e r of .

S i r W J oh n so n a C anadian an d an old s chool fe llow of

.
,

m i n e ) t w o o t h e r offi c e rs and t w o m e dical offic e rs

, ,

form e d t h e p ar t y o n board W e s t ar t e d abou t m id .

n igh t and e arly i n t h e m orn i ng a hal f nak e d black

,
-

na t iv e cam e i n t o t h e s aloo n and annou nc e d h i m se l f a s

t h e s ki pp e r ! O n s hor e h e would hav e b e e n t ak e n fo r
a com mon cool i e and w e w e r e a st on i sh e d a t h i s a pp e ar
,

anc e ; b u t wh e n w e cam e t o know h i m b e t t e r w e fou nd ,

h e w a s n o t a bad fe llow a t all a ca p abl e offic e r and , ,

k e p t a good and l i b e ral t abl e .

A fe w day s aft e r w e l e ft t h e anchorag e chol e ra

a pp e ar e d an board W e lo s t many o f t h e c r e w s om e
.
,

o f t h e ar t ill e rym e n and s e v e ral of t h e E u ra s ian cl e rk s

,
.

O ur fi rs t ma t e a v e ry p ow e rful H ighland e r i n t h e
,

p ri m e of l i fe h ad b e,e n o n d e ck n e arly for t y e igh t hour s -

,

d r e nch e d t o t h e s ki n t h e whol e t i m e fo r w e w e r e ,

caugh t i n a cyclon e a s w e ll and b e ing fagg e d o u t , , ,

60 RE M I N I S C E N CES OF I N DI A

a s k e d p e rm i ss ion t o go t o h i s b e r t h wh ich w a s a t on c e ,

gran t e d B u t t h e p oor fe llow n e v e r l e ft i t al iv e a s h e

.
,

d i e d of chol e ra b e for e d ayb r e ak and w a s buri e d a t s e a .

N o s oon e r h ad w e S hak e n o ff t h e e p id e m ic and g o t ri d

of t h e cyclon e t han a t e rrific s t o rm ov e r t ook u s off t h e
A n d a m a n s and s om e s e v e n o r e igh t of t h e H or s e
,

A r t ill e ry h ors e s wor t h 70 0 ru p e e s e ach w e r e knoc k e d

, ,

abou t t h e d e ck s wh e r e t h e y had b e e n p i ck e t e d w i t h
, ,

o u t e v e n a box t o h ol d t h e m and w e r e s o d amag e d

,

t ha t w e had t o s hoo t t h r e e and t h row t h e m ov e rboard .

T h e o t h e rs w e r e u se l e ss for army p ur p o se s and w e r e ,

’
s old off a s ca st e r s s hor t l y aft e rward s Who e v e r .

sh i ed t ho se val uabl hor ough t t hav e b e e n

pp e s e s o

s e v e r e ly
p u n i sh e d T h e m on
. s oo n w a s w e ll on and ,

any fool ough t t o hav e k nown t h e w e a t h e r w e m u s t

e ncou n t e r i n cro ss ing t h e bay e t n o t a hor s e box had
y
-
,

b e e n p rov id e d .

I t w a s a mo s t u nfo r t una t e voyag e al t og e t h e r The .

day w e e n t e r e d t h e m ou t h of t h e R angoo n branch o f

t h e gr e a t I r r a w a di e R i v e r t h e s t r e am w a s run n i ng l ik e
,

a s luic e t h e p e riodical fr e sh e s b e i ng w e ll on and j u s t

, ,

a t dark t h e r e w a s a gr e a t hu bbu b : t h e gu n n e rs had

brok e n i n t o t h e S h i p s s t or e s and w e r e v e ry drun k and
’

rio t ou s W e had t o go down arm e d w i t h hand s p i k e s

.
,

and t o knock dow n and p u t i n i ron s t h e gr e a t e r p ar t o f

th e m e n Wh il s t t h i s t umul t w a s go i ng o n b e low a
.
,

cry aro se M an ov e rboard " T h e nigh t w a s a s dark

,

as i t ch t h e m an w a s bo rn e s wi ft l y p a s t by t h e c ur
p ;
r e n t u t t e ring t h e m o st h e ar t re ndi ng cri e s for h e l p
,

t h e s e in a fe w m i nu t e s b e cam e fai n t e r and fai n t e r and ,

a t la st c e a s e d B oa t s had b e e n l ow e r e d a s q u ickly a s
.

o ss ibl e b t t h cr w con i s t e d of L a s car s o nl y and

p , u e e s ,
 ME N OV E R B O ARD 61

i n t h e ab se nc e of E u ro p e an s wh o w e r e all b e low
'

qu e ll i ng t h e m u t i ny t h e r e w a s s o m e d e lay i n g e t t i ng
,

t h e boa t s away A quar t e r o f an hou r aft e r t h e fi rs t

.

cry t h e r e w a s ano t h e r : a se cond g un n e r v e ry dru n k , ,

j um p e d ov e rboard t o sav e h i s comrad e who se cri e s ,

had c e a se d fully t e n m i nu t e s b e for e Th e r e w e r e no .

mor e boa t s t o lau nch and h i s c ri e s al s o c e a s e d T h e

, .

boa t s g o t back wi t h gr e a t d i fficul t y owi ng t o t h e s wift ,

n e ss of t h e cu rr e n t aft e r se arch i ng abou t fo r t w o

,

hours b u t n o t a s ign of e i t h e r man had b e e n s e e n

,
.

T h e riv e r s warm e d wi t h s hark s and all iga t or s and w e ,

all t h ough t t ha t i f t h e m e n had n o t b e e n drown e d ,

t h e y had b e e n carri e d o u t t o se a and d e vour e d N0 .

o t t o s l e e p t ha t n igh t t ill t h e s mall h our s and a t

on e
g ,

dayl igh t wh e n I a pp e ar e d o n d e c k I fou nd t h e anchor

, ,

b e ing w e igh e d . I a sk e d t h e ca p t ai n i f h e did n o t

m e an t o hav e ano t h e r s e arch fo r t h e m e n by dayl igh t
b u t h e p o in t e d t o t h e s t r e am wh ich w a s racing p a s t u s
, ,

and agai n st wh ich our t w o anchor s could hardly hold ,

addi ng Wha t i s t h e u s e ? T h e m e n mu s t hav e b e e n

,

d rown e d o r d e vour e d long ago b u t i f you l ik e t o t ak e

a p ar t y of gun n e r s—I can t S p ar e an y o f t h e L a s car s
’

— you can hav e a boa t and I ll wai t a cou p l e o f hour s

,
’

’
fo r you .

J u s t t h e n C harl i e J oh n s on m y old s chool fe llow a p

, ,

‘
e a re d I a k d h i m i f h would com e ; h e re p l i e d C er
p . s e e ,

t a i n ly w e g o t hol d of fou r of t h e b e s t and mo s t s ob e r

of t h e ar t ill e rym e n and se t o u t o n our a p p ar e n t ly h o p e
,

l e ss t a sk W e had gon e abou t a m il e s k i r t i n g t h e e a s t e rn

.
,

s h or e, wh e n w e sa w a sam p an man n e d by C h i nam e n , ,

com ing t oward s u s and bringi ng w i t h t h e m t h e fir s t o f

,

t h e t w o m e n wh o had gon e ov e rboard A j u n k wa s .

62 REM IN I S CE N C E S OF I NDI A

anchor e d abou t t w o m il e s b e low u s and t h e cr e w , ,

h e ari ng cri e s nobl y p u t o u t i n a boa t and w e r e j u s t i n

, ,

t i m e t o s av e t h e gu n n e r H e u ngra t e ful bru t e ! w a s

.
,

n ot qui t e s ob e r e v e n t h e n an d cu r se d u s and h i s
,

r e s cu e r s mo s t i m p ar t iall y T e ll i ng t h e C e l e s t ial s t o
.

t ak e h im t o t h e T e a z e r w e p ul l e d t oward s t h e righ t
,

ban k w i t h t h e e x p e c t a t io n of fi ndi ng t h e body of t h e

.

s e cond man .

W e h ad go n e p robabl y t hr e e m il e s w h e n a hu man ,

b e i ng ro se o u t of t h e wa t e r clo s e t o t h e bank a s r e d ,

a s a lob s t e r .I t w a s t h e s e cond man T h e t id e had .

t ak e n h i m alo ng and had ca s t h i m a s ho r e b u t h e w a s s o ,

un i s h e d by m o s qu i t o e s t ha t h e had gon e b a c k and laid

p
d own i n t h e wa t e r t o avoid t h e m H e w a s a wr e t ch e d
.

looki ng obj e c t wh e n w e p ick e d h i m u p I had t ak e n a .

fl a s k con t ai n i ng s om e brandy I offe r e d i t t o h i m and

.
,

a good n i p con s id e rabl y r e v iv e d h im H e w a s nak e d .

a s o n t h e day h e w a s born b u t h e t i e d t h e t u rban off

my h a t ro u nd h i s lo i n s l i k e a n igg e r and my coa t ,

a fford e d h i s s h iv e ri ng body s o m e warm t h and I t old ,

h i m t o t ak e an oar and p ull fo r h is l i fe W e g o t back t o .

t h e v e s se l and fou nd t h e s ki pp e r i n ra t h e r a t e m p e r
,

a t b e i ng d e t ai n e d so l o n g b u t wh e n h e sa w t h e man
,

and h e ard ou r e x p lana t io n h e w a s p ac ifi e d A l t ho u gh .

bo t h t h e se m e n e s ca p e d d e a t h fo r a t im e i n a marv e llou s
man n e r I h e ard t ha t t h e y di e d s hor t ly aft e rward s of
,

fe v e r brough t on by i n t e m p e ranc e and e x p o s u r e

, .
 C H A PT E R I V .

B UR M A F OR T Y YE AR S A G O .

Ra n goo n in
53
— V 18
o ya g e p t h e I w a d i eu—P om e Fa m i n e r ra r

S a d i g h t s—D e a t h o f M dd i g d L a t t e —C e l ty o f B m se
—C o st u c t a st oc ka de —Ofl‘i c e ga l l t d oth e wi e
s a an an r ru ur e

n r r s, an an r s

C p e t k igh t on se i c e —B m e e t c t i c s—R a m gh u r I e gu l a
ar -
n s rv ur s a rr r

C a v a l ry D a c oi t s A g i l ou t a ge d a d m u de re d L o d r r n r r

D a l h o u si e G a l la t y o f E g i n e e o ffic e
n r L oot B e n ga l
n r rs

t oop s c om p a e d wi t h t h ose of M a d a s—R e d t a p e i n M a d a s

r r r r

T h e sa p p e s—
-

Am t a sfe e d t o t h e E g i e e de p a t m e n t —A
r r n rr n n r r

b o x i g m a t c h —A B i t i sh soldi e r h a ge d—Att e m pt s t o p rose l yt ize

n r n

se p o ys—
-

I j di c i ou s offic e s
n u r .

R AN G OO N i n 1 8 5 3 w a s abou t a s fil t hy a p lac e a s can

w e ll b e i magi n e d T h e E ngl i s h had h e ld i t fo r abou t
.

a y e ar b u t v e ry l i t t l e had t h e n b e e n don e t o im p rov e i t

,
.

S oon aft e r my arri val I had b e e n di ni ng on board a

v e sse l i n t h e ri v e r and o n r e t urn i ng t o s hor e abou t
,

10 p m . I fou nd a C hinaman fi s h ing i n a drai n wh ich

.
,

had la t e ly b e e n dug I t w a s a brigh t moonl igh t n igh t

. ,

and I wa t ch e d h i s p roc e e ding s wo nd e ri ng wha t h e ,

w a s t ryi ng t o ca t ch To my s urp ri se I sa w h i m haul

.
,

e foul fe e ding gu t t e r ra t s) o n e aft e r

u
p bandicoo t s
(hug -

ano t h e r knock t h e m o n t h e h e ad and st r i ng t h e m

, , ,

much a s a fi sh e rman m igh t do fi sh I a s k e d h i m wha t .

h e w a s going t o do wi t h t h e m H e r e p l i e d h e woul d .

mak e t h e m i n t o p i e s and s e ll t h e m n e x t day adding

, , ,
 64 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I N DI A
‘
T h e y v e ry good e a t i n g ; b u t I ll b e bound h e ’ ’

n e i t h e r p ar t ook of t h e m h i m se l f n or woul d h e i nform

h i s cu s t om e r s of wha t t h e p i e s w e r e mad e The .

C h i n e se and B u rm e se a r e o m n ivorou s ; b u t al t houg h

t h e y will e a t e v e n t h e carca se of a p ony t ha t h a s d i e d
’
of gland e r s o r p u t rid e l e p han t s fl e sh t h e y draw t h e
, ,

l in e a t t h e s e gu t t e r ra t s B u t t h e r e i s a ro d e n t v e ry
.

s i m ilar i n a e aranc call d t h e bamboo r a t wh ich i s

pp e e , ,

a p ur e v e g e t arian and I b e l i e v e i s v e ry good e a t ing

,
.

R angoon i s now o n e of t h e fi n e st c i t i e s i n t h e E a s t ;
t h e st r e e t s a r e broad and laid o u t a t righ t angl e s
,

w i t h o n e ano t h e r a n d p lan t e d wi t h t r e e s
,
T h is wa s .

co m m e nc e d i n 1 8 5 8 wh il s t I w a s o ffi cia t i ng a s E x e c u
,

t iv e E ngi n e e r . K nowi ng no t h i ng of bo t any I had ,

s t ill k e
p t my e y e s o e n and s e e n na t i v e s
p , p l a n t variou s

t r e e s fro m cu t t i ng s e t c ,
s o had an id e a ho w i t ough t
.
,

t o b e don e . T h e F or e s t D e p ar t m e n t offi cial w a s ab s e n t

o n o n e of h i s i n sp e c t i ng t ou r s b u t h is wi fe who r e ally , ,

kn e w a s m uch of t h e s ubj e c t a s I d id and n o m or e , ,

and had no t h i ng t o sa y t o ou r d e p ar t m e n t u se d t o ,

i nunda t e m e w i t h l e t t e r s s ugg e s t i ng t ha t s uch a t r e e

—
, ,

or s om e o t h e r all w i t h long L a t i n nam e s e ndi ng i n

r a i za i or a — s houl d
fl lan d i n s t re e t and
’
g b e
p t e o ne ,

ano t h e r g r a a a iflor a i n t h e n e x t and so o n un t il t h e

’
, ,

corr e sp ond e nc e b e cam e a n ui sanc e I w a s t h e n l iv i ng .

w i t h an E ngin e e r o ffic e r and s how e d h i m t h e lady s ,

’

‘
l e t t e rs. Why s aid h e s h e know s n o t hi ng of wha t
,
’

s h e i s wri t i ng abou t Wai t a b i t and w e w ill p a y h e r

.
,

o ff i n h e r own co i n S o w e co ncoc t e d fe arful word s

’

al l e ndi ng i n g r a zzd zfl or a sayi ng t ha t al t hough s uch . ,

and s uch a t r e e a s sh e p ro po se d would doub t l e ss do

wh e n faci ng e a s t or w e s t i t woul d d ie i f p lan t e d ,
66 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I N DI A
cou n t ry had b e e n l e ft fallow T h e B u rm e se b e i ng an
.
,

im p rov id e n t p e o p l e had St or e d u p no grai n for t im e s

,

of s carci t y and a t e rribl e fam i n e s t ru ck t h e land As

, .

w e s t e am e d s lowly u p t h e riv e r bank s i n t h e v ic in i t y

,

of t own s a n d villag e woul d b e l in e d b y m e n wom e n , ,

and ch ildr e n b e se e ch i ng al m s W e carri e d ric e for

,
.

d i st ribu t ion b u t wha t w a s t h e amou n t aboard among st

,

so m any ? H un dr e d s of ca t t l e could b e s e e n fa t ,

and S l e e k gra zi ng on t h e d e se r t ed fi e ld s ; b u t t h e
,

rigid B uddh i s t s woul d n o t d e p riv e t h e s e an imal s of

t h e i r l i v e s e v e n t o s av e t h e m se l v e s from s t arva t ion We .

had n o s uch com p u nc t ion s and sho t se v e ral and no, ,

s oo n e r w a s l i fe e x t i nc t t han t h e e o l e would ru s h a t
p p
t h e an i mal l ik e w ild b e a st s t e ar i t a s u nd e r and d e vour
, ,

gr e a t p i e c e s of t h e fl e s h —raw !
T h e Gov e rnm e n t gav e gran t s an d al l from t h e C o m, ,

m i ss ion e r down t o t h e s mall e s t dru mm e r boy co n t r i -

,

bu t e d t o a g e n e ral fund t o all e v ia t e t h e wan t s o f t h e '

v e ry p oor Wo rk w a s p rovid e d fo r t h e abl e bod i e d ;

.
-

e t i t w a s n o t an u ncom mon occ u rr e nc e t o h e ar o f t h e

y
bo d i e s of m e n wo m e n and ch ildr e n b e i ng fou nd d e ad
,

o f s t arva t ion round abou t P rom e .

W h e n t h e o rganiz e d forc e s of t h e K i ng r e t i r e d ,

m e n o f i nflu e nc e carri e d on an i n t e rn e ci n e war T he y .

di d n o t a t t e m p t t o m e e t ou r m e n i n t h e fi e l d b u t ,

h ara sse d ou r ou t p o s t s burn t t own s and villag e s and

, ,

mad e i t a s u n p l e a san t a s p o ss ibl e for all who had

s ubm i t t e d to u s t hu s r e nd e ri ng a s e t t l e d form o f
,

gov e rnm e n t and t h e coll e c t io n of t ax e s i m p o ss i bl e .

’
N o man s l i fe w a s wor t h a st raw .

T h e B urm e s e by t h e i r r e l igion a r e forbidd e n t o

, ,

t ak e l i fe t h e y will n o t t r e ad u p on a worm i f t h e y can

 C RUE LT Y OF T H E B URMESE 67

h e l p i t y e t will bu t ch e r m e n wom e n and ch ildr e n w i t h

, , ,

t h e mo s t r e vol t i ng cru e l t i e s Wh il st barrack s w e r e i n

.

cour se of e r e c t ion t h e offic e r s and m e n w e r e bill e t e d

,

i n éy oz mg s a nd zy a t s wh ich w e r e for t u na t e ly v e ry
,

num e rou s i n all t h e s uburb s o f t h e larg e r t own s M any .

a t t e m p t s w e r e mad e t o a ss a ss i na t e t h e E u ro p e an
offic e r s and i t i s a wo nd e r t h e r e w e r e n o t mor e vi c t im s
, .

Poo r M addigan of t h e 8 4t h w a s c u t t o p i e c e s i n h i s
, ,

t e nt. L a t t e r t h e D e p u t y C omm i ss ion e r of Prom e o n e

,
-
,

of t h e brav e st of m e n w a s mu rd e r e d by a p ar t y of m e n
,

dr e sse d u p a s wom e n T h e Q uar t e rma st e r S e rg e an t

.
-

o f t h e H or s e A r t ill e ry sl e e p i ng i n a t e n t n e x t t o m in e
, ,

w a s s t abb e d and bar e ly e s ca p e d wi t h h i s l i fe

, If
t h e se s o call e d D aco i t s could p o unc e down u p o n any
-

nat iv e offi cial a pp oi n t e d by u s t h e y woul d t i e h i m ,

d own bor e hol e s t h rou gh h i m w i t h r e d h o t i ron s and

,
-
,

i n fl ic t o t h e r cru e l t i e s t o o d i sgu s t i ng t o m e n t io n O nc e .

w e w e r e march i ng b e t w e e n P o u n d a y and T a p oo n ,

along a narrow p a t h and cam e u p on a l o t of p oor ,

wr e t ch e s wh o had b e e n crucifi e d i m p al e d ri p p e d o p e n , , ,

and p ar t ially burn t all arrang e d i n a row t h e i r onl y

, ,

c ri m e b e i ng a s u sp i cion t ha t t h e y had giv e n u s s om e

,

i nforma t i on As t h e y had b e e n d e ad s om e t w o day s

.
,

t h e e fflu v i u m w a s dr e adful and t h e s igh t s ick e n i ng ,

for bird s o f p r e y had b e e n a t t h e m an d many of ou r ,

m e n fe ll o u t and vom i t e d .

T h e B urm e s e i ndividually a r e p lucky e nough b u t

, , ,

coll e c t iv e l y t h e y a r e u se l e ss a s t h e y a r e t o o i m p at i e n t
,

t o b e ar con t rol or t o b e di s ci p l in e d and fail t o s u p p or t ,

o n e ano t h e r i n ac t ion E v e ry man figh t s for h im se l f

. ,

and if h e g e t s t h e wors t o f i t run s away b e l i e vi ng , ,

t ha t i t i s b e t t e r t o l iv e t o figh t ano t h e r day .

 68 R E M I N I S CE N CES OF I NDI A
I w a s i n com mand o f t h e S a pp e r s o n an e x p e d i t io n
i n t o t h e i n t e rior W e cam e t o a larg e t ow n w i t h a
.

s t rong st ockad e ro t e c t e d o n t h r e e s id e s by a co n
p ,

s i d e r a b l e ri v e r T h e ford w a s p a ng i ea ; t ha t i s i t had ’
.
,

s i k e s of bamboo dri v e n i n t o i t s b e d
p T h e bridg e .

had b e e n bro k e n down i n t h e c e n t r e T h e st ockad e .

w a s w e ll l oo p hol e d ; a mu s k e t p ro t rud e d o u t of e ach

o p e n ing m uzzl e s of cannon could b e se e n on t h e s al i e n t
,

angl e s and w e t hough t w e w e r e i n for a s t ubborn figh t

,
.

T h e t roo p s w e r e ord e r e d t o s e e k s h e l t e r and t o l i n e ,

t h e fri ng e of j ungl e along t h e riv e r fac e t h e gu n s u n

l i mb e r e d b u t t h e ord e r s w e r e giv e n n o t t o o p e n fi r e
,

u n t il t h e e n e my fi r e d t h e fir s t s ho t T h e word w a s .

giv e n S ap p e r s t o t h e fron t t o r e p ai r bridg e

‘
So .
’

wh il s t all m y com rad e s m o st o f whom had u nd e rgon e

,

t h e ba p t i s m of fi r e many a t i m e i n t h e S u t l e j and

P u n j a u b cam p aign s an d w e r e w e ll u s e d t o b e i ng
,

fi r e d a t w e r e u nd e r s h e l t e r I p oo r d e vil ! j u s t t w e n t y
, , ,

on e havi ng h e ard b u t a fe w s ho t s fir e d i n ang e r had

, ,

t o go o n t o t h e bridg e t o s e e wha t w a s r e qu ir e d t o

r e nd e r i t p a ss abl e and t o r e mai n t h e r e u n t il I could

,

ronounc e i t a s s abl e fo r t h e t roo s

p p p .

T h e mu s k e t s o u t of t h e l oo p hol e s s way e d t o and

fro looki ng a s if t h e y co v e r e d m e e v e ry mov e m e n t
, ,

y e t n o t a S h o t w a s fi re d T h e t e n s io n w a s al mo s t
.

mor e t han I could b e ar B u t for t h e d i sgrac e o f t h e

.

t hi ng I v e rily b e l i e v e I s h ould hav e fairl y c u t and

,

ru n I s hould hav e p r e fe rr e d if t h e e n e my had o p e n e d

.

fi r e ; I could hav e t h e n r e t al ia t e d for I w a s w e l l arm e d

,

b u t t o s t and t h e r e looki ng dow n t ho s e barr e l s and ,

e x e c t i ng e v e ry mom e n t t o b e o t t e d w a s n ot l a an t
p p p e ,s .

T h e S a pp e r s s oon c u t down s om e t r e e s ; w e r e p a i r e d
 WE CA P T URE A F O RT 69

th e a and
la st I w a s abl e t o roar o u t t ha t t h e
at
g p ,

bridg e w a s p a ssabl e onl y t o o p l e a s e d t o t ak e a p ar t i n

,

t h e ru s h t ha t t ook p lac e i n p r e fe r e nc e t o r e mai ni ng an

,

idl e sp e c t a t or W e mad e a da sh a t t h e s t ockad e and

.
,

w e r e clamb e ri ng ov e r t h e wall s wh e n s om e on e call e d ,

o u t t ha t t h e p lac e w a s u nd e rm i n e d and a m om e n t ary ,

au se t ook lac e b u t th e h e s i t a t ion only la t e d for a

p p s

s e cond and t h e n e x t w e w e r e s crambl i ng ov e r and

,

j um p ing i n t o t h e st ockad e wond e ring why t h e e n e my ,

d id n o t fi r e or r e s i st t o fi nd t ha t t h e p lac e w a s d e s e r t e d !
,

Th e r e w a s n o t a l ivi ng cr e a t ur e i n T h e m u s k e t s and .

can non w e r e dumm i e s sl ung by can e s from t h e i n s id e

, ,

and a s e v e ry br e a t h of ai r s way e d t h e m t o and fro i t

, ,

gav e t h e m an a pp e aranc e o f b e i ng p oi n t e d a t u s .

A ft e r i t w a s all ov e r how I w a s chaffe d ! ,

I t w a s t h e wor s t quar t e r of an hour I e v e r s p e n t i n

m y l i fe I hav e oft e n b e e n i n far gr e a t e r dang e r s i nc e
.
,

a s on t ha t occa s io n I w a s a s s afe a s i f I had b e e n i n

b e d ; y e t a s an t ici p a t io n i s far wor s e t han r e al i t y I

, ,

found t ha t i t w a s n o t p l e a san t t o s t and i nac t iv e wi t h i n

fi ft y yard s of a row of m u s k e t s b e l i e v i ng t h e m t o b e
,

load e d and t o b e i n t h e hand s of t h e e n e my Wh i l st

,
.

i n ac t ion you hav e no t i m e t o t h ink and y o u a r e ,

animat e d by a sp i ri t of d e st ruc t ion Pa ss iv e i nac t i on .

i s v e ry diffe r e n t in t h e o n e ca s e you d o n o t t h i nk of
dang e r and i n t h e o t h e r you do
, .

A ft e r t h e occu p a t ion of t h i s p lac e I w a s ord e r e d t o

d e mol i sh t h e old s t ockad e and t o con s t ruc t a n e w o n e
o n mor e s ci e n t ific p ri nci p l e s a t a t urn of t h e riv e r s o ,

a s t o command t h e r e ach e s o n e i t h e r s id e and p r e

v e n t B urm e se war boa t s from a s c e nding o r d e s c e nd ing
-
.

Wh il st con st ruc t i ng t h i s d e fe n s iv e p o st t h e r e u se d t o
70 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF I N DI A
be a mo st abom i nabl e s m e ll wh ich w e p u t down t o ,

t h e na t i v e s u s ing t h e di t ch fo r la t r i n e s ; no fil t h w a s

vi s ibl e b u t t h e s t e nch con t i nu e d I had l e ft a .

s l e nd i d t re e wh ich afford e d a gra t e ful s had e i n

p , ,

s id e t h e s t ockad e I n a st orm a branch of t h i s t r e e

.
,

cov e re d w i t h flow e r s w a s blown down and t h e , ,

odou r from i t s blo ss om s w a s mo s t ov e r p ow e ri ng so ,

i t w a s cond e m n e d and h e wn down ; b u t a s mall

t amari nd t re e o n t h e o
-
o si t e s id e of t h e riv e r wa s
pp
s ar e d
p as , i t w as n o t i n ou r way and t h e se p oy s ,

w e r e v e ry fo nd of i t s a st ri ng e n t fru it A bou t a y e ar .

and a half aft e rward s I agai n v i s i t e d t h e l ocal i t y ( I

w a s t h e n s urv e yi n g fo r a l i n e of road b e t w e e n P rom e

and R angoon wh ich h a s s i nc e b e e n ado p t e d fo r t h e

,

rail road ) I fou nd no s t ockad e on t h e origi nal s i t e b u t

.
,

hal f a m il e i nlan d wh e r e i t w a s of v e ry l i t t l e u s e and

, ,

badly con s t ruc t e d O n vi s i t i ng t h e offi c e r i n com

.

mand I a s k e d why t h e s t ockad e had b e e n mov e d

t o i t s p r e se n t u se l e s s s i t e
‘
Y ou a r e a n ic e fe llow t o
.

con st ruc t a for t ! h e r e p l i e d ; you l e ft a t r e e on t h e

’
‘

fur t h e r ban k o f t h e ri v e r u p wh ich t h e B urm e s e u s e d ,

t o cl im b a t nigh t and fi r e down u p on u s s o w e mov e d ,

‘ ’
t h e s t ockad e Would i t n o t hav e b e e n e as i e r t o c u t
.

down t h e t r e e ? I ask e d ’
‘
B y J ov e ! r e p l i e d my
’

fri e nd s lapp ing h i s t h igh

, we n e v e r t hough t of,
‘

’
t ha t.

B urma w a s con s id e r e d v e ry s ickly i n 1 8 5 2 5 3 T h e .

chang e from a h o t d r y Cl ima t e t o a dam p o n e affe c t e d

,

v e ry many of t h e s e n ior offi c e rs ; com mand s fr e qu e n t ly

fe ll vacan t and had t o b e fill e d u p O n e of t h e fi n e st .

fe llow s i n Prom e w a s C o t t on of t h e 6 7t h B e ngal ,

N a t iv e I n fan t ry who so gr e a t l y d i s t i ngui s h e d h i m se lf

,
 A C OW ARD L Y O FF I CE R 71

aft e rward s i n t h e M u t i ny Wh e n A rm s t rong w h o .

,

com ma n d e d t h e 4 t h S i kh s w a s so se v e r e ly wound e d ,

i n t h e final a t t ack o n M e a Toon s s t rongh old and had ’

t o l e av e o n S ick c e r t ifica t e C o t t on ough t t o hav e ot

,
g
t h e t e m p orary command B u t o n e of ano t h e r co r p s
.
,

who had t h e r e p u t a t io n of b e i ng a drill se rg e an t s or t -

o f o ffic e r w a s p r e fe rr e d and w a s p u t i n a s officia t i ng

, , .

H e w a s ord e r e d wi t h t h e gallan t S i kh s i n t o t h e i n
t e r i o r and t old t o e s t abl i s h s t a t ion s and t o hara s s t h e
,

Burm e se wh e n e v e r h e h e ard of any of t h e m coll e c t i ng

t og e t h e r . M o f t h e 2 n d B e ngal F u s il i e r s a s t rong
.
, , ,

p l ucky fe llow accom,

p an i e d t h e r e gi m e n t S om e how .

h e doub t e d t h e p e r s onal courag e o f h i s C ommandan t ,

and work e d on h i s n e rv e s by t e ll i ng h i m frigh t ful

t al e s of B urm e s e cru e l t y and p l uc k warn i ng h i m t o ,

b e war e of e v e ry bu s h i n a j ungl e a s Burm e s e S harp ,

s hoo t e r s lurk e d t h e r e and ick e d o ff t h e com mandi ng

p
o ffi c e r s Th e y r e ach e d T a p o o n and only a fe w S ho t s
.
,

had b e e n fir e d a t t h e m ; t h i s M accou n t e d for by .

s ay i ng t h e whol e B u rm e se forc e w a s conc e n t ra t e d i n

t h e t e ak for e s t b e t w e e n t ha t p lac e and P o u n d a y The .

wr e t ch e d mar t in e t ra t h e r t han e ncou n t e r t h i s forc e

,

M s i magi n a t ion alon e ) p r e t e n d e d

( wh ich e xi s t e d i n
’
.
,

t o comm i t s ui ci d e and wh e n t h e t roo p s fe ll i n n e x t

,

morning t o mov e on h e w a s found i n h is b e d cov e r e d

,

wi t h blood H e had s t abb e d h im se l f harml e ssly i n

.

many p lac e s wi t h h i s p e nkn ife so t h e se cond i n ,

com mand a ss um e d h is p lac e and se n t h i m back s ick ,

t o Prom e A cour t of i nqu iry w a s h e ld and h e w a s

.
,

di r e c t e d t o se nd i n h is p a p e rs .

D uri ng t h e fir st a t t ack on M e a Toon w h i ch w a s ,

a failur e a c e r t ai n M aj o r w a s i n com mand of t h e

,
72 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I ND IA
t roo p s h e had b e e n p riva t e se cr e t ary t o a L i e u t e nan t
Gov e rnor for many y e ars and had fo rgo t t e n h i s dr i ll
,
.

A p ar t y of blu e j ack e t s w a s t o accom pa ny t h e forc e

-

und e r com mand of a di st ingui sh e d naval offi c e r .

‘
D o you or I t ak e command ? a s k e d t h e gallan t ’

s ailor .
‘
Y o u by all m e an s ! s aid t h e s old i e r
,
’
T he n .
,

follow m e ! s aid t h e sailor and off h e da sh e d

’

, ,

follow e d by h i s m e n H e fe ll i n t o an ambu s cad e w a s

.
,

s ho t down wi t h many o f h i s m e n b u t w a s carri e d off ,

t h e fi e ld by t h e s urvivo r s T h e t roo p s fe ll i n t o co n
.

fu s ion and would I b e l i e v e hav e b e e n ann ih ila t e d

, , ,

had n o t M of t h e 6 7t h t ak e n com mand a n d cov e r e d

.
, ,

t h e r e t r e a t wi t h t h e ri fl e com any of h i s r e gi m e n t
p .

Y ou ng B oil e au b e hav e d gallan t ly b u t w a s kill e d wi t h ,

t w o o t h e r offic e r s i n t h e s e cond a t t ack .

T h e s e cond B urm e s e War o p e n e d t h e e y e s of t h e

au t hori t i e s t o t h e di ffe r e nc e b e t w e e n o rnam e n t al and
p rac t ical s oldi e r s G r e a t t h.ing s w e r e e x e c t e d of t w o
p
o r t h r e e of t h e M adra s offic e r s who had wri t t e n l e arn e d
book s o n t h e a r t of war and w e r e t h e p e t s of t h e,

ladi e s i n t h e drawi ng and ball room s Th e se m e n .

w e re gallan t e nough and t h e ore t ically good m e n b u t ,

t h e y s e ldom brav e d t h e i ncl e m e ncy o f t h e cl ima t e and ,

wh e n call e d u p o n t o figh t fo r t h e i r coun t ry t h e y

s uccu mb e d a t onc e t o t h e h e a t and w e r e s t ruck down ,

by t h e s u n T o qual ify h i m se lf for se rvi c e a man

.
,

from h i s e n t ranc e S houl d accu s t om h im se l f t o t h e

su n, and t o brav e t h e h ard sh i p s a t t e ndan t o n a
cam p aign wh ich com e s e a s i e s t t o t ho se fo nd of w ild
,

s or t
p .D oub t l e ss many d ie b u t t h e fi t t e st s urv iv e ;
,

and our m o st s ucc e ss ful G e n e ral s hav e al way s p r e

fe rr e d sp o r t s m e n t o carp e t kn igh t s a s l e ad e rs of m e n .
74 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

conqu e r b u t t h e B urman had t h e advan t ag e Wh e n

, .

t h e ho r se w a s wi t h i n fi v e o r S i x p ac e s t h e M ongol ian ,

l e v e ll e d h i s gun an d fi r e d W e s a w a b i t of t h e .

’
s owar s t urban fly off and t h e n e x t m om e n t t h e
,

B uddh i s t lay d e ad wi t h a sp e ar — , t hru s t t h rough h i m .

T h e s e fe llow s r e c e i v e d a w e ll m e ri t e d ch e e r o n t h e i r-

r e t urn S e v e ral of ou r m e n had b e e n h i t b y t h e

.

di s charg e for t h e e n e my fir e d a t a di st anc e of s om e

,

t w e n t y p ac e s off ; t h e s e w e r e s oo n a t t e nd e d t o an d ,

w e co n t i nu e d our advanc e t aki ng gr e a t e r p r e cau t io n s

,

i n fu t ur e I n all t h e se e x p e di t ion s t h e S a pp e rs w e r e
.

hard work e d T h e y march e d i n h e avy march i ng

.

o rd e r carryi ng t h e i r e n t r e nch i ng t ool s i n addi t io n t o

,

t h e i r w e a p on s and i t w a s a con s t an t cry of

,
‘
S ap p e rs
t o t h e fro n t ! t o cl e ar t h e road of t r e e s fe ll e d ac ro ss i t
’

t o r e t ard ou r p rogr e ss o r na t ural ob s t ruc t io n s i m p a s

,

s abl e for ar t il l e ry W e had a co u p l e o f gun s of t h e

.

M adra s H or se A r t ill e ry w i t h u s .

Go i ng from R a n goon t o P rom e by s t e am e r w e had ,

s om e adv e n t u r e s on t h e way A bou t 4 p m w e . .

r e ach e d a co n s id e rabl e t own M e a n n o u n g aft e rward s

, ,

t h e h e adquar t e r s of t h e P e gu L igh t I nfan t ry and sa w ,

s om e m e n a t t e m p t i ng t o cruci fy ano t h e r i n t h e v e randa

of a h ou s e along s i d e t h e ri v e r T h e s t e am e r w a s run .

i n t o t h e ban k and m oor e d ; a fe w of u s j um p e d on

shor e and fi r e d a s h o t or t w o an d r e l e a se d t h e man , ,

and t h e n w e ru s h e d aft e r t h e wo ul d — b e mu rd e r e r s I .

do n t t h i nk w e had a S par e car t ridg e b e t w e e n u s

’
.

P r e se n t ly w e cam e u p o n a p agoda wi t h a p ara p e t ,

buil t rou nd i t and full of arm e d m e n and w e p rud e n t ly ,

r e t i r e d ; b u t why t h e B urm e se did n o t s ally for t h and

cut u s t o p i e c e s I do n o t know P robably t h e y .
 M O U N G GO U N G GY E 75

t hough t w e had a forc e a t ou r back s N o t sa t is fi e d .

w i t h ou r d e m on s t ra t i on t h e s ki pp e r m u st n e e d s
,

r e mov e s e v e ral valuabl e b e ll s wh ich w a s co n t rary t o

,

ord e rs Th i s w a s r e p or t e d t o t h e C omm i ss ion e r and

.
,

h e w a s r e mov e d fro m t h e com mand of h i s v e sse l .

F ur t h e r o n n e ar K a i n gai n or s om e such nam e

,
- -
,

a larg e t own wh e r e w e had a d e t ach m e n t — w e found

M oung Gou ng G y e i n forc e ; h e w a s burni ng all t h e
v i llag e s an d had s uch a larg e forc e w i t h h i m t ha t t h e
,

fe w t roo p s w e had t h e r e w e r e al mo s t u s e l e ss As w e .

had a d e t ach m e n t o f H or s e A r t ill e ry o n board w e ,

w e r e a s k e d t o c o o p e ra t e and w e blaz e d i n t o t h e
-
,

j un gl e s righ t and l e ft t h e D acoi t s fi ri ng a t u s from

,

t h e e l e p han t gra ss .O u r command e r and s om e t h re e

o f u s s t ood on t h e p addl e box e s and fir e d S ho t aft e r
-
,

s h o t w i t h ar ms of r e ci s ion a t t h e r e b e l s b u t I onl y
p ,

s a w o n e man h i t .W e fou nd t h e i r fl e e t con s i s t i ng of ,

s e v e ral hu ndr e d boa t s , d e s t roy e d s om e and s e n t t h e ,

r e st adri ft b u t w e h e ard aft e rward s t ha t t h e B urm e se

h ad s wu m off and r e s cu e d t h e gr e a t e r p ar t S om e o f
t h e p oong fii e hou s e s w e r e full o f t h e i n s urg e n t s a n d ,

t h e ar t ill e rym e n mad e s om e v e ry p r e t t y p rac t i c e and ,

s e n t a s h e ll o r t w o i n t o t h e m T h e p e o pl e i n s id e
.

ru sh e d o u t l i k e a s warm of b e e s b u t t h e p roj e c t il e s
,

fail e d t o bur s t and b u t l i t t l e damag e w a s don e

, F i nd .

i ng t h e e n e my t o o nu m e rou s t o b e s a t i s fac t orily d e al t

wi t h ou r s ki p p e r r e c e iv e d ord e r s t o go o ff p o s t ha st e
,
-

t o P rom e for mor e t roo p s B u t b e for e t h e r e i n forc e

.

m e n t s arriv e d Goung G y e had t h e audaci t y t o mak e a

,

n igh t a t t ack o n ou r t roo p s ; h e w a s b e a t e n back wi t h

l o ss b u t w e lo st a fe w m e n
,
B e fore t h e n e w forc e
.

could a c t t h e r e b e l s had d i sa p p e are d l ik e so many

,
76 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I ND I A
—
will t h wi
-
o
’
e -
s
p s, only to r e a pp e ar m il e s and m il e s
away .

D i r e c t l y L a t t e r h e ard ou r n e w s h e g o t i n t o a l a zi ng
(a fa s t B u rm e s e boa t
) and w e n t off t o t h e s c e n e of t h e
,

di s t u rbanc e O n arriv i ng a t M e a n n o u n g h e s e n t for

.

t h e my o oé e o r h e ad man
-
, H e s wagg e r e d u p a c c o m
-
.
,

a n i e d by a num rou r t i nu of arm d m and

p e s e e e e n ,

s t ood e r e c t i n s t e ad of s qua t t i ng down i n accordanc e

,

wi t h B u rm e s e cu s t om s ; fo r no i n fe rior mu s t s t and
’

b e for e a s u p e rior b u t grov e l down a s a s ig n o f ,

hu m il i t y L a t t e r had onl y t h r e e o r fou r p e o n s w i t h

.

h im ; h e did n o t h e s i t a t e a s e cond b u t se iz e d h i s i m ,

e r t i n e n t s ubo rd ina t e t i e d him u t o a o s t of t h e

p p p,

v e randa an d gav e h i m fi ft y la sh e s ; t h e m e n wh o h a d
,

accom p an i e d t h e i r Ch i e f and had doub t l e ss i n t e nd e d ,

t o brav e t h e D e p u t y C om m i s s ion e r s au t hori t y i f n o t

’
-
,

t o m urd e r h i m w e n t dow n o n t h e i r kn e e s b e gg e d fo r
, ,

m e rcy and a t onc e cam e ov e r t o t h e s id e of ord e r and

,

au t hori t y H ad L a t t e r b e e n a l e ss d e t e rm i n e d man
.
,

h e wo u ld hav e b e e n kill e d t h e r e and t h e n a s t h e ,

e o l e of t ha t t own t h i nki ng our p ow e r o n t h e wan e

p p , ,

had S id e d w i t h Goung G y e .

N um e rou s a t t e m p t s had b e e n mad e t o mu rd e r t h i s

fe arl e s s and mo st abl e offi c e r H e w a s m or e dr e ad e d .

a t Av a t han an y o t h e r m e mb e r of t h e C om m i ss ion ,

an d a larg e r e ward w a s offe r e d for h i s h e ad by t h e

K i ng of B urma U n for t u na t e ly h is p ar t ial i t y for t h e
.
,

fai r s e x w a s t ak e n advan t ag e of T h r e e m e n w e r e .

se n t down from U m r a p o o r a t o m urd e r h i m A ft e r .

di n ing a t t h e m e ss of t h e 4 t h S i kh s h e and I w e n t ,

a p ar t of t h e way t og e t h e r ; w e t h e n se p ara t e d H e .

w e n t on t o h i s own h ou se (a éy ou ng ) and I g o t o n t o ,
 MURDE R OF LA TT E R 77

my p ony and rod e o u t t o N a m y a n fi v e m il e s off , ,

wh ich w a s my h e adquar t e rs I t w a s v e ry la t e L a t t e r .

had dru n k a s m uch wi n e a s w a s good for h i m b u t h e ,

w a s p e rfe c t ly s ob e r t hough doub t l e ss a l i t t l e s l e e p y

, .

T h e s e n t ry ov e r h i s quar t e r s had ord e r s n o t t o i n t e r

fe r e wi t h any of t h e fai r s e x v i s i t i ng t h e m T h e .

t h re e m e n dr e ss e d l ik e wom e n had b e e n wai t i ng

, ,

u n d e r t h e p oong é i e hou s e for h i s r e t urn A Jew .

nam e d C oh e n had h e ard t ha t s om e m e n had com e

down t o m urd e r L a t t e r and w e n t t w ic e t o h i s hou se
,

t o warn h im b u t found h e w a s o u t and w a s s e e ki ng

, ,

h i m e l se wh e r e wh e n L a t t e r r e t urn e d hom e and a t

,

o nc e w e n t t o b e d A bou t an hou r aft e r t h e t h r e e

.

d i sgu i s e d m e n w e nt i n t o h i s b e droom ; t h e s e n t ry
h e ard a c ra sh b u t t hough t no t h i ng of i t ; t h e n h e
,

h e ard groan s an d call e d o u t ; r e c e i vi ng no an s w e r h e

, ,

l ift e d t h e cur t ai n and fou nd t h e D e p u t y C omm i ss ion e r -

l e an i ng o n o n e e l bow wi t h t h e blood p ouri ng from

,

h i s t h roa t . H e gav e t h e alarm b u t b e for e a m e dical ,

o ffic e r arriv e d p oor L a t t e r w a s d e ad and t h e mu rd e r e rs

e s ca e d
p .

E v e ry B urman carri e s a s harp — p o i n t e d kn i fe abou t ,

s i x i nch e s long T h i s i s u se d for cu t t i ng u p food or

.
,

for st abbi ng i n brawl s T h e favo uri t e s p o t for a blo w

.
,

and o n e p e rfe c t ly d e adly i s a downward t hru st a t t h e

,

j u nc t ion of t h e t w o collar bon e s bl e e di ng t ak e s p lac e

-

i n t e rnally and t h e p e r s o n d i e s o f s u ffoca t io n i n a fe w

,

s e con d s
.

I w a s o u t onc e s hoo t i ng a t S h oa y d o u n g ; I h e ard a

girl cryi ng and should n o t hav e t hough t any t h i ng of
,

i t had i t n o t con t i nu e d so I mad e m y way t oward s

,

t h e p lac e b u t i t w a s s om e t i m e b e for e I coul d fi nd t h e

,
78 R EM I N I SC E N CES OF I NDIA

m e an s of cro ss i ng o v e r a d e e p m uddy n ullah Wh e n , .

a t la s t I cam e u on t h e r e mai n s of a bridg e I found

p ,

b u t o n e p lank abou t n i n e i nch e s broad s p an n i ng a

, ,

s t r e am s om e hu ndr e d fe e t broad and abou t fi ft y fe e t

d e e p a t ickl i sh p lac e t o c ro ss ov e r and I t ook s om e
, ,

l i t t l e t i m e i n doi ng i t Wh e n I g o t acro ss I fou nd a .

,

p oor gi rl i n t h
, e fir s t bl oom o f womanhood w e l t e ring ,

i n h e r blood T h e bru t e had p robabl y s e e n m e and

.
, ,

fe aring t h e gi rl would giv e i n forma t ion wh ich would

l e ad t o h i s cap t ur e had s t uck h i s kn i fe i n t o t h e fa t al
,

s o t and s h e w a s bar e l y d e ad wh e n I fou nd h e r I

p , .

se arch e d for t ha t m on s t e r e v e rywh e r e and had I com e ,

u p on h i m I t h in k I S houl d hav e sh o t h i m l ik e a mad

dog I gav e i n forma t io n t o t h e n at iv e j udg e b u t t h e
.
,

cul p ri t w a s n e v e r found .

T h e B urm e s e a r e m o s t e x p e r t t h i e v e s Th e y u s e d .

t o s t e al t h e mu sk e t s fro m t h e q u ar t e r guard s of t h e -

E uro p e an r e gim e n t s I w a s o nc e i n a v e ry larg e

.

p o oa g / z i e hou s e : m y b e d w a s i n o n e corn e r ; i n t h e

c e n t r e on a t abl e w a s a l igh t and a se n t ry w a s

, , ,

wal ki ng u p and down T h e s id e s o f t h e hou se l i ft e d .

u
p and down and t h e r e w a s a v e randa
,
s urrou nd e d ,

by a rail i ng t h r e e fe e t h igh t h e fl oor b e i ng fully e igh t

, ,

fe e t off t h e ground I awok e o n e n igh t w i t h a se n se

.

o f dang e r and t hough t s om e on e w a s t ryi ng t o s t e al

,

m y gun s from u nd e r my c o t ; I call e d o u t t o t h e

s e n t ry t o bri ng m e a l igh t b u t h e s aid I t i s no t h ing , , ,

s ah ib only ra t s
,
I l i st e n e d fo r s o m e t i m e ; a s t h e
.
’

noi se w a s n o t r e p e a t e d I g o t o u t o f b e d w i t h a , ,

r e volv e r i n my hand a s c e r t ai n e d t ha t my gun ca se s ,

-

w e r e all righ t and t h e n w e n t i n t o t h e ba t h room

,
-
.

W h il s t t h e r e I h e ard a cra sh and ru s h e d back o nly , ,

 —
B URMESE T I I I E V E S 79

to fi nd t ha t a box wh i ch had b e e n on t h e fl oor a t t h e

,

foo t o f t h e b e d had b e e n dragg e d by s om e on e

,

i n se r t i ng h i s hand u nd e r n e a t h t h e j amb s b u t a s t h e ,

v e randa w a s a foo t l ow e r t han t h e m ai n fl oo r t h e ,

box had s l i pp e d o v e r and cau se d t h e noi s e I wa s .

o u t i n a m om e n t b u t coul d s e e no o n e ; b u t on e xam
, ,

i ma t ion I fou nd t ha t a good E ngl i s h blank e t wh ich

, ,

had b e e n r e s t i ng fold e d u p on t h e l i d o f t h e box had

, , ,

b e e n wal k e d O ff wi t h .

T h e s e fe llow s u se d t o i n se r t t h e i r hand s i n s id e and

drag o u t t h e u n i form s of t h e se p oy s c u t t h e bu t t on s ,

off and wal k off wi t h t h e coa t s

,
M y boy w a s a
.

ca p i t al cook and u se d t o co n v e r t a numb e r of you ng

,

cock s t o cap on s T h e se t h i e v e s had t h e i m p ud e nc e

.

n o t o nly t o s t e al b u t t o kill and p luc k t h e m and o nc e

, ,

t h e y e v e n cook e d s om e a l i t t l e way off .

M e n p r e t e n di ng t o se ll p r e c iou s s t o n e s u se d t o go
abou t t o sp y o u t t h e nak e dn e ss o f t h e land and t h e n ,

rob righ t and l e ft T h e y s t ol e h or s e s from t h e ar t ill e ry

.
,

b u t would n o t t ouch ou r e l e p h an t s wh ich t h e y s aid , , ,

d id n o t u nd e r s t and t h e i r lan g uag e E v e ry o ffi c e r i n

.

S h o a y d o u n g w a s robb e d I l i v e d abou t a cou p l e o f

.

m il e s O ff M y dom i c il e w a s an o p e n zy a i and a s I
.
, ,

had a se n t ry and a S t rong guard I did n o t t h i n k i t ,

w a s p o s s ibl e for anyo n e t o loo t m e fo r t h e se n t ry ,

co u ld s e e righ t t h rough t h e h ou s e y e t I awok e o n e ,

m orn i ng t o fi nd t ha t I had b e e n cl e an e d o u t I lo s t .

’ ’
my grandfa t h e r s p re se n t a t ion s word my fa t h e r s and , ,

m y own and p ro p e r t y wor t h s om e s e v e n or e igh t

,

hu ndre d ru p e e s m ore and n e v e r r e cov e r e d a far t h i ng s

,
’

wor t h nor did I g e t any com p e n sa t ion O n e offic e r

,
.

t hough t h e woul d ca t ch t h e robb e r s H e o st e n t a .

80 R E M I N I SCE N C ES OF I NDI A

t i o u sl y ra p p e d down a box wi t h chai n s (fi r s t fill i ng

st

i t wi t h s t on e s ) a s i f i t con t ai n e d valuabl e s and s ur e

, , ,

e nough , on e n igh t t w o m e n e n t e r e d h i s a p ar t m e n t
and mad e for t h e box H e w a s o u t of h i s b e d i n a .

mom e n t and ru s h e d a t t h e m b u t qu ick a s h e w a s t h e

, , , ,

robb e r s w e r e qu ick e r a s t h e y ran o u t follow e d Cl ose ly ,

by t h e p ro p ri e t or t h e y fl ung back wi t h all t h e i r forc e

,

t h e ma s s iv e t e ak door wh i ch caug h t t h e i r p ur s u e r fairly

,

i n t h e fac e and fl oo r e d h i m R obb e ri e s w e r e so fr e .

qu e n t and t h e d e t e c t ion o f t h e c rim i nal s s o rar e t ha t

, ,

t h e D e p u t y C omm i s s ion e r t old t h e my o oé e i f h e did

- -

n ot
p u t a sto
p t o t h e m h e would b e di s m i ss e d S t ill .
,

n o t a n igh t p a sse d wi t hou t s om e hou se having b e e n

e n t e re d . T h e na t iv e magi s t ra t e dri v e n t o d e sp e ra ,

t io n g o t u p abou t m idnigh t a n d w i t h a cou p l e of

, , ,

p e on s,
t ook u
p h i s
p o s i t io n u nd er a bri d g e I had
con st ruc t e d on t h e n e w road abou t t w o m il e s fro m ,

S h o a y d o u n g and lay i n wai t t h e r e

,
A bou t 4 a m . .

t h e p ar t y h e ard voic e s and sa w s e v e ral m e n com i ng

,

t oward s t h e m wh e n qu i t e cl o se t h e y s t e pp e d o u t and
s ho t a cou p l e d e ad who by t h e m e r e s t chanc e
, , t urn e d ,

o u t t o b e no t e d robb e r s wi t h s t ol e n good s o n t h e m , .

T h e gang t h i nki ng t h e y had b e e n b e t ray e d di sp e r s e d

, , ,

and fo r s om e t i m e t h e r e w e r e no mor e t h e ft s i n t ha t
n e ighbourhood I t w a s l ucky for t h e offi cial t ha t h e
.

s ho t t h e righ t e o le t h e y m igh t hav e b e e n i n noc e n t

p p
t rav e ll e r s .

S o cl e v e r an d audaciou s w e re t h e t h i e v e s a t
Thay e t myo t ha t a cordon of s e n t ri e s had t o b e
,

form e d round t h e s t a t io n a t dark O n e n igh t s om e .

o n e ran amuck ; t h e s e n t ry o n e of t h e 8 t h I rr e gular

,

C aval ry chall e ng e d b u t a s t h e i nd i v i dual s t ill ru sh e d

,
,
82 RE M I N I SC E N C ES OF I N DI A

s om e s t r y c lm i n e p ill s wh ich h e had p r e p ar e d for k ill i ng

p ariah dog s .

T h e R a m g h u rs w e r e r e p lac e d by t h e 8 t h B e ngal
I rr e gular C aval ry com mand e d by R who so di st i n , .
,

u i s h e d h i m se lf a t t h e t aki ng of M o o l t a n T h e y w e re
g .

a v e ry fi n e se t o f m e n and w e r e a s m uch p am p e r e d a s ,

t h e R a m g h u r s had b e e n t h e r e v e rs e nor had t h e y t h e ,

s am e chanc e s of di s t ingu i s h i ng t h e m s e l v e s a s t h e cor s

p
t h e y re l i e v e d T h e y g o t qu i t e o u t of t h e Gov e rnor
.

G e n e ral s good book s by r e fu s ing t o s e rv e long e r i n

’

h i s p e t p rovi nc e wh e n t h e i r t e rm of s e rvic e had

e x i re d and w e r e o rd e r e d t o march back t o B e ngal
p ,

by t h e T o n g o o p road b e for e i t had b e e n hal f com

p l e te d .

L ord D alhou s i e p e rha p s t h e abl e s t man who e v e r ,

rul e d I nd ia could n o t b e ar anyo n e t o di ffe r i n o p i n ion

,

wi t h h im Wh e n h e v i s i t e d Prom e h e a s k e d o u r
.
,

‘
cha p lain wha t h e coul d do for h i m Tak e m e o u t .

’
of t h i s p rovi nc e you r lord sh i p i ncau t iou sl y r e pl i e d
, ,

t h e divi n e Th i s ang e re d h i s l ord sh i p and h e would

.
,

n o t s e ak t o t h e cha lai n agai n

p p H e w a s v e ry fond o f .

M aj or F ra se r R E ou r ch i e f e ngi n e e r and wi t h good

, . .
, ,

r e a s o n for a fi n e r fe llow n e v e r l iv e d Old a s h e w a s

,
.
,

h e look e d old e r owi ng t o a long wh i t e b e ard wh ich h e

,

wor e y e t h e l e d t h e a ssaul t o n t h e Wh i t e H ou se
,

p ick e t a t t h e t aki ng of R angoon wh e n t h e a s saul t i ng ,

p ar t y of t h e 5 I s t t e m p oraril y h e s i t a t e d owi ng t o t h e ,

d e a t h of t h e i r l e ad e r H e and s om e s i x e ngin e e r s .

ru sh e d forward and call ing o n t h e M adra s S a p p e r s t o

, ,

follow t h e m e r e c t e d t h e lad d e rs and t ook t h e p lac e

, ,

by e s calad e b e for e t h e o t h e r t roop s had re cov e re d from

t h e confu s io n i n t o which t h e y had fall e n I r e m e mb e r .
 B URMESE B E LLS 83

h is s ayi ng a t m e ss h e s houl d hav e co n s id e r e d i t an

, ,

i n s ul t had anyon e s e iz e d h i m by h i s lo ng b e ard b u t ,

t ha t wh e n L ord D alhou s i e had d on e s o i n a la t e i n t e r ,

vi e w h e h ad fe l t any t h i ng b u t offe nd e d H e w a s a
,
.

d e ar old man h e cam e t o t h e fron t duri ng t h e M u t i ny ,

—
and d i e d Ac t ing L i e u t e nan t Gov e rno r o f t h e N or t h
W e s t Prov in c e s a p o st n e v e r b e for e o r s i nc e h e ld by
,

a m il i t ary man .

I do n t know h ow i t i s b u t m o st of t h e old I ndian

’

E ngi n e e r s w e r e fi n e fe ll ow s C un ni ngham who s u c .

,

c e e d e d F ra se r w a s al mo s t a s much l ik e d a s h i s p r e
,

d e c e ss or W Tr e vo r ough t t o hav e had t h e V i c t or i a

. .

C ro ss for B u rma o nly i t had n o t t h e n b e e n e st abl i sh e d

, ,

b u t h e aft e rward s g o t i t for B h o o t a n A ll t h e e ng i .

n e e r s w e r e w e ll t o t h e fron t i n e v e ry figh t O pp o s i t e .

t o Prom e t h e h ill s a r e s e v e n or e igh t h undr e d fe e t

,

h igh O n o n e t h e re w e r e se v e ral s u p e rb b e ll s o n e of
.
,

wh ich S i r J C ou r l e ad e r gr e a t ly admi r e d ; b u t t h e
. .
, ,

l oo t i ng of t h e m had b e e n fo rbidd e n by t h e C omm i s

si o n e r a s h e wi s h e d t o conc il ia t e
, t h e pe op l e On e .

e ngi n e e r — I forg e t h i s nam e for t h e mom e n t —who

al s o had an e y e on t ha t b e ll t ook a com p any o f ,

S a pp e r s w i t h h i m i n broad dayl igh t brough t t h e b e ll ,

down p ack e d i t u p and s e n t i t off b e for e any t h ing had

,

b e e n s aid o n t h e s ubj e c t b e cau s e e v e rybody t hough t ,

i t had b e e n t ak e n by t h e G e n e ral and di sp o se d of i t , ,

I h e ard fo r £ 8 0 0 T h e G e n e ral and P h a y r e w e r e

, .

furiou s wh e n t h e y h e ard of i t b u t t h e cul p ri t w a s ,

away and t h e y could n o t bring i t hom e t o h i m F o r

, .

cool audaci t y t ha t b e a t mo s t t h i ng s
,
.

T h e B u rm e se wh e n t h e y build t h e i r p agoda s bu ry
, ,

a l o t of imag e s of Ga n dama j u s t u nd e rn e a t h t h e b e ll
84 RE M I N I SC E N C ES OF I N DI A

p ar.t I n building barra c k s,

w e had t o r e mov e v e ry

man y p agoda s and many E ngi n e e r and S a pp e r offic e rs

,

mad e good haul s ; b u t I who had t h e d e mol i sh i ng of

,

p e rha p s mor e
p agoda s t han any man of my t i m e had ,

v e ry bad luck or t h e S app e r s w e r e t o o sharp for m e

, ,

for al t hough I g o t t hou sand s of s mall i mag e s of t h i n

v e n e e re d s ilv e r and l e ad I on ly g o t o n e of gold wh ich
, ,

m y ag e n t s di sp o se d of for I t h in k 3 0 0 ru p e e s
, , .

W i t h t h e e xc e p t ion of t h e S a p p e r s and H or se
A r t ill e ry t h e forc e o n t h e I r r a w a di e con s i st e d of
,

B e ngal t roo p s Th e r e h a s al way s b e e n a gr e a t d e al

.

of j e alou sy b e t w e e n t h e t roo p s of t h e t w o Pr e s id e nc i e s .

I n t h e e arl i e r p ar t of t h e c e n t ury t h e gr e a t e r p ar t of
t h e figh t i ng fe ll t o t h e coa s t army b u t for v e ry many
,

y e ar s e xc e p t duri n g occa s ional figh t i ng i n p e t t y o u t

,

br e ak s wi t h i n t h e l i m i t s of t h e Pr e s id e ncy and now ,

and t h e n i n C h i na t h e M adra s A rmy sa w l i t t l e or no

,

s e rvic e . W e p l ay e d a t s old i e r s Th e r e w a s t o o much

.

re d ta e
-
p . A j u n ior offic e r ran t h e ri s k of b e i ng
p ut

und e r arr e st i f h e di ffe r e d from h i s se n io r e v e n o n ,

a ma t t e r of w e a t h e r I w a s onc e r e p ri mand e d for

.

ap p e ari ng a t m e ss wi t h my n e ck e rch i e f t i e d onc e

'

i n s t e ad of t wic e round t h e n e ck al t hough s uch b e cam e

,

th e u n iv e rs al cu s t om v e ry s hor t ly aft e rward s J u st .

aft e r t h e C ri m e an war t h e rul e s r e gardi ng i nfan t ry

,

offic e r s w e ari ng mou st ach e s w e r e r e lax e d b e for e t hat

only t h e C aval ry and H o rs e A r t ill e ry w e re e n t i t l e d t o
t he m . O n e day a divi s ional ord e r w a s ci rcula t e d t ha t
i t had b e e n brough t t o t h e no t ic e of t h e G e n e ral
t ha t s om e offic e r s had p e rm i t t e d t ho s e u nd e r t h e m t o

grow t h e obj e c t ionabl e h i r s u t e ornam e n t wh ich w a s ,

con t rary t o G e n e ral O rd e r so and so and di r e c t i ng a

- -
,
86 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF I NDIA

w e r e t all e r and i f dr e ss e d i n u n iform woul d l oo k

,

b e t t e r on p arad e t han t h e S ou t h e rn D iv i s io n m e n wh o ,

w e r e shor t b u t cam e of t h e figh t ing ca s t e s of S ou t h e rn

,

I nd ia .

I t w a s acknowl e dg e d b y all G e n e ral s t ha t t h e M adra s

S a pp e r s and M i n e r s w e r e se cond t o no t roo p s i n I ndia ;
t h e y had don e s p l e nd id s e rv ic e from A fghan down

ward s and from A by s s i n ia and P e r s ia t o C h i na ; t h e y

,

w e r e of t h e p ur e S ou t h e rn figh t i ng ca s t e s B u t t h e .

m e n of t h e N or t h e rn D iv i s ion w e r e a lo ng l e gg e d -

rac e w i t hou t figh t i ng t radi t io n s and mor e fi t t e d t o

, ,

carry p alanqu i n s and t o b e fi s h e rm e n t han s oldi e r s ;

b u t b e ca u se t h e y look e d b e t t e r o n p arad e t h e y w e r e ,

e nl i s t e d fr e e ly and t h e figh t ing ca s t e s l e ft O

,
ut To .

s uch an e x t e n t had t h i s mania sp r e ad t ha t t h e o nly

r e l iabl e t roo p s w e p o ss e sse d vi z t h e S ap p e r s and

, .
,

M i n e r s w e r e v e ry n e arly b e i ng rui n e d ; t h e i r h e ad
,

quar t e r s w e r e m ov e d from M e rkara t o D o w la i s h

warum and t h e long l e gg e d T a l e n g a e nl i st e d B u t
,
-
.

th e new e le me nt w a s n o t found e qual t o t h e old .

T i m e p rov e d t h e u s e l e ss n e ss of t h e n e w r e cru i t s and ,

b e for e v e ry m uch harm had b e e n don e t h e S a pp e rs

w e r e r e m ov e d back t o M y s or e and t h e old cla ss of ,

m e n r e e nl i s t e d -
To Show wha t t h e se s t urdy l i t t l e
.

fe llow s could do wh e n t h e fir s t C h i n e se war brok e o u t

,

t w o com p an i e s of S a p p e r s march e d from M e rkara t o

M adra s s om e t h r e e hun dr e d m il e s i n a w e e k goi ng

, , ,

al mo st day and n igh t I n B urma s om e of t h e com

.

p a n i e s s u ffe r e d t e rri bly M y own com.

p any land e d
1 0 3 s t rong and I t h i nk only t hr e e of t h e o rigi nal s
,

w e n t back al iv e .

I n t h e final advanc e s o n M e a Toon a nullah had ,

 LI FE I N PRO M E 87

to be cro sse d and raft s w e r e b e i ng con st ruc t e d by t h e

,

S ap p e rs ; b u t t h e fi r e from t h e o pp o si t e S id e w a s so
h e avy t ha t t h e E uro p e an S a pp e r se rg e an t d i s con t i nu e d
t h e work J e madar A pp iah st e p p e d t o t h e fron t
.
,

lan t e rn i n hand t e st e d e ach kno t and t hough e x p o se d

, , ,

t o t h e h e avi e st fi r e did n o t d e s i st t ill t h e raft w a s

,

r e ady and t h e n s t e ppe d on s hor e and r e p or t e d all

,

com p l e t e .

I n 1 8 5 3 w e t h e fe w M a d r a ssi e s am id s t a gr e a t
, ,

numb e r of B e n g a l i e s had t o s t and a good d e al of chaff

,

from ou r mor e for t u na t e br e t hr e n ; b u t I l i k e d t h e

B e ngal offic e r s and m e n v e ry m uch I t i s t ru e t ha t .

t h e di s ci p l i n e i n t h e ran k s w a s lax e r t han our s b u t o n ,

se rvic e t h e y had al way s fo u gh t w e ll t hough t h e r e w a s ,

a l i t t l e t oo much ca s t e abou t t h e m e n T h e i r m e sse s .

,

t o o far i n fe rior t o our s i n organ iza t ion k i t p la t e e t c

, , , , .
,

w e r e p l e a san t e r t han our s and mo re l ik e w e ll r e gula t e d

,
-

cl ub s fr e e from undu e r e st rai n t A ll m e t on e qual i t y

, .
,

and I n e v e r sa w b u t on c e and t ha t only wh e n t h e

,

n e c e ss i t y aro se an offi c e r r e buk e ano t h e r a t t h e m e ss

,

t abl e . T h i s w a s a v e ry agr e e abl e chang e from t h e

S t i ff rou t i n e of s im ilar e s t abl i s h m e n t s i n M adra s .

O ur m e ss i n Prom e con s i st e d of t h e E ngi n e e r s ,

S a p p e r s and s t aff offic e r s and a v e ry j olly t i m e w e

, ,

had of i t T h e B e ngal and M adra s A r t ill e ry had a

.

m e ss t o t h e m se lv e s b u t o n se rvic e t h e A r t ill e ry a n d
,

S ap p e r s m e sse d t og e t h e r u nl e ss i nv i t e d t o b e com e
,

honorary m e mb e r s of t h e m e ss of s om e r e gi m e n t ,

wh ich w a s g e n e rall y t h e ca se .

O n variou s e x p e di t ion s i n t o t h e i n t e rior I h a d ,

h e l p e d t o m a p o u t t h e cou n t ry I p a sse d i n s urv e y

.

i n g c ivil and m il i t ary e ngi n e e ri ng and w a s offe r e d an

, ,
88 R E M I N I SC E N C E S OF I NDI A
a pp oi n t m e n t by S i r A r t h ur P h a y r e i n t h e D e par t m e n t
o f Publ ic Work s F o r s om e y e ar s I carri e d o n t h e .

du t i e s of a s a pp e r and al s o of a c iv il e ngi n e e r and a s ,

my du t i e s l e d m e i n t o r e mo t e di s t ric t s and I had al s o ,

t o s u rv e y from P rom e t o R angoo n I b e gan t o d is ,

cov e r t h e wh e r e abou t s o f gam e wh e nc e my car e e r a s ,

a sp or t s man may b e s aid t o hav e comm e nc e d I w a s .

alway s fond of sp or t M y e x p e ri e nc e a s a ch ild may .

hav e s t r e ng t h e n e d a na t ural i ncl i na t io n t ha t way and ,

l iv i ng a s I di d oft e n for mon t h s and mon t h s t og e t h e r

i n t h e j u ngl e s bl e s se d w i t h you t h a good con st i t u t ion
, , ,

and almo s t t o t al i nd e p e nd e nc e I l o s t n o o p p or t un i t i e s ,

of hu n t ing t h e wild b e a st s of t h e E a s t .

I g o t a bad a t t ack o f fe v e r march i ng down t o

R angoon and had t o go t o M o u l m e in for a chang e
,
.

T h e s c e n e ry round t ha t t own i s lov e l y and I e nj oy e d ,

m y mon t h s s t ay t h e r e gr e a t ly At t h e m e ss o n e n igh t
’
.
,

P . o f t h e 3o t h —a fi n e w e l l grown young fe llow

, ,
-

b e gan t o lay down t h e law o n boxi ng mai n t ai n i ng t ha t ,

no s mall m an had a chanc e agai n s t a bigg e r o n e i n

‘
boxing Why . s aid I‘
com e and br e akfa st
, ,

’
wi t h O and my s e l f t o morrow and I ll bring a man
.
-
,

of t h e 2 n d B e ngal F u s il i e r s m uch S ho r t e r t han your ,

s e l f wh o will l ick you i n t o a cock e d h a t i n hal f a n

,

h ou r I a s k e d Paddy C t o com e ov e r ; t h e room

.
’
.

w a s cl e ar e d t h e glov e s p u t o n ,
b u t p oo r P w a s , .

‘
no w h e r e A ll t h e offic e r s of t h e i s t and 2 n d F u s il i e r s
.
’

w e r e e x p e r t box e r s and by con st an t p rac t ic e had b e

,

com e ad e p t s a t t h e nobl e a r t of se l f d e fe nc e I n a fe w -
.

m i nu t e s C had P s h e ad i n Chanc e ry and O and I

. .
’

, .

cri e d w i t h laugh t e r a t t h e un e qual co mba t wh ich w a s ,

cond u c t e d on bo t h s id e s wi t h t h e gr e a t e st good t e m p e r .
96 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF I N DIA
fini sh e d i n t i m e fo r t h e carryi ng o u t of t h e se n t e nc e
of t h e law H e had t o e ngag e I ndian s and E u ro p e an s
.

of t h e A r t ill e ry a t e xorbi t an t ra t e s and t h e n t h e ,

s caffold w a s n o t com p l e t e d t ill 6 a m A hollow .

s quar e w a s fo rm e d ; t h e 2 9 t h fac e d t h e gibb e t t h e ,

t w o s id e s b e i ng form e d by t h e A r t ill e ry S a e r s and

pp , ,

N a t iv e I nfan t ry T h e cond e m n e d man a s t rong

.
, ,

s t urdy fe llow i n t h e ri m e of l if a ar d wi t h h i
p e
pp e e , s

hand s t i e d i n fron t of h i m ; h i s coffi n w a s born e j u s t

ah e ad and t h e Cha p lai n accom p an i e d h im r e adi ng t h e
, ,

p ray e r s for t h e d e ad T h e man . s how e d n e i t h e r fe ar

no r bravado b u t bor e h i m se l f a s a s oldi e r r e ady t o

, ,

m e e t h is d e a t h I a s a S app e r w a s t h e clo se s t t o t h e
.
, ,

p lac e of e x e cu t io n H e w a s march e d round t h e t h r e e

.

s id e s of t h e s quar e ; a s h e cam e i n fron t of h i s own

r e gim e n t se v e ral of t h e m e n and an o ffic e r fain t e d
,
.

Wh e n h e cam e t o t h e s caffold h e a s c e nd e d w i t hou t ,

h e l p ; h e b e gg e d t h e s e rg e an t of t h e guard t o adj u s t
t h e ro p e rou nd h i s n e ck a s h e obj e c t e d t o b e ing
,

t ouch e d by t h e na t iv e s w e e p e r T h e c a p w a s drawn
.

ov e r h is fac e t h e bol t w i t hdrawn and h e fe ll s om e

, ,

s i x fe e t T h e t roo p s w e r e t h e n march e d p a s t t h e d e ad
.

body s t ill s u s p e nd e d and all w a s ov e r I canno t h e l p

, ,
.

t h i nking t ha t how e v e r n e c e ssary an e xam p l e a s a

,

d e t e rr e n t t o o t h e r s may a t t im e s b e und e r t h e p e cul iar ,

circum s t anc e s of t h e ca se h i s l i fe m igh t hav e b e e n

s ar e d
p and
, h i s wi s h t o di e for h i s coun t ry figh t i ng ,

agai n st t h e mu t i n e e r s b e e n gra t ifi e d ,
.

I n t h e day s wh e n t h e E a s t I ndia C om p any had

u nl i mi t e d s way ov e r I ndia no m i ss ionari e s w e r e ,

allow e d i n t o t h e cou n t ry ; b u t w e a r e a m e ddl e som e

p e o p l e and
,
can n e v e r l e t w e ll alon e G radually t h e .
 I N J U D I C I O U S M I SS IO N AR I ES 91

ow e r s of t h e rul i ng body w e r e r e lax e d and mi ss ion

p ,

ari e s adm i t t e d b u t t hough t h e gr e a t e r p ar t of t h e m

, ,

had t h e s e n s e n o t t o a t t e m p t t o i n t e rfe r e w i t h t h e
r e l igio n of our m e rc e nari e s st ill t h e s mall e n d o f t h e
, ,

w e dg e w a s i n t roduc e d T h e old offic e r s w e r e figh t i ng

.

m e n d e vo t e d t o t h e i r p rofe s s ion ; t h e gr e a t e r t h e dar e

,

d e vil t h e mo r e h e w a s wor s h i p p e d by h i s m e n
,
But .

for a fe w y e ar s b e fo r e 1 8 5 7 se v e ral offi c e r s who had ,

e vid e n t ly m i s t ak e n t h e i r voca t ion t ook t o r e ach ing

, p ,

n o t only t o t h e ou t s id e na t iv e s b u t t o t h e i r m e n
, and ,

a fe w w e r e i nj udic iou s e nou g h t o S h ow favou r and

affe c t io n t o a p e rv e r t o r conv e r t wh ich e v e r you
, ,

p l e a s e t o s t yl e t h e r e n e gad e from t h e r e l igion of h i s

fa t h e r s Th i s u n se t t l e d t h e m ind s of t h e h igh ca st e
.
-

B rah m i n an d M u ss ulman s e p oy s a n d l e d t h e m t o
,

b e l i e v e any t h ing s aid t o o ur d e t ri m e n t . H ad t h e

p ro s e ly t i zi ng offic e r s b e e n
p ubl icly di s mi ss e d a s the y
,

ough t t o hav e b e e n confid e nc e m igh t hav e b e e n

,

re st or e d ; b u t wh e n t h e E n fi e l d ri fl e w a s i n t roduc e d ,

wi t h i t s gr e a se d car t ridg e s t h e m e n w e r e only t o o

,

r e ady t o b e l i e v e any t h i ng t h e di saffe c t e d t ol d t h e m

abou t ou r i n t e n t ion s t o d e st roy t h e i r ca st e The .

H i ndoo s w e r e t ol d t h e car t ridg e s w e r e gr e a se d w i t h

M u ss ul man s t ha t p ig s fa t w a s
’

t h e fa t of cow s , th e

b e i ng u s e d ; t h e m e n b e cam e t h e dup e s an d brok e ,

o u t i n r e b e l lio n . Wh e n will t h e s ub se qu e n t horrors

e ve r b e forgo t t e n ? o r how can t h e v iola t ion a n d
mu rd e r of s o many o f ou r cou n t rywom e n and ch ildr e n
e v e r b e e x ia t e d ?
p
 C H A PT E R V .

B UR M E S E L I FE .

Fa il u re of m i si o
s g t h e B m e se —T h e i s c c e a m o g
i
n a r e s a m on ur r u ss n

t h e K a e n s— r M t im o y i a r B m —R e l a t i o of t h e e e s
n n ur a n s x

O ri g i n o f t h B m e
e se — T h ur
e i f d
ee o m f o m c a s t e —r Th e i
r r r

ma nn e c
r s, t om us d h a a c t e i t i c —A om p i
s an C r th e
r s iv e s r n r r

B m e fo d e ss fo c h i ld e —T h e i c ou t sh i p—T h e i p i e t s
ur se n n r r n r r r r s

—R m C a t h ol ic
o an —T h e B ddh i st e l igi o —K e s
nu ns u r n ar n

B u m e se t h e a t i l a d d i g g i l s— T h e Ass m e se —H l f
r r ca s n an c n r a a

b e e ds —T h e K a h e —Fi e s i B m —A a ff y—A ol d i e
r c ns r n ur a n ra s r

p u i
n s h e d f d i g
or h i s d t
o ny
— Si A Ph a y e u Di m a l J e m m y
r r s

—H i s t t m t o f m e —A ga ll t B iga di e —O e f ot h e
.

re a en an r r n o an r

k i d—A dot e s—H o w t h e t wo B ig di e s l e ft T o go—O

n n ec r a r n ur

c h i e f e g i e e — R og u e y o f
n n r u b o di n a t e s — P b l i
r s wo ks r u c r

Ab do m e t o f N a m ya —S i T e o W h e l e
an n n n st o i sh e
r ar v r r a n s

B m ur — anG a l l t y f t h e S we e p —A m d doc t o
‘
an r o a r .

I T isv e ry w e ll t o a t t e m p t t o conv e r t t h e h e a t h e n b u t ,

t h e r e i s p l e n t y of work t o do among t h e u ngodly i n

ou r own coun t ry Why i nvad e a cou n t ry l i k e I nd ia

.
,

which had r e l igion s of i t s own long b e for e t h e dawn of

C h ri st iani t y ? T h e H i ndoo s do wors h i p idol s b u t ,

t h e M u s s ul man s d on t AS for t h e B uddh i s t s t h e ir

’
.
,

r e l igio n i s v e ry s i m ilar t o our s only m uch old e r .

H i m whom w e call C h ri s t t h e y d e s igna t e a s B uddha .

M any of t h e s ayi ng s a t t ribu t e d t o ou r S aviou r i n t h e

N e w T e s t am e n t a r e b u t co p i e s from t h e s ayi ng s of
B uddha wri t t e n dow n i n Pal i se v e n hu ndre d y e ars
,
 94 RE M IN I SC E N CES OF I ND IA
word n e e d e d e x p lana t io n and t ha t h e w a s b e t t e r ,

qual ifi e d t o i n t e rp r e t t h e s ayi ng s of our L ord t han

e i the r He o r H i s di s ci p l e s B com m e nc e d T h e‘
. .
,

m an wh o ha t e t h h i s bro t h e r ha t h comm i t t e d mu rd e r
i n h is h e ar t I forg e t t h e e xac t word s H e t h e n
.
’
.

u t down t h e B ibl e and s aid i n a s anc t i mon iou s and

p , ,

s e l f— \Ve ll t hank God I w a s n e v e r

‘
sa t i s fi e d t on e , ,

guil t y of t ha t C o m e co m e
.
’ ‘
s ai d I wha t abou t, , ,
‘

th e la t e S u p e ri n t e nd e n S u rg o n
t e ? I am s u re y o u
’ ’

ha t e d h im e nough N o no said B . I did n o t ha t e , , .

h i m b u t I mu s t own I di sl i k e d h i m v e ry much
,
.
’

‘ ‘
W e ll s aid I w e will call t h a t man slaugh t e r Go
,
’

, .

’
on B u t s om e how B s p ow e r of e locu t ion fail e d h im
’

. .
,

and aft e r p rayi ng for t h e s oul s of r e g e n e ra t e s i n n e r s ,

among s t whom I hav e no doub t h e i nclud e d m e h e ,

t ook h i s d e p ar t ur e .

V e ry many of t h e m i s s ionari e s i n B u rma e sp e cially , ,

w e r e from A m e rica ; t h e y w e r e s carc e ly t h e class t o

r e vail w i t h s uch a fa s t idiou s rac e a s t h e B h u dd is t s
p
of t ha t land M any of t h e m w e r e of e xc e e di ngly
.

hu mbl e o rigi n who had t ri e d t h e i r hand s a t many

,

t rad e s i n t h e i r ow n cou n t ry and fail i ng i n all fe ll , , ,

back o n t e ach i ng t h e acu t e s t p e o p l e on e ar t h t h e

doc t ri n e s of a fai t h wh ich t h e y t h e m se l v e s s carc e ly
u nd e r s t ood .

Wh il st t h e m i s s ionari e s among st t h e B urm e s e all

b u t s t arv e d on t h e i r s mall s t i p e nd s u nl e ss t h e y did a ,

b i t of p riva t e t radi ng wh ich many did t ho s e s e n t t o , ,

conv e r t t h e Kar e n s l iv e d i n clov e r Th e se p e o p l e had .

no fix e d r e l igion b u t t h e y ch e ri sh e d a l e g e nd t ha t t h e
,

t ru e fai t h would b e r e v e al e d t o t h e m t hrough a p e o l e

p
rul e d by a woman T h e m i ss io nari e s knowi ng t h i s
.
, ,
 B URMESE CUS T O MS 95

clai m e d t o hav e com e fro m our Q u e e n and t h e se ,

ignoran t p e o p l e acc e p t e d t h e Go sp e l bl i ndly i n ba t ch e s

of fift y and m o re .

T h e m i ss ionari e s no doub t hav e don e good among

th e K ar e n s b u t t h e y hav e n o t had a l ik e s ucc e ss
,

among s t t h e B urm e se At o n e larg e t own wh e r e

.
,

t h e r e w a s a larg e s chool fo r t h e e d uca t io n of B u rm e s e

and o t h e r g i rl s t h e only abando n e d fe mal e s w e re fou n d

,

t h e re
. T h e B u rm e se a r e n o t i mmacula t e b u t t h e y ,

l ook u p on i t a s s ham e ful t o v i s i t a n y man for mon e y

t h e y will do s o r e adily e n ough i f t h e r e h a s b e e n any

affe c t ion b e t w e e n t h e m and do n o t t h i n k t h a t d e,

grad i ng ; b u t a s for p rofe ss ional p r o flig a c y i t w a s ,

u nknown i n t ho se day s .

M a t ri mony i s a l igh t bond i n B u rma A cou p l e .

who l iv e t og e t h e r p ubl icly a r e r e cogni se d a s man

an d w ife b u t t h e t ie can alway s b e di ss ol v e d a t
,

p l e asu re
. M arriag e a s it e x i s t s among t h e m
, i s a ,

ma t t e r g e n e rall y of fr e e choic e and i s a t t e nd e d by a ,

good d e al of cour t s h i p o n t h e p ar t of t h e man and ,

coqu e t ry o n t ha t of t h e gi rl As long a s a woman i s .

w e ll t re a t e d sh e i s g e n e rally fai t h ful ; b u t i f S h e h a s

,

had a lov e r b e for e marriag e s h e con s id e r s t ha t h e h a s ,

a p rio r clai m o n h e r and will n o t h e s i t a t e t o r e n e w

,

r e la t ion s wi t h h i m i f h e w i s h e s i t I n ordi nary l i fe

,
.

sh e i s h e r h u s band s e qual and va s t ly h i s s u p e rior i n

’

t h e h ou s e for sh e buy s and se ll s a t p l e a s ur e m ix e s i n

, ,

all soc i e t y go e s abou t u n shackl e d and l e ad s a ha pp y

, , ,

con t e n t e d l ife S o boun t e ou s i s M o t h e r E ar t h i n B u rma

.
,

t ha t p ov e r t y i s all b u t unkno wn t h e r e ; by labou ri ng

for t h r e e mon t h s a fam ily can s ub s i s t i n idl e n e s s fo r t h e

r e mai n ing n in e F i sh i s t o b e had i n p l e n t y and
.
‘

,
 RE M I N I SC E N C ES OF I N DI A
s om e of i t —for i n st an c e t h e ai l sa — i s e v e n s u p e rior t o
,

s al mon . M any of t h e coar se r ki nd s of t h e fi n n y t ri b e ’

a r e co nv e r t e d i n t o a favou ri di h of h i r
g p
n a ee t e s , t e s .

I t i s com p o se d of fi sh p ou nd e d u p w i t h s al t and t h e n ,

r e s e rv e d ; t h e odou r i s mo s t offe n s iv e and t h e v e ry

p ,

t hough t of i t n e arly mak e s m e fe e l s ick .

T h e B u rm e s e hav e no ca s t e Th e y a r e o f Tar t ar.

o rigin hav e h igh ch e e k bon e s and t h e broad fac e s fla t

,
-
, ,

no se s an d s lan t i ng e y e s p e cul iar t o t h e M ongol ian rac e

, .

A B urman i s n o t wan t i ng i n p l uck ; h e i s g e n e rally

u nd e r t h e m iddl e h e igh t s l igh t ly b u t com p ac t l y buil t
, ,

p o s s e s s ing con s id e rabl e s t r e ng t h H e i s fond of wr e s t

.

l i ng and boxing i n wh ich kicki ng i s p e rm i t t e d , and

,

lay s a t foo t ball wh ich i s al s o i n vogu e i n t h e n e igh

p ,

b o u r i n g coun t ri e s and i n M alaya and S iam

, B u t by .

na t u r e h e i s i ndol e n t and will n o t work u nl e ss forc e d

,

by n e c e ss i t y and t h e n h e will labour l ik e a slav e p r o

, ,

p e l l i ng a h e avy boa t u p st r e am all day -

H e l e arn s t o .

s mok e and t o s wi m b e for e h e i s w e an e d fro m h is

mo t h e r s br e a s t and i s t a t t oo e d fro m t h e wai s t t o a
’

l i t t l e b e low t h e kn e e a s a s ign of m anhood H e i s a .

born gam bl e r and will b e t h i s bo t t o m ru p e e o n a boa t

,

rac e a mai n of cock s or a sp ur t o n p oni e s H e i s a

, ,
.

dari n g and e x p e r t robb e r fond of raid s by day o r nigh t

,

wh e n h i s e vil p a ss ion s a r e n o t arou se d h e i s kin d ,

h e ar t e d an d a s m e rry a s a crick e t H e i s v e ry cl e anl y .

i n h i s p e r s on and d e ligh t s i n gorg e ou s a pp are l H e .

i s al s o affe c t i ona t e t o h i s offsp ri ng se ldom p o ss e ss ,

i ng mor e t han o n e o r a t t h e mo st t w o wi v e s for t h e

, ,

wom e n a r e j e alou s and do n o t car e t o s har e a man

b e t w e e n t h e m H i s com p l e x i on i s fai r for an E a s t e rn
.

h e s how s mark s of r e sp e c t by s i t t ing down u nbidd e n ,

98 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF IN DIA

E v e ry lad i s t augh t t o r e ad and wri t e h i s ow n

languag e . E v e ry v illag e and t ow n h a s i t s mona s t e ry ,

wh e r e i n e ach boy i s t augh t fr e e of charg e S chool .

com m e nc e s abou t an h our b e fo re daybr e ak S ud .

d e n l y e v e ry boy com m e nc e s t o s hou t o u t h i s l e ss on s

a t th e t o
p of h i s vo ic e and ,
a bab e l com m e nc e s wh ich ,

t o sa y t h e l e a s t of i t i s s t ar t l ing t o o n e unaccu s t om e d
,

t o it. I know t h e fi rs t t im e I h e ard i t I t hough t i t

, ,

w a s an a t t ack by D aco i t s and j u m p e d o u t o f b e d and

,

qu ickly dr e sse d t o r e p e l t h e maraud e r s Wi t h t h e .

e xc e t i o n
p of t h e v e ry
p oor who bu
,
ry t h e ir d e ad

b e cau se t h e y canno t affo rd t o cr e ma t e t h e m t h e ,

B urman bu rn s h is and h a s a grand c e r e mony ov e r t h e

,

e ve nt . Wh e n a m e mb e r of a fam ily di e s p rofe ss ional ,

wom e n howl t h e d e a t h chan t ov e r h i m or h e r t h e

-
,

coffi n i s con st ruc t e d i n t h e s t r e e t ou t s id e t h e h ou se ,

and a p yr e i s p r e p ar e d a s n e ar a s p o ss ibl e t h e d e func t

i s carri e d t h e r e and r e duc e d t o a sh e s am id s t t h e cri e s
,

and lam e n t a t ion s o f t h e r e la t ion s .

B u t i n t h e ca s e of a p ri e s t e s p e cially i f h e i s o f any
,
'

no t e t h e r e mai n s a r e e mbalm e d T h e body i s d e

,
.

p o s i t e d i n a hou s e bu il t e x p r e ss ly for t ha t p u rp o s e ,

wi t h bamboo t ub e s t o conv e y t h e ga se s from t h e body

t o t h e e ar t h . T h e cor p s e i s k e p t t h e r e for a y e ar ,

car e fully guard e d by n e o p hy t e s T h e whol e p op u l a .

t ion t h e n t u rn s o u t M any dum my coffi n s a r e mad e

.
,

b e s id e s t h e o n e con t ai n i ng t h e d e func t and n e a t ly ,

arrang e d i n a clu s t e r i n an adj o i ning p la i n T h e .

p ri nci p al p yr e i s con s icuou s

p from i t s gr e a t e r s iz e

and t h e gorg e ou s n e ss of i t s s urrounding s S om e t i m e .

b e for e t h e day fix e d for t h e fi nal s c e n e boo t h s a r e

e re c t e d , h undr e d s of car t s wi t h t h e i r l iv i ng fr e igh t s
 B UR MES E F U N E R ALS 99

a sse mbl e t h e p e o p l e cam p o u t and a r e gular fa i r i s

, ,

h e ld O n t h e app oi n t e d day t h e car con t ai n i ng t h e

.
,

d e ad i s d rawn i n st a t e t o i t s final r e s t i ng p lac e Wh e n -

.

n e ar i t s d e s t i na t ion ro p e s a r e a t t ach e d t o t h e car fron t

, ,

and r e ar and a mock S t ruggl e t ak e s p lac e o n e

, ,

p ar t y p ro p e ll ing and t h e o t h e r r e t ardi ng t h e coffi n .

G e n e rall y i t i s onl y a farc e b u t a t t i m e s t h e t w o s id e s

,

e t e xc i t e d t h e car i s u s e t and i t s gha s t l y con t e n t s

g , p ,

a r e t h rown o u t .At la s t t ho se holding back giv e i n ,

and am id d e afe n i ng S hou t s t h e d e c e a se d i s p lac e d ov e r

t h e p yr e wh ich h a s b e e n p r e p ar e d for h i m T h i s is .

con s t ruc t e d of t h e mo s t i n flam mabl e ma t e rial s and h a s , ,

m ore ov e r s om e gun p owd e r h idd e n i n i t L ong h ori

, .

z o n t a l ro e s a r e s t r e t ch e d and t o the m rock e ts a re

p ,

a t t ach e d and all e nd e avour t o s e t i t o n fi r e for who e v e r

, ,

fir s t s ucc e e d s i s d e e m e d mo s t for t u na t e A ll t h i s t im e .

a bri s k t rad e i s carri e d o n E v e ry man woman gi rl

.
, , ,

and ch ild i s dr e ss e d i n hol iday co st u m e T h e re i s .

no t h ing b u t m ir t h around N o s t rang e r woul d dr e am

.

t ha t i t w a s a fu n e ral of a h igh p ri e s t T h e hubbu b-

.

and noi s e a r e d e afe n i ng t h e du st fe arful T h e grou nd

, .

i s cov e r e d wi t h fla g s t a ffs flag s bann e rs and g e n e ral

, , ,

o llifi c a t i o n i s t h e o rd e r of t h e day
j .

A t la s t t h e p yr e wi t h a S l igh t r e p or t a s a rock e t
, ,

go e s hom e t o t h e magazi n e i s al igh t t h e fi r e quickly , ,

s r e ad s and all t h e adj ac e n t s t ruc t ur e s a s w e l l a s t h e

p , ,

on e con t ai n ing t h e coffi n so t a s t e fully g o t u p a t a

,

co n s id e rabl e co st a r e bu rn t t o t h e ground ; i n hal f

,

an hour no t h ing i s l e ft b u t a sh e s and s mok e from t h e

s mould e ring ruin s T h e c rowd di sp e r se s ; t h e p ri e s t s
.

coll e c t t h e charr e d r e main s of t h e i r d e func t bro t h e r ,

and p u t t h e m i n t o a s mall S h e ll of s il v e r or gold wh ich ,

1 00 RE M I N I SCE N C E S OF INDIA
t h e y e i t h e r bu ry i n t h e bo s om of G a u d a m a or d e p o s it
i n t h e t umul u s i n a p agoda T h e s c e n e how e v e r r e .
,

p gu n a n t t o ou r fe e l i ng s i s a v e ry gay o n e wh il s t i t
,

la st s T h e app ar e l of t h e m e n and wo m e n t h e n um e ro u s
.
,

e mbl e m s d i s p lay e d and t h e b e au t y o f t h e fl i m s y s t ru e

,

t ur e s s o gaily p ai n t e d and r e sp l e nd e n t w i t h t i n se l s il k , ,

and gold and s il v e r l e af h e l p t o l igh t u p wha t ough t,

t o b e a s ombr e s c e n e .

As I hav e b e fo r e s aid t h e B u rm e s e a r e i n v e t e ra t e
,

gambl e r s t h e wo m e n b e i ng a s bad a s t h e m e n
,
.

D uring t h e i r sp or t s t h e y al l m ix t og e t h e r fr e e ly and ,

b e t righ t and l e ft Th e i r e xc i t e m e n t a t a clo se rac e

.
,

e s p e ciall y i n a boa t co n t e s t can no t b e imagi n e d by ,

anyon e who h a s n o t wi t n e sse d o n e ; t h e p e o p l e go

wild backi ng o n e s id e or t h e o t h e r T h e y w ill b e t
,
.

e v e ry t h i ng t h e y
p o ss e s s and mor e ,
M any a gi rl aft er .
,

lo s i ng all h e r j e w e ll e ry and wha t mon e y S h e p o s

s e ss e d w ill i f a t t rac t i v e s t ak e h e r se l f agai n st what
, , ,

s h e con s id e r s h e r val u e and i f s h e lo se s will follow

, , ,

t h e wi n n e r
(s h e g e n e rally o n s uch an occa s ion t ak e s , ,

good car e t o b e t w i t h a bach e lor n o t u n p l e a s ing t o

h e r se l f) and b e com e s h i s wi fe or concubi n e for t h e
, ,

t w o a r e s ynonymou s i n B urma .

T h e B urm e s e u nl i k e t h e na t i v e s of I ndi e (who

d e l igh t i n marry i ng ch ildr e n ) p r e fe r t h e i r wi v e s t o b e ,

full grown and ma t u r e d and ca p abl e of b e ari ng h e al t hy

-
,

ch ildr e n A B urman i s a man of con t radic t ion s ; h is

.

good qual i t i e s abou t balanc e h i s bad b u t wi t h all h i s , ,

faul t s I p r e fe r h i m t o a na t i v e o f S ou t h e rn I ndia As
,
.

for t h e wom e n t h e y a r e n o t p r e t t y a t fi rs t t h e ir p e cul iar

,

fe a t ur e s d e t rac t from t h e ir charm s b u t wh e n o n e g e t s ,

u s e d t o t h e i r p hy s iognom y t h e y a r e v e ry t aki ng ,
.
 102 R E M I N I S CE N CES OF I NDIA

n ic e wh i t e e v e n t e e t h T h e y can all s wi m and d e

, ,
.
,

l igh t i n dabbl i ng abou t i n wa t e r .

O n t h e i r N e w Y e ar s D ay wh ich corr e sp ond s wi t h

’

o ur A p ril I t h e girl s go abo u t wi t h p o t s of wa t e r and

,

dr e nch all t h e y m e e t O n o n e occa s ion know i ng.

,

th e cu st om Wor sl e y of t h e 4 7t h B e ngal N a t iv e
, ,

I n fan t ry and I don n i ng t h e shabbi e st garm e n t s w e

, ,

o s se ss e d moun t e d ou r on i e s and rod e i n t o t h e t ow n

p , p
of Prom e W e t old our s yc e s t o k e e p clo se W e
. .

had n o t go n e far wh e n a b e vy of gi rl s who w e r e ,

drawn u p on e i t h e r s id e of t h e road w e had t o p a ss ,

dou se d u s W e w e r e off ou r p on i e s i n a mom e n t and

.
,

aft e r t h e m l i k e l igh t n i ng T h e gi rl s fi nding u s ov e r

.
,

t aki ng t h e m t ook t o t h e ri v e r ; t h e r e w e r e va st raft s

,

of t e ak t i mb e r moor e d along s id e t h e bank and a s w e ,

p l u ng e d i n aft e r t h e m t h e y t ri e d t o dodg e u s among s t

,

t h e log s B u t Wor sl e y and I w e r e t h e n only abou t

.

t we nt y on e -
w e could bo t h s wi m and div e a s w e ll a s t h e

b e st among s t t h e gi rl s and w e s oon caugh t and duck e d

,

t h e m w e ll At fi rs t t h e y w e r e v e ry wro t h a s i t i s n o t
.
,

u s ual t o t ak e r e p ri sal s on t h e se occa s ion s b u t fi ndi ng ,

t ha t w e di d i t o nly i n fu n t h e y r e t al ia t e d and s om e, ,

doz e n o f t h e m se t t i ng on u s a t onc e duck e d u s i n ,

r e t urn and for a good quar t e r of an hour I n e v e r had

,

gr e a t e r fun i n my l i fe W e w e r e figh t i ng a s i t w e re
.
, ,

for bar e l i fe agai n s t many I n t h e s c rimmag e t h e .

s l e nd e r rai m e n t of t h e gi rl s wh ich w a s b u t wra ed

,
pp
round t h e m and loo p e d loo s e ly acro ss t h e bo s om and
a t t h e wai s t s oon o t adri ft and t h e r e w e r e w e s u r
g , ,

round e d by a m e rry cr e w of a s b e au t ifully mad e

s ri t e s a s o n e could wi s h t o se e
p A g r e a t , c r o w d had .

a s se mbl e d o n t h e b e ach e nj oying t h e fun and wh e n

“

,
 B U R MESE WO M E N 1 03

w e t hough t w e had t ak e n ou r r e v e ng e w e h e l p e d t h e
,

gi rl s t o coll e c t t h e i r garm e n t s and t o clo t h e t h e m .

W e all land e d l i k e so many hal f drow n e d ra t s ; b u t a

-

w e t t i ng i n t h e E a s t e sp e c ially i n A p ril do e s l i t t l e
, ,

harm W e s oo n found a boo t h k e p t by a M a d r a ss i e

.
,

who s old h o t coffe e and t e a and a fe w cu p s of t h e

,

fragran t i nfu s io n s oon di ffu se d warm t h i n t o t h e bo som s

of our fai r o p p on e n t s and ou r se lv e s T h e B urm e se .

a r e t h e o nly e o le
p p e xc e p t t h e
, C h i n e se i n t h e E a,st ,

who u nd e rs t and o r a p p re cia t e a j ok e Th e y a r e m e rry

.

by na t ur e and t h e l e a st ab s u rdi t y w ill t ickl e t h e i r

,

ri s ibl e facul t i e s .

Wh e n w e fi r s t occu p i e d t h e cou n t ry t h e gr e a t e st ,

favou r you could confe r o n a gi rl w a s t o giv e h e r a

cak e of s oa p T h e y had an id e a t ha t t h e wh i t e la t h e r
.

h e l p e d t o mak e E uro p e an s fai r Th e y gr e a t ly adm ir e

.

a wh i t e h e al t hy s kin e s pe c iall y i f accom p an i e d by

, ,

dark e y e s and hai r and a hai rl e s s fac e Th e y do n ot

.

adm i r e hai ry m e n a s t h e y sa y t h e y r e m i nd t h e m of
,

a p e s T h e B u rm e se a s a rac e n e v e r cul t iva t e ha i r

.

abou t t h e i r fac e s o r t h e i r bod i e s —i n fac t t h e y a re ,

n e arly d e void of all hai r e xc e p t s uch a s grow s o n t h e i r

h e ad s .

B u rm e s e wo m e n and gi rl s a r e fr e e t o v i s i t E u ro p e an
fam il i e s a b e vy o f gi rl s will n o t h e s i t a t e t o vi s i t e v e n
a bach e lor j u s t t o S ho w t h e m s e lv e s off and t h e i r o rna
,

m e n t s and p e rha p s t o a t t rac t an adm ir e r for t h e se

, ,

l i t t l e wom e n hav e no obj e c t io n t o acc e p t a é a /a (a

fo re ign e r ) a s a h u s band acco rdi ng t o t h e ir law s and
cu s t om s—and v e ry good wiv e s t h e y mak e t o o T h e , .

B urm e s e m e n a r e n o t u nduly j e alou s of t h e i r wom e n .

T h e y sa y i f a wo man wi sh e s t o b e unfai t hful no t h i ng ,

1 04 RE M IN I SCE N CES OF I N DI A

will p r e v e n t h e r — all t h e wa t ch i ng and p ry ing i n t h e

world will b e t h rown awa y — and i t i s t h e r e for e b e t t e r
t o t ru s t t h e m t han t o b e al way s doub t i ng t h e m .

A gi rl s gr e a t ambi t ion i s t o k e e p a s t all i n a bazaar

’

I t i s h e r i n t roduc t ion i n t o s oci e t y and i s e qu ival e n t t o

,

ou r own gi rl s b e i ng brough t o u t and a S ign t ha t sh e i s

,

of a marriag e abl e a g e D uri ng a cour t s hi p if a g i r l

.
,

l igh t s h e r adm i r e r s ch e roo t giving i t a fe w p uffs h e r

’

s e lf i t i s a S ign t ha t s h e i s will i ng t o acc e t h im b u t if

,
p ,

s h e r e fu se s h e had b e t t e r go e l se wh e r e
, .

Th e r e i s n o t a p re t t i e r s igh t i n t h e world t han t o se e

a crowd of B urm e s e o n a gala — day a s t h e y go i n p r o
,

c e s s io n t o o n e of t h e i r s h ri n e s t h e i r gay dr e sse s p r e t t y ,

figur e s s m il i ng fac e s bann e r s flying fl ag s s t r e am ing

, , , ,

mak e a di sp lay difficul t t o b e a t anywh e r e add t o

i t t h e b e au t y of t h e s u rro undi ng s c e n e ry t h e e l e gan t ,

p pro or t ion s of t h e i r s h ri n e s t h e arch

,
i t e c t u r e of t h e ir

éy ozm g s and t h e m e rry voic e s of t h e young and you

, ,

hav e a s c e n e di fficul t t o ma t ch T h e s id e s of t h e .

road s along wh ich t h e y march a r e cov e r e d wi t h boo t h s

con t ai ni ng offe ri ng s fo r t h e god s or a s p ro p i t ia t ion s t o
,

t h e n a i s (e vil s p i ri t s ) t h e r e i s n o t a dull mom e n t u n t il

t h e a p e x of t h e h illock o n wh i ch t h e p agoda s t and s i s

r e ach e d T h e n t h e r e i s a s ol e m n s il e nc e t h e y kn e e l
.

down i n grou p s and wi t h u p rai se d cla sp e d hand s t h e y

, ,

su l ica t e th e de it y T h e wom e n can no t r e a d or wri t e

pp .
,

a s t he i r ri e s t s a r e n o t only fo rbidd e n t o t e ach t h e m

p ,

b u t mu st n o t s p e ak t o t h e m or e v e n look a t t h e m
,
.

A p ri e s t can no t p o ss e ss any p ro p e r t y H e i s a .

g e nu in e m e ndican t d e p e nd e n t fo r daily food and

,

raim e n t on t h e chari t y of h i s fl ock L ad s d re sse d i n .

y e llow wi t h bo wl s s u sp e nd e d rou nd t h e ir n e ck s or on
,
106 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF INDIA

m e n t no o n e i s p ur e t h e r e i s i nna t e s i n wh ich mu st ,

b e e x p ia t e d and t h i s i s do n e by t h e t ran s m igra t io n of

,

s oul s .P e o p l e a r e p un i sh e d i n accordanc e wi t h t h e
s i n s t h e y com m i t t e d wh e n o n e ar t h and a r e gradually ,

p urg e d t h e r e of E v e n t ually wh e n t h e y hav e e x ia t e d

.
, p
t he i r si ns t h e y a r e again ab s orb e d i n t h e godh e ad
.

w h e nc e t h e y s p ru ng wh ich i s cal l e d N i b b a n Th is
,
.

do e s n o t m e an ann ih ila t ion b u t s im p ly an a b s o r p ,

t io n i n t o t h e Pow e r wh i ch o riginally c r e a t e d The .

doc t ri n e s of B uddha w e r e p r e ach e d fully a t hou sand

y e ars b e for e t h e com m e nc e m e n t of t h e C h ri s t ian
e ra . T h e p agoda s a t R angoon and P e g u w e r e
i n cou r se of con s t ruc t ion wh e n R e mu s j um p e d ov e r
t h e wall s of R om e and v e ry many of t h e s ayi ng s
,

a t t ri bu t e d t o ou r S aviour a r e t o b e fou nd i n B uddh i st

book s wri t t e n s om e hu ndr e d s of y e ar s b e for e H i s
,

adv e n t T h e Buddhi s t p ri e s t s laugh wh e n a P ro

.

t e s t an t m i s s ionary t ri e s t o conv e r t h i m and s a y Y ou , ,

‘

call H i m C hri s t w e cal l H i m B uddha— sam e p e r s on

,
.

Y our r e l ig ion t h e y r e mark .

’
i s only co p i e d from
,
‘

ou r s Y ou s t ick t o your v e r s io n and w e w ill s t ick t o

'

.
,

’
our s . I look u p on i t a s i m p o ss ibl e t o mak e a s i nc e r e
conv e r t of e i t h e r a M u ss ul man a B rah m i n o r a , ,

B uddh i s t b e cau se t h e i r r e l igion s s u i t t h e m ; t h e y

,

t ho roughly b e l i e v e i n t h e m and u nd e r t h e m t h e y hav e

,

t h ri v e n v e ry many t hou sand y e ar s .

T h e K ar e n s who l iv e d on t h e h ighland s o n t h e
bord e r s of B urma a r e qu i t e a d i s t i nc t rac e mor e ,

clo se l y r e s e m bl i ng t h e Co ssy a h s and t h e J y n t e a h s o n

th e confin e s of A ssam whil s t t h e Ca c h a r i e s of t h e
,

lai n s of A s s am a r e no doub t t h e d e s c e ndan t s of t h e

p
B urm e s e who ov e rran t h e vall e y of t h e B rah ma p oo t ra
,
 H I LL T R I B ES 10 7

for many y e ars T h e h ill t rib e s a r e a fi n e manly

.
,

rac e p o ss e ss e d of gr e a t bodily st re ng t h an d ca p abl e

, ,

of carryi ng a s h e avy w e igh t s a s t h e é a m a /s of C on

s t a n t i n o l e or of S yria
p .

T h e i r load s a r e s u pp or t e d by m e an s of s t ra p s hook e d
o n t o t h e s hould e r s and a band acro ss t h e for e h e ad .

Th e i r dre ss s o m e wha t r e se mbl e s t h e t un ic worn by t h e

anci e n t R oman s T h e wo m e n e sp e cially t ho s e of t h e
.
,

D arj e e l i ng T e rai a r e cr e d i t e d wi t h b e i ng abl e t o carry

,

h e avi e r w e igh t s e v e n t han t h e m e n T h e r e i s a l e g e n d .

t ha t a g e n t l e man wi sh i ng t o hav e a iano carri ed u

,
p p
t o t h e s t a t ion s how e d i t t o a p or t e r
, who t ri e d t h e ,

w e igh t s hook h i s h e ad and s aid A l t hough I canno t

,
‘
, ,

’
t ak e i t my se l f I t h in k m y S i s t e r can
,
wh ich i t i s said ,

sh e did . T h e wom e n a r e ma ss iv e l y bu il t b u t w i t h ,

C h ri st ian i t y t h e y hav e n o t i mbib e d t h e habi t s of c l e a n l i

n e ss U nl e ss caugh t young an d t rain e d i n t h e hou s e
.
,

of a E u ro p e an t h e y a r e t o o fil t h y t o look a t ; b u t wi t h
,

t h e ayah s o f S h illong and t h e Kar e n a t t e ndan t s o n

m i s s ionari e s i n B urma cl e anl i n e ss h a s b e com e a habi t ,

and many of t h e young girl s a r e p a s sably p r e t t y and

w e ll mad e .

F e ud s a r e com mo n among s t t h e s avag e K are n s ,

who a r e di vid e d i n t o wh i t e r e d and black ,

T h e ir .

war gong s a r e p e cul iar and a r e gr e a t ly p ri z e d and

-
, ,

t h e s e c r e t of t h e i r manufac t ur e h a s al mo s t d i e d o u t .

T h e y a r e cyl i nd rical i n S ha p e mad e of m e t al and hav e , ,

only o n e h e ad o n wh ich m e t al frog s a r e s old e r e d

.
.

T ho se wi t h a ri ng of s ingl e frog s can s t ri k e a no t e t ha t

can b e h e ard ov e r o n e rang e of h ill s ; t ho se t ha t hav e
a row of t w o frog s o n e o n t h e t o p of t h e o t h e r can b e
, ,

h e ard ov e r t w o rang e s ; wh il s t t ho s e wi t h t hr e e wh ic h ,
108 RE M I N I SCE N C E S OF I NDIA

a re v e ry rar e and p ro p or t io na t e ly p ri z e d a r e good t o ,

giv e warn i ng ov e r t h r e e rang e s and hav e b e e n t h e ,

cau se of m an y fe ud s t h e t rib e s figh t i ng among st t h e m

,

s e l v e s for t h e o ss e ss ion of o n e
p .

T h e y a r e giv e n t o raidi ng ; t h e buying and s e ll

i ng of bo y s and gi rl s a n d s lav e ry i n a m i t iga t e d form
, ,

a re
p r e val e n. t T h e K ar e n coun t ry i s
p ri nci p ally
valuabl e for i t s t e ak for e st s At t i m e s all t h e se h ill
.

e o le hav e gi v n u s a good d e al of t roubl e ; t h ey

p p e

e r e c t s t rong s t ockad e s and

fi gyaa t h e a
pp roach es A .

a ngy i s a s mall bamboo s t ak e driv e n i n t o t h e grou nd

f ,

wi t h t h e p oi n t an i nch abov e ground T h i s p oi n t i s .

h ard e n e d by fi r e and barb e d and will go t hrough t h e ,

s ol e of an ord i nary am mun i t io n boo t T h e se ob s t ru e

.

t i on s t h e y co v e r ov e r w i t h l e av e s e t c and t h e y mak e
,
.
,

m o s t form idabl e d e fe nc e s .

N o n e of t h e B u rm e s e t h i nk i t i mmoral for o n e of
t h e i r wom e n t o l i v e w i t h a E u ro e an a s sh e i s con
p ,

s id e r e d h i s wife by t h e cu s t o m of t h e coun t ry If her .

ro t e c t or di e s o r l e av e s t h e cou n t ry t h e gi rl s oon fi nd s
p ,

a na t i v e h u s band S h e h a s g e n e rally accu mula t e d

.

s om e
p p ro e r t y,
h a s j e w e ll e ry and p e
,
rha p s a hou se

h a s b e e n gi v e n h e r S h e i s con s id e r e d l ik e many a
.
,

w idow a t h om e a d e c id e d ca t ch I f t h e r e b e a ch ild
, .

or Ch il dr e n by t h e E u ro p e an i t i s no bar t o h e r i n ,

marryi ng agai n . Th e s e ch ildr e n a r e t ak e n car e of

fully a s w e ll i f n o t b e t t e r t han any ch ildr e n sh e may
, ,

hav e by h e r s e cond v e n t ur e T h e wom e n e sp e c ially .

,

b u t al s o t h e m e n a r e v e ry fond of ch ildr e n wh i t e r
,

t han t h e m s e l v e s . B u t s om e how t h e p rog e ny of t h e

p u r e E u ro p e an wi t h any of t h e se rac e s do e s n o t com e

u
p i n com e l i n e s s t o t ho se born of M ogul s or t rad e r s ,
1 10 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF I N DI A
— e v e n M u ss ul man s who abh or idol s—crowd t h i t h e r
,

T h e B h o o t ia n s w i t h t h e i r p raying wh e e l s and t h e i r
,

baggag e an imal s (sh e e p ) a sse mbl e t h e r e ; b u t I ,

b e l i e v e i t i s mor e t o wor sh i p a t t h e s hri n e of V e nu s

t han t o p e rform r e l igiou s ri t e s for wi t h t h e e xc e p t io n , ,

of t h e p ri e s t s no m e n a r e allow e d t o l i v e t h e r e p e r
,

m a n e n tly . T h e t h r e e v illag e s co n s i s t of wom e n girl s , ,

and ch ildr e n onl y T h e se wom e n a r e r e markably w e ll

.

mad e and good fe a t ur e d and dr e s s m or e l i k e M a d r a ss i e s

-
,

t han A ss am e se and a r e all cour t e zan s

, .

E v e ry H i ndoo t e m p l e h a s i t s vo t ari e s i n t h e S hap e of

v e ry many danc i n g gi rl s con s id e r e d l i k e M oham m e d s
'
-
, ,

h o u r i e s i n Paradi se p e r p e t ual v i rgi n s

,
T h e Ca c h e r i e s .

a r e a j olly drunk e n rac e

,
b u t m uch o pp r e s se d by t h e
,

M o u z a d a r s who a r e all H i ndoo s and wh o forc e t h e m

, ,

t o do all t h e p or t e rag e o f t h e p rovi n c e Th e y a r e .

p r e s s e d and t ak e n m il e s and m il e s fro m t h e i r ho m e s ,

oft e n wi t hou t food t o carry t h e baggag e o f s om e

,

s ah ib wh il s t t h e lazy o ium e a t i ng and s iri t dri nk i ng

p p
- -
,

A ssam e se a r e s p ar e d T h e Ca c h i n s of B u rma a r e
.

su o se d t o b e t h e d e s c e ndan t s of t h e origi n al i n
pp
habi t an t s of t h e coun t ry T h e y w e r e much o p p r e s se d
.

i n form e r y e ars by t h e i r conqu e ro rs and fle d i n t o t h e ,

h ill s and o t h e r r e mo t e plac e s Th e y t a t t oo t h e fac e s .

of t h e i r wom e n an d gi v e a s a r e a s on t ha t t h e y w e r e
,

s o adm ir e d by t h e B urm e se t ha t p e riodical raid s w e re

mad e by t h e s t rong e r rac e and t h e i r wom e n carri e d ,

off on accou n t o f t h e ir b e au t y Wha t t h e y may hav e .

b e e n i n form e r day s I do n o t know b u t an ugl i e r s e t

i t would b e difficul t t o m e e t nowaday s anywh e r e and ,

t h e t rib e may r e s t a s s ur e d t ha t n o fu t ur e raid s for

w iv e s will e v e r b e mad e on t h e m T h e G a r r o w e s a r e .
 DAC O I T Y 1 I 1

s avag e s p u r e and s im p l e goi ng abou t wi t hou t a st i t ch

,

of clo t h ing .

T h e wom e n w e ar i ron and bra ss ri ng s i n t h e ir e ar s ,

and t h e lob e s oft e n r e ach t o t h e s hould e r To S how .

how v i ndic t iv e and d e t e rm i n e d t h e B urm e se a r e i n

av e ngi ng an i nj ury I may s t a t e t h e followi ng : I w a s
,

l ivi ng wi t h an offic e r of t h e 4 t h S ikh s a t E e i n g m a h ,

t w e n t y s e v e n m il e s fro m P rom e
-
A bou t hal f p a st four .
-

i n t h e m orn i ng w e h e ard t h e mo s t di s mal howl i ng

fro m a villag e abou t hal f a m il e off Th in ki ng i t w a s .

a ca se of dacoi t y w e ha st ily dr e sse d and arm e d w i t h

, , ,

r e volv e rs mad e for t h e haml e t s e ndi n g ord e r s t o t h e

, ,

guard for a p ar t y of arm e d s e p oy s t o foll ow u s W e .

fou nd a man had b e e n mu rd e r e d h i s t hroa t hav ing ,

b e e n c u t from e a r t o e a r H e w a s S l e e p i ng b e t w e e n
.

h i s t w o w iv e s o n e o f whom r e cogn i s e d t h e m urd e r e r

,

a s h e mad e off and w e l e arn t t h e followi ng ar t icular s

, p
aft e rward s : A bou t a y e ar b e for e t h e re w a s a ca se of
daco i t y and t h e murd e r e d man had giv e n e vid e nc e
,

wh ich l e d t o t h e co nv i c t io n of t h e m u rd e r e r who w a s ,

s e n t e nc e d t o b e i m ri s o n e d i n t h e Prom e gaol for a

p
n umb e r o f y e ars T h e n igh t of t h e mu rd e r t h i s D acoi t
.
,

had clamb e r e d ov e r t h e gaol wall s om e fi ft e e n fe e t h igh , ,

had walk e d o u t t o h i s villag e r e v e ng e d h i m se l f on t h e

,

i nform e r and g o t off s co t fr e e

,
-
.

N o o n e can r e al iz e a fi r e i n a t own i n B urma or ,

e ve n t h e e riodical burn ing s of t h e va st s avan na s

p ,

w i t hou t hav ing se e n o n e I n t h r e e y e ar s Prom e a

.
,

t ow n e x t e nding along t h e ri v e r bank for fully t h r e e

quar t e r s of a m il e and o v e r a quar t e r o f a mil e broad

, ,

w a s t wic e burn t down s carc e ly a s ingl e hou s e e s ca p i ng

,
.

O n o n e occa s ion Wor sl e y of t h e 4 7t h and I g o t t o

, ,
 1 12 RE M IN I SC E N C E S OF INDIA

the C u t ch e rry wi t h gr e a t difficul t y ; t h e flam e s w e r e

swe e
p i ng acro ss t h e st re e t s ign i t i ng t h e o pp
,
o si te

hou se s W e had t o run and dodg e and g o t t o t h e

.
,

cour t hou se t o fi nd t h e D e p u t y —
-
C om m i s s io n e r wri ng
i ng h i s hand s and s ayi n g t ha t all h i s r e cord s would
b e d e s t roy e d .

W e Cl i mb e d on t o t h e roof and wi t h hand s and ,

fe e t t or e o ff t h e t ha t ch t h rowi ng i t down F lak e s of

, ,
.

l igh t e d combu s t ibl e s Con s t an t ly fe ll o n ou r building ,

and w e had t o ru sh t o t h e p lac e and ca st dow n t h e

i n flammabl e ma t e rial s W e work e d l ik e slav e s and
.
,

could g e t n o o n e t o a s s i s t u s ; t h e y w e r e n o t s ala
mand e rs t h e y said T h e t ha t ch w a s a t la st off t h e
, . .

or iginal wood e n roof for t h e bu ildi ng w a s an old ,

ooa g / zie hou se ; b u t t h e m a t s id e s wh ich had b ee n

p ,

add e d by u s b e gan t o s mok e and w e t hough t i t w a s

, ,

al l u p wi t h t h i s p alac e of j u s t ic e T h e D e p u t y C om .
-

m i ss ion e r w a s s t ill cryi ng o u t wha t S hould h e do I n .

fun I said D o ! Why l e t i t bu rn and a s c e r t ai n

,
‘
, , ,

com m i ssaria t offic e r s w e r e su p p o s e d t o hav e don e i n

C h i na aft e r p e riodical fir e s mak e you r for t un e , .
’

Wha t do you m e an ? s cr e am e d t h e i ra t e o ffi cial

’
‘
.

‘
Why said I
,
’
wh e n t h e r e cord s a r e d e st roy e d
, ,

ock m on ey and r e t i r e a s a m ill ionai r e H

’

e t th e e
p , .

w a s sp e e chl e s s wi t h rag e a t m y s u pp o s i ng as he ,

t hough t t ha t h e w a s ca p abl e of s uch an a c t of i n

,

famy and would n o t sp e ak t o m e for s om e t i m e

,

aft e rward s ; b u t our ac t ion s con t radic t e d o ur wo rd s ,

for i f any t h i ng s av e d t ho se r e cord s i t w a s t h e j o in t

e x e r t ion s of Wo r s l e y and my se l f and w e w e r e aft e r ,

ward s t han k e d for wha t w e had don e by t h e C om

‘
m i ss ion e r I n t h e s e fi r e s ca t s dog s nu m e rou s i a e é
.
, , ,
1 14 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF IN D I A

M y God man I r e p l i e d wha t d id y ou m e an by call

, ,
‘

i ng a man u nd e r my ord e r s a mu rd e re r S o a t i t we
w e n t ham m e r and t ong s ; b u t a s I would n o t budg e
,

an i nch h e offe r e d t o wi t hdraw h is l e t t e r if I would

,

w i t hdraw m i n e and a s I had wri t t e n i t wi t h a v i e w of

,

t aki ng a ri s e o u t of h im I con se n t e d and w e br e ak

, ,

fas t e d t og e t h e r am icably .

T h e naigu e w a s t ri e d and s e n t e nc e d by t h e D e p u t y
t o im p ri s onm e n t b u t w e a p p e al e d and t h e C omm i s
, ,

s i o n e r s ai d h e s hould hav e acqui t t e d t h e man had t h e

ch e s t con t ai n e d any mon e y a s i t w a s e m p t y h e t hough t ,

t h e a c t of firi ng u nj u s t ifiabl e b u t com mu t e d h i s s e n t e nc e

,

t o s i x mon t h s s i m p l e i m p ri s onm e n t and a t t h e s am e ,

t i m e mad e h i m offi cia t i ng j e madar of t h e gaol wh ich ,

carri e d c e r t ain e m ol um e n t s wi t h i t so t h e naigu e w a s

,

ra t h e r t h e gai n e r B u t I con s id e r h e only did h i s

.

du t y wh e n h e r e p e ll e d t h e a t t ack and I do n o t se e,

wha t t h e ch e s t b e ing e m p t y had t o do wi t h i t o n e way

o r t h e o t h e r W h e n a t t ack e d a s oldi e r s hould u se h is
.

arm s and t o p u ni sh h im for so doing i s t o d e grad e

,

him .

O ur C o mm i ss ion e r w a s a fi r e e a t e r H e call e d o u t
-
.

t w o o ffic e r s u nd e r h i m b e cau se t h e y di ffe re d fro m h im ,

and h e al s o chall e ng e d t h e G e n e ral commandi ng t h e

divi s ion t o a du e l who i n st e ad of acc e p t i ng t h i s p ol i t e
, ,

i nvi t a t ion o f p i s t ol s for t w o and coffe e for o n e r e p or t e d ,

h i m t o t h e Go v e rn m e n t B u t t h e C omm i ss ion e r w a s
.

t oo valuabl e an o ffi c e r t o b e di s p e n s e d wi t h and h e ,

w a s o nly r e m i nd e d t ha t t h e day s of du e ll ing w e r e

ov e r . Thi s G e n e ral w a s a Plym ou t h B ro t h e r a n d , ,

u nl e ss r e p or t d id h i m gr e a t i nj u s t ic e h e had b e e n i n ,

h i s you t h a s w ild a s h e w a s now s anc t imon iou s He .

 T WO B R I G AD I ERS 1 15

w e n t by t h e nam e of D i s mal J e m my I s u sp e c t e d .

h i m of doi ng wha t h e could t o p r e v e n t m y advanc e

m e n t a s h e had onc e b e e n p u t und e r arr e s t by m y
,

grandfa t h e r for s om e br e ach of d i s ci p l i n e i n h i s you t h .

H e k e p t m e bac k wh e n I r e c e iv e d ord e r s t o t ak e t h e
comman d o f m y old com p any t h e n u nd e r ord e r s fo r ,

P e rs ia and wh e n e v e r I w a s app l i e d for h e had s om e

,

e xcu s e t o g iv e for n o t lac i ng my se rv ic e s a t t h e d i s

p
o s al o f t h e C iv il Go v e rnm e n t
p .

T h e B rigadi e r I s e rv e d u nd e r a t T ongho w a s a s fi n e
a s ol di e r a s e v e r l i v e d H e had s e e n co n s id e rabl e .

s e rvic e and had gr e a t ly d i s t i ngu i s h e d h im s e lf i n t h e

,

K a ffi r war u nd e r S om e r se t and S i r H arry S m i t h .

H e had b e e n a no t e d a t hl e t e a sp l e ndid s ho t and a , ,

good all rou nd sp or t s man and e v e rybody b e l i e v e d i n

-
,

h i m H e w a s n o t long w i t h u s and wh e n h e l e ft o n
.
,

p romo t ion e v e ry s oldi e r E uro p e an and na t iv e w e nt to

, ,

s e e h i m off H i s s ucc e ss or bor e a charac t e r t h e v e ry

.

r e v e r se H e had n o t d i s t i ngu i sh e d h im s e lf i n t h e
.

war s a t t h e C a p e D u ri ng o n e h o t ac t ion h i s C olon e l

.
, ,

n o t s e e i ng h i m a s k e d wh e r e h e w a s
‘
, I don t know .

’
’ ‘
wh e r e h e i s said a s o l die r clo se by b u t I t h i nk t h e m s
, ,

h i s boo t s p oi n t ing t o a p ai r j u st vi s i bl e o u t o f a d e n se
’

bu s h .
‘
By God s i r ! s aid t h e C olon e l t h i s i s n o t
,
‘ ’

t h e fi r st t im e I hav e se e n you s how t h e wh i t e fe a t h e r ,

’
and i f I l iv e I l l t r y you by a cour t mar t ial
,
’
But -
.

al mo s t a mom e n t aft e r t h e C olon e l w a s S ho t t h rough

t h e h e ad and t h e p e r s on h e had t hr e a t e n e d a s t h e
, ,

n e x t se n ior offi c e r t ook t h e r e gim e n t o u t of ac t ion

,

and g o t a br e v e t ! O n ano t h e r occa s ion t h e B rigadi e r

com p lai n e d t o a gallan t S co t ch ma n t h e n i n command ,

of t h e r e gi m e n t t ha t o n e of t h e offic e r s had call e d h i m

,
1 18 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF I ND I A

e ngi n e e r I mad e my d raugh t s man co p y t h e se o u t

.

e xac t ly and s e n t i t i n I t w a s r e t urn e d s cor e d al l

,
.

‘ ’
ov e r i n p e n cil w i t h s uch r e mark s a s mo s t d e fe c t iv e
,

h e r e and o u t o f p ro p or t ion t h e r e al l o f wh ich amu se d

,
‘
,

m e gr e a t ly S o I r e p l i e d t ha t wh il e I r e gr e t t e d
.
,

e xc e e di n gl y t ha t t h e p lan w a s s o d e fe c t iv e it w a s ,

d —
a fac s i m il e of o n e raw n by s o and so and e r e c t e d -
,

by s o and s o — bo t h c e l e bra t e d i n t h e i r r e sp e c t i v e
- -

p rof e s s ion s .

B u t t h e ch i e f e ngin e e r bo r e no mal ic e H e and h is .

wi fe w e r e s t ayi ng w i t h m e s oon aft e rward s during o n e ,

o f h i s t ou r s of i n sp e c t ion H e w a s bu s y wri t i n g i n a
.

room I had p lac e d a t h i s di sp o sal ; h i s w i fe and

S e v e ral o t h e r ladi e s and g e n t l e m e n w e r e lunch i ng w i t h

u s and t h e conv e r s a t ion t u rn e d on official c o r r e s o n

, p
d e nc e .

‘
W e ll s aid t h e e ngin e e r s lad y all t h e e x e cu t iv e s
,
’ ’

,
‘

sa t ha t wh e n my hu s band h a s occa s ion t o fi n d faul t

y
h e do e s i t i n s uch a n ic e way no offe nc e i s e v e r t ak e n
’

T h e d e uc e h e do e s
‘
s aid I I n e v e r r e ad s uch
.

’
blackguard l e t t e r s a s h i s i n my l ife .

U p S h e j u m p e d and ran i n t o t h e n e x t room c ryi ng

, ,

ou t

C hay d e ar do you h e ar wha t C a p t ai n Pollok sa y s

‘
,

t ha t you wri t e t h e m o s t blackguard l e t t e r s

I dar e sa y I do r e p l i e d h e r h u s band n o t t h e l e a s t
,
’

‘
p ut o ut ; and h e wri t e s back t h e mo st i m p e r t i n e n t
’
re pl i e s .

Poor fe llow ! H e di e d a fe w y e ar s aft e rward s of

l iv e r H e n e v e r would allow o n e o f h is offic e r s t o
. .
.
f

b e sa t u p on by anyo n e b u t h i m se l f .

L aughabl e i nc id e n t s com e t o m e a s I wri t e Th e r e .

1 20 RE M I N I S C E N CES OF I NDI A

u s ual i n s uch ca s e s a man who onc e g e t s t h i s di s e a se

,

s e ldom l iv e s lo ng and h e o or fe ll ow ! di e d p e r s i s t i ng
p , ,

i n h i s se lf acc u s a t ion-
.

I w a s t h e fir s t offic e r se n t t o lay o u t N amyan wh ich ,

w a s t h e n t o b e t h e big s t a t io n on t h e I r r a w a d i e Th e .

p lac e w as cov e r e d wi t h gian t t amar i nd t r e e s ; t h e ir -

l e av e s m o s t a s t ri ng e n t had fall e n fo r a hundr e d y e ar s

, , ,

if n o t mor e ; nor had t h e s u n r e a ch e d t h e grou nd

b e n e a t h t h e m for n e arly a s long To bu ild barrack s .

and t o con s t ruc t road s t h e se t r e e s had t o b e c u t down

,
.

I had a s many a s a h und r e d s aw s a t work cu t t i ng u p

t e ak log s for t i mb e r r e qu i r e d by t h e E ngi n e e r d e p ar t

m e n t T h e se m e n w e r e s u p e rvi se d by a s app e r who

.
,

u t i n th e n umb r of m m loy d daily i n Tamil

p e e n e
p e ,

and t h e B urman h e adman p u t t h e nu mb e r s i n i n

B urm e s e wh il s t t h e E uro p e an ov e r s e e r did s o i n
,

E ngl i s h T h e r e w a s t hu s a nom i nal ch e ck b u t i t

.
,

r e qu i r e d a gr e a t d e al of i n sp e c t ion and kn owl e dg e of

t h e languag e s t o com p ar e all t h e figur e s I had a .

man a p ri va t e of o n e of h e r M aj e s t y s r e gi m e n t s
,
’

s e n t t o m e from acro ss t h e ri v e r fro m t h e T o n o o

g p ,

road work s a s ov e rs e e r H e had n o t e nough mon e y

, .

o n h i s arri val t o p a y fo r h i s boa t hi r e acro ss and a s k e d -

,

m e for i t I w a s v e ry bu s y t ha t mon t h and an o ffic e r

.
,

of E ngi n e e r s had arriv e d and w a s l i vi ng wi t h m e H e , .

w a s s u p e ri n t e nd e n t and I h i s a ss i s t an t i n t h e con
, ,

s t ruc t ion o f t h e P rom e and R angoon road At t h e .

e n d of t h e mon t h I t old t h e cl e rk t o mak e u p t h e

accou n t s and t h r e w h i m t h e vouch e r s s e n t i n by t h e
,

s ubordi na t e s H e t ook a l ong t im e d e ci p h e ri ng t h e m

.
,

and a t las t s aid h e could mak e no t h ing of t h e m so I ,

e xam i n e d t h e m my s e lf and foun d t h e figu re s had a ll ,

 A D I S H ON ES T OV ERSEE R 1 21

b e e n al t e r e d b u t s o clum s ily t ha t t h e o rigi nal s could

,

s t ill b e s e e n I t hu s fou nd an ov e rcharg e i n t h e ov e r

.

’
s e e r s accoun t s of ru p e e s N o t bad for o n e .

’
mo n t h s p e cula t io n ! I se n t for t h e o v e r se e r who , ,

s u s e c t i ng no t h i ng cam e ov e r I a t ound d h i m by
p , s e .

d e manding t h e k e y Of h i s ca s h ch e st H e r e fu s e d t o .

giv e i t u p so I t old t h e hav ildar of t h e guard t o mak e

,

a p ri son e r o f h i m H e t h e n gav e t h e k e y u p and

.
,

a s k e d p e rm i s s ion t o go hom e and bri ng h i s accoun t

book I s e n t a guard wi t h h i m and had t h e t r e a s u re
. ,

ch e s t brough t ov e r an d wh e n t h e ov e r s e e r r e t u rn e d
,

wi t h h i s book s t h e r e w a s an i n t e rp ola t ion i n i nk ,

s carc e ly dry D e p o s i t e d by P riva t e S o n e t hou s and

,
‘
.
,

T h e con t e n t s of t h e ca s h box w e r e cou n t e d

’
ru p e e s .
-

ov e r and w e fou nd i n t h e box t h e e xac t s u m wh ich

,

had b e e n ov e rcharg e d wh ich would hav e b e e n a p ,

p pr o r i a t e d i n a fe w day s had I n ot by t h
,
e m e r e st

chanc e di scov e r e d h i s d e falca t ion and t ak e n p ro m p t

ac t ion I k e p t h i m u nd e r arr e s t and s e n t all t h e
.
,

a e r s t o R angoo n b u t i t w a s d e c id e d n o t t o t r y h i m
p p , ,

b u t ord e r h i m bac k t o h i s r e gi m e n t Wh e n h e g o t t o .

M adra s h e had t h e i m p e r t i n e nc e t o s e nd m e a lawy e r s

’

le tte r
Wh e r e a s i t h a s b e e n p r e se n t e d t o u s by our cl i e n t ,

P ri va t e S of h e r M aj e s t y s
.
,
R e gi m e n t t ha t yo u did
’

by forc e se iz e and a pp ro p ria t e a su m of ru p e e s ,

b e longi ng t o t h e s aid p ri va t e an d hav e r e t ai n e d i t you , ,

a r e h e r e wi t h di r e c t e d t o r e m i t t h e s am e t o u s a t o nc e ,

or w e s hall a t onc e t ak e p roc e e d ing s for i t s r e cov e ry i n

t h e H igh C our t s of M adra s
’
.

I t ook no no t ic e of t h e i r l e t t e r nor did I e v e r h e ar ,

agai n on t h e s ub j e c t .
122 RE M I N I SC E N C ES OF I NDIA

A no t h e r ov e r se e r w a s se n t t o m e H e w a s a you n g .

gu nn e r bo rn i n t h e cou n t ry o f E u ro p e an p ar e n t s H e
, .

had b e e n e duca t e d i n I ndia and n o t o nly sp ok e b u t , ,

wro t e all t h e na t i v e languag e s—i n fac t h e w a s a c l e v e r

, ,

fe llow and v e ry p r e p o ss e ss i ng and I ra t h e r l ik e d h i s

, ,

l ook s an d fou nd h i m v e ry u se ful sp e aki ng so m a ny

, ,

languag e s B u t i t do e s n o t do t o e n t ru st t h e s e m e n
.

wi t h l arg e s um s o f G ov e rnm e n t m on e y T h e rai n s .

w e r e ap p roach i n g wh e n all wo rk h ad t o b e s t o p pe d
, ,

and a s h e avy e mban km e n t s w e r e i n p rogr e ss wh ich i f , ,

n o t com l e t e d would b e wa s h e d away by t h e fl ood s

p , ,

work h ad t o b e carri e d on on S unday s a s w e ll a s o n

w e e k day s T h e n e w ov e r se e r had com m e nc e d w e ll
-
.
,

b u t h e s oo n p i ck e d u p B urm e s e and t ook a g i rl of t h e ,

cou n t ry a s w i fe and I fou nd t ha t h e w a s lav i s h ing

,

j e w e l s u p on h e r T h e m o n e y for t h e i r p u rch ase coul d

.

n o t hav e b e e n hon e s t ly gai n e d b u t t o ick a hol e in

p ,

t h e accou n t s of s uch an accom l i s h e d man w a s n o t

p
e a sy. E v e ry mon t h I e xam i n e d h is ch e s t and accou n t s ,

and could d e t e c t no t h i ng wrong y e t I kn e w h e w a s ,

\

robbi ng righ t and l e ft I had t o wri t e t o h i m t o p u s h .

o n work s e v e n on S u nday s H e wro t e back h e w a s .

n o t a h e a t h e n and would n o t wo rk on t h e S abba t h

,
I .

t old my ha v ildar Ca w t h a n t o m oun t o n e of my p on i e s

, , ,

I g o t o n t o ano t h e r and i n a cou p l e o f h ou rs w e mo st

,

u n e x e c t e dly arriv e d
p
‘
D id you wri t e t ha t
. l e t t e r ? I ’

‘
a ske d . Yes fal t e re d t h e man
‘
,
’
Th e n you a r e .
,

r e l i e v e d and t h e hav ildar will t ak e your p lac e a t o nc e

, .

’
H and ov e r t h e k e y s and book s T h e con s t e rna t ion o f .

t h e man w a s gr e a t ; h e b e gg e d t o b e forgiv e n b u t I ,

w a s obdura t e and on e xam i ni ng h i s book s and Ch e s t

,

I found 1 5 0 ru p e e s d e fici e n t wh ich h e had t ak e n only ,

1 1 4 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF I N D I A

fi r s t and la s t man i n N amya u I e s cap e d t h e fe v e r .

t ill t h e v e ry la s t b u t t h e n I t o o g o t a bad do se of i t ;
, , ,

b u t from t w e n t y t o t w e n t y fi v e grai n s of qu in i n e a day -

,

and a s h ift of quar t e r s s oo n drov e i t o u t of m e , .

S i r T r e vor Wh e l e r of t h e I s t B e ngal F u s i l i e r s w a s
, ,

e x e c u t iv e e ngi n e e r a t T hay e t myo H e w a s a wo nd e r -

.

fully p ow e rful man t hough h e d id n o t loo k i t and a , ,

fi r s t ra t e brui s e r
-
O n e day i n m u s t e ri ng t h e wo rk
.
,

e o l e a B urman w a s ra t h e r ob s t r e e rou s so S i r T r e vor

p p ,
p ,

gav e h i m a p u sh T h e man t u rn e d round a s quick a s

.

l igh t n i ng wi t h d/z a w u p rai se d b u t a blow s t raigh t fro m ,

S ir Tr e vor s s hould e r s e n t h i m roll i ng h e ad o v e r h e e l s

'

I t r e s e mbl e d mor e t h e e ffe c t s of a s ho t i n t h e h e ad o f

a rabbi t t han any t h i ng e l se T h e man g o t u p qui t e .

daz e d look e d a t Wh e l e r i n amaz e m e n t and t h e n ran

, ,

for h i s l ife .

W e had a man call e d S m i t h who w a s know n by ,

t h e nam e of t h e S we e p H e w a s a gun n e r had

‘ ’
.
,

charg e of t h e boa t s and w a s a charac t e r H e wro t e , .

t o M c M a st e r t h e Brigad e M aj or
‘
,
wh e n h e S houl d ,

hav e t h e dol e r e ady M ac wro t e back H av e t h e

.
’

,
‘

‘
éoa i r e ady a t s uch an hour Wh e n h e w e n t d own .
’

w i t h a p ar t y of ladi e s h e a s k e d S mi t h how h e s p e l t ,

‘
boa t ‘
S om e p e o p l e s p e ll s i t é o a z b u t I sp e ll s i t
‘
’
- - -
.
,

é o t e h e re pl i e d
’
- - -
, .

T h e roof o f t h e buildi ng wh ich h e l d t h e am mu n i t ion

of o n e of t h e N a t i v e I nfan t ry r e gim e n t s caugh t fi r e .

T h e r e w a s a g e n e ral p an ic b u t t h e S w e e p moun t e d ,
’

t h e roof p ull e d o ff t h e t ha t ch p our e d buck e t s of wa t e r

, ,

a s fa s t a s t h e y w e r e hand e d t o h i m ov e r t h e flam e s ,

and s av e d t h e magaz i n e a s p l ucky a t h i ng a s i t w a s ,

p o ss ibl e for a man t o do con s id e ri ng t h e r e w a s e nough ,

 A M AD D O CT O R 1 25

owd e r in t h e lac t hav wr ck d half t h t a t ion

p p e o e e e e s

had i t e x p lod e d .

S m i t h l i k e mo st E u ro p e an s d e sp i se d t h e na t iv e s
, , .

Though t all a n d a s p lucky a s i t w a s p o ss ibl e for a man

,

t o b e h e w a s n o t p hy s ically s t rong
, O nc e i n B anlong.
,

i n a t t e ndan c e o n our B rigadi e r duri ng a s hoo t i n g

e x p e d i t ion t h e S w e e p s t ruck or p u sh e d S h o a gj a h ou r
, ,

b e st s h e k a r y T h e Burman a t onc e clo se d t h r e w h i s

.
,

o pp on e n t a fe arful cro p p e r fo r l i k e mo s t of h i s rac e

, , ,

h e w a s a good wr e s t l e r and con s id e rabl y a s t on i sh e d

,

t h e gun n e r a t t h e p ro m p t i t ud e of h i s r e t al ia t ion .

A p ar t y of E u ro p e an s w a s p lac e d ov e r a doc t or who

h ad gon e o ff h i s h e ad B u t madm e n a r e v e ry cu nn i ng
.

t h e luna t i c g o t o u t of b e d s ai d h e w i s h e d t o go i n t o
,

t h e ba t h room and dir e c t ly h e cam e t o a window t ook

,

a h e ad e r t h rough i t t h r e w h i m s e l f dow n a w e ll and

, ,

w a s drown e d b e for e h e could b e r e s cu e d N o blam e .

w a s a t t ach abl e t o t h e guard ov e r h im A cour t of .

i nqu i ry w a s h e l d T h e o ffic e r com mandi ng t h e wi ng

.

w a s p r e s id e n t and h e bull i e d and badg e r e d t h e s e r

,

g e an t t o s uch an e x t e n t t ha t h e lo s t all p a t i e nc e and ,

s aid ,
‘
M aj o r i f you w ill t e ll m e wha t you wi s h
’
m e t o sa y I ll sa y i t an d b e don e wi t h i t Th e n h i s
’
.
,

commandi ng offic e r aft e r dri ving h i m t o t h e v e rg e

,

of mu t i ny com p l i m e n t e d h i m on h i s S t raigh t forward

,

e v id e nc e .S o m uch fo r p e r s onal r e m i ni s c e nc e s N ow .

for r e cord s of sp or t .
1 24 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF I N D IA

fi r s t and la s t man i n N amya u I e s cap e d t h e fe v e r .

t ill t h e v e ry la s t b u t t h e n I t o o o t a bad do s e of i t ;
,
g , ,

b u t from t w e n t y t o t w e n t y fi v e grai n s of qui n i n e a day -

,

and a s h ift of quar t e r s s oon drov e i t o u t of m e , .

S i r T r e vor Wh e l e r of t h e I s t B e ngal F u s il i e r s w a s
, ,

e x e c u t i v e e ngi n e e r a t T hay e t myo H e w a s a wo nd e r -

.

fully p ow e rful man t hough h e did n o t look i t and a , ,

fi r s t ra t e brui s e r
-
O n e day i n mu st e ri ng t h e wo rk
.
,

e o l e a B u rman w a s ra t h e r ob s t r e e rou s s o S i r T r e vor

p p ,
p ,

gav e h i m a p u s h T h e man t urn e d round a s quick a s

.

l igh t n i ng wi t h d /z a w u p rai se d b u t a blow s t raigh t fro m ,

S ir T r e vor s S hould e r se n t h im rolli ng h e ad o v e r h e e l s .

I t r e se mbl e d mor e t h e e ffe c t s of a s ho t i n t h e h e ad of

a rabb i t t han any t h i ng e l s e T h e man g o t u p qu i t e .

daz e d look e d a t Wh e l e r i n amaz e m e n t and t h e n ran

, ,

for h i s l ife .

W e had a man call e d S mi t h who w a s known by ,

t h e nam e of
‘
t h e S we e p H e w a s a gun n e r had
’

.
,

charg e of t h e boa t s and w a s a charac t e r H e wro t e ,

.

t o M c M a st e r t h e B rigad e M aj or
‘
, wh e n h e s houl d ,

hav e t h e aol e r e ady M ac wro t e back H av e t h e ‘

’

.
,

aoa i r e ady a t s uch an hour Wh e n h e w e n t d o wn ’

wi t h a p ar t y of ladi e s h e a s k e d S mi t h how h e sp e l t ,

‘
boa t S om e p e o p l e sp e ll s i t é o a i b u t I s p e ll s i t
.
’
‘ - - -
,

é o i e h e re pl i e d
’
- - -
.
,

T h e roof o f t h e buildi ng wh ich h e l d t h e am mun i t io n

of o n e of t h e N a t i v e I nfan t ry r e gim e n t s caugh t fi r e .

Th e r e w a s a g e n e ral p an ic b u t t h e S w e e p mou n t e d
’

t h e roof p ull e d o ff t h e t ha t ch p our e d buc k e t s of wa t e r

, ,

a s fa s t a s t h e y w e r e hand e d t o hi m ov e r t h e flam e s ,

and s av e d t h e magazi n e a s p l ucky a t h i ng a s i t w a s .

p o ss ibl e for a man t o do con s id e ri ng t h e r e w a s e no u gh ,

 CHAPTER VI .

P I G S TI CK I N G
-

Th e boa r, igh ty b oa s m y t h e m e
th e m r
’

W h a t e e t h e w i e m a y sa y
’
r s

M y m o i g t h o gh t m y m id i gh t d e a m
rn n u ,
n r ,

M y h op e t h ou g h ou t t h e d y

—
’
r a .

01d S on g by M O R R IS .

The fi r st sp or t d —H y fi st h u t H t i g o e a n
i n t h e w or l r n un n v r

e c l o se d c o
n t y— E x t a o di a y sp e d a d e du
un r r c e of wil d
r n e n n ra n

b oa —H ow t o ide a p ig C h se d —A f l l —T h i ty fi e m i t e s
r

r r a a r v nu

f om st a t t o fi i h —
-

r r A ot h e c h a se —S t ggl e fo fi st sp e a
n s n r ru r r r

N o t l wa ys t o t h e fa st t —A figh t i g b o r —N a o w e sc a p e of a
a es n a rr

h o e —P t i c u l s o f m y fi st h u t —M y c o m a d e f ll s i t o a
rs ar ar r n r a n

a l a l— K i h b — A h n t e a G t oo —A g oo d t h st
'
ll
’
u -
u t e oa r u n r un r ru

—H ow t o m e e t a c h a gi g b oa —S p e a i g u de d iffi c u l t i e s
r n r r n n r

A h o se k i l l e d
r .

So long a s t h e p e o p l e of t h e s e i s land s hol d t h e i r

s u r e macy i n t h e E a s t n e v e r will t h e i mmor t al v e rs e s
p , ,

o n e of wh ich h e ad s t h i s cha p t e r b e fo rgo t t e n A ma n , .

may hav e S lai n h i s h undr e d s of t ig e rs h e may hav e ,

kill e d a h e ca t om b of big gam e i n A frica and e l s e

wh e r e b u t i f h e h a s n o t follow e d t h e m igh t y boar h e
, ,

h a s n o t t a s t e d t h e d e l igh t s of t h e m o s t fa s ci na t i ng and
i nvigora t ing sp or t i n t h e world .

A nyon e may kill a t ig e r by p o t t i ng h i m from a t re e

 B O AR H U N T I NG
-
12 7

o r a m a c /2a ! b u t i t r e qu i r e s a m a n t o rid e down and

, ,

s e ar a boar
p ,
.

T h e v i ci ss i t ud e s and dang e r s of t h e sp or t a r e many .

M an and hor se a r e p i t t e d agai n s t o n e of t h e mo s t

p luc ky an d s avag e of w ild b e a st s T h e ground i s .

g e n e ra lly e x e c rabl e t h e r e can b e no cran i ng a hu n t e r

o f t h e boar mu s t ri d e n o t onl y s t raigh t b u t h i s hard e st , ,

if h e i n t e n d s t o t r y con clu s ion s w i t h h i s fo e .

Fi d a d e gl e e y e
rm han n a

M u st b e a c q i e wh o w o l d a sp i
u r , u re

T o se e t h e w i l d b oa d i e
’
-
r .

Th e r e i s e v e ry t h i ng i n i t s favou r and no t h i ng t o b e ,

sai d agai n s t i t T h e r e i s j olly com p an ion s h i p fri e ndly

.
,

ri val r y a h e al t h giv i ng sp or t j u s t s uffi c i e n t dang e r t o

,
-
,

m ak e i t e x ci t i ng and a m an m u st b e p a st p rayi ng for

,

wh o hav i ng o nc e t a st e d i t s d e l igh t s will forg e t i t a s

, ,

long a s h e h a s l ife an d
Wh e n di m m e d m a d s p owe
’
age h ath n h oo r s,

An d e v e ry n e r v e u n b ra c e d ,
Th e j o ys o f t h e
p i ll be o s a st i
w ll st ur ,

m e m o y s t bl e t s t a c e d
’
In r a r .

F o W i t h t h fri e d W h om de a t h h a t h sp a e d
r e n s r ,

W h e l i fe c a e e i s d o e
n
’
s r r n ,

W e l l t l k o f t h e d g e s w h e sh e d
’
a an r e av ar ,

An d t h e
’

t u sh e s w e h a v e wo n .

A l as ! wh e n I t h i nk of t h e j oll y day s I p a ss e d i n my
you t h and com p ar e t h e m w i t h t h e humdru m e xi s t e nc e
,

I am forc e d t o u nd e rg o i n t h i s land of cold m i s t and , ,

rai n i n p e nu ry and old a g e I am almo s t i ncl in e d t o

, ,

‘
quarr e l w i t h l ife and t o e xclai m ,
Oh why did I n o t ,

d i e l ik e s o many b e t t e r m e n of m y t im e i n t ha t s unny
cl i m e and i n t h e day s wh e n I w a s ha p p y and young ?
,
’
1 28 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF IND IA

But r e p i n i ng i s u s e l e ss and I will h e r e e nd e avour t o

,

r e call s om e h un t i ng s c e n e s of t h e d i s t an t and i rre ~

vocabl e p a s t .

I hav e al r e ady s aid t ha t b e for e I w a s s ix y e ar s old

I w a s fam il iar w i t h hog hu n t i ng a s a sp e c t a t or I w a s
-
.

u nd e r e igh t e e n wh e n I t ook my fi rs t sp e ar wh ich w a s ,

a t B e d ar i n t h e N izam s dom in ion s

’
.
,

S om e y e ar s aft e rward s a p ar t y of u s w e n t o u t abou t

fi ft e e n m il e s from B e zwada t o b e a t a cou p l e of i s ola t e d
,

h ill s ; i n fro n t t h e r e w a s an e x t e n s iv e b u t e nclo se d

p lai n ,
and i n t h e r e ar and for s om e way o n bo t h s id e s

h e avy j u n gl e r e p o r t e d t o b e full of p ig and sp o t t e d

,

d e e r A ll my com rad e s e l e c t e d t o u se t h e ri fl e i n
.

r e fe r e nc e t o t h e sp e ar I w a s t h e onl y o n e moun t e d
p . .

Wh il st t h e y t ook u p t h e i r p o s i t ion s on variou s rock s

n e ar t h e foo t of t h e h ill s I e n s conc e d myse l f hor se
, , ,

an d s yc e wi t h e x t ra S p e ar b e h i n d a h igh h e dg e
, .

I hav e n e v e r s e e n a coun t ry s i m ilar t o t h i s i n any

o t h e r p ar t of I ndia Owing t o t h e nu m e rou s hog s
.
,

t h e cul t i va t or s had fe nc e d i n t h e i r fi e ld s w i t h s t iff

h e dg e s mad e of wa t t l e s and bamboo s i n t e rlac e d wh ich ,

you e i t h e r had t o cl e ar or com e a cro pp e r fo r t h e r e ,

w a s no ho p e of t h e i r giv i ng way b e for e t h e w e igh t of

man or b e a st Tha t t h e y only p ar t ially an s w e r e d t h e
.

p pur o se for wh ich t h e y w e r e e r e c t e d w a s e v id e n t for ,

t h e fi e ld s o f ( M a l i and p ul se s how e d s ign s of ravag e s

by t h e p orci n e t rib e T o g e t a t t h e grai n t h e hog s

.
,

mu st hav e sp ru ng ov e r t h e fe nc e s bo t h i n goi ng i n and

co m i ng o u t s o I kn e w t ha t i f any p ig s brok e t h e work
, ,

w a s c u t o u t for m e and my nag F or t una t e ly I had

.
,

t rain e d my t hr e e hor s e s t o cl e ar hurdl e s for duri ng ,

my sp ar e t i m e i n Co n d a p i ll y I hardl y kn e w how t o
1 56 REM IN I SC E N C E S OF I NDIA

ar l e ng t h s and se e m e d b goi ng w e ll
’
s y e t t o e
s
p e .

’
w i t h i n h im se lf a t a lo ng s wingi n g can t e r I f you do n t .

h
’

p r e ss you r i
p g from t e v e ry s t ar t you ll n e v e r ca t ch

h i m M y ho rse r e qu ir e d n o s p ur t o u rg e h i m on
. .

H e w a s i n h is p ri m e abou t s i x full of p l uck and h ard

, , ,

a s nail s and w e w e n t fully a m il e j um p ing ov e r

, ,

ob s t acl e s e v e ry hu ndr e d or a h undr e d and fift y yard s .

T h e s ow s s t ill l e d t h e way t h e foam w a s d ri pp i ng from ,

’
t h e boar s cha p s and h i s ol d e y e s e v e ry now and t h e n
,

look e d a t m e o u t of t h e corn e r o f t h e l id s H e w a s .

g e t t ing ril e d I sa w h i m s t u mbl e for t h e fir s t t i m e

.

ov e r t h e n e x t h e dg e and kn e w h e would n o t go m uch

,

far t h e r ; a s my hor se fle w ov e r t h e s am e fe nc e t h e ,

s ow s w e r e v i s ibl e b u t wh e r e w a s t h e boar ? I w a s
,

n o t l e ft long i n doub t for h e had lai n clo se t o t h e

,

h e d g e ; n o s oon e r h ad my nag s hoofs t ouch e d t h e ’

grou nd t han w i t h a whoof whoof ! h e t hun d e r e d a t ,

our h e e l s F or t h e n e x t t h r e e or four m i nu t e s I had

.

t o u s e t h e p e r s uad e r s t o k e e p my ho r s e fro m b e ing

cu t . I n s t e ad o f j um p i ng ov e r t h e n e x t fe nc e I ,

s ki r t e d i t follow e d by t h e boar n o t t h r e e fe e t b e h i nd
,

me . F i ndi ng I had t h e l e g s of h i m I dr e w i n t h e ,

r e i n s and allow e d my foe t o g e t wi t h in a foo t o r s o o f

’

m y s t e e d s quar t e r s t h e n t urn i ng rou nd i n t h e saddl e

, , ,

w i t h a bac kward p rod I s t abb e d t h e boar a s hard a s I

could i n t h e h e ad b u t t h e ai m w a s n o t good t h e blad e ,

w e n t i n a l i t t l e b e l ow t h e e y e s t h ro ugh t h e ba se o f ,

t h e no s t ril s glanc e d t o t h e l e ft and i t w a s a s m uch a s

, ,

I could do t o w i t hdraw my w e ap on .

T h e boar s t ood s haking h is h e ad ; t h e mor e h e

s hook i t t h e m or e blood h e o t i n h i s e y e s and duri n
, g g ,

h i s i nd e ci s io n l wh e e l e d rou nd and w e n t a t h i m a s ,
1 32 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

e ncou n t e r T h e boar al mo s t sp rang a t m e b u t t h e

.
,

blad e caugh t h i m u nd e r t h e j aw s and cam e o u t t h rough

t h e t o p o f t h e n e ck s e v e ri ng t h e sp i n e and h e roll e d , ,

ov e r I had t o l e t go t h e sp e ar and my ho rs e sp rang

.
,

cl e ar of t h e fo e .

I w a s glad t h e s t ruggl e w a s ov e r I t had la st e d

‘

‘
j u st t h i r t y fi v e m i nu t e s I w a s p e r sp i ri ng l i k e a frog
-
.

on a l og ; my hor se could n o t ha v e gon e ano t h e r

’

m il e a t t h e sam e p ac e I w a s o ff h i m loo se n e d t h e .
,

gi r t h s t urn e d h i s h e ad t o t h e w i nd and car e fully

, ,

e xam i n e d h i m F o r t una t e ly wh e n h e w e n t s uch a

.
,

cro pp e r h e had fall e n on h i s s id e and h is kn e e s w e r e

, ,

u n t ouch e d ; b u t s om e of t h e sp l i n t e r s from t h e brok e n

S haft had e n e t ra t e d h i s quar t e r and gav e m e s om e
p
t roubl e t o e x t rac t
*
M y s yc e s oo n a pp e are d and w e n t
.
,

back for cool i e s I had t o r e s t my h or s e for t h e se

.
,

fi e ld s had no ga t e s a s ou t l e t s T h e na t iv e s clamb e r .

ov e r t h e fe nc e s a t c e r t ain p lac e s wh e r e h ol e s for t h e i r ,

t o e s a r e l e ft and t hough i t had b e e n ra t h e r e xci t i ng

,

duri ng t h e hun t wi t h a fr e s h hor s e t aking t h e se, ,

ob st acl e s a t a fly i t w a s v e ry di ffe r e n t i n col d blood

,

and on a fagg e d s t e e d H ow e v e r p icking o u t t h e .

,

low e st p lac e s I n e go t ia t e d t h e m s ucc e ss ful ly and g o t

, ,

back t o cam p t o fi nd t ha t my com rad e s had kill e d a

cou p l e of s ow s and had br e akfa s t r e ady I did n o t
, .

t ak e long t o p ou r a fe w cha t t i e s of col d wa t e r ov e r m e ,

and t h e n j o i n e d t h e m a t t h e i r m e al .

I n t h e aft e rnoon I p e r s uad e d o n e of t h e E ngi n e e r s

Ne ve r le a v e a sp l n i t e r fr o m a b a m b oo in a wo u n d . S om e
ye a r s a ft e r wa r ds o ne of t h e i
n c e st fe ll o ws i n t h e 6 8 t h Q ueen
’
s di e d
of l oc kj w t h
a r o gh
u a sm a l l sp l n t e r i i n h is ch n i ,
wh ic h n o on e t h o u gh t

an yt h i g o f
n .
 A S P I LL 1 33

to rid e i n p r e fe r e nc e t o s hoo t ing Th i s t i m e w e s e p a

.

ra t e d t h e s hoo t e r s goi ng o n e way and w e t w o ano t h e r

, .

I t h i nk a s ound e r t ha t brok e w a s h e ad e d by t h e
se cond o f t h e t w o boar s w e had di st urb e d i n t h e
morn ing H e t ook acro ss a p lai n cov e re d wi t h t h ick
.

p rickly bu s h e s i n wh ich w e lo s t s igh t of h im s e v e ral

,

t i m e s b u t r e cov e r e d h i m aft e r a wh il e e ach t i m e

, He .

w a s maki ng for t h e K i s t na R i v e r wh e r e t h e r e w e r e a ,

l o t of i s land s d e n s e ly cov e r e d wi t h long gra ss wh e r e

, , ,

i f h e o nc e g o t i n h e would b e p e rfe c t ly s afe

, I had .

t h e l e g s of my com p an ion b u t i n s uch grou nd w e had

,

t o rid e a t a mod e ra t e p ac e fo r fe ar of ov e r s hoo t i ng,

our quarry S o w e w e r e n e v e r far a p ar t and wh e n

.
,

w e g o t cl e ar of t h e j ungl e an u n i n t e rru p t e d p lain a s

, ,

fl a t a s a board and a s s moo t h a s a lawn lay b e for e u s , .

T h e boar w a s only a fe w hu nd r e d yard s ah e ad H e re .

w e rac e d for t h e s p e ar ; I g o t wi t h i n p roddi ng d i s

t anc e,
m y fri e nd a fe w yard s b e h i nd t o my righ t I t .

i s a m i s t ak e t o p ok e a t t h e p ig ; hold your sp e ar
s t e ady ,
i n a l i n e d i r e c t ly b e h i nd t h e S hould e r blad e -
,

and l e t i t go i n wi t h t h e i m p e t u s i m p ar t e d t o i t by
t h e s p e e d of your hor s e M y blad e w a s wi t h i n hal f
.

a foo t ; i n ano t h e r se co nd t h e cov e t e d s p e ar would

hav e b e e n mi n e b u t t h e boar t urn e d a t righ t angl e s
,
.

I ov e r sho t t h e mark b u t t h e E ngin e e r m e t t h e boar

,

h i s s p e ar w e n t righ t t h rough h i m and i n t o t h e grou nd ,

and s u ch a cro p p e r a s hor se rid e r and p ig w e n t ov e r

, ,

I n e v e r sa w .

I t hough t t h e man would b e kill e d a t l e a s t and h is ,

h or s e s bac k brok e n T h e boar had brok e n t h e s haft

.

and w a s cl e ar of t h e sp e ar t h e blad e p or t ion o f wh ich

,

w a s s t ill s t icki ng u p righ t i n t h e grou nd and wi t h a ,

1 34 R E M I N I SCE N C E S OF INDIA
’
v ici ou s glan c e arou nd h e mad e for my fri e nd s p ro s
t ra t e body I w a s rou nd by t ha t t im e and i n t e r p o se d
.
,

giving t h e fo e a good dig and wi t hdrawi ng t h e s pe ar ,

o n wh ich h e t u rn e d all h i s wra t h on m e T h e b e ast .

se e m e d t o b e ar a charm e d l ife t h e blood w a s p ou ri ng

i n a s t r e am fro m t h e h ol e mad e by t h e fi r s t spe ar

t h rough h i s body I h ad giv e n h i m t hr e e t h ru st s w e ll
.

i n b u t h e w a s s t ill full of figh t ; i n o n e h e adlong

,

charg e my s p e ar w e n t i n a t t h e back j u st m i s s i ng ,

t h e sp in e and cam e o u t b e tw e e n h i s h i nd l e g s et he
y
-
, ,

ran u p t h e s haft and c u t t h e s ol e of my boo t wi t h h i s

l e ft t u s k a s cl e an a s i f i t h ad b e e n don e by a razo r I .

w i t hdr e w my w e ap on and u s i ng i t a s t h e B e ngal e se

, ,

d o t h e i r s I j obb e d down caugh t h i m j u s t b e h i nd t h e

, ,

h e ad i n t h e c e n t r e of t h e n e ck and down h e fe ll t o
, ,

ri se n o mor e .

Wh il st I w a s fin i sh i ng t h e boar my fri e nd s hor se ,

’

had r e cov e r e d h is fe e t and se e m e d t o b e n on e t h e

,

wor se fo r h i s sp ill I found t h e ri d e r s t u n n e d an d h i s

.
,

l e ft arm di sloca t e d a t t h e e lbow b u t h e s oon cam e t o , ,

and I g o t h im i n t o t h e s addl e R iding along t h e riv e r .

ban k I hail e d a boa t and gav e t h e m e n a co u p l e o f

, ,

ru p e e s t o row t h e i nval id bac k t o B e zwada wh e r e t h e ,

doc t o r s oon p u t h i m t o righ t s H ors e and rid e r h a d .

roll e d ov e r t h e p ig and had n o t a s cra t ch I l e d t h e .

nag back b u t m y own s t all ion w a s ra t h e r i ncl i n e d t o

,

figh t so I w a s n o t s orry t o s e e a s yc e com i ng my way

, ,

t o whom I co n s ign e d t h e wai f .

M y n e x t hog h un t i ng adv e n t ur e w a s a t B e dar I

-
.

w a s shoo t ing w i t h H e n e gan of t h e A r t ill e ry t h e gam e

,

w a s p ri nci p ally an t e l o e
p A S t h e grou.nd w a s
p r e t t y
o p e n w e t ook ou r hor se s and s p e ar s wi t h u s t o run
,
1 36 R E M I N I SCE N C E S OF INDIA

boar roll o v e r o n h i s s id e t h e s haft brok e n i n t w o and

, ,

t h e b e a s t a t h i s la s t ga sp . I did n o t t h i nk of H e n e gan ,

o r wha t had b e com e of h im u n t il my p ri z e had br e a t h e d

,

h i s la s t and aft e r adm iri ng i t s grand p ro p or t ion s I

, , ,

look e d abou t for m y fri e nd I co uld se e h i m nowh e r e

. .

T h e na t i v e w a s g e s t icula t i ng and o ff h i s hor s e ; s o I

,

can t e r e d back t o se e wha t had ha pp e n e d H e n e gan .

w a s u p t o h i s n e ck i n a p uddl e h i s h o r s e o n h i s s id e a
,

l i t t l e o n t h e righ t ; b u t o n my i nq u i ri ng wha t w a s t h e
,

m a t t e r t h e s t rang e hor s e man s aid i t w a s o nly a a a i a a i

,
’
-
’
,

or qu ick s and T h e s yc e s ran u p fa st ; w e t i e d t h e ir

.

t urban s t og e t h e r t h r e w t h e e n d t o H e n e gan who h e ld

, ,

o n wh il s t w e haul e d away wi t h m igh t and main and ,

s oo n had t h e p l e a s ur e of se e i ng h i m on fi rm grou nd .

I t old h i m t o mou n t o n m y ho r s e and t o rid e back t o ,

cam p t o cl e an se h i m se l f o f t h e fil t h t ha t cl ung t o h i m .

T h e s yc e s s oo n col l e c t e d a l o t of bru s hwood and .

w e w e r e abou t t o lay t h e m on t h e s urfac e t o form a

s o r t o f bridg e wh e n I sa w a vul t ur e s w e e p ing do w n

,

o n t o t h e boar T h e horse s e e m e d i n n o dang e r I

. .

w a s n o t goi ng t o allow my boar t o b e com e t h e p r e y

o f t h e se ob s c e n e bi rd s so b e for e e x t rica t i ng t h e nag

, ,

I mad e t h e s yc e s drag t h e hog clo s e t o u s We .

t h e n fou nd t ha t o nly t h e h ind l e g s of t h e h or se w e r e

-

i n t h e qui ck s and — h i s n e ck for e q uar t e r and h e ad

,
-
,

w e re on t h e hard —and t ha t t h e a a l a a i w a s of s mall ’

-
’

e xte nt . B u t h e w a s a v e ry larg e wal e r n o t e a sy t o ,

m ov e ; and i t t ook all our S t r e n g t h — and t h e s t range

na t iv e h e l p e d u s righ t w e ll —b e fo re w e g o t h i m o n t o
t h e s ol id e ar t h B y t h i s t i m e t h e vul t u r e s had a ss e mbl e d
.

i n larg e fl ock s and se e m e d i ncl i n e d t o d i s p u t e wi t h u s

,

t h e p o sse ss io n of ou r quarry ; so I had t o r e mai n o n

 HUNTI N G AT G U N T O O R 1
57

g u ard w i t h a S p e ar t o k e e p t h e m away wh il s t t h e t w o ,

s yc e s s l ung t h e boar o n a s t ou t bamboo a n d carri e d ,

h i m t o t h e bungalow .

A c i vil ian who m w e kn e w had a b e a t for hog n e ar

G u n t oo r . T h e r e w e r e se ldom p ig s t h e re ; b u t occa
s i o n a ll a s ound e r woul d t ak e o ss e s s io n of a half dri e d
y p
-

t ank , and com m i t d e p r e da t ion s o n t h e grai n fi e l d s -

.

N e w s w a s brough t i n of a s ou nd e r and t ha t fift y ,

b e a t e r s would b e r e ady n e x t day t o dri v e t h e p ig s o u t .

O nc e cl e ar of t h e mar s h t h e y would hav e t o go a t l e a st

,

t hr e e m il e s b e for e finding any o t h e r cov e r u nl e ss t h e y ,

brok e back t h rough t h e b e a t e r s ; t h e n t h e r e w e r e a

fe w s mall h ill s cov e r e d w i t h low S h rub and h e r e and ,

t h e r e mar s h y p lac e s wi t h long r e e d s and gra ss i n wh i ch

a s ol i t ary p ig m igh t t ak e r e fug e wh ich t h e y would n o t ,

afford sh e l t e r t o a s ou nd e r I t i s t h e unfor e se e n t ha t .

oft e n ha pp e n s T h e r e w e r e o nly t h r e e of u s o u t — T O
. .
,

and I T w a s a C iv il ian a cap i t al sp o r t s man and w e ll

. .
, ,

mou n t e d O and l w e r e s ubal t e rn s n o t ov e rbu rd e n e d

. .

wi t h mo n e y O ur hor se s coul d go ; b u t o ur t hr e e
.
,

wh e n p u rcha s e d had n o t co st wha t any o n e of T s

,
.

had do n e T s w e r e p ur e A rab s b u t t h e rac e i s n o t

. .
’

alway s t o t h e s wift O w a s o n e of t h e b e s t rid e r s I

. .

e v e r cam e acro s s a l igh t w e igh t and a s good a fe llow

, ,

a s e v e r l iv e d W e w e r e k e p t on t h e mov e t h e s ow s
.
,

man y of t h e m barr e n k e p t br e aki ng away and w e , ,

cha s e d se v e ral b e fo re w e di s cov e r e d t h e i r se x Th e r e .

i s a boar a t t ach e d t o e v e ry s ound e r I f t h e s ow s a r e .

m any t h e re may b e t w o ; b u t o n e i s t h e ma s t e r and

, ,

t h e o t h e r t hough k e e ing com any giv e s t h e larg e r a

,
p p ,

wid e b e r t h At la s t a gr e a t ou t cry and a s ca t t e ri ng

.

o f t h e cool i e s d e no t e d s o m e t hi ng u nu s ual and wav i ng ,

1 38 RE M I N I SCE N C ES OF I NDIA

of arm s and t u rban clo t h s p oi n t e d t h e way w e sh ould -

go S ki r t i ng t h e Ne e d w e rod e a s h ard a s w e coul d

.
,

b u t qu ick a s w e w e r e t h e boar h ad b e e n qu ick e r for

, , ,

h e w a s w e l l a h e ad o f u s b e for e w e g o t cl e ar of t h e
mar s hy grou nd .

H e had hal f a m il e s t ar t of u s t h e b i ll s w e r e only a

m il e a n d a hal f off and w e rod e a s i f our v e ry l i v e s ,

d e p e nd e d o n t h e r e s ul t B u t i t w a s a ho p e le ss t a s k ; .

t h e boar g o t i n t o t h e s c rub H ow e v e r w e w e r e n o t .
,

‘
far b e h i nd h i m ; and i n s t e ad of l yi ng by or doi ng ,

o ss um h e cro s s e d t h e low rang e and mad e for s om e

’ ’

p , ,

mar s hy bi t s b e yo nd T had l e d ; i nd e e d n e i t h e r O . .
, .

nor I had a t t e m p t e d t o wr e st t h e l e ad from h i m I t .

would b e qu i t e t i m e e nough t o s t ruggl e for t h e sp e ar

wh e n w e g o t clo se r A cro ss t h e o p e n T g o t o n t e rm s
. .

w i t h t h e boar O lyi ng a l e ng t h b e h i nd wh il s t I had

, .
,

b e e n t h rown o u t hav i ng b e e n m i sl e d b y a sow wh ich

,

brok e away b u t fi nding o u t m y m i st ak e I had cl e ar e d ,

a b o u lgj e r o n t h e h ill s id e and w a s mak i ng u p l e e way , ,

wh e n j u s t a s T w a s wi t h i n p roddi ng di st an c e o f t h e
, .

’
boar s s id e h i s horse b e cam e ra t h e r r e s t iv e
, H e ari ng .

O t hund e ri ng along b e h i nd h i m T mad e a d e s p e ra t e

.
, .

l u ng e cu t t i ng away a fe w bri s t l e s b u t fail ing t o S how

, ,

blood T h e boar j i nk e d ; O s e iz e d t h e o p p or t un i t y
. .
,

and drov e h i s bla d e w e ll i n and t h e fi rs t sp e ar w a s ,

won .

T h e boar now t u rn e d t o bay and a s I had t ak e n a ,

s h or t c u t and w a s t h e n t h e n e ar e st h e mad e fo r m e
-
, ,
.

O and T w e r e t h e n n e ck and n e ck T b e ing n o t

. .
,
.

ov e rp l e a se d a t t h e t u rn affai r s had t ak e n H e g e n e rally .

u se d t o hun t alon e and had t h u s kill e d a fai r numb e r o f

,

p ig s H e d id n o t l ik e t h e L i e u t e nan t t aki ng t h e s e ar
.
p
 A P LUC K Y S P EAR 1 39

from h i m I m e t t h e boar fai rl y I ho p e d t o g e t my

. .

blad e i n t o t h e ch e s t ; b u t a s t h e b ru t e charg e d w i t h
h i s h e ad p ro t e c t i ng h i s body m y sp e ar w e n t t h rough ,

h i s brai n and h e d i e d i ncon t i n e n t ly

, .

T h e s ound e r wi t h t h e o t h e r boar had b e e n mark e d

down and aft e r t iffi n w e look e d h i m u p S carc e ly had
, .

t h e b e a t e r s gon e i n wh e n t h e r e w a s a com mo t ion and

, ,

a fai r s i z e d boar charg e d m e wi t hou t any p rovoca t ion

-
.

I had j u st t i m e t o urg e my st e e d i n t o a gallo p (n e v e r

r e c e iv e a hog a t a hal t ; charg e a t h im ) and S p e are d ,

h i m O and T w e r e n e ck and n e c k T h e boar ma d e

. .
‘

. .

for t h e m ; O sp e ar e d ov e r t h e r e in s T on t h e off
.
, .

S i de ,and t h e y roll e d t h e fo e ov e r b u t bo t h lo s t t h e i r ,

w e a p on s I cam e u p hand ov e r hand ; t h e boar wi t h

.
,

t w o long s e ar s i n h i m mad e for m e and t o s e ar w a s

p , p ,

i m p o ss ibl e fo r i t w a s a s much a s I coul d do t o avoi d

,

t h e t w o s haft s wh i ch s way e d abou t l i k e p e ndul um s

. ,

and w e r e h e avily w e igh t e d a t t h e bu t t s Th e n O d id . .

a p l ucky t h ing : n e aring t h e boar h e ru sh e d p a st h i m , ,

and a s t h e bru t e ch ar g e d cl e v e rly s e i z e d o n e shaft

, , ,

an d t hough h e g o t a na st y blow o n t h e k n e e c a p wi t h -

t h e o t h e r h e wi t hdr e w t h e o n e h e had s e i z e d cam e

, ,

u
p from t h e r e ar and wi t h a fo rward
,
t h ru st
,
s itte d
p ,

t h e p i g from e n d t o e n d W e had n o fur t h e r l uck t ha t

.

day T w a s di sgu s t e d and did n o t e x e r t h im s e l f e i t h e r

.
,

t o S how u s m or e s or t o r t o ob t ai n i t h im se lf S o th e
p .

n e x t day w e wi s h e d h i m adi e u wi t h many t hank s for ,

t h e ho s p i t al i t y S h own u s ; b u t h e n e v e r a s k e d any o f

u s t o j o i n h i m i n ano t h e r h un t H e w a s v e ry di ffe r e n t .

from Tom Pr e nd e rga s t wh o p r e fe rre d t ha t h i s gu e s t s,

s houl d e t t h e s or t ra t h e r t han t ha t h e s hould h av e

g p
t h e l uck h i m s e l f .
1 49 R E M I N I SC E N C E S OF INDIA

I will o nly giv e o n e mor e r e m i n i s c e nc e M a c M a s t e r ,

of t h e 3 6 t h a no t e d sp or t s man and na t ural i s t a good

, ,

s ho t and a cl i p p ing rid e r ; Go s t l i ng of t h e C iv il S e r ,

v i c e ; C l e rk o f my cor p s ; W e ldon of t h e Pol ic e w e r e

, , ,

o u t wi t h m e i n s om e d ifficul t ground wh e r e occa ,

s i o n a l l y a fe w
p ig s w e r e t o b e found W e had fai r .

l uc k ; t w o boars had b e e n kill e d o n e sp e ar fall ing t o ,

M a c M a st e r an d t h e o t h e r t o Go s t l i ng who won i t
, ,

t h rough t h e s p e e d and bo t t o m o f h i s gray A rab (I

bough t t h e h or s e t h e r e an d t h e n an d h e w a s t h e b e st ,

for hog I e v e r rod e ) T h e r e w a s t h e n an i n t e rval

. .

I n t h e aft e rnoo n s b e a t W e ldo n g o t t h e s p e ar b u t

’

coul d n o t e x t rac t i t agai n ; t h e boar charg e d h i m

b e for e b e i ng t ouch e d and ov e r roll e d man and hor s e
,
.

M a c M a s t e r w a s com i ng from o n e way ; I w a s charging

dow n from t h e v e ry o pp o s i t e T h e hor s e s t ruggl e d i n
.

vai n t o ri s e ; t h e boar gav e h i m ano t h e r ga sh and ,

t h e n w e n t for h i s ma s t e r who w a s lyi ng fac e dow n

,

ward s a pp ar e n t ly i n se n s ibl e
,
M a c M a s t e r and I bo t h
.

d rov e ou r sp e ar s w e ll i n t h e fo rm e r on t h e ou t e r and
, ,

I o n t h e i n n e r s id e t h e boar fe ll righ t o n t o W e l d on ,

and M a c M a s t e r s hor s e cl e ar e d bo t h J u s t t h e n C l e rk
’

sa w a larg e boar and gav e cha s e ,

Go s t l i ng h e s i t a t e d .

a mo m e n t wh e t h e r h e s hould com e t o o ur a ss i s t anc e ,

o r di s p u t e t h e s p e ar wi t h C l e rk h e fi nally d e c id e d o n
t h e la t t e r b u t C l e rk w a s t oo n e ar and wo n
, , .

Go st l i ng hav i ng kill e d t h e boar i n h i s charg e ,

M a c M a s t e r wh e e l e d rou nd and w e h e ard fe arful ,

u t t e ranc e s W e ldon w a s s t ruggl ing t o g e t cl e ar of

.

t h e incubu s o n t h e t o p of h i m b u t coul d mak e no ,

i m p r e ss ion o n t h e h ug e ma s s W e di s mou n t e d a s
.

qu ickly a s w e coul d b u t i t r e quir e d all our s t r e ng t h t o

,
 [ 142
]

C H A PT E R V I I .

E L E P H ANT S .

T wo i i
v a r e t e s of I n di an k i ll t h e m —G a m e i t h e
e le ph a n t s — H ow to n

P o m e di t i t — P
r h a e of t w
s r c i fl —B r m e s sh i k i e
u rc s o r es u e ar s

T h i di l ike of E ope a s—M osq i t o s— H ow t o i m e t

e r s ur n u e c rc u v n

t h e m —M y fi t e l e p h t h
rs t —T e e l e e c h e s—N a t i e
an o ke y
un r -
v c o r

dyi g ou t —B g m y fi st e l e ph t—A d di sa pp i t m e t
n a r an sa o n n

D O yl y a d M o g G o g G ye s st t e e l e p h t —G l l t y of
’ ’
n un un a an a an r

a y ou n g o wa —H a b i t s of e l e ph t —A e c dot —E l e p h a t s
s r an s n es n

d o o t b e e d i c p t i i ty—D iffi l t y f fi di g a go od h e k
n r n a v cu o n n s ar

e l e ph t —M h o t s —T h e i
an a d t i e s —D e a t h
u f We dde b r u o r u rn

N e c e i t y o f e l e p h t s fo sh oot i g t i ge s—T h e i f i t u e
ss an r n r r u rn r

B a t t e y fo sp o t —H ow t m g e l p h t —A p i t c h e d b tt l e
r r r o ana e e an s a .

T H E R E a r e t w o d i s t i nc t S p e ci e s of e l e p han t — t h e A frican

and t h e A s ia t ic b u t t h e la t t e r a r e r e p r e s e n t e d b y t w o
vari e t i e s—t h e g on da /i s o r t ho s e hav i n g t u s k s and t h e
, ,

ri a e é a a /i s or t u s kl e ss on e s
,
T h e la t t e r a r e found .

s ca t t e r e d abroad h e r e t h e r e and e v e rywh e r e b u t a r e

, ,

ri nci ally t o b e found i n C e yl on and S u ma t ra Th e re

p p .

a re men l i k e S ir S amu e l B ak e r R og e r s Garrow

, , , ,

M icha e l and a fe w o t h e r s who can boa st of havi ng

, ,

s lai n t h e ir hu ndr e d s of t h e se p achyd e rm s b u t t h e s p or t ,

i s n e arl y a t h ing of t h e p a s t i n I ndia Th e y a r e n o w .

p ro t e ct e d t h roughou t ou r p rovi nc e s b u t n ot a y e ar ,

p a s se s t ha t s om e rog ue e l e han t
p do e s n ot t ak e t o

kill ing p e o p l e and d e s t royi ng t h e i r granari e s and t h e ,

 H OW T O K I L L E LE P H A N T S 1 43

coll e c t or o f t h e d i s t r i c t i s only t o o glad t o avail h i m se l f

of t h e s e rvic e s of any man who w ill go o u t t o s lay t h e
cr e a t ur e I t i s a s w e ll t h e r e for e t o know how t o d e al
.
, ,

wi t h t h e m T h e na t iv e s of B u rma and A ss a m fi r e
.

b e h i nd t h e s hould e r and I hav e s e e n many mon s t e r s

,

who hav e b e e n so kill e d b u t a s a rul e t h e E uro p e an ,

confin e s h i m se l f t o t h e h e ad s ho t s Th e r e a r e s i x .

vul n e rabl e p lac e s

F i r s t t h e bum p b e t w e e n t h e e y e s wh ich s hould b e
, ,

fi r e d a t fro m t h e fron t low down and u p ward s , .

S e co nd t h e t e m p l e b e t w e e n t h e corn e r of t h e e y e
, ,

and t op of e a r Th i s s ho t s hould b e fi r e d e i t h e r fro m

.

t h e righ t or l e ft h al f fac e fro m t h e fron t s l igh t ly u p

-
, ,

ward s and backward s o r i n t h e c e n t r e of t h e hollow o r

,

t e m p l e e quidi s t an t fro m t h e co rn e r o f t h e e y e t o t h e
,

t o p of t h e e a r O f all S ho t s t h i s i s t h e e a s i e s t t o kill
.
,

wi t h and t h e s afe s t t o t h e h un t e r b e cau s e b e ing o n

, , ,

on e s id e i f t h e s ho t d o e s n o t p rov e fa t al and t h e
, ,

e l e han t e i t h e r charg e s o r i nvol un t arily ru s h e s fo rward

p ,

a s mo s t an i mal s a r e a t t o do o n s udd e nly r e c e i vi ng a

p
wound t h e sp or t s man will n o t b e i n t h e l i n e of charg e
,

o r fl igh t and will b e l e s s l iabl e t o b e t ram p l e d u p on

,

t han i n fi ring t h e fro n t s ho t .

T h ird a sp o t j u s t b e h i nd t h e e a r a t t h e j u nc t ion of
,

t h e h e ad b u t t h i s i s a s ho t o n e se ldom g e t s .

F our t h a s ho t fi re d from a mod e ra t e h e igh t down

,

ward s i n a forward di r e c t ion s t riki ng t h e bac k o f t h e ,

h e ad clo s e t o t h e sp i n e wh e n d e a t h will b e i n s t an
,

t a n e ou s .

F i ft h s t raigh t acro ss i n t o t h e orific e of t h e

, ear .

F or t h i s s ho t t h e gun s hould b e o n a l e v e l w i t h th e

e a r and t h e ball S h ould p a ss s t raigh t t hrough

,
.
 1 44 RE M I N I SCE N C E S OF IND IA

S ix t h b e h i nd t h e should e r a t t h e p oin t o f t h e
,

e l bow A l s o a s ho t fi r e d i n t o an u p rai se d foo t wil l

.
,

c ri p p l e t h e cr e a t ur e and m ak e h i m an e a s y V i c t i m t o
s u cc e e di ng s ho t s .

To hun t t h e se an imal s s ucc e ss fully on foo t i s v e ry

hard wo r k and r e qu i r e s a man n o t only t o b e i n good
,

t rai n i ng s ou nd of wi nd and l imb b u t al s o t o b e

, ,

p o s se s se d of d e t e rm ina t ion u ndaun t ed

p luck a ,qu ick ,

and v e ry s har p h e ari ng I i s n o ch ild s la ’

e e
y ,
t p y to
.

s lay t h e s e an imal s i n t h e i r for e s t hom e s H ug e a s .

t h e y a r e no b e a s t i s e a s i e r t o kill i f a hu n t e r co m e s
, ,

ac ro s s o n e o n foo t and i f h e follow t h e d ir e c t io n s ,

al r e ady giv e n N o t o nly mu st t h e S p o t t o ai m a t b e

.

k nown b u t t h e angl e a t wh ich t h e s ho t i s t o b e fi re d

,

o n e w i t hou t t h e o t h e r i s u s e l e ss M o re ov e r t h e di st anc e .
,

s hould n o t e xc e e d t w e n t y yard s b e t t e r i f i t b e a good

d e al l e ss M any m e n p r e fe r s moo t h bor e s—g e n e rally
.

doubl e e igh t s wi t h hard e n e d s p h e ri cal bull e t s driv e n by

,

e igh t or t e n d rachm s o f black p owd e r I my se lf hav e .

n e v e r u se d any t h ing bigg e r t han a t e n t w o — groov e ri fl e

o r a 5 7 7 e x p r e ss ; e i t h e r will kill i f h e ld s t raigh t charg e d ,

wi t h S i x drachm s of p owd e r and a s ol id s t e e l t i pp e d -

con ical bull e t hard e n e d wi t h a s mal l alloy o f qu ick s il v e r

,
.

T h e fi r s t e l e p han t I e v e r kill e d w a s a t B e i ng
mah wh ich w a s my h e adquar t e r s for s om e y e ars
,
.

I had s e e n a good d e al of B u rma by t ha t t i m e I .

s e arch e d for s p or t from t h e v e ry day of m y arrival i n

Prom e I had s oon d i s cov e r e d t ha t t h e fi n e s t s n i p e

.

S hoo t i ng i n t h e world w a s t o b e fou nd i n t h e cou n t ry

b e t w e e n t h e m iddl e o f A ugu s t an d t h e e n d of O c t ob e r .

O t h e r s m all gam e s uch a s har e s francol i n s j ungl e , , ,

fowl and barki ng d e e r w e r e p l e n t i ful abou t N amyan

,
-
, ,
1 46 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

O ur spor t sm e n w i t h a v e ry fe w e xc e p t ion s did n o t

, ,

u nd e r st and t h e languag e T h e B urm e se w e r e accu s .

t o m e d t o t h e i r own mod e of s p or t by t orchl igh t and ,

w i t h b e ll s a t n igh t and did n o t com p r e h e nd t h e n ic e t i e s

,

of s t al ki ng o r o f S h oo t i ng o ff e l e p han t s I l i k e d t h e .

e o le and l iv e d i n t h e i r m id st w i t hou t fe ar I en
p p ,
.

c ou r a e d
g the m t o bri ng m e i n m a m (n e ws o f
gam e ) and by gi ving t ri fl ing p r e se n t s t o t h e wom e n
,

and a l i t t l e t obacco t o t h e m e n I t ri e d t o concil ia t e

t he m . I kn e w all t h e i nfl u e n t ial p e o p l e of bo t h s e x e s .

Th e re w a s n o t a v illag e for m il e s arou nd I had n o t

v i si t e d and wh e r e v e r I w e n t I k e p t my e y e s o pe n
, ,

b e hav e d l ib e rally and b e gg e d t h e m all t o se nd m e

,

n e w s o f any gam e t o b e found i n t h e i r n e ighbour

h ood .

I g e n e ral ly sa t o n a p a d b e h i nd t h e m ahou t wi t h a ,

B urman guid e b e h i nd m e hav ing no h owdah t h e n I ,

.

occa s ionally cam e acro ss d e e r At fi rs t I m i ss e d .

e gr e giou s l y for t h e knack of s hoo t i ng off e l e han t s i s

, p
n o t acqui r e d i n a day ; b u t now and t h e n I mad e a

l ucky s ho t and k e e p ing b u t a l i t t l e for my s e lf and

,

s e rvan t s I gav e t h e gr e a t e r p ar t of t h e m e a t t o t h e
,

e o l e a t work und e r m e
p p .

E v e ry day of my l ife wh e n n o t s e arch i ng for n e w ,

rou t e s I w a s u p a t daybr e ak drank a c u p of coffe e

, , ,

mou n t e d m y p ony and r e mai n e d o n t h e work s un t i l

,

n e ar s un s e t I u se d t h e n t o p a y t h e p e o p l e ba t h e
.
, ,

d i n e and go t o b e d
, Th e r e w a s p l e n t y of s mall gam e ;
.

by go ing o u t for an hou r or t w o I could alway s s hoo t

a fe w francol i n s and har e s and i n t h e s e a s on I coul d ,

hav e l i v e d on s n i p e B u t my gr e a t ambi t ion w a s t o

.

s lay an e l e han t I had s e e n kill e d or h e l e d t o kill

p .
p , ,
 G AM E I N THE P R O ME D I S T R I C T 147

e v e ry t hi ng e l se b u t had n e v e r com e acro ss w i l d

,

e l e han t s rh i noc e ro s e s or bu ffalo e s

p , , .

M y hou se w a s wi t h i n a h undr e d yard s of a nullah ,

wh ich com i ng o u t of t h e N a w e n C r e e k n e ar Prom e

, , ,

w e n t t h rough t h e cou n t ry p arall e l t o t h e I r r a w a d i e an d ,

form e d t h e T l e i n c re e k low e r down O nc e i n t h e .

rai n s wh e n t h e coun t ry w a s flood e d and t rav e ll i ng

,

i m p o ss ibl e by wha t ough t t o hav e b e e n land I ,

d e t e rmi n e d t o r e ach E e i n g m a h by wa t e r I wa s .

a ss ure d i t coul d n o t b e don e a s c r e e k s d id n o t j oi n ,

t h e t w o s t r e am s t og e t h e r b u t t h i s w a s agai n s t common
,

se n se . F rom t h e con t ou r of t h e land I kn e w pa ss ag e s

mu st e xi s t and aft e r a gr e a t d e al of t roubl e I g o t an
,

ol d D acoi t t o S how m e t h e way o n a p aym e n t of

2 0 ru e e s I had a quan t i t y of ickax s h ov e l s
p .
p e s , ,

s ad e s bla s t ing t ool s e tc t carry and as onl y

p , ,o , ,

s mall boa t s coul d go I e ngag e d n e arly fift y of

,

t h e m and w i t h t h i s flo t illa r e ach e d m y d e s t i na t io n i n

,

t h r e e day s I had t o c u t m y way h e r e an d t h e re

.
,

a s cr e e e r s had block e d s om e of t h e s mall e r cr e e k s

p ,

b u t i t w a s n o t a hard t ri p aft e r all and s av e d a , ,

gr e a t d e al of t roubl e and e x p e n se T h e m o squ i t o e s .

i n E e i n g m a h w e r e so bad w e could n o t hav e e xi st e d ,

had w e n o t found t ha t t h e y could n o t bi t e t h rough

n e w spap e r s so w e g o t s ui t s of loo se wra pp e r s fro m
t h e s ol e s of our boo t s t o ou r n e ck s mad e of p a p e r , ,

and w i t h a vigo rou s p unkah ov e rh e ad w e bid t h e m

d e fianc e t hough t h e di n n e r t abl e would b e a t t i m e s
,
-

black wi t h t h e m .

O n e day a B urman cam e t o m e an d s ai d h e had

se e n an i mm e n se t u s k e r e l e ph an t n e ar t h e nullah ,

a bou t fi v e m il e s b e low T e ll i ng my havildar t o look

.
1 48 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF I ND I A

aft e r t h e work s t ha t day and t o p a y t h e cool i e s ,

’
i f I w a s la t e I g o t i n t o t h e B urman s boa t and
, ,

t ook no t h ing wi t h m e s av e my t w o w e a p o n s and

am mu n i t io n .

I n st e ad of t aki ng m e fi v e t h e man t ook m e fully ,

t e n m il e s W e t h e n land e d and wal k e d t h rough a

.
,

na st y s wam p y t angl e d j ungl e for a cou p l e of m il e s

mo r e wh e r e l e e ch e s w e r e v e ry p l e n t iful W e t h e n
,
.

e n t e r e d a for e s t of e e i zz o r ba s t ard t e ak Th e se t r e e s
,
.

hav e h ug e l e av e s wh ich a r e s h e d t wic e a y e ar d e c o m ,

p o se,
and form rich v e g e t abl e m ould wh ich i n p lac e s ,

i s so d e e p t ha t I hav e se e n an e l e p han t u nabl e t o go

t hrough i t T h e r e i s se l dom much und e rgrow t h i n
.

t h e s e for e s t s W e had t rudg e d for an hour and I

.
,

w a s g e t t i ng h e ar t ily S ick a t s e e i n g no t h i ng of our

quarry wh e n p r e se n t l y t h e guid e p oi n t e d o u t s om e
,

fr e s h e l e p han t dro pp ing s and w e al s o no t ic e d t h e i r ,

foo t mark s wh ich s how e d t ha t t h e h e rd con s i s t e d of

,

s om e four or fi v e full grown b e a s t s and t w o s mall on e s

-
.

AS o n e t rack w a s much larg e r t han any of t h e o t h e rs ,

I p r e s um e d o n e w a s a bull and t h e o t h e r s h i s wi v e s ,

and ch ildr e n .

W e follow e d t h e t rail wh i ch w a s p lai n e nough b u t , ,

i t s e e m e d a s if w e s hould n e v e r ov e r t ak e t h e h e rd .

W e had s t ar t e d a t 8 a m i t w a s now 2 p m T h e . .

h e a t w a s s u ffoca t i ng t h e r e w a s n o t a br e a t h of wi nd ,

and t h e mo s qu i t o e s and hor s e fl i e s buzz e d and hov e r e d -

round u s wor s t of all w e g o t amo n g t h e t r e e l e e ch e s

,
-
,

wh ich al mo st a s fi n e a s bi t s of t h r e ad i n se r t e d
, ,

t h e m s e lv e s do w n ou r back s u p ou r l e g s and hung , ,

abou t u s i n fe st oon s and w i t h r e p l e t ion s oon s w e ll e d

,

t o r e sp e c t abl e p ro p o r t ion s I w a s i n good condi t ion .

,
1 56 R E M IN I SCE N CES OF INDIA

rac e Th e y gav e m e a cl e an hou se t o go i n t o and

. ,

comm e nc e d t o rig u p a be d fo r m e ; b u t a glanc e a t

t h e gr e a s y p illow w a s e nough —I p r e fe rr e d t h e cl e an

bamboo floo r and a log fo r a s u pp or t for t h e h e ad

,
.

T h e v illag e a s mal l o n e w a s call e d S u b a g u a y and

, , ,

w a s s i t ua t e d o n a s mall ri vul e t runn ing i n t o t h e Way

g h e e c h ou n
g I w a s s oon dabbl ing i n cl e ar fr e s h wa t e r
. ,

wh i ch w a s t oo s hallo w for s wi mm ing b u t no t h i ng r e ,

fr e s h e s o n e so much a s a p lung e i n t o cold wa t e r aft e r

’
a hard day s fag .

A n ol d woman soo n coo k e d m e s om e ric e and , ,

se e i ng s om e fr e s h fi s h hangi ng u I o t h e r t o bro i l
p g ,

m e a cou p l e T h e p e o p l e offe r e d m e m e s se s of t h e i r
.

own b u t a s g n ap e fi p r e dom ina t e d i n t h e m all I d e

, ,

c l i n e d t h e m wi t h t ha n k s I had no t abl e ap pl ianc e s.

.

M y S h i kar kn ife w a s t oo larg e b u t t h e wo man gav e m e

o n e of h e r o wn and u s i ng m y fi ng e r s I mad e a fa i r
, , ,

e nough m e al B u t wha t would I hav e n o t giv e n for a

.

bo t t l e of Ba s s ! S l e e p w a s o u t of t h e qu e st ion fo r , ,

t ir e d a s I w a s di r e c t ly I doz e d t h e mo s qui t o e s se t t l e d
,

o n m e i n myriad s I di sl ik e t h e i r buzzi ng e v e n mor e

.

t han t h e i r bi t e s and h a d t o do ba t t l e wi t h t h e m all

,

n igh t t hankful t o se e dayl igh t wh e n i t cam e I ru sh e d

, .

i n t o t h e rivul e t fi nding a d e e p e r p ool ; b u t i t w a s

,

S l igh t l y m uddy a t t h e bo t t om and I o t a cou p l e o f

g ,

l e e ch e s o n m e T h e g n a éa a e e a fi sh al s o t ook a n ip
.
’

o r t wo ou t o f m e b u t I fe l t gr e a t ly r e fr e s h e d by t h e
,

i m m e r s io n T h e se g n a b o d e e n s s warm i n mo s t riv e rs
.

i n B urma Th e y a r e t e rri bl e p e s t s Wh e n t ak e n o u t
. .

o f t h e wa t e r t h e y blo w t h e m se l v e s o u t l ik e a balloon
, .

G n a pe e i s a d e c oc t io n of fi sh p o u n de d in a m or t a r w t hi sa l t ,

an d i s m ost offe n s v e t o i E u r op e a n s.
 ON T H E T RA I L A G A I N 15I

The old woman who had t ak e n m e u n d e r h e r cul i nary

charg e brough t m e a c u p of t e a of wh i ch t h e B urm e se ,

a re v e ry fo nd dri nki ng i t lai n wi t hou t s ugar or m ilk

p , ,
.

I robb e d a h e n roo st of an e gg and brok e t h e yolk

-
,

i n t o t h e t e a s t i rr e d i t w e ll u p and p u t i n a lum p of
, ,

mola sse s and I had a s good a c u p of t e a a s I could

,

w i s h for .

I t old t h e guid e t o go back t o E e i n g m a h and givi ng , ,

h i m t h e s mall can non I follow e d h i m wi t h t h e doubl e

,

b u t I s oon sa w t ha t h e had n o i n t e n t io n of doi ng a s I had

b id h i m H e t ook m e st raigh t back t o wh e r e w e had
.

lo st t h e e l e p han t s t h e day b e for e I di d n o t l ik e givi ng .

u
p
, for fe ar of n e v e r g e t t i ng t h e m t o bri ng m e n e w s

of big gam e agai n fo r t h i s w a s t h e v e ry fir st occa s ion

,

anyon e i n t h e cou n t ry had vol u n t e e r e d t o s h ow sp or t .

I did n o t wan t t h e m t o t h in k m e a Iaggard and I ,

my se l f w a s mo st anx i ou s t o s lay B e h e mo t h I d id .

n o t know a t t ha t t i m e t ha t t h e B urm e se p r e fe r t h e
fl e s h o f t h e e l e p han t t o all o t h e r and t hough t t h e ,

’
man s anx i e t y fo r m e t o b e s ucc e ss ful i n our cha se w a s
d u e t o h i s lov e of s p or t wh e r e a s h e w a s b u t hung e ri ng
,

and t h i r st i ng aft e r t h e fl e sh p o t s -
.

As t h e r e w a s no t h i ng e l se fo r i t I gird e d u p my ,

l oi n s and t ook u p t h e t rail afre sh W e had s t ar t e d a t

, .

7 a m .and t o il e d t h rough i n t e rm inabl e j ungl e s t ill pa st

.
,

t w e lv e wh e n I call e d a hal t
, I had n o t b e e n t roubl e d
.

w i t h l e e ch e s t o t h e sam e e x t e n t a s o n t h e day b e fore ,

fo r s e e ing t h e B urman s m e ar h i s l e g s ov e r wi t h t h e i r
,

c rud e p e t rol e um I d id l i k e wi se and i t an s w e re d w e ll

, ,

a s long a s i t r e mai n e d o n b u t wh e n t h e d e w and w e t

l e av e s had sa t ura t e d m y gai t e r s t h e s m e ll wore off , ,

and t h e se p e st s s oon foun d t h e i r way t o my fe e t and

1
5 2 RE M I N I SC E N C ES OF INDIA

ankl e s s o t ha t I had t o s t o p now an d t h e n t o e x t rac t

,

the m . A no t h e r aw ful t rick t h e s e l e e ch e s hav e i s t o

dro p o ff t h e bu sh e s a s you bru sh p a st t h e m crawl ,

down you r n e ck and fa s t e n t h e m se lv e s o n t o t h e s mall

,

of your back .

T h e B urman had brough t food w i t h h i m i n t h e

s ha e of bo il ed ric e t o wh ich w a s add e d a l i t tle
p ,

mola sse s t h e whol e b e ing com p r e ss e d i n t o a bamboo

, ,

t o b e p u sh e d o u t from t h e bo t t om l i k e a s au sag e and ,

e at e n N a t iv e s w ill s ub s i s t o n t h i s for day s M y

. .

guid e offe r e d m e s om e b u t I d e cl i n e d i t so wh il e h e
,

a t e h i s br e akfa s t I wand e re d off a l i t t l e way had a ,

good dri nk and a ba t h e .

W e t h e n r e s u m e d ou r t racki ng and I w a s glad t o ,

fi nd t h e pachyd e rm s had t ak e n a backward cou r se ,

and w e r e go i ng i n t h e d ir e c t ion of t h e v illag e wh e r e I

had pu t u p t h e p r e viou s n igh t W e wal k e d along a s .

fa st a s we could con s i s t e n t wi t h maki ng a s l i t t l e noi se

,

as
p o ss ibl e for ,t h e l e a s t u n u s ual s ou nd i n a fo r e s t w i l l

s e nd all w ild an i mal s off ; n o t onl y a r e t h e i r olfac t ory

n e rv e s acu t e b u t t h e i r h e ari ng i s of t h e b e s t and a

, ,

’
man s foo t fall i s s oon r e cogn i se d a s s om e t h i ng u m
canny .

W e w e r e t orm e n t e d a s u s ual and w e se e m e d t o b e ,

g e t t i ng no n e ar e r ou r quarry S o a t 4 p m I aga i n . .

call e d a hal t and t h i s t im e I mad e t h e man u nd e r s t and

,

t hat h e mu s t t ak e m e back t o t h e v illag e wh ich h e d i d ,

m o s t r e luc t an t l y W e arri v e d t h e r e a t s u n se t I dr e ad
.
,

i ng t o hav e t o p a ss ano t h e r s l e e pl e ss n igh t t or t ur e d by ,

mo squ i t o e s and wi t h no b e d and no b e e r

, .

M y d e l igh t may b e i magin e d wh e n I sa w my boy

wai t i ng for m e my b e d and cur t ai n s n ic e ly rigg e d u p
, ,
1 54 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA
st e ak ob t ai nabl e i n E ngland ; b u t t h e y hav e no id e a
o f a curry Wh e n you con s id e r t ha t i n cam p a boy
.

will p r e p are a di n n e r fi t fo r a king h is cui s in e con s i s t i ng ,

o f a fe w e ar t h e nwar e p o t s a t ri pod o r t w o a l i t t l e
, ,

charcoal and a fe w s t i ck s and t ha t h e w ill giv e you

, ,

a roa st S id e di sh e s s ou p and fi sh i f i t i s ob t ai nabl e

,
-
, , ,

wi nding u p wi t h t h e i n e v i t abl e curry and r ic e and ,

o adum s o r Bo mbay duck s i t i s a marv e l how h e

p pp , ,

manag e s i t .

A long r e s id e n c e i n t h e E a s t e sp e cially t h e I ndia o f

,

old day s sp oil s a man for a l i fe i n E u ro p e wh e r e

, ,

t h e re i s no t h i ng r e al ; e v e ry t h i ng i s ar t ificial Y ou .

can n e v e r d e p e nd o n t w o day s b e ing al ik e t o s a y ,

no t h i ng o f t h e bl i ndi ng s t o rm s of s now t h e bi t t e r col d ,

wi nd s and t h e m i s e rabl e w e t w e a t h e r so oft e n e x p e r i

, ,

e nced . I n I ndia w e know e xac t l y wha t t o e x p e c t and ,

a re
p r e p ar e d t o m e e t i t T h e r e .w e l i v e a l i fe of e a s e ,

a re n ot t roubl e d wi t h form al i t i e s or M r s Grundy .

,

hav e j olly com p an ion s a t hand can e nj oy good s p or t ,

wi t hou t t roubl ing ou rs e lv e s abou t gam e l ic e nc e s or -

a s c e r t ai n i ng wh e t h e r w e a r e t r e sp a ss ing or n o t I am .

s e aki ng of t h e I ndia of old b e for e t h e r e w e r e r e s e rv e d

p ,

l and s and b e for e na t iv e raj ah s t ook t o p r e s e rv ing gam e

,

and b e cam e e x p e r t s p or t s m e n E v e ry old I ndian fin ds

.

o u t wh e n t o o l a t e wha t a m i s t ak e h e h a s mad e i n r e t i r

i ng t o t h i s d e t e st abl e cl i ma t e M arriag e h a s a good

.

d e al t o do wi t h i t and w e r e i t n o t for t h e ch ildr e n

, ,

fe w m e n would com e hom e i n s t e ad of s e t t l i ng i n ,

I n dia T h e ol d dir e c t or s w e r e w i s e wh e n t h e y d i s
.

c o u r a e d ma t ri mo ny amo ng s t t h e i r o ffi c e r s B u t we
g .

l i v e and l e arn an d oft e n t ho roughly r e p e n t

,
.

T hat n igh t I w a s i n v e ry good ca se A ft e r a good .

 C O M F O R T A B LE Q UAR T E RS 1 55

ba t h e and a h e ar t y s crub I p u t o n cl e an cl o t h e s , ,

e nj oy e d m y m e al wa s h ing i t dow n wi t h a bo t t l e of
,

cool B a ss a l iquor wh ich i n t ho se day s w a s far s u p e rior

,

t o wha t i t i s now B e for e t h e ov e rland ro u t e t hou

.
,

s and s and t hou s and s of ca s k s of fir s t H o d s on and t h e n , ,

of B a ss and A ll s o pp Pal e A l e s u s e d t o b e se n t round ,

t h e C ap e .Wh e t h e r t h e long v oyag e i m p rov e d t h e

a le, I kno w n o t E ach m e ss had m e n s p e cially
.

s kill e d i n bo t t l i ng b e e r wh ich wh e n cool e d i n s al t

, ,

p e t r e b e cam e n e c t ar
, O n e t h ing I do p rid e my se l f
.

u p on and t ha t i s my knowl e dg e of wha t co n st i t u t e s

, ,

or do e s n o t g ood a l e ,
D uring a l i fe now ala s !
.
, ,

g e t t i ng o n t oward s t h e s e v e n t i e s I h av e n e v e r drunk ,

s i ri t s n o t b e cau s e I t hough t t h e r e w a s any harm i n

p ,

doi ng s o i n mod e ra t i on b u t b e cau se I had no t ast e fo r

,

t h e m ; no r did I e v e r t ak e t o s moki ng b u t I s hould ,

l i k e t o hav e all t ha t b e e r h a s co s t m e !
M y p e o p l e a t E e i n g m a h alarm e d a t m y n o t r e t u rni ng
,

by t h e e v e n ing of t h e day I h ad l e ft mad e i nqu i ri e s ,

t h e n e x t day and a s c e r t ai n e d t ha t I w a s a t S u b a g u a y
, ,

fo r boa t s w e r e con s t an t ly p a ss i ng bo t h way s s o my ,

man p u t my t ra p s i n t o m y boa t and brough t e v e ry ,

t h i ng I r e qu ir e d I had n o t g iv e n h i m cr e di t fo r so
.

m uch s e n se b u t h e w a s an e xc e p t ional na t iv e and

, ,

abou t t h e b e s t s e rvan t I e v e r had ; a t t h e e n d of fou r

y e ars h ow e v e r h e g o t h om e s ick and would go back t o
, ,
-
,

h i s own coun t ry B o t h h e and h i s so n wh o w a s my

. ,

M or a o r d r e ss ing boy p ick e d u p B u rm e se and sp ok e

,
-
, ,

i t al mo s t a s w e ll a s t h e na t i v e s o f t h e cou n t ry T h rough .

h i m I l e arn e d t ha t s om e Bu rm e se wa t ch i ng t h e i r p addy ,

fi e l d s had s e e n t h e e l e p han t s duri ng t h e n igh t and

,

e arly t ha t m orn ing ; t ha t t h e y w e r e i n a t r e e for e st -

1
56 REM I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

bord e ring o n t h e cul t iva t io n S o car e full y cl e an ing

.

o u t bo t h ri fl e s I r e load e d t h e m T h e gr e a t drawback
, .

t o muzzl e load e r s w a s t h e di ffi cul t y of e x t rac t i ng t h e

-

charg e s p rio r t o cl e an ing T o fi r e off h e av ily charg e d

.
-

w e ap on s w a s t o alarm t h e whol e j ungl e and i t w a s ,

n o t al w ay s e a s y t o draw a bull e t from a groov e d t ub e .

M i n e w e r e b e l t e d bull e t s t ha t fi t t e d s o p e rfe c t ly t ha t I
could e a s ily p ull t h e m o u t wi t h a st ou t load i ng rod -
,

b u t wha t a com for t br e e ch load e r s a r e n ow ! T h e l e s s

-

noi s e yo u mak e i n cam p e sp e cially aft e r dark s o much

, ,

t h e gr e a t e r chanc e o f s or t
p .

I t ook t h e d oubl e ri fl e ; t h e guid e carri e d t h e s i ngl e .

N o t knowi ng how l ong w e m igh t b e o u t I t oo k an ,

e x t ra hand and ma d e h i m carry s om e br e akfa st fo r

,

me . O n r e ach i ng t h e p addy fi e l d s i t b e cam e e vid e n t

-
,

t ha t t h e w a t ch e r s had s p ok e n t h e t ru t h for a gr e a t ,

d e al o f t h e corn had b e e n e a t e n and m or e t ram p l e d ,

und e rfoo t ; and a s t h e for e s t con si s t i ng of t r e e s a n d

,

bamboo w a s clo se by and t h e y had n o t b e e n mol e s t e d

, , ,

I fe l t s u r e t h e e l e p han t s woul d n o t b e far off s o t ook ,

doubl e p r e cau t ion s and advan c e d w i t h t h e gr e a t e st

,

car e A bou t 1 0 a m w e fi r s t h e ard t h e m and advanc e d

. .
,

u
p win
-
d o n t h e m a s i f ou
,
r v e ry l iv e s d e e nd e d o n our
p
cau t ion . T h e br e akfa s t cool i e w a s l e ft b e h i nd and ,

t h e guid e and I cr e p t o n from t r e e t o t r e e an d bu s h

t o bu s h i n t h e d ir e c t ion t h e an i mal s w e r e fe e di ng ,

fo r w e co uld h e ar t h e m t e aring d own t h e young

bamboo s hoo t s E v e n n ow t h e e l e p han t s w e r e n o t
.

n e arly a s clo se t o u s a s w e t h ough t C rawl ing along .

,

wi t h e v e ry s e n se st r e t ch e d t o t h e u t m o st mom e n ,

t a r i l y e x e c t i ng t o com e u on t h e m w e had t o con

p p ,

t rol ou r i m p a t i e nc e for full y hal f an hour wh e n a t la s t ,

1
58 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I ND I A
wa s a fi n e t u s k e r I t i s o n e t h i n g t o s t al k an an imal and
.
,

qui t e ano t h e r b e i ng s t al k e d I s u p p o se t h e an i mal had

.

o t a t ai n t t hough a v e ry s l igh t o n e of m and coul d

g , e , ,

n o t mak e o u t wha t i t w a s s o w a s car e fully a roach

,
pp
i ng t o a s c e r t ai n who had dar e d t o com e b e t w e e n t h e
wi nd and h i s nobil i t y H e would s t o p e v e ry s e cond
.

or t w o t h rowi ng h i s t runk abou t i n e v e ry dir e c t ion

, ,

s c e n t i ng t h e ai r b u t r e frai n i ng from givi ng t h e warn

,

i ng c ry P e rhap s t h e v e ry fac t o f m y b e ing b e h in d

.

t h e cl um p of bamboo s lying fl a t o n t h e grou nd wh il e

, ,

h i s t runk w a s rai s e d s o h igh p r e v e n t e d h i s s c e n t ing ,

m e t horoughly F ro m h i s p r e vi ou s e ag e rn e s s I p r e
.
,

s um e d t h e a t t e ndan t w i t h t h e fou r bor e w a s clo s e by -

m e and wi s h i ng t o gi v e t h e t u s k e r a t a s t e of my
,

qual i t y I h e ld o u t my hand fo r t h e s ingl e ri fl e b u t

, ,

bo t h man and w e a p o n had d i sa pp e ar e d H e had l e ft .

m e i n t h e l urch N o t t ha t i t ma t t e r e d i n t h e l e a s t fo r
.
,

I w a s p e rfe c t ly safe t h e cl um p w a s d e n se e nough t o

,

r e s i s t a can no n ball and much t oo low for an e l e p han t

,

t o charg e u nd e rn e a t h i t s o I wai t e d fo r t h e bru t e t o

,

com e clo se e nough wi t h t h e u t mo s t cool n e s s T h e .

e l e p han t k e p t grad u ally advanc ing hal t i ng i n t e n t ly , ,

l i st e ni ng u s i ng i t s e x t raordi n ary olfac t ory p ow e rs t o

,

t h e u t mo s t y e t i t w a s p uzzl e d : p e rha p s t h e variabl e

,

cu rr e n t s of ai r balk e d h im I can no t t e ll b u t a t la s t , ,

b e hal t e d n o t mor e t han s i x o r e igh t p ac e s fro m m e ;

h e s e e m e d di sgu s t e d and d i ss a t i s fi e d an d p u t d own ,

h i s t ru n k t o s t ri k e t h e warni ng no t e o n t h e grou nd T h i s .

w a s my o pp or t un i t y t h e t e m p l e w a s e x p o se d t hough ,

n o t qui t e a t t h e e xac t angl e I f h e had b e e n a cou p l e

.

of fe e t more forward i t woul d hav e b e e n b e t t e r b u t a t ,

s uch clo s e quar t e r s I kn e w t h e bull e t har d e n e d by a .

 D EAT H OF T H E T US K E R 1 59

mix t ur e o f qu ick s ilv e r and driv e n by S i x drachm s O f ,

P e gou and Wil k e s b e st ri fl e p owd e r would go t h rough

’

and t h rough and p e n e t ra t e t h e brai n so t aki ng a qu ick

, ,

b u t s t e ady aim I l e t driv e T h e mon s t e r ru s h e d for

, .

ward a p ac e an d fe ll h e ad for e mo st i n a cl um p o f
,

bamboo s I w a s S O d e ligh t e d a t my l uck t ha t I qu i t e

.

forgo t t o fi r e t h e l e ft barr e l a t t h e cow and al t hough ,

t h e B u rman a p p e ar e d a s i f by magic and t hru s t t h e ,

can non i n t o m y han d I n e v e r d r e am t of u s i ng i t or , ,

firing a t any of t h e o t h e r s t h ough t h e y w e r e so d u m ,

fou nd e d by t h e r e p or t of t h e ri fl e and t h e fall of t h e i r ,

lord and ma st e r t ha t t h e y cl u s t e r e d t og e t h e r and I

, ,

m igh t hav e kill e d o n e o r mor e had I u se d t h e w e a p on s

a t my com mand .

T h e B urman w a s di sgu s t e d a t m y n o t e x t e rm i na t i ng
t h e h e rd I did n o t u nd e r s t and t h e i n s and ou t s t h e n
.

b u t t h e mo r e I had s lai n t h e m o r e h e would hav e g o t ,

from t h e v illag e r s for t h e fl e s h T h e gu id e w e n t o ff .

t o g e t p e o p l e t o c u t o u t t h e t u s k s wh ich w e r e v e ry ,

t h ick b u t n o t long and I sa t dow n n o t far off and

, ,

br e akfa st e d I n a v e ry s hor t t i m e t h e i nhabi t an t s o f

.

t h e n e ighbouri ng villag e s t urn e d u p arm e d w i t h d h a w s

and kn iv e s T h e y had a long p alav e r and ap pare n t ly

.
,

high wo rd s wi t h my s h ik a r i e fi nally ru s h i ng u p o n t h e
, ,

carca ss w e ap on s i n hand hacki ng an d cu t t i ng away

, , ,

e ach t rying for c e r t ai n t i t bi t s wh ich a r e found i n t h e -

i n s id e onl y and e nd e avou ri ng t o coll e c t t og e t h e r a s

,

much m e a t a s p o ss i bl e T h i s w a s a S igh t I could n o t .

e ndu r e s o I wal k e d back t o t h e v illag e ack ed u m y

, p p ,

t ra p s and r e t urn e d t o my h e adquar t e r s i n my own

,

b oa t
I t wa s n ot t ill s om e t im e aft e rward s I di s cov e r e d
1 60 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF
‘
INDIA

t ha t t h e sh i k a r i e h a d s old t h e carca ss of t h e e l e phan t

I had s ho t t o t h e vi llag e r s by auc t ion g e t t ing n o t only ,

h i s s har e Of t h e m e a t b u t s om e 5 0 ru p e e s b y t h e
‘

, ,

t ran s ac t ion . Tha t w a s t h e p alav e r t ha t p re c e d e d t h e

ru s h for t h e m e a t and I hav e s e e n t h e s am e Sc e n e
,

r e ac t e d o n s e v e ral occa s ion s aft e rward s .

H avi ng t ol d of a s ucc e ss ful hu n t I will r e la t e t h e ,

s t ory of o n e v e ry m uch t h e r e v e r se wh e n I w a s a t ,

L e p a n g y o u n g o n t h e Pabay C hou ng nor t h w e s t of

, ,
-

Tongho wh e r e se v e ral e l e phan t s had b e e n k ill e d

, .

Th i s w a s a ca p i t al local i t y fo r s p or t a s n o t o nly ,

e l e p han t s b u t gau r s amb u r t ig e r s and l e o p a rd s vVe r e

’

, , , ,

fai rly abu ndan t S t ar t i ng e arly o n e morn ing w e g o t on

.
,

t h e fr e s h t rail o f a s ol i t ary e l e p han t As b e fe d a s h e

.

w e n t along and s how e d no s ign s of b e i ng i n a hurry

,
- .

I Wa s i n ho p e s w e s hould s oon ov e r t ak e h i m b u t w e ,

wal k e d a good fi ft e e n m il e s b e for e w e s igh t e d h im .

H e w a s s t andi ng i n t h e b e d of a s mall r i l e t p u lli ng ,

dow n and e a t ing t h e s t al k s of w ild p l an t ai n s The -

.

w i nd bl e w di r e c t ly fro m h i m t o u s so I crawl e d u p ,

w i t h i n t w e n t y yard s and sa t down H i s h ug e quar t e r .

:

w a s s t ari ng m e i n t h e fac e and I coul d n o t s e e any

,

v ul n e rabl e S ot
p b ut
,
occa s ionally as h e s wung
,
h i s

i m m e n s e h e ad abou t t o fl ick off t h e fl i e s h e e x p o se d ,

a sp l e ndid p ai r O f i vori e s I mu st hav e wa t ch e d

.
.

h i m mor e t han t w e n t y m i n u t e s ; h e had e a t e n all t h e

e s cul e n t mor s e l s i n t h e fron t and t o g e t a t o t h e r s h e
,

would hav e t o p r e s e n t h i s broad s id e S o W i t h bo t h .

b arr e l s o n full cock and fing e r o n t rigg e r I bid e d m y

, ,

t i me . S udd e nl y wi thou t t h e l e a st warn ing h e s p u n

, ,

round faci ng m e I t h r e w u p t h e ri fl e i n a h urry ; a

.

droo p i ng bamboo s t ruck t h e barr e l ; t h e ri fl e e x p lod e d

 M O U NG GO U N G GE E 1 61

in ai r ; I had mad e a cl e an m i ss B e for e I Coul d

m id -
.

u s e t h e l e ft barr e l all t h e vul n e rabl e oi n t s w e r e s afe

p
u nd e r cov e r and I w a s n o t cr u e l e nough t o fi r e a t h i s
,

carca ss T hu s t h i s m on s t e r wi t h m o st sp l e ndid t u s k s
.

o t away u n t ouch e d T h e m e mory of t h a t w r e t c h e d

'

g .

m i ss rankl e d for many a day i n my bo s om and e v e n ,

now my mou t h wa t e r s wh e n I t h i nk of t h e t ro p h i e s
t ha t ough t t o hav e b e e n m i n e .

I n 1 8 5 4 C olon e l C o t t on C B S e n t a forc e o u t , . .
,

fro m T a p o o n wh ich t rav e ll i ng all day and n igh t o n

, ,

e l e p han t s s ur p ri se d M oung
,
Goung G e e t h e r e b e l ,

l e ad e r and h i s cam p I t w a s j u st u p on du s k ; t h e
,
.

B urm e se bol t e d o n e way our forc e t h e o t h e r T h e , .

e n e my l e ft e v e ry t h i ng b e h i nd S o me m e n o f t h e
gallan t 2 n d B e ngal F u s il i e rs fou nd a s t h e y t hough t , ,

i ngo t s of l e ad and s ca t t e r e d t h e m abou t t h e j ungl e ;

,

b u t o n e o r t w o of t h e old s t ag e r s who k e p t s om e
fo und o u t t ha t t h e y w e r e p ure s ilv e r T h e o ffic e r i n .

com mand t hough p e r sonall y brav e e nough w a s n o t a

, ,

man o f d e ci s ion and allow e d h i m s e l f t o b e s way e d by

,

an offi c e r wh o aft e rward s i n I ndia g o t no e n d of a nam e

for gallan t ry b u t wh o o n t hi s and o t h e r occa s ion s i n
,

B urma w a s n o t con sp icuou s for t ha t qual i t y H e urg e d .

t h e C ommandan t n o t t o r e mai n i n p o ss e ss ion of Goung

’
G e e s cam p a s i t w a s s urrou nd e d by j ungl e from wh i ch
, ,

t h e B urm e s e would p e pp e r u s all n igh t b u t t o r e t r e a t ,

t o mor e o p e n grou nd s o m e m il e s t o t h e r e ar D O yl y
’

.
,

wh o w a s p ol i t ical offic e r comba t e d t h e se vi e w s b u t , ,

w i t hou t avail A di sgrac e ful r e t r e a t w a s d e ci de d u p on

. .

D O yl y t h e n b e gg e d t o b e l e ft wi t h onl y a com p any

’

t o follow u p t h e day s s ucc e ss b u t e v e n t ha t w a s

’

d e n i e d h i m H e how e v e r r e ca p t u r e d t w o of ou r
.
, ,

1 1
 ‘

1 62 REM I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

A r t ill e ry hor se s wh ich t h e B urm e se had st ol e n ; b u t

,

’
a hug e t u sk e r Goung G e e s s t a t e e l e phan t e scap e d
, ,
.

T h e B urm e se o n our r e t r e a t r e p o sse ss e d t h e m se l v e s

, ,

o f t h e i r cam p and good s an d w e r e nowh e r e t o b e ,

found t h e n e x t d a y .

I n 1 8 5 5 C olon e l D av i d B rown w a s D e p u t y
C omm i ss ion e r o f T h a r a w a d die w i t h p ow e r s of l i fe ,

and d e a t h D O y l y w a s h i s a ss i st an t and T wi nam

.
’

i n command o f t h e forc e s Th e s e offi c e rs st ood no .

non se n se and mad e no r e t rograd e mov e m e n t s ;

,

t h e y follow e d t h e e n e my day and n igh t s oo n brok e ,

t t h e ch i e f s e ld e st so n
’

u
p t h e whol e gang caugh , ,

hang e d h im and r e st or e d t h e p rovi nc e t o p e ac e and

,

qu i e t n e ss . B u t t h e st at e e l e han t
p a m agn ific e n t ,

bru t e wi t h sp l e nd i d t u s k s b u t of v e ry u nc e r t ai n
t e m pe r ,
as h e had kill e d se v e ral m ahou t s agai n ,

D l
’
e s ca e d
p . O y y d e t e rm i n e d t o ca p t u r e h i m i f
p o ss ibl e ; i f n o t t o d e s t roy h i m , H e t ook o n e of our .

b e st mahou t s and a p l ucky B urman wi t h h im and ,

t h inking t o fi nd h i m i n t h e n e ighbourhood h e s t ar t e d ,

wi t h only a b i scu i t or t w o i n h i s p ock e t and arm e d ,

w i t h h i s fowl i ng p i e c e an old J o e M an t on N o 1 7 bor e

-
, .
,

load e d w i t h a sp h e rical bull e t and t w o and a quar t e r

d rach m s of p owd e r .

T h e e l e p han t an old wand e r e r had walk e d off a

, ,

l ong way F or t w o day s and n igh t s h i s p ur s u e r s

.

s t uck t o h i s t rail s ub s i s t ing on wha t t h e y co uld et

,
g
i n t h e j u ngl e s b e for e t h e y cam e u p on h i m Th e ir
, .

e nd e avour s t o ca t ch h i m w e r e fu t il e ; n e i t h e r t h e
’i
k e ddah j e m a d a r nor t h e B urman could do any t h ing
-

w i t h h im ; h e charg e d t h e m all round and t h e y had ,

K e dd h j e m a d —m a i c h a g e of t h e e l e h a t e st a b l i sh m e t
a -
ar n n r
p n n .
1 64 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA
we p o sse ss e d b e t w e e n u s fo r ou r r e vol v e r s w e r e
, i n
P rom e and h e would n o t b e bo t h e re d w i t h a gun
, .

H e s t ar t e d a t 5 a m follow e d by abou t e igh t s owar s

. .
,

o f t h e 8 t h I rr e gular C aval ry wh ich had onl y j u s t ,

arriv e d i n B urma t o r e p lac e t h e R a m g h u r s who had ,

r e t urn e d t o I ndia T h e fi ooa g /e i e h ou se t u rn e d o u t t o

.

b e n o t a fe w m il e s b u t a good e igh t e e n from P o u n d a y

, , ,

and t h e t rack lay ov e r p addy fi e l d s for t h e gr e a t e r -

p ar t ,
wh ich i n B urma a re
p ar t icularly na s t y t o rid e

ov e r a s wh e n t h e y dry u p a ft e r t h e rain s t h e s urfac e

,

i s a s s l i pp e ry a s i c e and full o f crack s

,
.

D O y l y l e d t h e way gu id e d by a man al s o mou n t e d

’

o n a B u rm e se p ony and t h e y s oo n l e ft t h e e s cor t

,

b e h ind . O n arrival a t t h e i r d e s t i na t ion D O y l y ,

’

j um p e d off h i s p ony and ru sh e d i n t o t h e hou se t o

, ,

fi nd h im se l f confron t e d by four B u rm e se full y arm e d

wi t h t h e i r form idabl e a a /w e l s or t w o hand e d s word s
’
,
-
.

N o t h i ng daun t e d D O yl y s t ood i n t h e narrow door

,
’

way wi t h t h e sh i kar kn i fe a s h i s only w e ap on H i s

,
.

r e solu t e b e aring had i t s e ffe c t o n t h e r e b e l s ; t h e y

h e s i t a t e d a mom e n t b e for e ru sh i ng i n u p o n h i m and ,

t ha t s e cond p rov e d h i s s alva t ion and t h e d e s t ruc t io n ,

h
of t w o o f t e B u rm e e s A hos t w a s fi.r ed — a man
fe ll d e ad ; a h op S ki p and j um p t h e fla sh i ng of a
, , ,

i i i /w a r and ano t h e r m a n fe ll h e adl e ss wh il s t t h e

, ,

o t h e r t w o t ook h e ad e r s o u t of t h e ou t e r v e randa i n t o
t h e long gra ss b e low and e s ca p e d S o p rom p t w a s .

t h e r e s cu e t ha t t h e dang e r w a s p a s t b e for e D O l
’

y y
had t im e t o r e al iz e i t A gallan t young s owar l i t t l e
.
,

mor e t han a lad ou t s t ri pp ing t h e o t h e r s had ri d d e n

, ,

p j u s t i n t im e t o s e e h i s l e ad e r s j e o p ardy To ’
u .

un sl ing h i s carbi n e s hoo t o n e man down t o bou nd i n t o

, ,
 E LE P H A N T S 1 65

th e hou se s word i n han d and t o accou n t for ano t h e r

, , ,

w a s wi t h h i m t h e work of a fe w s e co nd s and l ucky i t ,

w a s for D O y l y t ha t h e had s uch a gallan t and p rom p t

’

follow e r o r h is car e e r m igh t t h e n an d t h e r e hav e

,

e nd e d . T h i s s owar a Pa t han o n e o f t h e mo st war

, ,

l i k e rac e s o f I ndia did n o t t h i nk h e had don e any t h ing

,

o u t of t h e com mon t hough i t w a s robabl y t h e fi rst

, p
t im e h e had drawn h i s s word i n e arn e s t T h e r e p or t
.

D O y l y mad e o f h i s co nduc t e n su r e d h i s i m m e dia t e

’

romo t io n b u t wh e t h e r h e r e mai n e d fai t hful t o h i s s al t

p , ,

o r wh e t h e r h e w as l e d a s t ray duri ng t h e fe arful c ri s i s

i n 1 8 5 7 I kno w n o t
, I hav e forgo t t e n e v e n h i s nam e
.
,

b u t a fin e r fe llow n e v e r grac e d t h e rank s o f t h e B e ngal

I rr e gular C aval ry rich a s t ha t branch i s i n gallan t
,

s oldi e r s I t ru st h e s t ill follow s our s t andard ; b u t

.

wha t e v e r h i s s ub se qu e n t conduc t or car e e r m ay hav e

b e e n s ur e ly t hat o n e gallan t d e e d w ill b e r e cord e d i n
,

h i s favou r a t t h e L a s t D ay .

E l e p han t s a r e a t all t i m e s a wand e ring rac e Th e y .

con sum e so much and wa st e so much mor e t ha t no

, ,

S ingl e for e st woul d l ong s u ffic e for t h e i r wan t s .

D uri ng t h e rai n s i n Bu rma wh e n t h e y canno t w e ll b e

,

m ol e st e d ow i ng t o t h e s wam p y na t ur e of t h e cou n t ry
, ,

t h e y a r e e sp e cially d e st ruc t iv e t o t h e p addy cro p s .

A ft e r t h e harv e st t h e y r e t i r e t o t h e i r h ill fa s t n e sse s ,

s ub s i s t ing o n wild cardamom s and p l a i n t a i n s long ,

gra ss bamboo s and t h e l e av e s o f variou s t r e e s wh ich

, , ,

a r e all v e ry l e n t i ful i n many ar t s of B urma

p p .

C olon e l M c M a st e r a w e ll known sp or t s man and

,
-

‘
n a t u ral i s t wri t e s a s follow s : T ho se wh o o nly t h in k
,

o f e l e p han t s a s t h e y hav e s e e n t h e se dom e st ic gian t s

worki ng a t any of t h e i nnu m e rabl e t a sk s o n wh ich
 1 66 R EM I N I S CE N CES OF I NDIA

t h e se almo s t r e a son ing s lav e s may b e e m p loy e d can ,

hardly imagin e how p uzzl i n g a ma t t e r i t i s t o di st i ngu i sh

t h e m among s t t h e d ark s hadow s and i rr e gular ou t l in e s

t ha t fill u p any p or t io n o f a land s ca p e i n t h e i r fo r e s t

haun t s I w a s for s om e mom e n t s i t s e e m e d t o m e

.
,

ho u r s wai t ing i n long gra ss and r e e d s wi t h i n a fe w

,

n o t yard s of t h e h e ad o f a fi n e e l e han t wi hou

f e e t, ,
p t t ,

b e ing abl e t o g e t a s a t i s fac t ory s ho t a t h im or e v e n t o '

,

se e mor e t han an i ndi s t i nc t d u s ky ou t l i n e of form or a ,

dark sh adow a s h i s t ru nk w a s rai s e d aloft wh e n t h e

, ,

m igh t y b e a st a magn ific e n t t u sk e r s u sp e c t e d t ha t h e

, ,

s c e n t e d m i s ch i e f H avi ng a t l e ng t h mad e s ur e t h a t
.

t h e r e w a s s om e t h i ng uncan ny n e ar h im h e u t t e r e d a ,

s h rill cry and wh e e l e d righ t roun d o n t h e v e ry S p o t

,

o n w h ich h e s t ood wi t hou t e x p o s i ng any mor e vul n e r

,

abl e t arg e t t han h is e normou s h ind quar t e rs a t which -

,

i t would hav e b e e n w ick e d and wan t on c ru e l t y t o fi r e ,

ru sh e d down t h e h ill fol low e d by h is family (e igh t o r

,

t e n unwi e ldy wi v e s and s t urdy ch ildr e n ) wh o se p r o ,

gr e ss a s t h e y c ra sh e d t h ro u gh t h e d e n se und e rwood
,

and und e rgrow t h of long gra ss cau s e d a noi se s uffici e n t

t o st ar t l e anyon e who s e n e rv e s w e r e n o t t igh t ly brac e d ,

’
and which my p e n i s c e r t ai nly t oo w e ak t o d e s crib e .

T h e h e igh t o f an e l e p han t i s e qual t o dou bl e t h e

c ircumfe r e nc e of t h e for e foo t a s i t r e s t s o n t h e grou nd
-
.

T h e se gigan t ic mammal s d i ffe r much i n s iz e — o n e t e n

fe e t h igh i s v e ry rar e ; b u t t h e r e i s a s k e l e t o n of an
e l e han t i n t h e
p C al cu t t a M u s e u m e l e v e n fe e t t hr e e

i nch e s i n h e i g h t T h e A frican vari e t y i s t all e r and

.
,

p robably s t rong e r t han t h

,
e A s ia t ic b u t n o t,s o hand
s om e o r grac e ful I n habi t s t oo t h e y a r e di s s i milar
.
, ,

t h e I n dian s e ci e s d i s l i k e s t oo m uch of t h e s u n a n d
p ,
1 68 REM I N I SCE N CES OF I NDIA
on e s . I f N a t ur e h a s n o t gi v e n i n t e ll e c t t o t h e se
ani mal s i t h a s giv e n t h e m a r e markably k e e n in st inc t
, .

O n e h a s onl y t o hun t t h e m i n t h e i r wild s t o l e arn how

wond e rfully P rovid e nc e h a s t augh t t h e m t o choo se t h e
m o s t favourabl e grou nd wh e t h e r for fe e ding or e n
,

cam p i ng and t o r e s or t t o j u ngl e s wh e r e t h e i r p ond e rou s

, ,

bodi e s s o r e se m bl e rock s o r t h e dark fol iag e t ha t i t i s

d i fficul t for t h e sp or t s man t o di s t i ngu i sh t h e m fro m
s u rroundi ng obj e c t s wh il s t t h e i r fe e t a r e s o mad e t ha t
,

t h e y can t ram p ov e r any ki nd of grou nd wh e t h e r hard ,

o r s oft t horny o r s moo t h wi t hou t cau s i ng a s ound

, ,
.

S om e of t h e i r e ncam p i ng grou nd s a r e m od e l s of i n
e n u i t y s urround e d o n t hr e e s id e s by a t or t uou s riv e r
g , ,

i m p a ssabl e for ord inary m or t al s by r e a son e i t h e r o f

d e p t h of wa t e r p r e c i p i t a t e bank s qu ick sand s or e n
, , ,

t angl ing w e e d s ; wh i l s t t h e fou r t h s id e may b e p r o

t e c t e d by a t angl e d brak e o r a quagm i r e I n such a .

l ocal i t y t h e e l e p han t s a r e p e rfe c t l y s afe for t h e y canno t

,

b e a t t ack e d wi t hou t d u e warn i ng b e ing giv e n t h e m .

T o g e t wi t h i n t h i s e nclo s ur e t h e y will s crambl e down

,

t h e ban k wh e r e t h e wa t e r i s d e e p e s t and t h e n e i t h e r, ,

wading or s wi mm i ng u p or dow n st re am a s c e nd t h e ,

o p p o s i t e bank a hal f m il e o r mor e abov e wh e r e t h e y d e

-

s c e nd e d T h e i r i n st i nc t i s wo nd e rful and t h e i r m e mory

.
,

mu s t b e mo s t r e t e n t iv e T h e r e may n o t b e an e l e p han t
.

w i t h i n fi ft y m il e s or mor e of a p lac e ; b u t wh e n c e r t ai n
t re e s t h e re roduc e a fru i t t o wh ich t h e y a r e p ar t ial
p ,

t h e y will r e t u rn t h i t h e r a t t h e e xac t t im e y e ar aft e r

y e ar .

E l e phan t s hav e n o t br e d w i t h u s i n cap t i vi t y ; b u t

wild e l e p han t s a r e soo n t am e d aft e r cap t u r e and t h e r e
-
,

a r e s t ill t hou sand s availabl e i n B u rma A s sam and o t h e r

, ,
 H OW T O R I DE T H E M 9

coun t ri e s t o su p p ly all ou r wa n t s for t h e n e x t t hou san d

,

y e ars and p robably much long e r A t horoughly t ru s t

, .

wor t hy e l e p han t for all kind s o f sp or t and a t all t i m e s , ,

d o e s n o t e x i st T h e b e s t o f t h e m S how t h e wh i t e
.

fe a t h e r a t t i m e s wi t hou t cau se I r e m e mb e r wh e n
.

J ung B a h a d oo r bough t an e l e p han t a t B u r p e t t a and ,

g av e ru p e e s for h im for t h e D
,
uk e of E di n
’
bu rgh s sh ikar i n t h e N e p a a l T e rai i t w a s look e d ,

u p o n a s a mon st rou s p ric e b u t S inc e t h e rich P ri nc e s

a n d z e m i ndar s of I ndia hav e t ak e n t o s p or t and s t ri c t l y ,

p r e s e rv e all gam e i n t h e i r t e rri t ori e s far larg e r p ric e s

,

hav e b e e n p aid and I hav e n o doub t t ha t t h e r e a r e

,

many e l e p han t s now i n t h e p o sse ss io n o f na t iv e ch i e fs

wh ich t h e y woul d n o t par t wi t h for doubl e t h e s u m
aid by J u ng T h e r e i s s l e ndid sp o r t t o b e had i n
p .
p
B urma and A ssam ; b u t w i t hou t e l e p han t s i t i s m uch
w i se r n o t t o go t o t ho se r e mo t e p rov i nc e s for sh oo t i ng ,

for w i t hou t t h e se n e c e ssary slav e s you can n e i t h e r s e e

nor app roach t h e l ocal i t i e s wh e r e gam e abou nd s .

A lway s S t ick t o t h e sam e mahou t i f p o ss ibl e E v e ry .

horse man know s how di ffe r e n t ly a hor se b e hav e s a t

diffe r e n t t im e s and t ha t h i s b e haviour i s b u t a r e fl e x
,

o f t ha t of t h e man o n h i s back S o wi t h t h e e l e p han t

.
,

onl y h e i s mor e t im id an d mor e im p r e ss io nabl e t han

a hor se and t h e r e for e l e ss t o b e d e p e nd e d u p o n
, .

D o n o t k e e p a cowardl y mahou t ; h e will rui n you r

b e a st B u t mahou t s a s a rul e a r e p lucky I t mu st
.
, ,
.

b e r e m e mb e r e d t ha t t h e s p o r t s man i n t h e howdah
run s o r i ncur s l i t t l e ri s k wh il st t h e mahou t S i t t ing
, ,

o n t h e e l e han t s n e ck w i t h h i s l e g s dangl ing down

’

p , ,

i s i n co n s id e rabl e dang e r from a chargi ng t ig e r .

H e i s u narm e d sav e wi t h h i s drivi ng hook and t h e

,
-
,
1 79 REM IN I SCE N CES OF IN D I A
fr e qu e ncy of accid e n t s p rov e s t ha t h i s b e r t h i s n o t
a s i n e cur e ; mor e ov e r t h e fri c t io n cau se d by s i t t ing
,

o n t h e animal s n e ck p e rhap s for a whol e day i s

’

, ,

e xc e s s i v e H e al s o g e t s bi t t e n by num e rou s g a dfli e s

.

and mo squ i t o e s i s e x p o se d t o t h e su n all d a y and

, ,

h e h a s p e rha p s t o t ak e off and r e adj u s t t h e howdah

, ,

s e v e ral t i m e s duri ng t h e j ourn e y i f i t g e t s o u t of t h e ,

e r e ndicular a s i s t oo o ft e n t h e ca se Tak e a howdah

p p , .

ladd e r w i t h you s uch a s may b e g o t i n B ombay a n d

, ,

wi t h o n e a s a p a t t e rn any car pe n t e r w ill manufac t u r e

,

mor e for you Wh e n fold e d t h e ru ng s fi t i n t o a

.
,

hollow and t h e whol e i s abou t e igh t fe e t long and

,

u nd e r a foo t i n circu mfe r e nc e and l i e s along s id e t h e ,

h ow dah o n t h e guddl e u n t il r e qu i r e d for u se M aki ng .

t h e e l e p han t kn e e l down con s t an t ly i s v e ry a p t t o

di sarrang e t h e howdah and t o mak e i t lo p s id e d ,

.

I n t h e manag e m e n t of h i s b e a st a mahou t S houl d

n o t b e i n t e rfe r e d wi t h t oo m uch M or e can b e don e .

by fi rm n e ss an d j udi ciou s t r e a t m e n t t han by bullyi n g

o r naggi ng b u t wh e n n e c e s sary do n o t h e s i t a t e t o
, , ,

mak e a s e v e r e e xam p l e of a man wh o wil fully di s ob e y s

your ord e r s or t ak e s advan t ag e of your ki ndn e ss .

M any of t h e mahou t s e n t e r i n t o t h e sp iri t of t h e cha se ,

and l ik e a s ucc e s s ful S p or t s man for a ma st e r A t t h e .

e n d of a t ri I alway s di vid e d all t h e Gov rnm n t

p e e

r e ward s amo ng s t t h e m t h e o n e o n my ridi ng e l e p han t

,
-

g e t t i ng ra t h e r mor e t han t h e r e s t U s ually t h i s mor e .

t han doubl e d t h e i r a
p y for t h e t i m e t h e y w e r e o ut and ,

i n s t ill e d gr e a t e r z e al for t h e more dang e rou s b e a st s I

,

kill e d t h e mor e t h e y g o t and wi t hou t t h e h e ar t y c o

, ,

o p e ra t ion of your mahou t s mor e p ar t icularl y of t h e o n e

,

wi t h you you wil l g e t l i t t l e or no sp o r t

, .
1 72 RE M IN I SCE N CES OF I N D IA

s
p ac e ,
animal s t ood a t bay W e dd e rburn p ro p o se d
th e .

to Q ocha t o accom p any h i m i n t o t h i s glad e b u t ,

t ha t e x p e ri e nc e d s h i k a r i e s aid S ah ib I hav e n e v e r ,
‘
,

known any e l e p han t t ak e s o many bull e t s H e i s a .

W e a r e i n bad l uck t o day — l e av e

s hai t an
[ a d e vil
] .
-

h i m alon e H e h a s no t u sk s and b e s id e s h e i s s ur e
.
, , ,

t o d ie . Y ou hav e b u t o n e barr e l load e d — m y rifl e

i s e m p t y ; t h e r e i s n o t a t r e e n e ar and t h e j a n w a r ,

m e an s figh t i ng .
’

W e dd e rburn who ough t t o hav e know n b e t t e r fo r

, ,

t h e O l d man s cou rag e w a s e rbial and h e had b e e n

’

p rov ,

t h e b e s t sh i k a r i e of M i cha e l (t h e gr e a t e l e p han t s ho t of

I ndia i n t ho se day s ) call e d h i m a coward and said , , ,

‘ ’
W e ll s t ay h e r e and s e e h ow I w ill kill h i m and
, , ,

ru sh e d o n t o h i s fa t e T h e rogu e allow e d W e dd e r .

burn t o g e t clo se u p t o h i m and t h e n wh e e l e d rou nd ,

t o t h e charg e W e dd e rburn fi r e d fail e d t o s t o p h i m

.
, ,

t u rn e d t o run and t hough t h e s ward w a s a s s moo t h

, ,

a s a lawn h e t ri p p e d and fe ll
,
B e fore t h e s mok e .

cl e ar e d away h i s body w a s a shap e l e ss ma ss of clay

,
.

T h e b e a s t w a s fou nd d e ad t h e n e x t day w i t h t w e n t y
t w o bull e t s i n h i m any o n e o f wh ich Q ocha d e clar e d,

woul d hav e k ill e d an ordi nary an i mal .

F or t ig e r s hoo t ing i n t h e p lai n s o f t h e E a s t e l e p han t s

-

a r e a n e c e s s i t y and t o mak e t h e b e s t u s e of t h e m i t i s
,

of i m p or t anc e t ha t t h e furn i t ur e S hould b e of t h e b e st

and l igh t e st com p a t ibl e w i t h S t r e ng t h N o w t ha t .

br e e ch loadi ng ri fl e s and gun s a r e i n u n iv e rsal u se

-
,

doubl e howdah s a r e no long e r r e qu i r e d E v e n i n .

form e r day s wh e n t h e r e w a s s om e e xcu s e for t h e m

, ,

t h e y w e re a nu i s anc e for a man b e h i nd you oft e n ,

in t e rfe r e d wi t h a sho t a t a b e a st i n full cha se aft e r you r

 E LE P H A N T E Q U I P A G E 1 75

st e e d and I hav e oft e n s av e d my an i mal from b e ing

,

c u t by t urn ing roun d i n t h e h owdah and d ro i ng a

pp
b e a st wh e n clo se t o t h e e l e p han t s quar t e r wh ich I
’

could n o t hav e don e had t h e r e b e e n a man b e h i nd .

B e s id e s t h e l e ss w e igh t you hav e on you r ridi ng

,

b e a st s back t h e b e t t e r ; t h e r e fo r e g e t a howdah mad e

’

a s l igh t a s
p o ss ibl e . T h e
p or t ion of t h e h owdah wh ich
’
r e s t s ov e r t h e e l e p han t s sp i n e should b e hollow e d
ou t . T h e w e igh t s houl d b e e qually di s t ribu t e d o n
e i t h e r s i d e o f t h e s p i n e l ongi t udinally wi t h t h e bar s ,

r e st i ng o n t h e p a d wh ich sh ould b e sp e cially mad e and

,

fi t t e d for e ach e l e p han t and s t uffe d wi t h p i t h wh ich

, ,

can b e g o t i n al mo s t e v e ry mar sh U n d e r t h e p a d .

b e a w e ll s t uffe d g a da e /a /i —wool i s
’
t h e re s houl d -

—
b e t t e r t han co t t on for st u ffi n g and ano t h e r s im ila r
o n e abov e t h e a d o n wh ich t h e how d ah r e s t s t o
p ,
p re

v e n t i t fro m s l i pp ing T h e l ongi t udi nal bar s hav e i ro n

.

ri ng s t h rough wh i ch ro p e s w i t h p i e c e s of l e a t h e r
s oft e n e d by e l bow gr e a se a r e a t t ach e d and p a sse d ,

u nd e r t h e t h roa t and t ail —se cur e l y t i e d —t o p re v e n t

t h e howdah fro m s h ift i ng backward s o r forward s The .

floor of t h e howdah shoul d b e rai se d a t l e a s t fou r

i nch e s abov e t h e se longi t udi nal bars t o k e e p i t cl e ar o f
,

t h e pa d . I p r e fe r p lanki ng t h e bo t t o m of a howdah ,

fo r t h e n t h e mo t io n i s n o t s o m uch fe l t t hough s om e ,

e o l e d i s e n s e wi t h i t b u t i f you s t and on t h e p a d
p p p ,

you w ill fe e l t h e mo t io n o f t h e e l e p han t far mor e t han

i f you s t and o n a board e d floor R ou nd t h e s id e s o f
.

t h e howdah nail s t ro ng c é a r — sooi i e clo t h wh ich can b e,

bough t i n any bazaar and giv e i t t w o coa t s of gr e e n

,

p ain t
, wh ich r e nd e r s i t wa t e r roof and
p , p r e v e n t s rai n
drift ing o n t o you r gun s and t ackl e To p ro t e c t you r .
1 74 REM IN I SCE N CES OF I ND IA

gun s fu r t h e r se w t w o s t ri p s of wa t e r p roof cl o t h o n t o
,

t h e t o p i ron bars t o s e rv e a s fla p s t o b e t h rown ov e r

,

t h e gun s i n ca s e rai n com e s on T h e low e r p or t io n

.

should b e w e igh t e d by l e ad t o p r e v e n t i t s b e ing bl own

,

o ff B y t aking t h i s S im p l e p r e ca u t ion I hav e k e p t my

.

w e a p on s p e rfe c t ly dry i n t h e w e t t e s t w e a t h e r T h e .

fron t of t h e howdah S houl d n o t b e t oo h igh and s houl d ,

s ui t t h e h e igh t o f t h e s p o r t s man allowi ng h i s e lbow s

,

t o b e cl e ar of t h e h igh e s t p or t ion A howdah mad e

.

fo r a man s ix fe e t t w o i nch e s woul d n o t s u i t a man

o f fi v e fe e t e igh t i nch e s , and v i c e v e r sci T h e back .

s hould b e abou t a foo t l e ss i n h e igh t t han t h e fron t .

B u t t h e mo s t e ss e n t ial p ar t i s t h e h e igh t o f t h e s e a t
from t h e floor : i t s houl d fi t e xac t ly i n s id e t h e b e nd o f
t h e kn e e of t h e rid e r I f low e r s hould t h e e l e p han t j e rk
.
,

s udd e nly fo rward t h e r i d e r i s a p t t o go backward s o u t

,

o f t h e howdah i f h igh e r t h e con st an t fric t ion agai n s t

,

t h e back of t h e t h igh i s v e ry annoyi ng and i s a p t t o ,

t h row o n e forward —wh e r e a s i f fi t t e d a s r e co m m e nd e d ,

your body s way s t o and fro and you acqu i r e t h e s wi ng

,

s o n e c e ss ary fo r corr e c t s hoo t i ng F our gun s i n a

.

howdah a r e am p l e —t w o o n e ach s id e R ack s a r e .

fi t t e d o n wh ich t h e ri fl e st ock s r e st and t h e clo se r and

,

t igh t e r t h e y fi t t h e b e t t e r ; t h e bar i n fron t o n w h ich

,

t h e barr e l s r e s t s hould b e of wood and t h e no t ch e s

,

for t h e barr e l s s houl d b e ou t j u st larg e e nough

and no mor e and l i n e d w i t h fe l t so a s t o avo id t h e
, ,

l e a st ra t t l i ng I n fro n t t h e r e s hould b e a long box

.

wi t h com p ar t m e n t s for car t ridg e s al s o l i n e d wi t h fe l t

, .

To avoid confu s ion hav e you r w e ap on s of t h e s am e

,

bor e w i t h p e rha p s o n e e xc e p t ion and t ha t a 5 77 ;

, ,

b u t t h e car t ridg e s for an e x p r e ss a r e e a s ily di s t i ngui s h

1 76 REM I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

w rong i f yo u giv e e ach doubl e T hu s an e l e p han t .

,

t e n fe e t i n h e igh t w ill g e t dail y t e n s e e r s i n cam p b u t ,

wh e n hun t ing dail y t w e n t y s e e r s i n addi t ion t o h i s ,

e /za r a / fi wh ich s hould b e vari e d a s oft e n a s p o ss i bl e

‘
.

F e e ding e l e p han t s al way s on t h e sam e fodd e r do e s n o t

an s w e r .

N e v e r giv e an e l e p han t a s or e back ; i t n o t onl y

i ncap aci t a t e s h i m for t h e t i m e b e i ng b u t r e n d e rs h im ,

l e ss s t anch aft e rward s L anc i n g t h e back of an

.

e l e p han t t o l e t o u t t h e p u s c e r t ai nly h e l p s t o d e t e ri ora t e

h i m and t o l e s se n h is courag e N e v e r allow you r .

e l e p han t t o mak e a foo t bal l of a fall e n b e a s t ; i t i s a p t

t o mak e h i m v iciou s N a t urall y o n e o f t h e s e gian t s

.
,

would n o t hur t a worm b u t h e can b e t augh t any t h i ng

, ,

and for h un t i ng p urp o s e s I would s oon e r own a coward

t han a vic iou s b e a s t .

O n e O f t h e narrow e s t e s ca p e s I e v e r had w a s a t
t h e foo t of t h e Y o m a h s W e had b e e n followi ng u p
.

i s i zze j l and w e r e e n t e ri ng a t unn e ll e d sp ac e wi t h a l o t

‘

of bamboo s o n o n e s id e and a h u g e bu t t r e ss t r e e on -

th e othe r . W e w e r e n o t e x p e c t i ng e l e p han t s i nd e e d ,

w e had s e e n no foo t mark s o f t h e m t h e whol e day I .

had t h e doubl e L y e ll i n my hand and S h o a y J ah had ,

t h e L ang wh e n w i t h a fi e ndi s h s hri e k a larg e t u s k e r

,

charg e d u s s udd e nly I al way s carry my w e a p on s o n

.

full cock ; t h e ri fl e w a s a v e ry handy o n e w i t h shor t

barr e l s N o 1 0 bo r e
, . I had j u s t t i m e t o fi r e a righ t
.

and l e ft and t o t h row my se l f ov e r a bu t t r e ss and

, ,

th e sh i k a r i e follow e d s ui t T h e im p e t u s of t h e
.

bru t e t ook h i m o n fully fi ft y yard s T h e bull e t s .

C/za r a /z—g re e n foo d for e l e ph a n ts

—wi ld
.

I Tsi n e c a t tl e .
 A DA N G E R O US B EAS T 1 77

w e r e w e ll p lac e d ; t h e fir st i n t h e bum p b e t w e e n ,

t h e e y e s would hav e kill e d h i m had I b e e n kn e e l i ng

,

down b u t n o t having t i m e for t ha t I fire d from t h e

, ,

s hould e r s t and ing u p a t a di s t anc e o f only fi v e o r s i x

,

yard s T h e l e ft sh o t w a s h igh e r and Ov e r t h e l e ft

.
,

e ye . T h e blood p ouring down did n o t i m p rov e h i s

v i s ion ; t h e s mok e t o o hung and e nabl e d u s t o , , ,

c rawl round an d t o g e t b e h i nd a r e gular bulwark o f

f
b u t t r e sse s fi T h i s fi e nd of an e l e p han t r e gularly
hu n t e d u s ; b u t t h e O i l t re e s w e r e clo se ; i n h is hal f -

daz e d and hal f bl i nd s t a t e h e w a s ra t h e r abroad

-
,

and I gav e h i m s e v e ral sho t s N o n e o f t h e m how .

,

e ve r ,
w e r e a t t h e p ro p e r angl e and fi ndi ng t ha t h e ,

could n o t g e t a t u s h e r e t r e a t e d U p on t h i s w e
, .

t ook u p h i s foo t s t e p s and se e i ng a s p ac e wh e r e hug e ,

bamboo s gr e w wi t hou t u nd e rgrow t h w e ran ah e ad , ,

and t ook u p a p o s i t ion b e h i nd a clum p of mal e

bamboo s o f wh ich t h e st e m s a r e far s t rong e r t han
,

t ho se of t h e fe mal e o r hollow ki nd I wai t e d p a t i e n t l y .

u n t il h e afford e d a t e m p l e s ho t an d t h e n t h e L ang ,

brough t h i m dow n d e ad .

Wh il st i n t h e B a sse i n d i s t ric t I w a s a s k e d t o s hoo t ,

a mu st m u c k n a h and I follow e d h i s t rail for fi v e day s

, ,

t orm e n t e d t o d e a t h by mo s qu i t o e s l e e ch e s and t ick s , , .

Th i s e l e p han t w a s cr e di t e d wi t h havi ng kill e d s om e

doz e n m e n H e had b e e n a t am e e l e p han t b e longi ng
.

’
t o a m o z a d a r r b u t had e s ca p e d and had b e com e t h e
, ,

t e rror o f t h e d i st ri c t H e had lo s t all fe ar of man .

,

T h e se a re t re e s y e i ldi g a
n n oil wh ic h th e i g e a t ly p ize
nat ves r r

th e i oo t s a e
r r r o ft e n fi v e fe e t h i gh , and ru n c o n side a b l e di st a c e s
r n

at r i g h t a gl e s
n

—
.

i Al oe a a a r
’
i
a n a t v e of c a l fi i .
1 78 RE M IN I SCE N CES OF
!

INDIA

and t hr e e sh ik a r ie s who on di ffe r e n t occa s ion s had

,

gon e aft e r h i m for t h e s ak e of t h e r e ward o ffe r e d

2 0 0 ru p e e s — had n e v e r r e t u rn e d At la s t t h e offic ial s
.

could n o t i nduc e any of t h e na t iv e s t o go aft e r h i m .

H e u se d t o go gr e a t di s t anc e s a t n igh t and t o d e s t roy ,

i mm e n se quan t i t i e s of grai n n o t only i n t h e e a r b u t i n

,

granari e s I t w a s t h e m on s oon and al t hough D O yl y

’

.
,

and I had t ri e d e l e p han t s hoo t i ng i n t h e rai n s wi t h

-

s ignal failur e t h e p oo r p e o p l e w e r e s o u rg e n t t h a t I
,

brok e t hrough m y r e s olv e n o t t o hu n t a t t ha t se a s on ,

and t aki ng a fe w K ar e n s wi t h m e t o carry my baggag e ,

I cro sse d ov e r t o D alhou s i e wh e nc e by d e viou s p a t h s

,

I w a s t ak e n t o C a p e N e g r a i s F oo t mar k s of e l e p han t s
.
-

w e r e p l e n t i ful b u t non e of t h e m b e long e d t o t h e o n e

,

w e w e r e i n S e arch of O n t h e morn ing of t h e t h i rd

.

d a y w e e n t e r e d a rav i n e full o f rock s and wa t e r

,

cour se s wh e r e t h e l e e ch e s w e r e e nough t o dri v e o n e

,

fran t ic H e r e w e fi r st cam e u p on t h e hom ic id e s ’

t rail . Th e r e w a s a l i t t l e cul t iva t io n b e longi ng t o s om e

K ar e n s abou t fou r m il e s away and t h e p oor p e o p l e ,

had block e d e v e ry p a ss b u t o n e and t ha t w a s t oo ,

w id e Th e y w e r e goi ng t o c u t a d e e p di t ch acro ss i t
.
,

wh e n I arriv e d b u t I t old t h e m n o t t o do so a s I would

, ,

t ak e u p my o s t on a bar e gran i t e rock fully fift e e n fe e t

p ,

h igh w i t h s carp e d s id e s e xc e p t t o t h e r e ar wh e r e a s
, , , ,

i t s lo p e d a b i t w e could cl imb u p by m e an s of bamboo

,

ladd e r s I cho se t h i s sp o t b e cau se b e i ng a S h e e t of

.
,

rock t h e r e w e r e no l e e ch e s o n i t and I had al r e ady

, ,

s uffe r e d s o gri e vou s l y t ha t wi t h a fe w mor e s uch i n

fli c t i o n s I s hould b e unabl e t o p u t foo t t o t h e grou nd

for t h e se p e s t s g e t i n t o e v e ry p ar t of o n e s body b u t ’

se e m mor e ar t icularly t r f r t aki ng t h i r abo de

p o p e e u
p e
1 80 REM I N I SCE N CES OF I N D IA
doz e n N o 1 0 b e l t e d bull e t s i n t o h i s h e ad wi t hou t much
.

e ffe c t b u t wh e n t h e se cond t r e e gav e way and h e fe ll ,

backward s i n s crambl ing u p h e e x p o se d t h e j unc t i o n

,

of t h e h e ad and sp i n e wh e r e a ball from t h e J o se p h

,

L ang caugh t h i m a c rack wh ich r e sou nd e d t h rough

t h e j ungl e N e x t mom e n t h e san k down on h is kn e e s
.

— d e ad —b u t n o t b e fore h e had kill e d o n e o f t h e t w o

m e n who had follow e d h i m .

M arch ing from P rom e t o R angoon su rv e yi ng a s I , ,

‘

w e n t along i n t h e H e n sa da d i s t ric t t h e p e o pl e com

lai n e d bi t t e rl y of t h e damag e do n e t o t h e i r c ro s
p
p .

H avi ng b e e n p r e t t y w e ll di sarm e d by C ol on e l D B rown .

,

t h e D e p u t y C omm i ss ion e r t h e y co m p lain e d t ha t t h e y

-
,

w e r e now h e l p l e ss and t ha t i f t h e h e rd s of e l e p han t s

, ,

w e re n o t driv e n off t h e y would lo se all t h e i r p addy

, ,

and would hav e t o s t arv e T h e y had h e ard from my .

i n t e rp r e t e r t ha t I w a s v e ry fond of shoo t i ng : would I

com e t o t h e r e s cu e ? I t old t h e m I had no t im e t o
s ar e a s I had t o m e e t S co t t of t h E ngi n e e rs i n
p , e , ,

R angoon on a c e r t a i n d a y and b e s id e s i f I did k i ll an ,

e l e han t o r t w o i t would n o t avail t h e m much a s t h e y

p , ,

se e m e d t o b e i n h e rd s j u d gi ng by t h e mark s t h e y h a d
,

l e ft .

‘ ‘ ‘
N o t so T u c k i n fi t h e y s aid ; t h e l e ad e r s a r e t w o
,

t u sk e r s t h e i mag e o f o n e ano t h e r ; t h e y a r e t h e p rim e

,

m ov e r s and do n o t fe ar man
, t h e y a r e clo s e by i f yo u ;

will shoo t t h e m t h e r e st will ru n away

‘
Wha t do you call clo se I a ske d .

‘
W e will t ak e you u p t o t h e m i n a cou p l e o f hou rs ,
"

t h e y said . Th e se t w o alway s r e mai n t og e t h e r and ap ar t

from t h e r e s t i f y o u will kill t h e m w e can driv e t h e r e st
T u ek i n —t h e e q i u v ale n t of my lo d r .
’
182 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

u
p a h illock
, and s crambl e d along a narrow
p a t h t ill I
w a s qui t e blown . I w a s righ t glad wh e n h e hal t e d i n a
v e ry narrow rav i n e and e n s conc e d h i m se lf b e h i nd a hug e
rock givi ng m e O p p or t un i t y of a m uch n e e d e d r e s t
,
-
.

H e will p a ss t h i s t h e man s aid s o I wai t e d

’

, ,

a t i e n t l y wi t h bo t h ri fl e s o n t h e full cock Pr e se n t ly
p .

t h e e l e p han t a p p e ar e d looki n g v e ry d i s mal and l e t t in g

, ,

h im g e t o p p o s i t e and di s t an t only abou t six p ac e s I

, ,

u t bo t h ball s i n t o h i s e a r and h e t o o d ro e d d e ad
p , pp
 [ 1 83 ]

C H A PT E R VI I I .

B U F F AL OE S .

W i l d b u fla l oe s
’

m or e da ge n i ge r s—Ve y di ffic u l t t o k i l l
r ou s th a n t r

P le tif l in B m
n u a d Assa m —
ur a n H o w w i l d b u ll s a pp op i a t e r r

h e d s—D O yl y a d h i s p o y t osse d— A c h i e C a m p b e l l s e l e ph a t
’ ’
r n n r n

ov e t h r o w —
r H i s c i t i c a l p osi t i on —I a m c a ll e d t o h i s e sc u e —
n r A r

sa v a g e e c ou n t e r —
n A u a wa y e l e ph a t — r n M e e t a t i ge r —E u n

co un t e w i th a b l l wh i h figh t s de sp e a t e ly—
r u c A p u g a c i ou s h e r d r n

—C h a ge d by a c ou pl e of b u l l s
r .

I W O U L D s oo n e r m e e t a t ig e r o n foo t i n t h e o p e n t han
a buffal o I look u p o n buffalo e s e i t h e r i n t h e E a st or
.
,

i n A fri ca a s t h e mo s t savag e o f al l obj e c t s of cha se

, .

S om e t im e s t h e y a r e e a s y e nough t o kill b u t far mo r e ,

fr e qu e n t ly t h e y s e e m t o b e ar a charm e d l i fe and t h e ,

m or e t h e y a r e riddl e d t h e mo r e l iv e ly and s avag e

,

the y ge t .T h e y a re fai rl y p l e n t i ful i n B urma b u t ,

s warm i n A ss am I n S ou t h e rn I ndia t h e y a r e onl y

.

found i n a w ild s t a t e i n t h e nor t h e rn S i rcars n e ar ,

D a r a c o n d a an d i n B u s t a r .

T h e o rdi nary bu ffalo e s i n bondag e e xc e p t o n t h e ,

N e i lg h e r r i e s a r e p oor looking hal f st arv e d bru t e s

,
-
,
-
,

br e d i n and i n B u t acro ss t h e B ay of B e ngal t h e

.

e o l e ke e no t am e bull s and t u rn o u t t h e i r num e rou s

p p p ,

h e rd s i n t o t h e va st p rai ri e s and t ru st t o t h e wild bull s ,

t o k e e p u p t h e s u p p ly A w ild bull t ak e s u p wi t h t e n
.
1 84 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF IN DIA
or fift e e n cow s At fir st h e i s sh y and only a ssoc ia t e s
.
,

w i t h t h e m during t h e day b u t gradually h e lo se s all ,

t im idi t y and accom p an i e s t h e m t o t h e p lac e wh e r e

,

t h e y a r e t e t h e r e d a t n igh t and hov e rs abou t t h e m,

u n t il t h e y a r e r e l e a se d a t daybr e ak aft e r m ilking ,

wh e n h e r e t i r e s t o graz e w i t h t h e m duri ng t h e day .

I n t im e h e car e s so l i t t l e for t h e p e o p l e t ha t h e wo n t ’

allow t h e k e e p e rs t o go t o t h e i r cow s and h a s t h e n t o ,

b e kill e d for t o driv e h i m off i s an i m p o ss ibil i t y

, The .

e o l e r e s or t t o many d e v ic e s t o e ffe c t h i s d e a t h an d
p p ,

mo st ly su cc e e d ; b u t i f t h e r e b e any E uro p e an sp or t s
man abou t t h e y se e k h i s aid A l t hough I d i sl ik e t h e
, .

A ssam e se v e ry much y e t I hav e oft e n rid t h e m of ,

t h i s nu i sanc e mor e will i ngly b e cau s e t h e s e bull s a r e

,

g e n e rally t h e p ic k of a wild h e rd and carry good ,

h e ad s.

Th e r e i s v e ry l i t t l e di ffe re nc e i n S iz e and fe roc i t y

b e t w e e n t h e dom e s t ica t e d and t h e j ungl e buffalo e s i n
t h e se cou n t ri e s B o t h i n B urma an d A ssam a t am e
.

cow will go for a E uro p e an wh il st S h e w ill allow t h e ,

s mall e s t na t iv e lad t o dri v e h e r abou t and t o whack

h e r t o h i s h e ar t s con t e n t
’
Wh il st s ni p e —
s hoo t i ng
. I ,

hav e b e e n cha s e d many t im e s and e s cap e d wi t h

d i fficul t y D O y l y o f t h e C om m i ss io n i n B u rma
’
.
, ,

t h inki ng t o i n t im ida t e o n e charg e d h e r o n hor s e back

, ,

b u t sh e t o sse d h i m and h i s p ony and did for t h e la t t e r ,

.

A rch ibal d C am p b e ll i n A s sam had a v e ry narrow

, ,

e s ca e
p . H e w a s o u t s hoo t i ng o n a s malli s h e l e p han t

o n a p a d ; h e wou nd e d a bull wh ich charg e d and

ov e r t h r e w t h e e l e p han t and k e p t p roddi ng i t v iciou sly
,

wh il s t i t lay on t h e ground t h i s e nabl e d C am p b e ll t o

crawl away I t w a s i n t h e old m uzzl e loading day s ;
.
-
1 86 RE M I N I SC E N C E S OF I N D IA

d id n o t know wh a t t o do or wh e t h e r t h e ir ma s t e r w a s ,

d e ad o r al iv e Th e r e w a s n o t a gun of t h e t w o wi t h
.

C am p b e ll o n e had b e e n l e ft wh e r e t h e e nco u n t e r had

,

t ak e n p lac e and t h e o t h e r h e had dro pp e d a t t h e

,

bo t t om of t h e t re e i n wh ich h e h a d t ak e n r e fug e .

I w a s abou t e igh t m il e s o ff s u p e ri n t e ndi ng t h e co n ,

s t ru c t io n of a bridg e C am p b e ll s e l e p han t w a s b adl y

.
’

hur t and t h e o t h e r s had go n e for t h e ir fodd e r ; b u t

,

a cou p l e of m e n se t o u t on foo t wi t h t h e mahou t and ,

r e ach e d m e abou t 3 p m wi t h t h e n e w s t ha t C am p b e l l .

had b e e n kill e d I g o t o n t o m y e l e p han t a s qu ickly

.

as I could m oun t e d t w o of t h e m e ss e ng e rs t o se rv e
,

a s guid e s and mad e for t h e s c e n e of ac t ion dir e c t

,

acro ss coun t ry F or t u na t e l y C am p b e ll s mahou t w a s

.
’

a Ca c h a r i e wh o kn e w t h e cou n t ry and guid e d m e

,

s t raigh t ; b u t I had many na s t y nullah s t o c ro s s and ,

i t w a s clo s e on s i x b e for e I g o t t o m y d e s t i na t ion I .

had no difficul t y i n foll owing t h e t rail ; t h e bull had

l e ft mark s of blood b e h i nd h i m and s oon I had t h e ,

p l e a su r e of s e e ing my fri e n d
p e rch ed o n t h e t r ee ,

and t h e bull o n guard ov e r h im I w a s o n a larg e .

e l e han t
p g e n e rally s t anch
,
and no t wi t h s t anding ,
t h e

S haki ng of t h e h e ad and t h e awi ng o f t h e grou nd

p ,

all d e no t i ng ho s t il e i n t e n t ion s I mad e s t raigh t for t h e ,

bull Wh e n I w a s abou t fi ft y p ac e s off h e cam e fo r

.
,

me . At fi r s t h e carri e d h i s no se w e ll u p i n t h e ai r ,

moving a t a can t e r w i t h h i s ma ss iv e horn s t h rown ,

back ov e r h i s broad back ; b u t a s h e g o t cl o se r h i s

p ac e i ncr e a s e d and wh e n l e ss t han t e n yard s off h e
,

low e r e d h is h e ad T h i s w a s t h e O pp or t u ni t y I had
.

b e e n wai t i ng for As I fi r e d my e l e p han t wh e e l e d

.
,

round ; h e had b e e n s o s t e ady h i th e r t o I had n o t ,

 A WO U N DE D B ULL 18 7

an t ici p a t e d s uch a mov e on h i s p ar t M y bull e t t oo k .

e ffe c t b u t n o t i n a mor t al ar t and t h e n e x t m om e n t

, p ,

t h e e l e p han t s quar t e r w a s ac t ing t h e p ar t of a buffe r

’

i n t o wh ich t h e bul l drov e h i s m igh t y h orn s w i t h all

t h e forc e a t h i s command A ft e r t h e fi r s t bl ow m y
.

e l e han t w a s i n full fl igh t b u t t h e bull e a s ily k e t u

p , p p
wi t h h im p rodding h i m b e h i nd a s a ge n t l e h i n t n o t t o
,

s lack e n h i s ac e
p .

I n t h e m e anwh il e fi ndi ng t h e coa s t cl e ar C am p b e ll

, ,

had call e d o u t t o t h e p e o p l e o n my sp are e l e p han t t o

com e t o h im and h e m oun t e d i t off t h e t r e e As w e
, .

a ss e d t h e lac e wh e r e h e had b e e n o v e r t h rown h i s

p p ,

mah ou t had p ick e d u p h i s sp ar e ri fl e and p owd e r fla sk -

,

an d h e lo st n o t i m e i n r e cov e ri ng t h e o n e h e had
dro p p e d and follow e d i n cha se
, I had n o t b e e n idl e ;
.

t h e b e a s t I w a s o n w a s v e ry rough and wh il s t goi ng ,

a t full s e e d i t w a s n o t e a s y t o s hoo t corr e c t l y— t o

p
r e load far hard e r for m in e w e r e all muzzl e loadi ng
,
-

gun s—b u t I gav e h i m a s t i ng e r or t w o wh ich mad e ,

h im s hak e h i s h e ad i n gre a t d i sap p roval D i r e c t l y h e .

h e ard t h e a p p roach ing foo t st e p s of t h e o t h e r e l e p han t ,

h e l e ft off follow ing m e and h i d b e h i nd a cl um p

,
I .

y e ll e d o u t t o C am p b e ll t o l ook o u t for t h e b e a st w a s
,

clo se a t hand ; and i t w a s a s w e ll t ha t I did s o o r h e ,

m igh t hav e b e e n t ak e n unawar e s for wh e r e w e n o w,

w e r e t h e r e w a s gra ss s u ffic i e n t ly h igh t o h id e e v e n

t h e colo s sal body o f an a r zz i buffalo )
( .

C am p b e ll w a s se a t e d o n t h e p a d j u s t b e h i nd t h e
mahou t and i n fron t of t h e gu id e s
,
I t is n ot .

e a s y t o s h oo t off a a d e xc e p t ing t o t h e l e ft fron t

p .

W h e n t h e bul l charg e d from t h e righ t C am p b e ll u s e d ,

h i s rifl e l ik e a p i s t ol firi ng bo t h barr e l s wi t hou t e ffe c t

,
.
1 88 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF IND IA

The bull clo se d and s t ruc k t h e e l e p han t on t h e

,

s hould e r t h e horn s go i ng on e i t h e r s id e of t h e for e

,

l e g graz i ng t h e s ki n of t h e b e lly and ch e s t onl y

,
.

T h e blow fairl y s t agg e r e d t h e e l e p han t b u t for a ,

wond e r sh e t u rn e d and bu t t e d h e r a ssailan t knocki ng ,

h i m Cl e an down I w a s coming back a s fa st a s I

.

could b u t t h e i n furia t e d bull n o t a b i t aba sh e d p ick e d

, , ,

h i m se l f u p re c e ivi ng a s ho t fro m C am p b e ll a s h e did

,

s o and bor e down o n m e a s fa st a s h e could i n h i s

,

e n fe e bl e d s t a t e fo r h e had a t l e a st se v e n o r e igh t
,

bull e t s i n h i m C all i ng o u t t o m y mah ou t t ha t I

.

would flay h i m al iv e i f h e allow e d h i s b e a st t o t urn I ,

o p e n e d fi r e I had fou r doubl e ri fl e s b u t had manag e d ,

t o r e load b u t t w o C am pb e l l t urn e d h is e l e p han t

.
,

S O t ha t h e coul d fi r e al s o M y t h i rd s ho t caugh t t h e
.

buffalo fai rly i n t h e sp in e o f t h e n e ck and ov e r h e ,

w e n t a com p l e t e s om e r s aul t h i s hug e quar t e r s al igh t

, ,

i ng on t h e ground wi t h i n a foo t o f my e l e p han t s ’

t runk Th i s w a s mor e t han t h e b e a st could s t and

.
,

and no t wi t h st anding all t h e e x e r t ion s o f t h e m ahou t

, ,

h e t u rn e d t ail and would n o t p ull u p u n t il h e r e ach e d

,

m y cam p havi ng cro sse d many v e ry na st y nullah s a t

,

full sp e e d and i n t h e dark for a t t h e co nclu s ion o f t h e

,

figh t t h e l igh t of day had p a s se d away C am p b e l l .

t urn e d u p abou t an hou r aft e rward s and S p e n t t h e ,

n igh t wi t h m e N e x t day w e w e n t back and r e

.

cov e r e d ou r quarry C am p b e ll t ook t h e h e ad t h e

.
,

fi n e st b u t o n e I hav e e v e r se e n ; t h e horn s w e r e v e ry
ma ss iv e and m e a su r e d from t ip t o t ip and ac ro ss
,

t h e for e h e ad t w e l v e fe e t t hr e e i nch e s wh ich for a bull ,

i s e normou s T h e cow s hav e t h e long e s t horn s and

.
,

t h e b e s t h e ad I e v e r sa w w a s t h ir t e e n fe e t e igh t i nch e s
1
90 REM I N I SCE N C E S OF I ND IA

S he ood a s s t e ady a s a rock s o I w a s abl e t o p u t i n

st ,

a righ t and l e ft and t h e b e a st roll e d ov e r al mo st

, ,

t ouch ing t h e h i nd l e g s o f m y e l e p han t who l e t o u t a t

-
,

h i m w i t h o n e foo t and se n t h i m flyi ng H e w a s n o t

, .

d e ad and t ri e d t o charg e agai n b u t a cou pl e mor e

, ,

p ill s se t t l e d h im Wh e n my
. e
p p o l e cam e u
p t h e y ,

brough t i m p or t an t l e t t e r s wh ich had j u s t arriv e d and ,

I had t o go back t o T ongho a t o nc e ; b u t I r e t urn e d

w i t h t w o o t h e r s i n a w e e k and t h e n v i s i t e d G na —
, E e in .

I had kill e d much and vari e d gam e b e for e I cam e

a cro s s bu ffalo e s i n B urma T h e t ru t h i s dur i ng t h e
.
,

mon t h s which w e d e vo t e d t o S p or t t h e én éa /i w e r e i n ,

t h e mar s hy land s i n t h e Y o m a h s and o t h e r h illy di s

t r i c t s ; t h e y onl y cam e i n t o t h e p lai n s wh e n t h e rai n s

com m e nc e d j u s t a s w e w e r e l e avi ng off s hoo t ing

, .

T hu s al t hough any t h i ng b u t s carc e w e s e ldom sa w

, ,

t he m I had b e e n s hoo t ing wi t h t w o o ffic e r s of t h e

.

6 9 t h —B oyl e an d M add e n W e had wound e d a v e ry

.

l arg e gaur and i n followi ng h i m u p w e s t ar t e d a young

,

bull and a s h e w e n t away wi t h h i s t ail i n t h e air I

,

brough t h im dow n J u s t t h e n a h e rd o f buffalo e s p u t

.

i n an app e aranc e and off w e w e n t i n cha s e b u t s oon

, ,

lo st t h e m A ft e r hu n t ing abou t for s om e t i m e —I w a s

.

ah e ad of m y com rad e s — I s a w a v e ry larg e bull buffalo

abou t fift y yard s off u nco nc e rn e dly brow s i ng
, I .

b e ckon e d t o t ho s e b e h i nd t o hu rry u p and wh e n t h e y ,

cam e u p w e all o p e n e d fi r e T h e bull w a s h i t b u t h e

.
,

t urn e d and ran t hrough a b e l t o f for e s t Wh il st m y .

com p an ion s follow e d h i m I j um p e d off t o load a s I

, ,

w a s o n a p a d and i t w a s rai n i ng W h il s t ramm i ng i n

.
-

my bull e t s I h e ard t h e o t h e r t w o cryi ng : C om e h e r e !

com e h e r e A s s oon a s I w a s load e d I r e moun t e d
 A M I SS F I RE - 1 91

and follow e d ; I found t h e bull had Charg e d and had ,

all b u t fl oor e d o n e of t h e e l e p han t s and n e i t h e r i t nor ,

i t s co mrad e would budg e an i nch e xc e p t t o r e t r e a t I .

w a s o n a v e ry s lo w fe mal e b u t s h e w a s v e ry s t e ady , ,

t oo a p a t h e t ic t o mov e i f s h e could h e l p i t I s oon g o t .

wi t h i n fift y yard s or S O and o p e n e d fi r e ; ball aft e r

,

ball w e n t i n t o t h e bull s rib s b u t h e t ook no no t i c e

’

, .

At la st h e e n t e r e d a v e ry h e avy p a t ch of gra ss an d ,

t h e r e wai t e d for m e .

As w e a pp roach e d wh e n n o t mor e t han t w e n t y

,

yard s se p ara t e d u s I could j u s t s e e h i s form ; I s t ood

,

u on t h e a d — a v e ry dang e rou s t h i ng t o do — and

p p
fi r e d dow n on t h e e n e m y ; h e cam e round l i k e a S ho t .

I had j u s t t i m e t o t h row my se lf dow n i n a S i t t i ng

o st u re o n t h e a d wh e n h e clo s e d I n vai n I t old
p p .

t h e mahou t t o dri v e h i s an i mal i n t o t h e o p e n : S h e

would n o t budg e an i nch b u t st ood t h e r e roari ng ,

e v e ry t i m e t h e bull drov e h i s horn s i n t o h e r He wa s .

fully s ix fe e t h igh o nl y a foo t l e ss t han m y e l e p han t

, ,

and a t o n e t im e h e cam e cl o se i n fron t and look e d

u
p i n my fac e
. I t ouch e d h i s fo r e h e ad wi t h t h e

muzzl e of m y t e n bo r e ri fl e an d p ull e d t h e t rigg e r ;

-

ala s ! i t m i sse d fi r e a t h ing i t had n e v e r don e s i nc e i t

,

cam e i n t o my p o sse ss io n T h e e l e p han t w a s b e i ng

.

cru e lly p u n i sh e d n e i t h e r o f m y fri e nd s could com e t o

m y a ss i s t anc e b e cau se t h e y could n o t i nduc e t h e i r
,

an i mal s t o mov e i n my di r e c t ion At la st aft e r fi v e .

,

m i n u t e s o f s e v e r e maul i ng w e g o t t h e e l e p han t i n t o
,

t h e o p e n badly wound e d w i t h s om e doz e n d e e p s t ab s

, ,

i n h e r quar t e r and abou t h e r should e r s I g o t on t o .

ano t h e r e l e p han t w e n t bac k drov e t h e bull o u t and

, ,

laid h i m low ; h e had som e t h ir t y fi v e bull e t s i n h im -

.
1 92 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF "
IN D I A

H is horn s w e r e n o t v e ry long b u t t w e n t y se v e n i nch e s

,
-

i n ci rcum fe r e nc e a t t h e ba s e ; and i n bul k I n e v e r sa w

h i s s u p e rior .

B u ffalo e s se ldom charg e i n a body t hough i n ,

di v i d u a l s do so fr e qu e n t ly wh e n wou nd e d I wa s .

looki ng abou t o n e d a y for a wou nd e d t igr e ss i n s om e

mar s hy grou nd n e ar t h e K u ll u n g R i v e r wh e n t w o bull s ,

j um p e d u p and charg e d s t raigh t a t m e — t h e y mu st hav e

b e e n t wi n s I n e v e r s a w t w o s o al i k e
,
I wai t e d t il l .

t h e y w e r e w i t h i n t e n yard s and gav e t h e m a righ t and

,

l e ft t h r e w dow n t ha t ri fl e and p ick e d u p ano t h e r (a

,

br e e ch load e r t h i s t im e ) and fi ri ng righ t down I

-
, ,

dro pp e d o n e d e ad b u t t h e o t h e r S t ruck m y e l e p han t

, ,

wh ich how e v e r did n o t run away t h e bul l back e d and

, , ,

w a s abou t t o ru s h forward agai n wh e n I s e i z e d ano t h e r ,

w e ap on and gav e h im t w o mor e p ill s T h i s se e m e d .

t o s i ck e n h im and h e r e t i r e d and lay dow n b e s id e h i s

,

d e ad com rad e I r e load e d all t h e gun s b e fore r e

.

su m in t h e offe n s i v e ; h e only s hook h i s h e ad a s t h e

g
s ho t s S t r u ck h im b u t did n o t mov e or a t t e m p t t o
,

g e t away . A t la st w i t h a convul s iv e s t ruggl e and

,

s t raigh t e n i ng of t h e l i mb s h e gav e u t h e gho s t

p ,

‘
R e ad e r s of t h e R e l iqu e s of E ngl i s h Po e t ry by ,
’

B i sho p P e rcy may r e m e mb e r how h e d e s crib e d t h e

,

b e haviour of t h e D rago n o f W a n t l e y j u s t p rior t o ,

bre a t h i ng h is la st T h e s ym p t om s of a larg e an imal

.

s t rick e n t o d e a t h a r e t h e r e mo s t accura t e ly d e s cr i b e d .

T h e v e r s e s how e v e r a r e t oo gra p h i c i n d e t ail t o b e

, ,

r e p e a t e d h e re and I mu st r e fe r t h e cu riou s r e ad e r t o
,

t h e p o e m i t se l f .
1 94 REM I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

n ot wi t h t h e i r horn s l i k e t h e i r A frican cong e n e rs b u t

, ,

’
wi t h a shar p t u s k n o t a s long a s a boar s b u t far mor e
, ,

ma ss iv e and e qually k e e n Wi t h o n e blow t h e y w i ll

.

c u t an e l e p han t s l e g t o t h e bon e a nd wh e n t h e y figh t

’

among st t h e m se l v e s t h e y s cor e o n e ano t h e r all ov e r .

E l e p han t s and bu ffalo e s a t c e r t ai n s e a s on s b e com e

v e ry d ang e rou s lyi ng i n wai t a n d charging wi t hou t
,

rovoca t io n man o r b e a s t b u t I n e v e r kn e w o r h e ar d
p , , ,

of a rh i noc e ro s i n I ndia doing so T h e y a r e found i n .

t h e r e mo t e s t j ungl e s far away fro m t h e haun t s of man

, ,

and con se qu e n t ly i n fl ic t l i t t l e or no i nj u ry b u t S houl d

anyon e a t t rac t e d by t h e rich n e ss of t h e s oil cul t iva t e
, ,

a p a t ch of ground w i t h i n r e a sonabl e di st anc e of t h e i r

hau n t s and t h e y fi nd i t o u t t h e y will s oo n i nvad e i t
, , .

T h e A frican aor e l i o ft e n Charg e s on g e t t ing t h e s c e n t

o f a human b e ing b u t t h e I ndian rh i noc e ro s t ak e s
,

no h e e d H e h e rd s i n com pany w i t h e l e p h an t s a n d
.

b u ffalo e s ; t h e r e i s no rival ry b e t w e e n t h e m ; t h e re i s
s uffic i e n t food and t o s ar e fo r t h e m all and t h e y graz e
p ,

n e ar e ach o t h e r w i t hou t quarr e lli ng I h av e s e e n

.

buffalo e s and rh i noc e ro se s wallow i ng i n t h e s am e p ool .

M oun t e d o n an e l e p han t i t i s n o t d i ffi cul t t o g e t n e ar

t he m ,
if your b e a s t will only a p p roach t h e m b u t , ,

s om e how t am e e l e han t s hav e t h e gr e a t e s t dr e a d of

, p
t h e rh i noc e ro s and if t h e y g e t i t s wi nd or h e ar t h e
,

p e cul iar cry i t mak e s t e n t o o n e t h e y mak e a bol t t o

,

t h e r e ar .

T h e gr e a t amb i t io n of m y you t h w a s t o s lay an

e l e han t Wh n I had accom l i h d t ha t I long ed
p .e
p s e ,

t o u nd e r t ak e a cam paign agai n s t t h e rh i noc e ro s .

Th e r e a r e p l e n t y i n B u rma b u t i t i s almo s t i m p o ss i bl e
,

t o g e t a t t h e m a s t h e y t ak e u t h e i r abod e i n s uch a
, p
 R H I NO CER O S S H OO T I NG POO R S PO RT
-
1 95

boggy cou n t ry t ha t e l e p han t s canno t t rav e l ov e r i t .

To follow t h e m on foo t i s e qually i m p o ss ibl e ; t o p o t

t h e m a t n igh t i s n o t sp or t I had h e l p e d t o kill t h e
.

t w o horn e d vari e t y i n t h i s way n e ar C a e N e grai s

p
-
,

i n B urma b u t n e v e r m e an t t o r e p e a t t h e e x p e r i
,

me nt .

R u nn i ng hom e o n s hor t l e av e aft e r e igh t e e n y e ars ,

’

u ni n t e rru p t e d r e s id e nc e i n I ndia I found among s t t h e

,

p a ss e ng e r s a v e ry n ic e fe llow who had b e e n an

,

a ss i st an t i n a t e a gard e n i n K o l ia b a r and t h i nking

-
,

t ha t s om e day I wo u ld t ak e l e av e and v i s i t A ss am o n

a s hoo t i ng t ri p I g o t h i m t o giv e m e all t h e i nforma

,

t ion h e could l i t t l e i magi ni ng t ha t abou t t ha t v e ry

,

t i m e I had b e e n t ran s fe rr e d t o t ha t p rov i nc e and t ha t ,

I s hould r e m ai n i n i t ov e r se v e n y e ar s .

I will h e r e r e la t e s om e i n s t anc e s of t h e kill ing o f

t h e s e b e a s t s b u t n o t i n con s e cu t iv e o rd e r nor i n gr e a t
,

d e t a i l i n t ru t h t h e r e i s n o t m uch sp or t i n t h e S layi n g
,

o f t h e se i noffe n s iv e p ach yd e rm s I kill e d for t y fou r .

-

t o my own gun and m u s t hav e h e l p e d t o kill o r b e e n

, ,

r e s e n t a t t h e d e a t h of full y s ix t y mor e I sh o t t h e m
p ,
.

i n variou s p ar t s o f t h e cou n t ry At o n e t i m e I had .

t h e d i s t ric t s o f N owgong T e z p o r e Goal p ara and t h e

, , ,

C o ssyah and J y n t ia h h ill s u nd e r m e and t h e se b e a s t s ,

w e r e fai rl y di st ribu t e d ov e r t h e m all A long t h e foo t .

o f t h e T e rai w a s t h e b e s t p lac e b u t non e of t h e o t h e r s

,

w e r e bad T h e l e sse r rh i noc e ro s wh ich i s p e rha p s a

.
,

foo t l e ss i n h e igh t t han t h e larg e r i s found m or e i n ,

"
th e ck n r s
i
of t h e B rah map oo t ra and t oward s t h e
Garrow H ill s . I t d iffe r s from t h e o t h e r i n t h e
arrang e m e n t o f t h e fol d s b u t t h e horn i s oft e n long e r
,

C/zu r s —i sl ds ian n a r ver i .

1 96 RE M IN I SC E N CES OF INDIA

han i n th e o t h e r vari e t y The habi t s of bo t h

“

t . a re

s im ilar .

L o qu a g h a t o pp o s i t e T e z p o r e w a s a favou ri t e
, ,

local i t y for t h e m and S i r C harl e s R e id of D e lh i , ,

fam e s ho t t w o t h e r e wi t h m e w i t h o n e ball e ach

, , ,

wi t h a s mall bor e ri fl e I kill e d many t h e r e aft e r

-

ward s . O nc e i n t h e D o o a r s wi t h B owi e of t h e ,

Pol ic e o n e v e ry cold m i st y day e i t h e r i n D e c e mb e r

, ,

o r J anuary wh e n t h e whol e vall e y w a s w ra pp e d u p i n

,

h e avy fog w e had b e e n hu n t i ng t h e se p achyd e rm s I

, .

had kill e d t w o t o t h e gr e a t di sgu s t of my com rad e

, ,

who w a s a j e alou s s p or t s man an d ra t h e r a d i sagr e e abl e ,

fe llow t o b e o u t wi t h T h e r e w a s a low d e p r e ss ion . .

B owi e w a s o n h i s e l e p han t s t andi ng o n a na t ural ,

‘
én n a fi and I had b e a t e n t hrough t h e long gra ss wi t h
’

o u t s e e i ng any t h i ng t hough I kn e w t h e r e ough t t o b e ,

a rh inoc e ro s t h e r e W e had b e e n e nv e lo p e d i n t h i s.

m i st b u t i t w a s cl e aring away W i t hou t t h e sl igh t e s t

,
.

warn ing I h e ard a mov e m e n t i n t h e gra ss and clo s e ,

t o m e a p p e ar e d t h e fo rm of a rh i noc e ro s ; h e w a s i n

h e avy gra ss and did n o t p r e s e n t a vul n e rabl e sp o t fo r

,

a c e r t ai n s ho t b u t B owi e and I fir e d al mo st t og e t h e r
, .

T h e r e w a s a s qu e al and a h e adlong charg e a t m e my

e l e han t L u tc h m e e g e n e rally fai rly s t an ch t ook t
p , o ,

h e r he e ls I mad e t h e rh i noc e ro s s hak e h i s h e ad a t

.

t h e v i s i t a t ion s h e r e c e iv e d fro m m y h e avy w e a p on s

‘

and h e t h e n w e n t for B who se e l e p ha nt di d n o t wai t .

,

for t h e o n slaugh t b u t bol t e d t h rough a t angl e d brak e

, ,

u p s e t t i ng B S gun s and all b u t cau s i ng t h e howdah t o

.
’

b e dragg e d off by t h e p e nd e n t v i n e s S h e d id n o t .

st o u n t il sh e t t t h b d of a con id rabl t r am
p g o o e e s e e s e ,

d — o e sp o di g t o ou w o d d a m
’
B an c rr n n r r .
 VALUE OF HORNS 1 97

wh e nc e sh e w a s t ak e n w i t h gr e a t d ifficul t y back t o
, ,

cam p I g o t L u t c h m e e t urn e d round and w e n t back ;

.
,

b u t t h e rh i noc e ro s t hough bl e e ding had gon e fully

, ,

t w o m il e s b e fo r e I cam e u p o n h i m H e r e h e e s say e d .

t o figh t agai n t hough h e woul d hav e had no chanc e if

,

my e l e p han t had r e mai n e d s t e ady ; b u t sh e w a s v e ry

frac t iou s t ha t day an d i t w a s o nl y by t aki ng s na p
,

s ho t s t ha t I mor t ally wou nd e d t h e foe a t la st H e .

t urn e d and ran i n t o h e avy gra s s and h i s s t e r t orou s ,

and p e cul iar bre a t h i ng (wh i ch wh e n t h e an imal i s i n ,

a r t i c u /o m or i i s onc e h e ard can n e v e r b e m i s t ak e n or

, ,

forgo t t e n ) s oo n p roclai m e d t ha t all w a s ov e r I t ook .

off t h e horn wh ich w a s a good o n e abou t t e n i nch e s

, ,

long and a s a so p t o my com p an ion I allow e d h i m t o

, , ,

hav e i t for I r e ally did n o t car e for t h e m a s t ro p h i e s

,

a t all and had al r e ady se v e ral far fi n e r I t w a s n ot

’

.
,

t ill long aft e rward s t ha t I t ook t o s e ll i ng t h e s mall

horn s and t h e r e by r e cou p ing my se l f all e x p e n se s

, ,

wh ich w e r e ra t h e r h e avy M any o f t h e se t ri p s w i t h .

,

t h r e e o r fou r gu e s t s co s t m e a s much a s £ 1 0 0 and I

, ,

w a s t h e n n o t a s ri ch a s I had b e e n b e for e o r e v e n ,

t h e n I s ho uld n o t hav e r e s o r t e d t o s e ll ing ; b u t t h e

A ssam e se p u t a fic t i t iou s valu e o n t h e se t ro p h i e s ,

wh ich a r e t o u s o f no val u e T h e y w ill giv e a s much .

a s 4 5 ru e e s a se e r for a fai r horn and many w e igh

"
p ,

clo se o n t h r e e se e r s .

O n ano t h e r occa s io n B arry a t e a p lan t e r and I w e r e ,

-
,

i n t h e D o o a r s I wound e d a v e ry larg e mal e b u t i n

. ,

followi ng h i m u p I fou nd t ha t t h e righ t barr e l of my

N o 1 0 br e e ch loadi ng ri fl e for wh ich I had p aid £ 6 4
.
-
, ,

k e p t m i ss ing fi r e ; I p u t i n se v e ral sh o t s wi t h t h e l e ft ,

A se e r is e qu i v a l e n t to 2 lb s .
1 98 RE M I N I SC E N C E S OF ,
I NDIA

bu t bru t e would n o t dro p I w a s g e t t ing v e ry

th e .

angry ; I had ov e r and ov e r agai n kill e d t h e m w i t h

o n e s ho t e ach b u t t h i s o n e d e cl i n e d t o di e
,
At la s t .

h e w e n t a s hor t way i n t o a v e ry h e avy p a t ch of gra ss ,

and wh e n I g o t n e ar o u t h e cam e fo r m e h i s mou t h

, ,

w id e o p e n t h e u p p e r lip c url e d bac k and u t t e ri ng t h e

, ,

c ry e l e p han t s s o much dr e ad I t ri e d t h e righ t barr e l .

o nc e mor e ; i t m i s se d agai n ; t h e l e ft fail e d t o s t o p

h im M y e l e p han t wh e e l e d roun d and w e n t off a t h e r
.
,

b e st p ac e ; b u t fa st a s sh e ran h e r p ur s ue r w a s gai n ,

i ng . I dro pp e d t h e br e e ch load e r and s e iz e d my -

,

t ru s t y t w o groov e m uzzl e l oad e r ; l e an i ng ov e r t h e

- -

back se a t I t ook a s na p s ho t downward s To S h oo t

,
-
.

o t h e r w i se w a s i m p o ss i bl e a t t h e raci ng sp e e d w e
w e r e goi ng a t and only a man long accu st om e d t o
,

’
an e l e p han t s back coul d hav e fi r e d a t all ; b u t I had
al mo st l i v e d o n e l e phan t s had acqu i r e d t h e n e c e s,

s ary s wayi ng of t h e body t o balanc e my se lf and ,

could g e n e rally h i t a mod e ra t e s iz e d mark a t s hor t -

di s t anc e s wi t hou t r e qu i ring m y b e a s t t o hal t As t h e .

mou t h o f t h e rh i noc e ro s w a s n o t a foo t fro m m y

b e a s t s quar t e r I w a s afraid sh e would b e c u t and
’

rui n e d fo r l ife ; b u t my ai m w a s t ru e I caugh t m y .

p ur s u e r j u s t a t t h e j u nc t ion of t h e h e ad and n e ck and ,

ov e r h e w e n t s qu e al ing fe arfully ; h e t o sse d h i s

,

m i g h t y h e ad abou t b u t o t h e rw i s e h e w a s p aral yz e d
, .

AS s oon a s w e had p ac ifi e d L u t c h m e e w e g o t h e r ,

back and a s ho t b e h i nd t h e e a r did for my fo e O n

, .

e xami n ing m y ri fl e I fou nd t h e n i pp l e had g o t

,

p ar t ially u n s cr e w e d s o t h e s t rik e r coul d n o t gi v e t h e

,

n e c e ssary blow t o t h e c a p of t h e car t ri d g e t o e x p lod e

i t ; i t w a s p u t t o righ t s i n a mom e n t b u t e v e r aft e r ,
 [ 200
]

C H A PT E R X .

S P OR T I N T H E N OR T H E R N D I S TR I CT S , M AD RAS
P R E S I D E N CY .

Di sc ov e y of t h e B i o H i l l —T h e i sl a d o f t h e G o da e y
r s n n s v r

Ab u d c e o f fe a t h e e d g m e —L i g R e d d i e t h e f e e b oot e
r a n a r r

A st i ff c l i m b —L o e ly s e e y—Ab da c o f ga m e —
n an ,

v c De y
n r un n e r ar

l i f a t a i gl e st a t i o —
e s n T t p oo d i —Co i p o o a m —A c e d t h e
n a a ss r s n

gh t —C h a ge o f fl o a d c l i m a t e —G a l i c o d h —H e a y a i
au s n ra n n a v r n

G o ft e ga u —G o t o a di st a t j u gl e —
a r r Di sg c e fu l sh oot i g n n ra n

I di a a d B u m e e ga u c om pa e d—K i ll a t i ge
n n n r s r r r .

VE RY many y e ar s ago C olon e l C o t t on R E and

, , ,

o t h e r s u nd e r h i m a sc e nd e d a s t e e p h ill ov e rlooki ng
, ,

a gorg e o f t h e G o d a v e r y abou t for t y m il e s abov e ,

R aj ahmundry Th e y found t ha t t h e p la t e au w a s a
.

favou ri t e r e s or t of num e rou s h e rd s of gaur com monly ,

call e d by I ndian sp or t s m e n t h e bi s on I t e v e r aft e r .

ward s w e n t by t h e nam e o f t h e B i s on H ill I n t h e .

e arly fi ft i e s wh e n I w a s b u t a you ng s t e r
, J oe C o t t on , ,

of t h e C iv il S e rvic e a t t ha t t i m e J udg e of R aj ah
,

m u n d r y D a n se y o f ou r 3 o t h and I h i r e d a addl e
, , p , ,

boa t fro m t h e A n icu t work s D o w l a i sh w a r u m and , ,

d e t e rm i n e d t o t r y ou r luck T h e se boa t s w e r e v e ry .

s mall ; w e w e r e ack d l i k ardin s and ou r ra t e o f

p e e s e ,

p rogr e s s w a s b u t S low L e avi ng R aj ah mundry abou t

.

’
t hr e e o clock i n t h e aft e rnoon by daybr e ak w e found ,
 J U NG LE F OW L 201

our s e l v e s abou t t w e n t y m il e s u p t h e riv e r am id s t a l o t

of Zn n éa s or M a r s (i sland s ) and hal t ing a t a villag e t o
,

p u rcha se m ilk e gg s
,
a n d o t h e r com e s t ibl e s
,
a na t iv e ,

offe r e d t o S how u s se v e ral b e ars A l t hough ou r t i m e

.

w a s l i m i t e d a s w e had t o b e back o n t h e four t h day

, ,

w e coul d n o t r e s i s t t h e t e m p t at ion so e nl i s t ing qui t e

, ,

a s mal l army o f b e a t e r s w e p roc e e d e d t o b e a t s e v e ral

,

of t h e s mall e r i sland s W e w e r e w e ll p o st e d and i t

.
,

w a s agr e e d t ha t w e w e r e t o fi r e a t no t h i ng s av e b e ar s .

D ir e c t ly t h e b e a t e r s comm e nc e d t h e i r i nfe rnal di n ,

myriad s o f j ungl e fowl (G a /i n s f e r r ug i n e u s) and p e a

fowl fl e w ov e r ou r h e ad s i n a con t i nuou s s t r e am I .

hav e n e v e r s e e n so m any gam e bi rd s i n m y l i fe i n t h e

ai r a t onc e a s o n t ha t occa s ion I am s ur e t ha t no .

r e s e rv e i n E ngland could hav e s hown a gr e a t e r h e ad

p
o f wi ng e d gam e T h e s igh t t o a young s por t s man
.

l i k e my se l f w a s mo s t t an t al iz i ng ; i t w a s wi t h di ffi cul t y
I r e frai n e d fro m l e t t i ng fl y a t t h e rock e t e r s ov e rh e ad ,

all w e ll w i t h i n s ho t V ariou s sp o t t e d d e e r t o o brok e

.
, ,

cl o se by b u t n o t a b e ar S how e d i t s e l f
,
.

W e b e a t fi v e or s i x i n n é a s e ach o n e s warm ing w i t h

,

gam e and I am s u r e I am w i t h i n t h e mark wh e n I

,

sa
y t ha t w e sa w fully a t hou s and j ungl e fowl and
se v e ral hu ndr e d e a fowl — m any of t h e cock s wi t h t ail s
p
-

clo s e on s i x fe e t long— and p e rha p s a s cor e of sp o t t e d

d e e r— many of t h e m nobl e buck s y e t non e of u s fi r e d
a S ho t W e n e i t h e r sa w an y b e ar s nor any s ign s of
.

t h e m ; I am u nd e r t h e i m p r e ss ion non e e xi s t e d on

t h e M a r s and t ha t t h e na t i v e s o nl y h e ld t h e m o u t
,

a s an induc e m e n t t h i nki ng t ha t doub t l e s s wh e n w e

, ,

d i d n o t fi nd b e ar s w e s hould fi r e a t any t h i ng and

, ,

r e ward t h e m by givi ng t h e m s om e of t h e gam e i n

202 RE M IN I SCE N CES OF INDIA

addi t io n t o t h e i r p a y A bou t t w e lv e w e br e akfa st e d

.
,

and t h e n d e cid e d t o fi r e a t any t h ing bi rd o r b e a st ,

t ha t s how e d i t s e l f B u t i ncr e d ibl e a s i t m ay a p p e ar

.
, ,

w e b e a t s e v e ral i s land s wi t hou t p u t t i ng u p a fe a t h e r ,

’
no r d id w e g e t a s ho t un t il clo s e u p on four o cloc k ,

wh e n C o t t on brok e t h e l e g of a s p o t t e d d o e wh ich ,

t ook t o t h e wa t e r and w a s cap t ur e d This wa s th e .

only r e s ul t ; w e had wa st e d val uabl e t im e so , ,

t h orough ly d i s gu s t e d w e r e s u m e d our j ourn e y and

, ,

r e ach e d L i nga R e dd i e s v illag e s i t ua t e d a t t h e foo t of

’

t h e B i s on H ill j u s t b e for e dayb r e ak

, .

L i nga R e d d i e i n t ho s e day s w a s a s or t of R ob R oy ,

o r fr e e boo t e r n om i nally s ubj e c t t o u s b u t i n r e al i t y

, ,

i nd e p e nd e n t H e brok e o u t i n t o o p e n ho s t il i t y duri ng
.

t h e t roubl e s o f 1 8 5 7 5 8 w a s caugh t and

-
, I be l ie ve , , ,

hang e d an d s i nc e t h e n t h e r e hav e b e e n many t roubl e s

,

i n t h e R am p a cou n t ry ; b u t a t t h e t im e of ou r V i si t
L i nga w a s v e ry c ivil C o t t o n w a s a én r r a
. n ot

t o b e s n e e z e d a t so t h e ch i e f gav e u s g u id e s t o t ak e
,

us to th e h un t ing ground s and p rocur e d for u s

-
,

am p l e su pp l i e s W e s t ar t e d s oo n aft e r s un ri se an d
.
,

aft e r a t e rri bl e Cl im b of four hou r s r e ach e d t h e ,

p la t e au . T h e h ill i s abou t t w o t hou s and t h r e e

hu ndr e d fe e t abov e t h e s e a l e v e l T h e r e a r e variou s -

.

h ill s all v e ry s i m ilar b e i ng n e arly fla t o n t h e t o p

, ,
.

T h e forma t ion i s la t e ri t e and any t h i ng movi n g ov e r i t

,

cau s e s a r e v e rb e ra t ion wh ich can b e h e ard a long way

,

off G e n e rally t h e h ill s id e s a r e p e rp e ndicular s t e e p

.
,

a s a wall fo r t h i r t y for t y or fi ft y fe e t wi t h a s lo e o r
, , p ,

S hould e r a t long i n t e rval s l e adi ng t o a vall e y b e low, ,

wh il e ano t h e r s i m ilar p a t h con n e c t s i t w i t h ano t h e r

h ill p r e se n t i ng m uch t h e s am e ap p e aranc e The .
2 04 REM IN I SCE N CES OF I NDIA

th e N or t h e rn S i rcar s T o m P r e nd e rga st w a s i n t ho se
.

day s coll e c t or of t h e d i s t ric t o n e of t h e fin e st fe llow s ,

who e v e r l iv e d who h a s b u t la t e ly j o in e d t h e maj ori t y

,
.

H e had b e e n v e ry kind t o m e and a s I w a s fond of , ,

S or t t old m e to a ly t o h i m wh e n e ve r I wan t ed
p , pp
fi n r wa n n a / zs
"
t o h e l p m e al ong S o I wro t e t o h im .
,

t e lli ng h i m of m y wi s h e s and i n t e n t ion s and an t ici p a t e d ,

a budg e t of s t am p e d ord e r s o n variou s offi cial s t o giv e

m e he lp M y d i sapp oi n t m e n t m ay b e i magi n e d wh e n
.

I g o t back a l e t t e r n o t only r e fu s ing t o h e l p m e t o

,

vi s i t t ho se local i t i e s b u t s aying t ha t h e W ould t hrow

,

e v e ry h i ndran c e i n my way H e s t a t e d t ha t h e a c .

com p an i e d a fi e ld forc e t h e r e s om e y e ar s ago ; t ha t

v e ry many of t h e p ar t y d i e d e v e ryo n e s uffe r e d from ,

j ungl e fe v e r s om e w e r e i nval id e d and o t h e rs l i k e

, , ,

‘
h im se l f on ly r e cov e r e d aft e r y e ar s of s uffe ri ng
,
If .

‘
you wan t t o com m i t s u icid e h e add e d o r di e you ,
’

, ,

had b e t t e r go t o B urma b u t you s han t go t o D ara ,

’

conda i f I can p r e v e n t you .

’

I l i t t l e an t ici p a t e d t h e n t ha t wi t h i n a fe w mon t h s I
s hould b e s e n t t o B urma and l iv e t h e r e for t h ir t e e n
,

y e ar s and t ha t e v e n t ually wh e n p a s t m iddl e a g e I

, , ,

S hould wand e r ov e r t h e v e ry d i s t ric t t o wh ich Tom

Pr e nd e rga st would n o t allow m e t o go wh e n I w a s l i t t l e

mor e t han a boy .

D uri ng t h i r t e e n y e ars r e s id e nc e i n B urma and se v e n’

i n A s sam wi t h an occa s ional v i s i t t o t h e N e i lg h e r r i e s

, ,

W y n a a d and A na M u l l i e s I had e xc e p t ional o p p o r ,

t u n i t i e s o f i ndulgi ng i n t h e v e ry b e st of s p or t I had .

acqu i r e d e x p e ri e nc e and p o ss e ss e d a ca p i t al bat t e ry

,
.

P w
zz r fi —O ffi i l o d e
a n na s f o m e i t h e a c ol l e c t o o o t h e
c a r rs r r r r r

offi i l o t h e
c a n t i v e o ffi c i a l o f h i d i t i c t
na s s s r .
 V I Z I AN A G RAM 20
5

L e adi ng an ac t i v e l i fe all t h e se y e ars I had s uffe r e d ,

l i t t l e i n h e al t h and t hough no long e r young I w a s

, , ,

j u s t a s fond of sp or t a s I had b e e n fi v e and t w e n t y - -

y e ar s b e for e .

I n 1 8 76 I w a s s t a t ion e d a t t ha t dr e ary p lac e V iz i ,

anagram I t i s o nly abou t e igh t m il e s fro m t h e s e a

.
,

b u t a s i t i s s i t ua t e d i n a hollow s urro u n d e d by bar e ,

rocky h ill s i t i s a t all t i m e s v e ry h o t and s ul t ry Th e r e

, .

w a s v e ry l i t t l e t o amu se o n e i n t h e s t a t ion t hank s t o ,

t h e i n t roduc t ion of t h e i rr e gular s y s t e m i n t o t h e M adra s

A rmy ; for t h e offi c e r s of t h e r e gi m e n t had b e e n r e duc e d

fro m t h i r t y t o S i x n o t o n e of whom e v e n p o sse sse d a
,

fowl i ng p i e c e W e had no s wi mm ing ba t h no bill iard

-
.
-
,

t abl e . T h e R aj ah w a s a s p l e ndid s p e ci m e n of a man ,

and e xc e ll e d i n mo s t t h ing s ; b u t a t t ha t t i m e h e w a s
ail ing and di e d s om e t i m e aft e rward s L i fe t h e r e t o
, .
,

o n e l i k e my s e l f w a s d r e ary t o a d e gr e e
,
s o I t ook t h e ,

fir st o pp or t un i t y of ob t ain ing l e av e and t hough t h e , ,

s e a s o n w a s m o s t i ncl e m e n t o n J uly 8 I w a s off o n a

,

t e n day s t ri p i n t o t h e adj ac e n t h ill s I had m y cam p

’
.

p i t ch e d a t T a t a
p o o d i fi ft e e n m il es di s t an t
,
Th e re .

u se d t o b e gau r a t t h e foo t o f t h e s e h ill s s om e t w e n t y

y e ar s ago b u t t h e y had l ong b e e n dri v e n away
,
.

S wam p d e e r (R u c e r v u s a n v a n ee Z/i ) al s o had onc e ’

e x i st e d h e re b u t t h e la s t of i t s rac e had b e e n kill e d

,

so m e t e n y e ar s ago and now o nly sp o t t e d d e e r and

,

s mall gam e w e r e t o b e fou nd .

O n J uly 9 I s t ar t e d for t h e h ill s I s e n t t h e s e rvan t s

rou nd by t h e road b u t e x p e c t ing t o fi n d s p o t t e d d e e r
, , ,

t ook an u n fr e qu e n t e d p a ss t h rough t h e hill s I h e ard .

a fe w p e acock s and sa w o n e sand grou s e b u t no t h i ng -

,

e l se
, wh il st my se rvan t s cam e ac ro s s se v e ral h e rd s of
 206 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF . IND IA

s o t t e d d e e r r e t u rn ing fro m t h e i r n igh t ly raid s on t h e

p
na t i v e c u l t iva t ion I w a s t oo e arl y for t h e m
. I .

r e ach e d Co ssi p oo r a m a t a m b u t my baggag e . .

,

car t did n o t arri v e u n t il 9 a m I t t ook u s s om e t i m e .

t o g e t cool i e s for t h e car t could go no fur t h e r

, and ,

I fi nall y mad e a s t ar t a t noon T h e fir s t p or t ion .

o f t h e road i s p r e t t y good w indi ng abou t among st ,

cul t iva t ion T h e a s c e n t t h e n comm e nc e s S om e y e ars

. .

b e fo re t h e r e had e xi st e d a good w e ll mad e road u p t h i s ,

-

ghau t b u t i t had b e com e n e arly obl i t e ra t e d i n many

,

ar t s and i n s om e p lac e s i t w a s s o bad a s s carc e l y t o

p ,

b e p a ss abl e e v e n for my p ony Th i s ani mal wh ich had . ,

b e e n l e n t t o m e by H H t h e M aharaj ah w a s s uch a
. .
,

s cr e w t ha t I w a s glad t o e t off i t s back and t ru st t o

g
m y own l e g s I had b e e n and w a s s t ill s uffe ring
.
, ,

fro m se v e r e diarrhoe a an d I w a s n o t i n a condi t ion t o

,

u nd e rgo m uch fa t igu e ; b u t t h e h igh e r I a sc e nd e d t h e ,

l e a s an t e r b e cam e t h e cl ima t e
p .

T h e flora chang e d fro m t ha t of t h e p lai n s t o wha t

I had b e e n accu s t om e d t o i n t h e C o ssyah and J y n t e a h
H ill s wh ich hav e an e l e va t ion of b e t w e e n
,
and
fe e t wh e r e a s I w a s a t t h e mo st t h e n o nly
, , ,

abou t fe e t I no t ic e d t h e sam e t e rr e st rial

.

orch i d s flow e ri ng s h rub s and t r e e s w i t h wh ich I had

, ,

b e com e fam il iar i n t h e h illy coun t ry b e yond t h e

Gang e s At fir s t t h e y w e re s ca t t e r e d h e re and t h e re
.
,

b u t t h e h igh e r I a sc e nd e d t h e m or e p l e n t iful t h e y
b e cam e an d on looki n g back t h e p lai n s o f Vi z ia n
,

agram wi t h t ank s and M e e /s do t t e d abou t r e m i nd e d

, ,

m e s om e wha t of t h e p lai n s of S ylh e t a s v i e w e d from

C h e rra P oo n j e e M y d e st ina t ion w a s a d e se r t e d
.

coffe e p lan t a t ion call e d An n a t a g h e r r y b u t a s i t w a s

,
208 RE M I N I SCE N C E S OF I N DIA

t ia l l y cov e r e d wi t h coffe e bu s h e s p ai nfully s t ruggl ing

for e xi s t e nc e wi t h t h e fa s t growi ng se cond gro w t h o f
-

j ungl e wh i ch i s al w ay s far wor s e t han t h e fi r st

, ,

originally cl e ar e d a w ay wh e n t h e coffe e plan t a t ion s

had b e e n mad e Wal t e r F an e o f t h e C i vil S e rv ic e
.
, ,

and s om e o t h e r s had form e d abou t se v e n e x t e n s i v e

,

gard e n s wh e r e t h e coffe e did v e ry w e ll b u t labour w a s

, ,

di fficul t t o g e t C ool i e s i m p or t e d from t h e p lai n s d i e d

.

off and gradually t h e gard e n s w e r e abandon e d

,
I .

found t h e m fa s t r e lap s ing i n t o j ungl e and I e x p e c t ,

by t h i s t i m e t h e r e i s n o t a t rac e l e ft of t h e cul t iva t io n

o n wh ich s o m uch m on e y w a s sp e n t .

H e r e t h e cl i ma t e w a s r e ally lov e ly cool e r and ,

l e a s an t e r t han a t S h illong i n t h e C o s s yah H ill s a t

p , ,

t h e s am e s e a s on Th i s t i m e I t ook car e t o p u t u p t h e
.

‘
é a n a z s an d mad e my s e l f co mfor t abl e
,
M y s e rvan t s
.

w e r e w e ll s u pp l i e d w i t h é zn n /i e s o r na t iv e blank e t s
-
, ,

and w e r e i n a S h e d e x p r e ss ly buil t for t h e m V illag e rs .

had b e e n warn e d of our com i ng s o s u pp l i e s w e r e s oon

,

brough t i n and w e w e r e t old s om e sh ik a r i e s w e r e o u t

,

t racking S i x m il e s b e yond wh e r e w e w e r e e ncam p e d

.

i s G a l i c o n d a h (H ill of S t orm s ) fe e t h igh I t

, .

ari se s abr u p t l y i n a vall e y t hrough wh ich n igh t ly

,

wi nd r u s h e s down i n a p e rfe c t t ornado t o t ak e t h e ,

lac e of t h e e xhau s t e d ai r of t h e p lai n s and all who

p ,

sl e e wi t h i n i t s i n fl u e nc e a r e s ur e t o con t rac t a d e adly

p
j ungl e fe v e r M any y e ar s ago i t w a s t ri e d a s a sana
.

t o r i u m b u t i t fail e d for t h e r e a s o n s abov e s t a t e d

,
It .

w a s al s o e x t e n s iv e l y cul t iva t e d wi t h coffe e and t h e r e ,

w a s t h e n s t ill e x i s t ing a con s id e rabl e gard e n i n s om e

s or t o f worki ng ord e r ; b u t i t w a s l e ft e n t i r e l y i n t h e

hand s of na t iv e s wh o t ook b u t l i t t l e car e of i t and

, ,
 I N D I FF ERE N T CUL T IV A T ION 19 9

se ldo m p u t a h o e t o t h e ground s o v e ry many p lan t s ,

hav e di e d o u t an d m or e hav e run i n t o j ungl e

, .

An n a t a g h e r r y t h ough m uch l ow e r i s away from t h e

, ,

i nflu e nc e of t h i s p e st il e n t ial w i nd and I b e l i e v e i s , , ,

e rfe c t ly fr e e from fe v e r o t h e r t han t ha t wh i ch anyo n e

p
i s l iabl e t o g e t from a s u d d e n ch ill o r from n ot t aki ng,

o rdinary car e of hi m se l f .

S oo n aft e r p i t ch i ng cam p h e avy rai n s e t i n and ,

con t inu e d fo r se v e ral hou rs T h e t rack e r s r e t urn e d

.

abou t t w e l v e and r e p or t e d hav i ng mark e d down a

,

gau r s om e t w o m il e s off S o abou t t w o I s t ar t e d

.
,

fe e l ing v e ry w e ak an d o u t of s or t s W e had a good .

d e al o f going u p and d own h ill s t h e h igh e s t p oi n t ,

r e ach e d b e i ng fe e t . T h e coffe e w e p a ss e d
t h rough had n o t b e e n p ru n e d nor t h e grou nd ho e d, ,

or t h e j ungl e s cl e ar e d a w ay e xc e p t i ng a b i t h e r e an d
,

t h e r e j u s t t o s a t i s fy t h e M aharaj ah s ag e n t wh e n h e
’

V i s i t e d t h e sp o t wh ich h e did abou t onc e a y e ar

, .

T h e coffe e se e m e d t o hav e had onc e a vigo rou s

grow t h b u t t h e grou nd S how e d no s ign s of a rich s o il
, ,

a s i t w a s cov e r e d wi t h s t on e s and rock s and look e d ,

v e ry i nd i ffe r e n t . T h e h ill s id e s w e r e cov e r e d wi t h

t horny cr e e p e r s and bu sh e s and a s t h e ground w a s
,

cov e r e d wi t h loo se st on e s d iffe ring i n s iz e from an

,

ordi nary foo t ball t o a marbl e noi se l e s s s t al ki ng w a s all

,

b u t i m p o ss ibl e .

W e w e n t ful ly t w o m il e s ov e r h ill and dal e and a s ,

w e w e r e d e s c e nding i n t o a d e n se ly wood e d vall e y -

,

hal fway u p t h e s id e of t h e o p p o s i t e h ill u nd e r t h e ,

shad e of a fe w s craggy t r e e s a gaur a p p e ar e d ch e w

, ,

i ng t h e cud and lazil y fla p p ing o ff t h e fl i e s wi t h h is

t ail. W e w e r e fully s ix h undre d yard s off ; t h e wi nd
14
2 10 RE M I N I SCE N C ES OF INDIA

wa s blowi ng fro m h i m t o u s and a s h e d id n o t mov e , ,

w e ho p e d w e had b e e n u n se e n and u nh e ard so w e ,

w e n t righ t abou t i n t e nding t o mak e a long dé t our t o

-
,

e nabl e u s to
g e t wi t h i n s ho t u nd e r cov e r of s om e

bu s h e s . H ow e v e r w e h ad n o t gon e far wh e n t h e
,

gaur slowl y b e gan t o a s c e nd t h e h i l l I wan t e d t o .

r e t rac e ou r s t e p s and e nd e avou r t o g e t ah e ad of h i m

, ,

b u t no t h ing I could s a y woul d i nduc e t h e sh ik a r i e t o

carry o u t my V i e w s h e i n s i s t e d o n followi ng i n t h e
b e a s t s wak e
’

I kn e w i t w a s folly t o do so for w e
.
,

mu s t t h e n giv e h im o ur wi nd ; b u t a s t h i s w a s t h e
fi r s t t i m e I h a d b e e n o u t w i t h t h e se m e n I l e t t h e m ,

hav e t h e i r ow n way ; and t hough I kn e w i t w a s a ,

u se l e ss fag I follow e d t h e bru t e u p and down b i ll for

,

t w o hour s .I only g o t a s igh t of h i m for a se cond for ,

h e w a s on t h e g a i v i z/e w e n t o ff a t a t ro t and I n e v e r
, ,

sa w h i m agai n I w a s d e ad b e a t and glad t o g e t

.
,

back t o cam p A good h o t ba t h s oon r e s t or e d m e

. .

N o t wi t h st anding my blan k e t I w a s v e ry cold all ,

n igh t N e x t day I w a s u p and dr e sse d by

.

b u t t h e s h i k a r i e s or guid e s d id n o t com e t ill

, ,

W e w e n t ov e r much t h e s am e ground a s y e st e rday ,

b u t d id n o t s e e a l i ving t hi ng I r e t urn e d t o cam p .

,

and s e n t m e n o u t t o t rack ; t h e s e r e t urn e d abou t

p m . wi t h fr e s h dro
pp i n g s of s ambur and gau r ,

and r e p o r t e d hav ing mark e d down a h e rd i n t o s om e

j u ngl e n e ar a V illag e call e d S oba .

A n hou r la t e r j u s t a s I had ba t h e d and mad e my se l f

,

comfor t abl e a v illag e r ru sh e d i n s ay i ng t ha t a gaur

, ,

w a s fe e ding i n a Cl e aranc e among s t t h e coffe e n o t hal f ,

a m il e off S o I don n e d m y s hoo t ing garm e n t s and

.
,

w e n t for hi m T h e r e h e w a s s u re e nough fe e di ng
.
, ,
2 12 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF IN D I A

t h e y r e cov e r e d s uffic i e n t ly t o run dow n t h e b i ll I .

t ook t h e e x p r e ss and agai n h i t o n e b u t wh e t h e r i t

, ,

w a s t h e s ound o n e o r o n e o f t ho se alr e ady wound e d

I don t know T h e t h re e brok e back t w o of t h e m

’
.
,

a ppar e n t ly v e ry groggy As t h e b e a t con t i nu e d a

.
,

gau r ran along t h e foo t of t h e h ill I t ri e d t o c u t h i m .

off b u t fail e d and h e g o t away W i t hou t a S ho t

, , .

As t h e cool i e s obj e c t e d t o e n t e r t h e p a t ch of j ungl e

i n wh ich t h e wou nd e d gau r had tak e n r e fug e I w e n t ,

dow n and t ook u p t h e t rack s along wh ich t h e bloo d ,

lay i n p ool s I e v e n p ick e d u p a b i t of l i v e r a s I

.
,

b e l i e v e b u t t h e bi s on charg e d bac k t h rough t h e l in e

o f b e a t e r s and g o t i n t o v e ry h e avy j ungl e W e h a d
, .

t o advanc e t h rough t h i s v e ry cau t iou s ly for a wou nd e d ,

gaur i s a form idabl e bru t e and can charg e v ic iou sly ,

b u t t h e s e b e i ng t oo ba d ly h i t t o b e d ang e rou s allowe d

, ,

u s t o p a ss and t h e n brok e away

, I w a s t o o w e ak t o
.
'

follo w t h e m u p s o se n t t h e sh i k a r i e s t o mark t h e m
,
.

down T h e b e a t e rs r e fu se d t o e n t e r t h e j ungl e a s
.
,

t h e y w e r e afraid of t h e wou nd e d b e a s t s and t o mak e ,

a long s t ory shor t I lo st t h e gam e for t h e day t h ough

, ,

t w o w e r e bro u gh t t o bag aft e rward s b e ing fou nd d e a d ,

by t h e v illag e r s H o w I fail e d t o kill all t h r e e a n d

.
,
'

’
wi t h o n e ball e ach I don t know fo r I had s p l e ndid
, ,
!

s ho t s wi t h i n t w e n t y yard s I w a s p e rfe c t l y cool b u t “

.
,

I fancy my s haky s t a t e of h e al t h mad e my s hoo t i ng

v e ry i naccura t e I t com m e nc e d t o rai n h e av ily a n d
.
,
I

I w a s glad t o crawl hom e much d i sgu st e d w i t h my se l f

, .

A l t hough t h e r e a r e no p ai n t e d p ar t r i dg e s i n t h e
p lain s abou t V iz ianagram i n t h e se b i l l
, s t h e y w e r e

v e ry p l e n t i ful and t h e coun t ry r e m i nd e d m e v e ry

,
:

much o f t ha t abou t N o n g p o h on t h e way t o S hillong ,

 DR IVI NG B U FF AL O ES 2 13

I st ar t e d n e x t day i n t h e p ouri ng rai n for S oba t o ,

h un t u p t h e wound e d bi s on W e found t h e t rail .

e a s ily e nough and a t o n e t i m e

, I could h e ar a b e a st
movi ng abou t w i t h diffi c u l t y w i t hi n fift y yard s o f m e ,

b u t could n o t g e t a s igh t owi ng t o t h e d e n s i t y of t h e

,

j u ngl e . P r e se n t ly i t lay down and I w a s goi ng t o ,

c rawl i n aft e r i t wh e n o n e of t h e b e a t e r s ran back and

,

t old m e t h e r e w a s a larg e h e rd of gau r clo s e by a n d ,

i f I s t a t io n e d m y s e l f h igh e r u p t h e r i v e r t h e y woul d ,

b e a t t h e gam e t oward s m e S o t h i nking t h e wou nd e d .

,

o n e would r e mai n wh e r e i t w a s off I w e n t I n the

,
.

fi r s t b e a t t h e cool i e s fail e d t o mov e t h e h e rd I the n .

’
s h i ft e d my quar t e r s b u t t ha t didn t an s w e r and for
, ,

t w o hour s I w a s run n i ng backward s and forward s

e nd e avou ri ng to guard t h r e e p a sse s u n t il I w a s ,

n e arly d e ad At la s t lo s ing p a t i e nc e I w e n t s t raigh t

.
, ,

i n t o t h e j ungl e wh e r e t h e y w e r e and j u s t a s I g o t t o ,

a n o p e n sp o t a good s iz e d you ng gaur ran o u t a n d

-

sto
pp e d fo r a mom e n t I fi r e d a s h e l l i n t o i t s sh ould e r
.
,

low down O n r e c e iv i ng i t sh e ran back b u t a h e r d

.

o f e igh t brok e Th e y w
. r
e e so m ix e d u
p
— cow s ,

calv e s and o n e bull — t ha t i t w a s i m p o ss ibl e t o p ic k

,

ou t on e wor t h s hoo t ing a t u n t il t h e y w e r e s o m e

way off I t h e n p ick e d o u t t h e bull and firi ng w e ll
.
,

fo rward m y ball st ruc k t h e ground clo se i n fron t of

,

h i m and a s h e s w e rv e d h e all b u t fe ll T h e h e rd
, .

g o t i n t o t h e for e s t and I sa w t h e m n o mor e

,
T h e .

wou nd e d o n e brough t u p t h e r e ar a t a con s id e rabl e

d i s t anc e and aft e r s t agg e ri ng abou t a b i t fe ll dow n
, , ,

and e x p i re d .

A ft e r t ryi ng t w o mor e fru i t l e ss b e a t s I w e n t aft e r ,

t h e wo und e d o n e o f t h e p r e viou s day ; b u t t h e ru s h of

2 14 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF INDIA

th e h e rd and my sh o t s had di s t u rb e d i t and i t s t rack s ,

w e r e ov e rru n by t h o se of t h e o t h e r s s o I l o st bo t h ,

t h e m a n d h i m fo r t h e t im e b e i ng I t h e n w e n t back .

t o e xam i n e t h e d e ad gaur ; i t p rov e d t o b e a c o w

abou t fou r y e ars old and c e r t ai nl y t h e s mall e s t I had,

e v e r kill e d T ho s e i n B urma w e re p e rfe c t mon st e rs

.

i n com pari s on and I no t ic e d mark e d diffe r e nc e s b e

,

t w e e n t h e m ; t h e no s e o f t h i s o n e w a s n o t n e arl y s o

arch e d t h e h e ad far s ho r t e r t h e d o rs al ri d g e n o t s o
, ,

rom i n n t and n o t e x t e nd i ng s o far back — i n fac t i t

p e , ,

e nd e d n e arly i n t h e m iddl e o f t h e back wh e r e a s i n ,

t ho s e i n t h e p ri m e val for e s t s of B urma t h e ridg e

r e ach e s t o w i t h i n a sp an of t h e h ip j oi n t I t w a s -
.

al t og e t h e r a p r e t t i e r b u t far s mall e r an i mal, , .

S om e y e ar s ago I wro t e o n t h e s ubj e c t of t h e r e

b e i ng t w o vari e t i e s of gau r di s t ribu t e d ov e r t h e
" ’

for e s t s of I ndia A ssam B urma and M alaya a n d , , , ,

M r C ar t e r ( S moo t h bor e ) say s t ha t al t h ough I

.
‘ -
’

w a s t h e fir s t p e r s on who m e n t ion e d t h e e xi s t e nc e o f

t w o vari e t i e s t o h im h e w a s s c e p t ical u n t il v i s i t i ng
, ,

t h e C alcu t t a M u s e um h e a s k e d D r A nd e r s on t h e
,
.
,

‘ ’
cu ra t or wha t h e t ho u gh t abou t i t
,
W hy o f cour s e .
, ,

s aid t ha t g e n t l e man
‘
Pollok i s qui t e righ t C om e
,
.

wi t h m e and I will s how you S kull s of t h e t w o a n d

, ,
’

h e did t o S moo t h bor e s s a t i s fac t ion

‘ ’ ’
-
.
,

At o n e t im e gau r mu st hav e b e e n com mo n all ov e r

I ndia and C e ylon ; a t p re se n t t h e y a r e e x t i nc t i n t h e
la t t e r coun t ry b u t a r e foun d h e r e and t h e r e all ov e r
,

I ndia p ro p e r and t h e t ran s Gang e t ic p rov in c e s dow n -

,

La te l y a p l t e i n T a n c o e w ot e t h t t h e e w e t wo di st i c t
an r r va r r a r er n

i i o f ga u o e c ll e d k t a n d t h e ot h e E t i g;
’
var et es r, nm oa a n aa o, r a er nz

on e wi t h a w ll d e e l op e d de wl p a n d t h e o t h e h a i g l i t t l e o
e -
v a ,
o e r v n r n n .
2 1 6 R EM I N I S CE N CES OF I ND IA

e x t ra ri fl e I did n o t an t ic i p a t e g e t t i ng any t h i ng b u t
.
,

abou t t w o m il e s i nland o n t h e l e ft of t h e d e sc e n t down ,

t h e ghau t s I had no t i c e d a n ic e ri vul e t wh ich ran

, ,

down a s t e e p i ncl i n e on t h e bord e r s of wh ich I no t ic e d

,

nu m e rou s foo t mark s o f sambu r and I d e t e rm in e d t o

-
,

go t h e r e o n t h e chanc e of g e t t i ng a s ho t J u st a s .

daybr e ak mad e obj e c t s a l i t t l e vi s ibl e I r e ach e d t h e ,

s t r e am and s oon h e ard a s ambu r b e ll i ng

, Th e wind .

w a s favourabl e an d t h e bru s hwood j u st s uffi ci e n t ly h igh

,

t o mak e s t alki ng p o ss ibl e w i t hou t b e i ng so t h ick a s t o

ob s t ruc t my p a ss ag e I look e d t o se e wh e t h e r t h e
.

s h ik a r i e w a s i n s igh t n o t t ha t i t ma t t e r e d m uch for I ,

had p l e n t y of car t ridg e s wi t h m e and t h e only gam e ,

I e x p e c t e d t o se e w a s e i t h e r a sambu r a ch i t al or a , ,

fou r horn e d an t e lo p e
-
.

I j udg e d fro m t h e p e cul iar b e ll of t h e sambu r t ha t i t

w a s a cry o f fe ar and t h ough t h e m igh t hav e Se e n a
,

l e o p ard or a wild dog t rac e s o f wh ich I had se e n i n

-
,

t h i s n e ighbourhood s om e t i m e back T h e ri v e r w a s .

n ot d e e
p b u t v e ry s wi ft and runn i ng down an i ncl i n e
, ,

i t cau s e d a co n s id e rabl e no i s e fo r i t da s h e d ov e r s t on e s , ,

rock s fall e n d eb r i s and t h e l ik e so my a p p roach w a s

, ,

n o t no t ic e d a s I dr e w n e ar e r and n e ar e r ; t h e l igh t
b e cam e b e t t e r and a t la st I g o t a gl i m p s e of a fi n e
,

p ai r of an t l e rs wh ich ,
w e re t h rown back and t h e ,

b e llowing w a s i nc e ssan t A l t h ough t h e h e ad and .

n e ck w e r e v i s ibl e t h e body w a s ob s cur e d by s om e

,

l ong gra ss and I w a s j u st goi ng t o fi r e a t t h e n e ck

,

n e ar t h e h e ad wh e n n o t t e n p ac e s from m e I h e ard
, , ,

a s l igh t no i s e l i k e t ha t mad e by t h e t wi t ch i ng o f a

fe l in e t ail I i m m e dia t e ly look e d i n t ha t dir e c t ion

.
,

a nd ar t ially h idd n b t t ill v i s i bl e I could mak e ou t

p e u s , ,
 A T I G ER B A GG E D 2 1 7

th e form of a crouch ing t ig e r T h e b e a s t had se e n .

me a n d wh e n our e y e s m e t i t a t t e m t e d t o s ri ng
, p p
acro ss t h e st r e am b u t my righ t barr e l caugh t i t fai rly
, ,

a l i t t l e i n fron t o f t h e e a r and ov e r i t w e n t wi t h a
,

s la s h i n t o t h e wa t e r ; a s t h e d e e r ru s h e d forward I
’
p
gav e h i m t h e l e ft barr e l b u t h e s t u mbl e d o nl y and
, , ,

r e cov e ri ng h i m se l f bound e d magnific e n t ly ac ro ss t h e

,

ri v e r an d ru sh e d down h ill T h e t ig e r w a s born e

.

d own by t h e curr e n t roll ing ov e r and ov e r and I

, ,

y e l l e d o u t for t h e sh ik a r i e t o com e u p shar p a s I di d ,

n o t wan t t o wad e i n t o t h e wa t e r and e t we t T h e re

g .

w a s no r e p l y for a m i nu t e t h e n t h e r e w a s a S ho t s om e

way off i n t h e j ungl e i n t h e dir e c t ion t ak e n by t h e

,

s ambur .I agai n call e d o u t —followi ng t h e cour s e of

t h e s t r e am . P r e s e n t ly t h e body of t h e t ig e r w a s
caugh t i n s om e cr e e p e r s and ancho r e d t h e r e I now .

fi r e d o ff a s ho t and i n a fe w m i n u t e s t h e sh ik a r i e cam e
,

I o in t e d o u t t h e s lain an d bid h i m drag i t a s hor e

u
p .
p ,
.

H e had l i t t l e o n b e s id e s a i n ng ooiy a s l i p of clo t h ,

b e t w e e n h i s l e g s t uck e d i n t o a band acro ss h i s wai s t

,

a s h e wad e d i n ,
h e cal l e d o u t t ha t h e had s ho t t h e
s ambu r wh ich had ru s h e d al mo s t o n t o t h e t o of h i m
, p .

W e dragg e d t h e body o n t o t h e b e ach ; I s e n t t h e

s h i k a r i e back t o t h e cam t e ll i ng t h e p e o p l e t o r e mai n
p ,

t h e r e for t h e day t o se nd m e n a t onc e for t ak i ng

,

o ff t h e p e l t s of t h e v ic t i m s and t o s e cur e s u ffici e n t

,

m e a t for our follow e r s and t h e marrow bon e s fo r m y

se lf . I t h e n mad e t w o forc e d march e s a n d g o t back t o
t h e can t onm e n t S hoo t i ng a s p o t t e d d e e r o n t h e way
, .
 [ 2 1 8 ]

C H A PT E R X I .

S P OR T I N T H E H I L L Y D I S TR I CTS , N OR TH E R N
CI R CA S , ATAD R AS P RE S I D E N C Y .

S t a r t fo r D a ra c o n d a j — S l t —B
l i c k s — ri n a ri e
S c e e a t da y h u n te rs a n

d a b n d c e o f g m e —B e a sh oo t i g —A
-

l i gh t —Va i e ty r an u an a r- n

h u t i g c h it —
n n P o c pi —Fi i g t h e g a ss—O n t h e t a bl e
a r u nes r n r

lan d—T ige b e a s d de e —B ff l oe s d swa m p de e —F o

r, r an r u a an -
r ur

t i g e s—A m i x e d b g o
r C h i t m a s D a y—C m p i t h e fo e st
a n r s a n r

T w e ty o e da ys spo t —R e t u t o t h e c oa st
n -
n
’
r rn .

I N I t ook a coa st i ng st e am e r t o C ocanada t h e nc e

1 8 78 ,

by boa t t h rough t h e canal s t o R aj ah m undry wh e r e I ,

o nl y s t ay e d a day o r t w o t h e n d ak e d o u t t o J u g u m p e t a , .

I had l e t t e rs from a na t i v e o f i n flu e nc e t o t h e h e ad
, ,

man t h e r e and h e p rocu r e d for m e t e n B r i n j a r i e p ack

,

b ullock s who w e r e t o p roc e e d w i t h m e on a t h re e

,

m on t h s t our and t h e n go o n t o K a m p t ie wh il s t I
’

, ,

r e t u rn e d ac ro ss t h e G o d a v e r y t o W a r u n g u l t h e nc e t o ,

S e cund e raba d and t o B o m bay t o e mbark I bough t a .

fai r i a i i oo o r n a t iv e p ony r e ally good o f i t s ki nd fo r

, , ,

1 2 5 ru e e s I had of cour se my o wn s addl e bridl e

p .
, , , ,

e tc . M y ba t t e ry con s i st e d of t w o t w e lv e bor e doubl e -

ri fl e s an e x p r e ss 5 77 and a s moo t h bor e all of t h e m

,
‘
-
,

havi ng b e e n mad e t o ord e r for m e by a l e ading

B i rm i n gham mak e r M y r e t i nu e con s i st e d of a cook . ,

a d r e ss i ng — boy a m a t y boy and a é a /a s/z i or t e n t

,
-
,
2 20 RE M I N I SC E N C ES OE I N D I A

all I could g e t from t h e fe w v illag e s w e had p a sse d

.

t h ro ugh ,
and a s I had knock e d ov e r p e a fowl and -

j u ngl e fowl daily I had n o r drawn u p on my ow n

-
,

sup l i e s
p . T h e B j
r i n a r i e s had al s o kill e d s om e t hi ng

for t h e i r dog s e v e ry day wh ich s u ffi c e d fo r t h e m and

,

m y r e t i nu e .

T wo of t h e B r i n j a r i e s offe r e d t o a c t a s gun carri e r s -

,

an d I gladly avail e d my se l f of t h e i r s e rv ic e s O ur .

fi r s t h un t com m e nc e d o n D e c e mb e r 2 I t w a s d e cid e dl y . -

ch illy i n t h e e arly morn ing ; I had t o b e u p an d

away an hou r b e for e daybr e ak fo r t h e grou nd wh e r e ,

w e e x p e c t e d t o fi nd s am bu r and g aur w a s fully fi v e

m il e s away ov e r v e ry rough ground and i n o rd e r t o ,

find t h e fin e s t an i mal s w e had t o b e a t our p o s t s by

d ayl igh t . I n t h e for e s t s i t w a s p i t ch dark and w e -
,

s t um bl e d ov e r many roo t s and o u t lyi n g rock s The

-
.

B r i n j a r i e s kn e w t h e ground b u t t w o v illag e r s al s o
,

accom p an i e d u s .

I n all t h e se h ill s t h e r e a r e sal t l ick s t h e favo u ri t e -

,

r e sor t of all ki nd s of gam e and w e cam e u p on t h e ,

fir s t a t dawn T h e m e n h id t h e m se lv e s aft e r s t a t i on
.

i ng m e b e s id e a hug e t r e e T h e so call e d s al t l ic k
.
- -

con s i st e d o f a d e p r e ss ion p e rha p s t h ir t y yard s long by

,

t e n broad h e av il y fri ng e d wi t h j ungl e

,
I t w a s s wam p y .
,

and con s i s t e d of a wh i t i sh e ar t h s t rongl y i m p r e gna t e d ,

wi t h s al t I w a s abou t t h e m iddl e and could e a s ily

.
,

com mand bo t h e nd s T h e b e d of t h e hollow w a s

.

abou t t e n fe e t b e low wh e r e I sa t so no t h i ng could , .

g et a t me d i r e ct and my
,
flank s w e re
p ro t e c t e d by

bu t t r e sse s wh il s t t h e t run k of t h e t r e e s om e fi v e
, ,

fe e t i n diam e t e r cov e r e d m y r e ar
,
M y m e n w e re .

e n s conc e d i n variou s S h rub s of no gr e a t h e igh t bu t ,

 SU N R I SE AT A SAL T L I C K -
221

o f d e n se fol iag e As t h e l igh t b e cam e cl e ar e r s e v e ral

.
,

s l e ndid p e acock s s t ru t t e d o u t i n t o t h e cl e aranc e dri nk

p ,

i n g fro m a l i t t l e p ool and t h e n s c ra t ch ing u p t h e grou n d

,

a t t h e e d g e i n s e arch of grub s an t s or any t h i ng t ha t , ,

t h e y could fi nd T h e n follow e d se v e ral p e ah e n s and

.
,

o n e old cock di sp lay e d h i s t ail fe a t h e r s e r e c t ing t h e m -

,

i n t o a hug e fan for t h e i r sp e c ial adm i ra t ion .

P r e se n t ly s e v e ral j u ngl e fowl and cock s cam e o n t h e-

sce n e . C lo se o n s un ri se I h e ard t h e b e ll i ng of se v e ral

s ambu r and a fe w t i mid d o e s mad e t h e i r a pp e aranc e
, ,

an d aft e r a wh il e a magn ific e n t s t ag s t e pp e d i n t o t h e

ar e na H e w a s o nl y abou t fift e e n p ac e s fro m m e and
.
,

I could hav e kill e d h i m a t any mom e n t ; b u t i t w a s

v e ry i n t e r e st i ng wa t ch ing t h e variou s gam e a s i t a p
p e a re d ,
h e e ding no dang e r and u t t e rl y u ncon s ciou s
,

t ha t t h e i r arch e n e my man w a s s o clo s e t o t h e m

, , .

F or fully a quar t e r of an hou r n o t h i ng e l se a pp e ar e d

" ’
t h e n a son n a e r o f hog con s i st i ng o f o n e hug e boar
,

and se v e ral s ow s e n t e r e d t h e mar s h and wallow e d i n

, ,

a m i ry b i t I n abou t fi v e m i n u t e s m or e t h e r e w a s a
.

d i st an t low and a h e rd o f fi v e o r s ix gau r all cow s

, , ,

accom pani e d by s e v e ral cal v e s e n t e r e d t h e cl e ari ng , ,

and s t and ing u p t o t h e i r kn e e s i n t h e s o ft yi e ldi n g

, ,

s oil,
b e gan t o e a t t h e e ar t h T h e s e w e re a t o n e e n d .
,

t h e sambu r a t t h e o t h e r and t h e p ig s a t t h e m iddl e , ,

righ t o p p o s i t e t o m e I t w a s a s p re t t y a s c e n e a s o n e
.

could w i sh t o con t e m p la t e and I w a s i n n o h urry t o ,

di st urb i t I t w a s v e ry ch illy and my p o s i t ion w a s a

.
,

cram p e d o n e a s I dare n o t s t ir hand or foo t ; b u t I

,

wai t e d p a t i e n t ly i n h o p e s t ha t s om e t h i ng nobl e r would

,

t u rn u p— nor had I t o wai t lo ng Wi t hou t gi vi ng t h e .

S ou n d e —a h e rd o f wi l d p i g s
r .
2 22 R E M I N I SC E N CES OF I N DIA

l e a s t warn ing an i m m e n se bull gau r s t ood a t th e e dg e

, ,

e e ri ng abou t s u s ic iou s ly ; b ut fi nd ing v ry t h i ng

p p e e ,

se r e n e h e t ook h e ar t of grac e and boldly sp la sh e d

. ,

i n t o t h e o p e n i ng .

M y t h r e e ri fl e s fully cock e d w e r e a t hand and I

, , ,

m u s t ow n I w a s n o t a s e ag e r t o s lay a s u sual for i t ,

w a s v e ry l i k e murd e r fi ring a t s uch a colo ss al b e a s t

,

w i t h i n t e n p ac e s and from s uch a co ign of van t ag e ;

,

fo r e v e n i f h e wi sh e d i t h e could n o t p o ss ibly d o m e
, ,

a n
y i nj u ry T h
. e d e e r had fe d rou nd and t h e st ag ,

w a s wi t h i n s i x or s e v e n p ac e s of t h e bull Taki ng .

the e x p r e ss I dro pp e d t h e bull i n h i s t rac k s and

, ,

s e v e r e ly wound e d t h e s t ag F or a fe w se co nd s t h e r e
.

w a s a p e rfe c t bab e l o f frigh t e n e d b e a s t s fl e e ing for

t h e i r l iv e s and almo s t t umbl ing o n e ov e r t h e o t h e r

, .

T h e p e acock s fle w away u t t e ri ng t h e i r mo s t di s ,

cordan t s cr e am s ; t h e p ig s grun t e d and wi t h t h e , ,

j ungl e fowl s cam p e r e d away all e xc e p t t h e boar wh o

, , ,

s t ood a t t h e e dg e cham i ng h i s t u s k s a s much a s t o

p ,

’
sa
y ,
I w i s h I could s e e you I d t e ach you t o d i s t urb
’
m y mo rn i ng m e al ! I t w a s a t e m p t i ng S ho t and I ,

c ov e t e d h i s i vori e s ; s o t aking u p o n e o f t h e t w e l v e
,

bor e s I p u t a b all t h rough h i s h e ad and h e s ub s id e d

, ,

wi t hou t a groan T h e gaur w a s d e ad b u t t h e s t ag had

.
,

d i s a pp e ar e d ; s o a s s oo n a s my follow e r s mad e t h e i r
a
pp e aranc e I bid,
t h e cool i e s o r villag e r s c u t off t h e , ,

bi s on s h e ad wh ich t h e y r e fu se d t o do s ayi ng i t w a s
’

, ,

s acr e d .B u t t h e B r i n j a r i e s had no s uch com p unc t ion s ,

and o n e o f t h e m s aid h e kn e w s om e D a n g u r s—m e n of

l ow ca s t e — wh o would b e glad of t h e m e a t and h e l p ,

h i m t o S ki n t h e an imal so I s e n t h i m and o n e of t h e
v illag e r s back t o fe t ch t h e m I e xam i n e d t h e bull ; .
2 24 R E M I N I SCE N C ES OF INDIA

th e
’

ig e r s wh i s k e r s and w a s much di sgu s t e d a t m y

t ,

r e v e n t ing h i m a s h e s aid i t w a s a n e c e ss ary o e ra

p ,
p
t ion o t h e rwi s e t h e t ig e r s s p i ri t would haun t u s
’

, It .

w a s a s m uch a s ou r u n i t e d s t r e ng t h could do t o s e p ara t e

t h e t w o an i mal s wh ich lay d e ad b u t w e manag e d t o ,

d rag away t h e royal b e a s t wh o p rov e d o n m e a s u re ,

m e n t t o b e n i n e fe e t s e v e n i nch e s i n l e ng t h ; b u t h i s
t ail w a s v e ry s hor t b e i ng o nl y t w o fe e t n i n e i nch e s
,

l ong H e w a s ma ss iv e and v e ry fa t
. T h e sa m .

bu r t o o w a s a p riz e a s h e had a sp l e ndid h e ad

, , , ,

o nly i nfe rio r t o o n e or t w o i n t h e p o sse ss ion o f t ha t

v e t e ran s por t s man D ougla s H am il t on who i n h i s day
, ,

robabl y kill ed mor e gam e t han any man i n t h e

p
M adra s P r e s id e ncy e xc e p t p e rhap s N igh t i ngal e and
, , ,

M i t ch e ll and c e r t ai nl y had t h e fin e s t sambu r h e ad s i n

,

h i s coll e c t io n a t O o t y I e v e r sa w I s e n t t h e v illag e r .

back t o g e t h e l p wh il e t h e B r i n j a r i e and I flay e d t h e

,

t w o an i mal s and b e for e w e had qu i t e fin i s h e d ou r t a s k

, ,

s i x o r e igh t w ild looki ng fe llow s cam e u p ; t h e s e t ook

-

t h e s mal l br e a st bon e of t h e t ig e r a s a charm and s om e ,

o f h i s fa t wh ich t h e y said w a s a cu re for rh e uma t i s m

,

i f w e ll rubb e d i n .

T h e m e n t old m e abou t t w o m il e s fur t h e r t h e r e w e r e

s om e b e ar d e n s and i f I l ik e d t h e y would s mok e t h e
-
,

b e ar s o u t B u t I p ro p o s e d go ing t h e re la t e r i n t h e
.

day t o s i t ov e r t h e cav e s a s I wan t e d t o s e e t h e t ig e r s

,
’

s ki n w e ll p e gg e d down ; b e s id e s I kn e w i f my back ,

w a s t urn e d for a mi nu t e t h e b e a s t s wh i s k e rs would

’

di sa pp e ar so I accom p an i e d t h e m e n w i t h t h e sp oil s
,

of t h e cha se back t o cam p O n t h e way I h e ard a .

in a n i a aé
j (s mall d eer
) barking and goi ng i n t ha t ,

d i re c t ion I sa w h i m i n a s t a t e of e xc i t e m e n t and
, ,
 B EA R DE N S 225

s hould hav e p e e r e d abou t for i t s cau se ; b u t a s t h e

’

l i t t l e an i mal s horn s w e r e ra t h e r good of t h e i r ki nd ,

I fool i shly fir e d a t h im and o n t h e r e p or t a b e au t iful

,

l e o p ard bound e d away I o nly sa w h i s sp o t t e d h id e

.

for an i n s t an t and t oo k a s nap sho t b u t u nfor t u na t e ly

,
-
,

m i sse d m y ball cra sh i ng i n t o a t r e e j u st abov e wh e re

,

h e had di sap p e ar e d T h e B r i n j a r i e t ook u p t h e d e e r

.
,

and w e g o t back t o cam p abou t hal f p a st t e n -

.

Whil s t I had m y ba t h all hand s w e r e bu s y p r e p ari ng

,

bamboo p e g s an d aft e r br e akfa st I s u p e ri n t e nd e d t h e

,

s t r e t ch ing o u t of t h e h
’

p e l ts T e t ig e r s s ki n wh e n .
,

e gg e d ou t m e a s u r e d clo s e u o n t h i r t e e n fe e t T h
'

p , p e .

’
s ambur s an d t h e gau r s and o t h e r h e ad s w e r e boil e d i n
’

e ar t h e nwar e p o t s car e b e i ng t ak e n t ha t t h e horn s w e r e

,

n o t s ubm e rg e d T h i s p roc e ss loo s e n s t h e t e e t h b u t

.
,

r e nd e rs t h e s kull s b e au t i fully wh i t e and fr e e from all

offe n s iv e s m e ll s T h e r e w a s am p l e m e a t for e v e ry
.

body ; t h e p e o p l e p r e t t y w e ll gorg e d t h e m se l v e s and ,

wh e n I p ro p o se d t o s t ar t for t h e cav e s non e of t h e m ,

se e m e d will i ng t o m ov e .

T h e d e n s w e r e a l ong way o ff s o t aki ng m y e x p r e s s , ,

and accom p an i e d by a B r i n j a r i e w i t h t h e s ho t gun I ,

w e n t t h rough p a t ch e s o f cul t i va t ion I s oo n chang e d .

t h e ri fl e for t h e s moo t h bor e and had ca p i t al s p or t for

-
, ,

j ungl e fowl p ar t ridg e and sp ur fowl w e r e p l e n t i ful lay

, ,

w e ll and gav e e a sy s ho t s I w e n t back w i t h s e v e n

, .

brac e and a half of s or t s At n igh t I had t h e s ki n s .

cov e r e d ov e r wi t h brambl e s and hug e fir e s l i t t o k e e p ,

o ff hy e na s and jackal s I w a s u p and away w i t h my

.

follow e r s a t 4 a m I t w a s s o dark w e t ook t orch e s

.

t o s how t h e way W e di d n o t follow t h e p a t h o f t h e

.

p r e viou s day b u t t ook a s ho r t c u t wh ich w a s i nfin i t e l y

,
-
,

I S
22 6 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I N DIA

wors e W e w e n t u p h ill and down d al e t h rough

.
,

na s t y looking ravi n e s cro ss e d s e v e ral s mall s t r e am s

-
, ,

and e v e n t ually cl i mb e d u p a v e ry rocky h ill al mo st

d e s t i t u t e of v e g e t a t ion .

I t w a s s t ill dark wh e n w e g o t t h e r e b u t t h e mo rn i ng ,

s t ar w a s w e l l u
p and by ,t h e t im e I w a s p o s t e d dawn ,

b e gan t o app e ar T h e r e a r e b u t fe w i nhabi t an t s i n

.

t h e s e p ar t s so t h e w il d b e a s t s r e mai n o u t ra t h e r
,

la t e a s t h e y a r e n e v e r di st urb e d ; i t m u st hav e b e e n
,

fully se v e n b e for e I sa w any t h i ng T h e n t w o b e ars .

w e n t i n t o a cav e o u t o f s ho t I sa w t w o or t h r e e .

o t h e r s wan d e ri ng abou t wh ich di sa pp e ar e d b u t no t h ing

, ,

cam e t o my cav e un t il p a st e igh t .

T h e m e n t old m e i t w a s t h e larg e s t d e n and t ha t ,

t h e r e w a s a whol e fam ily of b e ar s wh o l iv e d i n i t ,

t h e mal e b e i ng p ar t icularl y v iciou s and t ha t s e v e ral ,

v illag e rs had b e e n cha s e d by h im Th e y had p o s t e d .

m e t h e r e a s t h e y wan t e d h i m kill e d ; t h e o t h e rs t h e y ,

s aid did t h e m no harm I t w a s g e t t ing la t e and I

, .
,

w a s t h i nki ng of t ryi ng t o s mok e o u t s om e of t h e b e ar s

I had se e n b u t t h e m e n b e gg e d m e t o r e mai n a l i t t l e
,

long e r t o wh ich I con se n t e d

, .

C lo se u pon 9 a m I s a w fi v e b e ar s com ing m y way

. .

I w a s lyi ng o n t h e t o p of t h e cav e ov e r t h e e n t ranc e , .

Th e r e w e re hug e rock s and gran i t e s lab s abou t T h e .

b e ar s s e e m e d i n n o hu rry ; t h e y s t o p p e d h e r e and
t h e r e t urn i ng ov e r s t on e s and d e vou ring variou s ,

b e e t l e s wh ich t h e y fou nd u nd e rn e a t h At la st o n t h e .

t o p of t h e cr e s t a pp e ar e d t h e ugly mug o f t h e ol d

b e ar I gav e h i m a s ho t and h e fe ll on t h e t op of
.
,

a l arg e fe mal e and im m e dia t e l y p i t ch e d i n t o h e r and

, ,

t h e y roll e d downh ill T h e o t h e r fe mal e follow e d by

.
,
2 28 RE M IN I SCE N CES OF IND IA

wh ich I sho t I t h e n se n t t h e V illag e rs t o h e l p t h e

.

o t h e r s and t o carry t h e s p o il s t o t h e V illag e and

, , ,

acco m p an i e d by t h e B r i n j a r i e s I wal k e d along t h e ,

s um m i t of t h e h ill .

I had gon e s om e way wh e n o n e of t h e m e n t ouch e d ,

m e and p oi n t e d t o a rock s ayi ng i n T e l e g o o

,
C h i na , ,
‘

ul i I look e d b u t could se e no t h ing I wan e d to

’

p .
,
t .

advanc e b u t t h e man h e l d m e back and s t ill p oi n t e d

, , ,

and se e m e d a s t on i s h e d t ha t I could n o t se e wha t w a s

so
p lai n t o h i m A t la s t t h e v e ry s l igh t e s t m ov e m e n t
.

o n t h e p ar t of t h e b e a st r e v e al e d h i m t o m e I t wa s .

a F e /i s j n éa i a or hu n t i ng ch i t a l yi ng fl a t on a rock
, ,

wa t ch i ng s om e t h i ng b e low I t w a s t h e fi rs t a t wh ich .

I had e v e r had a chanc e for t hough t h e y a r e n o t a t ,

all rar e b e i ng di s t ribu t e d o v e r con s id e rabl e p or t ion s

,

of I ndia I had n e v e r com e acro ss o n e i n t h e j ungl e s

, .

Th i s o n e w a s o nly abou t for t y p ac e s off so I had ,

no gr e a t fe ar of fail i ng t o bag h im I chang e d t h e .

charg e i n t h e e x p re ss s ub s t i t u t i ng t h e s h e ll for t h e
,

s ol id con ical a n d firi ng b e h i nd t h e

,
S hould e r h e fe ll ,

ov e r t h e rock and w e foun d h i m s t on e d e ad H is

,
-
.

f ull l e ng t h t ail i nclud e d w a s a l i t t l e ov e r s e v e n fe e t

, , .

I w a s v e ry w e ll p l e a se d a t g e t t i ng t hi s sp e ci m e n fo r m y
coll e c t ion I t di d n o t t ak e u s long t o flay h i m and t o
.

c u t off h i s h e ad and by t h e t i m e w e had fi n i s h e d i t

,

w a s g e t t ing t oward s m id day W e wal k e d back t o -

.

t h e V illag e W e s a w s om e d o e s ambu r b u t a s t h e re
.
, ,

w a s p l e n t y of m e a t i n cam p d id n o t fi r e a t t h e m , .

I d id n o t go o u t i n t h e aft e rnoo n b u t s u p e r ,

i n t e nd e d t h e p e gging o u t of t h e s ki n s and had a rud e ,

cag e mad e for t h e b e ar s M il k w a s n o t v e ry p l e n t iful .

,

b u t w e g o t j u s t s uffi ci e n t t o k e e p t h e l i t t l e o n e s al iv e ,
 P LE N T I F UL G AME 2 29

and t h e y gav e u s gr e a t t roubl e i n fe e di ng t h e m T h e y .

only s u rviv e d t h r e e day s ; t h e n t h e y manag e d t o g e t

o u t s om e h ow and w e r e k ill e d by t h e B r i n j a r i e d og s
,
.

I had variou s l uck h e r e kill i ng t h r e e bull gau r fi v e

, ,

s am bu r , on e l e o p ard t w o four horn e d an t e lo p e a n d

,
-
,

t h e n o n D e c e mb e r 1 0 I w e n t i n l igh t march ing o rd e r

t o t h e P e n d a k o o n d a rang e T h e se h ill s a r e abou t

.

fe e t h igh wi t h t abl e land a t t h e t o p I t t ook m e

, .

t h r e e day s t o g e t t h e r e t h rough t h e mo st abom i nabl e

,

coun t ry I e v e r s crambl e d ov e r i n m y l i fe W e foll ow e d .

t h e p ar t ially dry b e d of a wa t e rcour s e wh ich l e d t o

-

t h e rang e . W e sa w m uch gam e o r ra t h e r h e ard i t , , , ,

for m ovi ng abou t w a s n o t e a s y work and t h e noi se ,

w e mad e e ffe c t ually drov e away all t h e an imal s ; b u t

by hal t i ng and going s om e way u p t h e ri vul e t and ,

s t a t ion i ng my se l f b e h i nd rock s I d id g e t se v e ral s ho t s

,

t oward s e v e n ing wh e n t h e d e e r cam e down t o dri nk

,
.

I n t h i s ignobl e man n e r I kill e d four s ambur t h r e e of ,

t h e m b e i ng do e s and only o n e a s t ag I al s o g o t t w o .

p e acock s and a
p orcu p i n e t h e la t t e r b e ing v e ry good
,

e a t i ng if p ro p e rly cook e d .

O n D e c e mb e r 1 4 aft e r o n e of t h e m o st fa t igu i ng
,

cl imb s I e v e r had i n my l i fe I r e ach e d t h e p la t e au

,
.

T h e gra ss w a s v e ry h igh b u t I t ri e d m y old d o d g e o f

,

a bamboo ladd e r and by p lan t ing i t agai n st t r e e s sa w

,

much gam e O n e ol d gau r gav e m e much t roubl e h e

.

w a s badly h i t —would run and h id e and t h e n charg e ,

o u t fi e rc e ly . I mu st hav e fir e d fi ft e e n or t w e n t y s ho t s
at h i m b e for e I laid h i m low and many w e r e t h e ,

narrow e s ca p e s w e had fro m t h i s s avag e ol d b u ll .

A ft e r t h e fir s t day I d e t e rm i n e d t o t r y and bu rn t h e
l ong gra ss ; t h e r e had b e e n n o rai n for a con s id e rabl e
256 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

t i m e and t hough t h e r e w e r e h e avy d e w s a t n igh t t h e

, ,

h e a t i n t h e day w a s con s id e rabl e T h e r e w a s no .

s carc i t y of old ro t t e n wood and bamboo s abou t and ,

w e coll e c t e d a l o t and mad e h e a p s of t h e m h e r e and

t h e r e and abou t 1 p m o n D e c e mb e r 1 6 w e fi r e d t h e m
,
.

s i mul t an e ou sly . At fir s t t h e gra ss would n o t bu rn ,

b u t a s i t dri e d i t caugh t fi r e wh ich ra p idly s p r e ad

,

abou t 4 p m .

I t w a s a grand s igh t t h e whol e s u rfac e w a s al igh t ,

t h e bamboo s bur s t ing w i t h r e p or t s l i k e p i s t ol s ho t s -

.

I t con t i nu e d t h e whol e n igh t and n e x t day Wi t h i n .

t h i r t y s i x hou r s fully a s many m il e s i n l e ng t h

-
and ,

p e rha s a
p m il e i n br e ad t h,
had b ee n burn t T h e .

vall e y s w e r e all b u t u n t o uch e d and for t h re e day s I

,

wand e r e d abou t i n t h e mo st l ov e ly for e s t s I e v e r sa w

t h e s u n w a s s carc e ly e v e r vi s ibl e T h e c o n fla g r a t i o n
.

had d i st urb e d t h e gam e b u t I g o t t w o gau r and o n e

,

s ambur .

O n D e c e mb e r 2 1 w e mov e d cam p followi ng t h e ,

p la t e au wh,
ich lay i n a nor t h w
-
e s t e rly dir e c t ion T h e .

fi r e had don e i t s work and t h e s urfac e w a s n e arly bar e

, ,

o nl y a clu m p of gra ss h e r e and t h e r e havi ng e s ca p e d .

M ark s of gam e w e re p l e n t i ful ; t h e i r s lo t s w e re s ca t t e r e d

o v e r t h e a sh e s W e s t ar t e d v e ry e arly t aki ng our
.
,

g (
( E a er! l e a t h e rn bo t t l e s
) fill e d wi t h wa t e r fo r s t r e am,

l e t s w e r e only m e t w i t h h e re and t h e r e far a p ar t and , ,

s o m e way down t h e h ill s id e s . W e s a w many l a n g oor s

( mon k e ys
) bu s y t urn i ng ov e r t h e s t on e s i n s e arch o f

b e e t l e s ; t h e y s wor e a t u s i n t h e i r own langu a g e for

di s t urbi ng t h e m O ur p rogr e s s w a s v e ry S l ow for a ll
.
,

our t ra p s had t o b e carri e d by m e n and t h e r e w e re no ,

p a t h s o t h e r t han t ho se mad e by wild b e a s t s W e d .i d

2 32 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

your sh i n s and you don t bl e ss t h e fr e t ful cr e a t ur e s t h e

,
’

cau se of you r agony I t w a s j u st d awn obj e c t s w e r e .

s t ill i ndi s t i nc t wh e n I s a w s om e t h ing black m ovi n g

,

along acro s s u s a t abou t t w e n t y or t h ir t y p ac e s I .

st o e d t o t a b t t r l ook wh n n e of t h e B r i n j ar i e s
pp g e e e e o ,

‘
s aid P e dda p ul i wh ich m e an s t ig e r I had h e ard of
’

, , . ,

and i n d e e d s e e n blac k p an t h e r s b u t d id n o t b e l i e v e i n
, ,

t h e e xi s t e nc e of a black t ig e r ; b u t i n t h e du s k t h i s

an i mal had t h e S hap e of a t ig e r and w a s c e r t ainly ,

black I t w a s m ov i ng along l e i s ur e l y an d ai m i ng a s
.
, ,

w e ll a s I could I l e t fly T h e r e w a s a bou nd and a

, .

roar ; I t ook a se cond and s na p s ho t w i t h wha t r e s ul t -

,

I co u ld n o t t e ll a s t h e n e x t mom e n t t h e obj e c t di s
,

app e ar e d down t h e h ill s id e .

I i m m e dia t e ly call e d a hal t d e t e rm i n e d t o s e arch fo r ,

t h e cr e a t ur e a s a blac k t ig e r w a s n o t t o b e m e t w i t h
,

e v e ry day As s oo n a s i t w a s l igh t e nough I t ook u p

.

t h e t rail .T h e b e a s t had bound e d along diggi ng h i s ,

claw s i n t o t h e ground a s u r e S ign of i t s b e ing h i t and , ,

i n a p a ss ion O v e r t h e cr e s t t h e r e w a s a l i t t l e gra ss
.

and S h or t j u ngl e s o I had t o advanc e v e ry cau t iou sly

, ,

for i n s uch a p lac e a t ig e r i s a v e ry dang e rou s ani mal ,

a s i t can h id e wh e r e o n e woul d t h i nk t h e r e w a s n o t

s uffici e n t cov e r for a har e I t rac e d h i m s t e p by s t e p .

dow n h ill for a quar t e r of a m il e ; t h e n I could s e e

s om e gra s s moving backward s and fo rward s and kn e w ,

t ha t t h e t ig e r w a s a t bay .

M y bamboo ladd e r wh ich a man carri e d b e h ind m e , ,

cam e i n v e ry handil y I bid t h e m e n mak e t h e m se l v e s .

s carc e wh il st I cl i mb e d u p t h e n e ar e s t t r e e
, I could .

n o t se e t h e an i mal b u t fi r e d s e v e ral random s ho t s i n t o

,

t h e gra ss A ft e r e v e ry s ho t t h e m ov e m e n t c e a se d for
.
 A B LAC K T IG E R ? 2 33

a mom e n t t h e n t h e t ail w a s sway e d abou t a s u s ual

,
I .

did n o t wan t t o wa st e am mu n i t ion b u t how t o g e t a t ,

t h e an i mal I d id n o t know I t h e n t ri e d a s h e ll and

.
,

t h i s bur s t i ng clo s e by mad e t h e t ig e r mov e

, ,
I g ot a .

m om en t ary gl i m p s e and fi r e d ; t h e t h ud t ol d m e I

had h i t and t h e bru t e l e ft m e i n no doub t a s b e fore

, , ,

I could r e load h e charg e d and claw e d a t t h e t run k of

,

t h e t re e . H e w a s so i mm e dia t e ly b e low m e t ha t I
could n o t fi r e ; b u t o n e o f t h e B r i n j a r i e s had t h e se n se
t o t h row h i s p uggar e e from a t r e e clo s e by t oward s

t h e t ig e r wh ich i m m e dia t e ly ru s h e d a t i t and I bowl e d

, ,

h i m o v e r wi t h t w o s ho t s M y d i s gu s t may b e i magi n e d
.

wh e n I fo und h i m t o b e b u t an ordi nary t ig e r b u t h e

had b e e n rol l ing i n t h e bu rn t gra ss and i n t h e dim ,

l igh t look e d black H e w a s a fai r s i z e d an i mal n i n e

.
-
,

fe e t fou r i nch e s i n l e ng t h an d ma ss iv e W e lo s t no
,
.

t im e i n s ki nn ing h i m and t h e n r e s um e d ou r march

,
.

Wh e n w e g o t back t o t h e p la t e au w e sa w by t h e ,

foo t mark s t ha t ou r p e o p l e had go n e on and w e hu rri e d ,

’
aft e r t h e m ; b u t t h e y had a good t w o hour s s t ar t so ,

’
w e did n o t ov e r t ak e t h e m u n t il p a s t t w o o clock and ,

cam p e d s oo n aft e r O ur p e o p l e had s e e n s e v e ral gau r

.

and s ambu r and c e r t ai nl y t h e i r s p oor w a s p l e n t i ful

, .

T h e se ani mal s e a t t h e a sh e s wh e n t h e y can no t g e t a t

t h e wh i t e e ar t h wh ich t h e y a r e s o fond of D uri ng .

t h e nigh t t w o b e ar s w e r e bu sy d igging o u t a wh i t e
’
an t s n e st I w a s half a sl e e p i n m y t e n t wh e n I h e ard
.
,

t h e i r i nhala t io n s a s t h e y s uck e d u
p t h e wh i t e an ts .

L ooki ng t h rough t h e wi ndow of m y t e n t t h e r e w e r e ,

t h e brui n s s ur e e nough bu s ily e ngag e d

, ,
I s e iz e d t h e .

ri fl e and gav e t h e m a righ t and l e ft Th e y bo t h ran

, .

O ff ; b u t I sa w o n e fall an d h e ard t h e o t h e r flound e ri ng

,
2 34 RE M I N I SCE N C ES OF IN DIA

abou t i n s om e bu sh e s T h e cam p w a s alarm e d and

.
,

i t w a s t h r e e o clock
’

. I bid t h e boy g e t t e a and wh il st ,

i t w a s b e i ng p r e p ar e d I w e n t t o w ard s wh e r e t h e b e ar
,

had fall e n h e w a s n o t qu i t e d e ad b u t s e e m e d p aralyz e d , ,

so I u t h i m o u t of h i s ai n I had a long march

p p .

b e for e m e . I had o nl y t ha t day s ra t ion s for m y m e n ’

and I wan t e d t o kill s om e gam e b e fo r e r e achi ng t h e

villag e ; s o I did n o t wai t for morn ing b u t l e avi ng , ,

on e o f t h e B r i n j a r i e s and a villag e r b e h ind I t old ,

t h e m I t hough t t h e y woul d fi nd t h e o t h e r b e ar d e ad

abou t a hundr e d yard s down t h e s lo p e a t dayl igh t .

B u t wh e n t h e y j oi n e d m e t h e y d e clar e d t h e y could n o t
,

fi nd i t —I doub t wh e t h e r t h e y had look e d for i t : fo r

t hough I had l e ft o n e o f m y ri fl e s w i t h t h e m t h e y w e r e ,

n o t accu s t om e d t o fi r e arm s and t hough undoub t e dly

, ,

p l ucky,
had no con fid e nc e i n t h e i r own S hoo t i ng and ,

w e r e n o t l ik e ly t o ru n i n t o dang e r wi t hou t t h e i r dog s

b e i ng clo se by .

I s t ar t e d a t 4 a m wi t h t h e o t h e r B r i n j a r i e and
.
,

’
c e r t ai nly I had a gloriou s day s sp o r t Gaur s o far .

away w e r e wor t hl e ss u nl e s s carryi ng u nu sual h e ad s

, ,

e s e cially a s my cool i e s would n o t e a t t h e fl e s h ; so

p
t hough I sa w s e v e ral ol d bull s I d id n o t fi r e a t t h e m
,
.

A bou t hal f an hou r aft e r da w n I h e ard m o s t u nu s ual ,

s ound s ; and h urryi ng forward o n t u rn i ng rou nd a ,

clum p o f bamboo s I sa w t w o sp l e ndid s t ag s e ngag e d

i n mor t al comba t wh il s t s om e s ix o r s e v e n do e s w e re
,

looki ng on i n a m o s t u nconc e rn e d mann e r T h e t w o .

w e r e w e l l ma t ch e d and al t hough I w a s wi t hi n fift y

,

yard s of t h e m I h id my se l f t o se e t h e dénou e m e n t
,

wi t hou t hav ing b e e n p e rc e i v e d by any o f t h e d e n iz e n s

s o n e ar . T h e t w o s t ag s w e r e wild w i t h fu ry t h e i r ,
2 56 RE M I N I SC E N CES OF I N DIA
th e o t h r for y fou r T h e o n e s I had se cur e d t h e fi rs t
e t -
.

day w e r e an i nch o r t w o l ong e r b u t n o t s o ma ss iv e ,

.

T h e h e ad s w e r e s oon s e v e r e d s om e m e a t c u t off and ,

giv e n t o t h e cool i e s wh e n t h e y cam e u p and w e ,

r e sum e d ou r j ou rn e y .

I n abou t an hour t h e p la t e au b e gan t o s lo pe down

ward s ; t h e r e w a s m or e gra ss abou t for t h e fi r e had ,

b e e n v e ry p ar t ial h e r e and cl um p s o f bamboo s w e re

,

s ca t t e r e d abou t T h e an e ro i d s how e d t ha t w e w e r e
.

fe e t abov e t h e se a — 6 0 0 fe e t l ow e r t han t h e
h igh e s t p o i n t of t h e p la t e au I w a s s ki r t i ng a bamboo
.

clum p and cam e u p o n a bull gau r fac e t o fac e

, H ad .

h e charg e d I s hould hav e b e e n i n an awkward fix b u t

, ,

for t u na t e ly h e wh e e l e d rou nd e x p o s i ng h i s s hould e r

, , ,

and I gav e h i m t h e con t e n t s of bo t h my barr e l s H e .

ran o ff ; b u t I h e ard h i m fall and found h im o n h i s ,

back h i s l e g s u p i n t h e ai r r e s t i n g again s t a clu m p

, ,

o f i mm e n se fe mal e bamboo s s t on e d e ad T h e cool i e s

,
-
.
,

who w e r e clo se by said t h e v illag e w e w e r e bound fo r

,

w a s n o t far di s t an t and t ha t t h e p e o p l e t h e r e a t e bi s on
,

o r any fl e s h hav i ng no ca st e ; so w e hu rri e d forward

,
.

I n ano t h e r hou r w e had d e s c e nd e d n e arly a t hou sand

fe e t and t h e r e for t h e fir s t t i m e w e cam e u p on s om e
,

s ot te d d e e r
p .

Th e r e mu s t hav e b e e n s om e t w e n t y or t h i r t y do e s
and se v e ral buck s ; t h e y j um p e d o u t of a p a t ch o f
gra s s abou t t h r e e fe e t h igh ran s om e fi ft y yar d s and
, ,

t h e n fac e d ro und s t ari ng a t u s I se cur e d a buck and .

a doe H anging t h e m u p t o t h e bamboo s w e w e n t

.
,

on and r e ach e d t h e v illag e —P e dd a c h u r l a e l e va t ion

, ,

fe e t — abou t e l e v e n o clock S om e doz e n m e n’

s t ar t e d a t onc e for t h e m e a t of t h e gau r and t o bri ng ,

 A F T ER B U F F AL O ES 25 7

in t h e sp o t t e d d e e r Wh il s t br e akfa s t w a s b e i n g p r e
.

p ar e,d I had a t al k wi t h s om e of t h e villag e rs t h e ,

B r i n j a r i e ac t i ng a s i n t e r p r e t e r Th e y s aid gam e w a s .

p l e n t i ful . T h e y had t w o old mu s k e t s i n t h e V illag e ,

b u t no p owd e r o r l e ad T h e y kill e d variou s an i mal s

.

wi t h cro ss bow s and arrow s and by m e an s o f p i t fall s

-
,
-
,

wh i ch t h e y s e t i n p a t hway s mad e by wild b e a st s .

T h e y s aid t ha t i f I l ik e d t o s t op a fe w day s t h e y
, ,

would s h ow m e buffalo e s gau r and t w o or t hr e e ki nd s

, ,

of d e e r I g o t ric e for t h e p e op l e h e r e ; b u t my own

.

su l i e s w e re run n i ng s hor t I aid I could onl y

pp so s ,

r e mai n t w o day s w i t h t h e m a s i t would t ak e u s a t ,

l e a s t fi v e day s hard march i ng t o r e ach my cam p a t

’

M u l k a m i n di b u t p rom i se d t h e m s om e p owd e r l e ad
, , ,

and s ho t i f t h e y s how e d m e good s p or t As an e arn e st .

,

I gav e o n e of t h e villag e sh i k a r i e s a fe w charg e s and ,

h e w e n t away w e ll p l e a s e d r e a pp e ari ng a t 3 p m t o
, .

S how t h e way H e t oo k u s downh ill and t h rough

.
,

s om e h orri d j ungl e s t o a fla t mar s hy vall e y cov e re d

,

wi t h long gra ss fully t e n fe e t h igh M y bamboo ladd e r .

w a s all b u t u se l e ss for t h e r e w e r e b u t a v e ry fe w t r e e s
,

s ca t t e r e d abou t and a long way ap ar t W e had t o

, .

mov e along narrow p a t h s mad e by w il d an imal s T h e .

man t old u s t ha t buffalo e s w e r e fai rly p l e n t i ful and I ,

s oon sa w from t h e i r s r e ad e agl e foo t mark s t ha t t h e

p
-

a nd /2 w e r e h e r e
°

.N ow I had s e e n a gre a t d e al of
,

buffalo e s and t h e ir way s and had s ho t v e ry many o f

,

t h e m i n A ssam and B urma and kn e w t ha t t h e r e w a s ,

n o t a mor e s avag e b e a s t o r o n e mor e d iffi cul t t o kill

, ,

i n t h e world t han o n e o f t h e a r n i and I d i d n o t a t a ll ,

l i k e t h e p ro sp e c t of m e e t i ng o n e o n foo t i n t h e s or t o f
j ungl e w e w e r e i n I t woul d hav e b e e n an adm i rabl e
.
 2 38 R E M I N I S C E N CES OF I N D IA

lai n for work o n e l e han t s ; b u t t h e gra ss t ow e r e d

p p
ov e r our h e ad s and w e coul d n o t se e b e yond a yard
,

o r t w o a t t h e mo s t H ow e v e r a s t h e na t iv e w i t h h is
.
,

old T ow e r m u s k e t wal k e d o n a t h i s e a se I wh o w a s , ,

w e ll arm e d and u se d t o all sp or t s d i d n o t l i k e t o lag ,

b e h i nd b u t a t t h e s am e t i m e I d e vou t ly wi s h e d t ha t
, ,

w e m igh t n o t se e an y buffalo e s o n s uch grou nd .

As w e advanc e d t h e gra ss b e cam e h igh e r and mor e

,

d e n se ; t h e n s udd e nl y b e for e u s a pp e ar e d a va st
mar s h cov e r e d w i t h aqua t ic p lan t s an d s hor t gra ss
, ,

wi t h h e r e and t h e r e cl e ar wa t e r s p ac e s wh ich w e r e ,

l i t e rally cov e re d wi t h wild duck P e e ri ng abou t t h e

-
.
,

man p o i n t e d t o a sp o t abou t a quar t e r of a m il e away ,

and t h e r e a h e rd o f buffalo e s w e r e fe e di ng ; t h e y w e r e
wi t h i n fift y yard s of t h e b e l t of long r e e d s wi t h o n e
s ol i t ary t r e e L e av i ng t h e B r i n j a r i e s h e r e an d t e ll i ng
.
,

t h e m t o s crambl e u p i n t o s om e of t h e s t u n t e d t r e e s I ,

gav e t h e villag e r an e x t ra ri fl e t o carry and drawing back ,

i n t o t h e long gra ss w e mad e for t h e s ol i t ary t r e e wh ich

, ,

w a s our landmark and w a s t o b e ou r co ign of van t ag e

, ,

by t or t uou s wild b e a s t p a t h s I t t ook u s mor e t han

-
.

hal f an hour t o g e t t h e r e T h e t r e e w a s e a s y t o .

cl i mb an d s oo n I w a s u p i n t h e t o p mo s t branch e s
, ,

w i t h m y sabl e com p an ion b e s id e m e T h e buffalo e s .

w e r e s e v e n i n n umb e r n o t coun t i n g t h e cal v e s

, .

T h e r e w a s o n e old bull wi t h t h ick ma ss iv e h o rn s .

T h e v illag e r w a s anx iou s t o t r y t h e p owd e r I had

g i v e n h im so I t ook t h e e x t ra ri fl e fro m h i m and
,

h ung i t by i t s sl ing t o a brok e n branch clo se t o m e ,

and p oi n t ing o u t a larg e cow t old h i m t o fi r e a t i t

, ,

wh il s t I fi r e d a t t h e bull ; t h e y w e r e onl y abou t

t h i r t y p ac e s away and p r e s e n t e d an e a s y s ho t
, Th e .
 2 46 REM I N I SCE N C E S OF INDIA

ou r m e n p e rch e d u p i n t h e t r e e s O n a s k i ng t h e .

r e a s on t h e y t old u s t h e y co uld n o t a pp roach t h e

,

buffalo e s a s t h e r e w e r e se v e ral t ig e r s t e ari ng a t t h e

,

bull wh e n t h e y cam e I soon j oi n e d t h e m b u t could

.
,

n o t s e e t h e gho s t of a t ig e r T h e m e n s aid t h e y had

.

r e t i r e d i n t o a p a t ch of gra ss clo se by and i f I wai t e d ,

qu i e t ly s o m e o f t h e m would b e s u r e t o com e o u t i n t o
t h e sp ac e t o dri nk .

T h e h i nd quar t e r o f t h e buffalo had c e r t ainly b e e n

-

w e l l e a t e n an d a s I i n t e nd e d t o m ov e o n t h e m orrow
, ,

I t hough t I m igh t a s w e ll t r y and g e t a s ho t a t t h e

t ig e r s . I had s om e bi s cui t s and p o t t e d m e a t wi t h m e ,

and a fla s k of w i n e s o I t ook i t e a s y F ur t h e r u p t h e
,
.

mars h s e v e ral buffalo e s s how e d t h e m s e l v e s fro m t i m e

t o t i m e b u t w e r e far o u t of s ho t
,
T h e s k y w a s cl e ar .

an d t h e s u n v e ry h o t and I w a s g e t t i ng t i r e d o f b e i ng
,

e rch e d u t h e re and wan t e d t o go hom e ; b u t t h e

p p ,

p pe o l e b e gg e d m e t o r e mai n a l i t t l e long e r I w a s .

g e t t ing s corch e d my se l f and t h e p a t i e n t na t iv e s

, ,

e a t i ng onl y a l i t t l e p arch e d ric e look e d l i k e s o many ,

st at u e s .At la s t a man t ouch e d m e and p oi n t e d i n ,

t h e d ir e c t ion of t h e buffalo Th e r e w a s no t h i ng
.

v i s ibl e b u t t h e s woll e n body b u t o n looki ng abou t I ,

sa w j u s t t h e s l igh t e s t mov e m e n t i n t h e gra ss Th e r e .

w a s a l i t t l e cl e ar wa t e r abou t t w e n t y yard s b e yond ,

and i t w a s e vid e n t t ha t s om e an i mal w a s maki ng fo r

it. I n abou t fi v e m i nu t e s a t ig e r wal k e d i n t o i t and
l ay down t h e n follow e d a t igr e ss wh ich comm e nc e d t o ,

dri nk A ft e r a s l igh t i n t e rval t w o t h r e e p ar t s grown

.
- -

t igr e s s e s s how e d t h e m se lv e s b u t k e p t a p ar t from t h e

,

o t h e rs T h e se t h r e e p r e s e n t e d e a s y s ho t s ; b u t t h e
.

t ig e r,
by far t h e larg e s t had only h i s h e ad abov e
,
 T H R EE T I G E R S B A GG E D 241

wa t e r T h e m e n u rg e d m e t o fi r e and I w a s s or e l y
.
,

t e m p t e d t o do s o b u t d e t e rm i n e d t o g i v e t h e m a l i t t l e
,

more grac e A ft e r s laki ng t h e i r t h i r s t t h e t h r e e

.
,

cam e t o t h e buffal o an d com m e nc e d t o t e ar a t t h e

fl e s h T h e mal e p robably t hough t t h e y w e re e a t ing
.

mor e t h an t h e i r s hare fo r h e t o o g o t u p and dri pp i ng

, , , , ,

w e t a s h e w a s co mm e nc e d h i s r e p a s t
,
.

T h e t igr e ss and t ig e r w e r e clo se t og e t h e r al mo st ,

t ouch i ng I had s om e of my A ssam cart ridg e s l e ft

.

for t h e t w e l v e bor e ; t h e y e ach had s i x d rach m s of

-

owd e r and a s t e e l — t i e d co nical ; so changi ng t h e

p pp ,

e x r e ss fo r t h e larg e r w e a on I wai t e d u n t il t h e t w o
p p ,

h e ad s w e r e clo se t og e t h e r and fi ri ng a t t h e j unc t io n of

,

t h e n e ck an d h e ad I roll e d ov e r t h e t w o wi t h o n e s ho t
,
.

I t p a s s e d cl e an t h rough bo t h and my l e ft barr e l caugh t ,

on e of t h e young st e r s i n t h e s t e rn a s sh e bou nd e d ,

away and di sabl e d h e r T h e t igr e ss w a s s t o n e d e ad ;

, .
-

t h e t ig e r s how e d s om e s ign s o f l ife s o I p u t an e x p r e ss ,

bull e t i n t o h i s h e ad and t h e n d i s moun t i ng I had n o

, , ,

d iffi cul t y i n kill ing t h e t h i rd for s h e w a s u nabl e t o ,

mov e t h e con ical havi ng e n t e r e d h igh u p t h e bu t t ock

, ,

t rav e r se d t h e body and gon e o u t by t h e ch e s t s ma s h

, ,

i ng t h e fore quar t e r t o a t om s Th u s bo t h t h e h i nd
-
.

and fore quar t e r s o n t h e s am e s id e w e re cri p p l e d and ,

all sh e could do w a s t o flou n d e r abou t i n t h e mud .

W e r e mov e d t h e t h r e e d e ad bodi e s t o a dry sp o t ,

’
c u t o ff t h e bu ffalo s h e ad and w e n t back t o t h e villag e
, .

all b u t t h e na t i v e sh ik a r ie wh o s aid h e would s i t u p , ,

a s t h e fou r t h t igr e ss w a s s ur e t o r e t urn I c e r t ai nly .

t hough t h e w a s a fool for h i s p ain s b u t h e kn e w t h e ,

an i mal s b e t t e r t han I d id for sh e cam e back j u s t a t ,

s u n se t and h e sh o t h e r d e ad wi t h o n e ball and r e ach e d

, ,

16
2 42 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA
’
cam p i n t ri um p h a t abou t e igh t o clock T h e t ru t h .

i s t h e wild b e a s t s a r e s o s e ldom d i s t u rb e d h e r e t ha t
,

t h e y do n o t know wha t fe ar i s and do t h i ng s i n t h i s ,

r e mo t e local i t y wh ich t h e y woul d n o t dr e am of do i ng

i n a mor e p o p ulou s di st ric t T h e p e o p l e b e gg e d m e
.

t o r e mai n ano t h e r day and a s my t im e w a s my o wn I

, ,

con se n t e d p rov id e d t h e y wo uld t ak e m e t o s om e fr e s h

,

grou nd for I d id n o t care fo r s hoo t ing b u ffalo e s i n s uch

,

a cou n t ry o n foo t W e w e r e bu s y t ill la t e st aking o u t

.
,

t h e s ki n s and I found t ha t t h e wh i s k e r s of t w o had

,

b e e n r e mov e d I t h r e a t e n e d t o w i t hhol d t h e én e é sb ee sn
.
,

b u t of cour s e o nly s aid t h i s t o frigh t e n t h e m t h e p oor

ignoran t bru t e s kn e w no b e t t e r and i t i s an ar t icl e of ,

fai t h w i t h t h e m alway s t o d e p riv e a t ig e r s s ki n of i t s ’

h ir s u t e adornm e n t s o t h e rwi se t h e y firmly b e l i e v e t ha t

,

s om e t h i ng dr e adful w ill ha e n to the m

pp .

N e x t morning C hri s t ma s D ay I w a s u p and away

, ,

a t abou t a m W e w e n t bac k ov e r t h e rou t e w e

.

had com e by for abou t t w o hour s Th e n w e found t h e .

p la t e au had a branch wh ich w e n t t o t h e w e st and by ,

followi ng i t t h e m e n s ai d w e should r e ach t h e G o d a v e r y

a l i t t l e abov e B u dd r a c h e l l u m w i t hou t hav ing t o a s c e nd
,

o r d e s c e nd abov e o n e hundr e d fe e t o r s o T h e y said i t .

*
t h e whol e way b u t t h e e l e va t io n w a s
’
w a s a 7n a i a a n ,

fe e t Th e r e w a s st ill a gr e a t d e al of gra ss fo r
.
,

t h e fi r e had bu rn t t h e cro p t h e r e b u t v e ry s l igh t ly I .

fancy i t had r e ach e d t h i s aft e r h e avy d e w had fall e n s o ,

had n o t had much e ffe c t I n par t s t h e gra ss w a s v e ry

.

h e avy i n o t h e rs only abou t t h r e e fe e t i n h e igh t T h e

, .

n a t iv e s who t urn e d o u t i n numb e r s se n t m e ah e ad and

, , ,

t h e n s il e n t ly wal k e d t hrough t h e long a t ch e s h i t t ing

p ,

P la i n .
2 44 R E M I N I SC E N C ES OF I N DI A

m ov e i n t h e morn ing T h e p e o p l e w e re r e ally s orry

.

t ha t I w a s go i n g .I w a s t h e fi r s t s ah ib who had e v e r
st o e d a t t h e i r v illag e ; b u t I t ol d t h e m I mu s t b e
pp
mov ing and t ha t I w a s bou nd fo r D a ra c o n d a v ié
,

N u l k a m in d i B u t why go t o N u l k a m i n di t h e y sai d
’
.
, ,

t o g e t t o D a r a c on da ? W e c an t ak e you a s hor t c u t -

t o t h e p la t e au wh ich w ill s av e yo u t hi r t y o r for t y m il e s

’
.

B u t al l m y t ra p s a r e t h e r e I said F o u r of t h e
,
’
.

v illag e rs offe r e d t o go o ff a t o nc e march ing day a n d ,

n igh t an d woul d bring my t ra ps aft e r m e and p robabl y

, ,

b e on t h e a p p oi n t e d s p o t on t h e p la t e au a s s oon a s .

my se l f t h e i r only r e ward w a s t o b e t w o can i st e r s o f

p owd er ,
s om e s ho t and , l e ad T h e e
p p o l.e h e re a r e

n o t afraid of t ig e r s
(t h e re a re no man e a t e r s) ; b ut -

t h e y do dr e ad b e ar s and a t nigh t mov e abou t w i t h

,

t orch e s .

W e d id n o t g e t away ou rse lv e s u n t il daybr e ak a n d ,

t h e n w e r e follow e d by fully t w e n t y adul t s and s om e ,

s i x o r s e v e n you ngi s h wom e n who w e r e v e ry u s e ful ,

i n bri nging wa t e r e t c W e w e n t acro ss p a t h s o nl y

, .

known t o t h e s e p e o p l e I goi ng ah e ad w i t h a cou p l e o f

,

m e n t o s hoo t gam e of wh ich t h e r e w a s p l e n t y

, In .

t h r e e long day s march e s I r e ach e d G u n t i r a

’
hav ing ,

S ho t o n e buffalo t h r e e gau r and t w o s ambu r e n r ou t e

, , .

H e re I hal t e d fo r a day fo r I w a s worn o u t my p ony

,

w a s wi t h m y cam p a t N u l k a m i n d i M any of t h e m e n .

and wom e n had gon e back lad e n wi t h m e a t and t h e r e ,

w e r e only s om e s i x o r s e v e n l e ft w h e n w e s t ar t e d from .

t h e p la t e au ; b u t s e v e ral of t h e m e n and wom e n fro m

t h e n e w v illag e al s o j o i n e d m y cam p For th e ne xt .

four day s w e had a good d e al o f cl imbi ng At firs t .

“

w e w e n t al ong undula t i ng ridg e s t h e n d e s c e nd e d i n t o ,

 A M I XE D B AG 24
5

a d e n se ly wood e d vall e y u p a s t e e p h ill o n t o ano t h e r

,

la t e au and along i t fo r s o m e t w e n t y m il e s t h e n dow n

p , ,

a gai n ,
and a t la s t r e ach e d t h e t abl e land wh ich is o n , ,

an av e rag e , fe e t abov e t h e se a l e v e l and wh ich -

,

e x t e nd s u n i n t e rru t e dl y for fully s e v e n t y m il e s i n a

p
n or t h w e s t e rl y d i r e c t io n
-
w i t h con n e c t i ng sp u r s wi t h
, ,

o t h e r s runn i ng p arall e l T h e rai nfall i s con s i d e rabl e

.
,

a n d t h e r e a r e many wa t e rcou r se s s e ara t i ng t h e variou s

p
la t e aux I w a s glad t o se e t ha t t h e gra s s had b e e n
p .

b u rn t s om e day s for t h e n e w gra ss had com m e nc e d t o

,

s ri ng u
p p .

D u ring t ho se t h r e e day s I had s ho t t h r e e mar s h

d e e r t w o s ambur an d four gau r
, , I had s e e n b e ar s .
,

’g ’
b u t had n o t g o t a sh o t T ig e r s p u g s w e r e fr e qu e n t
.
,

b u t I did n o t s e e t h e an i mal s t h e m se l v e s W e mov e d .

o n t o a wa t e ri ng lac e s om e fi v e m il e s abov e wh e r e
p
-

w e had s t ruck t h e p la t e au and a t l e a s t t w o m il e s ,

b e for e I g o t t h e r e I sa w s ign s t ha t p e o p l e w e r e abou t ,

a n d I gu e ss e d t ha t my cam had arriv e d wh ich rov d

p p e ,

t o b e t h e ca s e Th e y had b e e n t h e r e n e arly t h r e e
.

d ay s t h e y had s t ockad e d t h e p ony a s t h e y sai d t ig e r s ,

a nd
p an t h e r s abou nd e d L ow e r down t h.e B r i n a r ie s
j
had u se d t h e i r dog s an d had kill e d se v e ral d e e r and
, ,

h ad se e n much gam e T h e y had p rocu r e d s uffi ci e n t

.

r ic e t o la s t u s a mo n t h by goi ng long di s t anc e s from

v illag e t o v illag e e xchangi ng sal t for grai n I w a s

, .

p r e t t y w e ll t i r e d and r e s t e d for t w o day s s hoo t ing

, ,

only p e a fowl and sp ur fowl fo r t h e p o t At n igh t

- -
.

many gau r cam e t o dri nk and o n e o r t w o p a sse d righ t ,

t h rough m y cam p .

A ll t h e v illag e rs had l e ft u s carryi ng off an am p l e ,

P g s—foo t m a k s u r .
2 46 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I NDIA

su pp l y o f éi /t on g e xc e p t t w o m e n and t h r e e wom e n
, ,

who p ro p o s e d t o go wi t h u s t o D a r a c o n d a and o n t o ,

B u dd r a c h e l l u m s houl d I d e cid e o n goi ng t ha t way

, I .

n e e d n o t giv e t h e r e s ul t s of e ach day s j ou rn e yi ng s ’

.

F or t w e n t y o n e day s I wand e r e d ov e r a lov e ly coun t ry

-
,

fi ndi ng gam e e v e rywh e r e and kill ing fift e e n gaur t w o

, ,

bu ffal o e s (o n t h e la s t day clo s e t o D a r a c o n d a ) s e v e n

, ,

s ambu r o n e barking d e e r and t h r e e o r fou r fou r horn e d

, ,
-

an t e l o p e t h e s e w e r e kill e d fo r t h e p o t onl y At la st .
,

aft e r wan t ing t o V i s i t t h e se local i t i e s for t w e n t y fi v e -

y e ar s I had accom p l i sh e d my p u rp o se T h e coun t ry

, .

l ow e r down w a s far b e t t e r fo r gam e t han D a r a c o n d a

i t se lf b u t I had had e nough o f S p or t for t h e t i m e
, .

I w e n t o u t t wic e n e ar D a r a c o n d a and kill e d t h re e ,

buffalo e s four mars h d e e r and o n e s ambu r and t h e n

,
-
, , ,

di s m i ss i ng t h e v illag e r s w i t h a good gra t u i t y e ach I ,

al t e r e d m y p lan s and w e n t back ,

.

I had k e p t only six of t h e b e s t gaur h e ad s t h r e e -

,

bu ffal o h e ad s fou r s ambu r and fou r mars h d e e r t w o

-
, ,
-
,

barki ng d e e r t h r e e four h orn e d an t e lo p e and all t h e

,
-
,

t ig e r and b e ar p an t h e r and l e o p ard s ki n s and h e ad s

, , , .

I all ow e d t h e B r i nj a r i e s t o h un t e v e ry day aft e r l e avi n g

D a r a c o n d a ; t h e y u se d t o p i ck o u t a s mall h ill p lac e ,

m e n w i t h a cou p l e o f dog s e ach a t i n t e rval s and t h e n

, , ,

s l i p t h r e e o r fou r cou p l e s T h e se s oon s t ar t e d gam e

.
,

and a s i t a t t e m p t e d t o br e ak o t h e r dog s w e re l e t loo s e ,

and i n a shor t t im e d e e r of all kind s w e r e run down

and kill e d .

I w a s n e arl y four mon t h s i n t h e se h ill s wh ich hav e ,

s uch a d e adly r e u t e I only t ook ordinary car e o f

p .

my se l f I l iv e d a s w e ll a s I could b u t could n o t afford

.
,

t o carry s uffi c i e n t b e e r for t h e t ri p w i t h m e I had .

 [ 2 48
]

C H A PT E R XI I .

M AN E A TE R S AN D B U F F AL OE S
-
.

—H w l i w
t o B u st a r o to ve j u n gl e s—B e n ga l h u m p s
e ll in th e
My s h ik i —T ddy—E
ar es o sc a p e o f t h e m a n e a t e —N i n e p e op l e -
r

k i l l e d—M ov e c a m p —S a d g ou se —M i se i e s o f n igh t wa t c h i n g
—S h oot a t ige r—A oth e r be a t —A wom a n k i l le d—T h e m a n
n -
r r -

e a t e r k i ll e d by b u ffa l oe s—S p o t t e d de e r — A p a n t h e r— B e a rs
Fa i l t o b a g on e ou t o f e igh t —J u gl e fowl —D u m m a pe —Aba n don
S h a e p on i e s—A h u n t wi t h dogs d e sc r i b e d —
n

c a r t s— r A t i g r e ss
T e a k fore st s —M a h se e fi sh i n g i n t h e G oda v e r y —S i r on c h a
r-

L a rge ga m e i n B u st a r —V i c i ou s c h a g e o f b u ffa l oe s— S h ots a t a

sa m b u r a n d t i ge —E n c ou t e r b e t we e n b u ffa l o a n d t i g e r —
r

Sa l t
l i c k s— A m a d ga u r c o n v e r t e d i n t o b e e f—S e n d for c a m p—
r n

T wo
b e a r s wi t h so e h e a ds—B i n j a i dogs—F o u h or n e d a n t e l op e
r r r r-

C a m p a t l a st —Ca u se o f de l a y—A b u ll oc k k i ll e d—I a m t osse d

—Ca r i e d t o t h e c oa st
r .

I H AD l ong i n t e nd e d t aki ng a t ri p i n t o t h e B u s t a r
coun t ry and a fri e nd advi se d m e t o go t h e r e v i a
,

R aj ahmundry and t hrough a p ar t of t h e N i zam s

,

cou n t ry t o S i ro ncha a s h e said t h e r e w a s good S hoo t

,

i n g e n r ou t e and t h e coun t ry w a s n o t s o unh e al t hy a s

,

i t w a s i n t h e nor t h e rn ci rcars ; s o I s e n t o n my cam p

ah e ad an d l e av i ng C ocanada a t 2 a m I r e ach e d my
, . .
,

cam p a t P e dda P u n g a die o n t h e righ t ban k of t h e ,

riv e r G o d a v e r y a t 9 p m ,
I lo st no t im e i n t hrowi ng
.

o ff my du st s t ai n e d garm e n t s and p our e d o v e r m e t h e

-
,

con t e n t s of a l o t of e ar t h e nwar e p o t s fill e d wi t h d e

 I N D I A N F ARE 2 49

l ic io u sly cool wa t e r Th e s e e /za i i i e s a r e p orou s wh e n

.
i“

n e w ; i f fill e d o v e rn igh t t h e i r co n t e n t s cool ra p idly

, ,

o wi ng t o e va ora t ion and no t h i ng r e fr e s h e s o n e i n t h e

p ,

E a st so much a s a ba t h e sp e cially aft e r a lo ng rid e or ,

a ri é j ourn e y
’
I w a s s oo n array e d i n l igh t airy co st u m e
.
, ,

and wh il st p ar t aki ng o f t h e m e al p r e p ar e d for m e I ,

call e d fo r t h e sh ik a r i e s who had b e e n se n t on a ,

for t n igh t ah e ad and a s k e d wha t é a één r t h e y had t o

,

i m ar t
p .

N o w l e t m e giv e t h e r e ad e r an id e a of wha t con

s t i t u t e s a din n e r i n I nd ia a s r e ar e d by an ordi nary
p p ,

M adra s cook a s e x e m p l ifi e d i n my ca se
, F i rst t h e r e .

w a s m ull iga t aw ny s ou p t h e n a fi sh wi t h a nchovy s auc e ,

a n d oy s t e r s
( t i n n e d o f cour se ,
) a ca p o n and a B e ngal ,

h um p chick e n cu t l e t s cu rry and ri c e p opp a a n n zs (t h i n

, , ,
’

wafe r s only p r e p ar e d i n t h e E a st ; v e ry d e l iciou s i f

,

p pro e rly mad e

) ch e e s
, e and ru s k s N ow a p pro e rly .
,

c ur e d hum
p off a good B rah m i n e e bull i s un e quall e d ,

b u t i t i s d ifficul t t o g e t ; ordi nary o n e s a r e com mon

e no ugh for all t h e ca t t l e i n t h e E a s t a r e hu m p e d b u t
, ,

t h e r e i s a s m uch di ffe r e nc e b e t w e e n t h e m and a r e al

h igh h um p off a s acr e d bull a s t h e r e i s b e t w e e n chal k

a n d ch e e se W il so n i n t h e p al my day s of h i s ho t e l i n
.
,

C alcu t t a w a s t h e only man who could b e d e p e nd e d

,

u p on t o su pp ly t h e m a s h e had a larg e farm o f h i s ,

own , and r e ar e d t h e se ca t t l e e x p r e ssly for t h i s gr e a t e s t

o f all d e l icac i e s b u t now t h e y a r e n o t e a sy t o g e t
,
.

B rah m i n s e sp e cially and all H i ndoo s obj e c t n o t only

, ,

t o ordi nary ca t t l e b e i ng kill e d b u t mor e p ar t icularly t o ,

t h e s laugh t e r of t h e s e bull s wh ich i n p ar t s o f N o r t h e rn ,

I n dia roam abou t a t w ill and a r e n e v e r m ol e st e d e v e n ,

C/ t f —e a t h e wa e p ot s
’

za zes r n r .
2
5 0 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

i f t h e y co mm i t gr e a t d amag e s I n t h e M u t i ny w e h a d .

a rar e t im e for t h e n s om e how t h e se bull s cam e fr e

, , ,

qu e n t l y t o gri e f an d t h e ir hu m p s t ongu e s and marro w

, ,

bon e s fo rm e d a com mo n ar t i cl e of food among t h e

t roo p s .

B u t t o r e t urn t o m y t al e T h e h e ad s h i k a r i e w a s
.

E l a p a h a t all t h in H i ndoo v e ry wi ry and far t ough e r

, , , ,

t han h e l ook e d H e bor e t h e mark s o f z s e v e r a l e n

.

cou n t e r s wi t h wild b e a s t s ; h e had b e e n n e arly scal p e d

by a b e ar and ri pp e d by a boar H e w a s no long e r .

young b u t a m a n t horoughly t o b e d e p e nd e d u p o n
,

u nd e r any ci rcum s t an c e s As a gu n carri e r h e w a s .

-

all b u t u nrivall e d and a s a t rack e r h e had fe w e qual s

,
.

H e had b e e n i n my e m p loy for v e ry many y e ar s .

B e for e h e t ook s e rvic e wi t h m e h e had b e e n a p r o

fe ss i o n a l S lay e r of t ig e r s and o t h e r of t h e f er a '

n a i n r ee fo r who se d e s t ruc t ion Gov e rn m e n t giv e a

r e ward b u t a s I gav e h i m a wag e o f 1 5 ru p e e s a
,

mon t h s h i kar clo t h e s w h e n h e cond e s c e nd e d t o w e ar

, ,

t h e m b e s id e s t h e gr e a t e r p a r t o f all s um s I r e c e iv e d
,

fo r dang e rou s an imal s d e s t roy e d h e w a s con t e n t t o p lay ,

s e cond fiddl e and t o h e lp m e t o kill i n s t e ad of s layi n g

, .

b e a st s h i m s e l f F o r a wond e r h e n e v e r dran k t o e xc e ss
.
, ,

b u t had n o obj e c t io n t o a t o t of grog and i f w e cam e ,

t o a t o p e of d a t e or Palmyra p alm s o n a g rill i ng h o t

day h e would b e u p a t r e e l ik e a s qu i rre l bri ng dow n

, ,

t h e p o t con t ai n ing t h e t oddy and aft e r h i s ma s t e r had , ,

t ak e n all h e r e quir e d h e l p h im se l f l ib e rally t o t h e

,

r e mai nd e r N ow t h i s t oddy wh e n u n fe rm e n t e d i s
.
, , ,

n ot only mo s t p ala t abl e and r e fre sh ing b u t mo st ,

whol e som e b u t t h e r e i s t oddy a n a t oddy Y ou n e v e r ’

.

e t i t al ik e from any t w o t r e e s I do n o t t h ink I e v e r

g .
2
5 2 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF IND IA
to d e st roy t h i s an imal b u t t ha t b e in g my se rvan t s and , ,

e x e c t i ng m e dail y t h e y had d e cl in e d
p , .

A man e a t e r ! I e xclai m e d ; wh e n w a s i t la st
’
‘ -
‘

h e ard o f
I t kill e d a you ng woman o nl y t w o d ay s ago abou t ,

t w o e oss (fou r m il e s ) from t h i s a s s h e w a s coll e c t i ng ,

wi t h e r e d s t ick s fo r fir e wood b u t i t h a s n o t b e e n h e ard ,

of
‘ ’ ‘ ’
W e ll s aid I , b e fo re go i ng o n t o t h e N izam s
,

cou n t ry I w ill r e mai n h e r e for a fe w day s and s e e i f ,

’
I can t bag t h e b e a s t B u t i t i s la t e ; b e off t o b e d .
,

and i n t h e m orn ing I ll go wi t h yo u t o t h e v illag e t o ’

a s c e r t ai n i f t h e r e b e any fr e s h i n t e ll ig e nc e .
’

I w a s u p n e x t mo rn i ng a t 5 a m A ft e r t h e u s ual . .

ba t h and e /z ot a na z a r i e wh ich i n m y ca se n e v e r e x ,

c e e de d a c u
p of coff ee I mou n t e d my pg e n — ,
Burm e se

o r S han o ny H and i ng a cou l e of ri fl e s t o t h e t wo

p .
p
a t t e ndan t s and sl i nging my ow n s moo t h bor e ov e r
,
-

m y s hould e r s w e s t ar t e d fo r An a n t e e p o r e t h e haml e t
, ,

i n qu e st ion W e g o t t h e r e s oon aft e r daybr e ak b u t

.
,

could ob t ai n no n e w s of t h e gam e I w a s i n se arch o f .

A ft e r a long p alav e r t h re e o f t h e v illag e r s a e com ,

a n ie d m e and l d m e t h rough a n i c e t r e e fo r e st
p e , ,

wh e r e t h ey said sp o t t e d d e e r w e r e fai rl y p l e n t iful b u t ,

w e mu s t hav e gon e fully four o r fi v e m il e s w i t hou t

s e e i ng a l i vi ng t h i ng wi t h t h e e xc e p t io n o f a fe w
i
,

s qui rr e l s V e t h e n cam e t o an O p e n glad e i n t h e

V
.
,

c e n t r e o f wh ich t h e re w a s a fai r s iz e d t ank I g o t -

.

off t h e p ony and car e fully e xam i n e d t h e margi n of t h e

b e d wh ich con t ai n e d v e ry good wa t e r
, T h e mark s of .

s o t t e d d e e r w e re
p p l e n t i ful wi t h a fe w of s ambu r and ,

i and i n nu m rabl t rac s of e a fo w l j ungl e fowl and

p g e e e p
o -
, , ,
 N EWS OF A MA N EA T E R
- 253

s and gro u se wh il e a t i t s fu r t h e r e x t r e m i t y t h e r e w e r e
-
,

t h e p ug s of a larg e t ig e r wh ich t h e p e o p l e d e clar e d

,

w e r e t ho se of t h e man e a t e r T h i s t rail w e follow e d

-
.

u
p, and mark e d h i m i n t o a d e n se t h ick e t i n t h e m id s t

of t h e for e s t P r e sum i ng t ha t h e woul d l i e u p t h e re

.

du ring t h e h e a t of t h e d a y t h e sh ik a r i e s and I r e
,

m ai n e d on guard an d s e n t t h e v illag e r s t o coll e c t

,

cool i e s wi t h o rd e rs t o bri ng t h e m back a s s oon a s

.

o ss ibl e ; b u t t h e haml e t s w e r e s mall s ca t t e r e d an d

p , ,

far a p art and t h e i nhab i t an t s fe w so I kn e w t ha t a

, ,

con s id e rabl e t i m e m u s t e lap se b e for e t h e r e qu i s i t e

numb e r of m e n could b e coll e c t e d .

I s e n t m y p on y w i t h t h e m t o b e p ick e t e d i n t h e
n e ar e s t v illag e and t o awai t my r e t urn I w a s n o t
,
.

al t og e t h e r a S t rang e r t o t h e s e j u ngl e s ; I had hu n t e d

h e r e y e ar s b e for e and had m e t w i t h s om e s ucc e ss by
,

s i t t i ng u
p a t th e
p ool s ; b u t s i nc e t h e com l e t ion o f
p
t h e A n icu t t h e coun t ry had m uch chang e d t h e variou s

i rriga t io n chan n e l s had mad e a howl i ng wild e rn e ss

i n t o s om e t h i ng r e se mbl ing c iv il iza t ion . H ow e v e r
b e n e ficial t h i s m igh t b e t o t h e r e v e nu e or t o t h e
p pe o l,e i t w a s n o t a bl e ss i ng t o t h e s or t s man and I
p ,

gr e a t ly p re fe rr e d t h e form e r st a t e o f t h i ng s .

I al way s t ak e s om e t h ing t o e a t and d ri n k wi t h m e

wh e n I st ar t on an e x p e d i t ion ; all I r e qu i re d w a s
p p r e ar e d ov e rn igh t and , p ut i n t o a hav e r s ack wh ich
,

R am iah had t o carry . S o I t ook a s nack abo u t

e l e v e n and wa sh e d i t dow n
,
wi t h a p i n t o f p al e a l e .

I n t h e m e anwh il e my t w o a t t e ndan t s car e fully and

noi se l e ssly s cru t i n i z e d t h e cou n t ry rou nd t h e brak e
i n t o wh ich w e had t rac e d t h e fe l i n e ; t h e r e w a s n o
doub t t ha t i t had e n t e r e d t h e p a t ch and had n o t l e ft
2
54 R E M I N I S CE N C E S O F IN DIA

it , so , ho p i ng for t h e b e s t I cho se t h r e e t r e e s o n e , ,

fo r m y s e l f and t w o o t h e r s for t h e s h i k a r i e s s o a s t o ,

g uard e v e ry ou t l e t M y obj e c t w a s t o rid t h e cou n t ry

.

o f i t s s courg e S p or t I coul d g e t i n p l e n t y e l se wh e r e
. .

B u t w ha t a w e ary t i m e w e had of i t ! H our aft e r

h our p a sse d y e t no b e a t e r s T h e m e n wi t h m e had
, .

brough t a l i t t l e p arch e d ric e and munch e d i t a s t h e y ,

s a t l i k e a cou l e o f s t a t u e s o n t h e i r rch b t t h i r
p p e e s u e ,

e /za u i
g (a l e a t h e r bag ) of wa t e r w a s s oon e xhau s t e d ,

for t h e h e a t w a s mo s t o p p r e ss i v e wi t hou t a br e a t h o f ,

w i nd . T h e m e n w e r e afrai d t o go s i ngly t o t h e t an k
for a fr e sh s u p p ly and I did n o t l i k e t h e t w o t o vaca t e
,

t h e i r p o s t s for fe ar t ha t d u ri ng t h e ir ab se nc e our p r e y
,

m igh t s n e ak away for a t ig e r e sp e cially a man e a t e r

, ,
-
,

i s mo s t cu nn ing and will crawl away u n s e e n i n a m o s t

,

m arv e llou s mann e r A t la s t t h e p a l e ! (h e ad man ) of

.

t h e n e ar e s t v illag e a pp e ar e d wi t h abou t t w e n t y m e n ,

fi v e o f t h e m carryi ng t o m t om s an d t w o e no/e r a horn s -

, .

N o t i m e w a s l o s t i n arrangi ng t h e m and a t a giv e n ,

s ignal t h e mo s t di s cordan t noi se s bu r s t for t h F or a .

p pro e r b e a t w e ough t t o hav e a t l e a s t fift y m e n ; b u t

,

w e had t o do t h e b e s t w e could wi t h t h e fe w a t ou r
co mmand I had arm e d t h e s h ik a r i e s o n e wi t h my
.
,

t w e lv e bor e ri fl e and t h e o t h e r w i t h my s moo t h bor e

-
,
-
,

w h ich b e i ng cyl i ndrical carri e d ball fai rl y w e ll wh il s t

, , ,

I my se l f r e t ai n e d my p e t 5 7 7 e x p r e ss T h e b e a t d id .

n o t la s t long and e nd e d wi t hou t a S ign of t h e t ig e r

,

h avi ng b e e n s e e n I g o t down and wal k e d i n t o t h e

.
,

t h ick e t and car e fully e xami n e d i t

,
S ur e e nough u nd e r .
,

a bu s h t h e r e w a s t h e i m p r e ss ion of a b e a s t havi ng
,

r e cl i n e d — t h e gra s s w a s p r e s se d fla t ; b u t t h e re w a s
n o t t h e gho s t of a S ign how i t had e s ca e d
p .
2
56 RE M IN I S CE N CES OF I N D IA

t h rough t h e fou r o r fi v e m il e s o f for e s t and j ungl e

w h ich lay b e t w e e n t h e i r v illag e and my cam p du ring

t h e i r e xc i t e m e n t i n t h e m iddl e o f t h e n igh t t h e y w e r e ,

afraid t o s t ar t back e v e n i n m y com p any b e for e day

, ,

l igh t W e had no d i ffi cul t y i n t rac i ng t h e un for t una t e

.

man and w e foun d h is r e mai n s w i t h i n a m il e of wh e r e

,

h e had b e e n se iz e d and carri e d off T h e t ig e r aft e r

.
,

s n e aking away d u ri ng ou r hun t for h im mu s t hav e lai n ,

i n wai t i n a s mall clum p of bu s h e s w i t h i n a cou p l e o f

hu ndr e d yard s o f t h e v illag e a n d r e v e ng e d h i m s e l f o n
,

t h e l e ad e r of t h e gang wh ich had a t t e m p t e d t o h e l p u s

t o d e s t roy h im T h e r e mai n s of t h e villag e offic ial

.

w e r e r e mov e d t o b e cr e ma t e d and w e t ook u p t h e,

ug s and follow e d t h e m a s far a s a n e ighbou ri ng t ank

p , ,

wh e r e t h e t ig e r had s lak e d h i s t h i r s t and o n t o t h e ,

s ki r t s of t h e j ungl e b e yond ; b u t t h e r e all t rac e s w e r e

‘

lo s t T h e sh i k a r ie s and p e o p l e w e r e of o p i n ion t ha t
.

h e woul d now go fur t h e r i nland and advi s e d m e ,

t o mov e m y cam p t o a v illag e call e d S e t t a p il l y and ,

t h e r e wai t fur t h e r e v e n t s .S e ndi ng ord e r s for m y

o l t o mov e as ro o se d I s e arch e d abou t t h
p pe e p p , e

j ungl e wi t h E l a p a h s hoo t ing a s p o t t e d d e e r a cou p l e

, ,

of j ungl e fowl and a p e acock wi t h a t ail clo se o n s i x

-
,

fe e t lo ng and g o t t o S e t t a p ill y lo n g b e for e t h e arrival

,

of my t ra p s .

I n t h e e v e n ing I s a t i n a m a r t (a c ircular p i t ) clo se

t o t h e e dg e of a s mall t ank and s ho t s e v e ral s and
,

grou se wh e n t h e y cam e for t h e i r e v e n ing d ri nk b u t ,

r e t i r e d t o my t e n t a t dark and w e n t t o b e d e arly

, .

T h e n igh t p a ss e d qu i e t l y e nough a n d moun t i ng m y , ,

p ony a t dayl igh t I w e n t off t o a j ungl e

,
di s t an t abou t ,

e igh t m il e s t ryi ng fo r s ambu r b u t had no l uck and

, , ,
 T HE M A N EA T E R
-
AT WO R K 2
57

g ot back at t w e lv e I w a s lying down o n m y c o t

.

’
r e adi ng t h e la s t F i e /a wh e n my boy t ol d m e t h e r e
,

w e r e s om e Villag e r s who wi sh e d t o se e m e M y t e nt .

w a s p i t ch e d u nd e r a s p l e n d i d t amari nd t r e e and I w a s -
,

s oo n ou t s id e se a t e d o n a cam s t ool and l i s t e n i ng t o

p
-
, ,

t h e i r t al e . T h e y cam e fro m a villag e abou t t h re e

m il e s t o t h e nor t h of my la s t cam p t o r e p or t t ha t a ,

gi rl who w a s coll e c t ing fi r e wood had b e e n s e iz e d and

’
carri e d off by a t ig e r a t e igh t o clock t ha t morn ing .

Wha t t o do I kn e w n o t T h e bru t e s e ldom r e t u rn e d

.

t o a kill h e p r e fe rr e d fr e s h m e a t and w a s h e r e t h e r e
, , ,

and e v e rywh e r e I f I w e n t back h e would p robabl y

.
,

kill som e on e a t o r n e ar S e t t a p i l l y a n d I should hav e ,

.

t o t ram p back I f I s t o pp e d wh ere I w a s I m igh t

.
,

lo se a chanc e of a s ho t ; b u t aft e r d u e con s id e ra t ion

, ,

I cam e t o t h e co nclu s io n t ha t t h e day w a s t o o far

advanc e d for m e t o go t o s uch a d i st anc e and t ha t I ,

had b e t t e r r e mai n wh e r e I w a s i n t h e ho p e of h e ari ng

of t h e b e a st a t clo se r quar t e rs O n fur t h e r c ro ss .

qu e st io ni ng I a sc e r t ai n e d t ha t t h e body of t h e gi rl
,

had b e e n r e cov e r e d and r e mov e d and a s i t had b e e n , ,

u n t ouch e d i t se e m e d a s i f t h e p oor we nch had b e e n

,

kill e d mor e o u t of d e vil ry t han fo r t h e p ur p o se of

s a t i s fying th e cravi ng s of h ung e r T h e m e n w e n t .

back m u ch di ssa t i sfi e d b e cau se I would n o t accom p any

t h e m a s t h e y s aid t h e y had se n t t o all t h e n e ighbourin g
,

V illag e s for cool i e s t o coll e c t for b e a t i ng t h e j ungl e

wh e r e t h e man e a t e r w a s s u pp o se d t o b e ; b u t I t old
-

t h e m t o hav e p a t i e nc e and I would rid t h e m o f t h e i r

,

e n e my ,
i f I d e vo t e d t h e whol e of my l e av e for t ha t
p pu r o se .

I amu se d my se l f s hoo t i ng s mall gam e and for t w o ,

I 7
2 58 RE M I N I SCE N C ES OF I N D IA
d ay s I h e ard no t h i ng of t h e man e a t e r and w a s t h i nki ng -
,

of m ovi ng on wh e n i t w a s r e p or t e d t ha t t w o p e o p l e
,

had b e e n kill e d far a p ar t b u t only abou t four m il e s

,

from m y cam p Wha t w a s I t o t h i nk ? W e r e t h e r e

.

t w o t ig e r s p r e yi ng o n man or could t h e s am e an imal ,

hav e slai n t w o m e n t w o o r t h r e e m il e s a p ar t w i t h i n an
h our or t w o ? I w a s s oon on m y p ony i nv e st iga t i ng
t h e cau s e of d e a t h W e found t h e fir st body almo st
.

i n t ac t o nly a mou t h ful or s o havi ng b e e n t ak e n o u t of

,

t h e bu t t ock ; b u t t h i s w a s accoun t e d for by t h e b e a s t

havi ng b e e n di s t urb e d by a p ar t y of t rav e ll e r s W e .

t h e n w e n t t o t h e se cond kill and fou n d i t had b e e n ,

d ragg e d i n t o t h e j ungl e a n d n e arly d e mol i s h e d

, We .

t rac e d t h e fe l l d e s t roy e r a long way b u t e v e n t ually ,

l o st al l t rac e s and r e t urn e d t o cam p fully co nv i nc e d

, ,

t ha t bo t h m e n had b e e n d e s t roy e d by t h e s am e b e a s t .

AS I did n o t t h i nk t h e t ig e r would r e mai n i n t ha t

n e ighbourhood aft e r kill i ng t w o m e n t h e r e and aft e r .
,

s uch a h e avy m e al I t hough t h e would l i e u p n e ar e r

,

wa t e r so I m ov e d fur t h e r i nland t o a s mal l grou p o f

,

h u t s Th e y coul d s carc e ly b e sai d t o form a V illag e

.
,

and i t s nam e i f i t had o n e I hav e forgo t t e n ; b u t t h e

, ,

cam p i ng groun d w a s good and t h e r e w a s a s mall t an k

-
,

i n t h e j ungl e wh ich w a s h e avy abou t t h r e e m il e s off

, , ,

wh e r e i t w a s s aid t ig e r s b e ar s a nd d e e r cam e t o dri nk

, ,

a t n igh t . S o I t hough t I would t ak e m y chanc e of

g e t t i ng a S ho t a t s om e t h i ng or o t h e r wh il st wai t ing for
n e w s of t h e man e a t e r o r p e rchanc e t h e b e a st i t se l f
-
,

m igh t p u t i n an app e aranc e .

I had a p i t con s t ruc t e d and w e n t down t o i t abou t

,

an hour b e for e s u n se t I n r e mo t e and i s ola t e d p lac e s

. .

e s e cially wh e r e t h e r e i s a s carci t y of wa t e r wild b e a s t s

p ,
2 60 RE M I N I SCE N C ES OF INDIA

al mo s t i ndi s t ingu i sh abl e a sou nd e r of p ig cam e d own

, ,

and wh il st s om e wallow e d i n a S hallow and m i ry p ar t

o f t h e t an k o t h e r s dug u p roo t s w i t h t h e i r s no u t s al ong
,

t h e margin and k e p t u p a con s t an t grun t i ng and s qu e al

,

i ng I w a s s orry an d a t t h e sam e t i m e glad t o h e ar

.
, ,

t h e di n t h e y c r e a e d t — s orry b e cau se i t show e d t ha t

,

t h e y w e r e i n t h e hab i t of fe e ding t h e r e u ndi s t urb e d and

u nmol e s t e d by e i t h e r t ig e rs or l e o p ard s and o n se cond ,

t hough t glad b e cau se t h e i r grun t ing m igh t a t t rac t

,

som e m idn igh t maraud e r .

T h e moon ro se abou t half p a st se v e n and i t w a s -

,

onl y a day o r t w o p a s t t h e fu ll At fir s t t h e shadow s .

ca st by i t s s lan t ing ray s d e e p e n e d t h e gloom b u t a s ,

i t g o t h igh e r t h e s e gradually fad e d away and abou t ,

t e n I coul d hav e alm o st r e ad a book by i t s l igh t .

T h e r e w a s n o t a cloud abou t ; y e t i t i s al mo st i m
o ss ibl e t o d i s t ingu i s h t h e for e s igh t o f a ri fl by
p
-
e

m oo nl igh t . I had t ri e d many dodg e s t o ov e rcom e

t h i s di fficul t y b u t non e had an s w e r e d
,
I w a s now .
,

for t h e fi rs t t i m e t rying l umi nou s p ai n t and con

, ,

gra t ula t e d m y se l f o n t h e r e s ul t for I w a s e nabl e d t o

,

cov e r se v e ral of t h e p ig s a s t h e y wand e r e d abou t s om e ,

t i m e s com ing wi t h i n a yard or t w o of my 1 12222 and a t ,

o t h e rs di sa pp e ari ng i n t h e far di s t anc e A bou t t w e l v e .

I wrapp e d my se lf u p i n my é n zn é/i e (na t iv e blank e t ) ,

bad e t h e sh ik a r ie k e e p a brigh t look o u t and wi t h a -

, ,

clod of e ar t h for a p illow I w a s s oon fa st a s l e e p B u t

, .

s u ch s lumb e r i s alway s fi t fu l mo squi t o e s r e v e l on t h e

s l e e e r and t h e i r buzz i ng i s far mor e i rri t a t i ng t o o n e
p ,

t han t h e ir bi t e Y ou dar e n o t mak e a noi se by s lap p ing

.

a t t he m t h e p i t i s b u t s hallow and any s udd e n mov e

,

m e n t of arm o r body m igh t r e v e al your p r e se nc e t o

 A B EAR 261

s om e b e a s t hov e ri ng abou t t h e ou t s ki r t s o f t h e su r
round i ng j ungl e ; for b e for e v e n t uri ng i n t o t h e o p e n ,

e v e ry an i mal s can s t h e s ac e i n fron t car e fully and

p ,

t h e l e a s t n oi s e o r mov e m e n t o n t h e p ar t of t h e hun t e r

would frigh t e n i t away T ho se who l iv e i n t h e j ungl e s

.
,

and a r e gi v e n t o sp o r t s l e e p b u t l igh t l y and t h e

, ,

mom e n t t h e y a r e awak e n e d t h e y a r e on t h e al e r t and ,

hav e t h e i r w i t s abou t t h e m Th e re i s no y a wn i ng o r
.

s t r e t chi ng o f l i mb s a s t h e e y e s o e n t h e hand s il e n t l y
p
gra sp s t h e ri fl e t h e body i s car e fully rai se d and t h e
, ,

hu n t e r who w a s u ncon s ciou s b u t a mom e n t b e for e i s

, ,

wid e awak e now and r e ady for ac t ion .

A bou t t h r e e o cloc k R am iah t ouch e d m e and j u s t

’

t h e n t h e moo n w a s s om e w ha t ob s cur e d by a p a ss i ng

cloud ; b u t p e e ring abou t I sa w a b e ar s om e way off

, ,

t oo far for a c e r t ai n s ho t a t n igh t s o I wai t e d my t im e ,

.

A ft e r d ri nki ng h e com m e nc e d t o t urn u p wi t h h i s p aw s

,

clod s of e ar t h and t h e fe w s t on e s s ca t e r e d abou i n

t t —
s e arch of b e e t l e s I b e l i e v e
,
T o my l e ft t h e r e w a s a
.

wh i t e an t s n e s t wh i ch a t t rac t e d t h e a t t e n t ion of t h e
-
’

b e ar h e S hambl e d t oward s i t u t t e ri ng a p e cul iar cry a s

,

h e d id s o and soo n h e w a s j oi n e d by a comrad e

,
The .

t w o b e t w e e n t h e m s oon b e gan t o d e mol i s h t h e con e

to e t a t t h e n e s t con t ain i ng t h e larv ae wh ich I kn e w

g ,

i t would t ak e t h e m s om e t i m e t o g e t a t for i t i s alway s ,

a t t h e v e ry ba s e of t h e a n t h ill i n a s e ri e s of c e ll s and
-
,

al t hough t h e n e wly bu il t p o r t ion i s e a s il y c rumbl e d

-

away t h e old e r g e t s bak e d by t h e su n and i s a s hard

, ,

t o br e ak t h rough a s a brick wall Th e r e w a s no hurry

.
,

t h e b e ar s w e r e n o t l i k e l y t o l e av e u n t il t h e y had ot a t
g
t h e h idd e n d e li cac i e s and t e ll i ng t h e man t o wak e m e
, ,

again I t urn e d rou nd and s hould hav e b e e n a sl e e p i n

, ,
2 62 R E M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

ano t h e r m om e n t b u t for a t ouch from my a t t e ndan t .

L ooki ng u p I sa w h i m i n t e n t ly gazing i n a d i r e c
,

t ion diam e t rically o p p o s i t e t o wh e r e t h e b e ar s w e r e a t

work At fir st I could di st i ngu i sh no t h i ng I fla t t e r

. .

my se lf I hav e v e ry good e y e s igh t b u t na t iv e s a r e ,

p h e nom e nall y acu t e i n t h e i r v i s ion and al t hough i n ,

broad dayl igh t I would n o t hav e own e d much i n

fe r i o r i t y y e t a t nigh t I w a s nowh e r e i n com p ari s on
, ,

so i t t ook m e s om e l i t t l e t i m e t o di s t i ngu i s h wha t h e

w a s s t aring a t T h e t w o bru in s s t ill con t i nu e d t h e i r

.

work of d e s t ruc t ion ; t h e sh i k a r i e b e n t h is h e ad t oward s

‘
m y e a r and wh i s pe r e d Bagh ! (t ig e r ) I S il e n t ly
,
’

cock e d bo t h barr e l s ho p ing an d p rayi ng i t m igh t b e t h e

,

man e a t e r and afraid t o br e a t h e al mo s t t h e n e x t fe w

-
,

m om e n t s s e e m e d an e t e rn i t y t h e y app e ar e d t o pa ss ,

s o s lowly .

I ha t e su sp e n se and i f i t i s co n t i nu e d any t im e I
,

e t qu i t e n e rvou s t h rough e xci t e m e n t I f t h i s had b e e n

g .

an ordi nary t ig e r I S hould n o t hav e b e e n so anxio u s ,

b u t — why I do n o t know — I j u m p e d a t t h e concl u s io n

,

t ha t i t mu s t b e t h e man e a t e r and w a s doubly an xiou s

-
,

t o slay h i m I had b e e n l ucky e nough t o kill ov e r

.

t w o s cor e of t ig e r s b u t v e ry fe w giv e n t o hom icidal

,

p pro e nsi t i e s .

I n l e ss t han fi v e m i nu t e s wh ich I could hav e s worn

,

w e r e an hou r I sa w t h e ou t l i n e of a magn i fic e n t t ig e r
,

s t e al t hil y cr e e p i ng along t oward s t h e wa t e r The

b e ar s mu s t h av e s c e n t e d h i m —t h e y could n o t hav e
.

se e n h i m for t h e i r bodi e s w e r e hal f b u ri e d i n t h e

,

c e n t r e o f t h e a n t h ill ; I could h e ar t h e m s ucking i n

-

t h e s uccul e n t mor s e l s and la pp i ng u p t h e an t s e gg s

’

wi t h t h e i r long t ongu e s S udd e nl y t h e y d e s i st e d and

.
, ,
2 64 R EM I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

fo r for I fou nd o n e of t h e fl ap s of t h e back s igh t had

,

acc id e n t ally b e e n rai se d .

T h e t ig e r s moan s groan s and roar s w e r e dr e adful

’

, ,

and i nc e ss an t and I w a s onl y t oo glad wh e n I coul d

,

se e s uffic i e n t l y d i s t i nc t l y t o
p ut a ball t h rough h i s

h e ad .

R am iah and I wi t h gr e a t diffi cul t y manag e d t o drag

h i m o u t o f t h e wa t e r and aft e r wa sh i ng o ff t h e mud
,

wh ich clung t o h i m w e found t ha t h e had a mo st ,

l ov e l y coa t and w a s a b e a s t of t h e larg e s t s i z e

, .

A bou t hal f p a st s i x my syc e wi t h t h e p ony and hal f

-
,

a doz e n villag e r s t urn e d u p I t old t h e m t ha t I had

, .

a t la st d e s t roy e d t h e man e a t e r b u t o n e xam i ni n g t h e

-
,

d e fu nc t an imal o n e of t h e villag e r s s hook h i s h e ad

,

and said T ha t s ah ib i s n o t t h e n a i n e —
, , é /za n a w a Z/a n ’
- -

[ man e at e r
-

] t h i s i s far t o o larg e and h e h a s e v id e n t ly ,

b e e n fe e d i ng o n a s ambu r for h e r e a r e s om e of t h e ,

hai rs s t icking t o h i s m ou t h b u t t h e man e a t e r k ills ,

-

’
and e a t s o nl y u s .

O n cu t t ing o p e n t h e b e a s t t o e nabl e u s t o r e mov e

t h e body mor e e a s ily w e fou nd i n s id e h i m p i e c e s o f fr e s h
,

v e n i so n w i t h t h e h id e adh e ring p roving t ha t h e had ,

b u t la t e ly k ill e d and e a t e n a d e e r A ny t ig e r i s b e t t e r .

t han non e ,
and I st ill ho p e d agai n st ho p e t ha t t h i s
m igh t y e t p rov e t h e b e a st I had b e e n aft e r all t h e se
day s B u t I w a s s oon convi nc e d s uch w a s n o t t h e
.

ca se for t ha t v e ry aft e rnoon a s I w a s s u p e ri n t e ndi ng

, ,

t h e p e gging o u t and cu ri ng of t h e s ki n by havi ng a sh e s

o f burn t bamboo s w e ll rubb e d i n t o i t fou r m e n from ,

An a n t e e p o r e di s t an t fully fi ft e e n m il e s o ff cam e r e
, ,

p or t i ng t ha t a t fi v e o clock t ha t mo rn i ng a t a
pp a l
r u n n er
(p o s t man
) had b e e n carri e d off by a t ig e r I t .
 THE M AN -
EA T E R A G A I N 2 65

was vid e n t t h e b ru t e k e p t n e ar t h e riv e r and n e v e r

e ,

wand e r e d far i nland so l e avi ng E l a p a h who had j u s t

, ,

r e t u rn e d wi t hou t any n e w s of i m p or t anc e and t w o ,

m e n i n charg e of t h e t ig e r s s ki n and forbiddi ng t h e m

’

t o allow t h e wh i s k e r s t o b e burn t or s ing e d off a s ,

na t i v e s a r e so fond of doi ng I t ook a s hor t c u t an d , ,

o t back t o my form e r e ncam m e n t a t du sk Th e re

g p .

w a s n o n e w s n e x t day and a s t h e b e a s t s e ldom kill e d

,

t wi c e ru nn ing i n t h e sam e local i t y I m ov e d back t o ,

Ch o t a m u n d r y .

The n e x t d a y I w a s t old t h e t ig e r had a t t e m pt e d t o

carry o ff a h e rd s man t e ndi ng buffalo e s on t h e sand s of
t h e G o d a v e r y b u t had b e e n driv e n off by t h e ca t t l e
, ,

wh o had charg e d and cha se d h i m for a con sid e rabl e

di st anc e . F o r t w o mor e day s w e h e ard no t h i ng of
h i m Th e n i t w a s r e p or t e d h e had kill e d a boy s o m e
.

s e v e n m il e s s ou t h and had b e e n t r a c e d and s urro u nd e d

, .

I lo s t no t i m e you may b e s ur e and i n a cou p l e of

, ,

hours I w a s i n a n ea c é a n fi and fi ft y m e n i n a l i n e b e a t
f

i ng t oward s m e T h e y form e d a hal f moon and I

.
,

sa w no m e an s by wh ich t h e b e a st could g e t away

w i t hou t e x p o s i ng h i m se l f ; b u t I w a s n o t half a c
u a i n t e d wi t h t h e r e s ourc e s o f t h e an i mal I w a s aft e r
q .

T h e v e ry t h ick e t h e w a s i n w a s known ; t h e p e o p l e
w e r e e xa sp e ra t e d had coll e c t e d i n gre a t fo rc e fro m
,

e v e ry villag e wi t h i n a radi u s of t w e n t y m il e s and a s ,

t h e y k e pt w e l l t og e t h e r t h e di n t h e y mad e wi t h
,

s hou t i ng and y e ll ing and b e a t i ng t o m t om s and blow

,
-

i ng chol e ra ho rn s w a s t e rrific I had m y e y e s o n t h e

, .

t h ick e t . I w a s n o t t w e n t y yard s o ff i t w i t h my ri fl e ,

o n full cock e x p e c t i ng e v e ry m om e n t t ha t t h e quarry

,

P l a t fo m b i l t o a t e e
r u n r .
2 66 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I ND IA

would br e ak T h e l i n e w a s wi t h i n for t y t h e n t h ir t y
.
, ,

t h e n t w e n t y yard s y e t n o t a mov e m e n t b e t ray e d t ha t

t h e r e w a s any l ivi ng t h ing wi t h i n t h e bu sh e s The .

cool i e s hal t e d for a mom e n t r e doubl ing t h e i r diabol ical ,

no i se s and t h e n t h i nking t ha t p e rha p s t h e b e a st had

, ,

d e cam p e d wi t h a s udd e n i m p ul se and i n a com p ac t

, ,

body clo se t og e t h e r al mo st t ouch ing t h e y ru sh e d a t

, , ,

t h e sp o t t o wh ich h e had b e e n t rac e d Wh e n t h e y .

w e r e al mo s t i n t o i t t h e r e w a s a roar a s t ri p e d body
, ,

s rang a t t h e n e ar e st man and i n s ite of a h e avy

p p ,

bl ow fro m h is v ic t i m and num e rou s whack s fro m t h e ,

h e avy [ a l l i e s carri e d by t h e m e n n e ar e st a t hand h e ,

bor e t h e man t o t h e grou nd gav e h i m o n e dre adful ,

c runch wh ich n e arly s ick e n e d m e and t h e n di s

, ,

a pp e ar e d .

I w a s h e l p l e ss I could n o t fi r e for t h e m e n
.
,

cl u st e re d al mo st rou nd t h e b e a s t i n t h e i r e xc i t e m e n t ,

and t h e man e a t e r of Ch o t a m u n d r y had agai n e s ca p e d

-
.

O n e woul d i magin e t ha t aft e r h i s narrow e s cap e t h e

bru t e would hav e b e e n qui e t for a fe w d ay s or hav e ,

gon e far away b u t t h e v e ry n e x t day h e kill e d a man

,
.

I w a s o u t aft e r o t h e r gam e and w a s n o t far from wh e re ,

th e murd e r t ook p lac e and a s t h e body had b e e n ,

u n t ouch e d I p e r s uad e d t h e v illag e r s t o l e t i t r e mai n

, ,

and sa t ov e r i t T h e man k ill e d did n o t b e long t o

.

t ha t v illag e o t h e rwi se t h e y woul d n o t hav e giv e n t h e

,

r e qu i s i t e p e rm i ss ion for t h e se m e n gr e a t ly di sl i ki ng
, ,

anyon e u s i ng a d e ad body a s a l ure alway s r e mov e ,

i t a t onc e and burn i t H ow e v e r t h e man e at e r d id

.
,
-

n ot u t i n ano t h e r a p p e aranc e h e r e b u t kill e d a woman

p ,

n e ar t h e ri v e r ban k s om e t w o m il e s h igh e r u p I had .

t ri e d t o c ircumv e n t h i m i n e v e ry way for t h e p a s t t e n

2 68 RE M IN I SCE N CES OF . IN D I A

dry wa t e rcou r se of wh ich t h e r e w e r e v e ry man y abou t

, .

S o al t hough I ran along s om e way I fail e d t o fi nd a

, ,
.

t rail b u t j u s t ah e ad of m e I sa w a h e rd of buffalo e s ,

h e ad e d by a v e ry larg e bull T h e t ig e r w a s n o t l ik e l y .

t o hav e go n e t oward s t h e m for t h e se an imal s wh e n , ,

t og e th e r a c t i n conc e r t and do n o t fe ar a t ig e r
, , .

I g o t hold o f t h e g i t/a l a s (h e rd s m e n ) and p rom i se d

( ,

t h e m 2 0 ru p e e s i f t h e y would driv e t h e i r h e rd a s I s houl d

i ndica t e T h e m e n t ook t h e ca t t l e righ t acro ss t h e

.

p lac e w h e r e t h e girl s body had lain and no soon e r di d

’

t h e bull s m e ll t h e blood and t h e s c e n t of t h e t ig e r t han ,

w i t h a b e llow low e ri ng h i s h e ad h e gallo p e d forward

, , ,

follow e d by t h e cow s and young bull s t racing t h e sc e n t ,

much a s a p ack of dog s m igh t hav e don e I ran m y .

b e st ho p i ng t o g e t a s ho t b u t t h e grou nd w a s cov e r e d
, ,

w i t h t rail i ng v in e s ov e r wh ich I k e p t s t umbl i ng and

, ,

fi nally cam e a cro pp e r B y t h e t i m e I g o t o n t o my .

fe e t agai n t h e buffalo e s had ov e r t ak e n t h e t ig e r ; t h e

,

bull ru sh e d a t h i m and I sa w a bri ndl e d ma ss t hrown

,

h igh u p I t had bar e ly r e ach e d t h e e ar t h agai n wh e n

.
,

i t w a s agai n s e n t flying T h e t ig e r roar e d claw e d .

, ,

and b i t b u t h e had full y t w e n t y b e a s t s o n h i m I coul d

,

n ot u t i n a s ho t ; i f I had ru sh e d i n amid s t t h e i n
p
fu r i a t e d h e rd I s t ood mor e t han a chanc e o f b e i ng
,

hoi s t e d my se lf T h e ca t t l e form e d a p halanx round

.

t h e t ig e r and W ha t w i t h t o ss ing p roddi ng and kn e ad

, , ,

i ng t h e y s oon d e p ri v e d t h e s courg e o f t h e coun t ry of

,

i t s l ife T h e bu ffalo e s w e r e i n s uch a st a t e of e xci t e

.

m e n t t ha t e v e n t h e i r a t t e ndan t s h e s i t a t e d t o go i n t o
dri v e t h e m off t h e bull i n p ar t icular would n o t l e av e
h i s p r e y : wh e n dri v e n off h e woul d ma k e a dé t our , ,

r e t urn t o t h e charg e wi t h e y e s flari ng almo st o u t of,

 2 76 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF INDIA

t h e y would b e l e ss afrai d of t ig e r s wh e n h e rding

t h e i r ca t t l e I r e mai n e d t h r e e day s l o ng e r ; b u t co n
.

fi d e n c e had b e e n r e s t or e d t h e p e o p l e w e n t abou t a s
,

u sual no m or e d e a t h s t ook p lac e s o fe e l i ng s u re t ha t

, , ,

t h e dr e ad e d man e a t e r w a s no mor e -
I r e s um e d m y ,

j ou rn e y t oward s t h e h ill y d i st ri c t of B u st a r .

T h e road n o t o f t h e b e s t and o u t o f r e p ai r w a s
, , ,

a ss abl e for cou n t ry car t s a s far as D u m m a e t Th r

p p e e .

I s houl d hav e t o hi r e p ack bullock s t o carry my good s .

I w a s t old t h e r e w e r e g e n e rally B r i n j a r i e s t h e r e wh o
would l e t o u t ca t t l e and accom p any m e wh e re v e r I
w i sh e d t o go I w a s n o t far from T a ll a p u di and by
.
,

maki ng a forc e d march I g o t t o G o l p a lp u r a n la t e n e x t

da y . I n t h e e v e n i ng I V i s i t e d a t ank and bagg e d ,

s u ffi ci e n t rock p ig e o n s a n d s and grou se

-
for t h e p o t
-
.

Th e r e w e r e num e rou s t rac e s of sp o t t e d d e e r and p ig

abou t
S t ar t i ng t w o hour s b e for e dayl igh t I g o t t o K o y e l a ,

gud e m e igh t m il e s s oon aft e r 7 a m and u nd e r t h e

, ,
. .
, ,

guidanc e o f a local sh i k a r i e s cour e d t h e j u ngl e s for t h e

,

gr e a t e r p ar t of t h e morn i ng b u t sa w no t h ing wor t h

,

S hoo t i ng D uri ng t h e h e at of t h e day I r e st e d u nd e r

.

t h e gra t e ful s had e o f a banyan t r e e o n t h e ban k of t h e

-
,

B ayana R i v e r and i n i t s wa t e r s I manag e d t o cool a

,

bo t t l e of B a ss A ft e r t h e m id day lu nch I t ook a n a p

.
-
,

and abou t t h r e e w e s e t o u t agai n k e e p i ng for s om e ,

t i m e along t h e ban k s o f t h e ri v e r wh e r e t o my s u r , ,

p ri se I,
s a w t h e t w o vari e t i e s o f I nd ian j ungl e fowl
-

G a l /a s S on n e r a l i and f e r r ng i n e n s t h e la t t e r b e i ng ,

t h e bi rd s o commo n t h ro u gh ou t I ndia B u rma and , ,

A ssam ; t h e form e r fou nd oft e n e r i n M y s or e and

S ou t h w e s t e rn I ndia I woul d n o t t h e n fi r e a t t h e se
-
.
 S PO TT E D D EER 2 71

b e au t i e s al t hough I d id wan t t o coll e c t t h e hackl e s of

,

s om e o f t h e m b e cau s e I s a w t h e r e w e r e s o t t e d d e e r
, p
abou t and m e a t w a s badl y wan t e d A ft e r following
, .

t h e s t r e am for t w o or t h r e e m il e s t h e man l e d m e away,

fro m i t t h rough h e avy j ungl e and e v e n t uall y brough t

, ,

m e t o an o p e n glad e and bid m e b e v e ry wary a s i t

, ,

w a s a c e r t ai n fi n d for t h e s p e ckl e d b e au t i e s .

A ft e r s e arch i ng abou t car e fully a t la st I e sp i e d t h e ,

t i p s o f a fi n e p ai r o f a n t l e r s t hough no p ar t of t h e i r
'

own e r w a s vi s ibl e b u t fro m t h e p o s i t ion of t h e horn s

, ,

t h e an i mal mu s t hav e b e e n s t ari ng i n m y di r e c t ion .

K nowi ng t ha t I h ad b e e n di s cov e r e d I did n o t a t t e m p t ,

t o g e t any n e ar e r — th e di s t anc e w a s p robably o n e

hu ndr e d and t w e n t y yard s T h e s t ag w a s s t andi ng
.

i n a p a t ch of gra ss s u rround e d by l ow j u ngl e and ,

b e t w e e n m e an d h i m t h e r e w e r e a l o t of st alk s t h rough
wh ich I s h ould hav e t o fi r e and I w a s m or e t han hal f
,

afraid t h a t b e for e r e ach ing t h e d e e r t h e b u ll e t woul d

, ,

S t ri k e so m e of t h e m and b e d e fl e c t e d Taki ng a
, .

care ful aim t w o and a hal f fe e t b e low t h e o nly mark

,

vi s ibl e I g e n t l y p r e sse d t h e t rigg e r I sa w t hr e e o r

, .

fou r st al k s fall a su nd e r b u t t h e d e e r n e v e r m ov e d
, I
qu ickly p u t i n t h e l e ft ; t h e e /z i l a l gav e a bound and
'

ran s t raigh t t oward s m e I r e load e d a s fa s t a s I could

.
,

b u t b e for e h e had gon e t w e n t y yard s h e comm e nc e d

t o r e ar and p l ung e s ur e s ign s O f a wound i n t h e l ung s
, ,

and i n l e s s t han t w o m i nu t e s roll e d ov e r d e ad .

T h e s h i k a r i e and I w e n t l e i s ur e ly t oward s h i m and ,

wh e n w i t h i n t w o yard s of h im I sa w t h e e y e s of a
p an t h e r wh ich w a s s t andi ng j u st b e yond t h e carca ss
, .

M y a t t e ndan t w a s s t oo p ing down and had n o t se e n i t , ,

s o h e w a s s t ar t l e d by my fi ring clo s e a st h i m and

p ,
2 72 RE M I N I SCE N CES OF I ND IA

gr e a t ly s urp ri se d t o find a S p l e ndid l e o p ard d e ad I .

had aim e d s t raigh t b e t w e e n t h e e y e s ; b u t t h e b e a st

w a s crouch ing h i s h e ad had b e e n low e r t han h i s
,

w i t h e r s t h e bull e t w e n t a t rifl e h igh caugh t h im i n

, ,

t h e s p i n e and dro pp e d h i m d e ad
, H e m e a s u re d se v e n .

fe e t t hr e e i nch e s W e had n o t t im e t o s ki n h i m s o
.
, ,

aft e r havi ng gralloch e d t h e t w o w e sl ung t h e m o n a ,

s t ou t bamboo and b e t w e e n u s carri e d t h e m by s hor t

,

cu t s t o t h e cam p wh e r e w e arriv e d a t , p m M y .

s h ould e r u nu s e d t o t h e e x e r t ion w a s n o t onl y s woll e n

, , ,

b u t w a s p e rfe c t ly raw ; wh il s t my a t t e ndan t a far ,

frail e r man t han my se l f and wi t h no cov e ri ng had n o t , ,

a mark t o S how .

I had t h e t w o b e a st s s kin n e d and t h e i r p e l t s p e gg e d .

o u t t o dry and d e t e rm i n e d t o hal t t h e r e for a day fo r

, ,

e v e ry bo n e i n my body ach e d from t h e u nu s ual e x

p e r ie n c e I had u nd e rgon e M y boy t i ed a

p lan t ai
. n
l e af ov e r t h e s or e a n d wh e n I awok e t h e n e x t morn i ng
, ,

I fe l t s o mu ch b e t t e r t ha t I con se n t e d t o v i s i t som e
h ill s abou t fi v e m il e s off wh e r e b e ars w e r e s aid t o b e ,

v e ry num e rou s T h e se b e a st s a r e noc t urnal fe e d e rs

.
,

r e t i r e t o t h e i r d e n s soon aft e r d aybr e ak and r e mai n ,

t h e r e s l e e p i ng t ill clo se on s un s e t wh e n t h e y sally ,

for t h agai n S o t aki ng i t e a sy I r e ad un t il 4 p m

.
, , . .
,

wh e n I se t o u t w i t h a local sh ik a r i e E l a p a h and ,
,

R am iah t og e t h e r w i t h a cou p l e of m e n t o a c t a s t orch

,

b e ar e rs fo r I kn e w w e s hould n o t b e back t ill long

,

aft e r dark .

R e ach i ng our d e st i na t io n hal f an hou r b e for e s un se t ,

w e car e fully S il e n t ly and quickly e xam i n e d t h e local i t y

, , ,

for w e had n o t im e t o sp ar e Th e r e w e r e many cav e s .

,

and j udgi ng by t h e mark s e v e ry o n e of t h e m w a s

, ,
2 74 R E M I N I SCE N C ES OF I N D IA

b e a st had g o t back wi t h i n s h e l t e r wh e r e t h e y con t i nu e d ,

t h e i r moan i ng and groan ing By t h i s t i m e i t w a s qu i t e

.

dark s o I gav e t h e cav e s a wid e b e r t h d e s c e nd e d t h e

, ,

h illock o n t h e o pp o s i t e S id e l i t t h e t orch e s and g o t , ,

hom e by 8 p m e x p e c t ing t o fi nd s e v e ral d e ad i n t h e

. .
,

m orn i ng .

I w a s u p agai n n e x t day a t 4 a m and o n t h e . .

,

rock s by and sa t t h e r e t ill p ast se v e n ; b u t w e

h e ard no noi se s nor did any b e ars a pp e ar W e t h e n
, .

d e s c e nd e d from ou r coign of van t ag e and car e fully ,

e xam i n e d th e grou nd T h e r e w a s p l e n t y of blood

.

s ca t t e r e d abou t b u t t h e whol e of t h e b e ar s had d e

,

p ar t e d Th
. i nki ng t h e r e mu s t b e s om e d e ad in s id e
t h e d e n s I had t h e m car e fu lly e xam i n e d b u t n o t o n e
, ,

d id w e fi nd H ow I mad e s uch a m e ss of t h i s affai r

.

h a s alway s b e e n a p uzzl e t o m e I w a s p e rfe c t ly cool .

,

i n a s afe p o s i t ion and w e ll arm e d ; y e t I fail e d aft e r

, ,

s om e fi ft e e n s ho t s i n bagging e v e n o n e b e ar o u t of
,

e igh t a t clo s e quar t e r s M y s h ould e r w a s s or e i t i s

.
,

t ru e ; b u t t ha t would n o t accoun t for s uch e x e c rabl e

s h oo t ing I t h e n w e n t back t o t h e ri v e r B ayana and

.
,

bagg e d t h r e e brac e o f G a l /a s S on n e r a l i and o n e of ,

t h e o t h e r vari e t y wh ich w e r e all car e fully s ki nn e d

,

wh e n I g o t back t o cam p .

T h e n e x t d a y w e s t ar t e d a t dayl igh t T h e road .

w a s s o bad w e could n o t g e t u nd e r way e arl i e r ; b u t

w e r e ach e d J a n g a m r e ddig u d u m a t 9 a m bre akfa s t e d . .

,

and r e s t e d und e r shad e t ill 2 p m w h e n w e i n sp an n e d . .

,

agai n and g o t t o R a n t a g u d u m n i n e m il e s a l i t t l e
, , ,

b e for e su n se t Th i s w a s t h e la s t hal t i ng s t ag e wi t h i n
.
-

ou r t e rri t ory ; t h e n e x t march would t ak e u s i n t o t h e

dom i n ion s of h i s H ighn e ss t h e N izam .
 B R I N J AR I E S 2 75

By st ar t i ngarl y and making a forc e d march w e

e , ,

o t t o D u m m a p e t a t t w e l v e — a good s iz e d p lac e wi th
g
-
,

p l e n t y of s u pp l i e s availabl e H e re I had t o di s mi ss
.

t h e car t s and t o e ngag e bullock s

, I found t h e h e ad .

man v e ry c iv il and o n no t i fyi ng t o h i m my wan t s h e

, ,

p rom i se d t o
p rocur e all I r e qui r e d A bou t fou r h e .

r e t urn e d wi t h fi v e o r s ix B r i n j a r i e s who agr e e d t o ,

accom p any m e wh e r e v e r I cho se t o go for s i x w e e k s

, , .

Th e y d e mand e d e igh t ru p e e s a mon t h for e ach bullock ,

and for t h e m s e l v e s four m e n fift e e n ru p e e s e ach and

, , ,

I w a s t o gi v e t h e m all s u rp l u s m e a t n o t r e qu ir e d for
t h e u se of my se lf and se rvan t s and p e rm i ss ion t o hun t ,

if w e ran s h or t .

T h e se m e n a r e all i e d t o t h e gi p s i e s B e for e t h e .

i n t roduc t ion of railway s t h e y w e r e t h e p ri nci p al carri e r s

,

t h roughou t t h e l e ng t h and br e ad t h of t h e land an d ,

hav e b e e n and a r e s t ill no t e d for t h e i r hon e s t y and

, ,

t ru st wor t h in e s s Th e i r occu p a t ion is gon e t o a gr e a t

.
,

e x t e n t ; b u t e v e n now i n m or e r e mo t e p lac e s wh e r e
,

t h e i ron hor se h a s n o t p e n e t ra t e d t h e m e rchan t s would ,

far e badl y w e r e i t n o t for t h e se u se ful p e o p l e T h e .

m e n a r e a s t u rdy rac e I n com p ari so n w i t h t h e i r

.

wom e n t h e y a r e al mo st u gl y B u t t h e fe mal e s of
, .

t h e se nomad s a r e p robabl y t h e mo s t com e ly and w e ll

mad e of t h e I ndian rac e s ; a s a rul e wh e n young , ,

t h e y a r e u n rivall e d i n fo rm and fe a t u r e s B u t for t h e i r

'

du s ky com p l e xion s many would b e r e ckon e d b e au t i e s

,

i n e i t h e r E uro p e o r A m e rica Wond e rfully w e ll mad e .

a s a r e t h e H i ndoo M u ssu l m a n i e and B urm e se wom e n

, ,

t h e B r i nj a r ie wh e n young s urp a ss t h e m i f t ha t b e
, , ,

p o ss ibl e. M or e ov e r t h e s e wom e n r e mai n cha st e i n a

,

cou n t ry wh e r e mo st of t h e i r se x a r e frail T h e gr e a t .
2 76 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I N DI A

drawback t o t h e m i s t ha t wh e r e a s t h e B urm e se wom e n

,

a r e s u e rla t i v e ly cl e anl y i n t h e i r e r s on s a s t h e H indoo s

p p ,

a r e al s o i n a s l igh t ly l e ss d e gr e e t h e s e gi p s i e s wh e n
, ,

marri e d do n o t follo w t h e e xam p l e se t t h e m by t h e i r

,

A rian s i st e r s A you ng gi rl may b e cl e anly e nough ;

.

b u t wh e n s h e marri e s sh e don s h e r bridal rai m e n t and

l iv e s i n i t day and n igh t u n t il i t no lo ng e r s uffic e s for
p pur o se s of d e c e ncy S h e t h e n wa s h e s and chang e s
.

h e r cl o t h e s p e rha p s for t h e fir s t t i m e s i nc e h e r nu p t ial s

, ,

and p u t s o n rai m e n t wh ich sh e con t i nu e s t o w e ar for

y e ars T hu s t h r e e o r four dr e sse s s uffic e for a woman
.
,

’
duri ng h e r l i fe t i m e and a marri e d gi p s y of a fe w y e ar s
,

st andi ng i s n e v e r an i nvi t i ng obj e c t t o look u on

p .

F rom D u m m a p e t t o S ironcha e igh t bullock s su ffic e d ,

for p rovi s ion s could b e p urcha se d on t h e j ourn e y ; b u t

b e yond t h a t I s hould r e qui r e a l o t m or e a s no s u p p l i e s ,

w e r e p rocu rabl e b e t w e e n D u m m a p e t and J a gg a du r ; b u t

t h e h e ad B r i n j a r i e t old m e h e could g e t t h e m from h i s

bro t h e r wh e n h e r e ach e d t h e G o d a v e r y Th e s e gra i n .

carri e r s a r e no t e d sp or t s m e n — p oach e r s i n t h e ir way ,

b u t v e ry s ucc e s s fu l hu n t e r s all t h e s am e ,
Th e y hav e .

a fi e rc e br e e d of larg e hound s wh ich t h e y would n o t ,

p ar t wi t h i n m y day .

M y cam p now con s i s t e d of t w o boy s a cook an d h is ,

wi fe a wa t e r carri e r t w o s h ik a r i e s four mal e and s ix

,
-
, ,

fe mal e B r i n j a r i e s a s yc e gra ss cu t t e r and m y p eg u

, ,
-

p ony . A word abou t t h e se

p on i e s will n o t b e am i s s .

Th e y a r e call e d Burm e se b u t a r e br e d and r e are d by

,

t h e S han s who l i v e o n t h e confi n e s of C h i na

, F or .

t h e i r s iz e — t h e y vary from t w e l v e and a hal f t o t h i r t e e n

and a hal f ha n d s h igh —t h e y a r e t h e fin e s t nags i n t h e

world Th e re i s a st rong da s h of t h e A rab i n t h e i r
.
2 78 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I N DI A

and t h e n Th e y had e i t h e r b e e n w e ll t augh t or t h e i r

.

i n st inc t w a s uncom mo nly good fo r t h e y e nd e avour e d ,

t o d ri v e t h e gam e t oward s t h e n e x t r e lay s of dog s who ,

agai n t ook u p t h e run ni ng ; t hu s i n a v e ry s hor t sp ac e ,

o f t i m e s ix p ow e rful dog s follow e d clo se l y by t h e i r

, ,

ma st e r s brough t an ani mal t o bay and wh il st t h e dog s

, ,

a t t ack e d i n fro n t a man crawl e d u p and drov e h i s

,

dagge r i n b e h i nd t h e s hould e r .

I n abou t t w o ho u rs w e had t h re e do e s and o n e

s t ag wh ich w e t h ough t am l e for our wan t s for gam e
,
p ,

abound e d e v e rywh e r e w e had o nl y t o h un t i t t o s e cu r e

all t h e m e a t w e wan t e d Whil s t o n e of t h e m e n w e n t
.
.

back t o bri ng u p t h e sp ar e ca t t l e w e had o n e mor e ,

b e a t Th i s t i m e a s ou nd e r of p ig h e ad e d by a hug e
.
,

gray boar brok e N ow t h e se gi p s i e s p ar t icularly affe c t

, .

t h e fl e s h of t h e s wi n e T h e boar di s dai n e d t o run far

.
,

and w a s s oon wi t h h i s w i v e s brough t t o bay As t h e

, , .

m e n w e r e afraid h e woul d kill o r r i p u p s om e of t h e i r

dog s t h e y a s k e d m e t o s lay h i m N o man h a s gr e a t e r

, .

r e sp e c t for a wild boar t han I hav e p rov id e d h e ,

l iv e s o n t h e bord e r s o f a ridabl e cou n t ry wh e r e h e ,

can s how sp or t t o mou n t e d m e n b u t h e r e i n t h i s i n ,

t e rm i nabl e j ungl e and an am p h i t h e a t r e of h ill s hog s ,

w e r e of n o accou n t for hu n t i ng s o I s ho t h i m t o p l e a se ,

t h e m e n and m urd e r e d a fa t so w fo r my s e l f V e n i s on .
,

e s e cially of t h e axi s d e e r i s n o t t o b e d e s i s e d an d
p ,
p ,

would b e b e t t e r i f i t could b e k e p t a day or t w o b u t a ,

long cou r se o f v e n i s on p all s s o I t hough t a n ic e p ork ,

cho p would b e a d e s irabl e chang e T h e bullock s .

arriv e d an d w e r e duly lad e n and t h e gam e kill e d w a s

, ,

a s m uch a s t h e y could carry .

L e avi ng t h e gi p s i e s t o bri ng i n t h e sp oil s t h e ,

 A T I G R E SS 2 79

s h ik a r i e s and I walk e d o n ah e ad I fou nd m y p ony .

wai t i ng for m e ; I g o t o n h i m and rod e o n w i t hou t

d e lay g e t t ing t o ou r cam p a t 5 p m
, I fou nd t h e .

villag e v e ry i n s ign ifican t and no s u pp l i e s p rocurabl e

, ,

b u t a s t h e n e x t s t ag e w a s only s i x m il e s di s t an t I
hal t e d t h e r e t ill p a st 2 p m t o e nabl e t h e m e n t o j e rk
. .
,

a good d e al of t h e m e a t W e r e ach e d G o p a l r a o p e t i n
.

good t im e b e fo re dark and mov e d o n t o N a g a n i e n p a l l i

,

t h e n e x t day T h i s i s a good s i z e d v illag e and n e arl y

.
-
,

o pp o s i t e t o B h a d r a c h e l l u m a larg e t ow n H av i ng
, .

p l e n t y of m e a t I o nl y s ho t a fe w j u ngl e fowl
, O n th e -
.

2 rd I
3 r e ach e d Ash w a p u r a s mal l villag e an d t h e
, ,

B r i n j a r i e s a s k e d p e rm i ss io n t o hu n t wh ich I r e adily ,

accord e d and i n t h e e v e n i ng t h e y brough t hom e t w o

,

s o t t e d do e s
p O n t h e 2 4t h w e march e d for M anagu r ;
.

w e had t o c ro ss s i x u nbridg e d nullah s w i t h s t e e p ,

bank s and muddy bo t t om s A bou t hal f way w e s a w .

-

t h e fr e s h ug s of a t ig e r and t rack e d h e r t o h e r lai r

p ,

i n t h e b e d of a dry rav i n e O u t of t h i s sh e w a s s oo n
.

t urn e d by m y m e n a n d t h e i r h ound s sh e a sse d m e

p
clo s e and a s s h e e nd e avo u r e d t o s n e ak along I kill e d
, ,

h e r wi t h a cou p l e of s h o t s T o m y gre a t r e gr e t I
.
,

found sh e would hav e b e e n a mo t h e r wi t h i n a mon t h

or s ix w e e k s—b u t t h e d e e d w a s don e and could n o t ,

b e h e l pe d .

W e cam e u p on t e ak for e st s h e r e and o n t h e 2 5 t h ,

r e ach e d K a r p a i r a w a r u m having b e e n con s id e rably

,

d e lay e d by havi ng t o c ro ss fou r u nbridg e d nullah s .

O n t h e 2 ot b w e g o t t o Raj u p e t T h e B r i n j a r i e s .

kill e d a cou p l e of s ow s and a d o e ch i t al o n t h e march .

O n t h e 2 7t h w e cam p e d a t M angap e t t h e coun t ry ,

o p e n and v illag e s num e rou s I laid i n a s t ock o f .

2 80 RE M I N I SCE NCE S OF I NDI A

fo w l s and e gg s an d advanc e d n e x t day t o N agaram

, ,

t h e coun t ry b e i ng good and t h e road ru n ni ng along t h e

,

righ t bank of t h e G o d a v e r y .

O n A p ril 2 9 I r e ach e d P a r g r a p u r wh e r e i s no ,

v illag e b u t a s gam e w a s r e p or t e d t o b e p l e n t i ful I

, ,

d e t e rm i n e d t o hal t t h e r e E arly n e x t morn i ng I w e n t

.

o u t s t al ki ng und e r a gu id e from a n e ighbou ri ng v illag e .

W e sa w num e rou s mark s b u t had no gr e a t l uck and , ,

a s I had rom i s e d if u n s ucc e ss ful t o b e back e arl y t o

p , ,

e nabl e t h e gi s i e s t o h u n t I t urn e d hom e ward s abo u t

p ,

n in e Wh e n p a ss ing a ravi n e d e n se ly cov e r e d w i t h

.
,

gra ss and j ungl e I h e ard a p e cul iar noi se s om e t h i n g

, ,

l i k e t ha t mad e by t e l e gra p h wi r e s on a w i ndy day I .

au s e d for a m om e n t t o l i s t e n and t h e s h i k a r i e oi n t
p p , ,

i ng downward s s aid A b e ar a sl e e p s ucki ng h i s p aw s

, ,
.
’

T h e r e w a s l i t t l e or no und e rgrow t h o n t h e e dg e s of
t h e cr e vic e ; p e e p i ng down I t hough t I coul d d i s ,

t i n g u i sh a dark obj e c t curl e d u p am id s t a l o t of dry

fall e n l e av e s and wi t h e re d gra ss T e ll ing t h e man t o .

s t and clo s e by w i t h t h e 7
5 7 I l e t fly t h e righ t barr
, e l
o f t h e Paradox T h e n e x t i n st an t t h e b e ar aft e r o n e
.
’

, ,

h e ar t r e ndi ng y e ll cam e a t m e o p e n mou t h e d t h e

,
-

bank w a s v e ry s t e e p b u t h e s crambl e d u p and wh e n

, ,

h e w a s w i t h i n a cou p l e of fe e t of t h e mu zzl e of t h e g u n ,

I di s charg e d t h e co n t e n t s of t h e l e ft barr e l down h i s

t h roa t . H e gav e o n e gurgl i ng s ound and fe ll back
ward s d e ad O n e xam i ning t h e body I found t h e
, .
,

roo f of t h e h e ad all b u t blown o ff s o d e s t ruc t iv e i s a ,

charg e of buck sho t driv e n by four drach m s of p owd e r

,

a t clo se quar t e r s I t h e n ha s t e n e d hom e and se n t

.
,

back t h e sh ik a r i e wi t h m e n t o bri ng in t h e sla i n .

W h e n i t arriv e d I found i t had b e e n mu t ila t e d T h e

,
.
282 RE M I N I S CE N C E S OF I N DI A

ra t e t ha t i t w a s a s much a s I could do t o wi nd u p fa st
e nough t o k e e
p t h e l i n e a t al l t au t Wh e n h e g o t .

wi t h i n t w e n t y yard s o f m e h e al t e r e d h is di re c t ion
, ,

and t ook a h e ad e r for t h e ban k fo r t una t e ly t h e r e w e r e

no s nag s w e e d s or ru sh e s and I s oon dr e w h i m back
, , ,

i n t o m id s t r e am S e e ing a sh e l ving s andy b e ach a

-
.

l i t t l e low e r down t h e s t r e am I t ol d t h e m e n t o t ak e ,

m e t h e r e and fa st e n t h e boa t a s hor e ; I land e d and

p lay e d t h e fi sh wh i ch w a s s t ill full of figh t and t w o o r

, ,

t h r e e t i m e s h e t ri e d t o br e ak t h e t ackl e by sp ri ngi ng

i n t o t h e ai r mor e l i k e a s al mo n t han t h e barb e l wh ich

,

h e r e ally w a s . I t w a s g e t t i ng dark I r e t r e a t e d u n t il
’
I w a s no long e r V i s ibl e from t h e wa t e r s e dg e an d
graduall y dr e w m y v ic t i m i n t o s hallow wa t e r As t h e .

bac k fi n b e cam e vi s ibl e o n e of t h e boa t m e n cr e p t i n

,

b e h ind and i n s e r t ing h i s fi ng e rs i n t o t h e gill s ca st h i m

, ,

a s hor e h igh and dry and a fe w knock s on t h e h e ad

, ,

wi t h a larg e st on e s oo n d e p riv e d t h e mah se e r o f

l i fe.

I t h e n fi sh e d on for ano t h e r hou r an d a half and ,

caugh t t h r e e mor e fi sh w e igh i ng n i n e fou r t e e n and

, , ,

se v e n ou nd s t ill a mon s t e r t ook away t h e whol e o f

p ,

my ca st of t r e bl e g u t s p oon and hook s and a s i t w a s

, ,

g e t t ing dark I l e ft off I k e p t t h e s mall e s t fi sh for

.

my own e a t ing and gav e t h e r e s t t o my follow e rs

,
.

O n M ay 4 w e m ov e d t o D e w a l w a r a e l e v e n m il e s i n , ,

t h e m orn i ng and cro ss e d ov e r t h e riv e r i n t h e aft e r

,

noo n t o S i roncha and I p u t u p i n a bungalow j u st

,

t h e n u noccu p i e d T h e offic e r com mand ing offe r e d t o

.

giv e m e a room b u t I p r e fe rr e d b e i ng i nd e p e nd e n t
,
.

H e r e I found a l o t of p a p e r s and l e t t e r s awai t ing m e ,

and I w a s v e ry bu sy t h e n e x t t w o day s i n an sw e ri ng
 S I RO N CHA 2 83

co rr e sp ond e nc e and s e e ing t o t h e arrang e m e n t s for

my fur t h e r p rogre ss acro ss an u nknow n coun t ry I .

w a s a ss ur e d t ha t only l igh t l y lad e n ca t t l e could t rav e l

-

ov e r t h e se h ill s so ord e r e d e x t ra bullock s I al s o

, .

found h e r e my s t or e s of wi n e s b e e r and p r e se rv e d , ,

p rovi s ion s wai t i ng for m e wh ich, I had t o o p e n an d

r e p ack i n t o bundl e s s u i t abl e for t ran sp or t by ca t t l e
i n st e ad o f i n car t s .

T h e offi c e r i n com mand o f t h e d e t ach m e n t t hough t

I w a s mad t o go i n t o s uch a cou n t ry wi t hou t b e i ng
forc e d t o do so ; b u t t h e n h e w a s n o s p or t s man I .

can no t h e l p t h i nking t ha t a man who car e s n o t h i ng

for sp or t i s u n fi t t e d fo r s e rvic e i n t h e E a st D uri ng .

e ac e u nl e s s o n e i s fond o f ou t doo r amu se m e n t s t im e

p , ,

hang s h e av ily o n on e s hand s I n o u t of t h e way p lac e s

’
.
- - -
,

l i k e S i ro ncha t h e r e i s n o l i t e ra t ur e t o b e had T h e
, .

o rd i nary rou t i n e of m il i t ary du t y i n garri s o n do e s n o t

occu p y o n e abov e an hou r m orn i ng and e v e ni n g .

Wha t can a man fi n d t o b e gu il e t i m e i f h e car e s

no t h i ng for t h e sp or t s o f t h e fi e ld ? H e p robabl y
a ss e s mor e t han h al f t h e day i l ee and wh e n
p n s p ,

call e d u p on t o s e rv e on a cam p aign i s u nabl e t o u nd e r ,

go t h e n e c e ssary hard s h i p s and e x p o su r e and h a s t o ,

b e i n val id e d t hu s p rov ing a hard bargai n t o h i s e m

,

p l oy e r s. N ow i n ,
mo s t s i ngl e s t a t ion s
p ar t icularl y ,at

S i roncha gam e i s p l e n t i ful an d s hoo t i ng or fi s h ing

, ,

afford s a p l e a san t r e c re a t i on t o t h e s ol i t ary E u ro p e an

cond e m n e d t o r e s id e t h e r e alo n e fo r s i x mon t h s o r
mor e on e n d w i t h nobody t o a ss ocia t e wi t h I t ri e d
, .

t o p e r s uad e m y acquai n t anc e t o t ak e e v e n t o fi s h i ng ,

and offe r e d t o giv e h i m t ackl e ; b u t h e s aid h e could

n o t s wim ,and w a s n o t go ing t o t ru st h im se l f i n a
2 84 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I NDI A

cockl e s h e ll for t h e p l e a s ur e of ca t ch i ng a fi sh wh ich

-

h e could buy for a fe w p e nc e i n t h e bazaar As fd r .

s hoo t i ng h e did n o t e v e n
,
p o ss e ss a gun H i s wa s a .

h o p e l e ss ca se and I fe ar n o t a sol i t ary o n e for v e ry

, , , ,

many of t ho s e who ob t ai n co m m i ss io n s u nd e r t h e n e w
rul e s a r e bookworm s and b u t p oo r a t t ha t ; for t h e ,

mor e a man i s c ram m e d t h e s oon e r h e forg e t s i n aft e r ,

l ife all t ha t h a s b e e n driv e n i n t o h i m i n h i s you t h w i t h

t h e v i e w of p a ss i ng a c e r t ai n e xami na t i o n .

I e ngag e d a cou p l e of e x t ra sh i k a r i e s I had t o .

s e nd R am iah back a s h i s ro e n s i t y for run n ing aft e r

p p ,

t h e fair s e x had al r e ady cau s e d se v e ral row s and how ,

e v e r vi r t uou s t h e B r i n a r i e s may b e a s far a s E uro p e an s

j
a r e conc e rn e d i t w a s mor e t han half s u s e c t e d t ha t m y
, p
follow e r had found favour i n t h e e y e s of o n e of t h e
gi p s i e s and i f t h e i n t i macy w a s found o u t t h e re woul d
,

b e murd e r for t h e s e m e n kno w no law b u t [ ex

,

and would n ot hav e h e s i t a t e d t o p u t a kn ife i n t o

M a st e r R amiah s carca ss ’
.

A l t hough I had n e v e r b e e n i n t h e B u st a r coun t ry ,

I hav e h un t e d i n t h e di st ri c t s s om e wha t s ou t h n e ar ,

D a r a c o n d a and hav e had famou s s p or t

,
I n t h e se h illy .

r e gion s buffalo e s gaur s ambu r ch i t al fou r horn e d, , , ,

-

an t e lo p e barki ng d e e r b e ar s t ig e r s and l e o p ard s

, , , ,

abou nd .

O n M ay 7 I mad e a forc e d march t o Assa r e ll i ,

t w e n t y m il e s I had a t rai n of t h ir t y ca t t l e four t e e n

.
,

B r i n j a r i m e n and wom e n my own s e rvan t s and t hr e e , ,

s h ik a r i e s N e x t d a y I se n t o n t h e gr e a t e r p ar t o f m y
.

cam p t o M a d n a i r t h i r t y s ix m il e s and t ak i ng a w e e k s
,
-
,
’

su l i e s I w n t nor t h e a s t abou t fi ft e e n m il es and

pp e -
, ,

e ncam e d o n t h e I n d r a v a t i riv e r
p T wo of t h e gi s i e s
p .
,
28 6 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I NDI A

se v e r e ly many y e ar s b e for e and b e e n fr e e of i t e v e r ,

s inc e I had b e com e sal t e d a s t h e y sa y i n S ou t h

.
‘
,
’

A fri ca W e mov e d i n s i ngl e fi l e

. I l e d t h e way wi t h .

my 5 7 7 of wh ich t h e car t ridg e s carri e d s ix drachm s

‘

of p owd e r and a hard e n e d s ol id p roj e c t il e ; t h e n

follow e d E la p a h wi t h a t w e l v e bor e doubl e ri fl e al s o -
,

h e av ily load e d and a l ocal man brough t u p t h e r e ar

,

w i t h t h e Paradox T h e gi p s i e s wi t h t h e i r hound s
.

k e p t w e ll b e h i nd ; t h e i r o rd e rs w e r e t o loo se n t h e
dog s onl y i n ca se of a s crim mag e .

W e had gon e fu lly t h re e m il e s w e had n o t h e ard a

s ou nd n o t e v e n a t r e e crick e t ch ir e d — i t w a s a s il e nc e
p
-

t ha t coul d b e fe l t At la st a fai n t gl i m m e r of a
.

r e ddi s h t in t b e cam e v i s ibl e ov e r t h e t o p s of t h e h ill s

t o t h e e a st and w e hail e d t h e a pp roach o f m orn wi t h
,

d e l igh t fo r t h e gloom of t h e for e s t w a s d e p r e ss ing

, .

E v e r o n t h e g zzz v i v a I h e ard a s l igh t m ov e m e n t i n

’

t h e b e d o f t h e riv e r wh ich lay abou t a h undr e d and ,

fi ft y yard s t o ou r righ t H oldi ng u p my arm — a

g e st ur e t ak e n u p by e ach follow e r i n s ucc e ss io n —w e
.

hal t e d H e ari ng t h e no i se r e p e a t e d I cau t iou sly

.
,

advanc e d follow e d by t h e sh i k a r i e s W e w e r e i n a
,
.

bamboo for e st fr e e o f u nd e rgrow t h ; t h e fall e n l e av e s

,

had ro t t e d and form e d a rich moul d ov e r wh ich w e

coul d advanc e s il e n t ly t h e l i t t l e noi se w e occa s ionally,

mad e by s t e pp ing o n t o a brok e n t wig b e i ng drow n e d

i n t h e ri p p l e o f t h e s t r e am I k e p t a larg e clum p o f .

bamboo s b e t w e e n m e and t h e sp o t I w a s maki ng for ,

wh e nc e I t hough t t h e no i s e had com e I did n o t .

h urry a s I wan t e d a l i t t l e mor e l igh t for corr e c t s h oo t

,

i ng T h e noi se I gu e sse d p roc e e d e d mo st p robabl y

.
, ,

from s om e bu ffalo e s lyi ng down i n t h e riv e r Wh e n I .

 B U FF AL O E S 287

r e ach e d my obj e c t i v e p o i n t I found I w a s t oo far

b e low for I could se e s om e buffalo e s i n t h e wa t e r u p
,

t h e s t r e am s om e way fro m wh e r e w e w e r e s o r e t rac i ng

our s t e p s w e mad e for ano t h e r cl u m p n e ar e r t h e gam e

, .

B y t h e t i m e I g o t t h e r e obj e c t s had b e com e m ore

vi s ibl e and I found my s e l f wi t h i n t e n yard s of four
,

buffalo e s I t ook a car e ful ai m a t t h e bull and fi r e d

.
,

a t t h e j unc t io n of t h e e a r and h e ad H e fe ll o v e r t h e .

cow s sp rang u p and I gav e t h e m t hr e e s ho t s ; t w o

,

w e r e h i t b u t g o t t o t h e mai n ban k and ru sh e d i n t o

,

t h e j ungl e .

L e av ing a B r i n j a r i e and o n e o f t h e s h i k a r i e s t o
d e c a p i t a t e t h e bull a s h e w a s a v e ry big o n e and had
, ,

a good s p r e ad o f horn s I follow e d u p t h e o t h e r s ; n o t

,

t ha t I wan t e d t h e m p ar t i cularly b u t I mak e a p oi n t ,

o f kill ing all wound e d an i mal s i f p o ss ibl e I t is in .

c umb e n t o n e v e ry sp or t s man t o i nfl ic t a s l i t t l e p ain a s

o ss ibl e o n t h e gam e h e hu n t s Th e s e buffalo e s a r e
p .

n o t t o b e com p ar e d t o t ho se i n B urma o r A ss am e i t h e r

i n s iz e o r fe roci t y y e t t h e y a r e na st y cu st om e rs Th e y
,
.

a re
p robably t h e d e s c e ndan t s o f t am e ca t t l e ru n loo se ,

and b e com e fe ral i n t i m e W e found blood on t w o .

s oor s ;
p t h e t h i rd a pp ar e nt l y had go n e away un

wou nd e d T h e t racki ng w a s e a s y e nough a t fi r s t b u t

.
,

wh e n w e cam e t o a dry ri vul e t U p t h e b e d of wh ich ,

t h e y had gon e ,
followi ng t h e m w a s n o t p l e a san t .

T h e chan n e l w a s v e ry narrow full o f bould e r s o f ,

rock s l oo se st on e s and t horny bu sh e s wh ich w e r e

, , ,

b e sp a t t e r e d w i t h blood O n e i t h e r s id e t h e bank s
.

w e r e high slo p ing u p and fo rm i ng t h e ba se s of t w o

, ,

h ill s wh i ch ran p arall e l t o o n e ano t h e r I t w a s abou t

, .

a s na s t y a p lac e a s e v e r I sa w .
2 88 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I N DI A

I t old t w o m e n t o g e t o n t o t h e bank s wh e re t h e y ,

would b e s afe and t o go ah e ad an d a s s oo n a s t h e y

, ,

s a w t h e quarry t o giv e warn ing by s t riki ng t h e t ru n k

of a t r e e A s e ach man had a cou p l e of hou nd s I

.
,

t old t h e m i f t h e éu éa l z charg e d t o lay o n t h e i r dog s

'

b u t n o t o t h e rwi s e I cu r s e d my folly for having fi re d

.

a t t h e cow s a t all I g o t cov e r e d w i t h blood and m y

.
,

advanc e w a s n e c e ssarily s low b u t I cam e u p o n t h e ,

b e as t s s oon e r t han I e x p e c t e d Th e i r wou nd s had .

p robably s t i ffe n e d and h e aring u s a

, pp roach t h e y m ad e ,

u t h e ir m i nd s t o d i e figh t ing I h e ard a warn ing t a

p .
p
giv e n by o n e of t h e m e n and p u t my rifl e o n full cock ,

o nly j u s t i n t im e for o n e of t h e b e a s t s w i t h a s nor t

,

w a s down u p o n m e I fir e d i n t o h e r fac e wh e n t h e
.

horn s w e r e all b u t round m e and t h r e w my se l f a s id e , ,

j u st e s ca p i ng b e i ng t ram p l e d u p o n for t h e se cond ,

charg e d clo se b e h i nd t h e fir s t Wh il st o n t h e ground .

I p u t i n t h e se cond barr e l and had t h e p l e a sur e o f ,

h e ari ng o n e of t h e m t o p p l e ov e r among st t h e loo se

rock s T wo of t h e dog s had follow e d t h e se and t w o
.
,

t ook aft e r t h e t h ird wh ich w e n t o n u p t h e n ullah

,
. .

U nfor t una t e l y w e follow e d t h i s o n e and aft e r hal f an ,

hou r h e ard i t a t bay ; b u t b e for e I could g e t wi t h i n

s ho t t h e b e a s t s e n t t h e dog s flyi ng and w e n t off full
, ,

s cor e agai n As bo t h t h e s e hound s w e r e hu r t and

.
,

w e a s c e r t ai n e d w e had b e e n followi ng t h e unwou nd e d

on e w e gav e u p t h e cha s e
,
.

T h e wound e d dog s w e r e car e full y a t t e nd e d t o and ,

w e r e t rac e d ou r s t e p s T h e m e n t or e o u t t h e l iv e r of
.

t h e cow j u s t kill e d and fe d t h e i r hou nd s o n i t

,
.

L e avi ng t h e m t o flay t h e b e a st and p rom i s ing t o ,

se nd back mor e m e n t o h e l p i n t ran sp or t ing t h e m e a t

2 90 RE M I N I SCE NCE S OF I N DI A
th e e x t ra ri fl e ov e r m y own s hould e r W e r e ach e d .

cam p wi t hou t fur t h e r adv e n t u r e s E l a p a h and t w o .

B r i n j a r i e s w e n t back for t h e m e a t o f t h e d e e r and h i s

marrow bon e s wh il st t h e o t h e r s w e n t fo r t h e b e e f t o
-
,

b e j e rk e d for t h e u s e o f t h e dog s and t h e t o ngu e s , ,

wh ich a r e ca p i t al e a t i ng fo r my own u se, .

T h e m e n m ad e t w o t ri p s and t h e la st t im e t h e y d id
,

n o t r e t urn t ill v e ry la t e and r e p or t e d t ha t t h e y had

,

h e ard t h e no i s e of s om e b e a s t s figh t i ng i n t h e di r e c t io n
t ak e n by t h e wound e d buffalo and t hough t s h e had ,

b e e n a t t ack e d by a t ig e r T e ll i ng t h e m t o b e r e ady
.

for a s t ar t an h ou r b e for e daybr e ak I r e t i r e d t o r e s t , .

T h e dog s w e r e v e ry r e s t l e ss all n igh t barking a n d ,

mov ing abou t I g o t u p t wic e b u t coul d se e no t h i ng

.
,

ou t s id e our fe nc e b u t o n e of t h e m e n o n wa t ch t ol d
,

m e h e had s e e n a cou p l e of b e ar s p rowl ing abou t an d ,

h e t hough t t ha t hy ae na s or l e o p ard s had al s o b e e n

p r e se n t , a t t rac t e d by t h e m e at i n cam p W e w e r e .

w e ll o n t h e way by a l i t t l e p a s t fi v e and wh e n w e ,

a p p roach e d t h e carca ss of t h e fi rs t cow s om e t h i ng ,

bou nd e d off i t b u t i t w a s t oo d ark t o di st ingu i s h wha t

,

it wa s . P roc e e di ng a l i t t l e fur t h e r w e hal t e d u n t il ,

daybr e ak an d t h e n t h e m e n l e d t h e way t oward s

,

wh e r e t h e y had h e ard t h e di st urbanc e t h e p r e v i ou s

e v e ni ng I n hal f an hour w e cam e u p o n t h e sp o t
.
,

w h e r e t h e r e had e vid e n t ly b e e n a gr e a t s t ruggl e .

T h e ground w a s t orn u p t h e bu sh e s b e a t e n down ,

and cov e r e d wi t h blood and w e had n o t t o go far t o

,

a s c e r t a i n t h e cau se W e s oo n cam e u p o n t h e s e cond

.

cow n o t d e ad b u t ham st rung T h e p oor c re a t u r e

, ,
.

t ri e d t o g e t u p t o do ba t t l e w i t h u s an d I p u t a ball ,

t hrough h e r h e ad t o p u t h e r o u t of
p ai n A l i t t l e .
 AN O T H E R TI GE R K I LLE D 2 9I

fu r t h e r o n a s I a p p roach e d a bu s h t h e re w a s a
, ,

growl and wi t h a roar o u t cam e an i m m e n se t ig e r

, , ,

at us
, m e an ing m i s ch i e f ; b u t h is ra t e o f p rogr e s s
w a s s low and h e dragg e d o n e h i nd l e g b e h i nd h im
,
-
.

I gav e h i m t h e l e ft barr e l b u t fail e d t o s t o p h i m ,

.

E l a p a h a s u s ual s t uck t o m e w e ll and hand e d t h e

, , ,

o t he r gu n qu ickly I fir e d t h e righ t barr e l wh e n

.

th e bru t e w a s o nly t w o o r t hr e e yard s off ; t h e n ,

j um p ing o n o n e s id e I gav e h i m t h e co n t e n t s of t h e
,

l e ft barr e l i n t h e s hould e r a t l e ss t han a yard d i s t an t ,

a n d h e colla s e d all i n a h e a
p p A l t ho u gh ga m e .t o

figh t u s h e had had e nough of t h e buffalo t ho u gh i f h e

, ,

had r e n e w e d t h e a t t ack sh e m u s t hav e fall e n a n e a s y

v ic t i m I n t h e a ffray sh e had dri v e n h e r h orn righ t
.

’
t hrough t h e t ig e r s t h igh h igh u p and I v e ry much ,

d ou b t wh e t h e r t h e an i mal wo u l d hav e g o t o v e r t h e
wound for many di e from l e ss s e v e r e i n fli c t i o n s ow i ng
,

t o m or t i fi c a t i o n S h e had dri v e n h e r l e ft h or n u p t o
.

t h e h il t and i t w a s cov e r e d wi t h blood and p i e c e s of

,

fl e s h and s ki n T h e m e n d e clar e d i t w a s t h e s am e
.

t ig e r t ha t I had m i ss e d y e s t e rday .

L e avi ng a cou p l e of m e n t o t ak e o ff t h e s ki n and

t o c u t o ff t h e t ig e r s h e ad I w e n t o n T h e amoun t o f
’
.
,

c l i mbing u and go ing down h ill s I u nd e r we n t t h e

p
n e x t t w o hours w a s a v e ry s e v e r e e x p e ri e nc e Wh e n .

a t l e ng t h I r e ach e d t h e la t e au I w a s d e ad b e a t s o
p , ,

sa t down and for t ifi e d t h e i nn e r man The men .

b e cam e v e ry i m p a t i e n t a t my r e st ing and p oi n t e d t o ,

a long row of t r e e s wh ich t h e y s aid fri ng e d a n e arl y

,

dry wa t e rcour se wh e r e t h e wh i t e clay of wh ich all

, ,

a n i mal s a re s o fond w a s t o b e found ,

Th e y d e clare d .

t ha t u nl e ss w e mad e ha s t e w e s houl d arriv e t oo la t e

, , ,
2 92 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I N DI A

as di re c t ly t h e s u n w a s w e ll ov e r t h e ho rizon t h e se
an i mal s r e t ir e d t o t h e i r lai rs i n s uch d e n se brambl y
t h ick e t s t ha t t h e r e w a s no g e t t i ng a t t h e m As s oon .

as I r e cov e r e d my w i nd w e w e n t o n and g o t t o t h e
, ,

d e s ir e d local i t y abo u t 8 a m and a s t h e r e w e r e no. .

,

h u man b e ing s b u t o urs e l v e s wi t h i n a radi u s of t w e n t y

m il e s I did n o t t h in k t h e w ild ca t t l e would b e so
,

sh and r e t i r e t h u s e arly B u t i t t u rn e d o u t t ha t I
y .

w a s wrong . F oo t mark s w e r e p l e n t i ful and w e sa w ,

m o re t han o n e p lac e wh e r e t h e e ar t h had j u st b e e n

gnaw e d o r s coo p e d o u t form i ng s hall ow cav e s i n t h e
,

s id e s of t h e nullah b u t t h e r e w a s n o t t h e gho s t o f a
,

gau r anywh e r e . I w a s i n no hu rry I had a m p l e .

rov e nd e r w i t h m e t o la s t t h rough t h e day ; I kn e w

p .

from t h e i r foo t mark s t ha t t h e s e b e a s t s w e r e num e rou s ,

and i f n o t t h e r e t h e y woul d b e fo u nd e l s e wh e r e S o .

o n w e w e n t followi ng t h e cou rs e of t h e s t r e am ; i n
,

lac e s i t narrow e d con s id e rably i n o t h e r s i t s r e ad

p p ,

ou t mor e l i k e a mars h t han a ri v e r s b e d Th e se .

d e p r e ss ion s w e r e cov e r e d wi t h gra ss bu sh e s h e r e , ,

and t h e r e a t o p e of t r e e s and e v e ry now and t h e n ,

hug e block s of s t on e I t w a s j u s t t h e s or t o f p lac e

.

for an imal s t o r e t i r e t o du ri ng t h e h e a t of t h e day ,

a s t h e re w a s i n lac e s s u ffi ci e n t fol iag e t o afford t h e m

p
sh e l t e r .

Wha t I wan t e d w a s t o g e t i f p o ss ibl e a s ol i t ary , ,

bull t o com p are h i m wi t h h is bre t h r e n i n B urma

,
.

T h e sh ik a r i e t ouch e d m e and p oi n t e d t o wha t I may

“

al mo st call an i s land abou t s ix t y yard s away and

, ,
.

‘
wh i s p e r e d J u ngl y gooroo (Wild ca t t l e ) b u t I coul d
’

se e no t h ing . I t t urn e d o u t t ha t h e had s e e n t h e t i p s

of t h e horn s o f s om e cow s wh ich wi t h t h e ir cal v e s , , ,.
2 94 RE M I N I SC E N CE S OF I N DI A

i n m y d i re c t i on I j um p e d u p se iz e d t h e n e are st
.
,

w e a p on wh ich t u rn e d o u t t o b e t h e doubl e t w e l v e
, ,

and g o t b e h i nd a larg e t ru n k o f a t r e e T h e r e w a s a .

gr e a t ra t t l i ng and s ca t t e ri ng of s t on e s al ong t h e hollow ,

and a h ug e gau r t or e d own u p on m e M y t iffi n ba s k e t .

-

a t t rac t e d h i s a t t e n t io n L ow e ri ng h is h e ad h e ru sh e d
.
,

a t i t and a s h e t o ss e d i t t h e e r and s al t w e n t full

, , p pp
e ,

i n t o h i s e y e s an d u p h i s no s e a n d for a se cond o r t w o ,

I could n o t fi r e for laugh ing a t t h e e x t raordi nary an t ic s

o f t h e bull Tha t h e w a s p ar t ially bl i nd e d t h e r e could
.

b e no d oub t for i n h i s s t ruggl e s t o rid h im s e l f of t h e

, ,

co ndi m e n t s h e bu t t e d s e v e ral t r e e s wi t h gr e a t fo rc e
,
.

As s oon a s I coul d s t e ady my se l f I gav e h im t h e ,

con t e n t s of bo t h barr e l s b u t t h e y s e e m e d t o hav e l i t t l e

,

e ffe c t o n h i m T h e fou r hound s w e r e t e ari ng a t h i s

.

h e e l s and h e w a s kicki ng p awi ng and p l ungi ng l ik e

, , ,

an A u st ral ian buck j u m p e r I n r e l oa d i ng I g o t hol d

-
.
,

o f t h e w rong car t ridg e s and wh il s t I w a s fumbl i ng ,

abou t for s t ray on e s i n my p ock e t s t h e bull p ar t ially ,

r e cov e r e d h is e y e s igh t and cam e a t m e , I j um p e d .

b e h i nd a t re e and t h e bul l s t ruck i t s uch a blow w i t h

,

h i s ma ss iv e for e h e ad t ha t I won d e r h e w a s n o t s t unn e d

t h e t r e e had far t o o gr e a t a gir t h e v e n t o b e s hak e n .

H e t h e n t ri e d t o g e t round and I dodg e d h i m and , ,

o n e o f t h e larg e s t h ou n d s s p ra n g and p i nn e d h i m by

t h e no s e . H ow h e d id b e llow t o b e s ur e ! B u t t h e ,

m igh t y b e a s t w i t h a t o s s of h i s h e ad s e n t t h e dog
, ,

flying t h rough t h e ai r l e avi ng a p or t io n of t h e car t ilag e

,

of h i s n o st ril s i n t h e t e naciou s jaw s of t h e hound J u st .

t h e n I found o n e s ol i t ary car t ri dg e and wi t h t h e , ,

mu zzl e all b u t t ou c h ing h i m I fi r e d b e h i nd t h e shoul d e r , ,

wh ich s ick e n e d h im and h e sough t r e fuge i n fl igh t

, .
 A FI NE B U LL 2
95

Bu t th e
good hound s s t uck t o h i m I ran t o wh e r e .

t h e e x p r e ss w a s l yi ng i ck e d i t and had no difficul t y

p , u
p ,

i n givi ng t h e gr e a t bull h i s qu ie t u s T h e whol e s c e n e .

did n o t la s t fi v e m i nu t e s t hough i t h a s t ak e n s om e
,

t i m e t o t e ll Wh e n i t w a s all ov e r my follow e r s a p
.
,

e a r e d o n t h e s c e n e ; b u t duri ng t h e s cri mmag e t h e y

p
had j udiciou s ly t ak e n u p p o s i t ion s b e h in d t re e s .

O n e xami n i ng t h e p riz e h e t urn e d o u t t o b e a s fi n e

,

a bull a s i s g e n e rall y fou nd i n I ndia b u t far i nfe rio r ,

t o t ho se I h av e s ho t i n B u rma As n e arly a s I coul d

.

t e ll h e m e a s u r e d n i n e t e e n and a hal f hand s h igh and

, , ,

j udgi ng fro m t h e ridg e s o n t h e ba s e of t h e horn s h e ,

m u s t hav e b e e n a t l e a s t t h i r t y y e ars of a g e A cro ss .

t h e wa t e r an ol d bull of h i s a e woul d hav e b e e n a

,
g
hand o r m or e h igh e r and would hav e had a fa r fi n e r
,

h e ad ; b u t t h e t i p s of t h e h orn s o f t h i s o n e had worn

down H e w a s by far t h e fi n e s t I e v e r g o t i n I ndia
.

p p ro er T h e m e n t old m e t h e y had wand e r e d s om e

.

way u p t h e vall e y i n s e arch of moh wa t r e e s and had -

,

com e u p on t h e gaur u n e x p e c t e dly and wi t h a v i e w o f , ,

drivi ng h i m t oward s m e t h e y had se t t h e hound s o n

,

h im I t ol d t h e m t h e i r doi ng s o w a s con t rary t o

.

ord e rs fo r t h e bayi ng of a h oun d d i st urb s t h e cou n t ry

,

for m il e s around an d I had ov e r and ov e r agai n t old

,

t h e m only t o loo s e n t h e d og s i n t h e e v e n t of a mel ee .

H ow e v e r t h e b e a st w a s bagg e d and t h e d amag e don e

, , ,

s o i t w a s no u s e s ayi ng much .

H av i ng com e so far I t hough t I m igh t a s w e ll h av e

,

a look a t t h e t abl e land b e yond I t w a s no e a s y t a s k .

for my follow e rs h e av ily lad e n a s t h e y w e r e and

, ,

c l i mbing u from t h val l y w a s v e ry fa t igui ng ; b u t

p e e

wh e n w e r e ach e d t h e t o p t h e vi e w fully r e p aid u s fo r

,
2 96 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I NDI A

all our t roubl e T h e s urfac e w a s n e arly fla t wi t h

.
,

u ndula t ion s s o s l igh t a s s carc e l y t o b e p e rc e p t ibl e

fully t e n or t w e lv e m il e s long by fi v e or s i x broad ,

w i t h clum p s of t r e e s do t t e d h e r e and t h e r e T h e r e is .

s e ldo m wa t e r o n t h e t o p ; of cou r se i n t h e vall e y s ,

wh ich se para t e t h e se pla t e aux t h e r e i s al mo s t alway s

a l i t t l e wa t e r i n t h e dry se a s on wh il s t i n t h e mo n s oo n
,

t h e y a r e raging t orr e n t s S om e t i m e s a t i ny s t r e am of
.

wa t e r t ri ckl e s down t h e h ill s id e fro m a na t ural sp ring .

B u t o n t h i s t abl e land t h e r e w a s a s l igh t d e p r e ss io n

i n wh ich t h e r e w a s s t ill som e wa t e r l e ft an d t h e ,

num e rou s mark s s how e d t ha t i t w a s t h e r e s or t n igh t ly

o f all k i nd s o f gam e .I w a s s o t ak e n w i t h t h e p lac e
t ha t I d e t e rm i n e d t o hal t fo r a fe w day s C hoo s i ng a .

s u i t abl e local i t y u nd e r s om e cl um s of bamboo s s om e

p ,

o f t h e m n e arly a foo t i n d iam e t e r I t ol d t w o o f t h e ,

m e n t o go back and t o bri ng m y cam p t h e r e

,
F ro m .

t h e t o p o f t h i s p la t e au I coul d s e e a ma ss of moun t ai n s

t o t h e nor t h e a s t and s ou t h
, , T o t h e s ou t h w e st t h e
.
-

cou n t ry w a s e qually h illy b u t h e r e and t h e r e I could

,

e t a gl im s e of t h e G o d a v e r y wh ich a t t ha t di s t an c e
g p ,

l ook e d mor e l i k e a s il v e r t hr e ad t han a m igh t y ri v e r .

W e w e re o n o n e of t h e h igh e s t of t h e h ill s I could .

only se e t h r e e o t h e r s t w o t o t h e nor t h and o n e t o t h e

,

s ou t h ,t ha t w e re h igh e r t han ou r s As t h e m e n .

coll e c t e d t h e t horny bru s hwood for wh ich t h e y had ,

t o go s om e di s t anc e I arrang e d i t round u s i n a

,

c i rcular fo rm and s oo n had a r e sp e c t abl e d e fe nc e

,

again s t i n t ru s iv e b e a st s I e x p e c t e d m y p e o p l e u p
.

b e for e dark and a s t h e y d id n o t a pp e ar I mad e a

, ,

kabob o u t of s om e of t h e b e e f and fou nd i t n o t a t all ,

bad A p i n t of b e e r wh ich h a d b e e n p u t i n t o t h e
.
,
2 9s RE M I N I S CE N C E S OF I NDI A

c e iv e d me h e y mad e for m e T h e fe nc e s t o ppe d

, t .

t h e m a b i t and t h e larg e s t t h e mal e s t ood u p

, ,
He ,
.

se e m e d full y s i x fe e t h igh and s how e d a se t o f ,

form idabl e i vori e s and m o st mu s cular arm s .

H e w a s o nly abou t fi v e fe e t off an d I p ou r e d a ,

‘
charg e of buck sh o t o u t of t h e Paradox i n t o t h e hor s e ’

s ho e , and ov e r h e roll e d righ t on t o h i s ma t e For a .

m om e n t sh e w a s und e cid e d wh e th e r t o fall u p on h im

t oo t h and nail and w a s ac t ually goi ng for h i m wh e n
, , ,

fi ndi ng h i m mo t ionl e ss I fancy sh e r e al iz e d t ha t h e r

,

l o rd and ma s t e r w a s d e ad and d e t e rm i n e d t o v e n t h e r
,

rag e u p on m e S h e mad e a da s h a t ou r fe nc e and

.

brok e t h rough i t ; b u t j u s t t h e n t h e dog s w e r e

loo se n e d and fa st e n e d u p on h e r quar t e r S h e t urn e d
,
.

rou n d wh i rl i n g h e r arm s abou t l ik e t h e s ail s of a

,

wi ndm ill b u t t h i s w a s n o t t h e fir st b e ar t h e s e hou nd s

,

had t ackl e d for t h e y se e m e d qu i t e a t h om e a n d

, ,

avoid e d h e r blow s w i t h gr e a t agil i t y T h e y w e re all .

s o m ix e d I w a s afraid t o fi r e b u t E la pa h t h r e w a ,

blaz i ng log righ t in t o h e r fac e ; w i t h a d e e p groan

o f d i sgu s t a t t h i s u n fai r mod e of figh t i ng sh e t u rn e d ,

t o fl y and i n s o doi ng e x p o s e d h e r broad s id e and a

, ,

righ t and l e ft laid h e r low .

L e av i ng t h e b e ar s wh e r e t h e y lay I con s ul t e d t h e ,

m e n a s t o t h e non arri val of our cam p -

Th e n t aking .
,

E l a p a h and go ing i n t h e di r e c t ion p oi n t e d o u t by t h e

l ocal sh i k a r i e I t ook a s t rol l I had n o t gon e v e ry
,
.

far wh e n looki ng down t h e h ill s id e I sa w a cou p l e

, ,

of fou r horn e d an t e lo p e brow s i ng o n t h e bam boo l ik e

- -

gra ss . B e ing abov e t h e m and wal ki ng o v e r t h e ,

t h ick v e l v e t y t urf i n i n d i a ru b b e r s ol e d s ho e s I mad e ,

no noi se and g o t qui t e clo se j u st a s t h e t w o we r e

,
 A FI NE G AM E C OU N TR Y 2 99

fe e di ng s id e by s id e an d a s ol id con ical o u t o f t h e
,

e x p r e s s accoun t e d for e ach of t h e m .

B y t h e t im e w e had d e p or t e d t h e s e t o ou r t e m p orary
abod e E l a pa h s aid h e h e ard voic e s and i n a quar t e r
, ,

o f an hou r my boy a p p e ar e d I l e arn t I had t o t hank .

t h e t w o b e ar s for p r e v e n t i ng m y cam p r e ach i ng m e t h e

nigh t b e for e T h e p a t h m y m e n an d bullock s had t o

.

t rav e r se w a s a m e r e t rack along t h e e d g e o f a ravi n e ,

wi t h a h ill o n o n e s id e an d a d e e p h ollow o n t h e
o t h e r o ff wh ich t h e y could n o t g e t and j u s t i n fron t
, ,

of t h e m w e r e t h e s e t w o b e ar s b ill i ng and coo ing i n ,

t h e i r fa sh ion p robabl
, y s e ndi ng
p t h e i r h o n e ym oon ,

and do wha t my m e n would t h e amorou s co u p l e ,

woul d n o t giv e way S o t h e m e n had t o h al t wh e r e

.

t h e y w e r e and t o l igh t hug e fi r e s t o k e e p t h e m o ff

, .

G r e a t w a s t h e i r r e j o ici ng wh e n t h e y sa w t h e d e ad
bodi e s of t h e t w o b e ar s .

A ft e r a ha s t y m e al I t ook t w o m e n and r e con noi t r e d .

I t w a s a s pl e nd id gam e cou n t ry b u t I had o nl y t w o ,

’
m on t h s l e av e of wh i ch fi v e w e e k s had e x p i r e d and
, ,

I w a s a l ong way from my h e adquar t e r s so coul d ,

n o t lo i t e r long T o do t h i s d i s t ric t p ro p e rly a t l e a s t

.

t h r e e mon t h s w e r e r e qui s i t e S o I d e t e rm i n e d t o g e t
.

o n and r e t u rn ano t h e r t i m e I sa w much gam e b u t i t

.
,

w a s i n t h e o p e n an d I could n o t g e t a t i t so I onl y
, ,

kill e d a s ambu r fo r t h e p o t and g o t back t o cam p abou t

an hour b e fo r e dark I fou nd t ha t o n e of o ur ca t t l e
.

hav i ng s t ray e d had b e e n p ounc e d u p o n and kill e d by

a t ig e r T h e carca ss w a s j u s t down t h e h ill s id e n o t
.
,

fi v e hu ndr e d yard s away A m a c /55m had b e e n p r e

.

p ar e d and a s t h e r e w a s n o m oon i n ord e r t o

,
g e t an ,

‘
e ffe c t iv e sh o t I m u s t s i t u p a t o nc e and t ru st t o ’
300 RE M I N I SCE NCE S OF I N DI A

th e bru t e p u t t i ng i n an ap p e aranc e b e for e dark S o .

t e ll i ng m y boy t o d e lay di n n e r t ill e igh t I w e n t down ,

and mou n t e d i n t o my p e rch

’

I had n o t b e e n t h e r e a quar t e r o f an hou r wh e n a ,

s t e al t hy
p i t a
p a t warn e d m e of t h e a
- -
pp roach of s om e

s oft foo t e d b e a st
-
T h e r e wa s j u s t s u ffici e n t l igh t t o
.

d i s t ingu i sh obj e c t s ; t h e su n had n o t se t b u t w e w e re ,

i n a vall e y and t h e d e e p gloom of t h e for e s t h e l p e d t o

,

r e nd e r obj e c t s ob s cure A t ig re ss t ro t t e d o n o n e s id e
.
,

wh il s t a t ig e r a pp e ar e d on t h e o t h e r T h e t w o i f n o t .
,

lov e r s w e r e i n t i ma t e acquai n t anc e s ; t h e fe mal e w a s

,

l i cking t h e fac e o f t h e mal e a n d n e i t h e r se e m e d i n a ,

h urry t o com m e nc e o p e ra t ion s o n t h e d e ad bulloc k .

E v e ry mom e n t w a s t o m e p r e c iou s T h e s hadow s .

d e e p e n e d I w a s v e ry h ungry ; s o t aki ng t h e t igr e ss

.
,

b e t w e e n t h e s ho uld e r blad e s I fi r e d down u p o n h e r a s

-
,

s h e w a s almo s t b e n e a t h m y m a c /a w and t h e n ra p idly , ,

s h i ft ing m y aim I knock e d ov e r t h e t ig e r T h e fi rst

, .

n e v e r u t t e r e d a s ound ; t h e se co nd o n g e t t i ng t h e ,

bull e t roar e d blu e m u rd e r b u t E l a p a h qu ickly hand e d

, ,

m e t h e s e co nd ri fl e and wi t h i t I gav e h i m h i s qu i e t u s
, .

G e t t i ng down I cl i mb e d u p t h e s t e e p h ill s id e and w a s

, ,

r e ady for my m e al Th i s w a s t h e mo st wond e rful l uc k

.

I e v e r had i n m a c /z m z sh oo t ing I hav e b e e n oft e n e r

-
.

u n succ e ss ful t han o t h e rwi se ; b u t o n t h i s occa s io n I

had bagg e d a cou p l e of t ig e r s w i t h i n a quar t e r of an
h ou r aft e r s i t t i ng u p .

A ft e r t h i s my l uc k d e se r t e d m e for s om e day s I .

s a w gam e i n p l e n t y and kill e d e nough for all ou r

,

wan t s b u t g o t only a v e ry fe w t ro p h i e s wor t h carryi ng

,

away S o I w e n t o n t o M a d n a i r o n M ay 1 3 O n t h e
. .

followi ng day I m ov e d t o P u r sa g u d e m a long rough , ,

3 02 RE M I N I S CE N CE S 0 1? I NDI A

p l e n t y of car t ridg e s T h e buffalo s e e m e d i m e rvio u s

.
p
t o p ai n and p aid no a t t e n t io n t o h i s wound s un t il a
, ,

s ho t brok e a for e l e h e t h e n b e llow e d for t h e fir s t

g ;
-

t i m e and a t l a st t h e s h i k a r i e w i t h a good sh o t kill e d

, , ,

t h e mo n s t e r .

Th e y lo s t n o t im e i n d e sc e nding and p icki ng m e

u
p . I w a s qu i t e con s ciou s b u t
p aralyz e d M y righ
,
t .

t h igh w a s dou bl e i t s u s ual s i z e ; from t h e groi n t o

th e kn e e t h e r e w a s a d e e p w e l t t h e s ki n t hough , ,

furrow e d b e i ng n o t m uch brok e n only a l i t t l e h e r e

, ,

and t h e r e t h rough wh ich a l i t t l e blood had ooz e d

, .

M y s t rong shoo t i ng bre e ch e s w e r e c u t t h rough b u t -

,

th e whol e s u rfac e of t h e i n s id e of t h e t h igh w a s

black e n e d T h e bru t e had s t ruck m e w i t h h i s full
.

forc e i n t h e abdom e n ; t h e co ncu ss ion had j arr e d t h e

s i ne and r e nd e r e d m e i nca abl e of any m ov e m e n t
p , p .

T h e m e n i m p rov i s e d a l i t t e r and aft e r r e cov e ri ng , ,

my valuabl e e x p r e s s ri fl e carri e d m e t o t h e cam p a t ,

N ilguda A ll my follow e rs b e hav e d sp l e nd i dly se n t

.
,

word ah e ad for r e lay s of cool i e s t o b e r e ady a t e ach

v illag e and goi ng day and n igh t carri e d m e t o
, , ,

j agdal p ur T h e r e I fou n d a na t i v e dr e ss e r a ho s i t al
.
p ,

a s s i s t an t wh o aft e r e xam ina t ion sai d no bon e s w e r e

, , ,

brok e n nor any p e rman e n t i nj ury i n fl ic t e d b u t t ha t I

, ,

m u st l i e u p fo r t h r e e or fou r mo n t h s I und e rw e n t .

no m e dical t r e a t m e n t ; i n abou t t w o mon t h s t h e

numbn e ss b e gan t o w e ar off and i n t hr e e mo n t h s I ,

w a s abl e t o g e t abou t agai n I s e n t E l a p a h back .

aft e rward s t o t r y and r e cov e r t h e h e ad of t h e b e a s t

who had t o sse d m e ; b u t h e s aid t ha t wh e n h e g o t
t h e r e t h e horn s w e r e worm e a t e n and n o t wor t h t h e -
,

r e moval S o I did n o t g e t a s ouv e n i r of t h e uru s

.
 U N P L E AS AN T S O U VE N I RS 39 3

who had b e hav e d in s uch an u n fri e ndl y mann e r to

me .

A l t hough app ar e n t l y I g o t all righ t agai n my back

, , ,

h a s n e v e r b e e n a s s t rong a s b e for e ; now and t h e n i t

al mo st g i v e s way and I am i n ago n i e s for hour s
,
.

B u t man y y e ar s hav e p a ss e d and I am s t ill al i v e

,

and fai rly w e l l i n h e al t h and st ill abl e t o u nd e rgo a

,

’
day s fa t i gu e i n s e arch of gam e .
 [ 30 4 ]

C H A PT E R XI I I .

AD VI CE T O S P OR T S M E N G OI N G AB R OAD .

Ad v a n t a g e s of me dge —N a t i e ide a o f E u op e a n s—P e

di c l k a n o wl e v r r

c a t i o s a ga i st t h e su —W h t t o w e a —U d e c l o t h e s—
u n n n a C l ot h e s r n r

- B oot s — S oc k s e t c —S h o e s fo st l k i g—W a t e p oo fs—S l e e p r a n r r

i g o t h e g o u d— F e v e — c ots — M osq u i t o c t a i s—A

,

n n r nT e tl e — r r s ur n

l i t of a t i c l e s t o t k e —
-

s r Te t s—N a t i e s—M e n a n d wom e —T e e

a n v n r

l e e c h e —W h a t t o w e a t o k e e p t h e m o t —B u yi g a g
—
s r u n un

S e ll i g i t a ga i — G
n p o w
n d e T o h a d
un e b u l l e t s— B e st b l l e t s
r r n u

fo di ffe e t ga m e — W h a t size sh ot t o e —H o w t o k e e p y ou r
'

r r n us

h e a l t h —T ot l b t i e c e —S t i m l
a a s ts —
n N igh t sh oot i n g —H o w
n u an

t o m a k e t h e fo e si gh t i si b l e —
-

r H o w t o o b t a i fi e —H o w t o m a ke
v n r

soa p —
-

Sa it y p e c a tio s
n ar d c l e a l i e ss
r u n an n n .

I F a man wi s h e s t o b e com e a s e cond L i vi ng s t on e o r ,

t o e mula t e t h e t rav e l s of S t anl e y l e t h i m wal k a ,

-

ho sp i t al and l e arn h ow t o t r e a t o rd i nary d i se a se s t o

, ,

am p u t a t e a l imb and t o p e rform o t h e r s im p l e o p e ra

,

t ion s wh ich can all b e l e arn t i n s i x mon t h s H e will .

fi nd s uch knowl e dg e far mor e u se ful t o h i m t han

m on e y A l l na t iv e s wh e t h e r o f A frica o r A s ia firml y
.
, ,

b e l i e v e t ha t a wh i t e m an mu s t b e a m e dical man and ,

t h e mo r e nau s e ou s t h e m e d ic i n e you giv e t h e m t h e ,

b e t t e r t h e y a r e p l e a se d o r con t e n t e d I my se l f b e l i e v e .

i n go ing t o t h e E a s t wh e n a man i s s t ill i n h is t e e n s

v e ry fe w p ubl i c s choolboy s accu st om e d t o c rick e t , ,

foo t ball and o t h e r fi e l d s p o r t s s uffe r from t h e s u n i f

,
-
,
30 6 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I N DI A

A fri ca for an e x t e nd e d t ri p t ak e a t l e a s t fou r p air s of,

t h e se boo t s and t h r e e p a i r s of s t ou t sh o e s b e s id e s
, ,

sl i
pp e r s T h
. e kn i ck e rbock e r s s hould b e long i n t h e

l e g s o a s t o fa s t e n cl o s e t o t h e ankl e j oi n t and t o fi t -
,

t h e l e g accura t e ly O f cour s e your dr e s s mu s t b e

.
,

s i m ilar i n colour t o t h e v e g e t a t ion amon g s t wh ich you

i n t e nd t o hu n t T h re e s had e s o f k h a k ie a r e s uffi ci e n t
—brown l igh t dir t y brown and l igh t gre e n F o r t h e
.

, , .

h igh e r h ill s wh ich a r e cov e r e d wi t h s now wh i t e i s t h e

, ,

b e st F or s t al ki ng i n fore st t ak e s ho e s w i t h s e rra t e d
.
,

i n dia r u b b e r s ol e s you will find t h e m a gr e a t com for t ,

a s t h e y a r e n e arl y no i s e l e ss and d am roof B u r

p p e s e
-
.

t ha t your boo t s and s ho e s fi t you e a s ily for t h e fe e t ,

s w e ll i n h o t cl i m e s and no t h i ng i s s o un l e a s an t a s a
, p
boo t t ha t p i nch e s .

Y ou can g e t v e ry n ic e boo t s fa l ook a t mad e i n ,

I ndia for a fe w ru p e e s b u t avo id t h e m a s t h e l e a t h e r

, , ,

i s l i t t l e b e t t e r t h an b rown p a p e r A bou t N ag p or e .

e xc e l l e n t s ambu r s ki n w e ll t ann e d can b e p rocur e d

, , .

Th i s w h e n mad e u p for ridi ng boo t s and gai t e r s i s

,
-
,

ca p i t al I t i s a p i t y i t canno t b e ob t ain e d i n E nglan d

. .

A wat e rp roof coa t and l e ggi ng s and a c a p t o fi t o n t o ,

t h e h e l m e t s hould al s o form p ar t of o n e s k i t fo r t h e
,

t ro p ic s R e m e mb e r n e v e r t o s i t i n dam p clo t h e s or
.
,

allow t h e m t o dry o n you i n t h e w i nd C ha n g e if .

you can a t on c e I f you canno t t h e n p u t o n e i t h e r

.
,

a wrap or a wat e r p roof I f you don t follow t h i s adv i c e

.

you will g e t fe v e r t o a c e r t ai n t y A l i t t l e t im e l y d i s .

comfor t and p r e cau t ion m ay av e r t se riou s con se qu e nc e s .

N e v e r s l e e p o n t h e ground T r e s t l e co t s mad e by
.
-

E dgi ng t on of D uk e S t r e e t wi t h an e x t ra larg e w a t e r
, ,

p roof s un s had e w i t h a cou p

,
l e o f mo s qu i t o cur t ai n s -
,
 OU TF I T 30 7

on e ne t an d on e m u sl i n a r e o u t a n d o u t t h e b e st
, .

*
H av e a r a z z ze t o p u t und e r you and an a i r p i ll ow fo r ,
-

y o u r h e ad b u t t ak e a l i gh t hammock a s w e ll .

LI ST or A R T I CL E S R E Q U I R E D FOR A T RI P .

I f you w i sh t o b e com for t abl e and e nj oy sp or t you

m u st l iv e w e ll and had b e t t e r b e p rovid e d w i t h all
,

t ha t i s r e qu i s i t e

6 flan n e l s h ir t s u n sh r i n kabl e
, .

4 s h i r t s o f flan n e l a n d s ilk .

8 I nd ian gauz e v e s t s .

8 p ai r s good m e r i no sock s wi t h d oubl e h e e l s a n d t oe s , .

2 p air s kn ick e rbock e r s t ock i ng s .

2 p ai r s long clo se ly wov e n S il k st ock i n g s gr e e n i s h

,
-
,

t in t .

6 p ai r s of p yjama s and 6 n igh t j ack e t s all v e ry l oo se

, , .

I 8 p ock e t handk e rch i e fs

-
.

I l e a t h e r s u i t com p l e t e w i t h p l e n t y of p ock e t s i n t h e ,

c oa t
’
3 sui t s of g a b a r di n e r o n e brown on e , ,
k h a k ie , on e

gr e e n .

2 p air s l igh t ordi nary t rou s e r s .

2 d oubl e br e a s t e d coa t s l igh t ma t e rial

-
,
.

2
p air s brac e s .

I broad l e a t h e r b e l t .

I sh ikar b e l t fi t t e d by Th ornh ill

, .

2 h e l me ts E llwood s for ch oic e ’

.

I s oft wid e awak e -

.

R a z z ze
'

— q il t li d wi th
a u ne c ot t o n

—p
.

‘
r G a ba r d
’

zn e bl f r oc u r a e rom B u rb u r y of Re a d ing .
393 RE M I N I SCE NC E S OF I NDI A

D
’

4 p ai r s e an s fi e ld boo t s ra t h e r larg e a s fe e t, s w e ll in ,

t h e t ro p ic s .

2
p ai r s ankl e boo t s -
.

2 p ai r s l e a t h e r gai t e r s u p t o t h e kn e e ; 2 fl i n t s and ,

s t e e l and t ind e r .

2
p air s e asy sl i
pp e r s I
p a i r s t ou t d i tt o .

3 p ai r s of s ho e s w i t h i n dia r u b b e r s ol e s .

I l igh t wa t e r roof coa t l e gging s and cov e r for h e l m e t

p
-
.
,

A larg e l ong handl e d umbr e lla for u s e i n howdah s

,
-
.

I canva s hold all con t ai ni ng comb s t oo t h bru sh e s

-
, ,
-
,

razor s a s t ro p s oa p n e e dl e s t hr e ad bu t t o n s
, , , , , ,

s ci s s or s e nkn ife a kn if e wi t h cork s cr e w

p , , .

1 2 t ow e l s — larg e ; 4 larg e T urki s h t ow e l s fo r s crub

bing aft e r ba t h i ng .

2
p air s ba t h i ng draw e r s -
.

1 2 na ki n s 2 t abl e clo t h s
p .

1 B e r t ho n s colla p s ibl e i n di a r u b b e r boa t and oar s .

6 i nfla t e d rubb e r s u pp or t s for t ho se u nabl e t o s wi m t o

cro ss riv e r s .

2 0 0 yard s of t h i n b u t v e ry s t rong cord .

6 ball s of t wi n e .

4 wa t e r p roof s h e e t s wi t h e y e l e t s fro m 8 fe e t t o 1 2 f eet ,

s quar e .

’
Pack t hr e ad and sail mak e r s n e e dl e s
- -
.

R ock e t s a n d o t h e r fir e work s .

A good magic lan t e rn wi t h di ss olvi ng v i e w s t o a st o n ish

-

na t iv e s .

I f you can l e arn a fe w conj uri ng t rick s so much t h e

be tte r .

A p ho t ogra p h ic app ara t u s and dry p la t e s L e arn i t s .

u s e t horoughly .

A cam e ra lucida for u se i f u nabl e t o s k e t ch from na t ure ,

.
310 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I N DI A

C am p t abl e s and chai rs .

Wa sh i ng st and and rubb e r ba s i n

-
.

A n i n d ia r u b b e r ba t h .

A se t o f block t i n s auc e p an s t o fi t o n e i n s id e t h e
-
,

ot he r .

I fryi ng an r e movabl e handl e

p
-
.
,

4 block -
t i n
p o t s o n Warr e n s
p ri nc i p l e t o b e clam p e d ,

t og e t h e r O n e p o t r e s t s w i t h i n t h e o t h e r t h e re
.
,

b e i ng a sp ac e for wa t e r b e t w ee n t h e t w o .

T i n s of bi s cu i t s M il k or wa t e r . .

T i n s of cond e n se d m il k .

T i n s of ch e e se (ch e ddar ) .

A n e x t ra wa t ch or t w o .

A clock wi t h alarum .

T r e st l e c o t s u n shad e and cu r t ai n s my p a t t e rn
-
, , .

’
L e a and P e rri n s Worc e s t e r s auc e .

T i n s of mu s h room s black Worc e s t e r s h i r e b e i ng t h e ,

b e st .

T i n s of baki ng p owd e r -
.

C arvi ng kn iv e s and fo rk s .

Pla t e d ware for t abl e u se .

B lock t i n p la t e s of variou s k i nd s ; t e acu p s e t c

-
, .

A C ars on s s al t ing mach i n e

’
-
.

A s mall m e a t sa w -
.

A p e st l e and mor t ar .

T i n s of s ul t ana s rai s i n s and curran t s , .

T i n s of s ugar t e a and coffe e clov e s cardamo m s

, , , ,

coriand e r s e e d p e p p e r s al t al mond s saffro n , , , , ,

t urm e ri c d ri e d ch ill i e s c i n namon p e p p e rcor n s

, , , ,

garl i c gr e e n gi ng e r
, .

B arr i e s M adra s curry p a st e M ull iga t awny p a st e a n d

’
-
, ,

l i m e p ickl e .
 OUT FI T 31 1

T i n s of v e al c u t l e t s and t oma t o s auc e -

.

W il s on s C h i cago b e e f
’

S t ra s burg p o t t e d m e a t s .

O xford s au sag e s i n t i n s
B aco n i n square t in s t h in p ai n t e d y e llow —fo r b re ak
.

, ,

fa st a s p r e p are d by C ro sse and B lack w e ll Re

, .

j e c t all t h ic k t in s .

S mall ham s r e ady cook e d i n t i n s , .

O x t ongu e s .

I ri s h s t e w i n t i n s .

V e g e t abl e s of s or t s i n t i n s .

T i n s of ox t ail s ou p D o n t forg e t a t i n O p e n e r or t wo
-
.
’
-
.

L am p s candl e s co u r t p la st e r d iachylon p la st e r
, ,
-
, .

P ap ze r f a y a r d i s i n valuabl e fo r cu t s
'

H olloway s p ill s and o i n t m e n t

’

B lack draugh t s fo r na t i v e s .

Bl u e p ill s m u st ard p la s t e rs
,
-
.

Tak e e x t ra p ow d e r s ho t and bull e t s wad s and cap s

, , .

T h e ba t t e ry i s m e n t io n e d e l s e wh e r e .

E ach gun and ri fl e s hould hav e i t s wa t e rp roof ca se

and s l i ng I con s id e r ham m e rl e ss w e ap o n s t h e b e s t
. .

A good s h i kar kn i fe i s e s s e n t ial A ll ri fl e s s houl d .

hav e t h e low e s t t raj e c t ory p o ss ibl e and b e fin e ly ,

s igh t e d and w e ll t e s t e d J udging d i s t anc e s i s v e ry .

di ffi c u l t ; mo re an imal s a r e m i sse d t h rough m i st ak e s

i n t h i s r e sp e c t t han fro m any o t h e r cau s e I t is a .

d i fficul t knack t o acqu ir e E v e ry ri fl e S houl d carry .

p oi n t blank u p t o t w o h undr e d yard s o r a s n e ar t ha t a s

-
,

p o ss i bl e H av. e t h e s igh t s of yo u r ri fl e s aft e r t e s t i ng , ,

s cr e w e d i n t o t h e rib .

I f yo u dri n k fre s h t oddy e i t h e r fro m t h e da t e ,

31 2 RE M I N I SC E N CE S OF I NDI A

Pal myra o r cocoanu t i t i s whol e s om e and r e fr e sh i ng

, .

A vo id i t wh e n fe rm e n t e d .

I f you ru n shor t of clo t h ing mad e for you i n E ng

land you can g e t v e ry fai r s h ikar clo t h e s from t h e
,

B a s il M i ss ion i n C an nano re b u t t h e y do n o t w e ar v e ry
,

w e ll T h e n a t iv e t ailor s a r e v e ry cl e v e r and i f s u p
.
,

p l i e d wi t h a p a t t e rn w ill co y i t e xac t l y
p A M r J J . . .

M e yric k w ri t i ng i n t h e S /I ooz zn g T i m e s r e co mm e nd s
‘
'

, ,

t rou s e r s o f v e ry fi n e l y wov e n E ngl i s h cordu roy a s

i m p e n e t rabl e fo r t h e t r e e l e e ch e s and i t al s o r e s i s t s
-
,

t h e barb s of t h e se e d of s p e ar gra ss T h i s I h av e n o t
-
.

t ri e d b u t
,
wh ich h e r e co mm e nd s a s al mo s t ,

i f n o t qui t e i m p e rviou s t o bo t h l e e ch e s and sp e ar gra ss

,
-
,

I 122 0 6 t ri e d m any t i m e s and my e x p e ri e nc e of i t i s

,

n o t t h e s am e a s h i s I hav e n e v e r fou nd any t h ing

.

t ha t could k e e p o u t t h e t r e e l e e ch for any l e ng t h of

-

t im e . H e s ay s al s o t ha t h e found if h e s a t ura t e d h i s
s ock s wi t h s al t wa t e r t h e l e e ch e s avoid e d t h e m ; b u t
,

I h av e t ri e d t ha t and t h e crud e p e t rol e um B o t h .

an s w e r e d for a t i m e b u t i n walking t h rough gra ss

,

r e e king w i t h d e w t h e i ngr e di e n t s w e r e wa sh e d o u t ,

an d t h e l e e ch e s s oon found t h e i r way i n .

F o r gun s an d ri fl e s I hav e al re ady r e com m e nd e d a

ba t t e ry Th e r e a r e s o man y mak e r s of r e p u t e t ha t i t
.

s ou nd s i nv idiou s t o r e comm e nd o n e i n r e fe r e nc e t o
p
ano t h e r y e t i t i s only fai r t o s p e ak o f a fi rm t ha t h a s
,

s e rv e d o n e w e ll Th e r e i s s carc e ly a mak e r o f no t e
.

who se gu n s I hav e n o t had I n buyi ng a gu n r e m e m .

b e r you may wi s h t o p ar t wi t h i t agai n s om e day and ,

t h e nam e of a favouri t e mak e r carri e s gr e a t w e igh t .

I t may co s t you mor e i n t h e fir s t i n s t anc e b u t i t w i ll ,

al s o r e al i z e more t han a gu n p e rhap s e qually a s good ,

3 14 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I N DI A
wad s and cap s wi t h you b u t t ru s t t o t h e load e d ,

car t ridg e s p ri nci p ally Th e s e s hould all b e i n ai r

.

t igh t ca s e s n o t s old e r e d down

, e ach ca se t o w e igh ,

n o t m or e t han fift y ou nd s
p .

A sol id l e ad e n bull e t i s t h e b e s t for t h e larg e r gam e .

F or p ach yd e rm s s uch a s e l e p han t s rh i noc e ro s e s

, , ,

h i pp o p o t am i an d buffalo e s u s e hard e n e d bul l e t s

, , .

Q ui ck s il v e r i s t h e b e s t t o u se for t ha t p ur p o se b u t ,

’
don t p u t i n mor e t han a t w e l ft h p ar t and don t k e e p -
,
’

i t t o o long i n t h e mol t e n l e ad a s i t qu ickly e va p ora t e s , .

T h i s add s t o t h e w e igh t o f t h e bull e t wh il s t a m ix t ur e ,

of t i n l e s se n s i t I f you add t o o m uch qu ick s ilv e r t h e

.

bul l e t s b e com e bri t t l e and fl y t o p i e c e s o n im p ac t

, .

F o r d e e r u s e hollow e x p an s i v e bull e t s fir e d o u t of an
,

e x r e ss
p . T h e m o s t u se fu l gaug e i s N 0 12 b e cau se .
,

s h e ll s of t ha t cal i br e can b e o t al mo s t e v e rywh e r e i n

g
o ur colon i e s I my se lf for s mal l gam e s hoo t ing p r e fe r
.
,
-
,

a s i x t e e n bor e t o p l e v e r s na p ac t io n I n F ranc e and

-
.

abroad g e n e rall y car t ridg e s of t h i s bor e can b e g o t

n ow mor e e a s ily t han t h e larg e r b u t i n I ndia and ,

A frica i t i s d i ffe r e n t F or s n i p e and quail wh e n t h e y

.
,

l i e w e ll I u s e N o 1 0 s ho t ; i f t h e y a r e w ild N o 8 ;
,
.
,
.

fo r har e s and p ar t ridg e s N O 6 fo r duck gu i n e a fowl,

.
,
-
,

and flo r i k a n N O 4 ; for bu s t ard s and g e e se N o 2

,
.
,
.

fo r woodcock and t e al N o 7 M o s t w e a p on s s hoo t ,

. .

s mall s ho t s b e t t e r t han big b u t t h e s h o t m u st b e i n

,

ro or t io n t o t h e S iz e of t h e gam e fir e d a t
p p .

I n I ndia t e n t s can b e p urcha se d wh ich a r e m ore

s ui t abl e fo r t h e cl i ma t e t han t ho se mad e i n E ngland ,

b e cau s e t h e y r e s i s t t h e h e a t b e t t e r T ho se mad e a t .

J ubbul p or e a r e t h e b e s t b u t t h e y a r e v e ry h e avy As
,
.

t h e r e a r e alway s t o p e s of t r e e s fo r p i t ch i ng a t e n t
 M AN AG E M E NT O F H E AL TH 315

u nd e r I s hould advi s e t h e o rd e r b e ing g i v e n t o

,

E dgi ng t on wh o h a s had gre a t e x p e ri e nc e hav i ng

, ,

su l i e d t rav e ll e r s and s or t s m e n for y e ar s a t i n

pp p p s

A fri ca and h i s a r e l igh t e r and mor e wa t e rp roof t han

,

I ndian on e s .

M e n i n robu st h e al t h p r e fe r for ba t h i ng p u rp o se s
t h e cold e s t wa t e r t h e y can g e t b u t i f you a r e a t all ,

i ncl i n e d t o b e u nw e ll o r a r e g e t t i ng o n i n l i fe u s e
, ,

t e p id wa t e r A t u b i s a n e c e ss i t y i n all h o t cl i ma t e s
.
,

b u t i t n e e d n o t b e ov e rdon e K e e p your h e ad cool

.
,

yo ur fe e t dry and your bow e l s o p e n i s a v e ry good

, ,

r e c e t I d e t e s t all m e dici n e s t hough o n e i s forc e d

p p .
,

t o t ak e a do s e now and t h e n b u t t h e l e s s you t ak e ,

t h e be t te r . M od e ra t i on i n e a t i ng and dri nki ng w i t h ,

p l e nt y o f o u t door e x e rci s e will k ee

, p mo st m e n i n
h e al t h W e r e ad of no s t rum s t ha t a r e s u p p o se d t o
.

cu r e e v e ry il l a man woman or ch ild i s s ubj e c t t o ;

,

b u t com mon s e n se w ill p rov e t h e ab s urdi t y of s uch a

-

t h e o ry . W e h e ar of p ill s wor t h a gui n e a a bo x wh ich

a r e r e t ail e d a t a s h ill ing D o e s anybody s u pp o s e t ha t
.

t h e se a r e b e t t e r t han t h e t hou s an d s i m i lar no s t rum s

ad v e r t i se d daily ? A man h a s onl y t o adv e r t i se If .

h i s p ill s a r e b u t br e ad cov e r e d wi t h a coa t i ng o f s om e

noxiou s drug h e w ill fi nd fool s t o p u rcha s e t h e m and
,

t o b e l i e v e i n t h e i r e ffi cacy E ffe rv e s ci ng c i t ra t e of
.

m agn e s ia i s a good m ild ap e ri e n t n o t un p l e a san t t o ,

t ak e .

I do n o t b e l i e v e in bl u e ribbo n i s m fo r t h e t ro p ic s ;
t o t al ab s t i n e nc e i s a s bad a s e xc e s s iv e d ri n ki ng N0 .

man can u nd e rgo e xc e ss iv e e x e rci se day aft e r d a y

w i t hou t s t im ulan t s of som e ki nd T h e wa t e r p r o .

cu rabl e i s g e n e rally bad and i n i t a r e g e rm s of variou s

,
3 16 RE M I NI SCE NCE S OF I NDI A

di se a se s t h e v e ry wo rs t b e i ng t h e gui n e a worm B e e r
,
-
.
,

e sp e cially lag e r i s t h e b e s t for t h e t ro p ic s b u t i t i s t o o

, ,

bul ky t o carry abou t Wh i s ky i s t h e b e st and mo s t

.

whol e s o m e of s p iri t s T h e K ar e n s mak e e xc e ll e n t

.

s/zcz m s/zo o u t of ric e wh ich i s j u st a s p l e a s an t and a s

,

whol e s om e a s wh i s ky .

F or n igh t shoo t i ng i f you mu st r e sor t t o t ha t mod e

,

of slaying or t ryi ng t o s lay gam e u se lu m i nou s p ai n t ,

.

I hav e t ri e d e v e ry d odg e b u t no n e s ucc e e d e d so w e ll ,

a s th e
p ain t . D O wha t you w ill e v e n by t h e brigh t e s t ,

of moonl igh t t h e for e s igh t i f l e ft al on e i s i nvi s ibl e b u t

,
-
,

by u s i ng t h e l um i nou s p ai n t you can se e i t I f you .

hav e a s t ock of fi r e fli e s and can s t i ck o n e o n t h e

-
,

for e s igh t wi t h t h e t ail e n d u pp e rmo s t gum m i ng t h e

-
,

b e a st o n t o i t s back t h e fl ick e ring l igh t w il l b e a good

,

guid e ; b u t wh e n yo u wan t t h e s e i n se c t s you can no t

’
al way s fi nd t h e m ; t h e y do n t k e e p al iv e lo ng i n con
fi n e m e n t and o nc e d e ad a r e u s e l e ss
,
B u t n igh t .

s hoo t i ng un d e r t h e m o s t advan t ag e ou s ci rcum s t anc e s

i s m o s t u nc e r t ai n T h e d i sadvan t ag e s a r e gr e a t ; far
.

mor e b e a st s a r e m i ss e d or wo un d e d t han kill e d and ,

you a r e v e ry l iabl e t o con t rac t fe v e r T h e mo s qu i t o e s .

d e vou r you all n igh t and you dar e n o t mov e a l i mb t o

,

dri v e t h e m off I t i s p oor wo rk a t t h e b e s t b u t h a s

.
,

t o b e r e s o r t e d t o a t t i m e s a s t h e o n ly m e an s p e rha p s , ,

of riddi ng t h e n e ighbou rhood O f a p e st .

Tak e ma t ch e s b u t n o t t o o many for fe ar of com

, ,

b u st io n. Tak e t w o k ind s— o n e t ha t w il l s t rik e on

any t h i ng and t h e o t h e r t ha t ign i t e s o n t h e box alon e
,

t h i s i s t o a st on i s h t h e na t iv e s I f an A frican s e e s you .

ign i t e a ma t ch by rubbi ng i t along you r t rou se rs t e ll ,

h i m i t i s j a do or magi c G iv e h i m o n e O f t h e o t h e r
, .
 31 8 RE M I N I SC E N C E S OF I NDI A

a sh e s ] T i nd e r can b e mad e fro m in s id e t h e bark of

t h e wild fi g t r e e -
dri e d and p ul v e rized T h e r e w a s
, .

no l i m e s t on e b u t t h e riv e r p roduc e d a p l e n t i ful s u pp ly

,

of larg e oy s t e r sh e ll s t ha t i f burn t would yi e ld e x c e ll e n t

-

l i m e accordi ngly I co n s t ruc t e d a kil n w i t h t h e a ss i s t ,

anc e of t h e wh i t e an t s T h e cou n t ry w a s i nfe s t e d

.

wi t h t h e s e cre a t u r e s wh ich had e r e ct e d t h e i r dw e ll i ng s

,

i n al l d ir e c t ion s Th e r e w e r e con e s from s i x t o t e n

.

fe e t high form e d o f clay s o t horoughl y c e m e n t e d by a

,

gl u t i nou s p re p ara t ion of t h e i n s e c t s t ha t i t w a s hard e r

t han su n bak e d brick s
-
[ T h e s e a n t h ill s a r e
.
p l e n t iful -

all ov e r A frica and I ndi a ] I s e l e c t e d an e g g s ha p e d -

h ill an d c u t off t h e t o p e xac t l y a s w e t ak e O ff t h e sl ic e

, ,

from an e g g M y T o k r oo r ie s t h e n wo rk e d hard a n d
.
, ,

wi t h a h o e and t h e i r lanc e s t h e y h ollow e d i t o u t t o ,

t h e ba s e ,
i n sp i t e of t h e a t t ack s of t h e s old i e r an t s ,

wh i ch p un i sh e d t h e l e g s of t h e i n t rud e r s con s i d e rably .

I now mad e a draugh t hol e fro m t h e o u t s id e ba se a t

-
,

righ t angl e s wi t h t h e bo t t om o f t h e hollow con e [ A .

s i m ilar kil n can b e ma d e i n clay e y s oil o n t h e s id e of

a h ill by s car p i ng i t and o t h e rwi se do ing a s r e c o m

,

m e nd e d by S i r S amu e l ] M y kil n w a s p e rfe c t ; I .

load e d i t wi t h wood u p on wh ich I p il e d abou t s ix

,

bu sh e l s of oy s t e r sh e ll s wh ich I t h e n cov e r e d wi t h
-
,

fu e l and k e p t i t bu rn ing for t w e n t y fou r hou rs [ A ny

,
-
.

sh e ll s o r coral w ill mak e e xc e ll e n t l im e by burn in

g ]
I comm e nc e d m y s oa p boil i ng W e p o sse sse d an
-
.

i mm e n se co p p e r p o t of E gy p t ian manu fac t ure i n a d

d i t ion t o a larg e co pp e r ba s i n call e d a t e sk e t h e se
“

would con t ai n t e n gallon s T h e l e y hav ing b e e n

.

boil e d dow n t o gr e a t s t r e ng t h I add e d a quan t i t y of ,

’
l i m e and t h e n e c e s sary fa t I t r e qu ire d t w o hou rs .
 GE N E R AL R U LE S 319

boil i ng combi n e d w i t h car e ful manag e m e n t of t h e fi r e

, ,

a s i t woul d fr e qu e n t ly a s c e nd l ik e foam and ov e rflow ,

t h e e dg e s o f t h e u t e n s il s H ow e v e r a t l e ng t h havi ng
.
, ,

b e e n con s t an t ly s t i rr e d i t t urn e d t o s oap B e fo re i t

, .

b e cam e cold I form e d i t i n t o cak e s and ball s wi t h m y

,

hand s and t h e r e s ul t of t h e manufac t u re w a s a w e igh t

,

o f abou t for t y p ound s of mo s t e xc e ll e n t soap of a v e ry

s or t i ng d e s cri t ion
p p
— sa w ! d [ a 0 722 2 f e z or e W e /
t hu s .

wa sh e d wi t h rh i noc e ro s s oap ; our lam p w a s t rim m e d

wi t h o il of l io n s ou r bu t t e r for cooki ng p u rp o se s w a s
t h e fa t of h i pp o p o t am i ; wh il e ou r p omad e w a s mad e

fro m t h e marrow o f bu ffalo e s and an t e lo p e s sc e n t e d ,

’
wi t h t h e blo ss om s of m i mo sa s .

I f you ru n o u t of candl e s p rocur e b e e s wax t o b e

, ,

g ot e v e rywh e r e i n A fri ca and t h e wild s of I ndia ;

mak e wick s o u t of co t t o n t h r e a d s or s c ra p i ng s of clo t h

-

s un
p t og e the r S u s e nd
.
p t h e se fro m a h e igh t i n t o
hollow bamboo s t h e u pp e r p ar t b e ing o p e n a nd a
, ,

s mall a e r t ur e
p o nly i n t h e j o i n t b e low t o k e e
p t h e

wick i n t h e c e n t re ; p our i n t h e m e l t e d wax and you ,

will h av e v e ry se rvic e abl e candl e s I hav e had t h e s e .

ma d e for m e by K ar e n s i n o u t o f t lI e way p ar t s o f - - -

B u rma wh e n my se rvan t s hav e e i t h e r fo rgo t t e n t o

bri ng a su ffi ci e n t s u pp l y wi t h t h e m o r l o st wha t t h e y
had .

I f you wi s h t o p re se rv e you r t e e t h u se dail y a ,

s il v e r t o n gu e s cra e r
p
-
C .l e an you r t e e t h morn ing and

e v e n i ng u s ing e i t h e r cam ho ra t e d chal k or t h e fi n e s t

,
p
charcoal pa sse d t h rough fi n e m u sl i n or a v e ry fi n e
si e ve .

A ccu st om your se l f t o go t o b e d p r e t t y e arly Al l .

’
h e al t hy m e n fi nd a fe w h ou rs un i n t e rru p t e d s l e e p am p l e ,
320 RE M I N I S CE N C E S OF I NDI A
and t h e y will fe e l fr e s h e r i f t h e y t h e n g e t u p o n waki ng
t han i f t h e y t u rn ov e r and s l e e p o n for a cou p l e of

h our s m or e . To e nj oy l i fe i n t h e t ro p ic s you s hould ,

b e u p an hou r b e for e daybr e ak and s t ar t fo r a rid e o r

,

fo r a wal k o r s t al k a t t h e fir s t gl i m p se of dayl igh t I f .

yo u can g e t fr e s h t oddy (j u ic e of t h e pal m ) drin k i t ,

e arly daily
, . N e v e r t ouch i t a ft e r fe rm e n t a t ion M any .

of t h e A fri can s mak e a v e ry good s ub s t i t u t e for b e e r

from p lan t ai n s and o t h e r na t iv e p roduc e wh il s t a s I , ,

hav e s ai d e l se wh e r e t h e s/zczm s/zo mad e by t h e K ar e n s

,

an d S han s fro m ric e di s t ill e d i s a s p ala t abl e and a s

good a s t h e b e s t wh i s ky W h e n hu n t i ng vary you r
’

.
,

food a s much a s p o ss ibl e ; e a t v e g e t abl e s wh e n you

can g e t t h e m I ndian s m ak e d e l i c i o u s c u r r i e s fro m
.
'

v e g e t abl e s alon e D o n o t b e afraid of t h e su n wi t h a

.
,

good cov e ri ng t o t h e h e ad M an s fi e ld Parki n s s ay s

.

t ha t duri ng h i s s e v e n y e ar s wand e ri ng s i n A by ss i n ia
’

, ,

h e wor e n o cov e ring t o h i s h e ad e xc e p t i ng t h e s can t y

,

h e ad o f hai r God had giv e n h im and an occa s ional ,

a t o f bu t t e r wh e n h e could e t it T ha t may do for

p g .

t h e h ighland s of E t h io p ia b u t n o t for t h e p lai n s o f

,

I ndia o r A fri ca .
3 22 RE MI N I SCE N CE S OF I N DI A
buy th e in g re di e n t s a n d l e t y o u r c oo k p re p a re t h e c ondi
m e n t s b y w h i c h m e a n s y o u will g e t a n e w c u rry d a il y
,

i n st e a d o f h a vi n g t o st ic k t o o n e k i n d o n ly .

G IB LE T S OUP .

S c a ld l n t h e g i b l e t s o f a goo se o r a p a ir o f du c k s
d
—a p i n t fo r e a c h se t —
an c ea ,

s t e w t h e m i n wa t e r t ill t h e y a r e q u i t e
t e n d e r or wi t h a n e c k o f m u t t o n o r a c ou p l e o f p o u n d s o f
, ,

g ra vy b e e f t h r e e o n io n s a b u n c h o f swe e t h e r b s a n d 4 p i n t s o f
-
, ,

wa t e r S t e w t h e m u n t il t h e g i zz a rds a r e q u i t e t e n de r t h e n
. ,

r e move a n d se t a s id e ; a dd mo r e st oc k if n e c e ssa r y t o t h e
so u p F l a vo u r wi t h m u sh room s o r H a rv e y o r W orc e st e r
.
,

sa u c e and a,
li t t l e b u t t e r rol l e d in a rrowroot o r fl ou r t o
t h i c ke n it T h e g izz a rd s o f a ll g a m e b ird s wi l l a n swe r
.
- .

O x - T AI L S O U P .

O n e t a il i s fi i
m a k e so u p fo r fou r o r fi v e p e rso n s
su f c e n t to .

D ivid e t h e t a il a t t h e j oi n t s a n d so a k t h e m i n w a r m w a t e r
,

i f t h e b o n e s a r e p a r t i a lly sa w e d a c ro s s t h e y will g iv e m or e ,

s t r e n g t h t o t h e so u p P u t i n t o a st e wp a n t h e s li c e s o f t h e
.

t a il a n d fr y t h e m a li t t l e ; t h e n a d d a fe w c lov e s wi t h a
,

c o u p l e o f l a r g e o n io n s a b u n c h o f sw e e t h e r b s s om e b l a c k
, ,

e p p e r a n d a b l a de o f m a c e C ov e r t h e w h ol e wi t h w a t e r
p .
,

a n d a s i t b oil s k e e p re movi n g t h e sc u m w h il st a n y ri se s ;
,

t h e n r e p l a c e t h e c ov e r c lo se a n d se t t h e p ot o n t h e s id e o f,

t h e fi r e t o s i m m e r g e n t l y fo r t w o o r t h r e e h o u r s u n t i l t h e
m e a t i s t e n d e r w h e n r e m ove a n d c u t i n t o s m a ll p i e c e s l a y
, ,

i n g t h e m o n o n e s id e S t r a i n t h e b r o t h t h ro u gh a c lot h o r
.

s i e v e a d d a g l a s s o f wi n e wi t h a c o u p l e o f sp oo n fu l s o f m u s h
,

roo m k e t c h u p o r H a rve y sa u c e o r o n e o f so y ; r e t u rn t h e
-
,

m e a t i n t o t h e so u p t o g ive i t a b oil u p I f y o u wi sh t h e .

so u p t o b e t h i c k t a k e a c o u p l e o f sp oo n fu l s o f t h e c l e a r fa t
,

t h a t h a s b e e n r e m ov e d mix i t i n t o a p a st e wi t h fl o u r a n d
, ,

a d d t h e w a rm b ro t h b y d e g r e e s st ir r i n g i t q u i t e s m oo t h a n d , ,

l e t i t S i m m e r for a s h ort t i m e Or a dd a li t t l e a rrowroo t wi t h

t h e wi n e a n d sa u c e H a ve r e a dy s o m e n i c e ly c u t c a rrot s
.
-
,

t u r n i p s a n d s m a ll o n ion s (t i n n e d o n e s wil l d o ) p r e p a r e d
, ,

a n d b oil e d
p vio u sly w h i c h a dd t o t h e so u p a m i n u t e o r
r e ,

t w o b e fo r e se rvi n g T w o or t h r e e slic e s o f b a c on or h a m
.
 RE CI PE S 323

l a id at b ot t om o f t h e
th e st e wp a n wi t h t h e m e a t wil l i n c r e a se
th e fl a vou r o f t h e so u p . T h e t a il o f a n y wild b u ll o r d e e r
will do .

CH I CK E
TH N B RO .

C l e a n a n d divid e t h e c h i c k e n i n t o q u a rt e r s a ft e r h a vi n g ,

r e m ove d t h e S k i n a n d r u m p Ad d a b l a d e o f m a c e a sm a ll
.
,

o n ion s li c e d a n d t e n w h i t e p e p p e rc or n s wi t h a q u a r t o f
, ,

wa t e r S imm e r t ill t h e b r ot h b e su ffi c i e n t ly r e d u c e d a n d o f
.

a p l e a sa n t fl a vo u r ; r e m ov e t h e fa t a s i t ri s e s ; se a so n wi t h

sa l t . A li t t l e c h o pp e d p a r sl e y m a y b e a dd e d T h i s b r ot h .

m a y a l so b e m a d e o f sn i p e q u a il p a r t r id g e s
, , .

S AU C E FOR G AM E ,
D UCK, S N I P E , E TC .

T a ke h a l f a p i n t o f c l e a r g r a vy c u t i n t o i t t h e t h i n p e e l o f
,

a lim e a fe w l e a ve s o f b a s il o r sa g e
, wi t h a sm a l l sli c e d ,

o n io n L e t i t b oil u n t i l t h e g ra vy i s fl a vou r e d t h e n st r a in i t
.
,

o ff. Ad d t h e j u i c e o f t h e l i m e som e c a ye n n e p e p p e r a , ,

g l a ss o f r e d wi n e p e p p e r a n d sa l t, ,S e n d i t u p h ot . .

S a vo u ry h e r b s m u st b e t a k e n t h e y c a n se ldom b e g o t i n t h e
wilds .

S T E AK P I E -
.

Cu t t h e st e a k o ff a r u m p o r a n y o t h e r g ood p a r t o f t h e
b e e f (b e a t i t wi t h t h e rolli n g p i n ) fa t a n d l e a n t o g e t h e r -
, ,

a b ou t h a l f a n i n c h t h i c k ; p u t ov e r i t sa l t p e p p e r a n d , ,

p a r b oil e d o n io n s mi n c e d or
,
g r a t e d b r e a d se a son e d wi t h

e e r s a lt a n d p i c k l e d c u c u m b e r mi n c e d ; roll i t u p o r
p pp , ,

a c k it n e a t ly i n t o t h e di sh or la y t h e b e e f i n s li c e s ;
p ,

a dd so m e s p oo n fu l s o f g r a vy a n d a t e a sp oo n fu l o f vi n e g a r .

C ove r wi t h a p u ff p a st e a n d b a k e i t fo r a n h o u r I n D e vo n .

s h ir e sli c e s o f a pp l e a n d o n io n s a r e a dd e d w h e n i t i s c a ll e d ,

sq u a b p i e T h e fl e s h o f t h e sa m b u r o r o f a n y d e e r w ill
.

a n swe r a s w e ll .

M AR R O W -
B ONE S .

S aw th e b o n e s e ve n s o t h a t t h e y will st a n d st e a dy ; p u t a
,

i e c e o f p a st e ov e r t h e e n d s se t t h e m u p r i gh t i n a s a u c e p a n
p , ,

a n d b oil t il l t h e y a r e do n e e n o u gh A b e e f m a r r ow b o n e -
.

w ill r e q u ir e fro m a n h o u r a n d a h a l f t o t w o h o u r s S e rv e .
3 24 RE M I N I S CE N CE S OF I NDI A
fre sh t o a st e d b re a d wi t h t h e m B on e s from t h e g a u r wi l d .
,

c a t t le
,
b u ffa lo a n d sa m b u r a n d mo st l a r g e d e e r a n sw e r , ,

a dmir a b l
y .

P I C K L E F O R B E E F H AM O R T O N G U E , .

B oil t o g e t h e r fo r t we n t y mi n u t e s 2 g a llo n s o f w a t e r ,

3 p o u n d s b a y s a l t 2 p o u n d s c ommo n sa l t 2 p ou n d s co a r se
, ,

s u g a r 2 o u n c e s s a l t p e t r e a n d 2 o u n c e s b l a c k p e p p e r b r u i se d
, , ,

a n d t i e d i n a fo l d o f m u sli n ; c l e a r o ff t h e s c u m t h oro u gh ly

a s i t r i se s
p ou r t h e p i c k l e i n t o a t u b o r a d e e p e a rt h e n p a n
, ,

a n d wh e n i t i s q u i t e c old l a y i n t h e m e a t o f w h i c h e ve ry ,

p a rt m u st b e p e r fe c t ly c ov e r e d wi t h i t B e t t e r u se a .

C a r so n s sy r i n g e a n d sa t u ra t e t h e m e a t
’
.

S AL T I N G .

M e a t p r e se rve d wi t h C a r son s sa l t i n g m a c h i n e wil l k e e p in ’

ro or t io n t o t h e st r e n g t h o f t h e b r i n e wi t h w h i c h i t i s
p p
imp r e g n a t e d I f i t b e r e q u ire d t o k e e p fo r a m on t h u se t h e
.
,

r e c i p e m a r k e d N o 1 i f fo r t w o m on t h s N o 2 ; if b e y on d
.
, .

t h a t t im e N o 3 ,
M e a t p i c k l e d wi t h N o 1 wil l p r e se rve t h e
. . .

c h a r a c t e r o f fr e s h m e a t a n d N o 2 c o r n e d m e a t ; so t h a t b y
, .

t h i s i n st r u m e n t a n d p ro c e ss p e r so n s o n a voy a g e m a y h a v e
r ovi s io n s n e a rly fr e s h fo r a g ood l e n g t h o f t i m e a s b y
p ,

forc i n g a li t t l e s a l t a n d w a t e r (fo r e x a m p l e ) t o t h e b o n e
- -
,

i u l a r l y w h e n t h e r e i s a j oi n t a n d a r ou n d t h e o ’

p a r t c p pe s e ye ,

i n a l e g o f m u t t o n t h e o t h e r p a r t s will r e m a i n sw e e t wi t h o u t
,

s a l t fo r m a n y w e e k s if h u n g i n a n a i r y p l a c e .

T o m a ki n g P i c k le or B rin e .

No . 1 .
—T k om m o n sa l t 5 p ou n d s m ol a sse s ! p o u n d
a e of c , ,

w a t e r 1 g a llo n M i x t o g e t h e r a n d a llow i t t o st a n d q u i e t
.
,

fo r h a l f a n h o u r (o r lo n g e r ) ; t h e n p o u r o r st r a i n o ff t h e
c l e a r li q u id t a k i n g c a r e t h a t n o p a r t i c l e o f sal t o r ot h e r
,

s u b st a n c e p a ss i n t o t h e m a c h i n e T h i s i s v e ry i m p ort a n t .
,

a s s u c h p a r t i c l e s m a y st o p t h e h ol e i n t h e n i pp l e ; b u t s h o u ld

a p a r t i c l e O f sa l t o r fat g e t i n t o i t i f t h e n i p p l e b e p l a c e d i n ,

h o t w a t e r t h e sa l t w ill b e di ssolv e d a n d t h e fa t c a n b e ,

b low n o u t .

No 2 . T a k e o f c o m m o n sa l t 6 p o u n d s sa l t p e t re
.
-
p o u n d , ,

m ol a sse s o u n d w a t e r 1 g a llo n D i ssolv e a s a b ov e

p ,
. .
3 26 RE M I N I S C E N CE S OF I N DI A

u p th e r u m p F i x i t t o t h e sp i t b y sk e we r s a n d c ove r i t
. ,

wi t h p a p e r w h e n n e a rl y do n e u n p a p e r frot h a n d g ive i t a , , ,

n i c e b row n F owl s a n d a ll g a m e b ird s m a y b e s t u ffe d wi t h -

.

a fa r c e a n d l a rd e d o r t h e b odi e s fi ll e d wi t h a r a g o u t o f
,

m u sh room s or oy st e r s se r ve d wi t h b r e a d e gg o r a n y o t h e r
, , ,

sa u c e A l a r g e fowl will t a k e fro m a h a l f t o t h r e e q u a r t e r s

.
-

o f a n h o u r ro a st i n g .

B U T T E RE D E GG S .

B eat an d w e lve e gg s p u t a p i e c e o f b u t t e r
st r a in te n or t
i n t o a sa u c e p a n a n d k e e p t u rn i n g i t o n e w a y t ill m e l t e d
,
.

P u t i n t h e b e a t e n e gg s a n d st ir t h e m r o u n d wi t h a s ilve r
,

sp oo n u n t il t h e y b e c o m e q u i t e t h i c k S e r v e t h e m o n a di sh .

wi t h b u t t e r e d t oa st T h e y m a y b e e a t e n wi t h fi sh fowl o r
.
, ,

sa u s a g e s .

C O U N T R Y CAP T AI N .

C u t a sm a ll o r l a r g e fowl o r a n y o t h e r b ird fi t for t h e ,

t a b l e i n p i e c e s ; s h re d a n o n io n sm a ll a n d fr y i t b row n i n
, ,

b u t t e r S p ri n k l e t h e fowl wi t h fi n e sa l t a n d c u rry p owd e r

.
-
,

a n d fr
y i t b r ow n ; t h e n p u t i t i n t o a st e wp a n wi t h a p i n t
o f so u p S t e w i t S lowly dow n t o a h a l f a n d se rv e i t wi t h
.
,

ri c e .

P ART R I D G E S AN D F R AN C O L I NS .

B ot h b l a c k a n d g ra y a r e b e st b oil e d ; t h e form e r a r e i n
se a so n from O c t o b e r u n t i l M a y t h e l a t t e r fro m S e p t e m b e r ,

t o F e b r u a ry C l e a n t h e b i r d s a n d t r u ss t h e m a s c h i c k e n
. .

H a ve r e a dy a l a r g e ve s se l o f b oili n g w a t e r i n t o w h i c h p l a c e ,

t h e b ird s k e e p i n g t h e w a t e r a t a b oil
, t h e y will b e do n e i n
t e n o r t we lve m i n u t e s T h e y a r e a l so ve ry g ood st e w e d wi t h
.

so m e b u t t e r a n d a sm a ll q u a n t i t P la c e t he m in
y o f wa t e r .

a s t e w a n o r c o n j u r e r ove r a b ri s k fi r e loo k t o t h e m o c c a
p
s i o n a ll
y a n d c o n st a n t ly t u r n t o p re ve n t t h e m b e i n g b u r n t i n
, ,

t h e b o t t o m o f t h e p a n a n d a s soo n a s t h e g ra vy b e g i n s t o
,

ooz e from t h e b irds a n d m ixe s wi t h t h e b u t t e r t h e y a r e do n e ,

e n o u gh S e rv e wi t h b r e a d sa u c e
.
Q u a il sn i p e ro c k o r .
, ,

g r e e n p i g e o n m a y b e dre sse d i n t h e sa m e m a n n e r o n ly
, ,

t h e t w o l a t t e r s h o u ld fi rst b e s k i n n e d a n d dr e sse d in vin e

l e a ve s .
 RE CI P E S 3 7 2

A L U XU RI O U S Q U AI L PI E .

T a k e t we lve q u a il
i c e ly p l u c k t h e m a n d 2 p ou n d s o f st e a k
, n , .

P u t a sp oo n fu l o f p at e d e foi e g r a s i n sid e e a c h b ird a n d wr a p ,

i t i n a sli c e o f t h in b a c on Ad d a sm a l l t i n o f t r u ffl e s h a lf
.
,

a b o t t l e o f b l a c k W or c e st e r s h ir e m u s h roo m s s i x h a rd b oi l e d ,
-

e g g s e a c h c u t in h a l f so m e W or c e st e r s h ir e sa u c e (L e a a n d
, ,

P e r r in s) ; fi ll in wi t h ri c h st o c k Cov e r wi t h g ood cr u st
’
.
,

a n d b a k e s lowly .

To D RE S S Q U AI L S .

Plu c k dr a w y o u r q u a i l ; c u t a p i e c e o f l e mo n o r li m e
an d
t h e s i z e o f a dic e a n d c ov e r wi t h a sp rin k li n g o f c a y e n n e ,

t h e n wr a p t h e di c e in a v e ry t h in sli c e o f b a c on H a ve .

b oili n g wa t e r h a n dy ; t a k e i t Off t h e fi r e drop t h e q u a il s in t o ,

t h e w a t e r l e a v e t h e m t h e r e t h r e e m in u t e s ; t h e n t a k e t h e m
,

ou t , i n se rt in e a c h t h e l e m on wra p p e d in b a c o n ; fr y t h e m
ni c e ly in b r e a d c ru m b s a n d se rve o n h ot b u t t e re d t o a s t
, .

P AR T R I DG E PI E .

F o u r y o u n g p a r t rid g e s , 1 p o u nd r u m p st e a k , h a l f a doz e n
oyst e r s , a t i n o f W orc e st e rs h ire b l a c k m u sh room s, a c up of

st oc k , p ro p e r se a s o n i n g ; c ove r wi t h g ood c r u st an d b a ke .

S AL AD S AU CE

T a k e t h e y ol k s re s h e g g s b oil e d h a rd m a sh in a
of t wo f ,

l a t e wi t h a s ilve r for k t h e n a d d a sa l t sp oo n fu l o f s a l t and

p , ,

t w o sp oo n fu l s o f m u st a r d ; r u b t h e w h ol e we l l t o g e t h e r ;
a dd b y d e g r e e s t h r e e s oon fu l s o f sw e e t o i l o r fr e s h c r e a m
p ,

t h e n t w o o f g ood vi n e g a r st irri n g i t w e ll t h e w h ol e t im e,

u n t il q u i t e smoo t h ; a s m a ll s p oo n fu l o f a n c h ovy s a u c e i s

som e t im e s a dd e d b u t i s n o im p rove m e n t i f t h e s a l a d i s t o
,

b e e a t e n wi t h c old m e a t s t h o u gh i t m a y b e wi t h fi sh , ,

p ra w n s o r lo b st e r s
, .

S AL M I T E TC OF G AM E ,
ME A ,
.

T a k e a p o u n d o f a n y u n d e r ro a st e d m e a t h a r e t u r k e y -
, , ,

g a m e goo se o r d u c k a n d c u t i t u p i n t o c o n ve n i e n t p i e c e s ;
, , ,

p u t t h e m i n t o a s a u c e p a n ; b r u i se t h e l ive r s a n d s h o u l d i t ,
3 28 RE M I N I SCE NCE S OF I N DI A
be i p e or wood c oc k b r u i se t h e t ra il ; s q u e e z e ove r t h e m
sn ,

t h e j u i ce o f t w o l e mo n s a n d t h e r a sp e d z e st o f o n e o r t w o
b i t t e r ora n g e s ; se a so n wi t h sa l t a n d t h e fi n e st sp i c e s i n
p owd e r c a ye n n e
, a n d m u st a r d p r e p a r e d wi t h
,
fl a vou re d
vi n e g a r a n d a li t t l e w h i t e wi n e o r c l a re t ; p u t t h e sa u c e p a n ,

ove r a l a m p o r fi r e a n d st ir i t c o n st a n t l y t h a t i t m a y a l l b e
, ,

i n c or p ora t e d wi t h t h e sa u c e I t m u st n o t b oil a n d s h o u ld .
,

i t a t t e m p t i t a st r e a m o f fi n e o i l m u st b e p ou r e d ov e r t o
,

r e v e n t i t o r di m i n i s h t h e fl a m e o r k e e p i t u p a li t t l e h i gh e r
p , ,

a n d st ir i t t w o o r t h r e e t i m e s i t i s t h e n r e a dy t o b e se rv e d ,

a n d m u st b e e a t e n v e r y h o t .

To GR LL I M U S H ROOM S .

T a k e t h o se iddli n g s i z e sk i n a n d wa sh t h e m ve ry
of m ,

c le a n , if n e c e ssa r y st ra i n a n d d r y t h e m i n a c lot h ; p u t a
li t t l e b u t t e r ove r t h e i n side o f e a c h ; sp ri n k l e som e sa l t a n d
e
p pp e r a n, d g ril l o r fr
y u n t il t e n d e r M u s h room s a r e ve r y .

p l e n t i fu l a t t i m e s i n c e r t a i n se a s o n s i n I n di a in B u rm a and , ,

Assa m .

M U S H RO O M O M E LE TT E .

P re p a re an d coo k t h e m u sh room s in b u t t e r , p e pp e r ,
an d
sa lt ‘

, an d m ix i n t o a p l a i n om e l e t t e .

To DE VI L LE GS OF P O U L T RY OR G AM E .

S c or e t h e l e g s roa st e d t u r k e y g oo se o r fowl o r a n y
'

of a , ,

g a m e ; sp ri n k l e t h e m we ll wi t h c a y e n n e b l a c k p e p p e r a n d , ,

sa l t ; b r oi l t h e m w e l l a n d p ou r ove r t h e followi n g sa u c e .

T a k e t h r e e sp oo n fu l s o f g r a vy o n e o f b u t t e r r u bb e d i n a ,

li t t l e fl o u r o n e o f l e mo n j u i c e a g l a s s o f win e (p ort o r
,
-
,

w h i t e ) a sp oo n fu l o f m u st a rd som e c h illi V i n e g a r o r t w o o r
, ,

t h r e e c h o p p e d g r e e n c h illi e s a sp oo n fu l o f m u sh roo m c a t su p
,
.

W a rm u p a n d se rve i n a b o a t
, .

OME LE T T E .

B r e a k fo u r gg s i n t o a di sh wi t h a li t t l e p e p p e r o r
e ,

c h o p p e d g r e e n c h illi e s a sm a l l q u a n t i t y o f fi n e s a l t Wi t h a
, ,

t e a sp oo n fu l o f m il k o r w a t e r m e r e ly t o di ssolv e i t ; b e a t ,

t h e w h ol e we ll t o a fro t h t h e n p u t a t a b l e sp oon fu l o f
,
33 9 RE MI NI SCE N CE S OF I ND I A

in p i e c e s a n d fr y t h e m i n a fryi n g p a n ; m a k e a syru p
,
-
of th e
w h i t e o f t h e e g g wi t h a li t t l e s u g a r a n d lim e j u i c e
,
- .

R I CE P U D D I N G W I T H D RY
C U R RAN T S .

T a k e a s m a ll b a s i n o f b oil e d dry ri c e mix i t wi t h h a lf a ,

p o u n d o f c u r r a n t s t w o t a b l e sp oo n fu l s o f su g a r o n e o f b u t t e r
, , ,

a n d a b e a t e n e gg ; b oil i t i n a fl o u r e d c lo t h o r m o u ld fo r

n e a r ly a n h o u r .

B O I L E D R I CE P U D D I N G .

W a sh a n d p i c k 4 o u n c e s O f r i c e ve r y C l e a n S o a k i t in .

w a t e r h a l f a n h ou r t h e n t i e i t u p i n a c lot h wi t h 8 ou n c e s
, ,

o f p i c k e d c u r r a n t s o r r a i s i n s ; l e a v e r oo m fo r t h e r i c e t o
s we l l and
, b oil i t n e a r ly t w o h o u rs S e rve wi t h m e l t e d .

b u t t e r su g a r a n d n u t m e g
, , .

P L AN T AI N P U D D I N G .

T a ke s om e h a ve t h e m fri e d in t h e ir sk i n s ;
pla n ta in s ,
an d
w h e n don e y o u m u st p e e l a n d c u t t h e fr u i t i n s li c e s ; a dd
,

s u g a r t o t h e t a st e t h e j u i c e o f t w o o r t h r e e lim e s t h e p e e l
, ,

o f o n e c u t i n t o s m a ll t h i n p i e c e s a g l a ss o f w h i t e wi n e ha lf , ,

a t e a sp oo n fu l o f
p o u n d e d c love s wi t h a l i t t l e b u t t e r T h is , .

i s t o b e p u t i n t o a p a st e a n d b oil e d a s a n a p p l e p u ddi n g , .

C r e a m o r l e mo n a n d su g a r wi t h b u t t e r i s a g re a t i m p rove
, ,

m en t .

P L AI N P AN CAK E S .

L i gh t p l a i n p a n c a k e s a r e m a d e o f a t h i n li gh t b a t t e r o f
mil k , e gg s, a n d fl ou r , wi t h s a l t a n d su g a r ; r u b t h e fry i n g

pa n wi t h a b u t t e r e d c lo t h ; s i ft s u g a r ove r t h e m a s t h e y a r e
do u b l e d o r rol l e d a n d di s h e d ; se rve wi t h lim e s .

P I N E AP P L E FRITT E RS .

P a re ore a p i n e a p p l e c u t i n t o sli c e s a n d st e w t h e m
an d c , ,

wi t h a li t t l e wa t e r s u g a r a n d l e mon p e e l W h e n soft a dd
, ,
-
. ,

a li t t l e w h i t e wi n e a n d t h e j u i c e o f h a l f a li m e wi t h a b i t o f ,

b u t t e r W h e n c old m a k e a b a t t e r wi t h t h re e sp oo n fu l s o f
.
,

fi n e fl o u r t w o sp oo n fu l s o f c r e a m a g l a ss o f wi n e so m e
, , ,

su g a r a n d fo u r e gg s
,
B e a t i t a ll t o g e t h e r ve ry w e ll ; p u t
.

fi r st b u t t e r o r p u re gh e e i n a fryi n g p a n t h row t h e fru i t i n t o -

,
 RE CI PE S 33 1

the b a t t e r t a k e i t o u t i n sp oonfu l s a n d fr y t h e m o n e b y o n e
, ,

t o a ni c e li gh t b rown ; p u t t h e m o n a s i e v e b e fo r e t h e fi r e t o
d r y a n d se rve wi t h p l e n t y o f p o u n d e d su g a r ov e r t h e m o n
, , ,

a wh it e n a p k i n .

M AN G O F O O L .

Ad d c il k a n d su g a r t o t h e p ul p o f g r e e n b oi l e d
old m
m a n go e s i n su c h q u a n t i t y a s t h e m a k e r c h oose s ; t h e m i l k
m u st b e a dd e d b y a l i t t l e a t a t im e st irri n g i t w e l l wi t h t h e ,
-

m a n g oe s ot h e rwi se t h e fool will n o t b e smoot h

, .

V E M AN G O E S
To P RE S E R .

T a k e a n y q u a n t i t y o f t h e fi n e st u n ri p e m a n g o e s p e e l a n d , ,

divide t h e m in h a l f st o n e s a n d a l l r e m ovi n g t h e se e d s ; t h e n
, ,

we i gh t h e m a n g o e s ; t o e a c h p ou n d a llow a p i n t o f w a t e r
a n d a p o u n d a n d a q u a rt e r o f su g a r c a n dy ; p u t t h e w h ol e -

i n t o a st e wp a n a n d b oi l g e n t ly r e movi n g a l l t h e S c u m a s i t
, ,

ri se s W h e n t h e m a n goe s a p p e a r c l e a r a n d su ffi c i e n t ly don e
.
,

r e move fro m t h e fi r e a n d l e t i t st a n d u n t il c old ; t h e n p u t

,

i n t o b ot t l e s o r j a rs for u se or k e e p i n g .

M AN G O E LLY
J .

Pe e l an d y q
cu u t
a n t i t
any o f u n ri p e m a n g o e s fr e e from

s t o n e ; p u t t h e s li c e s i n t o a p r e s e r vi n g p a n wi t h a su ffi c i e n t -
,

q u a n t i t y o f w a t e r t o c ove r t h e m a n d b oil g e n t ly t il l q u i t e,

so ft ; st r a i n t h e c o n t e n t s t h ro u gh a j e lly b a g o r c lo t h To -
.

eac h
p i n t o f j u i c e a d d a p o u n d a n d a h a l f o f g ood su g a r ,

p o u nd e d a n d w h e n i t i s di ssolv e d p u t i t i n t o a p r e se rvi n g
, ,

p a n se t i t o n t h e fi r e a n d b oil g e n t ly st irri n g a n d s k immi n g

, , ,

i t t h e w h ol e t im e t ill n o mor e s c u m r i se s a n d i t i s c l e a r a n d
fi n e ; p o u r i n t o p o t s w h il e w a rm a n d w h e n c old c ove r i t ,

down c lo se .

M I L K P U N CH .

Put th e i ds o f t h irt y lim e s p a re d fi n e i n a b ot t l e o f

r n , ,

ru m l e t i t st a n d t we n t y fo u r h o u r s t h e n t a k e t h re e b o t t l e s
-

o f wa t e r o n e b o t t l e o f lim e j u i c e o d o f owd e re d
, 4 p u n s -
p ,

su g a r t w o n u t m e g s g r a t e d
, a n d s i x b ot t l e s o f r u m
,
a rr a c k , ,

o r b r a n dy ; m i x a ll t o g e t h e r ; a d d 2 q u a r t s o f m il k b oili n g

h ot l e t i t st a n d t w o h o u rs t h e n st ra in i t t h ro u gh a fl a n n e l
bag .
 RE M I NI SCE NCE S OF I NDI A
C U R RY FISH .

T h e n a t ive w a y i s t o c u t 2 p o u n d s o f fi sh i n t o slic e s d i p ,

i t i n a li t t l e o il a n d r u b i t wi t h p o u n d e d r a w g r a i n ; l e t i t
,

re m a in a s h or t t im e a n d w a s h i t o ff ;
, t h e n p a r t i a lly fr y
i t i n gh e e wi t h a su ffi c i e n c y o f sa l t e i gh t o r t e n d r i e d
, ,

c h ili e s a n d a p i n c h o f fe n u g r e e k se e d a n d n a l a z e e r a ; t h e n
,

m i x a fe w dri e d p o u n d e d c h ili e s so m e t u r m e ri c ro a st e d , ,

c ori a n d e r se e d fe n u g r e e k
-
, a n d na la z e e ra
,
wi t h som e sl i c e d ,

o n io n s a n d a c love o f g a rli c p ou n d e d ; c ove r t h i s we l l o e r v

t h e fi sh and
, p l a c e i t a g a i n i n t o t h e gh e e wi t h t h e fr i e d
c h ili e s a ddi n g s u ffi c i e n t w a t e r t o d r e ss i t
, An a c idi t y m a y .

b e g ive n wi t h t a m a ri n d j u i c e g r e e n m a n g o e s V i n e g a r o r
-
, , ,

l e m o n ve g e t a b l e s m a y b e a dde d i n t h e sa m e w a y a s dire c t e d
fo r v e g e t a b l e c u r r i e s p u t t i n g i n a l a y e r o f v e g e t a b l e s a n d
, ,

t h e n a l a y e r o f fi s h s h a k i n g t h e sa u c e p a n t o p r e v e n t t h e
,

fi sh fro m b r e a k i n g a n d b u r n i n g T h e v e g e t a b l e s u su a ll y
.

a dd e d t o t h e fi sh c u r r i e s a r e c a u li fl ow e r fe nn e l mo t h e r ,
-
,

moori n g a p od s a n d l e a ve s .

F OW L C U R R Y .

T a ke an d cu t th e f j oi n t s a n d a d d t o i t som e sli c e d
owl by ,

g r e e n g i n g e r b l a c k p e pp e r sa l t a n d c ori a nde r s e e d a l l
, , ,
-
,

g r ou n d w e ll ; h a sh t h e n a bool c h u n n a l i a n d b oil i t i n a ,

li t t l e w a t e r t ill i t b e c om e s t e n d e r a n d p u t i t t o t h e fowl ; ,

st r a i n t h e g r a vy i n t o a sa u c e p a n a n d m i x t h e c u r ry st u ff w e ll
,

wi t h i t ; g ive a ba g h m t o i t in gh e e wi t h c love s P u t t h e
'
.

fow l i n t o a st e wp a n wi t h som e gh e e a n d fr y i t ; t h e n p o u r ,

t h e g r a vy ov e r i t ; l e t i t s i m m e r for a s h o r t t im e a n d se r v e ,

it u p . T h e ri gh t p ro p ort io n s o f c u r r y i n g r e di e n t s a r e a s
follows
G he e lb .

N a b ool c h u n n a l i 5 lb
9 .

O n io n s 1; lb 7 .

Co r i a n de r se e d - I t ol a h .

S a lt 2 t ol a h s .

C i n n a mo n 2 m a sh a s .

C love s 2 m a sh a s .

C a r d a mom s 2 m a sh a s .

B l a c k p e pp e r 1 m a sh a .

G re e n g i n g e r 1 t ol a h .
 3 34 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I
'

N DI A
of m u st a r d t w o so ft b oil e d e gg s sa l t a n d c a ye n n e t o t a st e
,
-
, ,

a n d s e rv e ve r y h o t T h e q u a n t i t i e s m a y b e v a r i e d a ccordi n g
.

t o t h e a m o u n t o f fi sh u se d .

C H U P AT I E S

Ar e m a de b y m ixi n g fl o u r a n d wa t e r t o g e t h e r wi th a li t t l e
s a l t i n t o a p a st e o r do u gh k n e a di n g i t w e ll so m e t im e s gh e e
,

i s a dd e d T h e y m a y a l so b e m a d e wi t h m il k i n st e a d o f
.

wa t e r T h e y a r e fl a t t e n e d i n t o t h i n c a k e s wi t h t h e h a n d
. ,

s m e a r e d wi t h a sm a l l q u a n t i t y o f gh e e a n d b a k e d o n a n iron ,

a n ov e r t h e fi r e
p .

B RE AK F AS T D I S H E S .

Ric e , if
p p o e rl y b oil
r e d a n d dr a i n e d wil l k e e p g ood fo r a ,

fe w d a ys W h e n r e q u ire d for u se a l l t h a t i s n e c e ssa ry i s t o

.
,

o u r b oili n g w a t e r ov e r i t a n d t o a g a i n dr a i n i t A few
p
.
,

s li c e s o f fr i e d b a c o n c u t u p fi n e a c o u p l e o f e gg s b oi l e d o n l y
,

t h re e m i n u t e s p e pp e r a n d s a l t m ixe d wi t h t h e ri c e will
, ,

rovid e a p a l a t a b l e di s h q u i c k ly p r e p a r e d
p
I n t r a v e lli n g w h e n h u rri e d a m e a l c a n b e q u i c k ly p re p a r e d
, ,

b y c a rry i n g wi t h o n e c oo k e d m e a t s b u t t h e y a r e a p t t o g o ,

b a d u n l e ss c u r r i e d N a t iv e s o f I n di a b y c u t t i n g m e a t in t o
.
,

s q u a r e s a n d s a t u r a t i n g t h e m wi t h c o n dim e n t s c a n p re se rve ,

t h e m e v e n fo r a y e a r .

G e t som e g ood m u t t o n o r v e a l fre e o f b o n e a n d g ri st l e ,

c u t i n t o c u b e s o f a b o u t fi i n c h e a c h fa c e ; g e t som e g ood
f

b u t t e r or gh e e m e l t i t ; a d d som e good st oc k W h e n i t
,
.

h a s s im m e r e d fo r som e t im e a d d li b e r a ll y a q u a n t i t y o f ,

B a rry s M a dr a s c u r r y p a st e a b o u t t w o a n d a h a lf t a b l e sp oo n
’
-
,

f l s o f t h e c o n di m e n t t o e ve r y p i n t o f g r a vy u se d
u Cove r t h e .

i n g re di e n t s u p a n d t h e n l e t t h e m s i m m e r slowly for a t l e a st
,

t w o h o u r s st irri n g g e n t ly
,
W h e n t h e m e a t i s t h oro u gh ly
.

sa t u r a t e d p o u r i t i n t o a j a r wi t h a n a i r t i gh t sc r e w t o p a n d
-
, ,

p ut i t b y W h.en r e q u ire d fo r u se t a ke a s mu c h a s i s ,

r e q u i r e d p u t i t i n t o a fryi n g p a n a n d p l a c e ov e r a c h a rc o a l
-
, ,

fi r e i f p o ss i b l e u n t i l i t i s t h oro u gh ly h e a t e d a n d t h e n se rv e
, , ,

wi t h r i c e e i t h e r fr e sh ly b oil e d o r wa r m e d u p a n d y o u wil l
, ,

h a ve a g ood m e a l r e a dy i n a q u a r t e r o f a n h o u r .
 RE CI P E S 335

TO VE F I S H
P RE S E R .

I n h o t c li m a t e s a l l fi sh sh o u l d b e s p li t down t h e b a c k a n d
t h e n l a id o p e n ; t h e y s h o u ld t h e n b e sa l t e d a n d sh o u ld l i e ,

fo r a fe w h o u r s t o dr a i n a ft e r w h i c h t h e y s h o u ld b e h u n g
,

ove r t h e smo k e o f a dry wood fi r e T h i s t r e a t m e n t re n d e r s

.

t h e m d e li c io u s fo r im m e di a t e u se b u t i f r e q u ir e d t o k e e p
,

t h e y m u st b e s mo k e d fo r a c o u p l e o f d a y s a n d t h e n b e ,

h i gh ly dri e d in t h e su n I f y ou h a ve a b ot t l e o f p y ro
.

li g n e o u s a c id g ive t h e fi sh a c o u p l e o f c o a t i n g s wi t h a so ft
,

b r u sh N o fl i e s will t h e n se t t l e u p o n t h e fl e s h a n d t h e
.
,

fl a vo u r wil l b e i m p rove d .

To P RE S E R V E S K I N S W I T H T H E H AI R O N .

S o a k t h e s k in in w a t e r fo r o n e d a y ; c l e a n i t w e ll o f fa t
t a k e a l u m 3 p o u nd s ro c k sa l t 4 o u n c e s a n d di ssolv e i n a s
, ,

m u c h w a t e r a s will c ove r t h e S k i n i n a t u b o r ve s se l t h e n b oil

t h e sol u t ion a n d w h e n l u k e w a r m p u t in t h e s k i n a n d so a k i t
,

for fo u r d a y s wor k i n g i t w e ll wi t h t h e fe e t or h a n d s se v e r a l
,

t im e s t a k e i t o u t a n d d r y i t in a w a rm p l a c e b u t n o t i n t h e ,

su n . B oi l u p t h e w a t e r a g a i n re p e a t i n g t h e sa m e p ro c e s s
,

wi t h t h e sk i n w a sh i t we ll a n d b e a t i t wi t h a woode n
,

m a ll e t t ill q u i t e so ft a ft e r w h i c h d r y i t i n t h e sh a d e r u bb i n g
, ,

i t b e t we e n t h e h a nd s a t i n t e rv a l s B y t h i s m e a n s i t will b e
.

a s so ft a n d p li a b l e a s do e s k i n .

TAK E R U S T O U T O F S T E E L
To .

C ov e r t h e st e e l w e ll wi t h swe e t o i l a n d l e t i t r e m a i n fo r a
co u p l e o f d a y s ; t h e n u se u n sl a c k e d li m e fi n e ly p owd e r e d ,

a n d r u b wi t h i t u n t il a ll t h e d u st di sa p p e a rs .

To T R O Y AN T S R E D AN D B L AC K
DE S , .

Aft e r h a vi n g di sc ov e r e d t h e a p e r t u r e o f t h e ir n e st s su rro u n d ,

i t wi t h so ft Cl a y form e d i n t o t h e sh a p e o f a fu n n e l a n d p o u r ,

i n b oili n g w a t e r W h e re t h e y a r e i n t h e h a b i t o f i n fe st i n g a
.

fl oor o r room l a y down t h i n sli c e s o f r a w m e a t o r live r u p o n

, ,

w h ic h t h e a n ts will soon c o n g re g a t e L e t a p e rso n g o a b o u t .

wi t h h o t wa t e r in a b a si n a n d t h row i n t h e m e a t a s i t i s
,

c ov e r e d ; t h e n s h a k e i t dry a n d p u t i t down t o c oll e c t m o r e .

336 RE M I N I SC E N CE S OF I NDI A
T o p r e ve n t a n t s g e t t i n g o n a t a b l e b e d e t c t i e ro u n d
, , .
,

t h e low e r e n d o f e a c h l e g o r p o st a t h i n s li p o f fl a n n e l

di pp e d i n c a st or o il —
-
t h e y will n o t p a ss ov e r t h i s o r p l a c e
t h e le gs i n p a n s o f wa t e r .

W H I T E AN T S .

To b ox e s fro m t h e ir d e p re d a t ion s t h e b e st p l a n i s
se c u r e ,

t o p l a c e t h e m o n g l a ss b o t t l e s l a id l e n g t h w a y s a n d i f k e p t ,

fr e e fr o m d u st t h e y c a n n o t a sc e n d T h e y h a ve a g re a t d i s
.

li k e t o i n di g o a n d will s e ldom t o u c h c lo t h dye d i n i t o r

,

s a t u r a t e d i n a sol u t io n o f c o r r o s ive su b li m a t e T h e p r op or .

t io n o f 1 p o u n d t o 4 g a llo n s o f w a t e r i s s u ffi c i e n t T h e y a l so .

di sli k e s a l t w h i c h m a y b e m ix e d u p wi t h t h e m u d o r go b e r
,

t h a t i s so m e t i m e s s p r e a d ov e r t h e fl oor o r w a ll T h o u gh .

t h i s i s n o t a n e ffe c t u a l r e m e dy i t i s a s w e ll o c c a s ion a lly t o

,

a do p t i t .

To D E S T ROY B UGS .

W a sh ve ry p a rt c re vi c e o r c or n e r w h e r e t h e y c a n b e
e ,

s e c r e t e d wi t h a st ro n g sol u t io n o f a l u m w a t e r b oili n g h o t -
,

o f t h e st r e n g t h o f a s m u c h p o u n d e d a l u m a s t h e w a t e r wil l

di s solve ; t h i s i s a n e ffe c t u a l r e m e dy O r wa sh e ve r y p a r t
.

o f t h e b e d s t e a d o r fu r n i t u r e wi t h a s t r o n g s ol t io n o f c orr o s ive
u

s u b li m a t e o r di ssolve t h e s u b li m a t e i n S p iri t s o f t u rp e n t i n e ,

wi t h t h e a ddi t io n o f w a t e r I t i s a l m ost i m p oss i b l e t o p r e ve n t

.

t h e s e i n se c t s from g e t t i n g i n t o y o u r b e d s a n d fu r n i t u r e w h e r e
t h e r e a r e n a t ive s e rva n t s i n a t t e n d a n c e ; t h e u t mo st c l e a n l i
n e ss i s r e q u i s i t e b y c o n t i n u a lly t a k i n g down t h e c u r t a i n s
, ,

r e m ovi n g t h e b e d st e a d s o u t i n t h e s u n and
p o u r i n g b oili n g
,

wa t e r a l l ove r su c h p a rt s a s t h e i n se c t s c a n h a r b o u r in I f .

t h e b u g s a r e i n t h e w a ll s o f t h e h o u se o r a n yw h e r e e l se
a bou t , y o u m a y p r e ve n t t h e m g e tt in g u p t h e
p o st s o f t h e

b e d st e a ds b y p l a c i n g e a c h l e g i n a ve sse l o r t i n s a u c e r fi ll e d
w i t h wood a s h e s fro m t h e k i t c h e n ; t h e y will n o t p a ss ov e r
t h i s a n d fo r c h ildr e n s c o t s n o t h i n g c a n b e b e t t e r I t is
’
.
,

r fe ra ble t o w a te r i n t o w h i c h t h e c lo t h e s from t h e b ed
p e ,

m i gh t fa ll ; b e s id e s do m e st i c a n i m a l s o ft e n l a p t h e wa t e r
, ,

a n d s e rva n t s fo r g e t t o s e e t h a t t h e p a n s a r e r e fi ll e d N e ve r .

a llow t h e dh obi e s t o l a y o u t t h e c lo t h e s o n t h e b e d whe n

3 38 RE M I N I SCE N CE S OF I .
N DI A
of wa t e r o r c a m p h o r a n d a m m on i a wi t h c a ye n n e p e p p e r
, .

I f li q u or a r se n i c a li s i s p ro c u r a b l e o r a t h a nd g ive 1 dr a c h m ,

wi t h t e n drop s o f t i n c t u r e o f op i u m a t a b l e sp oon fu l o f l e mo n ,

j u ic e i n su ffi c i e n t p e p p e r mi n t o r st ro n g b r a n dy a n d wa t e r t o
,
- -

fi ll a wi n e g l a ss a n d r e p e a t t h i s e ve ry h a lf h o u r u n t il im p rov e
,
-

m e n t t a k e s p l a c e w h e n a p u r g a t ive sh o u ld b e a d m i n i st e re d
, ,

t h e wo u nd w e ll fom e n t e d wi t h w a rm w a t e r a n d a p o u l t i c e ,

o f m a s h e d b oil e d c a r r o t s a n d o n io n s a p p li e d t o t h e r A
p t
a .

b ot t l e o f m a de ir a m a y b e t a k e n in dra u gh t s a t a fe w min u t e s ’

i n t e rva l o r a n y e q u a ll y l a r g e do se o f sp i r i t u o u s a n d fe rm e n t e d
,

li q u or K e e p t h e p a t i e n t wa l k i n g a b o u t a n d d o n ot a llow
.
,

h im t o l i e dow n t o sl e e p S h ou ld t h e wou n d e x h i b i t n u m e rou s

.

p u n c t u r e s i n t w o p a r a ll e l li n e s i t m a
y b e co n s id e r e,
d t h a t t h e

s n a k e w a s h a r ml e ss ; b u t w h e n t h e r e a r e o n l t w o s m a ll
p n uc
y
t u r e s t h e y h a ve b e e n i n fl i c t e d mo st p ro b a b ly b y a p oi sono u s
,

on e .

N OT E —P oi so n ou s sn a k e s h a ve c o n i c a l t u b u l a r fa n g s b u t , ,

o n l y o n e r o w o f t e e t h o n e a c h s ide o f t h e u pp e r j a w w h il st ,

t h e h a r m l e ss t r i b e h a v e t w o Al so i n t h e for m e r t h e sc a l e s
.
, ,

d e c r e a se in s i z e a s t h e y a pp r oa c h t h e h e a d w h il e t h e re ve r se ,

i s t h e c a se i n t h e l a t t e r .

C U RE FOR T HE S T I NG OF A S CO R P I O N O R T HE B I TE
C E NT I P E DEOF A .

App ly a li g a t u r e a b ove t h e p a r t if p o ss i b l e m a k i n g a , ,

st ro n g p r e ss u r e ov e r i t wi t h a w a t c h k e y o r c u t down o n t h e ,

sp o t a n d a l
pp y lim e j u i c e a n d sa l t-
o r a wa rm p o u l t ic e o f ,

i p e c a c u a n h a p owd e r o r t h e r oot o f a t h i st l e g ro u n d a n d
-
,

r u bb e d i n t o a p a st e a n d sm e a r e d ove r t h e wo u n d o r li n t ,

di p p e d i n h a r t sh orn o r e a u d e l u c e I f t h e p a in co n t in u e s
- -
.
,

a g l a ss o f b r a n dy t a k e n oc c a s io n a l ly will r e li e v e i t A r e m e dy .

l a t e l y r e c o m m e n d e d i s t o drop a li t t l e p o u n d e d b u r n t a l u m
i n to th e eye .

M O S Q U I T O B I TE S -
.

T o a ll a y t h e i t c h i n g i n t h e fi r st i n st a n c e w e t t h e p a r t ,

e i t h e r wi t h e a u d e Colo g n e -
s a l vol a t i l e
-
li m e j u i c e sa l t a n d
, ,
-
,

w a t e r o r a sol u t io n o f op i u m a n d wa t e r ; b u t if u l c e r a t io n
,

h a s t a k e n p l a c e a p o u l t i c e m a y b e n e c e ssa ry o r k e e p t h e
, ,
 RE M E DI E S 3 39

s or e b a t h e d wi t h G o u l a r d s E xt ra c t su ffi c i e n t ly dil u t e d in
’

, ,

t h e p rop o r t ion o f a t e a sp oo n fu l t o a p i n t o f w a t e r O liv e o il .

-

i s a l so a u se fu l e xt e r n a l a pp li c a t io n .

B U RN S AN D S CAL D S .

B l a dd e r s a ri si n g from b u r n s a n d sc a ld s m u st n e ve r b e c u t
o r op e n e d I n a l l a c c id e n t s o f t h i s n a t u r e i t i s n e c e ssa ry t o
.

e m p loy a n im m e di a t e r e m e dy su c h a s imm e r s i n g in c old

,

wa t e r or su rrou nd t h e p a rt s wi t h fi n e c ot t o n a n d a p p l y a
, ,

b a nda g e ove r t h e w h ol e S p iri t s o f t u rp e n t in e i s a l so a

.

u se fu l r e m e dy t h e so r e t o b e k e t c o n s t a n t l w e t b y so a k
, p y
i n g li n t o r r a g in i t a n d a p p l y i n g t o t h e p a r t ; t h i s i s a n
e ffe c t u a l r e m e dy O r t a k e e q u a l p a rt s o f li m e w a t e r li n se e d
.
-
, ,

olive o r c a st or o i l a n d mix t o g e t h e r ; sm e a r t h i s ove r t h e

, ,

b u rn or sc a ld a p p lyin g t h e sa m e fr e q u e n t ly
, .

G U I N E A-W O R M .

W h il e mou r i s in a h a rd st a t e a p p ly a wa rm p ou l t i c e
th e tu ,

t wi c e a d a y m a d e o f t h e p o u n d e d l e a ve s o f t h e p ri c k ly p e a r
, ,

u n t i l i t b r e a k s a n d t h e h e a d o f t h e worm p ro t r u d e s so fa r a s
,

t o b e l a id h old o f wi t h e a se e it he r b
y a p i e c e o f cot t on
,

roll e d u p li k e a q u ill o r b y a t h i n b i t o f b a m b oo wi t h a sli t

,

in i t so a s t o h old t h e e n d fa st t h i s a s i t a dva n c e s i s t o b e
, , ,

d a ily t wi st e d g e n t ly rou n d u n t il t h e w h ol e i s e xt ra c t e d ,

w h i c h wil l b e g re a t ly fa c ili t a t e d b y p o u ri n g c old wa t e r a b ove

t h e p a r t w h il st t h e wo r m i s b e i n g t wi st e d
,
N o fo r c e i s t o .

b e u se d w h e n t h e wor m c a n b e dr a w n ; d o n o t a p p l y t h e
p o u l t i c e a g a in u n t il t h e n e xt a t t e m p t a t r e mov a l i s m a d e .

CHO L E RA M I xT U R E W I TH O P I U M .

S ol u t io n on i a
of a mm dra c h m s
E s se n c e o f p e p p e rmi n t 5
M i xe d
T i n c t u re o f o p i u m
.
19

B r a n dy 1 9 o u n c e s a n d ,
16 5
N B . .
—O f t h i mixt r s u e, 1 o u n c e co n t a i n s 2 0 m inim s o f t h e
s ol u t io n o f a m m oni a , an d 2 5 m i n i m s co n t a in ; m i n im s o f
13

t h e sol u t io n .
3 49 RE M I N I SC E N CE S OF I N DI A
W he n y ou can , eat t h e fr u t t i ha t is in se a s on . M a n goe s
a re o n ly p roc u r a b l e in I n di a i n M a y a n d J u n e b u t a l l t h e ,

y e a r ro u n d o n t h e e a st co a st o f Afri c a a n d a t L a k oj a o n t h e ,

N i ge r . C u st a rd a p p l e s a r e ri p e i n S e p t e m b e r a n d O c t ob e r ,

a n d a r e d e li c io u s S om e p e o p l e sw e a r b y t h e a l l i g a t or p e a r
.

(L em m as P e i se a ) b u t I c a n t sa y t h a t I li k e i t Ap r i c ot s
’
/ .
,

a r e g r a n d i n s om e p a r t s o f I n di a b u t t h e b e st c om e from ,

C a u b u l S om e o f t h e fi n e st p e a c h e s I e ve r sa w w e r e
.

g rown in Assa m T h e bk ee e or b e a r fr u i t g rows wild ;

.
, ,

w h e n r i p e i t i s n o t u n p l e a sa n t T h e bi l i m bi i s a n a n g l e d .

fr u i t o f w h i c h t h e re a r e t w o k i n d s s we e t a n d a cid
, Th e , .

b l a c kb e rry i s fou n d i n M ysore T h e b re a dfr u i t g rows t o a .

l a r g e S i z e i n B o m b a y a n d i s o c c a sio n a lly fo u nd i n t h e
,

De c c a n B u llo c k s h e a r t a sp e c i e s o f c u st a rd a p p l e b u t
’
-
.
, ,

ve ry i n fe r ior t o t h a t fr u i t g r ows e ve ry w h e r e i n I n di a , .

T h e C a p e g oo se b e rr y (P hy sa l zs P e m v i c ma ) b e t t e r k n own
’

a s th e t ippa r i c g row s l u xu ri a n t ly in a g ood soil

, i s se lf ,

l a n t i n g a n d s oon s p r e a d s I t h i n k i t i s t h e mo st d e li c io u s
p , .

o f a ll t h e fr u i t s w h e t h e r for t h e t a b l e o r fo r p r e se rvin g
, .

V a sh e n n u t (An a c a r di m n oc c zden ml e ) g rows a lmo st i n a wi l d

'

st a t e . F i g s a l so a r e d e l i c io u s a n d p l e n t i fu l G r a p e s o n ly .

t h rive in c e rt a in lo c a li t i e s i n I n di a ; t h o s e fro m Au r u n g a b a d
e q u a l t h e b e st h o t h o u s e g r a p e s o f E u ro p e T h e re a r e t w o .

k i n d s o f g u a va r e d a n d w h i t e mor e fi t t e d fo r p r e se rve s t h a n
, ,

fo r t h e t a b l e .

T h e j a m oon i s a w il d p l u m wi t h a ro u gh a st ri n g e n t fl a vo u r , , .

T h e l e i c k ze o r i g i n a lly fr o m C h i n a g row s i n I n di a b u t do e s
’

, , ,

n o t e q u a l t h a t fro m i t s o r i g i n a l h a b i t a t L e mo n s a n d li m e s .

fl ou r i s h e ve ry w h e r e a l so swe e t li m e s L o q u a t t h rive s i n t h e
,
.

D e c c a n a n d ma n g o st e e n s h a v e b e e n i n t rod u c e d b u t I h a v e
, ,

n e v e r se e n t h e fr u i t i n p e r fe c t ion T h e dom cm g rows I n

’

B u r m a ; i t i s m u c h a pp r e c i a t e d b y t h e n a t iv e s a n d b y so m e
E u ro e a n s b u t t h e sm e ll i s mo st di sa g r e e a b l e a n d t h e t a st e
'

p , ,

a n a c q u ir e d o n e .

T h e r e a r e m a n y k i n d s o f j a c k fr u i t ; t h e b e st a r e n o t b a d -

e a t in g if r e vio s ly s o a k e d i n sa l t a n d wa t e r O r a n g e s g row
p u .

i n t h e h ill y di st ri c t s b u t t h e m o st d e licio u s a r e t h o se from

,

B u r m a a n d Ass a m T h e papoi a i s a l so a fa vo u ri t e fr u i t o f
.

m i n e ; I p r e fe r i t t o t h e m e lo n T h e m u s k m e lon a n d t h e .
-
 Ge l a be r , 1 8 96 .

M R E DWARD ARNOLDS .
’

an 0085 aa h u n nu n ru n u t ts .

LO NDON : 37 BE DFORD S TRE E T .

NE W YOR K : 70 FI FTH AV E NUE .

THE ADVE NT U RE S OF MY LIFE .

By HE N RI R O CHE F O R T .

a u t h o r se d i E n gl i sh e d it i on ,
re vi se d an d s p i ll y
ec a a r ra n g ed by M .

R OC H E FO R T , a n d t ra n sl a t e d u n d e r h is p e r son a l su p vi er s io n by
E . W S M IT H
.
,
e di tor of t h e D a i ly Al e sse n g e r i n P a r i s .

I n two v ol u m e s, l a r g e c rown 8v o .
,
2 55 .

I n th i s w or kM . i
H e n r R o c h e fo r t t e ll s t h e a m az i g n st o r y o f h is ad v e n t u r ou s

l i fe . Am o n g th e m ore im p or t a n t e pi so d e s a r e th e au th or s
’
p e r so n a l n a r ra

v
t i e of t h e F re n c h Co m m u n e , h i s su b qse uen t tra n s p or t a t o n i to th e p enal

se t t l e m e n t of N e w Ca l e d o n i a , h i s m a r v ll
e o u s e sc a p e, h is n u m e r o u s d u e l s, h i s
re s id ence gl in E n an d, an d h is de e l py i n t e r e st i gj
n o u r n a l st c i i v en tu re s .

The w k iorpp s a e a r in g i fi n ve v ol u m es in F h re n c ,
but M . R o c h e fo r t h a s
d e c id e d t p p o re a re a sp i l ec a an d, i n m an y p re s e c t s, or i gi na l v e r si on in
E gl i h f
n sl i th i t y
o r sa e h h dn d th b lk f t h w k t t w
s c ou n r e a s re uc e e u o e or o o

h andy v l m by m i t t i g m h t h t i f p l y l l i t t d l t
o u e s, o n uc a s o u re oc a n e re s ,
an se e c

i g
n ly hon f hi dv su ct ow i ll p p l t E gli h p k i g d
s a e n u re s a s a ea o n s -
S ea n rea e rs .

Ap t f m t h v l
ar ro f th m tt e th b il li
a ue o f M R h f t tyl i e a e r, e r ance o . oc e or
’
s s e s

t i d hi
n o or o u s , a n t gp lity p t
s s ron t v y p g f th w k T h e r so n a ene ra e s e er a e o e or . e

t l ti
ra n s a i b i g d t k
on si Pe n i by M E W S m ith
un d it
er a f th en n ar s r. . .
,
e or o e

D i ly I ll
a g i d ily
e sse i z mm ier ti , w ith t h
n th a co un ca on e au or .
 Mr E d w a r d Ar n ol d L i st
’
2 . s .

TH R O U G H U N K NOWN AF R I CAN C O U N T R I E S .

T h e Fi r s t E xpe i
d it o n f r o m S o m a l i l a n d t o La k e
Ru d o l f a n d La m u .

A N a rra ti v e of Sc i en t ifi c E xpl or a t o n i an d S p or tin g Ad v e n tu re s .

By A . D O N AL D S O N S M I TH ,

H on . M em ber of th e Ac a d e m y of N a t u r a l S c i e n c e s , P il a d e l h ph i a .

\V t h i n e a rl y 30 fu l l - p g a e P la t e s an d a g
la r e nu m b e r o f s m a ll e r I ll u s t r a t i on s,

d r a w n fr o m t h e a u t h or s
’

P h ot o g phra s an d S k e tc h e s b y A D . .

M C CO R M I CK , CH AR L E S W H YM P E R, e tc .

L g ar e 8vo .
,
On e Gu in e a .

The b dy f th w k
o o e or is oc c u pi ed b y th e n a rra t iv e of x p di t i
th e e e on ,
an d
i ts v l bl
a ua i tifi e sc e n c r e su l t s a re gi v i en n a se r e s i of App di en ces to b e
c on r t i b t d by h mi
u e su c e nen p
t s e c i a l i st s as Dr . B ow dl e r Sh p D G ar e, r . un th e r ,
Dr . G g y M re B l
or ,
r .
g e r , M r P oc o c k , D r H ol l a n d , a n d
ou e n . . ot h e r s.

Dr . D o n a l d son S m ith a r r i e d a t v
e r e r a , o n t h e c o a st B b of S om a l la n d , i
a b t M id m m
ou su e r, 1 8 94 . D u rin g p vi a re ou s e xp e d i t i on un de r t a k e n fo r
S p ti g p p
or n ur o se s i n S om a l i l a n d , h e h a d c on c e i v e d th e pl an of p e n e t ra ti n g
in t o th e un k n ow n i n t e r i or of t h e D a r k Con t i nen t a n d fo r c i g
n h is wa y t o
L a k e R u d ol f . Th e p r e se n t v ol u m e t e l l s h ow h e wa s bl d t en a e o i v
a c h e e h is

o bj ect a ft e r j u st a ye a r
’
s m arc h ,
b e se t by c on s a n t t d g d an ers a n d i ffi l t i cu es

t h a t w ou l d h a v p v e ro e d fa t a l t o a l e ss h a rd y or p v i g x pl
e r se er n e or e r . F m ro

L a k e R u d ol f D r . i
D on a l d son S m t h m a d e h i s w a y t o t h e e a st c oa s t a t La m u ,
by wh ic h tim e h e h a d m a r c h e d n o l e ss t h a n fo u r t h o u s a n d m i l e s .

Dr S m . it h fo u n d i t n e c e ssa r yt o t a k e with h im th e c o n sid e r a bl e fo r c e of

e igh t y a rm e d m en ,
for s e l f- d e fe n c e in c a se o f a t t a c k by t h e sa v g a e tr ib e s of

th e in te ri or, an d on m o r e t h a n o n e o c c a si on th e fo r c e w a s ca ll d i
e n to ac i t on
in a m o st e x c it in g m ann er . The p a rt y xp e e rie n c e d a ll k i n ds of h a r ds h ip s

and p il b er s, u t i g
no t h n w a s a l l o w e d t o n e r e r e w i t h t h e s c i e n t i t f ifi c o bj e c t s of

th x p dit i
e e e on ,
g p b
a l t h ou h s or t , o t h fo r i t s o w n sa k e a n d fo r ur p p ose s o f foo d
su pp l y fi l l d ,
e an im p t t pl or a n ace in th e pl ans .

V l bl a ua e c ol l e c t i on s w e r e m a d e o f pl t bi d i an s, r s, n se c t s, g e ol o gi cal s p i ec

m en s, a n d e th n o g ph i ra c a l c u r i o si t i e s, by w h i h t h g c e re a t m u se u m s o f Am e r i c a
a nd E u ro p e ha v b e een se n s i bl y e n ric h e d . D r D o n a l d son S m i t h d
. i sc o v e re d

a t ow n i n wh i c h th e re we r e s t on e h ou se s an d b e a u t ifu l sh r i n e s, in re gi on s

wh e re on ly m d u h u t s we re su pp o se d to e xi st . He ca me in t o p r ol o n g e d
c on ta c t w i th t h e w a r l ik e A by ssi n i a n s , a n d wa s e v en th e rec ip i en t of a n

a u to g phra l e t t e r fr o m th e E mp e r or M e n e l ek . H is j ou rn e yt oo k h i m t h r ou h g
som e o f t h e lo v e l i e st s c e n e r yi n th e w or l d .
4 Mr . E dw a r d A r n old
’
s L i st .

T HROUGH THE S UB - ARCT I C FORE S T —Con t i n u e d .

. i
M r P k e i s w e l l k n o wn a s d e sc r e d
an e x pl or e r, a n d in th e j ou r n e y n ow ib
v
h e t r a e r se d so m e c o m l e t e l u n k n o wn c o u n t r p
r ou n d t h e P e l l La k e sy For y y .

man y
m on t h s h e su o r t e d h i m se l f e n t i re l pp h u n ti n and sh i n , e n y by g fi g b i g
b
a so l u t e l y
c u t o ff fr om a n y Ch a n c e o f o t a i n i n su l es S u c h a j ou r n e b g pp i . y
c ou l d n o t fa i l t o b e rodu c t e of m a n p
e c i ti n iv
e i so d e s, a n d t h ou h t h e y x g p g
a u t h or t r e a t s t h e m l ig y
h t l , t h e h a r d s h i s h e w e n t t h r o u h fo r m a fi n e t e st o f p g
t h e tru e e xp
l or e r s s i r t
’
p i .

Th Sp Li b r a r y
’
e or ts m an s .

E dit e d by S ir H E R B E RT M AX W E L L , B a rt , . M P . .

Th i i w ill
s se r e s it f l ti f m th b t w k f p t w it
c on s s o a se e c on ro e es or s o as r ers
on p t
s orf l ly h
,
i th
c a re u t f th i lit
c o se n y m it f th e er on a c c ou n o e r e ra r er ,
o e
l ig h t t h w by t h m
ro th nh bit d e
e f byg
on g f th i
e a s an r e so u r c s o a on e a e , or o e r

p m er t v l e
anen t ib t i a u t k wl d g as f th v i
c on r bj t u on s o no e e o e a r ou s su ec s
d l t w i th
ea .

Th v l m e w i ll b i
o u d t th es t f tw th e y ssu e Th y w ill a e ra e o o or ree a ear . e

c on t i i
a n v yi t n ei t d t y h p t by t h E d i t
er n s anc e d an h n ro uc or c a er e or, a n su c

t
n o es as m y b y t x pl
a t th
e n e c e s sa r th t t m t o e a i n o r c or r e c e au
’
or s s a e en s .

I ll t ti
u s ra i th igi l w k
on s wh n f ffi i t m
e or it i t t w i ll
na or s, en o su c en er or n e re s ,

be p d d i f i m il
re ro uce pp l m t d w i t h w
n acs by t h m d e, su e en e ne on e s e o e rn

ar ti t s sb t q lifi d t d l wit h th v
es ua e bj t Am g t ho ea ti t e a r i ou s su ec s . on e ar s s
wh o se p ti h c o- o l dy b
e ra on d M as G E L dg
a re a een se c u r e a re e s sr s . . . o e,

J G M ill i A T h b
. . a C Wh ym p
s, . G H J ll or d A C C burn ld
, . e r, . . a an ,
. . or ou ,

P Ch . i Ten ev x h t ren c ,
e c .

Th i f th v l m
e s ze o w ill b h d m 8
e o u d p i l es w ill b e a an so e v o an s ec a c a re e

b t w d p v y d t i l f p p p i t d b i d i g T h f l l w i g w i ll
es o e u on e er e a o a e r, r n ,
an n n . e o o n

b p bl h d t h i
e u is e s se a so n

TH E L I F E O F A FOX .

B y T H O M AS S M I T H ,

M t f t h H m bl d
a s er o d P yt h l y H e a e on a n c e ou n ds .

W ith I llu s t ti
ra b y t h A th
on s d S I X CO L O U R E D e u or an P L AT E S by
G . H .
J AL L AN D .

yb d 5 La r g e 8vo .
,
h a n d so m e l ou n ,
1 5 .

Al l im it d L g p p E d it i tw g i
so a t e ar e- a er on , o u nea s n e .

T h i v l m w i ll t i b th f S m i t h p b l i h d w k
s o u e Th c on a n o o
’
s u s e or s L fe o f a e i
d Th Di y f p t ti
‘
H
’
th
’
F ox
’
an t m Th e ar o a u n s an . e au or s r e u a on a s a h u n t s
m w ll
an , h i g i ft
as f l t y xp
e i d hi
as k ill s o i e ra r e r e ss o n an s S as a s iri te d p
d gh t m m d t h b k x d i gl y p p l i t h i d y
ra u s an ,
a e e se oo s e cee n o u ar n e r a , a n d th e y
h v a w b
e no m v y eco e er ra re .
 Mr E dw a r d Ar n old L i st
’
s
. .
5

Th e Sp or ts m an
’
s Li b r a ry — C on t inu e d .

A S P O R T I N G T O U R TH R O U G H TH E NO R TH E R N
P A R T S O F E NGLAN D AN D G RE A T P A R T O F ,

TH E H I G H LAN D S O F SC O T LAN D .

By C l l T T H ORN T ON f Th v ill R y l i Y k h i
o on e .
, o or n e o a , n or s re .

W i th a se l e c t i on fr om t h e o r i i n a l l l u st r a t o n s g
G a r r a r d , p or t r a t s o f t h e i i by i
Au t h o r , g F B
and n ew la te s p
G E Lod e , C by
e n n e tt , a n d o t h e r s
. . . . .

L g 8 h d m ly b d 5 ar e vo .
, an so e ou n ,
1 5 .

Al l im it d L g p p E dit i
so a tw g i t e ar e- a er on , o u neas n e .

T h i w k p bl i h d i S 4 d v i w d t h
s or ,
u s x t y by S i W l t
e n I O ,
an re e e e n e ear r a er
S tt i th E d o g l R i w h
co n e v b '

zn p i t d I t i xt m ly
zzr z ev e ,
as n e er ee n re r n e . s e re e
i t
n e re sti g t nly ,
t f th
no g ph ion d ip t i on f h ti g a c c ou n o e ra c e sc r on s o s oo n ,

h wk i g gl i g b t b h wd b
’
a dn ,
an f th an th n ,
ti u e c a u se o e au or s s re o se r v a on s on

th t t f i ty d m d hi ym p th ti d i pt i f y e
-

e s a e o s oc e an a n n e r s, a n s s a c e sc r on o sc e n e r .

TH E S P O R T S MAN I N I RE LAN D .

B y CO S M O P O L I T E .

W ith n u m e rou s i ll t t i d l
u s ra d pl t b y P C H E N E V I X T R E N CH
on s a n c o ou r e a es . .

NE W A ZVD CH E A P E R E D I TI ON

A LITTLE TO U R IN I RE LAND .

B y O X O N I AN ‘ ’

(T h V y R S R E Y N O LD S H O L E ) e er ev . . .

Wi h l y f t y I ll t ti t b y J OH N LE E CH
n ear or u s ra on s .

L g w 8 0 ar e c ro n vo .
,
5 .

Th i f m b k b i g w ti l y t f p i t
s a ou s oo e nw di ti t i i g
no en re ou o r n , a ne e on ,
c on a n n

a ll t h ig i
e or l pl t h nab p p d d w i ll b i d t p p l
a e s, as een re a re ,
an e s su e a a o u ar

p i i d th t it m y t k it h i h g d w k f p m t g
r ce, n or er a a a e s s a re n t e oo or o ro o in a

b tte q i t
er ac w ith t h
ua n h m f th E m ld I l J h L h d
an ce e c ar s o e e ra s e . o n eec an

hi f i
s d
r en Ox i
‘
ld t it i
on a n t f ’
th bi th f t h I i h
c ou n o ,
s ru e , o r e se e e r o e r s

T i t A i ti
ou r s b t th
ss o c a i i m it b l p
on : il f t h ti t d th g i l
u e n a e en c o e ar s an e en a

p en f toh D f
e R h t h
ean v h l
o p d i m l
oc l d g t f m i l
es eri i a e e e n no s a e re e o a a r ze

th E gl i h p bl i
e n w i th t h
s u mb l c tt ti f I l d d it e n u e r e ss a ra c on s o re a n an s

l
au gh t l v i g p pl
e r- o n eo e .
6 M r E d w a r d A r n ol d L i st
’
. s .

TH E CHAN GE S OF D E ATH ;
AND OT HE R S T UDI E S I N E VOLUT I ON .

B y K AR L P E A R S O N ,
A n t /t or f
o T h e E t /zi e f
o F r ee T e tc .

g m D my 8
W it h 6
I l l u st r a t i on s a n d D ia ra s . e vo .
, 1 s

Th i i th fi t b t s s l w k p b l i h d by P f
e rs P
su i his an ti a or u s e r o e s so r e a r son s n c e s
w ll k
e w E th i
-
f F
n o T h g h t pp d m y
n c o g Th v l m re e ou
’
a eare so e e a rs a o . e o u e
t i
c on v l i tfi
a ns y d l i g w i t h Ch
se e ra i
sc e nv i p t i c e s sa s ea n ance n a r ou s a s ec s,
f m t h Ch
ro f D eth t ll d G m
ances o of Ch d p i t t ea o so - c a e a es a n c e, a n o n s ou
h w f
o m th m ti l th
ar y ap d with t l e a lt ca A th e or c or r e s on s ac ua r e su s . n o er
ie
se r f p p di
s o p bl m f d p i t t i
a e rs ti w i th
sc u ss e s ro e s o ee n e re s n c on n e c on
\V m o d L b an w h il anth i d ti d l wi th i m p
a t
ou r , t p bl m f e a r se c on ea s or a n ro e s o
m d o p liti l p g
e rn o ca ro r e ss .

H A B I T AN D I NS T I NC T .

A S t dy i H d it y u n e re .

B y C L L O Y D M O R G AN .
,

A u l /zor A n i m a l L if e
’

f
’

f
o an d b z t e l l ig e rze e ,
T I ze S p r i n g s o Con d u c t ,
e tc .

Dem y 8v o .
,
1 65 .

I n t h e w i n t e r o f 1 8 9 5 96 P r o fe sso r Ll o d M o r a n d e l e r e d t h e s e r e s o f
-
y g iv i
L o e l L e c t u r e s w h i c h fo r m t h e
w l ’
a si s of t h i s w o r k T h e s u e c t i s on e b . bj
w h ic h h a s b
e e n t h e a u t h or s s e c i a l s t u d y fo r m a n e a r s, a n d i n t h e
’
r e se n t p yy p
vol u m e h e h a s gv
i e n t h e m a t u r e r e su l t o f h i s r e se a r c h e s .

N ENT SU M M AR Y OF CO T S

—I L I V O b v t i
.

I P l im i y D fi i ti d I ll t ti Y g Bi d
— g M m m l —V I O t h R l t i f C i
. re nar e n on s a n us ra on s -
se r a on s o n ou n r s.
V Ob v ti
.

Y
d t H bi t —
se r a on s o n t
ou n a a s n e e a on o o n sc o u sn e ss o
l l ig A q i iti
.

I VI I O t h R l ti f I th f
H bi t — V I I I O I m i t t i —I X O t h E m t i i t h i R l t i t I t i t
t t
ns inc an o a t . . n e e a on o n te en c e o e c u s on o

—X I O t h I t i t f
a s n a on n e o on s n e r e a on o ns nc

m H bi t P i i g S
. . .

X O d I f th
—X I I O h R l t i f O g i t
. n so t te a s an ns in c s o e a r n e a son n e ns nc s o

N t b i l di g I b ti d M ig t i
.

—X I I I A A q i d H b i t i h i t d —X I V O M d i fi t i
es -
u n , ncu a on an ra on n t e e a on o r an c o
t l E v l ti
.
,

M
r
Z
—XV H b i t d I ti t i M
en a o u on . re c u re a s n er e . n o ca on
and V i ti ar a on . a an ns nc n an .

TH E RE L I G I O N S O F I N D I A .

B y E D W AR D W AS H B U R N H O P K I N S P h D ( L ip i g ) ,
. . e z ,

P f f S k i
r o e ssord C mp i v P h il l gy i
o ans B y M w C ll g
r t aU S A n o a ra t e o o n r n a r o e e, . . .

Ov 6 p g d m y 8 8 6d t er 00 a e s, e vo
,
. s . n e .

Th i i th fi t v l m f im p t t i
s s e rs t itl d H
o udb k th e o an or a n se r e s e n e an oo s on e

H i t y f R ligi
s or Am og t h th v l m e w i
on s f p p
.
’
on e o er o u es n o n c ou r se o re a ra

ti th
on a r e d l i g wit h th l ig i
o se f (i i ) B b y l
ea i d P i (iii )
n e re on s o . a on a an e rs a , .

th A i t T t
e
(i ) P i ( i ) E gy p t ( i i ) I
n c en e u o n s, l v . e rs a , V .
,
v . sr a e .
 M r E dw a r d A r n ol d L i st
3 ’

7 . s .

O L D E NGL I S H GLAS S E S .

An Ac c ou n t of G l a ss Dr i n k i n g - V e ss e l s i n E n g la n d fro m E a r ly Tim e s
to the e n E g h t e e n t h Ce n t u r y
d of the i . W i th I n t r o d u c t or y N ot i c e s of

i
Co n t n e n t a l G l a sse s d u r n t h e sa m e e r i g p i od , Or igi n al D o c u m e n t s, e tc .

B y AL B E R T H AR T S H O R N E ,

Fe l l o w of th e S oc i e t y of An t i qu a r i e s .

by p w
I l l u st r a t e d p g Ti t d P l t i th b t t yl f
u a r ds o f 50 fu l l - a e n e a es n e es s e o

Li th o g ph y d v
ra l h d d ,
tl i
an I ll t ti
se i th
e ra t xt S p un re ou n e u s ra on s n e e . u er

y l 4t p i T h G i t ro a o.
, r ce re e u n eas n e .

Th pl t d e tli ill t ti
a es an p p df ou p d t i by M
ne u s ra on s a r e re a re or re ro uc on r .

W S \V t h l y
. . d M R P ea l p ti v l y f m f ll i
er an r l . . au re s ec e ,
ro u -
s ze or sc a e

d wi g
ra b th n th s f th yt l d i ki g v
e au l i or ly v y o e ac ua r n n -
e s se s n n ear e er

i t T h t x t w i ll b p i t d i t h
n s an ce . efi t tyl
e d th l it h g ph i
e r n e n e n es s e , an e o ra c

w k x t d by M
or e ecuW G i gg e d S Th v l m i
e ssr s w i
. th . r s an on . e o u e s no ~
n e

p d will it i h p d b
r e ss , a n dy f d liv y b f
,
s th o d f th y
e , e re a or e er e or e e en o e ear .

T h Fi t E di t i
e w ill b
rs lim it d t O Th on d C pi t Th e G i e o ne ou sa n o es a re e u n ea s

n et .

N O TE .
—
A f a l l p r ospe c t u s, g i v i n g a c omp l e t e a c c ou n t of f l i e p r i n c ip a l c on t e n t s of t /12s
'

e l a bor a t e a n d m a n i c e n t w or k , t ol l i c l z t r e a t s o
g fi f a su b e c t n e v e r be or e c om r e h e n s i v e l
j f p y
’
n n a er ta l e n
f or E n g l a n d , c a n be b a d p ost f r e e on app l i c a t i on
e
.

A T RE AS U R Y O F M I N O R B R I T I S H P O E T R Y .

S l t d d
e ec g d w i t h N t by J CH U R T O N CO L L I N S
e an a rra n e ,
o e s, . .

Cr o wn 8 V O . .
7s 6 d
. .

I n c om p il i g t h i v
n s ol u m e M r Ch u r t o n Coll
. i ns h as b een i fl n uenced by a

d e si r e t o fo r m a c ol l e c t i on o f p o e t r y c on t a in in gm y h an c a rm in g pi e ces h ith e rto

i g n or e d in si m il ar w or k s . I t is b e li e v ed th a t m p il
co e r s o f a n t h ol o gi es ha v e

c on fi ne d t h e m se l v es t oo m u c h t o a fe w st a n da r d a u t h o r s, a n d t h a t th e r e a r e

a n um b e r of l e ss k n ow n w r t e r s w h o h a
-
i v e c om p d ose on e or two p oe m s qu i t e
as fin e as an y t h i g by t h n e g re at m a st e r s . Th e p r e se n i
t se l e c t o n w ll r e i v eal a

m i ne o f h i th t p
e r o u n su s ected t r e a su r e s t o m an yl v o e r s of E n gl i sh P oe t y r .

E A R L Y E NGL I S H F U R N I T U RE .

An Ac c ou n t of the Fa m o u s E n g l is h Ca b i n e t m a k e -
rs ,

W ith n u m e r ou s fi n e I l l u st r a t i on s of th e ir W o rk .

By M rs . W A RR E N CL O U S T O N .

I v ol .
,
c row n 4t o .
 il l r E d w a r d A r n old L i st
’
. s .
9

‘
TH E C R UI S E O F TH E AN T A R C T I C
T O TH E S O U T H P O L A R RE G I ON S .

By H .
J B U LL
.
,

A Me mb er o f t h E x p d iti
e e on .

W i th fr on t i pi
s ece by W . L . W YLL I E , an d nu m e r o u s fu ll -
p g ill
a e u st r a

ti on s by W G . . BU N R - M U R D O CH .

Dem y 8v o .
,
1 55 .

Th e b ook is on e of a d v en tu r e i n a n ot h b er e si d e s th e c om m e r c i a l se n se , a n d as a

r e c or d o f An t a r c t i c e x pl or a t ion o n e of t h e m o st a t t r a c t i e i n v p r n i t .
’
—D a i ly N e w s .

I n r e a din g hi s n a rr a t i v e w e fe e l n on e o f th e en n u i and w or r y of th e v y g Th
o a e. e

aut h ’
or s fu n l i gh t ens u
p i n a m ost w e l c o m e wa y a ta l e w ic h h h a s in it m h h i uc t a t s

i n t r i n si c a ll yi n t e r e st i n g —
. S c ot sm a n .

PERSIA REVISITED .

W it h Re m a r k s on Hl M . . . Mo z u ffe r - e d - Di n Shah, a nd the P r e se nt

S it u a t io n i n Pe r s ia

By Ge n e ra l S ir T . E . G O RD O N , CB . .
, CS I. .
,

F or m e r l y M il i t y At t
ar ach é an d O r ie n t a l S e c r e t a r y to th e B i ti
r sh Le g a t ion

at T e h e ra n ,

A u i /zor f
o T b e R oof f
o [ be e tc .

Dem y 8 w i th f l l p g i ll t
vo , . u -
a e u s r a t i on s, 1 0 3 . 6d .

A b ook r e pl e te with fi t h d k wl dg
rs -
d an no e e, a n on e t h a t m u st fo r t h e p r e se n t be
g a rde d i n di s p bl t d q q i wit h th e c on d i t i o n a nd

—A
re as e n sa e o an a e u a te ac u a n ta n c e

p p r os e c ts of P e r si a .
’
be r a e e n F r e e P r e ss .

TH E E A R L Y C H A R T E RE D C OM P AN I E S ,

A D . . 1 2 96 - 1 8 5 8 .

By G E O RG E CAW S TON B , i
a r r st e r - a t -L a w ,

AN D

A H K E AN E. .
,
FRGS . . .

La r g e c row n 8v o .
,
w i t h fr o n t i pi s ec e, 10 5 . 6d .

Ca w st o n c la im s h v l igh t d
to a e e on a n a l m ost une x pl o re d fi e ld o f r e se a r c h ,
an d
i t m u st b e c o n c e de d t h t hi v l m f
a s o u e u r n is h g td
es a re a e a l of i n t e r e st i n g i n fo r m a t i o n
hi h wi h i d m u st fo r t h e m o st p th v b gh fo r i n
—
w c t ou t i ts a ar a e een sou t sou r c e s n o t

a c c e ssi b l e t o o r di n a r y r e a d e r s.
’
D a i 1y N e w s .
 Mr E dw a r d A r n ol d L i st
’
I O . s .

TH E E XP LO R A T I O N O F TH E CA U CAS U S .

B y D O U G LAS W F R E S H F I E L D .
,

L t ly P
a e i d t f t h Al pi Cl b d H
re s en o y S t y f th R y l
e ne u ,
an o n or a r e c re a r o e o a

G g ph i l S i ty eo ra ca oc e .

W ith C t ib ti on r b y H W H O L D E J G CO C K I N H W O O LL E Y M D E
u on s . . R, . .
,
.
, .

D CH Y d P f BON N E Y D S E F R S ,
an ro .
,
. c .
,
. . .

I ll t t d by 3 P
u s ra e m 74 F ll p g P h t g v a n or a b t 4 I ll t
a s, u -
a e o o ra u r e s, a ou 1 0 u s ra

ti on s i th n t xt h i fl y f m P h t g ph
e e , c b y V I T T O I O S E LLA d 4
e ro o o ra s R
,
an

O i gi r l M p na i l d i g t h fi t th t i m p f t h C
a s, n c u n p i ll y
e rs au en c a o e a u c a su s s ec a

p p d f m p bl i h d re a re b y M F R E S H F I E LD
ro un u s e s ou r c e s r . .

I tw v l m l g 4t 6 p g T h
n o o u e s, G i ar t e o .
,
00 a e s, re e u n eas ne .

W ly
e c a n on y i w d h sa m i ni g m a vi vid m or i
t i a t a or e n t e r e st n or e or e c o n sc e n t ou s ,
x h i v d i p m h il l g mp iv ly
, , , ,

m o re e a u st e an n f gia r ts y or e t r in a c c ou n t o a re on a s et c o a ra t e n u
v m bf d f x pl v b p b li h d i
, ,

k now h n as n e N
er c o e i h
e o r e u s. o re c or o e o r a t on as e er een u s e n
t hi s c ou n t r yi p l d id m i l f m d b y d
n so s en di i a pi a ter f a or an e on c on tra c t on no c tu r e s o
x p h v pp h d h v y p h
, , ,

i i ll h l i f l mb
—
m o u n ta n s t o u st ra t e t e e mo ts o c i e rs a e a r oa c e t e er nu e r ou s ot o

g rap h f S
s oi g S ll D i ly C/
n or i / e a .
’
a z r on e e .

M h C i ly h m t im p
’
F r h fi ld w k re s e s m
or on t em i i g
a u c a su s s n ot e re t e os or t a n t ou n t a n e e r n
k f h y p b b ly h m i m p h h b p b li h d i h m
.

b oo o t b e ear ut ro a t e o st or t a n t t at as e en u s e s nce t e ti e
f T y d ll E v y p m i p m
,

f M k i
'

o n d B ll
a an a F h fi ld b er l id d wi l la rt o r re s e s oo s so an re a n er a
ly v l I b i g wi h i w v l m d f v y hi g h
.
.
,

n en t bl a ua e t h r n s t hn t b d o o u es t e r e c or o e er t n t a t as een on e
f v y hi g h g h fi y i gh y
.

x pl i b y x p l i m b —1V1 /
an d h t b e su st a n c e o h b l e d er t w n t a f
t as een e a rn t u ri n t e r st t en t -
e t e a rs o
’

C i
aucas a n e or a t o n G di
e e rt c e rs . a n e ze st e r ua r a n .

Tw p b v l m N b k f v l x p l i wi h i
o su er o u es Om mb oo h o t ra e or e o ra t on t n ou r r e e ra n c e as
h w l h f il l i whi h d pi
.

di l sc ose d su c a i ea h t w b fo u st r a t o n d as t e one no e or e u s , n c a re e c te
e v yC er a u c a s i a n ra n
g d m i f y m m e an wi h p f l ou n d h pta n o an o en t t e r e c t c e a r n e ss a n s ar n e ss
Th d ph g ph h wh l N hi g h
.

i s n ot bl d wi g i ll io to or ra n t e o e e c t on ot
h i m g i fi w k —D i ly T l g ph
e re on e u rre ra n co n as

d h ld i m p m pl
.

'

b een o mi tte t a t c ou a rt c o e t e n e ss t o t s a n c en t or . a e e ra

Wh i gl at s n h m g ifi v l m es t e se v yb i fi p
a n f m ll l m b i g
cen t o u e s ou t on a er r e ns e c ti on ro a c i n
l i t e ra i
t u re h f s t h ill a t i w
or o n c e t hy f h x I f h p b l i h h d e u st r a t o n s a re or t o t e te t t e u s e rs a
h i g b y d g i vi g h m g i fi p d i f m h m wh i h
.

d on e n o t n e on n us t e se a n cen t re ro u c t on s ro t e ca e ra s c
S ig S ll
n or de h hv a an i d pw d ot f e rs f a b v he c a rr e h y l d il l u ar s o ee t a o e t e se a t e w ou st
p g v ly
,

b i l d
e en t t e to ou r d g i d M F h fi ld h
r a i se a n ra t tu f h m e r re s e as i en u s t ru on e o t e o st
d l gh f l d i pi i g w k p h v l i g h il l w h i h y l ib y h ld
. .

“ !

e i t u an ns r n or s u on t e e e r a st n s c an ra r can o
d i i p d d wi h mp wh i h i i pl ,

an t s d ro d i ll uce an u st ra t e fi d t a su t u o u sn e ss c t s a e a su r e to n so
’

w ll be w d e st o B i m i g/ m P t
e .
-
r 7z za os .

Th ‘
w v l m e t o g o u ly f m h
es a re p i “
dp i re a f m
t, m n ot on ro t e ro sa c st a n o n t o e a su r e en t
an d d p i b
a v ou pu mi o s, ly i uh mt m r e -e i f p
nent i g i fi i so n t e o re e r i t o r o u s se n se o re r e se n t n n n te
l ba i
ou r h m
n i g
t f m
e a i l a ss n fi h d d h ig h l o y d i i k il l i
a te r a s a t r st an an i te ra r an a r t st c s n
d ph g p hy i x v
,

bl d g l
en in p e tte r
—L i p l P t r e ss a n w y l l
'
d h
ot o dm i
ra f n a a c a c u a te to e t or t t e a i ra t on e e n o
h m i l
ost st o c a d
h l h i p —Gl g w H l d
t e re a er . v er oo os .

A p i l y x m pl f B i i h
'
r nce e a e o r t s sc o a rs . as o er a .

E gh p h p h
n ou b er id i a mms, d i as f h v l m whi h i
e e n sa n rec o en a t on o t e se o u e s, c a re n st r u o

iv wi h b i g d d vli f m i ih f g id b
,

t e t ou t f ll f
e n i ac tic y gg ui o no k e n or a t on w t ou t an su e st on o u e- oo
h h g ph i d ip i y wi h v d di g
,

li t e ra t u r e w i m ic c on ta n f h ost ra c e sc r t on s o t e sc e n e r t ou t e er e sc e n n

w d p i i g d whi h iv im p h v hm f
, ,

to or - a nt n an f c h w ll w c on tr e to a rt re s n e ss e en to t e e -
o rn t e e o
xp d i d ffi p i h ig h l y h m p
,

m i
ou n t a n d g l ci an I w a ld ber el e ti on s t ou e i cu t to ra se t oo t e a

O ly h y ll b b l pp i h g g p h i l k wl d g d h
. .

n f w a e in t i s c ou n tr Wi e a e to a re c a te t e eo ra ca no e e an t e

i fi i
n n l b te ah h ou r t i f hi m p m
at t hv
e c on st r u c t o n o F h fi im h t s a u st a e c os t or t e rst t e t e
p g p hy f h i g m h i f m E lb K b k i l id d w i i y
.

to o ra o t s re a t ou n t a i n - c i a n ro ru z to as e s a o n n t s e n t re t
W h it y d h x — f h gl l y m l ly d m
a c c u ra c an t e e te n t o d t l f
e a c ia s ste 15 c ea r e o n st r a t e on a sc a e o
h M C I N T N D E N T i T / D i ly N w
,
'
a b ou m il
t i e s t o on e nc . r . L O , n ze a e s .
 M r E dw a r d A r n old L i st
’

12 . s .

’
WAGN E R S H E R O I N E S .

B R U N N H I L D A— S E N T A—I S O L DA .

B y CO N S T AN CE M AU D ,

A u t h or H e r oe s
' ’
of l Va g u e r s .

I ll u st ra t e d b y J . W M AU D . . Cr o w n 8 v o .
, 55 .

S E CON D E D I TI ON .

’
WAGN E R S H E R O E S .

P ARS I FA L — T A N N H AUS E R — L OH E N GRI N —HAN S S ACHS .

B y CO N S T AN CE M AU D .

I ll t t d by G R A N V I L L E F E L L
u s ra e C w 8 5 . ro n yo .
,
5 .

Mi M d h d f th Sh k p f m i w h t Ch l L mb d id
—D i ly T l g p h
ss au as on e or e a es e a re o us c a ar es a on c e
l Sh k p
’
fo rth e re a a es e a re a e e ra

v y i t i m p l l g g th h i t i f
.

‘
C t M d h l t d t
d d d m i bl y —
on s a n c e au as e ec e o c on e n o s e an ua e e s or e s o
H d h Bl / W/ i t ’
’
’
VV g a ner s e r oe s , an a s su c c e e e a ra . ae e
au a t e .

NE W AN D P OP UL A R E D I TI OI V .

S E V E N T Y Y E A R S OF I R I S H L I F E .

B y t h l t W R LE P AN U C w 8 6
e a e ro n v o., 5

—E gl i h d S t h l t h I i h N
. . . .

‘
I t w i ll d l i gh t l l d a t i on a l i st s n o
g m —Ti m
e a rea e rs n s an co c no e ss an r s

h U i i t R m C th li th
,
’
l e ss t an n o n s s, l o O an a o cs n o e ss an ran e en . es .

F I F T Y L U NC H E S .

B y CO LO N E L KE N N E Y H E R BE RT ,

A u t /zor of Com m orz S e u se Cook e r y

‘ ’
-
, e tc .

Cr o w n 8 v o .
,
c l ot h ,
25 . 6d .

FANCY D RE S SE S DE SC RIBE D .

B y AR D E R N H O L T .

A Al p h b t i l D i t i
n y fF y C t m
a e ca c on a r o anc os u es .

i
\V t h fu ll t f th
a c c ou n Ds Ab t 6
o I ll t ti e by r e sse s . ou 0 u s ra on s L I LL I AN
Y OU N G M y f th m l d O
. an l d my 8
o e c o ou r e . ne v o .
, e vo .

A T E XT B O O K O F N U R S I NG FO R H OM E AN D
-

P
H O S I T AL U S E .

B y c . W E E KS S H AW .

v
R e i se d a n d l a r e l g y r e - w r i tt e n by W R AD O R D H . F ,
o u se S u r g e on a t t h e
p
P o l a r H os i t a l , p un de r t h e p vi i
su f S i D YC
er s on o r E D U C KW O R T H ,
M D . .
,
F l l y i ll t t d
u w u s ra e , c ro n 8v o .
 RE L U C TAN T E VA NGE LIST

AND OT HE R S T ORI E S .

B y AL I CE S P I N N E R ,

A u t /zor A S t u dy i n Col ou r
’ ’

f
o Lu ci lla , , e tc .

Cr o w n 8 y o .
,
65 .

I N TE R LU D E S .

By M AU D O XE N D E N .

C r o wn 8 v o .
, 65 .

TH E B A Y O N E T TH A T CAM E H OM E .

By N . VVY N N E W I LL I AM S,
A u l /i or of T a l es f M od e r n
’
o Gw ec e .

Cr o w n 8 v o .
, 3 s 6d . .

N e w \Vo r k by t h e Au t h o r of
‘
I n t o th e Hi h wa g y s an d He d g es .
’

WORTH WHILE .

By F F . . M ON TRE SOR ,

A u t /zor of ‘
H i g h w ay s d H e dg e s ,
’ ’

I u t o t /ze a n T h e On e w /zo l ook e d on , e tc .

On e v ol .
,
c r o wn 8v o .
,
c loth ,
25 . 6d .

T w o m o st p th
a e tic a n d b e a u t i fu l s t o r i e s m ake u h
p t is l i t t l e ol u m e T h e w r i te r i s v .

to be c on g ra tu l a te d on th e d e l ic a t e b ea u t y of her st o r i e s .
'
L i v e rp ool I V
-
I e r c u ry .

B th
o t h e st o r i e s in t hi v
s ol u me a re of v y p
er su e rior q u a l it y . The c h a ra c t e r s a r e

d is ti
nctly ori gi n a l, a n d t h e w or k m a n s hip i s a d m i ra b l e .
’
—Gl a sg ow He r a l d .
 Mr E d w a r d Ar n ol d L i st
’
14 . s .

R E CE N T WOR K S OF F I C T I ON
(S ee a l so p .

A N e w S t or y by t h A t h f T h R d B d ge u or o
‘
e e a e of Co u r a g e .
’

’
GE ORGE S M O THE R .

B y S T E P H E N C R AN E .

A u t /i or of
’
T li e R e d B a dg e o
f Cou r a g e , e tc .

Cl o t h , 25 .

‘
I h i s l a t e st w o r k S t e
n e n Cr a n e sc o r e s ph
e a il h v y
I t i s a sw a t c h t o r n fr o m t h e
g y h h v y h v y
.

r e a t w e b of c i t p
l i fe , a i c t u r e i n w i c e e r t o u c r e e a l s t h e t ru e l i t e r a r w or k m a n
p h g p h h h h
.

I t s a t os r i s t h e e a r t c l o se i t s c a r a c t e r s a r e t o t h e l i fe , a n d e r e a n d t e r e a r e
c au gh g t h
l e a m s of u m o u r t a t c om l e t e t h e s m m e t r
.
h of th e pa es y y
T h e a l re a dy pg
v b p h B g g h gh
.

e n i a l e r e u t a t i o n o f t h e a u t or of T h e Re d a d e o f Cou ra e w i ll b e e i te n e d
“

h v
b y t i s sm a l l o l u m e —
A l) e r a e e n F r e e P r e ss
’
.
’
.

H AD J I RA .

A T u r k is h Lo v e S t o r y .

‘
By AD A L E T fi
On e v ol .
,
c r ow n 8v o .
,
c l ot h , 65 .

y
Ce r t a i n l o n e o f t h e m o st i n t e r e st i n a n d a l u a l e w o r k s o f c t i on i ssu e d fro m t h e g v b fi
p r e ss fo r a l on t im e g
a st p v
E e n i f w e w e r e t o r e a r d t h e b o ok a s a n o r di n a r n o e l , g y v
h y g h
.

w e c ou l d c o m m e n d i t e a r t i l b u t i t s r e a t a l u e l i e s i n t h e fa c t t a t i t r e e a l s t o u s v v
h i dd e n w o r l d , a n d d o e s so w i t m a n i fe st h de l it B u t t h e r e a d e r m u st l e a r n fo r fi y
h —
a

h h h h g
.

i m se l f t h e l e sso n w i c t i s r e m a r k a b l e a n d fa sc i n a t i n b ook t e a c e s ’
S,oe a lee r
O n e o f t h e e st st or i e s o f t h e se a son —D a i ly C/zr on i c l e
b
. .

‘ ’
. .

By t h e Au t h or p th i f M of
‘
Th e A o e os s o r . T y r a wl e y .
’

A MAS K AN D A MA R T Y R .

By E LI V I N G S T O N P R E S C O TT
.
,

On e v ol , c r o w n 8v o c l ot h , 65
—
. .
,
.

A st o r y whi h c b e fo r o t t e n
on c e r e a d , w i ll ne v
I ll a n c l ze st e r Gu a r di a n
er g ’
.

Th by v b
, .

i s i s a n u n d e n i a l c l e e r ook p A i c t u r e o f se l f sa c r i fi c e so c o m l e t e a n d so -
p
g fi yb by fi y
.

e n du rin is a ra r e p
ic t u r e i n c t i on , a n d h a s r a r e l e e n m o re a l o r m or e nel

d ra wn Th g p h y h gh
i s si n u l a r a n d a t e t i c st o r i s t o l d a l l t r ou w i t r e m a r k a l e r e st r a i n t , h b
h gh x h h p h h gh g
.

a n d s o w s a st r e n t a n d sk i l l o f e e c u t i on w i c l a c e i t s a u t or i a m on th e
v
n o e l -w r i t e r s o f t h e d a
y We st m i n st er Ga z e t t e
.
’
.

TH E B O N D WOMAN .

A St ory of t h e No r t h m e n i n La k e l a nd .

By w . G . CO L L I N G W O O D ,
W or k
’
A u t lzor of Tli e L if e d f o/zn R u sk i n
’
T l zor ste i n o f t /ze I ll er e, an ]
0 , e tc .

Cl o t h , l om o .
, 3 5 6d . .

As for t h e t h gd t
r i l li n e a il s o f th e pl ot , an d th e ot h e r st er l i n g h c a r m s of th l i ttle
e

pg p y h h
w ork , w e m
t ou r i n g , or c on
u st

te
f
re e r

m pl t i ga
ou r

n
rea

a
d e rs t o i t s a e s, e s e c i a l l t
t ou r , i n W e st m o r l a n d a n d C u m b
ose
e r la n
of

d .
t
’
—
em
L
wh o
ee d s
m ay b e
M e r c u ry .
 16 M r E dw a r d Ar n old L i st
’
. s .

T i l O I VE I V VOL UM E S OF TH E CH I L D R E N S F A VO UR I TE
/ ’

E ach y I ll t t d p i
fu l l g il t dg 6d u s ra e ,
r c e 25 . e e s, 2 5 . .

M Y B O O K O F H E R O I SM .

M Y B O O K O F I NV E N T I O NS .

NE W AN D CH E A P E R E D I T I ON S .

G RE A T PU B L I C S C H O OLS .

H A RR O W W I N CH E ST E . R .

W E ST M I N S T M AR L B O R O U G H E R . .

H AI E Y B U R Y CL I FT O N L . .

C H AR T E R H OU S E .

With n e a rl y O n e H u n d r e d fi n e I l l u s t r a t i on s by th e b e st a r t s t s i .

La r g e im p i er a l 16m o .
,
c loth gil t , 3s 6d . .

As t o th e b y
i ta i l i t o f th e b o o k fo r p r iz e or p t t h b e n o t w o o i n i on s p
h dm t —
su r e se n e re c a n .

\Ve c or d ia l l y r e c om m e n d it to t h e n ot i c e of ea a s e rs .
’
E d u c a t i on a l R e v i ew .

T AL E S F R OM H AN S AN D E R S E N .

W i t h v T h i t y i g i l I ll t t i o by E A L E M AN N
er r or na u s ra on s . . .

Ab ti f l v l m 4t 3 6d eau u o u e, o .
, 5 . .

Mi L m h
ss t d i t th
e an np i i t f t h m t d l igh t f l f f i y l
as e n e re n o e s r o e se os e u o a r t a e s, a n d
m k a th b k p i l l y t t t i v by i t d i t y d d i p t i v il l t t i
es e oo s ec a a ra c e s a n an e sc r e u s ra on s .
’

3 t
. ad y R i
u r a ev e r tf

A v y h t i g g i ft b k f y g p p l H A d d l i gh t f l
.

‘
and
’

—
er enc an n oo or ou n eo e ans n e r se n s e u

b i g i l l t t d wi t h g d h m
,

ev w t i
er n e
-
s or e s e n L dy P i t i lu s ra e ra re ra c e a n c ar .
’
a
’
s c or a .

TH E SN OW Q U E E N ,

An d Ot h e r Ta l e s fr om Ha n s An d e r se n .

W i th v T h i t y i gi l I ll t t i o by E A LE M AN N
er r or na u s ra on s . . .

U if m w ith th b v l m 3 6d n or e a ov e o u e, 5 . .

Th wh i h tt d d t h p bl i t i
e su c c e ss l t y f th fi t i fH
c a en e e u ca on , as e a r, o e rs se r e s o an s
A d F i y T l h i i ll t d b y th m
’

h l d t i f f
g i m t x q i i t h k —Sp t t
n e r se n s a r a e s, as e o an ssu e o a re s se r e s , u s ra t e e sa e
ti t S w h v
’
ar s . o e a e a a n a os e u s e oo . e c a or

TH E B A TT L E S OF F RE D E R I C K TH E G RE A T .

E xt t d f m C l yl Hi t y f F d i k th G d E dit d b y
’
rac e ro t ar e s s or o re er c e re a ,
an e

CY R I L R A N S O M E ,
M A, . .

P ro fe ssor of H i st o r y a t th e Y or k s hi C ll g re o e e , Lee ds .

W ith nu m e r o u s I l l u st r a t i o n s b y AD O L P H M E NZ E L .

S qu a r e 8 v o .
, 35 . 6d .

y b ttl pi
Ca r l l e
’
s a e -
e ce s a re m o de l s d o f i c t u r e s u e w r i t i n , a n d i t wa s a
of c a re a n p q g
h pp y t h gh t d i
a ou h to is n te r t e m fr o m t h e ulk o f h
t e
“
b
H ist o r o f F r e d e r i c k Th e y
v y p i it d
.

ill t i 7 ou r n a l of E d u c a t i on
’
u s r a t on s a r e er s r e .
-
.
_
 M r E dw a r d Ar n ol d s L i st
’
. . 17

TR A VE L , S P OR T , A N D E X P L OR A TI ON .

B a l fou r —T WE LVE HUN DRE D MI LE S I N A WAGGON . A Na r

ra tiv e y i C p C l y h T v l d h Ch
of a J ou rn e d C mp
n a e o on t e ra n s aa an t e a r t e re o any s
'

By A I E B N HE B F UR W h ly f y ig l I l l
, ,

T i ie rr to r e s L C LA C AL O it n ea r or t or ina u st r a t i on s
h by h A h D my 8 l h
. .

f m Sk
ro e tc d M p
es S d d i t e 6
ut or , a n a a e c on e i t on e vo c ot 1 s

y —S p
.
. . .
, ,

A h mi g d f i gj
'
c ar m
n i r e c or o a ost n t e r e st n ou r n e . ec t a t or .

B e y n on —WI T H K E LLY TO CHI T RAL By L i e t e t W G L u n an . . .

B EYN N S ff O ffi l K lly i h h
.

O3 d G kh Rifl C l r R li f
oor a e s, ta cer to o on e e W t t e e e
W i h M p Pl d I ll D my 8
,

F or c e . t i S a d di i s, 7 6d
a n s, a n u st ra t o n s . e c on e t on . e vo .
, s . .

B u l l —THE CRUI SE OF THE AN T ARCT I C (S p . ee a r e

Col v i l e —THE LAN D OF THE N I LE S PRI N GS B y C ol o e l S i n r

H EN RY C ly B i i h C m m i i Wi h
.

K C M G C B O LV I L E Ug d rec e n t r t s o ss o n e r i n an a t
Ph g v F i pi 6 f l l p g I ll M p D my 8
. . . . .
, , , .

oto ra u re i
r oh d t s ece 6 ,
1 u a e u s tr a t on s a n 2 a s . e vo .
, 1 s .

f i hf l i i g b f dv h pp
‘
O f h m t d os t k a t h d i e n t e r ta n n e n tu r e t at
d y —N
ne o e u a n oo s o a as a e a re s nce
B
’
u r to n s i a l Ob
s . a t on a se r v e r .

Cu st a n c e —RI DI N G RE COLLE CT I ON S AND T URF S T ORI E S By

H E N R Y C U T AN E h D by
.

im wi
S f h C O l t w 8 re e t es nner o t e er ne vo c ro n v0
l h
, . .
,

c ot 6d ,
25 . .

Fr e sh fi e l d —E XPLORAT I ON OF THE CAUCAS US (S e p g ) . e a e I o .

Gor d on — PE RS I A RE VI S I T E D .
(S e e p a g e
Hol e —A LI TT LE T OUR 1N AME RI CA . By th e V e ry R e v s
EYN E h h
.

T h e M e m o ri e s of De a n H ol e
‘
R OL D S HOL De a n of R oc e st e r , Au t or of
h I ll y
,
‘
A B o ok a b ou t W it u st r a t i on s D e m 8 v o , 1 6s
’

R o se s , e tc . nu m e ro u s . . .

Hol e —A LI TT LE T OUR I N I RE LAN D .

(S ee p a g e s

Ma xw e l l —THE S P ORT S MAN S LI B RARY (S p g

’
. ee a e

P i k e —T HROUGH THE S UB ARCT I C FORE S T (S p g - . ee a e

P ol l o k — FI FT Y Y E ARS RE MI N I S CE N CE S OF I N DI A (S ee
’
.

Por t a l —THE B RI T I S H MI SS I ON TO UGAN DA By th e la te

ER RT E NN E R h
.

S ir G AL D P O AL , E d i te d b y R C M G LL OD D , W it an
I d R ig h H R M ER I ll
. . .

n tro u c t i on d f m
by h t e t on ou r a b le L or d C O u s t ra te ro

ph i g h E xp d H E D my 8
,

ko t os t a en dur n t e e i t i on b y C o l o n e l R O D S . e vo .
, 2 15 .

P or t al —MY MI S S I ON TO G E R ALD AB Y S S I N I A By t h e l a t e S i . r
H P RT
. C B
O Wi h M p AL , . . t a an d I ll i D my 8 5
u s t r a t on s. e vo .
, 1 5 .

S l a t i n —FI RE AND S WORD I N THE S UDAN (S p g . ee a é’

S mi t h —T HROUGH UN K N OWN AFRI CAN COUNT RI E S (S . ee

p ge a

S t on e — I N AND B E Y ON D THE HI MALAY AS .

(S ee p a g e
18 M r E dw a r d Ar n old L i st
’
. s .

AM E R I CAN S P OR T AN D TR A VE L .

T lze se b ook s se l e c t e d f r om t lze Ca t a l og u e of M S S S R A D M C N AL L Co , t h e we l l E R N Y

R RN
.
, .

le n ow n p u b l i s/i e r s of Ch i c a g o, h a v e be e n p l a c e d i n M R E D W A D A O L D S I za n d s u n d e r
’
.

fi re i mp r e ss i on t /i a t m a n y B r i t z sli T r a v e l l e r s a n d S p or t sm e n m a y fi n d t h e m u sef u l t ef a r e
st a r t i n
g on e xpe d i t i on s i n t /ze U n i t e d S t a t e s .

Al d r i c h —ARCT I C ALAS K A AND SI B E RI A ; o r, E igh t M on t h s

wi t h th e Ar c t i c W h a le m e n . By H ER B ER T L . AL D RI H C . Cr o w n 8 v o .
, c l ot h , 4s 6 d . .

AME RI CAN GAME FI S HE S . Th e i r H a b i t s, H a b i t a t , an d Pec u

l i a r i t i e s ; H o w, W h en , an d \V h e r e t o An g l e fo r t h em . By v a r i ou s W r i t e rs . Cl o t h ,

1 05 . 6d .

Hi g g i n s—NE W GUI DE TO THE P ACI FI C COAS T . Sa n ta Fé

R ou te . By C A H . . I GG I N S . C r o wn 8 v o .
,
c lot h , 45 . 6d .

Le fi i n g w e l l —THE ART OF WI N G S HOOT I N G A P ra c t i c a l

T r e a t i se o n the U se o f t h e S h o t -g u n By W B LE FFI N G W E L I W it h nu m e ro u s
I h
. . .

ll u s t ra t i on s . Cr o w n 8 v o , c l o t .
, 4 s 6d . .

S h i e l d s—CAM PI N G AND CAMP OUT FI T S . By G . O . SH I E LD S

C o n t a i n i n g a l so C a t e r s o n Ca m hp p M e d i c i n e , Co o k e r y and H ow tc
h h
,

L oa d a P a c k or se C r o wn 8 v o c l o t
.
55 .
, , .

i —
S h e l d s THE AME RI CAN B OOK OF THE DOG . By v a r ou s i
W r i t e rs . E di te d b y G . O S . H IE L DS C o qu i n a Cl o t h ,
1 55 .

T h om a s—S WE DE N AND THE S WE DE S By W I L L I AM W I D G E R T

w y Wi h
.

H M
T O A S J u n , U n i t e d S t a t e s M i n i st e r t o S we d e n an d N orm a t nu e r ou s

I h
.
, .

l l u s t ra t i on s Clo t , 1 6s . .

H I S T OR Y AN D B I OG R AP H Y .

a n d T a t h a m — ME N OF MI GHT
‘

B e n son S tu di e s of G re a t C h ar t

EN N
.

a c ters By A C B SO M A , an d H F W T AT A , M A H M Assi st a n t M a st e r
g h
. .
. . , . . . . . .
,

at E to n C o ll e e S e c on d E d i ti o n
. . Cr o w n 8 v o , . c l ot , 3 5 6d . .

B oy l e — THE RE COLLE CT I ON S OF THE DE AN OF SALI S B URY .

B y t h e V e ry R 13 0 Y L E De a n of S a l i sb u r y W it h Ph o t og r a v u re P or t ra i t
vs
v .
, . .

1 v ol , d e m y S
. .
, c o , 1 6s .

Ca w st on a n d K e a n e —THE E ARLY CHART E RE D COMPAN I E S .

(S ee p a g e
Fow l e r —E CHOE S OF OLD COUNT Y LI FE R e c ol l e c t on s i of S p or t
ER y
.
.

S oc i e t y
P o li t i c s a n d F a r m i n i n t h e G o o d O l d T i m e s g B y J K FOW L of A le s
y h I g pp
, , . . . ,

b ur S e c o n d E d i t i o n W i t n u m e r o u s l l u st r a t i o n s , 8 v o 1 05 6d Al so a la r e - a e
p y
. . .
,

e d i t i o n , o f 2 0 0 c o ie s o n l , 2 1 5 n et . .

‘
A v e ry e n t e r ta in in g vl o u me o f r e m i n i sc e n c e s , fu ll of g ood st o r i e s .
’
Tr u t h .
 M r E dw a r d Ar n old s L i st
'

20 . .

Pi l k i n g t on —I N AN E T ON P LAY I N G FI E LD T h e Ad e t s v n u re
ld P b li S h l B y i E M S P I KI NG T N
.

fo m so e o L d By E u F p c c oo o s n a st on on L O ca
h d m ly b d 6 d
. . . . . .

8 vo .
, an so e ou n , 2s . .

P u l i t z e r —THE ROMAN CE OF P RI N CE E UGE N E A I dyl l de n un i

B y A B ER T P U I T ER Wi h Ph
.

N p l a h Fo e on t m e g v i r st L L Z t nu e rou s oto ra u re
I ll Tw v l d my 8
. .

i
u st r a t o n s . o o s .
,
e vo .
, 2 15 .

Ra l e i g h —ROB E RT LOUI S S T E VE N SON By WALT E R R ALE I G H .

P f f E gl h L
r o e ss or m L iv p l U ivo i y C ll g S d d n is i t e ra t e a t er oo n e rs t o e e e c on e i t i on

l h
. ,

w 8
c ro n 6d vo .
,
c ot 25 . .

Ra n som e —THE B ATT LE S OF FRE DE RI CK THE GRE AT (S . e

p a ge
—
Roc h e for t ADVE N T URE S OF MY LI FE .
(S ee p ag e I .
)
—S T UDE N T AND S I N GE R
Sa n t l e y Th e . Rem i i sc e
n nces 0
H R E S
C A L N w E di i 8 l h 6S AN T L E Y . e t on , c ro w n vo c ot , 5 .

Sh e a
P — ALP HON S E DAUDE T B i og p h y a ra an d C itir cal St u dy
B y R H S H ER R f Th M m i fB M ‘
W it h I ll
’
E d A D, i to r o e e o rs o a r on e neva l e tc u st r a
D my 8
. . .
.

i t on s 5 . e vo .
, 1 5 .

‘
An e xc e
—
ll e n t p i e c e o f j ou r n a l i sm , t h e k in d of p e r so n a l j o u r n a l is m w ic h h i s b ot h en te r ta in i n
d fu l
’
an u se . S a t u r d a y R ev i ew .

Tol l e m a oh e —B E N J AMI N J OWE TT Ma st e r of B a l l i ol

I NE h
. .
‘
P e r so n a l M e m o i r B y th e H on L O L T OL L E M ACH E Au t or of S a fe S t u d i e s e tc

h hp h
. .
, ,

T i rd E d i t i on w i t , o r t r a i t c r ow n 8 v o c l ot , 35 6d , .
, . .

v y
A erk b re G mar a le s u c c e ss .
’
—S t y a m e s s .
'

a z ette .

T wi n i n g —RE COLLE CT I ON S OF LI FE AN D WORK Be i n

b i g p hy f L U I T W I N I NG h
.

h A t e u O
to l o ra o O SA . ne vo .
, 8v o c l ot , 1 5 s.

L I TE R A T U R E AN D B E L L E S L E T TRE S .

B e l l —DI AN A S LOOK I N G GLAS S a n d ot h e r P oe m s By t h

’
.
,
R C N N BE
ev D D R f Ch l A hm d H C O f C li l LL , e c t or o e te n a a n on a n on o ar s e
l h 5
. . .
, , .

C w 8 ro n vo c ot , 5 . ne t .

B el l — P OE MS OLD AND NE W B y th e R e C AN O N B E LL D D v .
,
.

Cl h 7 6 d
.

ot , 5 . .

B e l l —THE N AME AB OVE E VE RY N AME a n d ot h e r S e r m on s

C N N BE Cl h 5
,
By h R t D De ev . A O LL , . . ot , 5 .

B e l l —K LE I N E S HAUS THE ATE R Fi ft e e L i t t l e P l ys i G e m a n a n r i

Ch l d H U GH B E l h
.

f or By M i C w 8 re n . rs . LL . ro n vo .
,
c ot ,
25 .

M f h l i l pl y h v d p d f m h P i T h ea
‘ ’
h
’
o st o b t e se h tt e a s a e een a a te ro t e aut or s et t t re , t
f E g li h pl y ‘
rem da inf m li l
erb k by h
ro m w i i l d
a N tt e oo o n s a s t e sa e r te r en t t e u r se r
Co m e d i e s
’
.

Bu tleP ~
S E LE CT E S SAY S OF S AI NT E B E UVE Ch i e fly be i ar n
h U T L ER
.

‘
on E n
g lis L i t e ra t u re T ra n sl a t e d b y A J B T r a n sl a t or of T h e M e m oi rs c

h
. . .
,

B a ro n M a rb ot
’
On e . v ol , 8 v o , c l o t
.
55 .
, . n et .
 M r E dw a r d A r n old L i st
’
. s . 21

Col l i n g w ood —T HORS T E I N OF THE ME RE a Sa g a of th e No r th

men in La k e l a n d By W G CO L L I NGW OO D , Au t h or o f L i fe of J oh n R u sk i n ,
’
e tc .
hI
. . .

W it ll u st ra t i o n s . P ri c e 105 . 6d .

Col li n g w oocl —THE B ON DWOMAN .

(S ee p a g e
Coll i n s—A T RE AS URY OF MI N OR B RI T I S H P OE T RY .
( p
S ee .

Cook —THE DE FE N SE OF P OE S Y , h e r w i se k n ow n ot as An
AP OLOG Y FOR P OE TR Y B y S ir P HI I S I N EY E d
L P d by A S C K D i te OO P ro
h Li U iv i y l h 4
. . .
.
,

fe sso r of E n g lis te ra t u r e i n Ya le n C w 8 e rs t 6d . ro n vo .
, c ot , s . .

Cook —A DE FE N CE OF P OE T RY . By PE R CY B YS S H E S HE LL E Y
h K C w h
.

E d it e d , wi t n o te s a n d i n t ro d u c t i o n , b y P ro fe sso r A S . . CO O . ro n 8vo .
, c lot ,

25 .6d

Da v i d son —A HAN DB OOK TO DAN T E . By G I O VA N N I A S CAR

I h by TH M I N
.

T AZ Z I N I T ra n sl a t e d fro m t h e t a l ia n wi t n o te s a n d a d d i t i on s, O AS D AV DSO
h
.
, ,

M A . . C ro wn 8 y o c l ot , 6 5 .
,
.

E l l a c om b e —THE PLAN T - LORE AND GARDE N - CRAFT OF

S H AKE S P E ARE .
(S ee p a g e

Fl e m i n g —THE ART OF RE ADI N G AND S PE AK I N G . By th e

Re v Ca n o n F L E M I NG V icar of St M ic h a e l s,
'

C h e st e r S qu a re S e c on d e d i t io n
h
. . .
.
,

Cl o t ,35 6d . .

—S E LE CT I ON S I N E N GLI S H P ROS E FROM E LI Z AB E T H

Ga r n e t t
TO V I CTORI A Ch d b y J M E M G R N E TT M A L L D
pg 7 gg 7 o se n u a rra e A S A 00
pg l g w 8
.
.
, . .
, . .

a e s, ar e c ro n vo . , c o 5 .

Gosc h e n —THE CULT I VAT I ON AND USE OF I MAGI N AT I ON

B y h R i gh H G E RGE J HIM G HEN C w 8 l h
.

t e t6d on . O O AC OS C . ro n vo .
, c ot , 25 . .

GRE AT P UB LI C S CHOOLS .
(S ee p a g e

Gu m m e P e — OLD E N GLI S H B ALLADS . S e le c te d an d E di te d by

R N I
F A C S B G U M M E RE P r o fe ssor of E n g l i sh i n Ha v e r fo r d Co ll e g e U S A Cr o w n
h
. . .
.
, ,

8 v o , c l o t , 5 s 6d
. . .

Ha r r i son —S T UDI E S I N E ARLY VI CT ORI AN LI T E RAT URE . By

F RE ERI
RRI N M A A h
D C HA SO u t or of
‘
The C h o ic e of B oo k s ,
’
e tc De m y 8vo
h
.
, . .
,

c lo t
6d , 105 . .

L h hi i h i b
t u s sa y a t o n c e t a t t a rm ng o ok On e la y s it d ow n n ot on
— h
l y d e l ig t e d b y i t s l it e r a r y
h i i k ff
e s s a c .

i h
l l e n c e , u t w t so m e t
b fo r the w h o wr ot e S p e c t a t or
e xc e n g l e a e c t i on p e r so n i t. .

Ha r t sh or n e —OLD E N GLI S H GLASS E S .

(S ee pa g e
Hol e ADDRE S SE S TO WORK I N G ME N FROM P ULP I T AND
P LATFOR M B y th e .
V yR er ev . S . R EYN OL DS H OL E ,
De a n of R oc h e st e r . One v ol .
,

c r o wn 8 v o , 6 5
—S
. .

'

A b ook of g re a t i n t e r e st a nd g re a t e xc e l le n c e . c ot s m a n .

Hu d so n —THE LI FE ART AND CHARACT E RS OF S HAK E

B y H EN R Y N H U N LL D , ,

S P E ARE DS O E d i t or of T /ze H a r v a r d S /za /ee sp e a r e

969 p g w v l h
. . ,
. .
, ,

e tc . i l g a w 8 e s, n t o o s .
, ar e c ro n v o. , c lot , 2 15 .
 M r E d w a r d A r n old s L i st
’ ‘

22 . .

Hu d son THE HARVARD E DI T I ON OF S HAK E S PE ARE S

’

CO M P L E T E W OR K S A fi n e L i b ra r y E d i t i o n EN R Y U DS O N
.

By H N H
h h h p yv
. .
. ,

L L D , Au t o r o f T h e L i fe , Ar t a n d C a r a c t e r s o f S a k e s
‘ ’
ea re I n t we n t ol u m e s,
h v
. .
.
,

l a rg e c r o w n 8 y o , c l o t , £6 A lso i n t e n o l u m e s , £5
. . .

Hu n t — Le i g h Hu n t WHAT T RY ?
‘
An An sw e r
’
I S P OE
’
s to th e
Q u e st i o n W h a t i s P oe t r i n c l u d in y gR e m a rk s Ve r 5 1fi c a t i o n
on By L EI GH HU T N
h K h
. .
,

E d i t e d , Wi t n o t e s, b y P r o fe ssor A S . . CO O . C ro w n 8 v o , c l o t .
, 2 s 6d . .

La n g —LAMB S ADVE N T URE S OF ULY S S E S W ith I

’
. an n tro
d u c t i on b y A D N R E W L A NG . S qu a r e 8 y o .
, c l ot h , 15 . 6d . Al so t h e P r i z e E d i t i o n , g il t
e d g e s, 2 5 .

Ma u d —WAGN E R S ’
HE ROE S an d WAGN E R S HE ROI N E S
’
.
(S ee
p age

Mor r i so n — LI FE S
‘ ’
PRE S CRI PT I ON , In Se ve n Dose s . By D .

RE N M RRI N C w
M AC L A O SO . ro n 8vo .
,
p hm a rc en t , I S . 6d .

P e a r son —THE CHAN CE S OF DE AT H .

(S e e p a g e
Rod d — FE DA an d ot h e r P oe m s, c hie fly Ly r i c a l . B y RE N N E LL
h h h
.

RODD , C M G . . . W it e tc ed Fr on t i s i e c e p . Cr o w n 8 v o c l ot ,
65 .

Ro d d —THE UN K N OWN MADON N A, and ot he r P oe m s By

E NN E R Wi h F I HM N h
.

R C M O LL ODD , . . . t ron p
tis i e c e by R C O D . Cr o w n 8 v o . , c l ot , 55 .

—
Ro d d THE VI OLE T CROW N , AND S ON GS OF E N GLAN D By
R E NN E W h Ph v h
.

R C M G LL ODD , . . . i t o t o g ra u re Fron t i s i e c e p . Cr o w n 8 v o c lo t . 5

—
Rodd THE CUS T OMS AND LORE OF MODE RN GRE E CE By
E NN E h 7 f ll p I ll h
.

R LL R OD D , C M G . . . Wit u -
a ge u s t ra t i o n s . 8vo .
, c l ot , 8s 6d . .

h
Sc e l l i n —
g A B OOK OF E LI Z AB E T HAN LY RI CS S e le c t d a d e n
S HE I NG P f f E gli h L U iv i y
.

E di d b y F E
te i h C f LL r o e sso r o n s i te ra tu r e n t e n e rs t o
yl v l h 5
. .
,

P en ns C w 8 an ia 6d . ro n v o. , c ot ,
5 . .

Sc h e ll i n g — B E N J ONSON S T I MB E R E d i t e d b y P o fe ssor F E
’
r
'

S HE I NG C w 8 l h 4
. . .

C LL . ro n vo c ot ,
5 .

l h
S c e l — THE S T ORY OF TWO S ALON S M d m e de Be u m o t a a a n
B y E IT H S I H E A h hi g J i W i h I ll
.

f W ‘
and h S t d e uar s D C L, u t or o or t n t on u n or ,
’
t us
l h
.

i
t ra t o n s L g w 8 6d
ar e c ro n vo c ot 1 05

k i d d —
. .
, , . .

Av
’
e ry d b g oo S d i
oo n ee . a tu r ay R ev ew .

T h a y e r —THE B E S T E LI Z AB E T HAN P LAY S E di t e d w th i an

I I I M R T H AY ER h
.
,
n t rod u c t i on , by W LL A . . 612 p a g e s, la rg e c r o wn 8vo .
, c l ot , 75 . 6d .

WI N CHE S T E R COLLE GE . I l l u st r a t e d by HE R B E RT M AR S H AL L
h V Y KE H M I T y h
.

Wit Co n t r i b u t i o n s i n P r o s e an d b y OL D e r se W A S S D e m 4 t o , c l ot
p fi pi
. .
,

255 . net A fe w c o i es o f t h e
. r s t e d i t i on , li m i t e d t o co e s, a r e st i l l t o b e h a d .
 M r E d wa r d A r n ol d L i st
’
24 . s .

F I C TI ON — C o ti n n ue d .

T HAT FI DDLE R FE LLOW : A T a l e o f St An dr e ws B y H O R AC E

G H U TCH I N S O N A t h
. .

M y W if ‘ ‘
’
of
’ ’
P liti u or e s o c s, G o l f, Cr e a t u re s of C i rc u m
h
.
,

Cr o w n 8 v o c lo t
’
st a n c e , e tc . .
, , 25 . 6d .

T W O S H I LL I N G S .

GE ORGE S MOT HE R
’
. B y S TE PH E N C R AN E .
(S e e p a g e I 4 .
)

CO UN T R Y H O US E —P AS TI M E S .

E l l a c om b e — I N A GLOUCE S T E RS HI RE GARDE th e Re v N By
V y h
. .

H N E L L A CO M B E i c a r o f B i t t on , a n d H o n o r a r Ca n o n o f B r i s t o l Au t o r o f
h p h
.
.
, .

P la n t L o r e a n d G a r d e n Cr a ft o f S a k e s e a r e W i t n e w i l l u st r a t i o n s b y M a j o r
’

I KE TT h
.

E B R C . . S . S e c o n d E d i t io n . Cr o w n 8 v o .
, c lot , 6s .

—
Hol e A B OOK AB OUT THE GARDE N AND THE GARDE N E R
By h V y R EYN E h
.

t e er ev . S . R OL D S H OL ,
Dea n of R oc e st e r . S e c on d e d i t i on . Cr o w n
8 vo .
, 65 .

Hol e —A B OOK AB OUT ROS E S .

( p
S ee ag e

B r ow n —PLE AS URAB LE P OULT RY- K E E P I NG By E B R OW N

y h
. .
,
Fu l l i l l u st r a t e d On e v ol .
, c r o wn 8vo .
, c lot , 25 . 6d .

M r B r ow n h a s e st a b l is h df h i m se l f a u n i q u e p os i t i on i n r e g a r d t o t h i s su bj e c t , a n d w a t e a s h h h
y v y
. e or
t o sa y is n ot on l s ou n d c ou n se l , b u t i s p r e se n t e d i n a er re a d a b le for m -
N ot t zn g lz a m D a zly
.

Gu a r di a n .

B r ow n — P OULT RY- K E E PI N G AS AN I N DUS T RY FOR FARME RS

AND D WA R R WN y ill y
TE SS
O T 'E RS ' By E D B O . Fu l l u st r a t e d . S e c on d e d i t ion . De m
4t o .
,
c o

Br o w n —I N DUS T RI AL P OULT RY K E E PI N G B y E D W AR D B R O W N -
.

I ll A m ll h h fl y i d d f tt g
.

d P p b d
u s t ra db k te d a er oa r s, 15 s a an oo c ie n te n e or c o a e rs a n
h ld
. .

ll m
a ot en t- o e rs .

B r ow n —P OULT RY FATT E N I N G By E B R OW N E L S F l ly . .
, . . . u
N e w E d i t i on C r o wn 8 v o 6d

W e P LE AS URAB LE B E E —
i l l u st r a t e d . . .
, 15 . .

h i t — K E E PI N G By C N W H I T L e t e . . . E
'

C ur r
h
to t C y C i l f H i gd C m b i d g h i
e ou n t F ll y i l l d ou n c s o unt n on a r es re e tc u
,
u st r a t e
l h
, , . .

O l w 8
ne vo 6d .
, c ro n vo .
, c ot ,
2s . .

—
Goss p THE CHE SS P OCK E T MAN UAL
i By G H D G OS S I P .

A P k G i d wi h d I ll
. . . .

ocm S p im eG mt i u S m ll 8 e , 6d t nu e rou s ec en a es a n u st r a t on s . a v o. 25 . .

—
Cu n n i n g h a m THE DRAUGHT S P OCK E T MAN UAL B y J G
C U NN I NGH M A I h S m l l 8 wi h
. . .

d i h G m i ll i b A n n tr o u c t on to t e a e n a ts ra n c e s. a vo t
di g m
. .
,

m
n u 6de ro u s a ra s, 2 s . .

K e n n e y He r b e r t COMMON SE N S E COOK E RY : b e d
- as on
M d E gl h
o d C e rn l P i pl W k d i n D il By C l
is l an on t i n e n ta r nci e s, or e ou t n e ta o on e
A K E NN E Y H ER B ER T v 5 p p 7 6d
.

. L g w 8 - ar e c ro n vo .
, o er 00 .
, 5 . .

K e n n e y He r b e r t FI FT Y B RE AK FAS T S o t i i g ge t c n a n n a r a
v i y f N w d S im p l R i p f B k f D h
ar et o By C l e l K E NN E Y
an e ec es or re a a st is es o on e
H ER B ER T
.

\Vy S m ll 8 6d v e rn a vo .
, 2s . .
 M r E dw a r d Ar n ol d s L i st
’
. . 25

K e n n e y He r b e r t FI FT Y DI NN E RS By C ol on e l K E N N E Y .

H ER B ER T S m ll 8 l h 6d . a vo .
, c ot ,
25 . .

K e n n e y He r b e r t FI FT Y LUN CHE S By C ol on e l K E N N E Y
H ER B ER T l h
.

S m ll 8 6d (S p g. a vo .
, c ot , 25 . . ee a e

S h or l a n d — CY CLI N G FOR HE ALT H AND PLE AS URE By L

H P R T ER A h f Wh l d Wh
.

R vi d
.

d di d by F W
‘ ’
O li g u t or o ee s an ee n e tc e se an e te
Ch m pi Wi h I ll
.
, , . . .

S H O RL A Am 8 9 93 9 4
N D, m i m ll a te u r a on 1 2- -
. t nu e r ou s u s t ra t on s, s a
8vo .
, 25 . 6d .

S CI E N CE , P H I L OS OP H Y , E T C .

Bryan —THE MARK I N E UROP E AND AME RI CA A Rev iew

y N H RY N
.

of th e D i sc u ss i o n on E a rl La n d T e n u re B y E OC A B A AM P r e si d e n t
V v y I h
. .
.
, . ,

of inc en n es U n i e r si t , n d ia n a Cr o w n 8 v o , c l o t , 45 6 d
. . . .

B u r g e ss— POLI T I CAL S CI E N CE AND COMP ARAT I VE CON S T I

T U T I O N A L L AW B y J O H N W B U R G E S S P h D L L D D e a n o f t h e U n i v e r si t y
y v y
. .
, . .
, . .
,

Fa c u l t o f P o l i t i c a l S c i e n c e i n Co l u m b i a C o ll e g e , U S A I n t wo ol u m e s Dem
h
. . . .

8 y o , c lo t , 2 5 5
. .

Fa w c e t t —THE RI DDLE OF THE UN I VE RS E B e g Att e m p t in an

phy I q iyi h
.

to d e te r m i n e th e F i r st P r i n c i l e s o f M e t a p
si c s c on si d e r e d as an n u r n to t e
C on d i t i o n s a n d I p m or t o f C o n sc i ou sn e ss B y E DWA D DO R U G A F AW E TT O
L S C ne

y8
. .

v ol .
, de m v o. ,
1 4s .

Ho p k i n s—THE RE LI GI ON S OF I N DI A (S e e p a g e .

La d d —LOTZ E S P HI LOSOP HI CAL OUT LI N E S Di c t a t e d io

’
. P or t n s
of L a t e st L e c t u r e s (a t G ot t i n g e n a n d B e r l i n ) o f H e r m a n n L o t z e
th e T r a n sl a t e d
E RGE h p hy
.

a n d e d i te d b y G O T L A D D P r o fe ssor o f P i l o so i n Ya l e Co l l e g e Ab o u t
p hv h h I p hy
. .
,

1 80 a ges in e a c ol u m e Cr o w n 8 v o , c l o t 45 e a c V ol M e ta si c s Vol
II h p hy h p hy y h gy
. .
, . . . . . .

P i l o so o f R e l ig i o n V o l I I I P r a c t i c a l P i l oso V ol I V P s c ol o
VI
. . . . . . .

V o l V Ai s t h e t i c s
. Vo l
. L og i c . . . .

THE J OURN AL OF MORP HOLOGY di t d by C O W H I T M A N . E e . .

f B i l gy i i y U S A Th
,

P fr o e sso r Cl k U i v o mb i
o o vl m f n ar n e rs t re e nu e rs n a o u e o
p g wi h m pl
.
, . .

1 00 5 l g 4 to 1 0 Si gl
ar mb 7e 6d b to a e s, t nu e r ou s a te s n e nu e r s, 1 5 su
ip i h v l m f h Vl m I X
. . .

sc r t on t o tmb 45 e wb b i
o ud e o t re e n u e r s, 5 o u es to c an n o e o ta ne
d h fi f V l m XI i dy
. . .
,

an mb t e r st n u er o o u e . s re a .

Mo r g a n —AN I MAL LI FE AND I N T E LLI GE N CE By P ofe o . r ss r

C L Y M RG N LO P i ip lD f U iv i y C ll g
O B i l W h 4 A r nc a o n e rs t o e e r st o i t 0
Ill Ph h d F i pi D my 8
.
, , .

d
u st r a t i o n s S d E d i
an a o t o -e t c e r on t s ece. e c on i t on . e vo .
,

0 10 t h , 1 65 .

Mo r g a n —HAB I T AND I N S T I N CT (S ee pa g e
—
.

Mo r g a nTHE S PRI N GS OF CON DUCT By P . r o fe sso r C LLOY D .

RG N
MO h p A F G S C ea er E d i t ion La rg e c ro w n 8v o 3s 6 d

Mo g an —
. . . .
, . . .
,

r P S Y CHOLOGY FOR T E ACHE RS By P f

r o e sso r C LL OYD
IT H
.

R N h
.

M O GA F G S Wit P r e fa c e b y a
J G F C M A LL D la te on e of H M
h I p g h
, . . . . , . .
, . .
. . .

C i e f n s e c t o rs o f T r a i n i n g Co l l e e s One v ol c r o wn 8vo c l ot
3s 6 d ne t

Y o u n g —A
.
. .
, , , . . .

GE N E RAL AS T RON OMY . By C HA L R E S A . YO U N G ,

P r o fe s so r o f As t r o n o m i n t h e C o l l e g e o f N e w J e r se y y A sso c ra t e o f t h e Ro y a l As t r o
y h pg h I
,

n o m i c a l S o c ie t Au t o r o f T /z e S u n e t c I n on e v o l 55 0 a e s, wi t 2 50 ll u s t ra
pp h y R y l 8 h
, ,
. .
,

t io n s a nd su . l e m e n t e d wi t t h e n e c e ssa r t a b le s . o a vo .
,
a ll m o ro c c o ,

125 6d . .
26 M r E d w a r d A r n ol d L i st
’
. s .

I L L US TR A T E D G I F T B OOK S , E T C .

Fo r fu r t h e r p a r t ic u la r s of b oo k s u n d e r t h is h e a d i n g se e s p e c ia
.

C a t a lo g u e of G ift B ooks fo r P r e se n t s an d P r iz e s .

WI N CHE S T E R by H E R B E R T M AR S H AL L COLLE GE . I ll u st r a t e d .

Wi h C ib t i P d V on t r Y KE H I T D m y 4 l h
u t i on s n r ose a n e r se b y O L D W AM S S e to c ot
f h fi pi
. .
,

52 Af w
5 .
pI ne d i
t . li m i d e i ll b h d
CO es o t e r st e i t on , te to co e s, a r e st to e a .

GRE AT P UB LI C S CHOOLS E TO N H A R OW W I N CH E ST E R R
RUGBY W E T M I N T ER M R B R U GH C H E T E NH A M H AI E Y B U R Y
.

S S A L
C I F T N —C H R T ER H U E
O O L L
L Wi h
O ly H d d I ll i A by h b i O S t n ear a un re u s t r a t on s t e e st a r t st s
Ch p l l g i m p i l 6m h d m ly b d 3 6d
. .

di ea O er e ti on . ne vo .
, ar e er a 1 o .
, an so e ou n , 5 . .

A LI TT LE T OUR I N I RE LAN D B y AN O X O N I AN (t h e V e y R e . r v .

S R H E D f R h ) Wi h OL ly f y I ll i b y J HN L EE H
ea n o oc e st e r t n ea r or t u st r a t on s O C
l di g h Cl d d g h l l g
. . .
,
’
i nc u f m l F i pi
n f h t e Oa w
ou s st e e r on t s ec e o t e a a . ne vo .
, ar e c ro
8v o .
,
6s .

WI LD FLOWE RS I N ART AND N AT URE By J c . L sp i n e le s s

.

g h hK
. .

P rin c i p al of th e N a t i on a l Ar t T r a i n i n S c o o l S ou t e n si n g t o n and F W B UR
v y h
. , . .

B I D GE Cu r a t or of t h e U n i e r si t B o ta n ic a l G a rd e n s Du b li n W it 21 F u l l -p a g
N y h y g
, , .

C ol o u re d P l a t e s b y H G M OO . R o a l 4t o ,
. a n d so m e l b ou n d , g il t
. . ed e s, 2 1 5 .

B O OK S F OR T H E Y O UN G .

S N OW S HOE S AND S LE DGE S By K IRK M U N ROE . F u ll y i ll u s

h
.

tra te d . Cr o w n 8 v o .
,
c lot , 55 .

RI CK DALE . By K I RK M U N ROE . F u ll
y i l l u st ra te d . C r own 8 VO .

c lot h , 55 .

E RI C THE ARCHE R By M AU I CE H H E R V E Y W i t h u m e o R . . n r u
I ll m ly b
.

fu ll - p age u st ra t i o n s . H d an d w 8so 5 e ou n , c ro n vo .
,
5 .

THE FUR S E AL S
’
T OOT H By K I R K M U N R O E F ll y i l l st t e d
.
. u u ra
Cr own 8 v o .
, c lot h , 5s .

HOW DI CK AND M OLLY WE N T ROUN D THE WORLD . B

M R N W L E GH W h m
. H CO . I ll F p 4 l h 55
AL L . i t nu e r ou s u st ra t i on s. ca . to .
, c ot , .

HOW DI CK AND M OLLY S AW E N GLAN D B y M H C O R N W AL . . .

L E GH Wi h m I ll . F l p4 5 t nu e rou s u st ra t i on s . o o sc a to .
, 5 .

DR GI LB E RT S DAUGHT E RS B y M AR GAR T H AR R I E M AT H E W S
’
E T
I ll d b y C H RI l h 5
.

H MM N
.

u st r a t e C w 8 S . A O D . ro n v o. ,
c ot , 5 .

THE RE E F OF GOLD By M AU R I CE H H E VE Y W i t h m e ou nu r

f ll—
. R .

p g I ll h d m l y b d G il d g 5
.

u a e u st r a t i o n s , an so e ou n . t e es, 5 .

B ARE ROCK ; T h e I l d of P e l B y H E N R Y N AS H W i t o r, s an ar s . .

mnu I ll i b y L AN E T S EE
e r ou s L g w 8 h d m ly b
u st r a t o n s C LO P D ar e c ro n v o. an so e ou n

g l dg 5
. ,

i t e e s, 5 .
 E dw a r d Ar n old s L i st
’

28 Mr . .

PI CT URE S OF BRI T I S H WI LD AN I MALS . For D e c o a t io r n an d

O b j e c t L e sso n s A i ly w nd b tif l S i
e n t re f ne an ea u u er es o P i c tu re s i n W a te r -
Co l o u r s
p yp W I I A M F T ER
.
,

s ec ia ll a in te d by M r. LL OS .

T h f l l wi g i l t f th S i e o o n s a is o e er es

1 . Ha r e . 7 . De e r .

2 . Ra b b i t W e a se l . . 8 . S n a k e a n d M ol e .

3 . Ra t M ou se
. B at . . 9 . B ees .

4 . He d g e h og S n a i l S l u g . . . S p 1a e r . W or m . 10 . W a t e r -r a t Fr og . . T oa d . Ne wt .

5 . Ot t e r . 11 . S qu i r r e l .

6 . Dor m ou se a n d Ad d e r . 12 . F ox .

T h e si z e of e a c h pl a te is a b ou t 15 ; 3 by 10 5 in c h es T h e l a t e s a re su p
l i e d si n l a t t h e pp gy
gp h g h
.

fol l o w i n ri c e s U n m ou n t e d , 9 d m ou n te d on b o a r d s , W i t m e t a l e d e s, I sé b y 2 1 i n c e s ,
g
. .

I S 6d. net . .
, fr a m e d a n d m ou n t e d (u n l a z e d ) , 3 5 . net .

P I CT URE S OF B RI T I S H FI S HE S . D e c o t i o a d O bj e t
F or ra n n c
L e sson s T hi
i s a n e n tire l n e w a n d e r b e a u t
s y v y if l i d ig
u d by M CH R E
se r e s , es ne r A L S
H Y M ER x i di l ig p
. .

W P t h e we l l k n o w n a r t i st G re a t c a re -
h b as een e e r c se n se e c t n re re

yp h iv f h B i i h I l
, .

se n t a t i v e t e s o f t h e fi sh t a t a r e fo u n d i n t h e r de rs a n d se a s o t e r t s s e s, a n

fi y v
i t i s c o n d e n t l b e l i e e d t a t su c a c c u r a t e a n h h d f i h f l pi
a t f h m h vu v c tu re s o t e a e ne er

h h xh
i t e r to b e e n e i b ite d .

T h e fol l o wi n gi s a l i st of t h e S e r ie s
1 He r r i n g
. . Sp r at . 4 . P l a i c e Lob st e r . Cr a b . 6 . Pik e .
St i c k l eb a c k . M i n n ow .

2 God
. . 5 . S a l m on T r ou t .
. 7 . E el s .

3 H a d d oc k
. . M ack er el . 8 B ream . Pe r c h . Roa c h .

T h e si z e o f e a c hp
l a t e i s a b ou t 1 5 % i n c e s b y 1 0 55 T h e l a t e s a r e su h p pp l i e d si n gl y a t th e
p h
.

fo l l o w m g r i c e s : u n m o u n t e d , 9 d n e t ; m o u n t e d o n b o a r d s wi t m e ta l e d g e s, a b ou t 1 55
h g
.

b y 2 1 i n c e s, I S 6 d n e t ; fr a m e d a n d m o u n t e d (u n l a z e d ) 3 5 n e t
. .
, . .

PI CT URE S OF B I RDS . For t h e D e c o a tio r n of H om e an d S c h ool s .

Li st of C ol o u re d P l a t e s :
B l u e Ti t . Bu ll fin ch . Sk y l a r k . Wa t e r wa g t a i l .

Th r u sh .
S w a l l ow . Bl a ck b ir d . St a r l i n g .

Ch a ffin c h . Y e l l ow h a m m e r . S p a r r ow . R ob i n .

T h e P i c t u r e s c a n b e su l i e d i n t h e fo ll o w i n st l e s pp
U n m ou n t e d , 6d p e r P l a t e Se t of g y
v p g h
.

1 2 in e n e lo e 65 M o u n t e d , S i n l e P l a t e s m o u n t e d o n b o a r d s , 1 2 b y 1 5 i n c e s , e ye
h h h
, .
, ,

l e t t e d a n d st r u n g , I S e a c S e t s o f 3 P l a t e s m ou n t e d t og e t e r o n b o a r d s 34 b y 1 5 i n c e s
y g h h
.
, ,

e e l e t t e d a n d st r u n 2 s 6d e a c F ra m e d S i n g l e P l a t e s , m ou n t e d a n d fra m e d , 2 5 e a c
h h
.
, . . , .

S e t s o f 3 P l a t e s, m o u n t e d a n d fr a m e d t og e t e r , 45 6 d e a c . . .

A l l th e a éov e p r i c es a r e n e t.

WI LD FLOWE R P I CT URE S For t h e De c o at o r i n of H om e an d

h y yl
.

Sc oo l T w e n t y -o n e B e a u t i fu l l -
c o l o u re d P l a t e s , i ssu e d i n t h e sa m e s t e an d a t th e
p
.

’
sa me r ic e s a s t h e B i rd s .

Hon e y su c k l e .

For g e t m e N ot - -

v lv
.

Con u lu s o .

Ha w t h or n .

Ly c h n i s .

Ha r e b e l l .

Da i sy .
 M r E d w a r d A r n ol d s L i st
'

. . 29

TH E I N TE RN A TI ON A L E D UCA TI ON S E R I E S .

THE T
I N E LL E C UAL AN D M OR AL DE VE LOP M E N T OF T TH E CH I L D By
A R EL C
.

G B I A M P AY R E
TH E LAN GUAGE ARTS Sp h R d i g C m p i ti By B A
.

eec ea n o os on
HIN A LE P h D U iv fM h
.
, , . . .

SD i d n e rs ty o ic i gan 45 6
TH E P S Y CH OL OG Y OF TH E N UM B E R AN D I TS AP P LI CATI ON TO M E TH ODS
.
, . . .

OF TE ACH I N G AR I THM E T I C B J A M L ELL A N A M N DE E

,

d J P D 6 y AM E S C an OH W Y, n 5

By S U N E B W
.

S ON G S AN D M US I C OF F R OE B E L S M OTHE R P LAY
. . .
, , . . .

’
. SA . LO .

THE M OTTOE S AN D COM M E NTARI E S OF F R OE B E L S M OTHE R P LAY

S

By
AN E B L d H R E L
.

S US OW a n I OT 6s
H OW TO S TUDY AN D TE ACH H I ST OR Y By B A H I N A E P h D L L D
. . . . .

. . SD L , . .
, . .

FR OE B E L S P E DAG OGI CS OF TH E K I N DE R GARTE N ; Hi I d

’
i g or , s e a s c on c e r n n
th Pl y
e d Pl y h i g a f th Ch i l dan T l d b J J AR a C t l h n s o e ra n s a te y VI S r ow n 8y o C ot 65
TH E E DU CATI ON OF TH E G R E E K P E OP L E AN D I TS I N F LUE N CE ON CI VI LI Z A
. . . .
, , .

T I ON A DA l h 6
,

B T N C y8 HOM S VI DS O r ow n v o. c ot 5

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P E R I OD I CA L S .

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