JMK, VOL. 18, NO. 1, MARET 2016, 1–15 DOI: 10.9744/jmk.18.1.

1–15
ISSN 1411-1438 print / ISSN 2338-8234 online

THE INCREASING PHENOMENON OF SECOND-HAND CLOTHES

PURCHASE: INSIGHTS FROM THE LITERATURE

Halimin Herjanto1*, Jean Scheller-Sampson1, Elisabeth Erickson1

1
McKendree University School of Business, McKendree University
701 College Road, Lebanon, IL 62254
* Correspnding author; Email: [email protected]

Abstract

The global trend of second-hand clothing (SHC) consumption is significantly increasing and un-
stoppable. This trend has made, and will continue to make, a huge impact in the clothing industry in virtually
every part of the world. However, the number of studies on SHC are still limited and more importantly, the
findings are mixed and inconclusive. This study investigates the trend in SHC research between 1990 and
2014. 131 published academic articles from different disciplines were collected and content analyzed and the
results indicate that SHC research was highly focused on the topics of consumption behavior, textile disposal
behavior, and SHC trading related issues. In addition, the results also show that SHC research was mainly
conducted from the consumers’ point of view. With the increasing interest in SHC, this study attempts to
develop a better understanding of SHC phenomena and provide clear future research directions to scholars in
designing SHC related research.

Keywords: Second-hand consumption, consumption behavior, disposal behavior, content analysis.

Introduction backgrounds (Hansen, 2000) and classes (Milgram,

2012), including artists (Apatoff, 2014) and high pro-
In modern society, the wearers of the clothes are file individuals (Huffpost, 2013) such as expats, tou-
now subject to society’s scrutiny and approval or dis- rists, and royal family members (Besnier, 2004) buy
approval (Hansen, 2000). Approval supports indivi- and wear SHC comfortably. This trend suggests that
duals’ self-image (Kressmann et al., 2006), self-love SHC offer something of value to everyone (Besnier,
(Sontag & Lee, 2004), comfort (De Klerk & Tselepis, 2004) and therefore has boosted the number of se-
2007) and positive emotion experience (Kang, Kim, cond-hand retailers (Ward, 2011). In an effort to fully
& Kim, 2013). Such contemporary motivations en- understand the SHC phenomenon, scholars in the fa-
courage the desire for approval (Brooks, 2012) and shion and marketing disciplines have investigated the
the purchase of more clothes (Rahman, Jiang & Liu, issues in terms of both internal and external compo-
2010). As a consequence, global textiles and the clo- nents (Walter, 2008). Internal components include
thing business are worth nearly USD $3,000 trillion economic factors (Baden & Barber, 2005), social fac-
dollars (Business 2 Community, 2015). Despite this tors (Beard, 2008), psychological factors (Castillo,
significant figure, Wright (2014) argues that in fact, 2014), demographic factors (Bianchi & Birtwistle,
the global clothing industry has failed to reach its 2012; Birtwistle & Moore, 2007), and culture (Na’-
maximum sales potential. This failure is a result of the amneh & Al Huban, 2012). External components, on
global economic recession (Wright, 2014) and politi- the other hand, include recycle facilities (Abimola,
cal instability (Hansen, 1999). As a response to these 2012), government regulations (Haggblade,
factors, consumers’ have developed a higher appre- 1990), and distribution channels (Mhango &
ciation of the value of reusable clothes (Rucker et al., Niehm, 2005). Despite the amount of research, scho-
1995) which has subsequently provided a strong new lars argue that the number of studies on SHC are still
business opportunity and increased the global sales of both limited (Na’amneh & Al Huban, 2012) and spo-
SHC to nearly USD $200 billion per year (Slotter- radic (Walter, 2008), and the findings are mixed and
back, 2007). Mintel (2009) argues that this trend is lack agreement (Felix, Asuamah & Darkwa, 2013).
unstoppable and is increasing every year, and as a re- Scholars believe that this lack of agreement is due to
sult he predicts that the world’s consumption of SHC the informal and unstructured nature of SHC transac-
will more than double in the next few years. tions (Roux & Guiot, 2008), narrow research topics
Today, SHC are no longer seen as a low level (Jagel, Keeling, Reppel & Gruber, 2012) and the em-
fashion; instead, they have become a global fashion ployment of different research methodologies (Beard,
trend and customers from different socio-economic 2008). Thus, to resolve this issue Xu, Chen, Burman

1
2 JURNAL MANAJEMEN DAN KEWIRAUSAHAAN, VOL.18, NO. 1, MARET 2016: 1–15

and Zhao (2014) suggest that deeper investigations on which did not directly relate to the SHC topic. This
this issue are urgently required. To answer their call elimination resulted in the identification of 131 re-
and increase understanding of the SHC phenomenon, search articles from various academic journals and
it is felt that there is a need to take a step back and different disciplines, which comprised the sample for
consolidate existing research inventories. Such conso- further analysis.
lidation provides an opportunity to identify the re- Content analysis was then performed on selected
search trends and more importantly, an opportunity to research articles to identify and understand the trends
establish a clearer direction for future research (Gaur, in SHC. Each published article was classified and
Herjanto & Makkar, 2014). Therefore, this study con- coded in accordance with Walter’s (2004) recycling
tent analyzed 131 researches on SHC published over categorization, which included SHC consumption be-
the years 1990–2014. havior, textile disposal behavior, and SHC trading re-
Slotterback (2007) asserts that the 1990s began lated issues. Following Holsti’s (1969) recommenda-
an important era in modern SHC consumption. tion, inter-coder reliability and judgments were con-
During the 1990s, modern SHC trading emerged and ducted. The reliability coefficient was satisfactorily
gained a global popularity, with almost every country found and met Holsti’s minimum threshold value of
in the world becoming actively involved in the SHC 85%. A history of SHC was found to be 98%. The
industry either as traders or consumers. Thus, it is im- reliability coefficient of SHC consumption behavior
portant to investigate the research stock published and textile disposal behavior was 100% and 98% res-
from this time period in connection with what we pectively. Finally, the coder reliability for SHC tra-
know about the history of SHC, SHC consumption, ding was 95%.
textile disposal behavior, and SHC trading related is-
sues and offer new suggestions on how and what to- Findings & Discussion
pic should be focused on in order to develop new
theoretical frameworks to appreciate the SHC pheno- The History of SHC is the Foundation of
menon in the future. This study is organized as fol- Understanding the Phenomenon
lows: first, we present a background to the SHC defi-
nition. Secondly, we discuss our methodology used in
SHC has a long history that can be tracked back
this study. Thirdly, we explain what we know about
to mid-1300 Europe (Seidel, 1991). At this time, Eu-
the history of SHC consumption, consumption beha-
rope was experiencing a deep economic depresssion,
vior, disposal behavior, and trading related issues.
increasing populations, political and social rebellions,
Fourthly, we present a discussion on what we do not
and severe famine and mass starvation (Smitha,
know about the SHC phenomenon. Lastly, we present
2015). Due to these deteriorating economic and living
a conclusion and the limitations of this study.
situations, SHC become an important alternative to
Research Method fulfil ordinary consumers’ clothing needs (Lemire,
2006; Barahona & Sanchez, 2012). In such difficult
Initially, published SHC related articles on times, the circulation of SHC reached consumers
Google Scholar were researched. According to Jucso through four important ways.
(2008), Google Scholar offers wide academic journal Firstly, clothes were inherited from the estate of
coverage. In addition, Noruzi (2005) argues that Goo- deceased family members or masters (Lambert, 2004)
gle Scholar provides instant results, less bias in jour- to liquidate or settle their debts (Van Damme & Ver-
nal selection, and report findings from multiple years. moesen, 2009) or in exchange for other goods (Han-
Accordingly, Linacre (2013) suggests that Google sen, 2000) and to make profit for the defendants (Sei-
Scholar enhances researchers’ ability to conduct del, 1991). Secondly, SHC were given to family
broader, conclusive, and multidisciplinary search- members as patrimony (Charpy, 2008) or memorabi-
ers. The words “second-hand clothes”, “recycled lia (Lambert, 2014) or as a gift (Barahona & Sanchez,
clothes”, “used clothes”, and “cast off clothes” 2012). Thirdly, consumers obtained SHC from re-
were inputted as keywords, which resulted in several made or repaired old clothes (Lemire, 2006), for in-
thousand published articles ranging from 1990 to stance, a mother altered her clothes to give to her
2014. From this reserve, all conferences, proceeding daughters or remodeled them to fit the current fashion
papers, unpublished Master and Doctoral disserta- (Benson, 2007). Finally, consumers bought their SHC
tions, book chapters, and unpublished working papers from SHC retailers (Lemire, 2006).
were removed. Further, the abstracts were conscien- Noon (2011) suggests that these retailers could
tiously reviewed by two researchers to remove papers be grouped into three different categories: clothes bro-
 Herjanto: The Increasing Phenomenon of Second-Hand Clothes Purchase 3

kers, pawnbrokers, and those who held a roup or a 2009). This complexity is due to the fact that custo-
simple auction. Clothes brokers were known as tailors mers have to go through different stages of acquisition
who altered or remodeled existing clothes to meet the – for example; a product information search including
needs of their consumers – mainly middle class (Ba- previous ownership (Farrant, Olsen & Wangel, 2011),
rahona & Sanchez, 2012). Pawnbrokers, on the other that is, how the previous owners’ purchased, used,
hand, sold or hired out SHC to underworld consumers stored and disposed their clothes (Winakor, 1969). To
and mob members (Ginsburg, 1980). Finally, those understand SHC consumption behavior, Van Birge-
who held a roup or simple auction sold SHC on a len, Semeijn and Keicher (2009) suggest that firstly, it
bargaining basis – a popular method of acquisition is important to understand customer’s disposable be-
among bargain hunters (Noon, 2011). Barahona and havior. Following their suggestion, this section starts
Sanchez (2012) further point out that the popularity of with a discussion on clothing disposable behavior and
SHC also created a new business called Mauleros or follows this with a discussion on SHC acquisition be-
remnant sellers who supported SHC customers by havior.
selling bits and pieces of second-hand fabrics which
could be used for repairing SHC. Today, SHC are SHC Disposal Behavior
widely available at thrift shops, flea markets, second-
hand shops, vintage shops, auctions and garage sales SHC disposable behavior occurs when the origi-
(Ruckers et al., 1995), yard sales (Steinbring & Ruc- nal owner of the clothes no longer wants to keep his/
kers, 2003), special SHC markets (Besnier, 2004), lo- her clothes (Brookshire & Hodges, 2009). The extant
cal and traditional markets (Hansen, 1999), and the In- literature shows that there are several ways to get rid
ternet (Charbonneau, 2008). of unwanted clothes. These include (1) ridding –
Thus, understanding such history is a fundamen- where the clothes are beyond repair and there is no
tal ingredient for one’s learning and development way to reuse them. In this case, clothes are usually
(Blank, 2015), and helps researchers and policy ma- thrown away and end up at the landfill (Albinsson &
kers to identify the structure, genuine constraints, his- Parera, 2009). (2) Recycling – in which the condition
torical trends, and more importantly, to find the ans- of clothes is reasonably good and they are still usable.
wers to the SHC phenomenon and prepare for the The original owner of these clothes tends to take these
future (Stearns, 2013). Brief history of SHC is clothes either to a recycle shop or to a charity shop
presented in Table 1. (Parsons, 1999). (3) Donating – the original owner
usually drops his/her clothes off to a charity shop, or
Consumers’ SHC Consumption Behavior to a religious or charity organization (Ekstrom & Sa-
lomonson, 2014). (4) Sharing and (5) exchanging oc-
The consumption of SHC is unique (Beard, cur when the original owner is willing to share or ex-
2008) and complex (Ha-Brookshire & Hodges, change his/her unwanted clothes within his/her

Table 1
History of SHC
Authors Contributions Place
Ginsburg (1980) Examines the SHC trading situation in England between 1700 and 1978. The study England
found that SHC businesses were regarded as an essential infrastructure to support
ordinary consumers and explained the contribution of SHC to consumers’ welfare.
Huck (2003) Explores the functions of SHC in Ireland during the1800s. This study discovered that Ireland
clothes represent wearers’ level of economic and social power and core identity.
Lemire (2006) Investigates second-hand consumption trends in Europe between1600 and 1850. This Europe
study revealed that the evolution of SHC went through 3 stages: transition from
scarcity, growing abundance, and industrial plenty.
Benson (2007) Examines American middle-class SHC consumption. The study found that during the USA
interwar era, the dominant type of SHC in the market was women’s and children’s
wear.
Barahona & Sanchez Scrutinize the role of SHC in the survival strategy of Spanish low income consumers Spain
(2012) in the 1800s. This study found that such customers survived by recycling their clothes
across generations and for donations.
4 JURNAL MANAJEMEN DAN KEWIRAUSAHAAN, VOL.18, NO. 1, MARET 2016: 1–15

network or to community members (Albinsson & disposal behavior. Bianchi and Birtwistle’s (2012)
Parera, 2009). Finally, (6) reselling – where the owner cross-cultural study in Australia and Chile found that
sells his/her unwanted clothes to consignment shops, older people tend to dispose of their unwanted clothes
garage sales (Walter, 2008), or at car boot sales (Hib- through charity or recycle methods. Their findings are
bert, Horne & Tagg, 2005). Lastovicka and Fernan- echoed in the US (Shim, 1995) and Ghana (Felix et
dez (2005) found that such wide availability of dis- al., 2013). Hoyer, MacInnis and Pieters (2013) ex-
posal channels promotes a high level of unwanted plain this universal trend occurs due to older people
clothes. As a result, in mid-2010, the US, Europe (Lu, tending to have higher altruism behavior. That is,
2015) and Japan (Ohno, 2011) produced nearly 2M older people tend to feel socially and morally respon-
tons of SHC. sible for helping other people in need (Shim, 1995). In
In addition, SHC disposal behavior is also moti- different studies, females are found to be consistently
vated by three further important factors: personal (Bi- more likely to dispose of their SHC (Felix et al.,
anchi & Birtwistle, 2012), situational (Brookshire & 2013) and discard fewer garments than males (Shim,
Hodges, 2009) and product (Albinsson & Parera, 1995). These is because females are regarded as ha-
2009) characteristics. These scholars believe that the ving more environmental awareness (Shim, 1995)
combination of these characteristics and the number than men and want to conserve the environment for
of ways in which to dispose of unwanted clothes are future generations (Felix et al., 2013). In the same stu-
responsible for this trend. dy, Felix et al. (2013) also found that although diffe-
Personal characteristics refer to mental charac- rent religions have different tendencies in terms of
teristics and personal qualities that strongly govern an disposing of their SHC, highly religious individuals
individual’s way of life. Gunnells, Hale and Hale tend to dispose of their SHC more responsibly. This is
(2009) suggest that these characteristics are made up because religious people believe that conservation (sa-
from psychological, demographic, and cognitive ele- ving the Earth) is their responsibility (Saraswat &
ments. In this study, the psychological components Bhadauria, 2009).
are represented by value, emotion, self-concept, and Cognitive factors, on the other hand, refer to
trust. Value is the guiding principle by which indi- individuals’ thinking process with regard to fashion
viduals maintain their lifestyle (Schwarz, 1992). Ac- innovativeness or adaption (Bianchi & Birtwistle,
cording to Brookshire and Hodges (2009), SHC dis- 2010). For example, an individual with high fashion
posal behavior is primarily guided by utilitarian (func- innovativeness may alter and reuse their unwanted
tional) and hedonic (pleasurable) value. Individuals clothes and therefore show a reduction in SHC dispo-
with a high utilitarian concept of value selectively sal behavior. Further, Bianchi and Birtwistle (2010)
choose and decide which of their clothes are unwan- argue that the level to which cognitive factors affect
ted according to the physical benefits or condition of disposal behavior depends on individual conscious-
the items. For example, the owner evaluates whether ness and awareness of new trends and their skills in
an item is still wearable or not. On the other hand, altering their clothes.
people with a high hedonic concept of value evaluate Situation characteristics refer to a specific inter-
the items based on their sentimental/ emotional value action between the original clothes owner and the spe-
(Fortenbaugh, 1969). That is, the more sentimental cific situation at the given time (Moon & Kim, 2001)
value the clothes have (i.e., a gift from grandma), the – that is, the interaction with their economic condi-
more difficult for the owner to dispose of them. To tion (Joung & Poaps, 2013), convenience (Brook-
Brookshire and Hodges (2009), throwing out clothes shire & Hodges, 2009), and changes in family and
with high sentimental value creates a sense of guilt house situations (Hibbert et al., 2005). Moon and Kim
which generates self-blame and self-hate (Baumeister, (2001) argue that such situational factors lead to dif-
Stillwell & Heatherton, 1994) and negative self-eva- ferent disposal behavior. For example, Joung and
luation (Lazarus, 1991). Consequently, it affects and Poaps’ (2013) study of US college students noted that
hurts the individual’s personality (Joung, 2013) and the higher dollar value of their SHC prompts students
self-concept (Albinsson & Parera, 2009). Thus, in or- to recycle their clothes more often. In addition, Ruc-
der to avoid this negative emotion, owners of original ker et al. (1995) suggest that extra income is also res-
clothes tend to keep them (Brookshire & Hodges, ponsible for high disposal behavior because the more
2009). income the individual earns, the more spending and
In addition to the psychological factor, scholars therefore this individual is able to renew their closet
note that demographic components such as age (Bian- more often. Furthermore, Domina and Koch (2001)
chi & Birtwistle, 2012; and Shim, 1995), gender, and found that hassle free access to recycling significantly
religion (Felix et al., 2013) are responsible for SHC improves individuals’ tendency to dispose of their
 Herjanto: The Increasing Phenomenon of Second-Hand Clothes Purchase 5

SHC. Also, Ekstrom and Salomonson (2014) note clothes enable individuals to flash back to old memo-
that clear and visible signage and the position of the ries and experience enjoyment and pleasure. Conse-
collection bin enhances disposal behavior. Finally, quently, individuals tend to keep clothes with a high
Hibbert et al. (2005) document that family bereave- value of sentimentality and memory (Albinsson & Pe-
ment as well as moving homes is also responsible for rera, 2009). Brief additional information of SHC dis-
improving the number of SHC that are recycled. As a posal behavior is presented in Table 2.
result, Rucker et al. (1985) conclude that there are
many reasons to improve original owners’ desire to SHC Consumption Behavior
“get rid of unwanted clothes”.
Product factors refer to any added value cha- Understanding the full picture of the SHC con-
racteristics of the SHC (Van Ness & Cramer, sumption phenomenon has attracted scholars since the
2005). This includes sentimentality and memory medieval era (Han, 2013). Initially, scholars believed
value (Albinsson & Perera, 2009). According to Al- that the consumption of SHC was primarily domi-
binsson and Perera (2009) clothes are very personal nated by buyers’ financial situation (Guiot & Roux,
items that accompany individuals’ transitions in the 2008). In reality, motivations to consume SHC are
process of finding their self-identity. As a result, these complex and are generated by different factors. These
Table 2
SHC Disposal Behavior
Authors Motivation Findings
Brookshire & Personal Psychology Emotion The study found that negative emotions, i.e. guilt, play an
Hodges (2009) important role in disposing of SHC. The threat of feelings
of guilt promotes original owners to keep their unused/
unwanted clothes.
Albinsson & Self-Concept The authors found that individuals tend to maintain their
Perera (2009) self-concept by disposing of clothes that do not fit with
their adopted and claimed self-identity.
Joung (2013) Personality The study found that materialistic individuals are more
likely to prefer newer styles and expensive clothes and
tend to get rid of their older style and inexpensive clothes.
Bianchi & Demography Age This study found that in comparison with developing
Birtwistle (2012) countries like Chile, older people in Australia tend to have
higher SHC disposal behavior through charity.
Felix et al. (2013) Age The authors reasoned that older people tend to keep their
clothes for future generation rather than giving them away
or recycling them.
Gender In this study, females were found to value altruism highly
and therefore tend to recycle more than males. Males on
the other hand, are willing to recycle if they receive a profit
in return.
Religion Religious people were found to positively promote recycle
behavior. They are more aware of saving the environment
(save dustbin space).
Bianchi & Cognitive Thinking The study showed that the higher individual’s fashion
Birtwistle (2010) process awareness, the higher the tendency to reuse or alter
clothing or donate it to organizations that can reuse them.
Joung & Poaps Situation Economic Findings indicated that individuals tend to recycle their
(2001) clothes to earn extra money that they can use when
purchasing new clothes.
Brookshire & Convenience The authors noted that individual’s tendency of recycling
Hodges (2009) SHC highly dependence on the convenience of donation
sites.
Hibbert et al. Housing The study revealed that among other reasons, moving
(2005) situation home and bereavement are responsible for SHC disposal
behavior.
Albinsson & Product Sentimentality The study found that clothes offer sentimental value and
Perera (2009) memories. This value cherishes a specific memory that
produces a specific emotional state.
6 JURNAL MANAJEMEN DAN KEWIRAUSAHAAN, VOL.18, NO. 1, MARET 2016: 1–15

include ethical beliefs, originality, nostalgic pleasure, et al. (2013) study found that SHC consumption is
self-expression, social pressure, treasure hunting, and also generated by frugality. As an individuals’ spen-
so on. These factors, according to Carvellon, Carey ding control mechanism, frugality limits an individu-
and Harm (2013), show that motivations to consume al’s unnecessary spending on economic goods in or-
SHC are multifaceted and compounded by more than der to achieve long-term goals. This limitation in-
one factor. In general, the findings show that the mo- cludes buying new clothes. To these individuals, bu-
tivation to consume SHC can be classified into eco- ying new clothes is seen as a violation of economic
nomic (internal vs external), psychology (inner vs value consciousness and more importantly, it leads
peer pressure), and situational components. Accor- to becoming materialistic and compulsive. Thus, in
ding to Kupers and Weibler (2008), economic order to achieve their final goals, people with high
components refer to economic situations that govern frugality tend to manage and discipline their spending
individual spending. Parallel with today’s change in and always seek better ways to obtain fair deals (Roux
economic climate, the economic components can be & Giout, 2008).
classified into internal and external components As well as internal economic components, scho-
(Blomgren, Sattari, Peighambari & Levihn, 2014). lars argue that external economic components (i.e.,
Internal economic components are defined as internal price) are also responsible for SCH consumption
controllable components (i.e., income, household (Grosso et al., 2000). Grosso et al. (2000) argue that
situation, and frugality) that affect the level of in- in conjunction with income, price intensifies the
dividual spending. External economic components, tendency of individuals to purchase SHC. To Roux
on the other hand, are known as uncontrollable ex- and Giout (2008), lower priced SHC represents an
ternal components (i.e., price). economic value, psychological satisfaction, and po-
With reference to internal economic compo- wer dimensions. For individuals, the economic va-
nents, Parsons (1999), Hossain (2005), and Na’amneh lue of SHC not only offers fairness but more im-
and Al Huban (2012) argue that in situations of eco- portantly it provides an opportunity to gain a bar-
nomic hardship such as today, income can be the gain which results in price gratification (Guiot &
strongest determiner of individual consumption. They Roux, 2010). Price gratification is also known as a sa-
argue that economic hardship forces those individuals tisfaction with the ability to manage spending (Xu et
on lower incomes to find alternative forms of con- al., 2014), which helps individuals to experience fi-
sumption to overcome the economic pressure they are nancial profit and a smart shopping experience, which
experiencing. In other words, those on a lower in- in turn generate a higher sense of economic value for
come simply cannot afford to buy new clothes and as their money (Xu et al., 2014).
a result they are forced to consume SHC. In a dif- The second motivation of SHC is psychological
ferent study, Grasso, McEnally, Widdows, and Herr factors which refer to the strong driving force that is
(2000) suggest that this finding needs to be treated generated from intrinsic and extrinsic factors (Fuster
with caution. Their research noted that customers’ in- et al., 2012). In relation to SHC intrinsic factors in-
tention to consume SHC was not purely affected by clude morals, image, value, materialism, and nostal-
their personal income but in fact by their collective gia, whereas extrinsic factors include uniqueness, au-
household income. To Benson (2007), this situation thenticity and originality, and peer pressure.
also suggests that household income is responsible for Clammer (1992) argues that shopping and con-
SHC consumption – for example, the number and suming are highly related and directly affected by
gender of household members, their standard of li- psychological factors. Thus, the consumption of SHC
ving, and their ability to consistently fulfil their basic represents an individual’s commitment to SHC and
needs. Her study noted that the larger the number of more importantly the wearer’s self-identity. Such i-
household members, the stronger their likelihood to dentity, according to Rothstein (2005), is affected by
consume SHC. individuals’ specific circumstances at a given time
This is because each of the household members and becomes an important structural condition that
needs to ensure that they have enough leftover funds determines their consumption of SHC. To illustrate,
to spend on a whole range of needs; therefore, they Braze-Govan and Binay’s (2010) study on Austra-
must avoid unaffordable spending that may further lian’s disposed goods consumption revealed that their
stretch tight resources and therefore choose to con- respondents tangibilized their moral identity through
sume SHC. Based on these discussions, Srinivasan anti-consumerism and recommodified disposed
and Sivakumar (2011) conclude that in negative eco- clothes by buying their SHC at charity organizations.
nomic situations, individuals tend to be wiser in their On the other hand, Roux and Giout (2008) suggest
spending. In addition to the above studies, Carvellon that individuals also take an advantage of the low
 Herjanto: The Increasing Phenomenon of Second-Hand Clothes Purchase 7

price of SHC as their platform to enrich their clothing Despite pressures to follow society’s beliefs, in-
collections. In other words, consuming SHC allows dividuals still tend to maintain their own identity by
them to have more clothes which in turn satisfies their purchasing unique (Braze-Govan & Binay, 2010;
materialist needs. Roux & Giout, 2008), exclusive (Beard, 2008), and
authentic (Guiot & Roux, 2010; McColl et al., 2013)
According to scholars, different self-identities
SHC products. For example, Hansen’s (2000) study
show that individuals employ different values as fun-
in Zambia found that SHC customers see uniqueness
damental factors to make decisions (Jagel et al., 2012)
in SHC in that it helps wearers to stand out among the
and deal with different circumstances (Isla, 2013). For
crowd and receive more attention which determines
example, moral identity is generated when individuals
their existing and future interaction with others. In a
exercise their ethical and altruism values whereas ma-
different study, Beard (2008) also found that unique
terialism is promoted by economic and hedonic va-
SHC is perceived as a premium and claimed as an
lues. To add to this complexity, Xu et al. (2014) argue
important vintage item. The premium SHC item is
that individuals are also influenced by environmental
very limited and because of this high degree of rare-
and symbolic values. Further, the authors suggest that
ness, the wearer of a unique SHC item is considered
the selection of these values is determined by indi-
as an individual with a high fashion sense (Quayson,
viduals’ culture. Thus, Isla (2013) concludes that the
2010) which further promotes a high level of self-
consumption of SHC is a genuine representation of
confidence (Hansen, 2000). To McColl et al. (2013),
wearers’ identity and values. Interestingly, Roux and
the exclusivity of SHC is inseparable from the authen-
Giout (2008) also found that the motivation to con-
ticity or originality of SHC. They believe that origina-
sume SHC is created by a degree of nostalgia for
lity not only provides economic value but more im-
SHC. To Zauberman, Ratner, and Kim (2009), nostal-
portantly, it offers a high historical value which allows
gia is the propensity of individuals to flashback to per-
wearers to take part in history. Thus, based on the ex-
sonal experiences and values of the past. These au-
planation above, McColl et al. (2013) conclude that
thors argue that in the context of SHC, nostalgia is a
individuals see SHC as a life treasure. More informa-
social emotion that reminds individuals of their self-
tion is presented in Table 3. Situational factors are
identity and more importantly to their past interaction
regarded as the next major determinant of SHC pur-
with others. For example, SHC may remind them of
chasing behavior. In this study, situational factors
special events such as graduations, puberty etc. Sedi-
consist of customers, sellers, and general dimen-
kides, Wildschut and Baden (2004) suggest that by
sions.
consuming SHC for the sake of nostalgia, individuals
The customer dimension refers to any situational
re-connect and strengthen their symbolic interaction
factors (i.e., culture, past purchases, and a distance
with others. Thus, Roux and Giout (2008) conclude
from the social system) that are directly related and
that nostalgia is one of the most important ingredients
affect individuals’ belief in purchasing SHC. The cul-
in the consumption of SHC.
tural dimension is closely associated with indivi-
In addition, the study also found that SHC con- duals’ cultural and ethnic ideology that governs their
sumption is also heavily affected by extrinsic motiva- SHC purchases (Smirchich, 1983). According to Na’-
tions such as peer pressure (Xu et al., 2014), authen- amneh and Al Husban (2012), the cultural dimen-
ticity (McColl, Canning, McBridge, Nobbs, and sion has been contaminated by globalization and as a
Shearer, 2013), uniqueness, and exclusivity consequence, it has blurred conventional socio-cultu-
(Braze-Govan & Binay, 2010). The Theory of ral identity and driven individuals to accept and tole-
Reason Action holds that social pressure or peer pres- rate new purchasing behavior as their new identity.
sure is responsible for determining SHC consumption In order to maintain this new identity, individuals
behavior (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1980) and becomes a race to adopt cross-cultural consumption through
reference for individuals to conduct their behavior purchasing SHC items. For example, Hansen’s
(Xu et al., 2014). Failure to follow such references are (1999) study found that Gambians prefer to wear
seen as a failure to comply with approved behavior Western style clothes rather than their traditional
(Armitage & Conner, 2001) which promotes a rejec- clothes due to their functionality and image and be-
tion from the group (Pohja, 2010). In the context of cause of a trend. This trend, according to Xu et al.
SHC, consuming SHC is seen as a socialization pro- (2014), is also strengthened by individuals’ past expe-
cess or a confirmation of social norms which helps rience of consuming SHC. In their study, Xu and her
individuals to understand the acceptable values and colleagues found that the process of purchasing SHC
reduce negative concerns from society (Xu et al., allows individuals to reflect adventure-seeking and
2014). gambling characteristics. That is, individuals are dri-
8 JURNAL MANAJEMEN DAN KEWIRAUSAHAAN, VOL.18, NO. 1, MARET 2016: 1–15

Table 3
Intrinsic and Extrinsic SHC Psychological Motivation
Authors Intrinsic Extrinsic Findings
Braze-Govan & Morals Customers buy SHC products to informally address their
Binay (2010) individualized moral identity as the expression of their social life.
Na’amneh & Al Image Customers buy SHC products to maintain and improve their self-
Huban (2012) image which is produced by SHC price, authenticity, quality, brand,
and westernness.
Xu et al. (2014) Values Customers’ intention to buy SHC is highly determined by their
culturally perceived values.
Isla (2013) Values The SHC purchasing behavior of Filipino customers is affected by
functionality value.
Jagel et al. (2012) Values Economic value, image, personal well-being, ethical concerns, and
altruism are responsible for SHC consumption.
Roux & Giout (2008) Materialism Higher materialism drives individuals to buy SHC in order to both
save money and buy more products.
Roux & Giout (2008) Nostalgia Nostalgia is considered as recreational motivation to buy SHC due
to its ability to allow customers to flashback to past memories and
experiences.
Braze-Govan & Uniqueness The degree of SHC uniqueness allows individuals to express their
Binay (2010) identity, feelings, and morality in terms of their consumption.
Roux & Giout (2008) Uniqueness In addition to unique designs, SHC has the ability to provide and
fulfil the need for uniqueness and therefore motivates individuals to
consume SHC.
Hansen (1999) Uniqueness SHC provides an individual with the opportunity to show off their
expression of variety, individuality, and uniqueness in their clothing
practice.
Hansen (2000) Uniqueness Despite economic pressure, SHC allows individuals to look
outstanding and exclusive.
Guiot & Roux (2010) Authenticity The authentic character of SHC helps individuals to express their
individuality.
McColl et al. (2013) Authenticity The story behind SHC reflects its authenticity and allows
individuals to take part in history.
Xu et al. (2014) Social Norms Social norms facilitate customers’ SHC purchasing behavior and
socialization process to ensure group memberships.

ven to find their luck and enjoy the treasure hunting adding new clothes to their collection. To these in-
experience of seeking for SHC. To illustrate, indivi- dividuals, buying new clothes is perceived as irres-
duals may visit many thrift shops or other outlets to ponsible behavior as they believe that buying new
find a rare and good quality vintage SHC item and clothes is a waste of resources and a sign of rampant
this process enhances their adrenalin and offers a dif- consumerism. Thus, such individuals are more likely
ferent type of experience and satisfaction. to purchase SHC.
In addition to this new excitement, at the same In addition to the consumer dimension, it was
time, individuals also are perceived as ethical indi- found that sellers are also responsible for increasing
viduals (Guiot & Roux, 2010). Because of these po- SHC consumption. McColl et al. (2013) study on
sitive experiences, therefore, it is reasonable to say SHC retailing found that the recent re-imaging of
that past experience plays a significant role in af- thrift shops has improved customer visitation and
fecting SHC purchase intention. In a different study, more importantly increased the shops’ turnover and
Guiot and Roux (2010) noted that SHC consumption profitability. These authors reasoned that this new po-
is also a form of public protest towards individuals’ sitioning requires sellers to be fully equipped with
dissatisfaction with the current clothes purchasing knowledge of SHC and to provide high level of cus-
system. This dissatisfaction encourages individuals to tomer service with innovative trading formats (i.e., at-
distance themselves from buying new clothes and tractive window displays, store environments, and
instead purchasing SHC items. According to Guiot personality). In addition, Hansen (2000) found that
and Roux, this attitude allows individuals to take re- SHC sellers are also required to act as good models
venge and at the same time escape the costs of by looking elegant and presentable in order to exhibit
 Herjanto: The Increasing Phenomenon of Second-Hand Clothes Purchase 9

their SHC and more importantly to be more agile in of SHC, selling SHC as a street vendor (Hansen,
finding their suppliers. The combination of these fac- 2004), or being a distributor for SHC (Haggblade,
tors are believed to improve the attractiveness of SHC 1990). To Hansen (2004), such new job opportunities
items (Hansen, 2000). help individuals to improve their career, offer an alter-
Finally, the general dimension of SHC con- native income and new skills, and also contribute to
sumption is closely related to environmental aware- the development of their country by paying tax. Han-
ness (Grasso et al., 2000) the degree of Westerniza- sen (1999) also notes that SHC triggers creativity.
tion (Hansen, 1999), and modernization (Besnier, SHC are initially imported from a source coun-
2004). Today, consumers are more critical of what try in their original sizes, colors, condition, and styles.
they buy and consume. In other words, modern cus- These characteristics not only provide a high degree
tomers are more environmentally mindful and accor- of uniqueness, but also challenge potential buyers. For
dingly, they tend to save the world by purchasing example, the condition of some SHC may mean that
recycled goods such as SHC (Grasso et al., 2000). To items are no longer usable or the size is inappropriate
such individuals, purchasing SHC offers dual bene- etc. This situation encourages SHC vendors and bu-
fits: economic and environmental. In term of econo- yers to modify SHC either to make items fit or to be
mic benefits, Grasso et al. (2000) argue that individu- used for a different function entirely (i.e., handbag,
als can save their money, whereas in relation to the wall accessories etc.) (Haggblade, 1990). These new
environmental benefits, individuals are “saving the resized or modified items improve their attractiveness
world” by reducing waste through remodifying and and salability without abandoning their 100% origi-
refunctioning SHC, and more importantly, by elimi- nality and characteristics. In other words, the creativi-
nating the unnecessary toxic and harmful substances ty of SHC vendors and buyers provides a clothing al-
(i.e., coloring, cloth waste, etc.) created in the produc- ternative to their buyers (Haggblade, 1990) and at the
tion of new clothes. Individuals, therefore, tend to buy same time, these buyers can still experience good qua-
SHC to experience these dual benefits. In addition to lity products which they feel will improve their clo-
environmental awareness, Hansen (1999) and Besnier thing standard (Hansen, 1999) within an affordable
(2004) note that the level of Westernization or mo- budget.
dernization is also responsible for the SHC consump- However, SHC also has a negative impact
tion trend. Ansori (2009) argues that in today’s era of (Brooks & Simon, 2012) and its consumption has
globalization, developing countries around the world received criticism. For example, Hansen’s (2000)
are attempting to improve their economies through study in African countries found that the SHC in-
modernization. According to Besnier (2004), mo- dustry has negatively affected local clothing indus-
dernization has pressurized the local people into tries. Governments in these countries hold that the
adopting a more Western life style including Western local clothing industry cannot compete with SHC’s
type clothes. Hansen (1999) found that in Zambia lower price and higher quality. To these administra-
Western clothes are not only perceived as a symbol of tions, the entry of SHC has created unfair competi-
modernization but also function as a symbol of equ- tion. They believe that local industry has very limited
ality. By wearing Western SHC clothes, the wearers technology, skills, and brand awareness, whereas
not only feel good about themselves but they also feel SHC represents branded clothing that is produced by
more freedom from existing local and cultural con- giant clothing companies that have technology and
straints. Brief information is presented in Table 4. skills. Because of this unfairness, the administrations
in many less developed countries have called for a
The Impacts of SHC Consumption Behavior ban on SHC products to protect the local clothing in-
dustries (Hansen, 2004).
SHC consumption is unstoppable and as a result With the explosion of SHC products in the mar-
of this worldwide trend, SHC has changed the clo- ket, Besnier (2004) also notes that this trend not only
thing purchasing landscape significantly. Scholars be- directly affects the manufacturers, but it also ne-
lieve that SHC consumption has positive (Haggblade, gatively affects local clothes sales significantly. Exis-
1990) impacts on society. Haggblade (1990) argues ting shop owners regard SHC as hijacking their bu-
that SHC positively contributes to the local economy siness. To these owners, SHC products enter the
through improving the local employment rate. In his market unfairly; that is, they are brought into the
comparative study of several developing African country as personal effects (Besnier, 2004) or smug-
countries, the author found that SHC enhances lo- gled (Isla, 2013) and therefore they are not subject to
cal income through establishing different type of em- taxation. Consequently, SHC vendors can price their
ployments. This includes the sorting out and grading items more affordably, in contrast to existing clothes
10 JURNAL MANAJEMEN DAN KEWIRAUSAHAAN, VOL.18, NO. 1, MARET 2016: 1–15

Table 4
Three Dimensions of Situational Factor of SHC Purchasing Trend
Authors Dimension Factors Findings
Na’amneh & Al Customer Culture The study shows that individuals purchase SHC according to their
Huban (2012) own desires, knowledge, and interests, as they impose their own
cultural systems of values and practices on these commodities.
Hansen (1999) In Third World countries, individuals appear to consume SHC by
compromising their cultural beliefs and historical background.
Xu et al. (2014) Past experience The study found that past experience of SHC consumption
determines customers’ desire to purchase further SHC.
Guiot and Roux Distance to a current According to these authors, purchasing SHC allows individuals to
(2010) system take revenge and at the same time escape the costs of buying new
clothes to add to their clothes collection and possessions.
McColl Seller Positioning SHC retail re-imaging strategy shows that the recent positioning of
et al. (2013) thrift shops has increased customer visitations.
Grasso General Environmental Modern customers are more environmentally mindful and
et al. (2000) awareness accordingly, they tend to save the world by purchasing recycled
goods such as SHC.
Besnier (2004) Modernization Modernization has pressurized the local people of Third World
countries to adopt a more Western life style including Western type
clothes.
Hansen (1999) Westernization Western SHC is not only perceived as a symbol of modernization
but also functions as a symbol of equality.

Table 5
Quick Comparison of Advantages vs Disadvantages of SHC
Advantages vs. Disadvantages of SHC on Society
Advantages Authors Disadvantages Authors
Employment Haggblade (1990); Hansen (1999) Reduce sales Besnier (2004)
Creativity Hansen (1999) Kills local industry Brooks & Smith (2012)
Clothing alternative Haggblade (1990)
Clothing standard Hansen (1999)

shop owners who need to consider tax on the price of below. The intensive investigation of this study has
the clothes they sell. Because of this situation, Hagg- shown that the extant literature on the SHC phenome-
blade (1990) regards the SHC trend as a politically non has been built based on consumers’ perspective
sensitive issue and the industry should be highly re- and as far as the authors’ best knowledge; there has
gulated to protect local clothing industries. been limited research on the sellers’ perspective. The-
refore, the first recommendation is to fill this gap. For
Future Research example, why and what makes individuals sell SHC?
What are the advantages and disadvantages of selling
What We Don’t Know About SHC SHC products? How do SHC sellers choose their stra-
tegy to sell their goods in comparison to new clothes
The discussion above showed that scholars have sellers? Is there any differences in selling to high
extensively investigated the SHC trend. From their end customers as opposed to ordinary customers? If
significant efforts, an understanding emerged that so, what are they? In addition to the above questions,
SHC is a complex phenomenon and previous scholars it is suggested that the SHC investigation be taken to
have revealed important components of this trend. another place. So far, SHC investigations have mainly
Although the preceding discussion offered a good un- been conducted in either African countries and/or in
derstanding of the history, consumption, and disposal well-developed countries such as the US, Europe and
of SHC and the impact of SHC on society, there are Australia. Although the findings from these continents
clearly many questions that still need to be answered. may provide a general picture of the SHC phenome-
Therefore, based on the discussion, a list of future non, the authors believe that future scholars need to
directions that scholars need to consider is provided expand their investigations to Asia, the many emer-
 Herjanto: The Increasing Phenomenon of Second-Hand Clothes Purchase 11

ging countries, and newly developed countries. The strata” (Baden & Barber, 2005). The above quotation
findings from these continents may provide different clearly shows that SHC consumption has taken off
perspectives and findings that may be able to more and can no longer be categorized as an alternative bu-
comprehensively address the phenomenon. siness. The literature shows that a worldwide SHC
The third suggestion is to involve more hetero- trend has evolved and changed over time and de-
geneous samples. So far, the extant literature has serves a full investigation. Within this study, it was
largely employed and interviewed low and mid-end found that scholars have concentrated their studies on
participants and to the best of the authors’ knowledge, three important sectors: a history of SHC, consump-
there has been no study that involves the high-end tion and disposal of SHC, and the impact of SHC.
segment as study participants. Again, understanding Although these dimensions have provided good leads
different segments will provide a full picture and un- and some understanding, the findings from these stu-
derstanding of the antecedents of why people pur- dies do not offer a full picture of the SHC pheno-
chase and wear SHC. menon. This study is among the first to screen and
Next, it is suggested that future scholars also content analyze the SHC literature. The findings of
look at the different motivations of purchasing SHC. this study provide clarity on what is known about this
These include 1) political motivation – for example, phenomenon and more importantly they provide clear
the degree of direct and indirect corruption, govern- future research directions. As the SHC consumption
ment regulations, etc.; 2), product motivation – for trend continues to grow, a strong body of research is
example, the degree of direct and indirect advertising, urgently needed to provide local governments and bu-
type of advertising, and non-branded SHC; and final- siness practitioners with guidance in handling this
ly 3), product motivation – for example, the mate- phenomenon.
rial of SHC items etc.
Finally, it is suggested that future researchers
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