H&M Supplier

Lab Manual

Quality Department

December 2010
1. INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................ 5
1.1 Benefits for supplier lab................................................................................... 5
1.2 QA organisation ............................................................................................. 5
1.3 Lab levels...................................................................................................... 5
1.4 Test routine ................................................................................................... 5
1.5 Test Reports .................................................................................................. 5
2. LAB EQUIPMENT ....................................................................................... 6
2.1 Equipment and consumables per product group .................................................. 6
2.2 Specification equipment .................................................................................. 7
2.3 Specification consumables ............................................................................... 8
3. GENERAL .................................................................................................. 9

4. WASH TEST PERFORMANCE .................................................................... 10

TEST PROCEDURE FOR FABRIC ................................................................... 10
4.1 Evaluate the care instruction ...........................................................................10
4.2 Sample Preparation for Wash test-ISO 6330......................................................10
4.3 Measuring the samples before wash .................................................................10
4.4 Twisting .......................................................................................................10
4.5 Colour fastness to household laundering (staining) .............................................10
4.6 Colour fastness to dry/wet rubbing before wash .................................................10
4.7 Wash and dry according to the care instruction ..................................................10
4.8 Iron/stretch the sample..................................................................................11
4.9 Measure the sample after wash .......................................................................11
4.10 Twisting .....................................................................................................11
4.11 Colour fastness to household laundering (staining) and rubbing..........................11
4.12 Appearance.................................................................................................11
4.13 Test report .................................................................................................11
TEST PROCEDURE FOR COUNTER AND PRODUCTION SAMPLES ....................... 12
4.14 Measure the product before wash...................................................................12
4.15 Twisting .....................................................................................................12
4.16 Colour fastness to household laundering (staining) ...........................................12
4.17 Colour fastness to dry/wet rubbing.................................................................12
4.18 Wash and dry according to the care instruction ................................................12
4.19 Iron/stretch the product ...............................................................................12
4.20 Measure the product after wash .....................................................................12
4.21 Colour fastness to household laundering (staining) and rubbing..........................12
4.22 Appearance.................................................................................................13
4.23 Test report .................................................................................................13
4.24 Dry clean....................................................................................................13
4.25 Hand wash..................................................................................................13
HOW TO STRETCH THE GARMENTS AFTER WASH .......................................... 14
4.26 To stretch knitted tops .................................................................................14
4.27 To stretch knitted trousers ............................................................................15
4.28 To stretch knitted skirts ................................................................................16
HOW TO MEASURE TWISTING .................................................................... 17
4.29 Measure twisting on tops ..............................................................................17
4.30 Measure twisting on trousers .........................................................................18
4.31 Measure twisting on trousers with smaller front part on one side ........................19
4.32 Measure twisting on trousers with smaller front part on two sides .......................20
5. MEASURING GUIDE FOR SHRINKAGE ..................................................... 21
5.1 Shirt and Blouse............................................................................................21
5.2 Cardigan ......................................................................................................22
5.3 Sweater .......................................................................................................23
5.4 Top with straps .............................................................................................24
5.5 Jacket..........................................................................................................25
5.6 Dress...........................................................................................................26
5.7 Trousers ......................................................................................................27
5.8 Skirt ............................................................................................................28
5.9 Boxer and Shorts...........................................................................................29

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 5.10 Brief ..........................................................................................................30
5.11 Bra and Bikini top ........................................................................................31
5.12 Swimsuit ....................................................................................................32
5.13 Socks and Tights .........................................................................................33
5.14 Baby body ..................................................................................................34
5.15 Baby wrap top.............................................................................................35
5.16 Baby Overall and Romper .............................................................................36
5.17 Baby bib trousers ........................................................................................37
5.18 Gloves and mittens ......................................................................................38
5.19 Caps and hats .............................................................................................39
6. APPEARANCE AFTER 5 TIMES WASH....................................................... 40

7. COLOUR FASTNESS TO WATER ............................................................... 41

7.1 Sampling......................................................................................................41
7.2 How to choose adjacent fibre ..........................................................................42
7.3 Test procedure ..............................................................................................42
7.4 Evaluation ....................................................................................................42
7.5 Examples of cross staining ..............................................................................43
8. COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION................................................... 44
8.1 Sampling......................................................................................................44
8.2 How to choose adjacent fibre ..........................................................................44
8.3 Test procedure ..............................................................................................44
8.4 Evaluation ....................................................................................................44
9. COLOUR FASTNESS TO SALIVA ............................................................... 45
9.1 How to prepare saliva solution.........................................................................45
9.2 Sampling......................................................................................................45
9.3 How to choose adjacent fibre ..........................................................................45
9.4 Test procedure ..............................................................................................45
9.5 Evaluation ....................................................................................................46
10. COLOUR FASTNESS –DYE TRANSFER IN STORAGE................................ 47
10.1 Purpose and Scope ......................................................................................47
10.2 Sampling ....................................................................................................47
10.3 How to choose adjacent fibre.........................................................................47
10.4 Test procedure ............................................................................................47
10.5 Evaluation ..................................................................................................47
11. COLOUR FASTNESS TO HOT PRESSING ................................................. 48
11.1 Sampling ....................................................................................................48
11.2 How to choose adjacent fibre.........................................................................48
11.3 Test procedure ............................................................................................48
11.4 Evaluation ..................................................................................................48
12. COLOUR FASTNESS TO PHENOLIC YELLOWING .................................... 49
12.1 Purpose and Scope ......................................................................................49
12.2 Sampling ....................................................................................................49
12.3 Test procedure ............................................................................................49
12.4 Evaluation ..................................................................................................49
13. COLOUR FASTNESS TO BLEEDING -JEWELLERY AND HAIR ACCESSORIES50
13.1 Bleeding method .........................................................................................50
14. COLOUR FASTNESS TO DRY RUBBING -SMALL ACCESSORIES ............... 51
14.1 Dry rubbing method .....................................................................................51
15. CONDITIONING TEST FOR STICKERS.................................................... 53
15.1 Sampling ....................................................................................................53
15.2 Preparation of samples before sending ............................................................53
15.3 Test procedure ............................................................................................53
16. TEAR STRENGTH ................................................................................... 54

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 16.1 Sampling for denim......................................................................................54
17. ABRASION RESISTANCE FOR SOCKS AND TIGHTS ................................ 55
17.1 Evaluation ..................................................................................................55
18. COLD TEST ............................................................................................ 55

19. REFLECTOR TEST .................................................................................. 56

19.1 How to test reflective material attached to washable product .............................56
20. WICKING TEST ..................................................................................... 57
20.1 Test procedure ............................................................................................57
21. DROP TEST PERFORMANCE (FOR ACCESSORIES).................................. 58

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1. Introduction
1.1 Benefits for supplier lab

One of the main advantages of having an in-house lab is to be able to test many more samples
than without, which is both more practical and economic and also leads to a better control over
production.

With constantly increasing quantities, the counter and production sample becomes less and
less representative for a whole order. It is therefore very important that the supplier test
various samples from different parts (lots, countries etc.) of the production.
H&M will trust approved suppliers test reports, which also will reduce costs and lead time.

Furthermore possible quality problems will be found earlier and it is easier to locate the reason
and rectify it, which will further reduce the costs.

1.2 QA organisation

An acceptable QA organisation should consist of:

 Lab technician
 Colour technician
 Chemical responsible

Two or more of above roles could be covered by the same person. We recommend having at
least two lab technicians, in case one resigns. Supplier must inform H&M immediately when an
approved lab technician resigns.

Relevant correlation tests need to be accepted before approval. The correlation test will be
evaluated based on both test results and assessment.

After approval H&M will randomly make correlation tests to make sure the tests and
assessments are continuously done correctly.

1.3 Lab levels

There are 3 different levels of labs, level 1-3 depending on which equipment is available and
which tests H&M has given approval for. Supplier shall have equipment and pass the
correlation tests for below tests if applicable for each level respectively.

 Level 1: Colour fastness to household laundering, dimensional stability to household

laundering, twisting, appearance after wash, colour fastness to dry /wet rubbing, drop
test and nickel test.

 Level 2: Level 1+ Colour fastness to water, perspiration, saliva and phenolic yellowing.
Spray test, cold test, pH test.

 Level 3: Level 2 + Pile loss, pilling, seam slippage, tearing.

1.4 Test routine

After correlation approval the QA department at you local H&M office will provide you with this
routine. The purpose of the routine is to give you a tool to secure that your whole production is
in compliance with H&M quality requirements.

1.5 Test Reports

Test reports should be available for H&M’s auditor to inspect and to be sent to H&M on
request. Test reports and all tested samples must be kept for minimum six months after TOD.

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2. Lab equipment
2.1 Equipment and consumables per product group

Underwear
outer wear
Heavy knit
Lab level

Functional

washable
Equipment

Woven
Jersey

Non
Crocking cloth X X X X X X
Consumables

1 Grey scales X X X X X X
Multifibre X X X X X X
BHT free polyethylene film X X X X X X
Control papers X X X X X X
2
Single adjacent fibre X X X X X X
Test papers X X X X X X
Calculator X X X X X
Detergent X X X X X
Drying racks X X X X X
Iron & iron board X X X X X
Wash test

Light box X X X X X X
1 Measuring tape X X X X X
Scissors X X X X X X
Softener plant /water filter X X X X X
Tumble dryer X X X X X
Wash machine X X X X X
Water proof mark pens X X X X X
1 Nickel kit X X X X X X
Chemical

X X X X X

2 pH meter

Acrylic or glass plates X X X X X X

fastness tests

Crockmeter X X X X X X
Distilled water X X X X X X
Colour

2 Glass bowl X X X X X X
Oven X X X X X X
Perspirometer X X X X X X
Weight piece X X X X X X
1 Ceramic tile* X
2 Freezer X
Physical
tests

2 ICI Pilling tester X X X X

3 Martindale X X X
2 Spray test device X
3 Titan X X X
*if producing products for which drop test is required.

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2.2 Specification equipment

 Acrylic or glass plates: measuring approximately 115mm x 60mm x 1,5mm.

 Calculator
 Ceramic tile: same as floor in H&M shops.
 Crockmeter: complying with ISO 105-X12
 Detergent: type for coloured garments (according to local PO). Shall fulfil H&M
Chemical restrictions and preferably be phosphate free.
 Distilled water
 Drying racks
 Freezer: to be able to reach -18°C.
 Glass bowl
 Glass plates: measuring approximately 100mm x 40mm x 3mm.
 ICI Pilling tester: complying with ISO 12945-1.
 Iron (Household style) & Iron board
 Light box: see Supplier Colour guidebook.
 Martindale: complying with ISO 12945-2.
 Measuring tape in cm
 Nickel kit according to prEN 12471.
 Oven: without an air-circulating fan or possibility to turn the fan off.
 Perspirometer: stainless steel frame complying with ISO standards.
 Plastic bags: polyethylene
 pH-meter
 Scissors
 Softener plant/water filter (If necessary, recommended hardness of water ~5dH for
washing).
 Spray test device: complying with ISO 4920.
 Titan: complying with ISO standards.
 Tumble dryer: (Depending on required care instructions for produced product.)
Electrolux T4130 Tumble or similar. The drier should have two temperature settings
high (70°C) and low 50 (°C).
 Washing machine: Electrolux W455H with H&M programs.
 Waterproof mark pens: white and black.
 Weight-piece: mass ~5kg so that a pressure of 12,5kPa can be applied on the
specimens (according to ISO standards).

Calibration needs to be done annually by the supplier of the equipment.

Wash machines and tumble dryers to be ordered from Electrolux Sweden, contact
Anna Engstrand at [email protected]

Other equipment and spare parts (if needed) must be ordered from a well known brand. The
equipment must always comply with the testing standard according to H&M Quality Standards
and requirements.

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2.3 Specification consumables

 BHT (butylhydroxytoluene) free polyethylene film: (400mm x 200mm, ~63µm thick)

 Control fabric: (100mmx30mm) white polyamide
 Crocking cloth: ISO 105-F09, size: 50x50mm or in running meters.
 Grey scale for assessing change in colour: EN 20105-A02 or ISO 105-A02 (must be
used for all judgement of change in colour).
 Grey scale for assessing staining: EN 20105-A03 or ISO 105-A03 (must be used for
all judgement of colour staining and rubbing).
 Multifibre: type DW.
 Single adjacent fabric: ISO or GB (Chinese standard), selection depending on which
fibre composition to be tested:
- ISO 105-F01 to 05
- GB/T 7568.1-6 & GB/T 13765
 Test papers: (100mm x 75mm), density 88g/m2 at 20°C, of 98% pure cellulose treated
with <0,1% 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-nitrophenol

Consumables are available from, among others: James H. Heal (www.james-heal.co.uk); SDC
Enterprises Limited (www.sdcenterprises.co.uk); SDL Atlas (www.sdlatlas.com). H&M cannot
be hold responsible for the performance of these companies’ products.

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3. General
H&M generally refers to International and European standard methods (ISO and EN) which are
possible to purchase worldwide. The latest published standard method is valid.

All H&M tests are performed in unconditioned atmosphere.

In case of contradicting test results the test result of H&M will prevail.

Definitions:

Color staining (also known as "staining")

How much the colour stain on multifibre cloth or adjacent fibre.

Cross staining
On multi coloured products. How much the colour stain on lighter areas within same
fabric/product or how much a detail/application stains on the product/fabric it is attached to.
See examples on page 39.

Colour change
The difference in colour between tested and untested specimen/product.

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4. Wash test performance
Test procedure for fabric
4.1 Evaluate the care instruction
Evaluate the correct wash care instruction based on type of the product and material. Combine
suggestions of fabric supplier together with H&M thinking and consult PO lab if more support is
needed in deciding CI. (Preferably check with FTD – Fabric Technical Data sheet)

4.2 Sample Preparation for Wash test-ISO 6330

For qualities dyed in lots: From each fabric lot, cut specimens and make a mock up garment or
a “bag” measuring at least 1000x500mm (1m2 fabric) by stitching 3 sides of two layers of
fabric representing the garment in direction and dimensions.

For qualities dyed in rolls: From each 400 m, make a “bag” measuring at least 1000x500mm
(1m2 fabric) by stitching 3 sides of two layers of fabric representing the garment in direction
and dimensions.

If the end product will have a lining, sew a “bag “with one layer of shell fabric and one layer of
lining measuring 1000x500mm (1m2 fabric).

If garment wash is required for the end product, the sample to be prepared should be garment
washed. For the garments that have components like binding, lace, taping, etc. in qualities
other than the base fabric or parts in different colours attach all components on to the sample
in dimensions that will be used in the end product.

4.3 Measuring the samples before wash

 Make sure that the sample is completely flat and without creases.
 Mark in both width and length directions with a waterproof pen and measure between
the points (take min 1 measurement in length and 1 measurement in width)

4.4 Twisting
Since the side seams are at the edges of the garment, twisting is accepted as “0” before
washing.

4.5 Colour fastness to household laundering (staining)

Attach a piece of multifibre cloth 4x10cm on the sample.

4.6 Colour fastness to dry/wet rubbing before wash

Dry rubbing must always be performed on dyed and printed fabrics. If the same garment is
made in different colours or material, you must perform the rubbing on each part separately.

 Place the garment on the crock meter, make sure that the garment is flat without
creases.
 Rub 10 times, 1 time per second. The rubbing must be performed lengthwise if
possible.
 Make sure you get an even circle. If not, perform the test again.
 Attach the rubbing cloth at the back of the test report with a comment where it is taken
(for example: shell, lining…).
 Wet rubbing: add one drop of distilled water on the cotton cloth before you attach it on
the finger of the machine and then rub 10 times, 1 time per second.

4.7 Wash and dry according to the care instruction

 Wash the garment separately according to the care using 10g detergent.
 Dry the garment according to the care instruction.

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4.8 Iron/stretch the sample
When the sample is completely dry
 Woven samples must be ironed according to the care instruction, make sure it becomes
flat. Always use steam when ironing with 2 and 3 dots.
 Knitted samples must be stretched in both directions before measuring after wash.

4.9 Measure the sample after wash

The same measurements as before wash must be measured after wash.

4.10 Twisting
 Measure twisting as the “side seam twist” by dividing the twist amount (in cm) to the
length of the open side of the bag.

4.11 Colour fastness to household laundering (staining) and rubbing

 Perform the dry rubbing test after wash and attach it on the back of the test report.
 Cut the edges on the multifibre cloth free from loose threads and attach it at the back
of the test report.
 Place an unwashed multifibre cloth next to the washed one when assessing as
reference. The grading of staining and rubbing must always be assessed with the grey
scale in the Light box, light source D65.
 If any of the results are below H&M requirements in staining or cross staining, check all
components by washing separately and consult H&M PO lab for suggestions in
improvement or approval.
 In case of an approval below H&M requirements for staining, add “wash with similar
colours” on care label.
 If any of the results are below H&M requirements for dry rubbing after trying to
improve, consult H&M PO lab.

4.12 Appearance
How does the bag or the mock up garment look after wash compared to before
wash?
 Cross staining – If one product has many colours and one colour bleeds onto another
colour in wash.
 Change in colour - If the colour, print or other details have faded in wash. Compare
with unwashed sample.
 Pills or fuzzy surface on the sample.
 Uneven/twisted shape of the sample.
 Colour difference/Shading on the sample.
 Hand feel, stiff and harsh.

4.13 Test report

 Fill in all results, shrinkage, staining, rubbing and other faults on the test report.
 If any of the tests are not within H&M requirements, a comment must be written in the
Remark box for example, “Staining is too high”.

Please note: When shrinkage for all measuring points are within the requirements, it’s an
OK result. If the average is within our requirements but some of the measurements are
above, you must still write a remark on the report about the shrinkage for example,
“Shrinkage in sleeve length are too high”.

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Test procedure for Counter and Production Samples
4.14 Measure the product before wash
If product wash process is to be carried out for the end product, the sample should be treated
with this process before testing.

 Make sure that the product is completely flat and without creases.
 Measure the product in both length and width according to the sketches. There are 2-3
measurements in each direction.
 Difficult styles should be marked with a wash proof pen where you measure in order to
know where to measure after wash.

4.15 Twisting
Twisting must be checked on all types of products before and after wash.
 Measured twisting at bottom hem.
 If the side seams are not at the edges of the product due to the design, make marks at
the edges with a wash proof pen before wash so you easy can see if there is any
change after wash. (see page 13)

4.16 Colour fastness to household laundering (staining)

Attach a piece of multifibre cloth 4 x 10cm on all dyed and printed products and fabrics.

4.17 Colour fastness to dry/wet rubbing

Dry rubbing must always be performed on dyed and printed products and fabrics.
If the same product is made in different colours or material, you must perform the rubbing on
each part.

 Place the product on the crock meter, make sure that the product is flat without
creases and then rub 10 times, 1 time per second. The rubbing must be performed
lengthwise if possible.
 Make sure you get an even circle. If not, perform the test again.
 Attach the rubbing cloth at the back of the test report with a comment where it is taken
(for example: shell, lining…).
 Wet rubbing: add one drop of distilled water on the cotton cloth before you attach it on
the finger of the machine and then rub 10 times, 1 time per second.

4.18 Wash and dry according to the care instruction

 Wash the product separately according to the care instruction using 10 g detergent.
 Dry the product according to the care instruction.

4.19 Iron/stretch the product

When the product is completely dry:

 Woven products must be ironed according to the care instruction, make sure it becomes
flat. Always use steam when ironing with 2 and 3 dots.
 Knitted products must be stretched in both directions before measuring after wash.
(see page 10)

4.20 Measure the product after wash

The same measurements as before wash must be measured after wash.

4.21 Colour fastness to household laundering (staining) and rubbing

 Perform the dry rubbing test after wash and attach it on the back of the test report.
 Cut the edges on the staining cloth free from loose threads and attach it at the back of
the test report.

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  The grading of staining and rubbing must always be assessed with the grey scale in the
Light box, light source D65. Place an unwashed staining cloth next to the washed one
when assessing as reference.

4.22 Appearance
How does the product look after wash compared to before wash?
 Cross staining – If one product has many colours and one colour bleeds onto another
colour in wash.
 Change in colour - If the colour, print or other details have faded in wash. Compare
with unwashed sample.
 Print cracks or disappears in wash.
 Pills or fuzzy surface on the product.
 Uneven/ twisted shape of the product.
 Colour difference/Shading on the product.
 Strings or similar details unravels at the ends
 Bad attached inter facing.
 Bad linking.
 Seam puckering.
 Seam breaks, too narrow seam allowance.
 Hand feel, stiff and harsh.

4.23 Test report

• Fill in all results, shrinkage, staining, rubbing and other faults on the test report.
 If any of the tests are not within H&M requirements, a comment must be written in the
Remark box for example, “Staining is too high”.

Please note: When shrinkage for all measuring points are within the requirements, it’s an OK
result. If the average is within our requirements but some of the measurements are above,
you must still write a remark on the report about the shrinkage for example, “Shrinkage in
sleeve length are too high”.

4.24 Dry clean

Check the shrinkage, appearance, dry/wet rubbing before and after dry cleaning on all
products sent to commercial dry cleaning.

4.25 Hand wash

 Fill the washtub with 35°C warm water. Use a thermometer to make sure that you have the
right temperature.
 Dissolve 25 ml. liquid detergent (Y3) in the water. If any other liquid detergent will be used,
please add as instruction.
 Put the garment into the water and squeeze it for 2-3 minutes. DO NOT wring or rub the
garment. DO NOT LET IT BE IN SOAK.
 Rinse 3-4 times in cold water until the water is clear from detergent. Please note: For wool
garments, you must rinse in the same temperature as the washing temperature (35°C).
 Squeeze the garment from water.
 Let it dry according to the care instruction.

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How to stretch the garments after wash
4.26 To stretch knitted tops
This is how you should stretch knitted tops after wash when dry. Stretch each point gently
once. Always start with the length and continue with the width.

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4.27 To stretch knitted trousers
This is how you should stretch knitted trousers after wash when dry. Stretch each point gently
once. Always start with the length and continue with the width.

Length Width

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4.28 To stretch knitted skirts
This is how you should stretch knitted skirts after wash when dry. Stretch each point gently
once. Always start with the length and continue with the width.

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How to measure twisting
4.29 Measure twisting on tops
Example: Measure the cm at bottom hem from seam to edge = 5 cm.
Divide 5 cm with total width at bottom hem (50 cm) and write down the result in percentages
(10 %).

Before wash After wash

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4.30 Measure twisting on trousers
Example: Measure the cm at bottom hem from seam to edge = 2 cm.
Divide 2 cm with total width at bottom hem (20 cm) and write down the result in percentages
(10 %).

Before wash After wash

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4.31 Measure twisting on trousers with smaller front part on one side
Example: Mark the edges with a wash proof pen so you know how it is before wash.
If any difference after wash, measure from your mark to the edge at bottom hem = 2 cm.
Divide 2 cm with total width at bottom hem (20 cm) and write down the result in percentages
(10 %).

Before wash After wash

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4.32 Measure twisting on trousers with smaller front part on two sides
Example: Mark edges with a wash proof pen so you know how it is before wash.
If any difference after wash, measure from your mark to the edge at bottom hem = 2 cm.
Divide 2 cm with total width at bottom hem (20 cm) and write down the result in percentages
(10 %).

Before wash After wash

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5. Measuring guide for shrinkage
5.1 Shirt and Blouse

1. Length - from centre back neck seam to bottom edge

2. Length - below collar stand, over front placket to bottom edge
3. Length - from shoulder seam to bottom of sleeve edge
4. Width - straight across the chest over nearest button, from edge to edge
5. Width - straight across over last button, from edge to edge

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5.2 Cardigan

1. Length - from centre back below binding to bottom edge

2. Length - from top of first button, over front placket to bottom edge
3. Length - from shoulder seam to bottom of sleeve edge
4. Width - straight across chest over nearest button, from edge to edge
5. Width - straight across over last button, from edge to edge

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5.3 Sweater

1. Length - from centre back neckline to bottom edge

2. Length - from centre front neckline to bottom edge
3. Length - from neck seam to bottom of sleeve edge
4. Width - straight across chest, 1 cm below sleeve hole from edge to edge
5. Width - along bottom part from edge to edge

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5.4 Top with straps

1. Length - from centre back neckline below binding to bottom edge

2. Length - from centre front neckline below binding to bottom edge
3. Width - straight across chest, 1cm below sleeve hole from edge to edge
4. Width - along bottom part from edge to edge

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5.5 Jacket

1. Length - from centre back neck seam to bottom edge

2. Length - from top of turned up collar (see sketch) to bottom edge
3. Length - from shoulder seam to bottom of sleeve edge
4. Width - straight across the chest over nearest button, from edge to edge
5. Width - straight across over last button, from edge to edge

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5.6 Dress

1. Length - from centre back neckline below binding to bottom edge

2. Length - from centre front neckline below binding to bottom edge
3. Length - from shoulder seam to bottom of sleeve edge
4a. Width - straight across chest, 1 cm below sleeve hole from edge to edge
4b. Width with darts - below darts straight across chest, from edge to edge
4c. Width if fitted - straight across waist, from edge to edge
5. Length - along bottom part from edge to edge

4c

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 26(62)

December 2010
5.7 Trousers

1. Length - approximately in the mid of leg, from top of the waist to bottom of leg
2. Length - 1 cm below crotch, along the inner seam to bottom of leg
3. Width - along the edge of waistband, from edge to edge
4. Width - 1 cm below crotch, straight across thigh from edge to edge
5. Width - along the edge of leg opening, from edge to edge

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 27(62)

December 2010
5.8 Skirt

1. Length - from centre back to bottom edge

2. Length - from centre front to bottom edge
3. Width - along the edge of waistband, from edge to edge
4a. Width - along bottom from edge to edge
4b. Width with slit – straight across above slit from edge to edge

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 28(62)

December 2010
5.9 Boxer and Shorts

1. Length - approximately in the mid of leg, from waist to bottom of leg

2. Length - along the front seam, from top of waist to crotch seam
3. Width - along the edge of released waistband, from edge to edge
4. Width - along the edge of leg opening, from edge to edge

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 29(62)

December 2010
5.10 Brief

1. Length - along folded edge at centre front, from top of waist to back crotch seam
2. Length - along folded edge at centre back, from top of waist to back crotch seam
3. Width - along the edge of released waistband
4. Width - approximately in the mid of back (mark with a wash proof pen) straight across
back from edge to edge

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 30(62)

December 2010
5.11 Bra and Bikini top

1. Length - from bottom of cup over highest point to front edge of cup
2a. Width - along bottom of the edge
2b. Width - along bottom edge of cup

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 31(62)

December 2010
5.12 Swimsuit

1. Length - folded, from centre front neckline to crotch seam

2. Length - Folded, from centre back neckline to crotch seam
3a. Width - 1 cm below sleeve hole, from edge to edge
3b. Width on swimsuits with deep neck drop at back - measure at back, below neck drop
from edge to edge
4. Width - 1 cm above leg opening, from edge to edge

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 32(62)

December 2010
5.13 Socks and Tights

A.
1. Length - from shaft edge to middle of heel
2. Length - from middle of heel to edge of toe
3. Width - over cuff from edge to edge
4. Width - across foot from edge to edge

B.
1. Length - approximately in the mid of leg, from top of waist to middle of heel
2. Length - from the middle of heel to edge of toe
3. Width - along the edge of (released) waistband, from edge to edge

A. B.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 33(62)

December 2010
5.14 Baby body

1. Length - from centre back, below binding to bottom edge

2. Length - from centre front, below binding to bottom edge
3. Length - from shoulder seam to bottom of sleeve edge
4. Width - straight across chest, 1 cm below sleeve hole from edge to edge
5. Width - straight across above leg opening, from edge to edge

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 34(62)

December 2010
5.15 Baby wrap top

1. Length - from centre back neckline below binding, to bottom edge

2. Length - from top of raglan seam to bottom edge
3. Length - from neckline below binding to bottom of sleeve edge
4. Width - straight across back, 1 cm below sleeve hole, from seam to seam
5. Width - along bottom at back, from seam to seam

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 35(62)

December 2010
5.16 Baby Overall and Romper

A.
1. Length - at front from mid of shoulder seam to bottom edge of leg
2. Length - from centre front neckline below binding to crotch seam
3. Length - from shoulder seam to bottom of sleeve edge
4. Width - straight across chest, 1 cm below sleeve hole from edge to edge
5. Width - straight across seat from edge to edge
6. Width - along the edge of leg opening, from edge to edge

B.
1. Length - from mid of shoulder seam to bottom of leg
2. Length - from a top button, along the binding to crotch seam
3. Length - from shoulder seam to bottom of sleeve edge
4. Width - straight across chest over nearest button, from edge to edge
5. Width - straight across seat over nearest button, from edge to edge

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 36(62)

December 2010
5.17 Baby bib trousers

1. Length - from top of bib to bottom of leg

2. Length - from centre top of bib to crotch seam
3. Width - on bib part along waistband, from edge to edge
4. Width - straight across seat from edge to edge
5. Width - along the edge of leg opening from edge to edge

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 37(62)

December 2010
5.18 Gloves and mittens

A.
1. Length - from top of middle finger to bottom
2. Width - from edge to edge

B.
1. Length - from top to bottom
2. Width - from edge to edge

A. B.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 38(62)

December 2010
5.19 Caps and hats

A.
1. Length – from seam to seam at centre front
2. Width – on the sweatband inside the hat

B.
1. Length - from top to bottom at centre front
2. Width - on the sweatband inside the hat

C
1. Length - from top to bottom
2. Width - from edge to edge at bottom

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 39(62)

December 2010
6. Appearance after 5 times wash
Wash the product according to the care instruction five times. If the drying instruction is
tumble dry, dry the product between each washing cycle.

How does the product look after five washes and five drying cycles compared to
before wash?
 Cross staining – If one product has many colours and one colour bleeds onto another
colour in wash.
 Change in colour - If the colour, print or other details have faded in wash. Compare
with unwashed sample.
 Print cracks or disappears in wash.
 Pills or fuzzy surface on the product.
 Uneven/twisted shape of the product.
 Colour difference/Shading on the product.
 Strings or similar details unravels at the ends
 Bad attached inter facing.
 Bad linking.
 Seam breaks, too narrow seam allowance.
 Hand feel, stiff and harsh.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 40(62)

December 2010
7. Colour fastness to water
7.1 Sampling
All products and parts of products including details such as labels, badges and drawstrings
need to be tested. Both solid and multi coloured products needs to be tested. If the product is
multi coloured, make sure all colours are included in the specimen to be tested. More
specimens could be required if the specimens are printed, striped or have many colours.

Different parts in contrast colours need to be tested, both against each other and against the
adjacent fibre. Cut specimens of all colours and stitch them together face side to face side.

If face and back side are different in colour or construction, both face and back side needs to
be tested. If sample is all over printed and backside is strong coloured and visible at face side,
no need to test back side against adjacent fibre. (No need to test light coloured backsides
either.)

If the product has details (including prints) in contrast colour they need to be tested both
against adjacent fibre and against the fabric of which the detail is attached. If not contrast
colour they need to be tested only against adjacent fibre.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 41(62)

December 2010
7.2 How to choose adjacent fibre
Use ISO or GB adjacent fibre according to below.

The content of the first adjacent fabric should be the same as the content of the specimen,
and for the second adjacent fabric please see the list below. For blend specimen, select two
kind of adjacent fabrics which content are same as the most two fibers of the specimen.

For products and details in other materials than textile (for example leather), choose multifibre
instead of adjacent fibres. Remember also to test e.g. leather badge details together with the
fabric which it is attached to.

If specimen contains elastane fibres, disregard them when choosing adjacent fibre. (E.g. For
95%cotton and 5% elastane choose adjacent fibres corresponding to 100% cotton.)

Consider regenerated fibres such as modal, lyocell and bamboo viscose, as viscose fibres and
choose corresponding adjacent fibres.

For other fibres not mentioned in the table below choose multifibre.

the first adjacent fabric the second adjacent fabric

(same as specimen)
cotton wool
wool cotton
silk cotton
linen wool
viscose wool
acetate viscose
nylon cotton
polyester cotton
acrylic cotton

7.3 Test procedure

Test should be performed according to ISO 105-E01 or GB/T 5713.

7.4 Evaluation
NOTE! When assessing staining of different parts of contrast coloured products or product with
contrast coloured details, this should be considered as a cross staining i.e. the requirement is
4/5.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 42(62)

December 2010
7.5 Examples of cross staining

Contrast coloured leather

badges needs to be tested
together with shell fabric. If not
possible to sew this onto
multifibre, just lay them
together between acrylic plates.

Contrast coloured
parts of products
need to be tested.

Black embroidery
needs to be
tested, even
though the silk
tunic is only to be
dry cleaned.

The red colour bleeds onto the

white draw string. Important to
test draw string together with
shell fabric.

Contrast coloured pattern

needs to be tested.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 43(62)

December 2010
8. Colour fastness to perspiration
8.1 Sampling
All textile products (both solid and multicoloured) including details such as labels, badges and
drawstrings need to be tested. If the product is multi coloured, make sure all colours are
included in the specimen to be tested. More specimens could be required if the specimens are
printed, striped or have many colours.

If face and back side are different in colour or construction, both face and back side needs to
be tested. If sample is all over printed and backside is strong coloured and visible at face side,
no need to test back side against adjacent fibre. (No need to test light coloured backsides
either.)

If textile details in contrast colour (compared to the product) they need to be tested both
against adjacent fibre and the fabric of which the detail is attached. If not contrast colour they
need to be tested only against adjacent fibre.

8.2 How to choose adjacent fibre

Use ISO or GB adjacent fibre according to below.

The content of the first adjacent fabric should be the same as the content of the specimen,
and for the second adjacent fabric please see the list below.
For blend specimen, select two kind of adjacent fabrics which content are same as the most
two fibers of the specimen.

If specimen contains elastane fibres, disregard them when choosing adjacent fibre. (E.g. For
95%cotton and 5% elastane choose adjacent fibres corresponding to 100% cotton.)

Consider regenerated fibres such as modal, lyocell and bamboo viscose, as viscose fibres and
choose corresponding adjacent fibres.

For other fibres not mentioned in the table below choose multifibre.

the first adjacent fabric the second adjacent fabric

(same as specimen)
cotton wool
wool cotton
silk cotton
linen wool
viscose wool
acetate viscose
nylon viscose
polyester cotton
acrylic cotton

8.3 Test procedure

Test should be performed according to ISO 105-E04 or Chinese standard GB/T 3922.

8.4 Evaluation
NOTE! When assessing staining of different parts of contrast coloured products or product with
contrast coloured details, this should be considered as a cross staining i.e. the requirement is
4/5.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 44(62)

December 2010
9. Colour fastness to saliva
9.1 How to prepare saliva solution
Prepare saliva solution containing per litre distilled water:

3.0g Lactic acid (CH3.CH(OH).COOH)

0.2g Carbamide (H2N.CO.NH2)
4.5g Sodium Chloride (NaCl)
0.3g Patassium Chloride (KCl)
0.3g Sodium Sulfide (Na2SO4)
0.4g Ammonium Chloride (NH4Cl)

9.2 Sampling
All baby’s products (both solid and multicoloured) including details such as labels, badges and
drawstrings need to be tested. If the product is multi coloured, make sure all colours are
included in the specimen to be tested. More specimens could be required if the specimens are
printed, striped or have many colours. Test at least 2 specimens.

9.3 How to choose adjacent fibre

Use adjacent fibres according to below.

The content of the first adjacent fabric should be the same as the content of the specimen,
and for the second adjacent fabric please see the list below.
For blend specimen, select two kind of adjacent fabrics which content are same as the most
two fibers of the specimen.

If specimen contains elastane fibres, disregard them when choosing adjacent fibre. (E.g. For
95%cotton and 5% elastane choose adjacent fibres corresponding to 100% cotton.)

Consider regenerated fibres such as modal, lyocell and bamboo viscose, as viscose fibres and
choose corresponding adjacent fibres.

For other fibres not mentioned in the table below choose multifibre.

For products and details in other materials than textile (for example PEVA), choose multifibre
instead of adjacent fibres.

the first adjacent fabric the second adjacent fabric

(same as specimen)
cotton wool
wool cotton
silk cotton
linen wool
viscose wool
acetate viscose
nylon viscose
polyester cotton
acrylic cotton

9.4 Test procedure

Follow same test procedure as for colour fastness to perspiration test (according to ISO 105-
E04 or Chinese standard GB/T 3922) but prepare and use saliva solution instead of the
perspiration solutions. No need to bring the saliva solution to specific pH.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 45(62)

December 2010
9.5 Evaluation
Assess the staining on both the 1st and the 2nd adjacent fabric with the grey scales. If
multifibre is used, assess the fibre which is most stained. Also assess change in colour and
cross staining for all specimens.

NOTE! When assessing staining of different parts of contrast coloured products or product with
contrast coloured details, this should be considered as a cross staining i.e. the requirement is
4/5. The worst result it the total test result.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 46(62)

December 2010
10. Colour fastness –Dye transfer in storage
10.1 Purpose and Scope
The storage of garments made with component parts of more than one shade sometimes
results in the transfer of dye from one area to another, normally from the darker to the lighter
shade. This phenomenon is distinct from sublimation because it occurs below the sublimation
temperature of dyes as well as with nonsubliming dyes.
Dye transfer occurs when garments are folded with different shades in intimate contact with
each other. Normally the amount of dye transferred is intensified when moisture is present,
and thus the problem is more severe during warm, humid weather or when garments are
steamed immediately before storage. Storage in plastic bags tends to maintain the initial
relative humidity of the garment environment and can aggravate or reduce transfer depending
on the condition of the fabric when it enters the bag.

10.2 Sampling
All contrast coloured (when compared to the product it is attached on) textile labels, textile
badges, other textile trims, prints and also leather details need to be tested.
The labels/badges/trims need to be tested against the fabric of which it is attached.

10.3 How to choose adjacent fibre

Adjacent fibre shall be same as the label/detail which shall be tested.
For labels and details in other materials than textile (for example leather), choose cotton as
adjacent fibre.

10.4 Test procedure

Test should be performed according to modified AATCC 163. Modification: Specimens to be
4x10cm, ISO or GB adjacent fabric and multifibre type DW to be used.

10.5 Evaluation
When the specimens are dry, assess the staining on both the adjacent fibre and the multifibre with
the grey scales. Assess the fibre which is most stained on the multifibre. Also assess change in
colour and cross staining on all the specimens. The worst result is the total test result.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 47(62)

December 2010
11. Colour fastness to hot pressing
11.1 Sampling
All contrast coloured (when compared to the product it is attached on) textile labels, textile
badges and other textile trims need to be tested.

11.2 How to choose adjacent fibre

Cotton adjacent fibre shall be used. The labels/badges/trims also need to be tested against
the fabric of which it is attached.

11.3 Test procedure

Test should be performed according to ISO 105-X11.

11.4 Evaluation
When the specimens are dry assess the staining on the adjacent fibre with the grey scales.
Also assess change in colour and cross staining on all the specimens.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 48(62)

December 2010
12. Colour fastness to phenolic yellowing
12.1 Purpose and Scope
To assess the potential of white and light coloured fabrics to yellow due to contamination by
stearically hindered phenols. This test is to be carried out on fabric which has not yellowed.

The test is specific to phenolic yellowing, that is the discolouration of textiles due to a reaction
between nitrogen oxides (NOx) and yellowing phenols (might be present in storage materials,
polyurethane foam, fabric finishes etc.). It is not intended to deal with other causes of
discolouration such as Optical Brightening Agents deposits, oxidation of fabric lubricants etc.

12.2 Sampling
All products and part of products including details such as labels, badges and drawstrings need
to be tested. If the product is multi coloured, make sure all colours are included in the
specimen to be tested. More specimens could be required if the specimens are printed, striped
or have many colours.

White and light coloured fabrics in polyamide and polyamide/elastane blends are most risky.
Products that contain polyurethane foam, such as padded bras are especially risky, as are
products packed in plastic bags and/or stored under polluted conditions (e.g. bad ventilation).
Products subject to treatment at high temperatures such as heat setting and moulding are also
at higher risk and should be tested.

For narrow fabric a single strip of material measuring 100 mm in length is enough.

12.3 Test procedure

Test should be performed according to ISO 105-X18.

12.4 Evaluation
Assess the test specimens within 30 minutes of unwrapping. Start the assessment with the control
fabric and make sure it has yellowed to at least a grade 3 using the grey scale. If not, the test has
not been carried out successfully, and needs to be repeated. Assess the colour change of the
specimens against original material (untested material), using the grey scale for assessing staining.

NOTE! In ISO 105-X18 it says that staining should be assessed, according to H&M’s definitions
(page 5) the result from this test is a colour change.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 49(62)

December 2010
13. Colour fastness to bleeding -jewellery and hair
accessories
13.1 Bleeding method
 Cut a piece of white rubbing fabric 200 X 200mm.
 Pour 500ml distilled water into a glass bowl.
 Put the hair accessory/jewellery into the water for 5 seconds and make sure it is
thoroughly soaked.
 Place the wet hair accessory/jewellery onto the white fabric and fold the fabric around
the item. If it is a terry band, wrap the terry band around the white fabric, just as you
wear it in your hair. See pictures below.
 Let it rest for 5 minutes – do not rub or wring - before unfolding/unwrapping.
 Let the fabric dry and then judge the stains according to the grey scale in the light box,
light source D65.

Hair accessory
 Put the hair accessory into the water
 Place the wet hair accessory onto the white fabric
 Fold the fabric around the accessory.

Terry band
 Put the terry band into the water.
 Wrap the terry band around the white fabric.

Jewellery
 Put the jewellery into the water
 Place the wet jewellery onto the white fabric
 Fold the fabric around the jewellery

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 50(62)

December 2010
14. Colour fastness to dry rubbing -small accessories
The H&M dry rubbing method for small accessories is based on ISO 105-X12. This dry rubbing
test should be used for small accessories not possible to test according to ISO 105-X12.

14.1 Dry rubbing method

 Fasten the specimen on the rubbing finger with the clamp or if it is too thick use a
rubber band. The specimen should be attached along the moving direction of the finger,
exception see pearls below.
 Fasten the cotton rubbing fabric 70x230mm well stretched on the baseboard of the
testing device.
 Rub 10 times, 1 time per second on the dry cotton rubbing fabric.

When testing multi-coloured textiles, take care to position the specimens in such a way that all
colours of the design are rubbed in the test. If the areas of colour are sufficiently large, more
test specimens may be taken and the individual colours assessed separately.

How to perform dry rubbing on different accessories

Hair band and decorations made of fabric, leather (flowers etc)

Perform a normal rubbing test on a piece of fabric approximately 50x50cm.

Mesh qualities
Alternative 1 - Stretch the fabric using double layers. Perform a normal rubbing test.
Alternative 2 - Cut loose single bands/threads to fasten to the rubbing finger. Use H&M
rubbing method.

Decoration bands for bows etc.

Alternative 1
Normal rubbing test using a board: Fasten a band minimum length 50cm lengthwise on a
board with tape or stapler according to below picture. Perform a normal rubbing test.
Alternative 2
Use H&M rubbing method by fasten the band on the moving finger.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 51(62)

December 2010
Terry band
Use H&M rubbing method. For plates and twisted bands it might be necessary to cut loose
single bands/threads to fasten to the rubbing finger.

Pearls
Use H&M rubbing method. The pearls should be placed on a metal thread. The metal thread
should be attached across the moving direction of the finger.

For irregular pearls, bones etc. that cannot be attached to the rubbing finger, the rubbing
finger should be detached. Estimate a force of 9 Newton (0,9kg) when rubbing the specimen.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 52(62)

December 2010
15. Conditioning test for stickers
Purpose: To check if the sticker remains properly on fabric during transport without causing
glue stains or colour change on fabric.

15.1 Sampling
All kind of stickers glued on textile products, for example size tape need to be tested.

15.2 Preparation of samples before sending

Size on fabric should be enough to attach all stickers, at least 30 cm x 20 cm.

Fabrics to be used for test:

Material Colour Fabric Number of stickers on Number of pcs

each fabric fabric
Cotton/cotton mix White Knitted 5 2
Cotton/cotton mix Dark Knitted 5 2
Cotton/cotton mix White Woven 5 2
Cotton/cotton mix Dark Woven 5 2
Synthetic White Knitted 5 2
Synthetic Dark Knitted 5 2
Synthetic White Woven 5 2
Synthetic Dark Woven 5 2

1. Attach the stickers on the fabrics.

2. Divide the fabric pieces into 2 piles.
3. Put the two sets in a box e.g. A4 paper box, (approx. 23x30x23cm). One set on bottom
level of box; and the other on upper level.
4. Some extra fabric in heavier quality, like canvas, can be put in between the two sets to fill
up the box.
5. Send the box to one of below ITS contacts.

Hong Kong Shanghai SZ ITS

ITS-HK ITS-SH Attn: Ms Cicy Tao
Attn: Ms Cody Yeung, Attn: Ms Jennifer Ren [email protected]
[email protected] [email protected] Tel: 86-755-26020071
Tel: 852-21738785 Tel: 86-21-61206060x2226

15.3 Test procedure

H&M method, the samples will be conditioned at a temperature of -25°C for 8 hours and then at a
temperature of 75°C, 95 % relative humidity for 16 hours.

One sticker on each fabric/product should be removed after 3rd, 7th and 10th day. The fabrics are
then evaluated according to the requirements.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 53(62)

December 2010
 16. Tear strength
Test method according ISO 13937-2
General: test should be performed before wash on woven textile fabrics.
Treated denim (scrapped or chemical treated) should be tested before and after 3 washing &
drying cycles.

16.1 Sampling for denim

Test treated and risky areas see examples below. 5 specimens in warp direction and 5
specimens in weft direction need to be tested. (Several samples might be needed).

Elbow part

Sit part

Front pocket/
mustasch part

Knee part

Sit part
Front pocket/
mustasch part

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 54(62)

December 2010
17. Abrasion resistance for socks and tights
Test should be performed according to EN 13770-1. After 5000 revolutions stop and evaluate
after each 1000 revolution.

17.1 Evaluation
Thinning shall be considered as endpoint.

18. Cold test

Winter products e.g. ski wear, children’s winter overalls

Place the product in a freezer -18°C ±2°C for 30 minutes. Evaluate the hand feel at once. The
fabric shall not become stiff and must not crack when bending.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 55(62)

December 2010
19. Reflector test
Test method according to EN13356

Reflective material
on children’s winter
overall

19.1 How to test reflective material attached to washable product

Please prepare samples according to below:
 Cut 2 pieces of the size 10x10cm of the reflective material.
 Cut 2 pieces of fabric size 40x40cm.
Quality according to standard: 65% polyester and 35% cotton. Weight: 230-250 g/m2.
Alternative: The fabric (or similar quality) to which the reflective material should be
sewn on.
 Sew the reflective materials onto the 40x40 cm fabrics.
 Mark each sample with O/N and how to wash according to care instructions of the
article (1 sample unwashed, 1 sample 5x washed & dried)
 Wash & dry the samples accordantly
 Send it to your local H&M office, who will forward it to SP – a test institute in Sweden -
for Photometric test.
 Test result in approximately 3 weeks

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 56(62)

December 2010
20. Wicking test
H&M method based on JIS L1907 Section 7.1.5 -vertical wicking

20.1 Test procedure

1. Cut 5 specimens in each direction, all measuring 200mm X 25mm.

2. Fold each specimen end and secure it on a

rod or pen using a needle or a clip.

3. Place the rod over the opening of a glass

bowl, so the specimen hangs in the bowl
without touching the bottom.

4. Fill the bowl with water till the specimen is

immersed 20mm in the water.

5. Leave the specimen for 30 minutes.

6. After 30 minutes measure how high the water

has moved, starting 20mm from the edge (The
point which was the starting point for the
wicking).

If reaching the requirement before 30 minutes it is ok to

stop the test and report the result as Ok. The average
result from the 5 specimen is the final result.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 57(62)

December 2010
21. Drop test performance (for accessories)
Purpose: To detect that weak parts do not break, crack or fall off.

Test method: H&M test method

What must be tested: Following items must pass the drop test:

o All earrings
o Bags with plastic handles, frames or other plastic details.
o Hair claws, hair clips and flamingos made in plastic.
o Alice bands made of plastic
o Bangles made of plastic

Risk assessment: We recommend performing drop test on all accessories with

combined material and with soldered parts to check they
won’t break during the drop test. They should pass to be
dropped twice (2). This will be a tool to detect if some parts
need or can be improved before production.

Exceptions: Due to weak material, following items are excepted from the drop
test:
o Wood
o Shell
o Bone
o Horn
o Resin material
o Gift boxes made of plastic

Sample arrangement: 5 samples should be tested. No hangtags attached to the sample

when tested.

Evaluation: There should be no cracks or broken parts after test.

All five samples must be OK.
If one fail = test five more.

Method: Drop the accessory 5 times from a height of 150 cm.

Make sure you have a fixed place where you make the tests in
order to be able to compare the results.
The floor covering should be made of ceramic tile (same as in
our shops), and a tape measure of 150cm should be permanently
placed on the wall.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 58(62)

December 2010
Examples of items that must pass the drop test

All types of bags with plastic handles, frames

er plastic details.

All types of hair claws, hair clips and

flamingos made in plastic.

All types of narrow or wide alice bands made

in plastic.

Alice bands with attachments.

All types of narrow or wide bangles made in

plastic material.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 59(62)

December 2010
All belts which have buckles made in plastic.

Examples of items that can not be tested due to weak material

All kind of ear rings, bracelets and necklaces

made in wood cannot be tested.

All kind of ear rings, bracelets and necklaces

made in bone, horn or resin material
cannot be tested.

All kinds of ear rings, bracelets & necklaces

made of shell material cannot be tested.

Gift boxes in plastic will not have to be

tested.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 60(62)

December 2010
Recommended risk assessment – should pass to be dropped twice (2).

Elastic bracelets with big stones.

If the elastic breaks during the drop test, the
elastic must be changed to a better quality.

Necklaces and bracelets with all kinds of

big stones. If the stones break during the
drop test, the tunnel for the thread might be
too big which makes the stone weak.

Ear rings, bracelets and necklaces which

are combined with several material.
If any parts break during the drop test,
improvements need to done before
production.

Jewellery with soldered parts.

If they break during the drop test you must
improve the soldering.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 61(62)

December 2010
Decoration with soldered parts.
If any parts break during drop test,
improvements should be considered before
production.

Decoration with surface coating.

If surface coating gets destroyed during drop
test improvements should be considered
before production.

H&M Supplier Lab Manual 62(62)

December 2010