Sawhorse Plan
Sawhorse Plan
Sawhorse Plan
The sawhorses I already had were great sawhorses built from I made my sawhorses from two 35 x 70mm x 2.4m (3 x 1 1/2” x 8’)
Matthias Wandels plans, the only problem was, they were in the way pine studs as I have plenty of it in stock, but any type of stud will be
inside the workshop, so I ended up leaving them outside and even- fine. Each sawhorse needs 3 carriage bolts, glue and a handful of
tually they rotted away. I’ve been trying to figure out a way to make screws.
a foldable sawhorse while still staying fairly compact and I realised a
three legged sawhorse would be an easy way to achieve that. My first The 3 legs were cut out of the first piece of pine stud and if your
steps were to mock up a three legged horse by just clamping pieces timber is exactly 2.4m like mine then you will do it with nothing to
of studding timber together. I’ve always been quite skeptical of three spare. You could always shorten each leg by a few millimeters if
legged sawhorses but I was surprised how stable it was. I decided the needed to get them out of one piece.
project was worth continuing with. Obviously a standard four legged
sawhorse would be more stable but in 95% of cases the three legged The foot of the legs and the leg stops need to be cut at an angle, the
sawhorse would be more than sufficient. two for the pair of legs are cut at 5° and the single leg at 10°.
These plans are fairly basic. There should be enough info to help Cut all the pieces before you start to assemble. All of the pieces are
you build your own sawhorses. I recommend watching my YouTube joined with glue and screws.
video as there is a certain order to the assembly - you can find it here
- or at my Youtube channel ‘paskmakes’. In the video I build one with The sawhorse needs to be assembled in two halves - each of the pair
basic tools (handsaw) but it would be easier and quicker using power of legs bolted to one of the top rails with a carriage bolt and the head
tools - dropsaw, bandsaw or jigsaw etc. of the bolt recessed into the back of the rail - then both halves joined
together with spacers in-between. The length of bolts will depend
on the thickness of timber you use.
800.0mm 806.0mm
5
. Degrees
Legs from one 2400mm length of pine stud. Cut
this way to get the three legs from one piece.
800.0mm
806.0mm
Rounderover the top of all 930mm
930.0mm
10 degrees
70.0mm
Spacer block
by the thickness
after they have been fitted.
This depends on the thickness
of the timberof the x4
timberthen
you use - mine
worked out at 35 x 140mm.
cut down after they
have been fitted.
The actual measure-
ment depends on the
11 thickness of the timber
you use - mine worked
out at
35 x 140mm.
Assemble each half of the sawhorse
then join both halves together with
spacer blocks in-between.
This is how I measured the hole for the bolt in the single leg. I had
to do this because I had already joined both halves of the horse
together.
In hindsight and a better way would be to clamp the single leg in
place and drill through the leg (there would be a mark in the cor-
65.0mm
rect position from where a compass was used to mark the
roundover for the top of the legs) and one side of the top rail
before the two halves of the sawhorse are joined together - then
the hole can be drilled all the way through and into the other rail
after the two halves are joined.
100.0mm
37.0mm
When using two sawhorses together - turn them around opposite ways to give
more stability.