Fiction and Creative Nonfiction: Morning in Nagrebcan
Fiction and Creative Nonfiction: Morning in Nagrebcan
Fiction and Creative Nonfiction: Morning in Nagrebcan
MORNING IN NAGREBCAN
by Manuel E. Arguilla
A five-star hotel has risen on the very spot where our house in Davao City used to be. I literally grew up in that
place, having spent the first 18 years of my life there. Since I left, I have travelled and lived in various places, but I’ve
been back almost every year. There’s a tinge of irony in how my roots and peripatetic ways seem to be reflected in the
fact that the hotel was named after Marco Polo, one of the most well-known travellers in history.
Happily, some of the old landmarks are still there. Despite the entry of numerous shopping malls, the bargain
hunters’ paradise called Aldevinco shopping center has survived ad remains in the same location. During my elementary
and high school days, “sa harap ng Aldevinco” wa my stock answer whenever somebody asked where I live.
Another building that withstood changes in the community is Ateneo, although some of the stores surrounding it
have come and gone. Because of its proximity to our house, and the fact that it offers the highest quality of college
education in Davao, I would have studied in Ateneo except that they would not give me a scholarship. I landed in UP
instead, and began my journey to other cities and other worlds.
Childhood memories came back when I noticed, with a chuckle I might add, that this tiny eatery Pilotos managed
to stick out like the proverbial sore thumb right beside the high wall of Marco Polo hotel. I asked my sister what happened
to the filthy canal at the back of the eatery that wended its way through a row of squatter shanties. She said that hotel had
placed culverts and conveniently covered the muck. I remember our entire brood making a pilgrimage to Pilotos for its
special haluhalo on summer afternoons when we were kids. Once, my brothers raced me to Pilotos from our house and I
fell from the single plank that we had to negotiate to cross the canal. There I was, hanging with both hands on the plank
while my ankles and feet got soaked in the brackish waters with its yucky creatures. That’s the origin of my phobia of
flimsy bridges, which is a real hassle in Palawan where we usually have to walk on slippery logs and broken planks to
cross rivers and streams.
These days, there are more changes than familiar places in the neighbourhood. A bakery and coffee shop has
replaced Dueñas store and the old beerhouse has gone through several incarnations, from restaurant to something else,
before it became the landscaped garden in front of the hotel. Two decades ago, there were an ally between Dueñas and the
beerhouse that led first to our house, and then on to the other houses in the beerhouse the small neighbourhood
sandwiched between C.M Recto and POnciano streets. The area was razed in the late ‘70s, forcing residents to scatter
elsewhere. There were rumors of arson, but as far as I know, this was never proven. All the things I wrote in my first 18
years were lost in that fire. To this day, I still get nervous whenever I smell something burning.
A small shopping mall has long replaced the old boy scout building (although oldtimers still refer to the general
area as boy scout), and the post office has since undergone a much-needed facelift. The “island” between the hotel and the
mall is now called Clifford Park. This used to be the playground of most kids in the neighbourhood, the only open space
where they could fly kites and watch the stars in the evening.
On the street where I grew up, jeepney drivers impatiently honk their way and try to outmaneuver each other in
the one-way traffic. This is certainly a far cry from the days when the jeepney driver would wait for us as we straightened
our pleated uniforms and slowly sit down before setting off again. Up to the early ‘80s, I still remember describing Davao
City as a quiet place with a very slow pace. These days, it is the same old rat race one finds in Manila, Cebu, and other big
cities.
Revisiting my hometown has made me rethink the concept of home. It is funny how a place can be so familiar and
yet so remote. The sight of the ICC building (now UIC since it became a university) on the hilltop near Bankerohan
market brought back nostalgic memories of medals won and speeches nervously delivered. Traversing the same old streets
in speeding jeepneys and taxis, I looked for scenes from the past but found myself getting lost in the vastly changed
cityscape. In the street and the malls, faces from my childhood and the not-too-distant ‘80s called from the sidewalk and
the stalls but I could no longer relate with them. The past seems so far away, and the present has become a stranger. I find
myself wondering if it is possible not to feel “at home” in one’s hometown. The thought seems almost sacrilegious,
knowing the Filipinos’ deep sense of affinity to family and one’s roots.
In the era of space travel and migration, whether forced or voluntary, there growing numbers of “citizens of the
world” whose concept of home must have shifted from the traditional view to a purely personal definition. Home is where
the heart is, the romantics would say. For people who are used to “living out of a suitcase,” home is wherever they are at
any given time. It is like the T-shirt I once saw that read “Whenever you go there you are” or something like that. It is a
popular phrase in the US where travel and moving to other places is a way of life for many people.
It is funny how we can feel so at home in far-away places and not in our hometown. It could be the sign of the
times, and then again, maybe it is just me.
(First published in Bandillo ng Palawan Magazine, July 1999)