Delicious UK - October 2020 PDF
Delicious UK - October 2020 PDF
Delicious UK - October 2020 PDF
YOU’LL MEATBALL BIRYANI l GIANT JAFFA CAKE l JOHN WHAITE’S MOLASSES CHICKEN WINGS
LOVE
deliciousmagazine.co.uk
MARY BERRY’S
LAID-BACK
SUNDAY ROAST
FISH PIE
MASTERCLASS
With expert chef
Calum Franklin
BOSH!
THE HIT DUO’S
TOP VEGAN
DINNERS
EASY AND
THRIFTY
Midweek specials
from the
storecupboard
PLUS...
PE A R, M A PL E
WHY FOOD
SNOBBERY HAS &C A L VA D OS
HAD ITS DAY
CUST A R D TA R T
Game
changer.
We do meat-free like no other.
This. Changes. Everything. Our new plant-based range is all you love about meat: without the meat. It tastes
absolutely delicious; you still get that familiar meat texture and it’s wonderfully succulent. Not only that, it counts
as one of your five a day, is high in fibre and is a natural source of protein. It’s another revolution in
naturally tasty food from us. And a game changer for those wanting to go meat-free now and again.
sadness that she never got to know what I do for a living), but my younger brother
and I yearned for treats we’d only rarely been allowed when Mum was alive.
Sometimes we ate that fake-lemony pie filling from the pan as we sat on the sofa
watching The Generation Game. On p14, Debora Robertson muses on reports
that sales of old-school mixes have been soaring. Could it be to do with the comfort
I sought back in the 1970s? Maybe. But there’s surely more to it than that,
and I seize on any sign that, as Debora sees it, food elitism might be on the wane.
I’m not suggesting we all start tearing open packets because, with the right
recipes, you can achieve simplicity, contentment and warmth almost as easily
with fresh ingredients. Mo y in these pages as
the nights draw in. Happy
58 88 6
OC TOBER 2020
ON THE COVER
CONTENTS YOUR RECIPE INSPIR ATION 96 INTRODUCING... THE GIANT JAFFA CAKE
Greedy family? Best keep it locked up
6 HELLO, OCTOBER
Did someone say salted toffee apples?
Start the Halloween party!
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT
50 FISH PIE MASTERCLASS 8 YOUR delicious.
Calum Franklin, pie-meister supreme, What you’re cooking and debating, plus
presents a classic, plus two twists your online favourites
50 24
Fresh eggs for our test
kitchen are supplied
by Clarence Court
clarencecourt.co.uk and
meat is from The Ginger
Pig thegingerpig.co.uk
Salted toffee apples apple through the core at the stem Find more
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
PLUS 30 MIN SETTING
with a skewer or twig, then set aside.
2 Put the caster sugar, white wine OCTOBER
Keep the toffee apples in a
vinegar, unsalted butter, golden
syrup and 150ml cold water in a
INSPIRATION
MAKE cool place for up to 2 days,
AHEAD heavy-based pan over a low heat, ONLINE
covered with baking paper. stirring until the butter has melted Search for these recipes at
and the sugar is fully dissolved. deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 8 small red eating apples 3 Turn up the heat to medium-high
• 500g caster sugar and bubble until the mixture turns
• 2 tsp white wine vinegar deep golden (or until a sugar or Bramble & bay baked
• 50g unsalted butter digital probe thermometer reaches camembert
• 1 tbsp golden syrup 140°C) – about 15 minutes. Take the
• 2 tbsp single cream pan off the heat, then very carefully E A S Y S WA P
• ½ tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra stir in the cream and sea salt flakes. Try substituting
the camembert
4 Dip each apple in the toffee mix, with British
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… using the skewer/twig to turn it to tunworth. You
• 8 wooden skewers, chopsticks fully coat. Put the coated apples on can find it at larger
or cleaned twigs from the garden the prepared baking tray, sprinkle Waitrose stores
or at British
(pictured); baking tray lined with with a little extra sea salt, then cheesemongers
compostable baking paper leave for at least 30 minutes to set and delis, or
(see Make Ahead). order online
from paxtonand
USEFUL TO HAVE PER SERVING 265kcals, 4.6g fat (2.8g
whitfield.co.uk.
Digital probe/sugar thermometer saturated), 0.6g protein, 54.9g carbs
(54.9g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1.2g fibre
1 Wash the apples thoroughly and pat See Loose Ends (p46) for ideas
dry with kitchen paper. Pierce each to use up single cream Sausage & cider casserole
with apples and sage
E A S Y S WA P S
Chocolate honeycomb until the mixture forms a This one-pot is
a seasonal
crunch smooth, golden caramel. standby and a
SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, Remove from the heat, stir great way to use
PLUS COOLING AND SETTING in 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda up apples. Ring
(the mixture will foam up) and the changes
by swapping
Keep in an airtight pour into the prepared tin. Set the sage for fresh
MAKE container for up aside for 30 minutes to harden. rosemary or
AHEAD
to 2 days – the Meanwhile, melt 250g chopped thyme, or replace
the apples with
honeycomb will turn sticky dark chocolate in a heatproof
pears or quince.
if it’s not kept in a dry place. bowl set over a pan of
simmering water (don’t let the
YOU’LL NEED… bowl touch the water). Stir
• 20cm x 30cm tin lined with until smooth, cool slightly, then Chicken supremes with wild
compostable baking paper pour it over the honeycomb mushrooms & tarragon sauce
(this should overhang the tin (tilt the tin to spread it out).
on all sides) Sprinkle over 4 chopped E A S Y S WA P
RECIPES: VALLI LITTLE. PHOTOGRAPH: JEREMY SIMONS
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 7
YOUR delicious. SUBJECT: DELICIOUS.
PREDICTS THE FUTURE!
WELL, SORT OF...
FROM: PAMELA HUGHSON
Our Italian escape Leafing through my
delicious. magazines,
this page [below] from
STAR EMAIL the December 2019 issue
FROM: NICOLA struck a chord. How
The last 12 months have been prophetic those words
particularly stressful for our family. at the top were: we
Our critically ill son was have all cooked more,
hospitalised but he received experimented more, been
amazing care and responded well horrified when flour
to the medications and treatments. disappeared from the
We were ahead of the game in shelves – and as for yeast...
thanking and praising the NHS! Five months on,
*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P108
His results at the start of shopping has calmed and
2020 were good, so we we can make the recipes
booked a family break we want. For me, baking
in Milan to celebrate and has been a way of
relax a little. Obviously, ‘vintage’ delicious. thanking our neighbours
it was soon clear Milan magazines and found an who shopped for us. We
wasn’t going to be Italian special issue... would let them know what
visited. We know Squash risotto, chocolate was on the menu on
everyone has missed out mousse, biscotti, roast a Friday from ‘The Hoose
on events, holidays, pork, polenta, gnocchi, Bakery’ (my husband is a
weddings and so many ravioli, antipasti and so Scot) for click and collect!
things and we’re acutely aware we on… We brought Italy to our Wishing you all a safe
have so much to be grateful for, but garden in Perthshire and the sun future and thank you for
as our ‘holiday’ date approached shone for us too. I was so busy keeping me up to scratch
I felt we still should do something... cooking (and washing up!) that my baking different goodies.
I borrowed Italian cookbooks mind didn’t have time to dwell
from friends and raided my own, on things. Thank you for playing
but nothing piqued my interest your part in our special stay-at-
until I looked at my shelf of home weekend.
ONLINE
THIS
MONTH
GET SPOOKY IN
THE KITCHEN
Meringue ghosts, spiderweb cakes,
pumpkin soup and cheesy savoury
skulls… Find a frighteningly good
array of treats for 31 October at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/halloweenrecipes
HA
AVE YOUR SAY…
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S
SUBJECT: I PINE
FFOR OPINION
FFROM: ROSIE WHAT
W
When I received YOU’VE
tthe September
magazine, I eagerly
m BEEN
flipped to the last
fl
page for the
p
OOKING
opinion piece, as
o
I mostly do. I say Randi used her sourdough
mostly because
m starter (called Bubbles) to
ssometimes, when
make sourdough pizzas
from the August issue [p92].
I know I have time to sit and read @stillkay_ “I couldn’t figure out how
the mag from cover to cover, I save justbetter dunked to work this ‘wet’ dough
the last page until, well, last – like some crudités into into pizzas, but your article
leaving the crispiest roast potato for August’s lemony saved the day. I had to fight
a treat at the end of a Sunday roast. white bean and to get a picture before the
Please let this be a pause rather
garlic dip [p68]. pizzas were wolfed down.”
“Found the perfect
than a stop to the back-page opinion alternative to
piece. I don’t always agree with it hummus
mmus.”
but I do always enjoy reading it.
• Would you like to see a return of the
‘A good rant’ feature? Let us know at
[email protected]. While
you’re at it, we’d love to hear from
you about what you’d like to see in
delicious. Write, or join our reader
“My disco dancers
panel – see details, bottom left. celebrated their
return to school” Now her children are
back at school, Jo u
used
Jenny O’Brien wrote to tell us
about a favourite kitchen tip their cookie cutter
ers to
jazz up her beef an
When I finish a jar of sun-dried
mushroom pies
tomatoes, olives or anchovies, I [Sep, p27] with “disco
save the oil to make salad dressings dancing divas – they
or add to pasta sauce. Anchovy oil tasted fantastic too”.
is great for frying onions and mince
– it takes shepherd’s pie to the next
Juli made Skye
level. It’s a fab way to make these
Mc lpine’s easy
expensive ingredients last longer – Aphrodite’s roast chicken
plus, no risk of blocking [Aug, p17]. “On a lazy
your
y sink with too Sunday, I wanted
much oil. a chicken roast dinner
but couldn’t muster
the energy – this is the
solution. I know Skye’s
book is about cooking for
friends but I prefer to
keep this one to myself!”
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[email protected] ake your own version of any recipe from our
CONTRIBUTORS October issue, share a picture with us and you
Susy Atkins Wine editor could win the ultimate baking kit from Stellar.
Lucas Hollweg, Gill Meller, Sue Quinn, Debora Robertson This baker’s dream bundle is chock-full of useful tools
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Jake Hopkins Production director
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Adam Wright Finance manager 01733 373135 AUGUST’S WINNER
[email protected] • Shannon
Dickson wins a
delicious. magazine is published under licence from News Life Media by Eye to Eye glorious hamper
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packed with
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to Eye Media Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without afternoon treats
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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11
And now for...
Rescue…
A PUMPKIN
We might be used to seeing them
smiling (albeit grotesquely), but
Halloween can be a frightful time
for pumpkins, with an estimated
15 million carved but not eaten. The
facts are scary: only half of those
polled in 2016 saw Halloween
pumpkins as food, and seven in
1
10 carved pumpkins were chucked
– enough to make a bowl of pumpkin
soup for everyone in the UK!
Truth is, pumpkins bred for carving
can be watery, but you can enjoy
their tastier if knobblier cousins.
SCANDINAVIAN GREEN
From celeriac schnitzel in winter
to wild garlic pancakes in spring,
Danish chef and prolific cookbook
author Trine Hahnemann captures
the magic of seasonal eating with
ideas for getting more plants on
Read…
your plate.
Out 15 Oct; Quadrille £26
ALL ABOUT IT
A new wave of e-newsletters is bringing some TOWPATH: RECIPES AND STORIES
fresh food writing to your inbox. Start with the The al fresco Towpath Café on
twice-weekly Vittles, edited by Jonathan Nunn. Hackney’s Regent’s Canal is an
Launched in March as a lockdown project, insiders’ favourite for its waterside
it’s covered subjects as diverse as home- ambience and wholesome, seasonal
fermenting projects and first-hand accounts food. Get the vibe at home with Laura
from frontline food workers, as well as essays on Jackson’s recipes and Lori De Mori’s
observing Ramadan in the Covid era, the dark atmospheric words.
side of food delivery apps and the joys of Turkish Chelsea Green Publishing £27
supermarkets. Nearly 100 writers have
contributed, some published for the first time. PARWANA
Providing a steady diet of under-documented Durkhanai Ayubi explores
foods, from Indonesian sambal to instant noodles, Afghanistan’s diverse cultural
Vittles also considers inequalities head-on. history and challenges received
Campaigning food writer Melissa Thompson wisdom in this stunning book,
highlights the scarcity of Black talent given the tracing her family’s journey to their
spotlight in the food industry, and Jonathan Nunn Adelaide-based Afghan restaurant,
explores bias in UK restaurant reviewing (20 per Parwana. Recipes are by her
cent of reviews in the national media are for mother, Farida. Murdoch Books £20
restaurants in Chelsea or Mayfair). Vital reading. BOOK
vittles.substack.com; subscribe for free – donations
OF THE
are encouraged to fund writers’ fees; pay £4 a month
MONTH
for an extra weekly article from Jonathan
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 13
Is this the
end of food
snobbery?
T
his has been the most we weren’t doing our own hair, things, visit new restaurants and
contradictory year. It will it seems we were baking). explore cultures that are unfamiliar
be remembered as the one to me through their food traditions,
when we cherished our homes COMFORT SHOPPING sometimes I get tired. I get tired of
and yearned to get out of them, Of all the things that garnered the way that, instead of being about
loved our families but sometimes attention on my own slightly pleasure, food is often used as a
couldn’t wait to escape from them, shambolic Instagram account social signifier: a way of denoting
embraced technology and grew (follow me @lickedspoon, I’m class and sophistication, a way to
exhausted by the work-from-home needy), it wasn’t the warm squid get one over on another person –
tyranny it imposed. It’s the one and potato salad or the canard aux it’s one-upmanship with knife and
where we dressed smartly from cerises but the corned beef pie made fork. But you know what? Take a
the waist up, in pyjamas from the to my Auntie Louie’s recipe circa seat for a minute, Lady Judgment.
waist down. We cut our own hair, 1968 that drew the most admiring, We are all weary, and sometimes
did our own colour and just got on madeleine-moment responses. what we really want is trifle from
with it as best we could – all the Of course, some of this is easy to a packet, if that’s okay with you?
working, the disinfecting and the explain away. At a time when we Of course it’s more important
home-schooling, plus the jigsaws, were all limiting how often we went than ever for us to know where our
needlepoint and gardening we to the supermarket and making the food comes from and how it’s been
slotted into the space where our
social lives used to be. Food is often used as a social signifier:
For some, ‘as best we could’
involved nurturing kimchi and
a way of denoting class and sophistication,
tending sourdough starters as a way to get one over on another person –
though they were the most precious it’s one-upmanship with knife and fork
of newborns. When it comes to all
this, I’m as bad as anyone, but most of any grocery delivery slots grown and reared – if nothing
sometimes these fancy-pants-in- we might be able to get our hands else, these past months have shown
a-crisis ways will catch you out. On on, it made sense to stock up on us how we must cherish and do
the hottest day of the year, one of food with a long shelf life. everything we can to preserve
our bottles of homemade kombucha But it’s about more than that. our own good health. But the
exploded all over the kitchen. It had When we reached for or clicked on levels of culinary show-offery,
had enough. We’d all had enough. Smash and packet trifle, we were the exhausting, relentless,
But for many, according to a choosing foods that reminded us of performative, Instagrammable
shopping report the Co-op carried a time when possibly life felt safer perfection of so much we once
out with 2,000 of its customers, the and more certain, more optimistic, aspired to achieve in the kitchen
foods we craved this year were ones than it does now. When I look at now feels – to me at least – slightly
that would have fitted quite happily the list of old-turned-new out of touch with the times.
in our parents’ or grandparents’ favourites, it reminds me of Sunday Let people love what they love.
shopping baskets in the 1970s and afternoons at my grandmother’s Of course, all of us flipping through
1980s. Sales of Smash instant mash house. Admittedly, she was a these wonderful pages crave
went up by 59 per cent, corned beef terrible cook – but she was beautiful, seasonal, carefully made
was up 90 per cent, tinned fish sales a wonderful person, and my and interesting food, but sometimes
soared six-fold, packet trifles went memories of time spent with her you just want Salad Cream on your
up seven-fold, and jelly and Bird’s are very happy ones. We knitted, salad rather than a homemade
custard powder sales trebled. we sewed, she recited huge chunks vinaigrette made with single-estate
Tinned fruit got a boost too, with of Shakespeare from memory, we cold-pressed oil from the left-hand
pineapple-ring sales three and made packet trifle and cheesecake side of the olive grove – and that
a half times bigger than normal. from a box, and Sunday lunch was is absolutely fine. Right now,
This doesn’t surprise me, given the always followed by tinned fruit whatever you need to help you
ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES
frequency with which I have seen salad with condensed milk. get by, to improve your state of
that retro charmer, the pineapple calm, to cheer yourself up, seems
upside-down cake, showing up ARE WE JUST WHAT WE EAT? all right with me.
on my Instagram feed (no news on What we eat is about more than The heart wants what it wants,
glâcé cherries, but I’m sure they physical nourishment. While I love and if sometimes that’s Bird’s custard
have also seen a rise in sales – if to cook, shop for food, try new and jelly, knock yourself out.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 15
ONE VISION, 11 YEARS,
540 ORCHARDS
Imagine if everyone lived in walking distance of fresh apples, pears and plums to pick. That,
along with a reinvigoration of the UK’s orchard heritage, is the inspiring goal of visionary
charity The Orchard Project and it’s having a remarkable effect on volunteers’ wellbeing
WORDS: LAURA DAY. PHOTOGRAPHS: THE ORCHARD PROJECT, HOLLY PICKERING, TOM BROADHEAD
In 2009, sustainable food advocate Glasgow and Edinburgh. This there are enough people who want
Carina Millstone envisaged a autumn, they’ll open the first Welsh to be involved, the charity works
London blooming with fruit trees. office in Swansea. with the community to design and
Inspired by the legacy of the plane The aim of The Orchard Project is plant the orchard (five or more fruit
trees, planted en masse in the city by for every home in every UK city to trees are classed as an orchard). It
the Victorians, Carina believed fruit be within walking distance of a also runs workshops for people to
trees could have the same long- community-run orchard. Building learn key skills such as pruning,
lasting impact for people living in a network of orchards – by restoring disease control and cider making;
urban areas. With entrepreneur old ones and planting new ones – there’s even an accredited course in
Rowena Ganguli, Carina founded requires willing hands and managing community orchards.
The London Orchard Project to available land. “We do outreach “The idea is that it’s not our
help the city’s communities create work, or communities approach us orchard, it’s their orchard,” says
orchards, preserve heritage skills because they want to plant trees in Abby. “The community takes
and celebrate home-grown fruit. their area,” explains Abby Cremin, responsibility for caring for it long
Head of Operations and term. Our job is to give them the
THE MISSION Programmes. “It could be on tools and support they need to keep
The initiative soon grew into The a housing estate, in a local park – or caring for the trees over the years.”
Orchard Project charity and reached just a patch of unused green space.” In just over a decade, The Orchard
Birmingham, Manchester, Leeds, If the funding pot allows and Project has restored and planted
16 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
making a difference.
540 orchards in England and has kept in touch via online how to graft an apple tree is quite a FRUITFUL
ENDEAVOUR,
Scotland, and has helped preserve sessions including wellbeing classes rare skill, as is being able to identify
FROM LEFT
forgotten British apple varieties, and mindfulness drawing. the hundreds of different apples – Lizzie Pegler,
such as the hounslow wonder. It’s not many people in the UK can do The Orchard
not just about apples – plums, pears, WHY IT MATTERS that,” says Abby. There are Project’s chief
Since the charity’s inception, it has cider maker,
apricots and figs are grown too, and environmental benefits too, from helped by Lewis
community diversity is reflected engaged 60,000 people in orchard reducing the air miles fruit travels McNeill (centre),
in the choice of fruit, which Abby activities, grown over 2.3 million to creating habitats for wildlife. turns surplus
says can often be quite tropical. apples and helped produce over Abby is proud that the project apples into juice
1,880 tonnes per year of fresh fruit and cider using a
“Sometimes it might be about has helped preserve many of the traditional cloth-
where people come from. They want for local communities. It has also UK’s orchards for future and-rack press;
something that launched its own juice generations. “We’ve lost so many of planting new
and cider enterprise trees will create
reminds them of our heritage orchards over the
orchards for
what fruit trees “95% of using surplus fruit years. There was a huge variety of generations
from London trees.
were growing volunteers say Funds raised from
different types of apple planted,” to come
where they used she explains, adding that the range
to live.”
the project helps sales are returned found in commercial orchards
Outside the them feel more to the orchards in tends to be limited. “People enjoy
autumn and connected to the shape of tools learning about what the local
winter harvest, the or skills training. varieties would have been, trying
charity runs related
nature” But the value the different types and saving
activities and events. of this work goes those orchards.”
“Orchards have their beyond what happens on the There’s a long way to go before
seasonality, which ground. According to the charity’s we can all pick an apple on our
creates the opportunity to latest impact report, 86 per cent of doorstep, but with every orchard
bring people together to celebrate its beneficiaries say being involved planted, it feels that bit closer.
everything that orchards have to in orchards has improved their “People treasure turning a barren
give,” says Abby. Typical events are physical and mental wellbeing; 95 piece of land into something
blossom picnics, bio blitzes (that’s per cent of volunteers say it helps valuable. That’s special.”
a bug hunt) and apple days that them feel more connected to nature
celebrate the harvest with and green spaces; and 34 per cent HOW YOU CAN HELP To find out more
community-made food. Covid-19 have found employment with related about The Orchard Project and to
has made these events harder, but skills gained through the charity’s donate or become a member, visit
throughout lockdown, the charity training programmes. “Knowing theorchardproject.org.uk
EDITOR’S CHOICE
Food by mail order, attractive things for your home + general good stuff you need to know about
Karen Barnes’
highlights this
month include
handmade pasta,
banana peel rum
and discounts
just for you
BEST BUY
UNDER £10
This colourful vessel – Turned turn-ons
more of a storage basket, Ever on the lookout for artisan-made curios,
really – is handmade by
I spotted a mention of Cornish Woodsmith on
women in Bangladesh
from tightly woven
Instagram @cornishwoodsmith, investigated and
recycled saris and it’s loved what I saw. Craftsman Dominic Pearce,
beautiful, as well as being keen to preserve traditional crafts, works with
sturdy, with a thick jute foraged and storm-damaged wood. His carved
base. Use for storage, for bowls are almost too good to use, but I will – and
a plant or even as a small
I’ll be buying more for gifts. Keep an eye on
wastepaper basket.
£9.99 from Oxfam stores
cornishwoodsmith.com for new creations.
From £25 for a bowl; cornishwoodsmith.com
and oxfam.org.uk
18 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
wish list.
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This month
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um, part of the new
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HURRAHS FOR JARS 2020 using the code CARE15 when you check
October is my month for reorganisation – time to retreat out at formanandfield.com
indoors, pare down and impose order. Robert Welch is
renowned for quality kit, and its new Signature storage
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guarantee. robertwelch.com (free delivery over £75)
How many times have you
dreamed of jacking it all
in to have an adventure
abroad – to live, work or just
to dive into another culture?
American writer Bill Buford
has done just that with wife Jesssica, who
(luckily) shares his wanderlust.
First came a stint in Italy, then they uprooted from
the US and moved to France, this time with two-year-
old twins in tow, where Buford was set on becoming
a chef – no matter that he couldn’t speak French.
Dirt tells the story of Bill’s determination to master
cooking techniques in the gastronomic city of Lyon,
where only perfection will do. Along the way he works
in high-end kitchens, seeks advice from characters
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an intense pace – and isn’t afraid to fail. Buford has an
inexhaustible zest for life; the book is a tour de force.
20 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
TRUE SIMPLICITY
Our eggs are patiently laid by traditional breed birds originating from rare breed ancestors.
It’s our heritage that gives them their unique flavour. Demand the best - look for the crown.
clarencecourt.co.uk
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for the period comprising 52 weeks ending on 14th September 2019
EAT WELL
THRIFTY STORECUPBOARD MEALS 24 l BEHIND THE HEADLINES ON HERBAL TEAS 34 l QUICK VEGAN DINNERS
FROM BOSH! 36 l TIPS AND TRICKS FROM OUR TEST KITCHEN 44 l EXCLUSIVE OFFER ON KITCHEN GEAR 48
ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
MIDWEEK MAGIC
COOK, SWAP,
SAVE!
Family friendly meals from storecupboard staples and fresh, easily swappable
ingredients: these seven recipes keep the pennies in check while getting a big
thumbs-up from those at your table. That’s what we call savvy cooking
RECIPES JULES MERCER FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND STYLING DAVINA PERKINS
eat well every day.
FRESH
TAKE ON
HALLOUMI
SALAD DAYS
Halloumi and charred
hispi cabbage with
beetroot and tahini slaw
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 25
Pan-fried fish with pea
guacamole and smashed
EASY FISH new potatoes
SUPPER SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
FOR 4 OVEN TIME 35 MIN
26 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
eat well every day.
SIMPLE
PLEASURES
Roasted cherry
tomato and
tarragon
spaghetti
PASTA
PRONTO
HIGH IN
OMEGA-3s &
VITAMIN D
Sardine fishcakes with • 225g vine-ripened cherry tomatoes into 12 balls and flatten each into
chilli corn salsa • 2 tbsp olive oil a patty about 3cm thick.
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, • 1 red chilli (seeds removed), 3 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
OVEN TIME 25 MIN finely chopped gas 7. Beat the egg in a bowl, then
• Large handful fresh basil, finely spread the breadcrumbs on a large
• 500g floury potatoes (such as chopped, with some leaves left plate. Dip each patty into the egg,
maris piper or king edward), whole to serve then the breadcrumbs to coat
peeled and quartered and set on a lined baking tray.
• 2 x 120g tins sardines in tomato 1 Put the potatoes in a steamer set Drizzle the sunflower oil over the
E A S Y S WA P S sauce, drained (see Easy Swaps) over a pan of boiling water and fishcakes, then bake for 25 minutes
Sardines are
sustainable, full • 6 spring onions, finely chopped steam for about 15 minutes until until golden brown.
of flavour and • Finely grated zest and juice cooked through. Remove from the 4 Meanwhile, mix all the salsa
packed with a
good dose of 1 lemon, plus wedges to serve heat and leave to cool slightly ingredients together and season
omega 3s. If • 1 medium free-range egg before mashing with a fork in well. Serve the fishcakes with the
you still can’t • 50g panko or other dried a large mixing bowl. salsa, basil leaves and lemon
convince picky
eaters, swap breadcrumbs 2 Mash the drained sardines into wedges for squeezing over.
the tinned fish • 6 tbsp sunflower oil the potatoes along with the spring PER SERVING 520kcals, 31g fat
for roasted veg onions, lemon zest and juice, (5.1g saturated), 18.3g protein,
and some grated
cheddar. FOR THE CHILLI CORN SALSA then season well with salt and 39.8g carbs (7.2g sugars), 0.7g salt,
• 198g tin sweetcorn, drained freshly ground black pepper. Divide 4.4g fibre →
eat well every day.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 29
TASTE THE ADVENTURE
Here at Glorious! we love taking your taste buds on a
foodie adventure through fresh flavours,
packed with nutritious ingredients.
Visit gloriousfoods.co.uk
to view our fresh soup range and where to buy.
@glorious_foods
eat well every day.
Bacon-wrapped
chicken with roast
caponata
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
OVEN TIME 35 MIN
• 8 British outdoor-reared
streaky bacon rashers
• 8 small free-range skinless,
boneless chicken thighs (see
Easy Swaps)
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 31
eat well every day.
• 1 white hispi, pointed or sweetheart • 4 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp sunflower oil
cabbage, quartered • 1 onion, finely chopped • 400g outdoor-reared free-range pork
• 3 tbsp olive oil • 1 garlic clove, sliced fillet, sliced (see Easy Swaps)
• 400g halloumi, sliced • 1 cinnamon stick • 3cm piece fresh ginger, grated
• 1 large ripe avocado, sliced • 2 red peppers, deseeded and chopped • 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 400g tin black-eyed beans, rinsed and • 6 spring onions, finely sliced
FOR THE SLAW drained (see Easy Swaps) • ½ small pineapple, peeled and
• 1 banana shallot or small red onion, • 400g tin chopped tomatoes chopped into small 1cm pieces
finely sliced into wedges • 150g sugar snap peas • 2 x 250g pre-cooked basmati rice
• Finely grated zest and juice 1 lime, • Small handful dill, chopped, to garnish pouches
plus wedges to serve • 4 tbsp sweet soy sauce (or use regular
• 4 tbsp natural yogurt (or crème fraîche) FOR THE DUMPLINGS or low-salt soy sauce)
• 2 tbsp tahini (see Easy Swaps) • 110g self-raising flour • 3 tbsp sesame oil
• Small handful fresh mint leaves, • 1 medium courgette (200g), grated • Large handful coriander, chopped,
roughly chopped, plus extra to garnish • 140g feta, crumbled (vegetarian, if plus extra leaves to serve
• 4 small raw beetroot, scrubbed and needs be) • Grated zest and juice 1 lime, plus extra
sliced into rounds wedges to serve
• 400g tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1 Heat the oil in a casserole and fry the • Steamed pak choi to serve
onion for about 8 minutes until softening.
1 Mix the shallot/onion and lime juice for Add the garlic and cook for a further 1 Heat the oil in a wok and fry the pork
the slaw in a non-metallic bowl and set minute. Add the cinnamon and peppers until just browned, then add the ginger
aside to pickle while the cabbage cooks. and cook for 5 minutes more. and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Remove
2 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. 2 Tip in the beans and chopped tomatoes, from the pan and set aside.
Put the cabbage wedges on a baking tray, then rinse the tomato tin with 150ml 2 In the same pan, cook the spring
drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil, then roast for water and stir into the beans. Season. onions and pineapple for 2 minutes over
10 minutes until just charred. Set aside. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer. a high heat, then turn off the heat.
3 Drain the shallot/onion, keeping the 3 Meanwhile, mix the flour, courgette, Return the pork, ginger and garlic
liquid, and set aside. Mix together the feta and some seasoning in a large mixing mixture along with any juices to the pan.
remaining slaw ingredients with the bowl. Add a few tablespoons of water 3 Microwave the rice pouches according
pickling liquid and some seasoning. and use your hands to bring the mixture to the pack instructions. Add to the pan
4 Just before serving, heat the remaining together so the courgette releases its with the soy sauce, sesame oil, chopped
oil in a frying pan over a medium-high own juice. Roll the dough into walnut- coriander and lime juice and zest. Serve
heat and fry the halloumi for 1-2 minutes size balls (around 9-12), then set aside. with steamed pak choi and lime wedges
on each side until golden and crisp. 4 Add the sugar snaps to the stew, for squeezing over.
5 Divide the slaw between serving arrange the dumplings on top, then cover PER SERVING 529kcals, 20.2g fat (3.9g
plates, arrange the hot halloumi on top with a lid or a sheet of foil and cook for saturated), 28g protein, 57.3g carbs
with the cabbage, shallot/onion, sliced 15 minutes until the dumplings have (13.4g sugars), 2.5g salt, 3g fibre
avocado and remaining mint, with lime risen and are cooked through. Sprinkle
wedges on the side for squeezing. with dill and serve.
PER SERVING 714kcals, 47.6g fat (20.7g PER SERVING 438kcals, 19.5g fat (6.7g E A S Y S WA P S
This would work just as well
saturated), 31.5g protein, 33.5g carbs saturated), 17.1g protein, 44.3g carbs with chicken or turkey mince.
(12.8g sugars), 2.6g salt, 13g fibre (12.2g sugars), 1.2g salt, 8.4g fibre For a vegan/veggie supper,
substitute strips of tofu.
E A S Y S WA P S E A S Y S WA P S
If you haven’t got any tahini, Use any tinned beans you like for
use a few splashes of sesame oil this butterbeans would work NEXT MONTH
or some peanut butter instead. especially well. Inspiring weeknight ideas
from Clodagh McKenna
32 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Exquisite
by nature
Meet new Gourmet Nature’s Creations,
a delectable luxury meal range made
especially for your feline foodie
A
s someone who relishes the
finest seasonal ingredients WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
and exciting recipes that Discover Gourmet Nature’s Creations,
are cooked to perfection, you can the new cat food range inspired by nature.
appreciate just how much joy great Featuring slow-cooked mini fillets, product
food can spark in someone. Who highlights include:
says cats don’t feel the same way?
If your furry friend is a fussy eater, Gourmet Nature’s Creations Fish, which
you already know they do. offers a choice of succulent Rich in
Enter tasty Gourmet Nature’s OceanFish and Rich in Tuna – both are
Creations. A collection of expertly garnished with selected natural ingredients.
cooked recipes made with high-
quality selected natural Gourmet Nature’s Creations Poultry
ingredients, the tempting meals presents your cat with tender Rich in
are rich in poultry or fish. Plus, Chicken and Rich in Turkey, both of
you won’t find any added which also come with garnishes.
artificial colourants, flavourings
or preservatives in there either.
Each recipe is so carefully
crafted, it will make even the
most discerning cat savour every
bite with pleasure and purr with
delight. That’s why it’s time to
treat your kitty to the best food
inspired by nature. Gourmet
Nature’s Creations is available
at supermarkets and pet
stores nationwide.
®
Reg. Trademark of Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.
BEHIND THE HEADLINES
T
he herbal tea aisle looks choice. “The benefits of herbal tea
more like a health and might convince you to quit coffee:
wellness centre than everything from your skin to your
a section of the supermarket these stress levels can improve”, states
days. The manufacturers would like one. Another says: “Get glowing
us to think these drinks can do us skin with these herbal teas”.
good – a lot of good. With the global One widely shared Facebook post
market for caffeine-free hot drinks (quickly rejected by scientists and
predicted to be worth £3.3 billion doctors) even claimed that some
by 2025, the world’s food and drink herbal teas’ ‘anti-viral’ properties
giants have could protect
joined the herbal There’s never a against COVID-19.
tea charge. Can we believe
Industry quantified dose on the any of the herbal
analysts report packet. Herbal tea tea hype?
that new flavours
with ‘mildly
seems to get away SOME BENEFITS
stimulating with vague claims Some people may
effects and get some benefit
medicinal properties’ are driving from drinking types of herbal tea,
the trend. Blends of different says registered nutritionist Dr
herbs offering ‘multiple health Laura Wyness. Camomile tea, for
benefits’ are the most sought after, example, is well known for aiding
followed by ginger, camomile relaxation and sleep, and it also has
and cinnamon. Infusions designed antispasmodic properties that may
specifically with the wellbeing of ease menstrual cramps. The
women in mind are also on the rise. menthol in peppermint tea can act
The boom is supported by as a muscle relaxant and help aid
wellness websites and blogs saying digestion and dispel gas. And
that the antioxidants in herbal teas ginger tea may help with digestive
– substances that can help protect issues, nausea and period pain.
the body against disease – make There’s no scientific proof they work,
them the healthiest hot drink however. “As long as you don’t
health matters.
expect miracles, herbal teas can you lose weight or whatever the
be a useful and healthy drink to claim is – makes no sense.”
enjoy,” Dr Wyness says. Protective plant compounds
What about herbal teas that claim called flavonoids found in herbs
to support specific bodily functions may well have health benefits.
and organs? Some say they can “But in a cup or two of herbal tea
‘detox’ the liver (spoiler: they can’t you’re unlikely to get much of
– your liver helps detox your body) them,” Marber says. “Multiple cups
or “help improve digestion and the every day might have some effect,
immune system”. One tea claims it but there’s never a quantified dose
“supports respiratory health”.
Numerous teas claim to aid weight The global market for caffeine-
loss because they contains herbs and
botanicals “believed to suppress the
free hot drinks is predicted to
appetite”. Often, packet information be worth £3.3 billion by 2025
fails to state how much of the tea
needs to be consumed to gain the on the packet. Herbal tea seems to
claimed benefits – or the quantity get away with vague claims.”
of active ingredients in a tea.
Most health and nutrition claims IS GREEN TEA DIFFERENT?
on food, drink and supplement Green tea – which, contrary to what
packaging are covered by European many think, contains caffeine – may
regulations. Claims relating to be a slightly different story. Unlike
vitamins and minerals, for example, black tea, which is fermentated,
must be scientifically checked and green tea is unprocessed and higher
approved before they can be printed in flavonoids. The most active of
on the packet. But herbal teas can fall these is epigallocatechin gallate
outside these regulations because (EGCG), a strong antioxidant.
they contain ingredients traditionally A growing body of evidence suggests
used as remedies, explains Bridget green tea might reduce the risk of
Benelam, a nutrition scientist and serious health conditions, notably
spokesperson for the British heart disease. But the results of
Nutrition Foundation. “Such claims large controlled studies have been
are based on traditional use and as inconsistent, and the health claims
such we don’t have a strong body are often exaggerated, according to
of evidence to say whether they’re Dr Wyness. “Most studies on tea are
likely to be effective or not,” she says. small observational human studies, TRUE OR FALSE?
Some teas with added nutrients, or conducted on animals or with
such as vitamin C, can make cells in the laboratory, so results are
Health claims on herbal tea
authorised health claims. “Although inconclusive,” she says.
packaging are always scientifically
it’s worth noting that having more There is some evidence that green
proven
❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
of a nutrient such as vitamin C may tea, including the powdered matcha
only make a difference to health if variety, can aid weight loss. “But Some health claims on herbal tea
you weren’t getting enough the results were modest, so it’s packaging are allowed because the
previously,” Benelam adds. unlikely to result in any notable ingredients are traditional remedies
difference in weight,” she says. ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
MISLEADING CLAIMS
Some nutritionists believe THE BOTTOM LINE Some herbal teas may confer some
regulations need tightening to There is little robust scientific benefits for some people
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 35
MAKE IT VEGAN
Good-for-you
READY
IN 30!
‘fakeaways’
With a passion for plant-based eating, Ian and Henry better
known as BOSH! are on a mission to get more of us to ‘live
on the veg’. These better-than-a-takeaway recipes from their
new book are all ready in 30 minutes plus they’ve thrown in
their hacks for vegan cooking… Eating in never tasted so good
BOSH NOSH!
Quick tandoori
kebabs
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 37
Grill for 10 minutes, turning the
“The best way to show someone how good pieces halfway through cooking,
plant-based food can be is to cook them a dish” until golden and charred in places.
They have five books to their name, 500-plus YouTube videos and a Facebook page 2 For the raita, grate the cucumber
that attracts 26 million views a month. They’ve created plant-based versions of into a bowl. Add the mint and
everything from foie gras to victoria sponge. With that kind of output, it’s hard to coconut yogurt and mix to combine.
believe Ian Theasby and Henry Firth only cut out meat and dairy five years ago. Season with salt and black pepper
“Ian was on a health kick and I was turned on by the climate change aspect, but 3 Spread a dollop of the raita over
we quickly started thinking about animal welfare, too,” explains Henry. “Eating each warm bread, top with the
more vegetables is only going to be a good thing,” says Ian. “It’s good for your tandoori pieces and a squeeze of
health, and also the pressure that we put on our health service.” Henry believes grilled lime, then finish with
the best thing we can do to reduce our environmental impact is change our eating coriander and spring onions. Add
habits. “It doesn’t mean you have to go vegan or veggie – just think about the a pinch of chilli flakes, if using.
impact of what you’re putting on your plate and make some small changes.” PER SERVING 308kcals, 9.5g fat (2.2g
BOSH! are about how easy and tasty plant-based cooking can be. Recipes in their saturated), 25.7g protein, 24.1g carbs
new book, Speedy BOSH!, are ready in 30 minutes, with a modest list of supermarket- (5.7g sugars), 2.8g salt, 11.8g fibre
friendly ingredients, and it includes the guys’ top hacks for fast, flavour-packed
food. “It’s been exciting over the past few years, learning what you can achieve
cooking with plants,” says Ian. “A fantastic flavour journey!” Henry agrees. “The Frying-pan samosa pie
best way to show someone how good plant-based food can be is to cook them a dish.” SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
38 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
eat well every day.
SIMPLY PANTASTIC
Frying-pan
samosa pie
FOR THE TOPPING with the filo scrunches and bring it • 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 6 filo pastry sheets to the table. Serve straight from the • 1 tbsp rice vinegar or balsamic
• Vegetable oil to brush pan with a dollop of coconut yogurt. vinegar
• Nigella seeds to sprinkle PER SERVING 379kcals, 10.6g fat • 1 tbsp sesame oil
(0.8g saturated), 9.8g protein, • 1 tsp sugar
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ 58.4g carbs (4.3g sugars), 0.3g salt, • 1 tsp chilli flakes
gas 6. Tip the potatoes into a large 5.4g fibre
microwaveable bowl, cover and 1 Heat the sesame oil in a hot frying
microwave on high for 4-6 minutes. pan, then add the mushrooms and
2 Roughly chop the cauliflower into Spicy dan dan noodles mince with a pinch of salt. Fry for
bite-size chunks. Add to the bowl SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN about 10 minutes, stirring regularly,
with the potatoes and microwave until you’re left with a crispy
for 6 minutes more. This is one of the most mixture (turn down the heat if you
3 Meanwhile, make the topping (see surprising recipes in our new find it sticks to the pan too much).
Make Ahead). Take a sheet of pastry book – a classic Chinese recipe 2 Meanwhile, cook the noodles
and brush with vegetable oil, then with incredible flavour. It may according to the packet instructions.
sprinkle with nigella seeds. Scrunch not be much to look at, but it Drain and rinse with cold water.
it up into a rough shape (the 6 shapes wows the taste buds with its 3 Mix all the sauce ingredients in
together should cover the top of punchy flavours. And the noodles a bowl with 50ml cold water.
your frying pan) and put it on the are great at absorbing flavour. 4 Grate the garlic into the mince pan
baking tray. Repeat with the rest of Trust us, you’ll love this recipe. with the ginger. Add the chinese
the pastry sheets and bake for 6-8 It’s one of Ian’s all-time faves. five-spice and cook for 1 minute,
minutes until golden, keeping an adding a splash more sesame oil if
eye on them – they can turn from Look for Vivera Plant Mince the mixture looks too dry.
FOOD
golden to overcooked very quickly! TEAM’S
or Clearspring Organic Soya 5 Pour in a third of the sauce and
TIP
4 For the filling, add the 1 tbsp veg Mince from Tesco, larger cook for 2 minutes until the mince
oil to the frying pan and put it over supermarkets and health food shops. is slightly browned. Remove half
a high heat. Grate the garlic and the mince mixture and set it aside.
ginger directly into the pan and add • 1 tbsp sesame oil, plus extra if Reduce the heat to low. Transfer the
the chilli along with a pinch of salt. needed cooked noodles to the pan and add
5 Add the curry powder, turmeric • 125g mushrooms (we used most of the spring onions. Increase
and fennel seeds, then tip in the shiitake), finely chopped the heat, pour in the remaining
cooked cauliflower and potato • 200g plant-based mince (see tip) sauce and stir well, adding a splash
chunks. Stir to coat in the spices, • 200g ramen noodles (or of water to loosen if necessary.
add the stock and season well. Cover whichever noodles you prefer) 6 Divide the noodle mixture among
the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes. • 2 garlic cloves 2-3 bowls. Top with the reserved
6 Take off the lid and use a fork or • Thumb-size piece fresh ginger crispy mince, then finish each
potato masher to lightly smush the • 1 tsp chinese five-spice powder portion with a drizzle of chilli oil,
mixture. Add the peas to the pan • 3 spring onions, sliced sesame seeds and the remaining
and cook for 2 minutes, then remove • Chilli oil for drizzling spring onions.
from the heat. Add the coriander and • 2 tbsp sesame seeds PER SERVING (FOR 3) 547kcals,
stir it through the mixture. Squeeze 22.9g fat (3.6g saturated), 17.8g
in the lime juice, then stir it through. FOR THE SAUCE protein, 63.2g carbs (8g sugars),
7 To assemble, top the frying pan • 2 tbsp tahini 3.3g salt, 8.5g fibre →
40 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
eat well every day.
42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
NOTES FROM OUR (VIRTUAL)
T E S T K I T CHEN
The delicious. team may not be in our office test kitchen, but every recipe is still
put through its paces in the food team’s homes and circulated via pictures (while
the rest of us salivate!). Food editor Jen Bedloe shares her favourite new supermarket
buys, gadgets or kit she’s tested, and the useful intel she’s gleaned this month
H OT O N T H E S H ELV ES
GADGET
THE
NEW POSH CRISPS ALERT! PROPER PICKLES TEST
Kettle claims its new Thai I’m a fan of serving
Sweet Chilli crisps are the a sarnie or cheesy When it comes to pans, I don’t
best. Although I haven’t done a bake with a pickle want gimmicks, just rock-solid
comparison, they taste pretty on the side, and I’ve
reliability and a non-stick surface
good to me: sweet and not too recently discovered Vadasz
fiery with a touch of star anise. cold-brined pickles in M&S – so The Whatever Pan sounds a bit grumpy
The best bit, though, fresh and crunchy compared to adolescent, but unlike a stroppy teen it’s
is the crunch. Look vinegary versions. I munched pretty handy in the kitchen. I’ve had one
out for other flavours the Garlic & Dill pickles with for a couple of months in my WFH test
in the new range cold cuts and cheese, straight kitchen and have put it through its
such as Truffled from the tub. The Red Onion paces on all sorts of dishes that require
Cheese & A Splash of pickles and Raw Kimchi are a non-stick pan or griddle.
English Sparkling also great. And a bonus: the It’s versatile – it comes with a lid
Wine (left). Yum. pickles are fermented and and neatly transfers from hob to oven
£1.99 for 150g, unpasteurised so they’re good to table (just remember those hot
in supermarkets now for your gut. £4.50 for 400g handles!). The pan’s made from cast
aluminium, which is light, sturdy and
reliable, and it washes up like a dream.
RAISE YOUR WEEKEND FRY-UP GAME GOD’S OWN MUFFINS? Steak and sausages cooked just as
Clonakilty in Cork, in the During lockdown, beautifully as sliced courgettes and
southwest of Ireland, is famous our homemade potatoes. It comes with an affordable
for its black pudding, but they sausage and egg price tag and a 25-year guarantee.
also make a white version that’s muffin recipe £37.50 from jean-patrique.co.uk
more like pork sausage. We cut (a homage to a
ours into chunky slices, then certain takeaway
fried them, but you could bake chain) went viral
them on a tray in a hot oven. My on social media,
son Jack said they tasted like but just think how impressive
mini sausage burgers. I loved they’d be made with these
the texture of the oatmeal. huge muffins from Jacksons
2 for 200g, Sainsbury’s bakery. They don’t do things
by halves in Yorkshire, eh?
Find our recipe at delicious
magazine.co.uk and Jacksons
Proper Yorkshire Muffins,
£1.89 for a pack of 3, at Waitrose
44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
eat well every day.
A
AUTUMN
LOVE YOUR FREEZER FR
RUIT GLUT
Don’t discard
46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
eat well every day.
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48 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
ESCAPE
FISH PIE MASTERCLASS 50 O PUMPKINS SWEET AND SAVOURY 58OMARY BERRY’S SUNDAY ROAST 68
MEET THE COFFEE PRODUCER 78OMOVIE NIGHT 80ODRINKS MATCHING 85
COVER TART 86OJOHN WHAITE IN MAURITIUS 88 GIANT JAFFA CAKE 96
BITE-SIZE STAYCATION 98O FOOD CULTURE IN A WAR ZONE 102
ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
CALUM FRANKLIN’S
fish pie masterclass
It’s fish pie season again – hooray! Chef Calum Franklin, the king of pies, shares his ultimate
recipe from his debut cookbook, along with two Franklinesque twists and his tips to achieve
perfection. There’s another key ingredient, he says: a good pie begins with a happy kitchen
UPPER CRUST
The ultimate fish pie
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 51
F
or Calum Franklin, the pie (never use the word humble!)
represents a world of creative possibilities. “Making a super-
tasty filling comes first,” he says, “then when you wrap that in
pastry, you have a blank canvas to create on.” He’s talking about the
elaborate pastry patterns (such as those in the sketches here) that
have made his pies famous. But that success isn’t just down to him, he
insists: “I give my team free rein to come up with something beautiful.”
Design-mad Calum grew up in London, and the city’s many and
varied architectural details provide ample inspiration for his crusty
creations. Staff are sent on expeditions for ideas, and they get them
from everything from door handles to stained glass. Calum reckons
that giving the staff that independence pays off: “Putting their own
stamp on something brings out people’s pride in their work.”
Cultivating talent and creating a supportive atmosphere is what it’s
all about for Calum. “I respect regimented kitchens but ours is different
– we treat each other like family.” It’s a close-knit one at that (two of
the team attended Calum’s wedding) and he’s dedicated a section in
his debut book, The Pie Room (out this month), to his chefs. “None of
them knew that chapter was in there until they saw the book,” he says.
Why did he do it? “We built this together. It’s my thank you to them.”
Calum hopes his book will dispel any fears about making pastry and
popularise the idea of making a pie for someone. “A pie is a lovely gift –
it’s handcrafted and takes a bit of love to create.” But there’s a downside:
“Nowadays, people get upset if I come to visit and don’t bring a pie!”
IT TAKES A VILLAGE TO
RAISE A PIE Calum (in blue)
with his senior team
VERSION ONE • 1 tbsp dijon mustard the poaching liquid; set both aside.
The ultimate fish pie • ¾ tsp salt 3 Wipe out the pan and add the
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN. • 50g cheddar, grated butter, bring it to a bubble over
SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME a medium heat, then whisk in the
30-40 MIN FOR THE POTATO TOPPING flour. Reduce the heat to low and
• 1.2kg king edward potatoes, cook for 8 minutes, whisking
Allow the elements to cool, peeled and quartered continuously. Gradually add half the
MAKE then assemble the pie up to • 200ml whole milk reserved poaching liquid and bring
AHEAD
a day ahead. You can freeze • 100ml double cream the mixture back to a simmer,
leftovers for up to a month; defrost • 60g butter whisking continuously to prevent
fully before reheating thoroughly. • 2 medium free-range egg yolks, lumps forming. Add the remaining
This pie is full of flavour as beaten poaching liquid and cook until thick
FOOD
TEAM’S it is but, for an extra kick, • ¾ tsp salt and smooth. Mix in the peas, capers,
TIP
serve with Tabasco sauce. chives, parsley, mustard and salt.
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… 4 Return the drained fish to the pan
FOR THE FILLING • Deep ovenproof dish, about and lightly fold into the sauce, being
• 500ml whole milk 30cm x 20cm x 5cm careful not to break it up. Spoon the
• 300ml double cream mixture into a deep ovenproof dish
• 300g sustainable skinless, 1 To make the topping, put the and level it (see Make Ahead).
boneless cod fillets, cut into potatoes in a pan and add enough 5 Spread the mash topping over the
2.5cm dice salted water to just cover them. pie mixture, taking it right to the
• 200g sustainable skinless, Bring to the boil, then reduce the edges of the dish, then ruffle the top
boneless salmon fillet, cut into heat and simmer until the potatoes with a fork to create texture. Scatter
2.5cm dice are tender. Drain and allow to steam the grated cheese evenly over the
• 200g sustainable skinless, dry for a few minutes in a colander surface of the pie.
boneless smoked haddock fillet, set over the hot pan. Add the 200ml 6 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
cut into 2.5cm dice milk, 100ml double cream and 60g gas 6. Put the dish on a large baking
• 150g sustainable peeled raw butter to the pan, then mash the sheet in the hot oven and bake for
tiger prawns potatoes until smooth. Mix in the 30-40 minutes or until the sauce is
• 60g butter egg yolks and salt, then set aside. bubbling up at the sides and the
• 60g plain flour 2 Next make the filling. Pour the potato topping has a crisp golden
• 300g frozen peas, thawed milk and cream into a medium pan crust. Serve (see tip).
• 30g capers and bring to a simmer. Drop the PER SERVING (FOR 8) 775kcals,
• 30g fresh chives, finely chopped diced fish and peeled prawns into 51.2g fat (29.4g saturated), 32.6g
• 30g fresh flatleaf parsley, leaves the simmering liquid and poach for protein, 43g carbs (7.2g sugars),
picked and chopped 2 minutes. Drain the fish, reserving 2.1g salt, 5.8g fibre →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 53
ADDING AN ELEMENT OF SURPRISE
Breaking through the flaky pastry on the top of this pie releases
all its curry aromas. The cod is interchangeable with other
firm-fleshed white fish, like hake or coley, and the tamarind can be
swapped for the juice of half a lime if you find it difficult to get hold
of. As this pie is a meal in itself, I wouldn’t serve it with rice, but if
you can’t have curry without it, I’m not going to stop you!
54 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
make it special.
VERSION TWO
Hot and sour
curried cod pie
SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN
TIME 25 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING
56 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
make it special.
AhhÉ
AUTUMN! Colourful, abundant, velvety and mild,
pumpkins are too good to let pass by.
Stuff them with zesty feta and lemon
as the main event or cast them as best
supporting actor in a silky risotto and
let these October jewels shine
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 59
• 2 tbsp currants 2 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.
Spice-roasted pumpkin soup • Small handful each fresh flatleaf Toss the pumpkin in a large roasting tray
with macadamia nut dukkah parsley, mint and coriander leaves with 3 tbsp of the oil, the spices and the
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME • Labneh or Greek yogurt to serve whole garlic cloves. Season, then roast for
45-50 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 10-15 MIN 45-50 minutes or until the pumpkin is
FOR THE DUKKAH cooked and the garlic is soft. Squeeze the
Chill the soup and keep for 3-4 days • 1 tsp fennel seeds garlic flesh out of the skins over the
MAKE in an airtight container. Or freeze • 1 tsp sesame seeds pumpkin. Set aside.
AHEAD
in batches for up to 3 months. • 1 tsp cumin seeds 3 Heat the remaining 2 tbsp oil in a large
Defrost in the fridge overnight and reheat • 2 tbsp macadamias saucepan set over a medium-high heat.
until piping hot. Store the dukkah in an • 2 tsp fresh thyme leaves Add the onions and cook, stirring
airtight container for up to 3 days. • 1 tsp salt flakes occasionally, for 10-12 minutes or until the
onions have softened. Add the pumpkin
• 1.2kg pumpkin, peeled and seeds YOU’LL ALSO NEED… mixture and stock, then cover and cook,
removed, cut into large wedges • A stick blender stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes.
• 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 4 Remove from the heat and use the stick
• ¼ tsp chilli flakes, plus extra to serve 1 For the dukkah, toast the seeds for blender to whizz until smooth. Season,
• ¼ tsp smoked paprika a few minutes in a dry frying pan. Cool, then stir in the lemon zest and juice. Divide
• ½ tsp ground cumin then crush in a pestle and mortar (or in the soup among warmed serving bowls,
• ½ tsp ground coriander a jug with the end of a rolling pin), and then scatter with extra chilli flakes,
• 1 garlic bulb, separated into unpeeled transfer to a bowl. Toast the macadamias currants, herbs and some dukkah. Add
cloves in the same way, then cool and chop a dollop of labneh or yogurt to serve.
• 2 onions, finely chopped before adding to the bowl of crushed PER SERVING (FOR 6) 180kcals, 12.2g fat
• 1.25 litres hot vegetable stock seeds along with the thyme leaves (1.9g saturated), 3.3g protein, 11.8g carbs
• Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon and salt. Set aside (see Make Ahead). (9.5g sugars), 0.9g salt, 4.7g fibre →
60 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
make it special.
GOLDEN BOWL
Pumpkin risotto
with corn and
ricotta
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 61
HEARTY SUPPER
Stuffed baby
pumpkins with
preserved lemon
SLICE OF HEAVEN
Maple and spice
pumpkin pie
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 63
History in the
making
For almost 1,000 years,
Parmigiano Reggiano has been
one of Italy’s finest culinary
exports, so it’s no surprise its
story is as unique as its taste
F
ew things have stood the test of 12 months – the longest of all WHERE IT ALL BEGAN…
of time quite like Parmigiano PDO cheeses – it is inspected only Monks first produced Parmigiano
Reggiano. First produced by the Consortium, a protective Reggiano in the Middle Ages. Driven
nine centuries ago, this world- body whose experts determine by the quest to make a cheese that
renowned cheese is as popular if a wheel has made the grade. lasted a long time, they allowed the
today as it ever was. The secret to When aged between 12 and 18 mass to dry and increased the wheel
its success? Cherished traditions, months, the cheese has a delicate size, enabling it to keep for longer
natural ingredients and artisan milky aroma that goes well with and travel well. It’s this durability
farmers with a genuine love for sparkling white wines, while a that remains one of parmesan’s
the craft. wheel that’s left to mature for 22 main selling points to this day.
Right down to the use of local to 24 months has notes of fresh
cows’ milk, this inimitable PDO fruit and nuts and works The cheese even made its debut
(Protected Designation of Origin) wonderfully with medium-bodied in the literary world in 1344, when
cheese is made solely in the wines. Aged between 30 and 36 Italian writer Giovanni Boccaccio
provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, months, it has a rich flavour and mentioned it in his novella, The
Modena and Mantua to the right grainy texture that marries perfectly Decameron. Describing the
of the river Po and Bologna to the with honey and fruit. For an intense imaginary town of Bengodi, he
left of the river Reno in northern parmesan that boasts a varied detailed a mountain of “grated
Italy. Indeed, Parmigiano Reggiano aromatic spectrum, a Parmigiano parmesan” on top of which
is produced with so much care, Reggiano that’s been aged for “macaroni and ravioli” were
that it’s practically an art form. 40 months or more is the ultimate rolled. Bellissima!
Left to mature for a minimum cheeseboard addition.
into a pan and gently heat until Allow the pumpkins and
steaming. Turn the heat down under MAKE filling to cool, then assemble
AHEAD
the pan and keep warm. and chill, covered, up to a
3 Stir the rice and pumpkin into the day ahead. Reheat in a 180°C/160°C
onion and cook for 1-2 minutes or fan/gas 4 oven for about 15 minutes
until the rice is coated in the butter until piping hot.
mixture. Add the wine and cook,
stirring, for 1 minute or until • 4 mini pumpkins (we used gem
reduced by half. pumpkins), tops cut off and
4 Gradually add the stock/milk to reserved, seeds and stringy bits
Pumpkin risotto with the saucepan, 1 ladleful at a time, removed and discarded
corn and ricotta stirring between each addition, • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 45-50 MIN and cook for 22-25 minutes or until • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
the rice is cooked but still has some • 2 tsp fennel seeds
Add a handful of frozen bite. Stir in the corn and cook for • 40g pine nuts
FOOD
TEAM’S petit pois along with the 3-4 minutes more or until tender • 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds
TIP
corn in step 4 for colour (it will need less time if you’re using • 4 banana shallots, chopped
and an extra portion of veg. tinned sweetcorn). Add a splash • 200-250g mixed leaves (we used
more freshly boiled water if the rice rainbow chard, spinach and kale),
• 40g butter needs it – it should feel unctuous stalks removed, roughly chopped
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and yielding. Stir in the parmesan • Handful fresh mint and basil
• 1 onion, finely chopped and lemon zest, then season. leaves, roughly chopped, plus
• 1 litre vegetable stock 4 Divide the risotto among extra leaves to serve
• 300ml milk 4 warmed serving bowls, then • 150g feta, crumbled
• 300g arborio rice scatter with the parsley and spoon • Finely grated zest and juice
• 300g pumpkin, peeled and over the ricotta. Add a squeeze of 1 lemon
seeds removed, cut into 1cm lemon juice to each bowl and serve. • 1 preserved lemon quarter, pith
chunks PER SERVING 318kcals, 22.8g fat removed, finely chopped
• 125ml white wine (11.5g saturated), 10.4g protein, • ¼ tsp chilli flakes (optional)
• 1 corn cob, kernels sliced off 10.7g carbs (8.3g sugars), 0.5g salt,
(or use a small can of sweetcorn) 2.6g fibre 1 Heat oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
• 40g finely grated parmesan, gas 4. Put the pumpkins on a large
plus extra to serve (or vegetarian baking tray. Put 2 tbsp of the oil in
alternative) a small bowl with 2 crushed garlic
• Finely grated zest and juice cloves and the fennel seeds.
1 lemon Season, then whisk to combine.
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf 2 Drizzle the oil mixture over the
parsley leaves inside and outside of the pumpkins,
• 100g ricotta then roast the pumpkin bases for
45-50 minutes or until they’re just
1 Heat the butter and oil in a large soft but still hold their shape. Add
heavy-based saucepan over a the lids for the final 10 minutes.
medium-high heat. Add the onion Stuffed baby pumpkins 3 Meanwhile, heat a large, deep
and cook, stirring, for 8-10 minutes with preserved lemon frying pan over a medium-high heat.
or until the onion has softened. SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, Add the remaining oil and crushed
2 Pour the vegetable stock and milk OVEN TIME 55-60 MIN, PLUS COOLING garlic, along with the pine nuts →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 65
make it special.
and pumpkin seeds, then cook, warm pasta or kept chilled for base and sides of the prepared tart
stirring, for 1-2 minutes. Stir in the up to 4 days. tin before folding in the top edges
shallots and cook for 2-3 minutes (it’s okay to patch the pastry as this
more, then add the leaves and herbs • About 1.2kg pumpkin, peeled and pie has an uneven, rustic effect).
and cook for 3-4 minutes or until the seeds removed, cut to 2cm slices Prick the pastry base all over with
leaves are wilted. Remove from the • 250g all-butter puff pastry (see tip) a fork, then chill for 30 minutes.
heat to cool slightly. • Plain flour for dusting 3 Line the pastry case with baking
4 Stir in the feta, lemon zest and • 3 medium free-range eggs paper and baking beans/uncooked
juice, preserved lemon and chilli • ¼ tsp each ground nutmeg, rice, then bake for 20 minutes.
flakes (if using). Season to taste. ground cinnamon, ground ginger Remove the beans/rice and baking
5 Fill the baked pumpkins with and ground allspice paper, then return the tart to the
the leaves and herb mixture. Top with • 1½ tbsp maple syrup oven to bake for a further 15
the lids, then roast for 10 minutes • 125g dark muscovado sugar minutes or until the pastry is golden
until warmed through. Scatter • Single cream to serve and feels dry and sandy to the
extra herbs over the filling to serve. touch. Set aside to cool. Reduce the
PER SERVING 307kcals, 23.8g fat YOU’LL ALSO NEED… oven to 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3.
(7g saturated), 11.5g protein, • Food processor or blender; 4 To make the filling, whisk together
9.4g carbs (6.4g sugars), 1.6g salt, 22cm round loose-bottomed the pumpkin purée, eggs, spices
4.5g fibre tart tin, base and sides greased; and maple syrup in a bowl until
compostable baking paper; smooth. Crumble over the sugar
ceramic baking beans or and mix again until smooth. Pour
uncooked rice the pumpkin mixture into the tart
shell, then bake for 45 minutes or
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ until the filling is just set but still
gas 6. Put the pumpkin slices on has a slight wobble when you gently
a large baking tray and roast for move the tin. Put the tart on a wire
45-50 minutes or until tender and rack and leave to cool completely,
lightly caramelised. Remove from then chill for 2 hours or until cold
the oven cool completely. Transfer and set. Serve with cream.
Maple and spice to a food processor or blender and PER SERVING 307kcals, 23.8g fat
pumpkin pie whizz until smooth (you will need (7g saturated), 11.5g protein,
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, 500g puréed pumpkin – see tip). 9.4g carbs (6.4g sugars), 1.6g salt,
OVEN TIME 45-50 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND 2 Meanwhile, roll out the pastry on 4.5g fibre
CHILLING a lightly floured surface to a rough For more ways to use ground
28cm circle, then press onto the allspice, see Loose Ends
You need to begin this
MAKE recipe at least 3 hours
AHEAD
ahead of time. The finished
pie will keep in a sealed container
for up to 3 days.
Wrap up the remaining
The fall of an acorn on the ground,
FOOD
TEAM’S pastry and freeze for up
TIP
the pattering of nuts on the hazel
to a month. Defrost in the
fridge before using. Any leftover
branches as they fall from ripeness
pumpkin purée can be added to the JOHN CLARE
risotto recipe above, stirred through
66 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Rosemary steak and quinoa
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
OVEN TIME 30 MIN, PLUS MARINATING
Ciao bella
ensure the veg is spaced out evenly.
3 Roast the veg for 30 minutes, turning
halfway through. Meanwhile, whisk the
remaining olive oil, lemon zest and
juice, basil and parsley together to
make a dressing, then, in a large
Say hello to the inimitable taste of Italy with bowl, toss it through the quinoa.
this tempting steak recipe from Napolina 4 When the veg has 10 minutes’ cooking
W
time left, heat a griddle pan until
hether it’s an occasion dinner Napolina. That’s why it champions smoking and reserve the marinade.
for the family or a romantic only the finest ingredients – whether Cook the steaks for 2½ minutes on
meal for two, nothing says it’s a drizzle of wonderfully rich olive each side for medium-rare – brushing
special like a succulent steak. And why oil or sweet, vine-ripened tomatoes any leftover marinade over the meat as
not make it extra special by giving it an plucked straight from sun-kissed Puglia. it cooks. Leave the steaks to rest on a
inspired Italian twist? So go on, breathe fresh life into a chopping board before slicing.
After all, at its heart, Italian cooking classic steak with this simple and tasty 5 Once the veg is roasted, mix it into
is all about simple recipes, quality recipe. Served with vibrant roast the quinoa. Divide between 4 plates
ingredients and, of course, big flavours. vegetables and quinoa, it’s the ultimate and sit the sliced steak on top of each.
No one understands that better than Italian celebration meal. Serve immediately.
For more Italian recipes and cooking inspiration, visit napolina.com or follow @napolina on Instagram
MENU OF THE MONTH
GOLDEN DELICIOUS
Roast chicken with tarragon
butter & melting onions
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 69
THE VERY WORDS ‘COMFORT FOOD’ are like a big
warm hug for most of us. Cooking a superb meal is a way of
expressing love and giving comfort and pleasure to family and
friends. Comfort food should be easy to make, and I like dishes
that can be put together reasonably quickly without stress or too
many ingredients. And you don’t have to be a three-star chef.
Particularly when I’m expecting the family around, I like to
make life easier by getting as much done as I can ahead of time.
That way I can concentrate on people rather than getting stuck in
the kitchen. As always, I’ve kept the recipes as clear and concise as
possible, with glorious photographs to inspire you. I hope you get
as much pleasure from cooking and serving these dishes as I do.
MARY BERRY
make it special.
GUARANTEED
TO IMPRESS
Double-baked
mushroom
soufflés
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 71
Gradually add the hot milk, whisking • 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
over a high heat until you have • Grated zest ½ lemon
a smooth, thickened sauce. • 1.8-2kg free-range chicken
4 Remove the pan from the heat and • 2 large onions, very thickly sliced
beat in the egg yolks, one at a time, • Olive oil to drizzle
until the sauce is smooth. Add the
mushrooms and cheese, season FOR THE GRAVY
with salt and freshly ground black • 50g flour
Double-baked mushroom pepper, then set aside to cool a little. • 100ml white wine
soufflés 5 Whisk the egg whites until soft • 500ml chicken stock
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, peaks form. Stir about 1 tbsp egg • Worcestershire sauce to taste
OVEN TIME ABOUT 27 MIN whites into the mushroom mixture, • 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly
then gently fold in the rest with a • Gravy browning (optional)
Soufflés can be made up to large metal spoon, keeping it all • 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
MAKE 8 hours ahead and reheated light and airy (don’t overmix).
AHEAD
with the sauce in step 8. 6 Divide the soufflé mixture evenly YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
For vegetarians, use among the ramekins, then sit them • Medium roasting tin
FOOD
TEAM’S emmental and a vegetarian on the paper in the roasting tin.
TIP
parmesan substitute. Pour enough boiling water into the 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
tin to come halfway up the sides of gas 6. Measure the butter, garlic,
• 75g butter, plus extra to grease the ramekins. Bake the soufflés for ginger, tarragon and lemon zest into
• 200g chestnut mushrooms, 15 minutes until risen and lightly a small bowl, season with salt and
finely chopped golden. Remove from the oven and black pepper and mix well. Set the
• 50g plain flour set aside to cool (see Make Ahead). chicken on a board. Loosen the skin
• 300ml whole milk, hot 7 To make the sauce, pour the cream over the breast and pull it up to
• 3 medium free-range eggs, into a fairly large jug and add the make a pocket (work your hand in
separated spinach and mustard. Season with from the neck end, but be careful
• 50g gruyère, grated (see tip) salt and pepper and stir to combine. not to break the skin). Push the
• 50g parmesan, grated 8 To serve, heat the oven to 220°C/ butter mixture under the skin and
200°C fan/gas 7. Run a knife around use your hand to spread it evenly
FOR THE SAUCE the edge of each ramekin and take over the breast. Push the skin back
• 300ml double cream out the soufflés. Sit them, browned down. Put any tarragon stalks into
• 50g baby leaf spinach, chopped side up, in an ovenproof dish, then the cavity of the chicken.
• 2 tsp dijon mustard spoon the sauce around. Reheat for 2 Transfer the chicken to a medium
about 12 minutes until piping hot. roasting tin and scatter the onions
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… PER SOUFFLÉ 520kcals, 47.3g fat around it. Drizzle a little oil over the
• 6 x 100ml ramekins; kitchen (28.5g saturated), 13.5g protein, skin and legs, rub it in, then season
paper; large roasting tin 9.8g carbs (3.4g sugars),0.8g salt, the chicken with salt and pepper.
0.7g fibre Roast in the oven for about 1½ hours.
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/ 3 To test if the chicken is cooked,
gas 7 and butter the ramekins insert a small, sharp knife or a
generously. Lay a piece of kitchen skewer into the thickest part of the
paper in the roasting tin – it stops thigh; if the juices run clear, it’s
the ramekins sliding around. done. Transfer the chicken to a
2 Melt 25g butter in a large, non- board, cover with foil and leave
stick frying pan. Add the mushrooms to rest. Spoon the onions into
and fry them over a high heat for a a warmed serving bowl.
few minutes. Cover the pan with a lid, 4 For the gravy, put the roasting tin
lower the heat and cook for 4 minutes Roast chicken with with the cooking juices over a
more, then remove the lid and fry tarragon butter & medium heat. Sprinkle over the
over a high heat to evaporate any melting onions flour and whisk until smooth. Add
liquid. Remove the mushrooms with SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN the wine, stock, Worcestershire
a slotted spoon and set aside. TIME ABOUT 1½ HOURS, PLUS RESTING sauce, redcurrant jelly and gravy
3 To make the soufflé base, melt the browning, if using. Whisk over
remaining butter in a saucepan. • 50g butter, softened the heat for 5 minutes until well
Whisk in the flour to make a roux • 1 garlic clove, crushed combined and thickened. Check the
(paste) and cook for 1 minute. • 2cm fresh ginger, finely grated seasoning, pour the gravy through
72 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
make it special.
Chocolate steamed • 300g Bournville chocolate, 3 Put the small plate or trivet in a
pudding with chocolate broken into pieces deep pan. Set the basin on top and
sauce • 1 tsp vanilla extract pour in enough boiling water to come
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, halfway up the side. Cover with a lid.
SIMMERING TIME 1½-1¾ HOURS YOU’LL ALSO NEED… Bring the water back to the boil, then
• Electric hand mixer; 1.1 litre reduce the heat and simmer very
The pudding can be made pudding basin, greased and base gently for 1½-1¾ hours until the top
MAKE a few hours ahead and left lined with compostable baking of the sponge is firm to the touch.
AHEAD
in hot water in the basin. paper; kitchen foil; string; 4 For the sauce, heat the milk and
Make the sauce up to a day ahead, heatproof plate or trivet cream until just boiling, then add
cover and chill. Reheat to serve. the chocolate and vanilla. Remove
1 Put all the pudding ingredients into from the heat and stir until smooth.
• 125g baking spread or softened a bowl. Beat with a hand-held 5 Carefully remove the basin from
butter, plus extra to grease electric whisk until well blended, the pan and take off the foil (see
• 125g caster sugar light and fluffy. Spoon the mixture Make Ahead). Loosen the edges with
• 2 large free-range eggs into the lined basin and level the top. a knife, then invert onto a plate and
• 100g self-raising flour 2 Cut a square of foil about 4cm remove the bowl and any paper. Top
• 25g cocoa powder, sifted bigger on each side than the top the pudding with warm sauce and
• 1 tsp vanilla extract of the basin. Grease the underside serve the rest alongside in a jug.
Recipes taken and make a pleat in the middle of PER SERVING (FOR 8) 541kcals,
from Simple FOR THE SAUCE the square. Put the foil on top of the 34.6g fat (16.8g saturated), 6.9g
Comforts by
Mary Berry • 150ml whole milk basin, press around the edges, then protein, 49.3g carbs (39.2g sugars),
(BBC Books £26). • 150ml double cream tie with string to seal. 0.4g salt, 2.3g fibre
74 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
FLUFFY, LIGHT
& FULL OF
delight
Feeling fruity? Go decadent and delicate with
a Chocolate, Blackberry & Caramel Pavlova
they’ll be head over heels for.
J
oin Delia Smith, Alex Mackay and and wine and wants to learn more.
other food and wine experts for all-day Who’s there? Each day is hosted by Alex Traditional and contemporary
workshops full of inspiration and Mackay, formerly director of Raymond Christmas cooking
expertise, great food and wine – and lots of fun. Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons
What are they? Food demos, tutored wine Cookery School and Le Baou d’Infer
tastings, cocktail demonstrations, Q&A in Provence. There will be a tutored YOUR SAFETY ASSURANCE
sessions… Plus a three-course lunch at Delia’s wine tasting by Peter Graham Wines Delia’s Canary Catering will
Top of the Terrace Restaurant, Norwich. of Norfolk and Delia will be there, too, take every precaution to ensure
Who goes? Anyone of any age who loves food for photos and book signings. these events are COVID-19
secure and compliant with
government guidance. If your
★ BOOK NOW ★ Tickets for the food and wine workshops and rooms event is cancelled due to the
pandemic, Delia’s Canary
at the hotel are limited and available on a first-come, first-served basis: Catering will contact you to
please book early to avoid disappointment. re-arrange your booking or
l TIME 10.30am to 5pm, including lunch
offer a full refund.
l PRICE £120 per workshop, all inclusive
MAKE A NIGHT OF IT
DELIA PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON
l VENUE The Top of the Terrace Restaurant, Norwich City Football Club, Norwich
Turn your workshop into a
mini-break with an overnight stay
TO BOOK YOUR TICKETS OR AN OVERNIGHT PACKAGE at the onsite Holiday Inn Norwich
City. We’ve arranged a special
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 77
FROM PANAMA
TO THE PENNINES
Coffee roasters Dark Woods may travel the globe to source beans but, as Patrick
McGuigan discovers, the other half of the artistry happens closer to home
T
he coffee beans roasted by and flavours of our coffees,” says fruitiness, which is combined with
Dark Woods come from roaster Damian Blackburn, who a rich body and chocolatey flavour
exotic locations such as co-founded the business in 2013 once they are carefully roasted,”
Ethiopia, Costa Rica and Brazil, but with two coffee-industry friends, says Blackburn.
the company’s headquarters couldn’t Paul Meikle-Janney and Ian Agnew. Unlocking the natural sweetness,
be more British. Headquartered in “You need to be in the zone when acidity and complex aromas is a
an old textile mill beside a canal you’re roasting to be able to hear, delicate job, however, and only 5kg
and the River Colne, Dark Woods see and smell the beans, so it’s good of beans are roasted at a time. “We
roasts its beans surrounded to work in a peaceful space.” leave the roast a little lighter so the
by the moorland, The company sources speciality inherent fruitiness shines through
WORKING dry-stone walls and coffee varieties from skilled farmers, in the cup,” he says.
TOGETHER
PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS
the ancient woods then roasts them in a vintage 1950s The final flavour is remarkable,
delicious. supports of the Pennines. German drum roaster to bring out taking in berry and milk chocolate
The Great Taste Awards. “Working in their distinctive flavours. notes with a clean, sweet, cranberry
To discover more about them, a dramatic, There is plenty of distinction in finish – a taste of Panama with a
what they’re about and how windswept La Huella Café de Panama, for hint of the Pennines.
they’re judged, visit valley helps example, last year’s winner of the WHERE TO BUY
deliciousmagazine.co.uk inspire the mood Great Taste Award’s Golden Fork Visit darkwoodscoffee.co.uk
meet the producer.
HOW TO ENJOY IT
Pain au chocolat is
a perfect match for
Café de Panama,
complementing
the milk chocolate
notes in the coffee.
For something
completely different,
try accompanying
it with thin slices
of sweet and
spicy salami.
WELCOME TO THE
DARK SIDE
Paul, Damian
and Ian (opposite,
from left to right)
lightly roast
small batches of
speciality beans in
a vintage machine
to give Dark Woods’
Panama La Huella
Café de Panama
its distinctive taste
A fine match
Looking for an afternoon
indulgence or after-dinner
treat to serve alongside
your fine cup of coffee?
Try one of these recipes,
available online at Chocolate and Pecan and cinnamon Tiffin truffles
marzipan croissants streusel coffee cake
deliciousmagazine.co.uk
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 79
MOVIE NIGHT
WORDS: LES DUNN. BIRYANI RECIPE: MATT MORAN. PHOTOGRAPH: NIGEL LOUGH. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS. FILM STILL: ALAMY
lunches she sends to her Refreshingly free of clichés,
husband’s workplace are going this detailed, intimate story is
astray, she starts an illicit underscored by naturalistic,
correspondence with the grateful intelligent performances, keeping
accidental recipient, Saajan (Irrfan you quietly enthralled right to its
Khan), a widower preparing to ambiguous end. It’s one of those
retire from his dull accounting job. worth watching again and again.
The notes they stash in the
tiffins (lunchboxes) lengthen as TRIVIA TO MUNCH ON
their epistolatory relationship l Sadly the brilliant Irrfan Khan
grows – Ila confides her suspicions died of a tumour in April this
about her husband’s affair, while year, aged just 53. He was only 46
the grumpy-yet-charismatic Saajan when he made The Lunchbox – just
admits his frustrations and loneliness. seven years older than Nawazuddin
Meanwhile, Saajan is having to train WHY THIS MOVIE? Siddiqui, who played Shaikh.
his ingratiatingly keen young colleague, It’s about making food as a way of showing l The 130-year-old dabbawala system was
Shaikh, to take his place. As Saajan learns affection – something all cooks can relate studied by Harvard Business School and is
more about Shaikh’s difficult background, to. Ila cooks for her husband, trying to win certified ‘Six Sigma’, with the possibility of
he develops a grudging respect for him. back his love. Shaikh cooks for his beloved a mistake in just one in 8 million deliveries.
Seeing Shaikh happy with his wife, wife. When he realises Saajan spends each
whom he married against her parents’ evening watching TV alone, he persuades THE QUOTE TO QUOTE
wishes, Saajan fantasises about running him to come to his house for lamb pasanda. SHAIKH (after tasting Ila’s food):
away with Ila – and it turns out she’s The Lunchbox is also a film about You need magic in the hands. Anyone
thinking the same thing. But are they appetites, literal and metaphorical. As the can make food, but you need magic.
both dreaming (after all, they’ve never rut-stuck Saajan’s appetite is pricked by
even seen each other), or could this odd the delightful new lunches, his appetite Rent/buy it on Google Play and YouTube.
couple have a future? for life is reawakened too, further inspired Turn over for our meal suggestion →
80 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
make it special.
82 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Filippo Berio Pesto goes way beyond pasta.
Each one is a delicious addition to all kinds of lunchtime
dishes, from Italian flatbreads to rustic bruschetta.
MAIN IMAGE: ©ICEX/FERNANDO RAMAJO. MANGHEGO AND CABRALES IMAGES: ©ICEX/JUAN MANUEL SANZ
a sparkling cava or Spanish whites
Pride, passion and centuries of tradition go into such as a crisp verdejo or a fresh
making much of Spain’s excellent food and drink and floral viura.
but especially its superior cheeses
CABRALES PDO
S
pain’s culinary culture is legacy and the many peoples and A renowned
as rich and varied as the cultures that have inhabited its blue-vein cheese,
country itself. From territories over the years. Cabrales PDO can
wonderfully salty cured meats and Whether produced industrially be made from whole
fruity olive oils to aromatic saffron on a large scale or at a small dairy raw cow’s milk or from a mixture
and refreshing cava, the country’s specialising in authentic artisanal of cow’s, ewe’s and goat’s milk and
producers have taken centuries- cheese, Spanish cheeses are some is ripened for a minimum of two
old traditions and transformed of the finest in the world. It comes months in natural caves. It has
them into 21st century fine food as no surprise then that many have a balanced flavour, which varies
and wine products that you can been granted PDO (Protected depending on the type of milk used,
rely on for quality, traceability Designation of Origin) status, but it’s never salty or bitter. The
and sustainability. guaranteeing the authenticity of the cheese has a pronounced, persistent
There is perhaps no better regional cheese-making techniques, aftertaste, and the aroma is
example of this than Spain’s ingredients and traditions with penetrating and intense – especially
outstanding cheeses. The country which they’ve been made. when goat’s milk is used. Its texture
has more than 100 types of Want to bring an authentic taste is even throughout with a fine,
cheese in existence today – the of Spain to your table but not sure almost imperceptible graininess.
tremendous variety is partly due where to start? Try these two This unique blue cheese works
to its geographical and climatic magnificent PDO cheeses (right) well in sauces, melted over roasted
diversity, but also its historical by way of an introduction. meats, drizzled with honey or
enjoyed with fresh figs, toasted
bread or raisin bread. In terms of
wines, it pairs particularly well
with sweet Spanish sherry such
as pedro ximénez or an elegant
To find out more about Spain’s quality food and wines, visit foodswinesfromspain.com red rioja like a crianza.
drinks.
NEW-SEASON SIPPING
Susy Atkins picks wines and a honeyed treat to match the harvest
mood of our October recipes. Plus: something to read with a glass to hand
BUT IF YOU PREFER RED SUPER FOR SUNDAY LUNCH PERFECT FOR PUD
WITH YOUR SQUASH... Marcarini Ciabot Lyme Bay Traditional
The Best Fleurie 2018, Camerano Barbera d’Alba Mead, Devon, England
Beaujolais, France 13% 2018, Piedmont, Italy 14.5% (£9.75 for 75cl,
(£9.25, Morrisons) 13.5% (£17.95, bbr.com) lymebaywinery.co.uk)
A soft, not heavy red A splendid Italian red fit Rich and luscious, this
is needed for the texture for Mary Berry’s feast honey wine is autumn in a
of savoury squash or (p68). Tasting of red glass, smashing it with the
pumpkin dishes – here’s cherries and plum with pear and maple tart (p88),
a fine beaujolais that a sprinkle of almonds, sweet pumpkin dishes
tastes of red berries but it matches her soufflés (p58) and, of course, our
finishes smooth and dry. and the roast chicken. honeycomb crunch (p6).
Best of British
Each time a new book from popular expert Oz Clarke comes
along it provides a great source of wine inspiration (wine-
spiration?). This is certainly the case with his latest, English
Wine (Pavilion £16.99). England now has over 160 wineries
and 750 commercial vineyards, creating around 10 million
bottles a day; Oz calls it ‘the newest New World wine
country’. Quality is certainly high, especially among the
sparklers and still whites, and Oz writes about it all with
his trademark enthusiasm and gusto.
There’s a brief history and guide to styles, but the main
part is a tour of the country’s regions and their top wineries,
with the author’s recommended best buys. The writing
sparkles and delights, much like a glass of south coast fizz.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 85
IF YOU MAKE
ONE PUDDINGÉ
Tart of the month
Seasonal pears are paired with a calvados custard and darkly sweet maple syrup in
this beautiful cover recipe from top Australian chef Emma McCaskill. Heavenly
Pear, maple and • 1 vanilla pod, split lengthways, thick, then use to line the tin, letting
calvados custard tart seeds scraped it overhang the edge. Chill for
COVER SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, • 125g soured cream, plus extra 30 minutes, then use a sharp knife
RECIPE OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 5-12 MIN, PLUS CHILLING to serve (optional) to trim off the excess pastry. Line
AND COOLING • 4 tbsp calvados or brandy (see tips) the pastry with baking paper, then
• 25g unsalted butter, melted and fill with baking beans/rice. Bake for
Begin the recipe at least cooled 15 minutes or until golden at the
MAKE 4 hours before serving so • 1 firm pear, sliced 2mm thick (with edges. Remove the beans/rice and
AHEAD
the tart can chill. The pastry a mandoline ideally), pips removed paper, then bake for 10-12 minutes
dough will keep, wrapped, for 1-2 • 1 tbsp icing sugar more or until the pastry is golden
days in the fridge or you can make • 4 tbsp maple syrup and feels dry and sandy to the touch.
the tart shell up to the end of step 2 Leave to cool. Turn the oven to 160°C/
up to a day before serving. The YOU’LL ALSO NEED… 140°C fan/gas 3 (see Make Ahead).
finished tart will keep chilled in an • 20-22cm loose-bottomed tart tin; 3 For the filling, whisk the eggs,
airtight container for up to 2 days. compostable baking paper; sugars, flour, lemon zest and juice
For a booze-free tart, omit ceramic baking beans or raw rice and vanilla seeds until smooth.
FOOD
TEAM’S the alcohol and use 5 tbsp Whisk in the soured cream, alcohol,
TIPS
water. Lightly whisk the USEFUL TO HAVE 1 tbsp cold water and the melted
unused egg whites with a pinch of • Mandoline; food processor butter (the custard will be loose).
salt, then freeze to use later. Pour into the cooled pastry case,
1 For the pastry, whizz the flour, then arrange the pear slices on top,
FOR THE BROWN SUGAR PASTRY butter, sugar and a pinch of salt to overlapping slightly. Dust with icing
• 150g plain wholemeal flour, plus fine crumbs in a food processor. Add sugar, then bake for 40-45 minutes
PHOTOGRAPHS: BEN DEARNLEY. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS
extra for dusting the egg yolks, then pulse until the or until just set with a slight wobble
• 100g chilled unsalted butter, mixture starts to clump together. in the centre. Leave to cool to room
cubed (Alternatively, put the flour, sugar temperature, then carefully remove
• 55g light soft brown sugar and salt in a bowl and rub in the from the tin and chill until cold.
• 2 medium free-range egg yolks butter with your fingertips until 4 Put the maple syrup in a small
(see tip) crumbs form. Add the yolks and pan over a high heat and cook for
cut in with a butter knife until the 2 minutes or until thickened. Leave
FOR THE CALVADOS CUSTARD FILLING mixture begins to come together.) to cool for 10 minutes, then drizzle
• 2 medium free-range eggs Tip out the dough and shape into over the tart and serve sliced with
• 110g caster sugar a disc. Wrap tightly, then chill for a dollop of soured cream, if you like.
NEXT • 30g light soft brown sugar an hour to rest (see Make Ahead). PER SERVING 397kcals, 19.2g fat
MONTH
• 30g plain flour 2 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ (10.9g saturated), 6g protein,
Sugar and spice
and all things… • Finely grated zest and juice gas 6. Roll out the pastry on a lightly 48.9g carbs (33.3g sugars), 0.1g salt,
Gingerbread ½ lemon floured work surface to 3mm 2.6g fibre
make it special.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 87
A HARVEST
far, far away
The threat posed by a recent oil spill has drawn
the world’s attention to Mauritius – the island
of beaches, palm trees and turquoise waters.
As the clean-up continues, the country’s vital
source of income – sugar – has never been more
important. John Whaite visited at harvest time to follow
the process from cane to soft-flowing bags of ‘special
sugar’ – and create recipes that are a taste of paradise
TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHS ROB STREETER
make it special.
These little sandwich cookies are the Mauritian version of the much-adored 1 To make the dough, put the flour,
jammy dodger. Crumbly-short biscuit encloses a sweet jam and is topped with an sugar and salt in a mixing bowl
even sweeter duvet of icing. Traditionally, the biscuit dough is made using just and toss. Rub in the butter until the
butter and flour, but it’s a little difficult to work with – I’ve opted for an enriched mix resembles fine breadcrumbs.
version using sugar and egg yolk to help bind everything together. Add the egg yolk and cut in with a
dough scraper or butter knife until
Rhubarb and ginger dough stays cool – using short, sharp the mixture starts to clump
napolitaines (Mauritian rolls will help prevent it breaking up. together, then use the heel of your
sandwich biscuits) Lightly whisk the unused egg white hand and fingers to bring it together
MAKES ABOUT 16. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, with a pinch of salt, then freeze. into a smooth dough. Wrap, flatten
OVEN TIME 8-12 MIN, PLUS CHILLING, into a disc, then chill in the fridge
COOLING AND SETTING FOR THE DOUGH for at least 30 minutes (see tips).
• 175g plain flour, plus extra to dust 2 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
Make the dough up to a day • 40g light brown muscovado sugar, gas 6. On a well floured worktop,
MAKE ahead. The biscuits will sifted roll out the dough to about 5mm
AHEAD
keep for up to 2 days. • ½ tsp fine salt thick. Cut out with the cookie
Flatten the dough into a • 130g unsalted butter, cubed and cutter, then re-roll any scraps
FOOD
TEAM’S disc about 2cm thick before at room temperature and repeat. Put the discs on the
TIPS
chilling – you won’t need • 1 large free-range egg yolk baking sheets, spaced well apart.
to roll it for as long. Make sure the (see tips) Bake for 8-12 minutes until lightly
golden around the edges. Leave
RECIPES: JOHN WHAITE. FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE AND SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
TO FINISH to cool on the sheets.
• 16 tsp (about 68g) 3 Take half the biscuits and turn
rhubarb and ginger jam them over. Add 1 tsp jam to each,
(we used Rosebud then top with the remaining
Preserves) biscuits. Set on a wire rack.
• 250g icing sugar 4 For the icing, mix the icing sugar
• Pink food colouring with water, 1 tbsp at a time, until
(optional) you have a thick but pourable icing.
If using food colouring, add just
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… enough for it to blush. Pour the icing
• 5.5cm round cookie over the biscuits, letting it drip
cutter; 2 baking down the sides so it covers the
sheets lined with biscuits (apart from the base, of
compostable course). Allow the icing to set
baking paper before devouring.
PER BISCUIT (FOR 16) 188kcals,
USEFUL TO HAVE… 7.2g fat (4.4g saturated), 1.3g
• Dough scraper protein, 29.3g carbs (20.8g sugars),
0.3g salt, 0.5g fibre
Spiced molasses • Sunflower oil to drizzle salt. Set over a high heat and stir
chicken wings with • 120g molasses sugar as the mixture comes to the boil.
mango salad • 1 tbsp cider vinegar As soon as it does, remove it from
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, • 2 tbsp light soy sauce the heat and pour into a bowl.
OVEN TIME 50-55 MIN • 30g fresh ginger, grated 4 Once the chicken has roasted,
• ½ tsp chilli flakes remove it from the oven and turn up
Assemble the salad up to a the heat to 240°C/220°C fan/gas 8.
MAKE day ahead and chill, covered, 1 For the salad, mix the mango, Using tongs, dip hot wings in the
AHEAD
until ready to serve. cucumber, onion, ginger, chilli, glaze one at a time, coating each as
sugar, vinegar and a pinch of salt liberally as possible, then setting it
FOR THE SALAD in a large bowl. Cover with a plate, back on the tray. Return the tray to
• 150g firm mango, peeled, stoned then chill until ready to serve (see the oven to roast for 5-10 minutes
and finely sliced Make Ahead). more until the wings are dark and
• 150g cucumber, finely sliced 2 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ crispy on the outside. Keep any
• ½ small red onion, finely sliced gas 4. Put the chicken wings on a leftover glaze for drizzling. Remove
• 25g fresh ginger, grated baking tray, drizzle with a little oil the chicken from the oven and serve
• 1 red chilli, very finely sliced and sprinkle with salt. Cook for it with the cool salad, drizzled with
• 2 tsp golden caster sugar 45 minutes until lightly golden. extra glaze if you like.
• 1 tbsp cider vinegar 3 Meanwhile, make the glaze: put PER SERVING 559kcals, 26.2g fat
the molasses sugar, vinegar and soy (5.8g saturated), 38.7g protein,
FOR THE CHICKEN sauce in a small pan. Add the ginger, 40.9g carbs (39.5g sugars),
• 1kg free-range chicken wings chilli flakes and a small pinch of 2.1g salt, 2.2g fibre →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93
Puits d’amour 1 First, make the crème pâtissière: under the grill until darkly
(wells of love) put the milk and vanilla in a small caramelised – just the one side
MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 55 MIN, saucepan and set aside until is fine (see Make Ahead).
OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN, PLUS CHILLING needed. Put the 60g sugar, egg 6 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
yolks and cornflour in a heatproof gas 6. Dust the work surface
Make the crème pâtissière mixing bowl and whisk vigorously generously with flour, then roll out
MAKE and the pastry up to using a balloon whisk for to 3mm thick. Cut out 12 discs large
AHEAD
a day ahead, then assemble 1-2 minutes until pale and fluffy. enough to line the holes of a 12-hole
to bake. Keep the baked tarts Put the milk over a high heat and muffin tin. Line each hole in the tin
somewhere cool in an airtight allow it to come to the boil, then with a pastry disc and put 3 slices of
container for up to 2 days. pour it onto the eggs in a thin banana in the bottom of each. Take
Flatten the dough into a stream while whisking constantly. the crème pâtissière out of the
FOOD
TEAM’S disc about 2cm thick before 2 When the egg and milk mixtures fridge, transfer it to a mixing bowl
TIP
chilling – you won’t need are well combined, pour them back and beat vigorously with a wooden
to roll it for as long. Make sure the into the pan while off the heat, then spoon until it’s much looser.
dough stays cool – using short, return to a medium-high heat and 7 Divide the crème pâtissière
sharp rolls will help prevent it whisk constantly and vigorously among the pastry cases and level
from breaking up. as the mixture thickens. You must it off with a spoon as best you can.
ensure the whisk touches the bottom Bake for 25-30 minutes until the
FOR THE CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE of the pan at all times. Once the pastry is golden and the crème
• 250ml whole milk mixture is very thick (this will take pâtissière is swollen with a dark
• 1 tsp vanilla extract 2-3 minutes), remove the pan from patch on top. Remove from the oven
• 60g caster sugar the heat and pour it onto a lipped and allow to cool completely before
• 2 large free-range egg yolks plate. Cover with damp compostable removing from the muffin tin.
(save the whites for the meringue) baking paper, ensuring it’s touching 8 For the meringue, put the egg
• 20g cornflour the surface of the custard to stop whites and sugar into a heatproof
a skin forming. Chill until cold bowl and set over a pan of barely
FOR THE PASTRY (see Make Ahead). simmering water. Using an electric
• 125g unsalted butter, at room 3 For the pastry, put the butter and hand mixer, whisk the sugar and
temperature 50g sugar in a mixing bowl and beat whites until you have a very thick,
• 50g caster sugar together with an electric hand mixer smooth and glossy meringue – it’ll
• 1 medium free-range egg or a wooden spoon for a couple of take a good 5 minutes. Remove from
• 200g plain flour, plus extra for minutes until soft. You can simply the heat and whisk for a minute
dusting add the egg and whisk with the more to cool and reach stiff peaks
• ½ tsp fine salt mixer, but the mixture will probably (when you lift the whisk out, the
split at this point. While that’s okay, peak won’t droop to one side).
FOR THE BANANAS I like to try to get it to emulsify, so 9 When the tarts have cooled, top
• 2 bananas put the bowl over a pan of barely them with the meringue. While a
• 3 tbsp icing sugar simmering water as you whisk and rustic approach of simply dolloping
everything should come together to the meringue on top with a spoon is
FOR THE MERINGUE form a smooth, thick emulsion. delightful, I prefer a neater method,
• 2 large free-range egg whites (Don’t let the bowl linger over the so I use a piping bag and 20mm plain
(from the crème pâtissière above) water, however, as the last thing you nozzle to pipe little domes onto each
• 120g caster sugar want is to scramble the egg.) tart. Put the coconut into a shallow
• 3 tbsp desiccated coconut 4 Add the flour and salt, then cut bowl and delicately dip each
(optional) everything together using a dough meringue-topped tart in the coconut,
scraper or butter knife. As soon as covering the top entirely. Or, if you
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… the mixture starts to clump, tip it don’t have any coconut, you could
• Electric hand mixer; 12-hole onto a piece of cling film, bring it brown the meringue with a cook’s
muffin tin; 8-9cm round together into a smooth ball, then blowtorch (as in the picture, right)
cookie cutter shape into a disc. Wrap it up and or flash the tarts in a medium oven
chill for at least 2 hours (see tip and for 5 minutes as you would with
USEFUL TO HAVE… Make Ahead). a lemon meringue pie.
• Compostable baking paper; 5 Heat the grill to high. Slice the PER TART 317kcals, 13.9g fat
dough scraper; piping bag bananas into 5mm discs. Put them (8.5g saturated), 5.6g protein,
with a 20mm plain nozzle; on a baking sheet and dust liberally 41.6g carbs (27g sugars), 0.3g salt,
cook’s blowtorch with icing sugar. Toast the bananas 1.6g fibre
make it special.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 95
THE FAMILY BAKE
GIANT
JAFFA CAKE This cake has it all: a light-as-air sponge base, a zingy orange jelly
layer and a generous chocolate topping. Even better, our recipe creates
a supersized version of a classic tea-time treat. What’s not to love?
The recipe and 30cm diameter (measured wire rack to cool completely, then
CROWD SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, across the top) non-stick put on a serving plate.
ovenproof frying pan; compostable 4 Once the jelly has set, make the
PLEASER OVEN TIME 20-25 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
baking paper; cling film; electric topping. Put the dark and milk
Start the recipe a day hand mixer chocolate in a heatproof bowl and
MAKE
AHEAD ahead of time or at least set it over a pan of steaming, not
7 hours before serving to 1 Grease the cake tin and frying simmering, water (don’t let the bowl
allow time for the finished cake pan, then line the cake tin with cling touch the water). Leave to melt
to set fully. It will keep well in film and the bottom of the frying slowly without stirring. As soon as
an airtight container, stored pan with baking paper. Put the jelly the chocolate has melted, remove it
somewhere cool. in a heatproof bowl and pour over from the heat and leave to stand for
the boiling water. Gently stir until 15-20 minutes until lukewarm.
FOR THE JELLY LAYER completely dissolved, then pour 5 Using the cling film to help you, lift
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE
• 135g pack orange jelly cubes into the lined cake tin and put in the out the jelly and flip it over on top of
• 250ml boiling water fridge to set for at least 1-2 hours. the cake. Peel off the cling film, then
2 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ quickly and carefully spread the
FOR THE SPONGE gas 4. Put the butter and sugar cooled chocolate over the jelly and
• 190g unsalted butter, softened, in a large mixing bowl and use an cake to cover. Chill the cake in the
plus extra to grease electric hand mixer to beat them fridge for 15 minutes straightaway
• 190g caster sugar together until light and creamy. Add to prevent the jelly melting.
• 3 medium free-range eggs, the beaten eggs a little at a time, 6 After 15 minutes when the
beaten whisking in between additions until chocolate is starting to set, use a
• 190g self-raising flour fully incorporated. Sift in the flour, palette knife to make lines: quickly
• Finely grated zest ½ orange then use a metal spoon to fold dip the long edge of the knife in
plus 1 tbsp juice everything together. Stir in the the chocolate and lift it straight up.
orange zest and juice. Repeat to make several lines, then
FOR THE TOPPING 3 Use a spatula to scrape the batter make another series of lines at
• 100g dark chocolate, at least 70%, into the frying pan and smooth it 90 degrees to the first. Chill again
roughly chopped level. Bake on the middle shelf of in the fridge for at least 5 hours or
• 100g milk chocolate, roughly the oven for 20-25 minutes until overnight (see Make Ahead).
chopped risen and golden and a skewer PER SERVING 382kcals, 19.6g fat
comes out clean when pushed into (11.7g saturated), 5.3g protein,
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… the centre. Run a knife around the 45.7g carbs (33.4g sugars),
• 23cm non-stick shallow cake tin edge of the cake, turn it out onto a 1.2g salt, 0.1g fibre
make it special.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 97
BITE-SIZE BREAK
A tasteful staycation
ALL MANOR WHY IT’S GREAT WHERE YOU STAY restaurants. You’ll dine there in
OF DELIGHTS
(CLOCKWISE FROM
If you cancelled your big summer They’ve managed to create a the rustic new Smoke restaurant,
ABOVE) Arts and hol abroad this year, how about funked-up feel in the Arts and tastefully converted from an
Crafts elements treating yourself to a quick hit of Crafts-era house with mid-century outbuilding, or in one of the
are treated to luxury in the heart of England? furniture, but haven’t sacrificed the revamped vintage greenhouses
mid-century
accents in the Hampton Manor, set in 45 acres in wood panelling, original tiled floors adjacent to it, with lots of space.
décor; the the village of Hampton-in-Arden and other period details to achieve The food is hearty-meaty – think
entrance to the on the Warwickshire borders, has it. Rooms are individually designed groan-inducing 12-hour beef
walled garden;
Peel’s restaurant
created a laid-back, two-night and have bold, deep colours, brisket finished in the smoker, with
lets ingredients package for food and drink lovers. William Morris wallpaper here and heritage beetroot and crusty-chewy
set the tone; the With only 19 rooms, that’s more there, and big, comfy beds. A nice homemade sourdough. Afterwards,
airy Nyetimber than an acre each to wallow in. touch: coffee beans and a grinder warm yourself by the firepits and
Summer House
and cosy rooms The former estate of prime to make your own fresh brew. toast some marshmallows.
in the Grade II minister Sir Robert Peel, it’s owned The Michelin-starred Peel’s
listed building and run by the Hill family, who live EATING restaurant in the main house is
are surrounded
just outside the grounds, and it feels On your first night, stroll down the setting for Saturday night’s
by 45 acres
a bit like coming to an exclusive to the beautifully restored Victorian four-course set menu. It’s exciting
house party for the weekend (albeit walled garden, stocked with food, going big on extracting the
with a bill at the end of it). fruit and veg that supply the flavour from a key ingredient rather
98 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
hungry traveller.
than throwing too much on the the celebrated English sparkler of drop). After dinner, the estimable
plate. ‘Tomato’ featured smoked the same name to start your stay whisky collection gets an airing too.
turbot roe in a tomato broth which with a pop.
exploded with flavour; ‘Potato’ The hotel has also embraced the OUT AND ABOUT
(which sounds uncannily like a natural wine revolution (don’t In your room is a ‘field map’ of the
Blackadder episode) caused a worry, none of them tastes like area with walk options. The longest
reassessment of something cider) with an interesting collection takes a couple of hours through
regarded by many as mere filler. of world-spanning bottles, ordered rolling fields and along a carp lake,
Breakfasts are leisurely and by style (dry, fruity) rather than where you might find competitive
include a good, not-too-sweet grape or country. The reason anglers hauling in their catch.
homemade granola and, as well becomes clear at the wine tasting Make it even more leisurely by
as the usual suspects (full English, James Hill conducts on Saturday stopping for a pint from the local
eggs benedict), the options of a afternoon. It will attune you to Purity Brewing Co at friendly
plate of British cured meats or what natural wine is all about, and wood-beamed pub The Bulls Head.
a satisfying bacon roll (with, his evangelical charm may even
controversially to some, homemade convert you to the cause. COST
brown sauce and ketchup). At cocktail hour, bring your own From £720 for two for Tuesday and
vinyl or use the hotel’s collection to Wednesday or Friday and Saturday
DRINKING spin Eighties tunes on the turntable nights, with breakfast and dinner
When you arrive, you’re invited to in the parlour when the gins come each day (four-course set menu in
WORDS: LES DUNN
hang out in the pretty, leafy and out to play (the golden, barrel-aged Peel’s; six courses and wine flights
flower-filled Nyetimber Summer Wasted Cascara, made at Piston available for a supplement). Wine
House (this is where breakfast is Gin in Worcester to Hampton tasting and garden tour included.
served, too) and enjoy a glass of Manor’s recipe, is an intriguing hamptonmanor.com
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Food, for me, is a constant pleasure:
NIGELLA PORTRAIT: MATT HOLYOAK
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 101
“I hope one day
everyone will be
able to experience
the food of Gaza”
For most of us, plentiful food is one of the many things we’re lucky
enough to take for granted. World Food Day on 16 October is a moment
to reflect on the hardships many experience in getting enough to eat –
and to appreciate how vital food is to our sense of connectedness. Chef
and TV presenter John Gregory-Smith travelled to Gaza and found
a vibrant food culture, thriving in the most testing conditions
world view.
H
ere I am in Khan Yunis, along the great trading routes that
a city in the south of the connect Africa and Asia. Over the
Gaza Strip, one of the years, it has soaked up the flavours
most closed-off parts of the world. of different cultures, giving it
I’ve come to see the extraordinary a unique palette of its own.
work the World Food Programme
does here. Two million people live A MISSION WITH REWARDS
in an area of less than 400 square I never fail to be astounded by how
kilometres and the charity feeds unifying food can be. It’s been
270,000 of them every day. Around quite a journey for me to get into
80 per cent of the families the charity Gaza – getting permission to cross
assists receive vouchers they can FOR RICHER
RICHER, FOR
exchange for food from around 200 POORER Gaza
d k 10
I’m sitting at the dining table with Laila
and her wonderful family. We’re tucking into a
rather splendid lunch of red lentil and chard soup
spiked with fiery chillies and garlic, and a zesty
tomato salad called dagga. It’s heavy with dill
and lemon juice. Some of the soup has been
spooned over little pieces of slightly dry, day-old
pitta bread. The bread mellows in the piping hot
soup… It tastes divine, and is such a clever way
to ensure that nothing goes to waste.
bomb-proof Toyotas, complete with to store or treat sewage in Gaza,
inch-thick glass windows and so it goes straight into the sea.
impenetrable locks. The doors are It helps to explain why the beach
so heavy that I have to use both is empty. I leg it back to the car
hands just to pull them open, but with my fruit, the sweet perfumed
the transport is a requirement for scent of the guava acting as
all foreign nationals given access to a natural air freshener.
travel around the region. Egyptian
pop music blasts out of the stereo REMARKABLE FOOD
as we drive along the coast and The next day we’re up early to have
back to Gaza City. We pass miles breakfast at Akeeleh, an old
of sandy beaches that are bizarrely houmous shop on the side of
empty. In a place so densely Azaweya Market in the old city.
populated, it’s strange to see so Houmous is traditional Palestinian
much unused space. fare and has a fiercely protected
I spot a little stall selling fresh heritage. In the café they sell three
guava. We pull over and, using my types: original; musabaha, which
leg, I heave open the heavy door. has whole chickpeas mixed in; and
The stench of sewage hits me, and ful, a darker dish made with fava
my driver explains there’s nowhere beans. I buy several of each, as well
104 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
world view.
If you’re vegetarian/vegan,
EASY add roasted aubergine
SWAPS
instead of the prawns.
• 450g raw peeled king prawns cook, stirring occasionally, for cook for 3-4 minutes until they’re
• Juice ½ lemon 6-8 minutes until golden and soft. pink and cooked through. Squeeze
• 15g toasted pine nuts Add the garlic/chilli paste and in the lemon juice, stir and check
• Brown rice to serve stir-fry for 10 seconds until it the seasoning. Scatter over the pine
begins to smell fragrant. nuts and the remaining dill and
USEFUL TO HAVE 3 Add the tomatoes to the pan and serve immediately with brown rice.
• Pestle and mortar or mini cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-5 PER SERVING 202kcals, 9.3g fat
processor minutes until they’ve broken down. (1.2g saturated), 22.1g protein,
NEXT Next add the spices, tomato purée 6.2g carbs (5.3g sugars), 0.6g salt,
MONTH
1 Blend the garlic, chilli and most and 100ml of just-boiled water from 2.6g fibre
Secrets from
the delicious. of the dill to a paste with a pestle the kettle, then mix well. Cover the For more ways to use ground
test kitchen and mortar or in a mini processor, pan, turn the heat to low and cook allspice, see Loose Ends
106 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
thick icelandic
style
yogurt
for your records.
OC T OBE R 2 02 0
RECIPE INDEX
65 86 72
STARTERS, NIBBLES, SIDES • Salmon and minted pea filo • Stuffed baby pumpkins with preserved
& OTHERS parcels 56 lemon 65
• Double-baked mushroom soufflés 72 • Sardine fishcakes with chilli • Super-meaty spag bol 42
• Mary Berry’s best roasties 73 corn salsa 28
• Rough puff pastry 55 • Spicy prawn tomato stew SWEET THINGS
(zibdiyit gambari) 106 • Chocolate honeycomb crunch 7
MAIN COURSES • The ultimate fish pie 53 • Chocolate steamed pudding with
BEEF, LAMB, PORK, GAME & POULTRY chocolate sauce 74
• Bacon-wrapped chicken VEGETARIAN, VEGAN & VEG-BASED • Giant Jaffa Cake 96
with roast caponata 31 • Frying-pan samosa pie 38 • Kulfi-inspired ice cream sundae 82
• Chilli pork and pineapple rice • Greek-style one-pot with courgette • Maple and spice pumpkin pie 66
bowl 32 dumplings 32 • Pear, maple & calvados
• Lamb meatball biryani 82 • Halloumi and charred hispi cabbage custard tart 86
• Roast chicken with tarragon with beetroot and tahini slaw 32 • Puits d’amour (wells of love) 94
butter and melting onions 72 • Pumpkin risotto with corn and • Rhubarb and ginger Napolitaines
• Spiced molasses chicken ricotta 65 (Mauritian sandwich biscuits) 92
wings with mango salad 93 • Quick tandoori kebabs 38 • Salted toffee apples 7
• Roasted cherry tomato and tarragon
FISH & SEAFOOD spaghetti 31
• Baked salmon with pea guacamole • Spice-roasted pumpkin soup with
and smashed new potatoes 26 macadamia nut dukkah 60
• Hot and sour curried cod pie 55 • Spicy dan dan noodles 40
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108 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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10 What weight of fresh
9 44 10 curious fruit or veg counts as
questions one of your five-a-day?
44 44 44 44 11 44 44 44
BY QUIZ-MEISTER a) 60g
HUGH THOMPSON
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c) 100g
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44 44 16 44 44 44 What fruit is known as
apple of the Orient?
7 A classic Mai tai cocktail
PRIZE CROSSWORD NO. 21
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a) Persimmon contains rum and what
44 44 44 44 44 b) Nectarine other spirit?
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Complete the puzzle, take a picture and email it to 2 You’d find it in a kitchen,
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7 Yeast will do this to bread and baking powder will do it to sponges (5)
Gado-gado and
4
8 Old name for pulses, typically cooked into a pudding or porridge (5)
9 Essential mineral once added to table salt (6) Which is the most grown rendang are national
10 Deposits of yeasts and sediments in wine (4) wine grape variety? dishes from which country?
12 Herb – member of the mint family, often used to flavour butter sauce (4) a) Cabernet sauvignon a) Vietnam
CROSSWORD AND QUIZ COMPILED BY HUGH THOMPSON. CRYPTIC CLUE SET BY LES DUNN
14 Sweet smelling plant, also a soothing ointment (6) b) Merlot b) Indonesia
17 Armed forces association responsible for clubs and cafeterias (5) c) Chardonnay c) South Korea
18 Spanish for donkey – the diminutive is a popular Mexican dish (5)
as Gentleman’s Relish) 6) b 7) a 8) Houses of Parliament 9) b 10) b
19 Whipped cream dessert flavoured with wine or sherry (8) QUIZ ANSWERS: 1) a (also called sharon fruit) 2) c 3) c 4) a 5) c (known
DOWN JULY CROSSWORD ANSWERS Apologies – these were omitted from last month:
PRIZE CROSSWORD SOLUTION NO. 18: ACROSS 1 Rosemary 7 Umami 8 Lunch
9 Entree 10 Chap 12 Game 14 Barrel 17 Navel 18 Stout 19 Sea trout DOWN 1 Roast
*ENTRY CLOSES 31 OCTOBER 2020. FOR TS&CS SEE P108
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3 Bright yellow UK crop, used to make oil (4)
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13 An essential part of the roast dinner (5) gardentrading.co.uk, solve the
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114 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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