NEWS DIGEST

Longer-lasting colour
Croda is putting an end to dull hair colour with its two defining factors in vibrancy, shine and colour,
new hair colour intensifying active, VibraRiche. Croda’s analysis of the interaction of light with hair
This new liquid technology offers hair colour identified two specific incidents of reflection: lustre
formulators the ability to deliver shinier, more and chroma. Lustre is the initial reflection of light
vibrant and longer lasting colour to their from the hair surface, and chroma is the second
customers, while sharpening the colour of the reflection of light after it penetrates the hair fibre.
hair for intense visual impact. VibraRiche not only Using these reflections and their overlap, Croda hair colour, they want it to last. In addition to
allows for amplified colour vibrance, it improves has been able to quantitatively measure hair increasing the vibrancy of the hair, Croda has
the condition of the hair for stunning shades of vibrance, creating a basis for comparison in their found that VibraRiche doubles the longevity of a
touchable, soft, healthy-looking locks. studies. The HCVF was calculated for hair dyed hair dye’s initial colour. In a colourwash fastness
While the vibrance of hair colour is a with and without VibraRiche, and the resulting study, hair dyed with VibraRiche maintained its
perceivable attribute, measuring it for the data showed that the hair dyed with VibraRiche colour for twice as long as the control product
purpose of comparison is quite new and had an HCVF almost 10% higher than the control. not containing VibraRiche. This longer-lasting
revolutionary. Croda has developed a new Along with intensity of colour, another colour translates into an increase in value as
methodology to quantify the vibrancy of hair, the important attribute of hair colorants is their staying customers save both time and money by having
Hair Colour Vibrance Factor (HCVF). Using the power. Customers not only want bright, intense to dye their hair less frequently.

Editor
Richard Scott
[email protected]
Technical Editor
SQAS assessment
Chris Smith As a European chemical distribution company, assessed to Responsible Care, through Third
[email protected] Cornelius has long been committed not only Party Verification (TPV), via the SQAS/ESAD
Technical Consultant to providing added value to its customers and scheme. Cornelius CEO, Dr Neville Prior, said:
Anthony C. Dweck, BSc. CChem FLS FRSC FRSPH
partners, but also to placing emphasis on “Whilst our Responsible Care programmes gives
[email protected]
community, safety and responsibility in the our customers, suppliers and partners every
Publishing Director
Josh Taylor supply chain. confidence in how we manage our products and
[email protected] While it has adhered to the principals of the the supply chain, TPV assessment puts us at
Trevor Moon Global Responsible Care programme for many the top of the distribution tree. We at Cornelius
[email protected]
years, Cornelius has now been successfully are very proud of this achievement.”
Business Manager (online)
Chris Vincent
[email protected] COMMENT
Publication Administration
Kate Phillips
[email protected]
Design
Dave Woodall / Ray Ecclestone
Naturally promoting
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Hair is one of the most immediate and that mirrors the way in which the body
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COMMUNICATIONS
someone for the first time, their hair has analysis of a new ingredient that will help
Published by: related information ranging from the consumers keep up with the trend for
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Step House, North Farm Road, taste, health, political persuasion, and range of problems for maintaining healthy
Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 3DR, UK socio-economic background. These hair associated with heat and chemical
Tel: +44 (0)1892 779999 factors go some way to revealing why damage. This new ingredient helps
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In this issue of Personal Care Croda market, and so Personal Care will be at
examines a novel ingredient that restores SCS Formulate in Coventry this November
hair by mimicking the proteins found in to hear more about the latest hair care
the hair’s natural composition. This ingredients from companies such as
© Step Communications Ltd 2012 biomimetic approach ties in well with the Croda, DSM, and BASF. We look forward
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or otherwise without prior permission of the publisher
the same time delivering care to the hair Editor
ISSN 2041-0441

September 2012 P E R S O N A L C A R E 5
 NEWS DIGEST

Actives company acquired

The Lubrizol Corporation has announced that it Diverdrugs is the research and development portfolio, new technology and applications
has signed an agreement to purchase Lipotec SA, division of Lipotec, specialising in new active expertise that enhance Lubrizol’s ability to make
a leader in the development, manufacturing and compounds in the field of cosmetics and customers successful through expanded access
sales of personal care ingredients based on dermatology. Lipofoods develops and to innovative ingredients.”
three core technologies: peptide-based active manufactures functional health ingredients for the Lipotec has a strong history of innovation
cosmetic ingredients, delivery systems and food and beverage industry. The current owners of and focuses on high-performance applications in
biotechnology products. The purchase includes Lipotec Group will continue their activities in the skin care that include anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle,
Lipotec’s cosmetic active ingredients business pharmaceutical and cosmetic finished goods sensitive skin protection and moisturising.
and its subsidiaries, Diverdrugs and Lipofoods. segments through BCN Peptides, GP Pharm and This innovation is exemplified by Argireline, one
Founded in 1987 and headquartered in Prima-Derm which are not part of this transaction. of the most successful active ingredients ever
Barcelona, Spain, Lipotec, part of Lipotec “This acquisition follows our 2011 launched in the cosmetic market. The company
Group, is a leading global supplier of cosmetic acquisitions of Nalco’s conditioning polymer serves an international portfolio of customers
peptides, a key performance ingredient in skin business and Active Organics botanical in more than 45 countries, from multinational
care products. In addition to peptides and extracts and natural performance ingredients,” corporations to regional leaders.
delivery systems, Lipotec has a growing business commented Rick Tolin, Lubrizol vice president Once the transaction closes, Lipotec will
in biotechnology ingredients for personal care. and general manager, personal and home care. become a part of Lubrizol Advanced Materials,
Recognised Lipotec brands include Argireline, “Adding Lipotec further illustrates our with Lipotec, Diverdrugs and Lipofoods retaining
Snap 8, Antarcticine and Eyeseryl. commitment to providing a broad product their respective names.

Natural salicylic acid

introduced
Alban Muller International has presented a
major innovation: a natural salicylic acid,
a pure molecule extracted from wintergreen.
Website relaunch This ingredient provides a natural alternative
to salicylic acid commonly used in a synthetic
Dr Straetmans has launched a new website with form in cosmetics.
a new design. The general motif of the new This innovation has lead to two new
design is a fusion of human beauty and the ingredients. Firstly, Amipreserve is the only
aesthetics of natural resources – two main drivers completely natural, ecoresponsible cosmetic
for the company. For 30 years, Dr Straetmans preservative on the market to have been ecoresponsible active ingredient dedicated to
has being inspired by biological systems and accepted by the regulations. Its effectiveness achieving a perfect, radiant complexion. Its
natural ingredient sources for the creation of has been tested on bacterias, yeasts and keratolytic, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory
modern and effective cosmetic ingredients. moulds, and provides a safe anti-microbial action purifies the skin and promotes the
Dr Straetmans also presents its sustainability solution to protect cosmetic products. elimination of dead cells, smoothes blemishes
strategy in a new section on the homepage, along Amipreserve is colourless and odourless and wrinkles, and encourages the regeneration
with this is also new content on the company’s and is therefore an effective, natural alternative of the epidermis. Used in skin care products,
services regarding formulation development, to synthetic preservatives (parabens, Amiperfect refines the skin texture for a
regulatory affairs, hair care performance testing or phenoxyethanol, etc.) or essential oils. smoother, softer epidermis and a glowing,
microbiological assessment of finished products Secondly, Amiperfect is a completely natural, luminous complexion.
as well as hundreds of prototype formulations.

Eco-sustainability discussed in New York

Dr Roberto Dal Toso, IRB R&D manager, was The rapid growth of green biotechnologies in fact, comparative data with conventional
invited to speak at the HBA New York exhibition cosmetics is made obvious by the increased agriculture and extraction procedures have shown
during a session dedicated to green concepts and number of products based on plant stem cells. 99.9% water reduction and negligible soil
eco-sustainability. Since 2003, IRB oriented its R&D efforts in the occupation, which thus remains available for food
The Green and Natural Products session set up of the HTN technology, an exclusive cultivation, an 80% decrease of extraction
introduced a wide range of topics including the biotech method able to source non-GMO plant solvents together with the total abolition of
organic consumer profile and organic certifications, stem cell ingredients with a higher level of safety pesticides and a reduction of industrial waste.
new developments and trends in European and standardised active substances. This can be Thanks to all these advantages, HTN technology
and US markets and a sustainability and eco- obtained also from rare or endangered species, was the winner of the 2011 Italian Business
sustainability discussion about packaging choices, thus safeguarding biodiversity, and with a Awards for the Environment in the category ‘best
ingredient sourcing and manufacturing process. tremendous environmental impact reduction. In process and technology’.

6 P E R S O N A L C A R E September 2012
 NEWS DIGEST

Innovative skin care Plant cell

Lipotec has recently launched dermatological evaluation culture
two new solutions from its Aimtec showed its efficacy in
brand. decreasing erythema intensity acquisition
Delisens offers an innovative by 19.2% or skin redness by
mechanism of action directed at 17.7% after applying a cream Croda International Plc has announced the
treating several inflammatory with 2% Telangyn solution at acquisition of IRB (Istituto di Ricerche
and/or pruritogenic skin disorders, the end of a 4-week treatment. Biotecnologiche SpA). IRB entered the active
decreasing sensations of itching, From Biointec, Hyanify is a ingredients market in 2009 after 10 years of
redness or stinging in sensitive biotechnological marine-based research and as a result of its cutting edge
skin while helping to recover its ingredient with excellent technology and ‘know how’, it has become a
physiological tolerance threshold. hyaluronic acid boosting leader in the emerging market of plant cell
It is also recommended for dry- properties, leading to culture actives both in personal care and
sensitive skin; hydration increased by 34%, replenishing effect against dehydration and healthcare.
compared to placebo, after only one week of wrinkles. The mean depth of nasogenian folds A Croda spokesperson said: “This is an
applying a cream with 2% Delisens solution. decreased by 14.7% in only 14 days of applying exciting acquisition for Croda and the personal
Telangyn is a tetrapeptide specially developed a cream containing 1% Hyanify solution, as care industry. Croda, via the Sederma brand
to treat facial redness and telangiectasia. The showed in vivo. will use our knowledge, expertise and global
positioning to bring IRB’s world leading plant
cell culture technology to all of our customers.

Floral oil range unveiled Plant cell culture biotechnology is the leading
new technology for delivering proven activity
as well as true sustainability.”
A new range of floral oils has been launched by of botanicals and specific oils. This new range The IRB products will add to the Sederma
French company, Leticc. The new ingredients of macerates offers an almost unlimited product portfolio, already widely acclaimed for
are designed to be introduced into every kind of number of solutions for the formulator and the their peptide anti-ageing ingredients as well as
cosmetic product. marketing department. The raw materials bring other bioactive molecules. IRB will benefit from
The range, called Prodhyskin, are obtained emolliency to the skin and a smooth texture to significant investment as part of the Croda
thanks to the combination of a selected range the formula. group.

telangyn
™

Takes out the

thread of redness

DERMATOLOGICAL
EVALUATION

The intensity of erythema, redness and its extent decreased by 19.2%,

17.7% and 17.9%, respectively after 28 days of applying a cream containing
2% Telangyn™ Solution, as shown in the dermatological evaluation.

0 days 28 days

VISIT US ON STAND E50

AAFF_pmsa_Telangyn_ENG_180x125_220612.indd 1 22/06/12 10:50

September 2012 P E R S O N A L C A R E 7
 NEWS DIGEST

Anti-ageing peptide launch

The DSM Personal Care Business Unit has epidermis (the outermost layer of skin) to the VII, and XVII – also make a major contribution to
announced the global launch of its new anti- dermis, which in turn protects the body’s the functionality of the skin.
ageing peptide complex, SYN-TC. This product subcutaneous tissues. Collagen therefore makes SYN-TC makes use of three tailor–made
extends DSM’s successful SYN-Peptides product a major contribution to the appearance of the peptides (short polymers of amino acid
range, offering a new anti-ageing cosmetic skin, producing the firm and smooth look desired monomers linked by peptide bonds) to increase
ingredient with rapid action for skin smoothing. by consumers. Collagen levels in the body in vitro the formation of undamaged, stable and
The beauty of smooth skin is greatly valued by naturally decrease with age, however, the use of homogenous collagen types in the skin. These
consumers. They seek personal care solutions for state-of-the-art skin care ingredients helps to best-in-class synthetic peptides have been
the skin that are not only effective but also fast- experience the unique role of collagen against formulated and combined to achieve a visible
acting. SYN-TC sets high standards on both the signs of premature skin ageing. benefit for smoother skin and an overall improved
counts, delivering results in only 28 days. Various types of collagen exist. Skin care young looking skin appearance.
The group of naturally occurring proteins products have traditionally focused primarily on Extended in vivo studies using macro
known collectively as collagen is the most collagen I. They use ingredients to stimulate this photographs and computer-based three-
abundant protein in skin. It is the main form of collagen to smooth the skin. Other types dimensional skin imaging have confirmed a visible
component in connective tissue and anchors the of collagen, however – most notably types III, IV, anti-ageing benefit in only 28 days.

Norwegian Sustainable production

chitosan business
acquired
of natural alpha bisabolol
The candeia tree (Eremanthus publication of Brazilian laws
Chitinor AS has reached an agreement with erythropappus) is a species from referring to the sustainable use
BASF SE to acquire BASF’s marine biopolymers Brazil, with natural occurrence of candeia. The candeia tree is

www.citroleo.com.br Paulo Habermann

chitosan business operations. The deal marks concentrated mainly in Serra da the first species to receive
a strategic milestone for Chitinor’s business Mantiqueira and Serra do exclusive regulation thanks to
development plans for expanding its biopolymer Espinhaço in the state of Minas this research.
product ranges and business-to-business Gerais. The essential oil extracted Besides the implementation
operations. from this wood is rich in of a stewardship plan on its
Under the agreement Chitinor will acquire (-)-alpha-bisabolol, widely used private forests, which concerns
production facilities in Tromsø, Norway, in cosmetics and pharmaceutical not only planned removal of
inventories, patents, Chitopharm trademark, industries due to its well-known trees but also preservation of
product and application technologies, and anti-inflammatory properties. good trees for sowing and natural
global customer portfolio for all chitosan Through appropriate regeneration, Citróleo maintains
product ranges, including functional cosmetic stewardship techniques, it is possible to explore a programme for seedling production.
ingredients and Chitopharm pharmaceutical this natural resource according to sustainable This programme, which includes the
ingredients with corresponding Drug Master practices. production and distribution of more than
Files. The transaction is expected to be formally In Brazil, thanks to research supported by 100,000 seedlings of candeia trees per year, is
completed in August 2012. CItróleo and CNPq, the Federal University of conducted on Citróleo’s farm in Baependi, Minas
“With the acquisition of BASF’s chitosan Lavras (UFLA) defined the ideal approache Gerais, where experimental studies are also
business operations, we are significantly for conservation of natural forests of candeia. developed in partnership with UFLA, focusing on
strengthening our product and customer As a result, this research has lead to the sustainable management of natural forests.
portfolio for our arine biopolymer business area.
The inclusion of BASF’s production facilities in
Tromsø is a strategic and synergistic fit to our
existing biopolymer operations in Troms,
Northern Norway,” said Thorleif Thormodsen,
Technical training for new
CEO of Seagarden ASA and Chairman of the
Board of Seagarden ASA’s fully-owned daughter
company, Chitinor AS. “The combination of
hair care ingredients
BASF’s proprietary technology for tailored In July, IMCD’s personal care team attended an market: colour retention
manufacture of high quality chitosans for advanced technical training session on new and heat protection for the
cosmetic and pharmaceutical uses and Belsil grades with Wacker Chemie’s technical hair. These products in hair
Chitinor’s track-record and know-how related to team. In-depth technical presentations and conditioners and shampoo
chitin based biopolymers will provide our workshops were followed by formulation formulations are easy to
customers with a strong supply-chain for top sessions carried out at IMCD’s application use and have shown
quality products unmatched by anyone. laboratory based in Italy, where the team excellent test results as
Importantly, the acquisition also represents a displayed its technical expertise. protectors of hair damage
valuable addition to our customer portfolio in Among the several new Wacker products, caused by heat, as well as
the cosmetic and pharmaceutical markets,” the main focus was on hair care with new enhancing of high gloss,
added Bjarte Langhelle, commercial director. amodimethicone emulsions and gums that fit silky touch and the colour
perfectly with the latest hair care trends in the retention of hair.

8 P E R S O N A L C A R E September 2012
 NEWS DIGEST

Natural and organic certification

Honeywell has announced that one of its NFF 11E is the first Honeywell Asensa variety of end-use applications ranging from
Asensa personal care ingredients, Asensa NFF product to be based on renewable ingredients lipsticks to moisturisers to pressed powders.
11E, has been certified by Groupe Ecocert for and is ideal for formulations that have a high Asensa products increase permanency,
use in natural and organic cosmetics. Asensa concentration of renewable ingredient content. emolliency, moisture retention, water
NFF 11E (INCI: Hydrolyzed Corn Starch) is a Ecocert is an inspection and certification resistance and thermal stability. They act as
film-former for the European market made from body established in France in 1991 by film-formers and structuring agents for oils.
corn starch derived from non-genetically- agronomists aware of the need to develop The line also includes size-regulated materials
modified corn. NFF 11E can be dispersed to environmentally friendly agriculture and of the for exfoliation as well as micronised products
form a latex, and third-party studies have shown importance of offering some form of recognition (some as small in size as 3 micron) for dry
that it performs equally as well as synthetic to those committed to this method of lubrication and binding. The Asensa DS line of
polymers in hair fixative applications. It can also production. zeolites includes odour-absorbing and warming
be used in skin care formulations. Honeywell Asensa products are used in a materials.

Expanded
New technology for manufacturing
cosmetics manufacture Grant Industries, a global supplier in personal
care, announces the addition of its new
At this year’s Beyond Beauty in Paris, Romaco distribution and product quality. The improved 100,000 ft2 manufacturing facility in northern
will present the FrymaKoruma Dinex Lab vacuum tool geometry enables the product processing New Jersey. The facility represents the company’s
processing plant and the toothed colloid mill time within the homogeniser to be extended and commitment to future growth and sustainability
FrymaKoruma MZ 110 for the manufacture of increases the overall efficiency of the system. in the personal care industry. Along with three
cosmetics and healthcare products. The optimised energy input is a particular other New Jersey manufacturing sites and
FrymaKoruma Dinex Lab vacuum processing advantage for shear-sensitive products. global R&D headquarters, Grant also conducts
unit featuring a new homogeniser generation The tiny droplet sizes achieved with this system operations out of Beijing, China to fully support
facilitates optimal processing times, droplet enhances the very high quality of the Asia-Pacific region.
the creams, ointments, lotions and
dispersions being manufactured.
The toothed colloid mills in the Mobile
FrymaKoruma MZ series assure
each product is always milled to the correct website
size. The technology is suited for wet grinding
cosmetic applications and healthcare products launched
of almost any viscosity. Users can choose
between coarse, standard or cross-toothed tools After the recent launch of
depending on the product type. The milling gap its new website, Silab has
can be individually adjusted. MZ mills show now has unveiled a new
excellent capability for hygiene management mobile version of the site.
and product safety owing to the systematic The Silab mobile website (m.silab.fr) has
elimination of dead spaces from the milling been optimised to improve accessibility in
interior and the integration of CIP (Cleaning in terms of its content as well as its ergonomics:
Place) and SIP (Sterilisation in Place). simple navigation, optimised window, improved
functionality and quick page download.

New look website and scent profile

Düllberg Konzentra has developed a new scent feature attractive, large-format photos; a dark wonderfully is captured in our new visual
profile in the shape of a clear, timeless visual background gives a clear-cut, sophisticated look- language – and, naturally, in our day-to-day
language which eloquently communicates and-feel. The photos play with light and shadow; work. We give our customers the space for their
the company’s values and competencies. they depict portraits, impressions from within the visions and at the same time put our expertise
The new look will be featured on the redesigned company, technical details and stylised images at their service to help make these visions a
website, a specially developed smartphone of natural ingredients and products. reality.”
version of the site and in the new brochure. “Perfumery is something that is very The clarity of the visual language is continued
“It was time to unveil a modern face that aesthetic, almost magical,” explains Christian in the menu structure of the new website.
shows our customers at first glance just what Düllberg. “We not only create captivating, A new feature is the news section, which
it is that makes us so unique,” says Christian fragrant works of art, we also set incredibly high provides customers and all those interested in
Düllberg, managing director of Düllberg standards in technology, precision and quality. the company with information about the latest
Konzentra. The new website and print brochure The fact that these contrasts harmonise so developments at Düllberg Konzentra.

10 P E R S O N A L C A R E September 2012
 NEWS DIGEST

Sustainable sourcing featured in Rio

Dr Fred Zülli, managing director of industry professionals to look ahead excellent benefits on skin. And, on the other side
Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland, was and to further contribute to sustainable they can be used in cosmetics without harming
invited to discuss sustainable sourcing development in the various industries. the environment. In particular because only very
of raw material for the beauty industry Dr Fred Zülli discussed the little plant material (e.g. one fruit or one leaf) is
during Rio+20, the UN Conference on company’s PhytoCellTec technology used to establish the plant stem cells culture.
Sustainable Development. Rio+20 was which was highlighted as an eco- Therefore, this biotechnology protects and helps
the biggest UN conference ever held, breakthrough in natural cosmetic to preserve rare and endangered plants. Also, no
with broad participation of leaders from ingredients as it allows cultivation of agricultural land is required to produce biomass
government, business and civil society, plant stem cells. On one side these and there is a significant reduction of water
as well as UN officials and academics. plant stem cells contain the most consumption compared to conventional biomass
Furthermore it brought together active molecules which have shown production.

Innovative photostabiliser South American

The HallStar Company has launched Polycrylene better UV protection. Like Polycrylene, Polycrylene
affiliate
S1, a new singlet-quenching photostabiliser that S1 is also a film-forming polymer that enhances Gattefossé Group has announced the creation
helps formulators meet FDA standards for the substantivity of sunscreen formulations. of its eleventh worldwide affiliate: Gattefossé
broad-spectrum claims and enhances the water “The sun is a powerful adversary to many Do Brasil, located in São Paulo.
resistance of sun care and daily wear products. active ingredients. For instance, it makes UV The objective of this new entity is to
Polycrylene S1 allows formulators to combine filters like Avobenzone start to lose effectiveness reinforce Gattefossé’s presence in Latin
active ingredients once considered too photo- almost immediately upon exposure,” said John America, a growing market and a place for
unstable to be effective. Polycrylene S1 replaces Paro, HallStar president, chairman, and CEO. opportunities for both personal care and
the triplet-quenching portion of Polycrylene (INCI: “Innovative photostabilisers like Polycrylene S1 pharmaceutical ingredients. Lead by Mrs
Polyester-8) with a singlet-state quencher. The help skin and sun care formulators meet and Amanda Botelho Pimentel, Gattefossé do
result is a powerful photostabiliser that improves exceed consumer requirements for better UVA Brasil will support distributors and facilitate
sunscreens and daily wear products, providing and UVB protection.” contacts with all customers in Latin America.

E U R O P E LT D

How many cosmetic raw materials

tick all the boxes?
Truly Natural  Superfatting 
Renewable  Skin Repairing 
Recycled 100%
 Protecting 
Environmentally Friendly  Moisturising 
Hypoallergenic  Multifunctional 

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September 2012 P E R S O N A L C A R E 11