Honda - Prelude - Wiring Diagram - 1994 - 1994
Honda - Prelude - Wiring Diagram - 1994 - 1994
Honda - Prelude - Wiring Diagram - 1994 - 1994
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Electrical Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Page 3561
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Page 1174
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 5598
Key Cylinder Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 5564
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5231
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4437
1. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the timing belt upper
cover. 4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 5. Remove the timing belt lower cover. 6. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 7. Inspect the timing balancer belt for cracks and oil soaking.
NOTE: -
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 1527
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 5454
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3386
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1968
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 664
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 404
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor is located integral to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and cannot be accessed to be tested separately. To test,
substitute a known good PGM-FI ECM. If symptom or DTC indication goes away, replace original
PGM-FI ECM.
Disassembly
Balance Shaft: Service and Repair Disassembly
REMOVE FLYWHEEL OR DRIVE PLATE
Flywheel
Manual Transmission: Remove the eight flywheel bolts, then separate the flywheel from the
crankshaft flange. After installation, tighten the bolts in the sequence shown. 12 x 1.0 mm Bolt
Torque: 105 Nm (10.5 kg-m, 76 lb ft)
Drive Plate
Automatic Transmission: Remove the eight drive plate bolts, then separate the drive plate from the
crankshaft flange. After installation, tighten the bolts in the sequence shown. 12 x 1.0 mm Bolt
Torque: 75 Nm (7.5 kg-m, 54 lb ft)
NOTE: Inspect crankshaft, balance shaft, and connecting rod end play before disassembling block.
Page 694
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
FUEL PRESSURE
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
Removal
1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in proper
locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel.
4. Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut.
Page 101
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Locations
Install an oil seal retainer to keep the oil seal from backing out.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE:
Early production kits also include a set of installation instructions. These instructions are incorrect,
do not use them. Use only the procedure in this service bulletin to install the kit.
Accord/Odyssey/SOHC Prelude:
4. Place the flat portion of the jaws over the tongue stopper, and squeeze until the vise-grip jaws
lock and deform the stopper shaft.
PARTS INFORMATION
Warranty Coverage:
Seat belts that fail to function properly during normal use are covered under warranty for the useful
life of the car.
^ Malfunction due to abuse, alteration, accidental damage or damage resulting from a collision or
misuse.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the side engine mount bracket stay B standard for
some types). 8. Remove the upper cover. 9. Remove the side engine mount.
10. Remove the dipstick and the pipe. 11. Remove the special bolt and the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the two rear bolts from the center beam to allow the engine to drop down and give
clearance to remove the lower cover.
12. Remove the timing belt adjuster rubber seal. Do not loosen the adjusting nut. 13. Remove the
lower cover.
Page 4976
Fuse Details Schematics
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4839
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 2175
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 896
Power Distribution
Page 1873
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 2503
3. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the
resistance is not within specifications.
NOTE: Resistance will vary with the coil temperature; specifications are at 68 °F (20°C).
^ Secondary Winding Resistance (between the A and secondary winding terminals): 14-22 kohms
4. Check for continuity between the A and C terminals. Replace the coil if there is no continuity.
Page 3317
Alternator: Locations
6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the
instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5
seconds of each other.)
7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work
repeat steps 2 thru 7.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the
previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all
transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed.
^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned
codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters.
Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter)
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.)
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and
open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle
once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
Page 883
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Page 5266
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Circuit Schematics
Page 5313
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 4153
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Radiator Fan Relay Test
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
................................................ 25 k ohms max,
Ignition Wire
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................................... 25 k ohms max.
Page 5042
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Specifications
Fuel: Specifications
FUEL OCTANE RATING (UNLEADED FUELS)
Minimum ..............................................................................................................................................
........................................... 91 RON or higher
Page 4177
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
THROTTLE POSITION / OUTPUT VOLTAGE
NOTE: ^ Measure difference in toe measurements with the wheels pointed straight ahead. ^ If the
parking brake is engaged, you may get an incorrect reading.
4. 2WS:
^ Hold the adjusting bolt on the rear lower arm B and loosen the self-locking nut. ^ Adjust the rear
toe by turning the adjusting bolt until toe is correct. ^ Install the new self-locking nut and tighten
while holding the adjusting bolt.
4WS:
Locations
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 4615
SYMPTOM
A buzzing noise can be heard in the driver's door when the audio system volume is turned up to
the midpoint or higher.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Apply EPT Sealer 10T (see PARTS INFORMATION) to the back of the door lock control unit.
1. Remove the driver's door panel. Refer to page 20-3 of the service manual.
2. Remove the door lock control unit.
3. Cut a 6.5 x 2.5 inch strip of EPT Sealer 10T, and attach it to the back and sides of the door lock
control unit.
PARTS INFORMATION
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 674
Caster is the tilting of the wheel axis either forward or backward from the vertical (when viewed
from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the
short and long arm type suspension you cannot see a caster angle without a special instrument,
but if you look straight down from the top of the upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do
not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle,
the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead (toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint
center line.
Page 2824
5. Remove the mounting bolts for the brake hose bracket. 6. Remove the caliper mounting bolts
and hang the caliper assembly to one side
CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece
of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage.
7. Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws. 8. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the disc to
push it away from the hub.
NOTE: Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
10. Remove the speed sensor wire bracket, then remove the speed sensor from the knuckle.
NOTE: -
- Use ball joint removers, to separate the ball joints from the suspension or steering arm.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 495
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition and electrical consumers off. 2. Remove under hood fuse/relay box and remove
lower cover. 3. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Electrical Load Detector (ELD). Turn
ignition switch on.
4. Measure voltage between BLACK/YELLOW (+) terminal and BLACK (-) terminal. Voltage should
read battery voltage. (If not repair open in
5. Measure voltage between GREEN/BLACK terminal and BLACK (-) terminal. voltage should read
approx. 5.0 volts. (If not, inspect
GREEN/BLACK wire at the three pin connector and PGM-GI ECM terminal D10. IF wire OK,
substitute known good Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM)).
6. Turn ignition off. Reconnect three pin connector. Install Test Harness between PGM-FI ECM and
connectors. 7. Start engine and run at Idle.
Page 2514
NOTE: Perform an input test for the Ignition Control Module (ICM) only after finishing the
fundamental tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions system. also verify that the
tachometer operates normally.
1. Remove the distributor cap, the distributor rotor, and the inner cover.
2. Disconnect the BLACK/YELLOW, GREEN, YELLOW/GREEN, and BLUE wires from the ICM. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW wire and chassis
ground. There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check the BLACK/YELLOW wire between the Ignition Coil and the
ICM.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the GREEN wire and chassis ground.
There should be battery voltage.
Ignition coil.
5. Check the YELLOW/GREEN wire between the PGM-IG ECM and the ICM. 6. Check the BLUE
wire between the tachometer and the ICM. 7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
Page 5774
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5033
Clock: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 5352
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 4026
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 4736
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be
accepted.
Page 4139
Fans- Si, SR, 4WS, VTEC, SR-V Models
Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
Knuckle/Hub
Removal
1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in proper
locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel.
4. Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut.
Page 576
NOTE: ^ The 4W5 indicator light turns on in a narrow range. Do not overlook it. ^ Work with care so
as not to move the rear wheels from this neutral position.
13. Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor slowly counterclockwise, and check the range from
where the light starts to blink, to where it stops. 14. Tighten the rear sub steering angle sensor a
little. Repeat the step 13 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the
range
NOTE: ^ Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor counterclockwise to make the 4WS indicator light
blink. ^ If the rear sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off,
disconnect the connector, and straighten the wire.
15. Tighten the locknut while holding the rear sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
NOTE: Take care not to turn the rear sub steering angle sensor.
16. Disconnect the rear sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire. Reconnect the
connector.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the rear sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
Circuit Schematics
Page 4160
Fuse Details Schematics
2. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 41.
Page 5691
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Circuit Schematics
Page 1563
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken
Seat Belt: Customer Interest Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken
Broken Seat Belt Tongue Stopper Button (Supersedes 93-033, dated October 22, 1993)
PROBLEM
The seat belt tongue stopper button is broken, allowing the tongue to slide down to the floor.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a new seat belt tongue stopper button listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Slide the seat belt tongue up the seat belt past the tongue stopper button hole. Temporarily
secure the seat belt tongue to the belt fabric with masking tape.
2. Insert the male section of the button through the hole in the belt fabric. Align and install the
female section of the stopper to the male section.
2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 3423
Right Front Of Floor, Under Carpet
Photo 118
Photo 125
Photo 137
Page 1254
NOTE:
An over-tensioned belt will cause crankshaft failure, usually within a few thousand miles. Make sure
the belt tension is correct before releasing the vehicle to your customer.
23. Reinstall the upper or middle cover. Torque the bolts to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
24. Reinstall the cylinder head cover. Torque the mounting hardware sequentially in two or three
steps as specified in the appropriate service manual.
26. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, then enter your customer's radio station presets. Set the
clock.
27. Center-punch a completion mark above the last character of the engine compartment VIN.
Page 3588
Camber is the inward or outward tilting of the front wheels from the vertical. When the wheels tilt
outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is
negative (-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle. If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
Page 845
9. Turn the Mode Selector to 3, 4, and 5. Perform step 8 for each of the test mode positions. 10.
Refill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap.
WARNING: Disconnect the ALB Checker before driving the car. A collision can result from a
reduction or complete loss of braking ability, causing severe personal injury or death.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
NOTE: The reservoir on the master cylinder must be full at the start of bleeding procedure, and
checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake
fluid.
1. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
2. Loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed
screw securely.
Page 3096
4. Place wooden block or shop rag in caliper opposite piston, then carefully remove piston from
caliper by applying air pressure through brake line
5. Remove boot clip, if equipped, then the piston boot and piston seal.
Assembly
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
1. Clean piston and caliper bore with brake fluid, then inspect for wear or damage. 2. Apply brake
cylinder grease to new piston seal and install seal in cylinder groove. 3. Install piston boot, then the
boot retaining clip. 4. Lubricate caliper cylinder and piston with brake fluid, then install piston in
cylinder with dished end facing in. 5. Install pad spring in caliper housing. 6. Install caliper
assembly.
Page 2478
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is integral to the distributor housing and must be replaced as an
assembly.
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
THROTTLE POSITION / OUTPUT VOLTAGE
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 4286
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 2. Ensure front wheels are aligned
straight forward. 3. Remove lower cover and driver side knee bolster. 4. Remove air duct. 5.
Remove driver side air bag. 6. Disconnect horn and cruise control electrical connectors. 7. Remove
cable reel 3-P electrical from clip. 8. Remove steering wheel nut and steering wheel. 9. Remove
steering column covers.
10. Disconnect cable reel 6-P electrical connector, then remove connector holder, Fig. 31. 11.
Remove the cable reel and canceling sleeve from the steering column.
INSTALLATION
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Photo 12
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 2680
4. Remove the free play in the throttle control cable with the locknut, while pushing the throttle
control lever to the fully-closed position as shown.
5. Tighten lock nuts. 6. After tightening the locknuts, inspect the synchronization and throttle control
lever movement.
NOTE: To tailor the shift/lock-up characteristics to a particular customer's driving expectations, you
can adjust the throttle control cable up to 2 mm (O.07B in) shorter than the "synchronized" point.
Page 1415
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 1330
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
- Leaking fuel line.
Page 4171
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 4018
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3767
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Specifications
Starter Motor: Specifications
Power Rating, KW ...............................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 1.6 Brush Spring Tension, Oz. ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
56-63 Maximum Load, Amps ...............................................................................................................
...................................................................................... 380 Normal Engine Cranking, RPM .............
..............................................................................................................................................................
............ 100
Page 4996
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 5791
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
1.4 KW Rating
Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection 1.4 KW Rating
Ensure air temperature is between 59-100°F before testing.
5. If starter still does not crank engine, bypass ignition switch circuit as follows:
a. Disconnect black/white wire from solenoid terminal on starter. b. Connect a jumper wire from
battery positive terminal to solenoid terminal. c. If starter cranks engine, check for an open in
black/white wire circuit between starter and ignition switch. If circuit is satisfactory, check
d. On models with automatic transaxle, check neutral safety switch and connector. e. On models
with manual transaxle, check starter relay, clutch interlock switch and connectors.
6. If starter still does not crank engine, remove and diagnose for internal problems. 7. Check
voltage and current draw, then compare as follows:
a. Cranking voltage should be no less than 8 volts and current draw should not be more than 350
amps. b. Engine speed when cranking on both reduction gear and direct drive starters should be
above 100 RPM. If engine speed is not at least 100
RPM, check for loose battery or starter terminals, worn starter brushes, open circuit in commuter
segments, dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear, and defective drive gear overrunning
clutch.
a. On models with manual transaxle, press clutch pedal to floor. b. Turn ignition switch to Start and
release to Run. c. If starter drive gear hangs up on flywheel or flex plate, check solenoid plunger
and switch for malfunction or drive gear assembly for dirty or
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5342
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 258
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 984
H/C 3251550
Defect code: 045
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 4529
The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S), located at the exhaust manifold or pipe with the sensor end
extending into the exhaust stream, supplies a voltage signal to inform the Programmed Fuel
Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) of the air/fuel mixture in the engine.
OPERATION
The HO2S sensor uses zirconia and platinum to compare exhaust oxygen content with that of the
outside air. When heated by the combination of its internal heater and exhaust gases, the sensor
supplies a low voltage signal (0 - 1 volt) to the PGM-FI ECM. When the engine is running rich, the
oxygen differential is relatively high so signal voltage increases. When a lean condition occurs the
difference in oxygen content is much lower causing a lower voltage signal to be produced.
Page 932
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Fuel Filter
The Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor, built into the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), senses changes in altitude so that ignition timing and fuel delivery
can be adjusted to maintain consistent engine performance.
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM supplies a 5.0 volt signal and a ground to the sensor. Changes in the pressure
differential between the sealed cavity and the atmosphere cause the silicon to flex. The flexing of
the silicon generates a small voltage which is amplified by the support circuitry and used to modify
the fixed 5.0 volt signal supplied by the PGM-FI ECM. The modified signal is then read by the
PGM-FI ECM.
Page 5365
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Front Wiper Motor
Wiper Motor: Service and Repair Front Wiper Motor
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Open hood and remove wiper arm retaining nuts and wiper
arms. 4. Unsnap clips carefully with a screwdriver and remove air scoop complete with hood
sealing rubber. 5. Disconnect wiring harness at motor. 6. Remove wiper linkage bolts, then the
linkage assembly. 7. Remove mounting bolts and nut from wiper linkage, then remove wiper motor.
8. Reverse procedure to install. 9. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 5163
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 2600
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an
assembly, if necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control
solenoid valve assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil
and reconnect it securely.
Page 3433
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Under Hood Fuse / Relay Box
Page 3395
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 4204
Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
The A/C thermostat is located on the evaporator housing. The A/C thermostat turns OFF the A/C
compressor clutch if the temperature at the evaporator goes below 3°C (37°F). This prevents
condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking the air delivery into the passenger
compartment. The blower motor will keep running when the thermostat turns OFF the compressor.
Page 633
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Page 5050
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap. 3. Use a box end
wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the top of the fuel filter, while holding the special banjo bolt with
another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY loosen the 6mm service bolt
one complete turn.
5. Remove the 12mm banjo bolt and the fuel feed hose from the filter. 6. Remove the fuel filter
clamp and the fuel filter. 7. Reverse above procedure to install, replace washers as shown in
illustration. 8. Torque the banjo bolt to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft), torque fuel filter clamp bolt to 10 Nm (7
lb-ft), torque high pressure fuel line to 38 Nm (27 lb-ft).
Page 5366
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5444
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5139
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
................................ 0.0008-0.0018 inches Exhaust ...........................................................................
..................................................................................................... 0.0022-0.0031 inches
Valve Seats:
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................... 0.049-0.061 inches Exhaust ...........................................................................
......................................................................................................... 0.049-0.061 inches
Page 589
3. Release the parking brake lever fully and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the
parking brake indicator light goes off. 4. Turn the ignition switch off.
Sub Steering Angle Sensor Adjustment
6. Remove the cap bolt and sealing washer from the rear actuator. Screw the special tool in as far
as it will go. 7. Remove the rear sub steering angle sensor wire from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
8. Loosen the angle sensor locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, then back it off about 1/2 turn
and connect the connector. 9. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position to prevent the
rear wheels from steering if the engine is started in error.
11. Turn the rear left wheel fully to the left by hand, then turn it slowly to the right to turn the 4W5
indicator light on (i.e. rear main steering angle
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
PURPOSE
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, located in the cylinder head just below the
distributor, delivers an electrical signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) allowing it to adjust the length of injector opening time required by the engine for
optimum performance at all engine temperatures.
OPERATION
As water temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The PGM-FI ECM receives sensor
information as resistance to ground. Coolant temperature information is used by the PGM-FI ECM
to determine proper fuel delivery.
Page 3103
4. Install the return spring.
CAUTION:
- When the cam and lever were separated, be sure to assemble them before installing the cam in
the caliper body. Install the lever and spring washer apply locking agent to the threads, and tighten
the parking nut while holding the lever with a vise.
- Avoid damaging the cam boot since it must be installed before the cam.
- When installing the cam, do not allow the cam boot lips to turn outside in.
5. Install the pin in the cam. 6. Apply recommended grease to the new O-ring and install it on the
sleeve piston. 7. Install the sleeve piston so the hole in the bottom of the piston is aligned with the
pin in the cam and two pins on the piston are aligned with the
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 3449
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
Amplifier: Locations
^ Insufficient cooling
2. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool. 3. Replace the plug if it is fouled or worn. 4. Apply a
small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. 5. Screw the plugs into the cylinder head
finger-tight, then torque them to 18 N.m (13 lb-ft).
Page 5795
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 713
Fuel Filter: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Fuel Filter, mounted on the firewall towards the right side of the vehicle, is used to stop dirt,
sand and other foreign matter from entering the fuel injectors.
OPERATION
When the fuel flows under pressure from the fuel pump it passes through the fuel filter assembly.
Dirt, sand and other particles are trapped in the treated paper filter inside the housing. The Filter
element is an integral component of the Fuel Filter housing and they are replaced as an assembly.
Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information
06-082
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire crayons
^ Awl or probe
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Insert the bolt into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
20. Loosen the adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. 21.
Install the timing balancer belt. 22. Turn the crankshaft pulley about one turn, then tighten the
adjusting nut to the specified torque.
NOTE: The belt adjuster is spring-loaded to properly tension the belt. Do not apply any extra
pressure to the pulleys or tensioner while performing the adjustment.
Page 4783
8. Disconnect the lock cylinder rod. Measure the distance "A" on the top of the outer handle rod,
then unscrew the handle from the rod. Remove the handle from the door.
9. Remove the center channel.
10. Disconnect the inner handle rod from the inner handle. Disconnect the lock rod from the crank.
Page 2295
7. Reconnect the two pin connector on the IAC, then remove the CLOCK/RADIO fuse in the
under-hood relay box for 10 seconds to reset the
PGM-FI ECM.
8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed.
9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (high beams on) and rear defogger ON, check idle
speed.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 3993
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 1537
The Catalytic Converter is located in the exhaust pipe under the vehicle.
Page 627
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Locations
NOTE:
- Do not return the oil to the container once dispensed and never mix with other refrigerant oils to
avoid contamination.
- Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container and seal it to avoid moisture
absorption.
- Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the car; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the
paint, wash it off immediately.
Add refrigerant oil (SP-1O: P/N 38899-P13-AO1) after replacing the following parts:
- Evaporator: 30 ml (1 fl oz)
- Compressor: For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained from the removed
compressor from 130 ml (4 1/3 fl oz), and drain the calculated volume of oil from the new
compressor: 130 ml (4 1/3 fl oz) - Volume of oil from removed compressor = Volume to drain from
new compressor.
Page 1792
Spark Plug Wires: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Coil Wire connects the Ignition Coil to the Distributor cap. The spark plug wires connect the
terminals in the distributor cap to the spark plugs , allowing high voltage to flow to the spark plugs.
The wires have an internal resistance to suppress radio static.
Page 3923
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 1839
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor, built into the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), senses changes in altitude so that ignition timing and fuel delivery
can be adjusted to maintain consistent engine performance.
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM supplies a 5.0 volt signal and a ground to the sensor. Changes in the pressure
differential between the sealed cavity and the atmosphere cause the silicon to flex. The flexing of
the silicon generates a small voltage which is amplified by the support circuitry and used to modify
the fixed 5.0 volt signal supplied by the PGM-FI ECM. The modified signal is then read by the
PGM-FI ECM.
Page 3836
11. Clean any dirt or grease off the ball joint. 12. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas
shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads.
13. Remove the cotter pin from the steering arm and remove the nut. 14. Install a 12 mm hex nut
on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the
threaded end of the
ball joint.
Insert the jaws carefully, making sure you do not damage the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing
by turning the pressure bolt.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
16. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then
hand- tighten the pressure bolt and recheck the jaws
17. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering
arm.
Warning: Wear eye protection. The ball joint can break loose suddenly and scatter dirt or other
debris in your eyes.
18. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of
the steering/suspension arm.
NOTE: -
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 203
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5568
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5276
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 4988
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 2159
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 3830
Ball Joint: Service and Repair
1. Remove steering knuckle as described under Steering Knuckle /Service and Repair. 2. Remove
lower ball joint dust cover snap ring, then the dust boot. 3. Remove ball joint snap ring. 4. Use ball
joint replacement tool No. 07MAC-SC0020 and ball joint removal base tool No. 07965-SB00300, or
equivalents, to press ball joint out
of steering knuckle.
5. Press replacement ball joint into steering knuckle by hand. 6. Press ball joint into steering
knuckle using ball joint replacement tool No. 07MAC-SC0020 and ball joint installation base tool
No.07965-SB00200, or equivalents.
7. Install ball joint snap ring. 8. Install dust cover and snap ring.
Page 888
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4033
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Sensor voltage at operating temperature
At 3000 RPM........................................................................................................................................
............................................................0.5 Volts During deceleration from 3000 RPM.........................
...........................................................................................................................Below 0.5 Volts
Page 653
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Locations
NOTE: Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash-point solvent before reassembly.
32. Press a new wheel bearing into the hub using the special tools shown and a hydraulic press.
Page 5458
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 2061
PURPOSE
These vehicles are equipped with a PROGRAMMED FUEL INJECTION ELECTRONIC CONTROL
MODULE (PGM-FI ECM). The PGM-FI ECM, located at Passenger side footwell under the carpet,
controls all phases of engine operation. In order to accomplish this control, the PGM-FI ECM relies
on the input from a variety of engine operation sensors.
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM compares input signals with those stored in memory to determine what steps
should be taken to achieve maximum performance, fuel economy, and meet emission standards.
The PGM-FI ECM outputs the necessary signals to the fuel system, ignition system, air control
system, and the emission control systems. The PGM-FI ECM also records any malfunctions in the
monitored systems. When a malfunction is detected, the PGM-FI ECM will insert a
pre-programmed value to substitute for the defective signal, flash the Check Engine light, and store
the malfunction in erasable memory as a numeric code. Additionally, should the PGM-FI ECM itself
fail, their is a back-up circuit which will control the fuel system to allow the vehicle to continue
functioning (Back-up Mode).
Page 4608
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Off ice. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 3711
1. Remove the rear seat back. 2. Disconnect the terminal wires and connectors from the control
unit. 3. Remove the control unit. 4. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: Turn the ignition switch ON and check the 4WS indicator light operation.
Page 3150
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
4. Cut two pieces of EPT Sealer 5T, one measuring 330 x 40 mm, and the other measuring 170 x
40 mm.
5. Peel off the backing and attach the EPT Sealer 5T to the underside of the rear headliner,
between the headliner and the wiring harness.
6. Reinstall the headliner, pushing all of its clips into place. Also, make sure the sides of the
headliner are flush with the rear pillar trim.
7. On cars with a high-mount brake light, reinstall the brake light cover.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Page 1550
Fuse Details Schematics
PURPOSE
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, located in the cylinder head just below the
distributor, delivers an electrical signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) allowing it to adjust the length of injector opening time required by the engine for
optimum performance at all engine temperatures.
OPERATION
As water temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The PGM-FI ECM receives sensor
information as resistance to ground. Coolant temperature information is used by the PGM-FI ECM
to determine proper fuel delivery.
Page 4146
Image 22-11
The speed sensor is a non-contact type which detects the rotating speeds of the wheel. It is
composed of a permanent magnet and coil. When the gear pulsers at each wheel turn, the
magnetic coil in the speed sensor alternates, generating voltages with frequency in proportion to
wheel rotating speed.
Page 5554
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 4663
3. Install the modified spring clips in the slots in the front of the center console.
The odometer driver circuit and the speedometer driver circuit receive pulses from the Vehicle
Speed Sensor (VSS) and, in turn, drive the odometer/tripmeter driver circuit and speedometer
respectively.
Page 4775
23. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN.
PARTS INFORMATION
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1327
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
FUEL PRESSURE
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
3. Remove banjo bolt and disconnect brake hose from caliper, Fig. 11. 4. Remove caliper bolts,
then the caliper.
Installation
1. Install caliper and caliper bolts. 2. Connect brake hose to caliper, then install banjo bolt. 2. Bleed
front brakes, then install wheel and tire assemblies.
Disassembly
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
Page 3219
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 1980
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4510
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 4773
8. Disconnect the lock cylinder rod. Measure the distance "A" on the top of the outer handle rod,
then unscrew the handle from the rod. Remove the handle from the door.
9. Remove the center channel.
10. Disconnect the inner handle rod from the inner handle. Disconnect the lock rod from the crank.
Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 2155
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Locations
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 4750
1. Locate the security system control unit mounted under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst to confirm that you're in the programming mode. The siren then emits
prompting chirps at three-second intervals.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to let you know that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If
you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter or
between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps, and the system exits the
programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch on, then turn it off.
9. Push all the function buttons on each transmitter to make sure they work correctly.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 10
Page 3506
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 2988
ABS Light: Testing and Inspection
The following is a list of problems and solutions related to the ABS indicator light circuit:
1. If the ABS indicator light does not go ON when the ignition switch is turned on, check the
following items. If they are OK, check the ABS control
unit connectors. If not loose or disconnected, substitute a known-good ABS control unit and
recheck: -
- Open circuit in YEL wire between the No. 13 METER (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
and gauge assembly.
- Open circuit in BLU/RED wire between the gauge assembly and ABS control unit.
- Poor ground connection between the ABS control unit and the body.
2. If the ABS indicator light remains ON after the engine is started, however the ABS indicator light
does not blink any DTC's, check the following
items: -
Loose or poor connection of the wire harness at the ABS control unit.
- Open circuit in WHT wire between the ABS B2 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and
ABS control unit.
- Open circuit in BLK/YEL wire between the No. 9 R/C MIRROR (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box and ABS control unit.
- Short circuit in BLU/RED wire between gauge assembly and ABS control unit.
- Open circuit in WHT/BLU wire between alternator and ABS control unit.
If the problem is not found, substitute a known good ABS control unit and recheck whether the ABS
indicator light remains ON.
Page 4360
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 2209
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
CAPACITY, Refill*:
Accord .................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
Prelude ................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
*With the engine at operating temperature, shift transmission through all gears. Turn engine off and
check fluid level within 1 minute.
Page 2146
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 572
Steering Angle Sensor: Adjustments
SUB STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Before adjusting the sub steering angle sensor, check that the front main steering angle
sensor is adjusted properly.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car. 2. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position.
3. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensors are in the electronic neutral
position when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed
before checking the electronic neutral position.
4. Set the parking brake lever and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the parking
brake indicator light turns on. 5. Turn the ignition switch off.
6. Cut the wire tie from the sub steering angle sensor cover, then remove the cover from the sub
steering angle sensor.
CAUTION: Use care when cutting the wire tie so as not to cut into the wire harness.
7. Remove the sub steering angle sensor wire harness from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
Clutch Interlock Switch
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5315
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 2157
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 3152
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5005
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 5719
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 448
INSPECTION
There are two tests of the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor; Electrical test and
Mechanical test.
Electrical Test
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector from the MAP sensor. Turn ignition
on.
MAP Sensor Connector Terminal Identification
2. Measure voltage between RED/WHITE (+) terminal and chassis ground. Voltage should read 5.0
volts. 3. Measure voltage between RED/WHITE (+) terminal and BLUE/WHITE (-) terminal. Voltage
should read 5.0 volts. 4. Measure voltage between WHITE/BLUE (+) terminal and BLUE/WHITE (-)
terminal. voltage should read 5.0 volts. 5. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin
connector at the Map sensor. Connect the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness. Turn ignition switch on.
6. Measure voltage between terminals D17 (+) and D21 (-). Voltage should read 3.0 volts. If not,
replace MAP sensor. If voltage OK, substitute
NOTE: If voltage readings at steps 2,3 and 4 do not test ok, inspect RED/WHITE (+), BLUE/WHITE
(-) and WHITE/BLUE (+) wires between the three pin connector and the PGM-FI ECM harness
connector for shorts and opens.
Mechanical Test
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Campaign - A/C Condenser Corrosion
Technical Service Bulletin # 97-035 Date: 970428
Campaign - A/C Condenser Corrosion
97-035
Applies To: 1994 Prelude - S from VIN JHMBA8 ... RC000001 thru RC099999 (except Si, VTEC)
1995 Prelude - S from VINJHMBA8 ... SC000182 thru 50001963 - Si, SE from VIN JHMBB2 ...
SC000356 thru SC004959 - VTEC from VIN JHMBB1 ... 50000109 thru SC001129
BACKGROUND The potential exists for a problem with the A/C condenser on Preludes that have
been driven in specific geographical areas where corrosive road salt is used for snow and ice
removal, in areas where ocean air is combined with heat and humidity, or in areas subject to acid
rain. Any of these conditions may cause corrosion of the condenser tubes, causing pinholes that
allow the R-134a refrigerant to leak out.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be notified by mail of this
campaign. An example of the customer letter is included in this bulletin.
Page 3352
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 10. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Page 497
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 889
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Mode selection is controlled by the mode switches in the heater control panel and the mode control
motor. When you select a specific mode, voltage is applied through the dimming control circuit to
the LED, which comes ON, indicating the mode selected. Ground is provided to the mode control
motor through that mode switch. The motor then runs until the air control door reaches the proper
position.
Fresh/Recirculation Selection
When you press the fresh/recirculation button, a ground signal is sent from the heater control panel
to the recirculation control motor. The motor then runs until the recirculation door reaches the
opposite position. When the fresh/recirculation button is in the REC position, battery voltage is
applied through the dimming control circuit to the recirculate LED, and the LED comes ON.
Page 2035
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 4576
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 5792
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
SYMPTOM
The blower motor makes a high pitched-noise after running for 15 to 30 minutes on speed 2 or 3.
The frequency of the noise is very high and, therefore, not audible to everyone.
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994 Accord
1HGCD5...RA161285
1992-94 Civic
JHMEG8...RS017038 JHMEH9...RS014811
1HGEJ...RL030207 2HGEJ...RH553868
1992-94 Prelude
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip into place.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter, and install it in the new one.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
8319. For each set ordered, send a dealer check for $24.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this
address:
Alpine Electronics of America 19145 Gramercy Place Torrance, CA 90501 Attention: Al Sula
(Parts)
Alpine's ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Additional transmitters can be ordered
from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures.
If you have questions on how to order the four ROM chip set, call Alpine's Parts Department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Page 3077
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5127
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1589
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5151
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 7.
Page 3765
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 2344
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 929
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4034
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 328
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Check compression with engine at normal operating temperature and throttle in wide open position.
Prior to performing test, disable ignition and fuel injection to prevent fuel from being sprayed into
cylinders while cranking engine. Ensure is fully charged and that cranking speed is 250 RPM.
Standard reading should be 135-185 psi. The maximum variation between cylinders is 28 psi.
A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information
Use Worm-Style Clamps With the ATF Cooler Cleaner
The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF
cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high
pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off
or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop.
In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to
replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and
securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some
more? Just call G-TFC, Inc.
Page 4842
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 644
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Page 5095
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
13. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure the transmission shifts properly.
Disclaimer
Page 3638
18. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the special tool from the rear actuator, and install the cap
bolt and the new sealing washer on the rear
actuator.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 3380
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 5681
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 546
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Page 5150
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1. 5. Remove glove compartment.
Page 1944
PURPOSE
The Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, mounted on the intake manifold, is used to provide a stable idle
under normal operating conditions.
OPERATION
The IAC Valve is powered by ignition switch terminal Ign. 1 and receives power anytime the ignition
is turned ON. The Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) controls
the ground circuit. The valve is used to correct idle speed when out of normal operating
parameters. Idle speed is modified by allowing air to bypass the throttle plate through the IAC
Valve. By varying the current of the signal to the IAC Valve the PGM-FI ECM is able to control the
position of the IAC Valve plunger.
Locations
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
................... 0.23 - 0.28mm (0.009 - 0.011 inches) Exhaust ...............................................................
.................................................................................................... 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.013
inches)
Page 4205
Connect battery power to terminal C and ground terminal B, and connect a test light between
terminals A and C.
Dip the A/C thermostat into a cup filled with ice water, and check the test light.
The light should go OFF at 37°F (3°C) or less, and should come ON at 39°F (4°C) or more.
If the light doesn't come on and go off as specified, replace the A/C thermostat.
Page 5412
Seat Belt And Ignition Key Reminders
Page 5272
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 1565
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Caster is the tilting of the wheel axis either forward or backward from the vertical (when viewed
from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the
short and long arm type suspension you cannot see a caster angle without a special instrument,
but if you look straight down from the top of the upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do
not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle,
the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead (toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint
center line.
Page 115
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
gear case.
12. Hold the rear balancer shaft with a 6 x 100 mm bolt, then install the balancer driven gear.
Page 806
Concentration Minimum 50 %
Maximum 60 %
Page 5129
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
5. If starter still does not crank engine, bypass ignition switch circuit as follows:
a. Disconnect black/white wire from solenoid terminal on starter. b. Connect a jumper wire from
battery positive terminal to solenoid terminal. c. If starter cranks engine, check for an open in
black/white wire circuit between starter and ignition switch. If circuit is satisfactory, check
d. On models with automatic transaxle, check neutral safety switch and connector. e. On models
with manual transaxle, check starter relay, clutch interlock switch and connectors.
6. If starter still does not crank engine, remove and diagnose for internal problems. 7. Check
voltage and current draw, then compare as follows:
a. Cranking voltage should be no less than 8.5 volts and current draw should not be more than 350
amps. b. Engine speed when cranking on both reduction gear and direct drive starters should be
above 100 RPM. If engine speed is not at least 100
RPM, check for loose battery or starter terminals, worn starter brushes, open circuit in commuter
segments, dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear, and defective drive gear overrunning
clutch.
a. On models with manual transaxle, press clutch pedal to floor. b. Turn ignition switch to Start and
release to Run. c. If starter drive gear hangs up on flywheel or flex plate, check solenoid plunger
and switch for malfunction or drive gear assembly for dirty or
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Locations
Power Distribution
Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
NOTE: Hold the steering wheel in this position until adjustment is completed. If the steering wheel
is moved in error, repeat the adjustment procedure starting with step 10.
11. Turn the front sub steering angle sensor slowly clockwise, and check the range from where the
light starts to blink to where it stops. 12. Loosen the front sub steering angle sensor. Repeat the
step 11 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the range from
NOTE: ^ Turn the front sub steering angle sensor clockwise to make the 4WS indicator light blink. ^
If the sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off, disconnect
the connector, and straighten the wire.
13. Tighten the locknut while holding the front sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
Page 1263
8. Remove the dipstick and the dipstick tube. Make sure you cover the hole to keep debris out of
the oil pan.
9. Raise the vehicle, and remove the left front wheel.
10. Remove the mounting bolts from the driver's side half of the splash shield. Pull back the splash
shield, and secure it so you can access the crankshaft pulley.
11. Use the special tools and a wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, then remove the
pulley.
12. Remove the three mounting bolts from the lower cover. Pry the bottom of the cover away from
the block about an inch, and use a socket or similar tool to hold it there.
Locations
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1817
Exhaust: 0.27 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.013 in)
4. Tighten the locknut and check clearance again. Repeat adjustment if not within spec.
5. Rotate crankshaft 180° counterclockwise (camshaft pulley will turn 90°). The "UP" mark should
be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No.3
cylinder.
6. Rotate crankshaft 180° counter clockwise to bring No.4 piston to TDC. Both TDC grooves are
once again visible. Adjust valves on No.4 cylinder.
7. Rotate crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No.2 piston to TDC. The "UP" mark should be
on the intake side. Adjust valves on No.2
cylinder.
8. Re-torque crankshaft pulley bolt to 250Nm (181 ft.lbs). Install cylinder head cover.
Page 862
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4484
^ Handle a CD by its edges; never touch the flat surfaces. Contamination from fingerprints, liquids,
felt-tip pens, and labels can cause the CD to not play properly, or possibly jam in the drive.
^ When cleaning a disc, use a clean soft cloth. Wipe across the disc from the center to the outside.
Do not wipe the disc in a circular motion.
^ A new CD may be rough on the inner and outer edges. The small plastic pieces causing this
roughness can flake off and fall on the recording surface of the disc, causing skipping or other
problems. Remove these pieces by rubbing the inner and outer edges with the side of a pencil or
pen.
^ Various accessories are available to protect CDs and improve the sound quality of CDs. These
accessories increase the thickness or diameter of the discs, and should not be used in CD
changers.
Disclaimer
Locations
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 1075
Balance Shaft Gear Drive Installation
11. Apply molybdenum disulfide to the thrust surfaces of the balancer gears as shown, before
installing the balancer driven gear and the balancer drive
gear case.
12. Hold the rear balancer shaft with a 6 x 100 mm bolt, then install the balancer driven gear.
Locations
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap. 3. Use a box end
wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the top of the fuel filter, while holding the special banjo bolt with
another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY loosen the 6mm service bolt
one complete turn.
5. Remove the 12mm banjo bolt and the fuel feed hose from the filter. 6. Remove the fuel filter
clamp and the fuel filter. 7. Reverse above procedure to install, replace washers as shown in
illustration. 8. Torque the banjo bolt to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft), torque fuel filter clamp bolt to 10 Nm (7
lb-ft), torque high pressure fuel line to 38 Nm (27 lb-ft).
Removal and Installation
Blower Motor: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
Blower Unit Replacement
CAUTION: -
All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any part of an
SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors.
- Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be
careful not to bump the SRS unit; the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or
injuries.
NOTE: The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before: -
- removing the No.43 (10 A) fuse from the under- hood fuse/relay box.
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
NOTE: The blower motor, recirculation control motor, and blower resistor can be replaced without
removing the blower unit.
2a. Remove the four self-tapping screws and the heater duct.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Front
Removal
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
1. Refer to Fig. 5 when replacing calipers. 2. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove wheel
and tire assemblies.
Page 849
- The brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of the modulator tank with a syringe. It may
also be drained through the pump joint after disconnecting the pump hose.
- Loosen the bleed screw and pump the brake pedal to drain the brake fluid from the master
cylinder.
WARNING: High-pressure fluid will squirt out if the shaded hose and pipe are removed.
Page 5237
Low Fuel Indicator System
Page 4961
Fig. 40 Set/resume Switch Steering Wheel Location Test. W/Air Bag
7. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 40. 8. If there is no continuity
in any position, replace set/resume switch. 9. If there is continuity in every switch position, replace
cable reel.
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 3598
(4WS): If adjustment is required, go to step 5.
If no adjustment is required, remove alignment equipment or continue alignment.
6. Adjust the rear camber by turning the adjusting bolt until camber is correct. 7. Install the new
self-locking nut and tighten while holding the adjusting bolt.
Caster Inspection
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
1. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position. 2. Check the caster angle.
3. If adjustment is required, record the caster reading, then go to step 4. If adjustment is not
required, remove alignment equipment.
NOTE: Caster angle can be adjusted by increasing/decreasing the number of the adjusting shims.
Remove and install the radius rod each time the caster angle is adjusted.
4. Raise the front end of the car and place safety stands in the proper locations. 5. Remove the
self-locking nut on the end of the radius rod. 6. Remove the radius rod attaching bolts at the lower
arm, then remove the radius rod.
- One adjusting shim changes the caster angle by 40' and the caster angle can be adjusted by 1°
20' maximum.
NOTE: ^ Do not use more than two adjusting shims. ^ After the adjustment, tighten the self-locking
nut to the specified torque.
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
11. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess 5 to 10 mm (0.2 to 0.4 in.) from the clip.
12. Secure the end of the boot band by tapping it down over the clip with a hammer.
13. Make sure that the boot band and clip do not interfere with anything and that the band does not
move.
14. If necessary, repeat steps 5 through 13 to install the boot band on the small end of the boot.
Disclaimer
Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Service Precautions
Steering Gear: Service Precautions
WARNING:
- To avoid rendering the SRS inoperative, which could lead to personal injury or death in the event
of severe frontal collision, all SRS service work must be performed by an authorized mechanic.
- Improper service procedures, including incorrect removal and installation of the SRS, could lead
to personal injury caused by unintentional activation of the air bags.
- Do not bump the SRS unit. Otherwise, the system may fail in cause of a collision, or the ai bags
may deploy when the ignition switch is ON (II).
- All SRS electrical wiring harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Related components are
located in the steering column, front console, dashboard lower panel, and in the dashboard above
the glove box. Do not use electrical test equipment on these circuits.
Page 3842
42. Install the sensor wire with the two bolts.
43. Install the brake disc with the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws.
44. Install the brake caliper with the caliper mounting bolts. 45. Install the brake hose with the brake
hose mounting 46. Tighten the new spindle nut,
NOTE: Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and inside of the
wheel.
47. Install the wheel with the wheel nuts. 48. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if
necessary.
Page 1734
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor, mounted on and driven by the throttle body unit, is used by the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to detect throttle movement
and position.
OPERATION
A 5 volt reference signal is applied from the PGM-FI ECM and a ground signal. When the throttle is
opened the sensor resistance changes which is read as a varying voltage signal. At idle position
the sensor voltage is approx. 0.5 Volts and at full throttle approx. 4.5 Volts.
Page 4041
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Description and Operation
Power Steering Pump Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
Power Steering Speed Sensor
The power steering speed sensor is a trochoid-rotor, hydraulic pump combined with a relief valve
and a one- way valve. It is driven by the speedometer gear shaft which in turn is driven by a helical
gear on the differential. The power steering speed sensor turns only when the car is moving,
controlling the gain control valve.
The constant pressure is generated by the pressure control valve. This pressure is used as a
reference pressure for the response to the car's speed. By introducing this pressure to the power
steering speed sensor through the sensor orifice, the pressure downstream of the orifice is
changed according to the speed of the car.
With the engine running at idle in a parked car, fluid flow through the sensor rotors is blocked
because the rotors are not turning. Therefore the gain control valve moves to the left. On the gain
control valve, the orifice resistance is high on pump side, while it is low on the reservoir side, with
the result that pressure in the reaction chamber is lowered and steering assist is high.
Page 4990
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Specifications
Fuel Injector Resistor: Specifications
FUEL INJECTOR RESISTOR
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 4402
NOTES:
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE
buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or
programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the
programming mode.
3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power
door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters.
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit
programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
Page 4728
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 2729
P/N 46980-SD4-931, H/C 4957965
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 894
Fuse: Electrical Diagrams
Power Distribution
Page 2867
* REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transmission from the vehicle (see the Manual Transmission section of the
appropriate service manual).
2. Disassemble the transmission (see the Manual Transmission section of the appropriate service
manual). You do not need to disassemble the differential.
3. Remove any metal particles from the transmission's internal parts and from the inside of the
case.
Page 3966
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
Wheel bearings and hub on these models are an integral assembly and bearings cannot be
adjusted. If hub endplay exceeds 0.002 inch (0.05 mm) with spindle nut properly tightened, hub
and bearing assembly should be replaced.
Page 4858
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4173
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 1927
8. Measure voltage between D10 (+) terminal and A26 (-) terminal. While measuring, turn headlight
switch to second position (low). Voltage should
9. If voltage drops but DTC indication or symptom still exist substitute known good PGM-FI ECM.
Page 5733
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
PURPOSE
The Spark Plug creates a spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture by causing the high current of the
secondary circuit to jump the gap to ground.
OPERATION
Paths for this current are through the ground electrode and center electrode across the spark gap.
The spark produced when the current jumps the gap ignites the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. The
temperature range of the spark plug is determined by the length of the insulator and the size of the
heatsink area. The longer the insulator, the smaller the heatsink area , this allows the insulator to
burn off any deposits. A short insulator and large heatsink is used for extended high speed
operation where cylinder temperatures are high, helping reduce preignition. The center electrode
temperature ranges from a low of 392°F (200°C) at 10 m.p.h. to a high of 1472°F (800°C) at 80
m.p.h..
Service and Repair
Clutch Slave Cylinder: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect and plug clutch hydraulic hose from slave cylinder. 2. Remove slave cylinder to
clutch housing attaching bolts, then slave cylinder. 3. Reverse procedure to install. Bleed hydraulic
system.
Page 3472
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
^ *If the seal is cocked or backed out, replace the seal. Replace the timing belt and balancer belt if
they are contaminated with oil (refer to section 6 of the appropriate service manual). Then go to
step 14. This repair requires DSM approval.
^ *If the oil seal has backed out, causing internal engine damage from extended driving with a
complete loss of oil, contact your DSM.*
5. Loosen the mounting hardware for the power steering pump and the alternator. Then loosen the
adjusting bolts 20 turns (this is for reference during reassembly).
6. Remove the power steering pump belt and the alternator belt.
7. DOHC Prelude only: Remove the power steering reservoir and the power steering pump, and set
them aside. Do not disconnect any power steering fluid lines.
Locations
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Locations
1. Warm engine up to operating temperature (the radiator cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn ignition
off. 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.
Measure the resistance between the two terminals at the ECT.
Resistance should measure roughly 200-400 ohms. If resistance is outside range replace the ECT.
NOTE: If the ECT tests ok but symptom or DTC indication persist see DTC troubleshooting for DTC
6.
Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 3625
When the car is moving in reverse, the power steering speed sensor also turns backward and
pumps fluid in the opposite direction. To avoid building up pressure in the reaction chambers that
would increase steering effort while driving in reverse, the inlet and outlet-ports are connected by a
second internal passage containing a relief valve that allows the fluid to recirculate.
Page 1710
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Service and Repair
Power Steering Bleeding: Service and Repair
When a power steering pump or gear has been installed, or an oil line has been disconnected, the
air that has entered the system must be bled out before the vehicle is operated. If air is allowed to
remain in the power steering fluid system, noisy and unsatisfactory operation of the system may
result. When bleeding the system, and any time fluid is added to the power steering system, be
sure to use only automatic transmission fluid labeled "DEXRON-IIE".
1. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper label and let the fluid settle for at least two minutes. 2.
Start the engine and let it run for a few seconds. Do not turn the steering wheel. Then turn the
engine off. 3. Add fluid if necessary. 4. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid level remains
constant after running the engine. 5. Raise the front end of the vehicle so that the front wheels are
off the ground. 6. Start the engine. Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting
the wheel stops. 7. Add power steering fluid if necessary. 8. Bring down the vehicle, set the
steering wheel at the straight forward position after turning it to its full steer positions 2 or 3 times,
and stop the
engine.
9. Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and refill as required.
10. If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the above
procedure. 11. Inspect:
a. Belt for tightness. b. Pulley for looseness or damage. The pulley should not wobble with the
engine running. c. Hoses so they are not touching any other parts of the vehicle. d. Fluid level and
fill to the proper level.
Page 2787
1. Remove the front console.
2. Use a bench grinder to remove one ear from each new spring clip.
Page 2360
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent excessively cocking the brake disc.
8. Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. 9. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod end remover.
10. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way. 11. Using ball joint
remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint and lower arm. 12. Remove
upper ball joint shield, then cotter pin and nut. 13. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm using
suitable ball joint remover. 14. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off driveshaft.
15. Remove two splash guard to knuckle attaching screws. 16. Remove hub from steering knuckle
using suitable press. 17. Remove remaining splash guard to knuckle attaching screw, then the
splash guard. 18. Remove outboard dust seal and snap ring from steering knuckle, then the
outboard inner bearing race and bearing. 19. Flip knuckle over, then remove inboard dust seal,
inboard inner bearing race and bearing. 20. Using suitable press, remove bearing outer race from
steering knuckle. 21. Remove outboard bearing inner race with bearing remover. 22. Remove
outboard dust seal from hub.
Page 701
Air/Fuel Mixture: Adjustments
The fuel mixture is controlled by the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI
ECM), and is not adjustable.
interior - Headliner Rattles
SYMPTOM
A rattle from the rear headliner when the car is driven on a rough road.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Vibration of the ceiling light/sunroof/high-mount brake light wiring harness against the rear
headliner.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994-95: - ALL
REQUIRED MATERIALS
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Apply EPT Sealer 5T to the rear headliner, where it contacts the wiring harness. Be careful not to
scratch or damage the headliner or other interior trim parts.
1. On cars with a high-mount brake light, remove the brake light cover.
Page 4498
Fuse Details Schematics
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal Installation Tool
Balance Shaft Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal Installation Tool
99-037
Applies To: 1990-99 Accord - ALL with L4 engine 1992-99 Prelude - ALL 1995-98 Odyssey - ALL
A special tool is required to properly install the front balancer shaft oil seal on the vehicles listed
above.
The balancer shaft oil seal installation procedure in the service manual does not install the balancer
shaft oil seal to the proper depth. Improper oil seal installation depth may cause premature oil seal
failure. The procedure in the service manual should not be used. Cross out the balancer shaft oil
seal installation procedure in the service manuals, and refer to this service bulletin.
Seal Installer: T/N O7XAF-PT00100, H/C 6186050 (Shipped to all current dealers on May 25,
1999)
Additional seal installers are available from American Honda using normal parts ordering
procedures.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
PROCEDURE
1. Clean the balancer shaft and the balancer shaft oil seal housing with contact cleaner.
2. Dry the balancer shaft and the balancer shaft oil seal housing.
3. Apply a light coat of grease to the balancer shaft and to the lip of the new seal. Do not lubricate
or apply sealant to the outside of the seal.
5. Place the seal installer on the balancer shaft, then thread the installer shaft into the balancer
shaft.
Page 1714
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 364
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Locations
The Test Tachometer Connector is Located in front of the right strut tower.
Page 2520
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 1442
S Models without A/C
Page 3777
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 4805
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
jumper wire.
3. Turn ignition switch to On position. 4. Check as needle of coolant temperature gauge starts
moving toward H mark. Turn ignition switch to Off position before pointer reaches H
a. Blown fuse in under dash fuse/relay box. b. Open in yellow/green wire, yellow or red wire. c. If
fuse and wiring are satisfactory, replace coolant temperature gauge.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 4218
1. Before adding any leak-detection dye, check to see if there is dye in the system now.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Page 4785
23. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN.
PARTS INFORMATION
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 14, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, a system malfunction is indicated.
Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag Systems/Testing and
Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Page 5132
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
4. Install the shim between the door stiffener and the door. Place the shim between the legs of the
spring tab.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 7.
Page 3098
6. Remove the piston by rotating the piston counterclockwise with the special tool and remove the
piston boot.
CAUTION: Avoid damaging the piston.
8. Install the special tool between the caliper body and spring cover.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the inside of the caliper cylinder during caliper disassembly.
9. Position the locknuts as shown, then turn the shaft until the plate just contacts the caliper body.
Page 5083
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 372
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2022
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5645
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Throttle Body With Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Adj. Screw Location.
Page 3736
18. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the special tool from the rear actuator, and install the cap
bolt and the new sealing washer on the rear
actuator.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 440
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations
The Intake Air Temperature Sensor is located on the intake manifold facing the firewall towards the
left side.
Page 2221
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Locations
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), located rear of the transmission on the differential, is used by
the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to determine vehicle
speed and by the speedometer to drive the trip odometer/mileage odometer stepper motors and
the speedometer driver to indicate vehicle speed.
OPERATION
The speed sensor pulses the signal wire, switching its connection to ground on and off. The
number of pulses increasing with vehicle speed. This signal is used to operate the stepper motors
for the trip/mileage odometer, and the speedometer driver to indicate vehicle speed. This same
signal is used by the PGM-FI ECM to determine vehicle speed for PGM-FI operation.
Page 2524
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is integral to the distributor housing and must be replaced as an
assembly.
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
Page 4804
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 2294
Idle Speed: Adjustments
CANADIAN VEHICLES: Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the
headlights are off.
1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the cooling fan comes on).
Turn ignition off. 2. Connect a tachometer.
3. Disconnect the two pin connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. 4. Start engine and
check idle speed in no-load condition (the headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, cooling fan, and
air conditioner are not
operating).
5. Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw. 6. Turn the ignition switch
OFF.
Page 5655
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 3. Remove SRS unit left and right covers
from SRS unit. 4. Disconnect SRS control unit connector. 5. Remove four SRS control unit
mounting bolts, then control unit from vehicle. 6. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition switch in
On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
7. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 2953
1. Disconnect the connector from the shift control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No.1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the shift control solenoid
valve connector and body ground and between
3. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4. If the
resistance is within the standard, connect the No. 1 terminal of the shift control solenoid valve
connector to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if no clicking
sound is heard.
Page 2154
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 4995
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
1. Drain engine coolant, then radiator hoses and ATF cooler hoses, Fig. 75. 2. Disconnect fan
motor electrical connections, then remove radiator upper brackets. 3. Pull up and remove radiator,
then remove fan shroud assemblies and other parts as necessary. 4. Reverse procedure to install.
4WS Control Unit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3645
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
PURPOSE
The Spark Plug creates a spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture by causing the high current of the
secondary circuit to jump the gap to ground.
OPERATION
Paths for this current are through the ground electrode and center electrode across the spark gap.
The spark produced when the current jumps the gap ignites the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. The
temperature range of the spark plug is determined by the length of the insulator and the size of the
heatsink area. The longer the insulator, the smaller the heatsink area , this allows the insulator to
burn off any deposits. A short insulator and large heatsink is used for extended high speed
operation where cylinder temperatures are high, helping reduce preignition. The center electrode
temperature ranges from a low of 392°F (200°C) at 10 m.p.h. to a high of 1472°F (800°C) at 80
m.p.h..
Page 1746
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral 7. After
adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 4131
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4067
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
The odometer driver circuit and the speedometer driver circuit receive pulses from the Vehicle
Speed Sensor (VSS) and, in turn, drive the odometer/tripmeter driver circuit and speedometer
respectively.
Page 4740
system will not enter the programming mode.)
3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close
and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
NOTE:
On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the
transmitter a second time.
1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock.
2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more
times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.)
4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position,
three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm
that the chirp has been turned on/off.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1969
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 2057
The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high
temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and
open the circuit This removes ground, and the compressor will stop running.
Page 3805
47. Install valve body unit onto gear housing, tighten attaching bolts to specifications. When
installing valve body unit, be careful not to hit pinion
holder pin and ensure O-rings are in place and not pinched.
48. When installing boot band, ensure rack is in its straight ahead position.
49. Install boot band so locking tabs of band are in range, Fig. 19. 50. Install new boot bands on
boot and bend both sets of locking tabs. 51. Lightly tap on doubled-over portions to reduce their
height. 52. Install band cushion and air hose band, then position band, Fig. 19, and tighten it. 53.
Install air hose, then slide rack right and left to ensure boots are not deformed or twisted.
Rear
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 679
Standard:
Steel Wheel: 0 - 1.0 mm (0 - 0.04 in) Aluminum Wheel: 0 - 0.7 mm (0 - 0.03 in)
Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil Capacity
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
Specified viscosities:
Specified viscosities:
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1373
3. Check that the rotor is still pointing toward the No. 1 cylinder, then align the index mark on the
housing with the index mark on the coupling. 4. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral
7. After adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 5213
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 2660
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 1778
Fuel Filter: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke during the test. Keep open flames away from your work area. Be sure to
relieve fuel pressure while engine is off.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap. 3. Use a box end
wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the top of the fuel filter, while holding the special banjo bolt with
another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY loosen the 6mm service bolt
one complete turn.
5. Remove the 12mm banjo bolt and the fuel feed hose from the filter. 6. Remove the fuel filter
clamp and the fuel filter. 7. Reverse above procedure to install, replace washers as shown in
illustration. 8. Torque the banjo bolt to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft), torque fuel filter clamp bolt to 10 Nm (7
lb-ft), torque high pressure fuel line to 38 Nm (27 lb-ft).
Page 5058
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Page 5391
Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3434
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 4351
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 3541
Defect Code: 07406
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Page 505
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Clutch Pedal Assembly: All Technical Service Bulletins Clutch - Creaking From the Pedal
APPLICABLE TO ALL
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Lubricate the bushings, and spread the tabs on the clutch pedal assist spring bracket.
3. Reinstall the spring by putting the ends back in the bushings, then depress the clutch pedal and
install the center of the spring into the clutch pedal bushing.
Page 4439
Page 3679
A properly adjusted belt should deflect about 11 - 13 mm (0.43 - 0.51 in.) when you push on it
mid-way between the pulleys with a force of about 98 N (10kg, 22 lbs).
NOTE: On a brand new belt, the deflection should be 9 - 11 mm (0.35 - 0.43 in.) when first
measured.
1. Loosen the pulley bolt and turn the adjusting bolt to get proper tension, then retighten the pulley
bolt. 2. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times, then recheck
the belt tension.
Locations
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 5314
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 3883
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 413
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Locations
INSPECTION
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
Photo 6
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
REASSEMBLY
Rotor Positioning
1. Install the rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (toward the No. 1 cylinder).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to the originals in load capacity, specified
dimension and mounting configuration. Improper size or type may affect bearing life, brake
performance, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to
the body and chassis. All model are equipped with metric sized tubeless steel belted radial tires.
Correct tire pressures and driving habits have an important influence on tire life. Heavy cornering,
excessively rapid acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking increase premature and uneven
wear.
The original equipment tires have built-in tread wear indicators (1) to show when tires need
replacement. These indicators may appear as wide bands. When the indicators appear in two or
more grooves at three locations, tire replacement is recommended.
Page 2102
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal D12 (+) and terminal D22 (-).
^ With no vacuum applied to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, voltage should read
approx. 1.2 volts.
^ With 8 in. hg. of vacuum applied to the EGR Valve, voltage should read approx. 4.3 volts.
3. If voltage is not read or voltage reading does not change when vacuum is applied to the EGR
Valve, replace the EGR Valve and Lift Sensor
assembly.
Electrical Specifications
Alternator: Electrical Specifications
80 Amp
[01] --
@ 68°F.
90 Amp
[01] -- @ 68°F.
95 Amp
[01] -- @ 68°F.
Page 247
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Rear
Refer to Fig. when replacing rear speed sensor.
Campaign - Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal Replacement
00-073
Product Update: Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal (Supersedes 00-073, dated October 6, 2000)
BACKGROUND
The front balancer shaft oil seal may back out of the oil pump housing over time. If this happens,
the oil can be rapidly pumped out of the engine without warning, causing serious engine damage if
you continue to drive.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Page 5648
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Locations
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
ABS Pressure Switch
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation ABS Pressure Switch
The pressure switch monitors the pressure accumulation in the accumulator and is turned off when
the pressure becomes lower than a prescribed level. When the pressure switch is turned off, the
switching signal is sent to the control unit. Upon receiving the signal, the control unit activates the
pump motor relay to operate the motor.
Page 1570
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4542
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Off ice. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3128
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 686
^ Loosen the tie-rod locknuts and turn both tie-rods in the same direction until the rear wheels are
in straight ahead position.
NOTE: Make sure the 4WS indicator is ON.
^ Turn both tie-rods equally until the toe is correct. ^ After adjusting, tighten the tie-rod locknuts.
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized tour wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
1. Jack up the front of the car. Set the turning radius gauges beneath the front wheels, then lower
the car. 2. 2WS: Jack up the rear of the car. Place boards that are the same thickness as the
turning radius gauges under the rear wheels, then lower the car.
4WS: Jack up the rear of the car. Set the turning radius gauges beneath the rear wheels, then
lower the car.
3. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brake. Measure the turning angle of both front
wheels, and both rear wheels (4WS models).
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 3884
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Page 4468
5. Insert a thin stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1-1/2" from the right
side of the opening.
6. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
2. Remove the top cover plate from the changer, and look for a jammed tray.
3. If a tray is stuck in the player, reinstall the cover and replace the changer. If all the trays are in
the magazine, insert a thin stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from
the right side of the opening.
4. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Page 5070
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Locations
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA by authorized Honda Dealers only. Send
a completed order form,* (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer
Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.), to this
address:
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at
(800)852-4690, or Fax them at (310) 898-1029 (weekdays, from 8:30 A.M. thru 4:00 PM., PST).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your Dealership C.O.D. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
*On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
Procedure 5
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during the procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
wheel cover flashes when the system is in the programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. The parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's
code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. The parking lights flash after each
transmitter code is accepted.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve. The EGR Valve
is located at the right corner of the intake manifold near the ignition distributor.
Specifications
Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed): Specifications
TORQUE VALUE
TEMPERATURE / OPERATION
3. Fill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap. 4. Start the engine
and allow it to idle for a few minutes, then stop it. Check the fluid level in the modulator reservoir
and refill to the MAX level line
if necessary.
5. Bleed high-pressure fluid from the maintenance bleeder with the special tool. 6. Start the engine
and allow it to idle for a few minutes, then stop it. Check the fluid level in the modulator reservoir
and refill to the MAX level line
if necessary.
7. Turn the Mode Selector switch of the checker to 2. 8. While depressing the brake pedal firmly,
push the "Start Test" switch to operate the modulator. There should be kickback on the brake
pedal. If
NOTE: Continue to depress the brake pedal firmly when operating the checker.
Page 1181
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 357
Fuse Details Schematics
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4298
NOTE: Prior to disassemble, mark rollers and roller grooves. Refer to Fig. 1 for driveshaft service.
1. Remove set ring from inboard joint. 2. Remove boot band by prying up locking tabs with
screwdriver and raising end of band. 3. Remove inboard joint, then remove rollers from spider. 4.
Remove circlip, then the spider from shaft using suitable bearing remover. 5. Remove stopper ring.
6. Wrap splines on driveshaft with vinyl tape to prevent damaging boots and dynamic damper, then
remove boot band and inboard boot. 7. Remove dynamic damper band and dynamic damper. 8.
Remove boot bands and outboard boot, then the vinyl tape. 9. Reverse procedure to install, noting
the following:
a. Pack inboard and outboard joints with molybdenum disulfide grease. b. Install rollers on spider
shafts, then slide spider assembly into inboard shaft joint. Avoid getting grease on rubber parts. c.
Position boots and install small end bands, then expand and compress boots until they return to
their normal shape and length. d. Install large end bands.
Page 4168
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 2457
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor, mounted on and driven by the throttle body unit, is used by the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to detect throttle movement
and position.
OPERATION
A 5 volt reference signal is applied from the PGM-FI ECM and a ground signal. When the throttle is
opened the sensor resistance changes which is read as a varying voltage signal. At idle position
the sensor voltage is approx. 0.5 Volts and at full throttle approx. 4.5 Volts.
Page 481
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 424
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is integral to the distributor housing and must be replaced as an
assembly.
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
Page 5098
Saftey Indicators
Seats - Noise from The Drivers Side Track
Seat Track: All Technical Service Bulletins Seats - Noise from The Drivers Side Track
Bulletin No. 94-017
Applicable To ALL
Issue Date
JUNE 3, 1994
SYMPTOM
When accelerating at low speeds or when stopping, a one-time click or creak is heard. The noise
may sound like it is coming from the "A" pillar area.
PROBABLE CAUSE
A lack of grease in the seat track slides allows the seat track rollers to move slightly.
DIAGNOSIS
Drive the car at low speeds while holding the left seat track. During acceleration and stopping, the
click or creak movement of the roller in the seat track should be felt.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Off ice. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Adjust the seat tracks, and apply additional grease to the slides.
1. Loosen the four seat track bolts; then, move the seat all the way back. Check to be sure that
both seat tracks are locked into position.
2. Torque the two front seat track bolts to 34 N-m (3.5 kg-m, 25 lb.ft.).
3. Move the seat all the way forward, and check to be sure that both seat tracks are locked into
position.
Page 5022
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 5797
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4974
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 2048
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 4159
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 3229
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 4791
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 4129
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 3053
Reassembly
WARNING:
- When reusing the pads, install them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint: if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passage with compressed air.
- Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
NOTE:
- Coat piston, piston seal, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
Coat the new cam boot with recommended grease and install it in the caliper body.
3. Apply recommended grease to the pin contacting area of the cam and install the cam and lever
assembly into the caliper body.
Page 487
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 1178
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1703
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 2534
PURPOSE
The Spark Plug creates a spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture by causing the high current of the
secondary circuit to jump the gap to ground.
OPERATION
Paths for this current are through the ground electrode and center electrode across the spark gap.
The spark produced when the current jumps the gap ignites the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. The
temperature range of the spark plug is determined by the length of the insulator and the size of the
heatsink area. The longer the insulator, the smaller the heatsink area , this allows the insulator to
burn off any deposits. A short insulator and large heatsink is used for extended high speed
operation where cylinder temperatures are high, helping reduce preignition. The center electrode
temperature ranges from a low of 392°F (200°C) at 10 m.p.h. to a high of 1472°F (800°C) at 80
m.p.h..
Page 1720
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Page 558
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal B8 (+) and A26 (-). Voltage should read less than 1.0 volt. If
not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP
If there is more than 1.0 volt, inspect for opens in RED/GREEN (+) wire and/or BLACK (-) wire.
^ If there is less than 1.0 volt, replace the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch.
3. Start the engine. turn the steering wheel slowly. Measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+)
and terminal A26 (-) while steering wheel is turning.
Voltage should read battery voltage. If not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP switch and
measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+) and terminal A26 (-). ^
^ If voltage measures less than 1.0 volt, inspect for short in RED/GREEN (+) wire between PGM-FI
ECM and PSP switch and/or substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
Knuckle/Hub
Removal
1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in proper
locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel.
4. Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut.
Page 5209
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 4587
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition and electrical consumers off. 2. Remove under hood fuse/relay box and remove
lower cover. 3. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Electrical Load Detector (ELD). Turn
ignition switch on.
4. Measure voltage between BLACK/YELLOW (+) terminal and BLACK (-) terminal. Voltage should
read battery voltage. (If not repair open in
5. Measure voltage between GREEN/BLACK terminal and BLACK (-) terminal. voltage should read
approx. 5.0 volts. (If not, inspect
GREEN/BLACK wire at the three pin connector and PGM-GI ECM terminal D10. IF wire OK,
substitute known good Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM)).
6. Turn ignition off. Reconnect three pin connector. Install Test Harness between PGM-FI ECM and
connectors. 7. Start engine and run at Idle.
Page 4371
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 5032
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5168
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Wheel Bearing: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
97-018
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Photo 10
The Fuel Filter, mounted on the firewall towards the right side of the vehicle, is used to stop dirt,
sand and other foreign matter from entering the fuel injectors.
OPERATION
When the fuel flows under pressure from the fuel pump it passes through the fuel filter assembly.
Dirt, sand and other particles are trapped in the treated paper filter inside the housing. The Filter
element is an integral component of the Fuel Filter housing and they are replaced as an assembly.
Page 2772
4. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
5. *Remove the outboard joint using the threaded adapter (see REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS) and
a commercially available 5/8" x 18 slide hammer.*
6. Remove and discard the "C" clip from the driveshaft. Clean and inspect the driveshaft splines
and ring groove for burrs or other defects.
7. Install the new outboard joint boot provided in the kit. Slide it slowly onto the driveshaft to avoid
damaging the boot.
8. Install the new "C" clip onto the ring groove of the driveshaft.
9. Insert the driveshaft in the new outboard joint. Make sure the "C" clip is centered on the shaft
and is resting against the chamfered edge of the inner race.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Transmitter Identification
The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not
interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not
open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release
button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1
seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 1872
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 2589
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower panel. 3. Disconnect 5-P and 20-P connectors from main wire
harness.
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 11.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Locations
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
Engine Oil Temperature: 80°C (176°F)
Circuit Schematics
Page 5044
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 4187
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
7. Install the new sleeve set (synchro ring, hub, and sleeve) on the mainshaft.
8. Reassemble the rest of the removed parts on the mainshaft. Refer to the appropriate service
manual for the correct reassembly procedure.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the front sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
15. Check that each sensor is electronically in neutral (see page 17-146).
NOTE: Be sure that the center of the range where the 4WS indicator light blinks (indicating that the
front sub steering angle sensor is electronically in neutral), is in the range ±18 mm (±O.7 in; ±5.5°)
from the center mark on the steering wheel.
16. Reconnect the connector and secure the sub steering angle sensor wire harness with the
clamp and install the cover.
NOTE: ^ Be sure the sensor wire harness does not interfere with the stabilizer or other moving
parts. ^ Be certain that the wire is not twisted before connecting it.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car.
2. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensor are in electrically neutral position,
when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed before
checking the electrically neutral position.
Page 5847
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
93honrep-033
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Seat Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Seat Belt - Tongue Stopper Button Broken
Broken Seat Belt Tongue Stopper Button (Supersedes 93-033, dated October 22, 1993)
PROBLEM
The seat belt tongue stopper button is broken, allowing the tongue to slide down to the floor.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a new seat belt tongue stopper button listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Slide the seat belt tongue up the seat belt past the tongue stopper button hole. Temporarily
secure the seat belt tongue to the belt fabric with masking tape.
2. Insert the male section of the button through the hole in the belt fabric. Align and install the
female section of the stopper to the male section.
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor, mounted on the intake manifold facing the firewall on the
driver's side, provides a signal used by the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) to determine intake air temperature for mixture control.
OPERATION
The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the air intake temperature increases. The PGM-FI
ECM uses this decreasing resistance to adjust the length of injector opening time.
Specifications
Flex Plate: Specifications
For the Specifications for Flex Plate, go to Engine/Specifications.
Page 1636
PURPOSE
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is used to determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder
for sequential fuel injection, normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also
detects engine RPM.
OPERATION
The unit is made up of three separate sensors mounted inside the distributor. The Top Dead
Center (TDC) Sensor, the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, and the Cylinder Position (CYP)
Sensor. All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition
timing and to calculate engine RPM. ^
The TDC sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also
used as a backup signal in the event the CYP sensor signal becomes abnormal.
^ The CYP sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper
timing of the sequential fuel injection system for each cylinder.
^ The CKP sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects
engine speed.
Page 1634
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
The power steering speed sensor is a trochoid-rotor, hydraulic pump combined with a relief valve
and a one- way valve. It is driven by the speedometer gear shaft which in turn is driven by a helical
gear on the differential. The power steering speed sensor turns only when the car is moving,
controlling the gain control valve.
The constant pressure is generated by the pressure control valve. This pressure is used as a
reference pressure for the response to the car's speed. By introducing this pressure to the power
steering speed sensor through the sensor orifice, the pressure downstream of the orifice is
changed according to the speed of the car.
With the engine running at idle in a parked car, fluid flow through the sensor rotors is blocked
because the rotors are not turning. Therefore the gain control valve moves to the left. On the gain
control valve, the orifice resistance is high on pump side, while it is low on the reservoir side, with
the result that pressure in the reaction chamber is lowered and steering assist is high.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 5783
Headlamp Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 5543
Fuse Details Schematics
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS). Turn ignition switch on.
2. Measure voltage between YELLOW/WHITE (+) terminal and GREEN/WHITE (-) terminal.
Voltage should read approx 5.0 volts. If not, measure
^ If 5.0 volts is not measured, Turn ignition switch off, install test harness between PGM-FI ECM
and harness connector, turn ignition on. measure voltage between terminal D20 (+) and D22 (-), if
5.0 volts is measured, inspect for open in YELLOW/WHITE wire between D20 and TPS connector.
If 5.0 volts is not measured, substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
3. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin connector at the TPS. Install the test harness
between the PGM-FI ECM and the harness
4. Measure voltage between terminal D11 (+) and terminal D22 (-). Voltage should read approx.
0.5 volts at closed throttle position and approx. 4.5
volts at full throttle position with a smooth transition in between. If not, replace TPS with known
good part and retest.
Page 5299
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Specifications
Throttle Body: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATION
step. If charge warning lamp does illuminate perform the following: a. Start engine, charge warning
lamp should go off. If charge warning lamp does not go out, continue test. If charge warning lamp
does go out,
b. Turn engine off and disconnect 4-P connector from alternator, then turn ignition switch to On
position. If charge warning lamp illuminates,
disconnect ABS, 4WS and integrated control unit, if equipped. If light still stays on, repair short to
ground in white/blue wire. If charge warning lamp does not illuminate, white/blue wire is OK.
Perform Charging System Test.See: Starting and Charging/Charging System/Testing and
Inspection
2. Turn ignition switch to Off position and check No. 19 fuse. 3. If fuse is blown, replace it. If fuse is
OK, continue test. 4. Disconnect 4-P connector from alternator and turn ignition switch on, then
check for voltage at the IG (black/yellow wire) terminal of 4-P
connector. If battery voltage is not present, repair open in black/yellow wire. If battery voltage is
present, continue test.
5. Ground white/blue wire at L terminal of 4-P connector. If charge warning light does not come on,
repair either blown charge system light bulb or
open in white/blue wire. If charge warning light does come on, replace voltage regulator.
Page 1858
Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3209
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 13 to the brake
system indicator light. If the brake fluid level is low, the brake fluid level switch closes, providing
ground to the circuit. The brake system indicator light comes on, alerting the driver to a low brake
fluid level in the brake master cylinder. (Check brake pad wear before adding fluid.)
Page 3465
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 2085
Power Distribution
Page 2381
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
FUEL PRESSURE
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
NOTE: -
The adjuster is spring loaded to properly tension the belt. Do not apply any extra pressure to the
belt while performing the adjustment.
- Inspect the timing balancer belt before adjusting the belt tension.
- Do not loosen the adjusting nut more than one full turn.
1. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover.
Page 322
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 5775
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 4817
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Circuit Schematics
Page 5133
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4414
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be
accepted.
Page 3134
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 1662
INSPECTION
There are two tests of the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor; Electrical test and
Mechanical test.
Electrical Test
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector from the MAP sensor. Turn ignition
on.
MAP Sensor Connector Terminal Identification
2. Measure voltage between RED/WHITE (+) terminal and chassis ground. Voltage should read 5.0
volts. 3. Measure voltage between RED/WHITE (+) terminal and BLUE/WHITE (-) terminal. Voltage
should read 5.0 volts. 4. Measure voltage between WHITE/BLUE (+) terminal and BLUE/WHITE (-)
terminal. voltage should read 5.0 volts. 5. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin
connector at the Map sensor. Connect the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness. Turn ignition switch on.
6. Measure voltage between terminals D17 (+) and D21 (-). Voltage should read 3.0 volts. If not,
replace MAP sensor. If voltage OK, substitute
NOTE: If voltage readings at steps 2,3 and 4 do not test ok, inspect RED/WHITE (+), BLUE/WHITE
(-) and WHITE/BLUE (+) wires between the three pin connector and the PGM-FI ECM harness
connector for shorts and opens.
Mechanical Test
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
^ Before using the lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make sure
they are not worn out. Each bit has three tips.
^ Do not set the cutting depth on the lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) This is two divisions on
the cutting knob.
^ To refinish, the transmission must be in first gear (D3 or D4, if the shift selector doesn't have a
first gear position; second gear on Preludes with ATTS), with the engine at idle (not fast idle). If the
transmission and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits.
Refinish rear brake discs off the car with conventional disc refinishing equipment.
PURPOSE
The Air Cleaner, mounted on the right fender, traps dirt and other contaminants before they have a
chance to enter the engine.
OPERATION
Air is drawn through the air intake tube, filtered by the Air Cleaner, then passes through the air flow
tube into the air intake chamber and finally into the throttle body. There is also a resonator chamber
connected to the air intake tube which helps reduce airflow noise as air is drawn into the system.
Page 4441
Page 3289
10. A file will be downloaded to your computer. After it is finished, an Internet Explorer - Security
Warning screen appears. Select Run.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
12. Before using the Midtronics update utility, make sure your computer port settings are correct.
Click on: My Computer > Control Panel > System >
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Check compression with engine at normal operating temperature and throttle in wide open position.
Prior to performing test, disable ignition and fuel injection to prevent fuel from being sprayed into
cylinders while cranking engine. Ensure is fully charged and that cranking speed is 250 RPM.
Standard reading should be 135-185 psi. The maximum variation between cylinders is 28 psi.
Page 5221
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 4734
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 2477
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Turn the Ignition off. 2. Disconnect the eight pin connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
3. Measure the resistance between the terminals indicated on the chart for the correct sensor.
Resistance should measure between 350 and 700 ohms.
4. If resistance checks correct, measure for continuity between body ground and each terminal of
the sensor being tested. If any continuity is
5. If all tests good but symptom or DTC indication persists see troubleshooting procedure for DTC's
4/8/9.
Page 4427
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM button and the
CD/TAPE button) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during the
procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm
that you're in the programming mode.
3. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle
to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on all other transmitters. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle.)
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the
programming mode.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 9
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Installation
CAUTION:
Page 5041
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1977
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal D12 (+) and terminal D22 (-).
^ With no vacuum applied to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, voltage should read
approx. 1.2 volts.
^ With 8 in. hg. of vacuum applied to the EGR Valve, voltage should read approx. 4.3 volts.
3. If voltage is not read or voltage reading does not change when vacuum is applied to the EGR
Valve, replace the EGR Valve and Lift Sensor
assembly.
Page 5559
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
DVDs:
A Big Taboo
NOTE:
This article applies to all Honda models with a factory- or dealer-installed CD/DVD player or
changer.
We can't emphasize this enough: Never put adhesive labels or protective disc covers on
recordable CDs or DVDs to be used in automotive CD/DVD players or changers. Here's why:
^ Recordable CDs and DVDs are actually thicker than their pre-recorded brethern. Automotive
players and changers use rollers to draw the disc into the
unit. The added thickness of an adhesive label or a protective disc cover can cause the disc to jam
when it's loaded into or ejected from the unit.
^ CD/DVD players or changers are exposed to high temperatures inside the vehicle. High
temperature can cause the label adhesive to soften. This can
cause the label to curl on the edges and even form bubbles. Curled edges can catch on the rollers
and bubbles add thickness to the disc. Either one can cause the disc to jam.
To cut down on customer-caused damage, all '05 and later 0/Ms include this notice:
Do not use CDs with adhesive labels. The label can curl up and cause the CD to jam in the unit.
Anytime a service customer comes in with a loading or ejecting problem for a CD/DVD player or
changer, ask if he or she used any discs with adhesive labels or protective disc covers. If the
answer is yes, contact your DPSM for possible goodwill assistance. If the answer is no, then
replace the audio unit under normal warranty.
Page 1430
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Circuit Schematics
Page 590
NOTE: ^ The 4W5 indicator light turns on in a narrow range. Do not overlook it. ^ Work with care so
as not to move the rear wheels from this neutral position.
13. Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor slowly counterclockwise, and check the range from
where the light starts to blink, to where it stops. 14. Tighten the rear sub steering angle sensor a
little. Repeat the step 13 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the
range
NOTE: ^ Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor counterclockwise to make the 4WS indicator light
blink. ^ If the rear sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off,
disconnect the connector, and straighten the wire.
15. Tighten the locknut while holding the rear sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
NOTE: Take care not to turn the rear sub steering angle sensor.
16. Disconnect the rear sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire. Reconnect the
connector.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the rear sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
Check for continuity between the terminals in each solenoid plunger position, Fig. 12.
Page 829
1. Before adding any leak-detection dye, check to see if there is dye in the system now.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Locations
Circuit Schematics
Page 3610
Steering Control Module: Testing and Inspection
Electrical Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
ball joint.
Insert the jaws carefully, making sure you do not damage the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing
by turning the pressure bolt.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
16. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then
hand- tighten the pressure bolt and recheck the jaws
17. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering
arm.
Warning: Wear eye protection. The ball joint can break loose suddenly and scatter dirt or other
debris in your eyes.
18. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of
the steering/suspension arm.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 496
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 2363
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 449
MAP Sensor Testing
2. Disconnect #21 vacuum hose from the throttle body and apply vacuum. It should hold vacuum (if
it does not hold vacuum, test MAP sensor
separately from hose. If MAP sensor still does not hold vacuum, replace MAP sensor).
3. Install a tee fitting in line with hose #21 from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. Start engine
and run at idle, measure vacuum. Vacuum should
4. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between PGM-FI ECM and harness connector. Turn
ignition switch on.
5. Measure voltage between terminal D17 (+) and terminal D21 (-). Voltage should read 3.0 volts (if
not, replace MAP sensor). 6. Start engine and run at idle. Voltage should now read 1.0 volt (if not,
replace MAP sensor). If voltage tests OK but DTC indication/symptom still
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair ABS Hydraulic Component Bleeding and Fluid Service
1. Drain brake fluid from master cylinder and modulator reservoir thoroughly. 2. Using bleeder
T-wrench tool No. 07HAJ-SG00101, or equivalent, back out maintenance bleeder screw slowly 90
degrees to collect high pressure
fluid in wrench reservoir, then back screw out one complete turn to drain brake fluid thoroughly.
3. Retighten bleeder screw and discard fluid.
1. Brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of modulator reservoir with a syringe. It may also
be drained through the pump joint after
2. Loosen master cylinder bleed screw and pump brake pedal to drain brake fluid from master
cylinder.
Modulator Unit
CAUTION: Be sure to drain the high-pressure brake fluid completely before performing the
modulator function check, disposing the modulator unit, and ABS pump motor replacement.
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
1. Remove the bleeder cap from the maintenance bleeder on the modulator unit. 2. Attach the
wrench to the maintenance bleeder. 3. Connect a rubber tube of the appropriate diameter to the
maintenance bleeder, and set the other end of the rubber tube in a suitable container. 4. While
holding the rubber tube with your hand, slowly loosen the maintenance bleeder 1/8 to 1/4 turn to
collect the brake fluid in the container.
Page 2431
INSPECTION
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
Clutch Interlock Switch
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Page 1421
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1878
Body Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Reassembly
WARNING:
- When reusing the pads, install them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint: if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passage with compressed air.
- Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.
- Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
- Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
- Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
NOTE:
- Coat piston, piston seal, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
Coat the new cam boot with recommended grease and install it in the caliper body.
3. Apply recommended grease to the pin contacting area of the cam and install the cam and lever
assembly into the caliper body.
Page 1884
Inspection
1. Depress the brake pedal and check brake light operation. Make sure the brake lights go out
when the pedal is released. 2. If the brake lights stay on when the pedal is released check
adjustment and operation of switch. 3. If brake lites do not come on when the pedal is depressed,
check STOP/HORN fuse (15 A) in underhood fuse/relay box. IF fuse ok, check switch
NOTE:Defective brake light bulbs may cause brake lights to not illuminate but will not affect Brake
Switch Signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
4. If all tests indicate no problem but symptom still exists install PGM-FI ECM test harness to
harness only (not the PGM-FI ECM) and test for
battery voltage between terminals D2 and A26 with brake pedal depressed. If no voltage measured
repair GREEN/WHITE wire between the brake switch and the PGM-FI ECM as needed.
Page 4163
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3729
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4854
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4145
Image 22-10
Page 2101
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends
this information to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM contains memories for optimum EGR lift during various conditions. It reads
actual EGR position from the lift sensor. The sensor uses a plunger operated potentiometer
supplying a signal to the PGM-FI ECM. If the EGR actual position differs from it's preferred
position, the PGM-FI ECM cuts control solenoid power to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Page 5599
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 4244
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Radiator Fan Relay Test
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
The power steering speed sensor is a trochoid-rotor, hydraulic pump combined with a relief valve
and a one- way valve. It is driven by the speedometer gear shaft which in turn is driven by a helical
gear on the differential. The power steering speed sensor turns only when the car is moving,
controlling the gain control valve.
The constant pressure is generated by the pressure control valve. This pressure is used as a
reference pressure for the response to the car's speed. By introducing this pressure to the power
steering speed sensor through the sensor orifice, the pressure downstream of the orifice is
changed according to the speed of the car.
With the engine running at idle in a parked car, fluid flow through the sensor rotors is blocked
because the rotors are not turning. Therefore the gain control valve moves to the left. On the gain
control valve, the orifice resistance is high on pump side, while it is low on the reservoir side, with
the result that pressure in the reaction chamber is lowered and steering assist is high.
Page 4334
4. Torque the two rear seat track bolts to 34 N-m (3.5 kg-m, 25 lb.ft.).
5. Move the seat all the way back; then, with a small brush, apply a high-quality chassis grease to
both sides of the outboard seat track roller.
Page 4857
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Page 5302
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 1695
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5546
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3661
NOTE: Replace the bearing with a new one after removal.
27. Separate the hub from the knuckle using the special tools and a hydraulic press.
CAUTION: ^ Take care not to distort the splash guard. ^ Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling
when pressed clear.
29. Remove the circlip and the splash guard from the knuckle.
Page 3963
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 5401
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 753
Exhaust: 0.27 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.013 in)
4. Tighten the locknut and check clearance again. Repeat adjustment if not within spec.
5. Rotate crankshaft 180° counterclockwise (camshaft pulley will turn 90°). The "UP" mark should
be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No.3
cylinder.
6. Rotate crankshaft 180° counter clockwise to bring No.4 piston to TDC. Both TDC grooves are
once again visible. Adjust valves on No.4 cylinder.
7. Rotate crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No.2 piston to TDC. The "UP" mark should be
on the intake side. Adjust valves on No.2
cylinder.
8. Re-torque crankshaft pulley bolt to 250Nm (181 ft.lbs). Install cylinder head cover.
Locations
The Main Relay, located under the left side of the dashboard, supplies power to the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), injectors and supplies power to the fuel
pump for 2 seconds for starting purposes.
OPERATION
The first relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the
PGM-FI ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
^ The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and
also energized when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
Page 1716
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Interior - Cup Holder Does Not Stay Closed
Drink Holders: Customer Interest Interior - Cup Holder Does Not Stay Closed
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Reposition the hinge pin, and replace the latch pin with the new part listed under PARTS
INFORMATION.
1. Remove the cup holder from the console by pulling up on the inside of the cup holder with your
fingers.
NOTE: Hold the steering wheel in this position until adjustment is completed. If the steering wheel
is moved in error, repeat the adjustment procedure starting with step 10.
11. Turn the front sub steering angle sensor slowly clockwise, and check the range from where the
light starts to blink to where it stops. 12. Loosen the front sub steering angle sensor. Repeat the
step 11 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the range from
NOTE: ^ Turn the front sub steering angle sensor clockwise to make the 4WS indicator light blink. ^
If the sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off, disconnect
the connector, and straighten the wire.
13. Tighten the locknut while holding the front sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
Page 5609
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 76
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Under Hood Fuse / Relay Box
Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot Band/Installation
Constant Velocity Joint Boot: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot
Band/Installation
98-018
The replacement boot bands for the driveshaft CV joint boots have changed. The replacement
bands are a double loop type that require a special tool for proper installation.
* TOOL INFORMATION
This tool is already at your dealership. To order additional tools, call the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program at 1-888-424-6857. Phone lines are open Monday through Friday from 7:30
a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CT.*
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the old boot band(s). Take care not to damage the boot.
2. Remove and inspect the boot. Replace the boot if it is worn or damaged.
3. Install the boot, and fill it with the specified amount and type of grease. Refer to section 16 of the
appropriate service manual for the grease amount and type.
4. Adjust the driveshaft to the proper length. Refer to section 16 of the appropriate service manual.
5. Install the replacement boot band onto the large end of the boot with the end of the band facing
toward the front of the vehicle.
6. Take up the slack in the boot band by hand, and hold the boot band in place.
Page 519
Throttle Body With Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Adj. Screw Location.
Page 4732
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
99-04 Odyssey EX
1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*Transmitter Identification
Page 4122
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
1. Turn the Ignition off. 2. Disconnect the eight pin connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
3. Measure the resistance between the terminals indicated on the chart for the correct sensor.
Resistance should measure between 350 and 700 ohms.
4. If resistance checks correct, measure for continuity between body ground and each terminal of
the sensor being tested. If any continuity is
5. If all tests good but symptom or DTC indication persists see troubleshooting procedure for DTC's
4/8/9.
Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil Capacity
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
Specified viscosities:
Specified viscosities:
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Component Locations
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 15. 3. Adjust pedal height if necessary or replace
switch if defective.
Page 4413
Ordering a Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Page 5892
Wiper Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster,
then the steering column covers. 4. Disconnect 8-P connector, then remove wiper/washer switch
screws and switch. 5. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded theft
protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 504
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Locations
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve. The EGR Valve
is located at the right corner of the intake manifold near the ignition distributor.
Page 1426
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Circuit Schematics
Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Page 3308
7 days or later after the software activation date for the latest tester software. See REQUIRED
TOOLS for more information about the current software version and how to update your tools. You
can also check the software version active dates on the iN. Go to Service > Service Library >
Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ All Honda 12-volt batteries are lead-acid (flooded type). No other battery types are accepted. If
you try to submit a claim with a battery that was not tested as flooded, the claim will be returned to
your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2084. See step 6 of USING THE ED-18 BATTERY
TESTER or step 9 of USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST
FUNCTION for how to test the battery.*
ED-18 and GR8 battery test codes are used for product research and warranty validation. Some of
the information gathered is:
- Tool type
- Software version
- Test date
- Test results:
^ Battery voltage
^ CCA results
^ Battery condition
^ Battery temperature
- Tech-entered information:
^ Battery CCA
^ Battery type
The dealer is responsible for testing and charging batteries when the vehicle first arrives at the
dealership and while in dealer inventory. Testing and charging to maintain the battery in a new and
unsold vehicle cannot be claimed under warranty. If you let a good battery sit discharged, and it is
damaged from poor maintenance, this is not a defect, and the replacement is not covered by
warranty.
If your dealership receives a new vehicle (less than 2 weeks since delivery) with a defective battery
(your ED-18 or GR8 states Replace Battery or Bad Cell, plus the 10-digit code), you can file a
warranty claim. You must show the printout from the ED18 or GR8 and the vehicle delivery
document (bill of lading) to your DPSM and request their approval of claim error 3050, No Warranty
- In Stock Battery.
You are required to test the battery during the PDI and at final delivery. Record the 10-digit test
code created by the ED-i8 or GR8 in the applicable places of the Service History booklet, and place
a printout of the tester results in the vehicle file. See RECORD KEEPING in Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers, for more information.
Warranty claim error code 3055 was created for battery replacement claims within 90 days of
delivery to the customer. It can be cleared only by a DPSM. For your DPSM to override warranty
claim error code 3055, you need to provide this documentation:
^ The initial PDI battery test printout that matches the PDI date or the new arrival battery test
printout and the vehicle delivery document (bill of lading), lists the correct CCA rating, and shows
the battery condition as Good Battery.
^ The Final Inspection that matches the date of the vehicle delivery, lists the correct CCA rating,
and shows the battery condition as Good Battery.
Page 331
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 2948
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Page 5229
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 3742
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge is divided into 7 separate segments. The number of
segments that light up depends on the input from the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending
unit. The sending unit's resistance varies from about 142 ohms at low engine temperature to
between 49 and 32 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).
Page 3691
Control Valve Body Unit: Description and Operation Full-Lock Unloader System
The 4-way valve shifts the direction of fluid flow when the steering wheel is turned right or left.
However, when the wheel is turned to the right or left lock at parking speed, the edge of the pinion
holder rides up on the end of the rack, moving the pin in the opposite direction which pulls the
4-way valve back to neutral.
This keeps pump pressure from building up (which could cause idle speed to drop), and improves
steering feel by increasing resistance at left and right lock.
Page 4959
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume Switch Test/Replacement
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the positive cable. 3. Ensure wheels are in straight ahead
position, then remove lower instrument panel cover.
4. Disconnect cable reel harness 6-P connector from air bag harness, then connect test harness C
only to cable reel harness, Fig. 37.
5. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 38.
Page 4311
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1. 5. Remove glove compartment.
ABS Pressure Switch
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation ABS Pressure Switch
The pressure switch monitors the pressure accumulation in the accumulator and is turned off when
the pressure becomes lower than a prescribed level. When the pressure switch is turned off, the
switching signal is sent to the control unit. Upon receiving the signal, the control unit activates the
pump motor relay to operate the motor.
Page 4518
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 909
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 4405
On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500)
552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
NOTE:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the
switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times
total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will
exit the programming mode.)
4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode.
5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the
driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code.
6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter.
7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 5838
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 5226
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
The Main Relay, located under the left side of the dashboard, supplies power to the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), injectors and supplies power to the fuel
pump for 2 seconds for starting purposes.
OPERATION
The first relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the
PGM-FI ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
^ The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and
also energized when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
Service Precautions
Fuel Gauge: Service Precautions
WARNING:
Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the work area.
Page 1440
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
PURPOSE
The Fuel Pressure Regulator, mounted on the fuel injector rail and affected by intake manifold
pressure (manifold vacuum), maintains constant fuel pressure to the fuel injectors.
OPERATION
The Fuel Pressure Regulator reacts to intake manifold pressure (manifold vacuum). When the
difference between fuel pressure and manifold pressure (manifold vacuum) exceeds 300 kPa (43
psi), the regulator valve opens and the excess fuel is fed through the fuel return line back into the
fuel tank.
Page 4220
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Page 1437
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Electrical Diagrams
97-036
Applies To: 1994 Prelude - S from VIN JHMBAS...RC000001 thru RC099999 (except Si, VTEC)
1995 Prelude - S from VIN JHMBA8 ... SC000182 thru SC001963 - Si, SE from VIN JHMBB2 ...
50000356 thru SC004959 - VTEC from VIN JHMBB1 ... SC000109 thru 50001129
BACKGROUND Driving conditions in certain parts of the U.S. may cause the A/C condenser to
corrode, allowing the R-134a refrigerant to leak out. Those conditions are: -
Areas where corrosive road salt is used for snow and ice removal
- Areas where ocean air is combined with high heat and humidity
Condenser corrosion is not likely in areas outside those shown in the Product Update Campaign
service bulletin. In the interests of customer satisfaction, American Honda is extending the warranty
to owners in the non Product Update areas to 5 years with no mileage limit. Refer to the map.
GENERAL INFORMATION Owners living in the shaded area of the map will be notified that the
warranty on the A/C condenser has been extended. They will be advised to contact the dealer for
repair only if the A/C system fails. An example of the customer letter is at the end of this service
bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION If a customer brings in a Prelude in the affected VIN range with an A/C
system failure, diagnose the problem. If the condenser is leaking, replace it and file a warranty
claim using the information given.
Power Distribution
Page 3578
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Page 616
Wiper Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster,
then the steering column covers. 4. Disconnect 8-P connector, then remove wiper/washer switch
screws and switch. 5. Reverse procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded theft
protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
09-060
(Supersedes 09-060, dated January 19, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
INTRODUCTION
The software for the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. You can now use the Midtronics GR8 update wizard to download
software and firmware to your GR8 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the
latest GR8 software to ensure that the current battery testing and diagnostic procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that GR8 testers are updated promptly. The GR8
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ USB-to-mini-USB cable (this cable came with the GR8): Midtronics P/N A128
^ Internet access
To order the GR8 Diagnostic Station, or the USB-to-mini-USB cable, go to the Honda Tool and
Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online
Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).
The update should take 5-10 minutes. Make sure that the update is not interrupted. If the update is
interrupted, it could damage the GR8 and require you to send the GR8 to Midtronics for repair. This
repair is not covered by warranty.
3. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
Username: hondagr8
Page 914
21. Insert the cable through the arm and connect the cable to the lever with the clevis pin and lock
pin. Install the cable clip securely. 22. Fill the brake reservoir up and bleed the brake system. 23.
Operate the brake pedal several times, then adjust the parking brake. 24. After installation, perform
the following checks.
- Check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary.
- Check the parking brake lever for operation and adjust if necessary.
Page 1877
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
PURPOSE
The Air Cleaner, mounted on the right fender, traps dirt and other contaminants before they have a
chance to enter the engine.
OPERATION
Air is drawn through the air intake tube, filtered by the Air Cleaner, then passes through the air flow
tube into the air intake chamber and finally into the throttle body. There is also a resonator chamber
connected to the air intake tube which helps reduce airflow noise as air is drawn into the system.
Page 3189
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Leak Test
1. With engine running, depress brake pedal and hold, then stop engine. If pedal height does not
vary with brake pedal depressed for 30 seconds,
2. Depress brake pedal several times with normal pressure. When pedal is first depressed, it
should be low. As pedal is depressed, pedal height
should gradually rise. If pedal height does not vary, check booster check valve.
Page 492
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 4044
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2831
42. Install the sensor wire with the two bolts.
43. Install the brake disc with the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws.
44. Install the brake caliper with the caliper mounting bolts. 45. Install the brake hose with the brake
hose mounting 46. Tighten the new spindle nut,
NOTE: Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and inside of the
wheel.
47. Install the wheel with the wheel nuts. 48. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if
necessary.
Locations
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Locations
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4349
3. Remove banjo bolt and disconnect brake hose from caliper, Fig. 11. 4. Remove caliper bolts,
then the caliper.
Installation
1. Install caliper and caliper bolts. 2. Connect brake hose to caliper, then install banjo bolt. 2. Bleed
front brakes, then install wheel and tire assemblies.
Disassembly
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
Page 104
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5481
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4165
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 389
Headlight Switch (Part 3 Of 4)
Page 4772
5. Remove the rain protector grommet. Peel the rain protector back to the bracket.
6. Remove the rod protector and the access hole
7. Put protective tape around the outside door handle. Remove the two mounting bolts and the clip
screw, then pull the handle out of the door.
Page 892
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Do not set the cutting depth on the brake lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). This is two
divisions on the cutting knob. Make sure you start your cut at least 3 mm (0.12 in.) beyond the worn
area on the brake disc.
If you are cutting larger diameter brake discs, make sure you use the 150 cutting bit holders. These
bit holders, available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING
INFORMATION), supersede the original bit holders and provide better cutting coverage for larger
diameter brake discs. Each bit holder is clearly marked for proper installation on the tool holder.
To get the smoothest cut and the best brake disc finish, always use the slowest feed speed on the
tool bed feed motor. Place the drive belt on the smallest pulley of the feed motor and on the largest
pulley of the hand wheel.
Make sure the lower toggle switch on the power drive system drive motor assembly is set to the
proper rotation to turn the brake disc toward the top of the cutting bits. Plug the tool bed feed motor
into the power outlet on the drive motor assembly, then turn on the drive motor with the upper
toggle switch on the assembly.
If you are not using the power drive system, make sure the transmission is in 1st gear (2nd gear on
Preludes with ATTS) or Reverse and the engine is idling, but not at a fast idle. If the transmission
and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits.
Turn on the tool bed feed motor, and snap it into place; there should be tension on the feed belt.
Cut the brake disc until the cutting bits clear the outer edge of the disc. The cutting bits should
produce a smooth, consistent finish with no chatter marks or grooves.
If the disc did not clean up entirely on the first pass, reset the brake lathe and make a second pass.
Page 4743
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Alpine of America by authorized Honda Dealers only.
Send a completed order form (found in Parts Information Bulletin A91 -0031) along with a dealer
check for $59.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this address:
Procedure 2
NOTE:
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
Page 41
Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection
Radiator Fan Relay Test
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 7.
Page 2642
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 3662
30. Press the wheel bearing out of the knuckle using a hydraulic press and the special tools shown
below.
31. Remove the outboard bearing inner race from the hub using the special tools shown and a
commercially available bearing separator.
NOTE: Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash-point solvent before reassembly.
32. Press a new wheel bearing into the hub using the special tools shown and a hydraulic press.
Page 2147
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 430
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal D12 (+) and terminal D22 (-).
^ With no vacuum applied to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, voltage should read
approx. 1.2 volts.
^ With 8 in. hg. of vacuum applied to the EGR Valve, voltage should read approx. 4.3 volts.
3. If voltage is not read or voltage reading does not change when vacuum is applied to the EGR
Valve, replace the EGR Valve and Lift Sensor
assembly.
Service and Repair
Disassemble one or all parts of rocker arm assembly as necessary, Fig. 29. Prior to removal,
identify all parts so they can be installed in their original locations.
When removing or installing rocker arm assembly, do not remove camshaft holder bolts. The bolts
will keep the holders, springs and rocker arms on the shaft. When reassembling, fit the projection
on the intake rocker shaft to the notch in the camshaft holder.
Page 5143
Headlamp Reminder Indicator: Electrical Diagrams
Lights-ON Reminder
Specifications
Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed): Specifications
TORQUE VALUE
TEMPERATURE / OPERATION
BACKGROUND
Due to production differences, the dimensional layout of the power door lock system has some
variance that may cause the system not to function as designed. To ensure proper operation and
the intended level of security, the passenger's door key cylinder lock rod needs to be replaced.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994:
Si - From VIN JHMBB2...RC007498 thru VIN RC009047 VTEC - From VIN JHMBB1...R0001521
thru VIN RC002041
1995:
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be contacted by mail. The owner will be asked to take the car to a
dealership for updating. Instructions on how to remove the fuse from the power door lock system
will also be given, providing greater security until the owner is able to take the car to the dealership.
The text of the customer letter is at the end of this service bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the key cylinder lock rod in the passenger's door with the new rod listed under PARTS
INFORMATION.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Page 5060
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 7.
Page 4847
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 4719
Page 3930
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
Tires: Service and Repair Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 1169
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5105
Fuel Gauge: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 13 and the fuel
and engine coolant temperature gauges. The gauge circuit is grounded at G402.
The fuel gauge is divided into 20 separate segments. The number of segments that light up
depends on the input from the fuel gauge sending unit.
The sending unit's resistance varies according to the volume of the fuel in the tank: 239-314 ohms
at full, 116-188 ohms with a half tank, and 16-32 ohms at empty.
Locations
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Page 3422
Above Left Kick Panel
Photo 87
Photo 101
Photo 109
Key Interlock Solenoid
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
M/T - 5th Gear Grinds On Upshift
Shift Fork: All Technical Service Bulletins M/T - 5th Gear Grinds On Upshift
01-070
August 7, 2001
Applies To: 1994-00 Accord - ALL with M/T 1992-01 Prelude - ALL with M/T
Fifth Gear Grinds During Upshift (Replaces 95-057, dated October 17, 2000)
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace 5th gear, the sleeve set, and the 5th shift fork.
PARTS INFORMATION
1994-97 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-PX5-307, H/C 4921607 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1998-00 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P0S-306, H/C 5614011 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1992-96 Prelude S
* Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465* 5th Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959
5th Gear: P/N 23581-P16-540, H/C 3940061 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959*
Page 3897
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove rear wheels. 2. Apply parking brake, then remove hub
cap. 3. Raise locking tab on spindle nut, then remove nut. 4. Remove brake hose mounting bolts,
then the caliper bracket mounting bolts. 5. Remove caliper and hang from undercarriage with short
piece of wire. Do not hang caliper by brake hose. 6. Screw two 12 mm bolts into disc to push disc
off of hub. Remove disc. 7. Remove hub unit from knuckle. 8. Reverse procedure to install.
Page 1661
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, which is mounted center of the firewall, sends a
signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM). the PGM-FI
ECM uses this signal to sense engine load. Ignition timing and fuel delivery can then be adjusted to
maintain optimum engine performance.
OPERATION
The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal and a ground to the sensor. A vacuum line supplies intake
manifold vacuum to a small cavity under the silicon diaphragm which causes the diaphragm to flex.
The flexing of the silicon generates a small voltage which is amplified by the support circuitry and
used to modify the fixed 5 volt signal supplied by the PGM-FI ECM. The modified signal is then
returned to PGM-FI ECM.
Page 3216
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 5081
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3397
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
BACKGROUND
Due to production differences, the dimensional layout of the power door lock system has some
variance that may cause the system not to function as designed. To ensure proper operation and
the intended level of security, the passenger's door key cylinder lock rod needs to be replaced.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994:
Si - From VIN JHMBB2...RC007498 thru VIN RC009047 VTEC - From VIN JHMBB1...R0001521
thru VIN RC002041
1995:
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be contacted by mail. The owner will be asked to take the car to a
dealership for updating. Instructions on how to remove the fuse from the power door lock system
will also be given, providing greater security until the owner is able to take the car to the dealership.
The text of the customer letter is at the end of this service bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the key cylinder lock rod in the passenger's door with the new rod listed under PARTS
INFORMATION.
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
................................................ 25 k ohms max,
Ignition Wire
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................................... 25 k ohms max.
Page 5359
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 2489
Distributor Cap Inspection
1. Check for rough or pitted rotor and cap terminals. 2. Scrape or file off the carbon deposits.
Smooth the rotor terminal with an oil stone or #600 sandpaper if rough. 3. Check the distributor cap
for cracks, wear and damages. If necessary, clean or replace it.
REASSEMBLY
Rotor Positioning
1. Install the rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (toward the No. 1 cylinder).
1. Turn the Ignition off. 2. Disconnect the eight pin connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
3. Measure the resistance between the terminals indicated on the chart for the correct sensor.
Resistance should measure between 350 and 700 ohms.
4. If resistance checks correct, measure for continuity between body ground and each terminal of
the sensor being tested. If any continuity is
5. If all tests good but symptom or DTC indication persists see troubleshooting procedure for DTC's
4/8/9.
Page 4367
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 1143
1. Connect a tachometer.
2. Remove the engine oil pressure switch and install an oil pressure gauge. 3. Start the engine.
Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the problem before continuing.
4. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (radiator fan comes on at least twice). 5. The
pressure, with engine oil at approx. 80°C (176°F) should be:
At idle:
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 371
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3015
Power Unit: Description and Operation Power Unit
The power unit consists of a motor and a plunger pump. Since an eccentric bearing is positioned
on the end of the motor shaft, the rotation of the motor provides the reciprocating motion of the
plunger. The brake fluid is thus pressurized and fed to the accumulator.
Page 2140
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS). Turn ignition switch on.
2. Measure voltage between YELLOW/WHITE (+) terminal and GREEN/WHITE (-) terminal.
Voltage should read approx 5.0 volts. If not, measure
^ If 5.0 volts is not measured, Turn ignition switch off, install test harness between PGM-FI ECM
and harness connector, turn ignition on. measure voltage between terminal D20 (+) and D22 (-), if
5.0 volts is measured, inspect for open in YELLOW/WHITE wire between D20 and TPS connector.
If 5.0 volts is not measured, substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
3. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin connector at the TPS. Install the test harness
between the PGM-FI ECM and the harness
4. Measure voltage between terminal D11 (+) and terminal D22 (-). Voltage should read approx.
0.5 volts at closed throttle position and approx. 4.5
volts at full throttle position with a smooth transition in between. If not, replace TPS with known
good part and retest.
Page 3663
33. Install the circlip securely in the knuckle groove. 34. Install the splash guard and tighten the
screws.
35. Install the hub on the knuckle using the special tools shown and a hydraulic press.
Installation
CAUTION:
Page 4483
Manually Removing a Jammed Magazine (Passport only)
^ If all the trays are in the magazine, place the changer in a horizontal position, and insert a thin
stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from the right side of the
opening.
3. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
2. Remove the top cover plate from the changer, and inspect for a jammed tray.
^ If all the trays are in the magazine, place the changer in a horizontal position, and insert a thin
stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from the right side of the
opening.
3. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 5292
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 3590
Toe-in is the turning of the front wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a
degree. Toe-in is measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The
purpose of toe-in is to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections
of the wheel support system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in
results in excessive toe-in and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front
end alignment procedure.
Page 2672
1. Remove the mounting bolts and shift control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the shift control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the shift control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an assembly, if
necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the shift control solenoid valve
assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it
securely.
Page 1717
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 971
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Power Distribution
Locations
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 1742
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is mounted inside the distributor housing and is not serviced
separately.
Functional Test
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Functional Test
1. With engine stopped, depress brake pedal several times, then depress pedal hard and hold for
15 seconds. If pedal sinks, master cylinder, brake
2. With brake pedal depressed, start engine. If pedal sinks slightly, vacuum booster is operating. If
pedal height does not vary, booster or check valve
is faulty.
Page 5260
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220
Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
98-011
This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering,
and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below.
Page 3388
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 1250
T/N 07MAB-PY3010A
DOHC Prelude:
ALL:
NOTE:
This campaign ends January 1, 2003. After that date, warranty claims for installation of a retainer,
or repairs required due to a failed oil seal, will not be accepted.
Disclaimer
*A. If the technician found that an oil seal retainer had already been installed, file a warranty claim
with operation number 111008.
B. If the technician installed an oil seal retainer, file a warranty claim with operation number
111108.
C. If the technician replaced the oil seal because it was cocked or backed out, file a warranty claim
with operation number 111124. This includes replacing the timing belt and balancer belt if they are
contaminated with oil. This repair requires DSM approval.
Flat Rate Time
Accord - 2.5 hours Odyssey - 2.5 hours 1994-96 Prelude - 2.5 hours 1997 Prelude - 2.7 hours
D. If the technician replaced the engine because there was significant internal engine damage due
to extended driving after a complete loss of oil, file a warranty claim with operation number 111008
as the primary operation and 111099 as the secondary operation. Show actual repair time as the
FRT with 111099, and list all parts used. This repair requires DSM approval.
NOTE:
If a vehicle with engine damage has high mileage, the DSM may authorize the installation of a
reconditioned engine from an outside supplier rather than a new engine from Honda. In that case,
refer to section 6.4.1, Reimbursement for Non-Honda Parts, in the Service Operations Manual for
claim submission and credit guidelines.*
Repair Procedure
1. Make sure you have the audio system anti-theft code, if needed. Write down your customer's
radio station presets.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 3372
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1088
23. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm. 24. Remove the crankshaft
pulley. 25. Install the timing belt lower cover. 26. Install a new seal around the adjusting nut. Do not
loosen the nut. 27. Install the timing belt upper cover. 28. Install the crankshaft pulley. 29. Coat the
threads and seating face of the pulley bolt with engine oil. Install and tighten to the specified torque.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 3398
Fuse: Electrical Diagrams
Power Distribution
Page 3635
NOTE: Take care not to turn the front sub steering angle sensor.
14. Disconnect the front sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the front sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
15. Check that each sensor is electronically in neutral (see page 17-146).
NOTE: Be sure that the center of the range where the 4WS indicator light blinks (indicating that the
front sub steering angle sensor is electronically in neutral), is in the range ±18 mm (±O.7 in; ±5.5°)
from the center mark on the steering wheel.
16. Reconnect the connector and secure the sub steering angle sensor wire harness with the
clamp and install the cover.
NOTE: ^ Be sure the sensor wire harness does not interfere with the stabilizer or other moving
parts. ^ Be certain that the wire is not twisted before connecting it.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car.
2. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensor are in electrically neutral position,
when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed before
checking the electrically neutral position.
Page 4561
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Specifications
Ignition Coil: Specifications
IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE:
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Adjustments
1. Check actuator cable for smooth operation. Cable should not bind or stick in proper operating
condition. 2. Start engine and measure actuator rod movement until cable pulls on actuator lever
when engine speed starts to increase. Refer to Fig. 6 for
3. If locknut freeplay is not within specifications, loosen locknut and turn adjusting nut as required,
Fig. 6. 4. Tighten locknut and recheck freeplay measurement. 5. Test drive car to ensure proper
operation of speed control system.
Page 1989
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WARNING: Do not smoke during this repair. Keep open flames away from your work area. Be sure
to relieve fuel pressure while engine is off. Place a rag or shop towel over the fuel hoses before
disconnecting them.
DISASSEMBLY
^ Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the top of the fuel filter, while holding the
special banjo bolt with another wrench.
^ Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY loosen the 6mm service bolt
one complete turn.
2. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the injectors. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose and fuel
return hose from the pressure regulator. 4. Disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pipe. 5. If needed
remove the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve from the intake manifold. 6. Loosen the retainer nuts on the
fuel rail and harness holder. 7. Disconnect the fuel rail and Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
valve.
ASSEMBLY
Page 167
IG SW: Ignition Switch ACC: Accessory (1 position) The normal voltage is the value when the
system is working properly.
Page 4370
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 7.
Page 2490
3. Check that the rotor is still pointing toward the No. 1 cylinder, then align the index mark on the
housing with the index mark on the coupling. 4. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral
7. After adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 1037
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove rear wheels. 2. Apply parking brake, then remove hub
cap. 3. Raise locking tab on spindle nut, then remove nut. 4. Remove brake hose mounting bolts,
then the caliper bracket mounting bolts. 5. Remove caliper and hang from undercarriage with short
piece of wire. Do not hang caliper by brake hose. 6. Screw two 12 mm bolts into disc to push disc
off of hub. Remove disc. 7. Remove hub unit from knuckle. 8. Reverse procedure to install.
Page 4356
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Locations
Toe-in is the turning of the front wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a
degree. Toe-in is measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The
purpose of toe-in is to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections
of the wheel support system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in
results in excessive toe-in and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front
end alignment procedure.
Page 5515
Brake Lights- With Optional Trunk Spoiler
Page 1316
14. Lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place by installing one of a 6 x 1.0 mm lower cover
mounting bolts. 15. Loosen the timing belt adjusting nut. Push on the pulley to remove tension from
the timing balancer belt, then tighten the adjusting nut.
NOTE: If you are removing only the timing balancer belt, go to step 22. If you are removing both
belts, continue with this procedure.
17. Loosen the 6 x 1.0 mm lock bolt and the adjusting nut. Push on the timing belt adjuster pulley to
remove tension from the belt, then tighten the
adjusting nut.
18. Remove the timing belt. 19. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal. Adjust the
valve clearance.
Page 1031
19. Remove the cotter pin and lower arm ball joint nut. 20. Install a 14 mm hex nut on the ball joint.
Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint
pin
21. Use the bail joint remover to separate the ball joint and lower arm.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
22. Remove the knuckle protector. 23. Remove the cotter pin and the upper ball joint nut. 24. Install
a 10 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the
threaded section of the ball joint pin
25. Use the ball joint remover to separate the ball joint and knuckle.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
26. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle using a
plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
1. Remove the mounting bolts and shift control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the shift control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the shift control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an assembly, if
necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the shift control solenoid valve
assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it
securely.
Page 978
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Photo 12
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Locations
NOTE: -
- Take care not to bend the cable when removing the actuator. Always replace a kinked cable with
a new one.
Page 1727
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends
this information to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM contains memories for optimum EGR lift during various conditions. It reads
actual EGR position from the lift sensor. The sensor uses a plunger operated potentiometer
supplying a signal to the PGM-FI ECM. If the EGR actual position differs from it's preferred
position, the PGM-FI ECM cuts control solenoid power to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 936
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 3401
Power Distribution
Page 4841
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 867
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5345
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1338
Idle Speed: Adjustments
CANADIAN VEHICLES: Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the
headlights are off.
1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the cooling fan comes on).
Turn ignition off. 2. Connect a tachometer.
3. Disconnect the two pin connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. 4. Start engine and
check idle speed in no-load condition (the headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, cooling fan, and
air conditioner are not
operating).
5. Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw. 6. Turn the ignition switch
OFF.
Page 2825
11. Clean any dirt or grease off the ball joint. 12. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas
shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads.
13. Remove the cotter pin from the steering arm and remove the nut. 14. Install a 12 mm hex nut
on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the
threaded end of the
ball joint.
Insert the jaws carefully, making sure you do not damage the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing
by turning the pressure bolt.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
16. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then
hand- tighten the pressure bolt and recheck the jaws
17. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering
arm.
Warning: Wear eye protection. The ball joint can break loose suddenly and scatter dirt or other
debris in your eyes.
18. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of
the steering/suspension arm.
NOTE:
Keep a printout of every battery test. Your warranty claim may be rejected unless you show that the
battery was properly maintained.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ Check the condition of the battery and its state-of-charge when a vehicle comes in for scheduled
maintenance.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ When the ED-18 or GR8 displays Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, it provides a 10-digit
code that must be included with the warranty
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 4149
Image 22-14
Radiator and Condenser Fans Do Not Run At All
Page 3097
Disassembly
- WARNING: Never use an air hose or dry brush to clean brake assemblies.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.
2. Remove the lock pin and clevis pin. Remove the cable clip and disconnect the cable from the
parking brake arm.
3. Remove the banjo bolt and two sealing washers. 4. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and
caliper body from the bracket. 5. Remove the pad spring from the caliper body.
Specifications
Distributor: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, located at the right side of the intake manifold near
the throttle body, allows a measured amount of exhaust gas to be recycled into the intake flow.
OPERATION
The EGR valve has a diaphragm with a pintle rod attached to one end of it and a spring pushing on
the other end of it (keeping the valve closed). When vacuum is applied to the diaphragm, it
overcomes the spring pressure, pulling the pintle rod out of it's seat. This opens the passage,
allowing gas recirculation. The amount of recirculation is directly relative to applied vacuum.
Page 2274
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve, located top of valve cover, meters air flow in the
system at a rate that varies with manifold vacuum. The PCV valve restricts the flow of crankcase
emissions when vacuum is high to preserve idle stability.
OPERATION
The PCV valve contains a spring loaded plunger. When the engine starts, the plunger in the PCV
Valve is lifted in proportion to intake manifold vacuum and the blow-by gas is drawn directly into the
intake manifold.
Page 3723
When the car is moving in reverse, the power steering speed sensor also turns backward and
pumps fluid in the opposite direction. To avoid building up pressure in the reaction chambers that
would increase steering effort while driving in reverse, the inlet and outlet-ports are connected by a
second internal passage containing a relief valve that allows the fluid to recirculate.
Page 3220
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 127
PURPOSE
These vehicles are equipped with a PROGRAMMED FUEL INJECTION ELECTRONIC CONTROL
MODULE (PGM-FI ECM). The PGM-FI ECM, located at Passenger side footwell under the carpet,
controls all phases of engine operation. In order to accomplish this control, the PGM-FI ECM relies
on the input from a variety of engine operation sensors.
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM compares input signals with those stored in memory to determine what steps
should be taken to achieve maximum performance, fuel economy, and meet emission standards.
The PGM-FI ECM outputs the necessary signals to the fuel system, ignition system, air control
system, and the emission control systems. The PGM-FI ECM also records any malfunctions in the
monitored systems. When a malfunction is detected, the PGM-FI ECM will insert a
pre-programmed value to substitute for the defective signal, flash the Check Engine light, and store
the malfunction in erasable memory as a numeric code. Additionally, should the PGM-FI ECM itself
fail, their is a back-up circuit which will control the fuel system to allow the vehicle to continue
functioning (Back-up Mode).
Page 3787
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Piston Removal
16. Use the wooden handle of a hammer to drive the pistons out. 17. Reinstall the rod bearings and
caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly. 18. Mark each piston/connecting rod
assembly with its cylinder number to avoid mix-up on reassembly.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the engine, it
indicates the rod bore size.
Page 5669
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 1235
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 4568
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information
Seat Cover: Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information
Use a Steamer to Smooth Out Fabric Upholstery
A garment steamer and a stiff-bristle brush make a great team for removing those nasty wrinkles,
lines, or impressions in fabric upholstery. You can buy an inexpensive, small, hand-held garment/
fabric steamer from a number of different manufacturers. Some of these units even come with a
handy built-in brush.
Once you've got your steamer, follow the manufacturer's instructions to get it ready for use. Then
apply a generous amount of steam to the problem area. Keep the steamer moving slowly over the
area until it's hot and moist.
A Word of Caution: Go easy on the steam if you're cleaning the front passenger seat in a vehicle
with side airbags. Moisture can adversely affect or damage the OPDS sensors in the seatback.
While the area is hot and moist, use a stiff-bristle brush, or the built-in brush if your steamer has
one, to work the fabric back and forth and up and down. Stubborn areas might need more steam
and brushing, so be patient and stay with it. It's worth the effort.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 1557
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 1916
DESCRIPTION
The Service Check Connector is used to trigger the self diagnostic capabilities of the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
By connecting the Service Check Connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown, the PGM-FI
ECM will begin to indicate any stored Data Trouble Codes.
CAUTION: DO NOT connect the jumper wire to the three pin Data Link Connector which is next to
the Service Check Connector.
Page 2581
1. Remove the 6 mm bolt from the transmission housing and remove the mainshaft and
countershaft speed sensors. 2. Replace the 0-ring with a new one before reassembling the
mainshaft and countershaft speed sensors.
Page 4114
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 1230
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 5405
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 386
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
2. Set No.1 piston to TDC. "UP" mark on the camshaft pulley should be at top and TDC grooves on
the camshaft pulley should align with the
3. Adjust valves on No.1 cylinder. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw until the feeler
gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of
drag.
SPECS:
^ If you are reinstalling the original boot, mark the band 10 mm (0.4 in.) from the clip.
8. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the boot band tool and into the slot
on the winding mandrel.
9. Take up the slack in the boot band by hand, then slowly turn the winding mandrel with a wrench.
Tighten the band until the mark you made in step 7 meets the edge of the clip.
10. Raise up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees, then center-punch
the clip to hold the band temporarily.
Page 218
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Circuit Schematics
Page 5461
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 435
Electric Load Sensor: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition and electrical consumers off. 2. Remove under hood fuse/relay box and remove
lower cover. 3. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Electrical Load Detector (ELD). Turn
ignition switch on.
4. Measure voltage between BLACK/YELLOW (+) terminal and BLACK (-) terminal. Voltage should
read battery voltage. (If not repair open in
5. Measure voltage between GREEN/BLACK terminal and BLACK (-) terminal. voltage should read
approx. 5.0 volts. (If not, inspect
GREEN/BLACK wire at the three pin connector and PGM-GI ECM terminal D10. IF wire OK,
substitute known good Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM)).
6. Turn ignition off. Reconnect three pin connector. Install Test Harness between PGM-FI ECM and
connectors. 7. Start engine and run at Idle.
Locations
Cover Installation
8. Apply liquid gasket to the block mating surface of the right side cover. Apply a light coat of oil to
the crankshaft and to the lip of the seal, then
install the cover on the engine block. Torque the 6 x 1.0 mm bolts to 12 Nm (1.2 kg-m, 9 lb ft).
NOTE: -
- Check that the mating surfaces are clean and dry before applying liquid gasket.
- Apply liquid gasket evenly, being careful to cover all the mating surface.
- To prevent leakage of oil, apply liquid gasket to the inner threads of the bolt holes.
- Do not install the parts if 20 minutes or more have elapsed since applying the liquid gasket.
Instead reapply liquid gasket after removing the the old residue.
- After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
Page 937
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Description and Operation
Brake Master Cylinder: Description and Operation
A tandem master cylinder is used in order to improve safety of the braking system. In addition, a
center valve method is introduced to match the anti-lock brake operation.
Page 1448
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Testing and Inspection
1. Disconnect electrical connector to fan motor. 2. Connect battery voltage across motor terminals
using suitable jumper wires. 3. If fan fails to operate, motor is defective.
Page 4871
U.S.-Produced (East Liberty) Civics, paint code ends in -3 or -5 (East Liberty uses waterborne
paints)
Page 5052
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 1395
Concentration Minimum 50 %
Maximum 60 %
Page 3483
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Adjustments
Throttle Valve Cable/Linkage: Adjustments
NOTE: Before adjusting the throttle control cable, make sure that:
Throttle cable free play is correct. Idle speed is correct. You warm up the engine to normal
operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
1. Verify that the throttle control cable is clamped correctly in three positions.
2. Verify that the throttle linkage is in the fully-closed position 3. Loosen the locknut on the throttle
control cable at the throttle control lever.
Page 318
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4353
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Locations
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 2521
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is mounted inside the distributor housing and is not serviced
separately.
Page 1976
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
1. Turn the Ignition off. 2. Disconnect the eight pin connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
3. Measure the resistance between the terminals indicated on the chart for the correct sensor.
Resistance should measure between 350 and 700 ohms.
4. If resistance checks correct, measure for continuity between body ground and each terminal of
the sensor being tested. If any continuity is
5. If all tests good but symptom or DTC indication persists see troubleshooting procedure for DTC's
4/8/9.
Page 2161
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3574
Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set:
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Page 4517
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 3131
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Locations
The Test Tachometer Connector is Located in front of the right strut tower.
Page 3387
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
1. Visually inspect exterior of converter. If severe damage is noted, such as dented, crushed or
rusted out shell, replace converter. 2. Whenever converter is removed from vehicle, Shine a light
through the outlet, observe through the converter to determine if the converter is
3. Gently shake the catalytic converter and listen for signs of loose components. 4. If element is
clogged, melted or otherwise damaged, replace converter.
1. Run the engine at 2,500 rpm for approximately 2 minutes to heat catalytic converter to operating
temperature. 2. Connect a surface temperature probe on exhaust inlet of catalytic converter and
measure temperature. 3. Connect surface temperature probe on exhaust outlet of catalytic
converter and measure temperature. 4. There should be at least 100°F (38° C) increase in
temperature from the inlet to the outlet. 5. If temperature differential is less than specified, catalytic
converter should be replaced.
1. Install exhaust backpressure tester in place of Oxygen sensor (or CO test pipe). 2. With engine
idling at normal operating temperature, the gauge reading should not exceed 8.6 kPa (1.25 psi). 3.
Increase engine speed to 2000 rpm. Gauge reading should not exceed 20.7 kPa (3 psi). 4. If
backpressure at either speed exceeds specification, a restricted exhaust system is indicated. 5.
Inspect exhaust system for a collapsed pipe, heat distress or possible internal muffler failure. 6. If
no obvious reasons for excessive exhaust system backpressure are found, suspect a restricted
catalytic converter. 7. After completing test, coat threads of oxygen sensor (if removed) with
anti-seize compound prior to reinstallation.
Page 2149
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 3972
NOTE: Replace the bearing with a new one after removal.
27. Separate the hub from the knuckle using the special tools and a hydraulic press.
CAUTION: ^ Take care not to distort the splash guard. ^ Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling
when pressed clear.
29. Remove the circlip and the splash guard from the knuckle.
Locations
Parking Brake With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 13
to the brake system indicator light. When you apply the parking brake, the switch closes and
provides a ground for the light. The light comes ON to remind the driver that the parking brake is
applied.
Brake Fluid Level With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse
13 to the brake system indicator light. If the brake fluid level is low, the brake fluid level switch
closes, providing ground to the circuit. The brake system indicator light comes ON, alerting the
driver to a low brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder. (Check brake pad wear before adding
fluid.)
Bulb Check With the ignition switch in START (III), and the clutch pedal depressed or A/T gear
selector in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N), voltage is applied through fuse 2 to the bulb check circuit.
The bulb check circuit closes, allowing current to flow through the brake system indicator light and
bulb check circuit to ground. The brake system indicator light comes ON to test the bulb.
Page 997
1. Once spotty wear develops in tread due to hard braking or abrupt starting, localized wear tends
to be promoted.
Shoulder Wear (Generally Wear Develops In Outer Shoulder):
Batteries are covered for 100 months, with full coverage for the first 36 months in service and
prorated between the 37th and 100th month of service as listed in the table.
Replacement Batteries Sold Between February 1, 2000, and October 31, 2004
See Section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Disclaimer
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 3156
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
INSPECTION
1. Turn Ignition switch off. Connect the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and
2. Connect a jumper wire between terminal A6 and terminal A26. 3. Turn ignition switch on.
Immediately measure voltage between terminals D14 (+) and A26 (-) as soon as ignition switch is
turned on. Voltage
should start at 0.4 - 0.5 volts when switch is first turned on, then decrease to below 0.1 volts in less
than two minutes.
4. If initial voltage is 0.1 volt or less, disconnect the four pin connector from the Heated Oxygen
Sensor (HO2S).
^ If voltage now reads 1.0 volt or less substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
^ If components test OK, check for opens or shorts in WHITE wire between PGM-FI ECM terminal
D14 and HO2S four pin connector, also GREEN/WHITE wire between PGM-FI ECM terminal D22
and HO2S four pin connector.
Page 302
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 3148
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 662
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Locations
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Circuit Schematics
Locations
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 5690
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 280
6. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 39.
Page 1883
Brake Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Brake Switch Signal informs the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) whenever the brakes are applied, to modify idle speed and charging voltages as
necessary.
OPERATION
The 12 volt Brake Switch Signal is produced by the brake light switch as the driver depresses the
brake pedal. This is the same switch which operates the brake lights at the rear of the vehicle.
Page 2413
PURPOSE
The Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, mounted on the intake manifold, is used to provide a stable idle
under normal operating conditions.
OPERATION
The IAC Valve is powered by ignition switch terminal Ign. 1 and receives power anytime the ignition
is turned ON. The Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) controls
the ground circuit. The valve is used to correct idle speed when out of normal operating
parameters. Idle speed is modified by allowing air to bypass the throttle plate through the IAC
Valve. By varying the current of the signal to the IAC Valve the PGM-FI ECM is able to control the
position of the IAC Valve plunger.
Page 4015
Fuse Details Schematics
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Piston Removal
16. Use the wooden handle of a hammer to drive the pistons out. 17. Reinstall the rod bearings and
caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly. 18. Mark each piston/connecting rod
assembly with its cylinder number to avoid mix-up on reassembly.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the engine, it
indicates the rod bore size.
Page 1407
Fuse Details Schematics
18. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the special tool from the rear actuator, and install the cap
bolt and the new sealing washer on the rear
actuator.
INSPECTION
1. Turn Ignition switch off. Connect the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and
2. Connect a jumper wire between terminal A6 and terminal A26. 3. Turn ignition switch on.
Immediately measure voltage between terminals D14 (+) and A26 (-) as soon as ignition switch is
turned on. Voltage
should start at 0.4 - 0.5 volts when switch is first turned on, then decrease to below 0.1 volts in less
than two minutes.
4. If initial voltage is 0.1 volt or less, disconnect the four pin connector from the Heated Oxygen
Sensor (HO2S).
^ If voltage now reads 1.0 volt or less substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
^ If components test OK, check for opens or shorts in WHITE wire between PGM-FI ECM terminal
D14 and HO2S four pin connector, also GREEN/WHITE wire between PGM-FI ECM terminal D22
and HO2S four pin connector.
Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Wheel Bearing: Customer Interest Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
97-018
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3849
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 648
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Page 4705
Operation number: 737002
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 3381
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 5192
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
^ If you are using a Curtis Key Cutter and need parts or information, contact:
Curtis Industries, Inc. 34999 Curtis Blvd., Eastlake, OH 44094-4899 (216) 951-2400.
APPLICATION CHART
Page 327
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 2667
8. Measure voltage between D10 (+) terminal and A26 (-) terminal. While measuring, turn headlight
switch to second position (low). Voltage should
9. If voltage drops but DTC indication or symptom still exist substitute known good PGM-FI ECM.
Page 332
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
3. Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the fuel pipe, while holding the special banjo
bolt with another wrench. 4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY
loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn.
INSPECTION
1. Remove the service bolt on the fuel pipe while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench and
attach the fuel pressure gauge. 2. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with engine idling
and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. 3. Pressure should read 255 -
305 kpa (36 - 43 psi) 4. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 5. Pressure
should read 195 - 245 kpa (28 - 35 psi) 6. If the fuel pressure is not as specified check the fuel
pump. If the fuel pump is okay, then check as follows:
The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Purge Control Solenoid Valve is used to
control vacuum to the EVAP Purge Control Diaphragm Valve.
OPERATION
Upon receiving a signal from the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI
ECM) the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve applies vacuum to the EVAP Purge Control
Diaphragm Valve and canister purging is accomplished by drawing fresh air through the canister
and into a port on the throttle body.
NOTE: 5 seconds after engine start, the purge control solenoid valve remains off until coolant
temperature warms above 75°C (167°F).
Page 983
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 494
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1196
1. Connect a tachometer.
2. Remove the engine oil pressure switch and install an oil pressure gauge. 3. Start the engine.
Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the problem before continuing.
4. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (radiator fan comes on at least twice). 5. The
pressure, with engine oil at approx. 80°C (176°F) should be:
At idle:
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 1286
4. Align the bolt hole and the balancer shaft hole, then insert a 6 x 100 mm bolt to hold the rear
balancer shaft. 5. Remove the bolt and the balancer drive gear.
Oil Pump Removal
6. Remove the oil screen and the oil pump. 7. Remove the baffle plate.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5361
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 3296
5. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
6. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE: All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select
another battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the ED-18 analyzer result
may be wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
8. Measure the battery temperature by placing the analyzer's IR temperature sensor within 1 to 2
inches of the top or side of the battery. (The arrow on
Page 4148
Image 22-13
Page 2268
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends
this information to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM contains memories for optimum EGR lift during various conditions. It reads
actual EGR position from the lift sensor. The sensor uses a plunger operated potentiometer
supplying a signal to the PGM-FI ECM. If the EGR actual position differs from it's preferred
position, the PGM-FI ECM cuts control solenoid power to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Page 502
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
NOTE: Perform an input test for the Ignition Control Module (ICM) only after finishing the
fundamental tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions system. also verify that the
tachometer operates normally.
1. Remove the distributor cap, the distributor rotor, and the inner cover.
2. Disconnect the BLACK/YELLOW, GREEN, YELLOW/GREEN, and BLUE wires from the ICM. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW wire and chassis
ground. There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check the BLACK/YELLOW wire between the Ignition Coil and the
ICM.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the GREEN wire and chassis ground.
There should be battery voltage.
Ignition coil.
5. Check the YELLOW/GREEN wire between the PGM-IG ECM and the ICM. 6. Check the BLUE
wire between the tachometer and the ICM. 7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
Page 3269
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Page 1868
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4186
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 5080
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 2212
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 5438
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 5565
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 4038
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Page 4527
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 5034
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5348
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 2371
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Locations
The Fuel Pressure Regulator is mounted to the fuel rail.
Description and Operation
Fuel Return Line: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Fuel Line system utilizes three sets of fuel lines located underneath the vehicle on the left side.
The Fuel Feed (Supply) Line delivers fuel pressurized by the in-tank electric fuel pump from the
fuel tank. The fuel is fed into the fuel filter, from there to the fuel rail.
This line is connected between the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel tank. When the fuel rail
pressure exceeds the specified amount, the pressure regulator opens and bleeds the excess fuel
through this line and back into the fuel tank.
This line is connected between the fuel tank and the charcoal canister for evaporative emissions
control. The Fuel Vapor Line is connected to the fuel cut-off valve at the top of the fuel tank. When
the vapor pressure in the fuel tank exceeds the specified value of the two-way valve, the two-way
valve opens and purges the vapors to the charcoal canister through the fuel cut-off valve,
fuel/vapor separator and the Fuel Vapor Line.
Page 2040
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
1. Disconnect 4-P connector and measure resistance between terminals, Fig. 10. Resistance will
vary with temperature. Specified resistance is at 70°
F.
2. Proceed as follows:
a. Measure resistance for vent solenoid between C and D terminals. Resistance should be
80.0-120 ohms. b. Measure resistance for vacuum solenoid between B and D terminals.
Resistance should be 70.0-110 ohms. c. Measure resistance for safety solenoid between A and D
terminals. Resistance should be 40.0-60.0 ohms.
Page 356
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Photo 12
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 220
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
In warranty: American Honda will reimburse for this repair only under these conditions:
*NOTE:
When submitting the claim, make sure you enter the vehicle's date of receipt in the customer
contention comment section. The claim will be rejected without this information.*
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Tear off a piece of clay. Shape the piece with your hands into a flat disk about 3 inches in
diameter.
3. Spray a 2-to 3-square-foot area of the affected panel with the manufacturer's lubricant.
4. Clean a 1-square-foot section of the sprayed area by rubbing it with the clay.
Locations
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve is located at the right corner of the intake manifold
near the ignition distributor. The EGR Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve.
Page 254
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends
this information to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM contains memories for optimum EGR lift during various conditions. It reads
actual EGR position from the lift sensor. The sensor uses a plunger operated potentiometer
supplying a signal to the PGM-FI ECM. If the EGR actual position differs from it's preferred
position, the PGM-FI ECM cuts control solenoid power to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Sunroof Close Relay
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), located rear of the transmission on the differential, is used by
the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to determine vehicle
speed and by the speedometer to drive the trip odometer/mileage odometer stepper motors and
the speedometer driver to indicate vehicle speed.
OPERATION
The speed sensor pulses the signal wire, switching its connection to ground on and off. The
number of pulses increasing with vehicle speed. This signal is used to operate the stepper motors
for the trip/mileage odometer, and the speedometer driver to indicate vehicle speed. This same
signal is used by the PGM-FI ECM to determine vehicle speed for PGM-FI operation.
Adjustments
2. Shift selector to Neutral position, then remove lockpin from cable adjuster, Fig. 14. 3. Ensure
hole in adjuster is perfectly aligned with hole in shift cable. 4. If holes are not aligned, loosen
locknut on shift cable and adjust as necessary. There are two holes in end of shift cable positioned
90 degrees
5. Tighten locknut, then install lockpin on adjuster. If lock pin binds during installation, cable is still
out of adjustment. 6. Start engine and check shift lever in all gears. If any gear does not work, refer
to Testing and Inspection / Procedures.
Front Sub Steering Angle Sensor
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 661
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Page 1758
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
FUEL PRESSURE
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 4834
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1984
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
28. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm. 29. Remove the crankshaft
pulley. 30. Install the timing belt lower cover. 31. Install a new seal around the adjusting nut. Do not
loosen the nut. 32. Install the timing belt upper cover. 33. Install the crankshaft pulley. 34. Coat the
threads and seating face of the pulley bolt with engine oil. Install and tighten to the specified torque.
3. Install the boot over the spring tab for the fuel fill door.
PRELUDE
3. Before installing the boot, apply a small amount of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (Black), 3M P/N
051135-08011, to the spring tab.
CIVIC
Page 2176
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Specifications
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Specifications
RESISTANCE
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5646
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
PURPOSE
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is used to determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder
for sequential fuel injection, normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also
detects engine RPM.
OPERATION
The unit is made up of three separate sensors mounted inside the distributor. The Top Dead
Center (TDC) Sensor, the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, and the Cylinder Position (CYP)
Sensor. All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition
timing and to calculate engine RPM. ^
The TDC sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also
used as a backup signal in the event the CYP sensor signal becomes abnormal.
^ The CYP sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper
timing of the sequential fuel injection system for each cylinder.
^ The CKP sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects
engine speed.
Page 3412
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Under Hood Fuse / Relay Box
Page 5380
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Locations
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
THROTTLE POSITION / OUTPUT VOLTAGE
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5305
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 391
Headlamp Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 4.
Remove steering column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6.
Remove two switch attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse
procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to
Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 5353
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
Compact Disc Player (CD): All Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
DVDs:
A Big Taboo
NOTE:
This article applies to all Honda models with a factory- or dealer-installed CD/DVD player or
changer.
We can't emphasize this enough: Never put adhesive labels or protective disc covers on
recordable CDs or DVDs to be used in automotive CD/DVD players or changers. Here's why:
^ Recordable CDs and DVDs are actually thicker than their pre-recorded brethern. Automotive
players and changers use rollers to draw the disc into the
unit. The added thickness of an adhesive label or a protective disc cover can cause the disc to jam
when it's loaded into or ejected from the unit.
^ CD/DVD players or changers are exposed to high temperatures inside the vehicle. High
temperature can cause the label adhesive to soften. This can
cause the label to curl on the edges and even form bubbles. Curled edges can catch on the rollers
and bubbles add thickness to the disc. Either one can cause the disc to jam.
To cut down on customer-caused damage, all '05 and later 0/Ms include this notice:
Do not use CDs with adhesive labels. The label can curl up and cause the CD to jam in the unit.
Anytime a service customer comes in with a loading or ejecting problem for a CD/DVD player or
changer, ask if he or she used any discs with adhesive labels or protective disc covers. If the
answer is yes, contact your DPSM for possible goodwill assistance. If the answer is no, then
replace the audio unit under normal warranty.
Front Sub Steering Angle Sensor
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 3376
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 847
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair ABS Hydraulic Component Bleeding and Fluid Service
1. Drain brake fluid from master cylinder and modulator reservoir thoroughly. 2. Using bleeder
T-wrench tool No. 07HAJ-SG00101, or equivalent, back out maintenance bleeder screw slowly 90
degrees to collect high pressure
fluid in wrench reservoir, then back screw out one complete turn to drain brake fluid thoroughly.
3. Retighten bleeder screw and discard fluid.
1. Brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of modulator reservoir with a syringe. It may also
be drained through the pump joint after
2. Loosen master cylinder bleed screw and pump brake pedal to drain brake fluid from master
cylinder.
Modulator Unit
CAUTION: Be sure to drain the high-pressure brake fluid completely before performing the
modulator function check, disposing the modulator unit, and ABS pump motor replacement.
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
1. Remove the bleeder cap from the maintenance bleeder on the modulator unit. 2. Attach the
wrench to the maintenance bleeder. 3. Connect a rubber tube of the appropriate diameter to the
maintenance bleeder, and set the other end of the rubber tube in a suitable container. 4. While
holding the rubber tube with your hand, slowly loosen the maintenance bleeder 1/8 to 1/4 turn to
collect the brake fluid in the container.
Page 856
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 14, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, a system malfunction is indicated.
Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag Systems/Testing and
Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Locations
The Electrical Load Detector (ELD) is mounted in the under-hood relay box.
Page 1555
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5789
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
10. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the battery test result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
11. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
12. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically changes to its
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
Page 940
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 4742
Procedure 1
Specifications
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Page 1434
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
The Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor, mounted on and driven by the throttle body unit, is used by the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to detect throttle movement
and position.
OPERATION
A 5 volt reference signal is applied from the PGM-FI ECM and a ground signal. When the throttle is
opened the sensor resistance changes which is read as a varying voltage signal. At idle position
the sensor voltage is approx. 0.5 Volts and at full throttle approx. 4.5 Volts.
Page 3286
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info.
09-045
(Supersedes 09-027, dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE VERSION, the method to check the current software was updated.*
INTRODUCTION
The software for the ED-18 Battery Analyzer (or tester) is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. To help you update the ED-18 tester more quickly, American
Honda no longer distributes CDs for the tester. You can now use the Midtronics ED-18 update
wizard to download software and firmware to your ED-18 tester using a PC and the Internet. It is
extremely important to use the latest ED-18 software to ensure that the current battery testing
procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that ED-18 testers are updated promptly. The ED-18
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer: ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBED18LLH ED-18 Version 2: P/N INB17191840
^ 7/64" hex wrench: P/N INBi7191270* *Both the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench were
included with the ED-18 update that was shipped to dealerships in November 2008.
^ Internet access
^ An IBM-compatible PC:
- CD ROM
- R5232 (9 pin) serial port, or an R5232 to USB Adapter (P/N MTRA164) (Some newer computers
do not have an R5232 port. You will need to order the R5232 to USB adapter to update your ED-18
testers.)
To order the ED-18 Battery Analyzer version 2, the interface cable, the R5232 to USB adapter, or
the hex wrench, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service
Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
SOFTWARE VERSION
Page 5693
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard
SERVICE TIP:
There's a new performance standard for engine oil: GF-4. It was jointly developed by automotive
and oil experts, and it represents a significant performance upgrade and improvement in fuel
economy. GF-4 engine oils must pass grueling tests totaling over 500 hours. On top of this, Honda
Genuine engine oils are also tested to ensure specific compatibility with Honda vehicles.
GF-4 engine oil is compatible with all current and earlier model year Honda cars and trucks. It also
provides these added benefits:
While Honda has upgraded its engine oil to GF-4, other brands may not yet be at this new
standard. Keep in mind you must use Honda Genuine engine oil for all warranty repairs. If you use
some other brand of oil for non-warranty repairs, make sure that oil meets the GF-4 standard. We
recommend you stop using non-GF-4 engine oils and check with your supplier that you're
purchasing GF-4 oil.
Engine oil produced after April 1, 2005, that meets the GF-4 standard, must post this starburst
certification mark on the container. Always look for this mark; some oil container labels won't
specifically refer to GF-4.
Page 213
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Specifications
Fuel Filter: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Fuel Filter
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Technician Safety Information
Tires: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: This vehicle has a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). Refer to the SRS
component and wiring location view in order to determine whether you are performing service on or
near the SRS components or the SRS wiring. when you are performing service on or near the SRS
components or the SRS wiring, refer to the SRS service information. failure to follow warnings
could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SRS system
repairs.
Page 1860
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 5829
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. When replacing lefthand side sensor, remove foot rest and door sill molding, then pull back
carpet. 3. When replacing righthand side sensor, remove foot rest and door sill molding, then pull
back carpet. Remove fuel injection ECM.
4. On either sensor, remove sensor mounting bolts, then the sensor, Fig. 35. 5. Reverse procedure
to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten dash attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition
switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
6. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 4819
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Locations
1. Turn ignition switch off. 2. Remove the right door sill moulding and the small cover on the right
kick panel. Pull the carpet back to expose the PGM-FI ECM. 3. Unbolt the PGM-FI ECM cover. 4.
Disconnect the PGM-FI ECM connector and remove the PGM-FI ECM.
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the PGM-FI ECM connector. 2. Position the PGM-FI ECM onto the bolts on the floor. 3.
Reinstall the protective cover and secure. 4. Reposition the carpet, kick panel and sill trim.
Page 895
Power Distribution
Page 5643
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Locations
Compact Disc Player (CD): Customer Interest Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes
00-015
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 2180
INSPECTION
1. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Turn the ignition switch
on. 2. Measure the voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW terminal and the BLACK terminal on the
harness side of the connector. Voltage should read
approx. 5.0 volts. (If not, inspect no. 23 fuse (15A) in under dash fuse box).
3. Reconnect the three pin connector. Block rear wheels. Set park brake. Raise front of car and
support with safety stands. 4. Carefully back probe the ORANGE wire and connect it to chassis
ground THROUGH A VOLTMETER. 5. Block right front wheel. Slowly rotate left front wheel by
hand. Voltage should pulse between 12.0 volts and 0.0 volts. If voltage does not pulse,
replace VSS.
Page 5089
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 3424
Photo 138
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Circuit Schematics
Page 4017
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3722
When the car is moving at high speed, negative pressure develops at the sensor inlet because the
power steering speed sensor is pumping faster than the fluid can be supplied. To compensate for
this, the outlet and inlet ports are connected internally by a passage containing a one-way valve
that lets output fluid recirculate to the inlet port to equalize pressure.
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair ABS Hydraulic Component Bleeding and Fluid Service
1. Drain brake fluid from master cylinder and modulator reservoir thoroughly. 2. Using bleeder
T-wrench tool No. 07HAJ-SG00101, or equivalent, back out maintenance bleeder screw slowly 90
degrees to collect high pressure
fluid in wrench reservoir, then back screw out one complete turn to drain brake fluid thoroughly.
3. Retighten bleeder screw and discard fluid.
1. Brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of modulator reservoir with a syringe. It may also
be drained through the pump joint after
2. Loosen master cylinder bleed screw and pump brake pedal to drain brake fluid from master
cylinder.
Modulator Unit
CAUTION: Be sure to drain the high-pressure brake fluid completely before performing the
modulator function check, disposing the modulator unit, and ABS pump motor replacement.
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
1. Remove the bleeder cap from the maintenance bleeder on the modulator unit. 2. Attach the
wrench to the maintenance bleeder. 3. Connect a rubber tube of the appropriate diameter to the
maintenance bleeder, and set the other end of the rubber tube in a suitable container. 4. While
holding the rubber tube with your hand, slowly loosen the maintenance bleeder 1/8 to 1/4 turn to
collect the brake fluid in the container.
Page 4981
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Radio - Buzzing In The Driver's Door
Front Door Panel: All Technical Service Bulletins Radio - Buzzing In The Driver's Door
SYMPTOM
A buzzing noise can be heard in the driver's door when the audio system volume is turned up to
the midpoint or higher.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Apply EPT Sealer 10T (see PARTS INFORMATION) to the back of the door lock control unit.
1. Remove the driver's door panel. Refer to page 20-3 of the service manual.
PARTS INFORMATION
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1. 5. Remove glove compartment.
Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower panel. 3. Disconnect 5-P and 20-P connectors from main wire
harness.
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 11.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Locations
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Locations
Applicable To ALL
Warped Console
PROBLEM
The front console is warped at the seam with the center console.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 3941
Waddle is side-to-side movement at the front and/or rear of the car. It can be caused by the steel
belt not being straight within the tire, or by excessive lateral runout of the tire or wheel. It is most
noticeable at low speed, about 8 to 48 km/h (5 to 30 mph). It may also cause rough ride at 80 to
113 km/h (50 to 70 mph). The car can be road tested to see which end of the car has the faulty tire.
If the tire causing the waddle is on the rear, the rear end of the car will "waddle". From the driver's
seat, it feels as if someone is pushing on the side of the car. If the faulty tire is on the front, the
waddle is more easily seen. The front sheet metal appears to be moving back and forth. It feels as
if the driver's seat is the pivot point in the car. Another more time-consuming method of determining
the faulty tire is substituting tire and wheel assemblies that are known to be good. Follow these
steps:
1. Drive the car to determine if the waddle is coming from the front or rear. 2. Install tire and wheel
assemblies known to be good (from a similar car) in place of those on the end of the car which is
waddling. If the waddle
3. Road test again. If improvement is noted, install the original tire and wheel assemblies one at a
time until the faulty tire is found. If no
improvement is noted, install tires known to be good in place of all four. Then, install the originals
one at a time until the faulty tire is found.
Page 5144
Seat Belt And Ignition Key Reminders
Page 2875
* REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transmission from the vehicle (see the Manual Transmission section of the
appropriate service manual).
2. Disassemble the transmission (see the Manual Transmission section of the appropriate service
manual). You do not need to disassemble the differential.
3. Remove any metal particles from the transmission's internal parts and from the inside of the
case.
Page 4761
2. Remove the armrest pocket.
3. Remove the inner handle trim panel mounting screw. Carefully pry the trim panel outward to
unclip it from the door panel, then slide it backward to unhook it. Disconnect the connectors for the
door lock and window switches, then remove the trim panel.
4. Remove two screws and release the door panel clips with a clip remover. Remove the door
panel by carefully pulling it up.
Page 2092
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3601
^ Loosen the tie-rod locknuts and turn both tie-rods in the same direction until the rear wheels are
in straight ahead position.
NOTE: Make sure the 4WS indicator is ON.
^ Turn both tie-rods equally until the toe is correct. ^ After adjusting, tighten the tie-rod locknuts.
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized tour wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
1. Jack up the front of the car. Set the turning radius gauges beneath the front wheels, then lower
the car. 2. 2WS: Jack up the rear of the car. Place boards that are the same thickness as the
turning radius gauges under the rear wheels, then lower the car.
4WS: Jack up the rear of the car. Set the turning radius gauges beneath the rear wheels, then
lower the car.
3. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brake. Measure the turning angle of both front
wheels, and both rear wheels (4WS models).
The Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch sends a signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to increase idle speed when the demand for power
steering causes the idle to drop.
OPERATION
When the power steering is operated a signal is sent to the PGM-FI ECM which then commands
the Idle Air Control Valve to raise the idle speed compensating for the increased engine load.
Page 1004
Tires: Service and Repair Balancing
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Page 221
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Locations
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Wheel Bearing: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
97-018
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 1085
6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the side engine mount bracket stay B standard for
some types). 8. Remove the upper cover. 9. Remove the side engine mount.
10. Remove the dipstick and the pipe. 11. Remove the special bolt and the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the two rear bolts from the center beam to allow the engine to drop down and give
clearance to remove the lower cover.
12. Remove the timing belt adjuster rubber seal. Do not loosen the adjusting nut. 13. Remove the
lower cover.
Page 2118
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3817
4. On models less air bag, align slots on steering wheel and tabs on turn signal cancelling sleeve,
Fig. 2. 5. torque steering wheel mounting nut to 36 ft. lbs. 6. On models equipped with air bag,
install air bag assembly with new Torx bolts. Confirm air bag assembly is securely attached to
steering
wheel; otherwise, severe personal injury could result during later air bag deployment.
7. On models less air bag, install steering column center pad. 8. On models equipped with radio
coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Locations
1. Remove the rear seat back. 2. Disconnect the terminal wires and connectors from the control
unit. 3. Remove the control unit. 4. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: Turn the ignition switch ON and check the 4WS indicator light operation.
Page 2452
INSTALLATION
1. Fully open the throttle valve, then install the throttle cable in the throttle linkage and install the
cable housing in the cable bracket.
2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 3. Hold the
cable sheath, removing all slack from the cable. 4. Turn the adjusting nut until it is 3 mm (0.12 in.)
away from the cable bracket.
5. Tighten the locknut. The cable deflection should now be 10-12 mm (0.39-0.47 in.).
Front Strut
1. Raise and support front of vehicle and remove wheels. 2. Remove brake hose mounting bolts
from damper.
tight.
6. Install damper fork over drive axle and lower arm, then slide fork over lower end of shock
absorber, aligning tab on shock with slot in fork. 7. Install damper fork retaining bolt and pinch bolt
hand tight. 8. Position suitable jack under knuckle hub, then raise knuckle until weight of vehicle is
supported by damper assembly.
Page 5295
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 3028
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Rear
Refer to Fig. when replacing rear speed sensor.
Front
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3891
19. Remove the cotter pin and lower arm ball joint nut. 20. Install a 14 mm hex nut on the ball joint.
Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint
pin
21. Use the bail joint remover to separate the ball joint and lower arm.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
22. Remove the knuckle protector. 23. Remove the cotter pin and the upper ball joint nut. 24. Install
a 10 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the
threaded section of the ball joint pin
25. Use the ball joint remover to separate the ball joint and knuckle.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
26. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle using a
plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Driver Airbag Replacement
WARNING: Prior to disconnecting any Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) electrical connectors
or servicing any system components or other components located near a SRS electrical connector,
the SRS must be disarmed. Refer to Technician Safety Information. SRS electrical wiring can be
identified by a yellow outer protective coating. Store a removed air bag assembly with the pad
surface up. If the air bag is stored face down, accidental deployment could propel the unit with
enough force to cause serious injury.
REMOVAL
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
3. Remove two air bag assembly attaching bolts, then the air bag assembly, Fig. 24.
INSTALLATION
1. Position driver side air bag assembly to steering wheel, then install the two attaching bolts.
Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. 2. Reconnect battery positive cable, then negative cable.
3. After completing installation, place ignition switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be
illuminated for approximately six seconds, then
lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS is
indicated.
4. If vehicle is equipped with radio theft protection, place radio control knob in On position. When
the word Code appears on the radio display panel,
enter the five-digit radio theft protection code number. Turn ignition switch On and observe
instrument panel SRS indicator light. It should come On for approximately six seconds, then turn
Off.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 5181
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Radio - Buzzing In The Driver's Door
Front Door Panel: Customer Interest Radio - Buzzing In The Driver's Door
SYMPTOM
A buzzing noise can be heard in the driver's door when the audio system volume is turned up to
the midpoint or higher.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Apply EPT Sealer 10T (see PARTS INFORMATION) to the back of the door lock control unit.
1. Remove the driver's door panel. Refer to page 20-3 of the service manual.
PARTS INFORMATION
Procedure 3
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the HONDANET 2000
system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Procedure 4
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
BACKGROUND
Due to production differences, the dimensional layout of the power door lock system has some
variance that may cause the system not to function as designed. To ensure proper operation and
the intended level of security, the passenger's door key cylinder lock rod needs to be replaced.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994:
Si - From VIN JHMBB2...RC007498 thru VIN RC009047 VTEC - From VIN JHMBB1...R0001521
thru VIN RC002041
1995:
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be contacted by mail. The owner will be asked to take the car to a
dealership for updating. Instructions on how to remove the fuse from the power door lock system
will also be given, providing greater security until the owner is able to take the car to the dealership.
The text of the customer letter is at the end of this service bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the key cylinder lock rod in the passenger's door with the new rod listed under PARTS
INFORMATION.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 993
Tires: Vehicle Damage Warnings
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. Honda will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. Honda will also call out the fasteners that require thread
lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings (Paints,
greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally,
such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping force, and may damage
the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications.
Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Page 420
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4250
Connect battery power to terminal C and ground terminal B, and connect a test light between
terminals A and C.
Dip the A/C thermostat into a cup filled with ice water, and check the test light.
The light should go OFF at 37°F (3°C) or less, and should come ON at 39°F (4°C) or more.
If the light doesn't come on and go off as specified, replace the A/C thermostat.
Page 4411
The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart,
look at the FCC ID on the back.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting
the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
4. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover 5. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and top adjusting nut, then remove
the alternator belt.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
1. Install new O-ring on rack with its narrow edge facing out. 2. Coat pinion seal ring guide with
power steering fluid, then slide onto rack, big end first. 3. Position new piston seal ring on piston
seal ring guide tool No. 07LAG-SM40100, or equivalent, slide seal ring onto big end of tool, then
pull it
4. Coat piston seal ring and piston seal ring sizing tool No. 07LAG-SM40200, or equivalent, with
power steering fluid. 5. Carefully slide tool onto rack and over piston ring, then rotate tool as you
move it up and down to seat piston ring. 6. Coat new O-rings with grease, then install onto cylinder
cap. 7. Slide cylinder cap onto seal retainer. 8. Install snap ring and O-ring on seal retainer. 9.
Grease sliding surface of steering rack bushing B, then install bushing on steering rack with groove
of bushing facing steering rack piston.
10. Grease sliding surfaces of new cylinder end seal and cylinder end slider tool No.
07LAG-SM40300, or equivalent, then place seal on tool with its
11. Install tool and cylinder end seal on rack. Ensure rack teeth do not face slot in tool. 12.
Separate cylinder end seal from tool, then remove tool from rack. 13. Fit seal retainer on steering
rack. 14. Push rack bushing B toward seal retainer until cylinder end seal is seated in retainer. Fit
seal stopper ring in groove of seal retainer securely, then
grease rack.
15. Install retainer washer on gear housing. 16. Place gear housing on bench and insert seal
retainer and steering rack into gear housing. 17. Coat inside surface of cylinder with power steering
fluid. 18. Slide cylinder over rack and into gear housing, then press into housing until it seats. 19.
Install cylinder spring over rack, then coat bushing A with power steering fluid and install it onto
spring. 20. Wrap end of steering rack with vinyl tape, then coat tape with grease. 21. Coat inside
surface of cylinder with power steering fluid, then install cylinder end seal with its grooved side
facing out. 22. Install O-ring and back-up ring on gear housing. 23. Carefully position cylinder on
gear housing and loosely install four bolts. Be careful no to damage end seal of cylinder housing.
24. Remove vinyl tape from steering rack. 25. Ensure mating surfaces of gear housing and cylinder
housing are aligned by pushing together. While holding together, tighten four attaching bolts
to specifications.
26. Insert steering rack into cylinder housing, being careful not to damage steering rack sliding
surface. 27. Install steering pinion into pinion holder, then the circlip securely into pinion holder
groove with its tapered side facing outward. 28. Grease sealing lip of steering pinion seal, then
install it onto gear housing. 29. Wrap spline area of steering pinion with vinyl tape and grease
surface of tape. 30. Grease new O-ring and install it into gear housing. 31. Slide gear housing cap
over steering pinion, being careful not to damage sealing lip or dislodge pinion seal spring. 32.
Tighten gear housing cap attaching bolts to specifications. 33. Remove vinyl tape from steering
pinion, then install new lock washer in groove of steering rack. 34. Holding steering rack with a
wrench, tighten rack end to specifications. 35. After tightening rack end, stake lock washer in four
places. 36. Apply steering grease to circumference of rack end housing. 37. Coat rack end groove
and inside of boot with silicone grease. 38. Install boots on rack end with tube clamps. 39. Install tie
rod ends, then tighten tie rod end locknut to specifications. 40. Grease new O-ring and install it in
groove of rack guide screw. 41. Coat rack guide sliding surface with grease, then install rack guide,
spring and rack guide screw onto gear housing. 42. Adjust rack guide at center of rack stroke as
necessary. 43. On models with 2-wheel steering, proceed as follows:
a. Tighten rack guide screw until it compresses spring and seats against rack guide, then loosen it.
b. Torque rack guide screw to 34 inch lbs. and back it off approximately 20 degrees, then install
locknut on rack guide screw. c. Using suitable tool to hold the rack guide screw, tighten locknut.
a. Install locknut on sub-steering angle sensor. b. Grease new O-ring and install it in groove of
sub-steering angle sensor. c. Install rack guide screw, then coat rack guide sliding surface with
grease. d. Install rack guide, spring, O-ring and front sub-steering angle sensor on gear housing.
Adjust rack guide at center of rack stroke as necessary. e. Tighten rack guide screw until it
compresses the spring and seats against rack guide, then loosen it. f.
Tighten rack guide screw to specifications, then back it off approximately 20 degrees and install
locknut on rack guide.
45. Coat O-rings with grease and install together with orifices. 46. Coat O-ring and pinion holder pin
with grease, then install into valve body unit.
Page 311
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Pushrod Clearance
Brake Master Cylinder: Adjustments Pushrod Clearance
Master cylinder pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjusted before installing master
cylinder.
1. Using pushrod adjustment gauge tool No. 07JAG-SD40100, or equivalent, adjust bolt so top of it
is flush with end of master cylinder piston, Fig.
1.
2. Install master cylinder rod seal between pushrod bolt adjustment gauge and brake booster. 3.
Without disturbing position of adjusting bolts, install gauge upside down on booster and torque nuts
to 11 ft. lbs.
4. Connect booster inline with a vacuum gauge, and maintain an engine speed that will deliver 20
inches of vacuum. Then, using a feeler gauge,
measure clearance between gauge body and adjusting nut, Fig. 2. Clearance should be 0.020
inches.
5. If clearance is incorrect, loosen star locknut and turn adjuster in or out to adjust. Hold clevis
while adjusting, then tighten star locknut securely. 6. After adjustment, loosen clevis end pushrod
locknut and turn pushrod to obtain correct pedal height. Adjust pedal to floor height, to the following
specifications: a. On models with manual transaxle, 6.5 inches; with automatic transaxle, 7.32
inches.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4887
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 4937
6. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 39.
Locations
The Electrical Load Detector (ELD) is mounted in the under-hood relay box.
Locations
TOE-IN:
This illustration shows view from the top of the vehicle. Toe-in is the measured amount the front
wheels are turn in. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a degree. Toe-in is
measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The purpose of toe-in is
to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections of the wheel support
system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in results in excessive toe-in
and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front end alignment procedure.
Page 2173
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Locations
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve. The EGR Valve
is located at the right corner of the intake manifold near the ignition distributor.
Page 2065
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair
REM0VAL
1. Turn ignition switch off. 2. Remove the right door sill moulding and the small cover on the right
kick panel. Pull the carpet back to expose the PGM-FI ECM. 3. Unbolt the PGM-FI ECM cover. 4.
Disconnect the PGM-FI ECM connector and remove the PGM-FI ECM.
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the PGM-FI ECM connector. 2. Position the PGM-FI ECM onto the bolts on the floor. 3.
Reinstall the protective cover and secure. 4. Reposition the carpet, kick panel and sill trim.
Page 4142
Condenser Fan: Description and Operation
With A/C
Radiator fan and condenser fan operation is controlled by the radiator fan control module. The
control module can turn ON the radiator fan motor anytime during the first 15 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
The control module applies voltage to the condenser fan relay and radiator fan relay coils. When
engine coolant temperature reaches 93°C (199°F) (S, Si, SR, 4WS) or 95°C (203°F) (VTEC, SR-V)
engine coolant temperature switch A closes, and energizes both relays.
Voltage is then applied through fuse 47 to the radiator fan relay and the radiator fan motor, and,
because the motor is grounded at G201, the radiator fan starts running.
Voltage is also applied through fuse 45 to the condenser fan relay and the condenser fan motor,
and, because the motor is grounded at G381 (S) or G301 (Si, SR, 4WS, VTEC, SR-V) the
condenser fan also starts running.
Both fans will run when the control module receives an "A/C request" signal from the BLU/RED
wire when you turn ON the A/C switch in the heater control panel.
When you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), the condenser fan will stop, but the radiator fan will
remain ON until engine coolant temperature switch B opens (below 105°C, 221°F), or the control
module opens the circuit (about 15 minutes).
Page 4030
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
At 3000 RPM........................................................................................................................................
............................................................0.5 Volts During deceleration from 3000 RPM.........................
...........................................................................................................................Below 0.5 Volts
Page 4009
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 0.4 hour - Prelude 0.2 hour - Accord, Civic, and del Sol
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 999
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
Page 1992
PURPOSE
The ECM illuminates the "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" any time a problem is detected the
PGM-FI Computer. This warning is the first indication to the driver there is a problem in the system.
LOCATION
OPERATION
If a problem is detected in any of the monitored systems, this light is the primary means of notifying
the driver that a problem exists. The ECM also stores a trouble code in erasable memory.
Page 3222
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2139
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor, mounted on and driven by the throttle body unit, is used by the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to detect throttle movement
and position.
OPERATION
A 5 volt reference signal is applied from the PGM-FI ECM and a ground signal. When the throttle is
opened the sensor resistance changes which is read as a varying voltage signal. At idle position
the sensor voltage is approx. 0.5 Volts and at full throttle approx. 4.5 Volts.
Page 3153
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
7. Install the new sleeve set (synchro ring, hub, and sleeve) on the mainshaft.
8. Reassemble the rest of the removed parts on the mainshaft. Refer to the appropriate service
manual for the correct reassembly procedure.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 3763
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Torque Converter Oil Seal - Installation Tool
Seals and Gaskets: Technical Service Bulletins Torque Converter Oil Seal - Installation Tool
00-022
March 7, 2000
Applies To: ALL Models With L4 or V6 Engine and A/T With 44 mm I.D. Torque Converter Oil Seal
The service manual procedure for installing the torque converter oil seal requires you to
disassemble the transmission. A new required special tool, which attaches to your existing 40 mm
l.D. driver, lets you install this seal without removing the main shaft or disassembling the
transmission.
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional seal driver attachments are available from American Honda using normal parts ordering
procedures.
PROCEDURE
2. Remove and discard the torque converter oil seal. Be careful not to damage the torque converter
housing.
4. Press the long end of the seal driver attachment into the driver. Press the new seal onto the
short end. Do not apply any type of sealer to the seal or
Page 4979
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5281
PURPOSE
The ECM illuminates the "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" any time a problem is detected the
PGM-FI Computer. This warning is the first indication to the driver there is a problem in the system.
LOCATION
OPERATION
If a problem is detected in any of the monitored systems, this light is the primary means of notifying
the driver that a problem exists. The ECM also stores a trouble code in erasable memory.
Page 5680
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 4789
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 577
18. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the special tool from the rear actuator, and install the cap
bolt and the new sealing washer on the rear
actuator.
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral 7. After
adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 5124
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 1895
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Warm engine up to operating temperature (the radiator cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn ignition
off. 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.
Measure the resistance between the two terminals at the ECT.
Resistance should measure roughly 200-400 ohms. If resistance is outside range replace the ECT.
NOTE: If the ECT tests ok but symptom or DTC indication persist see DTC troubleshooting for DTC
6.
Specifications
Air/Fuel Mixture: Specifications
IDLE MIXTURE:
Idle CO ................................................................................................................................................
................................................................. 0.1%
Page 281
Fig. 40 Set/resume Switch Steering Wheel Location Test. W/Air Bag
7. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 40. 8. If there is no continuity
in any position, replace set/resume switch. 9. If there is continuity in every switch position, replace
cable reel.
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 5482
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4031
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Distributes secondary voltage from the coil to the correct sparkplug wire and sparkplug.
^ Houses the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
OPERATION
The Distributor, rotating at camshaft speed, allows the secondary voltage to flow from the coil wire
through the cap/rotor to the correct sparkplug wire and plug. It then continually advances the rotor
to align with the next sparkplug wire and plug. It also allows the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor to
accurately Inform the Programmed Ignition Electronic Control Module (PGM-IG ECM) of the
relative positions of the crank, cam and pistons.
Page 3073
^ Install the vibration damper on the disc, and install the protective band around the wheel lug nuts.
^ Mount the lathe to the caliper bracket with Honda Quick-Mount Adapters. The adapters can be
ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program; contact Special Tools at 800-346-6327.
The advantage of using the adapters is that they don't have to be removed from the lathe once
they are installed.
Page 4630
3. Clean the inside of the fuel fill door behind the stiffener with 3M General Purpose Adhesive
Cleaner, 3M P/N 051135-08984.
4. Install the shim between the door stiffener and the door. Place the shim between the legs of the
spring tab.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
separately from hose. If MAP sensor still does not hold vacuum, replace MAP sensor).
3. Install a tee fitting in line with hose #21 from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. Start engine
and run at idle, measure vacuum. Vacuum should
4. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between PGM-FI ECM and harness connector. Turn
ignition switch on.
5. Measure voltage between terminal D17 (+) and terminal D21 (-). Voltage should read 3.0 volts (if
not, replace MAP sensor). 6. Start engine and run at idle. Voltage should now read 1.0 volt (if not,
replace MAP sensor). If voltage tests OK but DTC indication/symptom still
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 4397
Page 3964
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Page 4522
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Locations
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Specifications
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 591
18. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the special tool from the rear actuator, and install the cap
bolt and the new sealing washer on the rear
actuator.
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system. 3. Snap open cable clip, then
disconnect heater valve cable from heater valve. 4. Disconnect heater hoses at heater, then
remove two heater unit mounting nuts from engine compartment side. 5. Remove instrument panel
as described in Dash Panel Service section. 6. Remove heat duct or evaporator. 7. Remove two
heater mounting bolts, then the heater assembly.
8. Remove heater assembly and defroster duct, Fig. 19. 9. Remove pipe clamp and core clamp
attaching screws.
10. Pull heater core from heater housing. Ensure care is taken not to bend inlet and outlet pipes
during removal. 11. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Do not interchange inlet and outlet hoses. b. Connect all cables and ensure they are properly
adjusted.
12. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
NOTE: -
- Take care not to bend the cable when removing the actuator. Always replace a kinked cable with
a new one.
Locations
ball joint.
Insert the jaws carefully, making sure you do not damage the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing
by turning the pressure bolt.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
16. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then
hand- tighten the pressure bolt and recheck the jaws
17. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering
arm.
Warning: Wear eye protection. The ball joint can break loose suddenly and scatter dirt or other
debris in your eyes.
18. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of
the steering/suspension arm.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4987
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 2361
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 3144
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
13. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure the transmission shifts properly.
Disclaimer
Page 1920
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends
this information to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM contains memories for optimum EGR lift during various conditions. It reads
actual EGR position from the lift sensor. The sensor uses a plunger operated potentiometer
supplying a signal to the PGM-FI ECM. If the EGR actual position differs from it's preferred
position, the PGM-FI ECM cuts control solenoid power to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Page 4113
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 4591
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Locations
The cleaning procedure involves hot fluid under high pressure. Check the security of all hoses and
connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. If you get
ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately.
Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries.
Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow all instructions in this bulletin.
1. Plug the ATF cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet.
NOTICE
Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged
into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light cord; you would
damage the unit.
2. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating
temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to
150°F.)
Page 365
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5828
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 230
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
After servicing a hose, check for leaks before and after test driving the vehicle.
- Always use the correct size hose. Do not use standard sized hose in place of metric hose or vice
versa.
Always use the correct type of hose. Never use vacuum hose in place of fuel hose. Never use
heater hose in place of PCV hose.
- When replacing hoses which are attached to the engine on one end and the frame or body on the
other end, always leave sufficient length to compensate for engine movement (from torque).
Page 1629
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Warm engine up to operating temperature (the radiator cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn ignition
off. 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.
Measure the resistance between the two terminals at the ECT.
Resistance should measure roughly 200-400 ohms. If resistance is outside range replace the ECT.
NOTE: If the ECT tests ok but symptom or DTC indication persist see DTC troubleshooting for DTC
6.
Page 651
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Locations
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 773
1. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the timing belt upper
cover. 4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 5. Remove the timing belt lower cover. 6. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 7. Inspect the timing balancer belt for cracks and oil soaking.
NOTE: -
"Front End Alignment" refers to the angular relationship between the front wheels, the front
suspension attaching parts and the ground. Proper front end alignment must be maintained in
order to insure efficient steering, good directional stability and to prevent abnormal tire wear. The
most important factors of front end alignment are wheel toe-in, wheel camber and axle caster.
CAMBER:
Camber is the vertical tilting inward or outward of the front wheels. When the wheels tilt outward at
the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is negative
(-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle (1). If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
CASTER:
This illustration shows view from the side of the vehicle. Caster (1) is the vertical tilting of the wheel
axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is
positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the short and long arm type suspension you cannot
see a caster angle without a special instrument, but if you look straight down from the top of the
upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle
other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle, the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead
(toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint center line.
Page 2780
4. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
5. *Remove the outboard joint using the threaded adapter (see REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS) and
a commercially available 5/8" x 18 slide hammer.*
6. Remove and discard the "C" clip from the driveshaft. Clean and inspect the driveshaft splines
and ring groove for burrs or other defects.
7. Install the new outboard joint boot provided in the kit. Slide it slowly onto the driveshaft to avoid
damaging the boot.
8. Install the new "C" clip onto the ring groove of the driveshaft.
9. Insert the driveshaft in the new outboard joint. Make sure the "C" clip is centered on the shaft
and is resting against the chamfered edge of the inner race.
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 2351
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
1. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the timing belt upper
cover. 4. Inspect the timing belt for cracks and oil soaking.
NOTE: -
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3730
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Alpine of America by authorized Honda Dealers only.
Send a completed order form (found in Parts Information Bulletin A91 -0031) along with a dealer
check for $59.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this address:
Procedure 2
NOTE:
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
Page 2830
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque
specification then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut
by
loosening.
38. Install the knuckle on the lower arm and the tie-rod, then tighten the castle nuts and install new
cotter pins. 39. Install the knuckle on the upper arm, then tighten the castle nut and install a new
cotter pin.
41. Install the speed sensor with the sensor mounting bolts.
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 1523
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection
1. Check No. 13 (10A) fuse in under dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Ensure ignition switch is
in Off position, then disconnect red or yellow/green wire from coolant temperature sending unit and
ground it with a
jumper wire.
3. Turn ignition switch to On position. 4. Check as needle of coolant temperature gauge starts
moving toward H mark. Turn ignition switch to Off position before pointer reaches H
a. Blown fuse in under dash fuse/relay box. b. Open in yellow/green wire, yellow or red wire. c. If
fuse and wiring are satisfactory, replace coolant temperature gauge.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
INSPECTION
1. Remove the cover of the Fast Idle Thermo Valve. 2. Start the engine.
3. With cold engine (engine coolant temperature below 30°C [86°F] ). Use your finger and cover
the valve seat area making sure there is air flow or
suction with the engine cold. If there is no air flow or suction replace the Fast Idle Thermo Valve
and retest.
4. Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature (the cooling fan comes on). 5. Again using
your finger at the valve seat area check that the Fast Idle Thermo Valve is completely closed. If any
air flow or suction can be felt the
valve is leaking. Replace the Fast Idle Thermo Valve and retest.
NOTE: Do not attempt to disassemble the Fast Idle Thermo Valve, it is factory adjusted.
Page 1671
INSPECTION
1. Turn Ignition switch off. Connect the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and
2. Connect a jumper wire between terminal A6 and terminal A26. 3. Turn ignition switch on.
Immediately measure voltage between terminals D14 (+) and A26 (-) as soon as ignition switch is
turned on. Voltage
should start at 0.4 - 0.5 volts when switch is first turned on, then decrease to below 0.1 volts in less
than two minutes.
4. If initial voltage is 0.1 volt or less, disconnect the four pin connector from the Heated Oxygen
Sensor (HO2S).
^ If voltage now reads 1.0 volt or less substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
^ If components test OK, check for opens or shorts in WHITE wire between PGM-FI ECM terminal
D14 and HO2S four pin connector, also GREEN/WHITE wire between PGM-FI ECM terminal D22
and HO2S four pin connector.
Page 5118
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 4844
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1422
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Specifications
EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve: Specifications
EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 5487
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Locations
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5298
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4352
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5218
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Locations
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 326
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 3764
Fuse Details Schematics
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Page 3298
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is an internal problem with the battery. Replace it.
11. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the analyzer. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
NOTE:
^ Use the GR8 diagnostic mode when the ED-18 indicates GR8 DIAGNOSTIC NEEDED.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual;
besides the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online.
Select GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
Page 2614
1. Remove the mounting bolts and shift control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the shift control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the shift control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an assembly, if
necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the shift control solenoid valve
assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it
securely.
Page 3195
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Disassembly and Assembly
Do not disassemble brake booster; if replacement is required, replace entire booster assembly.
Page 2234
PURPOSE
Located in the exhaust stream, the Three-way Catalytic Converter (TWC) is used to remove up to
90% of all three major emissions (HC, CO, and NOx)
OPERATION
The Catalytic Converter consists of a metal housing, a ceramic grid substrate, and a catalytic
coating of platinum and rhodium. Active metal content is about 2 grams of platinum/rhodium. As
exhaust gas containing HC and CO passes through the converter, the platinum catalyst starts an
oxidation (burning) process. HC and CO then unite with oxygen to form water vapor and carbon
dioxide. This oxidation process has no effect on NOx emissions. To reduce NOx, a separate
reduction reaction is necessary. A reduction reaction is the removal of oxygen from a material. In
three-way converters, rhodium is used as a catalyst to break down NOx into nitrogen and oxygen.
The effective conversion of pollutants begins at about 250°C (480°F). Complete catalytic reactions
depend on fuel mixture staying within a narrow range (14.7:1 ± 1%). This is achieved with a
properly functioning oxygen sensor system.
NOTE:
Ideal operating temperature for maximum conversion and long service life is 750°F - 1500°F
(400°C - 800°C). Engine malfunctions (misfires, etc.) can cause converter temperature to rise
above 2500°F (1400°C). Such temperatures can lead to converter destruction by melting the
substrate material.
NOTE:
DO NOT use leaded fuel except in emergencies. It will permanently render the converter
ineffective. Lead compounds deposited in the pores and on the surface of the active material
reduce or eliminate exposure to exhaust gasses. Excessive engine oil residues can also ruin the
catalyst.
Page 3291
Make sure this communications port number matches the COMM number on the update. If it does
not, change the number on the update.
13. Click on Start to begin the update, which takes about a minute. A progress bar appears. Wait
until you get a message indicating the update was
successful.
NOTE:
^ If the clamps come off the battery, or the R8232 interface cable comes loose, turn the ED-18 off,
then back on. When the logon screen appears on the ED-18, click on Start to restart the update.
^ If the error message Flash not erased appears, replace the AA batteries in the ED-18, and try the
update again.
Parking Brake With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 13
to the brake system indicator light. When you apply the parking brake, the switch closes and
provides a ground for the light. The light comes ON to remind the driver that the parking brake is
applied.
Brake Fluid Level With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse
13 to the brake system indicator light. If the brake fluid level is low, the brake fluid level switch
closes, providing ground to the circuit. The brake system indicator light comes ON, alerting the
driver to a low brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder. (Check brake pad wear before adding
fluid.)
Bulb Check With the ignition switch in START (III), and the clutch pedal depressed or A/T gear
selector in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N), voltage is applied through fuse 2 to the bulb check circuit.
The bulb check circuit closes, allowing current to flow through the brake system indicator light and
bulb check circuit to ground. The brake system indicator light comes ON to test the bulb.
Page 4617
3. Cut a 6.5 x 2.5 inch strip of EPT Sealer 10T, and attach it to the back and sides of the door lock
control unit.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Off ice. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 5635
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Locations
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal D12 (+) and terminal D22 (-).
^ With no vacuum applied to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, voltage should read
approx. 1.2 volts.
^ With 8 in. hg. of vacuum applied to the EGR Valve, voltage should read approx. 4.3 volts.
3. If voltage is not read or voltage reading does not change when vacuum is applied to the EGR
Valve, replace the EGR Valve and Lift Sensor
assembly.
Page 1722
INSPECTION
1. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Turn the ignition switch
on. 2. Measure the voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW terminal and the BLACK terminal on the
harness side of the connector. Voltage should read
approx. 5.0 volts. (If not, inspect no. 23 fuse (15A) in under dash fuse box).
3. Reconnect the three pin connector. Block rear wheels. Set park brake. Raise front of car and
support with safety stands. 4. Carefully back probe the ORANGE wire and connect it to chassis
ground THROUGH A VOLTMETER. 5. Block right front wheel. Slowly rotate left front wheel by
hand. Voltage should pulse between 12.0 volts and 0.0 volts. If voltage does not pulse,
replace VSS.
Testing and Inspection
4. Remove the two bolts, nut and blower unit. 5. Install in the reverse order of removal, and make
sure there are no air leaks.
Page 3115
WARNING: The accumulator contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do not puncture, expose to
flame or attempt to disassemble the accumulator
or it may explode.
1. Secure accumulator in a vise with relief plug pointing straight up, Fig. 84. 2. Slowly turn plug 3
1/2 turns and wait three minutes for all pressure to escape. 3. Remove plug completely and
dispose of accumulator unit.
Page 4050
Before reassembly, make sure that the air doors and linkage move smoothly without binding.
- When reattaching the recirculation control motor, make sure its positioning will not allow the air
doors to be pulled too far. Attach the recirculation control motor and all linkage, then apply battery
voltage and watch the movement of the doors. If necessary, loosen the holding screw and move
the recirculation control motor up or down.
Page 3861
9. With weight of vehicle supported by damper, tighten damper fork retaining bolt, damper fork
pinch bolt and shock absorber base nuts to
specifications.
A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air
Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows
Hot Air
NOTE:
This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle
in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just
be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm.
There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm.
Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058),
and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off.
Page 824
Power Steering Fluid: Fluid Type Specifications
Fluid Type ............................................................................................................................................
....................... Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid
Always use Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or
automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather.
Page 484
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 3728
9. Turn the Mode Selector to 3, 4, and 5. Perform step 8 for each of the test mode positions. 10.
Refill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap.
WARNING: Disconnect the ALB Checker before driving the car. A collision can result from a
reduction or complete loss of braking ability, causing severe personal injury or death.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
NOTE: The reservoir on the master cylinder must be full at the start of bleeding procedure, and
checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake
fluid.
1. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
2. Loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed
screw securely.
Page 3190
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Check Valve Test
1. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose at booster. 2. Start engine and allow to idle. 3. Vacuum
should be indicated, if not, check valve is faulty. 4. Replace check valve and retest.
Page 4183
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 3828
Ball Joint: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut .............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.... 40
Page 706
7. Reconnect the two pin connector on the IAC, then remove the CLOCK/RADIO fuse in the
under-hood relay box for 10 seconds to reset the
PGM-FI ECM.
8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed.
9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (high beams on) and rear defogger ON, check idle
speed.
3. Remove oil pan attaching bolts and nuts, then the oil pan.
4. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten retaining bolts to specification in cross pattern, moving
outward from center.
Page 4592
Body Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 557
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch sends a signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to increase idle speed when the demand for power
steering causes the idle to drop.
OPERATION
When the power steering is operated a signal is sent to the PGM-FI ECM which then commands
the Idle Air Control Valve to raise the idle speed compensating for the increased engine load.
Page 4821
5. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following: a. Lubricate camshaft assembly prior to
installation. b. Tighten each bearing cap bolt two turns at a time in a criss-cross fashion starting
with center two caps and working outward, tighten to
specification.
c. After camshaft and rocker arms are installed, install new camshaft seal with spring side (open
side) facing in, using suitable seal installation
tool.
6. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system,
refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Page 2359
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
SYMPTOM
A rattle from the rear headliner when the car is driven on a rough road.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Vibration of the ceiling light/sunroof/high-mount brake light wiring harness against the rear
headliner.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994-95: - ALL
REQUIRED MATERIALS
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Apply EPT Sealer 5T to the rear headliner, where it contacts the wiring harness. Be careful not to
scratch or damage the headliner or other interior trim parts.
1. On cars with a high-mount brake light, remove the brake light cover.
Service and Repair
WARNING:
^ Never use an air hose or dry brush to clean brake assemblies.
1. Block the front wheels, loosen the rear wheel lug. nuts slightly, support the rear of car on safety
stands, then remove the rear wheels. Release the
parking brake.
Caliper Removal
3. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper from the bracket.
CAUTION:
^ Thoroughly clean the outside of the caliper to prevent dust and dirt from entering inside.
^ Support the caliper with a piece of wire so that it does not hang from the brake hose.
4. Remove the pad shims, pads and pad retainers. 5. Using vernier calipers, measure the
thickness of each brake pad lining. If lining thickness is less than service limit, replace the rear
pads as a set.
6. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves or cracks.
Page 4586
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
(Axle) Spindle Nut Torque: ..................................................................................................................
................................................ 181 ft.lbs. (250 Nm)
Page 5505
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Service and Repair
Windshield Washer Pump: Service and Repair
1. Remove front bumper, then disconnect washer hose and 2-P connectors from front and rear
washer motors. 2. Remove three mounting bolts and washer reservoir. 3. Reverse procedure to
install.
Page 1599
INSPECTION
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
Page 3646
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 212
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 478
Throttle Cable
PURPOSE
The throttle cable connects the accelerator pedal to the throttle body and controls throttle valve
opening to control engine rpm.
OPERATION
When the driver applies pressure to the accelerator pedal and the pedal moves, the Throttle Cable
moves in relation to the pedal. The cable then moves the throttle valve inside of the throttle body,
allowing a greater amount of air into the engine.
Page 5091
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve. The EGR Valve
is located at the right corner of the intake manifold near the ignition distributor.
Page 98
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 3895
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque
specification then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut
by
loosening.
38. Install the knuckle on the lower arm and the tie-rod, then tighten the castle nuts and install new
cotter pins. 39. Install the knuckle on the upper arm, then tighten the castle nut and install a new
cotter pin.
41. Install the speed sensor with the sensor mounting bolts.
The Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor, built into the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), senses changes in altitude so that ignition timing and fuel delivery
can be adjusted to maintain consistent engine performance.
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM supplies a 5.0 volt signal and a ground to the sensor. Changes in the pressure
differential between the sealed cavity and the atmosphere cause the silicon to flex. The flexing of
the silicon generates a small voltage which is amplified by the support circuitry and used to modify
the fixed 5.0 volt signal supplied by the PGM-FI ECM. The modified signal is then read by the
PGM-FI ECM.
Locations
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 5446
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 1688
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Service and Repair
NOTE:The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
Refer to the TSB listed below for information on how to obtain the code in the event the customer
does not have the code.
TSB # 98-026
BACKGROUND
This service bulletin describes where to attach the audio unit anti-theft labels that come in the glove
box of vehicles equipped with anti-theft audio systems.
If a vehicle has an anti-theft audio system, there are three peel-off labels in the glove box. Two of
the labels have both the anti-theft code and the audio unit's serial number, and a third label
contains only the serial number for the audio unit.
During Pre Delivery Inspection, stick the label with only the serial number on the glove box. If the
radio code ever needs to be retrieved through the HONDANET 2000 system, this will save you the
time and labor of removing the audio unit to record the serial number.
NOTES:
- Also perform this procedure when installing an accessory audio unit that is equipped with an
anti-theft system.
- If a remanufactured audio unit is installed in a vehicle, remove the old labels and install new ones
on the glove box, Radio Identification Card, and the vehicle's service records.
- If the glove box is ever replaced, transfer the labels from the old glove box to the new one.
PROCEDURE
Page 3659
11. Clean any dirt or grease off the ball joint. 12. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas
shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads.
13. Remove the cotter pin from the steering arm and remove the nut. 14. Install a 12 mm hex nut
on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the
threaded end of the
ball joint.
Insert the jaws carefully, making sure you do not damage the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing
by turning the pressure bolt.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
16. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then
hand- tighten the pressure bolt and recheck the jaws
17. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering
arm.
Warning: Wear eye protection. The ball joint can break loose suddenly and scatter dirt or other
debris in your eyes.
18. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of
the steering/suspension arm.
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor, mounted on the intake manifold facing the firewall on the
driver's side, provides a signal used by the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) to determine intake air temperature for mixture control.
OPERATION
The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the air intake temperature increases. The PGM-FI
ECM uses this decreasing resistance to adjust the length of injector opening time.
Page 4723
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the
transmitter's code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash
after each transmitter code is accepted.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 2280
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal D12 (+) and terminal D22 (-).
^ With no vacuum applied to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, voltage should read
approx. 1.2 volts.
^ With 8 in. hg. of vacuum applied to the EGR Valve, voltage should read approx. 4.3 volts.
3. If voltage is not read or voltage reading does not change when vacuum is applied to the EGR
Valve, replace the EGR Valve and Lift Sensor
assembly.
Locations
The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Canister Purge Control Valve is located on top
of the EVAP Control Canister near the right front strut tower.
Page 325
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 1208
Fuse Details Schematics
The Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch sends a signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to increase idle speed when the demand for power
steering causes the idle to drop.
OPERATION
When the power steering is operated a signal is sent to the PGM-FI ECM which then commands
the Idle Air Control Valve to raise the idle speed compensating for the increased engine load.
Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open
Fuel Door: Customer Interest Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open
MODEL: [NEW] 1994 ACCORD 1992-95 CIVIC (Except del Sol) 1993-94 PRELUDE
Fuel Fill Door Does Not Open (Supersedes 94-020, dated June 24, 1994)
PROBLEM
The fuel fill door does not open far enough to clear the body.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Wagon -ALL
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Align the fuel fill door, and install a spring boot or shim (see PARTS INFORMATION).
1. Check the gap between the fuel fill door and the opening in the quarter panel.
Page 4792
2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
PURPOSE
The ECM illuminates the "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" any time a problem is detected the
PGM-FI Computer. This warning is the first indication to the driver there is a problem in the system.
LOCATION
OPERATION
If a problem is detected in any of the monitored systems, this light is the primary means of notifying
the driver that a problem exists. The ECM also stores a trouble code in erasable memory.
Page 4305
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 3. Remove SRS unit left and right covers
from SRS unit. 4. Disconnect SRS control unit connector. 5. Remove four SRS control unit
mounting bolts, then control unit from vehicle. 6. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition switch in
On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
7. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 1829
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition off 2. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
3. With cold engine measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the Sensor. Resistance
should measure 0.4 - 4.0 k ohms depending on ambient
4. If resistance is out of range replace Intake Air Temp Sensor. 5. To check power to sensor, turn
key to Ign. position, measure voltage between RED/YELLOW terminal at connector and body
ground. Also test
between RED/YELLOW terminal and GREEN/WHITE terminal. Each reading should be approx. 5.0
volts.
Page 5503
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 1959
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Locations
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Page 3810
Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal, inspection, or replacement.
CAUTION: Improper handling or storage can internally damage the airbag assembly, making it
inoperative. If you suspect the airbag assembly has been damaged, install a new unit, and refer to
the Deployment/Disposal Procedures (see "Damaged Airbag Special Procedure") for disposing of
the damaged airbag.
Page 5193
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 4829
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4189
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Special care is necessary when handling and storing a live (undeployed) air bag assembly. The
rapid gas generation produced during deployment of the air bag could cause the air bag assembly,
or an object in front of the air bag assembly, to be thrown through the air in the unlikely event of an
accidental deployment.
In situations which require deployment of a live air bag assembly, deployment may be
accomplished inside or outside the vehicle. The method employed
Page 1576
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral
7. After adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 5508
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
In the power steering unit, the method used to direct a single source of fluid pressure in either of
two directions (for left or right turns) involves the pinion gear transferring a "message" of direction
to the fluid in the 4-way valve.
The pinion is mounted slightly off-center in a pair of bearings, which are in turn mounted in a pinion
holder cylinder that rotates, centered in its own outer bearings. At the bottom of the Pinion Holder is
a pin, which fits in a slot in the 4-way valve.
As the pinion is turned (to turn left or right), because it is off-center, it also moves slightly along the
rack. This movement is transferred to the holder. The pin in the holder then moves the 4-way valve,
to direct fluid pressure to either side of the rack in the power cylinder.
The back edges of the pinion holder (facing away from the rack) hit the stops cast into both sides of
the gear housing to avoid pushing the 4-way valve too far in either direction. The front edge of the
pinion holder cuts off assist at full lock as described on the next page.
Page 3300
6. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the GR8 result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
10. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
Page 4046
Blower Motor: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied through fuse 35 to the blower motor relay contacts at all times. With the
ignition switch in ON (II) voltage is applied to the coil of the blower motor relay through fuse 9, and
the relay energizes, providing power to the blower motor. The blower motor ground path is
completed when the heater fan switch is turned to positions A, B, or C. The ground path includes
one or more of the blower motor resistors. As you move the switch from A through C, resistors are
bypassed. Decreasing the resistance increases the voltage across the blower motor. This
increases the blower motor speed. When you move the heater fan switch to the D position, all of
the resistors are bypassed and the blower motor runs at full speed.
Page 908
Fuse Block: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Under Hood Fuse / Relay Box
Page 5399
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 5112
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 1708
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 3924
H/C 3251550
Defect code: 045
1. Disarm Radio Coded Theft Protection System, as outlined under Vehicle Damage Warnings.
Disable airbag system as outlined under Technician
Safety Information.
2. Disconnect both battery cables. 3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels.
4. Disconnect tie rod ends using ball joint remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent. 5.
Remove self-locking nuts connecting exhaust pipe to three way catalytic converter and exhaust
pipe to exhaust manifold. 6. Disconnect heated oxygen sensor connector, then the exhaust pipe. 7.
On models equipped with automatic transaxle, remove shift cable holder, then disconnect shift
control cable at control shaft. 8. Remove center beam and steering gear splash shield. 9. Clean dirt
from control unit and fluid line connections, then disconnect lines from control unit. Plug or seal
pipes to prevent contamination.
10. On models equipped with 4 wheel steering, remove sub steering angle sensor cover from
sensor, then disconnect sensor electrical connector.
Use care when cutting wire tie from cover to prevent cutting into wire harness.
11. Lock steering shaft with ignition key to keep steering shaft position. 12. Disconnect steering
joint from steering gear and move joint toward column. 13. Remove left mounting bracket, then the
right. 14. Remove left tie rod end, then slide rack completely to right. 15. Pull steering gear down to
clear pinion shaft from bulkhead. 16. Move steering gear to the right so left rack end clears rear
beam. 17. Move steering gear to left and tilt left side down, then remove steering gear from vehicle.
18. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten fasteners to specifications.
Rear
Prior to removing steering gear on models with power steering, proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect fluid return hose from pump reservoir and place end of hose in suitable container. 3.
Start engine, then turn steering wheel from lock to lock several times. 3. When fluid stops running
from hose, stop engine. 4. Reconnect hose to pump. 5. After installing gear, fill reservoir and bleed
air from system by starting engine, then turning steering wheel from lock to lock several times. Fill
reservoir as needed.
REPLACEMENT
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove cap bolt from gear box.
2. Install steering lock pin in gear box. With engine Off, the steering gear is held in Neutral position
by the return spring tension. The lock pin can only be installed when the steering gear is in Neutral
position. Do not start engine with lock pin set in steering gear.
3. Remove cotter pin and nut from tie rod ends, then remove tie rods using suitable puller.
4. Remove steering gear cover, then disconnect electrical connectors and ground wire.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 2475
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is mounted inside the distributor housing and is not serviced
separately.
Specifications
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Specifications
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR (MAP)
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Specifications
Two-Way Valve: Specifications
TWO-WAY VALVE:
Open.....................................................................................................................................................
........ VACUUM 5 to 15 mmHg (.2 to .6 in.Hg)
Open.....................................................................................................................................................
PRESSURE 10 to 35 mmHg (0.4 to 1.4 in.Hg)
Page 3499
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition off 2. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
3. With cold engine measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the Sensor. Resistance
should measure 0.4 - 4.0 k ohms depending on ambient
4. If resistance is out of range replace Intake Air Temp Sensor. 5. To check power to sensor, turn
key to Ign. position, measure voltage between RED/YELLOW terminal at connector and body
ground. Also test
between RED/YELLOW terminal and GREEN/WHITE terminal. Each reading should be approx. 5.0
volts.
Page 1925
PURPOSE
The Electrical Load Detector (ELD), mounted in the under-hood relay box, senses the total
amperage draw placed on the electrical system.
OPERATION
The ELD sends a voltage reference to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) which then determines and controls the charge rate of the alternator.
Page 2208
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3939
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
Page 1419
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 3025
at any point, the knuckle is most likely distorted and should be replaced. Air gap should be
0.016-0.039 inches.
1. With ignition switch off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
2. Raise and support vehicle so all four wheels are off ground. 3. Turn ignition switch to on position,
then turn mode selector switch on anti-lock brake checker to 0. 4. With transaxle in Neutral
position, rotate each wheel at least one revolution per second and confirm that its respective
monitor light on the checker
blinks as wheel is rotating. Rotating wheel too slowly will produce only weak blinks of monitor
lights. Perform tests in shaded area, as monitor lights may be difficult to see in bright sunlight. If the
front wheels won't spin fast enough to get monitor indication, start engine and slowly accelerate
and decelerate front wheels.
5. If any monitor light fails to blink, check the suspected sensor, its air gap, wiring and connectors.
Page 5184
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1575
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5569
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Ball Joint Removal and Installation Tools
Ball Joint: Technical Service Bulletins Ball Joint Removal and Installation Tools
99-061
Applies To: 1994-99 Accord - ALL 1992-99 Prelude - ALL 1995-98 Odyssey - ALL
The special tools required to remove and install lower ball joints on certain Honda vehicles are now
available from American Honda through normal parts ordering procedures.
Refer to Service Bulletin 99-039, Safety Recall: Lower Ball Joints, for lower ball joint removal and
installation instructions.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
2. Set No.1 piston to TDC. "UP" mark on the camshaft pulley should be at top and TDC grooves on
the camshaft pulley should align with the
3. Adjust valves on No.1 cylinder. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw until the feeler
gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of
drag.
SPECS:
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Page 4846
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 4737
Programming the Transmitter
1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren
then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you
wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait
more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the
system exits the programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Page 5340
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 2662
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Page 606
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 15. 3. Adjust pedal height if necessary or replace
switch if defective.
Page 4374
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
21. Use the bail joint remover to separate the ball joint and lower arm.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
22. Remove the knuckle protector. 23. Remove the cotter pin and the upper ball joint nut. 24. Install
a 10 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the
threaded section of the ball joint pin
25. Use the ball joint remover to separate the ball joint and knuckle.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
26. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle using a
plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 4530
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends
this information to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM contains memories for optimum EGR lift during various conditions. It reads
actual EGR position from the lift sensor. The sensor uses a plunger operated potentiometer
supplying a signal to the PGM-FI ECM. If the EGR actual position differs from it's preferred
position, the PGM-FI ECM cuts control solenoid power to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Page 73
- For testing at connectors other than the Test Harness, bring the Tester Probe into contact with the
terminal from the connector side of Wire Harness Connectors in the Engine Compartment. For
female connectors, just touch lightly with the Tester Probe and do not insert the probe.
Troubleshooting
INSPECTION
If, after Performing individual component tests, it is determined that the problem(s) may exist in the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), It will be necessary to
substitute the PGM-FI ECM with a known good PGM-FI ECM and retest as needed.
Page 2163
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 3287
*The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).*
^ Turn on the tester, and read the version number on the screen. It should appear for about 3
seconds.
^ Or, you can click on: Language > Options > Info > Version. The version number is located near
the top of the version screen.
1. Make sure the ED-18 is off, then detach the printer by using the hex wrench to remove the two
screws at the bottom of the printer. Pull the printer
straight out from the ED-18 to avoid damaging the connector terminals.
2. Connect the R8232 interface cable to the ED-18 where the printer was connected, then connect
the interface cable to your PC.
NOTE:
If your computer doesn't have an R8232 serial port, use the R8232 to USB adapter.
4. Online, go to
Page 2121
MAP Sensor Testing
2. Disconnect #21 vacuum hose from the throttle body and apply vacuum. It should hold vacuum (if
it does not hold vacuum, test MAP sensor
separately from hose. If MAP sensor still does not hold vacuum, replace MAP sensor).
3. Install a tee fitting in line with hose #21 from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. Start engine
and run at idle, measure vacuum. Vacuum should
4. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between PGM-FI ECM and harness connector. Turn
ignition switch on.
5. Measure voltage between terminal D17 (+) and terminal D21 (-). Voltage should read 3.0 volts (if
not, replace MAP sensor). 6. Start engine and run at idle. Voltage should now read 1.0 volt (if not,
replace MAP sensor). If voltage tests OK but DTC indication/symptom still
7. Reconnect the two pin connector on the IAC, then remove the CLOCK/RADIO fuse in the
under-hood relay box for 10 seconds to reset the
PGM-FI ECM.
8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed.
9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (high beams on) and rear defogger ON, check idle
speed.
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the front sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
15. Check that each sensor is electronically in neutral (see page 17-146).
NOTE: Be sure that the center of the range where the 4WS indicator light blinks (indicating that the
front sub steering angle sensor is electronically in neutral), is in the range ±18 mm (±O.7 in; ±5.5°)
from the center mark on the steering wheel.
16. Reconnect the connector and secure the sub steering angle sensor wire harness with the
clamp and install the cover.
NOTE: ^ Be sure the sensor wire harness does not interfere with the stabilizer or other moving
parts. ^ Be certain that the wire is not twisted before connecting it.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car.
2. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensor are in electrically neutral position,
when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed before
checking the electrically neutral position.
Locations
The Electrical Load Detector (ELD) is mounted in the under-hood relay box.
Interior - Warped Console
Applicable To ALL
Warped Console
PROBLEM
The front console is warped at the seam with the center console.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 86
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 211
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 1033
30. Press the wheel bearing out of the knuckle using a hydraulic press and the special tools shown
below.
31. Remove the outboard bearing inner race from the hub using the special tools shown and a
commercially available bearing separator.
NOTE: Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash-point solvent before reassembly.
32. Press a new wheel bearing into the hub using the special tools shown and a hydraulic press.
Page 3288
5. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
^ For ED18 version 1:
NOTE:
7. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the ED-18 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
8. You should see the image of your ED-18 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda ED-18 V2
Software Update link.
Page 2425
INSPECTION
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
Page 2138
Throttle Body With Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Adj. Screw Location.
Page 2495
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the
wires; you might break them inside.
Ignition Cable Inspection
1. Check the condition of the wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken
or distorted, replace the wire.
2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance. 3. If resistance exceeds 25 k ohms, replace
the ignition wire.
Page 479
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 421
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is mounted inside the distributor housing and is not serviced
separately.
Page 1833
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 5368
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 4141
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5023
Fuse Details Schematics
Evaporator Overhaul
1. Pull the A/C thermostat sensor out of the evaporator fins. 2. Remove the self4apping screws and
clips from the housing. 3. Carefully separate the housings and remove the evaporator. 4. Remove
the expansion valve if necessary.
NOTE: When loosening the expansion valve nuts, use a second wrench to hold the valve or
evaporator pipe or they can be cracked.
Replace 0-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (SP-1O: P/N
38899-P13-AO1) before installing them.
NOTE: Be sure to use the right 0-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
- Install the expansion valve capillary tube with the capillary tube in contact with the suction line
directly, and wrap it with tape.
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip in place.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from
American Honda.
If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 1701
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 3403
Power Distribution
Page 3297
the top of the analyzer's housing indicates the sensor's location.) When the measured temperature
on the display stabilizes, press Enter.
9. The analyzer displays the battery's current condition under RESULTS. The screen below shows
one of four possible battery conditions, the battery's
measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that
represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge, 85% of its capacity, and requires no
action.
^ GR8 Diagnostic Needed - The battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), and the
condition of the battery is unknown. Use the GR8 to charge the battery and properly diagnose it.
Page 1991
Emissions and Intake Air Control Component Circuits, Part 2 Of 2.
Page 846
3. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown above, until air bubbles no longer
appear in the fluid. 4. Check brake performance by road testing.
Locations
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 5806
August 7, 2001
Applies To: 1994-00 Accord - ALL with M/T 1992-01 Prelude - ALL with M/T
Fifth Gear Grinds During Upshift (Replaces 95-057, dated October 17, 2000)
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace 5th gear, the sleeve set, and the 5th shift fork.
PARTS INFORMATION
1994-97 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-PX5-307, H/C 4921607 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1998-00 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P0S-306, H/C 5614011 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1992-96 Prelude S
* Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465* 5th Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959
5th Gear: P/N 23581-P16-540, H/C 3940061 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959*
Page 4584
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 102
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Sunroof Close Relay
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 3624
When the car is moving at high speed, negative pressure develops at the sensor inlet because the
power steering speed sensor is pumping faster than the fluid can be supplied. To compensate for
this, the outlet and inlet ports are connected internally by a passage containing a one-way valve
that lets output fluid recirculate to the inlet port to equalize pressure.
T/N 07MAB-PY3010A
DOHC Prelude:
ALL:
NOTE:
This campaign ends January 1, 2003. After that date, warranty claims for installation of a retainer,
or repairs required due to a failed oil seal, will not be accepted.
Disclaimer
*A. If the technician found that an oil seal retainer had already been installed, file a warranty claim
with operation number 111008.
B. If the technician installed an oil seal retainer, file a warranty claim with operation number
111108.
C. If the technician replaced the oil seal because it was cocked or backed out, file a warranty claim
with operation number 111124. This includes replacing the timing belt and balancer belt if they are
contaminated with oil. This repair requires DSM approval.
Flat Rate Time
Accord - 2.5 hours Odyssey - 2.5 hours 1994-96 Prelude - 2.5 hours 1997 Prelude - 2.7 hours
D. If the technician replaced the engine because there was significant internal engine damage due
to extended driving after a complete loss of oil, file a warranty claim with operation number 111008
as the primary operation and 111099 as the secondary operation. Show actual repair time as the
FRT with 111099, and list all parts used. This repair requires DSM approval.
NOTE:
If a vehicle with engine damage has high mileage, the DSM may authorize the installation of a
reconditioned engine from an outside supplier rather than a new engine from Honda. In that case,
refer to section 6.4.1, Reimbursement for Non-Honda Parts, in the Service Operations Manual for
claim submission and credit guidelines.*
Repair Procedure
1. Make sure you have the audio system anti-theft code, if needed. Write down your customer's
radio station presets.
Removal
1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in proper
locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel.
4. Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut.
Page 5196
Seat Belt And Ignition Key Reminders
Page 5513
Brake Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Page 2590
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Page 3061
7. Make sure that the pad retainers are installed in the correct positions.
Brake Pad And Shim Installation
^ When reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent loss
of braking efficiency.
^ Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads.
NOTE:
^ Apply Molykote M77 to the pad side of the shims. Wipe excess grease off the shims.
^ Install the inner pad with its wear indicator facing upward.
9. Rotate the caliper piston clockwise into place in the cylinder, then align the cutout in the piston
with the tab on the inner pad by turning the piston
back.
CAUTION: Lubricate the boot with silicone grease to avoid twisting the piston boot. It piston boot is
twisted, back it out so it sits properly.
Airbag Handling and Storage
Steering Wheel: Service Precautions Airbag Handling and Storage
Do not disassemble the airbags. it has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of the airbag during service, please observe the following precautions.
WARNING: If the airbag is improperly stored face down, accidental deployment could propel the
unit with enough force to cause serious injury.
Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put any things on the removed airbag.
Keep free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water to prevent damage to the airbag.
Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200° F / 93° C).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2818
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 3850
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 308
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2309
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
- The brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of the modulator tank with a syringe. It may
also be drained through the pump joint after disconnecting the pump hose.
- Loosen the bleed screw and pump the brake pedal to drain the brake fluid from the master
cylinder.
WARNING: High-pressure fluid will squirt out if the shaded hose and pipe are removed.
Page 3460
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5506
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Ignition Lock: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Exacta Code Key Cutter
MODEL ALL
APPLICABLE TO ALL
The Exacta Code Key Cutter, Manufactured by IIco Unican Co. is available from American Honda
to meet your minimum key cutting requirements. For use and care, follow the manufacturer's
instructions included with the Code Key Cutter Base Kit.
PARTS INFORMATION
45-Degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 2942886, TIN 07JAB-001002A
47-Degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 2942555, T/N 07JAB-001001A
1994 Passport Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 4447587, P/N 07RAB-001030A
Note
For Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit contents, and model application, refer to the Application Chart.
ORDERING INFORMATION
^ The Exacta Code Key Cutter Base Kit and Accessory Kits are available from American Honda
using your normal parts ordering procedures. The kits will be shipped to you directly from the
manufacturer. If you need to order individual replacement parts, or if items are missing from your
shipment, contact IIco Unican Co. at (800) 334-1381, and ask for the American Honda sales
representative. Refer to the Application Chart for IIco Unican part numbers.
^ Key blanks do not come with the kits ordered from American Honda; refer to your Parts
Reference Guide for key blanks.
Page 5346
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 1200
Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 3792
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
00-073
Product Update: Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal (Supersedes 00-073, dated October 6, 2000)
BACKGROUND
The front balancer shaft oil seal may back out of the oil pump housing over time. If this happens,
the oil can be rapidly pumped out of the engine without warning, causing serious engine damage if
you continue to drive.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Page 4848
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 5356
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the
instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5
seconds of each other.)
7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work
repeat steps 2 thru 7.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the
previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all
transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed.
^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned
codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters.
Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter)
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.)
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and
open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle
once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
Page 5364
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 4119
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 5355
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
1. Make sure the drive motor assembly on the power drive system is level with the brake disc.
2. Attach the mounting yoke to the brake disc, and secure it with one of the wheel nuts. Torque the
wheel nut to the required specification (see the
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
Locations
As the car is driven, the rotors start turning and the fluid returns to the reservoir, reducing the fluid
pressure at the gain control valve. Therefore, the gain control valve begins to move to the right.
The orifice resistance on the pump and reservoir sides is appropriately balanced, with the result
that the reaction chamber is in the medium range and the steering resistance is moderate.
When the car is moving at high speed, the sensor reduces the pressure further and the gain control
valve moves further to the right. The orifice pressure on the pump side is low and the pressure on
the reservoir side is high, the fluid pressure in the reaction chamber is also high giving the steering
wheel less assist.
One-way Valve (In Power Steering Speed Sensor)
Page 3835
5. Remove the mounting bolts for the brake hose bracket. 6. Remove the caliper mounting bolts
and hang the caliper assembly to one side
CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece
of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage.
7. Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws. 8. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the disc to
push it away from the hub.
NOTE: Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
10. Remove the speed sensor wire bracket, then remove the speed sensor from the knuckle.
NOTE: -
- Use ball joint removers, to separate the ball joints from the suspension or steering arm.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5686
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 4574
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Locations
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1215
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 1711
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Photo 39
1. Disconnect the connector from the shift control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No.1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the shift control solenoid
valve connector and body ground and between
3. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4. If the
resistance is within the standard, connect the No. 1 terminal of the shift control solenoid valve
connector to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if no clicking
sound is heard.
Page 655
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
1. With engine at normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on) and at normal idle speed,
disconnect #16 hose from the EGR valve and
2. If vacuum exists, disconnect the two pin connector from the EGR Control Solenoid Valve and
recheck for vacuum at the #16 hose. There should
3. Turn ignition switch off, disconnect the two pin connector from the EGR Control Solenoid Valve.
Start the engine and allow it to run at idle. 4. Measure voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW (+)
terminal and chassis ground. Voltage should read battery voltage. 5. Connect battery voltage to the
A terminal of the EGR Control Solenoid Valve. while watching the vacuum gauge, ground the B
terminal of the
EGR Control Solenoid Valve. Vacuum should read approx. 8 in. hg. within 1 second. If no vacuum
exists: ^
Remove lower hose at EGR Control Solenoid Valve and verify vacuum from the EGR Vacuum
Control Valve.
^ If vacuum is present at lower hose but no vacuum exists when the EGR Control Solenoid Valve is
triggered, replace the EGR Control Solenoid Valve.
Page 5682
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 5304
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 5263
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 2350
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1435
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 673
Camber is the inward or outward tilting of the front wheels from the vertical. When the wheels tilt
outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is
negative (-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle. If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
Page 5563
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 630
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Page 4815
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Power Distribution
Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes
Compact Disc Player (CD): All Technical Service Bulletins Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer -
Error Codes
00-015
PURPOSE
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, located in the cylinder head just below the
distributor, delivers an electrical signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) allowing it to adjust the length of injector opening time required by the engine for
optimum performance at all engine temperatures.
OPERATION
As water temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The PGM-FI ECM receives sensor
information as resistance to ground. Coolant temperature information is used by the PGM-FI ECM
to determine proper fuel delivery.
Page 3566
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Page 4811
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Locations
Igniter: Locations
The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is located inside distributor assembly
Diagrams
Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information
Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information
00-088
(Supersedes 00-088, dated October 6, 2006, to revise the information marked with the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
American Honda does not allow replacement of brake discs under warranty unless the brake disc
is beyond its service limit for refinishing. If the brake disc is within its service limit, you must refinish
it. Maximum refinishing limits may be found in the Conventional Brakes section of the appropriate
service manual.
*Refinish brake discs only when they are scored or out of specification for runout or parallelism.
See the appropriate service manual for the specifications.*
American Honda requires refinishing of the front brake discs with an on-car brake lathe that mounts
to the steering knuckle. Use of an on-car, steering knuckle- mounted lathe is critical because it
corrects runout of the hub and disc as an assembly. Experience has shown that very small
amounts of runout, not felt as brake pulsation initially, will grow and become noticeable as the discs
are subjected to heat and wear over time and mileage. Two on-car brake lathes are recommended.
The Kwik-Lathe, model number KWY-108000501, is supported with automatic shipments of
adapters for new models, when required. The Accu-turn On-car Brake Lathe, model
ACCHONOCLPKG, is also recommended.
A power driver is required for the 82000 and is highly recommended for all other models. The
Kwik-Lathe power driver model number is KWY-108012005; the Accu-turn lathe includes a power
driver. Here are some advantages of using power drivers:
^ The disc is rotated at the optimum speed for a smooth and consistent cut.
^ There is no need to climb in and out of the vehicle to start and stop the engine or to shift the
transmission.
^ There is no waiting for the engine to return to idle and no concern about engine speed changes
that can adversely affect brake disc cut and finish.
ORDERING INFORMATION
Order brake lathes and power drivers through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To place
an order, call or use the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program
Catalog. Phone lines are open Monday thru Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Central Time. You
can also order online through the Interactive Network (iN). Click on Service, Tool and Equipment,
and then Online Catalog. Click on Alignment, Wheel, and Brake Equipment, and then On-Car
Brake Lathes.
The following guidelines show the Kwik-Way lathe setup, the Accu-turn lathe setup is similar.
Put the transmission in Neutral. If you are not using the power drive system, start the engine, and
let it warm up to its normal operating temperature so the idle speed will stabilize to its lowest rpm.
Page 4746
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA by authorized Honda Dealers only. Send
a completed order form,* (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer
Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.), to this
address:
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at
(800)852-4690, or Fax them at (310) 898-1029 (weekdays, from 8:30 A.M. thru 4:00 PM., PST).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your Dealership C.O.D. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
*On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
Procedure 5
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during the procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
wheel cover flashes when the system is in the programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. The parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's
code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. The parking lights flash after each
transmitter code is accepted.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 4741
Technical Service Bulletin # 96-046 Date: 961021
Keyless Entry - Transmitter Programming Information
Model ALL
This Service Bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering*,
and transmitter batteries. A transmitter quick reference guide is included.
Use this index to find the information for the vehicle you are working on.
Civic
1992-93 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 8
del Sol
1993 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 7
Accord
1991-93 EX Wagon 3
1991-93 LX Wagon 4
1994-97 EX Wagon 6
Prelude
1988-91 1
1995-97 EX 6
Passport
PARTS INFORMATION
Transmitter ordering information and battery part numbers are in each transmitter section.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 4037
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 5351
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 5679
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Locations
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
Knuckle/Hub
Removal
1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in proper
locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel.
4. Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut.
Page 2097
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral 7. After
adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 5404
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Locations
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 2444
Throttle Body: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the throttle stop screw, it is preset at the factory and cannot be
adjusted.
1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the charcoal canister from the throttle body; connect a vacuum
pump/gauge to the throttle body. 3. Allow the engine to idle and check that the gauge indicates no
vacuum. 4. Check that vacuum is indicated on the gauge when the throttle valve is opened slightly
from the idle position.
^ If the gauge indicates no vacuum, check the canister port. If the throttle body port is clogged,
clean it with carburetor spray cleaner.
5. Stop the engine and check that the throttle cable operates smoothly without binding or sticking.
6. If there are any abnormalities in the above steps, check the following:
^ Clearance between throttle stop screw and throttle lever at full close position.
7. Replace the throttle body if there is excessive play in the throttle valve shaft or if the shaft is
binding or sticking.
Page 2552
1. Disconnect the connector from the shift control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No.1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the shift control solenoid
valve connector and body ground and between
3. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4. If the
resistance is within the standard, connect the No. 1 terminal of the shift control solenoid valve
connector to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if no clicking
sound is heard.
Locations
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 1239
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
The low oil pressure indicator light works in two ways: it flashes continuously following a
momentary loss of engine oil pressure, or it goes ON and stays ON with a complete loss of engine
oil pressure.
When the engine first starts, before its oil pressure rises above 4.3 psi, voltage is applied to the
closed and grounded engine oil pressure switch and the light comes ON to test the bulb.
With the engine running, voltage is applied at the WHT/BLU wire of the integrated control unit. With
normal engine oil pressure, the engine oil pressure switch is open and the low oil pressure indicator
light does not come ON. If the engine oil pressure switch closes momentarily (more than 0.5
seconds) but then opens again, the YEL/RED wire at the integrated control unit will sense ground
through the switch. The integrated control unit will then provide and remove ground for the low oil
pressure indicator light through the YEL/RED wire. The light will flash ON and OFF until you turn
the ignition switch OFF. The flashing feature will not work until 30 seconds after initial voltage is
applied to the WHT/BLU wire of the oil pressure indicator flasher circuit. This delay keeps the low
oil pressure indicator light from coming ON during engine warmup.
If engine oil pressure falls below 4.3 psi and does not increase, the engine oil pressure switch will
stay closed. The low oil pressure indicator light will then come ON and stay ON.
Page 5090
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 202
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 363
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1971
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Specifications
Piston Ring: Specifications
Piston Diameter (Std.) .........................................................................................................................
............................................................................ [02] Piston Clearance .............................................
..................................................................................................................................... 0.0030-0.0012
inches Piston Pin Diameter .................................................................................................................
............................................................ 0.8659-0.8661 inches Piston Pin To Piston Clearance
............................................................................................................................................................
0.0050-0.0010 inches Piston Ring End Gap:
Comp. ..................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. [01] Oil ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................... 0.008-0.028 inches
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The
transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send
a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts
Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address:
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
4. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts and turn both tie-rods in the same direction until the front wheels are
in straight ahead position. 5. Turn both tie-rods equally until the toe is correct. 6. After adjusting,
tighten the tie-rod locknuts.
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
Page 383
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
INSPECTION
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
Page 575
3. Release the parking brake lever fully and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the
parking brake indicator light goes off. 4. Turn the ignition switch off.
Sub Steering Angle Sensor Adjustment
6. Remove the cap bolt and sealing washer from the rear actuator. Screw the special tool in as far
as it will go. 7. Remove the rear sub steering angle sensor wire from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
8. Loosen the angle sensor locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, then back it off about 1/2 turn
and connect the connector. 9. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position to prevent the
rear wheels from steering if the engine is started in error.
11. Turn the rear left wheel fully to the left by hand, then turn it slowly to the right to turn the 4W5
indicator light on (i.e. rear main steering angle
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 2162
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Description and Operation
Description
When cranking the engine, the air boost valve supplies additional air to the intake manifold to ease
engine starting.
Page 2206
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 158
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 10. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Page 5441
The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control Canister is located near the right front strut tower
Page 329
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 3018
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3543
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Page 5277
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Locations
NOTICE
12. Measure distance "A" (from the splines to the inner race of the joint). If the distance is more
than your measurement in Step 3, repeat Step 11.
13. When distance "A" equals your measurement in Step 3, the "C" clip should be seated in the
joint. Tap on the inner race with a plastic hammer to make sure the joint does not move on the
driveshaft.
14. Fit the small end of the boot into the boot groove on the driveshaft.
15. Install the small boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
16. Pack the outboard boot with the grease included in the kit. Pack the outboard joint with the
remaining grease, then fit the boot over the outboard joint.
17. Install the large boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
18. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly into the car. Refer to Section 16 of the appropriate service
manual.
Disclaimer
Page 5301
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 1068
Side Cover Removal
1. Remove the right side cover.
Disclaimer
Page 2949
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Page 3786
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 1000
Tires: Testing and Inspection Radial Tire Lead/Pull
"Lead/Pull" is vehicle deviation from a straight path, on a level road with no pressure on the
steering wheel. Lead is usually caused by:
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a car. An example of this is placement of the
belt. Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop a side force while rolling straight
down the road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone. The "Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction" chart
should be used to make sure that front wheel alignment is not mistaken for tire lead. Rear tires will
not cause lead/pull.
Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns
Constant Velocity Joint: All Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed
Turns
91-029
Clicking Noise While Turning (Supersedes 91-029, dated April 17, 1992)
SYMPTOM
A clicking noise is heard while making right or left turns at 10 mph or less.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
PARTS INFORMATION
DIAGNOSIS
(Driving method)
1. Drive the car in a circle in an open parking lot at approximately 10 mph with the brakes slightly
applied.
Locations
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 4500
INSPECTION
Page 3965
6. Remove the oil screen and the oil pump. 7. Remove the baffle plate.
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an
assembly, if necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control
solenoid valve assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil
and reconnect it securely.
Page 260
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Warm engine up to operating temperature (the radiator cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn ignition
off. 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.
Measure the resistance between the two terminals at the ECT.
Resistance should measure roughly 200-400 ohms. If resistance is outside range replace the ECT.
NOTE: If the ECT tests ok but symptom or DTC indication persist see DTC troubleshooting for DTC
6.
Page 3454
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4548
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Off ice. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
NOTICE
12. Measure distance "A" (from the splines to the inner race of the joint). If the distance is more
than your measurement in Step 3, repeat Step 11.
13. When distance "A" equals your measurement in Step 3, the "C" clip should be seated in the
joint. Tap on the inner race with a plastic hammer to make sure the joint does not move on the
driveshaft.
14. Fit the small end of the boot into the boot groove on the driveshaft.
15. Install the small boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
16. Pack the outboard boot with the grease included in the kit. Pack the outboard joint with the
remaining grease, then fit the boot over the outboard joint.
17. Install the large boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
18. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly into the car. Refer to Section 16 of the appropriate service
manual.
Disclaimer
Page 5094
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
2. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 41.
Page 5119
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5708
NOTE: Before adjusting the sub steering angle sensor, check that the front main steering angle
sensor is adjusted properly.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car. 2. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position.
3. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensors are in the electronic neutral
position when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed
before checking the electronic neutral position.
4. Set the parking brake lever and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the parking
brake indicator light turns on. 5. Turn the ignition switch off.
6. Cut the wire tie from the sub steering angle sensor cover, then remove the cover from the sub
steering angle sensor.
CAUTION: Use care when cutting the wire tie so as not to cut into the wire harness.
7. Remove the sub steering angle sensor wire harness from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
Photo 6
44. Install the brake caliper with the caliper mounting bolts. 45. Install the brake hose with the brake
hose mounting 46. Tighten the new spindle nut,
NOTE: Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and inside of the
wheel.
47. Install the wheel with the wheel nuts. 48. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if
necessary.
Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Air Cleaner, mounted on the right fender, traps dirt and other contaminants before they have a
chance to enter the engine.
OPERATION
Air is drawn through the air intake tube, filtered by the Air Cleaner, then passes through the air flow
tube into the air intake chamber and finally into the throttle body. There is also a resonator chamber
connected to the air intake tube which helps reduce airflow noise as air is drawn into the system.
Locations
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Locations
The Barometric Pressure Sensor (BARO) is built into the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and is not serviceable.
Page 678
Alignment: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Bearing End Play
Runout
Runout
Standard:
Steel Wheel: 0 - 1.0 mm (0 - 0.04 in) Aluminum Wheel: 0 - 0.7 mm (0 - 0.03 in)
Locations
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
4WS Control Unit
1. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the timing belt upper
cover. 4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 5. Remove the timing belt lower cover. 6. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 7. Inspect the timing balancer belt for cracks and oil soaking.
NOTE: -
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1438
Fans (With A/C) S Models
Page 4860
Mirror Defoggers- Canada
Page 2349
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 3463
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4440
Page 3562
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Page 3775
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5586
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4143
Condenser Fan: Testing and Inspection
Image 22-8
Page 1315
6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the side engine mount bracket stay B standard for
some types). 8. Remove the upper cover. 9. Remove the side engine mount.
10. Remove the dipstick and the pipe. 11. Remove the special bolt and the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the two rear bolts from the center beam to allow the engine to drop down and give
clearance to remove the lower cover.
12. Remove the timing belt adjuster rubber seal. Do not loosen the adjusting nut. 13. Remove the
lower cover.
Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Sensor voltage at operating temperature
At 3000 RPM........................................................................................................................................
............................................................0.5 Volts During deceleration from 3000 RPM.........................
...........................................................................................................................Below 0.5 Volts
Page 1804
3. Check that the rotor is still pointing toward the No. 1 cylinder, then align the index mark on the
housing with the index mark on the coupling. 4. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral
7. After adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 4328
4. Place the flat portion of the jaws over the tongue stopper, and squeeze until the vise-grip jaws
lock and deform the stopper shaft.
PARTS INFORMATION
Warranty Coverage:
Seat belts that fail to function properly during normal use are covered under warranty for the useful
life of the car.
^ Malfunction due to abuse, alteration, accidental damage or damage resulting from a collision or
misuse.
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Locations
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
CAUTION: ^ Take care not to distort the splash guard. ^ Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling
when pressed clear.
29. Remove the circlip and the splash guard from the knuckle.
Page 5591
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 4077
PAG oil, 120ml (use these numbers to order oil, but do not use them in the warranty claim:
Sanden - P/N 38897-P13-A01AH, H/C 5023627 Hadsys - P/N 38897-P0A-A01AH, H/C 5172663
Diagnosis Information
It there is normal pressure, or at least some pressure reading on the high side (some refrigerant in
the system), go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A.
Repair Procedure - A
2. Remove the condenser from the vehicle. (Refer to section 22 of the service manual.)
3. Add 10ml (113 oz.) of the proper PAG oil to the new condenser.
4. Install the new condenser with the new O-rings that came in the kit.
5. Evacuate and recharge the system with 650 g (23 oz.) of R-134a refrigerant.
6. Start the engine, run the air conditioner, and test the air temperature at the vents. If the system is
blowing warm air, troubleshoot and repair the system before continuing.
7. Go to REPAIR COMPLETION.
Repair Procedure - B
1. Remove the condenser from the vehicle. (Refer to section 22 of the service manual.)
2. Add 20ml (2/3 oz.) of the proper PAG oil to the new condenser.
3. Install the new condenser with the new 0-rings that came in the kit.
Page 3473
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
DISASSEMBLY
Page 3099
NOTE: Do not compress the spring under the spring cover.
10. Turn the shaft clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn to compress the adjusting spring B in the caliper body.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the inner components, do not turn the shaft more than 1/2 turn.
10. Turn the shaft clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn to compress the adjusting spring B in the caliper body.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the inner components, do not turn the shaft more than 1/2 turn.
11. Lower the locknuts fully and tighten the locknuts securely.
NOTE: Keep the locknuts in this position until you reinstall the circlip.
Page 223
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 4850
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 634
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Specifications
Lifter / Lash Adjuster: Specifications
Maximum Journal Runout ....................................................................................................................
.............................................................. 0.001 inches Camshaft Bearing Clearance ..........................
..........................................................................................................................................
0.002-0.004 inches Camshaft Endplay ................................................................................................
.................................................................................... 0.002-0.006 inches Rocker Arm Oil
Clearance ............................................................................................................................................
..................................... 0.003 inches
Specifications
Valve Seat: Specifications
Cylinder Head Warpage Limit ..............................................................................................................
............................................................. 0.002 inches Cylinder Head Minimum Thickness ..................
................................................................................................................................................. 3.935
inches Valve Guides:
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
................................ 0.0008-0.0018 inches Exhaust ...........................................................................
..................................................................................................... 0.0022-0.0031 inches
Valve Seats:
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................... 0.049-0.061 inches Exhaust ...........................................................................
......................................................................................................... 0.049-0.061 inches
Page 5111
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4722
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip in place.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from
American Honda.
If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 3126
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 1869
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5614
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3649
NOTE: Take care not to turn the front sub steering angle sensor.
14. Disconnect the front sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the front sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
15. Check that each sensor is electronically in neutral (see page 17-146).
NOTE: Be sure that the center of the range where the 4WS indicator light blinks (indicating that the
front sub steering angle sensor is electronically in neutral), is in the range ±18 mm (±O.7 in; ±5.5°)
from the center mark on the steering wheel.
16. Reconnect the connector and secure the sub steering angle sensor wire harness with the
clamp and install the cover.
NOTE: ^ Be sure the sensor wire harness does not interfere with the stabilizer or other moving
parts. ^ Be certain that the wire is not twisted before connecting it.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car.
2. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensor are in electrically neutral position,
when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed before
checking the electrically neutral position.
Page 4800
Power Locks: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 4730
Transmitter Identification
The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not
interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not
open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release
button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1
seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3772
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Locations
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 1536
Catalytic Converter: Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
When refilling cooling system, bleed cooling system to let out any trapped air.
1. Drain cooling system into suitable container. 2. Remove timing belt as outlined under Timing
Belt.
3. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump, Fig. 71. 4. Reverse procedure to
install. Tighten water pump attaching bolts to specifications.
Page 4507
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Diagnostic Procedures
If the inspection for a particular code requires the Test Harness, remove the right door sill molding
and the small cover on the right kick panel and pull the carpet back to expose the ECM. Unbolt the
ECM cover. Turn the Ignition Switch off and connect the Test Harness.
Check the system according to the procedures described for the appropriate code(s).
Page 4019
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 819
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Engine Oil Capacity
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
Specified viscosities:
Specified viscosities:
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 1990
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
NOTE:
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant:
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 2513
PURPOSE
The Ignition Control Module (ICM), located in the distributor assembly, triggers the Ignition Coil,
allowing stored energy to be released in the form of a high-tension pulse through the secondary
windings.
OPERATION
As the Programmed Ignition Electronic Control Module (PGM-IG ECM) computes a timing setting,
based on the signals from the various sensors, the value is converted into a control signal for the
ICM. The ICM interrupts the current in the ignition coil primary windings at the correct time, allowing
stored energy to be released in the form of a high-tension pulse through the secondary windings.
Page 3005
Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation
The main function section of the control unit performs calculations on the basis of the signals from
each speed sensor. It controls the operation of the anti-lock brake system by putting the solenoid
valves in the modulator unit into action for each front brake and for the two rear brakes. The
sub-function section gives driving signals to the pump motor and also gives self-diagnosis signals.
Page 2989
ABS Light: Service and Repair
ABS LAMP RESET PROCEDURE
- If all repairs have been completed, disconnect the ABS B2 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood
fuse/relay box for at least three (3) seconds to erase the ABS control unit's memory.
NOTE: The ABS control unit's memory will be erased if the connector is disconnected from the
ABS control unit or the ABS control unit is removed from the body.
Page 870
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 2204
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Locations
6. Remove the cap bolt and sealing washer from the rear actuator. Screw the special tool in as far
as it will go. 7. Remove the rear sub steering angle sensor wire from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
8. Loosen the angle sensor locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, then back it off about 1/2 turn
and connect the connector. 9. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position to prevent the
rear wheels from steering if the engine is started in error.
11. Turn the rear left wheel fully to the left by hand, then turn it slowly to the right to turn the 4W5
indicator light on (i.e. rear main steering angle
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 3366
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3147
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4126
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
10. Disconnect the connector from the A/C thermostat. 11. Remove the four self-tapping screws,
bolt, and two nuts, then remove the evaporator. 12. Install in the reverse order of removal, and:
^ If you're installing a new evaporator, add refrigerant oil (SP-10: P/N 38899-P13-A01). ^ Replace
0-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (SP-10: P/N
38899-P13-AO1) before installing them.
NOTE: Be sure to use the right 0-rings for HFC134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Locations
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve is located at the top of the valve cover.
Specifications
Drive/Propeller Shaft: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Intermediate Shaft Flange Bolt ...........................
..............................................................................................................................................................
. 28
Page 5504
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 930
Fuse Details Schematics
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3944
Tires: Service and Repair Balancing
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Page 434
PURPOSE
The Electrical Load Detector (ELD), mounted in the under-hood relay box, senses the total
amperage draw placed on the electrical system.
OPERATION
The ELD sends a voltage reference to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) which then determines and controls the charge rate of the alternator.
Page 1191
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
The low oil pressure indicator light works in two ways: it flashes continuously following a
momentary loss of engine oil pressure, or it goes ON and stays ON with a complete loss of engine
oil pressure.
When the engine first starts, before its oil pressure rises above 4.3 psi, voltage is applied to the
closed and grounded engine oil pressure switch and the light comes ON to test the bulb.
With the engine running, voltage is applied at the WHT/BLU wire of the integrated control unit. With
normal engine oil pressure, the engine oil pressure switch is open and the low oil pressure indicator
light does not come ON. If the engine oil pressure switch closes momentarily (more than 0.5
seconds) but then opens again, the YEL/RED wire at the integrated control unit will sense ground
through the switch. The integrated control unit will then provide and remove ground for the low oil
pressure indicator light through the YEL/RED wire. The light will flash ON and OFF until you turn
the ignition switch OFF. The flashing feature will not work until 30 seconds after initial voltage is
applied to the WHT/BLU wire of the oil pressure indicator flasher circuit. This delay keeps the low
oil pressure indicator light from coming ON during engine warmup.
If engine oil pressure falls below 4.3 psi and does not increase, the engine oil pressure switch will
stay closed. The low oil pressure indicator light will then come ON and stay ON.
Page 2794
1. Remove the front console.
2. Use a bench grinder to remove one ear from each new spring clip.
Page 3306
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
13. The tester displays the battery's current condition. The screen shows one of three possible
battery conditions, the battery's measured voltage, and the
CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70 percent of its charge and requires no action.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
15. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
07-030
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 957
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
NOTE: Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash-point solvent before reassembly.
32. Press a new wheel bearing into the hub using the special tools shown and a hydraulic press.
Page 4729
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
44. Install the brake caliper with the caliper mounting bolts. 45. Install the brake hose with the brake
hose mounting 46. Tighten the new spindle nut,
NOTE: Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and inside of the
wheel.
47. Install the wheel with the wheel nuts. 48. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if
necessary.
Page 1697
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Specifications
Circuit Schematics
Page 916
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3856
18. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the special tool from the rear actuator, and install the cap
bolt and the new sealing washer on the rear
actuator.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
3. Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the fuel pipe, while holding the special banjo
bolt with another wrench. 4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY
loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn.
INSPECTION
1. Remove the service bolt on the fuel pipe while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench and
attach the fuel pressure gauge. 2. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with engine idling
and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. 3. Pressure should read 255 -
305 kpa (36 - 43 psi) 4. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 5. Pressure
should read 195 - 245 kpa (28 - 35 psi) 6. If the fuel pressure is not as specified check the fuel
pump. If the fuel pump is okay, then check as follows:
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 839
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type ............................................................................................................................
......................................................................... SP-10 Honda PN .......................................................
........................................................................................................................................
38897-P13-A01AH Honda Code .........................................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 5023627
Page 4901
4. Torque the two rear seat track bolts to 34 N-m (3.5 kg-m, 25 lb.ft.).
5. Move the seat all the way back; then, with a small brush, apply a high-quality chassis grease to
both sides of the outboard seat track roller.
Page 5308
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
8. With the lid open, install the new latch pin in the notch in the body and the slot in the lid.
9. Install the spring plate over the latch pin and tighten the screw.
10. Open and close the cup holder several times to test its operation.
PARTS INFORMATION
Latch pin:
Hinge pin:
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Page 2747
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 1548
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 1264
13. Remove the oil pump housing bolt to the left and below the front balancer shaft.
14. Install the oil seal retainer from the kit on the pump housing with the bolt you just removed.
Torque the bolt to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
15. Reinstall the lower cover bolts, making sure the rubber seal seats properly in the cover. Torque
the bolts to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
16. Reinstall the crankshaft pulley. Use the special tools and a torque wrench to torque the pulley
bolt to 245 Nm (181 lb-ft). Make sure you use a torque wrench; do not use an impact wrench.
17. Reinstall the splash shield mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
18. Reinstall the left front wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to 108 Nm (80 lb-ft).
19. Reinstall the dipstick tube with the new O-ring from the kit. Torque the bolt to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
Reinstall the dipstick.
20. DOHC Prelude only: Reinstall the power steering reservoir and the power steering pump.
21. Reinstall the alternator belt and the power steering pump belt.
22. Tighten the adjusting bolts for the alternator and the power steering pump 20 turns, then torque
the mounting hardware as specified in the appropriate service manual. Use belt tension gauge T/N
07JGG-001010A or TGG-001000A to check for proper belt tension.
Page 3576
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Page 785
Drive Belt: Specifications
Air Conditioning
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.18-0.28 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.40-0.47
Alternator
New .....................................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 0.32-0.4 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.42-0.51
Power Steering
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.37-0.45 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.53-0.65
Circuit Schematics
Page 3969
5. Remove the mounting bolts for the brake hose bracket. 6. Remove the caliper mounting bolts
and hang the caliper assembly to one side
CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece
of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage.
7. Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws. 8. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the disc to
push it away from the hub.
NOTE: Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
10. Remove the speed sensor wire bracket, then remove the speed sensor from the knuckle.
NOTE: -
- Use ball joint removers, to separate the ball joints from the suspension or steering arm.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 3462
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Specifications
PAG oil, 120ml (use these numbers to order oil, but do not use them in the warranty claim:
Sanden - P/N 38897-P13-A01AH, H/C 5023627 Hadsys - P/N 38897-P0A-A01AH, H/C 5172663
Diagnosis Information
It there is normal pressure, or at least some pressure reading on the high side (some refrigerant in
the system), go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A.
Repair Procedure - A
2. Remove the condenser from the vehicle. (Refer to section 22 of the service manual.)
3. Add 10ml (113 oz.) of the proper PAG oil to the new condenser.
4. Install the new condenser with the new O-rings that came in the kit.
5. Evacuate and recharge the system with 650 g (23 oz.) of R-134a refrigerant.
6. Start the engine, run the air conditioner, and test the air temperature at the vents. If the system is
blowing warm air, troubleshoot and repair the system before continuing.
7. Go to REPAIR COMPLETION.
Repair Procedure - B
1. Remove the condenser from the vehicle. (Refer to section 22 of the service manual.)
2. Add 20ml (2/3 oz.) of the proper PAG oil to the new condenser.
3. Install the new condenser with the new 0-rings that came in the kit.
Page 4835
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 201
Fuse Details Schematics
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 5736
Parking Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
6. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 39.
Page 1698
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 1024
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Main Switch Test/Replacement
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Main Switch Test/Replacement
1. Carefully remove switch from instrument panel and disconnect electrical connectors. 2. Remove
cruise control switch from switch panel.
3. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to tables, Fig. 31.
Page 5638
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 1559
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 288
Connect battery power to terminal C and ground terminal B, and connect a test light between
terminals A and C.
Dip the A/C thermostat into a cup filled with ice water, and check the test light.
The light should go OFF at 37°F (3°C) or less, and should come ON at 39°F (4°C) or more.
If the light doesn't come on and go off as specified, replace the A/C thermostat.
Page 5072
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1253
13. Remove the oil pump housing bolt to the left and below the front balancer shaft.
14. Install the oil seal retainer from the kit on the pump housing with the bolt you just removed.
Torque the bolt to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
15. Reinstall the lower cover bolts, making sure the rubber seal seats properly in the cover. Torque
the bolts to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
16. Reinstall the crankshaft pulley. Use the special tools and a torque wrench to torque the pulley
bolt to 245 Nm (181 lb-ft). Make sure you use a torque wrench; do not use an impact wrench.
17. Reinstall the splash shield mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
18. Reinstall the left front wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to 108 Nm (80 lb-ft).
19. Reinstall the dipstick tube with the new O-ring from the kit. Torque the bolt to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
Reinstall the dipstick.
20. DOHC Prelude only: Reinstall the power steering reservoir and the power steering pump.
21. Reinstall the alternator belt and the power steering pump belt.
22. Tighten the adjusting bolts for the alternator and the power steering pump 20 turns, then torque
the mounting hardware as specified in the appropriate service manual. Use belt tension gauge T/N
07JGG-001010A or TGG-001000A to check for proper belt tension.
Electrical Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
Check for loose wheel bearings. You must replace loose wheel bearings before you refinish the
brake discs. If you do not, the brake lathe will not correct for brake disc runout, resulting in an
uneven finish and brake pulsation.
Remove the front wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts with flat washers to compensate for the
removed wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to the required specification (see the appropriate service
manual).
Remove the caliper assembly. Use a wire or a S-hook to hold the caliper to the spring or damper
tower. Do not kink the brake hose or use it to support the caliper. If you are not using the power
drive system and the vehicle has ICS or VSA, make sure you install a brake pad spreader between
the pads on the hanging caliper. Also, make sure the ICS or VSA is turned off anytime the engine
is started. If the system is not turned off, the brakes could activate, causing the brake pads on the
hanging caliper to hit each other or the caliper pistons to fall out.
Install the vibration damper on the brake disc. If you are not using the power drive system, make
sure you install the protective band around the wheel nuts.
If you are not using the power drive system, use a fabric tie-down strap to secure the brake disc
that is opposite to the one you are refinishing. If you are working on a Prelude with ATTS, do not
use a tie-down strap; let both wheels turn freely.
Remove the tool bed from the brake lathe, then mount the brake lathe to the steering knuckle with
a Honda 1-piece speed mount. These mounts provide quicker, more accurate mounting, and can
be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Page 5786
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 2006
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S), located at the exhaust manifold or pipe with the sensor end
extending into the exhaust stream, supplies a voltage signal to inform the Programmed Fuel
Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) of the air/fuel mixture in the engine.
OPERATION
The HO2S sensor uses zirconia and platinum to compare exhaust oxygen content with that of the
outside air. When heated by the combination of its internal heater and exhaust gases, the sensor
supplies a low voltage signal (0 - 1 volt) to the PGM-FI ECM. When the engine is running rich, the
oxygen differential is relatively high so signal voltage increases. When a lean condition occurs the
difference in oxygen content is much lower causing a lower voltage signal to be produced.
Page 3664
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque
specification then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut
by
loosening.
38. Install the knuckle on the lower arm and the tie-rod, then tighten the castle nuts and install new
cotter pins. 39. Install the knuckle on the upper arm, then tighten the castle nut and install a new
cotter pin.
41. Install the speed sensor with the sensor mounting bolts.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 2548
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Page 1150
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Engine Oil Capacity
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
Specified viscosities:
Specified viscosities:
23. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm. 24. Remove the crankshaft
pulley. 25. Install the timing belt lower cover. 26. Install a new seal around the adjusting nut. Do not
loosen the nut. 27. Install the timing belt upper cover. 28. Install the crankshaft pulley. 29. Coat the
threads and seating face of the pulley bolt with engine oil. Install and tighten to the specified torque.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
6. Remove the cap bolt and sealing washer from the rear actuator. Screw the special tool in as far
as it will go. 7. Remove the rear sub steering angle sensor wire from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
8. Loosen the angle sensor locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, then back it off about 1/2 turn
and connect the connector. 9. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position to prevent the
rear wheels from steering if the engine is started in error.
11. Turn the rear left wheel fully to the left by hand, then turn it slowly to the right to turn the 4W5
indicator light on (i.e. rear main steering angle
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Locations
4. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover 5. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and top adjusting nut, then remove
the alternator belt.
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, which is mounted center of the firewall, sends a
signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM). the PGM-FI
ECM uses this signal to sense engine load. Ignition timing and fuel delivery can then be adjusted to
maintain optimum engine performance.
OPERATION
The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal and a ground to the sensor. A vacuum line supplies intake
manifold vacuum to a small cavity under the silicon diaphragm which causes the diaphragm to flex.
The flexing of the silicon generates a small voltage which is amplified by the support circuitry and
used to modify the fixed 5 volt signal supplied by the PGM-FI ECM. The modified signal is then
returned to PGM-FI ECM.
Page 2007
INSPECTION
1. Turn Ignition switch off. Connect the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and
2. Connect a jumper wire between terminal A6 and terminal A26. 3. Turn ignition switch on.
Immediately measure voltage between terminals D14 (+) and A26 (-) as soon as ignition switch is
turned on. Voltage
should start at 0.4 - 0.5 volts when switch is first turned on, then decrease to below 0.1 volts in less
than two minutes.
4. If initial voltage is 0.1 volt or less, disconnect the four pin connector from the Heated Oxygen
Sensor (HO2S).
^ If voltage now reads 1.0 volt or less substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
^ If components test OK, check for opens or shorts in WHITE wire between PGM-FI ECM terminal
D14 and HO2S four pin connector, also GREEN/WHITE wire between PGM-FI ECM terminal D22
and HO2S four pin connector.
Locations
Flow Control
Fluid from the pump runs through a metering orifice to the valve body unit. This creates a pressure
difference between the pump and valve body unit sides of the orifice. When pressure in the pump
side is higher than the force of the spring holding the flow control valve closed, it pushes the valve
down (open), and excess fluid returns to the pump inlet. The combined effect of the metering orifice
and the flow control valve provides a relatively constant flow of fluid to the valve body unit.
Pressure Relief
As pressure on the valve body unit side builds up, it pushes the relief valve ball (inside the flow
control valve) up against its spring, and excess fluid returns to the pump inlet. As the pressure
under the flow control valve drops, the relief valve ball is closed by its spring, and the flow control
valve is forced down again, allowing excess fluid from the pump side to return to the inlet. This flow
control valve-relief valve cylinder keeps pump output pressure between 7000 - 8000 kPa (70 - 80
kg/cm2, 995 - 1,138 psi).
Page 5571
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
1. Stick the label containing only the serial number information on the glove box.
2. Stick the remaining two labels on the Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card and on the vehicle's
service records.
Page 3242
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S), located at the exhaust manifold or pipe with the sensor end
extending into the exhaust stream, supplies a voltage signal to inform the Programmed Fuel
Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) of the air/fuel mixture in the engine.
OPERATION
The HO2S sensor uses zirconia and platinum to compare exhaust oxygen content with that of the
outside air. When heated by the combination of its internal heater and exhaust gases, the sensor
supplies a low voltage signal (0 - 1 volt) to the PGM-FI ECM. When the engine is running rich, the
oxygen differential is relatively high so signal voltage increases. When a lean condition occurs the
difference in oxygen content is much lower causing a lower voltage signal to be produced.
Page 4738
96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System
1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a
third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor
underneath the seat.
3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control
unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5684
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Specifications
Camshaft: Specifications
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 1439
Fans- SI, SR, 4WS, VTEC, SR-V Models
Page 1926
Electric Load Sensor: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition and electrical consumers off. 2. Remove under hood fuse/relay box and remove
lower cover. 3. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Electrical Load Detector (ELD). Turn
ignition switch on.
4. Measure voltage between BLACK/YELLOW (+) terminal and BLACK (-) terminal. Voltage should
read battery voltage. (If not repair open in
5. Measure voltage between GREEN/BLACK terminal and BLACK (-) terminal. voltage should read
approx. 5.0 volts. (If not, inspect
GREEN/BLACK wire at the three pin connector and PGM-GI ECM terminal D10. IF wire OK,
substitute known good Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM)).
6. Turn ignition off. Reconnect three pin connector. Install Test Harness between PGM-FI ECM and
connectors. 7. Start engine and run at Idle.
Page 931
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 4084
Receiver/dryer:
P/N 80351-SS0-H91, H/C 4155321
PAG oil, 120 ml (use these numbers to order oil, but do not use them in the warranty claim):
Sanden - P/N 38897-P13-A01AH, H/C 5023627 Hadsys - P/N 38897-P0A-A01AH, H/C 5172663
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Repair Procedure
1. Remove the condenser from the vehicle. (Refer to section 22 of the service manual.)
2. Add 20 ml (2/3 oz.) of the proper PAG oil to the new condenser.
3. Install the new condenser with the new 0-rings that came in the kit.
7. Start the engine, run the air conditioner, and test the air temperature at the vents. If the system is
blowing warm air, troubleshoot and repair the system before continuing.
May 1997
Condenser
American Honda has determined that the air conditioning condensers in certain 1994-95 Preludes
may corrode when regularly driven in harsh conditions
Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Page 3471
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap. 3. Use a box end
wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the top of the fuel filter, while holding the special banjo bolt with
another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY loosen the 6mm service bolt
one complete turn.
5. Remove the 12mm banjo bolt and the fuel feed hose from the filter. 6. Remove the fuel filter
clamp and the fuel filter. 7. Reverse above procedure to install, replace washers as shown in
illustration. 8. Torque the banjo bolt to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft), torque fuel filter clamp bolt to 10 Nm (7
lb-ft), torque high pressure fuel line to 38 Nm (27 lb-ft).
Page 4869
repairing.
Repairing and Polishing the Painted Surface
The goal of a minor paint repair is to correct the damage to the upper layer of the painted surface.
This is done by removing a thin layer of paint (no more than 0.5 mil) and then restoring the luster
by polishing the repaired surface. A quick way to determine the depth of a scratch in the paint is to
run your fingernail across the scratch. If your fingernail catches on the scratch, the area will need to
be wet sanded and polished.
When doing scratch or swirl mark repairs, use only quality products from one manufacturer. Each
manufacturer has its own set of paint repair products that have matching materials. Mixing
materials from different manufacturers, or using inexpensive products, compromises the repair
quality.
An electric polisher with an adjustable rpm control set between 1,500 and 1,800 rpm is best for
polishing. When using a polisher, faster is not better. Too much polisher speed and too much
applied force can cause swirl marks or may even burn the paint.
Most swirl marks can be removed by using a foam polishing pad and polishing material. Use the
polisher at 1,500 to 1,800 rpm with a small amount of polishing material on the pad. Always begin
with the finest polishing material. If necessary, progress to the next coarser material only when the
fine materials are ineffective.
When polishing, work in small sections (approximately 24" x 24"). Avoid running the polishing pad
over edges of a body panel or body lines where the paint is more susceptible to burning through.
Let the cleaner do the work. Do not apply too much force! Forcing the polishing pad could cause
deep cuts into the paint and might damage the surface so badly that it would need to be repainted.
This additional procedure, after the polishing process described above, is important to reduce any
chance of swirl marks, which show more on dark colors. When polishing is completed, use the
same type of foam polishing pad on a random orbital polisher. Apply the finest polishing material to
a 24" x 24" work area. Start the polisher, and make three to four passes over the work area.
Remove the glaze residue with a cotton terry cloth or soft flannel cloth.
Wet Sanding
This process is used to repair scratches and acid rain damage deeper than 0.2 mil. The object is to
remove as little paint material as possible. When wet sanding, stop frequently and dry the work
area. This will allow you to see if the wet sanding has removed the damage.
Start by soaking a 1500 or 2000 grit wet/dry sanding paper in water for 15 minutes. Wrap the
soaked wet/dry sanding paper around a soft sanding pad. Lightly sand in one direction across (90
degrees) the scratched surface to highlight the surface damage. Flush the area with clean water.
To remove any sanding scratches left by the wet sanding process, use a foam polishing pad and a
polishing material. Refer to Removing Swirl Marks.
Final Inspection
When the polishing process is done, the paint surface may look perfect, but residue can hide very
fine scratches that will become apparent after a few washings. This is especially true for darker
colors.
Start the final inspection by spraying a 50/50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water on the work
area and then wiping it dry.
NOTE: Avoid spraying the solution on any unpainted plastic parts such as taillights, turn signal
lenses, reflectors, etc. The solution can cause cracking.
Inspect the repaired area, and repeat the polishing process if necessary. Finish the inspection by
waxing the completed vehicle with a high quality wax. Use the wax recommended by the paint
repair supplies manufacturer you have chosen.
Preventive Maintenance
Avoiding scratches and dents while the vehicle is in your dealership inventory requires some
preventive maintenance. To help reduce the occurrence of scratches and dents, follow these
recommendations: -
Park vehicles far enough apart to prevent door dents and dings.
- Leave the exterior shipping protection on the vehicle until it is ready to be sold.
- Wash the vehicles with deionized water, soap, and a wash mitt at least once a week.
NOTE: Using a wash mitt will remove any residual dirt from the paint surface. If a wash mitt is not
used, the residual dirt on the painted surface will scratch the paint when the surface is dried with a
chamois or towel.
Compact Disc Player (CD): All Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions
DVDs:
A Big Taboo
NOTE:
This article applies to all Honda models with a factory- or dealer-installed CD/DVD player or
changer.
We can't emphasize this enough: Never put adhesive labels or protective disc covers on
recordable CDs or DVDs to be used in automotive CD/DVD players or changers. Here's why:
^ Recordable CDs and DVDs are actually thicker than their pre-recorded brethern. Automotive
players and changers use rollers to draw the disc into the
unit. The added thickness of an adhesive label or a protective disc cover can cause the disc to jam
when it's loaded into or ejected from the unit.
^ CD/DVD players or changers are exposed to high temperatures inside the vehicle. High
temperature can cause the label adhesive to soften. This can
cause the label to curl on the edges and even form bubbles. Curled edges can catch on the rollers
and bubbles add thickness to the disc. Either one can cause the disc to jam.
To cut down on customer-caused damage, all '05 and later 0/Ms include this notice:
Do not use CDs with adhesive labels. The label can curl up and cause the CD to jam in the unit.
Anytime a service customer comes in with a loading or ejecting problem for a CD/DVD player or
changer, ask if he or she used any discs with adhesive labels or protective disc covers. If the
answer is yes, contact your DPSM for possible goodwill assistance. If the answer is no, then
replace the audio unit under normal warranty.
Specifications
SERVICE TIP:
Got a vehicle in your shop that buzzes or rattles, and you suspect the catalytic converter is the
culprit? Before you start replacing the converter, first check the heat shield area. If there any stones
or debris trapped inside, they can cause buzzing or rattling.
Page 320
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 5589
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 4688
8. With the lid open, install the new latch pin in the notch in the body and the slot in the lid.
9. Install the spring plate over the latch pin and tighten the screw.
10. Open and close the cup holder several times to test its operation.
PARTS INFORMATION
Latch pin:
Hinge pin:
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
1. Turn the Ignition off. 2. Disconnect the eight pin connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
3. Measure the resistance between the terminals indicated on the chart for the correct sensor.
Resistance should measure between 350 and 700 ohms.
4. If resistance checks correct, measure for continuity between body ground and each terminal of
the sensor being tested. If any continuity is
5. If all tests good but symptom or DTC indication persists see troubleshooting procedure for DTC's
4/8/9.
Page 4190
Control Assembly: Electrical Diagrams
Air Delivery (Part 1 Of 2)
Page 3986
IMPORTANT
Check all parts, including rims, lug studs, lug nuts, and mating surfaces of hubs and tire rims for
rust, damage, or dirt. Clean mating surfaces with a wire brush to remove any foreign material.
Replace any damaged parts as needed. Careless installation of tire/rim assemblies in a vehicle is a
major cause of tire installation problems. Proper installation, including fastener torque, is essential
to economical, safe and trouble free service. Use only the proper sizes and types of fasteners for
safe and proper service. Tighten the fasteners a quarter turn at a time using the tightening
sequence diagram as a guide. This is very important to prevent misalignment of the wheel.
Continue tightening the fasteners in sequence until the fasteners are tightened to the proper torque
(See WHEEL FASTENER TORQUE).
CAUTION: Improper torque or tightening sequence can cause distortion, fatigue cracks, or
alignment problems. After driving the vehicle for a short distance, recheck the wheel fastener
torque. Parts will usually seat naturally, reducing the torque on the fasteners. Retorque all
fasteners to the proper torque.
Page 4182
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 1270
6. Hold the installer shaft stationary with an 8 mm wrench, then turn the 19 mm nut clockwise until
the seal installer bottoms out on the oil pump housing.
8. Inspect the oil seal installation; make sure the oil seal lip is not damaged or distorted.
Disclaimer
Page 2041
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 3136
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5913
Wiper Motor: Service and Repair Rear Wiper Motor
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove hatch trim cover. 4. Remove cover and wiper arm
attaching nut, then the wiper arm. 5. Remove cap, nut and washers from wiper arm shaft. 6.
Remove rubber seal from wiper arm shaft, then disconnect wiper motor electrical connector. 7.
Remove three wiper motor attaching bolts and wiper motor. 8. Reverse procedure to install. 9. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 4176
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1232
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4514
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Page 3279
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove and disconnect starter relay.
2. Apply battery voltage to C and D terminals of relay, Fig. 10. 3. Check continuity between A and B
terminals of relay. Continuity should exist. 4. Disconnect battery voltage. There should be no
continuity between A and B terminals of relay. 5. If relay does not operate as specified, replace
relay.
Page 2618
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an
assembly, if necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control
solenoid valve assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil
and reconnect it securely.
Page 1718
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 3006
1. Remove right quarter trim panel. 2. Remove control unit mounting bolts, then the remove control
unit. When control unit mounting bolts are removed, the control unit's memory
is cleared.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 3441
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5711
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 3650
3. Release the parking brake lever fully and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the
parking brake indicator light goes off. 4. Turn the ignition switch off.
Sub Steering Angle Sensor Adjustment
6. Remove the cap bolt and sealing washer from the rear actuator. Screw the special tool in as far
as it will go. 7. Remove the rear sub steering angle sensor wire from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
8. Loosen the angle sensor locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, then back it off about 1/2 turn
and connect the connector. 9. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position to prevent the
rear wheels from steering if the engine is started in error.
11. Turn the rear left wheel fully to the left by hand, then turn it slowly to the right to turn the 4W5
indicator light on (i.e. rear main steering angle
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 323
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Specifications
NOTE: ^ Measure difference in toe measurements with the wheels pointed straight ahead. ^ If the
parking brake is engaged, you may get an incorrect reading.
4. 2WS:
^ Hold the adjusting bolt on the rear lower arm B and loosen the self-locking nut. ^ Adjust the rear
toe by turning the adjusting bolt until toe is correct. ^ Install the new self-locking nut and tighten
while holding the adjusting bolt.
4WS:
Page 945
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
13. Remove the key cylinder lock rod. Install the new rod listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
14. Reinstall the latch assembly in the door. Reconnect the lock rod to the crank, and the inner
handle rod to the inner handle.
15. Install the harness clip in the door and reconnect the electrical connector.
17. Screw the outer handle onto the rod. Use your measurement from step 8 to position the rod.
Connect the key cylinder lock rod to the outer handle. Install the outer handle in the door (2 bolts, 1
clip). Remove the protective tape.
18. Reinstall the rod protector and the access hole seal.
20. Install the power door lock fuse in the under-hood fuse box (if removed by customer). Connect
the electrical connectors for the power windows and door locks to the inner handle trim panel.
Verify the operation of the window and door locks.
21. Disconnect the electrical connectors to the inner handle trim panel. Install the door panel (2
screws).
22. Reconnect the electrical connectors, then install the inner handle trim panel in the door panel.
Reinstall the armrest pocket.
Page 3896
42. Install the sensor wire with the two bolts.
43. Install the brake disc with the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws.
44. Install the brake caliper with the caliper mounting bolts. 45. Install the brake hose with the brake
hose mounting 46. Tighten the new spindle nut,
NOTE: Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and inside of the
wheel.
47. Install the wheel with the wheel nuts. 48. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if
necessary.
Page 3510
Above Left Kick Panel
Photo 87
Photo 101
Photo 109
Page 1554
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Description and Operation
Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 13 and the fuel
and engine coolant temperature gauges. The gauge circuit is grounded at G402.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge is divided into 7 separate segments. The number of
segments that light up depends on the input from the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending
unit. The sending unit's resistance varies from about 142 ohms at low engine temperature to
between 49 and 32 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).
Locations
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 4130
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Page 684
2. 2WS: Position the wheels pointed straight ahead.
4WS: Set the front main steering angle sensor in the neutral position and jump the service check
connector to turn the 4WS indicator ON.
4. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts and turn both tie-rods in the same direction until the front wheels are
in straight ahead position. 5. Turn both tie-rods equally until the toe is correct. 6. After adjusting,
tighten the tie-rod locknuts.
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
Page 5270
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 1464
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 569
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 378
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 3378
Fuse: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 1410
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3498
Fuse Number And Protected Circuit
Page 2913
* REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transmission from the vehicle (see the Manual Transmission section of the
appropriate service manual).
2. Disassemble the transmission (see the Manual Transmission section of the appropriate service
manual). You do not need to disassemble the differential.
3. Remove any metal particles from the transmission's internal parts and from the inside of the
case.
Locations
Circuit Schematics
Page 831
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Page 2290
- Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
- Leaking fuel line.
Page 5411
Key Reminder Switch: Electrical Diagrams
Lights-ON Reminder
Page 3769
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 1368
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
August 7, 2001
Applies To: 1994-00 Accord - ALL with M/T 1992-01 Prelude - ALL with M/T
Fifth Gear Grinds During Upshift (Replaces 95-057, dated October 17, 2000)
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace 5th gear, the sleeve set, and the 5th shift fork.
PARTS INFORMATION
1994-97 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-PX5-307, H/C 4921607 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1998-00 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P0S-306, H/C 5614011 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1992-96 Prelude S
* Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465* 5th Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959
5th Gear: P/N 23581-P16-540, H/C 3940061 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959*
Page 1220
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 5499
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
INSPECTION
Page 5833
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
3. Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the fuel pipe, while holding the special banjo
bolt with another wrench. 4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY
loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn.
INSPECTION
1. Remove the service bolt on the fuel pipe while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench and
attach the fuel pressure gauge. 2. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with engine idling
and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. 3. Pressure should read 255 -
305 kpa (36 - 43 psi) 4. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 5. Pressure
should read 195 - 245 kpa (28 - 35 psi) 6. If the fuel pressure is not as specified check the fuel
pump. If the fuel pump is okay, then check as follows:
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5844
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 1893
7. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
Page 4583
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5177
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 1289
Balance Shaft: Service and Repair Installation
NOTE: Before installing the crankshaft, apply a coat of engine oil to the main bearings, rod
bearings and balancer shaft bearings.
1. Insert bearing halves in the engine block and connecting rods. 2. Hold the crankshaft so rod
journals for cylinders No. 2 and No. 3 are straight up.
3. Lower the crankshaft into the block, seating the rod journals into connecting rods No.2 and No.3.
Install the rod caps and nuts finger tight. 4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, seat journals into
connecting rods No. 1 and No.4, and install the rod caps and nuts finger tight.
NOTE: Install caps so the bearing recess is on the same side as the recess in the rod.
5. Check rod bearing clearance with plastigage, then torque the cap nuts:
NOTE: Reference numbers on connecting rod are for big-end bore tolerance and do not indicate
the position of piston in the engine.
Torque Sequence
6. Install the thrust washers, main bearing caps and bearing cap bridge.
- Check clearance with plastigage, then tighten the bearing cap bolts in 2 steps.
- In the first step tighten all bolts in sequence to about 30 Nm (3.0 kg-m, 22 lb ft).
NOTE: Coat thrust washer surfaces and bolt threads with oil.
CAUTION: Whenever any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is replaced, it is necessary after
reassembly to run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal operating temperature, then
continue to run it for approximately 15 minutes.
Page 3260
at any point, the knuckle is most likely distorted and should be replaced. Air gap should be
0.016-0.039 inches.
1. With ignition switch off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
2. Raise and support vehicle so all four wheels are off ground. 3. Turn ignition switch to on position,
then turn mode selector switch on anti-lock brake checker to 0. 4. With transaxle in Neutral
position, rotate each wheel at least one revolution per second and confirm that its respective
monitor light on the checker
blinks as wheel is rotating. Rotating wheel too slowly will produce only weak blinks of monitor
lights. Perform tests in shaded area, as monitor lights may be difficult to see in bright sunlight. If the
front wheels won't spin fast enough to get monitor indication, start engine and slowly accelerate
and decelerate front wheels.
5. If any monitor light fails to blink, check the suspected sensor, its air gap, wiring and connectors.
Page 1627
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close
and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
NOTE:
On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the
transmitter a second time.
1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock.
2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more
times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.)
4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position,
three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm
that the chirp has been turned on/off.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 1159
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 3597
Alignment: Service and Repair Alignment
NOTE: For proper inspection/adjustment of the wheel alignment, check and adjust the following
before checking the alignment.
^ Check that the suspension is not modified. ^ Check the tire size and tire pressure. ^ Check the
runout of the wheels and tires.
^ Check the suspension ball joints. (Hold a wheel with your hands and move it up and down and
right and left to check for wobbling.)
Each of the wheel alignment elements relates to the other. Therefore, the total adjustment of the
front/rear wheel alignment is required whenever either one of elements (i.e. camber, caster, toe,
and/or turning angle) is adjusted.
Camber Inspection
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
1. Check the tire pressure. 2. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position. 3. Check the
camber angle.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Campaign - A/C Condenser Corrosion
Technical Service Bulletin # 97-035 Date: 970428
Campaign - A/C Condenser Corrosion
97-035
Applies To: 1994 Prelude - S from VIN JHMBA8 ... RC000001 thru RC099999 (except Si, VTEC)
1995 Prelude - S from VINJHMBA8 ... SC000182 thru 50001963 - Si, SE from VIN JHMBB2 ...
SC000356 thru SC004959 - VTEC from VIN JHMBB1 ... 50000109 thru SC001129
BACKGROUND The potential exists for a problem with the A/C condenser on Preludes that have
been driven in specific geographical areas where corrosive road salt is used for snow and ice
removal, in areas where ocean air is combined with heat and humidity, or in areas subject to acid
rain. Any of these conditions may cause corrosion of the condenser tubes, causing pinholes that
allow the R-134a refrigerant to leak out.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be notified by mail of this
campaign. An example of the customer letter is included in this bulletin.
Page 330
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 2164
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Page 3179
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
1. Remove master cylinder reservoir cap, then the brake fluid by sucking out through top of
reservoir with suitable syringe. 2. Disconnect brake lines from master cylinder, then all necessary
electrical connectors. 3. Remove nuts retaining master cylinder to brake booster. 4. Remove
master cylinder. 5. Reverse procedure to install. After installation is complete, fill master cylinder
with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, then bleed brakes.
Page 5386
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 1188
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
NOTE:
^ The ED-18 battery test function in the GR8 should be used only when your ED-18 is out of
service.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual besides
the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online. Select
GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select Honda GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the GR8 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
August 7, 2001
Applies To: 1994-00 Accord - ALL with M/T 1992-01 Prelude - ALL with M/T
Fifth Gear Grinds During Upshift (Replaces 95-057, dated October 17, 2000)
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace 5th gear, the sleeve set, and the 5th shift fork.
PARTS INFORMATION
1994-97 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-PX5-307, H/C 4921607 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1998-00 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P0S-306, H/C 5614011 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1992-96 Prelude S
* Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465* 5th Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959
5th Gear: P/N 23581-P16-540, H/C 3940061 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959*
Page 854
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1. 5. Remove glove compartment.
Page 584
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Specifications
Page 3033
ALB Checker Installation
2. Disconnect the ABS inspection connector (6P) from the cross-member under the passenger's
seat and connect the ABS inspection connector (6P)
3. Fill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap. 4. Start the engine
and allow it to idle for a few minutes, then stop it. Check the fluid level in the modulator reservoir
and refill to the MAX level line
if necessary.
5. Bleed high-pressure fluid from the maintenance bleeder with the special tool. 6. Start the engine
and allow it to idle for a few minutes, then stop it. Check the fluid level in the modulator reservoir
and refill to the MAX level line
if necessary.
7. Turn the Mode Selector switch of the checker to 2. 8. While depressing the brake pedal firmly,
push the "Start Test" switch to operate the modulator. There should be kickback on the brake
pedal. If
NOTE: Continue to depress the brake pedal firmly when operating the checker.
Specifications
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Specifications
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR (MAP)
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1513
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Warm engine up to operating temperature (the radiator cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn ignition
off. 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.
Measure the resistance between the two terminals at the ECT.
Resistance should measure roughly 200-400 ohms. If resistance is outside range replace the ECT.
NOTE: If the ECT tests ok but symptom or DTC indication persist see DTC troubleshooting for DTC
6.
Page 500
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4798
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5208
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 2451
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the cooling fan comes on). 2. Check that
the throttle cable operates smoothly with no binding or sticking. Repair as necessary.
3. Check cable free play at the throttle linkage. Cable deflection should be 10 - 12 mm (0.39 - 0.47
in). 4. If deflection is not within specs, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut until the
deflection is as specified. 5. With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to be sure it
opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the
throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator.
Page 1411
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Testing and Inspection
Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Drain cooling system and remove cooling fan temp switch from the thermostat housing. 2.
Connect suitable ohmmeter between sensor terminals. 3. Heat thermo sensor in suitable solution
while observing ohmmeter. 4. Meter should indicate continuity when temperature reaches
190-0.03degreesF. 5. Allow sensor to cool while observing meter. Meter should indicate no
continuity as temperature drops below approximately 182-188degreesF. 6. If sensor fails to operate
as outlined, sensor is defective.
Page 4013
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 2651
1. Remove the 6 mm bolt from the transmission housing and remove the mainshaft and
countershaft speed sensors. 2. Replace the 0-ring with a new one before reassembling the
mainshaft and countershaft speed sensors.
Page 4350
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5790
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal B8 (+) and A26 (-). Voltage should read less than 1.0 volt. If
not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP
If there is more than 1.0 volt, inspect for opens in RED/GREEN (+) wire and/or BLACK (-) wire.
^ If there is less than 1.0 volt, replace the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch.
3. Start the engine. turn the steering wheel slowly. Measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+)
and terminal A26 (-) while steering wheel is turning.
Voltage should read battery voltage. If not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP switch and
measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+) and terminal A26 (-). ^
^ If voltage measures less than 1.0 volt, inspect for short in RED/GREEN (+) wire between PGM-FI
ECM and PSP switch and/or substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower panel. 3. Disconnect 5-P and 20-P connectors from main wire
harness.
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 11.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
SERVICE TIP:
Got a vehicle in your shop that buzzes or rattles, and you suspect the catalytic converter is the
culprit? Before you start replacing the converter, first check the heat shield area. If there any stones
or debris trapped inside, they can cause buzzing or rattling.
Page 5576
The Coil Wire connects the Ignition Coil to the Distributor cap. The spark plug wires connect the
terminals in the distributor cap to the spark plugs , allowing high voltage to flow to the spark plugs.
The wires have an internal resistance to suppress radio static.
Page 2691
3. Connect the appropriate fittings to the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. Connect the red hose to
the cooler outlet line (the line going to the external filter). Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet
line.
NOTICE
The quick connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air
system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to
your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible.
5. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the
cleaning process.
6. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
7. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler, then connect the red hose to the cooler
inlet line.
9. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically.
10. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
11. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines. Connect the red and blue hoses
to each other.
12. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used.
13. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines.
TOOL MAINTENANCE
Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly:
*^ Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters every 20 hours, based on hour meter
reading. For more information on filter replacement, see the
January 2008 Honda ServiceNews article, Hour Meter Tells You When to Replace ATF Cooler
Cleaner Filters.*
^ Fill the tank so the ATF is 4.5 inches from the top of the filler hole; do not overfill.
NOTE:
If the fluid level is low, the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on and the tank
heater will not work.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4797
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 2245
If the inspection for a particular code requires the Test Harness, remove the right door sill molding
and the small cover on the right kick panel and pull the carpet back to expose the ECM. Unbolt the
ECM cover. Turn the Ignition Switch off and connect the Test Harness.
Check the system according to the procedures described for the appropriate code(s).
Page 75
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 1590
PURPOSE
These vehicles are equipped with a PROGRAMMED FUEL INJECTION ELECTRONIC CONTROL
MODULE (PGM-FI ECM). The PGM-FI ECM, located at Passenger side footwell under the carpet,
controls all phases of engine operation. In order to accomplish this control, the PGM-FI ECM relies
on the input from a variety of engine operation sensors.
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM compares input signals with those stored in memory to determine what steps
should be taken to achieve maximum performance, fuel economy, and meet emission standards.
The PGM-FI ECM outputs the necessary signals to the fuel system, ignition system, air control
system, and the emission control systems. The PGM-FI ECM also records any malfunctions in the
monitored systems. When a malfunction is detected, the PGM-FI ECM will insert a
pre-programmed value to substitute for the defective signal, flash the Check Engine light, and store
the malfunction in erasable memory as a numeric code. Additionally, should the PGM-FI ECM itself
fail, their is a back-up circuit which will control the fuel system to allow the vehicle to continue
functioning (Back-up Mode).
Page 3243
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
PURPOSE
Located in the exhaust stream, the Three-way Catalytic Converter (TWC) is used to remove up to
90% of all three major emissions (HC, CO, and NOx)
OPERATION
The Catalytic Converter consists of a metal housing, a ceramic grid substrate, and a catalytic
coating of platinum and rhodium. Active metal content is about 2 grams of platinum/rhodium. As
exhaust gas containing HC and CO passes through the converter, the platinum catalyst starts an
oxidation (burning) process. HC and CO then unite with oxygen to form water vapor and carbon
dioxide. This oxidation process has no effect on NOx emissions. To reduce NOx, a separate
reduction reaction is necessary. A reduction reaction is the removal of oxygen from a material. In
three-way converters, rhodium is used as a catalyst to break down NOx into nitrogen and oxygen.
The effective conversion of pollutants begins at about 250°C (480°F). Complete catalytic reactions
depend on fuel mixture staying within a narrow range (14.7:1 ± 1%). This is achieved with a
properly functioning oxygen sensor system.
NOTE:
Ideal operating temperature for maximum conversion and long service life is 750°F - 1500°F
(400°C - 800°C). Engine malfunctions (misfires, etc.) can cause converter temperature to rise
above 2500°F (1400°C). Such temperatures can lead to converter destruction by melting the
substrate material.
NOTE:
DO NOT use leaded fuel except in emergencies. It will permanently render the converter
ineffective. Lead compounds deposited in the pores and on the surface of the active material
reduce or eliminate exposure to exhaust gasses. Excessive engine oil residues can also ruin the
catalyst.
Page 5843
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 4820
Power Locks: Electrical Diagrams
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 5445
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 2060
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Page 5460
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Locations
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Locations
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 3037
CAUTION: Do not loosen the maintenance bleeder too much. The high-pressure brake fluid can
burst out.
5. Tighten the maintenance bleeder to the specified torque.
WARNING: Use the Bleeder T-wrench before disassembling the parts shaded in the illustration.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 2779
2. Have an assistant stand in the center of the circle and listen for the clicking noise.
3. Drive the car in the opposite direction. The assistant should be able to tell which axle is making
the noise.
DIAGNOSIS
(On-hoist method)
3. Apply the brakes to load the engine speed to 1,500 rpm while maintaining the same throttle
position.
4. Turn the wheels slowly to full left and full right positions. Have an assistant listen to determine
which axle is making the noise.
NOTE:
A driveshaft with a light degree of noise may not be detected by this on-hoist method.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Use diagonal cutters to cut the two boot bands and the outboard joint boot, then remove them
from the driveshaft.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the outboard joint. Measure and record distance "A" (from the
splined end of the driveshaft to the inner race) as a reference for reassembly.
Page 3056
13. Coat a new piston seal with silicone grease and in stall it in the caliper. 14. Apply brake cylinder
grease (P/N: 08733-BO2OE) or equivalent rubber grease to the sealing lips and inside of a new
piston boot, and install it in
the caliper.
15. Coat the outside of the piston with brake fluid and install it on the adjusting bolt while rotating it
clockwise with the special tool.
16. Install the pad spring on the caliper. 17. Install the brake pad retainers and brake pads.
18. Align the cutout in the piston with the tab on the inner pad.
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Power Unit: Description and Operation Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Modulators and solenoid valves are integrated in the modulator unit. The modulators for front and
rear brakes are of independent construction and are positioned vertically. The modulators for rear
brakes are provided with a proportioning control valve to prevent the rear wheels from locking when
the anti-lock brake system is malfunctioning or not activated.
Service and Repair
Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 4.
Remove steering column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6.
Remove two switch attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse
procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to
Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 5183
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 2502
PURPOSE
The Ignition Coil transforms battery voltage into ignition voltage and delivers it in the form of a high
voltage surge to the secondary ignition components.
OPERATION
The Ignition Coil contains two windings of copper wire around a soft iron core. The primary winding
is made of a hundred or so turns of wire. The secondary winding contains several thousand turns
of wire wound directly onto the iron core. The ratio of the number of wraps in the secondary
winding to the number of wraps in the primary windings determines the output voltage of the coil.
The primary winding is connected directly to the ignition switch (+) and ignition control module (-).
The secondary winding is connected to the coil output tower through the iron core. Current flow
through the primary winding is stored as a magnetic field. When current flow in the primary winding
is interrupted (by the igniter breaking the circuit ground), the magnetic field collapses, inducing a
voltage surge into the secondary windings.
Page 2039
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 3224
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 3230
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 779
23. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm. 24. Remove the crankshaft
pulley. 25. Install the timing belt lower cover. 26. Install a new seal around the adjusting nut. Do not
loosen the nut. 27. Install the timing belt upper cover. 28. Install the crankshaft pulley. 29. Coat the
threads and seating face of the pulley bolt with engine oil. Install and tighten to the specified torque.
6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the side engine mount bracket stay B standard for
some types). 8. Remove the upper cover. 9. Remove the side engine mount.
10. Remove the dipstick and the pipe. 11. Remove the special bolt and the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the two rear bolts from the center beam to allow the engine to drop down and give
clearance to remove the lower cover.
12. Remove the timing belt adjuster rubber seal. Do not loosen the adjusting nut. 13. Remove the
lower cover.
Page 2474
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
Installation
Circuit Schematics
Page 5794
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Locations
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 5220
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3238
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 3774
Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 1656
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition off 2. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
3. With cold engine measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the Sensor. Resistance
should measure 0.4 - 4.0 k ohms depending on ambient
4. If resistance is out of range replace Intake Air Temp Sensor. 5. To check power to sensor, turn
key to Ign. position, measure voltage between RED/YELLOW terminal at connector and body
ground. Also test
between RED/YELLOW terminal and GREEN/WHITE terminal. Each reading should be approx. 5.0
volts.
Page 3746
NOTE: Take care not to turn the front sub steering angle sensor.
14. Disconnect the front sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the front sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
15. Check that each sensor is electronically in neutral (see page 17-146).
NOTE: Be sure that the center of the range where the 4WS indicator light blinks (indicating that the
front sub steering angle sensor is electronically in neutral), is in the range ±18 mm (±O.7 in; ±5.5°)
from the center mark on the steering wheel.
16. Reconnect the connector and secure the sub steering angle sensor wire harness with the
clamp and install the cover.
NOTE: ^ Be sure the sensor wire harness does not interfere with the stabilizer or other moving
parts. ^ Be certain that the wire is not twisted before connecting it.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car.
2. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensor are in electrically neutral position,
when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed before
checking the electrically neutral position.
Page 3623
As the car is driven, the rotors start turning and the fluid returns to the reservoir, reducing the fluid
pressure at the gain control valve. Therefore, the gain control valve begins to move to the right.
The orifice resistance on the pump and reservoir sides is appropriately balanced, with the result
that the reaction chamber is in the medium range and the steering resistance is moderate.
When the car is moving at high speed, the sensor reduces the pressure further and the gain control
valve moves further to the right. The orifice pressure on the pump side is low and the pressure on
the reservoir side is high, the fluid pressure in the reaction chamber is also high giving the steering
wheel less assist.
One-way Valve (In Power Steering Speed Sensor)
Page 1932
4. Torque the two rear seat track bolts to 34 N-m (3.5 kg-m, 25 lb.ft.).
5. Move the seat all the way back; then, with a small brush, apply a high-quality chassis grease to
both sides of the outboard seat track roller.
Page 4582
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 5031
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 640
Defect Code: 07406
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. When replacing lefthand side sensor, remove foot rest and door sill molding, then pull back
carpet. 3. When replacing righthand side sensor, remove foot rest and door sill molding, then pull
back carpet. Remove fuel injection ECM.
4. On either sensor, remove sensor mounting bolts, then the sensor, Fig. 35. 5. Reverse procedure
to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten dash attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition
switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
6. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 3885
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4936
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume Switch Test/Replacement
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the positive cable. 3. Ensure wheels are in straight ahead
position, then remove lower instrument panel cover.
4. Disconnect cable reel harness 6-P connector from air bag harness, then connect test harness C
only to cable reel harness, Fig. 37.
5. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 38.
Page 2771
2. Have an assistant stand in the center of the circle and listen for the clicking noise.
3. Drive the car in the opposite direction. The assistant should be able to tell which axle is making
the noise.
DIAGNOSIS
(On-hoist method)
3. Apply the brakes to load the engine speed to 1,500 rpm while maintaining the same throttle
position.
4. Turn the wheels slowly to full left and full right positions. Have an assistant listen to determine
which axle is making the noise.
NOTE:
A driveshaft with a light degree of noise may not be detected by this on-hoist method.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Use diagonal cutters to cut the two boot bands and the outboard joint boot, then remove them
from the driveshaft.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the outboard joint. Measure and record distance "A" (from the
splined end of the driveshaft to the inner race) as a reference for reassembly.
Page 4401
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the
transmitter's code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash
after each transmitter code is accepted.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), located rear of the transmission on the differential, is used by
the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to determine vehicle
speed and by the speedometer to drive the trip odometer/mileage odometer stepper motors and
the speedometer driver to indicate vehicle speed.
OPERATION
The speed sensor pulses the signal wire, switching its connection to ground on and off. The
number of pulses increasing with vehicle speed. This signal is used to operate the stepper motors
for the trip/mileage odometer, and the speedometer driver to indicate vehicle speed. This same
signal is used by the PGM-FI ECM to determine vehicle speed for PGM-FI operation.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 834
Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications
A/C Refrigerant ....................................................................................................................................
...................................................................... R-134a
Page 370
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 1118
Exhaust: 0.27 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.013 in)
4. Tighten the locknut and check clearance again. Repeat adjustment if not within spec.
5. Rotate crankshaft 180° counterclockwise (camshaft pulley will turn 90°). The "UP" mark should
be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No.3
cylinder.
6. Rotate crankshaft 180° counter clockwise to bring No.4 piston to TDC. Both TDC grooves are
once again visible. Adjust valves on No.4 cylinder.
7. Rotate crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No.2 piston to TDC. The "UP" mark should be
on the intake side. Adjust valves on No.2
cylinder.
8. Re-torque crankshaft pulley bolt to 250Nm (181 ft.lbs). Install cylinder head cover.
Page 462
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal B8 (+) and A26 (-). Voltage should read less than 1.0 volt. If
not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP
If there is more than 1.0 volt, inspect for opens in RED/GREEN (+) wire and/or BLACK (-) wire.
^ If there is less than 1.0 volt, replace the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch.
3. Start the engine. turn the steering wheel slowly. Measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+)
and terminal A26 (-) while steering wheel is turning.
Voltage should read battery voltage. If not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP switch and
measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+) and terminal A26 (-). ^
^ If voltage measures less than 1.0 volt, inspect for short in RED/GREEN (+) wire between PGM-FI
ECM and PSP switch and/or substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
Page 94
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 222
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5772
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4524
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
- For testing at connectors other than the Test Harness, bring the Tester Probe into contact with the
terminal from the connector side of Wire Harness Connectors in the Engine Compartment. For
female connectors, just touch lightly with the Tester Probe and do not insert the probe.
Troubleshooting
INSPECTION
If, after Performing individual component tests, it is determined that the problem(s) may exist in the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), It will be necessary to
substitute the PGM-FI ECM with a known good PGM-FI ECM and retest as needed.
Page 2120
INSPECTION
There are two tests of the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor; Electrical test and
Mechanical test.
Electrical Test
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector from the MAP sensor. Turn ignition
on.
MAP Sensor Connector Terminal Identification
2. Measure voltage between RED/WHITE (+) terminal and chassis ground. Voltage should read 5.0
volts. 3. Measure voltage between RED/WHITE (+) terminal and BLUE/WHITE (-) terminal. Voltage
should read 5.0 volts. 4. Measure voltage between WHITE/BLUE (+) terminal and BLUE/WHITE (-)
terminal. voltage should read 5.0 volts. 5. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin
connector at the Map sensor. Connect the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness. Turn ignition switch on.
6. Measure voltage between terminals D17 (+) and D21 (-). Voltage should read 3.0 volts. If not,
replace MAP sensor. If voltage OK, substitute
NOTE: If voltage readings at steps 2,3 and 4 do not test ok, inspect RED/WHITE (+), BLUE/WHITE
(-) and WHITE/BLUE (+) wires between the three pin connector and the PGM-FI ECM harness
connector for shorts and opens.
Mechanical Test
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1594
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair
REM0VAL
1. Turn ignition switch off. 2. Remove the right door sill moulding and the small cover on the right
kick panel. Pull the carpet back to expose the PGM-FI ECM. 3. Unbolt the PGM-FI ECM cover. 4.
Disconnect the PGM-FI ECM connector and remove the PGM-FI ECM.
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the PGM-FI ECM connector. 2. Position the PGM-FI ECM onto the bolts on the floor. 3.
Reinstall the protective cover and secure. 4. Reposition the carpet, kick panel and sill trim.
ABS Pressure Switch
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation ABS Pressure Switch
The pressure switch monitors the pressure accumulation in the accumulator and is turned off when
the pressure becomes lower than a prescribed level. When the pressure switch is turned off, the
switching signal is sent to the control unit. Upon receiving the signal, the control unit activates the
pump motor relay to operate the motor.
Page 2981
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Locations
* REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transmission from the vehicle (see the Manual Transmission section of the
appropriate service manual).
2. Disassemble the transmission (see the Manual Transmission section of the appropriate service
manual). You do not need to disassemble the differential.
3. Remove any metal particles from the transmission's internal parts and from the inside of the
case.
Page 2437
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor, mounted on and driven by the throttle body unit, is used by the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to detect throttle movement
and position.
OPERATION
A 5 volt reference signal is applied from the PGM-FI ECM and a ground signal. When the throttle is
opened the sensor resistance changes which is read as a varying voltage signal. At idle position
the sensor voltage is approx. 0.5 Volts and at full throttle approx. 4.5 Volts.
Page 5784
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 946
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
14. Lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place by installing one of a 6 x 1.0 mm lower cover
mounting bolts. 15. Loosen the timing belt adjusting nut. Push on the pulley to remove tension from
the timing balancer belt, then tighten the adjusting nut.
16. Remove the timing balancer belt. 17. Make sure the crankshaft is positioned with the No. 1
cylinder at TDC.
Page 1706
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
^ Slowly open fuel connections, allow pressure to escape, and catch spilled fuel in container.
NOTE: Use fuel system bleed bolt (located on passenger side of fuel rail) to relieve pressure.
Replacement of washer on bolt is recommended
^ Put any drained fuel in an explosive-proof container and put the lid on securely.
Page 1238
Oil Pressure Indicator System
Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
(Axle) Spindle Nut Torque: ..................................................................................................................
................................................ 181 ft.lbs. (250 Nm)
Specifications
Crankshaft: Specifications
Standard Journal Diameter:
Bearing Clearance:
Connecting Rods:
[01] -- Nos. 1 & 2 journals, 0.0008-0.0018 inches; No. 3 journal, 0.0010-0.0019 inches; No. 4
journal, 0.0005-0.0015 inches; No. 5 journal, 0.0004-0.0013 inches.
[02] --
Nos. 1 & 2 journals, 1.9676-1.9685 inches; No. 3 journal, 1.9674-1.9683 inches; No. 4 journal,
1.9679-1.9688 inches; No. 5 journal, 1.9680-1.9690 inches.
Page 3125
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 5309
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 4121
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1249
All owners of affected vehicles will be mailed a notification of this product update campaign. An
example of the customer notification is included in this service bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install an oil seal retainer to keep the oil seal from backing out.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE:
Early production kits also include a set of installation instructions. These instructions are incorrect,
do not use them. Use only the procedure in this service bulletin to install the kit.
Accord/Odyssey/SOHC Prelude:
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3371
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5362
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
The Fast Idle Thermo Valve, mounted under throttle body next to the Throttle Position sensor,
raises the idle speed when the engine is cold.
OPERATION
Controlled by a thermowax plunger type valve, When the engine coolant is cold, the thermowax
contracts the plunger which opens the valve allowing air to bypass the throttle plate and idle
adjusting screw into the intake manifold. When the engine coolant warms up, the valve closes and
the bypass air flow is blocked.
Page 1777
Fuel Filter: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Fuel Filter, mounted on the firewall towards the right side of the vehicle, is used to stop dirt,
sand and other foreign matter from entering the fuel injectors.
OPERATION
When the fuel flows under pressure from the fuel pump it passes through the fuel filter assembly.
Dirt, sand and other particles are trapped in the treated paper filter inside the housing. The Filter
element is an integral component of the Fuel Filter housing and they are replaced as an assembly.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
4WS Control Unit
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
When refilling cooling system, bleed cooling system to let out any trapped air.
1. Drain cooling system into suitable container. 2. Remove timing belt as outlined under Timing
Belt.
3. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump, Fig. 71. 4. Reverse procedure to
install. Tighten water pump attaching bolts to specifications.
Page 4395
Page 1432
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends
this information to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM contains memories for optimum EGR lift during various conditions. It reads
actual EGR position from the lift sensor. The sensor uses a plunger operated potentiometer
supplying a signal to the PGM-FI ECM. If the EGR actual position differs from it's preferred
position, the PGM-FI ECM cuts control solenoid power to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Page 1087
18. Align the groove on the front balancer shaft pulley with the pointer on the oil pump body as
shown. 19. Align the rear balancer shaft pulley by using a 6 x 100 mm boll or equivalent as an
alignment tool. Scribe a line 74 mm from the end of the bolt.
Insert the bolt into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
20. Loosen the adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. 21.
Install the timing balancer belt. 22. Turn the crankshaft pulley about one turn, then tighten the
adjusting nut to the specified torque.
NOTE: The belt adjuster is spring-loaded to properly tension the belt. Do not apply any extra
pressure to the pulleys or tensioner while performing the adjustment.
Page 3240
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
1. Turn the Ignition off. 2. Disconnect the eight pin connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
3. Measure the resistance between the terminals indicated on the chart for the correct sensor.
Resistance should measure between 350 and 700 ohms.
4. If resistance checks correct, measure for continuity between body ground and each terminal of
the sensor being tested. If any continuity is
5. If all tests good but symptom or DTC indication persists see troubleshooting procedure for DTC's
4/8/9.
Page 4813
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Circuit Schematics
Page 366
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Description and Operation
Starter Switch Signal: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses the starter signal
for fuel and timing control at engine start-up.
OPERATION
The starter signal is generated by the ignition switch whenever it is in the start position.
Page 2050
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
Tensioning the engine belts properly with the belt tension gauge (T/N 07JGG-001010A) is critical to
bearing life of the A/C compressor, alternator, etc. Calibration of the belt tension gauge should be
checked regularly.
CALIBRATION
A Belt Tension Gauge Checker, needed for checking the calibration of the belt tension gauge, is
now available. One checker is being automatically shipped to each dealership. Additional checkers
may be ordered through normal parts ordering channels. The part number is 07TGG-001010A.
Procedure
1. Push the handle and slide the checker into the gauge. Position the checker as shown.
2. Release the handle and read the tension value on the Kg scale.
3. Compare your reading to the value etched on the checker. Your gauge is in calibration if it is
within +/- 3 kg of the checker value.
If your belt tension gauge is out of calibration, you cannot recalibrate it yourself. Contact America
Kowa Seiki about sending it for recalibration.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Page 3169
Power Unit: Description and Operation Power Unit
The power unit consists of a motor and a plunger pump. Since an eccentric bearing is positioned
on the end of the motor shaft, the rotation of the motor provides the reciprocating motion of the
plunger. The brake fluid is thus pressurized and fed to the accumulator.
Page 5383
WARNING: Use the Bleeder T-wrench before disassembling the parts shaded in the illustration.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information
Use Worm-Style Clamps With the ATF Cooler Cleaner
The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF
cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high
pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off
or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop.
In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to
replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and
securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some
more? Just call G-TFC, Inc.
Page 2906
4. Remove the angular ball bearing from the mainshaft using the special tool and a press.
5. Press the mainshaft out of the 5th synchro hub.
7. Install the new sleeve set (synchro ring, hub, and sleeve) on the mainshaft.
8. Reassemble the rest of the removed parts on the mainshaft. Refer to the appropriate service
manual for the correct reassembly procedure.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Specifications
Valve Spring: Specifications
Free Length
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 2.158 inches Exhaust .....................................................................
............................................................................................................................................. [01]
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Page 864
Fuse Details Schematics
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Removal and Installation
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable. 3. Remove SRS unit left and right covers
from SRS unit. 4. Disconnect SRS control unit connector. 5. Remove four SRS control unit
mounting bolts, then control unit from vehicle. 6. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition switch in
On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
7. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Specifications
Fuel Filter: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Fuel Filter
07-030
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 5395
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower panel. 3. Disconnect 5-P and 20-P connectors from main wire
harness.
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 11.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 2148
Fuse Details Schematics
(Supersedes 89-022, dated June 18, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks)
Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured A/T, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler
to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat A/T failure. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner (PIN GTHTTCF6H) is a portable, electrically operated special tool that cleans the ATF
cooler with high- pressure, heated ATF. This cleaning action melts down waxy varnish residue left
by burnt ATF and purges metal particles, clutch material, and other contaminants. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner has these features:
^ Uses about 9.5 gallons of Honda ATF-Z1, which gets filtered and recirculated.
^ Heats ATF to a temperature of 1400 to 150°F and then pumps it through the ATF cooler at high
pressure (100 psi) using a pulsating action and air purging. Switching the hoses cleans the ATF
cooler in the reverse direction.
This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides
you through the entire ATF cooler cleaning process.
*REQUIRED MATERIALS
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional ATF cooler cleaners or magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters can be ordered through the
Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN, click on SERVICE, then Service Bay,
then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and Equipment Program menu, click on the
Online Catalog tab, and then search for the desired filter pack by part number.*
Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Page 3841
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque
specification then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut
by
loosening.
38. Install the knuckle on the lower arm and the tie-rod, then tighten the castle nuts and install new
cotter pins. 39. Install the knuckle on the upper arm, then tighten the castle nut and install a new
cotter pin.
41. Install the speed sensor with the sensor mounting bolts.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5067
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 1026
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
Wheel bearings and hub on these models are an integral assembly and bearings cannot be
adjusted. If hub endplay exceeds 0.002 inch (0.05 mm) with spindle nut properly tightened, hub
and bearing assembly should be replaced.
Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Page 5671
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3431
Fuse Number And Protected Circuit
Page 2170
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 483
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 148
NOTE: Perform an input test for the Ignition Control Module (ICM) only after finishing the
fundamental tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions system. also verify that the
tachometer operates normally.
1. Remove the distributor cap, the distributor rotor, and the inner cover.
2. Disconnect the BLACK/YELLOW, GREEN, YELLOW/GREEN, and BLUE wires from the ICM. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW wire and chassis
ground. There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check the BLACK/YELLOW wire between the Ignition Coil and the
ICM.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the GREEN wire and chassis ground.
There should be battery voltage.
Ignition coil.
5. Check the YELLOW/GREEN wire between the PGM-IG ECM and the ICM. 6. Check the BLUE
wire between the tachometer and the ICM. 7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
Page 1648
PURPOSE
The Electrical Load Detector (ELD), mounted in the under-hood relay box, senses the total
amperage draw placed on the electrical system.
OPERATION
The ELD sends a voltage reference to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) which then determines and controls the charge rate of the alternator.
Page 5672
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1874
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 1827
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations
The Intake Air Temperature Sensor is located on the intake manifold facing the firewall towards the
left side.
Page 1558
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5793
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 3466
Fuse: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 4782
5. Remove the rain protector grommet. Peel the rain protector back to the bracket.
6. Remove the rod protector and the access hole
7. Put protective tape around the outside door handle. Remove the two mounting bolts and the clip
screw, then pull the handle out of the door.
Page 422
PURPOSE
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is used to determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder
for sequential fuel injection, normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also
detects engine RPM.
OPERATION
The unit is made up of three separate sensors mounted inside the distributor. The Top Dead
Center (TDC) Sensor, the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, and the Cylinder Position (CYP)
Sensor. All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition
timing and to calculate engine RPM. ^
The TDC sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also
used as a backup signal in the event the CYP sensor signal becomes abnormal.
^ The CYP sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper
timing of the sequential fuel injection system for each cylinder.
^ The CKP sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects
engine speed.
Page 4831
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Photo 12
NOTE: Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash-point solvent before reassembly.
32. Press a new wheel bearing into the hub using the special tools shown and a hydraulic press.
Page 2450
INSPECTION
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the cooling fan comes on). 2. Check that
the throttle cable operates smoothly with no binding or sticking. Repair as necessary.
3. Check cable free play at the throttle linkage. Cable deflection should be 10 - 12 mm (0.39 - 0.47
in). 4. If deflection is not within specs, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut until the
deflection is as specified. 5. With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to be sure it
opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the
throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator.
Page 4992
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 136
INSPECTION
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
Page 2414
INSPECTION
2. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. Measure Voltage between
the YELLOW/BLACK wire and chassis ground.
Voltage should read battery voltage. (If not, repair YELLOW/BLACK wire between the IAC Valve
and the PGM-FI main relay).
3. Turn ignition off. Reconnect the two pin connector at the IAC Valve. Install Test Harness at the
main wire harness only, not the Programmed Fuel
4. Turn ignition on. Momentarily connect A9 terminal to A26 terminal several times. The IAC Valve
should click. If not, inspect/repair
BLACK/BLUE wire between the IAC Valve and the PGM-FI ECM terminal A9. If wire is OK then
replace the IAC Valve.
Page 279
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume Switch Test/Replacement
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the positive cable. 3. Ensure wheels are in straight ahead
position, then remove lower instrument panel cover.
4. Disconnect cable reel harness 6-P connector from air bag harness, then connect test harness C
only to cable reel harness, Fig. 37.
5. Check for continuity between terminals of test harness C in each switch position, Fig. 38.
Page 2876
4. Remove the angular ball bearing from the mainshaft using the special tool and a press.
5. Press the mainshaft out of the 5th synchro hub.
7. Install the new sleeve set (synchro ring, hub, and sleeve) on the mainshaft.
8. Reassemble the rest of the removed parts on the mainshaft. Refer to the appropriate service
manual for the correct reassembly procedure.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4496
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3568
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Page 4751
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times,
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward, and locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor,
underneath the seat.
3. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit with a pen or pencil.
When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Check that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front marker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by
the control unit.
If the inspection for a particular code requires the Test Harness, remove the right door sill molding
and the small cover on the right kick panel and pull the carpet back to expose the ECM. Unbolt the
ECM cover. Turn the Ignition Switch off and connect the Test Harness.
Check the system according to the procedures described for the appropriate code(s).
Page 4136
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 2029
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Removal and Installation
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
1. Remove master cylinder as outlined under Master Cylinder, Brakes. 2. Disconnect vacuum hose
from booster, then remove vacuum hose bracket. 3. Remove throttle/cruise control cable bracket,
then remove throttle cable grommet from engine compartment bulkhead. 4. Remove IAT sensor
from intake manifold. 5. Loosen pushrod locknut, then remove the cotter pin and clevis pin. 6.
Remove clevis from operating rod of booster. 7. Remove four booster mounting nuts, then pull
booster forward and turn right until operating rod is clear of bulkhead, then move operating rod
beyond damper by turning booster. Turn booster until operating rod is pointing forward, then
remove booster from engine compartment with front cylinder shell of booster pointing up.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Page 631
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
................................................ 25 k ohms max,
Ignition Wire
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................................... 25 k ohms max.
Page 2535
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Spark Plug Inspection
^ Insufficient cooling
2. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool. 3. Replace the plug if it is fouled or worn. 4. Apply a
small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. 5. Screw the plugs into the cylinder head
finger-tight, then torque them to 18 N.m (13 lb-ft).
Page 4724
NOTES:
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE
buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or
programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the
programming mode.
3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power
door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters.
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit
programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
Electrical Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid Valve, located at left front strut tower,
regulates vacuum to the EGR valve and is controlled by the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
Upon receiving electrical signals from the PGM-FI ECM, the EGR Control Solenoid Valve sends a
variable vacuum signal to the EGR valve. This opens the EGR Valve a specific amount allowing
exhaust gas to flow through the EGR valve.
Page 2269
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal D12 (+) and terminal D22 (-).
^ With no vacuum applied to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, voltage should read
approx. 1.2 volts.
^ With 8 in. hg. of vacuum applied to the EGR Valve, voltage should read approx. 4.3 volts.
3. If voltage is not read or voltage reading does not change when vacuum is applied to the EGR
Valve, replace the EGR Valve and Lift Sensor
assembly.
Locations
Parking Brake With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 13
to the brake system indicator light. When you apply the parking brake, the switch closes and
provides a ground for the light. The light comes ON to remind the driver that the parking brake is
applied.
Brake Fluid Level With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse
13 to the brake system indicator light. If the brake fluid level is low, the brake fluid level switch
closes, providing ground to the circuit. The brake system indicator light comes ON, alerting the
driver to a low brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder. (Check brake pad wear before adding
fluid.)
Bulb Check With the ignition switch in START (III), and the clutch pedal depressed or A/T gear
selector in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N), voltage is applied through fuse 2 to the bulb check circuit.
The bulb check circuit closes, allowing current to flow through the brake system indicator light and
bulb check circuit to ground. The brake system indicator light comes ON to test the bulb.
Page 1036
42. Install the sensor wire with the two bolts.
43. Install the brake disc with the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws.
44. Install the brake caliper with the caliper mounting bolts. 45. Install the brake hose with the brake
hose mounting 46. Tighten the new spindle nut,
NOTE: Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and inside of the
wheel.
47. Install the wheel with the wheel nuts. 48. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if
necessary.
Locations
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4656
3. Install the modified spring clips in the slots in the front of the center console.
23. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN.
PARTS INFORMATION
1. Check No. 13 (10A) fuse in under dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Disconnect 5-P
connector from fuel gauge sending unit.
3. Connect voltmeter positive probe to yellow/green terminal and negative probe to ground, then
turn ignition switch to On position, Fig. 5. 4. Voltage should be between 5-8 volts. 5. If voltage is not
as specified, check the following:
a. Check open yellow or yellow/green wire. b. Check blown fuse or poor ground.
6. Turn ignition switch On, then check as pointer of fuel gauge starts moving toward F mark. Turn
ignition switch to Off before pointer reaches F
7. If pointer of fuel gauge does not move, replace gauge. 8. If gauge is satisfactory, inspect fuel
gauge and sending unit.
Page 876
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 4285
1. Follow the procedure in the appropriate service manual for disconnecting the battery, and
removing the dashboard panels, steering column covers, airbag, and steering wheel.
^ Always install short connectors on the connectors for the driver's and passenger's (if so
equipped) airbags.
^ Make sure the front wheels are pointed straight ahead before removing the steering wheel.
2. Verify that the cable reel is centered; the yellow gear tooth is lined up with the alignment mark on
the cover. Install the cable reel holding fixture in the cable reel assembly as shown. Use a TORX
T-10 wrench.
3. Disconnect the 6-P connector, then remove the cable reel assembly.
1. Verify that the front wheels are still pointed straight ahead.
2. Reinstall the cable reel assembly, and reconnect the 6-P connector.
4. Follow the service manual procedure for reinstallation of the steering wheel, airbag, steering
column covers, and dashboard covers.
5. Verify SRS operation as described in the service manual. Road test the vehicle.
^ If the steering wheel spoke angle is not correct, change it by adjusting the tie rod ends. Do not
remove and reposition the steering wheel.
PARTS INFORMATION
Cable reel holding fixture: For 1992-95 Civic and Ohio-produced 1992-95 Accord P/N
77900-SPO-999, H/C 4733564
For 1991 Accord Wagon, 1992-95 Prelude, 1995 Odyssey and Japan-produced 1992-95 Accord
Use the Flat Rate Manual information for the repair being performed.
Page 380
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Bolts .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 101 Nm (74.5 ft. lbs.)
Page 4762
5. Remove the rain protector grommet. Peel the rain protector back to the bracket.
6. Remove the rod protector and the access hole
7. Put protective tape around the outside door handle. Remove the two mounting bolts and the clip
screw, then pull the handle out of the door.
Page 5046
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
TIRE REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric the size should be used. Most metric tire sizes
do not have exact corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended that new tires be
installed in pairs on the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with tire
having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION: Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and bias-belted tires except in
emergencies, because vehicle handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss of control.
Tire Dismounting
Remove valve cap on valve step and deflate the tire. Then use a tire changing machine to mount or
dismount tires. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instruction. Do not use hand tools or tire lever
alone to change tires as they may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
Tire Mounting
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and
light rust. Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well lubricated with an approved tire
lubricant. After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that beads are completely seated.
Inflate the air to specified pressure and install valve cap to the stem.
WARNING: Never stand over tire when inflating. bead may break when bead snaps over rim's
safety hump and cause serious personal injury. never exceed 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure when
inflating. if 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, re-lubricate and re-inflate. over
inflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
Tire Repair
There are many different materials on the market used to repair tires. Manufacturers have
published detailed instructions on how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be obtained
from the tire manufacturer if they are not included with the repair kit.
Wheel Inspection
Damaged wheels and wheels with excessive run-out must be replaced. Wheel run out at rim (Base
on hub Bore):
Page 5820
Fuse Details Schematics
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 2240
Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220
Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
98-011
This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering,
and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below.
Page 5826
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Locations
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
Tires: Service and Repair Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the
wires; you might break them inside.
Ignition Cable Inspection
1. Check the condition of the wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken
or distorted, replace the wire.
2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance. 3. If resistance exceeds 25 k ohms, replace
the ignition wire.
Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 647
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Page 3811
Steering Wheel: Service Precautions Deployed Air Bag
Put on a pair of shop gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes from possible
irritation and heat when handling the deployed air bag assembly.
After the air bag assembly has been deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery
residue. This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates) and
by products of the chemical reaction. Sodium hydroxide dust (similar to lye soap) is produced as a
by product of the deployment reaction. The sodium hydroxide then quickly reacts with atmospheric
moisture and is converted to sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore,
it is unlikely that sodium hydroxide will be present after deployment.
The passenger inflator requires no special precaution after deployment. 95% of the particulate
emission are potassium chloride (KCL), which is commonly sold as an edible salt-substitutes. even
if water is applied. Post deployment products are relatively pH neutral. Disposing the inflator by
burying it in a landfill will not products any hazardous products. As with any dusty environment,
safety goggles, dust mask and gloves should be worn.
Page 436
8. Measure voltage between D10 (+) terminal and A26 (-) terminal. While measuring, turn headlight
switch to second position (low). Voltage should
9. If voltage drops but DTC indication or symptom still exist substitute known good PGM-FI ECM.
Page 4655
1. Remove the front console.
2. Use a bench grinder to remove one ear from each new spring clip.
Page 4836
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 2485
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
13. Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor slowly counterclockwise, and check the range from
where the light starts to blink, to where it stops. 14. Tighten the rear sub steering angle sensor a
little. Repeat the step 13 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the
range
NOTE: ^ Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor counterclockwise to make the 4WS indicator light
blink. ^ If the rear sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off,
disconnect the connector, and straighten the wire.
15. Tighten the locknut while holding the rear sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
NOTE: Take care not to turn the rear sub steering angle sensor.
16. Disconnect the rear sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire. Reconnect the
connector.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the rear sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
NOTE: -
The adjuster is spring loaded to properly tension the belt. Do not apply any extra pressure to the
belt while performing the adjustment.
- Inspect the timing balancer belt before adjusting the belt tension.
- Do not loosen the adjusting nut more than one full turn.
1. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover.
Page 5227
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Locations
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 2030
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 2032
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 3141
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 5076
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 4444
Page 4111
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1757
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
The ABS indicator light comes on for three seconds and then goes off when the control unit detects
no problem during the initial diagnosis right after the engine starts.
However, the ABS indicator light can stay on for up to 40 seconds when the control unit starts to
check for pump overrun, etc. during the initial diagnosis.
The ABS indicator light comes on, and the ABS control unit memorizes the diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) under certain conditions.
- The parking brake is applied for more than 30 seconds while the vehicle is being driven. (DTC
2-1)
- The vehicle loses traction, and the front wheels spin for more than one minute when starting from
a stuck condition in mud, snow, or sandy road. (DTC 4-8)
- The tires adhesion is lost due to excessive cornering speed. (DTC 5, 5-4, 5-8)
- The vehicle is interfered by strong radio waves (noise), for example, illegal radio, etc. (DTC 8-2)
NOTE: If there is any trouble in the system, the ABS indicator light turns on during driving.
- When the control unit detects a problem and the ABS indicator light comes on, the control unit
memorizes the DTC.
- The control unit has three memory registers. When a problem occurs, the control unit stores the
DTC in the first memory register. If another problem occurs, or the same problem occurs again, the
control unit moves the first DTC to the next memory register, and stores the second DTC in the first
register. If there's a third problem occurrence, the two existing DTCs are moved up one register,
and the third DTC is stored in the first register. If problems continue to occur, the oldest problem is
moved out of the last register and lost, and the most recent problem is stored in the first register.
When the same problem occurs three times, the same DTC is stored in all memory registers.
(Refer to the Symptom-to- System Chart for diagnostic period.)
- The most recent DTC is indicated first, and the oldest DTC is indicated last.
- The DTCs are erased from the control unit when the ABS control unit +B2 power supply or
connector is disconnected.
- The control unit's memory can be erased by disconnecting the ABS B2 fuse for more than three
seconds.
Self-diagnosis:
1. Initial diagnosis: Performed right after the engine starts until the ABS indicator light goes off. 2
Regular diagnosis: Continuously performed (under some conditions) after the ABS indicator light
goes off until the engine stops.
3. Individual part/system diagnosis: Diagnosis about a specific part/system under its operating
conditions.
- The CPU (central processing unit) controls the following when it detects a problem during
self-diagnosis:
1. Turns the ABS indicator light ON. 2. Turns the front and rear fail-safe relays off. 3. Stops the
ABS control. 4. Stops the ABS pump. (The pump may work under some conditions.) 5. After the
DTC is stored in the control unit, the CPU stops self-diagnosis.
- When the engine is started, the ABS control unit begins the initial diagnosis and operates the
solenoid valve one time. The kickback may be felt when the brake pedal is depressed.
- When the ABS control unit detects the pressure switch OFF signal during the initial diagnosis, it
operates the pump motor, and performs the pump motor over-run diagnosis and pump motor
diagnosis. Therefore, there are two cases where the pump motor operates or does not operate
after the engine is started.
- Normally, after the initial diagnosis, the pump motor operates based on the pressure switch
signal, regardless of the vehicle speed.
Troubleshooting:
- When two or three DTCs are stored in the control unit, perform troubleshooting for the DTC that
appears first.
- When a customer's reported problem cannot be verified on the car, ask the customer about the
conditions when the ABS indicator light came ON, and test drive the car under those conditions, if
possible. When the ABS indicator light does not come ON during the test, check for loose terminals
and check by shaking the harnesses and connectors while following the flowchart.
- The connector terminal numbers are viewed from the wire side for the female terminals, and from
the terminal side for the male terminals.
- After the repair finished off, test drive the car and check the ABS indicator light does not come ON
again during the test. (Refer to the Symptom-to-System Chart for diagnostic period.)
Specifications
Fuel Rail: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 4300
Part 3
Page 2958
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an
assembly, if necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control
solenoid valve assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil
and reconnect it securely.
Page 1467
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Warm engine up to operating temperature (the radiator cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn ignition
off. 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.
Measure the resistance between the two terminals at the ECT.
Resistance should measure roughly 200-400 ohms. If resistance is outside range replace the ECT.
NOTE: If the ECT tests ok but symptom or DTC indication persist see DTC troubleshooting for DTC
6.
Page 1682
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS). Turn ignition switch on.
2. Measure voltage between YELLOW/WHITE (+) terminal and GREEN/WHITE (-) terminal.
Voltage should read approx 5.0 volts. If not, measure
^ If 5.0 volts is not measured, Turn ignition switch off, install test harness between PGM-FI ECM
and harness connector, turn ignition on. measure voltage between terminal D20 (+) and D22 (-), if
5.0 volts is measured, inspect for open in YELLOW/WHITE wire between D20 and TPS connector.
If 5.0 volts is not measured, substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
3. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin connector at the TPS. Install the test harness
between the PGM-FI ECM and the harness
4. Measure voltage between terminal D11 (+) and terminal D22 (-). Voltage should read approx.
0.5 volts at closed throttle position and approx. 4.5
volts at full throttle position with a smooth transition in between. If not, replace TPS with known
good part and retest.
Page 2748
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Page 1285
Side Cover Removal
1. Remove the right side cover.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 1759
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
When servicing the fuel system observe the following cautions:
^ Slowly open fuel connections, allow pressure to escape, and catch spilled fuel in container.
NOTE: Use fuel system bleed bolt (located on passenger side of fuel rail) to relieve pressure.
Replacement of washer on bolt is recommended
^ Put any drained fuel in an explosive-proof container and put the lid on securely.
Page 514
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal D12 (+) and terminal D22 (-).
^ With no vacuum applied to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, voltage should read
approx. 1.2 volts.
^ With 8 in. hg. of vacuum applied to the EGR Valve, voltage should read approx. 4.3 volts.
3. If voltage is not read or voltage reading does not change when vacuum is applied to the EGR
Valve, replace the EGR Valve and Lift Sensor
assembly.
Page 446
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 1138
Drive Belt: Specifications
Air Conditioning
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.18-0.28 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.40-0.47
Alternator
New .....................................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 0.32-0.4 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.42-0.51
Power Steering
New .....................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.37-0.45 Used ...............................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 0.53-0.65
10. Coat O-rings with grease and install together with orifices. 11. Install valve body unit onto gear
housing. Be careful not to hit pinion holder pin, and ensure O-rings are in place and not pinched.
12. Tighten attaching bolts to specifications. 13. Tighten hydraulic lines to valve body to
specifications.
Page 763
6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the side engine mount bracket stay B standard for
some types). 8. Remove the upper cover. 9. Remove the side engine mount.
10. Remove the dipstick and the pipe. 11. Remove the special bolt and the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the two rear bolts from the center beam to allow the engine to drop down and give
clearance to remove the lower cover.
12. Remove the timing belt adjuster rubber seal. Do not loosen the adjusting nut. 13. Remove the
lower cover.
Page 5596
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 2222
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
February 2, 2007
BACKGROUND
Honda automobiles and trucks are built to precise standards so that they can perform well under
many situations. For example, they offer a firm responsive ride yet yield when necessary under the
forces of a collision to help protect the vehicle occupants.
When body repairs are necessary, Honda recommends that any repairs be performed by an
experienced professional, using the Honda body repair manual, and that component replacement
be accomplished along factory seams. Failure to do so can result in a number of problems,
including improperly fitting parts, noises, tire wear, and most importantly, changes in vehicle
dynamics and occupant protection in a subsequent crash.
In particular, Honda strongly recommends against the process of joining cut pieces from separate
vehicle~commonly referred to as clipping. This is not an authorized Honda repair method. Any
problem with other components resulting from such improper vehicle repairs is not covered under
Honda's factory or extended warranties.
Also, because what's in a part is as important as how it looks, Honda strongly recommends the use
of Honda Genuine repair parts. The material used to create the part, such as high-strength steel,
and the subtle shapes of the part, determine how it will perform in normal operation or in a
subsequent collision. Using Honda Genuine repair parts helps return the vehicle to its pre-crash
condition.
ADHESIVES/WELDING
Using adhesives in place of welding for component replacement is not an authorized Honda repair
method. It is important to repair at factory seams using the same procedure as the factory
assembly process except where specified otherwise in the Honda body repair manual. The door
skin is welded at the top and is glued around the crimp. Each body repair manual states that if the
reinforcement in the door is damaged, the complete door must be replaced.
NOTE:
Because they are made of high-strength steel, door and bumper reinforcements must not be
repaired or straightened.
INFORMATION RESOURCES
Extensive research and development goes into every Honda to provide safety for those inside as
well as outside the vehicle. Therefore, it is critical that collision repair facilities do not change a
vehicle during collision repair. Please visit the following websites for further information about
Honda safety:
^ world.honda.com/safety, and
Body repair manuals can be purchased from Helm, Inc. using one of these methods:
^ Go online at www.helminc.com
Collision repair facilities can also subscribe to all manuals at www. serviceexpress.honda.com.
Dealers can log onto ISIS and view body repair manuals in the Search By Publication section.
Page 3233
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Locations
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5781
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 4564
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 4040
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Locations
The Coil Wire connects the Ignition Coil to the Distributor cap. The spark plug wires connect the
terminals in the distributor cap to the spark plugs , allowing high voltage to flow to the spark plugs.
The wires have an internal resistance to suppress radio static.
Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
THROTTLE POSITION / OUTPUT VOLTAGE
jumper wire.
3. Turn ignition switch to On position. 4. Check as needle of coolant temperature gauge starts
moving toward H mark. Turn ignition switch to Off position before pointer reaches H
a. Blown fuse in under dash fuse/relay box. b. Open in yellow/green wire, yellow or red wire. c. If
fuse and wiring are satisfactory, replace coolant temperature gauge.
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 3477
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 257
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Clutch Interlock Switch
1. Disconnect the connector from the shift control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No.1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the shift control solenoid
valve connector and body ground and between
3. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4. If the
resistance is within the standard, connect the No. 1 terminal of the shift control solenoid valve
connector to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if no clicking
sound is heard.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 3057
19. Install the caliper on the caliper bracket and tighten the caliper mounting bolts. 20. Connect the
brake hose to the caliper with new sealing washers and tighten the banjo bolt.
21. Insert the cable through the arm and connect the cable to the lever with the clevis pin and lock
pin. Install the cable clip securely. 22. Fill the brake reservoir up and bleed the brake system. 23.
Operate the brake pedal several times, then adjust the parking brake. 24. After installation, perform
the following checks.
- Check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary.
- Check the parking brake lever for operation and adjust if necessary.
Page 1217
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 1276
6. Hold the installer shaft stationary with an 8 mm wrench, then turn the 19 mm nut clockwise until
the seal installer bottoms out on the oil pump housing.
8. Inspect the oil seal installation; make sure the oil seal lip is not damaged or distorted.
Disclaimer
Page 3490
Power Distribution
Page 4027
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 489
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Photo 6
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Page 3455
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 2251
Page 5779
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
VALVE CLEARANCE
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
................... 0.23 - 0.28mm (0.009 - 0.011 inches) Exhaust ...............................................................
.................................................................................................... 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.013
inches)
Page 2011
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch sends a signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to increase idle speed when the demand for power
steering causes the idle to drop.
OPERATION
When the power steering is operated a signal is sent to the PGM-FI ECM which then commands
the Idle Air Control Valve to raise the idle speed compensating for the increased engine load.
Page 314
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5485
^ Slowly open fuel connections, allow pressure to escape, and catch spilled fuel in container.
NOTE: Use fuel system bleed bolt (located on passenger side of fuel rail) to relieve pressure.
Replacement of washer on bolt is recommended
^ Put any drained fuel in an explosive-proof container and put the lid on securely.
Page 1084
3. Remove the mounting bolt, nut and V-belt from the power steering pump.
NOTE: -
4. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover 5. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and top adjusting nut, then remove
the alternator belt.
5. Check your work by running your fingers over the cleaned and lubricated surface to feel for any
remaining contamination.
^ If you feel any particles on the cleaned surface fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk
shape, clean the section again, and recheck your work.
^ If the cleaned surface feels smooth, fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk shape, and go
to step 6.
NOTE:
You must carefully fold and knead the clay to keep a clean side next to the paint surface. Never
use clay that has fallen on the ground. Any small pieces of dirt or sand that imbed in the clay will
scratch the paint surface. If the clay falls on the ground, discard it and get a fresh piece.
6. Clean the remaining sections of the sprayed area (repeat steps 4 and 5).
7. Wipe the lubricant from all the cleaned sections with a clean terry cloth towel.
8. Clean the rest of the affected panel and any additional panels that need cleaning (repeat steps 3
thru 7).
9. Apply the manufacturer's recommended wax or glaze to all the cleaned panels.
Disclaimer
Page 863
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 3215
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 1007
TIRE REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric the size should be used. Most metric tire sizes
do not have exact corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended that new tires be
installed in pairs on the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with tire
having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION: Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and bias-belted tires except in
emergencies, because vehicle handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss of control.
Tire Dismounting
Remove valve cap on valve step and deflate the tire. Then use a tire changing machine to mount or
dismount tires. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instruction. Do not use hand tools or tire lever
alone to change tires as they may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
Tire Mounting
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and
light rust. Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well lubricated with an approved tire
lubricant. After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that beads are completely seated.
Inflate the air to specified pressure and install valve cap to the stem.
WARNING: Never stand over tire when inflating. bead may break when bead snaps over rim's
safety hump and cause serious personal injury. never exceed 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure when
inflating. if 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, re-lubricate and re-inflate. over
inflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
Tire Repair
There are many different materials on the market used to repair tires. Manufacturers have
published detailed instructions on how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be obtained
from the tire manufacturer if they are not included with the repair kit.
Wheel Inspection
Damaged wheels and wheels with excessive run-out must be replaced. Wheel run out at rim (Base
on hub Bore):
Main Switch Test/Replacement
Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Main Switch Test/Replacement
1. Carefully remove switch from instrument panel and disconnect electrical connectors. 2. Remove
cruise control switch from switch panel.
3. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to tables, Fig. 31.
Page 2353
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5410
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5545
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
NOTE: Install the timing belt with the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression
stroke.
20. Perform the timing belt tension adjustment. 21. Tighten the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt to lock the timing
belt adjuster arm. 22. Make sure the crankshaft is positioned with the No. 1 cylinder at TDC.
Page 1892
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal B8 (+) and A26 (-). Voltage should read less than 1.0 volt. If
not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP
If there is more than 1.0 volt, inspect for opens in RED/GREEN (+) wire and/or BLACK (-) wire.
^ If there is less than 1.0 volt, replace the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch.
3. Start the engine. turn the steering wheel slowly. Measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+)
and terminal A26 (-) while steering wheel is turning.
Voltage should read battery voltage. If not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP switch and
measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+) and terminal A26 (-). ^
^ If voltage measures less than 1.0 volt, inspect for short in RED/GREEN (+) wire between PGM-FI
ECM and PSP switch and/or substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
Page 4795
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2219
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
NOTE: Before adjusting the sub steering angle sensor, check that the front main steering angle
sensor is adjusted properly.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car. 2. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position.
3. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensors are in the electronic neutral
position when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed
before checking the electronic neutral position.
4. Set the parking brake lever and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the parking
brake indicator light turns on. 5. Turn the ignition switch off.
6. Cut the wire tie from the sub steering angle sensor cover, then remove the cover from the sub
steering angle sensor.
CAUTION: Use care when cutting the wire tie so as not to cut into the wire harness.
7. Remove the sub steering angle sensor wire harness from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
Page 3493
Power Distribution
Page 3348
Starter Motor: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then wait at least three minutes before continuing procedure.
3. Disconnect all electrical leads at starter. 4. Remove starter mounting bolts, then the starter. 5.
Reverse procedure to install, torque starter mounting bolts to 32 ft. lbs. 6. On models equipped with
radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and
arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 5787
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3100
12. Remove the circlip with snap ring pliers.
13. Hold the plate with your fingers and turn the shaft counterclockwise. Remove the special tool
from the caliper. 14. Remove the adjusting bolt.
15. Remove the spring cover, adjusting spring B, spacer, bearing A and cup from the adjusting bolt.
Page 4023
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 1604
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Main Relay, located under the left side of the dashboard, supplies power to the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), injectors and supplies power to the fuel
pump for 2 seconds for starting purposes.
OPERATION
The first relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the
PGM-FI ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
^ The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and
also energized when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
Page 4240
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
7. Install the new sleeve set (synchro ring, hub, and sleeve) on the mainshaft.
8. Reassemble the rest of the removed parts on the mainshaft. Refer to the appropriate service
manual for the correct reassembly procedure.
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500)
552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
NOTE:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the
switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times
total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will
exit the programming mode.)
4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode.
5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the
driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code.
6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter.
7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Installation
CAUTION:
Page 2374
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair
WARNING: Do not smoke during this repair. Keep open flames away from your work area. Be sure
to relieve fuel pressure while engine is off.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place a shop towel under the pressure regulator. 2.
Remove the fuel tank filler cap. 3. Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the top of the
fuel rail, while holding the special banjo bolt with another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY loosen the 6mm service bolt
one complete turn.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose. 2. Remove the two 6mm retainer bolts. 3.
Remove the fuel pressure regulator.
INSTALLATION
1. Replace O-ring. Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil and position it in grooved opening
on pressure regulator sealing surface. 2. Install the Fuel Pressure Regulator and torque pressure
regulator mount bolts to 12 Nm (9 ft-lb). 3. Reconnect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose. Turn
the ignition switch ON but do not attempt to start the engine. After the fuel pump runs for
approximately two seconds, the fuel pressure rises. Repeat two or three times, then check for fuel
leaks.
Page 745
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Spark Plug Inspection
^ Insufficient cooling
2. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool. 3. Replace the plug if it is fouled or worn. 4. Apply a
small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. 5. Screw the plugs into the cylinder head
finger-tight, then torque them to 18 N.m (13 lb-ft).
Page 117
Body Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
1. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the timing belt upper
cover. 4. Inspect the timing belt for cracks and oil soaking.
NOTE: -
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 2330
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3827
Disclaimer
Page 2684
1. Remove the mounting bolts and lock-up control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the lock-up control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the lock-up control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an
assembly, if necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the lock-up control
solenoid valve assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil
and reconnect it securely.
Page 897
Power Distribution
Page 482
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5494
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 2337
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5211
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
THROTTLE POSITION / OUTPUT VOLTAGE
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 4629
2. If necessary, loosen the hinge bolts for the fuel fill door. Adjust the door and retighten the bolts.
ACCORD
3. Install the boot over the spring tab for the fuel fill door.
PRELUDE
3. Before installing the boot, apply a small amount of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (Black), 3M P/N
051135-08011, to the spring tab.
CIVIC
Page 5666
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3632
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 1907
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Turn the Ignition off. 2. Disconnect the eight pin connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
3. Measure the resistance between the terminals indicated on the chart for the correct sensor.
Resistance should measure between 350 and 700 ohms.
4. If resistance checks correct, measure for continuity between body ground and each terminal of
the sensor being tested. If any continuity is
5. If all tests good but symptom or DTC indication persists see troubleshooting procedure for DTC's
4/8/9.
Page 92
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 1290
7. Insert the balancer shafts into the block, then install the retainer to the front balancer shaft and
block.
Right Side Cover
Cover Installation
8. Apply liquid gasket to the block mating surface of the right side cover. Apply a light coat of oil to
the crankshaft and to the lip of the seal, then
install the cover on the engine block. Torque the 6 x 1.0 mm bolts to 12 Nm (1.2 kg-m, 9 lb ft).
NOTE: -
- Check that the mating surfaces are clean and dry before applying liquid gasket.
- Apply liquid gasket evenly, being careful to cover all the mating surface.
- To prevent leakage of oil, apply liquid gasket to the inner threads of the bolt holes.
- Do not install the parts if 20 minutes or more have elapsed since applying the liquid gasket.
Instead reapply liquid gasket after removing the the old residue.
- After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
Page 5280
Emissions and Intake Air Control Component Circuits, Part 2 Of 2.
Page 5603
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral 7. After
adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 1137
If your belt tension gauge is damaged, replacement parts are available from America Kowa Seiki.
They are:
(800) 824-9655
^ Pack the belt tension gauge in a suitable box. Use "bubble pack" to protect the gauge.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 4180
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 3084
9. Turn the Mode Selector to 3, 4, and 5. Perform step 8 for each of the test mode positions. 10.
Refill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap.
WARNING: Disconnect the ALB Checker before driving the car. A collision can result from a
reduction or complete loss of braking ability, causing severe personal injury or death.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
NOTE: The reservoir on the master cylinder must be full at the start of bleeding procedure, and
checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake
fluid.
1. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
2. Loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed
screw securely.
Page 3657
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair
Knuckle/Hub
Removal
1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in proper
locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel.
4. Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut.
Page 3309
^ The latest battery test that shows Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace. Use the 10-digit code
from this test when submitting the warranty claim.
All battery warranty claims need an ED-18 or GR8 test code included under the DTC (Diagnostic
Trouble Code) field. Any claims submitted without a code will be rejected, and test codes are
audited for accuracy. Attach the ED-18 or GR8 tester printout that states Replace Battery or Bad
Cell - Replace. If your claim is rejected with the claim error codes 2080 or 2081, refer to these code
explanations:
^ 2080 - Battery test code required. Enter the 10-digit code from the ED-18 or GR8 in the DTC field
and resubmit.
^ 2081 - Good battery or invalid battery code. This code is created when you submit a 10-digit code
that indicates a Good Battery, Charge & Retest, or
Refer to the owner's manual or current Service Operations Manual for warranty coverage. Each
defective battery replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag securely attached to it. If
you need to replace a battery because of a non-electrical problem (for example, the case is
cracked) but the ED-18 or GR8 reads that the battery is good, contact your DPSM for help.
Warranty Coverage
Enter the warranty claim information listed, and the full dealer net amount. The parts and labor
reimbursement is calculated according to the following tables after you submit the warranty claim.
*Batteries in 2005-10 model year vehicles are covered in full for parts and labor with no mileage
limit for 36 months.*
See section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Parts Warranty - Replacement Battery Limited Warranty (Customer paid at a Honda dealership for
an AHM Parts battery)
Refer to the Warranty Requirements under Battery Replacement - Original Equipment Battery
Limited Warranty.
Warranty Coverage
Enter and submit a parts warranty claim with the information listed and the full dealer net amount.
The parts and labor reimbursement is calculated according to the schedule below after the
warranty claim is submitted.
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Page 1743
PURPOSE
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is used to determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder
for sequential fuel injection, normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also
detects engine RPM.
OPERATION
The unit is made up of three separate sensors mounted inside the distributor. The Top Dead
Center (TDC) Sensor, the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, and the Cylinder Position (CYP)
Sensor. All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition
timing and to calculate engine RPM. ^
The TDC sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also
used as a backup signal in the event the CYP sensor signal becomes abnormal.
^ The CYP sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper
timing of the sequential fuel injection system for each cylinder.
^ The CKP sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects
engine speed.
Page 3139
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Service and Repair
Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect wiring at switch. 2. Loosen locknut and remove switch. 3. Reverse procedure to
install. Allow 0.039-0.196 inch (1-5 mm) brake pedal freeplay.
Page 4572
Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3301
11. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically starts charging
the battery and diagnosing it.
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
12. After the GR8 completes its diagnosis, it displays the battery's current condition. The screen
shows one of three possible battery conditions, the
battery's measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph
that represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge and requires no action.
Page 2436
Throttle Body With Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Adj. Screw Location.
Page 3912
H/C 3251550
Defect code: 045
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5217
Low Fuel Lamp/Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 5727
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 219
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1409
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5079
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 764
14. Lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place by installing one of a 6 x 1.0 mm lower cover
mounting bolts. 15. Loosen the timing belt adjusting nut. Push on the pulley to remove tension from
the timing balancer belt, then tighten the adjusting nut.
NOTE: If you are removing only the timing balancer belt, go to step 22. If you are removing both
belts, continue with this procedure.
17. Loosen the 6 x 1.0 mm lock bolt and the adjusting nut. Push on the timing belt adjuster pulley to
remove tension from the belt, then tighten the
adjusting nut.
18. Remove the timing belt. 19. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal. Adjust the
valve clearance.
Component Locations
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
................................................ 25 k ohms max,
Ignition Wire
Resistance ...........................................................................................................................................
............................................... 25 k ohms max.
Page 3956
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 4447
Page 4191
Air Delivery (Part 2 Of 2)
Page 1681
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor, mounted on and driven by the throttle body unit, is used by the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to detect throttle movement
and position.
OPERATION
A 5 volt reference signal is applied from the PGM-FI ECM and a ground signal. When the throttle is
opened the sensor resistance changes which is read as a varying voltage signal. At idle position
the sensor voltage is approx. 0.5 Volts and at full throttle approx. 4.5 Volts.
Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Lock: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Locations
Igniter: Locations
The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is located inside distributor assembly
Specifications
Fuel Filter: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Fuel Filter
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 5511
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire crayons
^ Awl or probe
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles):
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 906
Fuse Number And Protected Circuit
Page 3293
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information
88-023
(Supersedes 88-023, dated September 12, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black
bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*^ Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, battery claim Error Codes were added to some
Warranty Requirements
^ The 2005 Model Year and Later battery coverage section was changed to 2005-10 Model Year
Vehicles.*
BACKGROUND
Maintaining batteries in vehicles is an important part of ensuring a battery's operating life. American
Honda recommends using the ED-18 and GR8 to check and maintain batteries. Refer to this
bulletin for:
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer (Version 1 or 2): ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBEDi8LLH ED-18 Version 2:
P/N INB17191840
NOTE:
Tool Requirements
The GR8 and ED-18 software must be updated within 3 days of a new software update release.
Refer to the applicable service bulletins for more information:
Warranty Requirements
The 10-digit test code must be included on a battery replacement claim. Refer to WARRANTY
CLAIM INFORMATION.
ORDERING INFORMATION
To order the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station or the ED-18-2 Battery Analyzer, go to the Honda Tool
and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment Program >
Online Catalog), or call.
ED-18 AND GR8 USES
NOTE:
Seats - Noise from The Drivers Side Track
Seat Track: All Technical Service Bulletins Seats - Noise from The Drivers Side Track
Bulletin No. 94-017
Applicable To ALL
Issue Date
JUNE 3, 1994
SYMPTOM
When accelerating at low speeds or when stopping, a one-time click or creak is heard. The noise
may sound like it is coming from the "A" pillar area.
PROBABLE CAUSE
A lack of grease in the seat track slides allows the seat track rollers to move slightly.
DIAGNOSIS
Drive the car at low speeds while holding the left seat track. During acceleration and stopping, the
click or creak movement of the roller in the seat track should be felt.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Off ice. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Adjust the seat tracks, and apply additional grease to the slides.
1. Loosen the four seat track bolts; then, move the seat all the way back. Check to be sure that
both seat tracks are locked into position.
2. Torque the two front seat track bolts to 34 N-m (3.5 kg-m, 25 lb.ft.).
3. Move the seat all the way forward, and check to be sure that both seat tracks are locked into
position.
Page 994
Tires: Description and Operation
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to the originals in load capacity, specified
dimension and mounting configuration. Improper size or type may affect bearing life, brake
performance, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to
the body and chassis. All model are equipped with metric sized tubeless steel belted radial tires.
Correct tire pressures and driving habits have an important influence on tire life. Heavy cornering,
excessively rapid acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking increase premature and uneven
wear.
The original equipment tires have built-in tread wear indicators (1) to show when tires need
replacement. These indicators may appear as wide bands. When the indicators appear in two or
more grooves at three locations, tire replacement is recommended.
Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Wheel Bearing: Customer Interest Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
97-018
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4721
Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide
90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL
NOTE:
Page 4109
Clutch Pedal Assembly: Customer Interest Clutch - Creaking From the Pedal
APPLICABLE TO ALL
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Lubricate the bushings, and spread the tabs on the clutch pedal assist spring bracket.
3. Reinstall the spring by putting the ends back in the bushings, then depress the clutch pedal and
install the center of the spring into the clutch pedal bushing.
Description and Operation
Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied through fuse 13 and the fuel
and engine coolant temperature gauges. The gauge circuit is grounded at G402.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge is divided into 7 separate segments. The number of
segments that light up depends on the input from the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending
unit. The sending unit's resistance varies from about 142 ohms at low engine temperature to
between 49 and 32 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).
Page 4420
Procedure 1
Page 4147
Image 22-12
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1713
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Page 4110
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 1420
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3439
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 935
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Locations
INSPECTION
Component Locations
2. Drive valve guide out bottom of cylinder head using a valve guide driver tool and suitable
hammer.
4. Using suitable valve guide installation tool, drive valve guide into place until tool bottoms. Reheat
cylinder head as necessary.
Page 5721
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1005
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Locations
^ *If the seal is cocked or backed out, replace the seal. Replace the timing belt and balancer belt if
they are contaminated with oil (refer to section 6 of the appropriate service manual). Then go to
step 14. This repair requires DSM approval.
^ *If the oil seal has backed out, causing internal engine damage from extended driving with a
complete loss of oil, contact your DSM.*
5. Loosen the mounting hardware for the power steering pump and the alternator. Then loosen the
adjusting bolts 20 turns (this is for reference during reassembly).
6. Remove the power steering pump belt and the alternator belt.
7. DOHC Prelude only: Remove the power steering reservoir and the power steering pump, and set
them aside. Do not disconnect any power steering fluid lines.
Locations
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 208
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
M/T - 5th Gear Grinds On Upshift
Synchronizer Ring: All Technical Service Bulletins M/T - 5th Gear Grinds On Upshift
01-070
August 7, 2001
Applies To: 1994-00 Accord - ALL with M/T 1992-01 Prelude - ALL with M/T
Fifth Gear Grinds During Upshift (Replaces 95-057, dated October 17, 2000)
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace 5th gear, the sleeve set, and the 5th shift fork.
PARTS INFORMATION
1994-97 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-PX5-307, H/C 4921607 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1998-00 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P0S-306, H/C 5614011 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1992-96 Prelude S
* Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465* 5th Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959
5th Gear: P/N 23581-P16-540, H/C 3940061 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959*
Page 5172
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4747
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 6
NOTE:
Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
2. Press and hold the driver's door master power door lock switch up in the unlock position.
(Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key in the ignition switch and remove it. Repeat this four more times within 10
seconds, then leave the key in the switch. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the
system is in the programming mode. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
system will exit the programming mode.)
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that all power door locks
(except the driver's) cycle to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the system.
5. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter. (You can program two transmitters per vehicle.)
6. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 7
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 2365
Injector Resistor.
3. measure resistance between terminal A and each of the injector resistor terminals. Resistance
should measure 5 - 7 ohms. 4. If any resistors measure outside range, replace injector resistor
assembly.
Page 506
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Page 3221
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Locations
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 3970
11. Clean any dirt or grease off the ball joint. 12. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas
shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads.
13. Remove the cotter pin from the steering arm and remove the nut. 14. Install a 12 mm hex nut
on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the
threaded end of the
ball joint.
Insert the jaws carefully, making sure you do not damage the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing
by turning the pressure bolt.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
16. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then
hand- tighten the pressure bolt and recheck the jaws
17. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering
arm.
Warning: Wear eye protection. The ball joint can break loose suddenly and scatter dirt or other
debris in your eyes.
18. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of
the steering/suspension arm.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 2596
1. Remove the mounting bolts and shift control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the shift control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the shift control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an assembly, if
necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the shift control solenoid valve
assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it
securely.
Page 1164
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1447
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation
Without A/C
Radiator fan operation is controlled by the radiator fan control module. The control module can turn
ON the fan motor anytime during the first 15 minutes after the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
The control module applies voltage to the radiator fan relay coil. When engine coolant temperature
reaches 93°C (199°F), engine coolant temperature switch A closes, and energizes the relay coil.
Voltage is then applied through fuse 47 to the relay, and the radiator fan motor, and because the
motor is grounded at G201, the radiator fan starts running.
When the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0), the radiator fan will stay ON until engine coolant
temperature switch B opens (below 1O5°C, 221°F), or the control module opens the circuit (about
15 minutes).
With A/C
Radiator fan and condenser fan operation is controlled by the radiator fan control module. The
control module can turn ON the radiator fan motor anytime during the first 15 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
The control module applies voltage to the condenser fan relay and radiator fan relay coils. When
engine coolant temperature reaches 93°C (199°F) (S, Si, SR, 4WS) or 95°C (203°F) (VTEC, SR-V)
engine coolant temperature switch A closes, and energizes both relays.
Voltage is then applied through fuse 47 to the radiator fan relay and the radiator fan motor, and,
because the motor is grounded at G201, the radiator fan starts running.
Voltage is also applied through fuse 45 to the condenser fan relay and the condenser fan motor,
and, because the motor is grounded at G381 (S) or G301 (Si, SR, 4WS, VTEC, SR-V) the
condenser fan also starts running.
Both fans will run when the control module receives an "A/C request" signal from the BLU/RED
wire when you turn on the A/C switch in the heater control panel.
When you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), the condenser fan will stop, but the radiator fan will
remain ON until engine coolant temperature switch B opens (below 105°C, 221°F), or the control
module opens the circuit (about 15 minutes).
Page 947
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve. The EGR Valve
is located at the right corner of the intake manifold near the ignition distributor.
Page 1850
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 1214
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 668
Page 3290
NOTE:
If you are using an RS232 to USB adapter, make sure to plug it in before checking the port
settings.
Expand Ports, and check the communications port number. The communications port number
should match the COMM number in the Midtronics update utility. If the numbers do not match, click
on the arrows next to the COMM windows in the Midtronics update utility, and change the number
to match the computer system's port number.
Page 415
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Warm engine up to operating temperature (the radiator cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn ignition
off. 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.
Measure the resistance between the two terminals at the ECT.
Resistance should measure roughly 200-400 ohms. If resistance is outside range replace the ECT.
NOTE: If the ECT tests ok but symptom or DTC indication persist see DTC troubleshooting for DTC
6.
Page 1168
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 4968
ABS Light: Service and Repair
ABS LAMP RESET PROCEDURE
- If all repairs have been completed, disconnect the ABS B2 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood
fuse/relay box for at least three (3) seconds to erase the ABS control unit's memory.
NOTE: The ABS control unit's memory will be erased if the connector is disconnected from the
ABS control unit or the ABS control unit is removed from the body.
Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 4482
5. Insert a thin stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1-1/2" from the right
side of the opening.
6. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
2. Remove the top cover plate from the changer, and look for a jammed tray.
3. If a tray is stuck in the player, reinstall the cover and replace the changer. If all the trays are in
the magazine, insert a thin stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from
the right side of the opening.
4. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 4345
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3399
Power Distribution
Page 5035
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 1663
MAP Sensor Testing
2. Disconnect #21 vacuum hose from the throttle body and apply vacuum. It should hold vacuum (if
it does not hold vacuum, test MAP sensor
separately from hose. If MAP sensor still does not hold vacuum, replace MAP sensor).
3. Install a tee fitting in line with hose #21 from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. Start engine
and run at idle, measure vacuum. Vacuum should
4. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between PGM-FI ECM and harness connector. Turn
ignition switch on.
5. Measure voltage between terminal D17 (+) and terminal D21 (-). Voltage should read 3.0 volts (if
not, replace MAP sensor). 6. Start engine and run at idle. Voltage should now read 1.0 volt (if not,
replace MAP sensor). If voltage tests OK but DTC indication/symptom still
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
4. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover 5. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and top adjusting nut, then remove
the alternator belt.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 2553
1. Remove the mounting bolts and shift control solenoid valve assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to remove or replace the shift control solenoid valves A and B as an assembly.
2. Check the shift control solenoid valve oil passages for dust or dirt and replace as an assembly, if
necessary. 3. Clean the mounting surface and oil passages of the shift control solenoid valve
assembly and install a new filter/gasket. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt or oil and reconnect it
securely.
Page 88
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5230
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
NOTE:
- Do not return the oil to the container once dispensed and never mix with other refrigerant oils to
avoid contamination.
- Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container and seal it to avoid moisture
absorption.
- Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the car; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the
paint, wash it off immediately.
Add refrigerant oil (SP-1O: P/N 38899-P13-AO1) after replacing the following parts:
- Evaporator: 30 ml (1 fl oz)
- Compressor: For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained from the removed
compressor from 130 ml (4 1/3 fl oz), and drain the calculated volume of oil from the new
compressor: 130 ml (4 1/3 fl oz) - Volume of oil from removed compressor = Volume to drain from
new compressor.
Page 1303
14. Lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place by installing one of a 6 x 1.0 mm lower cover
mounting bolts. 15. Loosen the timing belt adjusting nut. Push on the pulley to remove tension from
the timing balancer belt, then tighten the adjusting nut.
16. Remove the timing balancer belt. 17. Make sure the crankshaft is positioned with the No. 1
cylinder at TDC.
System Bleeding
Park vehicle on level ground with wheels blocked. When bleeding brakes, put manual transaxle in
the Neutral position and automatic transaxle in the Park position.
1. With ignition switch Off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on the
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
4. Bleed high pressure fluid from maintenance bleeder with bleeder wrench tool No.
07HAA-SG00101, or equivalent, Fig. 9.
5. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 6. Turn mode selector switch on
checker to 2. 7. While depressing brake pedal firmly, push start test switch to operate modulator.
There should be kickback on brake pedal. If there is no kickback,
8. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 3, 4 and 5. At each test mode position, refill modulator
reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 9. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and
install reservoir cap. Disconnect ALB checker before driving car. A collision can result from a
CAUTION:
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
1. Place the vehicle on level ground with the wheels blocked. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL for
manual transmission models, and in PARK
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 2036
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
^ Insufficient cooling
2. Adjust the gap with a suitable gapping tool. 3. Replace the plug if it is fouled or worn. 4. Apply a
small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. 5. Screw the plugs into the cylinder head
finger-tight, then torque them to 18 N.m (13 lb-ft).
Page 4409
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2479
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral 7. After
adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 5594
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1967
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Locations
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Locations
The Barometric Pressure Sensor (BARO) is built into the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and is not serviceable.
Page 2389
Fuel Rail
PURPOSE
The Fuel Rail, bolted to the intake manifold just beside the cylinder head, delivers pressurized fuel
to the injectors.
OPERATION
The fuel line, injectors, and the fuel pressure regulator are all connected to the fuel rail. When
pressurized, fuel is fed into one end of the Fuel Rail, the injectors are mounted along the side, and
the pressure regulator is mounted to the other side, this arrangement maintains a constant equal
pressure to each injector.
Clutch - Creaking Pedal
1994-96 ACCORD
Applicable To ALL
Creaking From the Clutch Pedal (Supersedes 95-025, dated May 8, 1995)
SYMPTOM
The coils of the clutch pedal assist spring are rubbing against each other.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
[NEW] Replace the clutch pedal assist spring with the new spring listed under PARTS
INFORMATION.
[NEW] 3. Install the new spring by putting the ends into the bushings, then depress the clutch pedal
and install the center of the spring into the clutch
pedal bushing.
PURPOSE
The Fuel Filler Cap, located on the left rear fender above the rear wheel, is designed to prevent
fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere.
OPERATION
It uses a built in relief valve which also introduces outside air into the tank when negative pressure
is present to prevent the fuel tank from collapsing. When tightening cap, turn clockwise until cap
clicks at least three clicks, to prevent vapor loss.
Page 5319
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 4184
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 5074
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1017
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Specifications
Air/Fuel Mixture: Specifications
IDLE MIXTURE:
Idle CO ................................................................................................................................................
................................................................. 0.1%
Page 5804
Headlight Switch (Part 2 Of 4)
Page 3501
- For testing at connectors other than the Test Harness, bring the Tester Probe into contact with the
terminal from the connector side of Wire Harness Connectors in the Engine Compartment. For
female connectors, just touch lightly with the Tester Probe and do not insert the probe.
Troubleshooting
INSPECTION
If, after Performing individual component tests, it is determined that the problem(s) may exist in the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), It will be necessary to
substitute the PGM-FI ECM with a known good PGM-FI ECM and retest as needed.
Page 4076
Prelude owners outside the specified geographical areas will be notified that the warranty on the
A/C condenser has been extended to 5 years with no mileage limit, Refer to service bulletin
97-036, Warranty Extension: Prelude Air Conditioning Condenser for details.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the A/C condenser. Replace the receiver/dryer if the refrigerant
has leaked out of the system.
Receiver/dryer:
10. Install the special tool on the spring cover and turn the shaft until the locknut contacts the plate
11. Check that the flared end of the spring cover is below the circlip groove.
12. Install the circlip in the groove, then remove the special tool.
Because of the milder driving conditions in your area, it is not likely that your car's A/C condenser
will ever corrode and fail. To protect you in the unlikely event that it does, American Honda is
extending the warranty on the A/C condenser to 5 years from the date your car was first sold.
There is no mileage limit. The rest of the air conditioning system is covered by Honda's 3
year/36,000 mile New Car Limited Warranty. Refer to your warranty booklet for details and
limitations.
There is no need to have the A/C condenser replaced as long as the air conditioning is working. If
the A/C should ever stop cooling the car's interior, take the car to a Honda dealer for diagnosis and
repair. If they determine that the condenser is bad, it will be replaced free of charge under this
warranty extension.
If you have any questions or concerns about this warranty extension, please call the Honda
Consumer Affairs Department at (800) 999-1009.
Page 3292
15. Click on Quit on the ED-18 update. Make sure the message UPDATE COMPLETE appears on
the ED-18 tester.
17. Confirm that the software on the ED-18 tester is updated to the software version listed under
SOFTWARE VERSION.
NOTE:
If you have any problems updating the ED-18, call Midtronics at 866-592-8054.
19. If you have more than one ED-18, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
20. Once all ED-18s are updated, store the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench in a safe
location for future updates.
Disclaimer
Page 1572
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Locations
The Electrical Load Detector (ELD) is mounted in the under-hood relay box.
Page 4812
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 3105
13. Coat a new piston seal with silicone grease and in stall it in the caliper. 14. Apply brake cylinder
grease (P/N: 08733-BO2OE) or equivalent rubber grease to the sealing lips and inside of a new
piston boot, and install it in
the caliper.
15. Coat the outside of the piston with brake fluid and install it on the adjusting bolt while rotating it
clockwise with the special tool.
16. Install the pad spring on the caliper. 17. Install the brake pad retainers and brake pads.
18. Align the cutout in the piston with the tab on the inner pad.
Page 3853
NOTE: Take care not to turn the front sub steering angle sensor.
14. Disconnect the front sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the front sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
15. Check that each sensor is electronically in neutral (see page 17-146).
NOTE: Be sure that the center of the range where the 4WS indicator light blinks (indicating that the
front sub steering angle sensor is electronically in neutral), is in the range ±18 mm (±O.7 in; ±5.5°)
from the center mark on the steering wheel.
16. Reconnect the connector and secure the sub steering angle sensor wire harness with the
clamp and install the cover.
NOTE: ^ Be sure the sensor wire harness does not interfere with the stabilizer or other moving
parts. ^ Be certain that the wire is not twisted before connecting it.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car.
2. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensor are in electrically neutral position,
when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed before
checking the electrically neutral position.
Page 3518
1. With engine at normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on) and at normal idle speed,
disconnect vacuum hose from the Exhaust Gas
Recirculation (EGR) valve and connect a vacuum pump/gauge to measure vacuum at the hose.
There should be no vacuum.
2. Disconnect vacuum pump/gauge from vacuum hose and connect it to the EGR Valve. Apply 8 in.
hg. of vacuum to the EGR Valve. 3. The engine should stall or run rough. The valve should hold
vacuum. If not:
4. Remove two screws and release the door panel clips with a clip remover. Remove the door
panel by carefully pulling it up.
Page 1167
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 5450
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Power Unit: Description and Operation Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Modulators and solenoid valves are integrated in the modulator unit. The modulators for front and
rear brakes are of independent construction and are positioned vertically. The modulators for rear
brakes are provided with a proportioning control valve to prevent the rear wheels from locking when
the anti-lock brake system is malfunctioning or not activated.
Page 5216
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Air Cleaner, mounted on the right fender, traps dirt and other contaminants before they have a
chance to enter the engine.
OPERATION
Air is drawn through the air intake tube, filtered by the Air Cleaner, then passes through the air flow
tube into the air intake chamber and finally into the throttle body. There is also a resonator chamber
connected to the air intake tube which helps reduce airflow noise as air is drawn into the system.
Page 1370
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
DISASSEMBLY
Page 3648
8. Loosen the locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, back it off about 3/4 turns and connect the
connector. 9. Turn the ignition switch on (engine off
10. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position. Set the front main steering angle sensor
electronically in neutral (4WS indicator light is
NOTE: Hold the steering wheel in this position until adjustment is completed. If the steering wheel
is moved in error, repeat the adjustment procedure starting with step 10.
11. Turn the front sub steering angle sensor slowly clockwise, and check the range from where the
light starts to blink to where it stops. 12. Loosen the front sub steering angle sensor. Repeat the
step 11 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the range from
NOTE: ^ Turn the front sub steering angle sensor clockwise to make the 4WS indicator light blink. ^
If the sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off, disconnect
the connector, and straighten the wire.
13. Tighten the locknut while holding the front sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
Page 3479
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Page 1218
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 3482
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Circuit Schematics
Page 4511
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 5212
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Locations
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Locations
The Barometric Pressure Sensor (BARO) is built into the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and is not serviceable.
Page 3633
Steering Angle Sensor: Adjustments
SUB STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Before adjusting the sub steering angle sensor, check that the front main steering angle
sensor is adjusted properly.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car. 2. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position.
3. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensors are in the electronic neutral
position when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed
before checking the electronic neutral position.
4. Set the parking brake lever and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the parking
brake indicator light turns on. 5. Turn the ignition switch off.
6. Cut the wire tie from the sub steering angle sensor cover, then remove the cover from the sub
steering angle sensor.
CAUTION: Use care when cutting the wire tie so as not to cut into the wire harness.
7. Remove the sub steering angle sensor wire harness from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
Page 1294
Oil Pan Installation
16. Install the oil pan.
17. Tighten the bolts and nuts in the sequence shown, to 14 Nm (1.4 kg-m, 10 lb ft).
NOTE: Tighten the bolts and nuts in two steps and torque them in a criss-cross pattern.
Page 2027
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 3560
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
* REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transmission from the vehicle (see the Manual Transmission section of the
appropriate service manual).
2. Disassemble the transmission (see the Manual Transmission section of the appropriate service
manual). You do not need to disassemble the differential.
3. Remove any metal particles from the transmission's internal parts and from the inside of the
case.
Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Page 3258
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 1234
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
NOTE: Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash-point solvent before reassembly.
32. Press a new wheel bearing into the hub using the special tools shown and a hydraulic press.
Page 244
at any point, the knuckle is most likely distorted and should be replaced. Air gap should be
0.016-0.039 inches.
1. With ignition switch off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
2. Raise and support vehicle so all four wheels are off ground. 3. Turn ignition switch to on position,
then turn mode selector switch on anti-lock brake checker to 0. 4. With transaxle in Neutral
position, rotate each wheel at least one revolution per second and confirm that its respective
monitor light on the checker
blinks as wheel is rotating. Rotating wheel too slowly will produce only weak blinks of monitor
lights. Perform tests in shaded area, as monitor lights may be difficult to see in bright sunlight. If the
front wheels won't spin fast enough to get monitor indication, start engine and slowly accelerate
and decelerate front wheels.
5. If any monitor light fails to blink, check the suspected sensor, its air gap, wiring and connectors.
Service and Repair
Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 4.
Remove steering column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6.
Remove two switch attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse
procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to
Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 574
NOTE: Take care not to turn the front sub steering angle sensor.
14. Disconnect the front sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the front sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
15. Check that each sensor is electronically in neutral (see page 17-146).
NOTE: Be sure that the center of the range where the 4WS indicator light blinks (indicating that the
front sub steering angle sensor is electronically in neutral), is in the range ±18 mm (±O.7 in; ±5.5°)
from the center mark on the steering wheel.
16. Reconnect the connector and secure the sub steering angle sensor wire harness with the
clamp and install the cover.
NOTE: ^ Be sure the sensor wire harness does not interfere with the stabilizer or other moving
parts. ^ Be certain that the wire is not twisted before connecting it.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car.
2. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensor are in electrically neutral position,
when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed before
checking the electrically neutral position.
Page 5039
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1417
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Specifications
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 3721
As the car is driven, the rotors start turning and the fluid returns to the reservoir, reducing the fluid
pressure at the gain control valve. Therefore, the gain control valve begins to move to the right.
The orifice resistance on the pump and reservoir sides is appropriately balanced, with the result
that the reaction chamber is in the medium range and the steering resistance is moderate.
When the car is moving at high speed, the sensor reduces the pressure further and the gain control
valve moves further to the right. The orifice pressure on the pump side is low and the pressure on
the reservoir side is high, the fluid pressure in the reaction chamber is also high giving the steering
wheel less assist.
One-way Valve (In Power Steering Speed Sensor)
Page 3151
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 2982
1. Remove the 6 mm bolt from the transmission housing and remove the mainshaft and
countershaft speed sensors. 2. Replace the 0-ring with a new one before reassembling the
mainshaft and countershaft speed sensors.
Page 954
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 508
INSPECTION
1. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Turn the ignition switch
on. 2. Measure the voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW terminal and the BLACK terminal on the
harness side of the connector. Voltage should read
approx. 5.0 volts. (If not, inspect no. 23 fuse (15A) in under dash fuse box).
3. Reconnect the three pin connector. Block rear wheels. Set park brake. Raise front of car and
support with safety stands. 4. Carefully back probe the ORANGE wire and connect it to chassis
ground THROUGH A VOLTMETER. 5. Block right front wheel. Slowly rotate left front wheel by
hand. Voltage should pulse between 12.0 volts and 0.0 volts. If voltage does not pulse,
replace VSS.
Page 4198
6. Remove the glove box, then remove the four mounting nuts from the front passenger's airbag
assembly. 7. Carefully lift the front passenger's airbag assembly out of the dashboard.
8. Remove the four bolts and front passenger's airbag frame.
9. Remove the four self-tapping screws and front passenger's airbag bracket.
Page 3685
When the car is moving in reverse, the power steering speed sensor also turns backward and
pumps fluid in the opposite direction. To avoid building up pressure in the reaction chambers that
would increase steering effort while driving in reverse, the inlet and outlet-ports are connected by a
second internal passage containing a relief valve that allows the fluid to recirculate.
Page 5577
Headlamp Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 4.
Remove steering column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6.
Remove two switch attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse
procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to
Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 2031
Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 4975
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 5248
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 5718
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 1339
7. Reconnect the two pin connector on the IAC, then remove the CLOCK/RADIO fuse in the
under-hood relay box for 10 seconds to reset the
PGM-FI ECM.
8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed.
9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (high beams on) and rear defogger ON, check idle
speed.
23. Reinstall the upper or middle cover. Torque the bolts to 12 Nm (8.7 lb-ft).
24. Reinstall the cylinder head cover. Torque the mounting hardware sequentially in two or three
steps as specified in the appropriate service manual.
26. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, then enter your customer's radio station presets. Set the
clock.
27. Center-punch a completion mark above the last character of the engine compartment VIN.
Page 4774
11. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the harness clip from the door.
12. Remove the three mounting screws, then remove the latch assembly from the door.
13. Remove the key cylinder lock rod. Install the new rod listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
14. Reinstall the latch assembly in the door. Reconnect the lock rod to the crank, and the inner
handle rod to the inner handle.
15. Install the harness clip in the door and reconnect the electrical connector.
17. Screw the outer handle onto the rod. Use your measurement from step 8 to position the rod.
Connect the key cylinder lock rod to the outer handle. Install the outer handle in the door (2 bolts, 1
clip). Remove the protective tape.
18. Reinstall the rod protector and the access hole seal.
20. Install the power door lock fuse in the under-hood fuse box (if removed by customer). Connect
the electrical connectors for the power windows and door locks to the inner handle trim panel.
Verify the operation of the window and door locks.
21. Disconnect the electrical connectors to the inner handle trim panel. Install the door panel (2
screws).
22. Reconnect the electrical connectors, then install the inner handle trim panel in the door panel.
Reinstall the armrest pocket.
Page 4868
Technical Service Bulletin # 97-028 Date: 970331
Body - Minor Paint Finish Repair
97-028
The first thing a new vehicle owner sees when he or she takes delivery of a new vehicle is the paint
finish. Therefore, making the vehicle look good is very important. However, customer feedback has
pointed out that many new vehicles are delivered with scratches and swirl marks. This is especially
true with dark colored vehicles.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the paint finish using the tools, supplies, and procedures
recommended for the type of damage (scratches, swirl marks, etc.) and for the color of the paint
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES To repair the paint finish, you should use these tools
and supplies:
* ETG (Electronic Thickness Gauge), or equivalent These mil gauges are commercially available.
They can be purchased from Pro Motorcar Products at 800-334-2843.
Supplies -
While we cannot recommend one manufacturer over another, any of the manufacturers listed here
can provide you with quality products through their nationwide distributor network. Contact them for
your paint repair supply needs, choose one, and then use the system of only that one
manufacturer. If you need to know how to use the products, ask the manufacturer for training.
3M Automotive Trades Division 22100 Telegraph Road P.O. Box 358 Southfield, MI 48037-0358
Phone Number: 800-521-8180 Ext. 6890
MOC Products 12306 Montague Street Pacoima, CA 91331 Phone Number: 818-896-2258
Repair Procedure
The following procedures may not apply to all conditions or colors. Use the procedure that best
suits the condition and color of the vehicle you're
Page 5078
Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 5639
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. When replacing lefthand side sensor, remove foot rest and door sill molding, then pull back
carpet. 3. When replacing righthand side sensor, remove foot rest and door sill molding, then pull
back carpet. Remove fuel injection ECM.
4. On either sensor, remove sensor mounting bolts, then the sensor, Fig. 35. 5. Reverse procedure
to install, noting the following:
a. Tighten dash attaching bolts to specifications. b. After completing installation, place ignition
switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six seconds,
then lamp should turn off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS
is indicated.
6. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 898
Power Distribution
Locations
Igniter: Locations
The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is located inside distributor assembly
Page 5164
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4354
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 225
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 5175
Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3095
Fig. 5 Front Pin Sliding Disc Brake Caliper
1. Refer to Fig. 5 when overhauling calipers. 2. Remove caliper assembly from vehicle.
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 682
Alignment: Service and Repair Alignment
NOTE: For proper inspection/adjustment of the wheel alignment, check and adjust the following
before checking the alignment.
^ Check that the suspension is not modified. ^ Check the tire size and tire pressure. ^ Check the
runout of the wheels and tires.
^ Check the suspension ball joints. (Hold a wheel with your hands and move it up and down and
right and left to check for wobbling.)
Each of the wheel alignment elements relates to the other. Therefore, the total adjustment of the
front/rear wheel alignment is required whenever either one of elements (i.e. camber, caster, toe,
and/or turning angle) is adjusted.
Camber Inspection
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
1. Check the tire pressure. 2. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position. 3. Check the
camber angle.
Handling/Installation/Diagnosis
1. Air bag assembly should not be subjected to temperatures above 65° C (150° F). 2. Air bag
assembly, and SDM should not be used if they have been dropped from a height of 100
centimeters (3.28 feet) or more. 3. When a SDM is replaced, it must be oriented with the arrow on
the SDM pointing toward the front of the vehicle. It is very important for the SDM
to be located flat on the mounting surface, parallel to the vehicle datum line. It is important that the
SDM mounting surface is free of any dirt or other foreign material.
4. Do not apply power to the SRS unless all components are connected or a diagnostic chart
requests it, as this will set a diagnostic trouble code. 5. The "SRS Diagnostic System Check" must
be the starting point of any SRS diagnostics. The "SRS Diagnostic System Check" will verify proper
"AIR BAG" warning lamp operation and will lead you to the correct chart to diagnose any SRS
malfunctions. Bypassing these procedures may result in extended diagnostic time, incorrect
diagnosis, and incorrect parts replacements.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 5236
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal B8 (+) and A26 (-). Voltage should read less than 1.0 volt. If
not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP
If there is more than 1.0 volt, inspect for opens in RED/GREEN (+) wire and/or BLACK (-) wire.
^ If there is less than 1.0 volt, replace the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch.
3. Start the engine. turn the steering wheel slowly. Measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+)
and terminal A26 (-) while steering wheel is turning.
Voltage should read battery voltage. If not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP switch and
measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+) and terminal A26 (-). ^
^ If voltage measures less than 1.0 volt, inspect for short in RED/GREEN (+) wire between PGM-FI
ECM and PSP switch and/or substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
Page 1166
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 1500
1. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay. 2. Connect ohmmeter between relay
terminals A and B, Fig. 10. 3. Meter should indicate no continuity. 4. Connect battery voltage
across terminals C and D. 5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between
terminals A and B.
Page 4415
Programming the Transmitter
1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren
then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you
wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait
more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the
system exits the programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Page 1001
Waddle is side-to-side movement at the front and/or rear of the car. It can be caused by the steel
belt not being straight within the tire, or by excessive lateral runout of the tire or wheel. It is most
noticeable at low speed, about 8 to 48 km/h (5 to 30 mph). It may also cause rough ride at 80 to
113 km/h (50 to 70 mph). The car can be road tested to see which end of the car has the faulty tire.
If the tire causing the waddle is on the rear, the rear end of the car will "waddle". From the driver's
seat, it feels as if someone is pushing on the side of the car. If the faulty tire is on the front, the
waddle is more easily seen. The front sheet metal appears to be moving back and forth. It feels as
if the driver's seat is the pivot point in the car. Another more time-consuming method of determining
the faulty tire is substituting tire and wheel assemblies that are known to be good. Follow these
steps:
1. Drive the car to determine if the waddle is coming from the front or rear. 2. Install tire and wheel
assemblies known to be good (from a similar car) in place of those on the end of the car which is
waddling. If the waddle
3. Road test again. If improvement is noted, install the original tire and wheel assemblies one at a
time until the faulty tire is found. If no
improvement is noted, install tires known to be good in place of all four. Then, install the originals
one at a time until the faulty tire is found.
Service and Repair
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair
If equipped with maintenance reminder flag:
After completing the required service, the maintenance flags may be reset by inserting the ignition
key into the appropriate slot, on the instrument below the indicator flag. When the ignition key is
inserted into the slot, the indicator flag should change to green.
1. Turn off the engine. 2. Press and hold the select/reset button(s) on the instrument panel, then
turn the ignition switch ON (Position II). 3. Hold the button(s) for at least 10 seconds, until the
indicator resets.
Testing and Inspection
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 3946
Tire pressure, in cold condition (after vehicle has set for three hours or more, and driven less than
one mile) should be checked monthly or before any extended trip. Tire pressure increases
approximately 15% when the tires become hot during driving. Tire pressure specification is shown
on the label located on the left door lock pillar.
NOTE: Check the tire pressure whenever irregular wear is found. Tire inflation greatly affects tire
wear. If the alignment check does not reveal any alignment problems, check the condition of the
shock absorbers and wheel/tire balance.
Specifications
Air/Fuel Mixture: Specifications
IDLE MIXTURE:
Idle CO ................................................................................................................................................
................................................................. 0.1%
Description and Operation
Power Steering Pump: Description and Operation
Steering Pump Construction
The pump is a vane-type incorporating a flow control valve (with an integrated relief valve) and is
driven by a V-belt from the crank pulley. The pump features 10 vanes. Each vane performs two
intake/discharge operations for every rotation of the rotor. This means that the hydraulic fluid
pressure pulse becomes extremely small during discharge.
Operation
Page 3392
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 2734
4. Use a large screwdriver to bend the assist spring bracket outward approximately 1 mm.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5223
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5803
Headlamp Switch: Electrical Diagrams
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Because of the milder driving conditions in your area, it is not likely that your car's A/C condenser
will ever corrode and fail. To protect you in the unlikely event that it does, American Honda is
extending the warranty on the A/C condenser to 5 years from the date your car was first sold.
There is no mileage limit. The rest of the air conditioning system is covered by Honda's 3
year/36,000 mile New Car Limited Warranty. Refer to your warranty booklet for details and
limitations.
There is no need to have the A/C condenser replaced as long as the air conditioning is working. If
the A/C should ever stop cooling the car's interior, take the car to a Honda dealer for diagnosis and
repair. If they determine that the condenser is bad, it will be replaced free of charge under this
warranty extension.
If you have any questions or concerns about this warranty extension, please call the Honda
Consumer Affairs Department at (800) 999-1009.
Page 3051
12. Remove the circlip with snap ring pliers.
13. Hold the plate with your fingers and turn the shaft counterclockwise. Remove the special tool
from the caliper. 14. Remove the adjusting bolt.
15. Remove the spring cover, adjusting spring B, spacer, bearing A and cup from the adjusting bolt.
Page 2752
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and left knee bolster. 2. Disconnect connector from
switch. 3. With clutch pedal released, check continuity between both terminals. No continuity
should be found. If continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, check continuity between both terminals. Continuity should be
found. If no continuity is found, replace or adjust
switch as necessary.
Page 4816
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
1. Remove right quarter trim panel. 2. Remove control unit mounting bolts, then the remove control
unit. When control unit mounting bolts are removed, the control unit's memory
is cleared.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
- The master cylinder pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjustments made, if
necessary, before installing the master cylinder.
1. Set the special tool on the master cylinder body; push in the center shaft until the top of it
contacts the end of the secondary piston by turning the
adjusting nut.
2. Without disturbing the center shaft's position, install the special tool upside down on the booster.
3. Install the master cylinder nuts, and tighten to the specified torque. 4. Connect the booster in-line
with a vacuum gauge 0 - 101 kPa (0 - 760 mmHg, 30 in.Hg) to the booster's engine vacuum
supply, and maintain an
engine speed that will deliver 66 kPa (500 mmHg, 20 in.Hg) vacuum.
5. With a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut as
shown.
NOTE: If the clearance between the gauge body and adjusting nut is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch), the
pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0 mm. However, if the clearance between the gauge body and
adjusting nut is 0 mm, the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch) or more. Therefore, it
must be adjusted and rechecked.
6. If clearance is incorrect, loosen the star locknut, and turn the adjuster in or out to adjust.
NOTE: -
Adjust the clearance while the specified vacuum is applied to the booster.
1. Stick the label containing only the serial number information on the glove box.
2. Stick the remaining two labels on the Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card and on the vehicle's
service records.
Page 2158
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 2177
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap. 3. Use a box end
wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the top of the fuel filter, while holding the special banjo bolt with
another wrench.
4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY loosen the 6mm service bolt
one complete turn.
5. Remove the 12mm banjo bolt and the fuel feed hose from the filter. 6. Remove the fuel filter
clamp and the fuel filter. 7. Reverse above procedure to install, replace washers as shown in
illustration. 8. Torque the banjo bolt to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft), torque fuel filter clamp bolt to 10 Nm (7
lb-ft), torque high pressure fuel line to 38 Nm (27 lb-ft).
Page 4763
8. Disconnect the lock cylinder rod. Measure the distance "A" on the top of the outer handle rod,
then unscrew the handle from the rod. Remove the handle from the door.
9. Remove the center channel.
10. Disconnect the inner handle rod from the inner handle. Disconnect the lock rod from the crank.
Page 3511
Right Front Of Floor, Under Carpet
Photo 118
Photo 125
Photo 137
Page 4470
^ Handle a CD by its edges; never touch the flat surfaces. Contamination from fingerprints, liquids,
felt-tip pens, and labels can cause the CD to not play properly, or possibly jam in the drive.
^ When cleaning a disc, use a clean soft cloth. Wipe across the disc from the center to the outside.
Do not wipe the disc in a circular motion.
^ A new CD may be rough on the inner and outer edges. The small plastic pieces causing this
roughness can flake off and fall on the recording surface of the disc, causing skipping or other
problems. Remove these pieces by rubbing the inner and outer edges with the side of a pencil or
pen.
^ Various accessories are available to protect CDs and improve the sound quality of CDs. These
accessories increase the thickness or diameter of the discs, and should not be used in CD
changers.
Disclaimer
Page 573
8. Loosen the locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, back it off about 3/4 turns and connect the
connector. 9. Turn the ignition switch on (engine off
10. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position. Set the front main steering angle sensor
electronically in neutral (4WS indicator light is
NOTE: Hold the steering wheel in this position until adjustment is completed. If the steering wheel
is moved in error, repeat the adjustment procedure starting with step 10.
11. Turn the front sub steering angle sensor slowly clockwise, and check the range from where the
light starts to blink to where it stops. 12. Loosen the front sub steering angle sensor. Repeat the
step 11 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the range from
NOTE: ^ Turn the front sub steering angle sensor clockwise to make the 4WS indicator light blink. ^
If the sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off, disconnect
the connector, and straighten the wire.
13. Tighten the locknut while holding the front sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
Page 304
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Specifications
Air/Fuel Mixture: Specifications
IDLE MIXTURE:
Idle CO ................................................................................................................................................
................................................................. 0.1%
Page 4266
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 7.
Page 4124
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the work area. Drain
fuel only into an approved container.
Page 5447
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 3491
Power Distribution
Page 3854
3. Release the parking brake lever fully and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the
parking brake indicator light goes off. 4. Turn the ignition switch off.
Sub Steering Angle Sensor Adjustment
6. Remove the cap bolt and sealing washer from the rear actuator. Screw the special tool in as far
as it will go. 7. Remove the rear sub steering angle sensor wire from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
8. Loosen the angle sensor locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, then back it off about 1/2 turn
and connect the connector. 9. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position to prevent the
rear wheels from steering if the engine is started in error.
11. Turn the rear left wheel fully to the left by hand, then turn it slowly to the right to turn the 4W5
indicator light on (i.e. rear main steering angle
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
Locations
Speaker: All Technical Service Bulletins Radio - Buzzing In The Driver's Door
SYMPTOM
A buzzing noise can be heard in the driver's door when the audio system volume is turned up to
the midpoint or higher.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Apply EPT Sealer 10T (see PARTS INFORMATION) to the back of the door lock control unit.
1. Remove the driver's door panel. Refer to page 20-3 of the service manual.
PARTS INFORMATION
8. Install the special tool between the caliper body and spring cover.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the inside of the caliper cylinder during caliper disassembly.
9. Position the locknuts as shown, then turn the shaft until the plate just contacts the caliper body.
Page 1569
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Photo 61
Photo 65
Photo 79
Page 951
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 310
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 5501
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 204
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5077
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 2153
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 4508
Radio/Stereo: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 1163
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 2905
* REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transmission from the vehicle (see the Manual Transmission section of the
appropriate service manual).
2. Disassemble the transmission (see the Manual Transmission section of the appropriate service
manual). You do not need to disassemble the differential.
3. Remove any metal particles from the transmission's internal parts and from the inside of the
case.
Page 1733
Throttle Body With Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Adj. Screw Location.
Page 583
Remove the vibration damper and the protective band (if used). Use a micrometer to measure the
thickness of the brake disc. Make sure the thickness is within the service manual specifications.
Clean the brake disc with soapy water or brake cleaner, then wipe it dry. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust or chips, but do not use compressed air.
Unplug the tool bed feed motor from the drive motor assembly, and remove the mounting yoke
from the brake disc. Remove the speed mount from the steering knuckle.
Apply a small amount of Molykote 77 grease to the brake pad shims. Reinstall the caliper
assembly. (If you did not use the power drive system, use the brake pad spreader to push the
pistons back into the caliper.)
Torque the nuts and bolts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual).
Refinish the other front brake disc using the same guidelines.
Check the brake fluid level, then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the brake pedal is firm and
does not pulsate. Lightly apply the brakes about 20 times during the test-drive to seat the brake
pads.
It is possible to use an on-car lathe on some models if the rear caliper mounts are low enough to
clear the vehicle body. A power driver is needed for front drive models. Refinish rear brake discs on
bench-mounted equipment if necessary.
Follow the same guidelines you used for refinishing front brake discs, noting these differences:
^ Mount the brake lathe to the rear knuckle with the Honda 2-Piece Adapter (P/N KWY-1
08102504). You can order the 2-piece adapter through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Disclaimer
Disassembly
Balance Shaft: Service and Repair Disassembly
REMOVE FLYWHEEL OR DRIVE PLATE
Flywheel
Manual Transmission: Remove the eight flywheel bolts, then separate the flywheel from the
crankshaft flange. After installation, tighten the bolts in the sequence shown. 12 x 1.0 mm Bolt
Torque: 105 Nm (10.5 kg-m, 76 lb ft)
Drive Plate
Automatic Transmission: Remove the eight drive plate bolts, then separate the drive plate from the
crankshaft flange. After installation, tighten the bolts in the sequence shown. 12 x 1.0 mm Bolt
Torque: 75 Nm (7.5 kg-m, 54 lb ft)
NOTE: Inspect crankshaft, balance shaft, and connecting rod end play before disassembling block.
Page 3201
1. Remove right quarter trim panel. 2. Remove control unit mounting bolts, then the remove control
unit. When control unit mounting bolts are removed, the control unit's memory
is cleared.
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Page 4803
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 5827
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 949
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4275
REMOVAL
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable, then the positive cable. 3. Remove cover from instrument
panel, then the visor face panel.
4. Remove the four air bag assembly mounting nuts, Fig. 29. 5. Lift air bag assembly from
instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the air bag assembly in the instrument panel, Fig. 29. 2. Adjust air bag position in
instrument panel by loosening the two lower L-bracket mounting nuts. Press air bag assembly
downward and turn
adjusting nuts until they touch the lower part of air bag assembly.
3. Tighten the four air bag assembly mounting nuts, then the two L-bracket nuts. Tighten the
mounting nuts to specifications. 4. Install visor face panel. 5. After completing installation, place
ignition switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for approximately six
seconds, then
lamp should turn Off. If lamp remains illuminated or does not illuminate, a problem in the SRS is
indicated.
6. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures.
Locations
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal B8 (+) and A26 (-). Voltage should read less than 1.0 volt. If
not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP
If there is more than 1.0 volt, inspect for opens in RED/GREEN (+) wire and/or BLACK (-) wire.
^ If there is less than 1.0 volt, replace the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch.
3. Start the engine. turn the steering wheel slowly. Measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+)
and terminal A26 (-) while steering wheel is turning.
Voltage should read battery voltage. If not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP switch and
measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+) and terminal A26 (-). ^
^ If voltage measures less than 1.0 volt, inspect for short in RED/GREEN (+) wire between PGM-FI
ECM and PSP switch and/or substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
Page 4731
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
7. Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws. 8. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the disc to
push it away from the hub.
NOTE: Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
10. Remove the speed sensor wire bracket, then remove the speed sensor from the knuckle.
NOTE: -
- Use ball joint removers, to separate the ball joints from the suspension or steering arm.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 2445
WARNING: Make sure engine is cool before removing throttle body as it is heated with engine
coolant.
1. Remove air intake tube. 2. Remove the throttle cable and, on A/T equipped cars, the A/T throttle
control cable. 3. Remove all vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, and electrical connectors. 4. Remove
the four 8mm nuts and remove the throttle body. 5. Replace throttle body gasket and reverse
above procedure to install. 6. Torque 8mm throttle body nuts to 22 Nm (16 ft-lb). 7. After
reassembly, adjust the throttle cable and, on A/T equipped cars, the A/T throttle control cable.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4668
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Page 2034
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 305
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 5453
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3484
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 3146
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS). Turn ignition switch on.
2. Measure voltage between YELLOW/WHITE (+) terminal and GREEN/WHITE (-) terminal.
Voltage should read approx 5.0 volts. If not, measure
^ If 5.0 volts is not measured, Turn ignition switch off, install test harness between PGM-FI ECM
and harness connector, turn ignition on. measure voltage between terminal D20 (+) and D22 (-), if
5.0 volts is measured, inspect for open in YELLOW/WHITE wire between D20 and TPS connector.
If 5.0 volts is not measured, substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
3. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin connector at the TPS. Install the test harness
between the PGM-FI ECM and the harness
4. Measure voltage between terminal D11 (+) and terminal D22 (-). Voltage should read approx.
0.5 volts at closed throttle position and approx. 4.5
volts at full throttle position with a smooth transition in between. If not, replace TPS with known
good part and retest.
Page 5317
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4818
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
Page 3855
NOTE: ^ The 4W5 indicator light turns on in a narrow range. Do not overlook it. ^ Work with care so
as not to move the rear wheels from this neutral position.
13. Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor slowly counterclockwise, and check the range from
where the light starts to blink, to where it stops. 14. Tighten the rear sub steering angle sensor a
little. Repeat the step 13 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the
range
NOTE: ^ Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor counterclockwise to make the 4WS indicator light
blink. ^ If the rear sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off,
disconnect the connector, and straighten the wire.
15. Tighten the locknut while holding the rear sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
NOTE: Take care not to turn the rear sub steering angle sensor.
16. Disconnect the rear sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire. Reconnect the
connector.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the rear sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
Circuit Schematics
Specifications
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Specifications
Component ..........................................................................................................................................
....................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs. Dash Sensor Mounting Bolts ..............................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 16 Driver Side Air Bag Assembly To Steering Wheel Bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 7.2
Passenger Side Air Bag Mounting Nuts & Bolts ..................................................................................
............................................................................. 7.2 SRS Unit Mounting Bolts .................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.. 7.2 Steering Wheel To Column Steering Shaft Nut ..........................................................................
....................................................................................... 36
Page 4748
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times with the transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Check that the power door
locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode.
7. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on each transmitter. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle) Check that the power door locks cycle after you push each transmitter
button, confirming that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1765
Air/Fuel Mixture: Adjustments
The fuel mixture is controlled by the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI
ECM), and is not adjustable.
Page 758
TIMING BALANCER BELT INSPECTION
1. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the timing belt upper
cover. 4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 5. Remove the timing belt lower cover. 6. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 7. Inspect the timing balancer belt for cracks and oil soaking.
NOTE: -
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 4090
Prelude owners outside the specified geographical areas will be notified that the warranty on the
A/C condenser has been extended to 5 years with no mileage limit, Refer to service bulletin
97-036, Warranty Extension: Prelude Air Conditioning Condenser for details.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the A/C condenser. Replace the receiver/dryer if the refrigerant
has leaked out of the system.
Receiver/dryer:
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 3748
NOTE: ^ The 4W5 indicator light turns on in a narrow range. Do not overlook it. ^ Work with care so
as not to move the rear wheels from this neutral position.
13. Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor slowly counterclockwise, and check the range from
where the light starts to blink, to where it stops. 14. Tighten the rear sub steering angle sensor a
little. Repeat the step 13 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the
range
NOTE: ^ Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor counterclockwise to make the 4WS indicator light
blink. ^ If the rear sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off,
disconnect the connector, and straighten the wire.
15. Tighten the locknut while holding the rear sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
NOTE: Take care not to turn the rear sub steering angle sensor.
16. Disconnect the rear sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire. Reconnect the
connector.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the rear sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3132
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 3375
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open
Fuel Door: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Fuel Fill Door Doesn't Open
MODEL: [NEW] 1994 ACCORD 1992-95 CIVIC (Except del Sol) 1993-94 PRELUDE
Fuel Fill Door Does Not Open (Supersedes 94-020, dated June 24, 1994)
PROBLEM
The fuel fill door does not open far enough to clear the body.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Wagon -ALL
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Align the fuel fill door, and install a spring boot or shim (see PARTS INFORMATION).
1. Check the gap between the fuel fill door and the opening in the quarter panel.
Page 1643
PURPOSE
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends
this information to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM).
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM contains memories for optimum EGR lift during various conditions. It reads
actual EGR position from the lift sensor. The sensor uses a plunger operated potentiometer
supplying a signal to the PGM-FI ECM. If the EGR actual position differs from it's preferred
position, the PGM-FI ECM cuts control solenoid power to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Page 1635
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is mounted inside the distributor housing and is not serviced
separately.
Page 3055
8. Coat a new cup with recommended grease, and install it with its groove facing the bearing A side
of the adjusting bolt. 9. Fit the bearing A, spacer, adjusting spring B and spring cover on the
adjusting bolt, and install them in the caliper cylinder.
10. Install the special tool on the spring cover and turn the shaft until the locknut contacts the plate
11. Check that the flared end of the spring cover is below the circlip groove.
12. Install the circlip in the groove, then remove the special tool.
The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart,
look at the FCC ID on the back.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting
the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The Catalytic Converter is located in the exhaust pipe under the vehicle.
Page 3674
Power Steering Fluid: Fluid Type Specifications
Fluid Type ............................................................................................................................................
....................... Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid
Always use Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or
automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather.
Page 5448
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5166
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 2671
1. Disconnect the connector from the shift control solenoid valve A/B.
2. Measure the resistance between the No.1 terminal (solenoid valve A) of the shift control solenoid
valve connector and body ground and between
3. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if the resistance is out of specification. 4. If the
resistance is within the standard, connect the No. 1 terminal of the shift control solenoid valve
connector to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal. A
clicking sound should be heard. Replace the shift control solenoid valve assembly if no clicking
sound is heard.
Page 4771
2. Remove the armrest pocket.
3. Remove the inner handle trim panel mounting screw. Carefully pry the trim panel outward to
unclip it from the door panel, then slide it backward to unhook it. Disconnect the connectors for the
door lock and window switches, then remove the trim panel.
4. Remove two screws and release the door panel clips with a clip remover. Remove the door
panel by carefully pulling it up.
Page 3634
8. Loosen the locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, back it off about 3/4 turns and connect the
connector. 9. Turn the ignition switch on (engine off
10. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position. Set the front main steering angle sensor
electronically in neutral (4WS indicator light is
NOTE: Hold the steering wheel in this position until adjustment is completed. If the steering wheel
is moved in error, repeat the adjustment procedure starting with step 10.
11. Turn the front sub steering angle sensor slowly clockwise, and check the range from where the
light starts to blink to where it stops. 12. Loosen the front sub steering angle sensor. Repeat the
step 11 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the range from
NOTE: ^ Turn the front sub steering angle sensor clockwise to make the 4WS indicator light blink. ^
If the sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off, disconnect
the connector, and straighten the wire.
13. Tighten the locknut while holding the front sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
Page 5180
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower panel. 3. Disconnect 5-P and 20-P connectors from main wire
harness.
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 11.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 5831
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 199
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3801
6. Reverse procedure to install. If necessary, adjust rack guide as follows: a. Remove gearbox
shield. b. Loosen rack guide locknut with suitable tool, Fig. 5. c. Tighten guide screw until it
compresses spring and lightly seats against guide, then loosen screw. d. Tighten screw to
specifications, then back screw off approximately 1/12 turn (30 degrees). e. Hold position of
adjusting screw and tighten locknut to specifications.
Page 3788
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4264
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Locations
TOE-IN:
This illustration shows view from the top of the vehicle. Toe-in is the measured amount the front
wheels are turn in. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a degree. Toe-in is
measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The purpose of toe-in is
to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections of the wheel support
system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in results in excessive toe-in
and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front end alignment procedure.
Page 2201
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 2028
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Locations
13. Push right end of rack back into cylinder housing so smooth surface that rides against seal will
not be damaged. 14. Check pinion lower bearing for play. If there is no play and grease is
satisfactory, proceed to next step. If bearing is noisy or has excessive play,
proceed as follows: a. Remove snap ring from pinion assembly. b. Using suitable bearing puller,
remove bearing from pinion assembly. c. Press new bearing onto pinion assembly using a suitable
press. d. Install snap ring onto pinion assembly.
15. Remove four bolts from end of cylinder assembly. 16. Remove O-ring back-up ring, steering
rack bushing A, cylinder spring and cylinder end seal from cylinder housing. 17. Remove cylinder,
seal retainer, cylinder cap, steering rack and retainer washer from gear housing.
as follows: a. Remove circlip from pinion holder. b. Remove pinion holder from gear housing. c.
Check needle roller bearings in pinion holder and gear housing for damage. If bearings are
satisfactory, repack with grease. If bearing are worn
d. Check lower ball bearing for damage, if bearing is satisfactory, proceed to next numerical step. If
lower ball bearing is damaged, remove
e. Using driver tool No. 07749-0010000 and attachment tool No. 07746-0010300, or equivalents,
drive new lower bearing into gear housing. f.
g. Install circlip into pinion holder with its tapered side facing outward. Circlip ends must be aligned
with flat area, Fig. 18.
19. Remove cylinder and seal retainer from steering rack. 20. Remove O-ring, snap ring and
cylinder cap from seal retainer. 21. Remove O-rings from cylinder cap, then the bushing stopper
ring from seal retainer. 22. Remove cylinder end seal and rack bushing B from steering rack. 23.
Carefully pry piston seal ring and O-ring off of rack.
Rear
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 313
Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 855
6. Disconnect front passenger air bag 3-P connector from SRS main harness and connect red
short connector, Fig. 7.
Page 5462
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
The Fuel Filter, mounted on the firewall towards the right side of the vehicle, is used to stop dirt,
sand and other foreign matter from entering the fuel injectors.
OPERATION
When the fuel flows under pressure from the fuel pump it passes through the fuel filter assembly.
Dirt, sand and other particles are trapped in the treated paper filter inside the housing. The Filter
element is an integral component of the Fuel Filter housing and they are replaced as an assembly.
Page 1694
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Locations
Distributes secondary voltage from the coil to the correct sparkplug wire and sparkplug.
^ Houses the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
OPERATION
The Distributor, rotating at camshaft speed, allows the secondary voltage to flow from the coil wire
through the cap/rotor to the correct sparkplug wire and plug. It then continually advances the rotor
to align with the next sparkplug wire and plug. It also allows the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor to
accurately Inform the Programmed Ignition Electronic Control Module (PGM-IG ECM) of the
relative positions of the crank, cam and pistons.
Page 5293
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5717
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5185
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 3299
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and that the GR8 is updated to the most current
software. The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim
may not be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for
more information.
5. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
Page 5318
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
VALVE CLEARANCE
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
................... 0.23 - 0.28mm (0.009 - 0.011 inches) Exhaust ...............................................................
.................................................................................................... 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.013
inches)
Page 5782
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 2741
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Page 4132
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 3744
Steering Angle Sensor: Adjustments
SUB STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Before adjusting the sub steering angle sensor, check that the front main steering angle
sensor is adjusted properly.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car. 2. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position.
3. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensors are in the electronic neutral
position when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed
before checking the electronic neutral position.
4. Set the parking brake lever and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the parking
brake indicator light turns on. 5. Turn the ignition switch off.
6. Cut the wire tie from the sub steering angle sensor cover, then remove the cover from the sub
steering angle sensor.
CAUTION: Use care when cutting the wire tie so as not to cut into the wire harness.
7. Remove the sub steering angle sensor wire harness from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
Page 1029
5. Remove the mounting bolts for the brake hose bracket. 6. Remove the caliper mounting bolts
and hang the caliper assembly to one side
CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece
of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage.
7. Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws. 8. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the disc to
push it away from the hub.
NOTE: Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
10. Remove the speed sensor wire bracket, then remove the speed sensor from the knuckle.
NOTE: -
- Use ball joint removers, to separate the ball joints from the suspension or steering arm.
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS). Turn ignition switch on.
2. Measure voltage between YELLOW/WHITE (+) terminal and GREEN/WHITE (-) terminal.
Voltage should read approx 5.0 volts. If not, measure
^ If 5.0 volts is not measured, Turn ignition switch off, install test harness between PGM-FI ECM
and harness connector, turn ignition on. measure voltage between terminal D20 (+) and D22 (-), if
5.0 volts is measured, inspect for open in YELLOW/WHITE wire between D20 and TPS connector.
If 5.0 volts is not measured, substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
3. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin connector at the TPS. Install the test harness
between the PGM-FI ECM and the harness
4. Measure voltage between terminal D11 (+) and terminal D22 (-). Voltage should read approx.
0.5 volts at closed throttle position and approx. 4.5
volts at full throttle position with a smooth transition in between. If not, replace TPS with known
good part and retest.
Page 960
Emissions and Intake Air Control Component Circuits, Part 2 Of 2.
Page 2096
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is integral to the distributor housing and must be replaced as an
assembly.
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
Technician Safety Information
Tires: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: This vehicle has a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). Refer to the SRS
component and wiring location view in order to determine whether you are performing service on or
near the SRS components or the SRS wiring. when you are performing service on or near the SRS
components or the SRS wiring, refer to the SRS service information. failure to follow warnings
could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SRS system
repairs.
A/C - Warranty Extension on Condenser
97-036
Applies To: 1994 Prelude - S from VIN JHMBAS...RC000001 thru RC099999 (except Si, VTEC)
1995 Prelude - S from VIN JHMBA8 ... SC000182 thru SC001963 - Si, SE from VIN JHMBB2 ...
50000356 thru SC004959 - VTEC from VIN JHMBB1 ... SC000109 thru 50001129
BACKGROUND Driving conditions in certain parts of the U.S. may cause the A/C condenser to
corrode, allowing the R-134a refrigerant to leak out. Those conditions are: -
Areas where corrosive road salt is used for snow and ice removal
- Areas where ocean air is combined with high heat and humidity
Condenser corrosion is not likely in areas outside those shown in the Product Update Campaign
service bulletin. In the interests of customer satisfaction, American Honda is extending the warranty
to owners in the non Product Update areas to 5 years with no mileage limit. Refer to the map.
GENERAL INFORMATION Owners living in the shaded area of the map will be notified that the
warranty on the A/C condenser has been extended. They will be advised to contact the dealer for
repair only if the A/C system fails. An example of the customer letter is at the end of this service
bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION If a customer brings in a Prelude in the affected VIN range with an A/C
system failure, diagnose the problem. If the condenser is leaking, replace it and file a warranty
claim using the information given.
Distributes secondary voltage from the coil to the correct sparkplug wire and sparkplug.
^ Houses the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
OPERATION
The Distributor, rotating at camshaft speed, allows the secondary voltage to flow from the coil wire
through the cap/rotor to the correct sparkplug wire and plug. It then continually advances the rotor
to align with the next sparkplug wire and plug. It also allows the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor to
accurately Inform the Programmed Ignition Electronic Control Module (PGM-IG ECM) of the
relative positions of the crank, cam and pistons.
Page 3419
PURPOSE
The Spark Plug creates a spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture by causing the high current of the
secondary circuit to jump the gap to ground.
OPERATION
Paths for this current are through the ground electrode and center electrode across the spark gap.
The spark produced when the current jumps the gap ignites the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. The
temperature range of the spark plug is determined by the length of the insulator and the size of the
heatsink area. The longer the insulator, the smaller the heatsink area , this allows the insulator to
burn off any deposits. A short insulator and large heatsink is used for extended high speed
operation where cylinder temperatures are high, helping reduce preignition. The center electrode
temperature ranges from a low of 392°F (200°C) at 10 m.p.h. to a high of 1472°F (800°C) at 80
m.p.h..
Page 5140
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
3. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to tables, Fig. 31.
Page 4340
4. Torque the two rear seat track bolts to 34 N-m (3.5 kg-m, 25 lb.ft.).
5. Move the seat all the way back; then, with a small brush, apply a high-quality chassis grease to
both sides of the outboard seat track roller.
Page 1997
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, which is mounted center of the firewall, sends a
signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM). the PGM-FI
ECM uses this signal to sense engine load. Ignition timing and fuel delivery can then be adjusted to
maintain optimum engine performance.
OPERATION
The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal and a ground to the sensor. A vacuum line supplies intake
manifold vacuum to a small cavity under the silicon diaphragm which causes the diaphragm to flex.
The flexing of the silicon generates a small voltage which is amplified by the support circuitry and
used to modify the fixed 5 volt signal supplied by the PGM-FI ECM. The modified signal is then
returned to PGM-FI ECM.
Locations
3. Disconnect the air mix control cable from the heater unit, refer to Air Mix Control Cable.
4. Remove the three self-tapping screws. Disconnect the connectors and remove the heater control
panel/center air vent assembly.
5. Remove the two self-tapping screws, and remove the heater control panel from the center air
vent.
6. Install in the reverse order of removal, and refer to Air Mix Control Cable for installation of the air
mix control cable. If necessary, adjust the heater valve cable, refer to Heating and Air
Conditioning/Temperature Control Cable/Adjustments.
Page 441
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor, mounted on the intake manifold facing the firewall on the
driver's side, provides a signal used by the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) to determine intake air temperature for mixture control.
OPERATION
The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the air intake temperature increases. The PGM-FI
ECM uses this decreasing resistance to adjust the length of injector opening time.
Specifications
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Specifications
THROTTLE CABLE
Deflection .............................................................................................................................................
............................ 10 - 12mm (0.39 - 0.47 in)
Page 4978
6. Clean seal seating surfaces thoroughly, apply a light coat of oil to crankshaft and lip of seal and
position seal with part number side facing out.
7. Drive seal until it bottoms against block using suitable seal installer tool.
8. Install oil pan and then install engine and transmission assembly in vehicle.
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 1610
PURPOSE
The Ignition Control Module (ICM), located in the distributor assembly, triggers the Ignition Coil,
allowing stored energy to be released in the form of a high-tension pulse through the secondary
windings.
OPERATION
As the Programmed Ignition Electronic Control Module (PGM-IG ECM) computes a timing setting,
based on the signals from the various sensors, the value is converted into a control signal for the
ICM. The ICM interrupts the current in the ignition coil primary windings at the correct time, allowing
stored energy to be released in the form of a high-tension pulse through the secondary windings.
Page 5457
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 4287
Fig. 32 Aligning Able Reel & Cancelling Sleeve Projections
1. Align canceling sleeve grooves and cable reel projections, Fig. 32. 2. Install the cable reel to
steering column. 3. Install cable reel 6-P electrical connector holder, Fig. 31. 4. Install steering
column covers.
5. Center the cable reel by rotating clockwise until stop is contacted. Rotate the cable reel
counterclockwise, approximately two turns, until yellow
Locations
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 1623
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 2335
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 2501
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 14, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, a system malfunction is indicated.
Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Testing and Inspection/Initial Inspection and
Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Page 5633
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 2340
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5467
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3652
18. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the special tool from the rear actuator, and install the cap
bolt and the new sealing washer on the rear
actuator.
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Locations
2. Remove the rear cover plate from the changer, and look for a jammed disc.
3. If a disc is jammed between the player and the magazine, turn the loading gear until the disc
returns to the player mechanism. Do not attempt to reload the disc back into the magazine.
4. After the disc is loaded into the player mechanism, turn the changer so that the front is facing
you.
Page 425
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral 7. After
adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Service and Repair
Turn Signal Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 4.
Remove steering column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6.
Remove two switch attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse
procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to
Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 2487
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
DISASSEMBLY
Page 5024
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Locations
PURPOSE
The Air Cleaner, mounted on the right fender, traps dirt and other contaminants before they have a
chance to enter the engine.
OPERATION
Air is drawn through the air intake tube, filtered by the Air Cleaner, then passes through the air flow
tube into the air intake chamber and finally into the throttle body. There is also a resonator chamber
connected to the air intake tube which helps reduce airflow noise as air is drawn into the system.
Page 3138
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5186
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 774
Balance Shaft Belt: Service and Repair
TIMING BALANCER BELT REPLACEMENT
NOTE: -
- Take care not to bend the cable when removing the actuator. Always replace a kinked cable with
a new one.
Page 1875
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
The Main Relay, located under the left side of the dashboard, supplies power to the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), injectors and supplies power to the fuel
pump for 2 seconds for starting purposes.
OPERATION
The first relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the
PGM-FI ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
^ The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and
also energized when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Sensor voltage at operating temperature
At 3000 RPM........................................................................................................................................
............................................................0.5 Volts During deceleration from 3000 RPM.........................
...........................................................................................................................Below 0.5 Volts
Page 166
Steering Control Module: Testing and Inspection
Page 1962
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 377
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 3683
As the car is driven, the rotors start turning and the fluid returns to the reservoir, reducing the fluid
pressure at the gain control valve. Therefore, the gain control valve begins to move to the right.
The orifice resistance on the pump and reservoir sides is appropriately balanced, with the result
that the reaction chamber is in the medium range and the steering resistance is moderate.
When the car is moving at high speed, the sensor reduces the pressure further and the gain control
valve moves further to the right. The orifice pressure on the pump side is low and the pressure on
the reservoir side is high, the fluid pressure in the reaction chamber is also high giving the steering
wheel less assist.
One-way Valve (In Power Steering Speed Sensor)
Page 642
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Page 2226
INSPECTION
1. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Turn the ignition switch
on. 2. Measure the voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW terminal and the BLACK terminal on the
harness side of the connector. Voltage should read
approx. 5.0 volts. (If not, inspect no. 23 fuse (15A) in under dash fuse box).
3. Reconnect the three pin connector. Block rear wheels. Set park brake. Raise front of car and
support with safety stands. 4. Carefully back probe the ORANGE wire and connect it to chassis
ground THROUGH A VOLTMETER. 5. Block right front wheel. Slowly rotate left front wheel by
hand. Voltage should pulse between 12.0 volts and 0.0 volts. If voltage does not pulse,
replace VSS.
Page 3957
1. Determine which rear hub bearing assembly has failed, and replace it with the correct one listed
under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to section 18 of the appropriate service manual for
instructions.
2. Install a new spindle nut, and tighten it to the correct torque specification. Use a drift to stake the
spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.
3. Install new bearing hub caps on both sides.
NOTE:
Both bearing caps must be replaced; otherwise the bearings may fail again in the future.
Page 3284
Password: hondagr8
4. You should see an image of the GR8 tester. Click on the highlighted Update Software link under
the image.
5. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the GR8 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
6. You should see the image of the GR8 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda GR8
Software Update link.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
*9. The Midtronics Update Wizard appears. Refer to SOFTWARE INFORMATION to find the
current software version.*
Locations
WARNING: -
Store a removed airbag assembly with the pad face up. If the airbag is improperly stored with the
pad face down, accidental deployment could propel the unit with enough force to cause serious
injury.
- All SRS wire harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Before you disconnect any part of an
SRS wire harness, connect the short connectors.
- Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or has been turned OFF for less than three minutes, be
careful not to bump the SRS unit; the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or
injuries.
- removing the No.43 (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable. 2. Recover the
refrigerant.
3. Remove the bolt and disconnect the receiver line from the evaporator. 4. Remove the nut and
disconnect the suction line from the evaporator.
CAUTION: Cap the open fittings immediately to keep moisture out of the system.
5. Remove the right tweeter from the dashboard, then remove the visor and black face panel.
Page 1728
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal D12 (+) and terminal D22 (-).
^ With no vacuum applied to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve, voltage should read
approx. 1.2 volts.
^ With 8 in. hg. of vacuum applied to the EGR Valve, voltage should read approx. 4.3 volts.
3. If voltage is not read or voltage reading does not change when vacuum is applied to the EGR
Valve, replace the EGR Valve and Lift Sensor
assembly.
Preliminary Checks
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Checks
INSPECTION
Before making any adjustments affecting caster, camber or toe-in, the following front end
inspection should be made. 1. Inspect the tires for proper inflation pressure. 2. Inspect the front
wheel bearings for proper adjustment. 3. inspect the ball joints and tie rod ends. If excessive
looseness is noted, correct before adjusting. 4. Inspect the wheel and tires for run-out. 5. Inspect
the trim height. If not within specifications, the correction must be made before adjusting caster. 6.
Inspect the steering unit for looseness at the frame. 7. Inspect shock absorbers for leaks or any
noticeable noise. 8. Inspect the control arms or stabilizer bar attachment for looseness. 9. Inspect
the front end alignment using alignment equipment. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral 7. After
adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 3223
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Testing and Inspection
Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Drain cooling system and remove cooling fan temp switch from the thermostat housing. 2.
Connect suitable ohmmeter between sensor terminals. 3. Heat thermo sensor in suitable solution
while observing ohmmeter. 4. Meter should indicate continuity when temperature reaches
190-0.03degreesF. 5. Allow sensor to cool while observing meter. Meter should indicate no
continuity as temperature drops below approximately 182-188degreesF. 6. If sensor fails to operate
as outlined, sensor is defective.
Page 2507
PURPOSE
The Ignition Control Module (ICM), located in the distributor assembly, triggers the Ignition Coil,
allowing stored energy to be released in the form of a high-tension pulse through the secondary
windings.
OPERATION
As the Programmed Ignition Electronic Control Module (PGM-IG ECM) computes a timing setting,
based on the signals from the various sensors, the value is converted into a control signal for the
ICM. The ICM interrupts the current in the ignition coil primary windings at the correct time, allowing
stored energy to be released in the form of a high-tension pulse through the secondary windings.
Page 4029
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 4042
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
The Coil Wire connects the Ignition Coil to the Distributor cap. The spark plug wires connect the
terminals in the distributor cap to the spark plugs , allowing high voltage to flow to the spark plugs.
The wires have an internal resistance to suppress radio static.
Page 4179
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Locations
WARNING: The accumulator contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do not puncture, expose to
flame or attempt to disassemble the accumulator
or it may explode.
1. Secure accumulator in a vise with relief plug pointing straight up, Fig. 84. 2. Slowly turn plug 3
1/2 turns and wait three minutes for all pressure to escape. 3. Remove plug completely and
dispose of accumulator unit.
Page 3405
Power Distribution
Page 4394
Page 5670
SYMPTOM
The blower motor makes a high pitched-noise after running for 15 to 30 minutes on speed 2 or 3.
The frequency of the noise is very high and, therefore, not audible to everyone.
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1994 Accord
1HGCD5...RA161285
1992-94 Civic
JHMEG8...RS017038 JHMEH9...RS014811
1HGEJ...RL030207 2HGEJ...RH553868
1992-94 Prelude
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 4362
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5225
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Specifications
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. AF
CAPACITY, Refill*:
Accord .................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
Prelude ................................................................................................................................................
.......................................... 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
*With the engine at operating temperature, shift transmission through all gears. Turn engine off and
check fluid level within 1 minute.
Mainshaft Speed Sensor
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
1. On models equipped with air bag, center the cable reel as follows:
a. Rotate cable reel clockwise until it stops. b. Rotate cable reel counterclockwise (approximately
two turns) until yellow gear tooth lines up with alignment mark on cover, or arrow mark on
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1405
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 1578
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 4092
7. Start the engine, run the air conditioner, and test the air temperature at the vents. If the system is
blowing warm air, troubleshoot and repair the system before continuing.
8. Go to REPAIR COMPLETION.
Repair Completion
2. Center punch a completion mark above the third character (M) of the engine compartment VIN.
May 1997
We are sending you this letter to notify you of a potential problem with your Honda.
The air conditioning condenser may corrode if the car is regularly driven in at least one of the
following conditions. -
Corrosion may perforate the condenser, causing the refrigerant to leak out. Your air conditioner will
then no longer cool or dehumidify
Call the local Honda dealer and make an appointment to have your car repaired. They will replace
the air conditioning condenser with an improved part. They will also recharge the air conditioning
system with refrigerant if it has leaked out. This work will be done free of charge. Please plan to
leave your car at the dealer for at least half a day to allow them flexibility in scheduling.
What to do if you feel this notice is in error. This notice was mailed to you according to the most
current information we have available. If you no longer own this Prelude, or some information in
this notice is incorrect, please fill out and return the enclosed, postage paid Information Change
Card. This will help us update our records.
If you have questions about this notice, or need assistance with contacting a Honda dealer, please
call the Honda Consumer Affairs Department at (800) 999-1009.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Disassemble one or all parts of rocker arm assembly as necessary, Fig. 29. Prior to removal,
identify all parts so they can be installed in their original locations.
When removing or installing rocker arm assembly, do not remove camshaft holder bolts. The bolts
will keep the holders, springs and rocker arms on the shaft. When reassembling, fit the projection
on the intake rocker shaft to the notch in the camshaft holder.
Page 5777
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5837
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
17. Tighten the bolts and nuts in the sequence shown, to 14 Nm (1.4 kg-m, 10 lb ft).
NOTE: Tighten the bolts and nuts in two steps and torque them in a criss-cross pattern.
Photo 10
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 3644
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 1985
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
VALVE CLEARANCE
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
................... 0.23 - 0.28mm (0.009 - 0.011 inches) Exhaust ...............................................................
.................................................................................................... 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.013
inches)
Page 5649
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
The Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor, mounted on and driven by the throttle body unit, is used by the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to detect throttle movement
and position.
OPERATION
A 5 volt reference signal is applied from the PGM-FI ECM and a ground signal. When the throttle is
opened the sensor resistance changes which is read as a varying voltage signal. At idle position
the sensor voltage is approx. 0.5 Volts and at full throttle approx. 4.5 Volts.
Page 5128
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
7. Install the new sleeve set (synchro ring, hub, and sleeve) on the mainshaft.
8. Reassemble the rest of the removed parts on the mainshaft. Refer to the appropriate service
manual for the correct reassembly procedure.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Description and Operation
Power Steering Pump Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
Power Steering Speed Sensor
The power steering speed sensor is a trochoid-rotor, hydraulic pump combined with a relief valve
and a one- way valve. It is driven by the speedometer gear shaft which in turn is driven by a helical
gear on the differential. The power steering speed sensor turns only when the car is moving,
controlling the gain control valve.
The constant pressure is generated by the pressure control valve. This pressure is used as a
reference pressure for the response to the car's speed. By introducing this pressure to the power
steering speed sensor through the sensor orifice, the pressure downstream of the orifice is
changed according to the speed of the car.
With the engine running at idle in a parked car, fluid flow through the sensor rotors is blocked
because the rotors are not turning. Therefore the gain control valve moves to the left. On the gain
control valve, the orifice resistance is high on pump side, while it is low on the reservoir side, with
the result that pressure in the reaction chamber is lowered and steering assist is high.
Page 1953
INSPECTION
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
Page 4822
Power Door Locks- Motors
Page 4837
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 2392
6. Align the center line on the injector with the mark on the fuel pipe. 7. Install and tighten the
retainer nuts. 8. If removed, reinstall IAC Valve. 9. Connect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose
to the pressure regulator.
10. Connect the hose to the fuel pipe and tighten the retainer nut to 22 Nm (16 ft.lb.) 11. Install the
electrical connectors to the injectors. 12. Turn the ignition switch ON but do not attempt to start the
engine. After the fuel pump runs for approximately two seconds, the fuel pressure rises.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
IDLE SPEED
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 4520
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 5630
Fuse Details Schematics
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
IDLE SPEED
To signal the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to increase idle
speed when the demand for cooling from the air conditioning system causes the idle to drop.
OPERATION
When the air conditioning is operated a signal is sent to the PGM-FI ECM which then commands
the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) to raise the idle speed compensating for the increased engine load.
Page 74
Fuse Number And Protected Circuit
Page 2843
1. Remove set ring, intermediate shaft outer seal and external clip, Fig. 8. 2. Using press and hub
disassemble base tool No. 07GAF-SD40700, or equivalent, press intermediate shaft out of shaft
bearing. 3. Remove internal circlip. 4. Using press and driver tool No. 07749-0010000, attachment
tool No. 07746-0010200, and hub disassemble base tool No. 07GAF-SD40700, or
5. Using press and driver tool No. 07749-0010000, attachment tool No. 07746-0010400 and hub
assembly base tool No. 07GAF-SD40700, or
6. Seat internal circlip in groove of bearing support. 7. Using press and attachment tool No.
07746-0.030400 and hub assembly base tool No. 07GAF-SD40700, or equivalents, press
intermediate shaft
bearing support.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 5906
Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 3. Remove steering column covers. 4.
Disconnect 8-P connector, then remove wiper/washer switch. 5. Reverse procedure to install. 6. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 5275
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
NOTE: Install the timing belt with the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression
stroke.
20. Perform the timing belt tension adjustment. 21. Tighten the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt to lock the timing
belt adjuster arm. 22. Make sure the crankshaft is positioned with the No. 1 cylinder at TDC.
Page 5232
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Page 1712
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 5489
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 309
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
4WS Control Unit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3708
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Purge Control Solenoid Valve is used to
control vacuum to the EVAP Control Diaphragm Valve.
OPERATION
Upon receiving a signal from the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI
ECM) the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve applies vacuum to the EVAP Control Diaphragm
Valve and canister purging is accomplished by drawing fresh air through the canister and into a
port on the throttle body.
NOTE: 5 seconds after engine start, the purge control solenoid valve remains off until coolant
temperature warms above 75°C (167°F).
Page 1539
Catalytic Converter: Testing and Inspection
VISUAL INSPECTION
1. Visually inspect exterior of converter. If severe damage is noted, such as dented, crushed or
rusted out shell, replace converter. 2. Whenever converter is removed from vehicle, Shine a light
through the outlet, observe through the converter to determine if the converter is
3. Gently shake the catalytic converter and listen for signs of loose components. 4. If element is
clogged, melted or otherwise damaged, replace converter.
1. Run the engine at 2,500 rpm for approximately 2 minutes to heat catalytic converter to operating
temperature. 2. Connect a surface temperature probe on exhaust inlet of catalytic converter and
measure temperature. 3. Connect surface temperature probe on exhaust outlet of catalytic
converter and measure temperature. 4. There should be at least 100°F (38° C) increase in
temperature from the inlet to the outlet. 5. If temperature differential is less than specified, catalytic
converter should be replaced.
1. Install exhaust backpressure tester in place of Oxygen sensor (or CO test pipe). 2. With engine
idling at normal operating temperature, the gauge reading should not exceed 8.6 kPa (1.25 psi). 3.
Increase engine speed to 2000 rpm. Gauge reading should not exceed 20.7 kPa (3 psi). 4. If
backpressure at either speed exceeds specification, a restricted exhaust system is indicated. 5.
Inspect exhaust system for a collapsed pipe, heat distress or possible internal muffler failure. 6. If
no obvious reasons for excessive exhaust system backpressure are found, suspect a restricted
catalytic converter. 7. After completing test, coat threads of oxygen sensor (if removed) with
anti-seize compound prior to reinstallation.
Page 2458
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS). Turn ignition switch on.
2. Measure voltage between YELLOW/WHITE (+) terminal and GREEN/WHITE (-) terminal.
Voltage should read approx 5.0 volts. If not, measure
^ If 5.0 volts is not measured, Turn ignition switch off, install test harness between PGM-FI ECM
and harness connector, turn ignition on. measure voltage between terminal D20 (+) and D22 (-), if
5.0 volts is measured, inspect for open in YELLOW/WHITE wire between D20 and TPS connector.
If 5.0 volts is not measured, substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
3. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin connector at the TPS. Install the test harness
between the PGM-FI ECM and the harness
4. Measure voltage between terminal D11 (+) and terminal D22 (-). Voltage should read approx.
0.5 volts at closed throttle position and approx. 4.5
volts at full throttle position with a smooth transition in between. If not, replace TPS with known
good part and retest.
Page 1165
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 1579
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5097
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Crankshaft Removal
10. Remove the rod caps/bearings and main caps/bearings. Keep all caps/bearings in order. 11.
Lift the crankshaft out of the engine, being careful not to damage journals.
12. Remove the bolts and the retainer, then remove the front balancer shaft and the rear balancer
shaft. 13. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods and set them aside with their
respective caps. 14. Reinstall the main caps and bearings on the engine in proper order.
15. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a
ridge reamer. Follow the reamer manufacturer's
instructions.
Page 4138
Fans (With A/C) S Models
Page 3285
* NOTE:
If the wrong software file appears or is not shown, click Change MUP File, and select the correct
software version.*
10. Turn on the GR8, and follow the Update Wizard on-screen instructions.
11. When the update is complete, the Update Results screen appears, indicating the update was
successful. Click Finish to close the Update Wizard.
12. Turn the GR8 off for 10 seconds. Reinstall the SD card, then turn the GR8 on, and confirm that
the software is updated to the software version
13. If an error message appears anytime during the update, follow the on-screen instructions, and
try updating the GR8 again. If the error message still
does not go away, or if you have any problems updating the GR8, call Midtronics.
14. If you have more than one GR8, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
15. Once all GR8s are updated, store the USB-to-mini-USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
Page 1964
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 1429
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 4481
2. Remove the rear cover plate from the changer, and look for a jammed disc.
3. If a disc is jammed between the player and the magazine, turn the loading gear until the disc
returns to the player mechanism. Do not attempt to reload the disc back into the magazine.
4. After the disc is loaded into the player mechanism, turn the changer so that the front is facing
you.
Page 3862
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Rear Strut
Removal
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove rear wheel(s). 2. Remove trunk side trim, then
the strut upper mounting bolts. 3. Remove knuckle protector, then the cotter pin and upper ball joint
nut. 4. Install 10 mm hex nut on ball joint.
Ensure nut is flush with ball joint pin end to prevent damage to threaded section of ball joint pin.
5. Using ball joint remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00200, or equivalent, separate ball joint from
knuckle. 6. Remove damper mounting bolt, then lower rear suspension and remove strut assembly.
7. Using suitable spring compressor, compress damper spring enough to remove damper
assembly self-locking nut.
Page 4577
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
loosening.
38. Install the knuckle on the lower arm and the tie-rod, then tighten the castle nuts and install new
cotter pins. 39. Install the knuckle on the upper arm, then tighten the castle nut and install a new
cotter pin.
41. Install the speed sensor with the sensor mounting bolts.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 5558
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 3492
Power Distribution
Page 1973
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 1312
2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. 4. Loosen the adjusting nut
2/3-1 turn, then tighten it. 5. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3 teeth on the camshaft pulley,
then reloosen the adjusting nut to create tension on the timing belt. 6. Tighten the adjusting nut to
specifications:
Throttle Body With Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Adj. Screw Location.
Page 4347
Fuse Details Schematics
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 3593
Alignment: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Bearing End Play
Runout
Runout
Standard:
Steel Wheel: 0 - 1.0 mm (0 - 0.04 in) Aluminum Wheel: 0 - 0.7 mm (0 - 0.03 in)
Page 1669
PURPOSE
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is used to determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder
for sequential fuel injection, normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also
detects engine RPM.
OPERATION
The unit is made up of three separate sensors mounted inside the distributor. The Top Dead
Center (TDC) Sensor, the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, and the Cylinder Position (CYP)
Sensor. All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition
timing and to calculate engine RPM. ^
The TDC sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also
used as a backup signal in the event the CYP sensor signal becomes abnormal.
^ The CYP sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper
timing of the sequential fuel injection system for each cylinder.
^ The CKP sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects
engine speed.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 3766
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve. The EGR Valve
is located at the right corner of the intake manifold near the ignition distributor.
Page 5709
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Clutch - Creaking Pedal
Clutch Pedal Assembly: All Technical Service Bulletins Clutch - Creaking Pedal
1994-96 ACCORD
Applicable To ALL
Creaking From the Clutch Pedal (Supersedes 95-025, dated May 8, 1995)
SYMPTOM
The coils of the clutch pedal assist spring are rubbing against each other.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
[NEW] Replace the clutch pedal assist spring with the new spring listed under PARTS
INFORMATION.
[NEW] 3. Install the new spring by putting the ends into the bushings, then depress the clutch pedal
and install the center of the spring into the clutch
pedal bushing.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5631
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
System Bleeding
Park vehicle on level ground with wheels blocked. When bleeding brakes, put manual transaxle in
the Neutral position and automatic transaxle in the Park position.
1. With ignition switch Off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on the
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
4. Bleed high pressure fluid from maintenance bleeder with bleeder wrench tool No.
07HAA-SG00101, or equivalent, Fig. 9.
5. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 6. Turn mode selector switch on
checker to 2. 7. While depressing brake pedal firmly, push start test switch to operate modulator.
There should be kickback on brake pedal. If there is no kickback,
8. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 3, 4 and 5. At each test mode position, refill modulator
reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 9. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and
install reservoir cap. Disconnect ALB checker before driving car. A collision can result from a
CAUTION:
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
1. Place the vehicle on level ground with the wheels blocked. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL for
manual transmission models, and in PARK
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 2321
Fuel Filter: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Fuel Filter, mounted on the firewall towards the right side of the vehicle, is used to stop dirt,
sand and other foreign matter from entering the fuel injectors.
OPERATION
When the fuel flows under pressure from the fuel pump it passes through the fuel filter assembly.
Dirt, sand and other particles are trapped in the treated paper filter inside the housing. The Filter
element is an integral component of the Fuel Filter housing and they are replaced as an assembly.
Page 1414
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 1216
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 4764
11. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the harness clip from the door.
12. Remove the three mounting screws, then remove the latch assembly from the door.
13. Remove the key cylinder lock rod. Install the new rod listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
14. Reinstall the latch assembly in the door. Reconnect the lock rod to the crank, and the inner
handle rod to the inner handle.
15. Install the harness clip in the door and reconnect the electrical connector.
17. Screw the outer handle onto the rod. Use your measurement from step 8 to position the rod.
Connect the key cylinder lock rod to the outer handle. Install the outer handle in the door (2 bolts, 1
clip). Remove the protective tape.
18. Reinstall the rod protector and the access hole seal.
20. Install the power door lock fuse in the under-hood fuse box (if removed by customer). Connect
the electrical connectors for the power windows and door locks to the inner handle trim panel.
Verify the operation of the window and door locks.
21. Disconnect the electrical connectors to the inner handle trim panel. Install the door panel (2
screws).
22. Reconnect the electrical connectors, then install the inner handle trim panel in the door panel.
Reinstall the armrest pocket.
Page 3246
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 2373
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Testing and Inspection
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from the work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the engine is OFF.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
3. Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the fuel pipe, while holding the special banjo
bolt with another wrench. 4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY
loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn.
INSPECTION
1. Remove the service bolt on the fuel pipe while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench and
attach the fuel pressure gauge. 2. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with engine idling
and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. 3. Pressure should read 255 -
305 kpa (36 - 43 psi). 4. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 5. Pressure
should read 195 - 245 kpa (28 - 35 psi). 6. If the fuel pressure does not rise when vacuum hose is
disconnected, verify vacuum exists at vacuum hose and replace Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Locations
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve. The EGR Valve
is located at the right corner of the intake manifold near the ignition distributor.
Page 2338
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 3778
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
4-Way Valve
Control Valve Body Unit: Description and Operation 4-Way Valve
4-Way Valve
Mounted on the lower side of the gearbox is a 4-way valve that is moved horizontally by a pin on
the pinion holder to shift fluid pressure to the right or left side of the power cylinder when the
steering wheel is turned.
It has thrust pins at both ends, and two inter-connected reaction chambers, one on each side.
Each reaction chamber contains a pair of spring-loaded plungers that rise against right and left
thrust pins. The valve body fluid passages are controlled by the 4-way valve.
Fluid pressure in the reaction chambers is reduced by the gain control valve in order to change the
amount of the assist in accordance with the change in the car's speed.
Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Page 3889
5. Remove the mounting bolts for the brake hose bracket. 6. Remove the caliper mounting bolts
and hang the caliper assembly to one side
CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece
of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage.
7. Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws. 8. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the disc to
push it away from the hub.
NOTE: Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
10. Remove the speed sensor wire bracket, then remove the speed sensor from the knuckle.
NOTE: -
- Use ball joint removers, to separate the ball joints from the suspension or steering arm.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5262
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 91
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 4838
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 2207
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 2939
1. Remove the 6 mm bolt from the transmission housing and remove the mainshaft and
countershaft speed sensors. 2. Replace the 0-ring with a new one before reassembling the
mainshaft and countershaft speed sensors.
Page 3710
IG SW: Ignition Switch ACC: Accessory (1 position) The normal voltage is the value when the
system is working properly.
Page 5687
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system. 3. Snap open cable clip, then
disconnect heater valve cable from heater valve. 4. Disconnect heater hoses at heater, then
remove two heater unit mounting nuts from engine compartment side. 5. Remove instrument panel
as described in Dash Panel Service section. 6. Remove heat duct or evaporator. 7. Remove two
heater mounting bolts, then the heater assembly.
8. Remove heater assembly and defroster duct, Fig. 19. 9. Remove pipe clamp and core clamp
attaching screws.
10. Pull heater core from heater housing. Ensure care is taken not to bend inlet and outlet pipes
during removal. 11. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Do not interchange inlet and outlet hoses. b. Connect all cables and ensure they are properly
adjusted.
12. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Page 1074
Oil Pump
9. Apply liquid gasket to the block mating surface of the oil pump, then install it on the engine block.
Torque the 6 x 1.0 mm bolts to 12 Nm (1.2
kg-m, 9 lb ft).
- Apply grease to the lips of the oil pump seal and the balancer seal. Then, install the oil pump
inner rotor onto the crankshaft. When the pump is in place, clean any excess grease off the
crankshaft and the balancer shaft, then check that the oil seal lips are not distorted.
10. Install the baffle plate, then install the oil screen. Torque the 6 x 1.0 mm bolts to 12 Nm (1.2
kg-m, 9 lb ft).
Page 116
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Page 2179
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), located rear of the transmission on the differential, is used by
the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to determine vehicle
speed and by the speedometer to drive the trip odometer/mileage odometer stepper motors and
the speedometer driver to indicate vehicle speed.
OPERATION
The speed sensor pulses the signal wire, switching its connection to ground on and off. The
number of pulses increasing with vehicle speed. This signal is used to operate the stepper motors
for the trip/mileage odometer, and the speedometer driver to indicate vehicle speed. This same
signal is used by the PGM-FI ECM to determine vehicle speed for PGM-FI operation.
Page 259
PURPOSE
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, located in the cylinder head just below the
distributor, delivers an electrical signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) allowing it to adjust the length of injector opening time required by the engine for
optimum performance at all engine temperatures.
OPERATION
As water temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The PGM-FI ECM receives sensor
information as resistance to ground. Coolant temperature information is used by the PGM-FI ECM
to determine proper fuel delivery.
Interior - Cup Holder Does Not Stay Closed
Drink Holders: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Cup Holder Does Not Stay Closed
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Reposition the hinge pin, and replace the latch pin with the new part listed under PARTS
INFORMATION.
1. Remove the cup holder from the console by pulling up on the inside of the cup holder with your
fingers.
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1. 5. Remove glove compartment.
Page 4669
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1. 5. Remove glove compartment.
Page 1416
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 3971
19. Remove the cotter pin and lower arm ball joint nut. 20. Install a 14 mm hex nut on the ball joint.
Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint
pin
21. Use the bail joint remover to separate the ball joint and lower arm.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
22. Remove the knuckle protector. 23. Remove the cotter pin and the upper ball joint nut. 24. Install
a 10 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the
threaded section of the ball joint pin
25. Use the ball joint remover to separate the ball joint and knuckle.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
26. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle using a
plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle.
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 3743
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3367
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 5269
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 4016
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 2701
1. Remove the 6 mm bolt from the transmission housing and remove the mainshaft and
countershaft speed sensors. 2. Replace the 0-ring with a new one before reassembling the
mainshaft and countershaft speed sensors.
Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
(Axle) Spindle Nut Torque: ..................................................................................................................
................................................ 181 ft.lbs. (250 Nm)
Page 367
Headlamp Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3531
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
REASSEMBLY
Rotor Positioning
1. Install the rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (toward the No. 1 cylinder).
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5082
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 3829
Ball Joint: Testing and Inspection
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Grasp tire at top and bottom. 3. Shake tire back and forth, check
for any side to side movement in ball joint. 4. Replace ball joint if there is any side to side
movement.
Page 2198
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 1298
Page 168
1. Remove the rear seat back. 2. Disconnect the terminal wires and connectors from the control
unit. 3. Remove the control unit. 4. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: Turn the ignition switch ON and check the 4WS indicator light operation.
Page 1894
PURPOSE
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, located in the cylinder head just below the
distributor, delivers an electrical signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) allowing it to adjust the length of injector opening time required by the engine for
optimum performance at all engine temperatures.
OPERATION
As water temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The PGM-FI ECM receives sensor
information as resistance to ground. Coolant temperature information is used by the PGM-FI ECM
to determine proper fuel delivery.
Page 474
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 2938
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Page 3789
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Throttle Body With Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Adj. Screw Location.
Page 5388
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 3307
DTC: Enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic Trouble Code fields in the warranty
claim.
Warranty Requirements
^ Only batteries that are Original Equipment (factory-installed) or supplied by AHM Parts are
covered by the Original Equipment Battery Limited Warranty.
^ No battery warranty claim will be accepted without the 10-digit test code from the ED-18 Battery
Analyzer or the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station.
^ Enter the 10-digit test code into the Warranty Claim DTC fields one and two.
^ The battery tester print-out stating Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace must be attached to the
related repair order or the warranty claim will not be approved.
^ All batteries replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag attached to it.
^ If you have a battery under warranty that needs replacement for a non-electrical defect (like a
cracked case) and the battery tester does not display Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, contact
your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) for help.
*^ The battery claim will be returned to your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2081 if the
tester printout does not state Replace Battery or Bad
Cell Replace.
^ A battery claim will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2082 if the
technician entered the CCA (from the ED-18 Rating field or the GR8 Test Info field) that does not
match the factory-installed battery or the AHM Parts replacement battery CCA. Make sure the CCA
matches the model and model year on the iN (Interactive Network). Go to Service > Service Library
> Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ The ED-18 and GR8 must have the most current software version. Honda policy states that you
must update your tools within 3 days of being notified that an update is available. A battery claim
will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2083 if a repair order (RO) date is
Page 529
PURPOSE
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is used to determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder
for sequential fuel injection, normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also
detects engine RPM.
OPERATION
The unit is made up of three separate sensors mounted inside the distributor. The Top Dead
Center (TDC) Sensor, the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, and the Cylinder Position (CYP)
Sensor. All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition
timing and to calculate engine RPM. ^
The TDC sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also
used as a backup signal in the event the CYP sensor signal becomes abnormal.
^ The CYP sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper
timing of the sequential fuel injection system for each cylinder.
^ The CKP sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects
engine speed.
Page 570
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5471
Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), voltage is applied to the A/T gear position
indicator. The A/T gear position switch provides a ground for each position. As an input is
grounded, its indicator light comes ON. If you select H, for example, ground will be applied to the
input of the A/T gear position indicator, and the H indicator bulb will come ON.
With the headlight switch in PARK or HEAD, voltage is applied to the RED/BLK wire terminal. this
changes the indicator panel illumination from fixed to controlled by the dash lights dimmer input
through the RED or RED/YEL wire.
When the Transmission Control Module (TCM) detects an abnormality in the automatic
transmission control system, or when you request diagnostic trouble codes through the service
check connector the TCM will make the D4 indicator light blink.
General Description
Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
"Front End Alignment" refers to the angular relationship between the front wheels, the front
suspension attaching parts and the ground. Proper front end alignment must be maintained in
order to insure efficient steering, good directional stability and to prevent abnormal tire wear. The
most important factors of front end alignment are wheel toe-in, wheel camber and axle caster.
CAMBER:
Camber is the vertical tilting inward or outward of the front wheels. When the wheels tilt outward at
the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is negative
(-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle (1). If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
CASTER:
This illustration shows view from the side of the vehicle. Caster (1) is the vertical tilting of the wheel
axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is
positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the short and long arm type suspension you cannot
see a caster angle without a special instrument, but if you look straight down from the top of the
upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle
other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle, the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead
(toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint center line.
Page 3069
3. Attach the driveshaft on the drive motor assembly to the mounting yoke, making sure the center
line of the driveshaft is level with the spindle nut on
the wheel hub.
4. Set the lower toggle switch on the drive motor assembly to FWD (counterclockwise rotation) or
REV (clockwise rotation).
Use Kwik-Way cutting bits, P/N KWY-109109223, and the holding screws that come with them.
These bits are stamped KW and are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Before you use the brake lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make
sure the tips are not worn out. Each bit has three tips. If a tip is worn, rotate the bit, and use a new
tip. A worn tip produces a poor finish and may cause chattering.
Page 1512
PURPOSE
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, located in the cylinder head just below the
distributor, delivers an electrical signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) allowing it to adjust the length of injector opening time required by the engine for
optimum performance at all engine temperatures.
OPERATION
As water temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The PGM-FI ECM receives sensor
information as resistance to ground. Coolant temperature information is used by the PGM-FI ECM
to determine proper fuel delivery.
Page 112
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor, mounted on the intake manifold facing the firewall on the
driver's side, provides a signal used by the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) to determine intake air temperature for mixture control.
OPERATION
The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the air intake temperature increases. The PGM-FI
ECM uses this decreasing resistance to adjust the length of injector opening time.
Page 5617
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 1859
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 5059
1. Obtain five-digit radio theft protection code number. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable, then the
positive cable.
3. After disconnecting cables, wait at least three minutes with ignition turned Off before
disconnecting any SRS electrical connectors. This
4. Remove steering wheel access panel and disconnect electrical connector located between air
bag and cable reel, Fig. 1. 5. Remove glove compartment.
Specifications
Radiator Cap: Specifications
Radiator Cap Pressure Relief ..............................................................................................................
.................................................................... 14-18 psi
A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air
Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows
Hot Air
NOTE:
This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle
in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just
be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm.
There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm.
Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058),
and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off.
Service and Repair
1. Remove the boot. 2. Pack the interior of the boot and lip with grease. 3. Wipe the grease off the
sliding surface of the ball pin, then pack the lower area with fresh grease.
CAUTION: ^ Keep grease off the boot installation section and the tapered section of the ball pin. ^
Do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the boot.
4. Install the new ball joint boot using a special tool as shown below.
NOTE: After driving the boot onto the ball joint, apply sealant between the tie-rod end and boot.
CAUTION: After installing the boot, check the ball pin tapered section for grease contamination and
wipe it if necessary.
Page 953
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 5173
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 491
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 205
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5389
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5550
Switches
Other types of switches are controlled by a coil or a solid state circuit. Unless otherwise noted, all
switches are shown in their normal (rest) position, with power OFF.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 2740
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 5045
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 4501
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 2133
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch sends a signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to increase idle speed when the demand for power
steering causes the idle to drop.
OPERATION
When the power steering is operated a signal is sent to the PGM-FI ECM which then commands
the Idle Air Control Valve to raise the idle speed compensating for the increased engine load.
Page 3548
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Page 108
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 1974
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 1293
Balancer Driven Pulley Removal
13. Hold the front balancer shaft with a screwdriver, then install the timing balancer belt driven
pulley. Torque the 8 x 1.25 mm bolt to 30 Nm (3.0
kg-m, 22 lb ft).
14. Install the balancer gear case to the oil pump. Torque the 8 x 1.25 mm bolt to 25 Nm (2.5 kg-m,
18 lb ft).
NOTE: Align the groove on the pulley edge with the pointer on the gear case while holding the rear
balancer with 6 x 100 mm bolt, then install the gear case.
Power Distribution
Locations
4. Place wooden block or shop rag in caliper opposite piston, then carefully remove piston from
caliper by applying air pressure through brake line
5. Remove boot clip, if equipped, then the piston boot and piston seal.
Assembly
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
1. Clean piston and caliper bore with brake fluid, then inspect for wear or damage. 2. Apply brake
cylinder grease to new piston seal and install seal in cylinder groove. 3. Install piston boot, then the
boot retaining clip. 4. Lubricate caliper cylinder and piston with brake fluid, then install piston in
cylinder with dished end facing in. 5. Install pad spring in caliper housing. 6. Install caliper
assembly.
Page 126
equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system
disarming and arming procedures.
a. Remove dashboard lower cover, left knee bolster and left kick panel. b. Disconnect 5-P
connector from under dash fuse/relay box, then the 3-P connector from main wire harness. c.
Remove steering column covers.
4. Center punch two shear bolts and drill heads off with a 3/16 inch drill bit. 5. Remove shear bolts
from switch body. Do not damage switch body when removing shear bolts. 6. Install new steering
lock without key inserted. 7. Tighten new shear bolts finger tight, then ensure projection on ignition
switch is aligned with hole in steering column. 8. Insert ignition key, then ensure key turns freely
and steering wheel lock is operating properly. 9. Tighten shear bolts until hex heads twist off.
10. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 1287
8. Remove the bolts and the bearing cap bridge, then remove the bearing caps.
CAUTION: To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the
sequence until all bolts are loosened.
Crankshaft Removal
10. Remove the rod caps/bearings and main caps/bearings. Keep all caps/bearings in order. 11.
Lift the crankshaft out of the engine, being careful not to damage journals.
12. Remove the bolts and the retainer, then remove the front balancer shaft and the rear balancer
shaft. 13. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods and set them aside with their
respective caps. 14. Reinstall the main caps and bearings on the engine in proper order.
15. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a
ridge reamer. Follow the reamer manufacturer's
instructions.
Page 3785
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5678
Marker Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 2650
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 666
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Page 5273
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Photo 10
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 2877
13. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure the transmission shifts properly.
Disclaimer
Page 5043
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Cellular Phone - Out-of-Warranty Repair Information
Cellular Phone: Technical Service Bulletins Cellular Phone - Out-of-Warranty Repair Information
Bulletin No. 95-008
This bulletin provides information for the repair of in-dash cellular telephones that are no longer in
warranty. It applies only to the repair of the in-dash cellular phone Unit. Any other in-dash cellular
telephone component (handset, hands-free microphone, antenna, etc.) that fails should be
considered unrepairable, and you should order a replacement component.
You deal directly with Motorola, the manufacturer, for in-dash cellular phone unit repair. and only
Honda in-dash cellular telephones are subject to this program.
PROCEDURE
Once you have verified a customer's complaint of a malfunctioning in-dash cellular telephone,
remove the defective in-dash cellular phone unit from the vehicle. Pack the unit carefully, include
the proper paperwork, and ship it to the Motorola Service Center (see SHIPPING PROCEDURE).
The unit will be repaired or exchanged by Motorola, and shipped back within 10 calendar days of
its receipt by Motorola. The repair is guaranteed by the service center for 90 days from the date of
repair.
Motorola will log and track all in-dash cellular phone units by mechanical serial number. You may
inquire about the status of a unit that is in for repair by calling Motorola at (800) 331-6456.
Should you or your customer experience any problems with this program, please contact your zone
customer relations office.
SHIPPING PROCEDURE
Page 5801
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 3684
When the car is moving at high speed, negative pressure develops at the sensor inlet because the
power steering speed sensor is pumping faster than the fluid can be supplied. To compensate for
this, the outlet and inlet ports are connected internally by a passage containing a one-way valve
that lets output fluid recirculate to the inlet port to equalize pressure.
13. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure the transmission shifts properly.
Disclaimer
Page 2382
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
When servicing the fuel system observe the following cautions:
^ Slowly open fuel connections, allow pressure to escape, and catch spilled fuel in container.
NOTE: Use fuel system bleed bolt (located on passenger side of fuel rail) to relieve pressure.
Replacement of washer on bolt is recommended
^ Put any drained fuel in an explosive-proof container and put the lid on securely.
Page 5695
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a car. An example of this is placement of the
belt. Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop a side force while rolling straight
down the road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone. The "Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction" chart
should be used to make sure that front wheel alignment is not mistaken for tire lead. Rear tires will
not cause lead/pull.
Locations
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Lift Sensor is located on top of EGR Valve. The EGR Valve
is located at the right corner of the intake manifold near the ignition distributor.
Page 4430
Ordering the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Two-Way Valve
PURPOSE
The Two Way Valve, located on top of the fuel tank, vents fuel tank vapor pressure into the
charcoal canister.
OPERATION
When fuel tank pressure exceeds 10 to 35 mmHg (0.4 to 1.4 in.Hg.) the Two-way Valve opens.
Once open, the fuel tank vapors are bled off into the charcoal canister until pressure drops below
10 to 35 mmHg (0.4 to 1.4 in. Hg.) The Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) then determines when to draw the vapors from the canister into a port on the
throttle body.
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Diagnostic Procedures
If the inspection for a particular code requires the Test Harness, remove the right door sill molding
and the small cover on the right kick panel and pull the carpet back to expose the ECM. Unbolt the
ECM cover. Turn the Ignition Switch off and connect the Test Harness.
Check the system according to the procedures described for the appropriate code(s).
Page 1822
A/C Signal: Testing and Inspection
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
PURPOSE
The Ignition Control Module (ICM), located in the distributor assembly, triggers the Ignition Coil,
allowing stored energy to be released in the form of a high-tension pulse through the secondary
windings.
OPERATION
As the Programmed Ignition Electronic Control Module (PGM-IG ECM) computes a timing setting,
based on the signals from the various sensors, the value is converted into a control signal for the
ICM. The ICM interrupts the current in the ignition coil primary windings at the correct time, allowing
stored energy to be released in the form of a high-tension pulse through the secondary windings.
Page 5616
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4565
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 4359
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 3975
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque
specification then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut
by
loosening.
38. Install the knuckle on the lower arm and the tie-rod, then tighten the castle nuts and install new
cotter pins. 39. Install the knuckle on the upper arm, then tighten the castle nut and install a new
cotter pin.
41. Install the speed sensor with the sensor mounting bolts.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 2211
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
14. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
Page 226
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
WARNING: Use the Bleeder T-wrench before disassembling the parts shaded in the illustration.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Photo 61
Photo 65
Photo 79
Page 2380
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 899
Power Distribution
Specifications
Flywheel: Specifications
Page 5588
Fuse Details Schematics
NOTE: Before adjusting the sub steering angle sensor, check that the front main steering angle
sensor is adjusted properly.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car. 2. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position.
3. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensors are in the electronic neutral
position when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed
before checking the electronic neutral position.
4. Set the parking brake lever and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the parking
brake indicator light turns on. 5. Turn the ignition switch off.
6. Cut the wire tie from the sub steering angle sensor cover, then remove the cover from the sub
steering angle sensor.
CAUTION: Use care when cutting the wire tie so as not to cut into the wire harness.
7. Remove the sub steering angle sensor wire harness from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
Page 3612
1. Remove the rear seat back. 2. Disconnect the terminal wires and connectors from the control
unit. 3. Remove the control unit. 4. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: Turn the ignition switch ON and check the 4WS indicator light operation.
Page 5036
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 503
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable. 3. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster. 4.
Remove steering column upper and lower covers. 5. Disconnect switch electrical connectors. 6.
Remove two switch attaching screws, then slide switch assembly out of housing. 7. Reverse
procedure to install. 8. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to
Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Service and Repair
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Before installing the pistons, apply a coat of engine oil to the ring grooves and cylinder
bores.
1. If the crankshaft is already installed:
- Set the crankshaft to Bottom Dead Center (BDC) for each cylinder.
- Remove the connecting rod caps, and slip short sections of rubber hose over the threaded ends
of the connecting rod bolts.
- Install the ring compressor, check that the bearing is securely in place, then position the piston in
the cylinder and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer.
- Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-crank journal
alignment before pushing the piston into place.
- Install the rod caps with bearings, and torque the nuts to 46 Nm (34 ft. lbs.)
- Remove the rod caps and bearings, install the ring compressor, then position the piston in the
cylinder and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer.
NOTE: Maintain downward force on the ring compressor to prevent the rings from expanding
before entering the cylinder bore.
Page 891
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 14, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, a system malfunction is indicated.
Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag Systems/Testing and
Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Page 37
There should be continuity between the A and B terminals when power and ground are connected
to the C and D terminals.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 5704
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 2692
Disclaimer
Service and Repair
Windshield Washer Reservoir: Service and Repair
1. Remove front bumper, then disconnect washer hose and 2-P connectors from front and rear
washer motors. 2. Remove three mounting bolts and washer reservoir. 3. Reverse procedure to
install.
Front
Removal
Ensure dirt or other foreign matter is not allowed to contaminate brake fluid. Do not mix different
types of brake fluid, as they might not be compatible.
1. Refer to Fig. 5 when replacing calipers. 2. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove wheel
and tire assemblies.
Page 5600
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 1025
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 5668
Fuse Details Schematics
The Main Relay, located under the left side of the dashboard, supplies power to the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), injectors and supplies power to the fuel
pump for 2 seconds for starting purposes.
OPERATION
The first relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the
PGM-FI ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
^ The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and
also energized when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
Page 5835
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Circuit Schematics
Page 3773
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 693
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
5. Connect the spark plug wires as shown. 6. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service
Check Connector Jumped. Timing spec: 15° ± 2° BTDC (red) @ 700 ± 50 rpm in neutral 7. After
adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 ft.lbs).
Page 3127
Fuse Details Schematics
Installation
CAUTION:
Page 4519
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 4931
Actuator/Cable Replacement
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
3. Pull back boot and loosen locknut, then disconnect cable from bracket, Fig. 44. 4. Disconnect
cable end from actuator rod. 5. Disconnect 4-P connector. 6. Pull ventilation hose from grommet. 7.
Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve. 8. Remove two actuator mount attaching bolts, then
the actuator with bracket and reservoir. 9. Disconnect cable end from linkage over accelerator
pedal, then turn grommet 90° in firewall and remove cable.
10. Reverse procedure to install, adjusting actuator cable as necessary. 11. On models equipped
with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming
and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 2310
Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Fast Idle Thermo Valve, mounted under throttle body next to the Throttle Position sensor,
raises the idle speed when the engine is cold.
OPERATION
Controlled by a thermowax plunger type valve, When the engine coolant is cold, the thermowax
contracts the plunger which opens the valve allowing air to bypass the throttle plate and idle
adjusting screw into the intake manifold. When the engine coolant warms up, the valve closes and
the bypass air flow is blocked.
Page 5629
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4717
Page 777
14. Lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place by installing one of a 6 x 1.0 mm lower cover
mounting bolts. 15. Loosen the timing belt adjusting nut. Push on the pulley to remove tension from
the timing balancer belt, then tighten the adjusting nut.
16. Remove the timing balancer belt. 17. Make sure the crankshaft is positioned with the No. 1
cylinder at TDC.
Page 4045
Blower Controls
Page 2591
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect 2-P electrical connector from shift lock solenoid. 4. Remove shift lock
extension.
5. Remove screw and detent spring washer, Fig. 16. 6. Remove shift lock solenoid. 7. Reverse
procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Ensure shift lock stop does not protrude when solenoid is On. b. Ensure shift lock solenoid does
protrude more than 0.30 inches when shift lock is Off.
Page 3468
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 3396
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5730
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 938
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 5840
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 2572
21. Use the bail joint remover to separate the ball joint and lower arm.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
22. Remove the knuckle protector. 23. Remove the cotter pin and the upper ball joint nut. 24. Install
a 10 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the
threaded section of the ball joint pin
25. Use the ball joint remover to separate the ball joint and knuckle.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
26. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle using a
plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 628
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Page 5123
Headlamp Reminder Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 1386
Exhaust: 0.27 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.013 in)
4. Tighten the locknut and check clearance again. Repeat adjustment if not within spec.
5. Rotate crankshaft 180° counterclockwise (camshaft pulley will turn 90°). The "UP" mark should
be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No.3
cylinder.
6. Rotate crankshaft 180° counter clockwise to bring No.4 piston to TDC. Both TDC grooves are
once again visible. Adjust valves on No.4 cylinder.
7. Rotate crankshaft 180° counterclockwise to bring No.2 piston to TDC. The "UP" mark should be
on the intake side. Adjust valves on No.2
cylinder.
8. Re-torque crankshaft pulley bolt to 250Nm (181 ft.lbs). Install cylinder head cover.
Locations
NOTE:
Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
2. Press and hold the driver's door master power door lock switch up in the unlock position.
(Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key in the ignition switch and remove it. Repeat this four more times within 10
seconds, then leave the key in the switch. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the
system is in the programming mode. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
system will exit the programming mode.)
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that all power door locks
(except the driver's) cycle to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the system.
5. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter. (You can program two transmitters per vehicle.)
6. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 7
Constant Velocity Joint: Customer Interest Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns
91-029
SYMPTOM
A clicking noise is heard while making right or left turns at 10 mph or less.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
PARTS INFORMATION
DIAGNOSIS
(Driving method)
1. Drive the car in a circle in an open parking lot at approximately 10 mph with the brakes slightly
applied.
Page 2119
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, which is mounted center of the firewall, sends a
signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM). the PGM-FI
ECM uses this signal to sense engine load. Ignition timing and fuel delivery can then be adjusted to
maintain optimum engine performance.
OPERATION
The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal and a ground to the sensor. A vacuum line supplies intake
manifold vacuum to a small cavity under the silicon diaphragm which causes the diaphragm to flex.
The flexing of the silicon generates a small voltage which is amplified by the support circuitry and
used to modify the fixed 5 volt signal supplied by the PGM-FI ECM. The modified signal is then
returned to PGM-FI ECM.
Page 3892
NOTE: Replace the bearing with a new one after removal.
27. Separate the hub from the knuckle using the special tools and a hydraulic press.
CAUTION: ^ Take care not to distort the splash guard. ^ Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling
when pressed clear.
29. Remove the circlip and the splash guard from the knuckle.
Page 5069
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 632
^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information.
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Page 114
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
NOTE: -
- Take care not to bend the cable when removing the actuator. Always replace a kinked cable with
a new one.
Page 3611
IG SW: Ignition Switch ACC: Accessory (1 position) The normal voltage is the value when the
system is working properly.
Page 1158
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3530
Relay Box: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Under Hood Fuse / Relay Box
Locations
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 1329
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from the work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the engine is OFF.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
3. Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the fuel pipe, while holding the special banjo
bolt with another wrench. 4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY
loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn.
INSPECTION
1. Remove the service bolt on the fuel pipe while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench and
attach the fuel pressure gauge. 2. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with engine idling
and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. 3. Pressure should read 255 -
305 kpa (36 - 43 psi) 4. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 5. Pressure
should read 195 - 245 kpa (28 - 35 psi) 6. If the fuel pressure is not as specified check the fuel
pump. If the fuel pump is okay, then check as follows:
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 3075
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 563
When the car is moving at high speed, negative pressure develops at the sensor inlet because the
power steering speed sensor is pumping faster than the fluid can be supplied. To compensate for
this, the outlet and inlet ports are connected internally by a passage containing a one-way valve
that lets output fluid recirculate to the inlet port to equalize pressure.
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
With 4-Wheel Steering
a. Rotate reel clockwise until it stops. b. Rotate reel counterclockwise until yellow gear tooth lines
up with alignment mark on cover or arrow mark on cable reel label points straight up
position. Ensure steering wheel shaft engages pins of cable reel, Fig. 1.
4. Remove steering wheel, then check whether yellow paint mark on front main steering angle
sensor rotor is facing down (neutral lock position,
rotor does not turn). If mark is not facing down, adjust as follows:
b. Turn wheel until paint mark is facing down. c. Return wheel spokes to horizontal angle set
above, being careful not to push in steering wheel. d. Remove steering wheel.
5. Reinstall steering wheel as described at beginning of this procedure, using care to install it at
centered position determined earlier. 6. If spoke angle is not horizontal, adjust wheel slightly right
or left, without pushing wheel too deep. 7. Push steering wheel in, then torque nut to 36 ft. lbs. Do
not turn steering wheel while pushing down. 8. Check all four wheels four alignment. 9. Connect
electrical connectors, then install air bag assembly with new Torx bolts. Confirm air bag assembly
is securely attached to steering
wheel; otherwise, severe personal injury could result during later air bag deployment.
a. Turn ignition switch to II position. Instrument panel SRS indicator light should come on for six
seconds, then go off. b. Confirm operation of horn buttons and cruise control set/resume switches.
c. Ensure yellow gear tooth still lines up with alignment mark when wheel is turned
counterclockwise.
11. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 3054
4. Install the return spring.
CAUTION:
- When the cam and lever were separated, be sure to assemble them before installing the cam in
the caliper body. Install the lever and spring washer apply locking agent to the threads, and tighten
the parking nut while holding the lever with a vise.
- Avoid damaging the cam boot since it must be installed before the cam.
- When installing the cam, do not allow the cam boot lips to turn outside in.
5. Install the pin in the cam. 6. Apply recommended grease to the new O-ring and install it on the
sleeve piston. 7. Install the sleeve piston so the hole in the bottom of the piston is aligned with the
pin in the cam and two pins on the piston are aligned with the
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 467
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor, mounted on and driven by the throttle body unit, is used by the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to detect throttle movement
and position.
OPERATION
A 5 volt reference signal is applied from the PGM-FI ECM and a ground signal. When the throttle is
opened the sensor resistance changes which is read as a varying voltage signal. At idle position
the sensor voltage is approx. 0.5 Volts and at full throttle approx. 4.5 Volts.
Page 118
Integrated Control Unit (Part 2 Of 2)
Locations
step. If charge warning lamp does illuminate perform the following: a. Start engine, charge warning
lamp should go off. If charge warning lamp does not go out, continue test. If charge warning lamp
does go out,
b. Turn engine off and disconnect 4-P connector from alternator, then turn ignition switch to On
position. If charge warning lamp illuminates,
disconnect ABS, 4WS and integrated control unit, if equipped. If light still stays on, repair short to
ground in white/blue wire. If charge warning lamp does not illuminate, white/blue wire is OK.
Perform Charging System Test.See: Starting and Charging/Charging System/Testing and
Inspection
2. Turn ignition switch to Off position and check No. 23 fuse. 3. If fuse is blown, replace it. If fuse is
OK, continue test. 4. Disconnect 4-P connector from alternator and turn ignition switch on, then
check for voltage at the IG (black/yellow wire) terminal of 4-P
connector. If battery voltage is not present, repair open in black/yellow wire. If battery voltage is
present, continue test.
5. Ground white/blue wire at L terminal of 4-P connector. If charge warning light does not come on,
repair either blown charge system light bulb or
open in white/blue wire. If charge warning light does come on, replace voltage regulator.
Page 1800
Distributor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
Distributes secondary voltage from the coil to the correct sparkplug wire and sparkplug.
^ Houses the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
OPERATION
The Distributor, rotating at camshaft speed, allows the secondary voltage to flow from the coil wire
through the cap/rotor to the correct sparkplug wire and plug. It then continually advances the rotor
to align with the next sparkplug wire and plug. It also allows the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor to
accurately Inform the Programmed Ignition Electronic Control Module (PGM-IG ECM) of the
relative positions of the crank, cam and pistons.
Page 1304
18. Align the groove on the front balancer shaft pulley with the pointer on the oil pump body as
shown. 19. Align the rear balancer shaft pulley by using a 6 x 100 mm boll or equivalent as an
alignment tool. Scribe a line 74 mm from the end of the bolt.
Insert the bolt into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
20. Loosen the adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. 21.
Install the timing balancer belt. 22. Turn the crankshaft pulley about one turn, then tighten the
adjusting nut to the specified torque.
NOTE: The belt adjuster is spring-loaded to properly tension the belt. Do not apply any extra
pressure to the pulleys or tensioner while performing the adjustment.
Page 13
Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation
The main function section of the control unit performs calculations on the basis of the signals from
each speed sensor. It controls the operation of the anti-lock brake system by putting the solenoid
valves in the modulator unit into action for each front brake and for the two rear brakes. The
sub-function section gives driving signals to the pump motor and also gives self-diagnosis signals.
Page 3795
Seat Belt And Ignition Key Reminders
Page 1072
Balance Shaft: Service and Repair Installation
NOTE: Before installing the crankshaft, apply a coat of engine oil to the main bearings, rod
bearings and balancer shaft bearings.
1. Insert bearing halves in the engine block and connecting rods. 2. Hold the crankshaft so rod
journals for cylinders No. 2 and No. 3 are straight up.
3. Lower the crankshaft into the block, seating the rod journals into connecting rods No.2 and No.3.
Install the rod caps and nuts finger tight. 4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, seat journals into
connecting rods No. 1 and No.4, and install the rod caps and nuts finger tight.
NOTE: Install caps so the bearing recess is on the same side as the recess in the rod.
5. Check rod bearing clearance with plastigage, then torque the cap nuts:
NOTE: Reference numbers on connecting rod are for big-end bore tolerance and do not indicate
the position of piston in the engine.
Torque Sequence
6. Install the thrust washers, main bearing caps and bearing cap bridge.
- Check clearance with plastigage, then tighten the bearing cap bolts in 2 steps.
- In the first step tighten all bolts in sequence to about 30 Nm (3.0 kg-m, 22 lb ft).
NOTE: Coat thrust washer surfaces and bolt threads with oil.
CAUTION: Whenever any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is replaced, it is necessary after
reassembly to run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal operating temperature, then
continue to run it for approximately 15 minutes.
Page 3259
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
The speed sensor is a non-contact type which detects the rotating speeds of the wheel. It is
composed of a permanent magnet and coil. When the gear pulsers at each wheel turn, the
magnetic coil in the speed sensor alternates, generating voltages with frequency in proportion to
wheel rotating speed.
Front Sub Steering Angle Sensor
NOTE:
Include a copy of your tax-exempt certificate the first time you ship an in-dash cellular phone unit to
Motorola. They will keep it on file for verification of future shipments.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 3567
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Page 1006
Tire pressure, in cold condition (after vehicle has set for three hours or more, and driven less than
one mile) should be checked monthly or before any extended trip. Tire pressure increases
approximately 15% when the tires become hot during driving. Tire pressure specification is shown
on the label located on the left door lock pillar.
NOTE: Check the tire pressure whenever irregular wear is found. Tire inflation greatly affects tire
wear. If the alignment check does not reveal any alignment problems, check the condition of the
shock absorbers and wheel/tire balance.
Page 375
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1705
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4562
Fuse Details Schematics
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 3235
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Locations
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 5382
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 735
CAUTION: ^ Take care not to distort the splash guard. ^ Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling
when pressed clear.
29. Remove the circlip and the splash guard from the knuckle.
Page 2210
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Service and Repair
Connecting Rod Bearing: Service and Repair
Rod and main bearings are available in several oversizes and undersizes and are identified by the
color code on the edge of the bearing.
Page 5888
Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 3. Remove steering column covers. 4.
Disconnect 8-P connector, then remove wiper/washer switch. 5. Reverse procedure to install. 6. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 2636
the torque converter housing; you must install the seal dry.
6. With a soft-face hammer, lightly tap the driver until the seal is fully seated in the torque converter
housing.
Disclaimer
Page 1252
8. Remove the dipstick and the dipstick tube. Make sure you cover the hole to keep debris out of
the oil pan.
9. Raise the vehicle, and remove the left front wheel.
10. Remove the mounting bolts from the driver's side half of the splash shield. Pull back the splash
shield, and secure it so you can access the crankshaft pulley.
11. Use the special tools and a wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, then remove the
pulley.
12. Remove the three mounting bolts from the lower cover. Pry the bottom of the cover away from
the block about an inch, and use a socket or similar tool to hold it there.
Page 5073
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 480
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 3542
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 866
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 3918
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Page 5387
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 3384
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 2406
1. Remove the fuel filler cap. 2. Remove vapor line from the fuel tank and connect a
vacuum/pressure gauge and pump via a T-fitting.
Two Way Valve Testing
Vacuum should stabilize momentarily at 5 to 15 mmHg (0.2 to 0.6 in.Hg). If vacuum stabilizes
(valve opens) below 5 mmHg (0.2 in.Hg) or above 15 mmHg (0.6 in.Hg), install new valve and
retest.
Pressure should momentarily stabilize at 10 to 35 mmHg (0.4 to 1.4 in.Hg). If pressure stabilizes
(valve opens) below 10 mmHg (0.4 in.Hg) or above 35 mmHg (1.4 in.Hg), install new valve and
retest.
Page 3556
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Page 423
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
1. Turn the Ignition off. 2. Disconnect the eight pin connector from the TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor.
3. Measure the resistance between the terminals indicated on the chart for the correct sensor.
Resistance should measure between 350 and 700 ohms.
4. If resistance checks correct, measure for continuity between body ground and each terminal of
the sensor being tested. If any continuity is
5. If all tests good but symptom or DTC indication persists see troubleshooting procedure for DTC's
4/8/9.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Preliminary Checks
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Checks
INSPECTION
Before making any adjustments affecting caster, camber or toe-in, the following front end
inspection should be made. 1. Inspect the tires for proper inflation pressure. 2. Inspect the front
wheel bearings for proper adjustment. 3. inspect the ball joints and tie rod ends. If excessive
looseness is noted, correct before adjusting. 4. Inspect the wheel and tires for run-out. 5. Inspect
the trim height. If not within specifications, the correction must be made before adjusting caster. 6.
Inspect the steering unit for looseness at the frame. 7. Inspect shock absorbers for leaks or any
noticeable noise. 8. Inspect the control arms or stabilizer bar attachment for looseness. 9. Inspect
the front end alignment using alignment equipment. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Park vehicle on level ground with wheels blocked. When bleeding brakes, put manual transaxle in
the Neutral position and automatic transaxle in the Park position.
1. With ignition switch Off, disconnect 6-P inspection connector from connector cover on the
crossmember under passenger seat and connect it to
4. Bleed high pressure fluid from maintenance bleeder with bleeder wrench tool No.
07HAA-SG00101, or equivalent, Fig. 9.
5. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 6. Turn mode selector switch on
checker to 2. 7. While depressing brake pedal firmly, push start test switch to operate modulator.
There should be kickback on brake pedal. If there is no kickback,
8. Turn mode selector switch on checker to 3, 4 and 5. At each test mode position, refill modulator
reservoir to MAX level and install reservoir cap. 9. Refill modulator reservoir to MAX level and
install reservoir cap. Disconnect ALB checker before driving car. A collision can result from a
CAUTION:
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
1. Place the vehicle on level ground with the wheels blocked. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL for
manual transmission models, and in PARK
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
Tensioning the engine belts properly with the belt tension gauge (T/N 07JGG-001010A) is critical to
bearing life of the A/C compressor, alternator, etc. Calibration of the belt tension gauge should be
checked regularly.
CALIBRATION
A Belt Tension Gauge Checker, needed for checking the calibration of the belt tension gauge, is
now available. One checker is being automatically shipped to each dealership. Additional checkers
may be ordered through normal parts ordering channels. The part number is 07TGG-001010A.
Procedure
1. Push the handle and slide the checker into the gauge. Position the checker as shown.
2. Release the handle and read the tension value on the Kg scale.
3. Compare your reading to the value etched on the checker. Your gauge is in calibration if it is
within +/- 3 kg of the checker value.
If your belt tension gauge is out of calibration, you cannot recalibrate it yourself. Contact America
Kowa Seiki about sending it for recalibration.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Page 1605
INSPECTION
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 6 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. ^
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 2 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the
No. 8 terminal of the PGM-FI main relay. Then
check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the PGM-FI main
relay. ^
NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
Page 3864
2. Install bump stop and stop plate, dust cover, dust cover plate, damper spring and spring
mounting rubber, damper mounting rubber, collar and
damper mounting base on damper unit. When installing damper mounting base, ensure angle of
stud bolt as shown in Fig. 8.
3. Compress spring and install damper mounting washer and self-locking nut. Loosely tighten nut.
4. While holding damper shaft, tighten self-locking nut to specifications. 5. Lower rear suspension
and position damper assembly in its original position. 6. Loosely install damper unit lower mounting
bolt. 7. Install damper upper base mounting nuts and tighten to specifications. 8. Connect upper
arm and knuckle, then tighten to specifications. 9. Using suitable floor jack, raise rear suspension
until weight of vehicle is on damper.
10. Tighten lower mounting bolt to specifications and install brake hose clamp.
Page 2723
4. Use a large screwdriver to bend the assist spring bracket outward approximately 1 mm.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
4. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from
the cylinder head cover 5. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and top adjusting nut, then remove
the alternator belt.
1. Drain transaxle fluid, then remove three intermediate shaft attaching bolts, Fig. 4. 2. Remove left
driveshaft as outlined under Axle Shaft Assembly, Constant Velocity Type. 3. Lower bearing
support case if necessary, then remove intermediate shaft from differential. To prevent damage to
the differential oil seal, hold
4. Reverse procedure to install. Torque intermediate shaft attaching bolts to 29 ft. lbs.
Page 25
1. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay. 2. Connect ohmmeter between relay
terminals A and B, Fig. 10. 3. Meter should indicate no continuity. 4. Connect battery voltage
across terminals C and D. 5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between
terminals A and B.
Page 2026
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 4407
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 3851
Steering Angle Sensor: Adjustments
SUB STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Before adjusting the sub steering angle sensor, check that the front main steering angle
sensor is adjusted properly.
1. Jack up the car and raise all four wheels off the ground. Place the safety stands in the proper
locations to support the car. 2. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position.
3. Take out the service check connector (BLU 2P) from behind the center console. Connect the
terminals with a piece of jumper wire.
NOTE: ^ The 4WS indicator light will not indicate that the sensors are in the electronic neutral
position when displaying stored problem codes. ^ Check and verify any problem codes displayed
before checking the electronic neutral position.
4. Set the parking brake lever and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the parking
brake indicator light turns on. 5. Turn the ignition switch off.
6. Cut the wire tie from the sub steering angle sensor cover, then remove the cover from the sub
steering angle sensor.
CAUTION: Use care when cutting the wire tie so as not to cut into the wire harness.
7. Remove the sub steering angle sensor wire harness from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
Page 873
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 2112
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations
The Intake Air Temperature Sensor is located on the intake manifold facing the firewall towards the
left side.
Locations
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 403
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor, built into the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), senses changes in altitude so that ignition timing and fuel delivery
can be adjusted to maintain consistent engine performance.
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM supplies a 5.0 volt signal and a ground to the sensor. Changes in the pressure
differential between the sealed cavity and the atmosphere cause the silicon to flex. The flexing of
the silicon generates a small voltage which is amplified by the support circuitry and used to modify
the fixed 5.0 volt signal supplied by the PGM-FI ECM. The modified signal is then read by the
PGM-FI ECM.
Description and Operation
ABS Light: Description and Operation
ABS Indicator Light:
The ABS indicator light comes on for three seconds and then goes off when the control unit detects
no problem during the initial diagnosis right after the engine starts.
However, the ABS indicator light can stay on for up to 40 seconds when the control unit starts to
check for pump overrun, etc. during the initial diagnosis.
The ABS indicator light comes on, and the ABS control unit memorizes the diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) under certain conditions.
- The parking brake is applied for more than 30 seconds while the vehicle is being driven. (DTC
2-1)
- The vehicle loses traction, and the front wheels spin for more than one minute when starting from
a stuck condition in mud, snow, or sandy road. (DTC 4-8)
- The tires adhesion is lost due to excessive cornering speed. (DTC 5, 5-4, 5-8)
- The vehicle is interfered by strong radio waves (noise), for example, illegal radio, etc. (DTC 8-2)
NOTE: If there is any trouble in the system, the ABS indicator light turns on during driving.
- When the control unit detects a problem and the ABS indicator light comes on, the control unit
memorizes the DTC.
- The control unit has three memory registers. When a problem occurs, the control unit stores the
DTC in the first memory register. If another problem occurs, or the same problem occurs again, the
control unit moves the first DTC to the next memory register, and stores the second DTC in the first
register. If there's a third problem occurrence, the two existing DTCs are moved up one register,
and the third DTC is stored in the first register. If problems continue to occur, the oldest problem is
moved out of the last register and lost, and the most recent problem is stored in the first register.
When the same problem occurs three times, the same DTC is stored in all memory registers.
(Refer to the Symptom-to- System Chart for diagnostic period.)
- The most recent DTC is indicated first, and the oldest DTC is indicated last.
- The DTCs are erased from the control unit when the ABS control unit +B2 power supply or
connector is disconnected.
- The control unit's memory can be erased by disconnecting the ABS B2 fuse for more than three
seconds.
Self-diagnosis:
1. Initial diagnosis: Performed right after the engine starts until the ABS indicator light goes off. 2
Regular diagnosis: Continuously performed (under some conditions) after the ABS indicator light
goes off until the engine stops.
3. Individual part/system diagnosis: Diagnosis about a specific part/system under its operating
conditions.
- The CPU (central processing unit) controls the following when it detects a problem during
self-diagnosis:
1. Turns the ABS indicator light ON. 2. Turns the front and rear fail-safe relays off. 3. Stops the
ABS control. 4. Stops the ABS pump. (The pump may work under some conditions.) 5. After the
DTC is stored in the control unit, the CPU stops self-diagnosis.
- When the engine is started, the ABS control unit begins the initial diagnosis and operates the
solenoid valve one time. The kickback may be felt when the brake pedal is depressed.
- When the ABS control unit detects the pressure switch OFF signal during the initial diagnosis, it
operates the pump motor, and performs the pump motor over-run diagnosis and pump motor
diagnosis. Therefore, there are two cases where the pump motor operates or does not operate
after the engine is started.
- Normally, after the initial diagnosis, the pump motor operates based on the pressure switch
signal, regardless of the vehicle speed.
Troubleshooting:
- When two or three DTCs are stored in the control unit, perform troubleshooting for the DTC that
appears first.
- When a customer's reported problem cannot be verified on the car, ask the customer about the
conditions when the ABS indicator light came ON, and test drive the car under those conditions, if
possible. When the ABS indicator light does not come ON during the test, check for loose terminals
and check by shaking the harnesses and connectors while following the flowchart.
- The connector terminal numbers are viewed from the wire side for the female terminals, and from
the terminal side for the male terminals.
- After the repair finished off, test drive the car and check the ABS indicator light does not come ON
again during the test. (Refer to the Symptom-to-System Chart for diagnostic period.)
Page 5632
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Install piston to rod as shown, Fig. 57. Pistons are available in standard and oversizes of 0.010 and
0.020 inches.
Page 3130
From Fuses to Relays and Components The second half of Power Distribution shows the wiring
"From Fuses to Relays and Components." This can speed your troubleshooting by showing which
circuits share fuses. If Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share
a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is
available to the inoperative circuit.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 5171
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5190
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
kg-m, 9 lb ft).
- Apply grease to the lips of the oil pump seal and the balancer seal. Then, install the oil pump
inner rotor onto the crankshaft. When the pump is in place, clean any excess grease off the
crankshaft and the balancer shaft, then check that the oil seal lips are not distorted.
10. Install the baffle plate, then install the oil screen. Torque the 6 x 1.0 mm bolts to 12 Nm (1.2
kg-m, 9 lb ft).
Page 2947
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Locations
CAPACITY, Refill:
Accord .................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1.9 liters 4.0 pints
VTEC ...................................................................................................................................................
..................................... 2.2 liters 4.6 pints
Prelude ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1.9 liters 4.0 pints
Page 1835
INSPECTION
1. Remove the cover of the Fast Idle Thermo Valve. 2. Start the engine.
3. With cold engine (engine coolant temperature below 30°C [86°F] ). Use your finger and cover
the valve seat area making sure there is air flow or
suction with the engine cold. If there is no air flow or suction replace the Fast Idle Thermo Valve
and retest.
4. Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature (the cooling fan comes on). 5. Again using
your finger at the valve seat area check that the Fast Idle Thermo Valve is completely closed. If any
air flow or suction can be felt the
valve is leaking. Replace the Fast Idle Thermo Valve and retest.
NOTE: Do not attempt to disassemble the Fast Idle Thermo Valve, it is factory adjusted.
Page 2795
3. Install the modified spring clips in the slots in the front of the center console.
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire crayons
^ Awl or probe
IMPORTANT
Check all parts, including rims, lug studs, lug nuts, and mating surfaces of hubs and tire rims for
rust, damage, or dirt. Clean mating surfaces with a wire brush to remove any foreign material.
Replace any damaged parts as needed. Careless installation of tire/rim assemblies in a vehicle is a
major cause of tire installation problems. Proper installation, including fastener torque, is essential
to economical, safe and trouble free service. Use only the proper sizes and types of fasteners for
safe and proper service. Tighten the fasteners a quarter turn at a time using the tightening
sequence diagram as a guide. This is very important to prevent misalignment of the wheel.
Continue tightening the fasteners in sequence until the fasteners are tightened to the proper torque
(See WHEEL FASTENER TORQUE).
CAUTION: Improper torque or tightening sequence can cause distortion, fatigue cracks, or
alignment problems. After driving the vehicle for a short distance, recheck the wheel fastener
torque. Parts will usually seat naturally, reducing the torque on the fasteners. Retorque all
fasteners to the proper torque.
Page 5278
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Page 3394
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Page 695
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
When servicing the fuel system observe the following cautions:
^ Slowly open fuel connections, allow pressure to escape, and catch spilled fuel in container.
NOTE: Use fuel system bleed bolt (located on passenger side of fuel rail) to relieve pressure.
Replacement of washer on bolt is recommended
^ Put any drained fuel in an explosive-proof container and put the lid on securely.
Page 3470
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Testing and Inspection
1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage
Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower panel. 3. Disconnect 5-P and 20-P connectors from main wire
harness.
4. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position according to table, Fig. 11.
Replace switch as necessary. 5. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system,
refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Testing and Inspection
Image 22-9
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Locations
The Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch sends a signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to increase idle speed when the demand for power
steering causes the idle to drop.
OPERATION
When the power steering is operated a signal is sent to the PGM-FI ECM which then commands
the Idle Air Control Valve to raise the idle speed compensating for the increased engine load.
Locations
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Specifications
Distributor: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the cooling fan comes on).
Turn ignition off. 2. Connect a tachometer.
3. Disconnect the two pin connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. 4. Start engine and
check idle speed in no-load condition (the headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, cooling fan, and
air conditioner are not
operating).
5. Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw. 6. Turn the ignition switch
OFF.
Page 5251
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Diagnostic Aids
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4796
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5451
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 4098
Receiver/dryer:
P/N 80351-SS0-H91, H/C 4155321
PAG oil, 120 ml (use these numbers to order oil, but do not use them in the warranty claim):
Sanden - P/N 38897-P13-A01AH, H/C 5023627 Hadsys - P/N 38897-P0A-A01AH, H/C 5172663
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Repair Procedure
1. Remove the condenser from the vehicle. (Refer to section 22 of the service manual.)
2. Add 20 ml (2/3 oz.) of the proper PAG oil to the new condenser.
3. Install the new condenser with the new 0-rings that came in the kit.
7. Start the engine, run the air conditioner, and test the air temperature at the vents. If the system is
blowing warm air, troubleshoot and repair the system before continuing.
May 1997
Condenser
American Honda has determined that the air conditioning condensers in certain 1994-95 Preludes
may corrode when regularly driven in harsh conditions
Page 319
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
Applicable To ALL
Warped Console
PROBLEM
The front console is warped at the seam with the center console.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Locations
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 1016
1995-97 Accord V6
1994 - 97 Accord
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
EX and LX w/ABS
LX w/o ABS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Page 4521
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 972
H/C 3251550
Defect code: 045
1. If the ABS indicator light does not go ON when the ignition switch is turned on, check the
following items. If they are OK, check the ABS control
unit connectors. If not loose or disconnected, substitute a known-good ABS control unit and
recheck: -
- Open circuit in YEL wire between the No. 13 METER (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
and gauge assembly.
- Open circuit in BLU/RED wire between the gauge assembly and ABS control unit.
- Poor ground connection between the ABS control unit and the body.
2. If the ABS indicator light remains ON after the engine is started, however the ABS indicator light
does not blink any DTC's, check the following
items: -
Loose or poor connection of the wire harness at the ABS control unit.
- Open circuit in WHT wire between the ABS B2 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and
ABS control unit.
- Open circuit in BLK/YEL wire between the No. 9 R/C MIRROR (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box and ABS control unit.
- Short circuit in BLU/RED wire between gauge assembly and ABS control unit.
- Open circuit in WHT/BLU wire between alternator and ABS control unit.
If the problem is not found, substitute a known good ABS control unit and recheck whether the ABS
indicator light remains ON.
Page 5726
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4112
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 956
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
NOTE: -
- Take care not to bend the cable when removing the actuator. Always replace a kinked cable with
a new one.
Page 3790
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
(Axle) Spindle Nut Torque: ..................................................................................................................
................................................ 181 ft.lbs. (250 Nm)
Page 4232
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
A/C Pressure Switch
The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high
temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and
open the circuit This removes ground, and the compressor will stop running.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 2327
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5028
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2289
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flames or sparks away
from the work area. Be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the engine is OFF.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
3. Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the fuel pipe, while holding the special banjo
bolt with another wrench. 4. Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt and SLOWLY
loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn.
INSPECTION
1. Remove the service bolt on the fuel pipe while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench and
attach the fuel pressure gauge. 2. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with engine idling
and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. 3. Pressure should read 255 -
305 kpa (36 - 43 psi) 4. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 5. Pressure
should read 195 - 245 kpa (28 - 35 psi) 6. If the fuel pressure is not as specified check the fuel
pump. If the fuel pump is okay, then check as follows:
4. If the measurements are not within the specifications, adjust as required by turning the tie-rods.
NOTE: After adjusting, recheck the front wheel toe and readjust if necessary. Reposition the tie-rod
boot if twisted or displaced.
Page 3802
Front
1. Remove two valve body unit to gearbox attaching bolts. 2. Remove O-rings and port orifices
from gearbox. 3. On models with 2WS, loosen rack screw locknut and remove rack guide screw. 4.
On models with 4WS, loosen rack screw locknut and remove rack guide screw/sub steering angle
sensor assembly. 5. Remove spring and rack guide from gear housing. 6. On models with 4WS,
remove rack guide screw, O-ring and locknut from sub steering angle sensor. 7. Carefully clamp
gearbox into vise with soft jaws. 8. Remove tie rod assembly, then the boot bands and tube
clamps. 9. Pull dust seals away from ends of gearbox.
10. Hold steering rack with wrench and unscrew rack end, then remove dust cover.
11. Remove four gear housing cap to gear housing attaching bolts, Fig. 17. 12. Remove steering
pinion seal from gear housing cap.
Page 4175
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
3. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown above, until air bubbles no longer
appear in the fluid. 4. Check brake performance by road testing.
Page 77
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times with the transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Check that the power door
locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode.
7. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on each transmitter. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle) Check that the power door locks cycle after you push each transmitter
button, confirming that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
PURPOSE
These vehicles are equipped with a PROGRAMMED FUEL INJECTION ELECTRONIC CONTROL
MODULE (PGM-FI ECM). The PGM-FI ECM, located at Passenger side footwell under the carpet,
controls all phases of engine operation. In order to accomplish this control, the PGM-FI ECM relies
on the input from a variety of engine operation sensors.
OPERATION
The PGM-FI ECM compares input signals with those stored in memory to determine what steps
should be taken to achieve maximum performance, fuel economy, and meet emission standards.
The PGM-FI ECM outputs the necessary signals to the fuel system, ignition system, air control
system, and the emission control systems. The PGM-FI ECM also records any malfunctions in the
monitored systems. When a malfunction is detected, the PGM-FI ECM will insert a
pre-programmed value to substitute for the defective signal, flash the Check Engine light, and store
the malfunction in erasable memory as a numeric code. Additionally, should the PGM-FI ECM itself
fail, their is a back-up circuit which will control the fuel system to allow the vehicle to continue
functioning (Back-up Mode).
Page 5464
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Locations
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 3. Remove steering column covers. 4.
Disconnect 8-P connector, then remove wiper/washer switch. 5. Reverse procedure to install. 6. On
models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for
system disarming and arming
procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for
system disarming and arming procedures.
Page 5310
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 4288
gear tooth is aligned with mark on cover and arrow mark on cable reel cover is pointing straight
upward, Fig. 33.
6. Ensure front wheels are in the straight ahead position, then position steering wheel on steering
shaft. 7. Attach cable reel 3-P electrical connector to clip. 8. Connect the horn and cruise control
electrical connectors. 9. Install and tighten steering wheel retaining nut to specifications.
10. Install the driver side air bag assembly. 11. Install air duct, dirver's side knee boltser, amd lower
cover. 12. Place ignition switch in On position. SRS indicator lamp should be illuminated for
approximately six seconds, then lamp should turn off. If lamp
13. If vehicle is equipped with radio theft protection, place radio control knob in On position. When
the word Code appears on the radio display panel,
enter the five-digit radio theft protection code number. Turn ignition switch on and observe
instrument panel SRS indicator light. It should come on for approximately six seconds, then turn
off.
14. After installation is complete, double check cable reel installation by rotating steering wheel
counterclockwise until yellow gear tooth lines up with
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 2608
1. Remove instrument panel lower cover and knee bolster. 2. Remove steering column upper and
lower covers. 3. Disconnect shift lock solenoid 2-P connector.
4. Connect battery power momentarily to No. 1 terminal of shift lock solenoid, Fig. 13, noting the
following:
a. Ensure power is not applied to terminal No. 2, as the solenoid will be shorted out. b. Ensure shift
lock stop does not protrude when in On position. c. Ensure shift lock stop does protrude more than
0.30 inches when Off.
5. Check that shift lock releases when release lever is pushed. 6. Check that shift lock solenoid
locks when lever is released. 7. If solenoid does not work as outlined, replace.
Page 1960
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4158
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 667
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Page 2333
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5722
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Install test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic
Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness
2. Measure voltage between terminal B8 (+) and A26 (-). Voltage should read less than 1.0 volt. If
not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP
If there is more than 1.0 volt, inspect for opens in RED/GREEN (+) wire and/or BLACK (-) wire.
^ If there is less than 1.0 volt, replace the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch.
3. Start the engine. turn the steering wheel slowly. Measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+)
and terminal A26 (-) while steering wheel is turning.
Voltage should read battery voltage. If not, disconnect the two pin connector at the PSP switch and
measure the voltage between terminal B8 (+) and terminal A26 (-). ^
^ If voltage measures less than 1.0 volt, inspect for short in RED/GREEN (+) wire between PGM-FI
ECM and PSP switch and/or substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
Page 598
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3140
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 4532
NOTE:The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
For information on how to obtain the code in the event the customer does not have the code please
refer to the TSB below.
TSB # 98-026
BACKGROUND
This service bulletin describes where to attach the audio unit anti-theft labels that come in the glove
box of vehicles equipped with anti-theft audio systems.
If a vehicle has an anti-theft audio system, there are three peel-off labels in the glove box. Two of
the labels have both the anti-theft code and the audio unit's serial number, and a third label
contains only the serial number for the audio unit.
During Pre Delivery Inspection, stick the label with only the serial number on the glove box. If the
radio code ever needs to be retrieved through the HONDANET 2000 system, this will save you the
time and labor of removing the audio unit to record the serial number.
NOTES:
- Also perform this procedure when installing an accessory audio unit that is equipped with an
anti-theft system.
- If a remanufactured audio unit is installed in a vehicle, remove the old labels and install new ones
on the glove box, Radio Identification Card, and the vehicle's service records.
- If the glove box is ever replaced, transfer the labels from the old glove box to the new one.
PROCEDURE
Page 5256
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5306
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 1413
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 2019
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Locations
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 1769
Idle Speed: Adjustments
CANADIAN VEHICLES: Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the
headlights are off.
1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the cooling fan comes on).
Turn ignition off. 2. Connect a tachometer.
3. Disconnect the two pin connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. 4. Start engine and
check idle speed in no-load condition (the headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, cooling fan, and
air conditioner are not
operating).
5. Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw. 6. Turn the ignition switch
OFF.
Page 3101
16. Remove the sleeve piston, and remove the pin from the cam. 17. Remove the return spring. 18.
Remove the parking lever and cam as an assembly from the caliper body.
CAUTION: Do not loosen the parking nut with the cam installed in the caliper body. If the lever and
shalt must be separated, hold the lever in a vise and loosen the parking nut.
^ If all the trays are in the magazine, place the changer in a horizontal position, and insert a thin
stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from the right side of the
opening.
3. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
2. Remove the top cover plate from the changer, and inspect for a jammed tray.
^ If all the trays are in the magazine, place the changer in a horizontal position, and insert a thin
stainless steel ruler or a "Slim Jim" under the magazine, about 1/2" from the right side of the
opening.
3. Push the ruler in until it presses against the eject lever at the back of the unit.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
99-04 Odyssey EX
1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*Transmitter Identification
Page 1175
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
6. Adjust the rear camber by turning the adjusting bolt until camber is correct. 7. Install the new
self-locking nut and tighten while holding the adjusting bolt.
Caster Inspection
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
1. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position. 2. Check the caster angle.
3. If adjustment is required, record the caster reading, then go to step 4. If adjustment is not
required, remove alignment equipment.
NOTE: Caster angle can be adjusted by increasing/decreasing the number of the adjusting shims.
Remove and install the radius rod each time the caster angle is adjusted.
4. Raise the front end of the car and place safety stands in the proper locations. 5. Remove the
self-locking nut on the end of the radius rod. 6. Remove the radius rod attaching bolts at the lower
arm, then remove the radius rod.
- One adjusting shim changes the caster angle by 40' and the caster angle can be adjusted by 1°
20' maximum.
NOTE: ^ Do not use more than two adjusting shims. ^ After the adjustment, tighten the self-locking
nut to the specified torque.
NOTE: Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure
wheel alignment (i.e. toe, turning angle, camber, and/or caster). Follow the equipment
manufacturer's instructions.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 571
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
PURPOSE
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, located in the cylinder head just below the
distributor, delivers an electrical signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) allowing it to adjust the length of injector opening time required by the engine for
optimum performance at all engine temperatures.
OPERATION
As water temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The PGM-FI ECM receives sensor
information as resistance to ground. Coolant temperature information is used by the PGM-FI ECM
to determine proper fuel delivery.
Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Specifications
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. SG
CAPACITY, Refill:
Accord .................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1.9 liters 4.0 pints
VTEC ...................................................................................................................................................
..................................... 2.2 liters 4.6 pints
Prelude ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1.9 liters 4.0 pints
Page 5250
Fuse Details Schematics
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 2424
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Main Relay, located under the left side of the dashboard, supplies power to the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), injectors and supplies power to the fuel
pump for 2 seconds for starting purposes.
OPERATION
The first relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the
PGM-FI ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
^ The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and
also energized when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
Page 3512
Photo 138
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Page 1680
Throttle Body With Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Adj. Screw Location.
Page 5092
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage
99-062
(Supersedes 99-062, dated October 12, 1999 to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
SYMPTOM
The exterior paint surface does not feel smooth after the vehicle is washed.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Environmental fallout (airborne metallic particles, tree sap, paint overspray, road tar, insect residue,
etc.) has adhered to the exterior paint surface.
NOTE:
This form of paint damage should not be confused with acid rain damage. Unlike environmental
fallout damage, acid rain damage appears on the paint surface as pits or water spots-possibly
black or brown in the center-which may feel smooth to the touch.
PREVENTION
The shipping wax/wrap guard applied to the vehicle at the factory provides the best protection for
the paint finish from environmental fallout and acid rain damage. American Honda strongly
recommends that you leave the shipping wax/wrap guard on the vehicle for as long as possible.
Your dealership is responsible for maintaining the vehicle's finish after the shipping wax/ wrap
guard is removed.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Select a product line from one of the manufacturers listed in REQUIRED MATERIALS to clean the
paint surface and to wax it after cleaning. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for
each of the products you use.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Applicable To ALL
Issue Date
JUNE 3, 1994
SYMPTOM
When accelerating at low speeds or when stopping, a one-time click or creak is heard. The noise
may sound like it is coming from the "A" pillar area.
PROBABLE CAUSE
A lack of grease in the seat track slides allows the seat track rollers to move slightly.
DIAGNOSIS
Drive the car at low speeds while holding the left seat track. During acceleration and stopping, the
click or creak movement of the roller in the seat track should be felt.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Off ice. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Adjust the seat tracks, and apply additional grease to the slides.
1. Loosen the four seat track bolts; then, move the seat all the way back. Check to be sure that
both seat tracks are locked into position.
2. Torque the two front seat track bolts to 34 N-m (3.5 kg-m, 25 lb.ft.).
3. Move the seat all the way forward, and check to be sure that both seat tracks are locked into
position.
Page 5396
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
M/T - 5th Gear Grinds On Upshift
Synchronizer Hub: Customer Interest M/T - 5th Gear Grinds On Upshift
01-070
August 7, 2001
Applies To: 1994-00 Accord - ALL with M/T 1992-01 Prelude - ALL with M/T
Fifth Gear Grinds During Upshift (Replaces 95-057, dated October 17, 2000)
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace 5th gear, the sleeve set, and the 5th shift fork.
PARTS INFORMATION
1994-97 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-PX5-307, H/C 4921607 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1998-00 Accord
5th Gear: P/N 23581-PX5-A41, H/C 3858677 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P0S-306, H/C 5614011 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-J02, H/C 6309942
1992-96 Prelude S
* Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465* 5th Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959
5th Gear: P/N 23581-P16-540, H/C 3940061 Sleeve Set: P/N 23626-P16-307, H/C 6831465 5th
Shift Fork: P/N 24200-P16-020, H/C 6309959*
Page 1117
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Valves should be adjusted cold.
2. Set No.1 piston to TDC. "UP" mark on the camshaft pulley should be at top and TDC grooves on
the camshaft pulley should align with the
3. Adjust valves on No.1 cylinder. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw until the feeler
gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of
drag.
SPECS:
The Main Relay, located under the left side of the dashboard, supplies power to the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), injectors and supplies power to the fuel
pump for 2 seconds for starting purposes.
OPERATION
The first relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the
PGM-FI ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
^ The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and
also energized when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
Page 2443
Throttle Body
PURPOSE
The Throttle body, located at the opening of the intake manifold, controls intake air by varying
throttle plate opening. Also houses the idle air bypass port and adjusting screw
OPERATION
When the driver operates the accelerator pedal, the throttle valve is opened via the throttle cable.
Idle speed is set by adjusting the Idle Air Bypass Screw to vary the amount of air bypassing the
throttle valve.
Page 4348
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 2076
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor is located integral to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and cannot be accessed to be tested separately. To test,
substitute a known good PGM-FI ECM. If symptom or DTC indication goes away, replace original
PGM-FI ECM.
Page 2106
PURPOSE
The Electrical Load Detector (ELD), mounted in the under-hood relay box, senses the total
amperage draw placed on the electrical system.
OPERATION
The ELD sends a voltage reference to the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) which then determines and controls the charge rate of the alternator.
Page 1741
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE VALUES
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 1213
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 5267
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
21. Use the bail joint remover to separate the ball joint and lower arm.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
22. Remove the knuckle protector. 23. Remove the cotter pin and the upper ball joint nut. 24. Install
a 10 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the
threaded section of the ball joint pin
25. Use the ball joint remover to separate the ball joint and knuckle.
NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint.
26. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle using a
plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle.
Circuit Schematics
Page 215
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 4365
Voltage Check
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 1549
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 468
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS). Turn ignition switch on.
2. Measure voltage between YELLOW/WHITE (+) terminal and GREEN/WHITE (-) terminal.
Voltage should read approx 5.0 volts. If not, measure
^ If 5.0 volts is not measured, Turn ignition switch off, install test harness between PGM-FI ECM
and harness connector, turn ignition on. measure voltage between terminal D20 (+) and D22 (-), if
5.0 volts is measured, inspect for open in YELLOW/WHITE wire between D20 and TPS connector.
If 5.0 volts is not measured, substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
3. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin connector at the TPS. Install the test harness
between the PGM-FI ECM and the harness
4. Measure voltage between terminal D11 (+) and terminal D22 (-). Voltage should read approx.
0.5 volts at closed throttle position and approx. 4.5
volts at full throttle position with a smooth transition in between. If not, replace TPS with known
good part and retest.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Locations
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Circuit Schematics
Page 2788
3. Install the modified spring clips in the slots in the front of the center console.
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Locations
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid Valve is located at left front strut tower
Page 5697
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 5040
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
The Main Relay, located under the left side of the dashboard, supplies power to the Programmed
Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), injectors and supplies power to the fuel
pump for 2 seconds for starting purposes.
OPERATION
The first relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the
PGM-FI ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
^ The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and
also energized when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
Page 5390
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 4003
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 0.4 hour - Prelude 0.2 hour - Accord, Civic, and del Sol
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
PURPOSE
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is used to determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder
for sequential fuel injection, normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also
detects engine RPM.
OPERATION
The unit is made up of three separate sensors mounted inside the distributor. The Top Dead
Center (TDC) Sensor, the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, and the Cylinder Position (CYP)
Sensor. All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition
timing and to calculate engine RPM. ^
The TDC sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also
used as a backup signal in the event the CYP sensor signal becomes abnormal.
^ The CYP sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper
timing of the sequential fuel injection system for each cylinder.
^ The CKP sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects
engine speed.
Page 3563
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Locations
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Disassembly
1. Drain power steering fluid, then remove gearbox shield. 2. Using suitable flare nut wrenches,
disconnect four hydraulic lines from valve body. 3. Remove two valve body to gearbox attaching
bolts. 4. Remove O-rings and port orifices from gearbox.
5. Remove three valve body cap to valve body attaching bolts, Fig. 16. 6. Remove pressure control
valve and spring from valve body. 7. Remove pressure control valve and spring from valve body,
then check pressure control valve surface for any scoring or scratches. Slip it back into
valve body, and ensure it slides smoothly without drag and without side play.
8. Remove gain control valve and spring from valve body. 9. Inspect gain control valve surface for
any scoring or scratches, then slip valve back into valve body and ensure it slides smoothly without
drag or
side play.
10. Separate valve body and port housing. 11. Remove rollers from control valve by pushing valve
out one side of valve body, then the other. When removing rollers, hold plungers with your
play.
15. Inspect 4-way valve surface for any scoring or scratches, then slip 4-way valve back into valve
body and ensure it slides smoothly without drag or
side play.
16. Using 1/64 inch drill bit, remove sensor orifice and O-ring from valve body.
Page 4313
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 14, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, a system malfunction is indicated.
Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Air Bag Systems/Testing and Inspection/Initial
Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Page 5788
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
^ In-dash cellular phone units sent without an Out-of-Warranty In-Dash Cellular Phone Unit Repair
form, or with incomplete information, will be held until proper information is received.
^ In-dash cellular phone units sent without a check will be returned unrepaired.
In-dash cellular phone units that are damaged, either during shipping or by misuse, cannot be
^ Repaired or exchanged for the fixed price listed under SHIPPING PROCEDURE.
Motorola will inspect the damage, and you will be given an estimate of any additional charges.
If you approve the estimate, mail a check for the additional charges to the Service Center. If you do
not approve the estimate, the in-dash cellular phone unit will be returned to you. Motorola will issue
you a refund check at the end of the current month.
Page 844
ALB Checker Installation
2. Disconnect the ABS inspection connector (6P) from the cross-member under the passenger's
seat and connect the ABS inspection connector (6P)
3. Fill the modulator reservoir to the MAX level line and install the reservoir cap. 4. Start the engine
and allow it to idle for a few minutes, then stop it. Check the fluid level in the modulator reservoir
and refill to the MAX level line
if necessary.
5. Bleed high-pressure fluid from the maintenance bleeder with the special tool. 6. Start the engine
and allow it to idle for a few minutes, then stop it. Check the fluid level in the modulator reservoir
and refill to the MAX level line
if necessary.
7. Turn the Mode Selector switch of the checker to 2. 8. While depressing the brake pedal firmly,
push the "Start Test" switch to operate the modulator. There should be kickback on the brake
pedal. If
NOTE: Continue to depress the brake pedal firmly when operating the checker.
Mechanical Specifications
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Mechanical Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Specifications
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Specifications
RESISTANCE
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information
Connecting Rod: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information
Curious why connecting rods break? Afier all, these are heavy-duty parts specifically designed to
endure punishing forces and temperatures. Yet, every once in a while they do bend or break and
wind up as cool conversation pieces for a coffee table or desk.
Connecting rods break only after they've gotten bent. And they won't get bent unless the engine
hydro-locks or the rod bearings fail.
When troubleshooting a bent or broken connecting rod, here are some things to consider:
^ The number one culprit for connecting rod breakage is hydro-lock. This happens when liquid
(water or fuel) entering the combustion chamber exceeds
the chamber's volume. Since liquids don't compress, that extra volume in the chamber causes the
rod to bend. You won't really notice anything wrong, until that bent rod finally gives out and breaks.
This could happen if you're driving through deep, standing water and someone coming the other
way splashes water over your hood. On very rare occasions, a bad ECM/PCM or fuel injector can
cause too much fuel to enter a cylinder, causing hydro-lock and resulting in a bent rod. Before this
happens, though, there are usually some kind of drive ability problems that crop up and remain
afier the engine is fixed.
A bent rod might not show any symptoms until it actually breaks. But bent rods leave a
wider-than-normal carbon witness line in the cylinder because they're shorter. Typically, a healthy
engine has a carbon line that's 6 mm deep. An engine that's suffering from bent rods has a second
carbon line that's 9 to 12 mm deep.
^ Connecting rod bearings fail for a number of reasons. To properly determine what actually
caused a rod bearing to fail, you've got to take apart all rod
bearings and main bearings and compare them side by side. If all or most of the bearings and
journals show similar damage (scoring, exposed copper, or heat discoloration) the likely cause is
oil starvation, poor maintenance, customer abuse, or running the engine with an aftermarket power
booster (nitrous oxide setup, supercharger, turbocharger). If only the bearing or journal for the
failed rod looks bad but all the other ones look good (no scoring, no exposed copper or heat
discoloration) and the crankshaft journals are smooth with no heat discoloration, then that particular
bearing/ clearance would be suspect.
Page 4276
Air Bag: Service and Repair Airbag Assembly Disposal and Deployment
When handling a deployed air bag assembly, a face shield and rubber gloves should be worn.
Vehicle interior and A/C, vent, defroster and heater ducts should be vacuumed. If sinus or throat
irritation is encountered during air bag removal, exit vehicle and breathe fresh air. If skin irritation is
encountered, flush effected area with cool water. If sinus, throat, skin or any other type of irritation
continues, consult a physician. After handling a deployed air bag assembly, wash hands and rinse
thoroughly with water.
An air bag that has been deployed should be removed from the vehicle. Prior to removing a
deployed air bag assembly, place tape over air bag exhaust vents. After unit has been removed, it
should be placed in a heavy duty plastic bag and sealed securely. The sealed plastic bag should
then be placed with automotive scrap. An air bag assembly that has not been deployed, must be
deployed prior to disposal.
Page 3637
NOTE: ^ The 4W5 indicator light turns on in a narrow range. Do not overlook it. ^ Work with care so
as not to move the rear wheels from this neutral position.
13. Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor slowly counterclockwise, and check the range from
where the light starts to blink, to where it stops. 14. Tighten the rear sub steering angle sensor a
little. Repeat the step 13 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the
range
NOTE: ^ Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor counterclockwise to make the 4WS indicator light
blink. ^ If the rear sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off,
disconnect the connector, and straighten the wire.
15. Tighten the locknut while holding the rear sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
NOTE: Take care not to turn the rear sub steering angle sensor.
16. Disconnect the rear sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire. Reconnect the
connector.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the rear sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
4. Cut two pieces of EPT Sealer 5T, one measuring 330 x 40 mm, and the other measuring 170 x
40 mm.
5. Peel off the backing and attach the EPT Sealer 5T to the underside of the rear headliner,
between the headliner and the wiring harness.
6. Reinstall the headliner, pushing all of its clips into place. Also, make sure the sides of the
headliner are flush with the rear pillar trim.
7. On cars with a high-mount brake light, reinstall the brake light cover.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
Page 1801
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
DISASSEMBLY
Page 477
Ground Distribution Schematics
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Mainshaft Speed Sensor
1. Remove the 6 mm bolt from the transmission housing and remove the mainshaft and
countershaft speed sensors. 2. Replace the 0-ring with a new one before reassembling the
mainshaft and countershaft speed sensors.
Page 1650
8. Measure voltage between D10 (+) terminal and A26 (-) terminal. While measuring, turn headlight
switch to second position (low). Voltage should
9. If voltage drops but DTC indication or symptom still exist substitute known good PGM-FI ECM.
Radio - Buzzing In The Driver's Door
SYMPTOM
A buzzing noise can be heard in the driver's door when the audio system volume is turned up to
the midpoint or higher.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Apply EPT Sealer 10T (see PARTS INFORMATION) to the back of the door lock control unit.
1. Remove the driver's door panel. Refer to page 20-3 of the service manual.
PARTS INFORMATION
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Page 5659
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a
third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor
underneath the seat.
3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control
unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 5910
1. Disconnect 5-P connector at wiper motor, Fig. 12. 2. Connect battery positive to B (green/black)
terminal and negative to L (blue) terminal. Motor should run smoothly at low speed. If it does not,
repair or replace as necessary.
Model ALL
[NEW]
* Brake disc replacement under warranty is not allowed unless the disc is beyond its maximum
refinishing limit. If a disc is within its limit, it must be refinished. For front and rear brake disc
maximum refinishing limit specifications, refer to section 19 of the appropriate service manual
(section 5A2 for Passports).
Front Brake Discs Whenever a front brake disc is replaced, it must be refinished on the car.
Refinishing new front discs is included in the flat-rate time for disc replacement.
To avoid brake vibration, always refinish front brake discs on the car with the Kwik-Way or Snap-on
brake lathe. Purchasing information for these lathes is in Service Bulletin 87-034, Front Brake Disc
Refinishing Equipment, filed in the Special Tools section.
Follow these tips to get the best results from your on-car brake lathe. (For detailed instructions,
refer to the lathe's operating manual.)
^ On 2WD vehicles, lift both front wheels off the ground. On 4WD vehicles, lift all four wheels off
the ground.
^ On 4WD Passports, make sure that the hub nut is properly adjusted (with no end play) and the
transmission is in 4H.
^ On Preludes with ATTS (Active Torque Transfer System), let both front wheels turn freely On
other vehicles, use a tie-down strap to secure the disc opposite to the one being refinished.
Page 3651
NOTE: ^ The 4W5 indicator light turns on in a narrow range. Do not overlook it. ^ Work with care so
as not to move the rear wheels from this neutral position.
13. Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor slowly counterclockwise, and check the range from
where the light starts to blink, to where it stops. 14. Tighten the rear sub steering angle sensor a
little. Repeat the step 13 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the
range
NOTE: ^ Turn the rear sub steering angle sensor counterclockwise to make the 4WS indicator light
blink. ^ If the rear sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off,
disconnect the connector, and straighten the wire.
15. Tighten the locknut while holding the rear sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
NOTE: Take care not to turn the rear sub steering angle sensor.
16. Disconnect the rear sub steering angle sensor connector to straighten the wire. Reconnect the
connector.
NOTE: Do not contaminate the rear sub steering angle sensor connector terminals with mud, oil,
and grease.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Locations
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
1. Locate the security system control unit mounted under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst to confirm that you're in the programming mode. The siren then emits
prompting chirps at three-second intervals.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to let you know that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If
you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter or
between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps, and the system exits the
programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch on, then turn it off.
9. Push all the function buttons on each transmitter to make sure they work correctly.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 10
Page 4870
Model 1994
Applicable To ALL
Paint formulations are determined by each paint company. For questions regarding formulas or
matching, contact your local paint distributor or the paint company's nearest regional office. The
information provided is for reference only. American Honda does not endorse any paint company
or type of paint.
The original paint is acrylic enamel. Honda paint codes which include "M" are metallic colors, those
which include "P" are pearlescent colors.
NOTE:
Herberts Standox and Spies Hecker use the Honda Paint Code as their paint intermix code.
Japan-Produced Cars
Page 4422
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip into place.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter, and install it in the new one.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
8319. For each set ordered, send a dealer check for $24.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this
address:
Alpine Electronics of America 19145 Gramercy Place Torrance, CA 90501 Attention: Al Sula
(Parts)
Alpine's ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Additional transmitters can be ordered
from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures.
If you have questions on how to order the four ROM chip set, call Alpine's Parts Department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Page 2915
13. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure the transmission shifts properly.
Disclaimer
Page 4720
Locations
NOTE: The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's code
number before
After service, reconnect power to the radio and turn it on. When the word "CODE" is displayed,
enter the customer's 5-digit code to restore radio operation.
Refer to the TSB listed below for information on how to obtain the code in the event the customer
does not have the code.
TSB # 98-026
BACKGROUND
This service bulletin describes where to attach the audio unit anti-theft labels that come in the glove
box of vehicles equipped with anti-theft audio systems.
If a vehicle has an anti-theft audio system, there are three peel-off labels in the glove box. Two of
the labels have both the anti-theft code and the audio unit's serial number, and a third label
contains only the serial number for the audio unit.
During Pre Delivery Inspection, stick the label with only the serial number on the glove box. If the
radio code ever needs to be retrieved through the HONDANET 2000 system, this will save you the
time and labor of removing the audio unit to record the serial number.
NOTES:
- Also perform this procedure when installing an accessory audio unit that is equipped with an
anti-theft system.
- If a remanufactured audio unit is installed in a vehicle, remove the old labels and install new ones
on the glove box, Radio Identification Card, and the vehicle's service records.
- If the glove box is ever replaced, transfer the labels from the old glove box to the new one.
PROCEDURE
Specifications
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
MODEL 1992-95
BACKGROUND
When an SRS cable reel assembly is removed and set aside during vehicle repairs, the cable reel
may rotate inside the assembly so it is no longer centered. If the assembly is reinstalled with the
reel off-center, the cable can break when the steering wheel is turned to full lock. The cable reel
holding fixture locks the reel while the assembly is off the vehicle, keeping it centered for
reinstallation.
7. Start the engine, run the air conditioner, and test the air temperature at the vents. If the system is
blowing warm air, troubleshoot and repair the system before continuing.
8. Go to REPAIR COMPLETION.
Repair Completion
2. Center punch a completion mark above the third character (M) of the engine compartment VIN.
May 1997
We are sending you this letter to notify you of a potential problem with your Honda.
The air conditioning condenser may corrode if the car is regularly driven in at least one of the
following conditions. -
Corrosion may perforate the condenser, causing the refrigerant to leak out. Your air conditioner will
then no longer cool or dehumidify
Call the local Honda dealer and make an appointment to have your car repaired. They will replace
the air conditioning condenser with an improved part. They will also recharge the air conditioning
system with refrigerant if it has leaked out. This work will be done free of charge. Please plan to
leave your car at the dealer for at least half a day to allow them flexibility in scheduling.
What to do if you feel this notice is in error. This notice was mailed to you according to the most
current information we have available. If you no longer own this Prelude, or some information in
this notice is incorrect, please fill out and return the enclosed, postage paid Information Change
Card. This will help us update our records.
If you have questions about this notice, or need assistance with contacting a Honda dealer, please
call the Honda Consumer Affairs Department at (800) 999-1009.
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 3467
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 4807
Testing For Voltage
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
Components
Components
Components
A broken border line indicates that only part of the component is shown.
Components
The name of the component appears next to its upper right corner followed by notes about its
function.
Page 5061
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 14, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, a system malfunction is indicated.
Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag Systems/Testing and
Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Page 3546
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The
transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send
a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts
Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address:
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
PURPOSE
The TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor is used to determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder
for sequential fuel injection, normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also
detects engine RPM.
OPERATION
The unit is made up of three separate sensors mounted inside the distributor. The Top Dead
Center (TDC) Sensor, the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, and the Cylinder Position (CYP)
Sensor. All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition
timing and to calculate engine RPM. ^
The TDC sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also
used as a backup signal in the event the CYP sensor signal becomes abnormal.
^ The CYP sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper
timing of the sequential fuel injection system for each cylinder.
^ The CKP sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects
engine speed.
Key Interlock Solenoid
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the ED-18 user's manual.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the ED-18 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
4. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
Page 5553
Headlamp Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 2827
NOTE: Replace the bearing with a new one after removal.
27. Separate the hub from the knuckle using the special tools and a hydraulic press.
CAUTION: ^ Take care not to distort the splash guard. ^ Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling
when pressed clear.
29. Remove the circlip and the splash guard from the knuckle.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 5452
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Locations
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
Locations
10. Install the caliper on the caliper bracket and tighten the caliper mounting bolts.
11. Install the caliper shield. 12. Depress the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes
work, then road-test.
NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake
pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal
pedal stroke.
Page 4442
Page 2607
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the two and eight pin connectors from the distributor. 2. Disconnect the spark plug
wires from the distributor cap.
Distributor Removal
3. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
Distributor Installation
1. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it. 2. Slip the distributor into position. The lugs on
the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the
3. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily. 4. Connect the two pin and eight pin
connectors to the distributor.
Page 4480
CD Changer Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
CD Player Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 3579
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Page 96
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Locations
NOTE: Perform an input test for the Ignition Control Module (ICM) only after finishing the
fundamental tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions system. also verify that the
tachometer operates normally.
1. Remove the distributor cap, the distributor rotor, and the inner cover.
2. Disconnect the BLACK/YELLOW, GREEN, YELLOW/GREEN, and BLUE wires from the ICM. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW wire and chassis
ground. There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check the BLACK/YELLOW wire between the Ignition Coil and the
ICM.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the GREEN wire and chassis ground.
There should be battery voltage.
Ignition coil.
5. Check the YELLOW/GREEN wire between the PGM-IG ECM and the ICM. 6. Check the BLUE
wire between the tachometer and the ICM. 7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
Locations
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1186
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Terminals - "T"
Terminals
Each "T" terminal (ring type) is numbered for reference and location. A "T" terminal is secured with
a screw or bolt.
SYMBOLS
The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:
BLK ......................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... black
BLU ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ blue
BRN .....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... brown
GRN .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... green
GRY .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ gray
LT BLU ................................................................................................................................................
.................................................... light blue
LT GRN ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. light green
ORN .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ orange
PNK .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................................ pink
PUR .....................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... purple
RED .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. red
WHT ....................................................................................................................................................
........................................................... white
YEL ......................................................................................................................................................
........................................................ yellow
Wires
Wires
An wavy line at the end of a wire means the wire is broken and continues on another image.
Page 3557
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Page 4526
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Locations
4. If the measurements are not within the specifications, adjust as required by turning the tie-rods.
NOTE: After adjusting, recheck the front wheel toe and readjust if necessary. Reposition the tie-rod
boot if twisted or displaced.
Page 4581
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
2. Check for continuity between terminals in each switch position, Fig. 41.
Page 900
Power Distribution
Page 2025
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
RESISTANCE
6. Reinstall the hinge pin removed in step 4. Position the pin so it sticks out approximately 2 mm
above the lid.
7. Reposition the other hinge pin by using a small screwdriver to push the pin outward. Position the
pin so it sticks out approximately 2 mm above the lid.
Page 1870
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 2200
Ground
This ground symbol (dot and 3 lines) overlapping the component means the housing of the
component is grounded to the car frame or to a metal part connected to the frame.
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5552
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 901
Power Distribution
Page 5785
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 5469
Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Page 3035
3. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown above, until air bubbles no longer
appear in the fluid. 4. Check brake performance by road testing.
Specifications
Fuel Filter: Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Fuel Filter
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
INSPECTION
There are two tests of the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor; Electrical test and
Mechanical test.
Electrical Test
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector from the MAP sensor. Turn ignition
on.
MAP Sensor Connector Terminal Identification
2. Measure voltage between RED/WHITE (+) terminal and chassis ground. Voltage should read 5.0
volts. 3. Measure voltage between RED/WHITE (+) terminal and BLUE/WHITE (-) terminal. Voltage
should read 5.0 volts. 4. Measure voltage between WHITE/BLUE (+) terminal and BLUE/WHITE (-)
terminal. voltage should read 5.0 volts. 5. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin
connector at the Map sensor. Connect the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) and the harness. Turn ignition switch on.
6. Measure voltage between terminals D17 (+) and D21 (-). Voltage should read 3.0 volts. If not,
replace MAP sensor. If voltage OK, substitute
NOTE: If voltage readings at steps 2,3 and 4 do not test ok, inspect RED/WHITE (+), BLUE/WHITE
(-) and WHITE/BLUE (+) wires between the three pin connector and the PGM-FI ECM harness
connector for shorts and opens.
Mechanical Test
- The brake fluid may be sucked out through the top of the modulator tank with a syringe. It may
also be drained through the pump joint after disconnecting the pump hose.
- Loosen the bleed screw and pump the brake pedal to drain the brake fluid from the master
cylinder.
WARNING: High-pressure fluid will squirt out if the shaded hose and pipe are removed.
Locations
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
INSPECTION
Page 5347
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 2199
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Page 2580
Ground
This symbol represents the bus inside a ground connector. The dots represent tabs on the bus that
the wire terminals connect to. The ground symbol (large dot) is the connection between the bus
and metal (grounded) part of the car.
Shielding
Shielding
This represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. The shielding is
always connected to ground.
Splices
Splices
Splices are shown as a dot. Their location and the number of wires may vary depending on the
harness manufacturer.
Switches
Switches
These switches move together; the broken straight line between them means they are
mechanically connected.
Switches
Page 5619
Key Cylinder Lamp: Description and Operation
Entry Light Timer System
Voltage is provided at all times to the ignition key light in the steering lock assembly and to the
integrated control unit through fuse 46. When you open the driver's door, the integrated control unit
provides ground for the ignition key light. The light goes ON and stays ON for 10 seconds after the
door is closed.
Page 3734
3. Release the parking brake lever fully and turn the ignition switch on (engine off). Be sure that the
parking brake indicator light goes off. 4. Turn the ignition switch off.
Sub Steering Angle Sensor Adjustment
6. Remove the cap bolt and sealing washer from the rear actuator. Screw the special tool in as far
as it will go. 7. Remove the rear sub steering angle sensor wire from the clamp and disconnect the
connector.
8. Loosen the angle sensor locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, then back it off about 1/2 turn
and connect the connector. 9. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position to prevent the
rear wheels from steering if the engine is started in error.
11. Turn the rear left wheel fully to the left by hand, then turn it slowly to the right to turn the 4W5
indicator light on (i.e. rear main steering angle
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number '2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C416, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C416.
Component Locations
To see where a component or connector is located on the car, look up its photo number in the
Component Location section. The photo will also tell you the color of the connector, and how many
cavities it has.
Component Locations
If there is no photo number below or beside a connector, ground, or terminal number, look up that
connector, ground, or terminal number in the appropriate Connector Identification Chart. The chart
will tell you the color of a connector, how many cavities it has, where it's located, and what
component or harness it connects to. Along with this chart you'll find an image giving illustration of
the related harness.
Page 4506
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 95
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Page 1233
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
7. Using thin blade screwdriver, lift SRS to under-instrument panel fuse connector lid, Fig. 14, then
press tab down and slide connector out. 8. Reverse procedure to reactivate system, noting
following:
a. Slide harness electrical connector onto fuse panel connections until it clicks, then close
connector lid. b. Ensure all red short connectors have been removed and placed in their holders. c.
Prior to connecting battery ground and positive cables, ensure all supplemental restraint system
electrical connectors have been properly
connected.
d. After battery cables have been connected, turn ignition switch to On position. SRS indicator lamp
should light for approximately six seconds.
If lamp does not light or remains on longer than six seconds, a system malfunction is indicated.
Refer to Testing and Inspection / Procedures See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag Systems/Testing and
Inspection/Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
e. Turn radio control to On. When word Code appears on display panel, enter five-digit theft
protection code number.
Page 2160
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Page 4735
Ordering a Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
- For testing at connectors other than the Test Harness, bring the Tester Probe into contact with the
terminal from the connector side of Wire Harness Connectors in the Engine Compartment. For
female connectors, just touch lightly with the Tester Probe and do not insert the probe.
Troubleshooting
INSPECTION
If, after Performing individual component tests, it is determined that the problem(s) may exist in the
Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM), It will be necessary to
substitute the PGM-FI ECM with a known good PGM-FI ECM and retest as needed.
Page 2218
Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp
Step 4: Crimp the Wires
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 5174
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 3894
33. Install the circlip securely in the knuckle groove. 34. Install the splash guard and tighten the
screws.
35. Install the hub on the knuckle using the special tools shown and a hydraulic press.
Installation
CAUTION:
Page 131
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair
REM0VAL
1. Turn ignition switch off. 2. Remove the right door sill moulding and the small cover on the right
kick panel. Pull the carpet back to expose the PGM-FI ECM. 3. Unbolt the PGM-FI ECM cover. 4.
Disconnect the PGM-FI ECM connector and remove the PGM-FI ECM.
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the PGM-FI ECM connector. 2. Position the PGM-FI ECM onto the bolts on the floor. 3.
Reinstall the protective cover and secure. 4. Reposition the carpet, kick panel and sill trim.
Page 4745
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 3
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the HONDANET 2000
system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Procedure 4
kg-m, 22 lb ft).
14. Install the balancer gear case to the oil pump. Torque the 8 x 1.25 mm bolt to 25 Nm (2.5 kg-m,
18 lb ft).
NOTE: Align the groove on the pulley edge with the pointer on the gear case while holding the rear
balancer with 6 x 100 mm bolt, then install the gear case.
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels. 2. Drain transaxle. 3. Raise locking
tab on spindle nut, then remove nut. 4. Remove damper fork, then the cotter pin from lower arm
ball joint castle nut and remove nut. 5. Install hex nut on ball joint. Ensure nut is flush with ball joint
pin end, or threaded section of ball joint pin might be damaged by ball joint
remover.
6. Separate ball joint and lower arm using ball joint remover tool No. 07MAC-SL00100, or
equivalent. Be careful not to damage ball joint boot. 7. Pry driveshaft assembly with screwdriver to
force set ring at driveshaft end past groove. 8. Pull on inboard joint and remove driveshaft from
differential case or bearing support as an assembly. Do not pull on driveshaft, as inboard joint
may come apart. Use care when prying out assembly, and pull it straight to avoid damaging
differential oil seal or intermediate shaft outer seal.
9. Pull knuckle outward and remove driveshaft outboard joint from front wheel hub using plastic
hammer.
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Disassembly
- WARNING: Never use an air hose or dry brush to clean brake assemblies.
CAUTION:
- Do not spill brake fluid on the car; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
- To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
- Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.
2. Remove the lock pin and clevis pin. Remove the cable clip and disconnect the cable from the
parking brake arm.
3. Remove the banjo bolt and two sealing washers. 4. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and
caliper body from the bracket. 5. Remove the pad spring from the caliper body.
Page 5830
Tail Lamp: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 1899
INSPECTION
1. Install the test harness between the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module
(PGM-FI ECM) and the harness. 2. Measure for battery voltage between terminals B9(+) and
A26(-) when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. 3. If no voltage is measured, check
the No. 2 Starter Signal fuse located in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 4. If fuse tests ok repair
BLUE/RED wire between PGM-FI ECM and Starter Signal fuse as needed.
Page 2334
2. Set No.1 piston to TDC. "UP" mark on the camshaft pulley should be at top and TDC grooves on
the camshaft pulley should align with the
3. Adjust valves on No.1 cylinder. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw until the feeler
gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of
drag.
SPECS:
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 1577
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3478
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 5698
Marker Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
2. Check for continuity between terminals, Fig. 15. 3. Adjust pedal height if necessary or replace
switch if defective.
Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal Installation Tool
Balance Shaft Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal Installation Tool
99-037
Applies To: 1990-99 Accord - ALL with L4 engine 1992-99 Prelude - ALL 1995-98 Odyssey - ALL
A special tool is required to properly install the front balancer shaft oil seal on the vehicles listed
above.
The balancer shaft oil seal installation procedure in the service manual does not install the balancer
shaft oil seal to the proper depth. Improper oil seal installation depth may cause premature oil seal
failure. The procedure in the service manual should not be used. Cross out the balancer shaft oil
seal installation procedure in the service manuals, and refer to this service bulletin.
Seal Installer: T/N O7XAF-PT00100, H/C 6186050 (Shipped to all current dealers on May 25,
1999)
Additional seal installers are available from American Honda using normal parts ordering
procedures.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
PROCEDURE
1. Clean the balancer shaft and the balancer shaft oil seal housing with contact cleaner.
2. Dry the balancer shaft and the balancer shaft oil seal housing.
3. Apply a light coat of grease to the balancer shaft and to the lip of the new seal. Do not lubricate
or apply sealant to the outside of the seal.
5. Place the seal installer on the balancer shaft, then thread the installer shaft into the balancer
shaft.
Page 5222
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Circuit Schematics
Page 1863
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
Insert the bolt into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
25. Loosen the adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. 26.
Install the timing balancer belt. 27. Turn the crankshaft pulley about one turn, then tighten the
adjusting nut to the specified torque.
NOTE: Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any extra
pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
Page 2546
Installation
CAUTION:
Page 1700
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 216
the load side.
3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the
harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or
DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading
(ZERO), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. 2. Connect the short finder across the
battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the
circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the
wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short
finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will show current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the
wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.
28. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm. 29. Remove the crankshaft
pulley. 30. Install the timing belt lower cover. 31. Install a new seal around the adjusting nut. Do not
loosen the nut. 32. Install the timing belt upper cover. 33. Install the crankshaft pulley. 34. Coat the
threads and seating face of the pulley bolt with engine oil. Install and tighten to the specified torque.
Circuit Schematics
Page 359
Circuit Schematics
Page 1452
1. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay. 2. Connect ohmmeter between relay
terminals A and B, Fig. 10. 3. Meter should indicate no continuity. 4. Connect battery voltage
across terminals C and D. 5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between
terminals A and B.
Page 1793
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the
wires; you might break them inside.
Ignition Cable Inspection
1. Check the condition of the wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken
or distorted, replace the wire.
2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance. 3. If resistance exceeds 25 k ohms, replace
the ignition wire.
Page 5604
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 3594
Standard:
Steel Wheel: 0 - 1.0 mm (0 - 0.04 in) Aluminum Wheel: 0 - 0.7 mm (0 - 0.03 in)
Page 2128
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S), located at the exhaust manifold or pipe with the sensor end
extending into the exhaust stream, supplies a voltage signal to inform the Programmed Fuel
Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) of the air/fuel mixture in the engine.
OPERATION
The HO2S sensor uses zirconia and platinum to compare exhaust oxygen content with that of the
outside air. When heated by the combination of its internal heater and exhaust gases, the sensor
supplies a low voltage signal (0 - 1 volt) to the PGM-FI ECM. When the engine is running rich, the
oxygen differential is relatively high so signal voltage increases. When a lean condition occurs the
difference in oxygen content is much lower causing a lower voltage signal to be produced.
Page 1182
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Page 784
If your belt tension gauge is damaged, replacement parts are available from America Kowa Seiki.
They are:
(800) 824-9655
^ Pack the belt tension gauge in a suitable box. Use "bubble pack" to protect the gauge.
1. Disconnect actuator cable from actuator rod and 4-P connector. 2. Supply battery voltage to D
terminal and ground A, B and C terminals, Fig. 12. 3. Connect a vacuum pump to check valve and
apply vacuum to actuator. 4. Actuator rod should pull in completely. If rod pulls in only part way or
not at all, check for leaking vacuum line or defective solenoid. 5. With voltage and vacuum still
applied, try to pull actuator rod out by hand. Actuator rod should not move. If rod moves, it is
defective and should
be replaced.
6. Disconnect ground from C terminal. Actuator rod should return. If actuator rod does not return
and ventilator hose and filter are free, solenoid
7. Repeat test with battery ground wire disconnected from A terminal. Actuator rod should return. If
actuator rod does not return and ventilator hose
Model ALL
This Service Bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering*,
and transmitter batteries. A transmitter quick reference guide is included.
Use this index to find the information for the vehicle you are working on.
Civic
1992-93 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 8
del Sol
1993 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 7
Accord
1991-93 EX Wagon 3
1991-93 LX Wagon 4
1994-97 EX Wagon 6
Prelude
1988-91 1
1995-97 EX 6
Passport
PARTS INFORMATION
Transmitter ordering information and battery part numbers are in each transmitter section.
Page 5541
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Photo 6
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Unsightly stains on chrome or stainless steel trim around the door glass no longer means trim
replacement. A good-quality chrome or aluminum polish, some careful masking to protect rubber
molding and painted surfaces, and a little bit of elbow grease, can work wonders to get back that
showroom shine. A couple of good brands to try are Mothers PowerMetal(TM), or Meguiars All
Metal Polish or NXT Generation(TM) All Metal Polish.
Page 242
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Page 4310
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service Precautions
1. On models with 3-P SRS connectors, install red short connectors on air bags prior to
disconnecting any part of SRS wiring harness. 2-P
2. Always use test harnesses. Do not use test probes directly on component connector pins or
wires. 3. When connecting any test harnesses, push connectors straight in until secure. Do not
bend connector pins. 4. Always keep red short connector on air bag connector when harness is
disconnected. 5. Always store air bag assembly with pad surface facing upward. 6. Do not attempt
to disassemble air bag assembly. 7. An air bag that has been deployed cannot be repaired or
reused. 8. Keep air bag assembly free of oil and grease. 9. Do not expose air bag assembly to
temperatures above 212°F.
10. Do not use SRS components from another vehicle. Always install new replacement
components. 11. Do not paint air bag assembly to correct cosmetic flaws. It must be replaced. 12.
Inspect all components prior to installation. Do not install any that appear to have been improperly
handled or stored or that show any signs of
damage.
13. When repairing vehicle, system should be disarmed as outlined under Technician Safety
Information. 14. When performing service procedures, do not expose sensors or wiring or other
SRS components to heat guns, welding or spray guns. 15. SRS wiring should not be spliced,
soldered or repaired. 16. Use only special digital multimeter tool No. KS-AHM-32-003, or
equivalent, digital multimeter with 0.0 mA or smaller output when switched to
lowest ohmmeter range to inspect system. Analog or testers with higher outputs can damage
circuits or cause accidental air bag deployment and, if equipped, seat belt pretensioner activation.
17. Do not bump SRS unit whenever ignition is turned On, or has been Off for less than three
minutes. Unwanted deployment could result.
Page 2047
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Service and Repair
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair
If equipped with maintenance reminder flag:
After completing the required service, the maintenance flags may be reset by inserting the ignition
key into the appropriate slot, on the instrument below the indicator flag. When the ignition key is
inserted into the slot, the indicator flag should change to green.
1. Turn off the engine. 2. Press and hold the select/reset button(s) on the instrument panel, then
turn the ignition switch ON (Position II). 3. Hold the button(s) for at least 10 seconds, until the
indicator resets.
Page 5696
Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector
Fig. 20 Typical Pull-to-Seat Connector and Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard
SERVICE TIP:
There's a new performance standard for engine oil: GF-4. It was jointly developed by automotive
and oil experts, and it represents a significant performance upgrade and improvement in fuel
economy. GF-4 engine oils must pass grueling tests totaling over 500 hours. On top of this, Honda
Genuine engine oils are also tested to ensure specific compatibility with Honda vehicles.
GF-4 engine oil is compatible with all current and earlier model year Honda cars and trucks. It also
provides these added benefits:
While Honda has upgraded its engine oil to GF-4, other brands may not yet be at this new
standard. Keep in mind you must use Honda Genuine engine oil for all warranty repairs. If you use
some other brand of oil for non-warranty repairs, make sure that oil meets the GF-4 standard. We
recommend you stop using non-GF-4 engine oils and check with your supplier that you're
purchasing GF-4 oil.
Engine oil produced after April 1, 2005, that meets the GF-4 standard, must post this starburst
certification mark on the container. Always look for this mark; some oil container labels won't
specifically refer to GF-4.
Page 5049
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 5205
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 1675
Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch sends a signal to the Programmed Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI ECM) to increase idle speed when the demand for power
steering causes the idle to drop.
OPERATION
When the power steering is operated a signal is sent to the PGM-FI ECM which then commands
the Idle Air Control Valve to raise the idle speed compensating for the increased engine load.
Locations
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the inner components, do not turn the shaft more than 1/2 turn.
10. Turn the shaft clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn to compress the adjusting spring B in the caliper body.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the inner components, do not turn the shaft more than 1/2 turn.
11. Lower the locknuts fully and tighten the locknuts securely.
NOTE: Keep the locknuts in this position until you reinstall the circlip.
Page 5322
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
The low oil pressure indicator light works in two ways: it flashes continuously following a
momentary loss of engine oil pressure, or it goes ON and stays ON with a complete loss of engine
oil pressure.
When the engine first starts, before its oil pressure rises above 4.3 psi, voltage is applied to the
closed and grounded engine oil pressure switch and the light comes ON to test the bulb.
With the engine running, voltage is applied at the WHT/BLU wire of the integrated control unit. With
normal engine oil pressure, the engine oil pressure switch is open and the low oil pressure indicator
light does not come ON. If the engine oil pressure switch closes momentarily (more than 0.5
seconds) but then opens again, the YEL/RED wire at the integrated control unit will sense ground
through the switch. The integrated control unit will then provide and remove ground for the low oil
pressure indicator light through the YEL/RED wire. The light will flash ON and OFF until you turn
the ignition switch OFF. The flashing feature will not work until 30 seconds after initial voltage is
applied to the WHT/BLU wire of the oil pressure indicator flasher circuit. This delay keeps the low
oil pressure indicator light from coming ON during engine warmup.
If engine oil pressure falls below 4.3 psi and does not increase, the engine oil pressure switch will
stay closed. The low oil pressure indicator light will then come ON and stay ON.
Page 3852
8. Loosen the locknut. Tighten the locknut fully by hand, back it off about 3/4 turns and connect the
connector. 9. Turn the ignition switch on (engine off
10. Set the steering wheel in the straight driving position. Set the front main steering angle sensor
electronically in neutral (4WS indicator light is
NOTE: Hold the steering wheel in this position until adjustment is completed. If the steering wheel
is moved in error, repeat the adjustment procedure starting with step 10.
11. Turn the front sub steering angle sensor slowly clockwise, and check the range from where the
light starts to blink to where it stops. 12. Loosen the front sub steering angle sensor. Repeat the
step 11 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the range from
NOTE: ^ Turn the front sub steering angle sensor clockwise to make the 4WS indicator light blink. ^
If the sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off, disconnect
the connector, and straighten the wire.
13. Tighten the locknut while holding the front sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
Page 1857
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Page 4105
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 3784
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 4533
1. Stick the label containing only the serial number information on the glove box.
2. Stick the remaining two labels on the Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card and on the vehicle's
service records.
Page 4025
Blower Motor: Diagnostic Aids
Electronic Component Handling
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Page 5408
Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
REASSEMBLY
Rotor Positioning
1. Install the rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (toward the No. 1 cylinder).
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition off 2. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
3. With cold engine measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the Sensor. Resistance
should measure 0.4 - 4.0 k ohms depending on ambient
4. If resistance is out of range replace Intake Air Temp Sensor. 5. To check power to sensor, turn
key to Ign. position, measure voltage between RED/YELLOW terminal at connector and body
ground. Also test
between RED/YELLOW terminal and GREEN/WHITE terminal. Each reading should be approx. 5.0
volts.
Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Page 1362
CAUTION: Carefully remove the ignition wires by pulling on the rubber boots. Do not bend the
wires; you might break them inside.
Ignition Cable Inspection
1. Check the condition of the wire terminals. If any terminal is corroded, clean it, and if it is broken
or distorted, replace the wire.
2. Connect ohmmeter probes and measure resistance. 3. If resistance exceeds 25 k ohms, replace
the ignition wire.
Locations
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Page 5027
Connectors
The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left,
looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (or looking at the female terminals from the
wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities
are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
Connectors-"C"
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown here is #6.
Connectors-"C"
Connectors-"C"
This means the connector connects to a lead (pigtail) wired directly to the component.
Locations
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Removal and Installation
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
The Fuel Line system utilizes three sets of fuel lines located underneath the vehicle on the left side.
The Fuel Feed (Supply) Line delivers fuel pressurized by the in-tank electric fuel pump from the
fuel tank. The fuel is fed into the fuel filter, from there to the fuel rail.
This line is connected between the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel tank. When the fuel rail
pressure exceeds the specified amount, the pressure regulator opens and bleeds the excess fuel
through this line and back into the fuel tank.
This line is connected between the fuel tank and the charcoal canister for evaporative emissions
control. The Fuel Vapor Line is connected to the fuel cut-off valve at the top of the fuel tank. When
the vapor pressure in the fuel tank exceeds the specified value of the two-way valve, the two-way
valve opens and purges the vapors to the charcoal canister through the fuel cut-off valve,
fuel/vapor separator and the Fuel Vapor Line.
Page 501
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
3. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle
to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on all other transmitters. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle.)
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the
programming mode.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 9
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times,
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward, and locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor,
underneath the seat.
3. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit with a pen or pencil.
When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Check that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front marker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by
the control unit.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Page 243
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
The speed sensor is a non-contact type which detects the rotating speeds of the wheel. It is
composed of a permanent magnet and coil. When the gear pulsers at each wheel turn, the
magnetic coil in the speed sensor alternates, generating voltages with frequency in proportion to
wheel rotating speed.
Page 292
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation
A/C Pressure Switch
The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high
temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and
open the circuit This removes ground, and the compressor will stop running.
Page 165
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
Page 4567
Connector
This symbol represents one bus inside the cap of a junction connector. A junction connector cap
contains several buses, but only the one affecting that circuit will be shown. The dots represent
tabs on the bus that the wire terminals connect to. Remaining wires to the same bus are
represented by a broken line.
Diodes
Diodes
A rectifier diode works like a one way valve. It allows current to flow only in the direction of the
arrow.
Diodes
A Zener diode blocks reverse current at normal voltages just like a rectifier diode. At high voltages,
however, a Zener diode allows current to flow in reverse.
Fuses
Fuses
Ground - "G"
Ground
This symbol means the end of the wire is attached (grounded) to the car frame or to a metal part
connected to the frame. Each wire ground (G) is numbered for reference.
Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Wheel Bearing: Customer Interest Suspension - Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
97-018
SYMPTOM
A whining noise from the rear wheels. At first, only at highway speeds, but, over time, becoming
noticeable at low speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rear bearing hub caps were not manufactured correctly, allowing water to leak into the hub
bearing assemblies, and contaminating the bearings.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
1992 - 96 Prelude - ALL 1990 - 96 Accord - ALL 1997 Accord - 2-door thru VIN 1HGCD7...
VA009547
- 4-door thru VIN 1HGCD5... VA069560 - V6 thru VIN 1HGCE6... VA007445 - Wagon thru VIN
1HGCE1 ... VA003363
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the failed hub bearing assembly, then install new rear bearing hub caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Prelude
Si/Si 4WS/SE/VTEC
S model
1990-93 Accord
4-door and 2-door w/ABS
Wagon w/ ABS
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Page 950
Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Page 5007
Seat Belt And Ignition Key Reminders
Page 1552
NOTE: Hold the steering wheel in this position until adjustment is completed. If the steering wheel
is moved in error, repeat the adjustment procedure starting with step 10.
11. Turn the front sub steering angle sensor slowly clockwise, and check the range from where the
light starts to blink to where it stops. 12. Loosen the front sub steering angle sensor. Repeat the
step 11 several times to set the sub steering angle sensor in the center of the range from
NOTE: ^ Turn the front sub steering angle sensor clockwise to make the 4WS indicator light blink. ^
If the sub steering angle sensor wire is twisted excessively, turn the ignition switch off, disconnect
the connector, and straighten the wire.
13. Tighten the locknut while holding the front sub steering angle sensor with a wrench.
Page 85
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the page, to ground, at the bottom.
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
All connectors are numbered (C709, C416, etc.). Below each connector number (except those for
components) is the number of a photo showing the connector's location on the car. Connector
cavities are also numbered. The numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector
as seen. Disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.
Page 4443
Page 4616
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Off ice. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
SYMPTOM
A buzzing noise can be heard in the driver's door when the audio system volume is turned up to
the midpoint or higher.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Apply EPT Sealer 10T (see PARTS INFORMATION) to the back of the door lock control unit.
1. Remove the driver's door panel. Refer to page 20-3 of the service manual.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share two ground
points.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the car. Refer to the Power Distribution section to get a more detailed picture of
how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on.
Page 1423
Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test Light Or DVOM
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure
voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes OFF, or the DVOM
voltage drops to ZERO, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter
(DVOM), place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other
end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low
reading or no reading (ZERO), means good continuity.
The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control Canister, located near the right front strut tower, is a
device for storing fuel vapor. It contains activated charcoal that absorbs and stores the vapor.
OPERATION
Upon receiving a signal from the Programmed Fuel Injection Electronic Control Module (PGM-FI
ECM) the EVAP Purge Control solenoid Valve applies vacuum to the EVAP Purge Control
Diaphragm Valve and canister purging is accomplished by drawing fresh air through the canister
and into a port on the throttle body.
Page 5320
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
6. Reinstall the hinge pin removed in step 4. Position the pin so it sticks out approximately 2 mm
above the lid.
7. Reposition the other hinge pin by using a small screwdriver to push the pin outward. Position the
pin so it sticks out approximately 2 mm above the lid.
Page 5300
Wires
The broken line shown perpendicular to both wires means both terminals are in connector C134.
Locations
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire crayons
^ Awl or probe
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of
the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have
narrowed down the problem area.
2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit
is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit
components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of
circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit
schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. It the shared circuits work,
the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Unit
Circuit Schematics
Page 5037
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 4466
CD Changer Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
CD Player Troubleshooting (All except Passport)
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a Digital Volt
Ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem.
1. Place the Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
Insert the bolt into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
25. Loosen the adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. 26.
Install the timing balancer belt. 27. Turn the crankshaft pulley about one turn, then tighten the
adjusting nut to the specified torque.
NOTE: Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any extra
pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
Page 1561
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Page 2364
Fuel Injector Resistor: Description and Operation
PURPOSE/OPERATION
The Fuel Injector Resistor lowers the current supplied to the injectors to prevent damage to the
injector coils. This also allows a faster response time of the injectors.
Page 4355
Wires
Wire insulation can be one color, or one color with another color stripe (The second color is the
stripe.)
Wires
This circuit continues on another image. (The arrow shows direction of current flow) To follow the
RED/BLK wire in this example, you would turn to the next image(s) and look for the "Z" arrow.
Wires
This means the branch of the wire connects to another circuit. The arrow points to the name of the
circuit branch where the wire continues.
Wires
A broken line means this part of the circuit is not shown; refer to the circuit listed for the complete
schematic.
Wires
Where separate wires join, only the splice is shown; for details on the additional wiring, refer to the
circuits listed.
Wires
Wire choices for options or different models are labeled and shown with a "choice" bracket.
Specifications
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Specifications
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR (MAP)
13. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure the transmission shifts properly.
Disclaimer
Page 1862
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made
in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test
for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.
4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper
tools and safe procedures.
5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make
sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION:
^ Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
^ Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure
multiple terminal connectors are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number:
08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it clicks into place.
CAUTION:
^ Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
^ Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or Digital Volt/Ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to
the fuse terminal on
Page 1945
INSPECTION
2. Disconnect the two pin connector at the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. Measure Voltage between
the YELLOW/BLACK wire and chassis ground.
Voltage should read battery voltage. (If not, repair YELLOW/BLACK wire between the IAC Valve
and the PGM-FI main relay).
3. Turn ignition off. Reconnect the two pin connector at the IAC Valve. Install Test Harness at the
main wire harness only, not the Programmed Fuel
4. Turn ignition on. Momentarily connect A9 terminal to A26 terminal several times. The IAC Valve
should click. If not, inspect/repair
BLACK/BLUE wire between the IAC Valve and the PGM-FI ECM terminal A9. If wire is OK then
replace the IAC Valve.
Page 521
INSPECTION
1. Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the three pin connector at the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS). Turn ignition switch on.
2. Measure voltage between YELLOW/WHITE (+) terminal and GREEN/WHITE (-) terminal.
Voltage should read approx 5.0 volts. If not, measure
^ If 5.0 volts is not measured, Turn ignition switch off, install test harness between PGM-FI ECM
and harness connector, turn ignition on. measure voltage between terminal D20 (+) and D22 (-), if
5.0 volts is measured, inspect for open in YELLOW/WHITE wire between D20 and TPS connector.
If 5.0 volts is not measured, substitute known good PGM-FI ECM and retest.
3. Turn ignition switch off. Reconnect the three pin connector at the TPS. Install the test harness
between the PGM-FI ECM and the harness
4. Measure voltage between terminal D11 (+) and terminal D22 (-). Voltage should read approx.
0.5 volts at closed throttle position and approx. 4.5
volts at full throttle position with a smooth transition in between. If not, replace TPS with known
good part and retest.