Comprehensive Credit Repair 10-18-07

COMPREHENSIVE
CREDIT REPAIR
by Joseph L. Chiappetta Jr.
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COMPREHENSIVE CREDIT REPAIR
by Joseph L. Chiappetta, Jr.
SECTION SUBJECT
** Index of Forms / Letters

*** Introduction
I Questions and Answers
II Organizing Your Credit Picture
III Paying Your Debts
IV Credit Reports – Obtaining, Reading, Types Of
V Negotiations, Q&A
VI Collections / Cease Collections
VII Form Letters for Escalating Your Attack
VIII Credit Bureau Dispute
IX The Credit Score Rx Kit
X Identity Theft
Parting Shot
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INDEX OF FORMS / LETTERS/ WORKSHEETS
FORM / LETTERS/WORKSHEETS
Debt Consolidation Worksheet

Monthly Household Budget
Bank Credit Cards
Retail Credit Cards
Mortgage Accounts
Car Loans
Bank Loans / Unsecured Loans
Medical Accounts
IRS Settlement / Tax Debts
Extra Work Area
Record of Payments
Credit Bureau Report Request Letter
Debt Settlement Agreement
Credit Bureau Update Letter
Unrated Account Agreement
Inquiry Dispute Letter
Cease Collection Letter
To Creditor, Sent w/ Notice of Summons and Complaint
To Debt Collection Agency, Sent w/ Notice of Summons and Complaint
To Creditor, Billing Errors, Sent w/ Notice of Summons and Complaint
To Creditor, Wrong Billing Address, Cash for Clear Credit Agreement
To Creditor, Cash for Clear Credit Agreement
Credit Bureau Dispute Letter
ID Theft Affidavit
Fraudulent Account Statement
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FOR BEST RESULTS YOU MUST READ THIS FIRST!
This comprehensive repair guide is written expressly for those who already have a need for credit
repair and are looking for effective ways to resolve outstanding issues in their credit histories. We
firmly believe that the need for credit repair techniques are mostly unnecessary if people will follow
one simple, but sometimes difficult to apply financial strategy; live within your means.
Living within your means can be thought of as making sure, each month, that you have money left
in your checkbook or bank account after every debt and/obligation is paid. This includes setting
aside enough money to pay all of your bills for six months in case you lose your job. It also means
putting 10% to 30% of your take-home pay aside in a savings and investment fund of some sort.
There are places in today‟s economy where you can safely earn 20% to 30% year after year. And
with some commitment you can reasonably expect to set aside several million dollars by the time
you retire. Some people do it a lot earlier. Look for the success stories.
Living within your means also is learning to resist buying everything you think you need. If you
take a look at everything you bought last month you would find that most of your purchases were
things you wanted, but in most cases didn‟t really need. Resist the temptation to use buying as a
form of “medication” to ease the pain of everyday life. You are just tightening the noose you
already have created around your financial neck. Try buying most of your necessities online. We
have found, in addition to convenience, it is a great way to eliminate impulse buying.
Credit problems come from a lack of discipline and you must make a conscious decision to have
good credit. It is your responsibility to take care of yourself financially. Nobody is going to do it for
you. The good news is that it is not nearly as hard as you think it is once you get going. Many
people, we included, make a game out of building excellent credit ratings. We know that is hard to
believe from the position most of you find yourselves in right now. Why else would you be reading
this guide, right?
So use this guide wisely. Use the techniques you will learn here to make a commitment to yourself
to change your financial future. Get out of debt once and keep going. Make financial freedom your
dream and then your reality.
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I. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
On the subject of credit, there is a tremendous amount of information to cover, and the
information changes frequently. The following is the most current information available. We begin
with a Question & Answer format. These are most of the frequently asked questions that we have
been asked. For many, finally getting a direction, even knowing that there is one, has been a great
relief. We believe these questions and answers will do exactly that for you.
How Can I Pay My Bills For Only 3-15% of What I Owe Without Bankruptcy?
The thing most feared by creditors is that you will actually file for bankruptcy. In fact, even
with the new bankruptcy laws, they still stand to lose all of the money you owe. By failing to pay
your debt for a period of more than six months, your account will be written off as a loss. This is
known as a “profit and loss write-off” or a “charge-off” which means the debt can‟t be collected. In
fact, standard accounting practices dictate that any debt unpaid for six or more months must be
considered uncollectible. At this point the debt is either sold or transferred to a collection or legal
department.
Since the creditor has written off your debt, you can now contact them and offer to make a
settlement. Most know that if they don‟t accept something, they won‟t get anything, and therefore
are quite open to making a payment arrangement. When you offer them a partial settlement (five or
ten percent of the debt), they may ask you for an accounting of your finances to back up your claim
that this amount is all you can afford. You‟re not obligated to comply, but some sort of written
response may speed their acceptance of your terms. Mind you, this is not a guaranteed system, but
it is quite common to make settlements such as are described here.
Is There A “Fill-In-The-Blank” Form Letter I Can Use To Clean Up My Debts And Credit?
Yes. Some easy-to-follow forms with blanks for your account numbers and the amount of
your settlement offers are included with this packet. These are also designed to protect your
interests by spelling out the terms of your new payment agreement. Please feel free to use these
templates as a guideline, or use them “as is”.
How Do I Get A Free Copy Of My Credit Report?
There are a number of ways to do this, and some vary by state. One way is by challenging
an error on your report. The bureaus will generally respond with a copy of your report.
What Is The Easiest Way To Make My Debts Disappear?
There are two basic ways. The first is to wait. Unless your creditor has a court judgment
against you on any particular debt, all record of the debt will disappear from your credit report in
seven years (except for bankruptcy which lasts for ten years). By simply waiting, time will erase
your problem; then, by opening new accounts, you will get new credit and a good rating. The
second way is to pay off your debts more quickly. By strategically refinancing your mortgage, you
can use the equity in your home to immediately pay off all of your high-interest credit. It is not
unusual to save as much as $1000 per month by using this method. Additionally, by applying this
savings to your principal, your mortgage will be paid at double or triple speed. This will save you
literally hundreds of thousands of dollars.
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How Long Will It Take Me To Recover From Bankruptcy?
There was a time when bankruptcy stained your credit for decades. This is no longer the
case. An entire industry has sprung up to offer fresh credit to the recently bankrupt. Even mortgage
companies will work with you, some when you first file your bankruptcy plan, and others after
you‟ve completed it, and/or waited one year.
Can I Get A Credit Card, Even Though I‟ve Been Declined Over And Over Again?
Yes. There are many „secured credit card‟ programs for those who have been repeatedly
declined credit. In this „secured‟ arrangement, you establish a regular savings account with a bank
offering such a card, say for $200. The bank then issues you a credit card with a $200 to $300
spending limit. Some banks have a stipulation that your credit must be clean for the past three
months. Others have absolutely no rules other than that you must deposit at least $100 in your
secured account.
Be advised that any money in this secured account is meant only as insurance against your
potential failure to pay. You must pay the bill each month. If you pay your bill on time, you can
get unsecured credit in as little as six months, with a limit increase in six more months (many
secured card companies will give you an „unsecured‟ or regular credit card with as much as a $2000
spending limit). This process of moving from secured to unsecured credit is an excellent and
increasingly common way to establish a restored, positive personal credit history. Several highly
recommended secured card programs and their terms are available at
www.betterfinancialsolutions.com.
Can I Use Legal Pressure To Repair My Credit?
The way credit bureaus report on you is controlled by a strict set of laws and court rulings.
One ruling in particular found that a credit bureau wasn‟t protected by the first amendment in the
way a magazine or news agency might be. The law says that, as long as a publisher‟s error isn‟t
intentional, they are „held harmless‟. The credit bureau, on the other hand, was ruled to be selling
an information product which is purported to be accurate. When the product fails, whether by
mistake or not, the bureau is liable for the damages they‟ve caused, with no limitation. It‟s a
product liability issue.
Bad credit is repaired by identifying errors in your credit, and then bringing those errors to
the attention of the credit bureau. Initially, they often respond that they have inquired of your
creditor and confirmed that the negative credit entry is accurate. Even if that is not true, they won‟t
remove it. This is where you get out the bigger guns and inform them that they are obligated to
have a “preponderance of systems in place” (Fair Credit Reporting Act) in order to avoid such
errors. Merely reconfirming the initial error is insufficient. If they refuse to do their job, you have
even bigger guns. In the forms section, there is a Notice of Complaint and a Summons and
Complaint. The „Notice‟ is an initial step to show your serious intent. The „Summons‟ is the last
step before you go to court. Bear in mind that credit bureaus don‟t like to go to court, because they
generally acknowledge (to themselves anyway) that their system is flawed and that they have
serious liabilities.
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How Can I Stop The Harassing Collection Efforts Of My Creditors?
Write your creditor a letter, certified/return receipt requested, stating you will no longer
honor their collection attempts, and that they may no longer contact you by phone or in writing
regarding your account. The Fair Debt Collection Practices Act states that the creditor may only
contact you once more, to tell you what action they will take since you have asked them to stop.
Can Asking About A Car Can Loan Trigger A Negative Entry On My Credit Report?
When you apply for a loan, an Inquiry is recorded on your credit. Too many of these can
lower your credit rating. A creditor has the right to look at your credit if they have a reasonable
belief that you might enter into an agreement involving the extension of credit terms. By writing to
your credit bureau and explaining that you were shopping around and merely pricing, not actually
requesting credit, you can get the inquiry deleted. Today‟s credit scoring system better takes into
account this „shopping around‟ process. If you look at credit terms for automobiles over a two
week period, no matter how many times, this will show up as only one inquiry.
I Have Heard Of Interest-Free Credit Card Rates. How Can I Get One?
Many credit card companies offer 0% teaser offers for the first six months that you have the
card. By switching your balance from one card to another, moving from 0% offer to 0% offer, you
can borrow money at no interest almost indefinitely. However, keep in mind that record keeping is
an extremely vital part of this process.
Can I Get A Lower Interest Rate, Or Even A Refund?
Call your creditor and ask that your rate be lowered somewhat, specify that you want the
lower rate applied retroactively, and let them know that you have offers from other creditors at a
better rate. You can pay less now and get money taken off your existing debt. The credit card
business is a field of great competition – take advantage.
Is It Possible To Punish Creditors Who Harass Me?
Under the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act, every violation of collection rules is
punishable by a $1000 fine, payable to you. For example, your request that you are no longer to be
contacted, if violated, will net you $1000 per incident in court. Many attorneys make their entire
living exercising this law. By carefully recording your request that you are left alone and then
recording phone calls from creditors using the record device on your answering machine, you will
likely catch more than one creditor violating these laws.
Should I Wait To Pay Off My Credit Card Balance?
If you are delinquent on your bills, the only leverage you have is the money you still owe.
Before you actually settle your debt, negotiate an agreement with your creditor that includes how
the debt will be reported on your credit report. Make them agree not to respond to any credit bureau
inquiries about the account‟s status. This way, when you finally pay, your bad credit will be
removable. You can challenge the credit bureaus saying that you “don‟t believe the creditor will
confirm the negative information on the report”. Since your creditor has agreed, as part of your
payment terms, not to confirm the negative information, the item must be removed. The law states
that any disputed credit that is unanswered within thirty days must be removed from your report.
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Who Should I Deal With At A Credit Company?
Start with the customer service department. After you have exhausted your efforts with
customer service, the only place you will likely get satisfaction is with the legal department, or
sometimes the recovery department, and occasionally the collections department. By complaining
about specific violations of the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act, you will certainly get their
attention, especially if you use the Notice (or summons) and Complaint, with a letter from the Letter
Writing section. Always ask to speak to a manager, and become deaf to the word „no‟. Remember,
everyone at the company is encouraged to say “no”, but few are authorized to say “yes”. Through
persistence, you will eventually find the person who has the authorization to agree to your terms.
What Credit Card Industry‟s Policy Can Add Thousands Of Dollars To A Mortgage?
There is a policy found in the small print on many credit card applications that says
essentially “no matter what rate we give you, if we find out in the future that you are late, or were
late with another creditor, we can as much as double your rate.” Suddenly, your manageable bills
can become unmanageable and even one late mark on an account turns it from a good account into a
bad one. This can also change the income ratios used to judge any future mortgage application.
Remember; first and foremost; always pay your mortgage on time. This can mean a difference in
all future debt negotiations.
How Do Lenders Trick You Into High Interest Products Without Your Knowledge?
The first answer is „Marketing‟. The industry is counting on you to react to the product
offered and sign the credit application without reading the fine print. The documents for credit
application are long, complicated and hard to understand, even for an expert. Once you sign your
name, you‟ve signed away any future argument about the terms. Think carefully before applying
for new credit, and if you do to apply, read the fine print, asking as many questions as necessary
until you completely understand the offer. Many of these offers have terms which will substantially
change your payment amount and interest rate without any notice. If you pay during your grace
period (an allowed time of later payment) you won‟t get a bad credit mark to tip you off to a
problem, but your interest rate might go up, perhaps to as much as 21%, without any obvious sign.
This is how a good deal for you becomes a hugely profitable deal for them.
Another trap to look for occurs when you make your minimum monthly payment while you
are near your credit limit. By using your grace period, you can technically violate your credit limit
because your new bills are at a much higher rate and what used to be the right minimum payment is
now much too little. You can incur hundreds of dollars in over limit fees.
What Are The 6 P‟s Of Successful Personal Finance Management?
Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Personal Performance. Every part of this booklet is
arranged to help you prepare and stay prepared. For example, with a little preplanning, you can
save hundreds of thousands of dollars by prepaying your mortgage. Any extra payment amount
each month will affect the overall outcome. By paying as little as $50 extra per month you can save
years and many thousands of dollars over the life of your agreement. Want to save embarrassment
while shopping for a new car or home? First find out exactly what you can afford. Knowledge is
power.
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II. ORGANIZING YOUR CREDIT PICTURE
Setting Your Goals.
Among the most important tools you can use in the pursuit of credit and financial success
are planning and goal setting. So, where do you start? Set your goals and decide what corrective
actions you need to take first. It may be that you need to correct poor credit. Maybe you need to
consider bankruptcy or, having recently emerged from it, need a path back to the top. If you don‟t
yet have a plan, this is the right place for you to start.
For those who don‟t immediately know which issue is in need of resolution, it is best to
make a list of all your financial challenges. For some of you, it will be debt. For others, it might be
income – you would like to earn more to reach your dreams – still others might feel that they simply
need a plan where none exists now. Prioritizing your life is an ongoing challenge. Even for those
with experience at following a self organized agenda, redoing this effort on a regular, at least
annual, basis can be an enlightening exercise. Organizing involves writing, because without a
written plan, what you hope for is likely to remain a dream, never to become fruitful reality. This is
a time for making lists, for being honest and forthright with yourself.
Getting Organized.
Listing your debts is likely the most important first step in creating an overall plan. Once
your debt has been mastered, you can then decipher the financial power available from your present
income. From there, you can begin to decide what you need and what you will have to do to get it.
What is it about the necessary reality of facing debt that causes so many people to put their
heads in the sand? Problems are rarely as bad as fearing them. When you understand exactly what
you owe, you can figure out what you need to resolve that issue. Money is a tool toward fulfilling
your goals. Planning, with an accurate view of your debts, is the way to reach those goals.
Distinguishing amongst wants, needs, and desires is an additional important benefit of this exercise.
Looking At The Whole Picture.
We have added a worksheet that covers total debts, your monthly payments, and the interest
rate associated with each, and we‟ve also added the „people‟ side of the equation. You will list who
you have already spoken to in connection with a debt, whether or not more than one party (such as a
collection agency) is involved, the type of debt, and how important that debt is to the overall
picture.
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Start Your Organization By Type Of Credit.
To organize your credit, differentiate between mortgage, auto, credit card, store credit card,
and debit cards. Include the account‟s payment status. Whether it is on time, currently paid in full,
thirty, sixty, or ninety days late, and how many times lateness has occurred are primary examples.
The worst sort of credit comes in categories such as Foreclosure on a mortgage. Charge off and its
equivalent Profit-and-Loss Write-off notes debts your creditor considers uncollectible. On an actual
credit report, a series of codes represent these written phrases. The codes will be explained, but
plain English is the most useful for your personal working plan. Instead of credit status codes, you
can use your own description of where you stand. For instance, you might write “account is late,
but only once, not four times like the credit report says.” Fill this out carefully and accurately.
Start the worksheets with your mortgage payment or rent payment. On your credit report,
this debt is signified by an M and the addition of a number between 01 and 09. For your purpose
here, you should know that an M01 is a perfect or nearly perfect credit score, and an M09 is the
worst rating.
Debt Worksheets
Their order of importance is as follows:
1. Begin with credit rated with an M for Mortgage

2. Next is credit rated with an I for Installment (car or finance company loan)
3. Finally, fill in the accounts that have an R, representing revolving debts
such as bank or store credit cards.
Again, the numbers 1-9 added to the letter summarize the range of good to bad payment
history. Following the debt consolidation worksheet is one for household income and expenses.
These two, when seen together, give the clearest picture of your money situation.
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DEBT CONSOLIDATION WORKSHEET
Creditor & Type (M, I, R) Balance Owed Rate Monthly

Of Payment Payment
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________
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MONTHLY HOUSEHOLD BUDGET
For the month of ____________________
MONTHLY INCOME MONTHLY EXPENSE
Salaries $_____________ Mortgage $_____________

Commissions/Bonus $_____________ Rent $_____________
Interest $_____________ Food $_____________
Dividends $_____________ Auto Loan $_____________
Alimony $_____________ Utilities $_____________
Child Support $_____________ Credit Card Accounts $_____________
Rent $_____________ Charge Accounts $_____________
Royalties $_____________ Insurance Premiums $_____________
Sales of Property $_____________ Installment Loans $_____________
Trust Fund $_____________ Travel and Gasoline $_____________
Annuities $_____________ Clothing $_____________
Pensions $_____________ Personal Care $_____________
Social Security $_____________ Health Care $_____________
Other __________ $_____________ Child Care $_____________
________________ $_____________ Education $_____________
________________ $_____________ Home Maintenance $_____________
________________ $_____________ Membership Fees $_____________
Entertainment/Recreation $_____________
Contributions $_____________
Property Tax $_____________
Investments $_____________
Savings $_____________
Other _________________ $_____________
TOTAL MONTHLY INCOME TOTAL MONTHLY EXPENSE
$_____________ $_____________
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III. PAYING YOUR DEBTS
Paying Your Debts
The following worksheets are for compiling a complete record of your debt repayment
efforts. If you don‟t know the interest rate you are paying on a particular debt, you should contact
your creditor. The interest rate can be the primary factor in deciding who to pay or when to
negotiate a lower payment. Even though you are working with your personal finances, it is time to
start operating as a well-run business would. You are recording, evaluating and prioritizing your
debts. You can then make factually based decisions on how to use your income best. There is a
Record of Payments form at the end of the section you should use as a second page for any account
settlements requiring multiple payments.
Keep your records together in one place, making work on the phone or traveling with your
information easier. You can staple bills and receipts to the forms, keeping these items readily
available. One critically important change in your new financial business is to always know where
things stand. Many of us put off important follow through because we need to find something and
can‟t take the effort to search for it. You should make a copy of your tax return‟s front page and
include it in your file. Mark on the copy where the original is.
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BANK CREDIT CARDS
ACCOUNT STATUS
PAYMENT HISTORY
Debt priority # _________ MasterCard Visa Amex

Discover Optima Other
Account number _________________________ Was late Charge off
Lender name ____________________________ Is late Judgment
Address ________________________________ Collection Closed
_______________________________________ Date Opened _______________
Phone # (_____) _________________________ Expiration Date _____________
Balance $_____________ Annual Percentage Rate _____%
Minimum Payment $________ Credit Limit $________ Total interest owed $_________
Month/Year of last payment __________________________
How many payment have you missed ___________________
Total amount overdue (update every 30 days) $___________
Name ___________________________ Direct Phone (_____) _______________________
Address ______________________________________________________________________
Date of 1st contact ______________ Outcome _________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Date of 2nd contact ______________ Outcome _________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Date notice of claim sent ______________ Date federal suit filed _______________________
Name ___________________________ Direct Phone (_____) _______________________
Address ______________________________________________________________________
Date of 1st contact ______________ Outcome _________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Date of 2nd contact ______________ Outcome _________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
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Debt priority # ______________ Account Status
Account number ______________________ Was late Charge off
Lender name _________________________ Is late Judgment
Address _____________________________ Collection
____________________________________
Phone # (____) _______________________
Balance $_______________ Annual Percentage Rate ________%
Minimum Payment $________ Credit Limit $________ Total interest owed $_____________

Name ___________________________ Direct Phone (_____) _________________________
Address ________________________________________________________________________
Date of 1st contact ______________ Outcome ___________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Date of 2nd contact ______________ Outcome ___________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Date notice of claim sent ______________ Date federal suit filed _________________________
Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________

Account number ______________________ Was late
Lender name _________________________ Is late
Address _____________________________ Foreclosure filed
____________________________________
Phone # (____) _______________________
Property Address _____________________ Section #______ Block#_____ Lot #_____
Mortgage Value ______________________ Yearly taxes ____________%
Payment $________ Total interest owed $_____________

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Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________
Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________

Account number ______________________ Was late
Lender name _________________________ Is late
Address _____________________________ Repossessed/Returned to owner
____________________________________ End of lease
Phone # (____) _______________________ Equity (if any) $________________
(Value – Balance Due) $________________
Payment $________ Total interest owed $_____________

Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________
Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________
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Lender name _________________________ Is late Judgment
Address _____________________________
____________________________________
Phone # (____) _______________________
Payment $________ Total interest owed $___________

Name ___________________________ Direct Phone ( _____) _________________________
Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________
Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________
Notes: _________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

Doctor/Facility name __________________ Is late Judgment
____________________________________
Phone # (____) _______________________
Balance $_______________ Minimum Payment $__________
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Terms of Payment Agreement _______________________________________________________

Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________
Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________
Notes: _________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

Account number ______________________ Settlement agreement
Lender name _________________________ Installation agreement
____________________________________ Tax lien
Phone # (____) _______________________
Minimum Payment $________ Total interest owed $_____________

Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
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Follow-up date _________________
Address ________________________________________________________________________
Follow-up date _________________
Follow-up date _________________
Date Amount Paid Balance
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
__________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
___________________ $__________________ $__________________
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RETAIL CREDIT CARDS
PAYMENT HISTORY
CONTACTS FOR NEGOTIATION
First Contact Person

Second Contact Person
MORTGAGE ACCOUNTS
PAYMENT HISTORY

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CAR LOANS
PAYMENT HISTORY

21
BANK LOANS / UNSECURED LOANS
PAYMENT HISTORY

22
MEDICAL ACCOUNT
PAYMENT HISTORY

IRS SETTLEMENTS / TAX DEBTS
PAYMENT HISTORY

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Extra Work Area
Record of Payments
Date of Payment Name of Creditor Account # Payment Due Date Amount Paid Balance
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IV. CREDIT REPORTS – OBTAINING, READING, TYPES OF
How To Get Your Credit Report
In order to negotiate or fix your credit, you will need to see how it is reported. Experian (was
TRW), Trans Union, and Equifax are the three largest companies that gather and resell credit
information. It is necessary to obtain your credit history from each bureau to get a full picture, because
any single reporting agency may or may not have a complete record of your activities.
There is more than one type of credit report, and it is necessary to differentiate between them.
The most common consumer version often fails to give credit score information – the main criteria for
deciding what interest rate you will pay on a loan. A professional report obtained from a single credit
bureau is referred to in the banking trade as an infile. It includes a credit score and a detailed record of
how you actually paid your debts on a month-by-month basis. A report that combines at least two and
preferably three individual credit bureau infiles is referred to in the reporting trade as a Trimerge, and
in the mortgage trade as a full factual or residential mortgage credit report. This is a complete picture
of your credit history used in making decisions for home and auto loans and other large purchases.
Steps To Get Your Report
You can get a free report from any credit bureau if it reported data used in a decision used to
deny you credit. To obtain this free report you must submit the following information:
A copy of the rejection letter of the creditor

Your full name
A copy of a photo ID
Current address and previous address if different in the last 5 years
A copy of your driver‟s license, social security card or a bill sent to your home address.
The following states have legislated your right to a free credit report each year: CO, GA, MD, MA,
NJ, and VA.
Credit bureaus provide a free report as part of a dispute resolution process, though Experian has
been known to send an updated version of only the exact portion of your report in dispute. The three
bureaus often have overlapping information, but just as often, they have disagreeing or unique entries
on your credit history. It takes at least two and preferably three reports to get a complete picture.
Look at a Trimerge every six months and no less than 30 days prior to a major purchase.
It costs approximately $8 to obtain a report from any of the three bureaus. You can find out the
exact fee using the 800 numbers listed below. It may take up to thirty days to receive a response to
your request, so be patient.
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Credit Bureau Contact Information
Experian www.experian,com
(888) 397-3742
Or, for applicable states, to request your free report call (866) 200-6020.
Experian
P.O. Box 2104
Allen, TX 75013
Trans Union www.transunion.com.
(800) 916-8800
Trans Union
760 Sproul Road
Box 403
Springfield, PA 19064
Equifax Information Service www.equifax.com.
(800) 685-1111
Equifax Credit Information Services, Inc.
P.O. Box 740241
Atlanta, GA 30374
Credit bureaus change their addresses in an effort to thwart credit repair organizations, which
are recognized by their use of old addresses in high volume dispute mailings. It is always a good idea
to confirm the address by calling first.
Protect Yourself
When sending correspondence, always do the following:
Use return receipt requested/certified mail at the post office. This ensures that you have proof
the correspondence was received.
Photocopy everything you mail.
Keep a file and document the date you mailed any letter.
Send a second request if a response doesn‟t arrive within one month from the original letter
date, sooner if it‟s urgent.
If you encounter delaying tactics when trying to get a report, it is often helpful to explain that
you will contact the FTC to inform them of the credit bureau‟s failure. Credit bureaus are obligated by
law to provide consumers with requested information within 45 days from receipt of a demand.
Beware of tactics that include asking for documents that were already included and asking for
additional proof of identity. If your address has changed often over the years, you may be denied a
copy of your report because you are requesting it be sent to the „wrong address‟. Providing proof that
you have received official bills or mail in your name at an address will cure the problem. In order to
avoid these hassles, make your requests brief, your identity confirmation and photocopies clear, and
your address consistent across all documents you provide.
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How To Read Your Credit Report
Credit reports were originally intended for use by professionals, and are generally difficult to
understand. More people have access to their reports these days, so the bureaus have felt the need,
reluctantly, to make them somewhat easier to read. It is still difficult to fully understand all the coding
and information gaps. Even some professionals are confused as to the meaning of the parts of a given
report. Making decoding difficult is absolutely done with purpose. You can‟t fight what you don‟t
understand.
Probably just as important to understanding how to read your report is figuring out how to fight
what‟s wrong. Some bureaus, for instance, use a code of 1s and 2s to express if an account was paid
on time or 30 days late. The trouble is a 1 can mean 30 days late on one bureau‟s report, or it can
mean on time on another‟s; a 2 can mean either 30 or 60 days late, again depending on where you get
your information.
Most accounts are represented by the following information:
The name of the creditor and the type of creditor

Your account number
The status of the account – open, closed, past due …
Whether individual payments were timely or late
A brief explanation of number and letter codes may be located on the back side of a consumer
credit report. In some cases, credit bureaus will offer, for a fee, a more concise booklet on reading
credit. This is self published as both a profit center, and a way of warding off complainers. (“Why
don‟t you just buy the book, Sir?”) Do not count on the bureau to provide you with advice on
challenging reported information. Who owns the „free credit‟ report sites? The credit bureaus own
them. For a fee, after you have fallen for a marketing pitch, you will learn how to actually understand
your credit.
Publications from banks, credit card companies, even the FTC traditionally say that it isn‟t
possible to change credit reporting through credit repair. They suggest you wait for seven years for
removal of bad credit. The major bureaus also provide useless „explain yourself‟ areas to limit credit
disputes. These offer you the „right‟ to add your side of the story in up to 100 words. The problem is,
credit is a numbers game and written excuses don‟t change the numbers. Explanations do nothing to
resolve problem accounts or lower the higher interest you pay because of negative account histories.
Types Of Credit Reports
Infiles
Although all credit reports start with the same basic data, they do not contain the same level of
information. When you apply for credit, your potential lender sees an infile, as professional bureau
reports are known. It contains much more information than a sanitized consumer report. This is
especially true for the negative information. One feature of an infile often omitted from the consumer
version is a national credit risk score known as a FICO score. It ranges from a low of 375 to a high of
850. Useful credit is anything above 720, although you can work with scores in the high 500‟s – at
higher interest rates.
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Another piece of information on an infile is the lettered or numbered additions that appear under the
score. These indicate exactly what factors have contributed to your credit score deficiency. Not
surprisingly, they are called factors. You might see letter codes like a, d, e, m, s, b, or number codes
like 34, 19, and 27. Some examples of factors are: too many accounts with open balance, too many
delinquent accounts, proportion of balance to credit limit too high. The FICO score and the factors are
perhaps the most informative infile components not found on most consumer versions.
Full Factual/Residential Mortgage Credit Reports
When applying for a mortgage, a report known as a full factual report is used to determine the
outcome of your application. It is a combination of at least two of the bureaus‟ infile reports. It may
also contain information about your lifestyle, such as:
Employment and income

Residence
Details of your credit application
This information is verified by someone working for the bureau or agency compiling the report.
Reading Consumer Disclosures and Infiles
Account status and payment history are the two more important aspects of any credit report
entry. Following is an overview of how to read this information from each of the three bureaus‟
reports:
Experian‟s Consumer Disclosure
Experian‟s consumer report emphasizes a few facts:
1. You are responsible for your account.

2. There is an amount of money you owe, and
3. Whether or not you have made late payments to your account, although it does not say
when. This makes it difficult to attempt the repair or removal of poor credit marks. If
you cannot pinpoint when you are accused of having been late, it is quite a challenge to
dispute it.
Consumer Disclosure Example
“Account is current and all payments being made on time. 60 days late was reported during the
account‟s history. Scheduled monthly payments: $75.00, last payment was reported to Experian:
10/2004. Account balance: $2,708.00 on 10/2004. Months previewed 76.”
Experian‟s Infile
Located in the right-hand column of an infile report is the following information:
Cur-Was 90
nnncccccccc12
nncc1nnncccc
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“Cur-Was90” states that a current account was ninety days late at some point in the last seven
years. Your payment history is the letter and number code (nnnccc…12), the first n on the middle row
stands for the status of the account 24 months ago and the last c standing for the most recently reported
month. Nothing was due on the account in months with an „n‟. The letter „c‟ means money was in fact
owed and paid on time. If your account was one month late, a „l‟ appears. If you go another month
with no payment, a „2‟ is used.
“Cur-Was 90” is an account status that reflects your payment history. Since the status covers
the past seven years, it is possible that all of the letter codes could be a „c‟, indicating payments were
made on time for the last 24 months, but at some time between two and seven years ago, you were 90
days late. Almost all consumers are confused by the combination of codes representing the last two
years‟ indicating on time payment, and the account status representing the last seven years that says
you were late.
Trans Union
Consumer disclosures and infiles are similar. Payment history on both reports appears like:
111112311111 1 = on time, 2 = 30 days late, 3 = 60 days late

1111X1111112
56 2 1 1 This means ‟56 months of history reported, „2‟ 30 day late marks,
„1‟ 60 and „1‟ 90 day late marks.
The past 24 months are reflected in the top two lines, containing numbers/letters. The first line
is two years ago starting with the number „1‟ (on time). The most recently reported month is reflected
by the final „2‟ indicating that you are 30 days late.
These numbers don‟t refer to the same months as Experian‟s code system. A payment made on
time, in this report, is indicated by the number 1; thirty days late is represented by a 2. The third line is
a notation of the account status indicating this particular account has been reported for 56 months and
there is one ninety-day late payment, one sixty-day late payment and two thirty-day late payments.
Since a ninety day late payment is represented by a „4‟ on the top two lines, and none are visible, you
may conclude that it happened more than two years ago.
Equifax Payment History And Account Status
Equifax has experimented with plain English reports of differing types over the years, with
predictably sanitized results. Their account payment history does a fairly good job of relaying the
information, with some confusing points noted.
>>>30(2) 60 (1) 90 (0) 8/04-R2<<<

This says the account has twice been thirty days late, once sixty days late and never ninety days
late. This final notation – 8/04-R2 explains that the date of the sixty day late payment was in August
2004.
Note: “R1” may represent both an on-time and thirty-day late account. As in other reports, it
may be hard to pinpoint the date of all late payments. For those unschooled in credit, this can make it
hard to challenge. Equifax might only provide a history for accounts with negative credit reporting.
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Point Of Confusion
When a credit report contains information from all three major bureaus, a muddle of their
reporting features can result. This „Trimerge‟, or 3 report combination, is made strictly for
professionals and is very complete. Usually, the date of any lateness and the changes in lateness over
the entire seven year period is easily discerned, making disputes easier.
The information here covers all three credit bureaus and their reporting styles, yet there are
many sub-forms of credit reporting. Depending on the end use, the information released by the three
major bureaus is distilled, edited, and embellished as need requires.
Common reporting errors still shine through though. Often, account information is not updated
or just plain inaccurate. Just as often, it belongs to someone else. The mixing of identities has been a
problem in credit reporting from its inception. When you examine your report, take the time to
compare your billing information with their information, and double check the amount owed. It has a
sneaky way of becoming more than you thought, or more than you agreed to. Often, payments are not
credited on reports, even if the lender has done so on a statement. For all the flaws in this system, it is
the system. Whatever manages to remain on your report after you get through with your repair work
represents you – or the electronic version of you. No matter how incorrect an item is, regardless of the
proof you have that it is wrong, it is the „truth‟ until changed on the report. Only you can make sure
what they report fits the facts.
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CREDIT BUREAU REPORT REQUEST LETTER
Credit Bureau‟s Name:

Address:
Your Name:
Your Address:
Dear (Credit Bureau‟s Name):
I am writing to request a copy of my credit report. Enclosed is a money order for $_______. Also
enclosed is a copy of my ________________________________ (driver‟s license, or social security
card, or a bill from the phone or electric company).
Best regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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V. NEGOTIATIONS – Q&A
Beginning Your Negotiations
Debt negotiation has high stakes. The financial well being of you and your family hangs in the
balance. More often than not your perseverance will count for much more than any clever turn of
phrase, or quick witted counter offer.
Q&A
I‟m calling to make an arrangement to start paying on my account. The account number is
________. What is my current balance?
If applicable you should ask: “What was my balance at the time of my default?” (If it‟s lower,
you may be able to revert to it.) Finally, ask: “What are the minimum payments you will accept?”
Your creditor will ask why you need a payment plan if you have never been in default,
especially if you‟ve been mostly on time to this point. If you are already delinquent, they may try for a
lump sum payment. It is their job to get the most money quickly. They may offer you a payment plan
that doesn‟t fit your budget. It is up to you to insist on a plan that can work, and will fit your income
and debt level. In the end, they really only have the choice of accepting what you can and will pay.
If I can‟t make the minimum payment, what do we do?
No matter what you hear at this point, stick to your guns and insist on getting a payment plan
that fits your needs. If the person you are talking to won‟t make a deal, ask for someone who can. At
the first level of customer service, personnel usually have no power to do anything other than enforce
the original agreement. Once you have someone who can make a deal, insist on a payment plan that
fits reality. Agreeing to anything else might cause you to look at bankruptcy as an option – say so.
Also say that you have other accounts that have agreed to cooperate and you need this creditor to be
part of the entire picture or your plan may fail and no one will get paid.
Will you freeze further interest, and deal with the original debt, not the one that it has grown into?
Often, a creditor will forgo interest payments and focus on getting the principal. This is
especially true with retail debts, where a large profit was already made on your purchase. Credit card
firms who have collected high interest payments and are fearful of mounting defaults will also
entertain freezing interest, either from the day you start negotiating or from the month of your default.
How will my credit be reported now that I‟m paying? Will you „un-rate‟ my account?
Unrated credit means that when you challenge the credit bureau to confirm the information
reported, the creditor either doesn‟t answer, in which case the item is removed, or they answer that
they don‟t have information on that account. Either way, they can‟t rate the account without proper
information. You need to lock down exactly how paying your creditor will affect your past and future
credit rating as part of any negotiated plan. Generally, if you pay 100 percent of your debt you can get
an agreement that the creditor will stop reporting on your account, allowing it to become unrated.
Though it is possible to get this „unrated‟ debt settlement for less than 100 percent, creditors are
understandably reluctant to let you have good credit for a discounted settlement.
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What about “re-aging” my account?
Re-aging an account simply means that your creditor, usually in exchange for a payment, will
dispose of old payment history on the account and report only newer, on-time payments.
Will the account be listed as a „settlement‟ on my credit report, or will you agree to un-rate my
account if I pay you as agreed?
You need to be specific in written agreements. Be clear that the word „settlement‟ is not
acceptable as a term of your paying off the debt. You must keep any deal you make with the creditor.
This is your second chance. If you default on a renegotiated settlement, all bets are off.
Why won‟t you help with credit reporting? Haven‟t you done this for other consumers?
They may tell you that changes in credit reporting, or agreeing not to report isn‟t possible.
Everything is negotiable. Most creditors have agreed to unrated settlements in the past. Say that you
know that unrated accounts are common; if the person you are talking with can‟t make one, ask them
to refer you to someone who can. The odds are against them showing you these cards in your first
negotiation. They often read from a prepared script and don‟t have the authority to make command
decisions. Also, it reflects poorly on them to fail in their collection effort.
Will this new agreement, when complete, be considered payment in full?
Be clear when making an agreement over the phone. The term payment in full or paid in full
must be agreed upon. Follow up and solidify your agreement in writing before you pay. Unscrupulous
collectors agree to anything you ask to get your money, with no intention of keeping their end of the
bargain. They credit your payment, take their commission, and nothing changes on your credit report.
Legal Alternatives
After you have exhausted negotiation alternatives, you may only be left with legal means to
convince your creditors to settle. We shouldn‟t sue if you don‟t have cause, but you can voice (in
writing) your feeling that laws may have been violated and action on your part may be taken.
Section 1692f of the Fair Debt Collection Practice Act is titled Unfair Practices. You can skim
this section to see if you have been subject to violation under this law. Section 1692k is entitled Civil
Liability. Quoting the Title, Section, and Sub-section of these two laws, even in an amateurish letter,
will make an aggressive collection agency wonder if you have evidence of their unfair practices, and
could possibly collect a big monetary award under their civil liability exposure. Since these laws were
drafted to protect individuals from the unfair balance of power between creditor and debtor, you‟ll find
that much of what is written could apply to one of your credit problems.
Why Do I Have To Use Letters If I Reach An Agreement On The Phone?
Just because you reach an understanding with someone from your creditor‟s company doesn‟t
mean that will translate to your credit report. Sometimes, commissioned collection personnel will
outright lie to you, agreeing to whatever will get you to write the check. By the time you seek to
enforce the agreement, you find that they did not have the power to make it, or worse, they aren‟t still
with the company. With a certified letter, you have proof of the date your terms were received, and
create a legal trail should future disagreement result.
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Is The Agreement „Legal‟ If I Don‟t Have Something Signed By The Other Side?
You can create what is known as a „restrictively endorsed‟ payment. Your letter dictates the
terms agreed to in the phone call, and adds that cashing of the enclosed check or money order means
that those terms have been agreed to. Send this letter twenty days in advance your payment and make
sure to send it to an actual named individual at that organization. Merely sending a blind letter will not
enforce your rights because automated systems often open and deal with consumer correspondence.
You will need to do the work of finding someone who will make an agreement and document that
agreement with a letter prior to sending your money.
What Are Some Of The Terms I Should Negotiate For?
Most important is that the payment or sum of the payments made over the term of your new
agreement will constitute Payment in Full. This is distinguished from a Settlement which is still a
derogatory credit entry. Next is an agreement that the creditor will no longer answer questions about
the account from credit bureaus. This will allow you to tell the bureau that your creditor is not
confirming the negative information. Information remaining unconfirmed for more than thirty days
must be removed – and that is successfully negotiated, permanent, legal, credit repair.
What Terms Are Most Likely To Be Accepted?
A single lump sum is the most likely way to get a discounted settlement that is called „paid in
full‟. Remember, especially when you hear the phrase “it‟s not possible”, that everything is negotiable.
You can test their resolve by saying, “OK then, no deal. Call me when you are serious.” You‟ll be
surprised how many phone calls you get within a few hours or days capitulating to your terms.
How Do I Prove That They Received My Information?
Send your letter through Certified/Return Receipt Requested Mail so you have proof of who
received it and when. The return receipt must be signed and dated in order to complete delivery. The
receipt comes back through the mail, generally within a week.
Does It Matter If I Write Well, With Perfect Grammar And Spelling?
As long as you get your point across, and do it as described so it is legally enforceable, you will
appear to be a potentially difficult customer who is best dealt with and accommodated. It also doesn‟t
matter whether you type or handwrite if it‟s readable.
What Information Should Be On My Correspondence?
Your name, address, phone number, account number, the amount they are asking for, the
amount you‟re willing to pay, and the terms on which payment will be rendered (a lump sum, 12
monthly payments, for example).
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Points To Remember
You should always push for a paid in full. Your final goal in negotiating settlement can also be
„paid as agreed‟ or „account closed – paid as agreed‟. Anything other than these listings will have a
negative effect on your credit report. Creditors make their profits by collecting from their customers,
not by reporting negative credit information. Creditors realize this, and often will agree to allow the
deletion of negative items upon settlement of the debt. Creditors won‟t try to ruin your credit rating as
a personal vendetta. It‟s strictly business. If it pays to collect from you and restore your rating to
perfect, they will do this. Talk to them about money, not principles or morals. An example is, “I know
you would love to receive the $3000 I owe you, but it will not help my credit report if you can‟t change
my rating to „paid as agreed‟. I‟m better off paying it to other creditors who will agree in writing to
change my credit rating.”
Summary
The preceding questions are geared toward pushing your creditors to an agreement in exchange
for money. If you have already made a settlement, the only leverage you have is your offer to pay in
full. If you‟ve already paid, you can use legal pressure based on the past wrongful actions of the
creditor or collection agent. If they think they might lose money or have to spend more money, they
will be more eager to settle. Lending institutions lose money all the time and write off their losses.
Doing so is a last resort for everyone – it affects profitability and can ruin your credit. By modeling
your negotiation on the questions above, you can make a settlement that fits your budget and gets your
creditor paid, leaving you with intact credit in the bargain. If you don‟t get what you want with your
first negotiation, stick to your guns. Remember, if you already have a number of late credit marks on
your account, there is little more a creditor can do to ruin your credit. By holding out for your
position, no matter how long it takes, you will likely get the settlement you desire.
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DEBT SETTLEMENT AGREEMENT
Date:
Your Name:
Your Account Number:
Your Address:
On the (date) __________________, I had a conversation with ___________________________

(name of customer service employee) in which it was agreed that I will pay ___________________
(fill in amount).
If in installments: I will make payments of ______________ (fill in amount) for ___________

(number of months), until the full amount of _____________ (fill in total debt) is paid.
As part of this agreement, ______________________(name of company) will consider my debt

____________________ (EITHER paid in full or settled) and will not answer any credit bureau
inquiries regarding the above listed account.
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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CREDIT BUREAU UPDATE LETTER

Address:
Your Name:
Your Address:
I am writing to request that you update my account #____________________________. This creditor

no longer reports the derogatory credit that you have on record. Please contact it and update my
history accordingly.
Best regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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UNRATED ACCOUNT AGREEMENT
Creditor‟s Name:
Address:
Your Name:
Your Address:
Re: Account #:
Dear (Creditor‟s Name):
As we agreed on the phone, enclosed is my payment for our settlement. As per the terms of our
agreement: (choose between these options you may have negotiated)
1. You will freeze my interest payments and let me pay down 100 percent of the balance due, that is,
$____________, in monthly installments of no less than $ _____________.
OR
2. You will let me pay 100 percent of the balance due, currently at $ _______________, in monthly
installments of no less than $ _______________.
OR
3. You will let me pay 100 percent of the balance due, currently at $ ___________________, in a
lump sum.
Upon completion of the above payments, you will report nothing on credit, thus unrating my account.
Best regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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INQUIRY DISPUTE LETTER

Address:
Your Name:
Your Address:
I am writing to dispute the following inquiries on my credit report. Unless these inquiries were
generated from marketing program or your list sales, they are the result of unauthorized file review. I
gave none of these companies reason to believe that I would do business with them and, in fact,
specifically told them not to look at my credit.
Best regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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VI. COLLECTIONS / CEASE COLLECTIONS
Collection Issues
If an account has been transferred to a collection agency outside of the original creditor‟s
organization, then you will have two negative report entries for that one debt. By using the Cease
Collections Letter you can shut down the collectors and cause the debt to be transferred back to the
original creditor. However, sometimes that debt has been outright sold, and no return will ever
happen. Where it is possible, insisting that you have issues directly concerning the original creditor
(such as failure to bill correctly, at the right address, in the right amount, product failure) may spur the
process on. You can then negotiate with the original creditor to agree on a payment, deletion of the
collection account, and an updating of their records to paid account or the like.
Collection agencies will always agree more readily to delete the negative listing than banks or
credit cards. Why? They can change their rating, but you are still stuck with the original creditor
reporting you late. Who cares if you have a „paid as agreed‟ collection account: no matter what the
rating, every collection is a negative mark. You need to get the collection agency to agree to remove
their listing entirely from your report and have the original creditor change the rating to „paid as
agreed‟. At the very minimum, you are within your legal rights to demand the removal of the
collection account from your report. Some collection agencies will tell you they have no power over
what the original creditor will do regarding your credit. To some extent, this is true. However, both
the collection agency and the creditor want their money. If collected, the agency gets paid, and so does
the creditor; therefore, it is to their advantage to cooperate. Explain that if they can get a written
agreement from the creditor, you will pay them their money, or else you will find a better way to spend
your cash.
Collections often come from odd places. Doctor‟s bills that were supposed to be handled by
insurance, parking tickets you never knew about, and the like can be very difficult to resolve. This is
especially true when you deal with state or city government bureaucracies. Student loans are another
dead end. These loans have enforced payment, and can be stripped from your tax refund. They have
very little need to negotiate anything, never mind help your credit. Focus your efforts where headway
is likely.
Points To Remember
In most credit organizations, there are many, many people with the authority to make
settlements, accept pay agreements, and make changes on a credit report. Larger creditors, such as
credit card companies or banks will require more pressure before they agree to delete a negative listing,
but virtually every creditor will acquiesce with the right amount of pressure, persistence, and
persuasion.
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Ceasing Payments / Collection
If you‟ve decided not to pay certain creditors, or to hold off on those who either won‟t settle at
this time or want what you can‟t give, you can temporarily stop them from attempting to collect the
debt while you deal with your first priorities. This is done by sending a cease collection letter. The
legal, debt collection, or recovery departments are the areas of a lending organization most capable of
making a deal with you.
If you have never paid late and have perfect credit (though unlikely if you are reading this), you
should know that stalling your creditors with cease collections letters will add a number of derogatory
marks to your credit report and may cause the lender to seek judgment against you. Carefully consider
whether or not it is in your best interest to stop payment on or attempt to settle previously unblemished
accounts.
The goal of the debt reorganization process is to fulfill an agreement in which you demand
from your creditors that they report your account as unrated or paid in full in exchange for them getting
their money back. If, after attempting to negotiate with creditors, you don‟t think you can restructure
your debt, bankruptcy may be the only choice.
Judgment-Proofing Yourself
If you stop paying certain bills, you will eventually see legal papers demanding payment. You
must deal with all legal correspondence, maybe hire a lawyer, and possibly even go to court to hold off
default judgments. Withholding money as leverage to force a settlement can expose you to a judgment
more often with mortgages and auto loans, though credit cards have also been known to sue if the debt
is large. It is possible for the lender to gain a judgment against you within thirty days after you are
mailed legal papers notifying you of your default and their intent to seek court relief. Your credit
agreement and the law stipulate that they may seek a judgment after notifying you by mail, and giving
you reasonable time to cure the default. If a lender does not send you a summons and complaint
stating his intention to seek court relief, you aren‟t necessarily safe. More than a few creditors have
snuck a case into court without proper service, believing (often correctly) that you won‟t have the
wherewithal to fight them after the judgment is ordered.
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CEASE COLLECTION LETTER
Debt Collector‟s Name:

Address:
Your Name:
Your Address:
Debt Collector’s Account #:

Creditor’s Account # (if different):
Dear (Debt Collector‟s Name):
I am writing to ask that you cease collection on the above account. I will no longer honor your
attempts at collecting these debts. I understand that you may not contact me except to inform me of
any legal action you can or will take in regard to this debt.
Best regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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VII. FORM LETTERS FOR ESCALATING YOUR ATTACK
Points To Remember
Whenever a letter includes a reference to a summons and complaint, you can omit that first
sentence referring to the complaint, and send the letter alone. Include the reference and a copy of the
Notice of Complaint in the next letter, and the actual Summons and Complaint in the third letter.
Depending on the creditor that you deal with, you may not need to escalate your battle through
this formal process of a letter, followed by a Notice of Complaint, followed by a Summons and
Complaint – they may agree early in the game.
A Notice of Complaint is simply a Summons and Complaint that has not been filed. It is a
gentlemanly legal warning shot often taken to show that you are serious, but also open to settlement.
None of these letters is written in stone. Make the changes that fit your case whenever possible or
necessary.
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TO CREDITOR, TO BE SENT WITH NOTICE /
SUMMONS AND COMPLAINT
Creditor‟s Name:
Address:
Phone Number:
Your Name:
Your Address:
Dear Customer Service:
Enclosed is a (EITHER notice or summons) and complaint concerning a case against your company
for violation of the Fair Credit Reporting Act. I believe you have failed adequately to investigate the
information on my report, specifically account # _________________.
Please un-rate this account or I will be forced to take all necessary actions to clear my name, including
pursuing any and all legal recourse necessary to accomplish this.
Regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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TO DEBT COLLECTION AGENCY, TO BE SENT WITH
Debt Collector‟s Name:

Address:
Phone Number:
Your Name:
Your Address:
Re: Collection Account # ____________________ , Creditor‟s Name
Dear (Collector or Agency‟s Name):
for violation of the Fair Credit Reporting Act. I believe you have failed to cease collecting on my
account even though I have requested this and now repeat my request. Additionally, your collection
efforts are abusive. I will deal only with the original creditor on this issue.
Please un-rate this account or I will be forced to take all necessary actions to clear my name, including
pursuing any and all legal recourse necessary to accomplish this.
Regards, _______________________________ Signed, Dated
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TO CREDITOR – BILLING ERRORS
TO BE SENT WITH SUMMONS AND COMPLAINT
Creditor‟s Name:
Address:
Phone Number:
Your Name:
Your Address:
Re: Account # __________________________
for violation of the Fair Credit Billing Act. I believe you have failed properly to bill me at my correct
address, and for the correct amounts I owe. Since this is a revolving credit account, your reporting me
as having paid late is in error.
Please delete the past late marks or un-rate this account, or I will be forced to take all necessary actions
to clear my name, including pursuing any and all legal recourse necessary to accomplish this.
Regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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TO CREDITOR – CASH FOR CLEAR CREDIT AGREEMENT,
FAILURE TO CHANGE ADDRESS, TO BE SENT WITH
Creditor‟s Name:
Address:
Phone Number:
Your Name:
Your Address:
Re: Account # __________________________
for violation of the Fair Credit Reporting and Fair Credit Billing Acts. I believe you have failed
properly to bill me at my correct address, and for the correct amounts I owe. Since this is a revolving
credit account, your reporting me as having paid late is in error.
I have also enclosed a restrictively endorsed check for the amount now owed. If you cash this check,
you agree that my account has a zero balance, that it is closed, and that you will un-rate it with all three
major credit bureaus. Additionally, you will send me notice of your agreement to these terms.
Regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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TO CREDITOR – CASH FOR CLEAR CREDIT AGREEMENT,
TO BE SENT WITH SUMMONS AND COMPLAINT
Creditor‟s Name Collection / Agency‟s Name:

Address:
Phone Number:
Your Name:
Your Address:
Re: Account # __________________________

And/or Collection Account # ________________________
for violation of the Fair Credit Reporting and Fair Credit Billing Acts. I am willing to settle this
matter, but only on the condition that you un-rate my account with all three credit bureaus.
Upon receipt of your letter stating agreement to do so, I will send a restrictively endorsed check for the
amount now owed. If you cash this check, you agree that my account has a zero balance, that it is
closed, and that you will un-rate it with all three major credit bureaus. Additionally, you will send me
notice of your compliance with these terms.
Regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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VIII. CREDIT BUREAU DISPUTE
Credit Bureau Dispute Letter
The following letter is used to dispute items directly with the credit bureaus when negotiation
with your creditors won‟t work. This is especially true when the creditor is the government or the IRS,
or if you‟re disputing public records.
Avoid the look of being coached. Customize this letter by altering the wording and layout.
Even add a sentence or two explaining facts or details particular to your case. Remember, this letter is
not based on a formula. It is a factual statement of your position and intentions regarding the creditor
and an act of letting them know you believe they have made an error and that you are capable or
pursuing it legally.
Use the creditor forms to record when you send this letter and the follow-up in thirty days. On
subsequent letters include the phrase „second notice‟.
Remember to send this, and all creditor correspondence, by certified/return receipt mail. This
will provide you with proof they have been notified, and show them you are organized and serious.
Note: After each account name and number you are disputing, you must include a specific reason
why you think that credit entry is wrong. The reasons listed below are the more common ones, though
you may list others. Do not, however, use an excuse such as, “I was late because I hurt my foot.” The
reasons that can cause a credit bureau to remove the bad credit must be rooted in the law, specifically,
the Fair Credit Reporting Act.
Reasons why an account can be wrong:
They didn‟t bill you correctly.

They didn‟t send you a bill.
This item is older than seven years (ten years for bankruptcies).
This is not your account.
You are not responsible for this account.
You paid this account on time.
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CREDIT BUREAU DISPUTE LETTER

Address:
Your name, address, and social security number, and a copy of any of the following ID – driver‟s
license, social security card, a phone or utility bill with the same name and address as your return
address:
The following items are incorrectly reported on my credit account. These accounts are (not late, not
mine, not billed correctly, etc.) [Add reason why the account is wrong] as reported. Please correct or
delete. You are obligated to look at the underlying circumstances of this account and not merely re-
report what you are told.
Account Names: Account Numbers:

1.
2.
Etc.
Best regards,
_______________________________ Signed, Dated
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IX. THE CREDIT SCORE RX KIT
How To Increase Your FICO Rating
To begin understanding your FICO Score, we have presented a number of questions and
answers so you can get a background, or simply have basic questions answered so you can get on to
the next area of your business.
What Is A FICO Score?
It is a number on your credit report that is used to rank your payment habits and overall
credibility. It ranges from 375 to 850. The U.S. mid-range is between 600 – 700, and a good score
usually starts at 720.
Who Makes The Score?
A company called Fair, Isaac generates the raw data from which each of the three major credit
bureaus derives its own calculation. Experian, Equifax, and Trans Union all have your score on their
credit report. Each of these credit bureaus usually comes up with a slightly different score calculation
for a given individual, so that you will actually have three relatively similar scores. Fair, Isaac
Corporation, whose initials generate the term FICO, creates their score by first looking at a control
group of 2 million consumers. They transcribe a two year period of individual payment histories, as
well as income, savings, debt, household size, marriage status and prior payment history. From this
they get a model of how a similar group will behave. This information is used to set interest rates for
individuals across the spectrum of credit behavior. It is just like an actuary in an insurance company
gauging the likelihood that you will fall ill or die and setting policy prices accordingly. In the business
of credit, though, a score summarizes the likelihood of your timely payment. The FICO scoring model
is an excellent predictor of who is or is not a good credit risk, and how much so. Some might ask
whether mistakes on the report skew the value of the score, but even here the question of accuracy is
not completely well challenged. Those who care enough about their credit to keep abreast of its
accuracy and move to maintain such, have higher scores, deserve them, and are a better credit risk.
Muddling the accuracy question is the fact that the three credit bureaus each take the Fair, Isaac
scoring information and adapts it to create their own individual score with its own name. Equifax has
its Beacon score, Trans Union has Empirica, and Experian simply calls it a Fair Isaac score. Rarely
do these bureaus agree numerically on the score they assign an individual. As often as not, they aren‟t
within 20 points of each other. The method by which this discrepancy is overcome is to choose the
middle of the three scores or the lower of two scores if an individual isn‟t reported on by three bureaus
– not a completely uncommon occurrence. In fact, the rules for getting a federally insured loan insist
on using the scores this way.
Your Score, In Depth
To begin the process of understanding your credit, it is important to understand the credit
system. In the end, whether through good credit habits from the start, better payment habits over the
last two years, credit repair efforts, or some combination of these, achieving a good credit score from
the three major credit bureaus will most influence your ability to get credit – at the right price. A good
score alone does not guarantee you will not fall prey to the credit vultures. These are the companies
who thrive on overcharging the naïve and uneducated.
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What Is A Good Credit Score?
It does depend on what type of credit you want, but generally speaking, a good score for a
mortgage applicant starts at 620 instead of 720. This is the lowest score for what is known as a
conforming mortgage. That means it conforms to the federal mortgage credit rules.
Which Of The Three Scores Counts?
Mortgage companies, car dealers, and banks usually take the middle of the three scores. If only
two credit bureaus report on your credit, as is sometimes the case, then the lower of the two scores is
the one that counts.
How Do I Get My Score?
You can get it from a credit report, but not all versions of credit reports have it. A professional
lending organization will get complete reports from a credit bureau. This professional type report is
called an Infile. Three infiles together, one from each bureau, is a Trimerge Report, also known as a
Residential Mortgage Report. If a person makes phone calls to verify information you have supplied,
it is called a Full Factual Report. You can get a report by purchasing it from the credit bureau.
What Can I Do To Improve My Score?
You can improve your score if there are errors on your report and you have them corrected
through a letter writing campaign to the credit bureaus. Another option is to use some automated
private credit bureau services. Example: One person‟s score was raised by 32 points when they moved
their credit balance from a card with a low limit to a higher limit account. This told the computer that
they were using a smaller percent of their available credit, and the score went up. Another person had
too few credit accounts. By simply getting two credit cards, their score went up 56 points.
What Else Can Help Me Improve My Score?
In addition to these credit changes that are „within the system‟, you can use the leverage of
money you still owe to negotiate a change in how your credit is reported.
Getting Your Score
To see your score, you will need to get a professional mortgage company style „Trimerge‟
report. While you can get your credit report from each of the three bureaus, most consumer versions
purposely omit the score. Worse, some organizations who sell credit reports have created alternative
score systems that have nothing to do with the FICO score, and results that have no bearing on most
credit grantors‟ decision process.
It is the general policy of most credit organizations not to give consumers a copy of any credit
report in an effort to protect themselves from mistakenly giving private credit information to the wrong
person. The contents of a credit report are more than enough to allow someone to steal your identity.
Since credit bureaus make their service subscribers liable for damage caused by misuse of purchased
reports, you can see why distribution is restricted. What can you do? There are legitimate places to
purchase a Trimerge report. The three individual credit bureaus have recently taken to selling
packages that include each others‟ reports, though they take some pains to keep this sideline discreet
from their normal efforts, often creating a third party business to do so.
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Your Scores In Hand
Once you have your scores, it is important to understand the criteria that most affect them.
Each of the credit bureaus‟ computers generates a list of the four reasons that most likely hinder you
from receiving a higher score. These are called „factors‟ and generally appear right below the actual
score number, very close to the top of the first page of the credit report. Examples of these factors are:
Too many open lines of credit

Derogatory public record
Proportion of outstanding balance to high credit limit
Number of delinquencies
Too many accounts with balances
Just because a factor such as „too many open lines of credit‟ appears on your report doesn‟t
necessarily mean that you actually have that problem. To some extent that issue may affect your
credit, but it appears likely that the „four most likely reasons‟ are included whether or not all of them,
or any of them, are important to your situation. They are on the report because the bureaus have an
obligation to give you some direction in bettering your scores. Most often, correcting a factor will
only raise your score a few points. Some factors are more important than others. Removing
delinquencies, either by paying them or proving them false, will do a lot to improve your credit report.
Removing a charge-off, meaning you were written off as an uncollectible bad debt, will greatly
increase your score. Each individual report has unique scoring circumstances. Someone with twenty
trade lines (credit accounts) will not necessarily see as much of a gain from clearing off one single
error as a person with only four trade lines. Similarly, those with a great amount of debt might not get
as much of a boost from paying off one account as their thrifty neighbor.
Still, there are basic guidelines on how to optimize your score. Remember that optimizing your
score is not the same as actually fixing it through credit repair. Repair is actually forcing items to be
removed or changed through techniques such as negotiation and letter writing. These maneuvers
involve attempting to persuade or induce a third party or organization to make changes. Optimizing
your credit involves techniques which are fully within your power to control. These include:
Shift Your Account Balances So That No Single Account Is Charged Near Its Limit
If you owe $300 on an account with a $350 limit, move that debt to an account with a higher
limit, making the total ratio of debt to available credit lower. Put the $300 on your card with a $6000
limit, and you will still have the same total debt, but you will be using a smaller percentage of any
available credit line. Also, concentrating your debts to fewer credit cards will help you avoid having
too many accounts with open balances, this being a negative factor that shows up on credit reports.
Changing The Number Of Accounts You Have Open
If you have too few accounts, opening some will help. Those who have very little credit
history need to show enough for an informed judgment to be made on their payment
habits. Having at least 3 credit card accounts is generally considered optimum. If you
only have one, open up two new ones. A secured card, which is an account backed by a
savings deposit as collateral, is an easy way to guarantee speedy addition of new trade
lines.
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If you already have three, but two of them have bad credit history, you can close the bad
ones and open up two clean ones; these need not necessarily have very high credit limits
as the point is only to have enough trade lines (credit accounts) from which your
activities can be accurately judged.
If you have many accounts open, say 10 or 15, your credit can often be improved by
closing some of them. The criterion you should consider is how much total credit is
available to you. The question of disposable income comes into play here. If, after
paying your bills, you have $400 left over each month („disposable income‟), and have
accounts where you could potentially charge $30,000, your ability to pay what you
might charge could be a problem. Lower your available credit by closing a few higher
credit limit accounts
How High Of A Score Should I Aim For?
Your FICO score goal should be as high as possible. Scores derived from the FICO data range
from 375 to 850. For the most part, a score above 620 will allow those with two years of steady
income history to get an „A paper‟ mortgage (qualifying you for the preferred rates). This is generally
considered the acid test of your credit purchasing ability. The benefits of higher scores come into
effect when you consider some of the add-on features of a loan. For example, many banks have
programs where an applicant with a 720+ middle score isn‟t required to produce evidence of their
income to get a loan at the best rate. This allows them the privilege of borrowing a larger amount at
the preferred rate than their income would usually allow under guidelines associated with a lower
score. The logic is that since they have shown themselves to be capable of paying their bills, as
demonstrated by their score, they have the right to decide what they can or cannot handle financially.
The score you need depends on what you want to do. If you are buying a house, a higher score
will afford you more flexibility, both in loan amount and terms. All other things being equal, a 740
score entitles you to more loan options than a 640. Such loan features as interest only payments, or
payments below interest level are offered to those with the highest scores. Someone with a 640 score
might still be able to get these same loan terms, but it would cost them more through higher interest
rates. Professional lenders have a spreadsheet-style grid for interest rates, with the lower rates and
better terms running in direct correlation to the FICO score.
A bad score doesn‟t necessarily mean that you can‟t get credit, just that your credit will be
limited in one way or another. You may be able to get a mortgage, for instance, but you can only
borrow up to 80% of your home‟s value under terms where someone with good credit (say, above 620)
can borrow 90% or more. Your rate will be higher, too. Typically, lower credit scores can add as
much as 1% to a mortgage interest rate. On a $250,000 home, this can mean over $200 each month
and $65,000 during the life of a 30 year loan.
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Credit Type
The type of credit you have is critical to the scoring process. The easiest type to get is called
revolving credit. Revolving refers to credit cards and store cards. It „revolves‟ because you pay and
owe and pay and owe at different levels during any given month. Be careful of too much revolving
credit, and too many accounts. It lowers your score to have a balance due in too many places.
Whenever possible, consolidate your debts to one or two cards with the lowest interest rate. By having
a minimal number of accounts, with perfect payment records, you will go a long way toward achieving
a high FICO score.
The next type of credit is installment credit. This is typically a car loan or any financed loan
where the monthly payment always has the same amount and due date. You ability to make this
regular obligation reflects greatly on your creditability. Although being late just once may seem like a
trivial thing, nothing could be further from the truth. An account always paid on time is unblemished,
whereas just one 30 day late mark turns it into a derogatory account. The frustration of feeling that
your creditors are wrong because they mess up your credit for that one late ignores reality. This is a
business of computers talking to computers. Nobody wants to ruin you for one late, but three accounts
with just one 30 day late on each gives you three derogatory accounts. It helps if the lates aren‟t in the
last two years since time improves your score, but it is important to respect how sensitive the system is.
You‟re better off with all three lates on only one of the accounts than one on each of the three.
The top level of credit is your mortgage. If you pay this on time, getting another mortgage, and
creating wealth through real estate purchases is much easier. If you are late, you can still get a
mortgage or refinance, but you will pay more and more interest as each late is added to this particular
account. The difference in rates between a person who has one 30 day late on their mortgage and three
30 day lates, or a 60 day late is as much as two percent. This can mean $150,000 more over the life of
a $250,000 loan.
Finally, there is a separate type of rating on credit users made mostly by credit card companies.
It deals with how profitable you will be. Many credit card users pay their balance off every month
incurring no interest charges in the process. Often, these cards have no annual fee as a teaser to attract
customers. That means the card company doesn‟t make any profit. Consequently, the card company
gives the no interest, no fee user a negative rating and will often veer away from granting credit to this
customer. There are plenty of credit cards available, though. Besides, you shouldn‟t let the profit
motives of other people guide your decision making in choosing credit.
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X. IDENTITY THEFT
What Are The Odds That I Will Be A Victim Of Identity Theft?
One out of five Americans will be victimized by this theft this year. That‟s over 38 million
individuals!
Beware: ID Theft
Identity theft occurs when someone uses your name, Social Security number, date of birth, or
other identifying information to commit fraud. For example, someone may have committed ID theft
by using your personal information to open a credit card account or get a loan in your name. For more
information, visit www.consumer.gov/idtheft or write to: FTC, Consumer Response Center, Room
130-B, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580.
Has Someone Stolen My Identity?
A quick look at your credit report will tell you if there are accounts under your name that you
didn‟t open. If you feel you‟re the victim of ID theft and have some proof, you may request a free
credit report. An account you don‟t recognize may be for a person who shares your name, but it‟s
important to clear up ownership of any unrecognized account.
How Do I Fight Identity Theft?
The Federal Government suggests the following steps when confronted by identity theft:
1. Contact the fraud departments of any of the major credit bureaus to place a fraud alert on your
credit file. The alert requests creditors to contact you before opening any accounts or making
changes to your existing accounts. As soon as the credit bureau confirms your alert, the other
two credit bureaus will be automatically notified to place fraud alerts. Once the fraud alert is in
place, you may request a free copy of your credit report from all three major credit bureaus.
2. Close the accounts that you know or believe have been tampered with or opened fraudulently.
Use an ID Theft Affidavit when you are disputing new unauthorized accounts.
3. File a police report. Get a copy of the report to submit to your creditors and others that may
require proof of the crime.
4. File your complaint with the FTC. The FTC maintains a database of ID theft cases that is used
by law enforcement agencies for investigations. Filing a complaint also helps them learn more
about ID theft and the problems of victims, so that more people can be helped in the future.
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1. Fraud Alert
You have the right to ask that nationwide consumer reporting agencies place „fraud alerts‟ in
your file to let potential creditors and others know that you may be a victim of identity theft. A fraud
alert can make it more difficult for someone to get credit in your name because it tells creditors to
follow certain procedures to protect you. You may place a fraud alert in your file by calling just one of
the three nationwide consumer reporting agencies. As soon as that agency processes your fraud alert,
it will notify the other two, which then also much place fraud alerts in your file.
Equifax: 1-800-525-6285 www.equifax.com

Experian: 1-888-397-3742 www.experian.com
Trans Union: 1-800-680-7289 www.transunion.com
An initial fraud alert stays in your file for at least ninety days. An extended alert stays in your
file for seven years. To place either of these alerts, a consumer reporting agency will require you to
provide appropriate proof of your identity, which may include your Social Security Number. If you
ask for an extended alert, you will have to provide an Identity Theft Report. An identity theft report
includes a copy of a report you have filed with a federal, state, or local law enforcement agency, and
additional information a consumer reporting agency may require you to submit.
2. Free Credit Report
You have the right to free copies of the information in your file („file disclosure‟). An initial
fraud alert entitles you to a copy of all the information in your file at each of the three nationwide
agencies, and an extended alert entitles you to two free file disclosures in a 12-month period following
the placing of the alert. These additional disclosures may help you detect signs of fraud, for example,
whether fraudulent accounts have been opened in your name or whether someone has reported a
change in your address. Once a year, you also have the right to a free copy of the information in your
file at any consumer reporting agency, if you believe it has inaccurate information due to fraud, such as
identity theft. You also have the ability to obtain additional free file disclosures under other provisions
of the FRCA. See www.ftc.gov/credit.
4. Debt Collectors Must Tell You The Facts
You have the right to obtain information from a debt collector. If you ask, a debt collector
must provide you with information about the debts you believe were incurred in your name by an
identity thief – like the name of the creditor and the amount of the debt.
5. You Can Block Credit File Information
If you believe information in your file results from identity theft, you have the right to ask that
a consumer reporting agency block that information from your file. An identity thief may run up bills
in your name and not pay them. Information about the unpaid bills may appear on your consumer
report. Should you decide to ask a consumer reporting agency to block the reporting of this
information, you must identity the information to be blocked, and provide the consumer reporting
agency with proof of your identity and a copy of your identity theft report. The consumer reporting
agency can refuse or cancel your request for a block if, for example, you don‟t provide the necessary
documentation, or where the block results from an error or a material misrepresentation of fact made
by you. If the agency declines or rescinds the block, it must notify you. Once a debt resulting from
identity theft has been blocked, a person or business with notice of the block may not sell, transfer, or
place the debt for collection.
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6. You Can Stop Reporting of the Fraudulent Debt in Your Name
You may also prevent businesses from reporting information about you to consumer reporting
agencies if you believe the information is a result of identity theft. To do so, you must send your
request to the address specified by the business that reports the information to the consumer reporting
agency. The business will expect you to identify what information you do no want reported and to
provide an identity theft report.
To learn more about identity theft an how to deal with its consequences, visit
www.consumer.gov/idtheft or write to the FTC. You may have additional rights under state law. For
more information, contact your local consumer protection agency or your state attorney general. In
addition to the new rights and procedures to help consumers deal with the effects of identity theft, the
FCRA has many other important consumer protections.
How To Reverse The ID Theft
To successfully challenge the theft of your good name and credit should be easy, but it isn‟t.
You need to go through a series of steps, including filling out an ID Theft Affidavit. This will make
certain that you are, in the end, free of the debts and problems caused by the theft. Included is a
complete form and format for fulfilling this task.
Instructions For Completing The ID Theft Affidavit
To make certain that you do not become responsible for any debts incurred by an identity thief,
you must prove to each of the companies where accounts were opened or used in your name that you
didn‟t create the debt. A group of credit grantors, consumer advocates, and attorneys at the Federal
Trade Commission (FTC) developed an ID Theft Affidavit to make it easier for fraud victims to report
information. While many companies accept this affidavit, others require that you submit more and
different forms. Before you send the affidavit, contact each company to find out if they accept it. The
affidavit has two parts:
Part One, the ID Theft Affidavit, is where you report information about yourself and the theft.
Part Two – the Fraudulent Account Statement – is where you describe the fraudulent account(s)
opened in your name. Use a separate statement for each company you need to write to. When you
send the affidavit to the companies, attach copies (NOT originals) of any supporting documents (for
example, driver‟s license or police report). Before submitting your affidavit, review the disputed
account(s) with family members or friends who may have information about the account(s) or access
to them. Only information on accounts opened at the institution to which you are sending the packet.
Complete this affidavit as soon as possible. Many creditors ask that you send it within two
weeks. Be as accurate and complete as possible. You may choose not to provide some of the
information requested. However, incorrect or incomplete information will slow the process of
investigating your claim. Print clearly. When you have finished completing the affidavit, mail a copy
to each creditor, bank, or company that provided the thief with the unauthorized credit, goods, or
services you describe. The companies will review your claim and send you a written response telling
you the outcome of their investigation. Keep a copy of everything you submit.
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If you are unable to complete the affidavit, someone with power of attorney may complete it
for you. The information you provide will be used only by the company to process your affidavit,
investigate the events you report, and help stop further fraud. If this affidavit is requested in a lawsuit,
the company might have to provide it to the requesting party.
Completing this affidavit does not guarantee that the identity thief will be prosecuted or that the
debt will be cleared.
DO NOT SEND AFFIDAVITS TO THE FTC OR ANY OTHER GOVERNMENT AGENCY.
Remember:
1. If you haven‟t already done so, report the fraud passwords. Avoid using easily available
information like your mother‟s maiden name, your birth date, digits of your Social Security Number or
your phone number, or a series of consecutive numbers.
2. Any one of the nationwide consumer reporting companies can place a fraud alert on your credit
report. Fraud alerts can help prevent an identity thief from opening any accounts in your name.
3. Contact your local police or the police in the community where the identity theft took place to file a
report. The company you called is required to contact the other two, which will place an alert on their
versions of your report, too. Get a copy of the police report or, at the very least, the incident report. It
can help you deal with creditors who need proof of the crime. If the police are reluctant to take your
report, ask to file a “Miscellaneous Incidents” report, or try another jurisdiction, like your state police.
4. You can also check with your state Attorney General‟s office to find out if state law requires the
police to take reports for identity theft. Check the Blue Pages of your telephone directory for the
phone number or check www.naag.org for a list of state Attorneys General. In addition to placing the
fraud alert, the three consumer reporting agencies will send you free copies of your credit reports.
5. The Federal Trade Commission. By sharing (they will display only the last four digits of your
Social Security Number) you will provide important information that can help law enforcement
officials across the nation track down identity thieves.
You can file a complaint online at www.consumer,gov/idtheft, or write to:
Identity Theft Clearinghouse

Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20580
Identity Theft Hotline

1-877-ID THEFT
Send your correspondence and enclosures certified mail, return receipt requested.
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ID Theft Affidavit
(1) My full legal name is: _________________________________________________

(First) (Middle) (Last) (Jr., Sr., III)
(2) (If different from above) When the events described in this affidavit took place, I was known as
_______________________________________________________________
(First) (Middle) (Last) (Jr., Sr., III)
(3) My date of birth is ________________________ (day/month/year)
(4) My Social Security Number is ___________________________
(5) My driver‟s license or identification card state and number are __________________
(6) My current address is ________________________________________________
City _______________________ State ___________ ZIP Code ______________
(7) I have lived at this address since _____________________ (month/year)
(8) (If different from above) When the events described in this affidavit took place, my address was
_____________________________________________________________
City _______________________ State ___________ ZIP Code ______________
(9) I lived at the address in Item 8 from _____________ until ___________ (month/year)
(10) My daytime telephone number is (____) __________________
My evening telephone number is (____) __________________
How the Fraud Occurred
Check all that apply for items 11-16
(11) I did not authorize anyone to use my name or personal information to seek the money, credit,
loans, goods or services described in this report.
(12) I did not receive any benefit, money, goods or services as a result of the events described in this
report.
(13) My identification documents (credit cards, birth certificate, driver‟s license, etc.) were stolen /
lost on or about _________________ (day/month/year)
(14) To the best of my knowledge and belief, the following person(s) used my information (for
example, my name, address, date of birth, existing account numbers, Social Security Number, mother‟s
maiden name, etc.) or identification documents to get money, credit, loans, goods or services without
my knowledge or authorization.
Name (if known)
Name (if known)
Address (if known)
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Address (if known)
Phone number(s) (if known)
Phone number(s) (if known)
Additional information (if known)
Additional information (if known)
(15) I do NOT know who used my information or identification documents to get money, credit,
loans, goods or services without my knowledge or authorization.
(16) Additional comments: (For example, descriptions of the fraud, which documents or
information were used, or how the identity thief gained access to your information).
(Attach additional pages as necessary.)
Victim‟s Law Enforcement Actions

(17) (Check one)
I ____ am ____ am not willing to assist in the prosecution of the person(s) who committed this fraud.
(18) (Check one)
I ____ am ____ am not authorizing the release of this information to law enforcement for the purpose
of assisting them in the investigation and prosecution of the person(s) who committed this fraud.
(19) (Check all that apply)
I ____ have ____ have not reported the events described in this affidavit to the police or other law
enforcement agency. The police ____ did ____ did not write a report. In the event you have contacted
the police or other law enforcement agency, please complete the following:
(Agency #1) (Officer/ person taking report) (Date of report) (Report number, if any)
(Phone number) (Email address, if any)
(Agency #2) (Officer/ person taking report) (Date of report) (Report number, if any)
(Phone number) (Email address, if any)
Documentation Checklist
Please indicate the supporting documentation you are able to provide to the companies you plan to
notify. Attach copies (NOT originals) to the affidavit before sending it.
(20) A copy of a valid government-issued photo-identification card (for example, driver‟s license,
passport, state issued ID card). If you don‟t have a photo ID, you may submit a copy of your birth
certificate or a copy of official school records showing your enrollment and place of residence.
(21) Proof of residency during the time the disputed bill occurred, the loan was made, or the other
event took place (for example, a rental/lease agreement in your name, a copy of a utility bill or a copy
of an insurance bill).
61
(22) A copy of the report you filed with the police or sheriff‟s department. If you are unable to
obtain a report or report number from the police, please indicate that in Item 19. (Some companies
only need the report number, not a copy of the report.)
I certify that, to the best of my knowledge and belief, all the information on and attached to this
affidavit is true, correct, and complete and made in good faith. I also understand that this affidavit or
the information it contains may be made available to federal, state, and/or local law enforcement
agencies for such action within their jurisdiction as they deem appropriate. I understand that
knowingly making any false or fraudulent statement or representation to the government may
constitute a violation of 18 U.S.C. §1001 or other federal, state, or local criminal statutes, and may
result in imposition of a fine or imprisonment or both.
_____________________________ __________________
Signature Date Signed
(Notary)
[Check with each company. Some require notarization. If they do not, please have one witness (non
relative) sign below that you completed and signed this affidavit.
____________________ ___________________________ __________________

Signature Printed Name & Phone # Date Signed
62
Fraudulent Account Statement
Completing this Statement
Make as many copies of this page as you need. Complete a separate page for each company
you‟re notifying and only send it to that company. Include a copy of your signed affidavit.
List only the account(s) you‟re disputing with the company receiving this form. If a collection
agency sent you a statement, letter or notice about the fraudulent account, attach a copy of that
document (NOT the original).
I declare that:
As a result of the event(s) described in the ID Theft Affidavit, the following account(s) was/were
opened at your company in my name without my knowledge, permission or authorization using my
personal information or identifying documents:
________________________________________________________________________
Creditor name/address (the company that opened the account or provided the goods or services)
________________________________
Account Number
________________________________________________________________________
Type of unauthorized credit/goods/services provided by creditor (if known)
___________________________
Date issued or opened (if known)
___________________________
Amount/Value provided (the amount charged or cost of the goods or services) _________
63
PARTING SHOT
As you were told in beginning of this book… Credit problems come from a lack of discipline and you
must make a conscious decision to have good credit. It is your responsibility to take care of yourself
financially. Nobody is going to do it for you. This publication is not a magic wand; it‟s an invitation to
change your current credit status. If you are proactive and persistent, you will get your second chance.
What you do next will define your financial future.
SPACE FOR NOTES
64

Comprehensive Credit Repair 10-18-07

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What are the main sections covered in the book?

What are the main sections covered in the book?

What steps does the book recommend for credit repair?

What steps does the book recommend for credit repair?

COMPREHENSIVE

** Index of Forms / Letters

Debt Consolidation Worksheet

How Do I Get A Free Copy Of My Credit Report?

What Is The Easiest Way To Make My Debts Disappear?

Can I Use Legal Pressure To Repair My Credit?

Can I Get A Lower Interest Rate, Or Even A Refund?

Is It Possible To Punish Creditors Who Harass Me?

Should I Wait To Pay Off My Credit Card Balance?

What Are The 6 P‟s Of Successful Personal Finance Management?

Setting Your Goals.

Looking At The Whole Picture.

Their order of importance is as follows:

1. Begin with credit rated with an M for Mortgage

Creditor & Type (M, I, R) Balance Owed Rate Monthly

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

_________________________ $________________ ______% $___________

MONTHLY INCOME MONTHLY EXPENSE

Salaries $_____________ Mortgage $_____________

TOTAL MONTHLY INCOME TOTAL MONTHLY EXPENSE

Paying Your Debts

Debt priority # _________ MasterCard Visa Amex

Month/Year of last payment __________________________

Debt priority # ______________ Account Status

Month/Year of last payment __________________________

Debt priority # ______________ Account Status

Month/Year of last payment __________________________

Month/Year of last payment __________________________

Debt priority # ______________ Account Status

Month/Year of last payment __________________________

Debt priority # ______________ Account Status

Month/Year of last payment __________________________

Date Amount Paid Balance

___________________ $__________________ $__________________

__________________ $__________________ $__________________

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

_____________ $ % $_

Salaries $_ Mortgage $_

_ $ $__

$ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

_ $ $__

On the (date) , I had a conversation with _________

If in installments: I will make payments of ____ (fill in amount) for _