Short Guide For Essential Gun Care
Short Guide For Essential Gun Care
Short Guide For Essential Gun Care
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
DISCLAIMER .......................................................................................................................... 6
2. SGL-21 .................................................................................................................................. 9
7. Glock 19 ............................................................................................................................. 14
M1 Carbine ............................................................................................................................ 16
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.22LR ...................................................................................................................................... 23
12-gauge ................................................................................................................................ 24
9mm ....................................................................................................................................... 25
.308 ........................................................................................................................................ 26
Gun Parts to Hoard to Keep Your Gun in Service for Life ......................................................... 28
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Children can find almost anything or do anything when they put their mind to it. ............. 45
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DISCLAIMER
THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN “SHORT GUIDE FOR ESSENTIAL GUN CARE” IS MEANT TO
SERVE AS A COMPREHENSIVE COLLECTION OF TIME-TESTED AND PROVEN STRATEGIES THAT
THE AUTHORS OF THIS COURSE LEARN OVER THE YEARS. SUMMARIES, STRATEGIES, TIPS AND
TRICKS ARE ONLY RECOMMENDATIONS BY THE AUTHORS, AND READING THIS EBOOK DOES
NOT GUARANTEE THAT ONE’S RESULTS WILL EXACTLY MIRROR OUR OWN RESULTS. THE
AUTHOR OF “SHORT GUIDE FOR GUN CARE” HAS MADE ALL REASONABLE EFFORTS TO
PROVIDE CURRENT AND ACCURATE INFORMATION FOR THE READERS OF THIS COURSE. THE
AUTHOR WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY UNINTENTIONAL ERRORS OR OMISSIONS THAT
MAY BE FOUND.
THE MATERIAL IN “SHORT GUIDE FOR ESSENTIAL GUN CARE” MAY INCLUDE INFORMATION,
PRODUCTS, OR SERVICES BY THIRD PARTIES. THIRD PARTY MATERIALS COMPRISE OF THE
PRODUCTS AND OPINIONS EXPRESSED BY THEIR OWNERS. AS SUCH, THE AUTHORS OF THIS
GUIDE DO NOT ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY OR LIABILITY FOR ANY THIRD PARTY MATERIAL OR
OPINIONS.THE PUBLICATION OF SUCH THIRD PARTY MATERIALS DOES NOT CONSTITUTE THE
AUTHORS’ GUARANTEE OF ANY INFORMATION, INSTRUCTION, OPINION, PRODUCTS OR
SERVICE CONTAINED WITHIN THE THIRD PARTY MATERIAL.
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On the other hand, it is not practical for the average consumer to spend thousands of dollars on
relatively untested weapons when other good weapons and ammo are available. Nor does it
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make much sense to buy newer, more expensive, untested models of older style weapons just
because they have a few minor changes to relatively cosmetic features.
We choose 7 firearms for the best survival defense kit, and we’ll start with a few words about
their costs and maintenance.
So let’s see the 7 weapons which we consider that should be included in every survival defense
kit.
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1. Alpha / Echo
Our Opinion: This is a well-built AR-15 that will give you years of good service, is built to GI
specs, and any AR-15 part kit may be used to repair. Not recommended for large game hunting,
but can be used for small game, and is also excellent for house defense.
2. SGL-21
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Description/Features:
Caliber: 7.62×39
Barrel: 16.3“
Capacity: 10/20/30 round magazines, plus drums available
Wt: 7 Lbs.
Stock: Polymer
Ammo Type: 7.62×39 mm
Projected Availability: Good. Plentiful surplus and new manufactured ammo available.
Maintenance Type: Regular rifle cleaning.
Required Accessories: None.
Configuration Options: Folding stock or straight stock.
Suitable for Youths? Suitable for 12 years old and up.
Suitable for Elderly? Yes, low recoil, easy pointing, well balanced.
Suitable Handicapped or Disabled? Depends on condition and how it will change over
time.
Our Opinion: This AK-47 is very rugged, well-built, and very dependable. It will give you years of
service and low maintenance. May be used for small deer sized animals, but too large for small
game. Excellent for house defense.
3. Stoeger 3000
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Our Opinion: This is an easy to use and a dependable shotgun that will give you years good of
service. Good for all small game and hunting deer sized animals. This is excellent for house
defense.
4. Remington 870
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Our Opinion: This is an easy to use and a dependable shotgun that will give you years of good
service. Good for hunting deer sized animals and small game. Excellent for house defense.
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Suitable for Elderly? Yes/questionable. Easy pointing and sighting. Light to moderate
recoil. Loud noise!
Suitable Handicapped or Disabled? Depends on condition and how it will change over
time.
Our Opinion: This is a well-built bolt action rifle that will give you years of dependable service
with minimal repairs. Excellent for small and large game except bears. Excellent for house
defense.
6. Ruger 10-22
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Suitable Handicapped or Disabled? Depends on condition and how it will change over
time.
Our Opinion: The 10-22 rifle is a time tested and true rifle. It will give you years of service
without repairs. The Ruger 10 – 22 has given to some of us over 30 years of service and is still
there when needed. Ideal for small game hunting and household defense.
7. Glock 19
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Our Opinion: The Glock 19 is a very dependable handgun with a long history of working when
you need it and never letting the user down. Excellent for defense in tight confined areas. Also
might be used for small game hunting in an emergency and at close range.
Everyone has their preference as to what qualifies as the best survival gun, but history has
proven that rifle is the best all-purpose firearm to face a variety of combat and self-defense
scenarios.
However, a rifle should only be part of what many preppers refer to as a layered defense
system. It doesn’t matter if you are bugging out or sheltering, your need to arm yourself with a
variety of weaponry, self-defense skills and training is the same. With that said, if you could
have only one firearm in a survival situation it should be a quality rifle.
Though handguns and shotguns are also to be considered, a rifle will give you the most
versatility for handling a variety of post-disaster needs from hunting to perimeter
security. However, the options and varieties when it comes to choosing a survival rifle are
nearly endless and even the most avid shooters and preppers struggle to choose a favorite.
Ultimately, the choice comes down to your own personal preferences and needs, as there is no
such thing as the perfect survival rifle.
AR-15, AK-47, Ruger 10-22 and Remington 870 are considered to be among the best all-purpose
firearms to have on hand when SHTF, and we’ve already talked about them. But other 3 rifles
should be taken into account when choosing this particular type of firearm for your survival
arsenal.
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M1 Carbine
Though it hasn’t seen active duty in combat since Vietnam, the M1 Carbine was for years
considered to be one of the best combat rifles in the world. Designed as a more compact and
light weighted version of the M1 Garand, a
WWII infantry staple, the M1 Carbine was an
incredibly versatile rifle that had high effect and
tremendous accuracy, especially at mid-range.
To that effect, the M1 Carbine still serves as a great all-purpose rifle. The standard comes with
a 15-round magazine of .30-caliber rounds, which aren’t the best for taking down targets at a
distance, but serve their purpose at closer ranges and in hunting scenarios.
A modern take on the M1 Carbine, the AOM130, is available from Auto Ordinance for about
$800. The rifle, made in the USA at Kahr Arm’s Worcester, MA plant, weighs in at just 5.4-
pounds and features an 18-inch barrel and traditional walnut stock.
Unfortunately, the original models from WWII and Korea are getting harder to come by, which
is unfortunate, given the fact that even the old ones are still battle-ready anytime. However,
.30-caliber ammo is becoming increasingly more expensive and harder to come across giving
the M1 Carbine what is probably its only disadvantage as a modern-day survival rifle.
Marlin 1985 GS
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At 18.5-inches, the barrel of the gun is only slightly larger than a carbine-style rifle, but the
.45.70 Gov’t issued rounds over stopping power unlike most guns of its size. Whether you’re up
against a mob of angry looters, zombies, or a wild bear, the Marlin 1985 GS will have no
problem mowing down anything in its path.
In addition to its sheer stopping power, the rifle classic employs a classic walnut and stainless
steel design that’s both aesthetically pleasing and practical for battling against corrosion in
rough weather. The rifle starts at about $650, a reasonable price to pay for a rifle that’s
guaranteed to put food on the table and stop enemies in their tracks when the going gets
rough.
Though the Scout could still be considered a good survival rifle today, a more modern take on
the survival rifle can be found in the form of the Henry Arms AR-7. The AR-7 weighs a mere 3.5-
pounds and measures just 16-5-inches when broken down, making it ideal for concealed carry
in a bug out bag, vehicle, or even underneath your jacket.
The rifle comes with two 8-round magazines for chambering .22 LR ammunition, which is one of
the best and most readily available all-purpose survival rounds. The gun will only cost you
about $280 and can serve as either your primary or backup survival rifle.
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The rifles featured above by no means constitute a comprehensive list of the best all-purpose
survival rifles. There is a nearly unlimited array of options to choose from, each of which have
their advocates and serve various needs in the military, law enforcement, hunting, and target
shooting community. If you want to have the best chances of surviving a disaster scenario you
must equip yourself with a firearm that you feel comfortable shooting at both two-legged and
four-legged targets to protect and provide for yourself.
The selections above were chosen for their popularity, versatility, affordability, and ability to be
handled by shooters of all levels. The choice comes down to you, but in the end the best
survival rifle is the one you have with you, the one you have ammo for, and the one you’re
trained to shoot effectively.
Even though most publications related to firearms are aimed at men, there is no question that
lady preppers need information about how to build and use a survival arsenal. Do women need
smaller guns with less recoil? Is it harder for woman to learn how to shoot a gun and be a
responsible, proficient carrier of a concealed weapon?
In personal experience with my first wife, and also female friends and colleagues that were
hunters, champion marksmen, law enforcement, or military personnel; a woman can learn
everything necessary about guns, and use them just as efficiently as a man, in any survival
situation.
From that perspective, let me start this discussion by saying that there is no such thing as a
gender difference when it comes to using guns. The idea that women cannot use guns, or that
only certain guns can be fired by women just because of gender is as sexist as it is disrespectful
and dangerous.
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Many people will say that the height and weight of a woman (but not a man) is important when
deciding which handgun, rifle, or shotgun to select.
Regardless of gender, if you are small boned, not very tall, or light weighted, you may have a
problem with the recoil from larger caliber guns or those poorly designed in this aspect.
Once you experience discomfort or injury related to recoil, it can cause you to develop a flinch,
close your eyes, or develop other bad habits. Anticipating the recoil eventually leads to fear of
the gun that gave you a bad experience, and can easily make you afraid to try others that would
be perfect for your needs.
For revolvers and semi-auto pistols, you should be able to hold the firearm in a snug, tight grip
with no fingers or palms hanging below the grips. On a semi-auto pistol, be sure that the thumb
on your shooting hand can operate the safety and decoking lever.
You should also make sure you can easily operate the slide when loading the pistol. Hand grip
for a semi-auto is even more important than on a revolver because your hand may jump
upward past the grips and get caught by the slide when racking it. In addition, if you do not
have sufficient strength in your hands and fingers, the weapon cannot be loaded correctly,
which may cause it to jam up.
Important Tip: If the gun grips do not fit but you still want a specific gun, after-market grips or
magazine finger rests are available for most handguns. The gun will handle better and will be
more comfortable and safe to shoot with these accessories.
For semi-auto rifles and shotguns pay attention to the following before attempting to shoot the
gun:
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For semi-auto actions: make sure you have the strength in your hands and fingers to pull
the bolt back, and then hold the bolt back until the bolt open stop is activated. In order to
release the bolt, you must also be able to pull the bolt back and release it, or push the bolt
release button.
Make sure the gun fits snug in your shoulder
If semi-auto rifles or shotguns of interest have adjustable butt stocks, use the adjustment
lever or button and set the stock to the most comfortable setting. In one piece wood or
synthetic butt stocks, if the stock is too long, it may be possible to have the stock
shortened, (but stay within legal length ). Or, simply purchase a youth model, which is a
scaled down version of the standard model weapon.
You should be able to reach the trigger and safety comfortably when aiming and
shooting. The gun should not move when you fire it or have so much recoil that it could
knock you backwards.
No matter if you have small, medium, or large hands they must fit the gun grips. If your hands
do not fit, then poor accuracy and injuries to yourself are likely to occur. For example, too much
finger on the trigger can cause you to move the weapon off target when you pull the trigger.
This motion could continue to affect the direction of the bullet to off-target as the gun is fired.
Regardless of the gun type or shape, your trigger finger should sit comfortably outside of the
trigger guard until ready to fire. For greatest accuracy, only the trigger finger’s pad section
should come in contact with the trigger.
As with men shopping for guns, you will always have to consider the cost of the gun and ammo.
Before you buy a gun, do some research online to find out the average price of the guns you are
interested in buying. This will help you bargain for lower prices, and also make it easier to walk
away from scammers that think they can get more money out of you because you are a
woman.
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There are two ways to purchase firearms. The first way is to buy them new at a dealer at the list
price or higher depending upon demand. You get a good warranty, but you have to fill out the
Federal and State Forms to see if you can legally own them.
The second way is by private sale. There is NO paper work, but buyer must beware. The
weapon could be stolen, broken or dangerous to shoot. You will not get a warranty, and you
could wind up paying much more for the firearm plus repairs to make it safe and reliable to
operate.
Overall, the best weapon is one that you can control and fire with accuracy and confidence, as
well as one that you can get ammo, spare parts, and training to operate. Before you buy a
weapon, do some research online to find out which guns best match your needs, strength, and
budget.
Next, you will need to test these guns out to see which ones actually work best for you. This can
be done by renting the weapons at an indoor range or shooting them outside with friends on an
outdoor range. After test firing, you may find the right weapon, or you will need to do more
research to find a better gun for your needs.
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All of the weapons listed on the previous table are good quality, reliable, durable, easy to use,
and readily available. In most cases, current and projected ammo availability for these
weapons remains good or fair even after social collapse occurs. With this in mind I would safely
recommend these weapons to any lady prepper at any level of weapon knowledge.
Now is the time for women to buy and learn how to use firearms. In a crisis scenario, you will
need them for protection and hunting. With just a little bit of dedication to finding the right
weapon, and then a commitment to practicing your shooting and gun care skills, you will have a
better chance of surviving in a world gone mad.
When SHTF and security is a concern, the best firearm is the one you have with you–so long as
it’s loaded and you know how to use it. While that notion holds true if disaster were to strike
tomorrow, you have time to consider the logistics of your firearms preparation before a threat
becomes imminent.
To that end, some ammunition is considered more viable and effective for survival use than
others, though specifically can be considered the best. In a survival scenario, availability is key
when it comes to weapons and ammunition selection.
Thus, the following five types of ammunition have been selected primarily for their high
availability in normal times, which is likely to linger on when SHTF.
.22LR
The .22 caliber Long Rifle rimfire cartridge is commonly considered the best all-around survival
ammunition. The rounds are produced by nearly every ammunition manufacturer and are
available for most makes and models of both .22 caliber pistols and rifles. The generic 40-grain
high velocity round can be found for a dime a dozen, while more powerful rounds are also
tailor-made for mid-sized game hunting, self-defense, and competition shooting.
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As a relatively small round, the .22 is not the best self-defense ammunition, but when SHTF you
have to use what you have to defend what’s yours. If you stock up on high-performance
rounds, your abundance of ammo will at least give you a numbers advantage when it comes to
disposable ammunition against a potential threat.
12-gauge
Though many say the .22LR is the ultimate survival round, a large portion of the prepping
community agree that the shotgun is the ultimate survival weapon. To that end, the 12-gauge
shotgun shell deserves a spot in any survival defense system.
Though some brands produced for specific shooting purposes can be pricey, generic 12-gauge
rounds are relatively inexpensive and widely available.
When it comes to efficient ammo consumption, most people prefer pump-action shotguns to
the often complicated and slower-loading semi-automatic.
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12-gauge shotguns have been a staple for hunters of both four-legged and flying game for
decades, and have thus proved their practicality for use in a survival situation. Bird shot shells
will take down most flying fowl and small game, while buckshot and slug shells can be used
against deer and other bigger game.
12-gauge shotguns are also widely carried by members of the law enforcement and military
communities, as they are among the most formidable firearm in close-quarter scenarios. When
loaded with buckshot, a 12-gauge can mow down pretty much any target within 10-yards, while
slug rounds will extend the shotgun’s range and accuracy.
9mm
The 9mm is easily the mostly widely used pistol round in the
world. There has been a longstanding debate between the
9mm and .45 caliber as to which makes the better pistol
round, but ultimately it’s up to personal preference.
Like the .22 rimfire, there are a lot of options to choose from
when it comes to 9mm rounds. 115-grain FMJ and 124-grain
NATO rounds will likely remain the most readily available and inexpensive in the dawn and
aftermath of a disaster, and both are favored for their reliability when loaded in older-model
pistols and submachine guns.
Though most often found in handguns, there are some pistol-caliber carbine rifles that employ
the use of 9mm rounds. While a pistol is a must have in any layered defense, a 9mm carabine
rifle provides an additional platform for your 9mm rounds to be used for more effective self-
defense. Accordingly, they’ll do just as much justice as the best .22LR against small game for
emergency hunting use.
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5.56 NATO
As the primary round issued to American military servicemen and women, no prepper should
be without a rifle or carabine that fires the 5.56x45mm NATO round. The fact that weapons
factories, military installations, National Guard stations, and thousands of residential homes are
currently filled with 5.56 rounds, there isn’t likely to be a shortage on availability any time soon.
The 5.56 NATO has been field-tested and battle-approved to be a highly effective anti-
personnel round at a range of about 300-meters, depending of the barrel length of the gun.
When it comes to post-disaster survival, 300-meters is quite a distance to attempt hitting any
target, human or animal. While you’ll find some relief in knowing you’ll have your perimeter
covered, your efforts should be focused on designating targets within 100-meters, both for
hunting and self-defense. Though advanced optics will improve your accuracy, a military-style
5.56 rifle with basic iron sights can easily take down a buck at a moderate range in the hands of
a steady shooter.
Overall, you know you’ve got your hands on a reliable and versatile round in the same
ammunition used by the most formidable military in the world.
.308
The .308 Winchester–a shortened version of the .30-06–is a great alternative to the .22LR and
5.56, a jacketed version of the .22, for hunting and all-around survival purposes. .308 rounds
are available in weights between 147 and 180 grains and offer significantly more muzzle
velocity and stopping power than .22 and .223 rounds.
The .308 Winchester is essentially a civilian version of the 7.62x51mm NATO round, though the
two are not identical and the rounds are not always interchangeable.
The .308 has a reputation for reliable accuracy, and thus has long been favored by competition
rifle shooters, in addition to a plethora of hunters.
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From a 24-inch barrel, .308s have an effective range of about 800-yards. Though they would be
on the small side for the largest of North American game like moose and brown bear, which
would be best hunted using .300 Magnum rounds, .308 Winchesters are suited for hunting
most big game from bucks to bobcats.
Most AR10–and some AR15–platform rifles chamber .308 Winchester rounds, making them
equally suitable for defense purposes. Though the recent ammo shortage scares have many
concerned over the future availability of rifle ammunition, .308 rounds seem to have promising
odds for the long-term. As a commonly used sporting and military rifle/carbine round, .308s
are manufactured by dozens of North American and European companies alike.
Though you may prefer a grade of ammo not mentioned above, keep in mind that you will likely
have to pay more to stock more in normal times and look harder to maintain your stores when
SHTF. Because they are already so widely used in the law enforcement, military, hunting,
competition, and recreational shooting communities, the five types of ammo mentioned above
are considered to be incredibly useful and versatile selections for disaster survival.
Regardless of your favorite(s), make sure you store and rotate your ammo appropriately to
maintain its effectiveness and keep your shooting skills sharp.
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To keep the firearms in good working condition a good firearms repair manual covering the
firearms you own, several good quality cleaning kits, and a good quality shooter’s tool kit will be
needed.
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It is very important to know the estimated number of rounds the gun will fire before needing
various types of servicing. From there, you can base purchases of spare parts and other times
on the projected number of rounds you may wind up firing with each gun.
You should have at least enough kits on hand to cover all the ammo in your survival cache, and
then double or triple based on what you may pick up after the crisis hits.
Cleaning rods that can be assembled to clean pistols, rifles, and shotguns.
Wire brushes and swabs for each caliber or gauge.
A good quantity of cleaning solvents and lubricants.
For every firearm you own there should be a spare parts kit available from the manufacturer.
Keeping these on hand will ensure that all of firearms will last longer, maintain their accuracy,
and be more dependable. The following is a general listing of minimal spare parts to have on
hand. Like all minimal lists this is just a starting point, add to it based on the manual for your
gun and to satisfy your individual needs.
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Semi-auto pistol
Barrel
Recoil spring
Extractor and extractor spring
Firing pin and firing pin spring
Ejector and ejector spring
Trigger, hammer, sear, springs and other trigger parts if needed
Mainspring
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Revolvers
The manufacturer should always have spare parts or other aftermarket supplies. You can ask
the company gunsmith about the pros and cons of buying and storing various parts for your
specific gun model. They will be able to offer insights based on quality control after sales
information as well as from other sources.
If the manufacturer is no longer in business, the gun is too old, or you are looking for cheaper
prices, do not miss out on local gun shows. You can always find an experienced gunsmith and
ask them about which parts to buy and why. Also you can see, touch, and inspect the parts
before you buy them.
As a last resort, you can look online for information about which parts are most likely to fail,
and focus on adding extra units to your parts kit.
The following internet sites I have used in the past to locate and purchase replacement or spare
parts for the firearms that I own. I recommend them because the price and the quality of their
goods are excellent. For Handguns, rifles, and shotguns of all types we
recommend brownells.com.
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midwayusa.com/ar15-parts
cheaperthandirt.com
brownells.com
cmmginc.com
davidscollectibles.com
midwayusa.com
brownells.com
tapco.com/products/ak
davidscollectibles.com
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During and after a crisis there will be no authorized service, no guarantees, little or no spare
parts, and maintenance kits for firearms will be a thing of the past. If a firearm breaks and is no
longer serviceable, keep it and cannibalize it for parts that may be traded for spare parts for
other usable firearms.
If you are attacked by other wandering groups and a firefight occurs, there is no wrong in
fighting to the death and taking whatever supplies the other party had at the time of the
skirmish. Take and keep captured firearms for replacement weapons or spare parts. Bury the
dead respectfully from both sides and move on.
Being a good gunsmith and a blacksmith can help keep your group’s firearms and other
equipment in good working order. It can also be used as a trade to barter for food and other
needs as society drifts towards reformation.
Be sure to appoint at least one person in your group to be proficient in this trade; and then
have at least one or two apprentices. These students should be taught how to repair firearms
by making and repairing stocks, how to make small metal parts, and how to heat treat them.
Because of the difficulty associated with making stamped steel products for firearms outside of
a steel mill, there will be a return to older firearm designs that can be hand forged.
The time to prepare your firearms for a crisis is now, before the economy crashes for good and
a crisis that seriously disrupts daily life starts. Obtain and make spare parts kits now before the
parts and information become unattainable.
Now is the time to learn to become a gunsmith and a blacksmith. These trades can also be a
lifesaver to your survival group.
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While these are important aspects of owning and shooting a gun, they don’t teach you
what it’s like to have to use your firearm for self-defense. What is the best way to keep
your survival gun so it’s always at the ready? How do you do so without jeopardizing
the safety of your family and self?
After all, when SHTF and the looters come knocking, they aren’t going to wait patiently while
you run to your safe and load up. No one ever wants to use his/her gun against a human
target. But if your life is on the line the best gun for survival will always be the one you have on
you that’s ready to fire.
Below we will take a look at some do’s and don’ts for keeping your guns at the ready.
1. DO invest in a high quality safe. Especially if you have children in your home, this
should be a given.
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company that employs the use of biometric technology that gives you access to your safe with
the scan of a fingerprint.
They also make several keypad entry safes, which are also quicker to access than traditional key
varieties. In an emergency, these types of safes will get you to your guns quickly while still
keeping them safely away from children and any unwanted attention.
2. Don’t simply hide your guns and expect no one to find them. Also, don’t give
anyone access to your safe codes unless they have your trust and the training to shoot.
Don’t think that stowing your rifle on top of your china cabinet is putting it out of reach in a
safe place.
The same goes for a handgun shoved under a mattress or stuffed in a sock drawer. Though
easily accessible, these should not be considered suitable locations to keep your weapons.
In the hands of an untrained user, an unloaded gun and a box of ammo might as well be a stick
of dynamite and a match. That doesn’t mean you have to keep the gun on the top floor and the
ammo in the basement. Simply keep them separated enough as to not incite an accident.
If SHTF, you’ll have more reason to keep both gun and ammo in more easily accessible
locations, if not on your person.
4. Don’t keep your firearms loaded in the house. In some cases doing so is illegal,
but in any case it’s outright dangerous.
It may sound like the only way to be prepared for an unwanted home invader or hostile
situation, but it’s more likely to be a liability than an asset. As mentioned above, it’s better to
keep your guns and ammo separate and locked up whenever possible. If keeping a loaded gun
is an absolute must for you, make sure it is at the very least locked up whenever not in use.
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That means cleaning and lubricating your firearms after every trip to the range. Most gun
stores sell gun cleaning kits that include solvent, lubrication oil, rod and jag, and everything else
you need for a basic clean.
6. Don’t let your guns lay around for extended periods of time without seeing
any use or attention. Accordingly, don’t take your gun to the range day in and day out
without ever cleaning it in between. If it’s a gun used for seasonal hunting or
recreational range shooting, you can allow a bit more residue to build up before
needing to address it.
Fortunately, modern powder is non-corrosive and won’t eat through the barrel of your gun,
which gives you some leeway on how often it must be cleaned. Just don’t expect that your
grandfather’s shotgun in the closet that hasn’t seen the light of day in years will perform on
demand when you need it at a moment’s notice.
8. Don’t neglect the laws of your local area when it comes to owning and carrying a
weapon. The last thing you want is to have your guns confiscated by the authorities before a
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SHTF situation, leaving you without proper protection. Don’t expect to carry your firearm
around in public without being harassed unless you are lawfully permitted to do so. Also, don’t
purchase any firearms from anywhere other than an authorized dealer, as that too could pose
legal issues.
9. DO invest as much time as you can practicing with your firearm and staying
up to date on safety and training
techniques. Don’t assume that you know
Practice, practice, and more practice will give you a much better chance of accessing your gun
and using it effectively to defend you and your home.
When SHTF, you can count on Murphy’s law to render your gun useless at the worst possible
moment. Fortunately, not all problems mean the gun will never fire again. Nor do they mean
you will need to locate a gunsmith to fix the gun.
Knowing how to assess these 7 common reasons for gun failure and how to resolve them is very
important. Studying your weapon and preparing your parts kit and tools now can be a life saver
later on.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN ANY KIND OF TROUBLESHOOTING FOR ANY REASON, UNLOAD THE GUN
AND MAKE IT SAFE.
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Let’s see the first safety steps to take when fixing your gun:
For semi-auto pistols and rifles drop the magazine clear of the weapon and work the
action to clear the gun of any ammo in the chamber.
In bolt action rifles, open the floor plate of the magazine and remove the live ammo.
Then work the action to remove any chambered rounds.
In semi-auto and pump shotguns, unload the tube magazine with the barrel pointing in a
safe direction.
In pump shotguns this can be done by racking the slide backward and forward until all of
the shotgun shells are out of the shotgun.
In semi-auto shotguns work the bolt backwards and forwards, until all of the shotgun
shells are out of the shotgun. Then check to see that the chamber is empty.
Bad primers – If gun stops firing while shooting, check the spent brass or shot shells for
splits or light indentations on the primer. If the primer is bad, the weapon will not fire
on the first strike of the firing pin. It may take another try, but remember to wait 10
seconds before trying again. There can be a delayed firing of the gun due to a cool spark
from the primer.
Old or wet powder – To keep this from happening again check all of your ammo to see if
it is clean and dry. If not get a better waterproof container for the ammo.
Gun out of battery (ie. slide not aligned with receiver. See Gun Bolt Does Not Lock up In
the Receiver chapter below).
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If you were just firing the gun, wait 1 – 2 minutes and feel the receivers to see if they are hot to
the touch. Consult user’s manual for specific instructions for your gun model.
Disassemble weapon so the bolt and bolt carrier are easy to work on. Spray some good
penetrating oil on the bolt and carrier and let it soak. When the assembly is cool and unfrozen,
remove the bolt and bolt carrier and inspect and replace broken, discolored, bent, or cracked
parts.
Aside from this, on bolt action rifles, check the back of the bolt to see if it has slipped from its
normal operating position. If it has, pull the back portion of the bolt out and return this part
back to where it belongs. Then the bolt should open. After repairs thoroughly clean and
lubricate the weapon and work the action.
If it these steps do not work, you will need to take the weapon to a gunsmith.
In most cases, the bolt is not correctly seated on bolt carrier. If the bolt does not line up
correctly, explosive pressure from the cartridge can blow the bolt back, causing a backfire and
severe injuries to the shooter.
According to the type of the gun, the symptoms and fixes are:
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In bolt actions rifles, bolt handle may not go all the way down to locked position. Remove
the bolt and inspect it. Check to see if it is correctly assembled. If not, follow user’s manual
to correctly assemble it and return it to the receiver. Test to make sure it works.
In pump shotguns, the slide does not go all the way forward and lock. Pull back on front
stock to open and inspect the bolt for broken, bent, or over-heated metal. Replace as
needed and reassemble. Test for functionality.
In semi-automatic rifles, ejection port may be open or exposed. Remove the slide, and
remove the bolt. Then inspect the bolt for broken or bent locking lugs, weak spring, or dirt.
Clean and re-install the bolt in the slide. Put the slide on the receiver and function check.
In semi-automatic pistols, slide is slightly back overhanging the frame. Remove slide
portion, inspect barrel lug, slide release pin, and front bushings. If any one of these parts
are misaligned, gun will go out of battery and will not fire. Realign and replace broken or
bent pieces to restore function.
In revolvers, cylinder does not lock into place in the frame because ejector rod may be
bent. Replace ejector rod or cylinder latch.
The gun is not firing, and you only hear a faint, metal/snapping sounding click when pulling the
trigger. That sound will put terror in the heart of the strongest warrior. It is not the same sound
as when the gun is out of ammo. This sound means the firing pin just broke on your weapon.
To fix, remove the bolt from the weapon and remove the firing pin from the bolt. Replace with
a new firing pin from your spare parts kit and reassemble the bolt. Put the bolt back in the
firearm in its proper place.
If you do not have a spare firing pin, you can make one from a strait nail just a little bigger than
the broken firing pin. Use the broken firing pin as a guide to make the new one. When finished
check to see if it fits. Heat treat the new firing pin by placing in hot coals until it turns red, then
quickly drop the pin in a can of cold water. This will harden the new firing pin.
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This is only a temporary fix until you can get a proper firing pin. If the gun fires, use the weapon
only for emergencies until you can get a new firing pin.
The major cause of this is a broken extractor. Since each gun model is slightly different, consult
the owner’s manual for specific removal and replacement instructions. Be sure that each of
your weapons has a spare parts kit that includes a new extractor, and appropriate tools.
A broken brass case can also cause a gun to not extract a round out of the chamber. Follow
user’s manual instructions and use broken case removal tool to solve the problem. You should
have at least one case removal tool for every caliber bullet that you own.
7. Slam Fire
Sometimes gun fires more than one shot with each pull of the trigger, and this problem is
limited to semi-auto weapons only. If the weapon is very dirty the firing pin may be stuck with a
portion outside of the bolt. This causes the weapon to fire on the closing of the bolt. Clean
thoroughly to resolve.
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Another cause of a slam fire is a broken catch sear or hammer sear in the trigger group.
Disassemble this group in the receiver and replace all parts in the group even if only one part is
broken.
Even though guns are meant to be strong and durable, simple things can cause them to appear
broken. If you notice any of these problems, you may be able to fix them in the field, as well as
take steps to avoid future problems. As with any other machine, proper cleaning and
maintenance will prevent these 7 problems and more serious ones.
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Today’s Preppers have thought hard and spent a lot of money on all that is needed to get
through a time of major crisis. In today’s rough and crime filled world a firearm is also necessity
of life. Those who do not believe this cannot comprehend what is really going on in the world
around them. They just feel that being a victim could never happen to them.
Firearms are purchased to defend the stockpile and stop those who would murder, rape,
torture your family, or do anything else that their sick little minds can think of.
If you do not secure your loaded firearms, but only hide them out of plain sight, this is a recipe
for disaster. In particular, your own child or some other person could find your gun and shoot
you long before you need the gun for survival or stopping a crime.
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Then, you just become another statistically irresponsible gun owner, and if you live, your grief
and other problems will never end. This is why you must have safe, secured places to store
loaded firearms and keep them at the ready.
Here are a few things to consider to make your home safer and more defensible in a time of
major crisis. These suggestions will also buy enough time to enable you to access stored and
loaded weapons without as much danger to yourself and others.
The outer doors and windows are your first line of defense against home invasions, burglaries,
robberies and other criminal behavior.
These areas must be reinforced and strengthened to with stand multiple hard kicks or strikes
from a heavy battering ram. Windows must be made to withstand repeated attacks.
Install steel heavy duty outer doors with heavy duty hinges.
Install high quality lock sets to include dead bolts.
Have the door frame reinforced and anchored extra deep in the outer wall.
Install heavy duty storm doors with a heavy duty latching area.
Install removable extra heavy duty bracing bars to give extra support to the door.
Install door peep holes instead of door chains so you can see who is outside.
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Children can find almost anything or do anything when they put their mind to it. Parents should
never hide a gun thinking a child will never find it. They will find it. You may have put it way up
on the top shelf of a closet. Children will do unbelievable feats of climbing to get at what they
want.
The only thing that will keep a child safe from firearms is education and a well-built lockable
container. It is the responsibility of the parents to teach their children firearm safety. Start with
them young and explain it to them in a way that they can understand. Do it often so that they
remember, but never assume that they or their friends are going to act responsibly in the
presence of a gun.
What to do when they see a gun laying a round with no one else around: Stop, do not
touch it, leave the area, and tell an adult immediately.
The steps of “stop” and “do not touch it” are the two most important parts to teach
children. It is a natural impulse for a child to touch a gun. Your children must totally
understand these two steps and what might happen if they do not.
In today’s world where adult supervision is lax or nonexistent, your children must be
told why, and understand the reason why they must “leave the area”.
To “tell an adult immediately” emphasizes that children should tell an adult that they
trust if their parents or guardian is not there.
A gun is not a toy, and can cause great bodily injury or death no matter who is holding it.
Always assume that a gun loaded.
Never point a gun at another person.
Never handle a gun.
Never throw, drop, or horse play with a gun.
If you carry regularly, secure the gun immediately when you get home and tell your
children why.
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Teach your children not to be influenced by peer pressure and do what you told them to
do.
Most states impose laws that define the firearm owner’s duties to deny access to firearms by
children. One of the most used criminal charges placed on adults by police after a child finds,
discharges, or shoots someone with a firearm is Child Endangerment or Child Neglect. Civil
liability is the next nightmare that comes your way.
Here a plaintiff sues you for your actions of not properly securing a firearm, all damages, and
putting a child’s life in danger or worse.
Even if you are single or married without children do not use the following hiding places. Your
family or other visiting friends may have children visiting with them, and just as badly, any
criminal entering your home may gain access to these guns long before you do.
Aside from that, if you aren’t feeling well, get drunk, sleepwalk, or forget there is a gun hidden
in these places, you can easily put your own life at risk.
In empty cereal boxes. Children would think that there is food in the box and would find
the gun.
Duck taping a gun under a table. Most children play in and around tables and would
notice it.
Kept in hollowed out books left around. Children are very interested in books and
magazines and would open them and find the gun.
Hiding rifles and shotguns under the couch. A lot of children play on the floor and would
find them.
Hiding a gun in a hollowed out space behind a picture. Children notice everything.
Seeing a new framed picture or one that is hanging differently may interest a child to
investigate why and find the gun.
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Hiding a gun inside a large vase. Children pick up and play with different types of
pottery and will find the gun.
In a closet hanging over the door. Children like to hide and play in closets. The gun will
be noticed and the child will climb up to investigate. The child has found the gun.
In a car, hiding a holstered gun inside the front passengers seat closed by Velcro.
Children sitting in the back of the vehicle can see the change in the appearance of the
front seat and will investigate and find the gun, not to mention you will spend a fortune
on refurbishing if your vehicle is leased. Also if you do not have a concealed carry permit
you might be charged for a hidden gun within the driver’s reach.
Hiding a gun under a pile of towels in the bathroom. Children like to play in closets and
will either feel the gun or see it.
In a brown paper bag next to the refrigerator. Children are curious and love to play
with paper bags almost as much as cats do!
Hiding a small compact gun inside of a small CD wallet in your car or home. Children are
curious and they will open the CD wallet when you are not looking and find the gun.
Hiding a gun behind the heat pump or air return filter. Children are very curious and
like to explore what is behind air vents or air grills and they will find the gun. Another
thing to think about is what would happen if the gun became dislodged and fell into the
air return system.
Hiding a gun between the mattress and the box spring. A child playing on the bed could
feel a hard lump and reach under the mattress and pull out the gun. Worse yet, if they
decide to use the bed as a trampoline, they might cause the gun to fire.
Hiding a gun on top of a book case. Most children love to climb and sooner or later they
will find the gun.
Hiding a gun behind a door. This is a no brainer, children will find the gun the next time
they are in that room with the door closed.
Hiding a gun under a pillow. Children will feel the lump and move the pillow aside and
find the gun.
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In the days following a major crisis the high crime rate and
chance of home invasion also creates a real need for safe
storage places for firearms and valuables.
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These heavy well-built safes are designed to withstand fairly long periods of time when being
hammered on, trying to cut open with torches, or trying to manually rip them open. Also they
offer a decent protection time against fire or heat. These safes should be kept out of sight in
safe rooms. Bolting these safes down on to the floor is a required precaution. A good floor safe
can cost $499.99 to $1299.99.
These are small lockable metal safes that are designed to be bolted under desks, tables, inside
cabinets, or closets. They use either a key or a palm finger push pad to unlock. The average
price of these safes is $90.00 to $199.99.
These lockable metal safes are designed to be bolted down in closets or behind large couches.
They use either a key or a palm finger pad to unlock. The average price of these safes is $100.00
to $300.00.
This lockable handgun container should be placed out of plain sight and secured to the floor
behind light furniture, in cabinets, or in closets. The average price of the 50 caliber ammo can is
about $25.00.
During the time of a major crisis there will be a need to have firearms to protect your family
and your stockpile. Your best and first form of defense is to have reinforced exterior doors and
windows. This will stop or slow down those individuals that are trying to break in and give you
time to retrieve your weapons and set into action the home defense plan.
Keeping loaded weapons in a secured location protects you and your family from disaster. Use
a combination floor safe to store unloaded firearms and valuables.
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Always use quick access lockable safes when hiding loaded weapons for quick accessing in
times of extreme danger. If you do not have a quick access safe, use a 50 caliber ammo can that
can be locked and secured to the floor.
Before a time of serious crisis, the survivalist should start collecting ammunition for every
firearm that they own or intend to take with them. Given the nature of social collapse, it is best
to avoid drawing attention to yourself while building your ammunition supply. You will also
need to exercise caution in practicing skills, and buying other defense items that may be
needed later on.
Make a point to buy your ammunition a little at a time each payday; and also buy your
ammunition at many different stores instead of just one. If you purchase the ammunition at a
gun show, shop around for the best price. A lot of times people buy name brands out of habit
instead of looking at all of the brands.
Research the ammunition manufacturers, and keep a running list of price comparisons. In many
cases other brands are cheaper, but their standards of manufacture are at the same level as the
brand names. Buy some to test in your weapons to see which works the best. You can also buy
ammo by phone, order blank, or on the internet, and then have it shipped to you by freight.
Remember, though, there will always be an address trail through the shipper or the seller that
reveals your purchase.
Even if the transaction goes through smoothly, a raid on the seller’s shipping books or detailed
financial/banking transactions can reveal your information and trigger an investigation,
especially if it is defined as illegal in your area. No matter where you buy ammo from, here are
some important things not to do:
Do not buy ammunition that has a box date over 10 years old,
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Do not buy if the box or carton is ripped, broken, or the seal is not intact,
Do not buy loose ammunition that you personally have not checked over,
Do not buy any ammunition at a super low discount price because you may be buying
ammunition “seconds”, production rejects, or stolen inventory.
The best way to store ammunition is in an air-tight and water-tight ammo can in a cool dry
area. Regardless of the ammo can size, always include stay dry packets to manage any
condensation that may form.
A 50 caliber ammo can usually holds between 500 to 1000 rounds of Centerfire ammunition
depending on the caliber being stored in it. The same size ammo can also be used to hold
approximately 2000 rounds of .22 LR ammo, or 200 12 Ga shotgun shells. I also like the handles
on the 50 caliber ammo cans because you can carry 2 to 4 cans at one time (as long as that is
within your carrying capacity).
Another good ammo can is the 20mm. It can hold the contents of about four 50 caliber ammo
cans, but may be too big and heavy for one person to manage. These ammunition containers
are better used for storage at the actual base camp.
Some bulk ammunition cans or tins are already sealed, preserved, and ready for storage. These
ammunition cans or tins can be opened with a large can opener that is usually supplied, by
using a bayonet, or other heavy knife. This ammunition is usually packaged or boxed in a set
number of rounds for the specific weapon that it is to be used in.
Do not store ammunition in a hot, cold, or wet conditions without proper containers,
Do not bury ammunition in the ground without proper containers,
Do not hide ammunition in easy to find places,
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The shelve life of ammunition is how long it can be stored before it starts to break down. Some
things to check for:
Reloading is essentially an ammo recycling and alteration method that can be used only with
certain types. When you reload ammunition you have better quality control over the selection
of the components: the bullets, cases, powders, and primers. With reloading, you can also
custom tailor the ammunition to a particular firearm for the best accuracy and performance.
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When you buy your components in bulk, it is also possible to lower the cost per round of
ammunition. When you are first learning to reload, it is important to have a face-to-face
mentor. This individual should teach you the safe way to reload ammunition. (Note explicit
directions are not given in this article. Consult an appropriate reloading manual and work with a
mentor so that you remain safe and learn how to reload properly. Often, what looks simple on
paper can turn into a disaster if even one step is overlooked).
Always follow the manufacturers printed step by step instructions in the presence of
your mentor.
Practice with dry runs until you become familiar with the reloading equipment, and you
feel satisfied that you are ready to begin to reloading live ammunition.
For Centerfire ammunition reloading, choose the best smokeless powder and bullet
design to use from the reloading handbook. This book reveals minimal to maximum
bullet and smokeless powder weights.
For shot shell ammunition reloading, select smokeless powder and shot size to use from
a shot shell reloading handbook. This handbook will list minimal to maximum shot
charges and smokeless powder weights.
Reloading manual: This book gives the reloader all of the important data to safely reload
all of the popular centerfire pistol and rifle ammunition. It covers bullet weight, powder
charge, type of primer, average velocity, and type of shell case.
Reloading press: This is the most important tool in the reloading process. The press
gives the reloader the mechanical advantage and a platform to deprime the case, full
case resizing, seating of primers in the case primer pocket, aiding with dispensing the
powder charge when using a powder measuring device, and seating the bullet.
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A good manual balance powder scale to measure the smokeless powder charge. This
scale when balanced will give you a very accurate measurement of smokeless powder to
be used safely in the bullet casing.
Bullet case lubricant kit: If the bullet cases do not have a thin coating of lubricant there
is a chance that it will get stuck in one of the reloading dies.
Bullet case trimmer: When a bullet fires, the case expands just a little. After a couple
shots the bullet case becomes too long to be safely reloaded and must be shortened
back to a safe length.
Case measuring ruler: The ruler tells the reloader the exact length of the case. Next
check the measurement against the go, no go table in the reloading manual. If the case
is too long to use, cut the case back to specs with the case trimmer.
Reloading bullet trays: These trays are designed to hold the bullet case in the upright
position so they do not fall over in the reloading procedure. They come in sizes for
either centerfire pistol or rifle cases.
A good set of reloading dies and a shell holder: For each caliber of ammunition that you
reload there must be a set of reloading dies with the corresponding shell holder.
My personal pick for a reloading system is the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading
Kit. Priced at $349.99 is an excellent value for a complete starter system. The only thing
required with this kit is a set of dies and shell holder for each caliber that you are going to
reload.
Rifle 2 die sets run $77.95 to $92.95 each depending on caliber. Shell holder are priced at
$14.95 each. Pistol 3 die carbide sets are are $65.95 each in all the popular calibers. Shell
holders are priced at $14.95 each. This whole reloading system can be stored in a footlocker for
a fast bug out.
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A good shot shell reloading manual: This manual gives the reloader all the necessary
information to safely reload all of the popular shot shells. This manual covers powder
charge, shot charge, type of primer, and type of shot shell casing.
A good reloading press: This is the most important tool in the shot shell reloading
process. This press gives the reloader the mechanical advantage and a platform to
deprime the shot shell, prime the shot shell, dispensing a powder charge when using a
powder measuring device, lines up and inserts the wad, measures and inserts the shot,
and crimps down the the top of the shot shell.
A powder and shot bar: This bar holds the bushings that measure fixed powder and shot
weights to be loaded in to the shot shell.
A good manual balance powder scale: This measuring device gives a very accurate
measurement of the smokeless powder charge to be used safely in the shot shell.
Reloading shot shell trays: Used to hold and organize the shot shells when finished
reloading.
My pick for a shot shell reloader is the Lee Load-All Reloader. They are made in 12Ga. 16 Ga.,
and 20 Ga. Each of these reloaders are priced at $57.99 each. The only thing you might want to
add is an optional primer feed.The 12 Ga. and the 20 Ga. will reload 2 3/4 and 3“shot shells. The
16 Ga. reloader only reloads 2 3/4 shot shells.
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Do not try to reload 22 rimfire ammunition – it is beyond the scope of this article, and also
beyond most people that do reloading.
xxx
In conclusion, the prepper must know how to collect, store, replenish, and reload ammunition.
These simple techniques will help you survive and maintain the vital ammunition supplies that
you own. Try to make your storage containers small, light, and easy to carry.
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