Fabric & Garment Finishing

Sem VI

BFT (AP)

Nift, Mumbai.

What is Finishing?

Any operation (other than preparation and coloring) that improves the appearance and/or
usefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting machine.

Objective of Finishing:

• To cover the defects occurred in fabric in weaving.

• To improve look & life of the fabric. In other words to improve serviceability of fabric.
• To rectify some inherent faults occurring in fabric, not because of spinning or weaving
Procedural faults.
• Problems like developing of static charge in cotton, felting in wool, etc. These are present
naturally.
• Special properties (value addition properties) introduced in material, either as per customer
requirements or for specific fabrics, depending upon its end use. For e.g. Bullet-proof material
etc.

Considerations for Finishing:

Type & cost of fabric

Its intended end use

Cost & availability of chemicals & Equipments

Types of Finishes:

 Textile Finishes are classified in several ways

 Aesthetic Finishes and Functional Finishes

 Based on substances or equipments used:

 Chemical Finishes and Mechanical Finishes

 Customer oriented Classification:

 Temporary, Permanent and Semi Permanent Finish.

Functional Finish:

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Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of the fabric.

For e.g. Flame Resistant

Aesthetic Finish:

Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and /or hand or drape of the fabrics.

For e.g. Calendaring

Mechanical Finishes:

 Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical treatment to a fabric surface to cause a
change in fabric appearance.

 This is also known as dry finish.

E.g. Calendaring, Raising

Chemical Finishes:

 Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding followed by curing and drying.

 These are also called as wet Finishes.

 Examples are :

 Stiff and transparent

 Flame Retardant

 Soil Release

 Crease Resistance

Temporary Finishes:

 A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish.

 Effect does not last beyond two domestic washes.

E.g. Ironing or Simple Calendaring.

Semi permanent Finishes:

 A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10
washes and not afterwards.

E.g. Buckram Finish (Stiffening), Soil Release etc.

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Permanent Finishes:

 If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and remains unaffected through all the
conditions of wear and washing treatments, then the finish is said to be permanent finish.

E.g. Sanforizing,

Anti Felting,

Resin Finish.

Calendering:

• Calendering may be defined as the modification of the surface of a fabric by the action of heat
and pressure.

• The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of
rotation and pressure applied are variable.

• The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to
fabric.

• The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic.

Two-roller calender Three-roller calender Five-roller calender

Chasing calender

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Objects of Calendering:

• To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric.

• To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness

• To reduce the air permeability by closing the threads

• To increase the luster

• To reduce the yarn slippage

• To increase the opacity of the fabric

• Surface patterning by embossing

Types of Calendering:

• Swissing or normal gloss or simple calendering

• Chintz or glazing or friction Calendering

• Cire Calendering

• Embossed Calendering

• Moiré Calendering

• Schrenier Calendering

Swissing or normal gloss:

• A cold calendar produces a smooth flat fabric.

• If the steel bowl of the calendar is heated thus produces lustrous fabric.

• If a 7-bowl multi purpose calendar is used, the result is smooth fabric with surface gloss on both
sides of the fabric.

Chintz or glazing or friction Calendering:

• Gives highly polished surface like Glazed Chintz cotton fabric

• If very highly gloss fabric is required the fabric is preimpregnated with wax emulsion, if the
fabric is pretreated with resin this is a semi-permanent finish.

Cire Calendering:

• 3-bowl Calendering where top bowl rotates much greater than friction Calendering.

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 • The resultant fabric becomes highly lustrous. Fabrics of cotton, rayon, polyester, nylon and
blends may be given cire finish.

• The fabrics are pretreated with wax or resin, to get highly polished effect.

• When synthetics are cire finished, the fabrics become moderately water-repellant due to
flattening or partially fusing of fabric.

Embossed Calendering:

• Produces 3-dimensional design on fabric. Embossing calendar consists of heated hollow metal
roller engraved with the embossing design and soft roller twice the size of engraved roller.
Fabric is drawn between the two rollers and is embossed with the design.

Moiré Calendering:

• Produces wood grain design on the face side of the fabric. There are two ways to achieve this
result.

• Method one:

• Rib fabric (Faille/Taffeta) and balanced plain weave fabric are placed face to face. Both the
fabrics are fed into smooth heated metal rolls for calendering keeping the speed of the rib fabric
greater than that of the plain woven fabric. The pressure on the calendar rolls is maintained at
about 8-10 tons. The result is undefined watermark or moiré effect is formed on the rib woven
fabric.

• Method Two:

• Embossed metal roll is used which has moiré pattern engraved on it. When the roll passes over a
fabric, the ribs are flattened and a moiré pattern is created.

Schrenier Calendering:

• Produces low, soft, smooth and luster on the fabric.

• 3-bowl Calendering, top metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal lines per inch.

• This finish scatters light rays and produces a deep-seated luster rather shines.

• It can upgrade low quality cotton fabric. Also produces a softer hand and improved fabric cover.

Decatizing:

 It is a mechanical finish.

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  Applied on wool as well as some fabrics composed of manmade fibers.

 This process is mainly carried out on wool by exploiting its elastic properties in hot and wet
conditions by the direct action of the steam on the fabric.

 On fabrics made with other fibres, the same treatment can be carried out as "steam ironing"
alternatively to the calendering treatment, when an excessive "glazing effect" could result from
the treatment.

Objectives:

 To improve appearance, shape, handle, luster & smoothness.

 It is used to set the luster and permanent sheen.

 To achieve a finish fast to water spotting.

 Set the fabric length & width.

 Wet decating:

 In this material is wound tightly on a perforated iron roller and immersed through trough of hot
water that forces the water through the fabric.

 This process is comparable to steam ironing.

 Dry decating:

 Steam is used instead of water.

 Steaming under tension (After calendering or rotary press)

This treatment gives the processed fabric the following characteristics:

• Dimensional stability;
• Setting of pile after raising;
• Reduction of possible glazing effect after calendering, due to the swelling caused by steam
blown on fibres;
• Modification of the hand by the action of moisture, which is much more consistent after the
treatment;
• Pre-stabilization to autoclave dyeing.

There are three methods of Decatizing:

1. Finish Decatizing

2. Luster Decatizing

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 3. Pressure or kier Decatizing

Finish Decatizing:

• kind of face finish Soft hand, special bulky surface.

• Cylinder diameter – 800 to 900 mm

• Molten wrapper

• Winding – as low tension/stretching is possible

• Feeding at low pressure or low stretch

• Steam- inside out (moist saturated steam is used)

• Temperature – 102oC

• Time – 7 to 10 min.

Luster Decatizing:

• Also called as semi-Decatizing

• Shiny appearance

• Thinning operations involved

• Cylinder dia. -250 to 300 mm

• Wrapper cloth – satin

• Pressurized steam – 1 kg pressure, 110oC temp.

• Circulation of steam – outside in + inside out, outside in + Suction

• Residual moisture- maintained at 14 % to 15 %

• Time – 5 to 10 min.

Pressure Decatizing:

• Clear finish, clear projection of pattern of weave

• Steaming time 2 to 5 min

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 • Temperature 120oC

• Molten wrapper

• Residual moisture 10-15 %

• Liquor circulation – outside in + suction

Continuous pressure decating process.

 Under the influence of steam, if cloth is run in relaxed state, then the cloth shrinks-
relaxation shrinkage

 Steam used in luster & pressure Decatizing is dry saturated; i.e., it does not contain free
water.

Shearing:

 Shearing is a process used to cut off surface fibers on fabrics.

 It makes the surface uniform of napped fabrics and pile fabrics.

 A fabric shear is the high speed machine which performs this operation, has cutting
action similar to a lawn mower.

 The blades are stationary and the fabric moves to the cutting blades.

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  Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height.

 Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface.

 This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling
tendency.

 For pile fabrics, napped fabrics, Special type of raised surface fabric like corduroy.

A = fabric; B = gib;C = fixed blade;

D = helical blades;E = suction unit; F = brushing drum.

 To obtain a better evenness of the fabric surface, the shearing operation must be
carried out with two cylinders equipped with helical blades arranged in the opposite
direction,

 or with an even number of passages carried out with cylinders rotating each time in the
opposite direction (crosscuts).

Cropping:

 It is cutting the surface hair from the fabric to give a smooth appearance, often used on
woolen goods where the removal of surface hair by singeing process is not possible.

Napping/Brushing:

 Napping/brushing – fiber ends raised by mechanical brushing.

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  Mechanical finish for woven and knitted fabrics.

 Fabrics are passed against rotating bristled wire covered rollers. Thereby raising the
fibers from fabric surface.

 Provides softer hand and better insulation; widely used in blankets, sleep wear and
winter clothing.

 Drawback: Subject to pilling in particularly sleeve ends, coat fronts, buttonholes, elbows
and other rubbing areas.

 Requirement: Medium twist warp, low twist weft.

 On cotton & rayon not permanent.

 Examples: woolen flannels, rayon flannel, Flannelette, brushed rayon's etc.

Sueding:

 This process abrades the surface of fabric causing fibrils to split from the fibers to
produce shorter pile surface.

 Using abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.)

 Creates softer hand of fabric & cause an apparent shade change.

 Alternative Terms: Emerizing, Sueding, Sanding or Peach finish.

 Produces soft and smooth/silky feel.

 The fabric moves at a speed of 15-20 meters per minute under two or more rollers with
fine emery paper on first roller to more abrasive paper in each successive roller.

 High abrasion and coarse abrasive sheet may cause damage to fabric.

 Abrasion generate heat may cause harshness on synthetic fabric.

 After this finish=> heat set=> washing=> dyeing

 Decreases the strength by 60%.

 Dry cleaning is preferred for this fabric.

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  Can be applied to P/C, P/N blends, and 100% silk, polyester, nylon and Micro denier
synthetics for sportswear.

Shrinkage Control Finishes:

• Relaxation Shrinkage

• Occurs because the fibers and yarns are under considerable tension when fabrics are
made.

• Relaxation shrinkage occurs only once.

• Progressive Shrinkage
• Occurs each time a fabric is laundered.
• Residual Shrinkage

• Frequently, even after fabrics have been properly preshrunk, there is a small amount of
shrinkage potential still remaining.

• This shrinkage is called residual shrinkage.

• Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving, the tensions created by being
held on the loom are relaxed.

• Sanforized, compressive shrinkage: Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between

two blankets overfed over heated cylinders.

• Sanfor-set, uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent

• Heat setting, for thermoplastics, heat fibers above their glass transition temperature-
created a permanent shape

• Shrinkage Control for Wool

• Remove the scales from the surface of the fiber (Ant felting)

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 • Is a halogenation treatment

• Or coat the scales with a polymer

• Coating is usually nylon

• SANFORIZED®: A trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., denoting a controlled

standard of shrinkage performance. Fabrics bearing this trademark will not shrink more
than 1% because they have been subjected to a method of compressive shrinkage
involving feeding the fabric between a stretched blanket and a heated shoe. When the
blanket is allowed to retract, the cloth is physically forced to comply.

 SANFOR-SET®: A trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc.,

 denoting a controlled standard of shrinkage performance originally developed for

denims.

 Fabrics bearing this trademark will not shrink under home-wash, tumble-dry conditions
because they have been subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment and compressive
shrinkage.

Wrinkle free finishes/ Resin finishes:

 Cotton fabrics and other cellulosic fibers crease because When a fiber is folded, the
polymeric chains come closer, creating sufficient distance to form hydrogen bonds.

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  These Hydrogen bonds are formed when fabric is folded makes crease more permanent.
Hence the fabrics do not recover to their original state and remain creased.

Principles of wrinkle Recovery:-

 The cross links have to be introduced between H-H bonds should have flexibility.

 Different types of resins are used as cross linking agents to improve wrinkle recovery.

Parameters considered while introducing cross-links:-

 Type of cross linking agent.

 Catalyst which helps to form cross-links

 Process conditions with respect to temperature, time, & residual moisture.

 Process steps or sequence

 Important to decide weather it is anti-crease finish, wash ‘n’ wear or durable press
finish.

Resins:

 Resin Precondensates

 DMU (Di-methylol Urea/Urea Formaldehyde)

 DMEU (Di-methylol Ethylene Urea)

 DMDHEU (Di-methylol dihydroxy Ethylene Urea)

 DMPU (Di-methylol Propylene Urea)

 TMM (Di-methylol melamine/ Melamine formaldehyde)

 Di-methylol ethyl carbamate

Catalysts:

 Acid catalysts :

 Ammonium salts such as Diammonium Phosphate (DAP), Diammonium dihydrogen

phosphate (DADHP)

 Polymerizing Catalyst:

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  Zincronium acetate, ZN or Cu or lead acetate

 Weak acids:

 Sulphonic acid is used

 Acid liberating Agents:

 Acidic salts of Zn, Mg, or NH4

 E.g. ZnCl2, MgCl2, ZnSo4, etc.

 Common Practice:-

 Sulphonic Acid + zinc Nitrate

Methods of Resin Application:

 Pre-cure

 Post-cure

 Garment dip

 Spray (metered)

 Vapour phase

Anti crease:

 Finish where a fabric has an ability of dry crease recovery, however, ironing is must after
washing.

 Formulation for Anti-crease finish:

 100 gm/l of resin (water sol. Cross-linking agent)

 Above 5 g/l catalyst if organic acid is used

 Above 10 g/l catalyst if acid liberating agent is used.

 Above 40 g/l softening agent (non-ionic) common: polyethylene wax emulsion.

 5 % add-on

 Padà Dry at 80oCà Cure at 150oC.

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Wash-N-Wear

 Material has ability to recover from crease in both wet & dry state. So, there is no need
of ironing even after washing.

 But, pleats cannot be formed in garments.

 Introduction of DCR & WCR

 No curing under dry conditions

 Curing under Damp condition

 Use much more active resin or a stronger catalyst.

 2 choices:-

 Combination of 2 resins- one of which has higher activity than other. + 1 catalyst.

 Combination of 2 catalysts – one strong and one weak + 1 resin.

 Total qty. of add-on is practically double.

 100 g/l of strong resin + 100 g/l of weak resin

 10-20 g/l of catalyst

 80 g/l softener

 àpad to impregnate material with resinà batching (whole batch is closed in a chamber
steamer and rotate) temperature 80-90oC, time 4 hrs.

 50% resin utilized in case of 2 catalysts, or

 The stronger resin reacts when there are 2 resins.

 This is the introduction of wet crease recovery.

 Drying and curing in stenter.

 The remaining resin reacts to introduce DCR.

 Time = 5 min

 Temperature = Drying 80oC, Curing 150 oC.

Durable press/ Permanent Press Finish:

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  Material has ability to smoothen in both wet & dry state and also intentional pleats and
folds can be given onto garments.

 Such a garment maintain proper size and shape.

 Same chemicals as Wash ‘n’ wear but Add on can be to the extent of 15 %.

 Same padding, batching and introduce WCRà Dry only, do not cure.

 This half way crease-recovered fabric is called sensitized fabric.

 The fabric only has WCR and not DCR, so after sewing, pleats introducedà

 Cure by any suitable pressing mechanism at 150oC for 5 minà

 Folds become permanent and rest of garment becomes smooth with wash ‘n’ wear
properties.

 Because of the curing done after garment is sewn, this is called post-cure process or
Differed cure process.

 Another process:

 Only one resin + one catalystà wet curingàstitch garmentàsprinkle another resinà dry &
cure

 This process is called as double cure process or two-phase process.

 Mostly one resin & two catalysts are used.

 In this case the most popular cross-linking agent globally is DMDHEU.

 No effect on dyed material with respect to shade and hue.

 No adverse effect on fastness.

 Sulphonic acid + zinc nitrate is used as catalyst which does not turn white material
yellow.

 DP/PP is not popular in 100 % cotton fabrics.

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  Instead of using 100% cotton, polyester cotton blends are used, with blend % of 15% p +
85 % C. this can bring down strength loss from 40% to 15% also, in case of P-C, resin
add-on values are drastically reduced. In this case the add on values are:

 2% - anti-crease

 4 %- wash ‘n’ wear

 6-8 % Durable

100% cotton

 Anti-creaseà 5 %

 Wash ‘n’ wear à 10%

 Durable press à 15 %

 CRA (crease recovery angle), is the sum of crease recovery angles of warp and the weft
directions of the fabric, increases from about 150o to about 300o.

Resin Finishing parameters & their controlling factors:

 Prior to Finishing & Garment Making:

 The base fabric must have sufficient strength to withstand 40-60% loss in tensile & tear
strength and still maintain sufficient strength to provide a garment of acceptable wear
life and durability.

 It must have excellent absorbency to allow the resin to penetrate into very interior of
the fibre to form sufficient cross links.

 It should not contain any size material as resins may react with such ingredients.

 The dyes applied on the fabric/garment must be fast to acid catalysts and high
temperature of curing.

 It should show a pH of 6.5-7 with an alkalinity of less than 0.05%.

 Dimensional stability/shrinkage is of utmost importance.

 During drying:

 Drying is one of the simplest processes critical for lot of mystery problems.

 Maintain dryer outlet temperature less than or equal to 75oC to avoid spot curing.

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  Maintain load sizes to ½ or 2/3 capacities to obtain load-to-load consistency.

 Maintain moisture content of 10-12% at high for medium and heavy fabrics, metered by
moisture meter.

 An effective cooling of a minimum 10 minutes time is preferable to attain required

moisture content.

During Curing:

 Batch oven or continuous oven

 Uniform heat distribution from top to bottom to side variations should not be more
than +_2oC

 Resin curing measured by Nitrogen fixation should be at least 85%.

 Ensure 155oC throughout the process.

 Ensure 15 min. of process for all batches equally without fail.

 Loss in tensile strength should match lab prediction.

 During pressing:

 Press temperature 150-160oC

 Quality of steam- dry steam with no alkalinity

 Vacuum- the pull measured in inches by Mercury to about 6-10 inches.

 Pressing head-preferably aluminium head.

Types of soil-related finishes:

Soil Repellent

Does not allow soil to accumulate on fabric, throws away dirt whenever it falls on fabric.

Soil Release

Holds the soil but releases easily during laundering.

Anti-soil redeposition

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 Soil redeposits on same fabric on different area or on other fabric, i.e. anti-soil redeposition
finish is required.

Soil Repellent

Soil repellent finishes hold dirt and oily stains on the surface of the textile for a time so they
can be readily removed.

It is important to blot the spill quickly, as the soil or spill can work its way into the fibers
after a period of time.

Soil repellent finishes are very useful in carpeting and upholstery and are desirable in
draperies and fabric window shades.

Soil Repellent: Compounds

Permanent finish

Specially designed silicone emulsion

Fluoro-carbon

Silicones are used for natural fibers – solid dirt

Fluoro-carbons (non-sticking) are used for synthetic- liquid soil

Cationic softeners- semi permanent

Quaternary ammonium compounds.

Lasts for 10-12 washes.

Spraying on material à temporary effect on (8-10 washes) renewable compounds.

Paraffin wax emulsion and non-ionic softeners à temporary finish

Does not form ionic bond with soil, hence the soil skids away.

 Bio-imitics

 Developed by Japan

 Soil drops are not allowed to flatten and the droplets are slide away from the surface.

 Material is coated on surface such that soil slips.

 Disadvantage of soil repellent finish:

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  Reduces permeability of fabrics, hence not comfortable- closes interstices.

 Soil repellent finishes are available as either durable or non-durable.

 If the treatment is applied to the fabric when it is manufactured or when it's sent to a
fabric finishing company, it is durable.

 Topical application from a spray can or in the back room of a furniture warehouse is
non-durable.

 There are well-known brand names for soil repellent finishes, such as 3M's
Scotchgard[TM] and DuPont's Teflon® finish. However, many products are now on the
market, so it is wise to compare the durability of each product.

Water Proof Finish:

 When a fabric is considered water proof, it is impermeable to water as well as air or

water vapour.

 Waterproof will not get wet through to the back.

 Application areas:-

 Tent cloth

 Tarpaulins

 Rain coats

 Umbrellas

 Covering & Packaging material

Water Proof Finish: For water-proof effect, the fiber as well as the gaps between fibers, are
covered with water-proof substance, i.e., strong hydrophobic chemicals are made to adhere
on the surface of the fabric.

 Chemical forms a film, which is fully hydrophobic, on the surface of the fabric.

 Techniques Used:

 Dipping technique:

Dip material in compound and take it out.

 Spraying technique:

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Spray compound on surface of fabric in liquid form and

then dry.

 Brushing technique:

Brushing the compound on the surface and then dry.

 Lamination & coating technique:

Laminate or coat the material with the compound.

Coating Compounds:

Natural :

 Micro-crystalline wax

 Drying oil

 Bitumen

Synthetic polymeric compounds:

 Polyethylene

 Polypropylene

 Polyvinyl chloride

Elastomeric compounds include:

 Synthetic rubber

 PVAc (polyvinyl acetate)

 Polyurethane

 Polystyrene

Drying oil

on drying form a transparent water-proof film. Eg. Oil-bound distemper.

 Drying oil is used as a coating material for thick canvas or woven material.

 Tarpaulin:

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  Bitumen coating used for textile purposes. Bitumen tar is obtained from coal; hence it is
an aromatic compound.

 Do not give lasting effect. On frequent laundering the film starts cracking. Hence; not
suitable for apparel purposes

 Advantages of synthetic Polymers:-

 Low add on [10-14 %]

Elastomeric compounds:
Makes fabric elastic & fluffy and gives better compression strength.
Major compound = PolyurethaneàStrongly hydrophobic, expensive
Used in defense materials.

Water repellent Finish:

 Permeability to air or vapour, but impermeable to water in liquid state .

 Prevent water from being absorbed, resists wetting, but if water strikes with enough
force, it will penetrate.

 Application areas:-

 Sports wear

 Swimwear

 Gym wear

 Some home textiles.

 Fabric must have the interstices intact, only the threads should be covered.

 Water repellants

Three main types:

1. Wax finish

2. Silicone finish

3. Fluorine finish

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Chemically combining compounds are:-

 VELAN PF

 Or ZELAN (substitute of VELAN PF in India)

 Silicon Emulsion:

 Fluoro compounds/Fluoro carbons [FC]

 VELAN PF:

 Stearic acid condensed with methylol containing nitrogen compounds.

 padà dryàCure

 These compounds are also known as stearamides.

 Silicon Emulsion:

 Can react directly without any condensation

 Available in the form of silicone oils.

 Silicone Emulsion + Catalyst

 Padàdryà cure

 permanent water repellency

 Silicones are not good for oily- dirt. Synthetic fibers get heavily soiled by oily-dirt
(hydrophobic). Hence silicones are not used for synthetic fibers.

 Fluoro compounds/Fluoro carbons [FC]

 Water-proofing substance + fluoro compound + Methylol containing nitrogen

compounds.

 Good for synthetic fibres because of their oil-repellent properties.

 However, these are very expensive and non-ecofriendly, hence they are banned.

Approach followed to achieve flame retardant (FR) finishes:-

Coating:

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 • Chemical treatment producing some gas which cuts off oxygen content to a burning
surface by producing tremendous smoke.

Gas:

• Prevent production of combustible gases by combining with certain metals that form
nonflammable complexes.

Thermal:

• Convert hydrogen to water vapour. Produce an endothermic reaction which doesn’t

generate further heat.

Chemical: Carbon + Water

• Compounds used:-

• Boron compounds- boric acid, borates, etc.

• Antimony, titanium & zinc- oxides & salts

• Nitrogen compounds- urea(cools down water giving endothermic reaction),

diammonium Phosphate.

• Coating : Carbonates, borates & ammonium salt.

• Gas: Mixture of Titanium & Antimony oxides.

• Thermal: T.H.P.C.

• Chemical: Phosphoric & sulphuric acid, metal oxides.

• Technique:-

• Spraying

• Coating

• Problems:-

• Compounds come out on laundering 2-3 times.

• Frequent application required because of their temporary nature.

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FSA-III by A.A.Naik, Associate Professor DFT, NIFT Mumbai.
 • Fabric weight & feel affected due to the fact that the compounds have to be
present on fabric surface for as substantial amount of about 20-25%.

• Effects effluent and is non-ecofriendly.

• Semi-durable treatment:-

• Compounds can be used with certain binders which do not support heat.

• Eg. PVC, chlorinated paraffin wax, etc.

• Permanent treatment:-

• Compounds, which are capable to react chemically with the active group of fiber,
are used. These are called reactive finishes.

• Phorporous or sulphur, when fitted within the network of an organic compound, acts as
the best compound to produce permanent flame retardancy.

• However, flame-retardants are fiber-specific. Hence blended fibers could not be made
flame retardant.

• Proban® compoundà contains THPC (a phosphorous chlorine compound or THPOH a

phosphor-hydroxyl compound)

• Pyrovatex CP à phosphorus-chlorine or phosphorus- hydroxyl compounds.

• These compounds are applied using the padàdryàcure method. They are applied in
presence of nitrogen

Application Areas:

• Close to skin garments, Home furnishing fabrics, Children’s sleepwear, Carpets,

Mattresses, Upholstered furniture.

Soil Release

Soil release finishes that allow soil to be more easily removed in laundering, counteract the
oleophilic nature of thermoplastic fibers.

Add hydrophilic surfaces to the fibers that attracts water, thus allowing the fabric to be wetted
out.

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FSA-III by A.A.Naik, Associate Professor DFT, NIFT Mumbai.
Compounds are same as soil repellent but, used as emulsions.

Pad-dry method

Leaves the interstices and hence does not affect permeability.

Interstices trap soil initially but releases soil easily on laundering.

 Synthetic fibers

 Cover the fabric with some hydrophilic compounds like polyethylene glycol, or some
other glycol compounds

 Permanent= silicone + polyethylene glycol in emulsion form

 Anti-soil redeposition finish

 Preventing re-deposition of removed soil

 Add compounds in detergent

 Deposit on fabric

 Polyphosphates:

 Na-Hexa-Meta [SHMP] phosphate

 Na- tri polyphosphate [STPP] 10-25% conc. In detergent.

 Zeolite

 Na-silicate used in laundery bars or detergent bars.

 CMC (Carboxy methyl cellulose):

 Water swell able compound

 CMC and zeolite are safer, and can be used for coating on fabrics.

 Used extensively on carpets and upholstery fabrics.

 Also used on apparel fabrics, especially those containing polyester.

 Very durable if applied at the finishing plant; little durability if applied by the consumer

 Stain repellant:

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FSA-III by A.A.Naik, Associate Professor DFT, NIFT Mumbai.
  Finishes that repel stains, chemically and physically modify the surface of the fabric.

 These form a layer that is chemically neutral to stain agents.

 The new “nano” finishes add the finish at the small molecular level rather than forming
coating on the surfaces.

 Many are fluorocarbons

 Scotchguard removed from the market in May 2000 because the precursors of the
fluorocarbon had environmental problems. Additional problems with C8 announced in
summer 2003.

Anti-bacterial/anti-microbial/Bacteriostatic finish:
• Used in medical textiles, home textiles, Automotive textiles

• Medical textiles:-

• Surgical gowns, caps, drapes, masks, total operation theater, bedsheets, blankets,
bedcovers, nurses apparel wound dressing, cotton-wiping, cloth. Etc.

• Other uses:-

• T-shirts, children wear, undergarments, socks, shoe lining, sweatshirts, sports wear,
bathroom sets.

• Defense personnel’s uniform.

• Controls:

• Bacteria multiplies because of climatic conditions (humid weather and high

temperature)- cannot be controlled.

• Grey material(with impurities) is more prone to bacteria attack. Fabric should be well
scoured.

• Preventive measures- prevent the multiplication of bacteriaàbacteriostat

• Curing measures- kill the bacteria whenever it forms àbactericide

• Note: bactericides also affect the human skin cells, hence it is not preferred.

• As compared to synthetic fibers, natural fibres are more prone to bacteria growth.
However, synthetic fibers act as a storehouse for bacteria when attacked.

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FSA-III by A.A.Naik, Associate Professor DFT, NIFT Mumbai.
Factors considered while selecting compounds:-

• Should not have toxic effect on human skin

• Should not be polluting

• Should not produce any colour or smell.

• Should be durable

• Should not alter mechanical properties of the fibre.

• Should not create effluent problems.

• Permanent effect:

• Silver compounds (nitrite, sulphates, sulphones, etc.) converted to nono form à give a
lifetime effect.

• Compounds available:-

• inorganic compounds like Ag – 2 ppm soluble glass powder/silicate compounds titanium

compounds

• Organo silicones or silicone polymers

• quaternary Ammonium compounds

• phenolsà Bizol, thimol

• tri-ethanol amine [TEA]

• natural bacteriostatà Bitter neem

• fish pritein- chittin, kitin

•  Zeolite: Remains on surface, comes out on laundering

• Anti-insect treatment – primarily required for overcoats, carpets, socks, sweaters, etc.

• Mercapto-ethanol- water soluble

• Traps AgNo3

• 2% max . level & forms complex with it.

• Light wash-treat woolen material with low conc. Of AgNo3.

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FSA-III by A.A.Naik, Associate Professor DFT, NIFT Mumbai.
 • Note complex formed is insoluble and does not come out on washing.

• nickel compounds, Sb (Antimony) and Arsenic

• Compounds- Very good but harmful to environment, i.e., non-ecofriendly therefore, not
used.

• Citriozol- volatile oil, mosquito repellent

• Pyrithide- Coil, best for wll, mix with napthates –masks bad odour.

Wool Finishing

There are two types of finishes given to wool:-

1. Clear finish:-
 gives full clarity & projection of weave and internal structure of fabric
 used in case of worsted suitings

2. Face finish:-

Creates effects on fabric-face that adds to the value of the fabric; actual details of fabric are hidden.

Milled finish or melted finish

- gives fullness, bulkiness to fabric.

Raised finish or pile finish

- hairiness of fabric is controlled by trimming off the raised hairs.

For worsted suitings:

1. Scouring is done at fiber stage

2. there is very less shrinkage
3. Defelting treatments are given
4. only setting and singeing is done.

For woolens:

1. Scouring has to be done in fabric stage, because the fibers are unable to bear the force of
scouring and may break if fiber scouring is done.
2. Requires milling, shearing, raising and setting, pilling.
3. No singeing is required.

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FSA-III by A.A.Naik, Associate Professor DFT, NIFT Mumbai.
Rope scouring-Carbonization

(for removing foreign matter, pad with H2 SO4 the matter gets charred )BeatingWashing
Milling or no milling (where fabric is strong) then go for hydro extraction

Reasons why combined scouring & milling is preferred:

1. A conventional milling machine can be converted to a combined scouring & milling machine by
giving simple modifications.
2. A conventional milling machine can accommodate 1 rope at a time, whereas, a combined
scouring & milling machine accommodates 4 to 6 ropes at a time, thus giving higher production.
Capacity of a conventional milling m/c = 60-75 kg/rope.
3. The reagent used in this machine is sulphuric acid, which can be further used for carbonizing
process. Separate scouring method reagent Sod. Carbonate.

For wool, batch processing is done

Decatizing is done for heat setting of a dimensionally unstable woolen fabric. By heat setting, the
fabric gets stabilized.

Pilling or shearing (raise the fiber then cut the raised fiber to a certain height)

PressingSetting (Decatizing) ControlFinished Fabric

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FSA-III by A.A.Naik, Associate Professor DFT, NIFT Mumbai.