Chapter 3
Chapter 3
Chapter 3
Garment marketing has some of the distinctive characteristics such as; severe
competition owing to relatively low barriers, strong reliance on psychological obsolescence
which has necessitated timely change, seasonality leading to short-half-life of the
merchandise, conditions of change and competition that has necessitated high mark-
downs and fast turnovers. Various competitive forces have also been threatening the
exporters to withstand the market. Competitive Forces in Garment Industry has been
shown in Exhibit No. 3.1.
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Threat of substitute
products or services
Satisfying buyers’ needs have been a prerequisite for industry’s profitability, though
not sufficient; understanding the expectations of the buyers and the relative importance given
by them on various value chain elements has to be taken into consideration for improved
marketing performances. The large retailers, who have directly entered India for sourcing,
often work through their overseas offices. Before the buyers arrived in India, the type of
products they want to source and the price they are willing to pay have been already
decided based on the current satisfaction level with reference to different competing
supplier countries. There have been many aspects such as competition, infrastructure,
import-export policies, foreign exchange regulations, business policies and ethics,
creativity / design, marketing / sales and cost control, delivery and service, planning and
merchandising, fabric and apparel development that can be controlled and improved by
individual exporters. The Government has to contribute for developing the industry’s
competitive advantage as a whole and bring about better satisfaction levels for buyers,
prompting them to allocate higher budgets for sourcing from India.
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After identifying the competitive forces and equipping the sourcing system, an
exporter has to concentrate on marketing strategies, which have played a vital role in
developing a business.
A Marketing strategy has an articulated plan for the best use of the organizations’
resources and the tactics, to meet their objectives. Elements such as organization structure
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A firm, which plans to go for export marketing, has to make a series of strategic
decisions.
The general object of international marketing intelligence has included the collection,
processing, analysis and interpretation of all types of information from all available sources,
to aid business management in making international marketing decision.
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J) ORGANIZATIONAL DECISIONS
A company planning for a direct export has to decide about its organizational
structure for an effective performance of an export function. This decision has to be
necessarily based on the nature of the export market and the product, the size and the
resources of the company and the length of its export experience.
According to Tirupur Exporters Association, 55% of the exports from Tirupur has
been sent to Europe, 35 % to USA and the rest of 10 per cent to the Middle East (Egypt, Iran,
Iraq, Turkey, Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Syria, Israel etc.,) and oceanic countries (Island countries
found in the Pacific ocean, New Zealand, Australia, etc.,). Most of the leading international
brands such as Nike, Cutter & Buck, Adidas, GAP, Tommy Hilfiger, Katzenberg, Van
Heusen, Fila, Arrow and leading retail chain stores such as C&A, Wal-Mart, Target,
Mother’s Care, H&M, have sourced garments regularly from Tirupur. It has also supplied
jerseys to players in the last Federation international World Cup Football tournament.
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Tirupur has been basically a cotton ginning cluster before it had transformed into
a knitwear cluster. In due course, Tirupur cotton market and ginning factories had lost
woven their edge, where many of these entrepreneurs had switched over to knitwear
production, for survival. Mr Gulam Kadar in 1937 had established “Baby Knitting
Industries” in Kaderpet area at Tirupur. He had started making men’s vests, known as
‘banians’, followed by Mrs. Chellammal, named Chellammal Knitting. The first export of
knitted garments had been made to the US and Ghana by Mohan Knits through a Bombay
merchant exporter in 1972. Till 1978, the manufacturers at Tirupur had been doing job
work only for merchant- exporters at Mumbai.
The turning point for the industry had happened when Mr. Verona from Italy had
visited Tirupur in the year 1978, through a merchant- exporter at Mumbai. Realizing the
potential of Tirupur he had made frequent visits in the subsequent years and had
supported the manufacturers to export to Europe. On seeing the quality of the garment
manufactures and understanding the opportunities, C&A, a major retail chain entered
Tirupur to buy the garments in the year 1981. Commendable interest in product range
expansion shown by entrepreneurs had attracted more and more buyers to Tirupur.
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Most of the exporters have mainly relied on the related industries or various operations,
hence it has been necessary to know the value chain involved in the process of export business.
The supporting units have made the industry a specialized one among the countries
worldwide.
Tirupur has been known for the inter related activities such as Knitting, Dyeing
& Bleaching, Compacting and Calendaring, Fabric Printing, Garmenting, Embroidery
and other ancillary operations. The following Exhibit No.3.2 has shown the Capacity of
Tirupur Garment Units in various operations.
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Source: http://tiruppur.tn.nic.in/textile.html
A second type of relationship that has involved the ‘horizontal’ linkages between
and among the firms has been the cluster, with each firm managing the dual objectives of
competing and cooperating in specific areas of common interest. They have been the
business development service providers or educational institutions. At the centre, the
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There have been a number of local representative institutions and support bodies
that had an important impact on the development of the knitwear sector in Tirupur. The cluster
has 7010 units and has been linked through several commercial and non commercial
linkages. There has been a high degree of subcontracting relationship among them due to
the nature of operations. The role of several industry associations has been commendable in
supporting the firms, by playing a quasi judiciary role to settle various intra and inter firm
disputes. The Government associations such as South India Textile Research Association
(SITRA), Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), Textile committee and National Small
Industries Corporation have been some of the institutions which have provided sectoral
support. Besides, the nationalized banks, Tamilnadu Industrial Investment Corporation
(TIIC) also has involved in providing long term and short term financial assistance. With all
the support, the industry has gained its importance in the knitwear map of India.
The various factors that have influenced the growth of the industry have been
dealt with below.
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The government bodies have also been rendering their support to uplift the industry.
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3.5.4.2. SITRA: The South India Textile research association has been providing
consultancy services like shrinkage control of knit fabric, colour fastness, improvement
in dyeing and printing.
The growth of the industry can be assessed through the elements of competitiveness.
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Knitted garments have found their markets all over the world and the consumers
have belonged to all age groups from children to the aged. Diversification in the export
market with respect to the T-shirts, jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, ladies blouses, dresses,
children wear, sports wear, night dress, swim wear, industrial wear & non apparel
products like gloves have been therefore a logical step for the industry, for a higher value
addition. Business environment, Quality & reliability of the products, prevalence of
business ethics and readiness to face high risk in the market (perceived as an investment)
have been the driving forces for growth. Proactive marketing has helped the industry, to
transform an insignificant exporter of knitted vests (banians) to become a dominant and
multiproduct exporter of cotton knitwear garments.
The next important feature that has influenced the competitiveness has been
discussed below.
Industry generally tends to succeed where the management practices and modes
of organization have been favored by the environment to suit the industries’ sources of
competitive advantage. The attitude toward authority, norms of interpersonal interaction
and social norm have an impact on firms’ competitive advantage. Industry has been well
known for its collaborative working and high level of social capital. The high level of
subcontracting, existence of strong industrial associations with proactive knowledge
sharing and number of government schemes to support them have jointly benefited the
industry. The industry has an excellent standing, in terms of collective firm strategy.
There have been fifteen active industry associations, playing a commendable role in
supporting their members. Besides helping the members in clearing procedural formalities,
providing information for policy changes of the government. Gradually many export
houses have started to implement Corporate Social Responsibilities (CSR) related
initiatives like running of school for children from the neighbouring villages, clinics in
their own factory premises, periodical medical check up, HIV prevention etc.
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The industry has grown considerably over the last one decade with the joint
initiatives taken by the firms, through the related supporting industries. Supply chain
management, viz., the management of a network of interconnected businesses has
encompassed the planning and management of all activities involved in sourcing,
procurement, conversion logistic management, co-ordination and collaboration with
channel partners, which can be suppliers, intermediaries, third –party service providers
and customers.
Some of the infrastructural constraint and policy disadvantages that dampen the
competitiveness of the industry drawn as follow:
Despite the inherent comparative advantage, the Indian garment industry has a
high cost structure, which has come in the way of maximizing the gain from the market.
South East Asian countries and China have been India’s main competitors who have
a lower labour cost. Since a large portion India’s exports have been from the lower priced
segment where labour intensity has been high, has it to improve the efficiency and
productivity to increase the cost competitiveness of these segments. As regards
manufacturing of garments and made ups, India has a significant cost disadvantage against
each competing country, primarily on account of high power cost and high finance cost.
The lower capital costs have been reflected from the low capital utilization in the clothing
industry. Slow technological up gradation has led to lower efficiency in quality and
productivity in the Indian clothing industry.
Export performance primarily has depended upon cost quality and strict compliance
of the delivery time. In case of mass market it has more of costs and delivery time,
assuming that a reasonable level of quality has been maintained. In such a scenario,
economies of scale have become important because higher scale of operation has provided
the opportunity to reduce per unit costs.
The industry has concentrated on high value added segments, reducing the labour
costs gradually. Labour has viewed as human capital in which investments have to be
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Many exporters and buying agents in Tirupur have pointed out the greatest
weakness in the production techniques, have been seen specially in printing segments.
Acute shortage in power supply has become an important infrastructural hindrance that
has increased the production cost. Besides the simple escalation in energy costs, power
cut has interrupted the production process and has affected the delivery schedule.
Prior to 1985, Tirupur’s knitwear value chain had been characterized by low value
production, low value-addition and low value-retention. Later, the Investment had not
only increased the capacity to produce at high quality standard, but had raised the
efficiency of production. Networks of local out-sourcers had been established to increase
the cluster’s flexibility. Consideration has been given to establish a physical market
presence (a distribution warehouse) in Europe and USA. A strategy has been worked out
to establish the ‘TIRUPUR BRAND’ to strengthen the market awareness and
penetration and to enhance the overall value of the product. To reach the performance
level, the garment exporters have to establish the marketing strategies for a distinctive
positioning based on their capabilities.
The history of Tirupur as the king of Hosiery has been recapitulated in terms of its
past records and its future prospects. The strength and the constraints of the industry has
briefed from the point of view of the reported information and the theoretical exposition.
The condition on the field has to be elicited only through first hand information obtained
from the industry players. The study has been organized to obtain the opinion from the
300 manufacturing exporter respondents, chosen for the study. The analysis of the
opinion has been detailed in Chapter IV on “Implementation and impact of
marketing strategies – An analytical exposition”.
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