DOCUMENT RESUME

ED 241 783 CE 038 588

AUTHOR Sicwaten, Juan B.; Stahl, Diane
TITLE A Complete Handbook on Backyward and Commercial
Rabbit Production m Sa Kalusugan ng Bayan Rabbit Ang
Alagaan. Appropriate Technologies for Development.
Reprint R-41.
INSTITUTION Peace Corps, Washington, DC. Information Collection
and E hange Div.
PUB DATE Sep 2
NOTE 10 .; Published by CARE Philippines. An adaptation
an revision of Commercial Rabbit Raising, U.S.
De t t of Agriculture Handbook No. 309.
PUB TYPE Guides oom Use - Guides (For Teachers) (052)
EDRS PRICE MF01/PCOS Plus Postage.
DESCRIPTORS Agricultural Education; *Agricultural Production;
*Agricultural Skills; Agricultural Supplies;
Agriculture; Animal Behavior; *Animal Facilities;
*Animal Huybandry; Developing Nations; Equipment;
Learning 4idtivities; Marketing; Postsecondary
Education; Program Implementation; Vocational
Education; Voluntary Agencies; Volunteers; Volunteer
Training; Zoology
IDENTIFIERS Philippines; *Rabbits
ABSTRACT
This handbook on rabbit raising, prepared for use by
Peace Corps volunteers, attempts to share information gained by
rabbit raisers in the Philippines along with information gathered
from academic sources. The manual provides step-by-step information
on how to begin and carry out a program of rabbit production. The 15
sections of the guide cover the following topics: selecting a breed
of rabbit, methods of breeding, how to breed, the rabbitry and its
equipment, feeds and feeding, feeding habbits, coprophagy,
reproduction, managing the herd, uses of manure, types of production,
marketing rabbits, simplified tanning, cooking recipes, and a
multiple-project approach to rabbitry. The information is illustrated
with line drawings and photographs. A glossary completes the manual.
(KC)

***********************************************************************
* Reproductions supplied by EDRS are the best that can be made *
* from the original document. *
***********************************************************************
,u

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Peace Corps
 .0

A COMPLETE HANDBOOK ON BACKYARD AND

COMMERCIAL RABBIT PRODUCTION

(Sa Kalusugan ng Bayan

Rabbit Ang Alagaan)

For. the Health of the Nation

Go Into Rabbit Production
by
Rev. Juan B. Sicwaten
and
Ms. Diane Stahl

Editor
Ms. Barbara Sims
Photography
Ms. Diane Stahl

Published by

CARE Philippines

Peace Corps
Information Collection and Exchange
Reprint R-41
September 1982

,
 4

The majority of information found in

this handcook is an adaptation and
revision of COMMERCIAL-RABBIT RAISING
° Agriculture Handbook No. 309,
U.S. Department of Agriculture.
This revision was essential to meet
the special environmental conditions
found only in tropical climates.

Reprinted with permiasioa for Peace ONE*

user ally. Limited numbers of reprints are
available through Peace Corps
Infouretion Collection and Exchange
Office of Progrs Developrent
806 Conn. Ave, 11/8 Phishaington, DC 20526
Septceter 1982

5
.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

LIST OF TABLES iv
LISI OF FIGURES iv
AUTHOR'S INTRODUCTION vi
AUTHOR'S PREFACE ,
viii
SELECTING A BREED 1
lo

METHODS OF BREEDING 2
HOW TO BREED 14
THE RABBITRY AND ITS EQUIPMENT 7
Housing 7
Hutches 7
Feeding Equiptnent 14
Equipment for Watering 17
Nest Boxes 18

FEEDS AND FEEDING 21

FEEDING RABBITS 21
Concentrates 94.
I lome-Mixed Feed 24
Important Note 26
Forages 26

COPROPHAGY 27
a
REPRODUCTION 28
Lactation 28
Factors that Limit Conception 99

MANAGING THE HERD 30

Methods of Handling Rabbi's 30
Determining Pregnanc% 3I
Kindling 33
Care of Young' Litter 33
Causes of Tosses in Newborn Litters 34
Weaning 35
Determining the Sex of Young Rabbits 35
Records 35
Preventing Injuries 40
Sanitation and Disease Control 41)
Fur Eating I labit 49
Preventing Fur Block 49
Gnawing Wooden Parts of the Hutch 49
VARIOUS USES OF MANURE . 50
Disposal of Rabbit Manure .. 50
First Class Compost Fertilizer 50
Methane Generator 51
Construction of Methane Generator 52
Earthworms in the Rabbiuk 54

TYPES OF PRODUCTION 55
Fryer Production 55,
Breeder Production 55
Roaster Production ...) 55
Angora Rabbit Wool Production 56
(;rooming 57 '
Shearing 58
Grading, Preparing. and Marketing Wool 58

MARKETING RABBITS 59
Cutting and Packaging Rabbit Meat 60
Crating and Shipping Live Rabbits 61
How to Assess Sales Prospects 62
'11-re E«momics of Rabbit Production 64

SIMPLIFIED TANNING 65
Slaughtering 65
...--
Curing the Skin 68
Dehairing 68
Actual Tanning 68
Washing and Oiling 69
Oiling Formula 70
Making Charms from Rabbit Paws and Tails 71
Making Artificial Rabbit Tails . 73

COOKING RECIPES 76
Filipino 77
Internat lona! 80

A MULTIPLE PROJECT API ROACH TO RABBITRY 85

GLOSSARY, 92 ._

7 1
 LIST OF TABLES
TABLE PAGE
I SOME COMMON BREEDS OF RABBITS 1

11 NUTRIENT REQUIREMENTS OF RABBITS 22

lit FEEDS FOR FEEDING RABBITS
1V DISEASE:, CAUSES, TREATMENT

LIST OF FIGURES
FIGURE PAGE

I REPRESENTATIVE BREEDS OF MEAT RABBITS 2

2 NATURAL MATING 3
3 RABBIT GESTATION CALENDAR 5
4 LACTATION CALENDAR rOR MEDIUM-SIZED B141ED
-5 RABBIT SUCKLING CALENDAR 6
6 RABBIT BREEDER REPLACEMENT CALENDAR 7
7 DESIGN FOR 2-CAGE Ali. WIRE: QUONSET HUTCH 8
8 WOOD FRAME WIRE HUTCH WITH WIRE ATTACHED
INSIDE: WOOL) FRAME 10
9 DESIGN FOR WOOD FRAME WIRE HUTCH 11
4
10 DESIGN FOR FEED HOPPER MADE FROM 5-GALLON CAN 16
ENAMEL CUP FOR WATER WIRED TO CAGE TO
PREVENT SPILLAGE 17
12 Si ANDARD NEST BOX WITH BLOCK OF WOOD
PLACED A'F FRONT FOR 'TILTING 20
13 DESIGN FOR STANDARD NEST BOX
14 CULTIVATED FORAGES 26
11FTING SMALL. RABBITS BY LOIN REGION 30
16 HANDLING NIATURE RABBITS 31
17 RESTRAINING DOE FOR PALPATING 32
18 SEXING A DOE 36
N PRODUCTION RECORD
`HL"1 CH 'CARD .Al) 37
20 BUCK BREEDING RECORD 38
21 ANNUAL PI ODUCTION OR INVENTORY RECORD 39
92 DESIGN FOR RF.STRA1N1NG A RABBIT FOR TATTOOING
93 MALI HY CHINCHILLA AND DISEASE STRICKEN
NEW ZEALAND WHITE 11
2-1 DIRTY CAGES RESULT IN DISEASES -18
"5 COMPOST HEAP NEAR RABBITRY
96
9-
DEsiGN FOR COMPOST
DESIGN FOR ME FLANE GAS GENEIthoR .

8
FIGURE PAGE

28 ANGORA RABBIT 57
29 A & B INEXPENSIVE METHOD OF PACKAGING MEAT 60
30 COMMON CUTS OF RABBIT MEAT 61
31 TRANSPORTING LIVE RABBITS 62
32-36 SLAUGHTERING 66
37 SALTING 68
38 DEFLESH 1 NG 69
39 °HANG SKINS 70
40 DRYING SKINS ON U-SHAPED FRAME 70
41 BUFFING 71
42 MAKING HOOK FROM COPPER WIRE 72
43 WITH HOMEMADE HAND DRILL MAKE HOLE IN BONE 79
4.1 SPOON GLUE INTO HOLE WITH POINTED sTicK 72
45 INSERT HOOK 72
-46 SMOOTH MOUND OF-GLUE WITH WET c1NCER 72
47 PLACE IN RACK TO DRY 72
48 .ATTACH KEY CHAIN 73
49 ROLL PIECE OF PAPER AROUND STICK FRAME
TO MEASURE SIZE OF PATIT.RN 73
50 (DRAWING) MAKE LENGTH OF PATTERN 73
51 LAY PATTERN ON INSIDE OF PELT AM) TRACE 74
39 TRACE AGAIN ON PE1J WITH RULER AND PEN 74
53 (DRAWING) CUT HIDE ALONG EDGE THAT WILL
BE THE TOP 74
54 CUT PELT WITH A SINGLE EDGE RAZOR 74
5 SMOOTH A 'THIN LAYER OF GI CE ONTO THE PELT 7-i
56 SMOOTH A THIN LAYER OF GLUE ONTO THE FRAME 74
57 LEP THE 'MO SURFACES DRY 75
58 PLACE STICK ON FRAME CAREFULLY 75
59 ROLL PELT ONTO FRAME 75
60 OVERLAPPING PELT ON FRAME 75
61 USING 1/2.- EXCESS 75
62 USING POINTED STICK. APPLY GLUE TO TOP OF TAU 75
63 swam ROUGH SPOTS WITH WEE FINGER 75
64 MAKE HOOK FROM COPPER WIRE 76
65 PUT FINISHED TAU. IN RACK To DRY' 76
66 BAIL. CHAIN 76
67 MULTIPLE USE OF RABBITS AND BY-PRODUCIS 89
68 SELF-1.1QUIDATING YOUR RABBITRY PROJECI-
THRU RI...CYCLING 90
69 INTEGRATED RABBITRY PROJE( :T 91

9
 ..
,

r---\ `AUTHOR'S INTROQUCTION

1

In ihe Bible, (.;enesis 1: 26-30 we are told how God created man
(Adam) in His own image, and told him to multiply his own kincl...God
also instructed man to have dominion over His other creations. Since
then. man midi iplied by the millions, causing a population explosion,
while his abilit to produce focl fin- himself and those millions lagged
far behind. .

Thus, koday statisticians tell its that nearly half of t.he workf's
population goes hungry daily, U1(1 more than half of the world's total
are titqlernourished. On top of this. there are millions being .born
each %Tar to be added to the world's total. The future looks grim, btu
not hopeless. .;

There are solutions to population explosions:

I. Control popttlati,.m growth through Family Planning.
2. Increase fOod production and land areas wider cultivation.
Food production (the concern of this handbook), involves not only
the cult ivat in g of rice and (mil which are the basic staples, but also the
production of fOo(1 stuffs rich in protein t,) keepus healthy and
resistant to disease. We all need a balanced i kt --7. Meat is one good
source of protein, but the meat supply (i.e., cost) today is often
beN(iml the reach of the common man.
As a remedial measure, we should find titNi raise ay militia' which is
not only rich in protein, but also has the capacity to multiply fast, if
not even faster than than. 'That :tnitnal is the RABBIT! Rabbits are
easy to raise and can be produced by all strata of (iur society.
Under good management and using modern farming techniques,
one mother rabbit can give birth to 20-33 bunnies or 45 kilos of e
dressed meat a year. hi addition, we can salvage the fur, paws,.and
tails from %%nch novelty items can he made. The manure is another
peso earner. Rabbit manure.is far superior to other manure as proven
b. those w Ito experimented with the performance of various kinds of
manure on plants and trees. Rabbit manure could be utilized to even
make methane gas. Labor-wise, it takes only 10 minutes daily or 15
hours a Years to care for two does mid their ..oung. -1.here definitely is
an excellent prospect in rabbit raising. .

importation of new breeds of rabbits from the U.S.A. was tinder.;

taken by some rabbit raisers such as Dr. Lasaro P. Ricaliwt of Baguio
Gift and Mr. Dick Fagan of Rural Life Center, Dasmarinas, Cavite, to
improve the -iiative- rabbit. Since this importation, upgrading of
rabbits had taken place in many areas, so today there are quality
breeding stocks available.
For some time now, urban and rural people have been interested in
rabbit raising. However, their main problem was and still is how to

10
"--

...
obtain the technical know-how of rabbit raising and marketing, since
rabbit raising in the Philippines is quite new to many people.
Previous bOoks and' pamphlets written on rabbit production were
either written stateside or by people who were not rabbit raisers
themselves, so their ideas were quite academic and beyond ordinary,
farmers. This handbook on rabbit raising, on.the other hanktries to
adopt stateside information to local situations and .attempts to share
the many experiences and knowledge gained by rabbit raisers in the
Philippines. We have kept no secret success factor to ourselves! Care
has also been taken to include the many suggestions and experiences
gathered from participants in several seminars on rabbit raising.
Furtherinore, conflicting opinions have been reconciled to clear away
many doubts and/or questions to those "doubting Th.)rnases."
Rev. juln. B. Sicwaten
F armerPriest
. Km. 3, Asin Rd.
Baguio City

ft.

ii
sil
 AUTHOR'S PREFACE
Sa kalusugan ng bayan, rabbit ang alagaan..For the health of the
nation, go into rabbit production.
Utilizing RABBIT, as an alternative protein source and its BY-
PRODUCTS as an income-generating activity, has been the cam-
paign of dedicated rabbit raisers for many years. We have seen many
backyard, commercial, and nutrition education rabbit production
projects succeed and fail, although, successes have so far surpassed
the failures. From observation and evaluation .of these past and
on-going ventures, the following criteria are offered as guidelines to
insure sticcess in YOUR project.
1. A true and sincere dedication to t he IDEA of rabbits as food for
your family, neighbors, and for the general population.
2. A willing spirit to help and cooperate with your neighbor in his
rabbit production project. If you are planning a backyard rabbitry
and you cannot supply a market on VOW' OW11, you MUST coordinate
and cooperate with those around you. In this case, the net result of
greed (profit for one self only) is eventual failure.
3. A STRICT program of sanitation and disease control. The only
excuse for a dirty cage is laziness. If you cannot afford the time to
clean your cages, feed and water containers EVERYDAY. DO'NOT
(;O INTO RABBIT PRODUCTION. The majority of' failures are
due to the lack of proper sanitation.
4. Ilvou cannot afford commercial feed, a balanced diet consisting
°la variety of ALL types of fOrages will serve' if tlLs :neat is only for
local consumption. If you plan to market your rabo;t professionally.
then it is a MUST fOr commercial feeds to be given daily. If you do not
pay careful attention to diet. your production will decrease and your
breeding stock will degenerate. Plant your Creen Revthuion garden
with a variety of legumes and root crops and cultivate an area fbr
those recommended grasses BEFORE you begin your project.
5. To make any kind of profit, VOU must engage in tanning. You
catitiot make a substantial profit front meat alone-unless you have the
markets in Nlanila "cornered-.
6. If %oil are to succeed in rabbit productico, you must FIRST.
DEVELOP*A N1ARKFT WITHIN YOUR OWN LOCALITY. If you
choose to enter this growing field, von !mist he willing to propagate
the idea of rabbits is food to Your neighbors and relatives. You will be
a teacher, a chang,-.. agent, a Community developer, and you will tritely
be a pioneer!
Good Luck to You. All!
Diane Stahl
U.S Peace Corps

12
 SELECTING A BREED
1. Whether von raise rabbits for meat and fur, wool, or laboratory
uses, select the breeds best adapted to the purpose.
2. Table I below list st he common rabbit breeds, their predominant
color, weight and uses.
3. The mediutn and large breeds such as the New Zealand, Califor-
nia; Dutch Gres., English Spot, Chinchilla, and Flemish Giant lave
the most suitable size and conformation for producing meat and fur.
White breeds of rabbits (e.g.New Zealand White and Californian, Fig.
1), are the most prolific and the most desirable for commercial and
fur production because white skins usually bring higher prices. Pref-
erence among the white breeds is largely a matter of personal choice.
Skins are a by-product of the meat production.
TABLE I
SOME COMMON BREEDS OF RABBITS
Approximate
Principal
Breed Color Mature
Uses
Weight
KILOS
American
Chinchilla Resembles the true Chinchilla 51/2-6 Meat and fur

Calibirnian While both; colored nose.'ears, 3 11/2-5 Meal and fur

leo, and tail.
Black, blue, chocolate, tortoise. 1 1/2__.) i, I.aborator
Dutch
steel gre%. anti gre; white sad-
die, or band over the shouldeo
caviling down under the neck
and over the front legs and hind
feel.
English Spot Basic body color while: colors of s>1/2: ! 2 1,abOraIOEV
spots: black, blue chocolate. tor- and meat
toise. steel grIn, lilac. and gray;
nose. ears and e%e circles and
check spots; spine snipe from
base of ears to cud of tail; side
spots from base of ears to middle
of hind quarter.
Flemish Giant Steel gran. light gray. sand% , ti Meat
black, blue. white and lawn. No
two colors allowed on solids.
New Zealand While, red. or black 4-51/2 Meat, fur and
a Laboralor

13
 If you raise rabbits for laboratory purposes, check with nearby
hospitals, laboratories, and city health offices to find out the type, age,
and size of animal desired.
With sufficient feeding, mature animals (4 1/2-5 months old) of the
smaller breeds should weight 1. 1/3 kilos to 13/4 kilcis each; those of the
medium breeds, 4 kilos to 51/2 kilos; and those of the larger breeds, 6
1/3 kilos to 7 1/5 kilos. There are 28 different breeds, and approxi-
mately 77 varieties that vary in type, color, and size.

FIGURE 1Representative breeds of meat rabbits.i.elt , New Zealand White; (:enter,

Chinchilla; Right ,(:alifornian.

SELECTING FOUNDATION STOCK

Selection of prime stock is the initial and most basic step toward
sttaiss or failure of a rabbit operation. Naturally, an animal's ap-
pearance will play' a maimr factor in the process of selection. Other
essential requirements are health, vigor. longevity, ability to repro-
duce. and desirable type and conformation. But, overall, the primary.
CEIICI.1011 the rabbits records. It is vitally important to study
records on famik production, hereditary factors, size of anittus,
growth potential, etc. TherefOre, purchase Your fbundation stock
front a reliable and established rabbitry Mat keeps such records.

METHODS OF BREEDING
contrail (0 popular belief, rabbits do have a heat period. The
following are signs of heat for a nlattn e doe:
1. Reddening and swelling of the vulva.
2. Sudden decrease in feed consumption.
O

14
 3. Rubbing of chin on side 'of hutch.
4. Riding on one another if in colony type of cage.
5. Restlessness; trying to gain entrance to neighboring cages and
violently spilling water bowl or cup.
6. Occasionally the doe will ride the buck when service is a (tempted.
There are four methods of breeding: natural mating. forced mat-
ing, confined Illatitig, alld artificial insemination.
NATURAL MATING is the best method. When ready for breed-
ing, females will show reddening of the vulva. Deep red coloration
indicates the female will usually accept the male and conception
should occur about 75 per cent of the time. Females may be rebred
after their litter is 45 days old allowing a short rest period after
weaning. Females in season should he introduced to the males cage.
(Fig. 2) If acceptance does not occur within a few minutes, remove the
doe and attempt to breed again in the late afternoon or the following
morning. This timing method gives the highest conception rate- up to
90 per cent or more.
jimm11=MIIM

MIME 2Natural mating gives the highest conception rateup to 907( or more it
doe shows .;igits of heat.

FORCF.D NI ATI NC; is the most time consult' hg in man hours and
labor. 'Phis method requires that eligible females who do not im-
mediately accept the buck he restrainedled by a caretaker so the buck can
mate. Conception rate by this method will also reach 90 per ilt he
doe is in heat but, if t here arc few signs of heat. the conception rate
may be as low as 20 per cent.
CONFINED MATING for anyWhere from several tti 24 hours 'or
days is hazardous to the physical well-being of he animals date to (heir
3

15
insistent fighting. Lack of knowledge on the part of the caretaker as to
when or if conception occurred is also a disadvantage. Thus, it is
impossible for the caretaker to prepare the doe for kindling and loss
of young is frequent.
ARTIFICIAL INSEMINATIONSemen is collected from males
and introduced to females by artificial means. This techniques re-
quires experience for good success. At the present time, artificial
insemination is not commonly used in rabbit production but may
become the preferred method for commercial breeding operations in
the future.
HOW TO BREED
1. Breed does first at 5%z months of age for small breeds and 6
months of Mtge for medium size.
2. Use mature bucks at 6 months of age.
3. Breed in the early morning or late id-lei-noon.
4. Take doe to buck's cage for service, leave for repeated service up
to 10 minutes; return doe to her cage. If doe fights buck, she may be
restrained by caretaker for service.
5. If buck fails to serve doe in minimum time, switch doe to another
buck.
6. Doe ovulates about 8 hours after first service. Some producers
take doe back for second service at this time. This doubles breeding
time but the avei-ag.conception percentage is not improved greatly.
7. Palpate doe or observe pregnancy signs 10-14 days after breed-
ing to see if doe is pregnant. Rebreed does that have not conceived.
8. Breed all does that show signs of heat at least one or two days a
week. ,
9. When breeding daily. use bucks every other (by. When breeding
weekly, bucks may service once in the morMng and once in the late
afternoon on the breeding day. To keep a good buck for a long
period of time use him only three times a week. (Do not let rabbit f
becatue_o_vesweight.Sheihe will not service as well then.)
I ft Keep one buck to every 10 does. Active, high-producing bucks
with good replacements coming will solve most breeding problems.
11. Normal gestation period for rabbits is front 28 to 32 days with
an average of 30.
12. Rebreed doe when litter is 45 days old then rebreeding again
afiCr 14 days if the doe is in good health. ..------
13. Replace does that produce less than 5 healthy babies, two litters
its a row.
14. Replace buck when his record reveals low production. or his
offspring show poor feed conversion or p0 rate of weight gain.
4
16
 15. Save replacement stock for expansion as needed to keep cages
filled with working does and active bucks. Constantly improve herd
by strict culling of low producers. .

16. Average production life of good does is about two to three years
hut, save good producing does as long as production warrants.
17. Average production life of good bucks is from 1 'year to 51/2
yet trs.
IS. Save di least one young replacement doe and buck per month
for each 12 working does at the end of the second or third year when
replacement is needed. This replacement rate generally will not cover
both culling and mortality. Replenish stock as needed.
19. Purchase good bucks occasionally to prevent extreme in breed-
ing from established and reliable farms.
The following figures summarize the information a good manager
needs for breeding operations.

1.14:111E. 3
RABBIT GEST:1'110N CALENDAR

10-1.1 DM'S 213 DAYS 2S-32 DAYS

likEE1)
OBSERVE. PUT
DOE
l'RECN. NES1 BOX IN
512 N1ON 1 HS CA(4:
SiCNS
OF ACE

(;1'E 120 (;MS. C()NINIER( :I..11. FEED/1)AV

l'I.N't V OF FRESH, CI.EAN WATER

17
 FIGURE 4
RABBIT LACTATION CALENDAR FOR MED1UM-S1ZED BREF.DS

10 DAYS 3 WEEKS

DOE KINDLES YOUNG

DISINFECT
CULL BABIES CAGE FLOORS START
TO 8 BEFORE BABIES coMING
FOSTER EXTRAS COME OUT OF OUT OF
TO OTHER BOX NEST
DOES BOX

2 x DAY
41 GIVE 120 GMS. COMMERCIAL FEED/DAY

4 PLENTY FRESH. CLEAN WM ER

INSPECT NEST BOXES EACH DAY

FIGURE 5
RABBIT SUCKLING CALENDAR*

3 weeks 4 weeks 8 weeks 12 weeks 14-16 weeks

YOUNG EAT OR
COME OUT WEAN REBREED ( SELL
OF LITTER DOES FRYERS
NF.ST BOX TAN SKINS

Total
DAILY 120 gins 240 gins 480 gets 960 gins 960 gets Constinipt
MONTHLY 3M K 7.2 Kilos 14:4 Kilos 28.8 K 28.8 K 82.8K

PLENTY OF FRESH, CLEAN WA'T'ER EVERY DAY

*NOTE: This includes Doe's ration up to weaning or 8 weeks. After

weaning she continues with 120 gins daily feed ration.
6
18
 ...

, FIGURE 6
RABBIT BREEDER REPLACEMENT CALENDAR*

8 or 9 wks 51/2-6 mos. 6 mos.

BUCKS
REAM' TO
NN

4 PLENTY OF FRESH, CLEAN WATER

*NOTE; For second or third year of operation.

THE RABBITRY AND ITS EQUIPMENT

Housing
L Any building whether expensive or inexpensive can shelter
rabbit hutches as long as it protects the rabbits from predators, wind
and rain, and in addition a house should provide plenty of light and
ventilation.
2. As much as possible, use locally available materials to cut down
on cost. Bamboo is an excellent material for lowland construction.'
3. A good rabbit house, though, should be located in an area where
both the caretaker and the rabbits feel comfortable.
Hutches
The type of hutch and equipment for any rabbitry will depend on
where the rabbitry is to be located, climate and the amount of money
to be invested.
Before starting to build your hutches, the construction and equip-
ment should be designed to minimize labor needed in caring for the
herd. Furthermore a 'neat design and convenient arrangement
should be considered to insure the best working environment.
Many types of hutches are in use and no one design is entirely
7
19
 suitable for all purposes or all c rnditions. Basically, hutches should be
well ventilated and should provide maximum comfort for the rabbits IP

by giving adequate protection frorr all kinds of weather and pred-

ators. The animals must be protected from typhoon, winds and hot
strn and they must be kept dry. .

In order to save on expenses, materials around your own home

should be used whenever possible. Scrap lumber and bamboo are
good building materials. Chicken wire of different sizes are also used
in the construction of many hutches today but, depreciation is ex-
tremely high. .

Provide individual cages for mature rabbits. The cages should be

no more than .762 mm deep so you caeasily reach the rabbits, and
.609 mm high. Make the cages .9144 mm long for small breeds, 1.219
O..
m for medium-size breeds, and 1.219 m to 1.828 m for giant breeds
(All figures are for inside measurements). Whether y9u arrange the
hutches in single, double, or triple tiers depends upon how much
room is available. If you have enough room, waist-high, single-tier
hutches are preferable as they are most convenient for observing the
rabbits and will also save time and labor in feeding and management.
The inconvenience of squatting or stooping to feed and care for
rabbits in the bottom tier and of having to use a stool or ladder for the
top row of a three-tier arrangement results in additional labor and
time as corn pared to a single-tier arrangement. And worst of all, good
sanitation is sacrificed in the long run.
Wire Metal Hutches --A combination two-compartment all-wire
hutch is labor-saving and simply designed but more expensive to
build. However, an all-wire, quonset-shaped hutch has several advan-
tages. h is easy to clean, neat in appearance, and requires less wire
than a standard rectangle hutch (see Figure 7).
FIGURE 7
2-CAGE, AU. WIRE QUONSEI" 111-11:1-1
1'01' VIEW
tiff'

30- I5-
. MI

8
20
 SIDE VIEW

Wooden Support

Root.

..\*
.."../0"Ip
toirfoprip
%tett%
411Pip
WOO,
/04.4, )i
%

4S0
Waist high

14°A

LJ
NEEDED MATERIALS
alb

STEEL BAR (Roun(1) 5/16 I)IAM. x 21E-1

WELDED MIRE #16 x x 3-1 x
WIRE #16
. 1/5

NOTE:
This %Ric hutch must be hung inside the building where ii will he placed.
From this.slsetch, %tat can make more improvements and add more cages.

21
 The quonset style hutch features a door that opens up over the top.
Then, when open, the door does not occupy aisle space or interfere
with feeding and cleaning operations. In addition, when this type of
hutch is single-tiered at waist height, you can reach all the corners
without placing your head and shoulders inside the door opening.
Quonset-shaped hutches can be adapted to fit any type of rabbitry
where hutches are housed. They are most easily constructed in 2
hutch units.
Wood-Frame and Wire HutchesIn the Philippines, the most
economically constructed rabbit hutch is a combination of wood and
wire. The skeleton is wood and the flooring, sides, and top are all
welded wire to insure sanitation. The wood frame is an external
skeleton while theelded wire is attached inside (Fig. 8). The positive

.
-
. it : 10,144
-"4-4.1orn.
FIGURE 8Wood frame hutch with galvanized wire placed inside wood frame.
characteristics of this type of hutch are its durability and excellent
ventilation and sanitation.. (Fig. 9 )
Hutches may be supported in several ways. If you use corner posts,
make them long enough (about 1.067 m high) so that you can clean
underneath and do other work around the hutch. Cement blocks
beneath the corner posts will increase the longevity of the wood. In
areas where ants pose a problem, a depression cut into the blocks can
:serve as containers for any locally available insect repellent or a gas
and oil mixture. YOu can support a hutch by resting it on a crosspiece
nailed between the studs that support the shed, or you can hang it
from the rafters or ceiling of the shed with heavy wire or light lumber.
Bamboo HutchBamboo is one of the most economical of all
hutches materials when used with a nipa or cogon grass roof. The
design is the same as for the wooden frame-wire hutch. For the sides
and flooring, use 25 mm wide bamboo slats spaced 16 mm or 19 mm
apart. Place the rounded portion of the bamboo slats facing the inside
of the cage to eliminate gnawing by the rabbit. To prevent strangula-
tion or breakage of the rabbit's feet, use straight bamboo for the
flooring.

10

22
 FIGURE 9
WOOD FRAME AND WIRE HUTCH
DOUBLE FACE

TOP
'Pr

I-x2" mesh
FEED RACK

I 2"

96"
6 I 6" -il 16" --4-1

omvilk
1
48"

111111111 MEMO
11112
MHO tMI
MO
11
., Immo
4" 11111 IMMIII11111111

=
t".1'II

CAN OR
Cement Block -4
FRONT-REAR VIEW

11

23
 ..,

FIGURE 9
WOOD FRAME AND WIRk I IUTCH
DOUBLE FACE

4,

NEP:1= 20"

..........
_.iiiiiiiiii111111111111112ir G.I. SHEFI'S=8"

ROOFING
(Front)

11WI
MelliMIIMEMI
MUMMA I EN
11MOM111

/
11M11 11
11M111 11
IIIIIIIMMIHMEN11111
*MINIM iIIIIII I
I

2_ L-3
SIDE

12
24
i
I

BILL OF MATERIALS FOR RECTANGULAR WOOD

AND WIRE HUTCH

SKIS LUMBERFor Framing

2" x 0' x'6' ---2 pcs.
9" X 9" 8' 6 pcs.
1" 2" x 8' 10 pcs. i

WELDED WIRE-016
4' x 8' :/4" x 3/4"
(Double 1" x 1" to make. :Yr")
-1' x 3' I" x 2"
4.-x 24' -- 1" x 1"

COMNION NAILS
01 1/2-1:1.
00 I-kl.
021/2 1/4-kl,
HINGES 2" 8 pcs,

ROOFING
S4S LUMBER
I" x 9 x 12' 4 pcs.

* FOR NIPA
NIPA 3'I. = 120 pcs.
BAMBOO 5'L (med.) 2 pcs.
S. RATTAN 20 pcs.
PLAIN G.I. SHEET 12" \ 6'

*FOR G.I. SHEETS

G.I. SHEET 32' x 6' 6pcs,
ROOFING NAILS 2" 1 KI.

13
 Hutch FloorsSeveral types of floors are used in hutches, and
each has its particular merit.
Wire mesh floors are used extensively where a self-cleaning type is
desired. They are a necessity in commercial herds, where it would be
impossible to provide enough labor to keep solid floors in a sanitary
conditions. In installing; this type of floor, examine the wire for sharp
points which result sometimes from the galvanizing process. Paint the'
galvanized wire with iron paint to lessen depreciation. Always put the
smooth surface on top. Though solid floors in the long run pose
problems with sanitation, this can be minimized if the floors are
sloped slightly liaCkwards to provide proper drainage. You can ute
hardwood or bamboo slats.as flooring also. A Combination of solid
floor at the front part of the hutch and a strip of mesh wire or slats at
the back may be used.
When using an all -wire mesh floor, it is advisable to plate a resting
board made of plywood inside the cage 'to eliminate sore hocks. The
dimensions would be determined by the size of the animal; i.e., large
enough for rabbit to rest comfortably.
Feeding Equipment
It is -desirable to use feed crocks, troughs, hoppers, and grass
mangers that are large enough to hold several feedings to save time
in filling. Use a type that will prevent waste and contamination of
the feed, . .

Crocks. Crocks especially designed for rabbit feeding, (about 6

inches wide and 3 inches tall) which are not easily tipped over, have a
concave lip that prevents the animals from scratching out' nd wasting
their feed. The chief objection to these is that the young rabbits get
into them at id contaminate the feed. Earthenware and ceramics are
the best suited niaterialS. -

Bamboo Troughs--can also be utilized for commercial feeds. To

form, a concave container, 1/3 of the side should be cut away between
the two nodes. To prevent the container from tipping, attach it to the
side or floor of the cage with wire.
Grass Mangersare either U or V-shaped and made of mesh wire
1" x 2- gauge 16. The 2'inch is placed horizontally while the l'inch is
verticle to allow the rabbits easy access to the grass by pulling. Ideally,
grass mangers are usually constructed between two cages to save
space and labor but they can also be placed at the front or side of the
cage although it is more cumbersome for the aniftial and the
caretaker. .

Hoppers(See Fig. 10) Feed hoppers of the proper design and

size save considerable time and labor. These can be constructed from

14
26 ,
0
I
1.-
 metal, wood, ceramics, or other readily available materials. They,
should hold at least several days supply of feed and be placed within
i the hutch or suspended- on..the outside of it. The opening through
which the rabbits obtain feed should be not more than .10 m above
the hutch floor so that young rabbits carireadily eat. This is especially
suited for complete rabbit feed pellets. An expensive feed hopper
that will hold about 15 pounds ofpellets or home mixed feeds can be.,
made from -a common square 5-gallon can or can be constructed
using plywood, lawanit'or ceramics. Using the 5-gallon can first cut
off the top. Then cut holes in two opposite sides. If the hopper is to be
hung on the side of the hutch, cut a hole on one side only. The holes
should be 110 m high, 110 m from the bottom, and .025 m from each
side. Bend the rough edges inward to give a smooth edge all around
and to add rigidity. Take a .025 m x .10 WI x .34 m board and cut it
diagonally into two equal triangular pieces. Use ese as supports to
the baffle boards which are nailed to them. ,
The baffle boards, of .0125 rri plywood, should extend .025 m
below the bottom of the side openings of thescan. The space between
the lower ends of the baffle boards permits the pellets to Pow clown as
the rabbits eat. Cut the baffle boards to it snugly against. the insides of :
the can so feed cannot slip by. Mount the top corners of the baffles so
that each baffle will rest against the -top edge of the can.
Cover the exposed edges of boards with tin to prevent gnawing. Put
a finishing nail in the outer edge of the triangular piece supporting
the baffle, and bend the nail to hook over the lower lip of the opening
to hold it and the baffle in place.
You can save hutch floor space by using a hopper with a feed
opening on one side only and by placing the hopper only part way
into the hutch. Cut an opening large enough to accommodate the
hopper in the side of the hutch. Then wire the top of the hopper to
the hutch for support-. One short baffle on the inside opposite the'
hopper opening will keep feed out of the rear corners.
A one-compartment feed hopper is used when only one kind of
feed is given. When mixed feed that the rabbits can separate is
offered in the hopper, the feed will be selectively consumed. The
rabbits scratch out and waste the part they prefer not to eat.,You can
prevent this waste by using a hopper with a concave mouth and
individual feed compartments.
Caution must be taken to insure that no moisture enters the can
during rain showers. If moisture does enter, mold may develop.. e
When this moldy feed is ingested by the rabbit, it causes the build-up
of fluids and gas which the rabbit is unable to expel. Bloat and death
of the animal will result.
, 15

27
 FIGURE 10
DESIGNS FOR FEED HOPPER MADE FROM 5-GALLON CAN

5 Callon Can
METAL - BOARD Cover

4-

Front 8: Rear 2 Sides

Nail

Nail

10
110.1-

Metal
from 11- 3 Ph or
Feeder
other light
material
Opening
1.
1 1- x
I Oct BOA RI)
Nail CUT
MAC:ON/U.1N
H 9 Vi
Baffle
Is 4 --.1
Baffle

16
28
 A common ntishap to be aware of with litters is when the uneaten
portion of feed is spoiled by urination of and fecal excretion by the
bunnies who climb into feed hoppers.
Pe Ileted rabbit feed contains salt which will eventually corrode the
metal can. llmash is used, a higher rate of corrosion will insue due to
the minute particles clinging to the sides of the can. To reduce
rusting by coating the can with iron paint is a practical but expensive
solution.

Equipment for Watering

conirary to popular belief and practice, rabbits do need ,clean,
fresh water at all times. During hot weather, a doe and her litter of 6
or 8 will consume about 2 litters of water a day. Here are suggested
water containers:
Crocks: inexpensive and yet sanitary, earthenware crocks are used
quite extensively in the rabbitry.
Enamel Cups: the most sanitary and easier to clean than the crock
style. They may be tic(' to the side of the cage: to prevent spillage by

i
the rabbit. (Fig. 11)
Ceramic Crocks: also recom-
1111111111 mended if they are within a
reasonable price range.
Bamboo Troughs: practical
L44'
due to their availability but pose a
'N.
problem due to their susceptibil-
.rolkr

4
ity to algae formation.
A Atli:
Cans: sometimes utilized but,
Tie again, problems arise when rab-
bits eat the rust formed on the
can. Thus their use is not war-
ranted. However, I liter-sized
e plastic oil can, can he cleaned and
cut fiw both water and/or feed
containers. Theseean be attached
to the cage with wire to prevent
spilling.
Automatic Watering: auto-
matic watering systems are widely
FteguRE 11 )name) cup (Or water wircd
to (law to prcvettt
used in commercial rabbitries in
the States. Though they are very
expensive to install, they could easily he adapted to commercial rab-
bitries in the Philippines.
Automatic watering systems are better than the conventional type
17
4
. 4

of containers. They eliminate the tedious and time consuming chore

of washing, disenfecting, rinsing, and filling. They supply fresh,
clean water for the rabbits at all times. When an automatic watering
system is properly installed, dirt and fur will not collect in it and plug
it up.
While there are many positive aspects to automatic watering sys-
tems, the negative must also be considered. It takes time to train
rabbits in using this system. In the beginning, water consumption
may decrease to a level where production may be drastically affected.
If the drinking valves are not properly installed and maintained,,
water leakage and dripping may eventually corrode the wire mesh.
Nest Boxes
When a doe is ready to kindle a nest box is placed in the cage for her
to give birth in. This is a carry-over from habit of wild rabbits who
kindled inside trees or holes in the ground.
No one type of nest box is best suited for all conditions, but all
should provide seclusion for the doe at kindling and also comfort and
protection for the young. Nest boxes should be large enough to
prevent crowding while small enough to keep the young together. All
types should provide good drainage and proper ventilation.
Counterset Nest Box: A type of nest box used in the U.S. is the
counterset type, where the box is recessed below the hutch floor.
These may be placed at the front of the cage and fitted like drawers
for access from the exterior of the hutch. They have the,advantages
of providing a more natural environment, since rabbits are burrow-
ing animals, and of allowing the young easier access if they should be
displaced from the nest at an early age. The young can jump out of
the standard type nest box, but they often cannot jump or climb back
in. When the litter becomes divided, this means that some of the
young may go hungry. The doe usually nurses her young at night or
in the early evening and morning hours.. If the litter is divided, the
doe will either nurse the young in the nest or those on the hutch floor.
She, will not nurse both groups, nor will she pick up the young and
return them to the nest.
1
.

The counterset nest box is easy to keep clean because the inner
drawer can be slipped out for washing and disinfecting. These draw-
ers also can be interchanged from one hutch to another. When the
young no longer need the inner drawer it can be left out to provide
more space in the hutch.

$
.
18
30
 BILL OF MATERIALS FOR NEST BOX AND DRAWER
o

Nest box: .

Sides.Two pieces of lumber, .025 x .30 x ..427.

End.One piece of lumber, .025 x .20 x .31.
Door. One piece of lumber, .025 x .30 x .31.
Cover.One piece of .003 x 30 x .31 hardboard
Bottom.One piece of 16 gauge galvanized wire, ..025 x .0125
mesh, .30 x .45.

Nest drawer:
Sides.Two pieces of .003 inch hardboard (tempered), .184 x
.43.
EndsTwo pieces of lumber, .025 x .20 x.25.
Bottom.One piece of Vs inch hardboard (tempered), .216 x
.43.

Miscellaneous:
Nails:Use .025 or .05 nails to fasten the end, top and sides of
the nest box, .05 to fasten the nest drawer, and .031 roofing nails
(large head) to fasten the wire bottom to the nest box.
Protecting strips.To prevent chewing and splintering, nail
26-gauge galvanized sheet metal, bent to form a .0125 x .016
angle, to the exposed edges of the nest box and drawer.
Hinges.Two .025 strap hinges for the door.

In shaping the sides of the nest box for the slanted roof, you can use
the piece of lumber cut from the rear of each side to build up the
front. The completed sides should be .4125 long, and should slant
down from .2064 tall at the rear.
Suspend the completed nest box in the hutch by the cradle of No.
12 wire at the rear and the three remaining strands C:Thutch flooring
in the front. The cradle of No. 12 wire can be made in three sections
to fit down each side of the box and under the bottom, or in one long
piece. In either case the wire cradle is merely hooked onto the hutch
flooring next to the next box on one side, passed down and across
beneath the box and up the other side to again hook on the hutch
floor. This provides adequate support for the rear of the nest box.
Slip the three strands of flooring into notches cut into the front end of
the nest box just above the door.
'1'o prevent the nest box from slipping to the rear and losing the
support of the floor wire at the front end, the side boards of the nest
box can be cut so as to extend a little above the back board of the nest

19
32 .1.
box. Then as the back board comes up under the hutch floor, these
side boards project a little above the floor and prevent the nest from
being pushed to the rear.
To help keep the nest dry, cut some .006 drain holes spaced .05
apart on the bottom of the nest-box drawer.
Standard Nest Box: It is a characteristic of most does to choose a
corner in which to kindle her young, therefore, the standard nest box
is the most practical because of its mobility. Some signs exhibited by
the doe to display which corner she prefers for kindling are scratch-
ing and gathering grasses or newspaper there to serve as nest-
ing materials.
The nesting materials could be of local sources such as trimmings
of clothing or soft grasses but shredded newspaper is the most ideal
since it is free from mites and other insects, the usual causes of ear
canker and skin mange.
Place the nest box in that area where the signs are observed 25 days
after breeding or a week before kindling to allow her to prepare for
actual kindling.
The box must be tilted at the front with a _05 x .05 block of woocl so
the doe kindles her litter at the rear of the nest box where they are
protected from possible injury when she enters or exits during nurs-
ing(Fig. 12).
After each use by the doe and
her litter (30 clays after kindling)
clean, wash, and disinfect the nest
1
box. If commercial disinfectants
.
are not available, use a boiled so-
Anion of one kerosene can of
water to one small cup of salt .

pouring it while it is hot into the

nest box and drying it in the hot
sun. Burning cogon grass or
newspaper inside the nest box
will suffice in sanitizing it for use.
4
rOa; :::4 For an inexpensive nest box
use the ready-made fish box
;_1..67 found in the market which is .55
7;4
long, .25 high, and .35 wide. It
4rt I can be easily adapted by follow-
FIGURE 12 Standard nest box. ing the design of the standard
nest box. Again, to help keep the
nest dry, cut 1.006 drain holes spaced .05 apart in the bottom of
the nest box.

32
 FIGURE 13
STANDARD NEST BOX

DOOR DOOR BLOCKER

I
2" by 2"
BLOCK OF

I .1111.18". 4-- WOOD FOR

TILTING
(removable)

20--22"

FEEDS AND FEEDING. .

Success in rabbit production is impossible if you do not give enough

attention to diet and provide wholesome feeds in adequate quantity
every day..
Feed is one of the major expenses and each herd presents an
individual problem. Select diets that are suited to the needs of your
rabbits, whether you buy commercially prepared mixtures and/or
pellets, or mix feeds yourself. .

FEEDING RABBITS
41,
As with any animal, the way you feed a rabbit depends on what you
want to do with it and oil what you have available to feed it. For
exomple: the 18-year old farmboy working from dawn to dusk in the
ricefiekl will eat tons of fish, i ice, and vegetables while the relatively
more sedentary office worker will consume much less meat and rice
heCause he expends less physical energy.
So, as you have rabbits in different stages of development and
doing different kinds of things, you feed them differently. Rabbits
are generally divided into 4 classes based on their dietary needs. They
are: (a) growing and fattening rabbits; (b) resting (non-pregnant and
non-lactating) does and bucks; (c) pregnant does and (d) lactating
does with litters. Each of these classes should be fed a different ration
21
33
in varied amounts. The "should be" is based on the assumption that
you want the rabbits in each of these classes to perform to the best of
their abilities (i.e. you wouldn't feed a lactating doe the same moder-
ate amounts of a carbohydrate-rich food that you would feed a
mature buck, because you want the lactating doe to produce as much
high quality-protein rich milk for her young as possible while you
only want the buck to maintain his weight).
The "should be's" of rabbit feeding can be expressed in the form of
specific numerical nutrient levels (i.e. crude protein and TON *), and
daily amounts of feed, as shown in Table 2. These "should be's" are
TABLE 11
NUTRIENT REQU 1REMENTS OF RABBITS
(on air dr weight of ration basis)
Rabbit Bod Weight To FeedFee Ton Crude Protein
Class Anima IldaN
(kg) . (%)
(gin)

Normal 1.8 ' 114 65 _

Growth 2.3 136
Fattening 2.7 155. 65 16
Does/Bucks 3.2 173

1 Maintenance 93 91 "'"
Does or Bucks 4.5 150 55 12
Resting 6.7 205

2.3 114
Pregnant 4.5 186 58 13
Does

Lactating . o,3
Does mid 4.5 70 17
litter of 7 6.7

Expected &MN gain 32 gins. gain

(taken from USN RC tables, 1966)

*1'0\ refers to Totai Digest:1We Nutrients, a forrn measurement of energ%.

22
34
requirements if you agree that you want certain things such as at least
8 bunnies per litter; at least 32 grams per day of average daily weight
gain for growing, fattening rabbits; a small incidence of reproduct ive
failure; etc. These conditions represent what a good commercial
rabbit raiser would like to see on his farm.
Some of you will likely be running a commercial sized rabbitry (say
50 or 'more does), so we will use the following feeding guidelines
(nutrient requirements) for our purpose. In this way we will minimize
as much as possible the chances of failure in the rabbitry project due
to poor nutrition.
If we simplify these requirements, we come up with a feeding pro-
gram that looks like thi.;:
1. Feed as much fresh grasses and/or legumes as the rabbits want
each day; up to 85 per cent grass.
2. Feed i commercial feed of at least 16 per cent crude protein at
the following levels:
For each rabbit ...

resting bucks and does 12() g. a day-

pregnan t does 240 g. a day
lactating does with litters 480 g. a day
growing/fattening rabbits 960 g. a day
(after weaning to slaughter
or 31/2 4 months old) ..

3. Have fresh water available at all times.

4. Gii'e salt to your rabbits about once a week or mix it into the
concentrate it a level of 0.5 per cent (1/2 g. salt/1,000 g. feed).
It is important that you follow a feeding regime using significant
amounts of concentrate feeds for two reasons: (a) since this is a
pilot-demonstration project, you want to minimize your chances of
failure, and (h) since the offspring of these rabbits are intended for
use as breeding stock, you want to produce young that are as healthy
titc1,Vigprous as possible. If you cut down the amomn of concentrates
or unbalance the diet, the first thing you'll notice is a lowered repro-
ductive performance followed by a slower growth rate of the young
produced. An insufficient or unbalanced diet, therefore, cannot be
justified for an animal used or intended for breeding and for meat
purposes since the cost of a single reproductive failure or of a greatly
reduced litter size is much greater than the savings in reduced feed,
whether or not you consider the investment of your labor, your
infrastructure (i.e. hutches) and breeding stock of any value at all.
Other general considerations for feeding rabbits should be made as
follows:

23
35
 Concentrates
In the Philippines, a variety of commercial mash and pellet feeds
can he found. The ones best suited for rabbits are:
Pig starter pellets
Pig grower mash
Rabbit pellets
These have generally at least 16 per cent crude protein and supply
enough energy to meet the needs of a rabbit at the feeding levels
suggested in the simplified feeding regime above.
In the States, what is fed as a pelleted ration for rabbits is a feed that
contains about. 50 per cent alfalfa hay, a leguminous roughage.
In the Philippines, the available commercial pellets or mashes are
not formulated for rabbits but for hogs, pigeons, chickens, etc.
animals that cannot utilize roughage the way rabbits can. Thus,
commercial feeds in the Philippines are made almost entirely of
concentrates (grains or grain by-products) so you can feed less of
--... them to your rabbits than the USN RC recommended daily levels if
you also supply them with plenty of grasses and/or legumes. You can
reduce the atnoum of concentrateit rate feeds since the forages you supply
do not have the same nutrient value (due to their lower digestibility,
and large atnouttts of water) as the dehydrated alfalfa used in V.S.
,
pellets.
Pellets arc preferable to mashes because the rabbits waste less (they
can't snuff and paw them out of the crocks <ts easily) and they are not
dusty and so will not irritate the nose and lungs. If you must- use a
mash, you can avoid the dustiness and reduce some waste by adding
just enough water to slightly moisten the feed. But beware of giving
too much moistened feed to the rabbit Or leaving ig it in the pen too long
as it will sour and ;he rabbit will not eat it causing further waste. In the
low lands where ferment at ion is more prevalent, give the rabbits only
enough concentrates to be consumed within a 10-13 minute time
span. For example. in a large herd, a kilo of feed wasted daily is a
substantial economic loss over a year's time.
Home-Mixed Feed
There are a n umber of ways of preparing and feeding home mixed
rat ions to rabbits which you may want to try after You've raised rabbits
for a while with success, so that you know what your variables are
when you begin to experiment with the feeds.
In general, rabbits can be fed almost <mtv food that is not sour,
spoiled, or greasy. A few except lolls are meat, potatoes and/or potato
peelings and large amounts of cabbage. Thus the rabbit's diet may be
supplemented with many things, including vegetable trimmings,
94
36
.

fruit peelings, bread crusts and sun-dried leftover rice and leftover
niiik.
One may mix his own concentrate feed if suitable ingredients are
available. One example of a home-mixed concentrate ration is:
17% "All Purpose" Rabbit Feed
200 g. Corn (sorghum)
200 g. Darak, D.
190 g. Corn Germ glutett feed)
170 g. Copra Meal
70 g. Ipil-ipil
60 g. Bone Meal
40 g. Soybean Meal
40 g. Fish Meal (Meat and Bone)
2() g. Oyster Shell Flour
10 g. Salt
1,000 g. =1 kg.
Fish meal in this ration should be reliable, fresh, and of good
-0
quality or else use meat and bone meal. For breeders, raise the
soybean meal to 60 g. and drop the copra to 150 kg. It would be better
to utilize alfalfa (Leucern') instead of ipil-ipil if it is available. If by
necessity ipil-ipil is used, the Peruvian variety is less toxic.
The ideal is to feed the rabbit both commercial feed and greens as
the rabbit should eat 85 per cent forage of good quality and quantity.
In case the commercial concentrates or home-mixed ingredients are
not available, green feeding composed of 50 per cent legumes and 50
per cent of other grasses will suffice in providing a minimum dietary
requirement especially for dry does and bucks.
As with other sources of feed, a few basic guidelines should be
followed with forages:
Do NOT Feed:
a) Green feeds that stand in piles before feeding. They will become
heated and cause digestive disorders due to fermentation.
b) Kangkong leaves or stems (they generally carry the parasites
found in swampy areas).
c) Forages collected from places where dogs and cats and other
animals commonly defecate as this may cause tapeworm and/or
coccidiosis.
d) Forages sprayed or recently in contact with insecticides.
DO feed:
a) Salt. Salt should be provided in the feed at a level of 0.5 per cent
or provided in the cage in a block or small container at least 1 tsp. in
the grain ration once a week or when needed.
b) Water. Clean, fresh water MUST be provided to rabbits at all
25
37
 times. This is important especially in the tropics where a doe and her
litter may consume as much as 2 liters of water a day. ...

Important Note
/ One last point to mention regarding feeds is whatever you usea
type of mash, an ingredient in a feed, a forageif you wish to.make a
change in the rabbit's diet, do it slowly. Serious damage or even death
may result if large quantities of lush greens are fed to an iiiials accus-
tomed to concentrated feed only. Even sudden changes in a grain diet
may cause minor, or possibly serious, digestive disorders. ANY
CHANGE IN FEEDING SHOULD BE MADE GRADUALLY. The
best method is mixed feeding (giving greens and commercial) to
avoid any sudden change.
Forages
Forages are essential for their roughage and vitamin value in the
Philippines where the commercial pellets and mashes consist of only
grain concentrates. In addition, forages greatly economize the
amount of concentrate fed (Fig. 14).

it..
.
44i
. .'r-
FIGURE 14Cult ivale forages before starting your rabbitr project.

'Many kinds of forages as shown on Table III can be fed to rabbits.

TABLE. 111
FEEDS FOR FEEDING RABBITS

LEGUMES GRASSES

1. Kudzu 1. Alahang
2. Tapilan 2. Johnson grass
:3. Naiad 3. Guinea grass
4. Mani-niannan 4. Para grass

26
38
 -,

LEGUMES GRASSES (Con't)

, ,
5. Cowpea 5.' Btingalon
6. Centrosema 6. Corn leaves and stalks
7. Russian, apanese, Philippine 7. Carabao grass
native sunflowers (seeds and 8. Napier
trunks) 9. Bermuda grass
8. Soybean leaves 10. Kikuyu grass
9. Shaw 11. Bamboo leaves
0. Batao 12. Star grass
1. Cantote leaves and vines
2. Sinus)
3. Goat weed or Ageratum OTHERS (Preferably dried)
4. Viola or violet
5,. Potato leaves 1. Banana leaves and peelings
6. Bean leaves and vipes 2. Pechay
7. Ranti leaves and stem 3. ' Lettuce
8. Mongo leaves 4. Cabbage
9. Desrnodium 5. Guava leaves
20. Stylosonthes 6. Alnow tree leaves
21. Japanese weed 7. Jpil-ipil (Peruvian 1YPe)
22. Chinese ageratum 8. Timothy hay
23. Thumbergia 9. Rice hay
24. Wild mustard 0. Wheat hay
25. Remex 1. Coffee leaves
26. Mountain Blue weed 2. Gutnamela leaves
27. Joseph's coat 3. Aida
4. Acalypha
5. Father weed
i GREENS 6. Wikl cosmos
7. Polygonam
1. (:ortt 8. Savoie
2. Palav
3. Mongo
4. An variet). of Bean Faith Is ROOT CROPS
5. Soybeali
i 1. Camote
2. Sinkamas
3. Carrots

MILLS

1. Copra
2. Rice bran

CO.PROPHAGY.
Rabbits re-ingest part of their food, usually-in the early morning,
when they are unobserved. They re-ingest only the sort matter that
has pass'ecl through the digestive tract. Investigators have called.this
trait "pseudo rumination- from the characteristics of ruminants
(cows, sheep, and others) that chew the cud, which is food regurgi- #

27
39
o
 .
tated and chewed again. Most rabbit breeders are unaware of this
practice. Some who have observed it, believe it indicates a nutritional
deficiency and lack of quantity and quality of feed. It is however,
. normal in rabbits and may actually enhance the nutritive value of the
feed by virtue of a second passage through the digestive tract.

REPRODUCTION
Lactation
During the last week of pregnancy the mammary glands develop
rapidly. Though milk may be produced before kindling, and actually
leak from the glands of high-producing does, the actual le-down and
production is usually delayed until kindling, and is initiated under
hormohal and nervous stimuli induced by the action of.,suckling.
Maximum milk production is usually reached by the third week, after
which production gradually declines. The duration of lactation varies
depending upon diet, number of suckling yo.ung, and the length of
time the young are left with the doe. Ordinarily,. milk production is
negligible after the sixth or seventh week, though in well-noUrished, f
high-producing does with a litter of eight or nine, milk production
may last for 8 weeks or longer. Milk has been observed in the
1 stomachs of young weaned from thelsloe at 8 weeks of age, and milk
can be secreted from the glands for several days thereafter.
The amount o milk produced depends upon several factors such
as breed, strain, diet, and genetic constitution. Various studies of milk
production in rabbits indicate that during the height of lactation, milk
yield may reach 35 grams per kilogram of live weight. On this baSii, a
41/2 kilo doe would produce approximately 140 grams (5 ounces) of
milk a day. .

Contrary to popular belief, the doe does not nurse her young
throughout the 24-hour period. Especially for the very young in the
nest box, nursing is usually performed during the night or early
morning. It may consist of a single feeding of only a few minutes.
After the young leave the nest box and are consuming solid food they
will try to nurse several times during the day. However, the doe will
usually push them aside nd restrict their nursing to the night-time.
Occasionally does will al w the young to nurse during the day, as
most rabbit breeders have observed. Students of animal behavior
attribute the nursing habits of the doe to the fact that rabbits in their,
natural habitat are extensively preyed upon and are rather helpless to
defend their young. Therefore, it is advantageous for the doe to stay
away from the young as much as possible.
A regular feeding program determines a regular and consistent
nursing scheduleby the doe. Therefore, if you feed the doe both

0
28
4 40
1
concentrate and roughage at 5:30 in the morning and 5:30 in the late
afternoon, the doe can be expected to nurse her young regularly
between 6:00 and 7:00 A.M. and P.M.
Factors that Limit Conception
Among the causes of failure to conceive; or low conception rates,
are false pregnancy (pseudopregnancy), age, poor physical condi-
tion, sore hocks, injuries, disease, hot weather, nervousness' or
restlessness due to mixed colony. .

PseudopregnancyDoes may be stimulated sexually and shed the

egg cells, yet fail to become pregnant when the caretaker fails to have
her properly mated. In this case, signs of heat are,present, forcing her
to ride on other 'does if in colony type hutches. Does which become
pseudopregnant are unable to conceive until the false-pregnancy
period of 17 days is over. After 18 to 22 days, the doe may give
evidence of the termination of false pregnancy by pulling fur and
attempting to-make a nest. When false pregnancy has terminated, the
doe will resume normal reproductive activity and may be bred.
Separate does that are to be mated and put each in an individual'
hutch 18 days before mating. Then they will have passed through any
false pregnancy period by mating time. Sometimes; the cycle of
pseudopregnancy can be broken by abruptly changing the type of
roughage and concentrate or by giving no feed at all for 24 hours.
Forced mating can also break the cycle of pseudopregnancy if heat
signs are present.
AgeYoung does may not:be sexually mature at the time of
service, and old does may have passed their period of usefulness and
fail to conceive. Do not attempt the first mating until the does are
sexually mature and properly developed; the 'proper age is 51/2 -6
months old and weighing at least 21/2 kilos. /
Does should reproduce satisfactorily as long as they are maintained,
in good physical condition and can properly nurse their litters. Retain
them if- younger and better stock is not available for replacements. In
commercial herds, does that are properly,Cared for should produce
litters until they are 21/2 to 3 years old. An occasional individual rabbit
may reproduce satisfactorily 4 to 6 years, or longer.
Physical ConditionRabbits that go "off feed," go into a pro-
longed or heavy molt, become abnormally fat or thin, or become out
of condition for any reason, may have their reproductive powers
impaired. The percentage that will conceive will be low, since they
may become temporarily sterile. lip' any backyard or commercial
rabbitry, quantity and quality of feed should never be sacrificed for
economical factors.
29
41
 DiseaseNever mate rabbits when they show any symptom of
disease. Remove such animals from the herd and hold them in
quarantine until they recover. Certainly, sickly animals produce in-
ferior offspring. .
Extreme HeatRabbits have a tendency to become temporarily
sterile in extreme temperatures such as (30°32°C). It is recom-
mended to breed in the early morning or late afternoon.
,

MANAGING THE HERD

Success in raising rabbits depends on efficient management. Be-
come thoroughly acquainted with your animalstheir characteristics
and behavior, their likes and dislikes. Consideration for the welfare
of animals is always necessary._ for success in raising them. Proper
arrangement of equipment, hutches, and location of buildingsis also
essential to efficient management. When you enter the rabbitry, do it
quietly and make your presence known by speaking in a low tone.
Caution others to do the same. Otherwise, the rabbits may become
frightened, race around in the hutch and injure themselves, or jump
into the nest boxes and injure the litters.
Methods of Handling, Rabbits.
Never lift rabbits by the ears or legs. Handling in this manner may
injure them and even cause drooping ears.
You can lift and comfortably carry small rabbits by grasping the
loin region gently and firmly (Fig. 15). Put the heel or the hand
toward the tail of the animal. This method prevents bruising the
carcass or damaging the pelt.
To lift and carry medium
weight rabbits, let the right hand
stroke the ears down and grasp
;.,),.
the fold of the skin over the
rabbits shoulder. This. allows
added control of the head por-
I tion. Support the rabbit by
.,
8t
IL placing the left hand under its
4); rump.
-Lift and carry heavier rabbits
-3 in a similar manner. If the rabbit
aka-
scratches and struggles, tuck his
1
hind legs under the right arm
and hold it snugly: or release the
FIGURE 15 Lift small rabbits by animal on the ground and follow
grasping the loin region gently.. the stated steps again(Fig. 16).

42
Determining Pregnancy
It is not accurate to determine
pregnancy by "test mating"
(placing the doe in the buck's
hutch periodically). Some does
will accept service when pregnant
and others will refuse service
When they are not pregnant.
Diagnosing pregnancy by noting .

the development of the abdomi-

nal region and gain in flesh is
not dependable until late in
pregnancy. -,
You can quickly and accurately
determine pregnancy by palpat-
ing, after 12 to 14 days from
mating, but you must handle the
doe gently. The method for
restraining the doe for palpating FIGURE 16 Carry heavier rabbits by
tucking the hind legs under the right
is illustrated in figure 17. The arm and holding snugly.
doe may be palpated in her own
hutch or if it is more convenient she may be placed on a table covered
with feed sacks or carpeting to prevent slipping. The ears and a fold
of skin over the shoulders are held in the right or left hand; the other
hand is placed under the shoulder between the hind legs and slightly
in front of the pelvis; the thumb is placed on the right side and the
fingers on the left side of the two uteri for palpating the fetuies. At 12
to 14 days following mating, the fetuses have developed into marble-
shaped forms that are easy to distinguish as they slip between the
thumb and fingers when the hand is gently moved forward and
backAvard and a slight pressure is exerted. Caution must be used in
this operation, because if too much pressure is exerted, the tissues
may be bruised or torn loose from the walls of the uteri and a toxic
condition or abortion may result.
There is less danger of bruising the tissues or causing the fetuses to
be torn loose from the walls of the uteri in palpating at 12 to 14 days
than at a later period. Also, diagnosing pregnancy after the 16th day
of the gestation period is more complicated because the developing
fetuses are so large that they may be confused with digestive organs.
The inexperienced rabbit owner should make examinations at 12 to
14 days and then as he improves his technique and attains confidence
in the operation he may be able to develop the ability for diagnosing
31

43.
 FIGURE 17How to restrain a doe for palpating.
pregnancy accurately as early as the 7th or 8th day. The chief advan-
tage to be derived from palpating as early as the 7th or 8th day would
be in the case of the breeder selling bred does. When it is desirable to
ship bred does a considerable distance, diagnosing pregnancy at this
early date makes it possible to have these does arrive at their destina-
tion in sufficient time to become settled and acquainted with their
new environment, with the minimum risk of complications at
kindling.
If on palpating no fetuses are found to be present, the doe has
failed to conceive, in which case she should be rebred. The doe that is
pregnant can be placed immediately on a diet that is best suited for
pregnant does. Twenty-five days after breeding, the doe may then be
given a nest box with nesting materials, giving her ample time to
prepare for kindling.
While palpating is the most reliable method of determining
pregnancy, it is also the most dangerous for the inexperienced
caretaker. As an alternative to palpating, observe the following signs
in a doe:
1. Rejecting buck when returned for service.
2. Enlarged abdomen.
3. Total rejecting of new types of feed.
4. Grunting when tapped on head or personality change.
5. Will scratch a corner of her cage thus showing her preferential location for
kindling during the second to third week.

Although the above mentioned signs are not as accurate as palpat-

ing, they will assisuhe caretaker in determining pregnancy with up to
85 per cent accuracy.
32 44
 Kindling
Place a nest box in the hutch about 25 days after the doe is mated in
her preferred corner. This allows the doe to piepare a nest in ad-
vance and assure a proper place for birth of the young.
Sometimes does fail to pull fur to cover their litter, or they kindle
the litter on the hutch floor and let them become chilled. If you
discover the young in time, you may be able to save them by warming,
even if they appear lifeless. To warm the babies prepare a cup of
lukewarm water. Hold the baby by the head and dip a few times in the
cup. Then, dry with a cloth. Arrange the bedding material to make a
comfortable nest, and place the warmed young in it. The doe usually
will take over from there. The doe's fur is easily removed at kindling
time, and you can pull enough from the doe's body to cover the litter
in the nest. it is advisable to keep extra fur on hand for such-cases.
Remove some fur from nests where does have pulled an excessive
amount and keep it handy in a separate bag or box so it will remain
clean. it is not necessary to sterilize or to deodorize the fur, but, take
special measures to prevent the doe from smelling the strange fur by
holding her bunnies with the strange fur and rubbing your hand
along the doe's back before placing the fur in the nest box. This aids
in tranferring her smell to the strange fur. If the doe smells the
strange fur, it is likely that she will eat it if these precautionary
measures are not followed.
A day or two before kindling, the doe usually consumes less food
than normally. Do not disturb her, but make her as comfortable as
possible. You may tempt her at that time with small quantities of
green feed and commercial feed. This will have a beneficial effect on
her digestive system. After the doe kindles, give her plenty of fresh
green feed.
Most litters are kindled at night. After kindling, the doe may be
restless. Do not disturb her until she has quieted down.
Leave the young in the hutch with the doe until they are 8 to 12
weeks of age.
Care of Young Litter
A few hours after kindling, remove the nest box from the cage and
inspect the litter to remove any deformed, undersized, or dead
young. If you are careful and quiet making the inspection, the doe
generally will not object. There is no danger of causing her to disown
the young. If she is nervous and irritable, place some tempting feed in
the hutch immediately before inspection to distract her attention and
quiet her.
Litters vary in size. The more common breeds usually average eight
45 33
 .

young. Some may number 12 to 18. For commercial purposes 7, 8, or

9 may be left with the doe. Does from strains that have been de-
veloped for heavy production may care for 9 or 10.
You can transfer some of the baby rabbits from a large litter to a
foster mother that has a small litter. Adjusting the number of young
to the capacity of the doe insures more uniform growth and de-
velopment at weaning time. Therefore, mate several does so that they
will kindle at about the same time. For best results, the young that are
transferied should be within 3 or 4 days of the age of the foster
mother's young. To facilitate acceptance by the foster mother, rub
Vicks Vaporub on her nose as well as the nose of the bunnies to
deaden their sense of smell; or better yet, run your hand through the
foster mother's fur thus transferring her smell to the bunnies. This
will enable a successful acceptance by the doe.

Causes of Losses in Newborn Litters

If the doe is disturbed, she may kindle on the hutch floor and the
litter may die from exposure. Even if predatorscats, snakes, strange
dogs, antscannot gain access to the rabbitry, they may be close
enough for the doe to detect their presence, and she may be fright-
ened and kindle prematurely. If she is disturbed after the litter is
born and jumps into the nest box, she may stamp with her back feet
and injure or kill the newborn rabbits. Discourage strangers, even
your good friends, from entering the breeding section of the rabbitry
during kindling time except for the caretaker, whose voice and pres-
ence are familiar to the rabbits.
Occasionally a doe fails to produce milk. In such cases the young
will starve within '2 or 3 days unless the condition is noted and the
young transferred to foster mothers. Keep a close check on newborn
litters for several days after birth to make sure they are being fed and
cared for properly.
Does sometimes eat their young. This may result from a ration
inadequate in either quantity or quality, or from the nervousness of a
doe disturbed after kindling. It is also possible that the doe is of a
strain that exhibits poor material instincts and cannibal behavior.
Does usually do not kill and eat healthy young, but limit their can-
nibalism to young born dead, or those that are injured and have died.
Proper feeding and handling during pregnancy will do more than
anything else to prevent thi3 tendency. Give another chance to a
valuable doe that destroys her first litter; if she continues the practice,
dispose of her.

34
46
 Weaning
Young rabbits open their eyes at 10 days old and start coming out of
the nest to eat feed when they are 19 or 20 days old. If the young come
out of the nest sooner, they may not be getting enough milk or the
nest may be too warm or the door blocker is too low at the front
section of the nest box.
The doe usually nurses her young at night or in the early evening
and morning hours during the first 2 weeks of nursing. After 2 weeks
she will nurse them at .her will. If the litter becomes divided, the doe
will either nurse the young in the nest or those on the floor. She will
not nurse both groups, nor will she pick up the young and return
them to the nest. This results when the nest box is too large or not
tilted backwards or up at the front.
Leave the young rabbits with the doe until they are 8 to 10 weeks
old. By that time, the milk supply will have decreased and the young
will be accustomed to eating other feed, thus allowing the doe to
prepare for the next kindling. Fryer rabbits should be in marketable
size and weight by the time they are 14-16 weeks of age.

Determining the Sex of Young Rabbits

Separate the sexes at weaning if you are saving junior replacements
or breeding stock. It is possible to determine accurately the sex of
baby rabbits less than one week old, but it is easier to do so when they
are weaned at 8 weeks. To keep the rabbit from struggling, restrain it
firmly, yet gently. A commonly used method is to hold the rabbit on
its back between legs with the head up. With your left hand restrain
the rabbit around the chest holding the front legs forward alongside
the head. Using the right hand, place the thumb behind the right
hind kg and use the index and forefinger to depress the area in front
of the sex organs to expose the reddish mucous membrane (Fig. 18).
In the buck, the organ will protrude as a rounded tip, while in the doe
the membrane will protrude to form a slit with a depression at the end
next to the anus.
If yo" eyes or hands are not keen enough to follow the above
metho - .erve the rabbits during feeding, if they ride or mount on
one anotner at even 11/2 months of age, surely they are males and are
bound to be good quality breeders in the future.

Records
As mentioned before, record keeping is essential to good manage-
ment. The most important features of a simple record system are
illustrated in the hutch cards shown in figures 19 and 20.
35
47
 Mark each breeding rabbit for
your record system. Tattooing is
the best marking method because
it is permanent and will not dis-
figure the ears. An adjustable box
(Fig. 21) is convenient for re-
straining rabbits for tattooing:
Ear tags and clips are not satis-
factory for marking because they
tear out and disfigure the ears.
A convenient and simple re-
, cord system is needed to keep
track of breeding, kindling, and
weaning operations. Informa-
tion from the records can be used
to cull unproductive animals and
to select desirable breeding stock.
Records need not be extremely FIGURE 18 Sexing a doe: with the
detailed, unless the personal de- thumb depress the mucous membrane
sires and time of the operator so the protrusion shows a slit with a
depression at the end below the anus.
allow for minute record keeping.
Whatever records are kept should permit the operator to calculate
costs of production and evaluate the progress made over comparable
periods of time (Fig. 22).
Basic information desired includes: (a) the number of does bred,
(b) the number of conceptions, (c) the number of does kindling, (d)
the number of does raising a litter, (e) total young left with doe, and
0) total number of young weaned or raised per breeding. These facts
will provide the necessary permanent, production factors. Informa-
tion can be obtained from the hutch record cards and compiled on a
monthly summary form. The monthly figures can then be accumu-
lated on an annual summary form; and an annual summary of the
rabbitry can be ascertained by posting :he accumulated investment,
income, and expense figures on a sum- nary chart.
Records are essential for success in rabbitry whether it be on a
commercial level or in the backyard aid on a small scale. Highly
productive does and bucks can be secured from past records for
replacement stock and sale.

36 48
 FIGURE 19
SAMPLE OF A HUTCH CARD FOR RECORDKEEPING

A. FRONT
HUTCH CARD

Animal No. W 301 Born 12/12/61 Breed New Zealand White

Sire W 394 Dam W 604 Litter No. W 714
I
NUMBER
DATE BUCK DATE NO. YOUNG BORN YOUNG LITTER DATE WEANED
BRED KINDLE ALIVE DEAD RETAINED NO. WEANED NO.

6/1/62 W 418 7/2 11 0 8 W19 8/27 8

8/24/62 W 418 9/24 9 0 8 W175 11/19 8

11/16/62 W 418 Passed 11130

11/30/62 W 421 12/3() 8 W316 /24

9 1
263 8

2/21/63 W 421 3/24 11 0 8 W465 5/19 7

. .

B. BACK

PRODUCTION RECORD

UTTER WEANIN G
NO. NUMBER NOTES
AGE WEIGHT
J 1
days gm
W19 8
- 56 30.2
-,

W175 8 56 31.0

Passed 11/30 56

W316 8 56 '32.0

W465 7 56 28.0
- -

- -
37
 BUCK BREEDING RECORD
Buck No.

Bred Sire
Date born_ Dam

Result of breeding
DATE Weaned
Doe L6cation BRED Kindled Passed
Alive Dead Date Numbed Weight

. ,

. A ------..._ _____..---- ----___...

FIGURE 20SAMPLE OF A BUCK BREEDING RECORD.

38
so
 FlGURE 21'
ANNUAL PRODUCTION OR INVENTORY RECORD
i NO. MARKETABLE TOTAL TOTAL
NO.
YEAR OOES
FD OF BUNNIES ASSETS DEBITS
BUCKS TOTAL *(1) *(2)
1973 50 12 1,200

1974 70 15 1,600

1975 80 16 1,900

1976 100 22 2,000 -

*( I ) Includes equipment, stock, and fur.

*(2) General overhead: feeds, labor, taxes. electricity. etc.

181/4"

FIGURE 22 - Vertical section of a box for restraining a rabbit for tattooing . The
spring-type holders tacked to the lower side of a movable floor compress the rabbit
toward the top of the box. A movable cross partition holds the rabbit toward the
front. Blocks of wood on each side hold the rabbit's head in the center of the hole at
the top.

39

51
 Preventing Injuries
Another aspect of good managementcaring for welfare of the
animalsis preventing injuries. Many injuries such as paralyzed
hindquarters in rabbits usually result from improper handling or
from injuries caused by slipping in the hutch while exercising or
attempting to escape predators. Such slipping usually occurs at night
around kindling time. Another cause of injuries is faulty cages that
possess protruding nails, wire, or improper wire size. Common in-
juries are dislocated vertebras, damaged nerve tissue, or strained
muscles and/or tendons.
lithe injury is mild, the animal may recover in a few days. Make the
injured animal comfortable and feed it a balanced diet. If it does not
improve withiti a week, destroy it to prevent unnecessary suffering.
It is important, therefore, that your rabbits be provided with quiet,
comfortable s`urxoUndings and be protected from predators and
unnecessary disturbances. Again, we stress the fact that noise in the
rabbitry should be avoided at all times. Also do not allow visitors to
poke the rabbits ..., instead they should be courteous to them.
Trimming toenails is another preventive measure. The toenails of
rabbits confined in hutches do not wear normally. They may even
become long enough to cause foot deformity. The nails may also
catch in the wire mesh floor and cause injury and suffering. Periodi-
cally cut the nails with side cutting.pliers. Cut below the tip of the cone
in the toenail. The cone can be observed by holding the f6ot up to
daylight. This will not cause hemorrhaging or injury to the sensitive
portion.

Sanitation and Disease Co ntrol

Daily cleaning of' hutches, containers and surroundings is the
easiest way to insure sanitary condition hence control disease. When
rabbits appear sick refer to table 4 on the following pages which
presents in a concise form useful information on the more common
disorders of the domestic rabbit. .

The most common diseases in the Philippines found in rabbits are

coccidiosis, pasteurella type pneumonia, and enteritis. These gener-
ally are caused by lack of sanitation in the rabbitry. With strict sanita-
tion practices such as cleaning all cages and water containers
EVERYDAY and collecting roughage from uncontaminated areas,
(ideally, you will have provided space for planting your own forages)
you can drastically minimize chances of ANY disease in the rabbitry
or even yourself. (Fig. 23 )
40
52
 ANL -
FIGURE 23(Left) healthy Chinchilla and (right) ) disease stricken New Zealand
White.

TABLE IV
DISEASE, CAUSE, TREATMENT

DISEASE AND SYMPTOMS CAUSE TREATMENT AND CONTROL

SKIN
Ear Mange or Canker- Infestation by Remove scales and crusts
Shaking of head, scratch- mites through from inner ear and swab
ing of ears. Brown scaly feeds or unsan- with a mixture of I tsp.
crusts at base of inner itary cages. of edible oil to 3 drops
ear. iodine. Pour into infec-
ted ear. Crush cartilage
to break up scabs. Repeat
once a week until cured.

Skin Alange-Reddened Infestation by Sevin sprayable 85 mixed

scaly skin, iniense itch- skin parasites with oil and rubbed on
ing and scratching, some due to unsani- infected areas. In severe
loss of fur. tary condii ions cases, cull animals.
of i he cage and
feeds.

Fat'w or Ringworm- Fungus infection Treat with Fulvicin

Circular patches or of the skin. given orally at the rate
scaly skin with, red, of 10 milligrams per pOund
elevated crusts. Usually body weight for 14 days.
stares on head, fur may Combine this treatment
break off or fall out. with dusting nest boxes
with industrial fungicidal
sulfur. Apply to infected
area, hexetidine, for 7-
14 days. Combine with
sulfur dusting.

41
53
 TABLE IV
DISEASE, CAUSE, TREATMENT -- Continued

DISEASE AND SYMPTOMS CAUSE TREATMENT AND CONTROL

Sore Hacks-Bruised, Bruised or Small lesions may be helped

infected or abscessed chafed areas that by placing resting board in
areas on hocks. May be become infected. cage. Advanced cases are
found on front feet in Wet floors, best culled. Apply crude
severe cases. Animal irritation front oil mixed with three diops
shifts weight to front wire, nervous iodine once a week until
feet to help hockS. "stompers", are recovery.
factors in cause.

Warbles-lrritated, Infestations of Drop chloroform on larvae

raised area under skin. skin by fly and remove with forceps.
usually back or flanks. larvae, Apply mild antiseptic to
Active larvae can be felt wound
under skin, area usually
moist.

Lympjadenitis-Multiple Bacterial in- Disinfect nest boxes.

abscesses or lesions under fection caused Severely infected animai.b
the skin or in lymph glands. by staphylococ- should be destroyed. Com-
Loss of appetite and weight. ous aureus. bination of 400,000-units
May become generalized of Penicillin and
blood stream infection. gram Streptomycin
to each 2 millimeters should
be given orally approx.
MUCOUS MEMBRANES
Y ml. each day for 3-5 days.

Urine - Hutch. Burn- Bacterial Keep hutch floors clean

Inflammation of external in fection of and dry. Pay particular
sex organs and antis. Area the membranes. attention to corners
may form crusts and bleed where animals urinate.
and, if severely infected, Daily applicationpf
ptis will be produced. lanolin will hasten
recovery.

Spirochetosu.s or Vent Infection by Do not breed until lesions

Disease-Similar lesions spirochete, are healed. If only a few
as produced. by urine or Treponerna artimais are infected, it is
hutch burn. Raw lesions or cuniculi. easier to cull than treat.
scabs appear on sex organs Do not loan bucks. Inject
transmitted by mating. intramuscularly 100,000
units of Penicillin.

Con juctivitis or Weepy Eye- Bacterial in- Early cases may be cleared
Inflammation of the eyelids fection of the up with eye ointments,
discharge may be thin and eyelids; may argyrol, yellow oxide of
watery or thick and puru- also be due to mercury, or antibiotic.

42 54
 TABLE 4/
DISEASE, CAUSE,'TREATMENT Continued
DISEASE AND SYMPTOMS CAUSE 1
TREATMENT AND CONTROL

lent. Fur around eyes may irritation from Protect animal from air-
become wet and matted.. smoke, dust, borne irritants.
sprays, or fumes.

Infected Nose-Inflamma- Bacterial infec- Remove scabs from nose and

tion or swelling with tion of the nose lips and inject intramus-
cracking and chapping of and lips, similar cularly 100,000 units of
nose and lips. Sometimes hutch or penicillin. For scabby
brown scabs mat up to urine burn. nose continue for 3 days
considerable thickness on Clean up cases of urine
the nose. clean and dry.

MILK GLANDS
Caked Breasts-Breasts Milk not drawn Do not wean young abruptly;
became firm and congested from glands as if litter is lost, rebreed
later hard knots form at fast as formed doe and protect doe from
sides of nipple. Knots because of too disturbances, so young can
may break open showing few young, or nurse properly. Correct
dried milk. young not nurs- faulty nest boxes that
ing sufficiently. injure breasts.
Usually a
management
problem . \_.....
.
with high milk
producing does.

Mastitis or Blue Breasts- Bacterial infec- For early cases inject

Breasts become feverish tion of the intramuscularly 100,000
and pink, nipples red and breasts usually units penicillin twice
dark. Temperature above by Staphylococ- each day 3-5 f!ays. Dis-
normal, appetite poor. ous or Strepto- infect hutch, reduce feed
Then breasts turn black coccus species. concentrates. If case
and purplish. advanced, cull. Never trans-
fer young from infected
to another doe.
Snuffles or Cold- Bacterial infec- Individual animals may be
Sneezing, rubbing nose, tion of the na- treated with combination
nasal discharge may be sal sinuses. of 400,000 units of /
thick or thin. Mats fur Sometimes penicillin combined-aith
on inside front feet. May caused by mash /2 gram streptomycin to
develop into pneumonia, feeds given dry. each 2 ml. Give intra-
I
usually chronic type of muscularly 1 ml. for fryer
infection. size, 2 ml. for mature.
Repeat on third day. If

43
56
 TABLE IV
DISEASE, CAUSE, TREATMENT Continued
DISEASE AND SYMPTOMS CAUSE TREATMENT AND CONTROL

tends to reoccur add feed

grade Sulfaquinoxaline so
that level will be 0.025%,
feed 3-4 wks. Add water
soluble Sulfaquinoxaline
so that level will be
0.025%, feed 2-3 wks.
This will reduce trans-
mission to young. Save
replacement stock from
dean animals and cull
cases of snuffles from
herd.

Pneumonialabored Bacterial infec- Treatment the same as for

breathing with nose tion of the snuffles. Eliminate stress
held high, bluish color lungs due to factors, ear mange, sore
to eyes and ears, lungs exposure to hocks, abscesses on body
show congestion, red, rains and all predisposing factors for
mottled, moist, may be typhoons. pneumonia. Provide cover
filled with pus. Often during windy, rainy szason
secondary to enteritis. for cages.

Heat ProstrationRapid Lack of venti- Ventilate hutch or build-

respiration, prostration, lation and ing to allow air flow.
blood tinged fluid from improper loca-
nose and mouth. Does that tion of hutch.
are due to kindle are most
susceptible.

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM
Malocclusion or BuciTreth- Some types are DO NOT SAVE bredding stock
Incissors grow idiftsrso inheritable, from parent showing long
mouth cannot close properly others are re- teeth. Trim teeth on
Uppers curl back, lowers suit of injury. fryers to get animals to
protrude. Animals cannot market. CULL RABBITS.
eat. Prone to pneumonia.

Coccidiosis, (Liver) -
White circular -spots on and Parasitic infec- Keep floors clean, dry,
through enlarged liver. tion of the li- remove droppings
Bile appears yellow in co- ver and bile frequently. Prevent
lor and bladder may show ducts caused by fecal contamination
sediment of cocysts. Usually Eimeria stiedae of feed and water. Treat w/
cannot detect in Beimet or Sulmet. Follow in-
live animals, not fatal. structions on fable.

44
56
 TABLE IV
DISEASE, CA USE, TREATMENT Continued

DISEASE AND SYMPTOMS CAUSE TREATMENT AND CONTROL

Coccidiosis (Intestinal)- Parasitic Keep floor clean, dry

Mild cases, no symptoms; infection of the remove droppings frequently.
moderate cases, diarrhea intestinal tract. Prevent fecal contamination
and no weight gain. Severe of food and water. Sulmet
cases have pot belly, or Belmet combined with
diarrhea with mucus; and SANITATION will greatly
pneumonia is often reduce numbers of parasites
secondary. and animals infected.

Enteritis. Bloat, Scours- Never has been Terramycin scour tablets

Loss of appetite. little shown to be in- with vitamin A, D, and
activity, eyes dull and fectious or Niacinamide. If this is
squinted, fur rough, and transmitted to not available use Sulfa-
animal may appear bloated. other animals. suxidine or Sulfaguanadine.
Diarrhea or mucus in drop- (Beware of fer- Follow instruction on
pings and animal may grind mented, spoiled lable.
teeth. Stomach contents feeds and
fluid, intestinal contents forages.)
fluid, gaseous, or filed
with mucus.

Fur Block - Animals reduce Lack of suffi- Increase fiber or roughage

feed intake or stop eating cient fiber, in the ration. Feed dry
completely, fur becomes bulk or roughage Leucerne or timothy hay.
rough and weight is lost. in diet. Junior
Stomach filled with undi- or developing
gested fur, blocking'pas- does most
sage to intestinal tract. susceptible.
Pneumonia may become
secondary.

Tapeworm Larvae-White Intermediate No treatment, keep dogs and

streaks in liver or small stage of the cats away from feed, water
white cysts attached to dog or cat and nest box material. Eggs
membrane on stomach or tapeworm. found in droppings of dogs
intestines. Usually cannot and cats.
detect in live animal.

P inworm.% -No symptoms Parasitic in fec- None; infection not consid-

in live animals. White lion of the ered one of economic
threadlike worms found in intestinal tract. importance.
cecurn and large intestine
causes slight local irri-
tation.

MetritiA or White Di charge Infection of the Dispose of infected animal

45
57
 TABLE IV
DISEASE, CAUSE, TREATMENTContinued

DISEASE AND SYMPTOMS CAUSE TREATMENT AND CONTROL

from female organs, often uterus, by a and disinfect hutch. In-

confused with sediment in variety of fected at ea difficult to
urine. Enlarged uterus bacteria, non- medicate. When both uteri
detected on palpation. One specific. are infected animal is
or both uteri filled with 1
ste rile.
white, purulent material.

Myxomatosis 3-Inflamma- Infection cased None, antibiotics not

tion and swelling of the by virus. effective. Reduce mosquito
eyes, ears, nose and geni- population by spraying,
tals, high fever, loss of draining stagnant water.
appetite ears may droop and screening, promptly
from weight of swelling. dispose of infeCted
Usually fatal, mature animals.
animals most affected.

Papilloma-W rin k le horny Infection caused None, not fatal, self-limit-

growths, usually on ears, by virus. ing. Usually an infection
may form "stag horn" type of the wild rabbit,
of growth. Not fatal. transmitted to the domestic
cannot be transmitted to by the bite of insects.
other domestic rabbits.

MILKWEED Poisoning- Paralysis caused Force feed and water into

Paralysis of the neck by eating leaves animal.
muscles and lack of coor- or stems of the
dination. Head droops be- wolly-pod-milk-
tween front legs. and animal weed, Aselepias
cannot eat or drink. Gen- eiraearpa.
eral paralysis in advanced
cases.

P.$eudotuberculosis-Chron- Bacterial Destroy hopelessly sick

ic infection, weight loss infection. animals, disinfect hutches.
weakness, and progressive
weakness, Add 50 grams NF-180 per
Small abscesses ton of feed to give a final
found in liver, kidneys concentration of 0.0055%.
spleen, lungs, or intestine. May be fed intermittently
or continuously.

Listeriosis-Loss of Bacterial Early treatment with

appetite and emaciation, infection. Terramycin at a level of
generally in young animals. 1 pound to 100-150 gallons
Minute white abscesses in of water. Advanced cases
liver, spleen and reproduc- should be destroyed.

46
58
 TABLE IV
DISEASE, CAUSE, TREATMENTContinued

DISEASE AND SYMPTOMS CAUSE TREATMENT AND CONTROL

tive organs. May involve Disinfect hutches.

central nervous system.

Hydrocephalus-Found in Nutrition de- Insure adequate vitamin A

young only; top of skull ficiency, lack in ration. Damage is done
raised, resembles large of sufficient during pregnancy. Symptoms
welt, firm to touch. Ven- Vitamin Ain appear in young about 10
tricles of brain enlarged, doe's diet. 20 days old.
filled with fluid.

Paralyzed Hind Qua/lens- Injery, result- Protect animals from

Found in mature does, hind ing in broken disturbing factors; preda-
legs drag, cannot stand or back displaced tors, night prowlers, and
support weight of pelvis. disc, damage to visitors or noises that
Urinary bladder fills but spinal cord or startle animals, especially
does not empty. nerves. pregnant does.
Wry- Neck -Head twisted Infection of the None, eliminate those with
to one side, animals roll organs of bal- ear canker from herd. Some
over, cannot maintain ance in the in- cases result from nest box
equilibrium. ner ear, may be injuries.
bacterial or
parasitic. This
is severe case
of untreated
ear canker

Use Affsilin for general use as a disease resistor. It is used as a food

supplement added to the feed. Terramycin premix added to the
ration is a general treatment for common rabbit diseases in the
Philippines to help prevent serious ailments.
There are certain principles, however, some of which may appear
to be self-evident, that are so generally applicable that space would
not permit their repetitious presentation in the table. These together
with certain relevant comments are, therefore, enumerated:
1. Disease is in a sense a natural phenomenon which can never be
completely eliminated but, can be greatly decreased through an in-
tensive daily sanitation program. (Fig. 24)
2. Purposeful and intelligent sanitation practices may usually keep
disease at a low level.
3. Prevention is vastly to be preferred to treatment and possible
cureproper sanitation practices are PREVENTION.
4. High natural resistance, long life and high productivity are as
47
59
 ..,

.,.

lik

FIGURE 24 Manure collects daily in corners of the cage. If not cleaned regularly,
skin mites multiply and infest the rabbit.

certainly inheritable as other traits, such as size, color, ear length, etc.,
but not necessarily in as simple a pattern. Persistent selection of
breeding stock on the basis of superior performance will pay well for
, the trouble expended.
5. Do not overcrowd your animals (see "Hutches").
6. Observe.good nutrition practices to permit the greatest expres-
sion of superior inheritable traits.
7. Provide plenty of draft-free ventilation. Up-drafts through self-
cleaning floor result from over enclosure of the sides; and these
drafts are particularly objectionable.
8. Permit your animals plenty of sunlight, if not attended by great
heat. Shade must also be provided.
9. Keep all equipment CLEAN and DRY and, to minimize the
possibilities of injury, keep it in good repair.
10. Avoid unnecessary handling of animals, their feed, their con-
tainers for food and water, or any equipment with which they come in
contact. The clothing and hands of the caretaker may spread disease.
11. Isolate all stock being brought into your herd, for 1-2 weeks,
whether it be a new introduction or one of your own animals that has
been in possible contact with other rabbits, directly or through
equipment and handlers.
12. Isolate animals suspected of having infectious diseases, and
care for such animals AFTER the normal ones have had their
attention.
13. Protect your animals from disturbing influences, particularly
48
60
night prowlers. Allow your animals complete rest during the day as
rcumine care will permit.
14. If rabbits are sold on regular schedule to a dealer, have market-
able stock segregated and confined outside of the rabbitry or at its
entrance. The pickup man visits may rabbitries in rapid succession
and will appreciate your cooperation in minimizing the possibility of
his becoming a factor in the spread of disease.

Fur Eating Habit

Rabbits that eat their own fur or bedding material, or gnaw the fur
on other rabbits, usually do so because the diet is inadequate in quality
or quantity. A common cause is a diet low in fiber or bulk. Sometimes
the protein content of the diet is too low. Adding more soybean,
sorghum, peanut meal or any other legume may correct the defi-
ciency.
The experienced breeder notes the condition of each animal in the
herd and regulates the quantity of feed to meet its individual re-
quirement. Providing good-quality grass or feeding fresh, sound
leguminous feed or rootcrops as a supplement to the home-mix or
pelleted diet also helps to correct an abnormal appetite, or else
remove all feed for 24 hours.
Preventing Fur Block
In cleaning themselves by licking their coats, or when eating fur
from other animals, rabbits swallow some wool or fur which is not
digested. The only noticeable result may be droppings fastened to-
gether by fur fibers. However, if the rabbit swallows any appreciable
amount, it may collect in the stomach and form a "fur block" that
interferes with digestion. If it becomes large enough, it blocks the
alimentary tract and the animal starves. The most satisfactory
method of preventing this is to shear Angoras regularly, and try to
prevent fur eating among your rabbits by providing adequate
roughage and protein in their diets. A block of wood soaked in salt for
three days and hung in the cage for the rabbits to chew may be used to
reduce fur chewing. I

Gnawing Wooden Parts of the Hutch

Gnawing wood is natural for the rabbit. However in excess, it may
indicate insufficient amounts of salt in the diet. Protect wooden parts
of the hutch by placing wire mesh on the inside of the frame when
constructing the hutch or by using strips of tin, galvanized iron, or
flattened cans (make sure there are no rough edges protruding) to
49
61
protect exposed wooden edges. Again, a block of wood soaked in
brine solution and hung in the cage is the best solution.
Rabbits that have access to good quality grass and are receiving
legumes and rootcrops are less likely to gnaw on their hutches.

VARIOUS USES OF RABBIT MANURE

Disposal of Rabbit Manure
Rabbit manure has a high nitrogen content when the rabbits are
fed a well-balanced diet. It will not burn plants and is easy to incorpo-
rate in the soil. It is satisfactory as fertilizer on gardens and when
placed at the bases of flowering plants, shrubbery, and trees. There is
no danger in using it for fertilizing soil on which crops are to be raised
for feeding rabbits if mixed well in the soil or covered.
The value of rabbit manure depends on how it is cared for and
used. There will be less loss of fertilizing elements if the material is
immediately incorporated into the soil. When manure is stored in
piles and exposed to the weather, chemicals are lost through leaching
and heat. Much of this loss can be prevented by keeping the manure
in a compost heap or in a bin or pit(Fig. 25) .

FIGURE 25Compost heap near rabbitry.

First Class Compost Fertilizer

Materials for Compost:
*-- Good quality rice straw-60 kilos or
Kikuya grass (dried or wet)
Rabbit manure (wet) 110 liters
Ammonium Sulphate 2 kilos

50
62
 Rice bran or saw dust 50-100 liters a

Sunflower leaves or any

legume (in green form) 100 kilos
Add a thin layer of soil on top of pile.

Procedure
Gather all the materials. Dampen straw or grass by placing in water
for 1-2 minutes. Pile wet straw and cover to keep moist.
Next, cut straw into pieces 30 cm. long. Place a layer in the bottom
of the hole about 15 cm. thick. Sprinkle in 1/5 of rabbit manure, 1/5 of
rice bran or grass, and 115 of ammonium sulphate. Place another' 15
cm. layer of straw, another 115 of rabbit manure, 1/5 of rice bran, and
115 of ammonium sulphate. Repeat the process until all ingredients
have been used up. Cover the pile with grass or pieces of G.I. shed
metal.
From time to time, turn the pile. In three to four weeks the compost
is ready for use.
FIGURE 26
DESIGN FOR COMPOST

TOP COVER

:36 cm.

AMMONIUM SULPHATE
RICE BRAN 45 cm.
RABBIT MANURE
STARTING
POINT CUT STRAW OR GRASS

GROUND LEVEL
NOTE:
In the absence of rice straw or kikuyu grass, use locally available
materials such as banana trunks and leaves or any grass that can
easily decay.

Methane Generator
In view of the emerging and continuing energy crisis our country
51

63
 t
faces today, the need for the literature on the construction of a
methane generator as a source of fuel is of great demand. Methane
produced from animal manure could be a cheap, convenient and
continuous source of energy for cooking, running a 3-horsepower
engine, a small family-size refrigerator and/or even lighting in the
home.
4
Construction of Methane Generator
A methane generator is made up of two compartments (excava-
tions): a digester with an inverted gas holder and an effluent (Figure
27). The manure from the latter is fed daily into the machine. After
the start of operation, the production of methane is continuous.
COG
.,I

1.83 x 1.83 .90

.30 x .30 x 30 DEEP

C4

4" CHB RETAINING WALL

CA. NO. 18 PLAIN G.I.

CAS HOLDER

MANURE
4
8"
-TRAP
CONCRETE
PIPE
MAX.
DISTANCE
OVERFLOW 1,--4
50'

DIGESTER

FIGURE 27- LAYOUT PLAN OF A METHANE GAS GENERATOR

52
64
0
 The digester is an excavation consisting of inner and outer walls
made of 4-inch or 10 cm. concrete hollow blocks with a water seal in
betw- een them at least 10 cm. wide. The cement used should be mixed
with "Sahara", a water proofing agent, and the mixture added in the
usual way to (or with) the aggregate (sand and gravel) for filling up
the hollow blocks. The inner side of the outer hollow block wall is also
plastered with cement mixed with a water-proofing agent. The inner
surface of the inner hollow block wall is plastered in like manner. In
addition to these, the cement pipes leading to and from the digester
are plastered with cement and water proofing agent at their junction
with the water seal to ensure that the water in the water seal does not
leak through these pipe's. The water seal may be filled up partly with
sand since the gas holder does not go all the way down.
The intake cement pipe should enter the digester at as steep an
angle as possible. The effluent 8-inch pipe is placed at an almost
horizontal but preferably downward direction from the digester to-
wards the effluence compartment. Sufficient depth should be left
below the intake pipe for sedimentation of the Manure entering the
digester; hence, the intake pipe should not be lower than' I liner&
from the bottom.
The inverted tank forming the gas holder is made of an 18 gauge
galvanized iron sheet 1.83 m x 1.83 m and 0.91 m high. The gas
holder is first rust-proofed with red lead paint and then given one or ..,
two coatings of black paint. A 1/2 inch G.I. pipe with a gate valve is
welded on top at one corner of the gas holder. Four 3/s inch iron rings
are also welded at each of the four top corners of the gas holder to
facilitate its removal for cleaning.
The effluent compartment can be any shape and dimension. It can
also be shallower than the manure (digester) compartment. Care
should be taken, however, to have the outlet pipe in the effluence
compartment higher than the effluence pipe of the digester (or
manure) compartment to prevent the escape of the gas through this
outlet. a
To start operation, the digester compartment is filled with manure
as fast as possible up to and over the level of the effluent pipe. It is
recommended that as soon as the digester compartment is filled,
sludge from other successful digesters should be added (inoculated)
to hasten the process. Even without sludge from successful digesters,
the system will eventually generate methane but it might take 3-4
weeks instead of 2 weeks for gas to be Oath:iced when sludge is
added. As soon as the digester is filled With manure and inoculated
with sludge, the gas holder is placed into the double walled digester
l
compartment. The proportion of methane gas increases with time.
65 53
(Used engine oil may be added on top of the water to prevent it from
evaporating from the double wall). The valve on top of the gas holder
is then turned on, and the gas flows through a 1/4" G.I. pipe to
wherever it will be used within a maximum distance of 50 meters.
U-traps are provided along the pipe line to collect condensations of
water which might otherwise block the pipeline. The free end of the
U-trap should be lower than the gas line.
The manure of as few as 3 pigs weighing an average of 115 kilo-
grams can maintain gas production for the larger model for as long as
manure is fed continuously into the digester.
lt is desirable to have an alternate outlet for liquids coming from
the pig house since the passage of large quantities of water through
the digester particularly during rainy season somehow allows the as
in the gas holder to escape through the effluent of the digester.
BILL OF MATERIALS FOR METHANE DIGESTER .

1.80 x 1.80 m. gas bolder for Figure 27

5 pcs. 4' x 8' plain G.I. sheet gauge 18
465 pcs. 4- x 8" x 16- CHB
12 pcs. 7 mm bars x 20'
25 bags Cement .4

1 cu. rn. Gavel

2 cu. m. Sand
3 pcs. 8" concrete pipe
24 bf. wood lid
2 kg. tie wire
10 boxes Sahara waterproof compound
18 cu. m. Excavation

This methane gas generator plan can be utilized with any type of
animal manure including rabbit manure.

Earthwofms in the Rabbitry

1.
Where earthworms are active throughout the year as in warm
climates, they may he used to advantage under rabbit hutches to save
labor in removing fertilizer. Make bins the same length and width as
the hutch and 30 cm deep for confining the worms. Place the bins on
the ground, not on solid floors, and keep the fertilizer moist to insure
that the worms can work, throughout the bin.
Earthworms convert the rabbit droppings into castsa convenient
form of fertilizer. if you keep a large population of worms, there will
be no objectionable odor. In addition very few flies will bred in the
bins. It is necessary to remove the manure only at a to 6 months
intervals. This is especially conducive to areas which have porous soil.
54
66
I
 .
TYPES OF PRODUCTION
Fryer. Production
A fryer or young rabbit carcass usually weighs not less than 1.7 kilos
and should be from 34-4 months old so that the pelt is of prime "
quality to warrant tanning.
A kilo of marketable fryer (dressed weight) will need 5.7 kilos of
commercial concentrates from birth to marketing age. It takes'about
82.8 kilos of commercial concentrates to sustain a doe and her litter of
6-8, from breeding of the doe to marketing of the'young at 34-4
months of age. This is in addition to roughage and root crops given
daily (about 1-14 kilos total per day).
At 45 days to 24 months, the bunnies are weaned from the doe
and separated by sexes to allow for the next breeding. if the young
are kept with the doe for over 21/4 months, her milk supply it ill
diminish to a level where the next kindling would not have a sufficient
quantity.
Learn to castrate the bucks that are not intended for breeding stock
to insure less quarreling amongst the bunnies held in colony. Castra-
tion demands much time, skill, and patience but, it is the only method
to insure top quality meat and fur. It also maximizes space and feed. -
Growth from 1 day to 2 months old is extremely fast so, be sure to
give enough good quality feed in both roughage and concentrates to
insure proper development.
Breeder Production
Breeder production is similar to fryer production. Breeders should
.
be obtained from good producing does and have excellent looks,
good performance, docile personalities, good conformation such as
stocky body, stub nose, short ears, and alert eyes and be excellent
consumers of feed.
Since these will be used as breeding stock, special care must be
given to their diet because negligence will res it in deterioration,
thus, propagating undesirable traits for genera ons to come. Select
the future breeders as early as one month old. ,

Secure initial breeding stock from REL1ABILE farms where re-

cords are available for your analysis. in the absence of records, utilize
the observation signs listed above to determine feeder quality. in the
long run, it will pay to purchase the better quali/y breeder rather than
the less expensive one that does not meet the recommended observa-
tion signs of breeder quality.
Roaster Productioin
A roaster or mature rabbit is a mature or old domestic rabbit
carcass of any weight and has usually outgroWn its produttivity. You
can fatten a roaster in 2 or ti weeks to allow' him to gain weight and
55
67
,
improve fur quality.
It is doubtful if such production would be more profitable than that
of rabbits of fryer weight.
Angora Rabbit Wool Production
Angora rabbits are raised primarily for wool production (Fig. 28).
In the Philippines this industry has not yet been developed although
it is waiting for exploitation by any venturesome individual. The
highlands: i.e. cooler 'climate, is the most conducive to raising this
breed of rabbit.
Angoras grow to a length of .0625 m. to .0875 each 3 months, or
approximately .025 per month. You can shear 14 to 15 ounces of wool
a year from a mature Angora that is not nursing young. This wool is
valued for its softness, warmth, and strength. It is used in blends with
other fibers in the manufacture of children's clothing, sport clothes,
garment trimmings, etc. Used alone it is usually too light and fluffy,
besides, blends create better tensile strength and durability.
There are two main types of Angora rabbitsthe English and the
French. Present standards of the American Rabbit Breeders Associa-
tion, however, make English and French types of wool synonymous.
It is difficult to distinguish the English Angora rabbits from the
French when they are cross-bred. The choice is largely a matter of
personal preference. The typical French Angora usually is larger
than the English. The wool fiber of the French is shorter and coarser
than that of the English, but the wool yield is greater. Due to competi-
tion with other natural and synthetic fibers and competition with
'imported Angora rabbit wool, the market price is generally low.
Therefore, it is advisable to use the Angora as a TRIPLE PURPOSE
ANIMAL for nleat, for improvement of fur quality of other breeds
by cross breeding, which is presently being undertaken, and for wool
production. Cross breeding Angoras with otherbreeds has proven
beneficial both for better meat and fur production. The commercial
Angora weighs at least 8 pounds and is being bred more and more to
improve its meat quality.
,,
Keep herd bucks and does in individual hutches. Keep woolers-
does and castrated bucks maintained primarily for wool
productionin groups-or colonies to save labor. Castration of bucks
that ate to be reserved for wool ,production may reduce fighting in
the herd but wool production is not increased by castration.
Feed and. care for Angoras is the same as for other breeds. Because
of their long wool, however, you must handle Angoras to find out
how much flesh they are carrying; determine the amount of flesh by
running the hand along the backbone. Reduce or increase the quan-
tity of feed to keep the animal in healthy condition.
56

68
 C,At .,1 -11

1:7

FIGURE 28Angora rabbit.

Angoras are generally sheared or plucked every 10 to 11 weeks
though some producers pluck their animals monthly and some at
intervals beyond 3 months.
Wool should be harvested prior to breeding to prevent mauling
and soiling the wool.
To prevent internal parasite infestation and to keep wool clean (i.e.
unstained by urine, etc.), install wire mesh floors in the pens and
CLEAN DAILY.
A properly constructed manger for grass and legumes, or the use
of a hopper, protects the wool from foreign matter and prevents
contamination of feed. It is to be noted, however, that it is harder to
breed Angoras than othersbreeds because of the concealment of their
genitals due to the length of fur. The caretaker needs to assist in
mating by holding the doe's tail upward while the buck mounts.-
You will need the following equipment for grooming and shearing:
A table, waist-high, with a .30 x .60 top covered with carpet or a
feed sack to keep the rabbit from slipping and equipped with castors
to allow eas turning. A table equipped with straps or cords for
restraining the rabbit is advantageous.
A hairbrush %s it h single steel :sties set in rubber, for brushing
and removing foreign material from wool.
A pair of barber's scissors.
A ruler for measuring the length of wool.
Containers for storing wool.
Grooming
Commercial woofers require little, if any, grooming between shear-
57
sp
ing provided they are properly cared for and sheared every 10 to 12
weeks. If you allow the coat to grow for ailonger period, the fibers
may become webbed, tangled, or matted.
For grooming, place the rabbit on the table. Part the wool down the
middle of the back. Brush one side, stroking downward. As you reach
the end of the wool, brush upward and outward to remove all foreign
material. Make another part in the wool about half an inch farther
down the side. Repeat the operation until the job is completed.
Groom the other side the same way. .

For grooming the head, front legs, and belly place the rabbit on its
back in your lap. HoldI
itsI hindquarters gently but firmly between
your knees. Separate small areas of wool and groom the way you did
the sides.
For grooming the hind legs, place therabbit on its back in your lap.
Hold the head and front feet under the left arm. Use your left hand to
hold the rabbit's hind legs.
Shearing
Before shearing, cut off all stained ends of wool. Place the back of
the scissors against/the rabbit's body to preven t cutting the skin. Begin
at the rump and/Shear a strip about an inch wide to the neck. Repeat
this operation until you, have _removed all the wool from one side.
Turn the rabbit around and repeat the shearing operation on the
other side, starting at the' neck and shearing toward the rump. For
shearing the head, front legs, belly, and hind legs, restrain the rabbit
as for grooming. Separate small areas of wool and shear the way you
did the sides. Do not injure the doe's teats. Do not shear wool from the
belly of a pregnant doe. After shearing, lightly brush the rabbit to
straighten out the wool fibers and prevent the formation of mats.
Take care not to include the flesh while shearing.
Grading, Preparing, and Marketing Wool
Lable a container for each grade of wool and place it ,near the
shearing table. Grade the wool as sheared, following the usual com-
mercial grades.
Plucked wool:
Super .0825 or longer
No. 1 .075 or longer
No. 2 .05 or longer

Sheared wool:
\o. 1 .057 to .075
No. 2 .038 to .05
No. 3 .025 to .038
Shorts .0125 to .019 (may be slightly webbed)

58
-.--.....

70
 No. 4 Matted
No. 5 Stained and unclean

While the above have been the usually acceptable commercial

grades for Angora rabbit wool, some grading systems 'have been
simplified to the extent that only three grades are considered: No.
Idean wool; No. 2clean mats; and No. 3all other wool, includ-
in g soiled wool.
Put each grade in a separate paper bag not too tightly packed. Tie
the bags and place them in sacks or corrugated boxes for shipment.
If the wool is to be stored, store it in a dry place. To protect the wool
from moths, put mothballs or moth crystals in a small sack before
placing this in the container with the wool.
Some Angora breeders spin the wool on an old-fashioned spinning
wheel and knit the yarn into garments for home use or for sale.
Others sell the wool to organizations or individuals who collect large
quantities for sale to mills.
Rabbit wool production needs to be developed in the Philippines.
We included Angora wool production in this handbook, specifically,
for future reference of any innovative individuals.

MARKETING RABBITS
Marketing is the number one problem with rabbit raisers in the
Philippines today. In theory, the demand is great considering the
current population explosion and world wide food shortages. In
actuality, the demand for rabbit meat is either too high or too low for
the rabbit producers to supply.
Presently, the lack of statistical data concerning the feasibility or the
marketability of rabbit meat plagues the backyard and commercial
rabbit entrepreneur. Hopefully, in the future, with the involvement
of national government agencies and private organizations in rabbit
production as an alternative protein source, there will be studies
conducted on the various potentials and/or detriments of this field
for the entrepreneur to utilize as guidelines. Until these needed
studies are conducted, we truely are pioneers in the field of rabbit
production.
Marketing prospects should he located and developed promptly
when one engages in rabbit production. The FIRST market for meat
is the family, neighbors, towns and cities within the locality. Rabbit
meat can then he sold in dressed form to hotels, restaurants, super-
markets, and open markets. Rabbit barbecue can be sold by sidewalk
vendors. But if we are to succeed at all we must successfully market
the [DEA of eating rabhit meat to ALL strata oft he population . . .not
59
...
71
only to the middle and upper class but, to the strata that compose the
majority of the populace .. .the grass roots. WE must in fact convince
ourselves before convincing others!
By-products of rabbits such as fur, tails, paws, and manure are
certainly added income. In fact, more money will be made in market-
ing by-products than in the sale of meat alone.
REMEMBER: YOU and your community are the FIRST and
BEST market before expanding sales to hotels, restaurants, etc.

Cutting and Packaging Rabbit Meat

After slaughtering the animal (see later chapter on simplified tan-
ning) and washing the carcass thoroughly, hang it to drain. Wipe
excess water with a clean cloth and pack meat attractively in a cel-
lophane hag. Record weight on the bag with a pentel pen (Fig. 29, A
and B).

111Mliw-

FIGURE 29lnexpenswe meat packaging method:

A. Fold hind legs into chest cavil leaving liver and kidneys exposed.
Chill the carcass in a refrigerated cooler. Arrange the carcass
on a cooling rack so that moderate air movements and suitable
temperature within the cooler will reduce the internal temperature of
the carcass to no less than 2.22°C and to no more than 4.44°C within
24 hours.
Hanging by the hind legs fir chilling may cause a carcass to be
drawn out of shape so that the pieces will not fit satisfactorily into a
cartoon. Some processors chill carcasses in wire trays, arranging them
so the pieces will be of a proper shape for Packaging.
Hotels, restaurants, hospitals, clubs. and other establishments usu-
60 72
 ft&

T.

at

irr,r,l_
FIGURE 29 B. Place in cellophane bag FIGURE 30Common cuts of rabbit
and record weight. meat.
ally purchase the whole carcass with the liver intact. Their chefs
prefer to cut them to meet their own requirements. Housewives
usually prefer the cut-up packaged product. Cut up the fryer rabbit
with a knife; using a cleaver may splinter the bones. Common cuts
from fryer carcasses are illustrated in figure 30; in large commercial
processing plants, a bandsaw is used. For sale in supermarkets, a
parafined box with a cellophane window makes a neat, sanitary
package for the chilled rabbit carcass. If the package is to be handled
considerably or the meat is to be frozen, use a box without the
cellophane window, but wrap the meat or the box in a special wrap-
ping to prevent freezer burns and loss in palatability.
A box 22 1/2 'Om long, 10 mm wide, and .164 deep is suitable for a
fryer carcass weighing 750 grams to 950 grams. Again arrange the cut
attractively. Include the heart, kidneys, and liver.
If you sell to the home trade or furnish butchers with meat that is to
be consumed locally, a cellophane bag will suffice or you can make a
neat, sanitary, and inexpensive package by arranging the pieces of
fryer and a sprig of parsley on a paper plate and covering them with
a piece of dear cellophane or other wrapping materials.

Crating and Shipping Live Rabbits

You can ship rabbits almost any distance with safety, if they are in
good condition, properly crated, and provided with food and water.
61
73
Do not ship them in extremely hot or cold weather. Always use
well-ventilated crates that are long enough to permit the rabbit to lie
down. Use straw for bedding. Crates with slanting tops discourage
stacking. Consult the quarantine laws in your area (Fig. 31).

-r

FIGURE 3 1(Left) bag with holes for transporting rabbits short distancesup to 24
hours. (Right) crate with grass manger in the center for long distances.

Put only one animal in each compartment of the shipping crate.

Animals to be in transit 24 hours or less need only a small quantity of
feed and water. I ft he trip is longer, more feed and water are needed.
It is wise to attach to each crate a bag of feed and a printed request to
feed and water the animals once a day. Plenty of fresh water and feed
should be accessible to the rabbits at all times. For rabbits in transit,
use the type of feed given in the rabbitry. As an alternative, any root
crop or vegetable such as sayote placed in the crate will provide
enough feed and moisture for several days travel, and eliminates the
possibility of spilling feed and water supplied in containers.
Label the crate clearly, advising against exposing the animals to sun
or rain. Notify the purchaser when rabbits are shipped.
You can make shipping crates from packing boxes. It: is good
business, however, and effective advertising, to ship rabbits in clura-
He crates that are neatly built, light weight and attractive. Furnish
ample space in each compartment and be sure that wire 'letting keeps
the rabbits from gnawing the wood.

How to Assess Sales Prospects

To find out how your product will sell, gather and analyze the
following information.
62 74 ...
 1

Basic
I. Geographical information. Area of country, the terrain, the
climate, distance between main population centers. Things that will
influence demand for your product. In other words ..."who needs
it?"
2. Population. What is its size, age range, and concentration?
3. Income. What is the level of income, who has the income (dis-
tribution) and who might need your product?
4. Natural resources. Is it limited or not yet developed? (this is
especially important in determining earnings from staple agricul-
tural and other products.)
5. Industrial development. What is the extent and stage of indus-
trial development plans at present and for the future? Amount of
foreign investment?
Market Potential
1. Demand: What is the current and future demand for the pro-
duct?
2. Domestic production: Who is now making the product, where
are they located, and what are their plans for future expansiork?
3. Imports for product: Increasing, decreasing? Need information
on imports by volume, value, and country or origin.
4. Dominant price range for the quality: choose the range with the
largest potential sales.
5. What are the prices for the importer? the wholesaler? the re-
tailer?
6. Is there market control by traditional suppliers? Acceptability of
new products by buyer's=
Market Requirements
1. Need to conform to a standard or grade and a procedure for
approval of grading system.
2. Special packaging because of climate, ship conditions, govern-
ment regulations or local tastes and prejudices.
Distributions
1. How much markup and commission is expected fcir im-
porterintanufacturer/commission/agent/distributOrietc.?
2. Normal distribution patterns.
3. One firm with exclusive distribution rights or several representa- Ow

tives in various locations=

4. One large shipment or several smaller ones to meet quota.
5. Advertising support= Source=
Sales Promotion
1. What media arc available 14 iidvertising the product?
63
75
 newspaper/magazines/radith.vicinema/word of mouth?
2. What is the cost of advertising? Which would give the most
benefit for the cost?
S. Where are there suitable trade fairs/exhibits to display rabbits?
Cost of participation.
4. What forms of advertising do customers respond to best?

The Economics of Rabbit Production

Every rabbit raiser is a businessman whether he raises a few or a
hundred rabbits. For success, he must put motley, time, and talent
into the project for some expected return. Economists describe this
business operation in this way:

COSTSI N PUTS RETURNSOUTPUTS

1. Land and huilding 1. Livestock
2. Hutches. watering 2. Rabbit meat
and feeder troughs. 3. Rabbit by-products
3. Feeds it. fur
4. Other overhead. b. paws
. c. tails
d. manure
1.) Fertilizer
2j Methane gas

/ Rabbit production is one backyard industry that promises a bright

future. Why? Because almost 99 per cent of the rabbit is usefulthe
meat for fbod, the fur fbrclot hing, paws and tails for trinkets, and the
manure for soil improvement and for new energy source ...bio or
methane gas.
The returns from rabbit raising vary front place to place and from
time to time. So rabbit producers may either expand or close down
wir projects on the basis of local and national demands.
However, rabbits are perhaps the most economical and profitable
of all kinds of livestock. They can uf ilize inferior feeds and still
provide quality meat and fur. Moreover, with a better quality feeding
program, they can increase bunny production thus allowing a higher
profit margin for the producer.
A good rabbit raiser strives to raise as many bunnies as possible
frOm one doe within a' year or during her productive life. Good
management includes the wise selection of initial breeding stock and
t he determination of how much time and capital is to be invested in'
the project. It also includes good care of the does, bucks, bunnies and
paying alert attention to housing, cages, sanitation, and record keep-
ing.

64
..
76
 Here is an example of profit potential for one doe and a kindling of
six bunnies..
1. At 4 months of 6 fryers are slaughtered 6 kilos @ P12.00/K . 72.00
2. Furtanned skins sold 6 fryers @ P6.00 36.00
3. Manure-1/3 of to..al feed 82 ÷ 3 =
kilos @ P.25 Or about .3. cubic. ft/doe/year 6.75
4. Paws and tails 30 pieces @ P1.20 each 36.00
GROSS TOTAL 1> 150.75
Minus cost of commercial feed @ P-/K 99.00
NET GAIN V 51.75
(for one doe)

ff bunnies are all sold live at 4 months of age the Following computation is
iipplicable:
1. Six bunnies @ P40.00 each P" 24(6) (7)
2. 11a pure
GROSS IOTAI. ' 246.75
Minus cost of conintercial feed (see above) 99.00
Ni.."1- PROFIT 1" 147.75

SIMPLIFIED TANNING
The safest method for (arming rabbit skins is to send the skins to
one who specializes in this work, but if home-curing is to be attempted
the following procedure if correctly done should produce perfect
pelts. Belm-e anyone ever thinks about tanning, he should have
enough pelts to tan to warrant his time, talent and money. The skins
to be tanned must be of good quAt. And good quality skins come
from healthy rabbits which are the result of good management. Skins
of molting rabbits are not good pelts for tanning. It is a waste of time,
talent, and money to try to tan them.
1. Slaughtering
Do not feed the rabbits the day before butchering them, because
much of the. skins arc either wasted or saved during the cutting
process. The butcher should know how to butcher the rabbits. In
order.to skin a rabbit properly one should first suspend the rabbits by
its hind legs securely facing the butcher. With his left hand the
butcher holds the head firmly and in his right hand, he holds a sharp
kttif c. His left hand then pulls down the rabbit with a jerk to break its
neck and then his right hand cuts with the knife just behind the head
to drain the blood. When the blood is drained, continue the cutting
'ttcross the back of the head down to the tip of the jaw including all of
he thick fur_covering the neck and jaw (Fig 32 ). Next the butcher
65
77
 0-...01).

FIGURE 32Witli a sharp knife cut from: the neck to the tip of the jaw.

et,

'4

FIGURE 33Make a slit down the back or both hocks.

cuts with the knife, a slit down hock at the back and then down the
other hock (Fig. 33 ). At this point he should loosen the flesh at the
sides of the hocks with his fingers preparatory to skining the carcass.
Cut the tail at its base (Fig. 34) and also the two front legs above the
joints at least half an inch high. With two hands pull the skin down the
carcass until the skin is palled oil whole like a sock. immediately
afterwards, soak the skin, tail, and feet in the soap solution.
Nfeanwhile, make a slit on the rabbit's flesh from the rectum (Fig.
35), down to the breast, taking care not to puncture the intestines
(Fig. 3(i). Remove the entrails. Wash the meat and hang it to air. The
(16
last step is to wash the skin thoroughly with soap and again in clear
water to remove all the, blood and dirt. Gently squeeze the skin
between your hands. Never-twist or wring the skin. Drain to remove
the water.
of ^

rw

e
v-t
-ort.

FIGURE 34Cut the tail at the base.

V

p.

ye

r.

FIGURE 36Cut the stomach and

FIGURE 35With the knife open the remove the entrails starting with the
anus region 10 start the removal of the urine sat. Make sure urine dikes not spill
entrails. On meat.
00

67
 2. Curing the Skin .

First, soak the skins in highly concentrated salLsolution for one

night. The next day, squeeze the water from the skin but again do not
twist. Salt thoroughly the flesh side of the skins (1 k salt per pelt, Fig.
37). From time to time examine the skins to see if any portion is not
covered with the salt. Rub more salt on any uncovered portion. Poor
salting will result in the later dropping off of the fur.

'
..y
Mt
't. .\ : 't ...- 4
A. qa-

OP f . .: ..,41 t

41
1,0-
1 41. ',,
. : ... 'at .r
OAS

A .19
0" 7.;

,-4.4mmi.. 1

thaimint ._40 t .

FIGURE :37Salting the skin throughly. Poor salting results in hair falling off.
3. Dehairing
If von desire rabbit hide without the fur, by-pass the procedure No.
2 "Curing the Skin- (salting) <ind follow the steps enumerated below
for 5-10 pelts.
a. Wash the pelts well in soap solution.
\b. Prepare 50() grains of lime or ash and place or pour the same
into a plastic container filled with 2 gallons of lukewarm water.
c. Stir the mixture.
l. Drop the pelts into the solution and squeeze them.
e. leave the pelts lOr 24 hours or until the skins are ready fOr
I
dehairing.
Dehair the pelts and wash with 100 grams of tide and 50 grams
of borax several times until the pelts are completely dehaired.
g. Squeeze the water from the pelts and defies]] very carefull the
inside part of the skins.
h. Place the skins in the tanning solutionyou are ready to pro-
ceed to actual !alining.-
4. Actual Tanning
fieiktre deticshiug %.otir skins. prepare the tanning solutions which
tiH

CSC
 i
are made up of two parts, namely:
a. In a pail dissolve 500 grams of powdered alum in one gallon of
warm water.
b. In another pail dissolve 250 grams of salt and 125 grams of soda
in a half gallon of warm water.
c. 60 cc formalin. ,
When these solutions are dissolved, slowly pour the salt-soda solu-/
tion into the alum solution at the same time stirring with a wooden
spoon or paddle. While waiting for the mixed solution to cool off,
de flesh your skins to be tanned. Defleshing is one of the hardest p fts
of tanning. It is done by starting from the back portion of the skin nd
slowly working the flesh off in a circular pattern (Fig. 38). Wh n all
the skins are &fleshed, immerse them into he tanning solution for
three to thirty days. Stir the skins three times a day since the chemicals
separate and settle to the bottom of the pail.
V
.

et

I
fr
r
.0.

FIGURE 38Defleshing is done by starting from the back portion or the skin and
working in a circular pattern.

5. Washing and Oiling

When the skins are tanned. wash them in soft water. Begin with
water that had been mixed with lxwax to remove the tanning chemi-
cals (one spoonful to a gallon), then wash several more times in plain
clear water. Press and squeeze out the water but do not twist or wring
the skins.
Stretch the skins on a V-shaped. 1.50 m long piece of No. 9 gal-
vanized iron wire covered with plastic to prevent rusting. The fur
should be inside and the flesh facing out. When this is done, apply
69
81
coconutor olive oil thinly and evenly on the skins (see oiling formula
below)(Fig. 39).. If either olive or coconut oil is notavailable, use 100
cc of any type that is procurable and will not turn rancid. If only one
of the recommended is available, use 100 cc for the oiling process. To
dry, hang the skins in the sl'aded place not under the direct sunlight
(Fig. 40).
When the skins are about 95
per cent dried, start working or
kneading them. Stretching or
buffing the skins until they are as
soft as linen handkerchiefs may
t")
take _hours (Fig. 11). This is also
one of the most .critical parts of
the tanning process. Negligence
can never be repaired. the more
you buff the skins the better.
Wheri the skins are well dried and
soft and are ready for use, pow-
der them with talcum.
Oiling Formula
250 cc..water 4 (so
300 grams borax _AM&
50 cc olive oil
50 cc coconut oil FIGURE 39Rub a thin layer of oil
90 grams ti medium bath soap solution on the fleshside of the pelt.

\us."_IN,

1-GeRF. 40lity the skin on a U-shaped frame covered with plastic tubing in Ow
%Nide.

70
82
 Dissolve bath soap over fire FIGURE 41Buffing or stretching the
after slicing or shaving it in small pelt.
pieces. Mix remaining ingre-
dients and let cool to lukewarm
temperature. Rub -thin layer ori
skins.
Tanned pelts can be made into MEL
such finished products as bags,
hats, coats, bedspreads, and
shawls. The most-efficient way to
market tanned pelts is to sell
them in whole form, thus,
eliminating overhead costs of
making finished fur products.

Making Charms
from Rabbit
Paws and Tails 51C4

1. Wash paws and tails thor-

oughly in any detergent to
emoVe dirt and blood. Re- .t44.214Ir
move water by squeezing but do not break the bores.
2. In a plastic container, mix 2 liters formalineztnd liter water (2:1).
Soak paws and tails for 3 days or more. After 3 days, when the
bones are hard, the paw and tail are preserved. If the bones are
still soft, leave in the formaline solution longer.
3. 'With a ruhher globe, remove the tails and paws from the for-
maline solution and wash them thoroughly in detergent (borax,
tide, baking soda, or sodium bicarbonate). Take care not to inhale
toxic fumes from the solution.
4. Dry paws and tails on wire mesh or G.I. in the sunshine until
thoroughly dried.
Materials
1. Perstop wood glue.
2. Copper u.;re.
3. Hand drill made from .ON nail attached to small piece of wood foi
drilling hole into foot.
4. Cup containing water.
5. Key chains.

83
71
 Procedure
I. Prepare hook by bending copper wire
around a .075 nail to form an eye. Use a
pair of pliers for easy manipulating (Fig.
'
,d
42).
2. Mix glue to a consistency like peanut but-
ter, calculating the needed quantity.
3. Having dried the tails and feet
thoroughly,. chop or cut the exposed
bone with a sharp bolo to remove rough
edges.
4. With the homemade hand drill, make a
hole in the center of the bone about 1 cm
to 11/2 cm deep (Fig. 43).

5. Spoon just enough glue with the pointed

stick into the drilled hole (Fig. 44).
.4.

r4,, .m

6. Insert hook up to the neck of its eye (Fig.

45).

7. Dip your index finger intc. the glass of

water and smooth the mound of glue
around the hook and edges of the paw or
tail (Fig. 46).

A 8. Put fool and tail upright in a welded wire

rack or cartoon. Let stand in sun with
glue is hardened (Fig. 47).

72
84
 9. When glue is dried, place a key chain
through the eye of the hook. It is now a
41. completed product (Fig. 48).
10. If you have many completed paws and
tails, link them together in strands,and
place in a cellophane bag to protect them
from dirt and dust.
11. Bring them to market.
In places where the demand for artificial rabbit tails is economically
feasible for 1)1.0(111,60n or to produce them, the following instruc-
tions utilizes trimmings and good quality tanned pelts for their con-
struction. Artificial tails are relatively inexpensive to' purchase
comparison to the cost of one pelt, thus, the ,market is open to allall
strata of the population.

Making Artificial Rabbit Tails

Materials
----Two inch length of stick (this length Of stick will serve as the
'bone. so it should be ',is wide as. von want the finished lair to be.)
Otte rabbit hide. slit down the center of the stomach or you can
use remnant pieces of hide.
One razor blade (single edge is safer and provides more con t rol.)
One can of Rugby contact cement.
Paint thinner (to clean glue from lingers.)
Wood glue (pet top powdered glue).
Otte .075 nail.
One inch length of copper wire.
--One rack which will allow the finished product to dry in .,in
upright position.
Paper and pen.
READ ALL S'I FPS Ell RS 1 RE.FORE PROCEEDING
I _()...i
R 11 p.c.( e ol lic.tvN 'paper ii his will scrvt ;is our
i

My, panci 0) -4001.1m1 the .05 siick 1 riline. Make a 1 cm

ir.1 hol in (Me eild 01 thy Iriime with a .05 nail. where
% ou will Lucy hiscrt 1 he copper wire hook i Fig. -19).

r.

II up \Like I It letigtli of ibis plici ti .06-1 (the extra

.0125 vill hang of 1 thectul oh lie .05 slick Ironic it)
; ... ; t .... t L. 11141 IA .1 TiOsrn!lii :Ihilli 13i1 i HP.. 501,
U tic uoitt

73
 3. Mark the exact point where the two ends of the
pattern meet when wrapped around the frame.
(this is the width of the pattern).
4. Cut the pattern at the exact width of the frame.
5. Lay pattern on inside of pelt and trace the pattern
onto the pelt in such a way so that the direction of
the fur will end up running smoothly down to-
ward the end of the "tail" (Fig. 51).

6. Then take your pen and ruler and retrace the

pattern with a more heavily defined dotted line.
Make sure your width is exact to avoid overlap
(Fig. 52)!

Top
7. Before you actually cur the hide keep in mind t hat
you do not want to cut the fur :..only the hide,
except along the edge that will eventually be the
top of your rabbit's tail (STUDY 1LLUSTRA-
-HON) (Fig. 53).
Bottom
View of hide from
skin side up

8. Nae take your razor blade. (preferably single

ed ge) tittl slowh cut out the pattern (Caution here
because it is very easy to slip and cut yourself' and
damage the fur) (Fig. 54).

9. With out finger, smooth some Rugb contact

cement Onto the inside of this cut pelt. (Do not get
cement On kW!) (Fig. 55).

4,..1410/124111:, Jiff,

I
If IV
W*: 10. With out finger. smooth a thin layer of' Rugln
contact cement onto the 05 or .038 stick frame
also (Fig. 561.

74 86
 11. -Let these two glued surfaces sit until almost dry-
about 20-30 minutes.( You can clean your fingers
with the paint thinner while you wait.) (Fig. 57).
4-1..

Top
tb' Hole in frame
2"
stick 12. Slowly and carefully place the stick frame on the
frame pelt as illustrated (Fig. 58).
1/2-
excess Bottom

13. Roll skin onto frame evenly. If you cut the pelt-
accurately the ends will be flush with each other
'4 (not overlapping). If the pelt is too short, try
stretching it with your fingers so it will reach (Fig.
';:4t444- 59).
L

14. This photo shows a lilt that has nut been' cm

accurateh resulting in overlap ...somohing hest
to avoid (Fig. 60).

15. The .0125 excess in len gt h hangs from the hits tom
to create the illusion of a tail which you can help hy
gently molding the "excess'. pelt with your fingers
(Fig. 61).
16. Mix a small amount of the Pet-stop Powdei cd glue
with it small amount of water so as to make a thick
paste about the consistency of very thick peanut
butter.
17. Using a small pointed stick, appl% this glue to the
top of the pt'oduced (or fake) rabbit taildo not
get the glue on furand form into a small rising
mound as illustrated (Fig. (i2).

Then wet your finger smooth all rough spots

Oil this mound of thick glue. The reason is, this
glue dries yers hard and an jagged edges %vill cut
you easily (Fig. 63).

75
87
 19. Bend the .025 length of copper wire around a
thick nail to form your hook and insert the bent
wire into. the hole of the frame, through the
mound of glue. (Again smooth rough areas with
wet finger.)

20. Put finished rabbit tail into a rack to dry for 24

hours or until the glue hardens (Fig. 65).

A 21. Strands of colored ribbon or crochetted string

*looped through the copper hook add a colorful
touch. Or attach a metal ball chain fastener (Fig.
66).
22. if you have many rabbit tails, link them together
in a long strand and bring them to market.

COOKING RECIPES
Preparing Rabbits for the Table:
Slaughtering and skinning:
The housewife or anyone (in-charge) s houldknow how to dress the
animal.
Cleaning the rabbit:
rinse in cold water to remove hairs
do not leave the carcass in water for more than 30 mines
remove the corn kernal-like scent glands behind the kionevs
disjoint rabbit as preferred
air the meat for a few hours or over night
Cooking the Rabbit:
Rabbits may be cooked in the same manner as chicken or pork.
The usual procedure is to boil in water to tenderize it then fry:
a) to prevent shrinkage
1)) 1 allow for absorption of flour
c) to lessen unfavorable flavor
1. Sweet-sour rabbit:
(Ingredients depends on the supply or availability of desired in-
gredients) such as: green pepper, bamboo shoots, celery, bean spr-
outs, pineapple chunks (canned or fresh), cornstarch, vinegar, oil,
salt, toyu, and water.
2. Fried adobofolloW chicken adobo recipe,
76 88
t:,

Preservation of Rabbits:
Rabbits are preserved to IMPROVE THE TASTE ,
I. Drying -- smolt drying and/or sun drying.
Ingredients ;alt and garlic
2. Tucino (fe every one kilo of rabbit):
2 tsp. salt Vo tsp. salitre
4 tbsp. brown sugar pepper and garlic as desired
Procedure:
I. Mix ingredients together and rub on both sides of meat.
2. Place salted meat in a container and cover.
3. Keep in a cool place (can be cooked after 24 hours).
In drying or tucino, the bones of the rabbit should be removed to
avoid raw centers sinde the salt cannot reach the center of the meat
when rabbits are cured whole. The center does nbt dry as fast as the
outer layer of meat so the meat closest to the bone may decompose
and the bad odor may affect the rest of the meat under process. The
winning feature of tucino is its "flavorful" taste.

Filipino Recipes
Rabbit Estofado , .
Ingredients:
1 kilo rabbit meat
1/2 cup oil
Y2 cup vinegar
4 segments garlic
1/3 cup wine (white)
I bulb and 3 tubes green onion and onion bulbs
1 pkg. vetsin
salt as desired
I tbsp. flour
sugar (brown)as desired
.ft

Procedure: .

I. Rabbit cut in desired sizes.

2. Marinate the rabbit meat in vinegar, wine, sugar, vetsin, toyo,
sliced garlic, salt for I or 2 hours.
3. Fry the m;A:
4. Boil thefried meat in the sauce where it had been soaked until
meat is tender enough, drop the sliced onions (green and bulb).
'5. Stir in the soaked flour'in water.
6. Taste before idkitig ii flows Llic flit.
77

.8y
 Rabbit Calderetta
ingredients:
1/2 cup margarine
A cup water
3 tbsp. flour
cup (coconut milk or can evaporated milk, 1 small can)
1

3 quartered onions
cari tomato sauce (small can)
1

can (small) peas or green olives

1

4 potatoes (regular size) cut in cubes

piece laurel leaf
1 -
2 kg. rabbit cut in serving pieces
Ito tsp. salt
little vinegar
;t-, 1 red sweet pepper 42 m. and two small hot peppers
1 clove garlic crushed
1 tbsp. vetsin, little toy()

Procedure:
Marinate the rabbit Meat with the little vinegar, salt and toyo and
set aside. Saute the crushed garlic, onions and tomato sauce with
margarine. PM in the rabbit meat and simmer until half done with the
coconut cream or Milk. Add the potatoes, laurel leaf and pepper until
cooked. When clime add the peas (crushed hot pepper) and vetsin.
Add flour to thicken the sauce.

Omba
Ingredients: .
1kilo rabbit
1/2 cup vinegar
1/2 cup sugar ..
salt to taste
1/2 Cup so% sauce
1 small package vetsin. spices (garlic, ottio)ks)
I tbsp. lard ..,,
1 green pepper
1 cup water

Procedure
Brown the rabbit meat in a small amount of lard. Add water,
vinegar, so% sauce, vetsin and spices. Chop onions and-green pepper.
Sintakr uriii'. iiicai is cooke::. Sci-vc :ill v:air friend::!
78
90
Puchero Nga Cunejo
Ingredients:
2 potatoes
Y4cabbage
1 eggplant
6 tomatoes
2 pieces "saba"
1 onion
2 cloves garlic
1 tsp. salt
VI cup lard
Vi kilo rabhit (soaked in vinegar and water for I hour)
Procedure:
S.iute garlic in lard, remove garlic.
Saute onions and tomatoes. Add rabbit and salt to taste, let cook for
about 5 minutes. Add small amount of water and boil for 5 minutes.
Add more water and diced potatoes and cook until potatoes and
"saha- are soft. Then add chopped cabbage and quartered eggplant.
Cook until vegetables are tender. Salt to taste. Serve hot.

Rabbit Snaffu
Ingredients:
1 kg. cuhed rabhit meat
1 clove garlic
1' medium sized onioft
1A kg. potatoes
1 medium sized can tomato sauce
3 spoonful] wine
toy() or pads
black pepper
salt, water ...

Procedure:
Remove peelings of garlic-, crush. Slice the onions to diced size.
Cube potatoes. Fix all ingredients and cook um ' tender.

Barbecue Rabbit
Ingredients:
'A dove of onion
small head of garlic
black pepper
cut) so% sauce
79

91
 1/4cup vinegar
% kilo rabbit meat 0
1 tbsp. wine
Procedure:
Cut the onion into slices and then dice the garlic and pepper. Then
prepare a clean basin and place the meat into it. Marinate the slices of
onion, garlic, and pepper. Add the soy sauce and vinegar. Place the
meat over an open fire.

intei-national Recipes
Rabbit Salad
Ingredients:
2 cups diced cooked rabbit meat
1/4 cup chopped sweet pickle
1/2 cup chopped celery
1tbsp. chopped onion
1/2 cup diced cooked potatoe (optional)
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. lemon juice
1 tbsp. sweet pickle juice
Vt cup mayonnaise

Procedure:
Mix ingredients and chill one hour to blend flavors.

Chinese Broiled Rabbit (Hot

..
Mustard Sauce)
Ingredients:
2 tbsp. dry mustard
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. salad oil
1 tbsp. water
.,.
6 tbsp. ...,water
f7
tuniertc

Procedure:
1. Mix mustard, salt-and salad oil.
2. Combine cornstarch and water. Bring to boil.
Heat and stir until thickened and clear.
3. Gradually. add to mustard mixture. Mix well.
4. Add tumeric if a deeper color is desired.
80
94
4:1
Broiled Rabbit
Ingredients:
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup butter
1 cup (8 oz. can) tomato sauce
3/4 cup pineapple juice
2 tbsp. lemon juice
2 tbsp. brown sugar, firmly packed
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. dry mustard
1/4 tsp. seasoned salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 kilo rabbit, cut in serving pieces

Procedure:
1. Cook onion in butter until tender.
2. Mix in tomato sauce, pineapple juice, lemon juice, biown sugar
and seasonings.
3. Cook over km heat 15-2" minutes to blend flavors. Pour over
rabbit. Let stand 1 ,4 - 2 hours.
4. Place rabbit pieces, meat side up, on rack inbroiler pan 7 8
inches from heat. Broil 25-30 minutes. Turn. Broil 20-25 minutes
longer or until rabbit is tender.
5. Baste every 8-10 minutes with sauce.
6. Salt before .serving. Serve with Hot Mustard Sauce. .

Yield: 3-4 servings.

Rabbit Paprika
Ingredients:
1 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup butter
tbsp. reu
1 rika
kilo rabbit, cut in servim, pieces
1

4 tsp. salt
1 tsp pepper
1 tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. caraway' seeds
t/I'cup water
2 cups sour cream
3 tbsp. flour

Procedure:
1. Cook onion in butter until tender. Blend in paprika..
81
93
 2. Rub rabbit with salt and peppei. Brown.
3. Add lemon juice, caraway seeds and water. Cover-.
4. Cook over lots, heat 40 Minutes or until tender.
Remove rabbit and keep hot.
5. Blend sour cream, flour and 1 tbsp. paprika together
thoroughly. Slowly mix into pan drippings. Heat and stir just to
boiling.
6. Serve over Rabbit.
Yield: 3-4 servings.

Royal Rabbit Scallop

Ingredients:
1 kilo rabbit
2 stalks celery
1 medium onion, quartered
1 bay leaf
3 peppercorns, slightly crushed
11/2 tsp. and 2 1/1 tsp. salt
3 medium potatoes
11/2 cup coarsely chopped onion
1/4 cup finely chopped celery leaves
1/1 cup and 6 thsp. melted butter
2 cups (151/4 ox. can) cut green beans, drained
3 limp. chol,,,ed parsley
'A cup diced pimiento
6 tbsp. flour
-1tsp. rosemary, ground
3.'8 tsp. pepper

Procedure"
1. Cover rabbit, celery, onion-, bay leaf, peppercorns and 1 % tsp.
salt with. water. Heat to boding. Cover.
2. Cook over low heat 11/2 hours or until rabbit is tender:
3. Add potatoes: Cook 20-25 minutes longer.
4. 'Strain broth and save I :yi cups. Cut meat into small pieces.
5. Heat oven to moderate (350 °). But ter- 2-quart casserole.
6. Cook onion and celery leaves in VI cup butter until tender. Peel
and thirlv slice potatoes.
7. 1.a...r.rabbit, green beans aturpotatoes its casserole. Sprinkle 1/2
the onion mixture and 1/3 the parsley and pimiento'between each
layer.
,

' . %
4
...... _.
'.1
r
-
 8. Blend flour, rosemary, pepper and 2 IA tsp. salt with 6 tbsp.
butter. Gradually stir in saved broth. Heat and stir until thickened
and boiling. Pour over casserole.
9. Sprinkle with remaining parsley and pimiento. Cover.
10. Bake 30 minutes. Uncover. sake 10 minutes longer of until
bubbly. Yield: 6 servings.

Ragout of Rabbit
Ingredients:
V2 cup and 3 tbsp. flour
1 tbsp. salt I

3/1 tsp. seasoned salt

tsp, pepper
/4 tsp. seasoned salt
1 kilo rabbit, cut in serving pieces
1/2 cup milk
V3 cup butter
3/1 cup finely chopped onion
1 tsp. ground caraway
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup chicken bouillon
1 V2 cups Aced carrots
1 package (10 oz.) frozen green peas
1/2 ctip'sliced green olives 1

ProcedUre: -
I

l. Combine 1/2 cup flour, salt, seasoned salt, pepper and paprika.
Dip- rabbit pieces in milk, then in flour mixture.
2. Bfown well in butter. Remove -rabbit to a casserole or heavy
sauce plm. .
.

3. Cook onions in butter ..ntil tenden Add to rabbit with caraway,

wine acid bouillon. Covet _

4. Cook over loW heat 10-I51 Minutes.

5. Acid carrots. Cook 15 minutes.
6. A( cf peas and olives. Cook 10-15 minutes longer or until veget-
ables ar tender. Remove rabbit andkeep warm.
7. Cdmbine 3 tbsp..flour with a little cold water: to form a /smooth
paste. Sitir into gravy. Heat and stir until boiling and thickened.
8. Se }-ve ovet rabbit. 3.

Yjild : 3 -4 servings!

83
e
 Hasenpfeffer
1 ngred ien ts:
:34 cup vinegar
3/4 cup red wine
13/1 cup water
3 medium onions, finely sliced.
4 juniper berries, crushed (optional)
4 whole cloves
2 hay leaves, crumbled
2 tsp. and 2 tsp salt 1

V2 tarrogon, ground !,
3,
74 tsp. black pepper
1 kilo rabbit, cut in serving pieces
1:Y.t cup and 3 tbsp. flour
11/
cup hot water
1,A2 cup hot water
k tsp. sugar"

Procedure:
1. Combine vinegar, wine, water, onion, juniper berries, cloves,
bay leaves, 2 tsp. salt, tarrogon and pepper.
2. Pour over rabbit, let stand for 24 hours at rOom temperature.
3. Combine 3/.4 cup flour and 2 tsp. salt. Dry ritbbit pieces slightly
and roll in flour mixture.
4. Brown well in 'miter. Drain.
5. Strain marinade. Add water and sugar. Your over rabbit.
Cover.
6. Cook' over low heat 40-45 minutes or until tender. Remove
rabbit and keep hot.
7. Combine 3 tbsp. flour with a little cold water-to Porn ,inooth
paste: Blend into gravy. Heat and stir until boiling and thickened.
8. *Serve over rabbit.
Yield: 3-4 serN lugs!

_ 84 96 .
 MULTIPLE-PROJECT A PPROACH
TO RABBITRY
Dorothy M. Hamada
PrOvincial Rural Youth Officer,
Benguet Province

RATIONALE:
Reducing production costs and the waste products that tend to
accumulate are two of the most serious and wasteful problems that
confront any agriculture enterprise. Moreover, agricultural ventures
e' uire that its workers be within constant reach of the prOject while
in most instances underemploying these same workers.
This paper seeks to show how it is feasible, for 'a rabbitry to be
maintained at much reduced costs up to a point of self-liquidating
status; convert potential waste products into economic/by-products;
fully employ farm labor; and generate cottage industries which not
only promise cash for effort expended but also serve as an outlet for
native ingenuity and creative' talent.
Rahbits are protein-rich yet cheap sources of human food, a fact
docitmented by Germany's major reliance on this animal as a source
or their protein during World War I and II. It is a livestock flioject
which can thrive on grasses and waste and/or excess farm greens
which is an asset of vital importance in times of economic depression
and foodifeed shortage such as we face today. To top it all, schemes
presented here will show that the products and by-products from a
total rabbitry supply the basic needs of any ordinary family fulltime
for food, fuel, cash and clothing.
This is one projectmeant for the average Filipino family, farmer or
suburbanite. It is one way of providing work on the farrn, thus,
redUcing urhan-ward migration.

THE'kHEME:
Any rabhitry project, whethePsmall or large, must be fully utilized
if it is to he truly economic and beneficial to the average Filipino
family. It should not produce a lot of waste or garbage which tends to
isolate the farm from neighbors due to foul ordor and/o fly, mos-
quito, or rat infestation. In other words, we much extract, all we can
from one single rabbit project.
On the whole, a rahhit project provides a very versatile meat for the
tahle, pelts and/or leather for clothing, upholstery, hag/gloves and
decor material. In addition, rabbits can he lapinized for animal,vac-
cines. It supplies manure which can he further utilized to generate
85

97
 4

odorless gas. The methane gas tank produces ready-to-use compost;

excess tank liquid in whicl-i.to grow chlorella algae; and water for the
garden. Night dung is eaten by the rabbits. Nothing is wasted, un- .
favorable odor is reduced and under-employment of farm labor is
prevented.
While the scheme illustrated in Figure 69 is for a unit farmstead,' p

assuming that the rabbitry project is large enough to supply a

methane-gas tank with sufficient manure, the same scheme may be
°stretched with several small rabbitries poOling their waste into single
methane gas lank and alternalely using the fuel generated as well as
the by-produces of chlorella algae and excess liquid and compost for
their backyards or communal gardens.
A second alternative is to hook-up the methane-gas tank to the
watersealed toilet so supply a single methane gas tank for the farm
household.

A. Meat
Dressed rabbits can be prepared in several ways, the most favorite
being the same as those prepared out of chicken or goat meat. When
rabbits are fed predominantly on grasses or greens, it is recom-
mended that the rabbits be fed concentrate diets for a week prior to
slaughter to remove the grassy smell and produce tastier meat.
When _slaughtering more than one rabbit for home consumption,
cure the remaining meat with your favorite ham recipe. Cured meat
commands higher prices than fresh meat.
The heads which are not sold with the dressed rabbit can be sold to
clog keeRers for Clog food on a piece or kilo basis.
Entrails are either cooked into dinogoan, blood sausages or
steamed and dried for animal feeds.

B. Skins
Rabbits are processed into pelts which are trimmed after tanning
and sold as single pieces, cut into novelty articles, bags, shoes and
accessories or sewn together for coats, stoles, blankets or upholstery.
Pelts can be dehaired and proses' ,td into soft leather for bags, or
shoes. The shedded wool, is cleaned_and dried for stuffing pillows or
matresses or spun into wool thread. .

Trimmings are further made into trinkets like flowers,-car decor,

bar pins and the like.

C. Brain
The Bureau of Animal Industry buys rabbits regularly for experi-
ment animals or lapinizes them for animal vaccines. A community or
.
86

98
 large nal?bitry concern can coordinate with the BAI for this purpose,
thus reducing the cost of vaccines and utiliiing such parts of the
animal that are not used in the preparation of vaccin0..
D. Manure
Here are several alternatives to the use of rabbit manure.Consid-
eration has also been made of people's reluctance to handle manure
and their rejection of rabbit raising due to its unfavorable odor.
Alternative I,-use single hutches and allow the rabbit dung to fall
directly into 15 mm deep pits under the hutch. Plant earthworms in
the accumulated manure to pulverize the manure and substantially
reduce odor..
Alternative IIPrepare the same pits under the hutch and
sprinkle them with gypsum once-a-week. Gypsum will neutraliie the
odor and lock-up the nitrogen in thee manure which would otherwise
. be lost in the air. This will produce richer fertilizers. '
Alternative illConstruct methane gas tanks into which the man-
ure and urine are placed. Seven to ten wheel-barrels full of man-
ure will fill a one by one meter tank capable of generating enough fuel
for two-hour daily use for two -month periods. The length of service
of a tank-full depends on the weather. Warmer climates cause faster
fermentation.
Construct one to several shallow ponds adjacent to the methanegas
tank in which chlorella, a green algde can grow on excess tank liquid.
The chlorella if sieved and air-dried, provides 60 per cent protein-
rich feed for the rabbits. With this, you can reduce your cost of
concentrates by more than 50 per cent (See Burau of Fisheries for
information on related backyard fish ponds).
A second smaller but deeper pond into which further excess water
can flow, will conserve nutrient-rich water for watering and fertiliz,
ing pastures and grain/vegetable gardens. The rationale for nar-
rower but deeper ponds is to reduce evaporation. The' accumulated
water is also helpful during the dry summer months when water is
scarce.
The decomposed solid matter inside the methane gas tank, when
removed, is ready-to-use compost for the garden. Since it has already
been decomposed, the fertilizer will not harm the plants 'or cause
nitrogen-starvation which is usually a problem when utilizing fresh
manure.
If grain/vegetable gardens are maintained, the products can be
used in the kitchen while the excess greens and bran from the grain
provide carbohydrates, mineral and vitamins for the rabbits. It
marginal lands within and around .the- farm shduld 'be planted to
.1

87
.93
 O

pasture grasses and legumes for year-round supply of roughage for

the rabbits. With this system you assure the rabbits adequate feed
while having ready fertilizer for the pasture:and gardens.
Rabbits are known to eat their own night droppings. These are
.protein rich feed supplements.

E. Paws and Tails "

Paws and tails are treated in formaline, and dried: Keychains and
lucky charms and trinkets can be crafted from' treated paws and tails.
The rabbitry, maintenance of the methane gas tank and the veget-
able grain gardens can be the concern of the farmer and male mem-
bers of the .fairn household while the home industry projects like
tanning_and leather craft can be done by, the female members of the
farm household.

Adjustment in Case of Small Rabbiiries

.Rabbit projects like backyard rabbitries whose main concern is to
provide meat for the table have no reason to waste any of their
by-products simply because their projects are too small to economi-
cally operate any of the by-p'roduct. enterprises: It is recommended
that tanning; saleof excess meat, pelts and crafted articles; even the
operation of a. methane gas tank and the gardens be a communal
effort; that is, some sort of cooperative venture among neighbors.
This will greatly reduce capital investment and overhead expenses
per entrepreneur.
Conclusion:
There is nothing in a rabbitry venture .which cannot he converted
into a useful hy-product for home consumption or 'converted into
cash. It requires only a little extra energy to engage in these side-
enterprises. Working with rabbits is challenging, creative, and re-
warding. So why not go into it? But WASTE NOTHING!

88 190
 FIGuRE 67
MULTIPLE-USE OF RABBIT AND BY-PRODUCTS*

<Fresh
Dressed meat >bone meal (animal feed
Hants
Heads (animalklog food)
DRESSED
Entrails, w/blood blood sausages
CARCASS o-
w/ dinogoan
animal feed and/or fertilizer
garments clothing
bedding glooves
tanned pelts furniture upholstery
single piece decor
foot wear/bags
toys/t rinket s/charms

furniture upholstery
Leather bags/footwear

stuffing
-'" LIVE RABBITS Loose wool
spun into wool thread

r
4
BRAIN Lapinized for animal vaccines
(retain remnants for further uses)

Methane liquid fertilizer .

gas medium for Browning chlorella algae

MANURE ready-to-use compost
4 AND
URINE
Direct fertilizer --- process bv treating w/eart.,hworms
treat w/gypsunt
Night droppings eaten by rabbits for protein

PAWS AND key chains/trinkets/charms

TA ILS

*Absolutely no waste. Provides jobs for everyone. Home-industry for maximum farm labor
utilization.

89

101
 .
o

e FIGURE 68
SELF - LIQUIDATING YOUR RABBITRY PROJXCT
TIM RECYCLING

Rabbitry rash from meat:

e pelts; paws and tails* O

1-

e
Methane gas for home
fuel
Night manure
its teed

2
Chlore Ila
a protein rich feed
*
. Compost
i
food for family* *
greens/bran for feeds .

a
. Forage for rabbits, .

4
*Meat : pelts: paws and 'Hs: methane gas and garden products are used for home consu mpi ion
or may he'converted into cash for family use.
.
Night manure: chlorella: grain bran: surplus garden greens.4nd forage from pastures are aII
recried products from obbitr making it self-liquidating.

90

142
 4

FIGURE 69
SUGGESTED PLACEMENT OF SUB -UNITS OF AN
INTEGRATED RABBITRY. PROJECT

Vegetahle/grain garden
I111. IMI=1

Pasture for Forage ,

Excess
Chlorel1a1-1 H'0
Pond Tanks Hutches Tannery

Kitchell Rabbitry Project

methane
,gas-4
Methane
hose Gas
s. I Tanks

Farm House

Pooled methane gas tanks/

Commercial garden scheme.

Home. '
-r
gas hose
c hlorella
gas hose
pond

Methane
Rabbitry gas Commercial
Tanks garden

Excess
1120
Pond
Rabbitry

103 91
 GLOSSARY
B R F.ED ERone who breeds or rears :t special variet rahhits in conformity With
accepted standards of perfection or for the purpose of improving.their coin-
mercial value.
BREED' Nfaiing the doe with the buck. 1
BUCK--A male rabbit.
BUFFING OR tiN EADI NGThe last stage in tanning when the skins arc stretched
b hand to Soften the pelt.
BUNNYA ba, rabbit.
CAGF.A compartment genet ally .2' x 4' x 2' used for housing one adult rabbit.
CONCENTRATESCommercial or home-mixed feeds which provides 16-18%
protein necessary in the rabbit's diet.
CON FORNIA;110NStructurl features such as size, shape, etc.
COPROPHAGYReingesting of soft night dropping 1i:t he rabbit. It is usually a
sign olltutritional deficiency.
CROSS BREEDINGMain* Iwo different breeds of rabbits such as a.Califfirttia
and Chinchilla.
CULL To remove all undesirable rahhits from t he herd.
D(- }EA female rabbit.
DRO1'P1NGSRabbit manure.
DRY DOE.Fhe period of front weaning t he voting tot he next breeding period
for the doe.
FORACE---Any green roughage fed to cows, horses, pigs. and rabbits.
FOSTER 11OTH ERA doe which nurses the bunnies of another mother in addi-
number of
Lion io her own hunnies. Fostering is usually clone to even up the
bunnies from other does that have more than they can physically nurse.
ERYER=A liptmnt aged from '2-4 months old when its meat is prime, weighing about
.9 kilos to 1.5 kilos.
FUR BtAX:1:7--The stomach is lined with undigested fur. Mocking t he passagm t he
intestinal tract.
GESTATIONMir:Mon of doe's pregnancy from mating to kindling. Can be any-
where front 28 days to 32 days or an average of 30 days.
HOCtiThe middle joint or section of the hind leg, between the foot and the hip.
t HUTCHA string or line of cages. Can he any length. . .

HUTCH CARD -- Recording system where breeding and production are recorded.
for managerial evaluation. Usually a card is attached to each cage.
1N- BREEDING -- Mating closely related rabbits of any breed.
1:1NDLI NGGiving birth to young rabbits.
LACTATION - - Nursing period from kindling to 8 weeks.
1.EGUMEAnyplantoft he pea family with seeds growing in pods for instance peas,
beans, and other leafy plants such as centrocema, 1Fill-ipil (Peruvian type),
ar
Townsville stillo, leucerne (alfalfa), and a green leafy desmOdium.
L11TERA set of bunnies per one birth.
MOLTING The act or process of shedding or changing the fur, usually three times
natural coat
a year. The baby or nest fur is molted at 2 months old, and t he first
of fur is fully developed at 4 months to six months. For a doe it is nature's way
of
resting her from motherhood, and she is in no condition to be bred.
NEST BOXA box measuring 22" long, 11" wide, 9" tall at the rear, 6" tall at the
front, 6" x 11" top cover. Used for the doe to kindle her bunnies in.

92
104
NURSINGPeriod w hen the young draw milk from the teats oft he doe. Lasts from
one clay to 60-days.
011.1NGThe second to t he last process of tanning to soften and prolong the life of .
the pelt,
OUT-BREEDINGMating unrelated rabbits orally breed to improve the stock.
PALPATINGA method of determining the am ;racy oft he doe's prignancy on the
12th-14th clay after 'luting.
PEDIGREE e---A correctly written chart recording t he male and female ancestors of a
rabbit, also showing the date of birth; ownership of dam and the parents,
grandparents, and great grand parents of the specimen in question. In short,
the history of the animal.
RABBITA domesticated rodent of the genus ORYCTOLAGUS CUNICULUS.
An animal with four legs, about the size of a large cat, medium or long ears.
REPRODIUCTIOKThe art of reproducing or multiplying of its own kind.
RVAIPThe hind portion of the back and backbobe.
ITATIONThe art of maintaining cleanliness in the rabbitry which is the most
important, part of management.
TA N N I NGIs a process of curing or prdeving the 'skin or pelt of the rabbit by use
of chemicals.
WEANINGTime when bunnies are teparated from their mot her ...usually at 2
months.

GPO ellq-eaS

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Sihce 1961 when the Peace Corps was created. acre tharl 80.000 tr.s. citizens have Served
as Volunteers in.developing countries, living and working among the people. of th, Third
world as colleagues and co-workers. lbday 6000 PCVI are involved in programs designed
to help' strengthen local capacity to address such' fundamental concerns as food
production, water sapOlY, energy development. nutrition and health education and
4% reforestation.

Loret Miller Nuppe, Director

Edward Curran. Deputy Director Deiignate
Richard-B. Abell, Director, Office of Program Development

Peace Corps overseas offices:

-SIERRA LEONE
BELIZE FIJI MAURITANIA
° P.O. Box 487 P.O. Box 1094' Itrili Privaterra Bag
Freetown
Belize City Suva Nouakchott
..SOLOMON ISLANDS
BENIN GABON MICRONESIA
P.O. Box 547
116-571 BP 2498 ET-56;736 Honiara
Cotonou. Libreville Saipan, Mariana
Islands
SkAtILAND
BOTsRAMA GAMBIA, The
4 P.O. Box 362
P.Q. Box, 93 P.O. Box 50 MOROCCO
mbahane
Gaborone Banjul 17-5174sat BenZerte
Rabat
CAMEROLA GHANA TANZANIA
1315 P.O. Box 5796
5,
N377EFY
. Yaounde Accra 04orth) NEPAL
Dar es Salaam
P.O. Box 613
Kathmandu
-CENTRAL AFRICAN GUATEMALA THAILAND
REPUBLIC 6a Avenida 1-46 42 Sol Sqmprasong 2
TF-1.07- Zona 2
Petchhuri Road
bangui Guatemala "jaiB P 537
Bangkok 4
Niamey
HONDURAS TOGO
COSTA RICA Apartado Postal -

Avartado Postal BP 194

C -51 OMAN 1
1266 Lome
Tegucigalpa P.O. Box 966
San Jose muscat
JAMAICA TONGA
9 musyrove Avenue PAPUA NEW GUINEA
T47777
Kingston 10 F7771F7A790 -7
Nuku Alofa
Boroko
KENYA .
TUNISIA
DOMI11iCAN NLPUNLIC
P.O. Box insiS B.P. 96
.Apart no Postal PARAGUAY
Nairobi 1002 TUnis-Belverlere
1414 '0 '00 American Embassy
Santo Domingo Tunis .
"LESOTHO Asuncion
P77 1.7.7143x 554 ,
EASTERN CARR1BBEAN UPPER VOLTA
.maseru BP 537-Sararein
Including: Antigua PHILIPPINES
Barbados, Grenada, Ouagadougou
LIBERIA P.O. Box 7013
Montserrat, Bow Manila
St. Kitts-Nevis, monrovia
St.Lucia,St. wESTERN SAMA
RWANDA
vincent, Dominica P.O. Fox RAO
"Erin Court"
WANT TA7Warican Embassy Apia
Box 208 Kigali
Bishnps Court hill Lilongwe
P.O. Box 696-C YEMEN
SENWAL P.O. Rox 1151
Bridgetown, Barbados MALAYSIA BP 2534
Saba la
=ran Raja NYda Dakar
Kuala Lumpur t
ZAIRE -
ECUADOR
Casilla 635-A SEYCHELLES HP 697
Quito
MALI
Box S6 Kinshasa
Victoria
Bamako

at

106