DCS P/N 1812

Diesel Conversion Specialists…we’re here to help you put a Cummins engine in your Ford truck!
© 2012 Diesel Conversion Specialists
 Contents
PRE-CONVERSION ............................................................................................................................................................................... 4
A/C SYSTEM EVACUATION ................................................................................................................................................................ 4
MEASURE DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS ........................................................................................................................................................... 4
6.0 ENGINE REMOVAL ........................................................................................................................................................................ 4
ENGINE BAY PREPARATION ............................................................................................................................................................ 4
EXHAUST AND HEATER HOSES ............................................................................................................................................................... 4
THROTTLE CABLE .................................................................................................................................................................................. 4
CUMMINS ENGINE PREPARATION ................................................................................................................................................. 5
ADAPTER PLATE ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
EXHAUST MANIFOLD .............................................................................................................................................................................. 5
TURBO MOUNTING ................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
CRUISE CONTROL CABLE ................................................................................................................................................................... 7
ENGINE MOUNT INSTALLATION .............................................................................................................................................................. 7
ENGINE INSTALLATION .................................................................................................................................................................... 7
ENGINE MOUNTING ............................................................................................................................................................................... 7
TRANSMISSION..................................................................................................................................................................................... 8
FLUID TYPE ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 8
TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER MOUNTING ............................................................................................................................................ 8
DRIVE LINES .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 9
FUEL SYSTEM ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 9
AIR CONDITIONING .............................................................................................................................................................................. 11
RADIATOR AND FAN ............................................................................................................................................................................ 11
WIRING ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 12
SHUT DOWN SOLENOID ........................................................................................................................................................................ 14
STARTER SOLENOID ............................................................................................................................................................................. 15
AIR CONDITIONING .............................................................................................................................................................................. 15
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ......................................................................................................................................................................... 16
WARM AIR HEATER ............................................................................................................................................................................. 16
FORD ALTERNATOR ............................................................................................................................................................................. 16
DODGE ALTERNATOR .......................................................................................................................................................................... 17
TACH WIRING ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 18
TACH SENSOR MOUNTING ............................................................................................................................................................. 19
TACH RING INSTALLATION ........................................................................................................................................................... 19
INTERCOOLER AND AIR FILTER .................................................................................................................................................. 20
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CONTROLLER ........................................................................................................................... 21
THROTTLE POSTION SENSOR OPTIONS .................................................................................................................................................. 21
Modified Ford 05-07 6.0 gas pedal ................................................................................................................................................ 21
WIRING ................................................................................................................................................................................................ 22
The TRS sensor signal .................................................................................................................................................................... 23
Trans fluid temp gauge ................................................................................................................................................................... 23
Tow/haul switch .............................................................................................................................................................................. 23
The main power to the TCU ........................................................................................................................................................... 23
Throttle position sensor (required) ................................................................................................................................................ 24
GETTING STARTED WITH YOUR LAPTOP COMPUTER ............................................................................................................................. 25
 The information contained in this manual is intended for the private use of those who have
purchased our products. Reproducing this document by any means is prohibited.

This project will most likely take 80-120 or more hours to complete, depending on your
experience, your particular conversion, and how much of a perfectionist you are. If you have a hard
time understanding these instructions, or need some extra help on something we don’t address that is
related to the conversion- please call or email us and we’ll be happy to answer your questions.
Technical support concerning questions on engine problems or issues that are not conversion related is
offered via emailed troubleshooting information or on a $1.00 per minute basis only.

The Ford Super Duty to Cummins conversion is about the easiest conversion going right now as
this truck is very receptive to the Cummins engine. The Super Duty has plenty of room in the engine
bay for the Cummins engine. When you’re done, everyone will say that it looks like the Cummins
came in the truck.

We have added a check box next to very important sections. Checking this can be helpful to remind you if you
forget to do a step.

3
 Pre-Conversion

A/C system evacuation

For ease of installation we suggest that you remove the following components in this order: Bumper, grille, headlight
panel (it is not necessary to remove the headlights from the panel first ), a/c condenser (plug all a/c lines immediately after
disassembly), power steering cooler, transmission cooler, transmission cooler lines at radiator (6.0 lines use a special tool,
if you don’t have one you can take them out with the big “nut”- but be careful not to let the cooler fall inside the radiator
tank. If it does make sure the rubber washers are still between the cooler and the tank). Next take out the upper radiator
support, intercooler, and then the radiator.

Measure driveshaft lengths

It’s a good idea to measure your driveshaft lengths before you disconnect them from the transmission or transfer case.
Make a mark on either side of a slip joint and measure between the marks. These measurements will be a helpful
reference point. After you take them out you can bottom the slip out and measure again, then you know how much slip
you have left when figuring where you will mount the engine. If you do not have a slip joint in the rear driveshaft your
decision will already be made for you.

6.0 engine removal

This is a good time to remove the plastic channel that the wiring harness runs through as this often gets broken
while installing the engine. You can tie the harness up to one of the windshield wiper posts. When removing the Ford
engine, save the Ford motor mount nuts from below the front crossmember as they can be handy to reuse when mounting
the Cummins. You will need to round up 12mm X 1.75 bolts to go with them. It is not necessary to remove the cab on
6.0’s, although some mechanics that have equipment to lift the cab prefer to do it that way. We have always done it
without even jacking the cab up and it doesn’t seem bad at all to us. You will have to remove the oil filter adapter if it has
one, and you may have to remove the turbo but the crossover tubes can stay on. Take apart the two engine mount pieces-
or cut the studs flush under the crossmember before removing the engine. Once the engine is loose from the transmission,
you will need to allow the front of the engine to roll down while lifting the engine just enough for the oil pan to slide over
the crossmember.

Engine Bay Preparation

Once the 6.0 is out, you should spend a little time prepping a few things before you drop the Cummins engine in.
If you take your time here you will not regret it later as it will save you some hard work.

Exhaust and heater hoses

Remove the 6.0 downpipe and the exhaust heat shield under the cab if your truck has one. Cut it back at least under the
cab, especially if you are going to run 4” exhaust. Remove the heater hose/pipe that is bolted to the firewall. Cut the
plastic band clamp off the quick connect adapter on this heater hose and remove the stock hose. You can now attach the
hose you will use with a hose clamp and put the adapter back on the heater core tube.

Throttle Cable
The best throttle cable set up to use for a Dodge Cummins is the one that came on the Cummins engine. These cables
have a square snap firewall connector, much like the cruise control cable. Your truck has a round hole in the firewall (it
may be hiding behind the firewall insulation pad). Before you install your engine, file this hole square to accept the
Dodge cable. You may use your electronic throttle pedal with our bracket kit, or you can use a throttle pedal out of a
Super Duty that had a gas engine. Which one you use will depend on a few things mentioned later.

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 Cummins Engine Preparation
(Do the following before engine installation)

If your Cummins came out of a commercial or industrial application you will have to get more creative with the
throttle linkage. Some pumps accept the Dodge throttle linkage, but others do not have threaded inserts in the pump. If
your pump has large threaded holes we can supply you with the inserts, but
some industrial pumps don’t even have the threads in the holes.
(The three holes needed for the Dodge throttle linkage are shown in the yellow circles at left.)

The Dodge TPS sensor bolts

to this bracket or one like it
here.

* Refer to the transmission controller section before you decide what pedal you will use as there are other options if your
truck has adjustable pedals or your Cummins does not have a throttle position sensor.

Adapter plate

Before you bolt on your adapter plate you may need to do some
grinding on the engine block as shown in the picture. The starter spacer will
clear the block when you have done enough. When bolting the adapter plate to
the engine, make sure the Cummins dowel sleeves are still in the block.
Sometimes they come out with the original adapter. If you do not have the
original adapter plate bolts, use 12mm x 1.75 x 40mm. We do not provide
these since most guys have them already.

Check the flexplate to torque converter fit before bolting the flexplate
to the engine. It is common that the torque converter pilot needs dressing with
fine grit sandpaper, especially if it is painted. The flexplate bolts directly to the Cummins crankshaft (torque the bolts to
95 ft/lbs), and the Ford torque converter then bolts directly to our flexplate just like any other automatic transmission.

After you get the flexplate bolted to the engine, install the starter on the adapter plate. Make sure the bolts that
hold the starter motor together do not protrude past the machined mounting surface. It is also a very good idea to hook a
battery up and run the starter a few times to make sure it works properly, before you install the engine.

Exhaust manifold
We use (and sell) an exhaust manifold that provides a different turbo location than the stock Dodge application.
This moves the turbo away from your Ford a/c box giving you about 6” or so clearance. As you can imagine, the best
time to decide which one you are going to use is before you install your engine.

5
Turbo mounting
When using the exhaust manifold we provide, you will have to re-orient
your turbo on the new manifold so that your oil drain hole is pointed down. A good
way to get the turbo apart is to leave it on the engine and give it a few sharp taps
with a small sledge and 2x4 on the back of the compressor housing- towards the
front of the engine, with the bolts loose but not completely out. If your bolts are
stubborn, heating the exhaust housing right around the bolt bosses helps the bolts
come loose better if they are too rust locked. Be careful not to break them, if you
do you’ll have to drill them out. Clean the exhaust housing up good for re-
assembly.
You will need to rotate the aluminum outlet housing too, so that it is
pointing straight up. The outlet housing should have a v-banded elbow on it as well
that has the intercooler hose connection.

If running the HX35w (the stock turbo on the 94-02 engines) the wastegate actuator will hit the block after you re-
orient the housings. You have two options concerning the wastegate actuator: either take the original wastegate actuator
off and block the waste gate shut - or get a different wastegate actuator from us that mounts differently and clears the
engine block. Install a boost gauge so you can avoid allowing rare boost pressures over 40 psi if you block the wastegate
shut.
To fix the waste gate shut, you can wrap wire or a hose clamp around one of the bolts that held the actuator on,
but the best way to fix it shut is by drilling and tapping a hole in the v- band clamp adapter for a bolt to thread tight
against the waste gate valve, as directed in the
diagram at left. It is highly recommended to run
a pyrometer if you have made performance
upgrades to your engine. Watching exhaust gas
temperatures and keeping them in a safe range
will help get the most life out of your engine.
Before you re-install your turbo is the best time
to drill a hole in the manifold for a pyrometer
probe if you are going to install a probe pre-
turbo for a pyrometer gauge. You will have to
drill the hole for the probe in the front 4
cylinder’s port, since right above the turbo
mounting pad there is a divider in the manifold
outlet port.

For the oil pressure line into the top of the turbo, just flip the stock line around so that the end with the 90 deg.
elbow is connecting to the top of the oil filter housing.

Now is also a good time to get your turbo oil drain tube installed. You
can cut the middle out of your stock drain tube and heat it up, twist it, and bend
it in a sharper angle, using rubber hose in between it and the elbow in the
block. A cleaner option is to use the flexible tube we offer. It works well with
your existing block elbow and the hose. To install these, twist the elbow in the
block so that it is pointing toward the engine mount. Connect the flexible drain
tube to the elbow with the original hose as shown.

6
 Cruise control cable
Another item that is easier to do at this time is to make provisions on the engine for your
cruise control cable. If you are using your Ford fuel pedal, follow the instructions included
with the pedal bracket kit- do not mount the cable on the Cummins throttle linkage. This
method is only used when the Dodge TPS is used.

Trim the small raised “tab” off of the part of the servo cable that will go into the throttle
cable bracket with a sharp knife to make it square. The Dodge throttle cable brackets
require a spacer between the cruise cable and the bracket. By gently pulling on the cable, removing the slack, you can
determine what length your spacer will need to be. Tack weld a piece of 3/4” (1/16” wall) square tubing on the bracket
with the cable going through it. Cutting the spacer at a slight angle helps the cable to stay in the tubing and bend around
the shut down solenoid on p-pumps. Bending two opposing sides of the tubing to the inside slightly with channel locks
will allow the “locks” to work on the cable, or you can use a set screw on the tubing.

Engine mount installation

There is only one “set of 4” motor mounting holes mid-engine on the 12 valve block on both the driver and the
passenger side. The mounts will be marked to indicate mounting position. It is easier to put both the engine half of the
mounts and the frame half of the mounts on the engine together and then put it in the truck. Leave the bolt through the
isolator slightly loose, to allow for some adjustment- but remember to tighten it up later. You will notice that the holes in
the isolators are much larger than the ½” bolt hole in the frame mount. This allows for some adjustment and with a large
flat washer they work just fine.

Engine Installation
When actually dropping the Cummins engine into the Ford truck, the front of the engine needs to slant down
some in order for the back of the oil pan to slide over the crossmember. If you are going to move your trans back; do this
after the trans is bolted to the engine, and then slide the whole thing back. Once you have the engine in, the transmission
bolted up, and the engine and trans in the right position, the perches can be loosely bolted to the crossmember. Don’t get
too excited just yet though, there are still some things to do before you bolt the frame halves down. Leave your hoist
connected to the engine until directed to un-hook it.

Engine Mounting

Our mounts will set your engine right where it needs to be left-and-right, up-and-down, and front-to-back. There are three
options available on the engine position front-to-back.

The stock position (in the front of the slot) allows you to leave the transmission in its stock location. In this position,
electric fans will need to be used since this position leaves the least room between the engine and the radiator. *[NOTE:
Custom electric fans that are “made for your truck” are too thick, some customers have used two Flexalite 410, 412, or
420’s (all the same fans, different controls). You may need to loosen the transmission mount nuts and also the driveshaft
carrier mounting bolts in order to adjust the transmission location to make everything fit.

The middle position (in the middle of the slot) usually allows you enough room for the engine driven fan while at the
same time allowing stock drive shaft length with our custom carrier bearing mount. If your truck has not had previous
driveshaft modifications or needs extreme suspension travel, you may be able to use this option. The custom carrier
bearing mount allows the rear drive shaft to move back in the slip joint about an inch, just enough to get a Dodge
Cummins fan on or off of the fan support with the radiator installed. YOU will need to determine if your driveshaft still
has enough slip for suspension travel. If the driveshaft collapses enough that shaft goes through the plug in the yoke and
hits your u-joint it will damage your transmission. Usually, this much slip movement in the stock driveshaft is not needed
in most trucks.

7
The rearmost position (in the back of the slot) allows you to have maximum fan to radiator clearance. This is the
recommended position if you decide to have your drive shafts rebuilt- however do not put the engine too far back. The
ideal fan to radiator clearance is just enough to remove the fan without having to move the radiator.

*Both the middle and rearmost position require you to move your transmission crossmember back because you will run
out of slot in the transmission crossmember. Automatic trucks already have another set of holes to do this.

Transmission

Make sure that the converter is still engaged in the pump (all the way back in the trans.) and be sure that the
converter studs are entering the holes in the flexplate before you draw up the bellhousing to the engine, never force things
together with the bolts! If you tighten the bellhousing bolts without ensuring proper alignment, it is possible to be
completely together with the end of the studs jammed against the flexplate. Tighten the nuts on the studs a little at a time
opposite each other so the nuts draw the converter straight into the center of the flexplate. Not properly aligning the
torque converter can ruin your transmission!

Dipstick- we have found the dipstick tube and indicator out of a 99 7.3 diesel to work well in these trucks. Leave
the short portion that inserts into the transmission case intact and insert the 7.3 version tube into it. The short part can be
twisted with a pair of channel locks if needed.

Fluid Type

The 5R110 transmission requires a special fluid- Mercon SP, or LV. It is ok to add LV to transmissions that have SP
already, but currently according to Ford, it is not ok to add SP to units that have LV. It’s been documented in the past it
was ok to interchange either way, but now it is not. Be sure not to use Mercon V for sure. Fluids that do not have the SP
or LV specification can cause shift quality issues.

Remote transmission filter- It is necessary to drop the remote transmission filter a few inches to clear the a/c
compressor. This can be done by welding a small piece of flat bar with the two mounting holes to the bottom of the
bracket.

Transmission crossmember mounting

Automatic trucks already have crossmember bolt holes in the frame behind the holes that are currently used for
the stock location. Whether you run in the middle position or in the rearmost position you will need to use these extra
holes to move the crossmember back to accommodate these engine positions.

Bolt the engine mounts to the crossmember

With the engine still hanging from your hoist, but lightly sitting on the crossmember, check the engine for
straightness up and down before you finally bolt it solid to the crossmember. For bolts to lock the cradles to the front
crossmember, we like to use 12 x 1.75 x 50 mm bolts. This lets you reuse the nice motor mount nuts that were originally
securing the Ford mounts to the crossmember. You may have to pry the engine towards the passenger side with the frame
side of the mounts loosely in the holes to get it in the level side to side position, especially if your rigging does not lift the
engine straight. It is very helpful to make a bracket that bolts to the front driver’s side of the head so that you can lift the
front of the engine in a balanced way. It is also a good time to check the fit of your radiator expansion tank with the
intake air horn at this time. You should have a 1/8” or so of clearance between the tank and the horn. If you don’t have
that much clearance, the engine may not be straight, and needs to tilt down on the driver’s side. The engine will sink
some due to isolator crush and you will get more, so don’t worry about the 1/8” not being much. You can also elongate
the holes and move the tank away from the air horn quite a bit if you need more clearance.

8
 Once you have the engine straight and the crossmember bolts in with the nuts started, with most of the weight off
the frame half of the mounts, you can tighten the bolts that fasten the frame half of the mounts to the crossmember. This
procedure will give the maximum clearance between the engine half gussets and the frame half of the mount. After the
crossmember bolts are tight, let the weight of the engine fully rest on the mounts and un-hook your hoist.

Remote transmission filter- It is necessary to drop the remote transmission filter a few inches to clear the a/c
compressor. This can be done by welding a small piece of flat bar with the two mounting holes to the bottom of the
bracket.

Drive Lines
If you have chosen to use the stock, engine driven radiator fan from a Cummins, you may be able to use our
custom carrier bearing mount and not need to have the drive shafts rebuilt. This mount allows you to move the
transmission back just enough to get the room needed for the engine driven fan by collapsing the rear drive shaft slip
about 1-1 ½”. You will need to check your drive shaft compression needs and the amount of slip you have available
before you order the custom carrier bearing mount. To check, install your rear driveshaft to the transmission or transfer
case. Hold the carrier bearing up near the current mount with some wire. After this is done you can see how much slip
you have left in relation to the yoke on your rear differential. If you don’t have enough slip to assemble the driveshaft
into the yoke you for sure don’t have enough slip. If you can get it together, measure your lines on either side of your slip
again to get an idea how much slip you have left. Most stock trucks don’t need much compression travel in the slip
because the drive shaft is fairly level. Some trucks that got a lift kit, but no driveline modifications after, may have plenty
of slip left. If you are still concerned, have the rear drive line shortened between the carrier bearing (if equipped with one)
and the transmission. If you have a 4x4, the front drive line may need to be lengthened, although it might stretch out just
fine. IF you are going to have driveshaft work done anyway, or need the extra fan clearance, go ahead and use the rear
part of the slot in the frame half of the mounts.

Fuel System

The stock fuel lines are sufficient for supply and the stock Ford pump works well on the 94-98 12 valve
Cummins. Using it has some advantages, such as the fuel heater and water in fuel light will still work. If you do use the
Ford pump, take the factory mechanical lift pump off the engine and plumb the fuel directly into the fuel filter or the
injector pump. If you opt to use the Cummins mechanical lift pump, bypass the Ford pump (take it off and install hose
between the hard lines).

Do not use the Ford pump and the Cummins mechanical together- you’ll probably end up with a leaky Cummins
pump.

9
 The power steering is normally plumbed the following way,
especially when you are using the Dodge power steering
pump behind the vacuum pump. You will not need the
vacuum pump, although you’ll have to leave it on to drive
the power steering pump. Take the Ford power steering
fluid tank out of the truck.

This is your pressure line. Connect the other end of this

line to the pressure port on the Dodge pump using the
compression fitting and Dodge line section.

This is the hydroboost return. Follow it down the inner

fender and disconnect it from the Ford tank. Connect it
to one of the return ports on the Dodge power steering
pump tank, shown below. (If you only have one hose barb
return port on the pump, you will need to use a tee to get the
two return hoses plumbed into the single port on the Dodge
pump).

This is the steering fluid cooler return. Connect this

hose to the other return barb on the pump or to the tee.

This is the steering box return, going to the cooler. You

can cut the steel line section out if you like and re-
plumb cleaner with new hose.

These are the hose barb return ports. Some pumps

only have one. It does not matter which one you
connect your return hoses to.

This port is for your pressure line. This is the line

from the passenger side of your hydroboost, as shown
in the picture at top right.

Compression coupling

This is a bolt hole, if

yours is missing like this
one they are a metric
10x1.25x25mm bolt.
Dodge pressure line section

Cut the hydroboost pressure line on the STEEL portion at the PUMP end and use the 3/8 compression fitting to
connect to the steel tube in the Dodge fitting that connects to the pressure port in the pump.
10
Air Conditioning
Use the Dodge A/C pump. When installing an older
Cummins (89-90ish) into the Super Duty we recommend using the 94 This is the tube
or newer Dodge A/C pump and bracket. The newer pump is shorter you need
and the lines are attached differently than on the older models. You
will just need to have your Ford A/C lines crimped together with the
A/C manifold that we send (this one is quite handy as the lines come
off to the side instead of straight back). The ‘99 Super Duty pipe that
is bolted onto the drier (pictured at the right) works better for the
conversion than the newer style. You will keep all the Ford a/c
wiring intact. Use your Ford high pressure switch- this threads off of
your small Ford a/c line, by the compressor, and threads onto the new
a/c manifold we sell. We also have available the Dodge style a/c
compressor connector that plugs into the Dodge compressor wires if
you cannot find a used one.

Radiator and Fan

Radiator fan: As mentioned before, we recommend using the engine driven fan on the Cummins. If you choose to use
electric fans you can leave the transmission in the stock location. Again, our engine mounts accommodate either position.
We do not fully recommend using electric fans, especially if you live in warmer climates or do heavy pulling, as we have
heard back from more than a few customers who did and had cooling problems.

Radiator and hoses: Use the stock Ford radiator. If you bought our hose kit, install it as shown below. Some trimming
of the hoses and ribs on the fan shroud is required. Hopefully by now you have read on our website and seen the pictures
showing the newer style thermostat housing that has the hose connection that points toward the driver’s side of the truck,
and the newer style lower hose connection that points toward the passenger side of the truck. If you have older style stuff
on your 89-90ish Cummins we have the parts you need.

The picture at left shows how the hose and pipe need to be arranged. The
engine pictured is a common rail, but hoses are very similar. Of course you will
need to trim the hose that connects to the engine a good bit. It is necessary to
grind the ribs on the shroud to give the pipe enough room in front of the a/c
compressor.

*The fill tank on 6.0l trucks needs to be plumbed into the lower radiator hose
port (or the heater hose return line). Using other ports causes filling problems
and overheating problems are the
result! If your 12 valve had an
automatic trans behind it in the
Dodge it will have the dual barb fitting shown with the arrow. Use the one
pointing towards the passenger side for your fill tank. The barb pointing
straight up is for your heater hose return. Run hose or tubing under the front
of the oil pan or under the fan shroud and up the inside of the frame rail to
this fitting. If your engine does not have one of these dual barbs on it you
should be able to make one like it with common pipe fittings found at your
local hardware store.

11
 Wiring

Save your 6.0 engine harness! You will be saving portions of it to plug
back into your Ford sensors. You will be dealing with the middle
connector at the PCM, a rectangular inline connector (wires on both sides),
and a round inline connector (see left picture). When you unplug these, all the
engine wiring is disconnected from the truck. Start by working with the
middle PCM connector, shown below. It is possible to pry out the red
portion of the connector shown in the picture at left, and by gently prying
the small black plastic lever lock in the connector shell, the pin may be
removed from the connector shell. After you are all done with your
wiring, your connector will look as it does in the picture below. Silicone
6.0 Engine harness, truck side
all the cavities closed to prevent water from entering the connector cavity
on the PCM.
* A little tip on wire colors: The first color is the main color, the second color is the stripe. (i.e. yellow/black is a yellow wire with a
black stripe.) We recommend soldering all connections. Shrink tube connectors that have solder inside are available which you can
use with a heat gun. Directly soldering with a soldering iron combined with separate shrink tubes or good tape also works very well.

The yellow wire in pin#4 is the charge monitor,

this wire goes to another connectors- leave it
alone.

Crank wires, blue in pin# 30 and grey in pin# 41

Cam wires, red in pin# 31 and orange in pin# 43

Temp sensor signal wire, yellow/white in pin# 32

Grey/red wire in pin# 25 is the temp sensor return

The black wire in pin# 42 is the drain wire for crank

and cam wires, this wire is connected to the bare wire
Leave this that is wrapped with the crank and cam wires in the
wire alone foil wrap. LEAVE the foil wrap and drain wire all
in pin# 1- the way down to the sensor. If it is removed it can
Don’t cause a “jumpy” tach.
remove it.

12
Below is the small round connector, shown top and bottom side. There are no pin numbers on this
connector. Save all these wires intact and the connectors that the wires are attached to on the other
end- do not remove or cut these wires from this connector. They are long enough to reach the
Cummins compressor area.

The descriptions below are just in case you get too happy with your wire cutters- or if your a/c doesn’t
work you can trouble shoot the electrical.
White/yellow wire is for your voltmeter if equipped, goes
to pin #1 on the middle PCM connector

Black/yellow wire goes to pin # 2 at high pressure switch

Early years this is tan /light green, newer trucks is purple.

Goes to pin #3 on the high pressure switch.

Yellow/black: 03 only; for the Ford fan clutch, not needed

and may be used for a key on power if desired. 04 trucks
do not have this wire.

Top view

Yellow wire- it goes to the middle PCM connector, pin # 4

Light green/red- Charge light driver- not needed or able to

use it when using a Dodge alternator. BUT leave it in if
you are using the Ford Alternator

Red/yellow- Goes to pin # 1 at the high pressure switch

connector.

Tan/light green- Goes to pin #4 at the high pressure switch

connector.

Bottom view

13
 Pin numbers are visible on
the back side.

Pin #9, key on

ignition wire.

Rectangular connector

The black/purple wire in pin # 1, the green/light green wire in pin # 12, the red/yellow wire in
pin # 8, and the white/black in pin # 6 may be removed from the connector- or you can use these wires
to get new circuits (wires with new functions) through this connector so that your engine harness can still be
easily removed. Pry out the red lock in the connector shell, and pry the lock lever away from the pin to remove the
wire from the connector shell. This is in the opposite side of the connector as pictured above right.

The solid red wire in pin # 10 is good for key on power for your external voltage regulator if you are using a
Dodge alternator, and/or for your cruise control servo. If you use the solid red wire for the voltage regulator, make sure
you do not use it for the transmission controller too. This will cause some serious malfunctions with the controller.

The grey/white and solid black wire is for your air conditioning clutch, so leave those two in there, along with the
brown/orange wire that is for your oil pressure sensor. If your truck has a pink/orange wire in pin # 3 leave it in there, we
don’t know what it does!

Shut down solenoid

Connect the white/yellow (03) or purple/orange (04) wire in the connector
pictured above (pin # 9) to the red wire at the three wire connector at the shut
down solenoid (pictured left). You can also use this same wire to power a trans
controller or etc. You will find that this Ford wire is 14 gauge on the truck
side of the plug and 16 gauge on the engine side. The smaller 16 gauge is
plenty for the shut down solenoid. We have the other side of this connector
available if you need one.

14
Shut down solenoid continued
The white wire on the shut down solenoid must be connected to start only power. This start only power is what actually
lifts the solenoid plunger and the key on power holds it up. The easiest place to get the start only power is at the starter, as
shown below, or use a relay triggered by the yellow/blue start power wire coming from your starter relay (start position in
the ignition switch). Do not directly connect the yellow/blue start power wire to the solenoid wire. This will avoid
blowing fuses in your truck. Install a 30 amp inline fuse in the start only power wire.

This post is for the large cable

from the battery

This is where the original This is the post to

yellow/blue wire from the connect to for your
starter relay goes. start only power

Starter solenoid
Use the original starter solenoid wire, so simply reconnect it as it was on the 6.0 starter. This wire is
yellow with a light blue stripe and comes out on the passenger inner fender.

TIP: Under the dash, a clean customer accessory (key on power wire) can be found in the harness,
under and behind the dash, to the passenger side of the Data Link Connector. It is white with a blue
stripe and will have a piece of tape on the end.

Air conditioning

All of your a/c control wiring will remain intact except the compressor clutch connector. Cut
the Ford connector off of the Ford harness and use a used Dodge connector. We have the one
pictured at right available new if you cannot find one. The older style pictured on the left is not
available new. The grey/white Ford wire will need to
connect to the black/white wire on the compressor side, Or
to the wire in the same position as the orange wire in the
picture at right. Don’t switch them or you will blow out the
diode in the short harness on the compressor. Install your
original Ford high pressure switch to the port on the Dodge a/c manifold and plug in
your wiring to that. You may have to make all these a/c wires longer to go to the new
location on the Cummins engine, but usually if you plan your routing well by going
under the front of the oil pan they will reach without doing so.

Oil Pressure Switch

The brown/orange wire in the 6.0 harness will need to be made longer to reach over to the top of the oil filter
adapter. Using the oil pressure sensor adapter out of our bushing kit, you can install the stock Ford oil pressure switch
right above the Cummins oil filter. There should be a 1/8” pipe plug on the top of the oil filter housing that you can take
out and install the Ford sensor. If you would rather, the Dodge sensor can be removed right behind the power steering
pump and the sensor may be installed there as an alternative location as well.
15
Temperature Sensor
The yellow/white and grey/red wires shown in the middle PCM connector picture can be lengthened to
connect to the stock Ford temp sensor. The sensor is found on the front of the 6.0 engine, by the thermostat
housing. The oil temp sensor looks identical to the coolant temp, but it is not needed. With our temperature sensor
adapter from our bushing kit, install the Ford temperature sensor in the thermostat bypass hose beside the upper water
neck. This uses the ½ to 3/8 inch bushing. Leave the sensor slightly loose to allow the air to bleed as you fill the cooling
system. Another place to install the sensor is in the place of the stock Dodge sensor, on the driver’s side rear of the head.
It will require another pipe bushing though as it is much bigger.

Speedometer
The speed sensor in these trucks reads off of the rear differential and does not go through the PCM so no
modifications are needed.

Check Engine Light

The check engine light is controlled by a multi-plexed signal that is sent on the SCP
bus network. This network also controls other lights, and is even used to drive your
tachometer. For this reason, there is no single wire you can cut to turn off the check engine
light, nor is there a bulb you can take out. The bulb is a small LED that is soldered into the
printed circuit board behind the face of the instrument cluster. The best way to deal with
this light is to insert a thin feeler gauge (.002 works good) or shim stock between the bulb
and the cluster face as shown at right. Use a screw driver to separate the face from the
white portion (some trucks have the light in the lower left corner), insert your feeler gauge
to cover the light and press it back together. The glue bonds back fine. The wrench and tow/haul light (04 versions only)
can also be covered with the same feeler gauge.

Warm Air Heater

Warm Air Heater-12 valve: The air intake

heater grid is located in the block immediately
on top of the intake manifold. There will be
two terminals sticking out of this block. If
your Ford was a diesel, you have two options:
A) Use a single push button or spring
toggle switch in the cab controlling two starter
type solenoids like the diagram at right, with
power to the heater leads. This is the most
reliable and effective way.
B) You can use the stock glow plug /
air heater relays (solenoids) and computer
controlled timing. If you choose this option
you must leave the injector driver module in
the truck. Leave all the wiring intact that
control the relays (the small wires). Simply
wire the large wires on the relays to the
batteries and the Cummins heaters.

Ford Alternator
If you are using the stock 6.0 Ford alternator the wiring for the alternator may remain intact. The only thing you
may want to do is clean the wiring up a bit.

16
Dodge Alternator
It is possible to use the Dodge alternator that is already on the Cummins engine. It is not internally regulated so
you will need to hook it up to a regulator according to the diagram below. DO NOT use any of the small Ford alternator
wires for the regulator, as this will cause the regulator to malfunction. Note: The regulator itself must be grounded.
The charge indicator light in your dash will not work with the Dodge alternator. Use a voltmeter gauge if your truck does
not have one already to monitor charging system.

- + This wire, the main charging

BATTERY lead, needs to be connected to
the positive battery post, or the
remote starter solenoid (if
equipped) This wire should be 6
gauge or bigger.
Voltage Regulator

Case of the regulator must be

I grounded or bolted to metal that
is grounded.
F

Blue wire “y” s or

splices onto key
on power

12 volt key on
power

If you happen to have an alternator that has a plastic back on it and a socket for a two wire connector instead of
the two studs, hopefully you have the Dodge wire connector that plugs in. Usually these wires are green and blue also.
Connect the regulator wires to the same color of alternator connector wires.

17
 Tach wiring
These trucks have what is called a smart dash, and everything works best if you get the tach
working. The PCM needs both the cam and the crank signal to make the tach signal. In order to use
only one sensor, you will need to splice the red cam sensor wire to the blue crank sensor wire (the crank
wires are the longer of the two). Make your splices in different places so that they are not right next to each
other, and soldering the connections is best. You don’t need to connect the bare cam wire to the bare
crank wire because it is already connected by the PCM plug.

Connect the orange cam wire to the

grey crank wire and then to the other Connect the red cam wire to the
tach sensor wires. It does not matter blue crank wire, and then to one
which one of the tach wires you use. of the tach sensor wires.

18
 Tach Sensor Mounting

You may have a stock tach base you can use, it will just need a hole drilled
and tapped in it to attach our mount. The stock Dodge tach base is located at 11:00
to the harmonic balancer. To revise the stock Dodge tach base do the following:
Remove the existing Dodge sensor. Rotate the existing Dodge tach base 180 deg. (in
other words…turn it upside down). You should see a groove that is cut in the base
for clearance for the Dodge sensor…this groove should still be facing you after you
rotated the base. You may notice that your base has a half moon notch in it, (the
ones we sell for sure do) the half moon notch needs to point down. Now that you
can see how the base should be positioned, you can drill and tap [6mmx 1.0 or ¼”-
20] for the bolt that will hold our mount secure to the base. Our mount will fit into
the grove which will guide it as you slide it to adjust the gap later. The stock Dodge tach base will need to be spaced out
from the front cover with four 8mm flat washers behind each post to position the sensor directly over the tach ring.
Use the 8mm x 1.25 socket head (aka allen head) bolts we provide in the kit to bolt the base back on the engine. Once the
base is installed, and the mount is connected loosely to the base, you can insert the sensor tightly into the mount- after you
take off the rubber o-ring on the sensor. Make sure the metal “eye” on the sensor is centered over the tach ring teeth.
Then, you can set your gap. The gap for the sensor is best at about .018-.020” (about twice a business card’s thickness)
away from the balancer or tach ring.

Tach Ring Installation

Take your harmonic damper (aka balancer) off and inspect it for swollen rubber or chunks out of the rubber.
There is also a line from the outer ring and the hub (through the rubber ring) from the factory that should not be 1/16” off.
Make sure the place where the tach ring mates to the balancer is clean and flat. Rust, or paint runs will cause the tach ring
to wobble. With the balancer off, place the tach ring on the balancer and look between the ring and the face of the
balancer. If the rubber in the balancer is swollen enough to make contact with the tach ring, or you have chunks of rubber
missing, your balancer needs to be replaced. Install the tach ring on the front of the balancer to the crankshaft using the
allen bolts provided. DO NOT use the stock bolts, they are too short. You will need a 10mm hex bit socket, ½” drive, to
torque the bolts to 85 ft/lbs.

19
 Intercooler and air filter
You should use the stock Ford intercooler, but wash it out well with clean, hot water at least- or have it
professionally cleaned. It’s a good idea to run your engine for a short time with a temporary filter on the air horn so you
can use the turbo to blow it out too, or use a large shop-vac with a clean filter. For intercooler tubes you can modify Ford
and Dodge tubes, or you can make use of your local exhaust shop and have them bend the driver’s side. Use a stiff piece
of wire for a jig, and have them bend a 3” tube according to your wire. It is necessary to have a small bead welded around
the outside of the ends of the new intercooler tubes to keep the boot connection from blowing apart under high boost
pressure. For the passenger side tube, a couple 3” U-bends can be cut and welded together. Make sure your intercooler,
tubes, and hoses are deburred and clean before installing them.

Leave the batteries in the stock location and place the air filter right
between the fan shroud and passenger side battery.

The 1571/1943 air kit may be used with 12 valves, although the
passenger side intercooler tube is a bit of a challenge.

DCS part # 1571

With our 90 degree turbo outlet
elbow, the intercooler tube can be
made with a couple 90 degree 3” pre-bends welded together.

The driver side pipe is quite simple as shown at right

(93 and older Cummins pictured)

20
 Automatic Transmission Controller
Your PCS transmission controller has been pre-programmed by Fordcummins.com according to the information
you submitted. We work hard to make your calibration satisfactory; however since we cannot program it in the vehicle,
tuning the transmission will be necessary. A laptop computer is required to troubleshoot, make adjustments or receive
edited calibrations from FordCummins for the PCS transmission controller for the 5R110.

Throttle postion sensor options

You must have a throttle position sensor for any controller to work properly. There
are several options available. If your Cummins has a sensor on it already, it works the best.
Your engine may have one if the Dodge pickup it was in had an automatic transmission
originally. We usually have the tps and brackets in stock if you want to put one on your
engine. The cheapest option if you do not have one on the engine to use the 6.0 pedal as
shown on the next page. This is not the easiest option, but it does work. Finally, the third
option is to get the cable operated tps that PCS makes for $100.00

Dodge TPS

Modified Ford 05-07 6.0 gas pedal

If you don’t want to buy a Dodge tps and brackets for your engine, you can modify your pedal to pull a cable with
our pedal bracket kit. Just leave your wire connector plugged in to the pedal. Included in the kit is a bracket to mount the
cruise control servo under the dash and have the cable hold and pull on the pedal, instead of having it hold or pull the
throttle on the engine directly. This keeps your throttle position accurate while the cruise control is activated.

21
PCS auto trans controller for 5R110 in a Fordcummins
These instructions are intended to supplement the PCS instructions for a Cummins conversion in a ’03-’07 Ford
that had a 6.0 L originally. Read completely through these instructions before doing any wiring! This will give you a
general understanding of the wiring and will help you to plan your connections and routing. Please also read the PCS
installation instructions as well as they give a general overview of installation and operation.

Make sure you read the last page before you drive the truck at all! We are
not responsible for transmission damage because you didn’t read our
instructions. This has happened before, so don’t let it happen to you! 

Your transmission controller (blue computer box), also called the TCU, has been pre-programmed by Diesel
Conversion Specialists according to the information you submitted. We work hard to make your calibration satisfactory
on our end, however since we cannot program it in the vehicle you will need or want to make changes. A laptop computer
is required to troubleshoot, make adjustments or receive edited calibrations from DCS. A datalog (recorded information
sent via e-mail) of the transmission shifting is required for us to provide adjusted calibrations. Expect to send us about 10-
15 or more datalogs before the transmission is shifting satisfactory. These services are included in your purchase of the
transmission controller. Extra calibrations or tire/gear changes may cost extra. When you call for calibration tuning
assistance, having your laptop in your truck and connected (online) to the TCU, can be helpful.

Tuning the 5r110 is complex, so using our expertise is very helpful. Be aware that certain changes, especially
with the clutch to clutch tuning, may damage your transmission, so use caution when making adjustments yourself. We
are not responsible for transmission failure due to poor calibrations, so it may be worth it to try to take a few days off
work and work with us to tune your transmission.

If your computer does not have a male serial port connection, you will need a USB to serial port adapter. PCS
recommends you buy the one they sell and we have them available. For XP computers only, we also recommend the
Belkin brand. Do not try other brands without checking with us first, as some do not work well. Make sure the adapter
you buy is compatible with your computer software.

Wiring

The TCU harness for your transmission will replace most of your stock harness. If your truck is a four-wheel
drive, or has electric shift 4x4, you will need to leave the wires for these intact in your truck. All the wires with the old
connectors that are replaced with the new harness can be cut out of your truck. The wires and plugs you must keep are:
The electric 4x4 shifter motor, and the 4x4 light indicator. Remove the plastic loom from the stock harness and cut loose
the wires going to the Ford PCM connector that is closest to the front of the truck, except for the one or two wires going
to the other rectangular inline plug. Leave enough wire on the connector to connect wires back to it. We recommend
putting the TCU under the dash somewhere inside the truck. Plan this out before you start wiring. A good place to get the
harness through the firewall is through the hole where the clutch master cylinder would be if your truck had a manual
transmission. This hole can be found behind the insulation inside the cab to the left of the brake pedal support.

Wires referred to as unterminated are the wires in the TCU harness that are coiled up and are not connected to
anything. You will not need all these wires, as most of them are for optional features.

* We have spliced the following wires into the TCU harness for you and relocated the TPS, tow/haul, and main
power wires in the harness so that they can pass through the firewall in the harness loom. The TRS and TFT wires should
be labeled. Please refer to the bottom of page 4 for more wiring identification information. You will need to connect these
wires to other wires in your factory wiring harness as described below. If you sent us your complete transmission
harness, we may have added in a 4 pin connector that you will need to connect together. This connector takes care of
the TRS and Trans fluid temp gauge wiring for you.

22
We have added and moved the following wires in the TCU harness for you. They will now be in the engine compartment
with the TCU in the cab. An at a glance summary of the wire colors and/or labels are as follows:

TRS signal- orange/blue ---------- to PCM #25

TRS ground- brown -------to PCM # 22
TFT signal- yellow/lt.blue -------------to PCM # 26
TFT ground- blue -------------to PCM #30

Main power 12 v – SOLID Red

Throttle Position Sensor signal – yellow/black
Throttle Position Sensor return- black/white
5 volt supply- Red/White- DO NOT connect this wire to 12 volts!
03 tow-haul indicator light –violet/white- not used in 05-07 trucks
Cancel Overdrive switch- gray/green

The TRS sensor signal

This is needed to energize your starter relay and reverse lamp relay. Find the wire labeled To PCM # 25 that
breaks out of the TCU harness. This is the TRS signal wire. Connect this wire to the wire in the Ford PCM plug that is
closest to the front of the truck in pin # 25 (this is the same connector you have saved from your stock trans harness). The
wire you are looking for should be light blue/yellow.
Find the wire labeled to PCM #22 , this is the signal ground. Connect this wire to the black/white wire in the
Ford PCM connector at # 22.

Trans fluid temp gauge

Find the wire labeled To PCM # 26. This is the TFT signal wire. Connect this wire to the orange/black wire in pin
# 26 at the same Ford PCM connector as above. Find the wire labeled To PCM #30. This wire is the TFT return. Connect
this to the orange/white wire in # 30 at the Ford PCM (same plug as the org/blk wire above). The TCU uses trans fluid
temperature to adjust shift calibrations. If the TCU “thinks” the trans is cold when it is hot it will shift differently, so this
must be wired up for proper shifting.

Tow/haul switch

Find the tow/haul wire in the Ford PCM connector closest to the firewall of the truck in pin # 36, it is tan/white.
Cut this wire away from the Ford PCM and connect the harness side of this wire to the grey/green TCU wire that is
unterminated. The violet/white wire labeled 03 tow/haul is not used in your application.

On 05 and newer trucks you will have to abandon the light in the dash since this light is controlled by the SCP
network. You will just have to put a piece of tape over the light along with the check engine light. You can wire in an
aftermarket LED light to the pink/light green TCU wire that is in the loop of unterminated wires closest to the TCU if you
wish to indicate when the Tow/haul feature is on or off. This wire will have 12 volts when the tow/haul button is in
overdrive cancel mode (for 04 and newer trucks only). You can cut the violet/white wire short and tape the end up - as
mentioned above this is actually the same circuit as the pink/light green in the cab.

The main power to the TCU

This must be wired to a circuit that has power in either start or run. This solid red wire is in the group of
unterminated wires that should be in the engine compartment. The best 12 volt start/run wire can be found in the small
rectangular inline connector, one of the engine harness connectors. This connector is in the same harness as your middle
Ford PCM connector. This connector has 12 pins in it. The wire in pin #9, (a white/yellow wire in ‘03’s) (purple/orange
in ’04-‘05) is your wire. It’s cleaner if you splice into it on the truck side of this connector, it changes color to red/light
green on the truck side of the connector in ’04 and newer trucks.
23
 If you had your engine harness rebuilt by us you will find a wire already spliced on this circuit on the engine side
of the connector. Do not use this same circuit to supply key on power to your external voltage regulator (if applicable).
Instead, use the solid red wire that is in the same connector at pin # 10. Having the key on feed for the voltage regulator
on the same wire as the TCU will cause the TCU to malfunction. The main ground for the TCU will be found in the roll
of unterminated wires that is meant to be inside the cab, with the TCU. This wire should be labeled.

Throttle position sensor (required)

Dodge TPS: If you have the wiring connector, the pin locations are marked “ABC”. If you do not have a
connector, we can sell you one. Connect the red/white TCU wire to the Cummins tps at pin “C”, the yellow/black TCU
wire to Pin “B”, and the black/white TCU wire to Pin “A”. As you are looking at the tps mounted to the engine, pin “C”
is the wire on the top, or if you were looking at the sensor with the connection pointing towards you it would be on the
right. The wire in Pin “A” would be farthest to the left.

Option B- If you do not have a tps on your Cummins, it is also possible to use your factory Ford tps pedal by
welding the gas truck pedal portion you need to your original pedal for the cable, or bolting an arm to the pedal if it cannot
be welded. If you use this pedal, the TCU tps wires can be attached to the Ford wires at the PCM connector that is closest
to the cab. Find the wire in pin # 25, it is yellow/white- connect your yellow/white TCU wire to this wire. Connect your
black/white TCU wire to the light blue/red wire in pin # 20. You will not use the red/white TCU wire with this option.

*Feel free to call us if you experience any problems or difficulty in wiring.

**If you are using auxiliary transmissions or overdrives, you must get the speed signal off of the rear axle.

Optional items: These optional functions are left to you to program as you wish.

Calibration B- is not available for the 5R110 at this time. We can program automatic downshifting and engine
braking into your calibration. Once this calibration is loaded however, the automatic downshifting will always be in
operation. You must then load a “normal” calibration with your laptop for normal driving.

We strongly recommend that you jack up the rear axle of your truck and with it resting on jack stands, run the
truck in drive and check that the trans shifts smoothly. Make sure the front wheels are blocked and the truck isn’t pointed
at your garage. It is helpful if you have a laptop computer loaded with the PCS software disk, this is included with your
trans controller, load it according to PCS’s instructions. After it is loaded with the key on, engine off; open up the PCS
software. Select autoretrieve from the three options given you when online. Now press “Ctrl” and “M” on your
keyboard. This brings up the monitor screen. With this screen you can see valuable live information such as tps function,
trans fluid temperature, battery voltage, and the current gear the trans is in.

Before driving the truck , check the tps function, as this varies between vehicles. It is very
important to calibrate the throttle position sensor! Perform the following procedures before driving the truck, and if you
need help call and let us know. We can even send you an invitation to get on your computer and do it for you if you need
us to- but please read the following instructions first.

24
Getting started with your laptop computer

If you do not have the PCS software program you can download it at the end of the page on the following link:
http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/transcontrol.php Download the 2.9.0 version.

Once you have the software loaded into your computer, connect the black USB cable to your computer.

With the ignition key on, open up the PCS program on your computer. You should be Online (connected to the
transmission controller or TCU) at this point. If you are not online, you have a communication problem with your
computer and will need to resolve that before proceeding. You will have three options when you get Online. Choose
“Retrieve Calibration from TCU” the lowest box of the three options.

After the calibration file has loaded into to the program, check your TPS function first by clicking on the monitor button
in the top row of menu options.

You can also use control+M to access the monitor screen.

25
TPS adjustments: IT IS IMPORTANT TO CHECK THIS BEFORE MAKING OTHER ADJUSTMENTS. If this adjustment is off it
will affect everything!

To the left on the bottom of the monitor screen you will see the TPS gauge. Check to see if it is at Zero when you are not
pressing on the gas pedal and 100% when at full throttle.

To calibrate the throttle position sensor, do the following:

Look to the left middle of the lower monitor screen for the A/D input column.

The number next to the #1 is the live TPS voltage. Record the voltage for zero throttle and 100% throttle on a sheet of
paper. Add .02 to the voltage value for the zero throttle, and subtract .02 from the voltage for the 100%. This will keep
the voltage at these extremes from “bouncing”.

26
Next, In the menu selection on the left, click on Transmission Setup, then Analog inputs, then AD1, then double-click on
Function. You will see a box titled Analog Input #1 as circled in red in the following image.

The top box is the zero throttle value. Delete whatever you have in this box and type in the voltage value you recorded
from A/D Inputs #1 at zero throttle after adding .02. Press enter and this will send you to the next box down. (If you do
not press enter, the values you typed in will not be saved when you exit.) The second box is the 100% throttle value.
Delete the existing value and enter the 100% throttle voltage you recorded after subtracting .02 from it. Press enter.
Leave the WOT voltage set at zero, this keeps the WOT mode disabled. WOT mode does not work well and it is better
calibrated in the shift tables, so don’t worry your WOT shifts can be adjusted just fine.

Sending/Saving Calibrations: If you are sending us your first datalog, or have made your own changes to the calibration
we sent you, please send us the calibration file that is currently in your TCU. To do this get in the online mode with your
laptop computer and save the calibration file just as you would any other file by selecting “File”/ Save calibration file as/.
Name the file and save it where you can find it, like in your documents. Now you can send it to us as an attachment on
an e-mail. Saving a calibration file is also helpful if you would like two or more calibrations for different tasks you do with
your truck.

Downloading new calibrations:

To download a new calibration file from an e-mail into the transmission controller, save the calibration from my email in
your computer where you can find it. If you are using a web based email program (like gmail, Hotmail, yahoo, etc) you
will need to open the save options. This is usually opened in a dialog box on the bottom of your screen after you click on
the “Download” link next to the attached calibration in your email. Click on the inverted black triangle directly right of
“Save” and you will open the save options. Select “Save as”, then you can select where you want to save the new
calibration file. (see below picture)

27
 After you are in the truck, connected and online, the program will open up with three options, choose the middle box
"Open Existing Calibration".

Browse to find the calibration you saved from my e-mail. After you have found it double left click on it to open it in the
PCS program. Check to make sure you have indeed opened it by looking at the very top of your screen on the right. If
you already have a calibration loaded, the new calibration will not open. The file name of the new file you just opened
should be there. If it is not, then you did not successfully open the file.

Now in the menu on the left or top side of your screen find “communications”.

After this is selected, select “Send Calibration File to TCU”. It will then say “A file is open and not programmed.
Do you want to program now?” Click yes. Downloading a saved file in your computer of course is similar to the above.

28
Datalogs:
It is necessary that you send us a datalog so that we can fine tune the calibration. To start with you will have to be in
online mode. If you are not in online mode, open up the PCS program on your computer with your engine running.
After your computer connects it should give you a three option box. Select the “Retrieve Calibration from TCU” option.
Now find “Datalog” on the top or on the left of your screen. After you click on this, click on “Start/Stop Datalogging”
which will bring up the Datalog menu.

The default save location is difficult to find, so you should create a folder on your desktop or in our documents to save
your datalogs and calibrations in. This can be done by right-clicking on the desktop and selecting the “New” sub menu
and selecting “Folder”. Once the folder is created on the desktop it is named “New Folder”. You can rename the folder
by right-clicking on the folder icon and selecting “Rename”. In the following picture, the folder has been named
Datalogs and is circled in red.

29
Once you have the folder created on your desktop, in the TCU software, click on the “Specify New Default Location”
button which brings up the menu box for selection the folder location. Many computers that use a logon will have the
desktop under the user file. In the following example, the file path is C:\Users\Dan Clark\Desktop\Datalogs.

(The screenshot in the example above was taken with the system NOT online. When you are online the background will
be blue and the red “Not Connected” box will not appear. You must be ONLINE to record datalogs)

Leave the Datalogging Rate at 25 Hz. Now when you click on “Start Logging” you will be prompted to name the file
which you can name whatever makes sense to you (Ex: Log 1, or Trip to Town). When you click on “Save” the computer
will start recording.

If your transmission shifts especially rough, only one rough shift is necessary on the datalog, so stay out of that
throttle position for the rest of the drive if possible. If your transmission shifts reasonably well, drive the truck as you
would normally do, recording 5 or 6 groups of shifts from first to fifth gear. A 5 to 10 minute log creates a reasonable
size file and gives the transmission time to warm up. Send this datalog file as an attachment to
[email protected].

After all this is correct, you can run the truck on the stands. Make sure that your truck is charging (at 14.5 or 14.7
volts), voltages less 12 volts can effect shifting.

Give special attention to the 3-4 shift, as this tends to vary between all the 5R110 transmissions. You may notice
a skip or a jerk in between this shift, this can be adjusted out in the clutch to clutch tuning.

Make sure your transmission is full of fluid after starting it. After adding fluid you will have to wait for the fluid
to drain in the dipstick tube, as any fluid left in the tube will give you an inaccurate reading. If it does not seem to go into
gear, it needs a simple line pressure adjustment. Call us and we can help you adjust it properly. DO NOT TRY TO
DRIVE IT IF IT IS DOING THIS, AND DO NOT REV THE ENGINE UP TO GET IT TO MOVE!

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 Park to R or D adjustments
Generally this calibration is good and does not need to be adjusted, however if the transmission has a lag or a slip from
Park to Reverse or Drive the controller needs a simple line pressure adjustment. (do not rev the engine up trying to get
the truck to move. Reverse and drive
should feel solid and the truck will
typically move with no accelerator
movement)

To make the adjustment, go to

Calibration/Tuning, then Calibration
A, then Load vs. Line Pressure. You
will see some lines in a graph format.
Find the blue line and click on it. If
you have selected the correct line, the
mouse arrow should turn into a blue
crosshair as shown below. If the
crosshair is not blue, you have not
selected the correct line. Using the
arrow keys, move the blue crosshair
to the line farthest to the left which is one increment below the zero line. Push your down arrow to move the line and
your blue crosshair down. (If your crosshair changes color when you press the down arrow, you have not properly
selected the blue line and must re-click on the blue line using your mouse.) This increases line pressure at idle. Try the
Park to Reverse or Drive shift now. Sometimes you may also need to go one click over with your right arrow key on the
blue line and down one or two at this point to make it better to move both the zero value as well as the below zero
values down.

Custom Tuning options

After we get the shift quality tuned well we can lock up the torque converter in a lower gear for better pulling
power if desired. We can also program automatic downshifts with engine braking according to your preference at zero
percent throttle. Base calibrations often have these downshifts at a lower speed as a sort of demo. These shifts can
either be programmed to happen sooner (at a higher MPH), or later (lower MPH) or not at all.

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05and newer trucks require different resistors in the steering wheel switches, this is
required because the ’05 and newer switches have the wrong resistance values for the stepper
motor servo, and ’05 gas engine models changed to a servoless system like the older diesel
trucks.
Models that have the heater and radio controls in the wheel have to either convert back to
standard switches with a complete ’04 6.0l steering wheel, or have different resistors installed
as per the instructions on the next few pages.

Wiring: On the servo wiring connector the pin out is as follows:

The PCM wires are found in one of the three connectors attached to the PCM on the driver’s
side under the hood, behind the battery. The numbers are on the wire side of the connector. All
the PCM wires you need to work with are in the connector closest to the firewall.

Servo pin #’s are listed as “#__” and the PCM numbers are in the sentence.

#1- dash indicator light. This light is triggered by the CAN bus wires. We currently do not
have a way to make this work.

#2 and #8- are not used

#3- vehicle speed sensor input. Splice, or “y” onto the servo wire onto the complete wire in Pin
#35 GY/BK. Do not cut away from the PCM.

#4- Brake pedal position/clutch pedal position. For automatic trans connect to the complete
PCM wire (do not cut away) in Pin # 18 RD/LG.

#5- Speed control switch input. Connect this wire to the cut away PCM wire at pin # 31
LB/BK.

#6- Speed control switch return. Connect this wire to the cut away PCM wire at # 24 BK.

#7- 12 volts (key in run). A good place to get this voltage is at the rectangular 12 pin connector
near the PCM on the fender well. This connector is one of the connectors that disconnects the
engine harness from the truck. Use the red wire in pin # 10. Splice on to this wire on the truck
side of the connector.

#9- Brake pressure switch. This wire “Ys” on to the complete PCM wire at pin # 28 BK/YE.
This wire will have 12v until the brakes are applied.

#10- Ground. Connect to a good body ground.

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Troubleshooting-
If after you have your truck all wired and your cruise does not work check the following with an
ohmmeter at the cruise servo wire connector. Probe pin # 5 and #6 with your other ohmmeter
wire. You should have the following resistance values corresponding with the buttons pressed.
Press the set/accel button and you should have between 612 and 748 ohms. Press the coast
button and you should have between 108 and 132 ohms. Press the resume button and you
should have between 1980 and 2420 ohms.

If you have around 300 ohms, 300, and 510 ohms respectively you have proven you have the
wrong switches and must replace or install new resistors. If you have standard cruise only
switches, you may replace them with buttons out of a ’04 6.0l. If you have deluxe switches
(cruise functions all on the left side of the steering wheel) then you need to replace the resistors
in your switch card.

If your resistance values are right, check to see if you have key on power at # 7, and # 9. Check
to see that the servo is grounded well by testing your horn (it uses the servo ground).

Check your vehicle speed signal at # 3 with a Hz meter to see if you have VSS signal. The hz
frequency should be around zero at zero mph and steadily increase with a increase in mph.

You should not have any power on #4 unless you are pressing on the brake pedal. And as
mentioned before, with the brake and/or clutch pedal in normal position your #4 should be a
ground.

If you cannot find any problems with the above you may have to try another servo.

Here is a list of servo numbers that have been proven to work:

XL3F-9C734-BB, XC3F-9C734-AB, XC3F-9C734-AA, XL3Z-9C735-BA, 2L34-
9C734-AA
This list of engineering numbers is not complete for ’99-03 servos, others with different
numbers made for these years may work fine. Call us if you have one that works and it is not
on the list so we can add it.

These servos have been proven not to work- brand new servos with these numbers do not work!
XC3Z-9C735- CB

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 05-07 Cruise Switch Resistor Replacement
If you would rather, send us your switch and we can replace the resistors for you for $75.00

Switch Removal- Disconnect the batteries and pull the 10 amp fuse in position 26, in the fuse box in the cab. Now
gently pry out the small round caps behind the steering wheel that cover the air bag/horn module screws. These take a
8mm socket to remove. After unplugging the module, cut the tie wrap on the left of the wheel that holds the wire loom
that goes to the cruise switch. This will allow the wire to come out some with the switch. With a small screwdriver,
gently pry out the switch starting from the side closest to the horn and work down to the bottom of the switch, gently
pushing the switch upwards to allow the “barbs” on the switch to come out of the leather on the wheel. Disconnect the
wire and you’re ready to take the switch apart. We can supply you with the correct resistors for $5.00.

Resume- remove and install

1500 ohm resistor “A”

Set /accel- remove and

install 560 ohm resistor “B”

Coast –remove and install

120 ohm resistor “C”
2nd screw is
hidden here

“On” resistors, remove

them

Scratch through the outside circuit

here to break it.

Add telephone wires as shown for

on/off function.

Solder the red wire to the old resistor pad

that is closest to the button.

Break out the wire that you will connect to the dark blue horn wire inside
the steering wheel here. You’ll have to make a little notch in the button
cover to make room for the wire.

Enjoy your Ford Cummins truck!

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