Wood Finishing Basics: Application Techniques & Product Selection
Wood Finishing Basics: Application Techniques & Product Selection
Wood Finishing Basics: Application Techniques & Product Selection
In this guide, author and craftsman, Bruce Johnson, There are a number of items frequently used in wood
pairs application tips and techniques with product finishing projects. This list does not include all the
supplies needed, but what is most commonly used.
recommendations that best enhance the beauty of wood
Always consult the label of the Minwax® products you are
in your home. This booklet will take you through the wood
using to see if special application tools are required.
finishing process including preparation, staining and
topcoating, as well as maintenance of your wood pieces. Rags Stir Sticks
Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned do-it-yourselfer, Brushes Safety Glasses
these ideas will help you achieve beautiful results with ease. Sandpaper Rubber Gloves
Drop Cloths or
Paper Towels Newspapers
DIY expert, Bruce Johnson, has introduced millions to
the world of wood For best results, and for your own safety, always read
finishing, home and follow all label warnings and instructions carefully.
improvement and
Contents
antique restoration.
3-6 Preparing Your Wood Surface
Through his many
• Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
books, magazine • Sanding Sealer
articles and columns, • Do’s & Don’ts
as well as frequent 7-12 Wood Stains
appearances on • Pick the Right Stain For Your Project
national television talk • Staining Popular Woods
shows, Johnson is • Application Tips
recognized as an • Do’s & Don’ts
authority in the do-it-yourself community. 13-18 Clear Protective Finishes
• Pick the Right Clear Protective Finish
• Application Tips
• Do’s & Don’ts
19-21 Wood Repair & Maintenance
• Do’s & Don’ts
1 22 Safety Information 2
Preparing Your Wood Surface Choosing The Right Sandpaper
Sandpaper is produced in various degrees of coarseness
While it has often been said, it can’t be over-emphasized: which is measured by grits.
the better the preparation, the better the project results.
• Sandpaper below #100-grit is only used to quickly remove
You need to start every project knowing one thing for wood or layers of an old finish.
certain - wood is unpredictable. For that reason you • Medium sandpaper (#100-grit and #120-grit) is ideal for
removing shallow scratches, dents and rough edges that
always need to first test any technique, material or
could cause splinters. Either of these two grits can be
product on an inconspicuous spot. You can reduce the
used for a first sanding of most projects.
unpredictable nature of wood in two ways: • A final sanding with #180 or #220-grit sandpaper, will
1. by making sure you have properly prepared the wood remove any scratches left by the medium sandpaper and
for the stain and finish you are about to apply. will eliminate any remaining loose fibers in the wood.
2. by creating the best possible environment to work on
After the final sanding, the wood is ready for the first coat of
your project, as discussed on page 2.
a wood finishing product to be applied.
Preparation Tips Capturing Dust
Inspect Your Project
Dust is the enemy of a smooth finish. Blowing sanding dust
Start your wood finishing project by making a thorough
off your project with an air compressor or brushing it onto
inspection of the wood. Make note of any holes, cracks,
your floor can still result in it ending up in your wet stain
splits or loose joints that need to be repaired. These are
or finish. Instead, use a bristle attachment on a vacuum to
always best done prior to staining and finishing your project.
safely capture it once and for all.
Filling Holes and Cracks
Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
To fill small holes and cracks in the wood, use
What makes wood so beautiful is that every piece is unique.
Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler. Using the tip of a
Because of those differences wood rarely absorbs stain
screwdriver, carefully pack the Stainable Wood Filler
evenly. To reduce the blotchiness and uneven stain
into the hole, mounding it slightly to allow for
absorption use a pre-stain wood conditioner.
shrinkage as it dries.
7 8
Staining Popular Woods • Cherry - Cherry has a subtle grain pattern and small
All woods have two characteristics that play important roles pores which do not absorb as much stain, making it
in determining their final appearance: their natural color difficult to make any significant changes to its color.
and the size of their pores. Unlike paint, both water-based Because of this, most woodworkers prefer to keep
and oil-based stains are absorbed into the wood rather cherry its natural color.
than lying on top of the wood. For that reason, the natural
color of the wood, whether it be the reddish hue of cherry • Mahogany and Rosewood - In most instances,
or the yellow tone of pine, will blend with the color of the additional staining is not necessary. When it is, always
stain you choose. use an oil-based stain, such as Minwax® Wood Finish™
or Minwax® Gel Stain, to insure compatibility with the
In order to accurately predict the final color of your project, natural oils in these woods.
always test any stain you select on an inconspicuous
place on the wood first. Regardless of the type of wood, • Maple - Maple, like cherry, is an extremely dense,
to prevent blotchiness and help absorb stain evenly, it is tight-pored wood that does not absorb stain well,
important to apply Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. even after an application of a pre-stain wood
conditioner. It’s recommended not to stain maple,
In addition to their natural color, each species of wood has
but to maintain its natural color.
unique properties that will also affect the staining results.
Here are a few examples:
• Oak - Always a popular
hardwood, oak
• Alder and Aspen - These two hardwoods are popular
has a strong
in the unfinished furniture industry. However, they absorb
grain pattern and large,
stains unevenly, so don’t forget to use a pre-stain wood
open pores that absorb stain
conditioner before staining.
readily. For that reason, oak is
attractive with nearly any color of stain.
• Ash and Chestnut - These hardwoods share many of the
characteristics of oak and should be treated the same way.
• Pine, Fir and Cedar - All three species absorb stain
unevenly, especially around knots and blemishes. Be
• Birch - Birch is often substituted
sure to use a pre-stain wood conditioner or Minwax®
for maple in furniture and kitchen
PolyShades® to lessen the appearance of blotches.
cabinets because it is inexpensive.
Like hard maple, it does not absorb
• Poplar - Poplar has a grain pattern similar to cherry, but
stain evenly, so don’t forget to use
lacks the same reddish hue. When stained with colors
a pre-stain wood conditioner
containing red dyes and pigments, less expensive
before staining.
poplar can be made to look very much like cherry.
9 10
cling to vertical surfaces without immediately running,
Application Tips giving you more time to apply an even coat of stain.
• Penetrating stains
• Although you may be tempted to stop after staining,
require open pores
remember this: a stain provides color, but not
for adequate
protection. Once the stain has dried, apply a clear
absorption into the
finish to protect both the stain and the wood - and
wood. Applying stain
to make them look even more beautiful.
over a finished
surface, will not Do’s & Don’ts
change the color of
the wood – your cloth will simply wipe off the stain Do...
• Prepare the wood. Always
blocked from the pores by the existing finish.
prepare the wood with a light
• Sand bare or stripped wood lightly to open the pores in sanding and an application of
preparation for staining. Always sand in the direction of pre-stain wood conditioner.
the grain to avoid leaving unsightly scratches.
• Stir the stain. To evenly
• The best way to remove dust is with a vacuum. Tack redistribute any color pigments
rags are not recommended since they may contain which may have settled to the
ingredients that interfere with the stain. Instead, use a bottom, be sure to thoroughly
damp cloth to pick up dust. stir the stain.
• On woods with large, open pores, such as oak, • Apply additional coats. To achieve a darker, richer
mahogany and ash, increase your pressure to work color apply a second coat according to label directions.
the stain into the pores. Rubbing or brushing against
the direction of the grain will help fill deep pores with Don’t...
stain. Apply a liberal amount of stain, giving the wood • Forget to remove the hardware. Leaving hinges,
an ample amount to absorb. handles, knobs or pulls on a piece you are staining
or finishing may also change the color of any metal
• Test and time how long you leave
hardware.
the stain on the wood before
wiping off any unabsorbed liquid. • Leave unabsorbed stain on wood surface. Stains
For consistent color, use careful are formulated to dry in the wood, not on the wood, so
timing. remove all unabsorbed stain, as this will later peel off.
• Always end your staining by • Rush the dry time. Applying a clear protective finish
removing the last of any unabsorbed stain with a dry before the stain has completely dried will activate the
cloth wiped only in the direction of the wood grain. Swirl damp stain, allowing your brush or cloth to pull it out of
marks left by a stain-saturated cloth will become more the pores of the wood.
obvious under a coat of clear finish.
• Use steel wool. It is not as effective as sandpaper.
• When staining vertical surfaces, such as unfinished
The particles on sandpaper actually cut and remove
cabinets or doors which cannot be removed, use
wood fibers, resulting in a smoother, more even surface.
Minwax® Gel Stain. Its thicker consistency enables it to
Also steel wool should never be used with water-based
products, because the steel fibers can cause rust spots.
11 12
Clear Protective Finishes • Water-based oil-modified. Appears cloudy in the can
but dries to a very durable, amber-color film, like an
Without a topcoat to protect it from the elements, wood
oil-based finish. Dries fast and cleans up with water.
can become as dry and lifeless as day-old toast. Coating
wood cabinetry, furniture, or trim with a clear protective Gloss, Semi-Gloss, or Satin?
finish, whether you stain it or not, gives it richness and Choose whichever sheen you like best; there’s no
depth while protecting it from knocks, scrapes, and the difference in durability. Just remember that the glossier
weather. the finish, the more it will show any underlying
imperfections and any future wear and tear.
What is Polyurethane?
It’s a type of super-tough varnish formulated so that its Brush On, Wipe On, or Spray?
microscopic chains of resin molecules will bond tightly Every clear protective finish has its preferred applicator,
with one another as it dries. The result is a finish that’s typically a brush or cloth. Some finishes also come in aerosol
much more resistant to water, solvents, abrasion, and spray cans.
impacts than traditional varnishes.
• Brush-on clear finishes work best on flat surfaces
Oil, Water or Both? where it’s important to build up a durable film.
Consider the different characteristics of each type before • Wipe-on polys are best for contoured surfaces -
you buy. furniture legs and stair balusters - where brushing
• Oil-based. Turns slightly amber, which warms up a might create drips. Wipe-ons form thinner coats than
wood’s color. Forms a hard, durable film in a few coats. brush-ons, so use them when wear isn’t a concern and
Dries more slowly than water-based polyurethanes, so apply multiple coats.
there’s a longer wait between coats. Cleans up with • Spray-on clear finishes come in handy on
mineral spirits. hard-to-reach surfaces, such
as shutter louvers and chair
spindles. Aerosol sprays may
require extra prep time to
If you want wood to
keep its natural color, protect surrounding surfaces
use a water-based poly.
from overspray.
Some polys have oils
that give wood a warm, Inside or Out?
amber tone.
Most polyurethanes are designed for inside use only.
Spar Urethane can be used inside or out. It’s specially
• Water-based. Looks like milk in the can but dries formulated with ingredients that protect wood from UV
crystal clear. Good if you’re trying to preserve a wood’s rays and temperature changes.
natural color. Dries quickly. Usually lower in odor than
oil-based finishes, but still requires good ventilation
during application. Cleans up with soap and water.
13 14
Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish
Picking the Right Clear GOOD FOR: Light-colored woods and stains
Protective Finish where ambering would be undesirable. It goes
on milky but quickly dries crystal clear. Not
Each clear protective finish is unique. Choose the one that
recommended for floors. Available in gloss, semi-
best matches your particular project.
gloss, and satin.
INTERIOR FINISHES APPLY WITH: synthetic-bristle brush or aerosol can
Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane NUMBER OF COATS: 3 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 2
GOOD FOR: Cabinets, floors, furniture and trim,
where abrasion resistance and durability are Minwax® Wipe-On Poly
important. This versatile all-around poly GOOD FOR: Furniture, railings, trim or anywhere
provides good protection on a variety of wood a brush could leave drips. Its thin film offers
surfaces. Available in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin. moderate protection from abrasion. Also useful for
APPLY WITH: natural-bristle brush or aerosol can hiding superficial scratches in previously finished
NUMBER OF COATS: 2-3 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 4 to 6 wood. Available in gloss and satin sheens, and in
oil-based and water-based formulations.
Minwax® High-Build Polyurethane APPLY WITH: lint-free cloth
GOOD FOR: Tabletops and other surfaces NUMBER OF COATS: 3 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 2 to 3
subject to abrasion. Provides maximum
durability with just two coats. Apply very thin Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer
coats to ensure an even finish. Available in GOOD FOR: Cabinets, furniture, interior doors
gloss, semi-gloss, and satin. and accessories. It is a clear, protective finish for
APPLY WITH: natural-bristle brush wood and metal. It requires no sanding between
NUMBER OF COATS: 2 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 4 to 6 coats. Not recommended for floors.
APPLY WITH: high quality natural-bristle brush
Minwax® Water Based Oil-Modified
NUMBER OF COATS: 3 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 2
Polyurethane
GOOD FOR: Floors, doors, cabinets and INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR FINISH
furniture. Combines the durability and Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane
ambering of oil-based finishes with the fast- GOOD FOR: Exterior doors, trim, and
drying time and easy cleanup of a water-based product. furniture. Contains UV absorbers that
Available in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin. protect the finish and the wood from
APPLY WITH: synthetic-bristle brush
the sun’s rays. Specifically formulated
NUMBER OF COATS: 3 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 2
with resins that allows it to flex as the wood surface
expands and contracts with temperature changes. Available
Minwax® Super Fast Drying Polyurethane for Floors
GOOD FOR: Hardwood floors. A durable, in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin, and in oil-based or water-
protective finish for hardwood floors that has based formulas. Not recommended for floors.
a 25% faster recoat time than regular Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane (oil-based)
polyurethanes and does not require sanding APPLY WITH: natural-bristle brush
between coats. Available in gloss, semi-gloss, NUMBER OF COATS: 3 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 4
and satin.
Minwax® Water Based Helmsman® Spar Urethane
APPLY WITH: lambswool applicator or natural-bristle brush
NUMBER OF COATS: 2-3 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 3-4 APPLY WITH: synthetic-bristle brush
NUMBER OF COATS: 4 HOURS BETWEEN COATS: 2
15 16
Application Tips Do’s & Don’ts
When working with any finish… In addition to reading the directions on the can, keep
• Choose the right brush. Use natural-bristle brushes these basics in mind.
for oil-based finishes and synthetic-bristle brushes for
water-based and water-based oil-modified finishes. Do...
Don’t use rollers - they create bubbles. • Stir the finish. Do this before and during
• Pour some finish into a clean container. Working from a application to evenly blend the ingredients that
separate container prevents the dust and other particles control sheen and
picked up by the brush from contaminating the finish in UV resistance.
the can. • Apply thin coats.
• Tap, don’t wipe. After dipping about one-third of the Thick ones take
brush into the finish, gently tap it against the inside of longer to dry and
the container. Scraping the bristles over the edge of a are more likely to
container leaves the brush too dry to apply a coat of the drip or wrinkle.
right thickness. • Sand between
• Always brush or wipe with the grain. It’s the best coats. Using 220-grit paper helps ensure good
way to work the finish into the wood pores and ensure adhesion and smoothes away imperfections.
an even appearance. • Wipe after sanding. Dust interferes with adhesion
• Apply and move on. Too much brushing can leave and leaves unsightly bumps in the finish. Use a
topcoats rough and ragged. cloth dampened with mineral spirits on oil-based
• Don’t smooth with steel wool. When working with finishes; use a water-dampened cloth on water-
water-based finishes steel wool can leave behind tiny based finishes.
bits of steel that you can’t see - until they rust. Use
Don’t...
sandpaper instead.
• Shake the can. Shaking creates bubbles, which
When working with exterior finishes…. leave a rough, pitted surface. It’s okay to shake
• Protect the entire surface. Often wipe-on polys, however.
times the tops and sides of exterior • Thin the finish. Thinning doesn’t improve
surfaces are forgotten. Be sure to adhesion, and you’ll have to apply more coats
protect the entire surface. and use more solvent.
• Give your door a yearly check up. • Use tack cloths. Some contain chemicals that
Because your door is exposed to prevent good adhesion.
the sun’s rays and changes in • Wax the finish. Wax isn’t durable and will interfere
weather, it can take a beating. with any subsequent coats.
Check your exterior door each year • Use an interior finish for an exterior surface.
for signs of wear and tear. Reapply Exterior finishes are specially formulated to block
when necessary. UV rays and to protect the wood from weather
changes.
17 18
Wood Repair & Maintenance Renew and Clean Hardwood Floors
To give worn hardwood floors a new
Certain spaces in the home can be high traffic areas. lease on life, first clean using Minwax®
Floors, furniture, doors and cabinets take a great deal of Hardwood Floor Cleaner. Then follow
abuse. Keeping them as beautiful as they looked when with Minwax® Hardwood Floor Reviver.
they were first finished is now easier than ever! Minwax® Simply squirt it on the floor and spread
has a full line of repair and maintenance products that it out using a painter’s pad or a synthetic
offer easy solutions to restore and maintain the beauty of applicator on a long handle and let it dry.
wood in your home. No sanding, no mess, no fumes. This water-based topcoat
dries in approximately two hours and gives your floor three
Disguise Nicks and Scratches to six months of beautiful protection.
Minwax® Wood Finish™ Stain Markers aren’t just
great for doing furniture touch-ups. Use them to For regular cleaning, try the convenient
repair minor scratches on hardwood floors, stairs, Minwax® Hardwood Floor Care System.
railings, moldings, kitchen cabinet doors and It is an all in one kit that provides you with
drawers. Available in eight Wood Finish™ stain everything you need to keep your floors
colors. looking beautiful: a bottle of Minwax®
Hardwood Floor Cleaner, a special cleaning
Fill Scratches pad and a long-handle pole for easy
Minwax® Blend-Fil® Pencils are colored pencils application.
designed to repair scratches and nail holes in
stained and finished wood. They are available Clean Kitchen Cabinets and Wood Furniture
in a variety of colors to match specific Minwax® Kitchen cabinets seem to be a magnet for cooking oils,
Wood Finish™ stain colors and many other wood grease and food, especially around knobs and hardware.
stains. Over time, these deposits will soften and damage even the
strongest of wood finishes. To protect that from
Fix Nail Holes happening, clean your cabinets on a regular basis
Nail holes left in furniture, wood moldings and with Minwax® Wood Cleaner, available in a
trim are easy to disguise using Minwax® Wood convenient to use trigger-spray bottle.
Putty®. This tinted putty is available in the most Dirt, grime and perspiration on our hands does
popular Minwax® Wood Finish™ stain colors. the same thing to the wooden arms of our chairs
Applied using either the tip of your finger or a screwdriver, as cooking oils do to the knobs on our cabinets. Dusting
it remains pliable and does not require any sanding. products aren’t strong enough to remove this gradual
build-up, so make it a point to clean your wood furniture
Repair Damaged Wood regularly using Minwax® Wood Cleaner.
Minwax® High Performance Wood Filler is a super-
strength wood filler that is ideal for interior and Note: This not for use on waxed, oiled or unfinished wood
exterior repair projects - from small cracks to major or wood finished with shellac.
repairs. It goes on like putty and hardens
into a tough surface. When working with
rotted wood, first remove any loose
material and apply Minwax® Wood Hardener.
19 20
Simple Do’s & Don’ts to Protect
Your Wood
Safety Information
Do... Wood Finishing can be fun and rewarding if you
• Vacuum or sweep hardwood floors regularly to remove follow simple safety guidelines. Always read and follow all
dirt and grit, which will wear down the finish. label directions and precautions for the Minwax® products
• Place rugs both inside and outside exterior doors for you are using.
people to wipe their shoes.
• Clean the outside surfaces of your kitchen cabinets WARNING! If you scrape, sand or remove old paint, you
often, as the grease and oils that accumulate around may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. Contact the
knobs and pulls will eventually soften and damage the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or
wood’s finish.
log on to www.epa.gov/lead.
21 22
Wood finishing is a great way to update the look and
feel of your home. This Application Techniques and
Product Selection booklet features expert tips,
techniques and so much more!
• Learn how to pick the best products for any wood
finishing project.
• Tips on how to repair & maintain wood surfaces.
• Advice from Bruce Johnson on the basics of the
wood finishing process including preparation,
staining and protection.