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(2006),"Fast fashioning the supply chain: shaping the research agenda", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An
International Journal, Vol. 10 Iss 3 pp. 259-271 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/13612020610679259
(2006),"Buyer behaviour for fast fashion", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, Vol. 10
Iss 3 pp. 329-344 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/13612020610679303
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AndreÂs Mazaira
University of Vigo, Oureuse, Spain
E. GonzaÂlez
University of Vigo, Oureuse, Spain
Ruth Avendan Äo
University of Vigo, Oureuse, Spain
Keywords A study of business realities is crucial to worldwide whose success and personality
Market orientation, bridge the distance between university have achieved an outstanding position in the
Competitive advantage, studies and the business world and enable the
Clothing industry,
media and in scientific debate in
student to realise that the subjects under
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[ 220 ]
AndreÂs Mazaira, E. GonzaÂlez broadening of the target by including a alone. Stores also compete for the best store
and Ruth Avendan Äo growing number of consumers in the market. locations and good terms for rent or
The role of market orientation
on company performance Consumer tastes over the past few years purchase. New competitors are also a
through the development of have been veering away towards extremes. constant threat in a sector with very few
sustainable competitive Stores offering latest fashions and stores
advantage: the Inditex-Zara entry barriers.
case offering lower priced clothing have taken The following trends may be identified as
Marketing Intelligence & market share from general fashion outlets, determinant factors for the sector's future
Planning such as department stores, which were the development:
21/4 [2003] 220-229
main players up to the mid-1990s. . De-localisation of textile and clothing
Today's clothing and accessories industry manufacture in Europe and
is highly competitive, and increased North America.
competitiveness is to be expected over the . A strong increase in competitive pressure.
next few years. One-brand store chains in . Company growth strategy and forward-
particular have a tendency to competition for looking integration for clothing
the same customer profile. They must also manufacturers.
compete with local, national and . Development of distribution chains.
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Table I
Companies (Spanish and other nationalities) in the Inditex group, 31 January 2001
Spanish Other nationalities
Raw materials and Comditel, Samlor, Trisko, Nikole, Choolet, Sircio, Zintura,
manufacture Fioos, Hampton, Tempe, Denllo, Stear, Glencare, Yeroli
Logistics Zara LogõÂstica, Massimo dutti LogõÂstica, Pull & Bear
LogõÂstica, Bershka LogõÂstica
Sales Zara EspanÄa, Kiddy's Class EspanÄa, Bretto's BRT EspanÄa, Zara USA, Zara Argentina, Zara Venezuela, Zara UK, Zara
Grupo Massimodutti, Pull & Bear EspanÄa, Bershka BSK Deutschland, Zara Canada, Zara Norge, Zara Danmark, Zara
EspanÄa, Stradivarius EspanÄa, Oysho EspanÄa Sverige, Zara Belgique, Zara Asia, Zara OÈsterreich Clothing,
Zara Hellas, Zara Japan, Zara Luxembourg, Zara Nederland,
Zara Fance, Zara Chile, Zara Mexico, Zara Uruguay, Zara
Portugal, Zara Brasil, Zara Suisse, Za Giyim Ithalat Ihracat
Ve Ticaret, Kiddy's Class Portugal, Massimo Duti
Deutschland, Massimo Dutti Hellas, Pull & Bear Portugal,
Pull & Bear Hellas, Bershka Portugal, Bershka Mexico,
Bershka BSK Venezuela, Bershka Hellas, Stradivarius Hellas,
Stradivarius Portugal
Complementary Goainvest, Inditex, Zara SA (EspnÄola), Inditex CogeneracioÂn Zara SA (Argentina), Zara Holding, Zara Merken, Zara
activities and Aie, Lefties EspanÄa Vastgoed, Zara Financien, Zara Vastgoed Hellas, Zara
inactive companies Mexico, Vastgoed France, Zara Italia, Zara Nipon, Zara
France InmobilieÁre, Zara Vastgoed Ferreol, Vastgoed,
General Leclerc, Vastgoed Nancy, Zalapa, Vastgoed Asia,
Invercarpo, Robustae SGPS, Massimo Dutti Holding, Zara
Italia, Jose Maria Arrojo Aldegunde, Motorgal
Table II
International presence of Inditex stores
Own stores Franchises Joint ventures Stores in Spain Total stores Countries
Zara 410 27 12 220 449 29
Pull & Bear 199 30 ± 165 229 11
Massimo Dutti 119 78 1 137 198 13
Bershka 102 2 ± 83 104 4
Stradivarius 65 35 ± 87 13 7
Inditex group 908 172 13 692 1,093 33
Source: Inditex (2001)
[ 221 ]
AndreÂs Mazaira, E. GonzaÂlez Table III
and Ruth Avendan Äo Target audience, positioning and weight of Inditex stores
The role of market orientation
on company performance Target audience age Positioning Per cent sales
through the development of
sustainable competitive Zara Women (58%) ± Men (22%) Quality: medium-high 78.2
advantage: the Inditex-Zara
case ± Children (20%) Price: medium-low
Marketing Intelligence &
Age 0-45/50 Several product lines
Planning Pull & Bear Women ± Men Quality: medium-high 6.6
21/4 [2003] 220-229
Age 14-28 Price: medium-low
Sports, leisure, fresh air
Massimo Dutti Women (50.8%) ± Men (49.2%) Quality: medium-high 7.0
Age 24-45 Formal-informal designer wear
Bershka Women Quality: medium 5.2
Age 13-23 Price: medium-low
Latest trends ± informal wear
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. Low fidelity levels. ``One-brand Market orientation has been one of the most
wardrobes'' no longer exist, and attractive research topics in marketing and
companies seek to increase their share in management research during the past
customer wardrobes. decade. It focuses on superior skills in
creating customer satisfaction with positive
Table IV shows details of some of Inditex's impact on company profitability. Market
main competitors. orientation is inter-functional, and requires
co-ordinated behaviour across the
organisation ± hence the expression ``market
2. From marketing orientation to orientation'' instead of ``marketing
market orientation orientation''.
The market-orientation construct originated Three main approaches have been used to
in marketing orientation, which was define market orientation:
developed in the 1950s on the basis of the 1 Cultural approach. This perspective
assumption that: considers market orientation to be a
. . . creating a satisfied customer is the only characteristic organisational culture[5].
valid definition of a business purpose Narver and Slater (1990) argue it is
(Drucker, 1954). ``organisational culture that effectively
Table IV
Zara's competitors
Source Year Sales (millions pesetas) No. of stores No. of countries
Companies which distribute fashion and other products
El Corte IngleÂs 1 1999 1,630.000 474 1
Carrefour 2 2000 6,256.114 1,898 21
Fashion companies
Gap 2 2000 2,152.475 3,676 5
C&A 2 1999 831.930 444 10
HM 2 2000 663.706 682 14
Inditex 3 2000 435.049 1,093 33
Benetton 2 1999 329.444 7,000 120
Cortefiel 3 2000 112.237 567 8
Mango 1 2000 128.949 511 49
Adolfo DomõÂnguez 3 2000 16.155 186 11
Source: Inditex
Notes: (1) Analysts' estimation, (2) corporate Web page, (3) company accounts
[ 222 ]
AndreÂs Mazaira, E. GonzaÂlez and efficiently creates behaviours'' in the and, specifically, the Zara chain, how far the
and Ruth Avendan Äo organisation for creation of superior group's marketing strategies and tactics are
The role of market orientation customer value (Narver and Slater, 1990).
on company performance different from competitors', and what causes
through the development of Market orientation is: ``the culture that (1) these differences.
sustainable competitive places the highest priority on the There is strong media focus on the fact that
advantage: the Inditex-Zara
case profitable creation and maintenance of Zara does not have a formalised marketing
Marketing Intelligence &
superior customer value while department, keeps its advertising budget to a
Planning considering the interests of other minimum, and centres corporate success on
21/4 [2003] 220-229 stakeholders; and (2) provides norms for production and logistics strategy. The
behavior regarding the organisational inference is that marketing in Zara is
development and responsiveness to non-existent.
market information'' (Slater and Narver, However, the Zara organisation clearly
1995, p. 67). Market orientation's key
states: ``Our customers are the basis and the
feature is held to be a commitment from
reason of our group's existence''. Close
all members of the organisation to
attention is paid to continuous information
continuous creation of added value for the
on customer needs and wants, and these are
customer (Narver et al., 1998). Leading
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Figure 2
Flow chart across value chain
[ 225 ]
AndreÂs Mazaira, E. GonzaÂlez Figure 3
and Ruth Avendan Äo The production process in other Inditex chains
The role of market orientation
on company performance
through the development of
sustainable competitive
advantage: the Inditex-Zara
case
Marketing Intelligence &
Planning
21/4 [2003] 220-229
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Figure 4
Complete seasonal cycle
[ 226 ]
AndreÂs Mazaira, E. GonzaÂlez . New market trends are brought into the or on successful television serials,
and Ruth Avendan Äo stores in an agile, continuous manner. competitors' stores, stores in other trend-
The role of market orientation driven sectors, museums, and travel to
on company performance The organisation has full, almost
through the development of immediate capacity to answer the market. fashion-sensitive areas, where presence in
sustainable competitive This is an essential factor in a changing clubs, fashion centres, universities or
advantage: the Inditex-Zara
case sector. Agility is such that from product markets is encouraged.
Marketing Intelligence & design to sale, only two weeks elapse for The second and most important source of
Planning repeat orders or slight changes, and five information comes from Zara's own stores
21/4 [2003] 220-229 weeks for new products. and is based on Zara's integrated retailer
. Stores are permanently stocked with process and the organisation's capability to
successful products, even in the sales reduce the time between design and sale.
period. ``Product-shop teams'' are able to receive
. Risk in interpretation of fashion continuous information from stores
tendencies is noticeably lessened. So is the worldwide. Each day, they check products'
risk of accumulating stocks of failed success and examine the trends suggested by
products. Risk products are produced the store managers. This information is
in-house. immediately transmitted to the purchase
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. Purchasing late in the season has department, the design department (which
favourable effects on costs, as suppliers works on three seasons simultaneously) and
are anxious to sell off materials before the the production department. All three
end of the season. departments organise their work as a
response to this continuous customer
Further, continuous change in the stores'
feedback.
products achieves a scarcity-opportunity
Another important source of information
feeling. In the words of a company executive
are orders placed by store managers through
(see Herreros, 2000):
their ``Cassiopeia'', an instrument
Customers who enter a Zara store and see
something they like, know they have to buy it specifically created for placing orders and
straight away, because it probably won't be continuous collection of market information
there next week. in the Inditex group. Stores place orders
twice weekly, selecting products from an
This competitive advantage is hard to copy offer they are sent beforehand. Production
by competitors, because its success is not plans are made up from orders. Logistics
simply a technical issue. It originates in the centres serve small volumes to ensure store
company's strong identification with the managers are not able to stock up on
values of market orientation and the Zara best-selling products.
business concept. So, information is captured daily and
perfected twice a week. It is disseminated
3.3. Behaviours in Zara which derive from throughout the organisation and brings forth
its characteristic organisational culture immediate response. If a product is
and allow competitive advantage to be unsuccessful, it is immediately taken off the
sustained market. Behaviour in this area is clearly
The presence of a clear market orientation market oriented.
has been confirmed in the Inditex group and On average, Zara places 10,000 different
Zara. Now, we will examine how specific sets articles on the market each year (10,744 in
of behaviour in the company are affected by 1999, 9,845 in 2000).
this orientation. This discussion will centre
on four points: Production
1 collection, dissemination and response to The Inditex group owns 20 production
market information; companies. These are specialised according
2 production; to garment type, e.g. one shoe company, two
3 product line strategies; and children's clothing manufacturer, one shirt
4 price policy.
Collecting information Table V
Interviews in the group show that great Internal versus external production
importance is attached to obtaining market
information. Two main sources of Companies in the External production
information have been observed. Information group (per cent) (per cent)
on market trends is collated by members of 1998 53 47
the design team. The team works on several 1999 50 50
sources of inspiration and information, such 2000 44 56
as trade fairs, fashion shows, books,
observation of styles worn by opinion leaders
Source: Inditex (per cent over sales out figures)
[ 227 ]
AndreÂs Mazaira, E. GonzaÂlez Table VI
and Ruth Avendan Äo External production according to country of origin
The role of market orientation
on company performance Spain Portugal Other EU Rest of Europe Asia Other
through the development of
sustainable competitive (per cent) (per cent) (per cent) (per cent) (per cent) (per cent)
advantage: the Inditex-Zara
case 1999 25 24 9 11 23 8
Marketing Intelligence &
2000 20 22 5 15 29 9
Planning
21/4 [2003] 220-229
manufacturer, one company specialising in Pricing policy
men's trousers and jackets. Zara's system for price fixing is different
Other items are produced externally. In the from the usual sector system. The clothing
words of an Inditex executive: industry commonly uses a traditional cost
The decision whether to externalise or to plus margin pricing system. Zara uses a
produce in the group depends on cost, market-oriented target pricing system. The
delivery date, returns [. . .] We attempt to sales department identifies the price
maintain a competitive feeling between all
consumers are ready to pay and the price of
our suppliers, including our own factories
similar products in other accessible
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[ 228 ]
AndreÂs Mazaira, E. GonzaÂlez 9 Narver and Slater include all activity directed Munuera, J.L. and Rodriguez, A.I. (2000),
and Ruth Avendan Äo towards the acquisition of information about Estrategias de Marketing para un Crecimiento
The role of market orientation customers and competition in the target Rentable. Casos PraÂcticos, ESIC, Madrid.
on company performance
through the development of market, and its spread across the Narver, J.C. and Slater, S.F. (1990), ``The effect of a
sustainable competitive organisation, as indicators of customer market orientation on business profitability'',
advantage: the Inditex-Zara orientation and competitor orientation. Journal of Marketing, October, pp. 20-35.
case
10 See, for instance, VaÂzquez (2000) or the Narver, J.C., Slater, S.F and Tietje, B. (1998),
Marketing Intelligence & interview with J.M. Castellanos on ExpansioÂn, ``Creating a market orientation'', Journal of
Planning
21/4 [2003] 220-229 26 July 2001, available at: Focused Market, Vol. 2, pp. 241-55.
www.expansiondirecto.com/edicion/noticia/ Norburn, D., Birley, S., Dunn, M. and Payne, A.
0,2458,14530,0.html (1990), ``A four nation study of the
relationship between marketing
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