Gigabyte Sandy Bridge Overclocking Guide
Gigabyte Sandy Bridge Overclocking Guide
Gigabyte Sandy Bridge Overclocking Guide
• If you overclock your system, the warranty on those parts becomes void. Any damage caused by
overclocking (even when done correctly and carefully), hardware or data loss, is NOT under
guarantee. We wholeheartedly support overclocking here at Gigabyte, but by definition, if you
overclock, you are running your hardware above specification, meaning that you yourself are
responsible for the results.
• In overclocking the rule is always: YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary). In clearer words, this means
that every individual chip, every individual board, every individual RAM module and every
individual power supply has slightly different electrical characteristics, and they ALL can
influence the overclocking results, good or bad. If you get bad results, it can simply be bad luck.
Therefore, we cannot guarantee ANY results at all.
• For readability and briefness, this guide is written assuming you have at least a basic
understanding of overclocking on P55, X58 or AM3 platforms, and the risks involved. If you do
not, please read any of the basic overclocking tutorials available on the web before returning
here.
• ALL values you see in the screenshots are done using our particular setup, and your computer is
different. Do not blindly copy these values and expect it to work. Overclocking (especially in
stage 2 and 3) is a process that requires your personal touch and input. So, with that in mind,
you should treat all the values, settings and results (basically anything expressed with a number)
as an example, not as a recommendation.
• An Intel Sandy Bridge “K-model” CPU. At the time of writing, only two suitable models are
available: the i5-2500K and the i7-2600K
• A Gigabyte P67 Motherboard. The screenshots are all taken on a P67A-UD7, but the basic
functionality is the same for all P67 boards.
ATTENTION: You cannot overclock on an H67 board!
• A good cooler to keep your CPU cool. Preferably a tower cooler with 12cm fan, or watercooling
for the highest overclocks.
• Of course, a good power supply also helps a stable overclock.
Software
You need the following software to follow this tutorial:
• OS: We used Windows 7 64bit for our testing, but any windows version can follow this guide.
• Temperature monitoring: You need to make sure your CPU is not overheating. We used
CoreTemp, but there are many other good alternatives.
• Frequency analysis: To monitor the processor’s frequency, use CPU-Z
• Benchmarking: To measure how much performance is gained from overclocking, there are many
tools out there. We have limited ourselves to a few popular benchmarks: wPrime 1.55, SuperPi
mod 1.5, Cinebench 11.5
• Stability testing: To make sure that the CPU is still stable after overclocking it, and to test if it will
not overheat even in extreme conditions, we use Prime95 to put 100% load on all CPU cores.
Designing your overclock
When you start overclocking, it’s important that you first think about what you want to accomplish.
Different users want different things, and this means you will make different choices and demands for
your overclock. This guide gives you three examples, but you may of course design your own set of
expectations and demands based on your own preference.
Stage 3: Benchmarking
Pulling all the stops, we overclock the system to it’s very limit. This kind of overclocking is fun to do, and
can get very addictive and competitive, but the resulting system will not be stable or usable in real-life
situation. At this point, we are purely doing it for the fun and the sport!
For the first stage, we will use the turbo mode, for the second and third stages we will raise the stakes
and turn off all the features here.
Also worth noting is the Internal CPU PLL Overvoltage. This is a setting that allows extra performance in
the third stage, and is presently only available in this F6x version BIOS. It will also feature in later BIOSes.
Next up is the other very important screen for overclockers: voltage control. This screen is a bit simpler
then it is on other platforms, but there are some new terms.
Stage 1 will leave this screen untouched, but for stages 2 and 3 we will spend some time in here.
And that’s all the screens we need for overclocking! Let’s work!
Preparation
There are some things that need to be done before we can start overclocing. It’s the same for
overclocking on all platforms, so I’ll just put a quick checklist here for your reference. Make sure you tick
off the whole list before you start overclocking! It may take some time, but if you run into problems
later, it’s always good to be sure it’s because of your overclock, and not one of the factors below.
At first, we will keep things conservative, we aren’t changing much. For this overclock, we will use the
great new implementation of Turbo Boost Technology.
Simply go to the advanced CPU core features screen, and change the following values:
Now, of course all this extra performance does use some extra power. That’s why we raised the Turbo
Power limit to 120W, so there is extra power available when the CPU needs it. Don’t be too afraid of this
value, the CPU will now use a it’s absolute maximum the same amount of power as a core i7-920 at
stock settings. Any decent air cooler will be able to deal with this heat.
Now, go into windows and start checking performance, stability and heat. If you think you can go a little
further based on your measurements, adjust the numbers to your liking. Remember, these values I am
posting here are examples, not recommendations!
Here are our results, you can see great improvements in all categories!
Stage 2: Static High-Performance
Ok, so you have gotten the taste of all that performance, and now you want more! Time to take the
gloves off! Of course I should warn you again: if you enter this stage you need to keep a constant eye on
your CPU temperature and stability, and have good upgraded cooling.
First, we go back to the Advanced Features screen, and turn everything off. We also enable the Internal
CPU PLL overvoltage option.
This time, we are not letting windows control how fast the CPU is going, we are doing it ourselves. After
you have turned everything off, it should look like this:
Now we start raising the clock speed by lifting that multiplier higher and higher. Take small steps to be
sure, and test each time to make sure you have no stability or heat issues. If the CPU is unstable but not
too hot, you can go to the voltage screen and raise the voltage a bit. We also turn on Load Line
Calibration to level 2, so the voltage will stay stable, even when the CPU is under stress. Again, baby
steps, keep testing, and be patient.
After a while, you will find the personal maximum of your setup. In my case, I ended up on 5.0GHz, with
1,4V on the vCore and everything else on automatic:
Going back to windows, the results were great to see!
Stage 3: Benchmarking
If you are like many others, you have now caught the overclocking bug: you want to see how high it is
possible to go with this CPU! This stage is not for the weakhearted, because there is a very real chance
that your CPU will be burned. Let me repeat that just to make sure: there is a very real chance that you
will break your CPU if you push it to the speeds of stage 3. Make sure you have VERY good cooling, keep
watching the temperatures, and don’t go too high with any of the voltages. Baby steps, keep testing and
read the different online forums where others have made similar attempts. This part of the guide is not
to advise you to do this, only to show you that IF you want to do it, our boards can handle it and will
help you get the best possible results!
All the invested time and the risk was worth it though. We were able do a full run of SuperPi and save
the screenshot for prosperity. The “under 7 seconds club” used to be a very small group, but I suspect a
lot more people will join soon! Can you beat our score?