research

ANTTI AINAMO
Guest Professor, University of Borås Swedish School of
Textiles; Professor, St. Petersburg Polytechnic Univ. Dept. of
Engineering Graphics and Design;
Adjunct Professor, Aalto University. School of ARTS and and
School of Business, Helsinki, Finland

RETHINKING
TEXTILE FASHION:
New Materiality,
Smart Products, and
Upcycling BY ANTTI AINAMO

KEYWORDS:
Upcycling, Smart textile, Smart fashion,
Sustainability, New materialisms

DIO: 10.3384/svid.2000-964X.14253 Swedish Design Research Journal 2 | 14 53

 research

ABSTRACT fashion? How to know which of such approaches is best?

Manufacturing operations in much of textile fashion have With this kind of a background, this paper is intended as
migrated from the developed economies to developing a thought piece on how to make textile fashion a more
countries in search of cost economies. Consideration for sustainable human pursuit than it is now.
the natural environment has been lost in the process due to
lack of clarity what corporation or some other participant ALTERNATIVE APPROACHES TO
in what kind of an economy is most responsible. This paper RADICAL SYSTEM-WIDE CHANGE
is intended as a thought piece on how new materialisms More than one kind of an approach for radical and system-
offers an approach to bring back responsible concern for the wide change and international reorganization of textile
natural environment in textile fashion and, perhaps, beyond. fashion has been proposed in research literature. These
include: (1) “new materialisms” or understandings of what is
INTRODUCTION 1)
textile material and what it ought to be (Coole & Scott 2010;
Resources, skills or wills for environmental protection have Hemmings, 2012; Moor & Mann-Weber & Haberle 2012),
not always readily been found in textile fashion. While the (2) “traditional materialism” or return back to slow fashion
manufacturing of textile fashion may have created many or even to a steady state (O’Connor 2010), (3) “smart”
new jobs in developing economies in the last ten years as a textiles, clothes and parametrically oriented solutions to
result of outsourcing manufacturing of cotton textile and enable and speed up the ways that the radical and system-
clothes from developed economies (Gereffi & Frederick wide change will cascade (Fletcher 2013:25; Hanna 2012;
2010), the net effect of the outsourcing has been detrimental Jonson 2012; Quinn 2010; Tang & Stylos 2006; Allwood
in terms of the loss of ecological balance when it comes to et al. 2006), and (4) “upcycling” or activity to increase the
the natural environment. Manufacturing in the developing symbolic value of long-lived clothes (Ericsson & Brooks
economies often pollutes more than in developed economies. 2014; Boscia 2014). The above four approaches are shown in
Transportation costs are high since consumption of fast a schematic form in Table 1.
fashion is more characteristic of consumption in developed This paper focuses on the first and second of the
economies than it is of consumption in the developing ones above kinds of groupings of propositions; that is, on new
(Allwood et al. 2006, 2008). The migration of manufacturing materialisms and traditional materialism. Intellectually,
has furthermore gone hand in hand with an externalization an interesting exercise is to map out the two kinds of
of who is responsible for environmental protection. With approaches, as well as their starting points, logics and forms
this kind of an emergence of an increasingly ecologically of argumentation for their adoption in textile fashion. On
unsound and irresponsible system, calls for radical system- a more pragmatic note than that, such a mapping exercise
wide change in how textile fashion is manufactured and
distributed internationally have grown (e.g. Niinimäki &
1) The author would like to thank Lisbeth Svengren Holm as the editor of this
Hassi 2011; Chomsky 2011, p. 16; Fry 2009, p. 74). Justified journal’s research articles, as well as Amanda Ericsson, Lotta Jonson, Jonas
questions include: What alternative approaches exist for Larsson, Miikka Lehtonen, Heikki Mattila, Rudrajeet Pal, Clemens Thornquist
and Katrin Tijburg for discussions contributing to his writing of this article.
bringing about the radical and system-wide change in textile This said, any remaining mistakes or shortcomings remain the sole responsibi-
lity of the author.

Table 1. Categorizing approaches for radical system-wide change.

Products as “Upcycling Traditional

permanent solutions second-hand clothes “ materialism

Temporary products New “Smart textiles” and

materialisms “smart fashion”

Deconstruction No deconstruction

54 Swedish Design Research Journal 2 | 14

 research

contributes to capabilities to put each of these approaches Deconstruction

meaningfully in comparison, and in possible contrast, to Deconstruction is one of the most extreme streams of new
the other approaches in Table 1 and to possible still other materialisms. It refuses altogether that manufacturing and
approaches. distribution would involve any stabilized product form
This paper will not only specify to some of the ways that in the first place (Derrida 1978; cf. Cheah 2008, p. 144).
the new materialisms and traditional materialism relate to Deconstruction takes it that to analyze a material “object”
one another in both in theory and in practice. It will also it is most illuminating to analyze in relation to a given
propose how to rethink research and practice within and “outside” that may or may not be material. To take the
beyond textile fashion. Such rethinking includes showing best known example of deconstruction, a text is not only
how smart products and up-cycling are sub-approaches that a material form or object such as a letter or a book. It also
extend from roots in the traditional materialistic approach reflects the times and contexts surrounding when it was
and the new materialistic approach, respectively. Let us thus written and when it is being read (Derrida 1978). This kind
rethink what new materialisms and traditional materialism of a framing represents the text as a twin process of writing
are, as well as what they have to offer for a sustainable and reading, which intertwine into a “text-tile or woven”
future of textile fashion. Finally, let us then add new layers (Cheah 2008, p. 144-6; cf. Derrida 1978).
of significance such as deconstruction, temporary forms of To understand how the material base is not all that
product, smart products, and up-cycling. matters in textile fashion, rethink of how a digital video
game of the fashion world plays out. At its core, it is
THE NEW-MATERIALIST APPROACH just code written by software coder rather than anything
In contrast to traditional materialism that focuses on concrete, tangible or real in any traditional sense. At the
what is settled, fixed and permanent, the new-materialist same time (Farren and Hutchinson 2004):
approach assumes always “an aggregate whose elements
vary according to its connections, its relations of movement “clothing and fashion for people who inhabit ‘virtual’
and rest, the different individuated assemblages it enters” environments, interacting with other people in real
(Deleuze 1992, p. 282; Ahmed 2010, p. 256). The new time… involve extensive, long-term social interaction
materialist kind of aggregation allows also for considering between participants. Unfortunately, the choice of
immaterial artefacts within one Hjelmslevian “flat ‘costume’ for the visual representation of each player,
multiplicities” (Deleuze 1992, p. 9). Eschewing the negativity currently very limited, has become a frustration for
of traditional materialism that assumes a necessary choice [many of these participant-]individuals, and threatens
between to manufacture and pollute, on the one hand, or not to limit the social agency and growth of these
to manufacture and not to pollute, on the other hand, new environments.”
materialism is an openly positive approach. In fact, the only
thing negated is the idea of negativity itself (Deleuze 1994, p. The above snippet of life and of the limits of textile
55; Cheah 2008, p. 151): fashion in virtual worlds is in line with how and why an
increasing amount of philosophers and textile fashion
“It is not the negative which is the motor… Those who researchers underline how any form is but “a diversion of
bear the negative know not what they do: they take the life” (Deleuze & Guattari 1987, p. 499). Even economists
shadow for the reality, they encourage phantoms, they now understand how a textile fashion does not at its heart
uncouple consequences from premises and they give always need to replicate finished forms that are settled.
epiphenomena the value of phenomena and essences… Rather taking inspiration from one of these economists, any
[T]he negative is an illusion, no more than the shadow of form but momentarily suspends a continuous process of
problems.” change (Ingold 2010):

There are at least two mutually complementary sub- “whether as images in the mind or as objects in the
approaches to how positivity is the road to healthy natural world… [a textile] seeks to join with those very forces
environment. These are “deconstruction” and “temporary that bring form into being. Thus the [fashion] line grows
products”. from a point that has been set in motion, as the plant
grows from its seed.”

Swedish Design Research Journal 2 | 14 55

 research

The essential relation in a world of life is thus not SMART TEXTILE FASHION AND UPCYCLING
between materials and form. Rather, the essential relation In sum, in the above deconstructionist and temporary ways,
is between material elements and forces of life (Deleuze new materialism is a framework to nurture ideas on how
and Guattari, 2004, p. 377). These forces exceed the life and to deconstruct and represent on an on-going basis what is
death of any individual material form (Cheah 2008, p. 155). textile fashion, and what ought it to be. At its core, in the
Seen from these kinds of angles, despite being such framework of this paper, “pure” new-materialist textile
an extreme version of new materialisms, deconstruction fashion does not exist in material form but as a series
provides us elements with which to improve upon the health of in-between relations or spaces, which every reader or
of the natural environment in concrete ways, to make participant in a role such as that of a designer, manufacturer,
our textile fashion more sustainable. Other ways to work marketer or consumer will understand differently. At the
towards freeing the natural environment from the current intersection of the relations or spaces, each temporary
states of pollution textile fashion include to manufacture and material product may appear meaningful for participants in
to distribute increasingly temporary forms of product. a way that is worth preserving in a second life of the textile,
woven, or fiber.
Temporary products Even now, at a time when there ought to no longer to
Temporary products offer a different kind of a starting point be pollution, and textile fashion orient toward radical and
of analysis for rethinking than deconstruction. In viewing system-level change for a healthy natural environment, this
textile fashion as a series of temporary products, this sub- kind traditional materialism in textile fashion remains like
approach takes an equally radical and system-wide view a living fossil. Rather than be activists to transform the
of manufactured products that are traditionally considered system in radical and system-wide ways, many traditiona-
stabilized and material as does deconstruction. In temporary materialists are all too satisfied in calling for “negation” and
products, the emphasis in textile fashion is on the relations protest (Marcuse 1991, p. 63) whereby textile fashion:
and spaces in-between material textiles, wovens, and fibers,
rather than on their material form and content. Within this “contains the ‘rationality of negation. In its advanced
context, the ‘relations and spaces’ refers not only what is positions, it is the Great Refusal – the protest against that
in-between one textile, woven or fiber and another, but also which is.”
those in-between one assembly of textile, wowen and fiber
and another across time. Consider, for example, how the The treatment of cotton textile has included using
market for cellular telephony has been reframed as a fashion chemicals to treat the emerging cotton textile material. Just
market by a fashion consultant (Djelic & Ainamo 2005, p. as meanings and structures of words and sentences and other
61): expressions can be tweaked as to what it is that we mean by
what is object and what is outside, what is fixed entity and
“‘in the fashion industry, brands are not imposed on what is forever dynamic, so can one tweak what remains
the consumer; they are found’. This fashion consultant physical material in whole in part, of one kind of material
went on, suggesting that ‘’if you want to build a brand or that of another. Within this context, in the case of a
that stands on solid ground, you will need to use a case approaching the borderline between new materialism
more grassroots type of approach. You need people and traditional materialist thinking, consider the following
with influence in the fashion industry to believe in your example (Kotler 2000, p. 223):
brand and to spread your name by word of mouth. Their
lifestyle will then be copied by other people’ (Kaufmann, “when DuPont developed a new synthetic fiber for
2003).” carpets, it demonstrated to carpet manufacturers that
they could afford to pay DuPont as much as $1.40 per
Within the above kind of deconstruction and rethinking pound for the new fiber and still make their target profit.
of temporary form as a viral process of social diffusion, no DuPont calls the $1.40 the value-in-use price. But pricing
particular textile, item of fashion, just like no organism or the new material at $1.40 per pound would leave the
organization, genuinely ever embodies life. Any of these will carpet manufacturers indifferent. So DuPont set the
be the shell that merely traps and imprisons life, for a while, price lower than $1.40 to induce carpet manufacturers
within a temporary organized form. to adopt the new fiber. In this situation, DuPont used

56 Swedish Design Research Journal 2 | 14

 research

its manufacturing cost only to judge whether there was state whereby each part-member would have a deterministic
enough profit to go ahead with the new product.” designated function with little vision of an integrated
or systemic totality (Cheah 2010, p. 87). Practico-inert
In other words, the challenge has been that even reification and materialization of artefacts would drive
participants who are ecologically aware, still cannot liberate each other in a shifting chase, holding as its “two key
themselves from thinking in traditional materialist ways. features… first, the understanding of nature and history as
Emerging trends in research and practice in new materialisms law-governed processes that can be rationally understood
and in challenging traditional materialism include the instead of immutable metaphysical substances, and, second,
foregoing smart textile fashion and up-cycling, terms already the determination of these processes as processes with
mentioned in conjunction with Table 1. material existence that can be explained through empirical
science” (Cheah 2008, p. 143). Organic, social and existential
Smart textile fashion elements would merge and reinforce each other (Beauvoir
A material or product is considered “smart” when (Porter & 2012, p. 9) so that:
Heppelmann 2014, p. 5):
“… each reacts upon the others and is at the same time
“software replaces some hardware components”, or affected by them”.

“it enables a single physical device to perform at a variety Up-cycling

of levels.” In response to the kind of degeneration that tends to go
with smart textile fashion taken too far, variants of effective
Translated into textile and fashion, materialist fast action under such conditions include down-cycling of
urban fashion and negative conservativeness differs from appreciation for the supposedly new and improved, on
immaterial and positive new-materialist consideration of the one hand, and “up-cycling” of second-class clothes,
ecological concerns (Edwards 2010). It is worth to have on the other hand (Ericsson & Brooks 2014). Rather
parameters in place for optimization (Hanna 2012). than irresponsibly source new materials from the natural
Many examples of this kind of negation remind us environment, up-cycling is a burgeoning sub-culture and
of many varieties of social or linguistic constructionism fashion movement in London, Stockholm, New York, and
and theories of performativity (Cheah 2008, p. 144). They elsewhere. Driven by an environmental concern with fast
represent the kind of activity that has as its in-built feature fashion and long life cycles of natural fiber, fiber is sourced
what Beauvoir (2012) has called “circularity”. Circularity from old clothes and ecologies of the artificial, rather than
in an economy operating with whatever currency becomes from the natural environment. With little burden on the
all the more intense the more materialization happens in health of the natural environment, natural and artificial are
recurring “series”, time after time, in social ensembles, in thus sourced from near the end of their life cycle in thrift
which each human individual is but one passive participant stores and charity shops, and re-cut and re-sewn for second
with others in a “collective”. life (Ericsson and Brooks 2014, pp. 91-92).
It is within this kind recurring cycles that materialization In countries such as the United Kingdom and the United
also in textile fashion becomes “practico-inert”; that is, States, around 15 percent of old clothing is donated for
circularity impinges upon human freedom and alters how recycling. The second-hand clothing system of provision
individuals or groups of any size can act (Sartre 1968, p. includes doorstop collections, textile banks, crafting and
169, and Beauvoir 2012 in Kruks 2010, p. 261). Besides handiwork practices, and local networks of sale. The revenue
negativity, circularity and practico-inertia, a further feature often is directed to fund community projects (Ericsson &
of traditional materialism feature is the ordering of things Brooks 2014), to raise awareness (Albinsson & Perera 2012),
resulting in a near-deterministic process of “futuring” (Fry or both, to contribute to reuse of clothes in a sustainable
2009); that is, restructuring an immediately present but way.
undesired reality with promises of change supposedly soon Despite such steps towards sustainability, demand for
or later. used goods has gone down with the growing availability
If we were to follow the above kinds of negative protest of value retailers’ low-cost fashion (a price category that is
indefinetely, the end result would be to degenerate into a almost without exception manufactured in the developing

Swedish Design Research Journal 2 | 14 57

 research

countries). The market for re-wearing and recycling second- PROPOSITIONS FOR FURTHER RESEARCH,
hand clothes in affluent developed countries is limited, GUIDELINES FOR PRACTICE
especially in comparison with the near endless growth of This paper has inquired into sustainability issues in the
new-clothing consumption (Ericsson & Brooks 2014, p. 92): global textile fashion industry. Resources, skills or wills
for environmental protection have not always readily been
“The vast majority of donated clothing is exported found in this industry. In response to calls for radical system-
clothing is exported overseas and retailed in the wide change in how textile and fashion manufacturing and
developing world, via a trade pattern that is largely distribution are organized internationally, this paper has
unknown among the general public. Across the globe, asked: What alternative approaches exist for bringing about
rich and poor people are intimately linked, as used the radical and system-wide change in textile and fashion?
clothes pass through networks of charitable and How to know which of such approaches is best?
commercial exchange that trade second-hand clothes Across research and practice, over time, we ought to
between continents (Rivoli 2012).” develop techniques to treat natural and artificial fibers in
second-hand clothes so that they will represent material
“Second hand clothing is massively important in sub- equal to new material, at par with de novo natural and
Saharan Africa and difficult to appreciate for readers artificial fibers, or at least nearly so. We perhaps cannot yet
unfamiliar with the context. Countries such as Kenya, even imagine how to do that, but a vision that such is our
Mozambique, Uganda, Senegal and Zambia have major intent matters. When we will be able to repair second-hand
second-hand clothing markets”. fibers or regenerate totally new ones, this is when we will
be able to smoothly migrate or move fibers from second-
Given that natural fiber is both sourced and distributed hand clothes into new textile fashion in the vision of new
at the end of its life cycle in developing countries, it is good materialisms. We will have in place relations and spaces for
design to close to loop. Indeed, there are instances of this a truly sustainable complex of textile fashion and natural
already happening. For example (Ericsson and Brooks 2014, environment.
p. 94):
Now, with the intention to be a thought piece on how
“In the Mozambiquen markets, some tailors do use to make textile fashion a more sustainable human pursuit
a mixture of second-hand clothing together with the than it is now, this paper is ready to extend propositions for
traditional capulanas (printed sarang) to add value and further research and their corollaries for transfer into textile
to produce something different for local consumers. fashion practice:
[As a prime example of this still but new and emerging
is to] use second-hand clothing imports as the basis to Proposition 1. Textile fashion grows from what is already
make desirable new commodities, taking old textiles and in motion, like a plant grows from its seed, but the seed
creating high-value, up-cycled, second-hand dresses… need not be a material one.
both questioning to the way fashion is made on a global
scale, as well as contributing to the local design scene.” Proposition 2. A temporary product may be just as
meaningful and of worth for participants as fiber sourced
In up-cycling, old clothes are used up toward the end from the natural environment.
of their life cycle in the very same countries from where
especially natural fiber for textile fashion is originally Proposition 3. Smart textile fashion can negate textile
sourced (Boscia 2014): fashion’s negative impact on the health of the natural
environment, so that the outcome is positive.
“Upcycling allows these old clothes to have a second
life, rather than amassing in secondhand markets in Proposition 4. Natural and artificial fibers sourced from
developing countries or going into landfills.” second-hand clothes can be treated into a source of fiber
materially at par with de novo natural and artificial
fibers.

58 Swedish Design Research Journal 2 | 14

 research

Translated into practice, there are four guidelines that

REFERENCES
can be drawn from the above four propositions, already Ahmed, S. (2010) Orientations matter. In D. Coole & S. Frost
at this stage. Firstly, textile fashion ought not to consider (eds.) New Materialisms: Onthology, Agency, and Politics.
natural or artificial fiber as the starting point of creativity, Durham: Duke University Press.
manufacturing and distribution, but to focus on the social Albinsson, P. & Perera, B. (2012) Alternative marketplaces
processes of the participants that have key roles to bring in the 21st century: Building community through sharing
textile fashion into being. One of the keys in taking up events, Journal of Consumer Behavior, 11(4): 303-315.
second-hand clothes as a source of raw material for textile Allwood, J.M., Laursen, S.E., Russell, S.N., Malvido de
fashion is to unlearn traditional social norms about what is Rodrigues, C. & Bocken, N.M.P. (2008) An approach
good material for textile fashion. to scenario analysis of the sustainability of an industrial
Secondly, channeling meaningful and valuable software sector applied to clothing and textiles in the UK, Journal of
and other artificial assemblies into new diversions of Cleaner Production, 16:1234-1246.
life sustains meaningfulness and what is of worth for Allwood, C. K., et al. (2006) Well Dressed? The Present
participants, while contributing to the health of natural and Future Sustainability of Clothing and Textiles in the
environment. One Finnish company illustrates how United Kingdom, University of Cambridge. Institute for
upcycling is a process whereby “textile waste” goes through a Manufacturing, Cambridge
“recycling process” that turns the waste into “pure waste” or Beauvoir, Simone de (2012) The Second Sex. New York:
raw material for the “textile industry” (Pure Waste Textiles Random House.
2014). In turn, the textile industry will churn out not only Boscia, T. (2014) Sustainable chic: College designers and
products but also textile waste, so that there is a closed loop. scientists fashion a second life for textile waste, Human
Thirdly, any physical components that can be replaced Ecology, Vol. 42, No. 1, 10.
with software will alleviate textile fashion’s burden on Cheah, P. (2008) Non-dialectical materialism, Diacritics, Vol.
the natural environment. Finally, second-hand clothes are 38, (1-2) 143-157. (Reprinted in D. Coole & S. Frost, eds.,
a plentiful and resource-efficient source of natural (and (2010), New Materialisms: Ontology, Agency, and Politics.
artificial) fibers for textile fashion producers, designers, and Durham: Duke University Press, 70-91.
consumers. It would be great, if we could improve quality Chomsky, N. (2011) Crisis and hope: Theirs and ours, in
with treatment and reproduce quality rather than only to Best, S. Kahn, R, Nocella AJ II & McLaren P (eds.) The
consume until all is total waste. Global Industrial Complex: Systems of Domination, New
York: Lexington Books, 1-24.
Coole, D. &Scott, S. (eds.) (2010) New Materialisms:
Ontology, Agency, and Politics. Duke University Press.
Deleuze, G. (1994) Difference and Repetition. Translated by
P. Patton. New York: Columbia University Press.
Deleuze, G. (1992) Ethnology: Spinoza and Us, in J. Crary
and S. Kwinter (eds.) Incorporations. New York: Zone
Books, 628-633.
Deleuze, G. & Guattari, F. (1988) A Thousand Plateaus:
Capitalism and Schizophrenia. Trans. B. Massumi.
Minneapolis: U of Minnesota Press.
Derrida, J. (1978) Writing and Difference. Chicago:
University of Chicago Press.
Djelic, M-L. & Ainamo, A. (2005) The telecom industry as
cultural industry? The transposition of fashion logics into
the field of mobile telephony, Research in the Sociology of
Organizations, 23, 45-80.
Edwards, J. (2010) The materialism of historical
materialism, in D. Coole & S. Frost (eds.),

Swedish Design Research Journal 2 | 14 59

 research

New Materialisms: Ontology, Agency, and Politics. Durham: O’Connor, K. (2010) How smart is smart? T-shirts, wellness,
Duke University Press: 280-298. and the way people feel about ”medical” textiles,
Ericsson, A. & Brooks, A. (2014) African second-hand Textile – The Journal of Cloth & Culture, 8(1): 50-66.
clothes: Mima-te and the development of sustainable Porter, M.E.& Heppelmann, J.E. (2014) How smart,
fashion, in K. Fletcher & M. Tham (eds.), Routledge connected products are transforming competition,
Handbook of Sustainability and Fashion. London: Harvard Business Review, Nov.
Routledge: 91-99. Rivoli, P. (2009) The Travels of a T-shirt in the Global
Farren, A. & Hutchison, A. (2004) Digital clothes: Active, Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power and
dynamic, and virtual textiles and garments, Textile: The the Politics of World Trade. London: John Wiley.
Journal of Cloth and Culture, 2(3): 290-306. Quinn, B. (2010) Textile Futures: Fashion, Design and
Fletcher, K. (2013) Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Technology, by B. Quinn. Oxford: Berg.
Journeys. London: Routledge Sartre, J.-P. (1968) Search for Method. Translated by H.E.
Fry, T. (2009) Design Futuring: Sustainability, Ethics and Barnes. New York. Vintage Books.
New Practice. New York: Berg. Tang, S. & Stylios, G.K. (2006) An overview of smart
Gereffi, G. & Frederick, S. (2010) The global apparel value technologies for clothing design and engineering,
chain, trade and the crisis: challenges and opportunities International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,
for developing countries, Policy Research Working Paper, 18(1-2):108-128.
Washington D.C.: World Bank.
Hanna, R. (2012) Parametric tools in architecture: A
comparative study, Design Research, 12(1): 39-47.
Hemmings, J. (ed.) (2012) The Textile Reader.
New York: Berg.
Ingold, T. (2010) The textility of making, Cambridge Journal
of Economics, 34 (1): 91-102.
Jonson, L. (2012) Many design challenges in the health care
sector, Design Research, 12(1): 4-8.
Kaufmann, L. (2003) Xelibri: A Siemens Mobile Adventure.
Case 303-074-1 European Case Clearing House.
Kotler, P. (2000) Marketing Management Millenium Edition,
Tenth Edition. Prentice-Hall.
Karft, K. (2004) Textile patterns and their epistemological
functions, Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture,
2(3): 274-289.
Kruks, S. (2010), Simone de Beauvoir: Engaging
discrepant materialism, in D. Coole & S. Frost (eds.), New
Materialisms: Ontology, Agency, and Politics. Durham: Duke
University Press, 258-280.
Moor, T., A. Weber-Mann, A. & Häberle, J. (2012) An
aesthetic approach to the use of textiles in architecture, in J.
Redström, A. Valtonen & H. Wiltse (eds.) DRS 2012 Design’s
Big Debates: Pushing the Boundaries of Design Research,
Umeå: Umeå Institute of Design /Design Research Society.
Marcuse, H. (1991) One-Dimensional Man: Studies in the
Ideology of Advanced Industrial Society. 2d ed. Boston:
Beacon, 1991.
Niinimäki, & Hassi, L. (2011) Emerging design strategies
in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and
clothing, Journal of Cleaner Production, 19(16): 1876-1883.

60 Swedish Design Research Journal 2 | 14