Adafruit Proto Shield Arduino

Adafruit Proto Shield for Arduino
Created by lady ada
Last updated on 2018-08-22 03:34:09 PM UTC

Guide Contents
Guide Contents 2
Overview 3
Make it! 6
Lets go! 6
Preparation 7
Prep 7
Tools 7
Parts list 12
Parts List 12
Optional parts 12
Solder it! 13
Soldering with Stacking Headers 13
Installing plain headers 20
Installing Extras 25
Installing Capacitors 25
Installing Buttons 27
Installing LEDs 28
SPI/ICSP Connector 33
5-Pin power rail connections 35
Download 38
Files 38
Schematic 38
Fabrication Print 38
© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 2 of 39

Overview
This prototyping shield is the best out there (well, we think so, at least), and now is even better with Version R3 -
updated for the most compatibility with just about all the Arduinos!
It works with UNO, Mega, Leonardo, NG, Diecimila, Duemilanove, and compatible Arduinos. Yun's and Arduino
Ethernets have a chunky Ethernet jack that gets in the way of stacking, you can use the stacking headers included and
it will work, just doesn't sit nice and flat.
Check out these awesome specifications:
It has a nice standard 0.1"x0.1" prototying grid with big pads

Comes with Stacking headers and plain header, choose whichever you want when soldering together
A IC pattern for adding DIP ICs up to 20 pins
Power rails down the middle and sides
A reset button and an extra general use button
2 3mm general use LEDs, red and green, as well as 2 matching resistors
A pass-thru ICSP stacking header so you can stack any kind of shield on top, and/or use an AVR programmer
A surface-mount chip area for up to 14 SOIC size parts
Compatible with tiny breadboards
Every pin is brought out!
Gold plated pads
2 x 0.1uF capacitors on either side for extra power stability

Pair with a tiny breadboard for a cute stand-alone prototyping setup!
Larger breadboard for tons of working space!

2 LEDs and one button are availble for general purpose use!

Make it!
Lets go!
This is a very easy kit to make, just go through each of these steps to build the kit.
1. Tools and preparation (https://adafru.it/cEL)

2. Check the parts list (https://adafru.it/cEM)
3. Solder it (https://adafru.it/cEN)

Preparation
Prep
Learn how to solder with tons of tutorials! (https://adafru.it/aTk)
Don't forget to learn how to use your multimeter too! (https://adafru.it/aZZ)
Tools
There are a few tools that are required for assembly. None of these tools are included. If you don't have them, now
would be a good time to borrow or purchase them. They are very very handy whenever assembling/fixing/modifying
electronic devices! I provide links to buy them, but of course, you should get them whereever is most
convenient/inexpensive. Many of these parts are available in a place like Radio Shack or other (higher quality) DIY
electronics stores.
Soldering iron
Any entry level 'all-in-one' soldering iron that you might

find at your local hardware store should work. As with
most things in life, you get what you pay for.
Upgrading to a higher end soldering iron setup, like the

Hakko FX-888 that we stock in our
store (http://adafru.it/180), will make soldering fun and
easy.
Do not use a "ColdHeat" soldering iron! They are not

suitable for delicate electronics work and can damage
the kit (see here (https://adafru.it/aOo)).
Click here to buy our entry level adjustable 30W 110V

soldering iron (http://adafru.it/180).
Click here to upgrade to a Genuine Hakko FX-888

adjustable temperature soldering
iron. (http://adafru.it/303)

Solder
You will want rosin core, 60/40 solder. Good solder is a

good thing. Bad solder leads to bridging and cold solder
joints which can be tough to find.
Click here to buy a spool of leaded solder

(recommended for beginners) (http://adafru.it/145).
Click here to buy a spool of lead-free

solder (http://adafru.it/734).

Multimeter
You will need a good quality basic multimeter that can

measure voltage and continuity.
Click here to buy a basic multimeter. (http://adafru.it/71)
Click here to buy a top of the line

multimeter. (http://adafru.it/308)
Click here to buy a pocket

multimeter. (http://adafru.it/850)

Flush Diagonal Cutters
You will need flush diagonal cutters to trim the wires

and leads off of components once you have soldered
them in place.
Click here to buy our favorite

cutters (http://adafru.it/152).
Solder Sucker
Strangely enough, that's the technical term for this

desoldering vacuum tool. Useful in cleaning up
mistakes, every electrical engineer has one of these on
their desk.
Click here to buy a one (http://adafru.it/148).
Helping Third Hand With Magnifier
Not absolutely necessary but will make things go much

much faster, and it will make soldering much easier.
Pick one up here (http://adafru.it/291).

Parts list
Parts List
Image Name Description Information & Distributor Qty

Printed circuit board Adafruit 1
LED1 3mm Red LED Generic 1
LED2 3mm Green LED Generic 1

470-1.0K Resistors for LED
R1 R2 Generic 2
Carbon 5% 1/4W
RESET S1 6mm tact switch Generic 2

C1 C2 0.1uF 50V ceramic capacitor Generic 2
8 pin female 0.1" header (1x8) Generic 2
5 pin female 0.1" header (1x6) Generic 2
36 pin male 0.1" header (1x36) Generic 1
Optional parts
Image Description Distributor

Small breadboard (300 tie points).
Adafruit
This is a little more practical than the larger
'standard' ones.
Tiny breadboard (170 tie points).
Adafruit
You can use the 5 pin female headers (1x5) a
with 'tiny' breadboard as 'end rails.'

Solder it!
Time to solder the kit together! If you've never soldered before, check the Preparation page for tutorials and
more. (https://adafru.it/aZW)
First, check that you have all the parts! Look over the
parts list here (https://adafru.it/aZX) and shown on the
left.
Since we released the R3 version we now include

stacking headers! The PCB is slightly different to break
out all of the Arduino pins, and the 2x3 ICSP header is
now part of the stacking kit
Soldering with Stacking Headers

Stacking headers are included with the R3 Proto Shield. They let you stack another shield on top but are not as strong
as the non-stacking headers. Also they are taller. If you aren't planning on stacking another Shield on top, we do
recommend going with the plain headers as they're smaller and more durable.
Start by placing the shield in a holder as shown, you

shouldn't see the large Adafruit logo (its on the bottom)
Then slide the 6, 8 and 10 pin headers into the outside

rows of the shield as shown. You will likely have an
extra two stacking parts, just put those aside for now.

Now carefully plug the unsoldered headers into a spare
Arduino. Make sure all of the long pins plug into the
sockets on the side of the Arduino. There will be a gap
between the shield and Arduino and the Printed Circuit
Board will be loose
Flip over the Arduino and place it flat on the table so

that the PCB sits flat against the stacky headers and the
stacky headers are flat against the table

Now from above, solder the two end pins a stacky
header to the PCB. You don't have to do a great job
soldering, just make sure it's tacked together.

Continue with the other header

Flip around and do the other two headers

Carefully remove the shield from the Arduino and insert
into your vise with the ends of the stacking header
pointing up
Now that you have aligned the stacky headers using an

Arduino it's easy to finish the job
Solder the remaining header pins, including the two end

pins just to make sure they are super solidly soldered :)

When done, check your work, make sure each pin is
soldered with a nice shiny solder connection
Installing plain headers

If you want to install the plain header rather than stacking headers, follow this part:

Grab a plain Arduino

Next its time to make the male headers from the long
strip. use diagonal cutters or pliers to clip off 4 parts, one
6-pin, two 8-pin, and one 10-pin

Place the pieces of header into the Arduino so the long
pins are in the side sockets and the short pins stick up
Place the PCB on top of the Arduino so the short pins

stick through the rows of pads on either side
Solder all of the pads!

Check your work! Make sure every point is nice and
shiny
Installing Extras
The Proto Shield comes with some extras like 2 buttons, 2 capacitors and a red/green LED set. These aren't essential
but you may want to have them installed! Here's how you go about doing it!
Installing Capacitors
There's two spots for 0.1uF ceramic capacitors. These

are nice little additions that help keep your 5V power-
supply clean
Place the two ceramic capacitors in the spots shown.

They are symmetric so you don't have to worry about
putting them in backwards.

Bend the two little capacitor leads out so that you can
flip over the PCB without the caps falling out

Solder each of the 4 leads
Check your work!

Then clip the leads short using a pair of diagonal cutters
Installing Buttons
There's two optional buttons you can solder into your Proto Shield. One is connected to the Arduino reset pin so you
can quickly reset your Arduino. One is not connected to any pin, you can solder a wire from it to any other Arduino pin
Snap the two buttons into the top corner of the PCB.
They will snap into place and sit flat against the PCB.
They are symmetric so you can insert them 'either way'

Flip over the board and solder the 4 pads of each button

Check your work to make sure the solder points are
nice and shiny...you're done!
Installing LEDs
Next it's time to place the two 3mm LEDs. LEDs are
directional, and if you put them in backwards they wont
work.
LEDs have a positive lead and a negative lead. The

positive lead is longer.
On the Proto Shield PCB, you'll see a circle indicating

where the LED goes, and a small + sign. That's the
indicator for which pad gets the longer leg of the LED

Next to the red LED you can bend one of the 1K ohm
resistors over and insert it in the O- shaped silkscreen
pads to the left
Resistors do not have a direction, so they can be

installed either way.
Next insert the small green LED between the two

buttons. Like the red LED, check for the tiny + symbol on
the PCB, aand place the longer leg of the LED into this
pad.
Then insert the other 1K resistor into the 0- marked spot

right next to it
On the Proto Shield PCB, you'll see a circle indicating where the LED goes, and a small + sign. That's the indicator for
which pad gets the longer leg of the LED

Bend out the leads of the LEDs and resistors so they sit
flat againt the PCB
Flip over the PCB in your vise
Solder in all the legs of the LEDs and resistors.
When done, check your work!

Clip all the leads down so that the long wires are no
longer than the solder points
If you want to use the red and green LEDs or the

general purpose button, simply solder solid-gauge wire
(~22awg is good) into the large solder holes near the
device. Then you can plug the other end of the wire like
a jumper into any of the female headers. The two LEDs
are tied to ground through 1K or 1.5K resistors. The
button simply connects the jumper to ground when
pressed (use an internal or external pull-up). Check the
schematic on the download page for specific details.

SPI/ICSP Connector
If you need to stack with a board that uses hardware SPI, or maybe you want to reprogram your Arduino with an AVR
programmer, you'll want access to the 2x3 pin SPI/ICSP connector.
Grab the 6-pin stacking ICSP header and plug it into the
header on your Arduino
Plug the shield on top so that the 6 pins go through the

matching holes in the PCB

Solder all 6 pads
You're done!
5-Pin power rail connections

If you're using the proto shield with a tiny breadboard you may want to solder in the two 5-pin headers to the 5V and
GND rails near the end of the Proto Shield, its pretty easy!

Place the two non-stacking 5-pin headers into the
matching slots on the right hand side of the PCB. Use
tape to keep them in place
Flip over the board. Use more tape if you need to keep
the headers from sliding out

Solder all the pads!
Check your work, make sure all the pins are solidly
attached

Download
Files
EagleCAD PCB Files on GitHub (https://adafru.it/pBu)
Fritzing object in Adafruit Fritzing library (https://adafru.it/c7M) (schematic view not functional, use for
diagramming only!)
Schematic
Fabrication Print

© Adafruit Industries Last Updated: 2018-08-22 03:34:04 PM UTC Page 39 of 39

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Adafruit Proto Shield Arduino

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Adafruit Proto Shield for Arduino

Created by lady ada

Last updated on 2018-08-22 03:34:09 PM UTC

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 2 of 39

Check out these awesome specifications:

It has a nice standard 0.1"x0.1" prototying grid with big pads

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 3 of 39

Larger breadboard for tons of working space!

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 4 of 39

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 5 of 39

1. Tools and preparation (https://adafru.it/cEL)

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 6 of 39

Any entry level 'all-in-one' soldering iron that you might

Upgrading to a higher end soldering iron setup, like the

Do not use a "ColdHeat" soldering iron! They are not

Click here to buy our entry level adjustable 30W 110V

Click here to upgrade to a Genuine Hakko FX-888

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 7 of 39

You will want rosin core, 60/40 solder. Good solder is a

Click here to buy a spool of leaded solder

Click here to buy a spool of lead-free

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 8 of 39

You will need a good quality basic multimeter that can

Click here to buy a basic multimeter. (http://adafru.it/71)

Click here to buy a top of the line

Click here to buy a pocket

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 9 of 39

You will need flush diagonal cutters to trim the wires

Click here to buy our favorite

Strangely enough, that's the technical term for this

Click here to buy a one (http://adafru.it/148).

Helping Third Hand With Magnifier

Not absolutely necessary but will make things go much

Pick one up here (http://adafru.it/291).

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 10 of 39

Image Name Description Information & Distributor Qty

LED1 3mm Red LED Generic 1

LED2 3mm Green LED Generic 1

RESET S1 6mm tact switch Generic 2

36 pin male 0.1" header (1x36) Generic 1

Image Description Distributor

Tiny breadboard (170 tie points).

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 11 of 39

Since we released the R3 version we now include

Soldering with Stacking Headers

Start by placing the shield in a holder as shown, you

Then slide the 6, 8 and 10 pin headers into the outside

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 12 of 39

Flip over the Arduino and place it flat on the table so

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 13 of 39

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 14 of 39

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 15 of 39

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 16 of 39

Now that you have aligned the stacky headers using an

Solder the remaining header pins, including the two end

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 17 of 39

Installing plain headers

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 19 of 39

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-shield-arduino Page 20 of 39