WoodPlans Online - Coffe Table & Ottoman
WoodPlans Online - Coffe Table & Ottoman
WoodPlans Online - Coffe Table & Ottoman
Arts-and-Crafts
Collection
Coffee
Table and
Ottoman
In a seperate downloadable plan, we intro-
duced this impressive Arts-and-Crafts
Collection with the Morris-style chair shown
bottom right. Here, we follow suit with this
handsome Coffee Table and Ottoman.
#DP-00084 Page 1 of 13
COFFEE TABLE
¤" chamfer along top edges
EXPLODED VIEW
2›" 17‡"
2› x 2›" notches
46" in all four corners
2›" I
1„"
G
¸" hole,
countersunk 22fi"
H
fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long
F
18" ¤" chamfers
B 41fi"
A
D E H
F
2fi"
B
D
F
¤" TENON DETAIL
fi"
A
¤" D
2fi"
‹"
F E
¤" chamfers
fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long
Page 2 of 13
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Coffee Table
Bill of Materials
Finished Size
Part
Matl.
Qty.
T W L
COFFEE TABLE CUTTING DIAGRAM
A* legs 2‹" 2‹" 18" LO 4
G
B rails ‡" 2‡" 23" O 4
A
TM
C ctr. slats ›" 3" 10" O 2 A A ‡ x 9‹ x 96" Oak
1„ x 7‹ x 96" Oak
*Cut parts marked with an * oversize. Trim to fin-
ished size according to the how-to instructions. I I
Page 3 of 13
2‹" 2‹"
Begin by laminating and
machining the legs
Note: For an authentic look,
choose straight grain or rift-cut 1fi"
stock, preferably white oak, for all
the pieces of this project. 4fi" COFFEE
1 To form the 2‹"-square legs (A), 2" TABLE LEG
cut 12 pieces of ‡" stock to 2› by (4 needed)
19". (Using these
dimensions, the
pieces are oversized fi x 2" mortises
¤" in width and 1" cut completely 3fi"
in length so you can through leg
trim flush the edges
and ends of the legs later.) See the
A 18"
Leg drawing at right for reference. 10" fi x 3fi" mortise cut
2 Spread an even coat of glue on completely through leg
the mating surfaces of the three
pieces making up each leg. With
the edges and ends flush, glue and Œ"
clamp the pieces face-to-face to
form the four legs. fi"
3 Cut or plane an equal amount off
both edges of each leg for a 2‹"
finished width. Then, trim both 2"
ends of each leg for an 18" finished
length.
4 Lay out the mortises on the out-
side surface of each leg where
dimensioned. (To ensure any pos-
sible chip-out would be on the
inside surface and covered by the
rail and stretcher tenon shoulders, Legs are laminated
we marked the mortisess on the from three ‡"-thick pieces.
outside surfaces. We also drilled Œ"
from the outside surface so the bit fi" ¤" chamfers along top
came through on the inside.) Œ" and bottom ends of leg
5 Attach a wood top and fence to
your drill-press table. Using a Á" ing and accompanying detail for shown on the Tenon detail. If you
brad-point bit, drill holes inside the reference. have a small laminate-trim router,
marked mortises. Square-up the 3 Switch to a wider dado blade on use a chamfer bit in it to machine
mortises with a chisel. You could your tablesaw. Then, attach a long the tenon ends.
also form the mortises with a mor- wooden extension to your table- 5 Cut the center slats (C) and nar-
tiser. saw’s miter gauge, and square the rower side slats (D) to size. Using
6 Rout a ¤" chamfer along the top extension to the blade. Using a the Parts View on Page 8, transfer
and bottom end of each leg. stop for consistency, cut rabbets to the cutout location to each center
form tenons on the ends of the slat. Drill a blade start hole, and
Machine and assemble rails (B ). (We test-cut scrap stock scrollsaw the openings to shape.
the end frames first to ensure a tight fit of the 6 To form the spacers (E, F) cut a
1 Cut the upper and lower rails (B) tenons into the leg mortises.) See piece of stock to ›" thick by fl"
to the sizes listed in the Bill of the Tenon detail accompanying wide by 48" long. Then, crosscut
Materials from ‡" stock. the End Frame drawing for dimen- the spacers (E, F) to length from
2 Fit your tablesaw with a ›" dado sions. this strip.
blade, and cut a ›" groove fi" 4 Carefully sand or file the cham- 7 To assemble the end frames,
deep, centered along one edge of fers on both ends of the through start by finding the center (from
each rail. See the End Frame draw- tenons on the rails (B), where end-to-end) of each rail, and mark a
Page 4 of 13
TM
2fi"
2‡" C D
2fi"
‹"
2" 1‹"
B ›"
F
D 3"
fi"
E
›" groove fi" deep, E
centered on bottom edge
¤" chamfers along end of tenon
B
F
Page 5 of 13
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centerline across the grain.
Starting with the center slat (C)
centered over the centerline on
the bottom rail (B) and working
A
from the center out, add (no glue)
the spacers (E, F) and the slats (D).
Add the top rail (B). Trim the spac-
ers if necessary. Then, fit (again,
no glue) the assembly into the leg
mortises to check the joinery.
8 Sand the legs and end frame
pieces. Next, glue and clamp the
two frames together, checking for
square as shown in Photo A.
Page 6 of 13
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FORMING THE TABLETOP the notches before edge-joining
the boards.
STEP 1 20fl" 2 Mark a centerline across two of
the boards. Measuring from the
41‹" center out (you need to do this
because the boards are cut long
at this point), mark the loca-
20fl" tions of the notches on one
Mark notch cutlines. of the boards. Now, as
I
Marked centerline shown in Step 1 of the
5fl" three-step drawing at
5fl" 1„ x 5fl x *47" boards dry-clamped together letf, clamp two of the
*Boards initially are cut 1" longer before edge-joining. boards together, align-
ing the centerlines.
Use a framing square
to transfer the notch locations
2›" onto the second board. Remove
2›" the clamps, and bandsaw the
notches in each board to shape.
3 Edge-join one notched board
STEP 2 against a second unnotched board,
46" keeping the surfaces flush. See
41‹" Step 2 of the drawing for refer-
Cut notches on I ence. Repeat for the remaining
outside corners. two boards
4 Remove the clamps and scrape
off the excess glue. Crosscut the
Edge-join half of the ends of both table halves for a 46"
2›" table. Repeat this long finished length, so that the
for the other table half. notches measure 2›" long. Now,
being careful to keep the ends and
Trim ends to finished notches aligned as shown in Step 3
2›" length (46") after these two of the drawing, glue and clamp the
boards have been glued together. two tabletop halves together,
again checking to see that the sur-
faces are flush. Later remove the
clamps, scrape off the excess glue,
STEP 3 and sand the tabletop smooth.
5 Rout a ¤" chamfer along the top
of the tabletop (I). On the inside
corners of the notches, you’ll
need to use a sharp chisel to
I square-up the chamfer.
46"
2›"
5fl" ¤" chamfer along top edge
17‡"
I ¤" chamfers
22fi" TABLETOP I
¤"
Square inside
of routed corner A
2›" with a chisel.
TOP VIEW
2›" ¤"
NOTCH DETAIL
1‹"
COFFEE TABLE
PARTS VIEW
1" 5‹" Ottoman
10" Coffee table
‹"
‹" G
R=›" CLEATS
(2 needed)
‡"
Page 8 of 13
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Ottoman
Using a construction procedure like Bill of Materials
that of the coffee table, build the Finished Size
Matl.
Qty.
Part
T W L
ottoman shown here. See the Parts A* legs 2‹" 2‹" 12‹" LO 4
Page 9 of 13
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OTTOMAN CUTTING DIAGRAM
A A A
B H H
G G
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak
*C *I *I * E and * F
*D *I *I 2fi"
fi x 3fi x 96" Oak
*Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Bill of Materials.
13"
2fi"
B
2fi"
fi" tenon fl"
2" wide x 2fi" long
1‹" F
E
F
TENON fi"
DETAIL ¤" ¤" C 5‹"
D
›"
2fi" 2‡"
‹" 1‹"
D
2" F
B 3"
fi" E
F
18"
›" groove fi" deep,
centered on top edge
OTTOMAN
END FRAME
Page 10 of 13
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2‹" 2‹"
fi" OTTOMAN
2" 3fi" LEG
fi x 2" mortises
(4 needed)
cut completely
through leg
5‹" A 3fi"
12‹"
fi x 3fi" mortise
2" cut completely
Œ" through leg
fi"
Nylon-backed vinyl
5fi" high-density (we used high
resiliently 23 pound (HR23) foam)
#4 steel zipper
Cushion-eze Bondtek #5 or what
may be available in your area
(to keep batting from sticking
to vinyl or fabric)
Piping
›" batting
(we used Dacron)
‹ x 10 x 16" plywood Buff edges.
(cushion held in place
with screws in ottoman)
OTTOMAN CUSHION
(VIEW FROM BOTTOM)
Page 11 of 13
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OTTOMAN I I #8 x 1" F.H. brass wood screw
EXPLODED VIEW
1‹"
›"
¸" shank hole, countersunk
H
A D
G
2fi"
B
19" #8 x 1‹" F.H.
wood screw
24" F
¤" TENON
fi"
¤" DETAIL C
B
2fi" F
‹" 2fi" E
4" 13"
fi x 2" mortises cut A
completely through leg
3fi" G
Page 12 of 13
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16›" CUSHION
PARTS VIEW
5"
21"
R=1Œ"
fi" seam allowance
Note: Checking with upholsterers 5fi" high-density foam
END PATTERN around the country, we learned
(2 needed)
that the supplies and the thickness
of materials vary greatly.
We recommend providing our 15"
drawings and your chair to your
upholsterer, and having them make
the cushion to fit your chair.
Material for piping
(2 needed)
1fi"
40"
#4 steel zipper
fi" seam
allowance
20‹"
21‹"
CUSHION
PATTERN Centerlines
See full-size half
pattern below.
Align pattern
on centerlines.
FULL-SIZE
HALF PATTERN
Page 13 of 13
TM