1•1

Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Contents
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Air cleaner temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Handbrake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks” Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 HT lead, distributor cap and ignition circuit check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Brake hydraulic fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Ignition timing and contact breaker gap (dwell angle) check
Brake hydraulic system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 - OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Choke adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Contact breaker point renewal and distributor lubrication Mixture adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
- OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Emission control filter element renewal - CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . .30 Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Spark plug check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Engine idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Engine valve clearance check - OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Throttle damper operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Timing belt renewal - CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”
Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks” Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 1
Front and rear brake pad/shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Servicing Specifications
Lubricants and fluids See end of “Weekly checks”

Capacities
Engine oil
With filter:
1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 Imp pints)
1.3,1.4 and 1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.50 litres (6.2 Imp pints)
Without filter:
1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.75 litres (4.8 Imp pints)
1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 Imp pints)
Cooling system (including heater)
1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 litres (9.7 Imp pints)
1.3 and 1.4 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres (11.1 Imp pints)
1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres (14.1 Imp pints)
Fuel tank
All models - pre 1985, except XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 litres (7.5 gallons)
XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 litres (8.4 gallons)
All models - 1985 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 litres (8.8 gallons)
Gearbox
4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 litres (4.9 Imp pints)
5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres (5.5 Imp pints)
1•2 Servicing Specifications
Engine
Oil filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104
Valve clearances (only OHV applicable):
Inlet:
At operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.22 mm (0.009 in)
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 mm (0.008 to 0.010 in)
Exhaust:
At operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.59 mm (0.023 in)
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.56 to 0.61 mm (0.022 to 0.024 in)

Cooling system
Drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm (0.16 in) total deflection at the midpoint of the belt’s longest run

Fuel system
Air filter element type:
1.0 and 1.1 (OHV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W153
1.3 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W127
1.4 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W179
1.6 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W201

Ignition system
Spark plugs:
Make and type:
Mechanical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC
Electronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
Electrode gap:
RS9YCC and RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.80 mm (0.032 in)
RS9YC and RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 mm (0.030 in)
Note: The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to
be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.
Contact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.50 mm (0.016 to 0.020 in)
Dwell (mechanical ignition):
Angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48° to 52°
Variation (from idle to 2000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4° maximum
Overlap (lobe-to-lobe variation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° maximum
Timing (initial):
1.0 litre OHV (pre 1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC
1.1 litre OHV (pre 1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC
Ignition HT lead set:
Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 k ohms maximum per lead
Type:
Mechanical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion CLS 8 boxed set
Electronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion CLS 9 boxed set

Brakes
Front brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.059 in)
Rear brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm (0.04 in)

Tyres
Tyre sizes:
Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle
handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations.
XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185/60 HR 13
Other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 SR 13, 155/70 SR 13 or 165/65 SR 13
Tyre pressures: See end of “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Radiator coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1
Gearbox oil filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74
Spark plugs:
OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 20 10 to 15
CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20
Brake caliper piston housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
 Maintenance schedule 1•3

The maintenance intervals in this manual wish to perform some of these procedures speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,
are provided with the assumption that you will more often. We encourage frequent more frequent maintenance intervals are
be carrying out the work yourself. These are maintenance, because it enhances the recommended.
the minimum maintenance intervals efficiency, performance and resale value of When the vehicle is new, it should be
recommended by the manufacturer for your vehicle. serviced by a factory-authorised dealer
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used service department, in order to preserve the
vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow factory warranty.

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
m Refer to “Weekly checks” 12 months - whichever comes sooner
(continued)
m Renew spark plugs (Section 21)
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or m Check gearbox oil level (Section 22)
6 months - whichever comes sooner m Renew distributor contact breaker points and
lubricate distributor - OHV engines (Section 23)
m Renew engine oil and filter (Section 3) m Check security and condition of steering and
m Check brake pads or shoes for wear (front and suspension components, gaiters and boots
rear) (Section 4) (Section 24)
m Check operation of brake fluid level warning m Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or
indicator (Section 4) other damage (Section 25)
m Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for m Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 26)
fluid leaks or other signs of damage (Section 5) m Road test (Section 27)
m Check function and condition of seat belts m Check crankcase ventilation system (Section 28) 1
(Section 6)
m Check condition and security of exhaust system
(Section 7)
m Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 8)
m Check choke adjustment (Section 9) Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2
m Check idle speed (Section 10)
m Check mixture adjustment (Section 11) years - whichever comes sooner
m Check spark plugs (Section 12) m Check air cleaner temperature control (Section 29)
m Check HT leads, distributor cap and ignition circuit m Renew emission control filter element - CVH
(Section 13) engines (Section 30)
m Check operation of latches, check straps and m Renew air cleaner element (Section 31)
locks; lubricate if necessary (Section 14)
m Check ignition timing and contact breaker gap
(dwell angle) (OHV engines) (Section 15)
m Check operation of throttle damper (where
applicable) (Section 16) Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3
years - whichever comes sooner
m Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or necessary (Section 32)
m Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 33)
12 months - whichever comes sooner m Renew timing belt - CVH engines (Section 34)
m Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and m Check front wheel alignment (Section 35)
neutralise corrosion (Section 17)
m Check engine valve clearances - OHV engines
(Section 18)
m Check handbrake mechanism (Section 19)
m Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
(Section 20) m Renew coolant (Section 36)
1•4 Maintenance - component location
Engine compartment - OHV
1 Coolant expansion tank
2 Engine oil dipstick
3 Oil filter
4 Ignition coil
5 Brake fluid reservoir
6 Battery
7 Cooling fan
8 Oil filler cap
9 Carburettor (air cleaner removed)
10 Alternator
11 Washer reservoir

Engine compartment - CVH

1 Coolant expansion tank
2 Engine oil dipstick
3 Carburettor (air cleaner removed)
4 Fuel pump
5 Distributor
6 Ignition coil
7 Windscreen wiper motor
8 Ignition amplifier module
9 Battery
10 Brake fluid reservoir
11 Cooling fan
12 Oil filler cap
13 Washer reservoir
 Maintenance - component location 1•5

Underside view of car at front - CVH

1 Suspension arm
2 Driveshaft
3 Tie-bar
4 Alternator
5 Sump
6 Exhaust
7 Starter motor
8 Engine/gearbox bearer
9 Gearbox
10 Disc brake caliper
11 Gearchange rod and stabilizer rod

Underside view of car at rear

1 Rear silencer
2 Brake secondary cable
3 Fuel tank
4 Suspension coil spring
5 Shock absorber lower mounting
6 Panhard rod
7 Anti-roll bar (certain models only)
8 Towing eye
9 Axle beam
10 Exhaust system mounting
11 Handbrake adjustment check plunger
12 Suspension trailing arm
13 Brake pressure control valve
1•6 Maintenance procedures
The first step in this maintenance engine wear, conventional maintenance as
1 Introduction programme is to prepare yourself before the described in this Chapter will not greatly
actual work begins. Read through all the improve the performance of the engine, and
Sections relevant to the work to be carried may prove a waste of time and money, unless
out, then make a list and gather together all extensive overhaul work is carried out first.
This Chapter is designed to help the home the parts and tools required. If a problem is The following series of operations are those
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, encountered, seek advice from a parts most often required to improve the
economy, long life and peak performance. specialist, or a dealer service department. performance of a generally poor-running
The Chapter contains a master engine:
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections 2 Intensive maintenance Primary operations
dealing specifically with each task in the a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, b) Check all the engine-related fluids
component renewal and other helpful items c) Check the condition and tension of the
are included. Refer to the accompanying If, from the time the vehicle is new, the auxiliary drivebelt
illustrations of the engine compartment and routine maintenance schedule is followed d) Renew the spark plugs
the underside of the vehicle for the locations closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -
of the various components. levels and high-wear items, as suggested as applicable
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with throughout this manual, the engine will be f) Check the condition of the air cleaner
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and kept in relatively good running condition, and filter element, and renew if necessary
the following Sections will provide a planned the need for additional work will be minimised. g) Renew the fuel filter (if fitted)
maintenance programme, which should result It is possible that there will be times when h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
in a long and reliable service life. This is a the engine is running poorly due to the lack of check for fluid leaks
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some regular maintenance. This is even more likely i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings
items but not others at the specified service if a used vehicle, which has not received - as applicable
intervals, will not produce the same results. regular and frequent maintenance checks, is If the above operations do not prove fully
As you service your vehicle, you will purchased. In such cases, additional work effective, carry out the following secondary
discover that many of the procedures can - may need to be carried out, outside of the operations:
and should - be grouped together, because of regular maintenance intervals.
the particular procedure being performed, or If engine wear is suspected, a compression Secondary operations
because of the close proximity of two test will provide valuable information a) Check the charging system
otherwise-unrelated components to one regarding the overall performance of the main b) Check the ignition system
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised internal components. Such a test can be used c) Check the fuel system
for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected as a basis to decide on the extent of the work d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -
at the same time as the suspension and to be carried out. If, for example, a as applicable
steering components. compression test indicates serious internal e) Renew the ignition HT leads - as applicable

6000 Mile (10 000 Km) / 6 Month Service

up and supported on axle stands (see 6 Move the container into position under the
3 Engine oil and filter renewal
1 “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever
method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the
drain plug is at the lowest point.
oil filter.
7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by
hand the rest of the way (see illustration).
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see Empty the oil from the old filter into the
important preventative maintenance illustration). Position the draining container container, and discard the filter.
procedures which can be undertaken by the under the drain plug, then remove the plug 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes completely. If possible, try to keep the plug sludge from the filter sealing area on the
diluted and contaminated, which leads to pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
premature engine wear. hand the last couple of turns. Recover the the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
2 Before starting this procedure, gather sealing washer from the drain plug. engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean Remove the engine oil drain
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any plug quickly so that the
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, stream of oil runs into the
as it will drain better, and more built-up container, not up your sleeve!
sludge will be removed with it. Take care,
however, not to touch the exhaust or any
other hot parts of the engine when working 4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of noting that it may be necessary to reposition
scalding, and to protect yourself from the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
possible skin irritants and other harmful 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
contaminants in used engine oils, it is drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out washer for condition, and renew it if
this work. Access to the underside of the necessary. Clean the area around the drain
vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the 3.3 Removing the sump drain plug
raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked plug to the specified torque.
 Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•7

12 Start the engine and run it for a few 4 The rear brake shoe friction material can be
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter inspected for wear without removing the
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there roadwheels. Working beneath the vehicle,
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil prise the plug from the brake backplate and
pressure warning light goes out when the using an inspection lamp or torch, check that
engine is first started, as the oil circulates the friction material thickness is not less than
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil the minimum given in the Specifications (see
filter, before the pressure builds up. illustrations). If any one of the shoes has
13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few worn below the specified limit, the shoes must
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once be renewed as an axle set (4 shoes).
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter 5 At the same interval, check the function of
completely full, recheck the level on the the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. wheels, release the handbrake and switch on
3.7 Removing the engine oil filter with a 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely. the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
clamp wrench reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
4 Front and rear brake
pad/shoe check 1 sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the
cap.
6 On completion, refit the wheels and lower
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. the car to the ground.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug. 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
10 Remove the old oil and all tools from the front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
under the car, then lower the car to the
ground (if applicable).
11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct
vehicle support”).
2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
5 Fluid leak check
1
wheels by inserting a mirror between each
grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and
caliper and roadwheel (see illustrations). If
fluids” and “Capacities” in the Specifications).
any one pad is worn down to the minimum
An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce Leaks in the cooling system
specified thickness, all four pads (on both
spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of will usually show up as
front wheels) must be renewed.
oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake disc white or rust-coloured
fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small pads should be removed and cleaned. The deposits around the area 1
quantity at a time until the level is up to the operation of the caliper can then also be adjoining the leak.
lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring the checked, and the condition of the brake discs
level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to 1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap. Chapter 9 for further information. gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected
but what you are really looking for is any
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in
this manual.
2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3 Check the security and condition of all the
4.2a Using a mirror to check disc brake 4.2b Inspect the disc brake pads through engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that
pads for wear the caliper housing aperture all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and
in good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which
is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks
will show up better if the hose is squeezed.
Pay close attention to the hose clips that
secure the hoses to the system components.
Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses,
resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips are
used, it may be a good idea to replace them
with screw-type clips.
4.4a Remove the inspection plug from the 4.4b . . . to check the rear brake linings for 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel
rear brake backplate . . . wear tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and
1•8 Every 6000 miles or 6 months
other damage. The connection between the
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.
6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
necessary repair work has been carried out.
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay 7.1 Inspect the exhaust system rubber
particular attention to the vent pipes and mounting
hoses which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
9 Choke adjustment check
2 10.2 Ford 1V carburettor idle speed screw
(A) and mixture screw (B)

8 From within the engine compartment,

On models equipped with carburettors of Ford VV carburettor
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
Ford manufacture, refer to Chapter 4, Section 3 This procedure must be carried out with the
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses 9 and check that the choke is adjusted within radiator cooling fan in operation. To keep the
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and the stated parameters. fan running during the adjustment procedure,
deterioration.
disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
9 Check the condition of all exposed wiring
thermal switch (located in the thermostat
harnesses.

6 Seat belt check

10 Engine idle speed check
3 housing) and bridge the two contacts in the
plug with a short length of wire (see
illustration). Disconnect the wire and refit the
1 Note: Refer to the precautions given in
Section 1 of Chapter 4 before proceeding.
multi-plug on completion of the adjustments.
Make sure that the engine and ignition are
switched off when connecting and
Note: Before carrying out any carburettor disconnecting the bridging wire.
1 Periodically check the belts for fraying or adjustments, ensure that the ignition timing
other damage. If evident, renew the belt. 4 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted,
and spark plug gaps are set as specified. To
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
2 If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a carry out this adjustment, an accurate
securely connected and free from restrictions,
damp cloth using a little detergent only. tachometer will be required.
then run the engine until it is at normal
3 Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
Ford 1V carburettor operating temperature.
1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted, 5 With the engine at normal operating
that the original sequence of fitting of
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are temperature, connect a tachometer in
washers, bushes and anchor plates is
securely connected and free from restrictions, accordance with the manufacturer’s
retained.
then run the engine until it is at normal instructions.
operating temperature. 6 Start the engine, run it at 3000 rpm for 30
7 Exhaust system check seconds and then let it idle. Turn the idle

1
2 With the engine at normal operating
temperature, adjust the idle speed screw (see speed adjusting screw in or out as necessary
illustration) to obtain the specified idle speed, to bring the speed to that given in the Specifi-
using a tachometer to ensure accuracy. cations (see illustration).
With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”), check the exhaust system
for signs of leaks, corrosion or damage and
check the rubber mountings for condition and
security (see illustration). Where damage or
corrosion are evident, renew the system
complete or in sections, as applicable, using
the information given in Chapter 4.

8 Roadwheel security check

1
With the wheels on the ground, slacken
each wheel bolt by a quarter turn, then
retighten it immediately to the specified 10.3 Temporary bridging wire in cooling 10.6 Ford VV carburettor idle speed screw
torque. fan thermal switch multi-plug (A) and mixture screw (B)
 Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•9

10.7 Weber 2V carburettor idle speed 10.10 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor mixture 10.11 Weber 2V TLD carburettor mixture
screw (A) and mixture screw (B) screw (A) and idle speed screw (B) screw (A) and idle speed screw (B)

Weber 2V carburettor 6 Turn the idle mixture screw in the desired

7 Refer to the information relating to the Ford
1V carburettor for details, and to the
accompanying illustration (see illustration)
11 Mixture adjustment check
3 direction to achieve the fastest possible
engine speed consistent with smooth, even
running or the correct specified CO reading
on the meter scale.
for the adjusting screws. Ensure that the 7 If necessary, readjust the idle speed setting
Note: Refer to the precautions given in
engine fan is operating by pulling the two on completion. Fit a new tamperproof plug to
Section 1 of Chapter 4 before proceeding.
wires from the sensor, and connecting the the mixture screw.
Note: Before carrying out any carburettor
wires with a jumper lead. adjustments, ensure that the ignition timing Ford VV carburettor
Weber 2V DFTM and spark plug gaps are set as specified. To
8 This procedure must be carried out with the
carry out the adjustments an accurate
8 Before carrying out this adjustment, ensure radiator cooling fan in operation. To keep the
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that fan running during the adjustment procedure,
meter) will be required. Adjustment of the idle
all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely mixture setting should not be attempted in
disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the 1
connected and free from restrictions. Run the thermal switch (located in the thermostat
territories where this may cause a violation of
housing) and bridge the two contacts in the
engine until it is at normal operating exhaust emission regulations. Where these
plug with a short length of wire. Disconnect
temperature. regulations are less stringent the following
the wire and refit the multi-plug on completion
9 The cooling fan must be kept running procedures may be used.
of the adjustments. Make sure that the engine
during the adjustment procedure. To do this, Ford 1V carburettor and ignition are switched off when connecting
disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the and disconnecting the bridging wire.
thermal switch (located in the thermostat 1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted
9 To adjust the mixture accurately, connect a
housing) and bridge the two contacts in the and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
CO (exhaust gas) analyser and a tachometer
securely connected and free from restrictions,
plug with a short length of wire. in accordance with the manufacturer’s
then run the engine until it is at normal
10 Start the engine and turn the idle speed instructions.
operating temperature. 10 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly
adjustment screw (see illustration) to obtain
2 Using a small screwdriver, prise out the fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
the specified idle speed, using a tachometer tamperproof plug (if fitted) over the idle
to ensure accuracy. securely connected and free from restrictions,
mixture screw. then run the engine until it is at normal
Weber 2V TLD carburettor 3 Connect the CO meter and tachometer operating temperature.
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 11 Using a thin, sharp screwdriver, prise out
11 Refer to the information relating to the 4 Adjust the idle speed to the specified setting. the tamperproof plug which covers the
Weber 2V DFTM carburettor for details, and to 5 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds mixture screw.
the accompanying illustration (see illustration) to clear the inlet manifold of excess fuel. 12 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
for the adjusting screws. Repeat this operation every 30 seconds 30 seconds, then allow it to return to idle. Turn
Weber (1V) TLM carburettor during the adjustment procedure. the mixture screw in (weak) or out (rich) until
the CO level is within the specified range as
12 Before carrying out this adjustment, indicated on the analysing equipment. The
ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted adjustment must be carried out within 30
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are seconds; otherwise, again increase the engine
securely connected and free from restrictions. speed for 30 seconds before continuing with
Run the engine until it is at normal operating the adjustment.
temperature. 13 Once the mixture is correct, adjust the idle
13 Connect a reliable tachometer to the speed then recheck the mixture.
engine in accordance with the manufacturer’s 14 Switch off the engine and remove the
instructions. tachometer and the exhaust gas analyser. Fit
14 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm a new tamperproof plug to the mixture screw.
and hold it at this speed for 30 seconds, then 15 In the absence of a suitable exhaust gas
analyser, an approximate setting of the
allow the engine to idle. Adjust the idle speed
mixture screw may be made by turning the
to within the specified range by turning the 10.14 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor idle screw inwards (engine idling) until the idle
idle speed screw (see illustration). speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B) speed just begins to drop. Unscrew the screw
1•10 Every 6000 miles or 6 months
the smallest amount necessary to achieve
smooth idle. The CO level of the exhaust gas
should be checked by your dealer at the
earliest opportunity and further adjustment
carried out as may be necessary.
Weber 2V carburettor
16 Refer to the information relating to the
Ford 1V carburettor for details. Ensure that
the engine fan is operating by pulling the two
wires from the sensor, and connecting the
wires with a jumper lead.
Weber 2V DFTM carburettor
12.1a Clean around each spark plug . . . 12.1b . . . before using a socket to remove
17 The cooling fan must be kept running
the spark plugs
during the adjustment procedure. To do this,
disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the 27 With the engine at normal operating necessary and should not be attempted unless
thermal switch (located in the thermostat temperature, connect a tachometer and specialised equipment is available as damage
housing) and bridge the two contacts in the exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the can easily be caused to the firing ends.
plug with a short length of wire. manufacturer’s instructions. 4 The appearance of a removed spark plug
18 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly 28 Prise out the tamperproof plug from the can give some indication of the condition or
fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are mixture screw hole in the throttle valve block. state of tune of the engine, but as modern
securely connected and free from restrictions, 29 Wait for the radiator cooling fan to engines run on a weaker fuel/air mixture in
then run the engine until it is at normal operate, then raise the engine speed to 3000 order to conform to current emission control
operating temperature. rpm, hold it at this speed for 30 seconds, regulations, a rather whiter appearance of the
19 Using a small screwdriver, prise out the return to idle and check the exhaust CO level spark plug electrode area must be expected
tamperproof plug (if fitted) over the idle on the exhaust gas analyser. If it is not as than was the case on older cars. As the
mixture screw. specified, turn the mixture screw (clockwise to mixture control is preset during production, a
20 Connect the CO meter and tachometer weaken) and repeat the checking procedure. black appearance of the plug electrode will
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 30 On completion, fit a new tamperproof normally be due to oil passing worn piston
21 Adjust the idle speed to the correct setting. plug. rings or valve stem oil seals, unless the
22 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 carburettor has been tampered with.
seconds to clear the inlet manifold of excess
5 When installing the plugs use a long reach

1
fuel. Repeat this operation every 30 seconds 12 Spark plug check socket, apply a little grease to the threads of the
during the adjustment procedure.
plugs (see illustration) and tighten them only to
23 Turn the idle mixture screw in the desired
the specified torque wrench setting. Overtight-
direction to achieve the fastest possible
ening may damage the plug or its seat.
engine speed consistent with smooth, even
1 Pull the HT lead from each plug by grasping
running; or the correct specified CO reading
the end connector. Clean around each spark
on the meter scale.
plug (see illustration). Remove each plug
24 If necessary, readjust the idle speed
(see illustration) and check its electrode gap,
setting. Refit the cooling fan multi-plug and fit
a new tamperproof plug. which should be within the limits stated in
Specifications.
Weber 2V TLD carburettor 2 To adjust the gap, bend the outer electrode
25 Refer to the information relating to the with a proper spark plug gapping tool.
Weber 2V DFTM carburettor for details. Recheck the gap using feeler blades or wire
gauges (see illustrations).
Weber (1V) TLM carburettor 3 Note that the correct functioning of each
26 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly plug is vital for the correct running and
fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the
securely connected and free from restrictions, plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine and
then run the engine until it is at normal the suitable type is specified at the beginning 12.2a Measuring a spark plug electrode
operating temperature. of this Chapter. Spark plug cleaning is rarely gap with a feeler blade

12.2b Measuring a spark plug electrode 12.2c Adjusting a spark plug electrode 12.5 Lightly grease the spark plug threads
gap with a wire gauge gap with a special tool before fitting
 Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•11

13.2a HT lead connections - OHV engines 13.2b HT lead connections - CVH engines

3 Apply a spanner to the crankshaft pulley

13 HT lead, distributor cap and
ignition circuit check 1 14 Hinge and lock check and
lubrication 1 bolt and turn the crankshaft until the
distributor points are fully open, with the heel
of the cam follower on the highest point of
one of the lobes of the cam.
1 Clean each HT lead by wiping along its 1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the 4 Using feeler blades, check the points gap
length with a fuel-moistened cloth and inspect bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light (see illustration). If the blade is not a sliding
it for damage. machine oil. fit, release the screw at the fixed contact so
2 Note the fitted position of each lead before 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release that the contact will move and adjust the gap
mechanism and exposed sections of inner to that specified. Retighten the screw, refit the
disconnection (see illustrations). When
cable with a smear of grease. rotor and cap. Take care not to contaminate
removing a lead from a spark plug or the HT
3 Check the security and operation of all the points with oil from the feeler blades.
coil, pull the lead off by its rubber connector
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them 5 This method of adjustment should be 1
(see illustration).
where required. regarded as second best as on modern
3 The socket contacts on the distributor cap
4 Check the condition and operation of the engines, setting the points gap is usually
should be cleaned if they appear corroded
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is carried out by measuring the dwell angle.
(see illustration). A smear of petroleum jelly 6 The dwell angle is the number of degrees
(not grease) applied to the ferrule on the end leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised. through which the distributor cam turns
of the HT lead will help to prevent corrosion. during the period between the instants of
4 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm. closure and opening of the contact breaker
5 Examine the rotor arm and inside of the
distributor cap . If the contacts are corroded
or are excessively burnt, or if the carbon
centre contact in the cap is worn away, renew
15 Ignition timing and contact
breaker gap (dwell angle)
check - OHV engines
3 points. Checking the dwell angle not only
gives a more accurate setting of the contact
breaker gap, but this method also evens out
any variations in the gap which could be
the cap or rotor, as necessary. Check caused by pitting of the points, wear in the
carefully for hairline cracks and signs of Contact breaker gap (dwell distributor shaft or its bushes, or difference in
arcing. Make sure that the HT leads are angle) height of any of the cam peaks.
reinstalled in their correct firing order. 1 Access to the distributor is improved by 7 The dwell angle should be checked with a
6 Check that all HT and LT electrical leads are removing the air cleaner unit. dwell meter connected in accordance with the
correctly routed and clear of all moving or hot 2 Prise down the distributor cap retaining maker’s instructions. Refer to the Specifica-
engine components. Ensure that all lead clips or remove the securing screws, as tions for the correct dwell angle. If the dwell
connections are secure and where applicable, appropriate. Remove the distributor cap and angle is too large, increase the points gap. If it
protected. rotor. is too small, reduce the gap.

13.2c Pull the HT lead connector - not the 13.3 Inspect each HT lead end ferrule for 15.4 Checking the contact breaker points
lead corrosion gap using a feeler blade
1•12 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

15.10 Ignition timing marks - mechanical 15.14 Distributor clamp plate pinch-bolt 16.5 Setting throttle damper clearance
ignition system (arrowed) using a feeler blade (arrowed) -
A Crankshaft pulley notch Ford VV carburettor
specified mark on the scale. If the marks are
B Timing cover scale not in alignment, release the distributor clamp running during the adjustment procedure,
pinch-bolt (see illustration) and turn the disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
8 The dwell angle should always be adjusted
distributor in whichever direction is necessary thermal switch (located in the thermostat
before checking and adjusting the ignition
to align the marks. housing) and bridge the two contacts in the
timing, as follows:
15 Retighten the pinch-bolt, switch off the plug with a short length of wire.
Ignition timing engine, remove the timing light and reconnect 3 Start the engine and increase its speed to
9 Before checking the timing, check and the vacuum pipe. 3200 ± 150 rpm by means of the idle speed
adjust the dwell angle with the engine at 16 It may now be necessary to check and adjustment screw. When the speed has
normal operating temperature. adjust the engine idle speed if the distributor stabilised, switch off the engine.
10 Increase the contrast of the notch in the setting has to be varied to any extent. 4 Rotate the secondary throttle lever
crankshaft pulley and the appropriate mark on clockwise to remove any play between the
the timing index (refer to Specifications) by primary and secondary throttle levers, but
16 Throttle damper operation
applying quick-drying white paint (see
illustration).
11 Connect a timing light (stroboscope) in
check 2 ensure that the primary lever does not move.
5 Using a feeler blade, unscrew the damper
until a clearance of 0.1 to 0.3 mm exists
accordance with the manufacturer’s between the damper plunger and the
instructions. 1 To check the operation of the throttle secondary throttle lever (see illustration).
12 Start the engine and allow it to idle. damper fitted to models equipped with a Ford Hold the damper in this position and tighten
13 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the VV carburettor, proceed as follows: the locknut.
distributor and plug the pipe with a piece of rod. 2 Warm up the engine to normal operating 6 Start the engine and return the idle speed to
14 If the timing light is now directed at the temperature, then switch off. Connect a the specified rpm. Disconnect the tachometer
engine timing marks, the pulley notch will tachometer in accordance with the and bridging wire, refit the multi-plug, then
appear to be stationary and opposite the manufacturer’s instructions. To keep the fan refit the air cleaner.

12 000 Mile (20 000 Km) / 12 Month Service

with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied
17 Battery terminal check
1 with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution
get inside the battery.
2 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
18 Engine valve clearance
check - OHV engines 2
before reconnecting them (see illustration).
Reconnect and tighten the positive (live) lead
To keep corrosion to a first, followed by the negative (earth) lead. Do When checking valve
minimum, coat the battery not overtighten. clearances, it will be easier
terminals with petroleum to turn the engine by hand if
jelly or a proprietary anti- the spark plugs are removed
corrosive compound. but take care not to allow dirt to enter
the spark plug holes.
Warning: Before carrying out
any work on the vehicle battery,
read through the precautions 1 This operation should be carried out with
given in “Safety first!” at the the engine cold and the air cleaner, spark
beginning of this manual. plugs and rocker cover removed.
2 Using a ring spanner or socket on the
1 To clean the battery terminals disconnect crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft in a
them, negative earth first, after having first clockwise direction until No 1 piston is at top
removed the cover (where fitted). Use a wire dead centre (TDC) on its compression stroke.
brush or abrasive paper to clean the 17.2 Protect each battery terminal before This can be verified by checking that the
terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated reconnection pulley and timing cover marks are in
 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

5 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust

valves are different (see Specifications). Use a
feeler blade of the appropriate thickness to
check each clearance between the end of the
valve stem and the rocker arm. The blade
should be a stiff sliding fit. If it is not, turn the
adjuster bolt with a ring spanner. These bolts
are of stiff thread type and require no locking
nut. Turn the bolt clockwise to reduce the
clearance and anti-clockwise to increase it
(see illustration).
6 Refit the rocker cover, spark plugs and air
cleaner on completion of adjustment.
18.5 Adjusting a valve clearance - OHV 19.5 Handbrake adjustment indicator
plunger
19 Handbrake check
alignment and that the valves of No 4 cylinder
are rocking. When the valves are rocking, this
2 together is between 0.5 and 3.0 mm then
adjustment is satisfactory. This should give
three to six clicks (notches) of handbrake
means that the slightest rotation of the application movement. If there is no
crankshaft pulley in either direction will cause measurable plunger movement or if the total
one rocker arm to move up and the other to
Pre-September 1985 models
measurement exceeds that specified adjust
move down. 1 Adjustment of the handbrake is normally as follows.
3 Numbering from the thermostat housing automatic by means of the self-adjusting 7 Loosen the handbrake cable locknut, then
end of the cylinder head, the valves are mechanism working on the rear brake shoes. rotate the adjuster sleeve (see illustration) so
identified as follows: 2 However, due to cable stretch, checking of that the plungers can just rotate and the total
Valve No Cylinder no the handbrake adjustment is recommended. movement of both plungers is as specified
1 - Exhaust 1 Adjustment must be carried out if the above.
2 - Inlet 1 movement of the lever becomes excessive 8 Hand tighten the locknut against the sleeve
3 - Exhaust 2 (more than six notches). Proceed as follows: so that two engagement clicks are felt, then
4 - Inlet 2 3 Chock the front wheels then fully release further tighten another two clicks using a
5 - Exhaust 3 the handbrake. suitable wrench. 1
6 - Inlet 3 4 Raise and support the vehicle at the rear
7 - Exhaust 4 with safety stands. Models from September 1985
8 - Inlet 4 5 On adjustment check that the plunger 9 Proceed as above, noting that since
4 Adjust the valve clearances by following the protrudes from each rear brake backplate September 1985 a locking pin has been fitted
sequence given in the following table. Turn (see illustration), their respective length of to the cable adjuster abutment bracket to lock
the crankshaft pulley 180° (half a turn) after movement indicating the handbrake the adjuster sleeve and locknut together.
adjusting each pair: adjustment condition. Before checking their 10 Should it be necessary to adjust the
Valves rocking Valves to adjust movement (stroke) length, firmly apply the cable, the locking pin must be removed by
7 and 8 1 (Exhaust), 2 (Inlet) footbrake to ensure that the automatic pulling it out using pliers (see illustration).
5 and 6 3 (Exhaust), 4 (Inlet) adjuster mechanism is fully actuated. After adjustment a new nylon locking pin must
1 and 2 7 (Exhaust), 8 (Inlet) 6 Now check the plunger stroke movement. If be used and can be fitted by carefully tapping
3 and 4 5 (Exhaust), 6 (Inlet) the total movement of both sides added it into place.

19.7 Handbrake cable assembly

A Primary cable C Adjuster sleeve E Secondary cable 19.10 Removing the handbrake cable adjuster locking pin
B Equaliser D Locknut
1•14 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
unscrew and remove the plugs. Cover each
exposed spark plug hole with a clean rag to
prevent the ingress of any foreign matter.
6 Before fitting new spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves are tight.
7 Check the electrode gap of each plug with
a feeler blade of the specified thickness and if
necessary, bend the outer electrode with a
proper spark plug gapping tool to set the gap
to the specified clearance.
8 Coat the threads of each plug with suitable
anti-seize compound, taking care not to
contaminate the electrodes.
20.2 Auxiliary drivebelt tension checking 20.5 Alternator adjuster and mounting 9 Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then
point - OHV bolts - OHV tighten them to the specified torque. Do not
A Adjuster link clamp bolt exceed the torque figure.
10 Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
20 Auxiliary drivebelt check
2
B Adjuster link-to-block bolt
C Lower front mounting bolt plugs and where necessary, refit the air
D Lower rear mounting bolt cleaner assembly.

Inspection
1 Check the full length of the drivebelt for
21 Spark plug renewal
1
22 Gearbox oil level check
1
cracks and deterioration. It will be necessary
to turn the engine in order to check that Caution: Gearbox oil can foam when hot
portion of the drivebelt is in contact with the and give a false level reading. Allow the
pulleys. Number each HT lead using gearbox to cool before checking the oil
2 Check that the total deflection of the sticky tape or paint before level.
auxiliary drivebelt is 4.0 mm at the mid point removal so as to avoid Note: Regular oil changing is not specified by
of its longest run (see illustration). confusion when refitting. the manufacturers but the gearbox oil can be
3 Note that if the belt is too slack, it will slip drained if necessary (prior to removal of the
and soon become glazed or burnt and the 1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is unit or after traversing a flooded road for
coolant pump (OHV) and alternator will not vital for the correct running and efficiency of example) by removing the selector shaft
perform correctly, with consequent the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted locking mechanism (see illustration).
overheating of the engine and low battery are of the type appropriate for the engine. 1 The following procedure should be adopted
charge. If the belt is too tight, the bearings in 2 Make sure that the ignition is switched off when checking the oil level on all gearbox
the alternator and/or coolant pump will soon before inspecting the HT leads to see if they types.
be damaged. carry their cylinder numbers - if not, number 2 Ensure that the car is standing on level
4 If necessary, renew or tension the belt as each lead using sticky tape or paint. ground and the gearbox is cool.
follows: 3 Where necessary, for improved access, 3 Unscrew the filler plug from the front face of
remove the air cleaner assembly. the gearbox. The plug is of socket-headed
Renewal 4 Disconnect the leads from the plugs by type and a suitable key will be required for
5 To remove a belt, slacken the alternator pulling on the connectors, not the leads. removal (see illustration).
mounting bolts and the bolts on the adjuster 5 Clean the area around each spark plug 4 With the plug removed, check the oil level.
link (see illustration), push the alternator in using a small brush, then using a plug To do this accurately, make up an oil level
towards the engine and slip the belt from the spanner (preferably with a rubber insert), check dipstick from a short length of welding
rod or similar material. Make a 90° bend in the
pulleys.
rod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mm
6 Fit the belt by slipping it over the pulley rims
increments. The dipstick is then inserted
while the alternator is still loose on its
through the filler plug orifice so that the
mountings. Never be tempted to remove or fit
unmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice
a belt by prising it over a pulley without
releasing the alternator. Either the pulley will
be damaged or the alternator or coolant pump
will be distorted.
Tensioning
7 To change the belt tension, pull the
alternator away from the engine until the belt
is fairly taut and nip up the adjuster strap bolt.
A little trial and error may be required to
obtain the correct tension.
8 Do not lever against the body of the
alternator to tension the belt or damage may 22.0 Remove the selector shaft locking
occur. mechanism to drain the gearbox oil
9 Recheck the tension of the drivebelt after A Selector shaft B Spring 22.3 Gearbox oil filler plug location
the engine has been run for ten minutes. cap nut C Interlock pin (arrowed)
 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

23.3 Contact breaker points removal 24.3 Inspect the steering rack bellows

A LT lead connector C Vacuum advance strut

B Securing screw circlip

threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil. baseplate with rag before starting to remove flexible bushes for wear and check the torque
Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level of the screw. wrench settings of all bolts and nuts.
oil. 5 With the screw removed, lift out the contact 3 Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all
5 On gearboxes manufactured up to August breaker assembly. steering and suspension components for
1985 the oil level must be maintained between 6 Fit and adjust the new contact breaker set, wear, damage and fluid leakage. Pay
5 and 10 mm below the lower edge of the filler leaving the securing screw loose until the gap particular attention to dust covers and gaiters
plug hole. has been set. (see illustration), which if renewed promptly
6 On gearboxes manufactured from 7 Apply a little high melting-point grease to when damaged can save further damage to
September 1985 onwards the oil level must the distributor cam. (Grease may be supplied the component protected.
be maintained between 0 and 5 mm below the with the new contact breaker set.) 4 At the same intervals, check the front 1
lower edge of the filler plug hole. 8 Refit the rotor arm and the distributor cap suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
7 To determine the date of gearbox and reconnect the spark plug leads in their levering up the arms (see illustration).
manufacture, locate the aluminium build code previously noted location. Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5
tag which will be attached to one of the 9 Check and adjust the dwell angle and the mm. The track rod end balljoints can be
gearbox housing retaining bolts. The gearbox ignition timing. checked in a similar manner, or by observing
part number is stamped on the tag and if the them whilst an assistant rocks the steering
last letter of the part number suffix is a “D”, wheel back and forth. If the lower arm balljoint
then the gearbox is of the early type. If the last
letter of the suffix is an “E”, then the gearbox
is of the later type.
24 Steering and suspension
security check 1 is worn, the complete lower arm must be
renewed.
5 Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by
8 Top-up the gearbox with the specified type spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any
of oil if necessary until the level is correct for 1 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing roughness or excessive noise indicates worn
the gearbox type (see “Lubricants and fluids”). the vehicle up and down at each corner in bearings, which must be renewed, as no
Take care not to overfill the unit as this can turn. When released, it should come to rest adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any
lead to excessive heat build-up, increased within one complete oscillation. Continued wear will be evident unless the vehicle has
leakage and impaired gear changing. movement, or squeaking and groaning noises covered a very high mileage. It should be
9 On completion, refit the filler plug. from the shock absorber suggests that noted that it is normal for the bearings to
renewal is required. exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as
2 With the weight of the vehicle on its wheel rock at the wheel rim.
23 Contact breaker point
renewal and distributor 3 roadwheels, inspect all of the suspension

lubrication - OHV engines

1 If necessary, remove the air cleaner

25 Underbody inspection
1
assembly to allow ready access to the
distributor. Identify and disconnect the leads 1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based
from the spark plugs, prise down the underbody protective coating, have the whole
distributor cap clips or remove the screws, of the underframe of the vehicle steam-
and place the cap and leads to one side. cleaned, engine compartment included, so
2 Remove the rotor arm. that a thorough inspection can be carried out
3 Pull off the contact breaker LT lead from the to see what minor repairs and renovations are
points (see illustration). necessary.
4 Unscrew and remove the screw from the 2 Steam-cleaning is available at many
fixed contact arm. Take great care not to drop garages and is necessary for the removal of
the screw into the interior of the distributor: if 24.4 Apply leverage to check for excessive the accumulation of oily grime which
necessary, cover the openings in the balljoint wear sometimes is allowed to become thick in
1•16 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

26.1 Bend flexible brake hoses to check 28.3 Oil filler cap and breather hoses 28.4 Clean emission control orifice in
for splitting and decay solvent - OHV shown
certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are Steering and suspension lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
not available, there are some excellent grease on a slope.
3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
solvents available, which can be brush- suspension, handling or road “feel”. 14 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are as follows. With the engine off, depress the
3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a pit, no unusual vibrations or noises. footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
4 Using a strong light, work around the check for any suspension noises when should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for cornering, or when driving over bumps. pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer
Drivetrain to run for at least two minutes, and then
to Chapter 11 for details of repair.
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
6 Check the performance of the engine,
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
26 Brake pipe and hose check
1 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and transmission.
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
from the servo as the pedal is depressed.
After about four or five applications, no further
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
when idling, and that there is no hesitation feel considerably firmer.
1 Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for when accelerating.
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses 9 Where applicable, check that the clutch
28 Crankcase ventilation
for cracks, splits or “ballooning” (see
illustration). Have an assistant depress the
brake pedal (ignition on) and inspect the hose
action is smooth and progressive, that the
drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
system check 1
and pipe unions for leaks. Renew any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
defective item without delay. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged 1 Inspect the crankcase ventilation system
smoothly, without noise, and that the gear for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can
lever action is not abnormally vague or cause a build-up of crankcase pressure,
27 Road test
1 “notchy”.
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
which in turn can cause oil leaks.
2 Inspect each hose for distortion, perishing
and correct routing.
system 3 Clean the oil filler cap with solvent and
Instruments and electrical 11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to check that the vent hose connections are not
equipment one side when braking, and that the wheels blocked (see illustration).
1 Check the operation of all instruments and do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 4 Clean the emission control orifice located in
electrical equipment. 12 Check that there is no vibration through the oil filler assembly with solvent (see
2 Make sure that all instruments read the steering when braking. illustration).
correctly, switch on all electrical equipment in 13 Check that the handbrake operates
turn to check that it functions properly. correctly, without excessive movement of the
 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years 1•17

24 000 Mile (40 000 Km) / every 2 years

29 Air cleaner temperature
control check 2
Note: A vacuum pump will be required for this
check if the heat sensor or diaphragm unit is
at fault.
1 The air cleaner temperature control unit can
be checked for operation whilst the engine is
cold. Look into the air inlet spout and check
that the air control flap valve is in the shut
position (see illustration).
2 Now start the engine and allow it to idle. 30.1 Detach hose downwards for access
The flap valve should open fully to allow the to crankcase emission filter in air cleaner
warm air to be drawn into the cleaner unit body
from the exhaust manifold ducting. As the
engine warms up to its normal operating
temperature the flap valve should
progressively close to allow cooler air to enter
the cleaner unit.
3 If the valve is stuck in the shut position,
check the vacuum lines for condition and
security. If these are in order, then the heat 29.1 Air cleaner inlet sensor and
sensor or diaphragm unit is at fault. Proceed diaphragm flap valve operating modes
as follows: 1 Sensor cold 2 Sensor hot
4 Detach the diaphragm-to-heat sensor 2 Withdraw the used filter and fit a new item.
vacuum pipe (at the sensor end) and connect Ensure that the hose is securely reconnected.
up a vacuum pump to the diaphragm. Pump
1
and apply a vacuum up to 100 mm of mercury 31.1 Remove the air cleaner lid securing
and retain this whilst checking the air flap.
5 If the flap opens, the heat sensor is
defective and must be renewed, but if it
31 Air cleaner element renewal
1 screws . . .

remains shut then the diaphragm or control

flap is faulty. 1 Renew the air cleaner element by first
6 Disconnect the vacuum pump and removing the air cleaner unit lid. To do this,
reconnect the vacuum pipe to the sensor unit. undo and remove the retaining screws and
prise free the lid from the retaining clips
around its periphery (see illustration).
30 Emission control filter
element renewal - CVH
engines
1 2 Remove and discard the paper element and
wipe out the air cleaner casing (see
illustration).
3 Place the new element in position and refit
1 Gain access to the emission control filter by the lid.
detaching the hose from the air cleaner unit
(see illustration). 31.2 . . . to expose the air cleaner element

36 000 Mile (60 000 Km) / every 3 years

2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
32 Brake hydraulic system seal
and hose renewal 3 33 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
2 support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheels.
3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the 1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will
the free end of each tube in a jar.
brake system seals and hoses, then renew be needed. A considerable quantity of
5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
defective items whilst referring to the relevant hydraulic fluid will be required - probably the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
Sections of Chapter 9. about 2 litres. to allow the master cylinder to refill.
1•18 Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
6 When air emerges from both bleed screws, 12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7 Depress the caliper piston, using a
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear
of the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gently in order to move the
caliper piston out.
34 Timing belt renewal - CVH
engines 3
purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a 13 With the pedal held depressed, slacken Timing belt renewal is recommended for
tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and CVH engines. Refer to Chapter 2, Part B for
caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed the appropriate renewal procedure.
the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
from the bleed screw again. can now be released.
8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9 Repeat the purging operation on the right-
14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-
hand brake pad and caliper.
15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
35 Front wheel alignment check
3
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand Due to the need for precision equipment to
bleed screw yet. caliper. accurately measure the small angles of the
10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid. 16 Bleed the rear brakes as described in steering and suspension settings appertaining
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand Chapter 9. to front wheel alignment, it is preferable to
caliper at least 300 mm above the level of the 17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle leave this work to a specialist. However, if you
bleed screw. and tighten the wheel nuts. wish to check front wheel alignment yourself,
11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedal 18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads refer to the information given in Chapter 10.
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the up to the discs, then make a final check of the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
end of a downstroke. reservoir cap.

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

however, and rust or sludge is evident at the coolant drained from the tank. If the
36 Engine coolant renewal
1 draining, then the system should be flushed
through with a cold water hose inserted into
the thermostat housing (thermostat removed)
until the water flows clean from the
interior of the tank is dirty, remove it and
thoroughly clean it out. Evidence of oil within
the expansion tank may indicate a leaking
cylinder head gasket.
disconnected bottom hose and the radiator.
Draining If, after a reasonable period, the water still Refilling
1 It is preferable to drain the system when the does not run clear the radiator can be flushed 9 Reconnect the radiator and expansion tank
coolant is cold. If it must be drained when hot, with a good proprietary cleaning agent. hoses, and refit the cylinder block drain plug
release the pressure cap very slowly having 6 In severe cases, the drain plug on the (OHV), or connect the bottom hose (CVH), as
first covered it with a cloth to avoid any cylinder block of OHV models can be applicable.
possibility of scalding. unscrewed to assist sludge removal and 10 Using the specified antifreeze (see
2 Set the heater control to maximum heat flushing (see illustration). On CVH models “Lubricants and fluids”), fill the system via the
position. there is no drain plug on the cylinder block so expansion tank, until the coolant level reaches
3 Place a container under the radiator and you will need to detach the bottom hose. the “maximum” mark. Allow time for air in the
release the bottom hose or, where fitted, 7 If the radiator is suspected of being system to bubble through and add more
unscrew the radiator drain plug and allow the clogged, remove it and reverse flush it with a coolant if necessary. Repeat until the level
system to drain into the container (see cold water hose. The normal coolant flow is does not drop and refit the cap.
illustrations). from left to right (from the thermostat housing 11 Start the engine and run it to normal
to the radiator) through the matrix and out of operating temperature. Once it has cooled,
Flushing the opposite side. check and carry out any final topping-up to
4 Provided the coolant is of the specified 8 When the coolant is being changed, it is the expansion tank.
type, then no flushing should be necessary. recommended that the overflow pipe is
5 Where the system has been neglected disconnected from the expansion tank and

36.3a The radiator drain plug (arrowed) 36.3b The radiator bottom hose clamp 36.6 The cylinder block drain plug
(arrowed) - OHV
 2A•1

Chapter 2 Part A:
OHV engine repair procedures
Contents
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Oil filter and pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Operations only possible with engine removed from vehicle . . . . . . . .3
Engine - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Operations possible without removing engine from vehicle . . . . . . . . .2
Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Engine - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Rocker gear - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .11 Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine/transmission - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Specifications
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, overhead valve, water-cooled

1.0 litre 1.1 litre

Firing order (No 1 at timing cover end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 1-2-4-3
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 mm 73.96 mm
Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.70 mm 64.98 mm 2A
Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 957 cc 1117 cc
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 : 1 9.5 : 1
Compression pressure at starter speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 11.5 kgf/cm2 13.3 to 15.3 kgf/cm2
Idle speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 750 to 850
Maximum continuous engine speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5950 5450
Engine output (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 kW at 5750 rpm 37 kW at 5000 rpm
Engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.9 kgf m at 3700 rpm 8.4 kgf m at 2700 rpm

Cylinder block
Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Cylinder bore diameter:
Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.940 to 73.950 mm
Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.950 to 73.960 mm
Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.960 to 73.970 mm
Standard (4) and service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.970 to 73.980 mm
Oversizes:
0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.500 to 74.510 mm
1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.000 to 75.010 mm
Main bearing bore:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.623 to 60.636 mm
Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.003 to 61.016 mm
Camshaft bearing bore:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.888 to 42.918 mm
Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.396 to 43.420 mm
Central main bearing width (less thrustwashers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.04 to 22.10 mm

Crankshaft
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.072 to 0.285 mm
Main journal diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.990 to 57.000 mm
Yellow dot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.980 to 56.990 mm
0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.726 to 56.746 mm
0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.472 to 56.492 mm
0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.218 to 56.238 mm
2A•2 OHV engine repair procedures

Crankshaft (continued)
Main bearing shell width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.2 to 21.6 mm
Main bearing shell play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.009 to 0.046 mm
Crankpin (big-end) diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.99 to 43.01 mm
0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.74 to 42.76 mm
0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.49 to 42.51 mm
0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.24 to 42.26 mm
Thrustwasher thicknesses:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.80 to 2.85 mm
Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.99 to 3.04 mm
Camshaft
Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Camshaft bearing diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.615 to 39.635 mm
Bearing bush inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.662 to 39.682 mm
Camshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.457 to 4.508 mm
Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.062 to 0.193 mm
Cam lift:
Inlet valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.300 mm
Exhaust valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.300 mm
Cam length (heel to toe):
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.288 to 32.516 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.615 to 32.846 mm
Pistons
Diameter:
Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.910 to 73.920 mm
Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.920 to 73.930 mm
Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.930 to 73.940 mm
Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.940 to 73.950 mm
Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.930 to 73.955 mm
0.5 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.460 to 74.485 mm
1.0 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.960 to 74.985 mm
Piston-to-bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.050 mm
Piston ring gap (fitted):
Top and 2nd rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm
Bottom ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.40 mm
Bottom (oil control) ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . In line with gudgeon pin
2nd ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90° to oil control ring gap
Top ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180° to oil control ring gap
Gudgeon pins
Pin length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.6 to 55.4 mm
Pin diameters:
White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm
Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm
Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm
Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm
Connecting rod interference at 21°C (70°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mm
Pin-to-piston interference at 21°C (70°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mm
Connecting rods
Big-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.685 to 46.705 mm
Small-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.589 to 20.609 mm
Bearing shell inside diameter (fitted):
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.016 to 43.050 mm
0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.768 to 42.802 mm
0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.518 to 42.552 mm
0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.268 to 42.302 mm
1.016 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.018 to 42.052 mm
Journal-to-bearing shell clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm
Cylinder head
Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°
Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.75 mm
Lower correction angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30°
Upper correction angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°
Upper correction angle - service cutter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75°
Valve stem bore (inlet and exhaust):
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.907 to 7.938 mm
0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.288 to 8.319 mm
 OHV engine repair procedures 2A•3

Valves
Clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Servicing Specifications in Chapter 1
Tappet diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.081 to 13.094 mm
Tappet clearance in cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.25 to 20.75 mm
Valve spring free length (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 mm
Valve lift (excluding clearance) (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.367 mm
Valve head diameter:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.89 to 33.15 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.01 to 29.27 mm
Valve stem diameter:
Inlet valves:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.868 to 7.886 mm
0.076 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.944 to 7.962 mm
0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.249 to 8.267 mm
Exhaust valves:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.846 to 7.864 mm
0.076 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.922 to 7.940 mm
0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.227 to 8.245 mm
Valve stem-to-guide clearance:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.021 to 0.070 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.043 to 0.092 mm
Valve timing:
Inlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14° BTDC
Inlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46° ABDC
Exhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65° BBDC
Exhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11° ATDC
Lubrication system
Minimum oil pressure at 80°C (175°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 kgf/cm2 at 750 rpm
Warning light operates at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.32 to 0.53 kgf/cm2
Relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.41 to 2.75 kgf/cm2
Oil pump clearances:
Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.14 to 0.26 mm
Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mm
Rotors-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft 2A
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70
Connecting rod (big-end) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 23
Rear oil seal retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50
Chain tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14
Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 40
Coolant pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30
Fuel pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Sump fixing bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8
Oil pressure sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Coolant temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 31
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 65
Stage 4 (after 15 minutes delay) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 80
Rocker cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Exhaust manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12
Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14
Carburettor flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14
Thermostat housing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14
Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30
Transmission oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
2A•4 OHV engine repair procedures

1 General information 4 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting 3
The engine is of an overhead valve type
based upon the “Kent” design used in many Removal
earlier Ford models. It is mounted transversely 1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
at the front of the vehicle together with the preliminary operations described in
transmission to form a combined power train. paragraphs 2 to 15.
The engine is a water-cooled, four-cylinder 2 Open the bonnet and fit protective covers
in-line type, having overhead valves operated to the front wing upper surfaces.
by tappets, pushrods and rocker arms. The 3 Disconnect the battery earth strap. It is as
camshaft is located within the cylinder block well to remove the battery, so that no metal 4.8 Disconnect the throttle cable and
and chain-driven from the crankshaft. A gear objects are placed across its terminals. bracket
on the camshaft drives the oil pump and the 4 Remove the air cleaner unit.
distributor, whilst a cam operates the fuel 5 Drain the cooling system. Note that the 19 Withdraw the pushrods, keeping them in
pump lever. coolant should have an antifreeze solution mix their originally fitted sequence. A simple way
The cylinder head is of crossflow type, and can be used again, so drain into a to do this is to punch holes in a piece of card
having the exhaust manifold mounted on the suitable container for re-use. and number them 1 to 8 from the thermostat
opposite side to the inlet manifold. The 6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat housing end of the cylinder head (see
crankshaft runs in three main bearings, with housing. illustration).
endfloat controlled by semi-circular 7 Detach the choke cable. 20 Remove the spark plugs.
thrustwashers located on either side of the 8 Release the throttle cable from the 21 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts
centre main bearing. carburettor operating lever by moving the progressively in the reverse order to that given
The oil pump is mounted externally on the spring clip and removing the bracket fixing for tightening. Remove the cylinder head.
cylinder block just below the distributor, and bolt (see illustration).
the full-flow type oil filter is screwed directly 9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes from
into the oil pump. Tap a stuck cylinder head
the carburettor. free with a wooden mallet.
10 Disconnect the breather hose from the Do not insert a lever into the
2 Operations possible without inlet manifold. head joint as this may
11 On vehicles with servo-assisted brakes,
removing engine from damage the mating faces.
disconnect the vacuum hose from the inlet
vehicle manifold.
12 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
1 The following work can be carried out
plugs. Refitting
without having to remove the engine:
13 Disconnect the electrical leads from the Caution: Never use jointing compound
a) Cylinder head - removal and refitting
temperature sender unit, inlet manifold, when refitting the cylinder head and
b) Valve clearances - adjustment
carburettor and radiator fan thermal switch. gasket.
c) Sump - removal and refitting
14 Unbolt and remove the heated air box 22 Before refitting the cylinder head, remove
d) Rocker gear - overhaul
from the exhaust manifold (where fitted) (see every particle of carbon, old gasket and dirt
e) Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal
f) Pistons/connecting rods - removal and illustration). from the mating surfaces of the cylinder head
refitting 15 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from and block. Do not let the removed material
g) Engine mountings - renewal the manifold by unbolting the connecting drop into the cylinder bores or waterways: if it
h) Oil filter - removal and refitting flanges. Support the exhaust system at the does, remove it. Normally, when a cylinder
i) Oil pump - removal and refitting front end. head is removed, the head is decarbonised
16 Pull free and remove the oil filler cap with and the valves ground in to remove all traces
breather hoses. of carbon.
3 Operations only possible 17 Extract the four screws and remove the 23 Clean the threads of the cylinder head
with engine removed from rocker cover. bolts and mop out oil from the bolt holes in
vehicle 18 Unscrew and remove the four fixing bolts the cylinder block. In extreme cases, screwing
and lift away the rocker shaft assembly from a bolt into an oil-filled hole can cause the
1 The following work should be carried out the cylinder head. block to fracture due to hydraulic pressure.
only after the engine has been removed from
the vehicle.
a) *Crankshaft main bearings - renewal
b) Crankshaft - removal and refitting
c) **Flywheel - removal and refitting
d) **Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal
e) Camshaft - removal and refitting
f) Timing gears and chain - removal and
refitting
2 Although it is possible to undertake the job
marked * without removing the engine, and
those marked ** by removing the
transmission, such work is not recommended
and is unlikely to save much time over that
required to withdraw the complete engine/ 4.14 Heated air box on exhaust manifold 4.19 Withdraw the pushrods
transmission.
 OHV engine repair procedures 2A•5

4.27 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 4.29 Refit the rocker shaft assembly - engaging the adjuster balls
into the pushrod caps (sockets)
24 If there is any doubt about the condition of torque. They are of tapered seat type, no 4 Extract the sump securing bolts and
the inlet or exhaust gaskets, unbolt the sealing washers being used. remove the sump. If it is stuck, prise it gently
manifolds and fit new ones to perfectly clean 34 Connect the exhaust downpipe and fit the with a screwdriver, but do not use excessive
mating surfaces. heated air box. leverage. If it is very tight, cut round the
25 Locate a new cylinder head gasket on the 35 Reconnect all electrical leads, vacuum gasket joint using a sharp knife.
cylinder block, making quite sure that the bolt and coolant hoses.
holes, coolant passages and lubrication holes 36 Reconnect the cables. Refit the battery (if
Refitting
are correctly aligned. removed) and reconnect the battery terminals. 5 Before refitting the sump, remove the front
26 Lower the cylinder head carefully into 37 Fit the air cleaner. and rear sealing strips and gaskets. Clean the
position on the block. 38 Refill the cooling system. mating surfaces of the sump and cylinder
27 Screw in all the bolts finger tight and then block.
tighten them in four stages, in the sequence 6 Stick new gaskets into position on the
shown (see illustration) to the specified torque.
28 Refit the pushrods in their original order.
29 Lower the rocker shaft assembly into
5 Valve clearances -
adjustment 2 block using thick grease to retain them, then
install new sealing strips into their grooves so
that they overlap the gaskets (see
illustration).
2A
position, making sure that the rocker
adjusting screws engage in the sockets at the Refer to Chapter 1, Section 18. 7 Before offering up the sump, check that the
ends of the pushrods (see illustration). gap between the sump and oil baffle is
30 Screw in the rocker pedestal bolts finger between 2.0 and 3.8 mm (see illustration).
tight. At this stage, some of the rocker arms
will be applying pressure to the ends of the
valve stems and some of the rocker pedestals
6 Sump - removal and refitting
2 8 Screw in the sump bolts and tighten in
three stages to the specified torque (see
illustration):
Stage 1 - in alphabetical order
will not be in contact with the cylinder head.
The pedestals will be pulled down, however, Stage 2 - in numerical order
when the bolts are tightened to the specified Removal Stage 3 - in alphabetical order
torque, which should now be done. 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead and drain 9 It is important to follow this procedure in
31 Adjust the valve clearances. the engine oil. order to provide sealing against oil leakage.
32 Refit the rocker cover. If the gasket is in 2 Unbolt and withdraw the starter motor. 10 Refit the clutch cover plate and the starter
anything but perfect condition, renew it. Support the motor to avoid straining the motor and reconnect the battery.
33 Fit the oil filler cap and breather hose and electrical wiring. 11 Refill the engine with the correct grade
the spark plugs. Tighten these to the specified 3 Unbolt and remove the clutch cover plate. and quantity of oil.

6.6 Sump gaskets and sealing strips 6.7 Sump-to-baffle plate must be as shown 6.8 Sump retaining bolt tightening
A Timing cover end B Flywheel end A Sump B Baffle sequence - arrow indicates front of engine
2A•6 OHV engine repair procedures

7.3 Rocker components 7.4 Flat on rocker shaft (arrowed) and

retaining pin
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley. This should
7 Rocker gear - dismantling
and reassembly 2 come out using the hands but, if it is tight,
prise it carefully with two levers placed at
opposite sides under the pulley flange.
5 Using a suitable claw tool, prise out the
1 With the rocker assembly removed, extract defective seal and wipe out the seat (see
the split pin from one end of the rocker shaft. illustration).
2 Take off the spring and plain washers from 6 Install the new seal using a suitable
the end of the shaft. distance piece, the pulley and its bolt to draw
3 Slide off the rocker arms, support pedestals it into position. If it is tapped into position, the
and coil springs, keeping them in their seal may be distorted or the timing cover
originally fitted order (see illustration). Clean fractured.
out the oil holes in the shaft. 7 When the seal is fully seated, remove the
4 Apply engine oil to the rocker shaft before 7.5 Rocker shaft front end plug (A), flat (B)
pulley and bolt, apply grease to the seal
reassembling and make sure that the flat on and oil hole (C)
rubbing surface of the pulley, install it and
the end of the shaft is to the same side as the
rocker arm adjuster screws (see illustration). tighten the securing bolt to the specified 3 Turn the crankshaft by means of the pulley
This is essential for proper lubrication of the torque. bolt until the big-end cap bolts for No 1
components. 8 Refit the clutch cover or starter motor. connecting rod are in their most accessible
5 If a new rocker shaft is being fitted, check 9 Fit and tension the drivebelt and reconnect position. Unscrew and remove the bolts and
that the end plug is located correctly (see the battery. the big-end cap complete with bearing shell. If
illustration). the cap is difficult to remove, tap it off with a
plastic-faced hammer.

8 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal 3
9 Pistons/connecting rods -
removal and refitting 3 4 If the bearing shells are to be used again,
keep the shell taped to its cap.
5 Feel the top of the cylinder bore for a wear
ridge. If one is detected, it should be scraped
off before the piston/rod is pushed out of the
1 Disconnect the battery earth cable.
Removal top of the cylinder block. Take care when doing
2 Slacken the alternator mounting and 1 Remove the cylinder head and the sump. this not to score the cylinder bore surfaces.
adjuster bolts and after pushing the alternator Do not remove the oil pick-up filter or pipe, 6 Push the piston/connecting rod out of the
in towards the engine, slip off the drivebelt. which is an interference fit. block, retaining the bearing shell with the rod
3 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley 2 Note the location numbers stamped on the if it is to be used again.
bolt. To prevent the crankshaft turning while connecting rod big-ends and caps, and to 7 Repeat the operations on the remaining
the bolt is being released, jam the teeth of the which side they face (see illustration). No 1 piston/rod assemblies.
starter ring gear on the flywheel after assembly is nearest the timing cover and the
assembly numbers are towards the camshaft
Refitting
removing the clutch cover plate or starter
motor for access. side of the engine. 8 To install a piston/rod assembly, have the
piston ring gaps staggered as shown (see
illustration). Oil the rings and fit a piston ring
compressor.

8.5 Prising out the crankshaft front oil seal 9.2 Connecting rod big-end numbers 9.8 Piston ring end gap positioning
diagram
 OHV engine repair procedures 2A•7

9 Oil the cylinder bores.

10 Wipe out the bearing shell seat in the
connecting rod and insert the shell.
11 Lower the piston/rod assembly into the
11 Engine/transmission
mountings - removal and
refitting
3
cylinder bore until the base of the piston ring
compressor stands squarely on the top of the 1 The engine mountings can be removed if
block (see illustration). the weight of the engine/transmission is first
12 Check that the directional arrow on the taken by one of the three following methods:
piston crown faces towards the timing cover a) Support the engine under the sump
end of the engine and then apply the wooden using a jack and a block of wood.
handle of a hammer to the piston crown. b) Attach a hoist to the engine lifting lugs.
Strike the head of the hammer sharply to drive c) Make up a bar with end pieces which will
the piston into the cylinder bore. engage in the water channels at the sides of
9.11 Installing a piston/connecting rod the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable
13 Oil the crankpin and draw the connecting
hook and chain connected to the engine
rod down to engage with the crankshaft.
lifting lugs, the weight of the engine can be
Check that the bearing shell is still in position 2 Using a suitable removal tool (strap wrench taken off the mountings (see illustration).
in the connecting rod. or similar), unscrew and remove the oil filter
14 Wipe the bearing shell seat in the big-end cartridge and discard it. Right-hand engine mounting
cap clean and insert the bearing shell. 3 Unscrew the three mounting bolts and 2 Unscrew and remove the mounting side
15 Fit the cap, screw in the bolts and tighten withdraw the oil pump from the engine (see bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch,
to the specified torque. illustration). just to the rear of and above the brake hose
16 Repeat the operations on the remaining 4 Clean away the old gasket. bracket (see illustration).
pistons/connecting rods. 3 Unscrew and remove the mounting
Refitting retaining nut and washer from the suspension
17 Refit the sump and the cylinder head.
Refill with oil and coolant. 5 If a new pump is being fitted, it should be strut cup retaining plate.
primed with engine oil before installation. Do 4 Undo the three bolts securing the mounting
this by turning its shaft while filling it with unit to the cylinder block (working from
10 Oil filter and pump - removal
and refitting 2 clean engine oil.
6 Locate a new gasket on the pump
mounting flange, insert the pump shaft and
bolt the pump into position.
underneath). The mounting unit and bracket
can then be lowered from the engine.
5 Unbolt and remove the mounting from its
support bracket.
7 Oil the rubber sealing ring of a new filter
Removal Engine bearer and mountings
and screw it into position on the pump, using
6 Unscrew and remove the two nuts securing
1 The oil pump is externally mounted on the hand pressure only, not the removal tool.
each mounting (front and rear) to the engine 2A
rearward facing side of the crankcase (see 8 Top-up the engine oil to replenish any lost
during the operations. bearer.
illustration).
7 Support the engine bearer, then undo and
remove the four retaining bolts from the
floorpan, two at the front and two at the rear
(see illustration).
8 Unscrew the retaining nut to disconnect the
rubber mounting from the transmission
support.
All mountings
9 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of
removal. Make sure that the original sequence
of assembly of washers and plates is
maintained.
10 Do not fully tighten all mounting bolts until
they are all located. As the mounting bolts and
10.1 Oil filter and pump unit 10.3 Removing the oil pump nuts are tightened, check that the mounting
rubbers do not twist.

11.7 Engine bearer (rear end) showing

11.1 Typical engine support bar 11.2 Right-hand engine mounting side mounting retaining nut (A) and retaining
retaining bolt bolts to floor (B)
2A•8 OHV engine repair procedures

12.16 Gearchange rod clamp bolt 12.17 Gearchange stabilizer rod 12.19 Gearshift housing unit-to-floor nuts
(arrowed) connection - arrow indicates washer (arrowed)
location
19 Undo and remove the four nuts retaining
12 Engine/transmission -
4
9 Unclip and disconnect the heater hoses the gearshift housing unit to the floor (see
removal and separation from the inlet manifold connection and the illustration). Rotate the shift rod and stabilizer
lateral coolant pipe. 180° and support them by tying them up with
10 Refer to Section 4 and proceed as a length of cord or wire.
Caution: After removing the engine, keep it described in paragraphs 7 to 15 inclusive. 20 Unscrew and remove the pivot bolt and
upright until the sump has been removed 11 Disconnect the wiring connections from nut from the inboard end of the left side front
to prevent sludge from entering the engine the alternator, the carburettor, the inlet suspension lower arm (see illustration), then
internals. manifold, the oil pressure switch, the remove the bolt which secures the balljoint at
reversing light switch and the engine oil the outboard end of the lower arm to the stub
Removal dipstick (if applicable). Undo the securing bolt axle carrier. An Allen key can be used to
1 This procedure entails lowering the engine and disconnect the engine earth strap. prevent the bolt turning while the nut is
and gearbox, and removing the unit from 12 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable unscrewed.
beneath the car. For this reason, certain items at the gearbox end. 21 The left-hand driveshaft must now be
of equipment are necessary. A suitable engine 13 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
released from the transmission. Do this by
hoist should be employed to lower the engine. release lever and gearbox support.
inserting a lever between the inboard constant
A more difficult alternative would be to use a 14 Raise and support the vehicle on safety
velocity (CV) joint and the transmission (see
good trolley jack. Secondly, if an inspection stands at the front and rear, ensuring that,
illustration). With an assistant pulling the
pit is not available, four strong axle jacks when raised, the vehicle is level and there is
roadwheel outwards, strike the lever hard with
capable of supporting the weight of the car, sufficient clearance to lower and remove the
engine and transmission from underneath. the hand. Note that a quantity of oil will be
must be used. In addition, a willing friend will released when the driveshaft is removed so
make the procedure easier. 15 Disconnect the starter motor leads.
16 Disconnect the gearchange rod from the have a container ready.
2 Select 4th gear, or reverse gear on 5-speed
gearbox selector shaft. Do this by releasing 22 Tie the driveshaft up to the steering rack
models, to make gearshift adjustment easier
the clamp bolt and withdrawing the rod (see housing to prevent strain to the CV joints.
on reassembly.
illustration). Tie the rod to the stabilizer and 23 Restrain the differential pinion cage to
3 Open and remove the bonnet.
then unhook the tension spring. prevent the cage from turning, using a plastic
4 Disconnect the battery leads.
17 Unscrew the single bolt and disconnect plug or similar. Failure to do this may make
5 Drain the engine coolant.
6 Remove the radiator and thermo-electric the stabilizer from the gearbox. Note the reconnection of the driveshafts difficult.
fan unit. washer which is located between the 24 Remove the three retaining bolts and
7 To drain any remaining coolant within the stabilizer trunnion and the gearbox casing detach the tie-bar on the right-hand side,
engine, undo and remove the cylinder block (see illustration). complete with mounting bracket, from the
drain plug from the left-hand side at the front 18 Drain the gearbox. As no drain plug is crossmember (see illustration).
(exhaust manifold face) and drain the fitted, this is carried out by unscrewing the 25 Release the inboard and outboard ends of
remaining coolant into a suitable container. cap nut on the selector shaft locking the front suspension lower arm on the right-
8 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hoses assembly. Take care not to lose the locking hand side of the vehicle, as described for the
and remove the air cleaner unit. pin and spring. left-hand side.

12.20 Front suspension lower arm pivot 12.21 Driveshaft removal from gearbox 12.24 Tie-bar mounting bolts (arrowed).
bolt and nut locations Note that XR2 variant differs
 OHV engine repair procedures 2A•9

12.28a Engine mounting bolt under right- 12.28b Engine mounting nut on right-hand 12.28c Engine bearer retaining bolts -
hand wheel arch suspension strut retaining plate (arrowed) front
26 Disconnect the right-hand driveshaft, as rear oil seal, when the main bearings or big-
previously described for the left-hand one. end bearings have been knocking, and
27 Connect a suitable hoist to the engine, especially if the vehicle has covered a high
preferably using a spreader bar and mileage, then it is recommended that a
connecting lifting hooks to the engine: lifting complete strip down is carried out and every
lugs provided. engine component examined.
28 With the weight of the engine and 2 Position the engine so that it is upright on a
transmission just supported, disconnect the bench or other convenient working surface. If
engine and transmission mountings at the the exterior is very dirty it should be cleaned
points shown (see illustrations). before dismantling using paraffin and a stiff
29 Unbolt the engine mounting (complete brush or a water-soluble solvent.
with coolant hose support bracket, where 3 Remove the coolant pipe from the side of
applicable) from the side-member and from the engine by disconnecting the hose clips
the wing apron panel. and the securing bolt (see illustration). 12.28d Engine bearer retaining bolts - rear
30 Carefully lower the engine/transmission 4 If not already done, drain the engine oil.
and withdraw it from under the car. To ease 5 Remove the dipstick and unscrew and
the withdrawal operation, lower the discard the oil filter.
engine/transmission onto a crawler board or a 6 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark 15 Remove the bolt that holds the distributor
sheet of substantial plywood placed on rollers plugs, release the distributor cap and lift it clamp plate to the cylinder block and 2A
or lengths of pipe. away complete with leads. withdraw the distributor.
7 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs. 16 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump (see
Separation 8 Disconnect the breather hose from the inlet illustration).
31 Unscrew and remove the starter motor manifold and remove it complete with the oil 17 Remove the oil pump.
bolts and remove the starter. filler cap. 18 Pinch the two runs of the coolant pump
32 Unbolt and remove the clutch cover plate 9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes from drivebelt together at the pump pulley to
from the lower part of the clutch bellhousing. the carburettor and unbolt and remove the prevent the pulley rotating and release the
33 Unscrew and remove the bolts from the carburettor. pulley bolts.
clutch bellhousing-to-engine mating flange. 10 Unbolt the thermostat housing cover and 19 Release the alternator mounting and
34 Withdraw the transmission from the remove it, together with the thermostat. adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in
engine. Support its weight so that the clutch 11 Remove the rocker cover. towards the engine and remove the drivebelt
assembly is not distorted while the input shaft 12 Remove the rocker shaft assembly (four (see illustration).
is still in engagement with the splined hub of bolts).
20 Unbolt the alternator bracket and remove
the clutch driven plate. 13 Withdraw the pushrods, keeping them in
the alternator (see illustration).
their originally fitted order.
21 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump
14 Remove the cylinder head, complete with
13 Engine - dismantling
4 manifolds. (see illustration).

It is best to support an
engine on a dismantling
stand or strong bench at a
comfortable working height
before commencing work.

1 The need for dismantling will have been

dictated by wear or noise in most cases.
Although there is no reason why only partial 13.3 Engine lateral coolant pipe 13.16 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump
dismantling cannot be carried out to renew connections (arrowed)
such items as the timing chain or crankshaft
2A•10 OHV engine repair procedures

13.19 Alternator retaining and drivebelt 13.20 Alternator mounting bracket 13.21 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump
adjustment bolts
26 Take off the oil slinger from the front face
22 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. To do behind it placed at opposite points. of the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration).
this, the flywheel starter ring gear will have to 24 Place the engine on its side and remove the 27 Slide the chain tensioner arm from its
be jammed to prevent the crankshaft from sump. Do not invert the engine at this stage, or pivot pin on the front main bearing cap (see
turning (see illustration). sludge and swarf may enter the oilways. illustration).
23 Remove the crankshaft pulley. If this does 25 Unbolt and remove the timing chain cover 28 Unbolt and remove the chain tensioner.
not pull off by hand, carefully use two levers (see illustration). 29 Bend back the lockplate tabs from the
camshaft sprocket bolts and unscrew and
remove the bolts (see illustration).
30 Withdraw the sprocket complete with
timing chain.
31 Unbolt and remove the camshaft thrust
plate (see illustration).
32 Rotate the camshaft until each cam
follower (tappet) has been pushed fully into its
hole by its cam lobe.
33 Withdraw the camshaft, taking care not to
damage the camshaft bearings (see illustration).
34 Withdraw each of the cam followers,
keeping them in their originally fitted
sequence by marking them with a piece of
13.22 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley 13.25 Remove the timing chain cover numbered tape or using a box with divisions
retaining bolt (see illustration).

13.26 Removing the crankshaft oil slinger 13.27 Sliding off the chain tensioner arm 13.29 Bending back the camshaft
sprocket bolt locktabs

13.31 Unbolting the camshaft thrust plate 13.33 Withdrawing the camshaft 13.34 Lift out the cam followers (tappets),
using a valve grinding tool
 OHV engine repair procedures 2A•11

5 If the crankshaft is in good condition, it is

wise to renew the bearing shells as it is almost
certain that the original ones will have worn.
This is often indicated by scoring of the
bearing surface or by the top layer of the
bearing metal having worn through to expose
the metal underneath.
6 Each shell is marked on its back with the
part number. Undersize shells will have the
undersize stamped additionally on their
backs.
7 Standard size crankshafts having main
bearing journal diameters at the lower end of
13.37 Connecting rod and big-end cap 13.44 Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer the tolerance range are marked with a yellow
markings (arrowed) spot on the front balance weight. You will find
that with this type of crankshaft, a standard
35 From the front end of the crankshaft, draw bearing. Keep these shells with their shell is fitted to the seat in the crankcase but a
off the sprocket using a two-legged extractor. respective caps, identifying them for refitting yellow colour-coded shell to the main bearing
36 Check that the main bearing caps are to the crankcase if they are to be used again. cap.
marked F (Front), C (Centre) and R (Rear). The 47 With the engine now completely 8 If a green spot is seen on the crankshaft
caps are also marked with an arrow which dismantled, each component should be then this indicates that 0.254 mm undersize
indicates the timing cover end of the engine, a examined, as described in the following big-end bearings are used in place of the
point to remember when refitting the caps. Section before reassembling. standard diameter.
37 Check that the big-end caps and
Cylinder bores, pistons, rings
connecting rods have adjacent matching and connecting rods
numbers facing towards the camshaft side of
the engine. Number 1 assembly is nearest the
timing chain end of the engine. If any
14 Engine - examination and
renovation 3 9 Cylinder bore wear will usually have been
evident from the smoke emitted from the
markings are missing or indistinct, make exhaust during recent operation of the vehicle
some of your own with quick-drying paint 1 Clean all components using paraffin and a on the road, coupled with excessive oil
(see illustration). stiff brush, except the crankshaft, which consumption and fouling of spark plugs.
38 Unbolt and remove the big-end bearing should be wiped clean and the oil passages 10 Engine life can be extended by fitting
caps. If the bearing shell is to be used again, cleaned out with a length of wire. special oil control rings to the pistons. These
tape the shell to the cap. 2 Never assume that a component is unworn are widely advertised and will give many more
simply because it looks all right. After all the thousands of useful mileage without the need 2A
39 Now check the top of the cylinder bore for
effort which has gone into dismantling the for a rebore, although this will be inevitable
a wear ridge. If one can be felt, it should be
engine, refitting worn components will make eventually. If this remedy is decided upon,
removed with a scraper before the piston/rod
the overhaul a waste of time and money. remove the piston/connecting rods and fit the
is pushed out of the cylinder. Depending on the degree of wear, the proprietary rings in accordance with the
40 Remove the piston/rod by pushing it out overhauler’s budget and the anticipated life of manufacturer’s instructions.
of the top of the block. Tape the bearing shell the vehicle, components which are only 11 Where a more permanent solution is
to the connecting rod. slightly worn may be refitted, but if in doubt it decided upon, the cylinder block can be
41 Remove the remaining three piston/rod is always best to renew. rebored by your dealer or engineering works,
assemblies in a similar way.
Crankshaft, main and big-end or by one of the mobile workshops which now
42 Unbolt the clutch pressure plate cover
bearings undertake such work. The cylinder bore will
from the flywheel. Unscrew the bolts evenly
be measured both for out-of-round and for
and progressively until spring pressure is 3 The need to renew the main bearing shells
taper to decide how much the bores should
relieved, before removing the bolts. Be or to have the crankshaft reground will usually
be bored out. A set of matching pistons will
prepared to catch the clutch driven plate as have been determined during the last few
be supplied in a suitable oversize to suit the
the cover is withdrawn. miles of operation when perhaps a heavy
new bores.
43 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. It is knocking has developed from within the
crankcase or the oil pressure warning lamp 12 Due to the need for special heating and
heavy, do not drop it. If necessary, the starter installing equipment for removal and refitting
ring gear can be jammed to prevent the has stayed on, denoting a low oil pressure
probably caused by excessive wear in the of the interference type gudgeon pin, the
flywheel rotating. There is no need to mark the removal and refitting of pistons to the
fitted position of the flywheel to its mounting bearings.
4 Even without these symptoms, the journals connecting rods is definitely a specialist job,
flange as it can only be fitted one way. Take preferably for your Ford dealer.
off the adapter plate (engine backplate). and crankpins on a high mileage engine
should be checked for out-of-round (ovality) 13 The removal and refitting of piston rings is
44 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oil however well within the scope of the home
and taper. For this a micrometer will be
seal retainer (see illustration). mechanic. Do this by sliding two or three old
needed to check the diameter of the journals
45 Unbolt the main bearing caps. Remove feeler blades round behind the top
and crankpins at several different points
the caps, tapping them off if necessary with a around them. A motor factor or engineer can compression ring so that they are at
plastic-faced hammer. Retain the bearing do this for you. If the readings show that either equidistant points. The ring can now be slid
shells with their respective caps if the shells out-of-round or taper is present, then the up the blades and removed. Repeat the
are to be used again, although unless the crankshaft should be reground by your dealer removal operations on the second
engine is of low mileage this is not or engine reconditioning company to accept compression ring and then the oil control ring.
recommended. the undersize main and big-end shell bearings This method will not only prevent the rings
46 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and which are available. Normally, the company from dropping onto empty grooves as they
lift out the upper bearing shells, noting the doing the regrinding will supply the necessary are withdrawn, but it will also avoid ring
thrustwashers either side of the centre undersize shells. breakage.
2A•12 OHV engine repair procedures

14.14 Checking a piston ring end gap 14.19 Drilling the flywheel starter ring gear 14.20 Removing the ring gear from the
flywheel

14.24a Oil pump components

A Cover E Filter (relief valve) H Outer rotor

B O-ring F Plug J Inner rotor
C Pump body G Relief valve K Drive pinion 14.24b Check the oil pump rotor-to-body clearance at (a) and the
D Threaded insert inner-to-outer rotor clearance at (b)
14 Even when new piston rings have been Flywheel a domestic oven. Do not heat it above 290°C
supplied to match the pistons, always check or its hardness will be lost.
19 Inspect the starter ring gear on the
that they are not tight in their grooves and 22 Slip the ring onto the flywheel and gently
flywheel for wear or broken teeth. If evident,
also check their end gaps by pushing them the ring gear should be renewed in the tap it into position against its register. Allow it
squarely down their particular cylinder bore following way. Drill the ring gear with two to cool without quenching.
and measuring with a feeler blade (see holes, approximately 7 or 8 mm diameter and 23 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel
illustration). Adjustment of the end gap can offset as shown (see illustration). Make sure should be checked for grooving or tiny hair
be made by careful grinding to bring it within that you do not drill too deeply or you will cracks, the latter being caused by
the specified tolerance. damage the flywheel. overheating. If these conditions are evident, it
15 If new rings are being fitted to an old 20 Tap the ring gear downward off its
piston, always remove any carbon from the may be possible to surface grind the flywheel
register and remove it (see illustration). provided its balance is not upset. Otherwise, a
grooves beforehand. The best tool for this job 21 Place the flywheel in the household
is the end of a broken piston ring. Take care new flywheel will have to be fitted - consult
refrigerator for about an hour and then heat
not to cut your fingers, piston rings are sharp. the new ring gear to between 260 and 28°C in your dealer about this.
The cylinder bores should be roughened with
fine glass paper to assist the bedding-in of the
Oil pump
new rings. 24 The oil pump should be checked for wear
by unbolting and removing the cover plate
Timing sprockets and chain and checking the following tolerances (see
16 The teeth on the timing sprockets rarely illustrations).
wear, but check for broken or hooked teeth a) Outer rotor-to-pump body gap
even so.
b) Inner rotor-to-outer rotor gap
17 The timing chain should always be
c) Rotor endfloat (use a feeler blade and
renewed at time of major engine overhaul. A
worn chain is evident if, when supported straight-edge across pump body)
horizontally at both ends, it takes on a deeply Use feeler blades to check the tolerances and
bowed appearance. if they are outside the specified values, renew
18 Finally check the rubber cushion on the the pump.
tensioner spring leaf. If grooved or chewed 14.25 Oil pump O-ring seal must be 25 If the pump is serviceable, renew the O-
up, renew it. renewed (arrowed) ring and refit the cover (see illustration).
 OHV engine repair procedures 2A•13

Oil seals and gasket

26 Renew the oil seals on the timing cover
and the crankshaft rear retainer as a matter of
routine at time of major overhaul. Oil seals are
cheap, oil is not! Use a piece of tubing as a
removal and installing tool. Apply some
grease to the oil seal lips and check that the
small tensioner spring in the oil seal has not
been displaced by the vibration caused during
fitting of the seal.
27 Renew all the gaskets by purchasing the
appropriate “de-coke”, short or full engine
set. Oil seals may be included in the gasket
14.42 Checking valve in guide for wear 14.47 Valve stem oil seals
sets.
A Exhaust valve type B Inlet valve type
Crankcase down the compressor tool, the spring retainer 47 Reassemble the cylinder head by first
28 Clean out the oilways with a length of wire does not release from the collets, remove the fitting new valve stem oil seals (see
or by using compressed air. Similarly clean compressor and place a piece of tubing on illustration). Install No 1 valve (lubricated) into
the coolant passages. This is best done by the retainer so that it does not impinge on the its guide and fit the valve spring with the
flushing through with a cold water hose. collets and strike the end of the tubing a sharp closer coils to the cylinder head, followed by
Examine the crankcase and block for stripped blow with a hammer. Refit the compressor the spring retainer. Compress the spring and
threads in bolt holes; if evident, thread inserts and compress the spring. engage the split collets in the cutout in the
can be fitted. 38 Extract the split collets and then gently valve stem. Hold them in position while the
29 Renew any core plugs which appear to be release the compressor and remove it. compressor is gently released and removed.
leaking or which are excessively rusty. 39 Remove the valve spring retainer, the 48 Repeat the operations on the remaining
30 Cracks in the casting may be rectified by spring and the oil seal. valves, making sure that each valve is
specialist welding, or by one of the cold metal 40 Withdraw the valve. returned to its original guide or if new valves
key interlocking processes available. 41 Repeat the removal operations on the have been fitted, into the seat into which it
remaining seven valves. Keep the valves in was ground.
Camshaft and bearings 49 On completion, support the ends of the
their originally fitted sequence by placing
31 Examine the camshaft gear and lobes for them in 3 piece of card which has holes cylinder head on two wooden blocks and
damage or wear. If evident a new camshaft punched in it and numbered 1 to 8 (from the strike the end of each valve stem with a
must be purchased, or one which has been timing cover end). plastic or copper-faced hammer; just a light
built-up such as are advertised by firms 42 Place each valve in turn in its guide so blow to settle the components. 2A
specialising in exchange components. that approximately one third of its length
32 The bearing internal diameters should be enters the guide. Rock the valve from side to
checked against the Specifications if a
suitable gauge is available: otherwise, check
for movement between the camshaft journal
side (see illustration). If there is any more
than an imperceptible movement, the guides
will have to be reamed (working from the valve
15 Cylinder head and pistons -
decarbonising 3
and the bearing. Worn bearings should be seat end) and oversize stemmed valves fitted.
renewed by your dealer. If you do not have the necessary reamer (tool 1 With the cylinder head removed, the carbon
33 Check the camshaft endfloat by 71-042 or 21-043), leave this work to your deposits should be removed from the
temporarily refitting the camshaft and the Ford dealer. combustion spaces using a scraper and a
thrust plate. 43 Examine the valve seats. Normally, the wire brush fitted into an electric drill. Take
seats do not deteriorate but the valve heads care not to damage the valve heads,
Cam followers otherwise no special precautions need be
are more likely to burn away, in which case
34 It is seldom that the cam followers wear in taken as the cylinder head is of cast iron
new valves can be ground in. If the seats
their bores, but it is likely that after a high construction.
require re-cutting, use a standard cutter
mileage, the cam lobe contact surface will 2 Where a more thorough job is to be carried
available from most accessory or tool stores
show signs of a depression or grooving. out, the cylinder head should be dismantled
or consult your motor engineering works.
35 Where this condition is evident, renew the so that the valves may be ground in and the
44 Renewal of any valve seat which is
cam followers. Grinding out the wear marks ports and combustion spaces cleaned,
cracked or beyond recutting is definitely a job
will only reduce the thickness of the hardened brushed and blown out after the manifolds
for your dealer or motor engineering works.
metal of the cam follower and accelerate have been removed.
45 If the cylinder head mating surface is
further wear. 3 Before grinding-in a valve remove the
suspected of being distorted due to persistent carbon and deposits completely from its head
Cylinder head and rocker gear leakage of coolant at the gasket joint, then it and stem. With an inlet valve, this is usually
36 The usual reason for dismantling the can be checked and surface ground by your quite easy, simply scraping off the soft carbon
cylinder head is to decarbonise and to grind in dealer or motor engineering works. Distortion with a blunt knife and finishing with a wire
the valves. Reference should therefore be is unlikely under normal circumstances with a brush. With an exhaust valve the deposits are
made to the next Section, in addition to the cast iron head. very much harder and those on the head may
dismantling operations described here. First 46 Check the rocker shaft and rocker arms need a rub on coarse emery cloth to remove
remove the manifolds. pads which bear on the valve stem end faces them. An old woodworking chisel is a useful
37 Using a standard valve spring for wear or scoring, also for any broken coil tool to remove the worst of the head deposits.
compressor, compress the spring on No 1 springs. Renew components as necessary. If 4 Make sure that the valve heads are really
valve (valve nearest the timing cover). Do not the valve springs have been in use for 50 000 clean, otherwise the rubber suction cup of the
overcompress the spring or the valve stem miles (80 000 km) or more, they should be grinding tool will not stick during the grinding-
may bend. If it is found that, when screwing renewed. in operations.
2A•14 OHV engine repair procedures

15.6 Grinding-in a valve 16.4a Crankshaft endfloat half 16.4b Fit the upper main bearing shell
thrustwashers (with lubrication groove) and the
thrustwashers (centre bearing)
5 Before starting to grind in a valve, support 10 Cover the oilways and coolant passages
the cylinder head so that there is sufficient with masking tape and then using a blunt 5 Check that the Woodruff key is in position
clearance under for the valve stem to project scraper remove all the carbon from the piston on the front end of the crankshaft and tap the
fully without being obstructed. crowns. Take care not to score the soft alloy crankshaft sprocket into place using a piece
6 Take the first valve and apply a little coarse of the crown or the surface of the cylinder of tubing.
grinding paste to the bevelled edge of the bore. 6 Oil the bearing shells and lower the
valve head. Insert the valve into its guide and 11 Rotate the crankshaft to bring the other crankshaft into the crankcase.
apply the suction grinding tool to its head two pistons to TDC and repeat the operations. 7 Wipe the seats in the main bearing caps
(see illustration). Rotate the tool between the 12 Wipe away the circle of grease and and fit the bearing shells into them. Install the
palms of the hands in a back-and-forth rotary carbon from the cylinder bores. caps so that their markings are correctly
movement until the gritty action of the 13 Clean the top surface of the cylinder block positioned (see illustration).
grinding-in process disappears. Repeat the by careful scraping. 8 Screw in the cap bolts and tighten evenly to
operation with the fine paste and then wipe the specified torque.
away all traces of grinding paste and examine 9 Now check the crankshaft endfloat. Ideally a
16 Engine - reassembly
3
the seat and bevelled edge of the valve. A dial gauge should be used, but feeler blades are
matt silver mating band should be observed an alternative if inserted between the face of the
on both components, without any sign of thrustwasher and the machined surface of the
black spots. If some spots do remain, repeat
crankshaft balance weight after having prised
the grinding-in process until they have
1 With everything clean, commence the crankshaft first in one direction and then the
disappeared. A drop or two of paraffin applied
reassembly by oiling the bores for the cam other (see illustration). Provided the
to the contact surfaces will increase the
followers and inserting them fully in their thrustwashers at the centre bearing have been
speed of grinding-in, but do not allow any
paste to run down into the valve guide. On original sequence. renewed, the endfloat should be with the
completion, wipe away every trace of grinding 2 Lubricate the camshaft bearings and insert specified tolerance. If it is not, oversize
paste using a paraffin-moistened cloth. the camshaft from the timing cover end of the thrustwashers are available (see Specifications).
7 Repeat the operations on the remaining engine. 10 Rotate the crankshaft so that the timing
valves, taking care not to mix up their 3 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the fixing mark on its sprocket is directly in line with the
originally fitted sequence. bolts to the specified torque. The endfloat will centre of the crankshaft sprocket mounting
8 Reassemble the valves to the cylinder head. already have been checked, as described in flange.
9 An important part of the decarbonising Section 14. 11 Engage the camshaft sprocket within the
operation is to remove the carbon deposits 4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in timing chain and then engage the chain
from the piston crowns. To do this, turn the the crankcase and fit the shells, noting that around the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket.
crankshaft so that two pistons are at the top the lower shells do not have the lubrication Push the camshaft sprocket onto its mounting
of their stroke and press some grease groove. Using a little grease, stick the semi- flange. The camshaft sprocket bolt holes
between these pistons and the cylinder walls. circular thrustwashers on either side of the should now be in alignment with the tapped
This will prevent carbon particles falling down centre bearing so that the oil grooves are holes in the camshaft flange and both
into the piston ring grooves. Stuff rags into the visible when the washers are installed (see sprocket timing marks in alignment (see
other two bores. illustrations). illustration). Turn the camshaft as necessary

16.7 Main bearing cap markings 16.9 Checking the crankshaft endfloat 16.11 Crankshaft and camshaft sprocket
using the dial gauge method timing marks (arrowed)
 OHV engine repair procedures 2A•15

16.12 Secure the camshaft sprocket 16.15 Bolt (arrowed) which secures timing 16.16 Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal
retaining bolts with the tab washer cover and coolant pump retainer - note new gasket
to achieve this, also withdraw the camshaft the crankcase during removal, make sure that
sprocket and reposition it within the loop of a new gasket is fitted to each side of the
the chain. This is a “trial and error” operation block.
which must be continued until exact 26 Fit the coolant pump using a new gasket.
alignment of bolt holes and timing marks is 27 Fit the cylinder head.
achieved. 28 Refit the pushrods in their original
12 Screw in the sprocket bolts to the sequence, and the rocker shaft.
specified torque and bend up the tabs of a 29 Adjust the valve clearances and refit the
new lockplate (see illustration). rocker cover using a new gasket.
13 Bolt the timing chain tensioner into 30 Fit the inlet and exhaust manifolds using
position, retract the tensioner cam spring and new gaskets and tightening the nuts and bolts
then slide the tensioner arm onto its pivot pin. to the specified torque.
Release the cam tensioner so that it bears 31 Refit the carburettor using a new flange
upon the arm. gasket and connect the fuel pipe from the
14 Fit the oil slinger to the front of the pump. 16.17 Locate the engine backplate over
crankshaft sprocket so that its convex side is 32 Screw in the spark plugs and the coolant the two dowels (arrowed)
against the sprocket. temperature switch (if removed).
15 Using a new gasket, fit the timing cover 33 Refit the thermostat and the thermostat
which will already have been fitted with a new housing cover. 2A
oil seal. One fixing bolt should be left out at
this stage as it also holds the coolant pump
(see illustration). Grease the oil seal lips and
34 Fit the pulley to the coolant pump pulley
flange.
35 Fit the alternator and the drivebelt and
17 Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting 4
fit the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the pulley tension the belt.
bolt to the specified torque. 36 Refit the distributor.
16 Using a new gasket, bolt the crankshaft 37 Refit the distributor cap and reconnect the Warning: Before starting a
rear oil seal retainer into position. Tighten the spark plug HT leads. newly installed engine, make a
bolts to the specified torque (see illustration). 38 Bolt on and connect the coolant pipe to final check to ensure that all
17 Locate the engine adapter (back) plate on the side of the cylinder block. engine components have been
its dowels and then fit the flywheel (see 39 Fit the breather pipe from the oil filler cap reconnected and that no rags or tools
illustration). to the inlet manifold and fit the cap. have been left in the engine bay.
18 Screw in and tighten the flywheel bolts to 40 Check the sump drain plug for tightness.
the specified torque. To prevent the flywheel A new seal should be fitted at regular intervals 1 This is a direct reversal of the removal and
turning, the starter ring gear can be jammed to prevent leakage. Refit the dipstick. separation from the transmission. Take care
or a piece of wood placed between a 41 Refilling with oil should be left until the not to damage the engine ancillary
crankshaft balance weight and the inside of engine is installed in the vehicle. components and body panels when raising
the crankcase. the unit into position.
19 Install and centralise the clutch.
20 The pistons/connecting rods should now Reconnection
be installed. Check to ensure that with the 2 Reconnection of the engine and
piston crown arrow pointing to the timing transmission is a reversal of separation but if
cover end of the engine, the oil hole in the the clutch has been dismantled, check that
connecting rod is on the left as shown (see the driven plate has been centralised, and that
illustration). Oil the cylinder bores. the pressure plate bolts are tightened to the
21 Install the pistons/connecting rods.
specified torque (see Chapter 6).
22 Fit the sump.
3 Locate the engine bearer and mountings
23 Fit the oil pressure sender unit, if
removed. and tighten the attachment bolts and nuts.
24 Turn the crankshaft until No 1 piston is at Refitting
TDC (crankshaft pulley and timing cover
marks aligned) and fit the oil pump complete 16.20 Piston-to-connecting rod 4 First check that the engine sump drain plug
with new gasket and a new oil filter. relationship. Lubrication hole and piston is tight and that the gearbox cap nut (removed
25 Using a new gasket, fit the fuel pump. If crown mark (arrowed) must align as to drain the oil) is refitted, together with its
the insulating block became detached from shown locking pin and spring.
2A•16 OHV engine repair procedures

17.5 Engine bearer and mountings 17.13 Connect the gearbox stabilizer rod 17.16a Sliding the clamp onto the gearbox
selector shaft
5 Manoeuvre the engine/transmission under
the vehicle and attach the lifting hoist. Raise
the engine carefully until the engine mounting
stud is engaged in the suspension strut
retaining plate and the engine bearer is in
contact with the floorpan. Align the engine
bearer with the retaining bolt holes then fit
and tighten the bolts. When tightening the
bolts check that the mounting rubbers are not
being twisted (see illustration).
6 Refit the transmission bearer to the rubber
insulator, fit the right-hand mounting retaining
nut and washer, the side-mounted bolt and
washer (under the wheel arch) and tighten. 17.16b Gear lever locked in selector 17.16c Tightening the gearchange rod
7 With the engine and transmission fully housing by pin (arrowed) clamp bolt
secured, release the lifting hoist and remove
it. Four-speed gearbox - pre 1987 d) Remove the locking pins.
8 If some sort of plug was used to prevent the models Four-speed gearbox - post February
differential pinion cage from turning, remove a) Pull downwards on the gearchange rod 1987 models
the plug now. If a plug was not used, insert a and slip it onto the selector shaft which a) Set the gearchange lever inside the car to
finger in the driveshaft hole and align the cage projects from the transmission. The clamp 2nd gear.
ready to receive the driveshaft. If this is not should be loose on the gearchange rod b) Free the control rod (which runs from the
done, the driveshaft cannot engage with the (see illustration).
splined pinion gear. Use a new snap-ring and floor lever) from the selector rod at the
b) Using a 3.5 mm diameter rod or pin,
reconnect the right-hand driveshaft to the transmission, by unscrewing the clamp
insert it as shown and pull the gear lever
transmission by having an assistant apply bolt.
downwards to lock it in the selector slide.
pressure on the roadwheel. Check that the c) Make up a stepped rod similar to the one
When inserting the rod, point up upward
snap-ring has locked in position. shown (see illustration). This can be
to feel the cut-out in the gear lever before
9 Relocate the right-hand tie-bar and bracket achieved by pushing a piece of welding
prising it downwards (see illustration).
to the crossmember and refit the retaining Now turn your attention to the gearbox. rod through a length of plastic tubing.
bolts. c) Using a pin or rod, inserted into the hole d) Insert the tool into the left-hand side of
10 Reconnect the right-hand lower in the end of the projecting selector shaft, the mechanism housing under the car,
suspension arm. Tighten the bolts. turn the shaft clockwise to its stop and and feel the point of the tool engage in
11 Refit the driveshaft and suspension lower retain it in this position with a strong the hole in the lever arm. Fit the O-ring or
arm to the opposite side in a similar way to rubber band. Now tighten the clamp heavy rubber band as shown (see
that just described. pinch-bolt (see illustration). illustration).
12 Rotate the gearchange housing back
through 180° then loosely attach it to the floor
panels with the retaining bolts.
13 Reconnect the transmission stabilizer rod,
making sure to insert the washer between the
rod and the transmission case (see
illustration).
14 Check that the gearchange rod is still in
4th (4-speed gearbox) or reverse (5-speed 17.16d Gearshift setting
gearbox). tool
15 Tighten the gearbox housing-to-floor A Tubing
attachment bolts. B Welding rod
16 Check that the contact faces of the C O-ring or rubber band
gearchange rod and selector shaft are free of All dimensions in mm
grease then reconnect them and adjust as
follows, according to gearbox type:
 OHV engine repair procedures 2A•17

17.16e Setting tool in place - 4-speed 17.16f Hold gear lever in position with lock 17.16g Retain selector shaft when
gearbox tool tightening clamp bolt
e) With 2nd gear correctly engaged, b) Release the control rod (which runs from 22 Reconnect the electrical leads, the fuel
reconnect the control rod to the selector the floor lever) from the selector rod at the pipe, the brake vacuum hose and the
rod by tightening the clamp bolt. Remove transmission by unscrewing the clamp speedometer cable.
the stepped tool. bolt. 23 Reconnect the throttle cable and the
f) Select each gear in turn to confirm that c) Insert a rod (3.5 mm diameter) into the heater hoses.
the linkage has been correctly set. left-hand side of the mechanism housing 24 Reconnect the radiator coolant hoses.
Five-speed gearbox - pre 1987 models under the car (see illustration). 25 Fill up with engine oil, gearbox oil and
d) With the 4th gear correctly engaged, coolant, then reconnect the battery.
a) Use a lock tool similar to that shown, pull reconnect the control rod to the selector 26 Refit the bonnet, bolting the hinges to
the gear lever down in its selector gate rod by tightening the clamp bolt. Remove their originally marked positions.
reverse gear position and set the tool to the temporary rod. 27 Fit the air cleaner and reconnect the
hold it against the stop (see illustration). e) Select each gear in turn to confirm that hoses and the air cleaner inlet spout.
b) Insert a suitable rod or drift into the hole the linkage has been correctly set. 28 Once the engine is running, check the
in the selector shaft, rotate the shaft 17 Refit the clutch housing cover plate and dwell angle, timing, idle speed and mixture
clockwise until it is felt to be against the secure with retaining bolts. adjustment.
stop then push it into the gearbox and 18 Refit the starter motor and reconnect its 29 If a number of new internal components
retain it in this position while tightening wiring. have been installed, run the vehicle at
the gearchange rod clamp bolt. Remove 19 Reconnect the engine earth strap restricted speed for the first few hundred
the drift and lock tool (see illustration). underneath also the reversing light lead. miles to allow time for the new components to 2A
Five-speed gearbox - post February 20 Refit the exhaust system and bolt the bed in. It is also recommended that with a
1987 models downpipe to the manifold. Refit the heated air new or rebuilt engine, the engine oil and filter
a) Set the gearchange lever inside the car to box which connects with the air cleaner. are changed at the end of the running-in
4th gear. 21 Reconnect the clutch operating cable. period.

17.16h Setting tool in place - 5-speed

gearbox
2A•18 Notes
 2B•1

Chapter 2 Part B:
CVH engine repair procedures
Contents
Camshaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Engine/transmission - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Operations only possible with engine removed from vehicle . . . . . . . .3
Engine - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Operations possible without removing engine from vehicle . . . . . . . . .2
Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .11 Timing belt - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Specifications
1.3 and 1.6 litre engines
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, overhead cam, water-cooled. Compound Valve 2B
Hemispherical head (CVH)

1.3 litre 1.6 litre

Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JPC LUB
Firing order (No 1 at timing cover end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 mm 79.96 mm
Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.52 mm 79.52 mm
Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1296 cc 1597 cc
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 : 1 9.5 : 1
Compression pressure at starter speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.2 to 14.8 kgf/cm2 11.2 to 14.8 kgf/cm2
Maximum continuous engine speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6450 6300

Cylinder block
Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cylinder bore diameter:
Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.94 to 79.95 mm
Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.95 to 79.96 mm
Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 to 79.97 mm
Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.97 to 79.98 mm
Oversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.23 to 80.24 mm
Oversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.24 to 80.25 mm
Oversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.25 to 80.26 mm
Main bearing shell inner diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58.011 to 58.038 mm
Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.761 to 57.788 mm
Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.511 to 57.538 mm
Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.261 to 57.288 mm

Crankshaft
Main bearing journal diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.98 to 58.00 mm
Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.73 to 57.75 mm
Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.48 to 57.50 mm
Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.23 to 57.25 mm
2B•2 CVH engine repair procedures

Crankshaft (continued)
Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.058 mm
Thrustwasher thickness:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.301 to 2.351 mm
Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.491 to 2.541 mm
Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.30 mm
Crankpin (big-end) diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.89 to 47.91 mm
Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.64 to 47.66 mm
Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.39 to 47.41 mm
Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.14 to 47.16 mm
Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.89 to 46.91 mm
Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Camshaft
Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Belt tension:
Setting up (torque wrench on camshaft sprocket):
1.3 litre (colour code blue) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 to 6.5 kgf m
1.6 litre (colour code yellow) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 to 5.0 kgf m
Final setting (using Ford tool 21-113):
Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 on scale
New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 11 on scale
Note: A used belt is one which has been in use for more than 30 minutes.
Camshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.99 to 5.01 mm
Cam lift:
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.79 mm
1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.09 mm
Cam length (heel to toe):
Inlet:
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.305 mm
1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.606 mm
Exhaust:
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.289 mm
1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.590 mm
Camshaft bearing diameter:
1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.75 mm
2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.00 mm
3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.25 mm
4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.40 mm
5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.75 mm
Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.15 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Diameter:
Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.910 to 79.920 mm
Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.920 to 79.930 mm
Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.940 mm
Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm
Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.955 mm
Oversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.210 to 80.235 mm
Oversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.430 to 80.455 mm
Piston-to-bore clearance:
Production . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.040 mm
Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.045 mm
Ring gap positions (when fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120° apart
Piston ring gap:
Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm
Oil control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 1.4 mm

Gudgeon pin
Pin diameter:
White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm
Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm
Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm
Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm
Play in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mm
Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mm
 CVH engine repair procedures 2B•3

Connecting rod
Big-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.890 to 50.910 mm
Small-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.589 to 20.609 mm
Big-end bearing shell inside diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.916 to 47.950 mm
Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.666 to 47.700 mm
Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.416 to 47.450 mm
Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.166 to 47.200 mm
Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.916 to 46.950 mm
Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Cylinder head
Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°
Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.75 to 2.32 mm
Maximum cylinder head distortion permissible:
Over distance of 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 mm
Over distance of 156 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mm
Over full length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm
Facing head mating surface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm
Minimum combustion chamber depth (after refacing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.60 mm

Valves - general 1.3 litre 1.6 litre

Inlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° BTDC 8° BTDC
Inlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28° ABDC 36° ABDC
Exhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30° BBDC 34° BBDC
Exhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° ATDC 6° ATDC
Valve lift:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.56 mm 10.09 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.52 mm 10.06 mm
Valve spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.2 mm 47.2 mm

Inlet valve
Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134.54 to 135.00 mm
Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.9 to 42.1 mm 2B
Stem diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm
Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mm
Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm
Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.063 mm

Exhaust valve
Length:
1.3 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131.17 to 131.63 mm
1.6 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131.57 to 132.03 mm
Head diameter:
1.3 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.9 to 34.1 mm
1.6 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.9 to 37.1 mm
Valve stem diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm
Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.199 to 8.217 mm
Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.399 to 8.417 mm
Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.046 to 0.089 mm

Lubrication system
Minimum oil pressure at 80°C (175°F):
At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 kgf/cm2
At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 kgf/cm2
Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear, driven by crankshaft
Oil pump clearances:
Gear type pump:
Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.069 to 0.140 mm
Inner rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.070 to 0.165 mm
Rotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.028 to 0.078 mm
Rotor type pump:
Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mm
Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.180 mm
Rotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm
2B•4 CVH engine repair procedures

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70
Big-end bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Oil pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Oil pump pick-up tube bolt to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Oil pump pick-up to pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9
Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9
Sump (with one-piece gasket) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 8 4 to 6
Rear oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63
Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 40
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°
Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41
Belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Rocker arm studs in head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 15
Rocker arm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20
Rocker cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Timing cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12
Inlet manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
Carburettor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Thermostat housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20
Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30
Transmission oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Fuel pump nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 18 10 to 13
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 22 13 to 16
1.4 litre engine
The Specifications are the same as for the 1.3 litre CVH engine, except for the following:

General
Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FUA/FUB
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 mm
Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.30 mm
Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 cc
Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6200 rpm

Cylinder block
Cylinder bore diameter:
Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.220 to 77.230 mm
Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.230 to 77.240 mm
Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.240 to 77.250 mm
Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.250 to 77.260 mm
Oversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.510 to 77.520 mm
Oversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.520 to 77.530 mm
Oversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.530 to 77.540 mm
Oversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.525 to 77.535 mm
Oversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.745 to 77.755 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Diameter:
Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.190 to 77.200 mm
Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.200 to 77.210 mm
Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.210 to 77.220 mm
Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.220 to 77.230 mm
Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.210 to 77.235 mm
Oversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.480 to 77.490 mm
Oversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.490 to 77.500 mm
Oversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.500 to 77.510 mm
Oversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.490 to 77.515 mm
Oversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.710 to 77.735 mm
 CVH engine repair procedures 2B•5

Cylinder head
Minimum combustion chamber depth (after refacing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.40 mm

Valve timing
Inlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° ATDC
Inlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30° ABDC
Exhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28° BBDC
Exhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° BTDC

Inlet valves
Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136.29 to 136.75 mm
Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.90 to 40.10 mm
Stem diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm
Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mm
Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm

Exhaust valves
Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.97 to 133.43 mm
Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.90 to 34.10 mm
Stem diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm
Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.199 to 8.217 mm
Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.399 to 8.417 mm

Lubrication system
Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rotor, driven by crankshaft
Oil pump clearances:
Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mm
Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.180 mm
Rotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm

as the cam followers are pressurised with oil. to draw the new seal into position against the
1 General information The distributor is driven from the rear stop. In view of this, partial removal of the
(flywheel) end of the camshaft. engine and transmission may well be 2B
The coolant pump is mounted on the timing necessary to renew this seal.
belt end of the cylinder block and is driven by
This engine, designated CVH (Compound the toothed belt.
Valve angle, Hemispherical combustion A gear type oil pump is mounted on the 3 Operations only possible
chamber) can be described in more timing belt end of the cylinder block and is with engine removed from
conventional terms as a four-cylinder driven by a gear on the front end of the vehicle
overhead camshaft (OHC) engine. It is crankshaft.
mounted, together with the transmission, A full-flow oil filter of throw-away type is The following work should be carried out
transversely at the front of the vehicle and located on the side of crankcase nearer the only after the engine has been removed:
transmits power through open driveshafts to front of the vehicle. a) Crankshaft main bearings - renewal
the front roadwheels. b) Crankshaft - removal and refitting
The engine is available in three capacities; c) *Flywheel - removal and refitting
1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre. The 1.4 litre engine being
2 Operations possible without
removing engine from d) ** Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal
introduced to replace the 1.3 litre unit during e) *Oil pump - removal and refitting
early 1986. vehicle
Although it is possible to undertake those
The crankshaft is supported in five main operations marked * without removing the
bearings within a cast iron crankcase. The The following work can be carried out
without having to remove the engine: engine, and those marked ** by removing the
cylinder head is of light alloy construction,
a) Timing belt - renewal transmission, such work is not recommended
supporting the overhead camshaft in five
b) Camshaft oil seal - renewal and is unlikely to save much time over that
bearings. These bearings cannot be renewed
and, in the event of wear occurring, the c) Camshaft - removal and refitting required to withdraw the complete
complete cylinder head must be changed. d) Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal* engine/transmission.
The fuel pump is mounted on the side of the e) Sump - removal and refitting
cylinder head and is driven by a pushrod from f) Piston/connecting rod - removal and
4 Timing belt - inspection,
an eccentric cam on the camshaft.
The cam followers are of the hydraulic type,
which eliminates the need for valve clearance
refitting
g) Engine/transmission mountings - removal
and refitting
removal and refitting 3
adjustment and also ensures that valve timing *Note: Replacement of the crankshaft front oil
is always correct. With this type of follower, if seal with the engine in situ is made difficult by
the engine has been standing idle for a period restricted access. Accurate fitting of the new
Inspection
of time, or after overhaul, when the engine is seal in this position will only be possible using 1 This operation will only normally be
started up valve clatter may be heard. This is Ford special tool number 21-093 (or a similar required at the specified timing belt renewal
a normal condition and will gradually fabricated distance piece) used, together with intervals (see Chapter 1), or for removal of the
disappear within a few minutes of starting up the crankshaft timing belt pulley retaining bolt, coolant pump.
2B•6 CVH engine repair procedures

7 Using a ring or socket spanner on the

crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft until
the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is
opposite the TDC mark on the cylinder head
and the small projection on the crankshaft belt
sprocket front flange is in alignment with the
TDC mark on the oil pump casing. Remove
the starter, jam the flywheel ring gear and
unbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley (see
illustrations).
8 Slacken the bolts which secure the belt
tensioner and using a large screwdriver, prise
the tensioner to one side to relieve spring
4.4a Undo the four retaining bolts 4.4b The 2-piece timing belt cover tension on the belt. (Some tensioners do not
(arrowed) to remove the timing cover - incorporate a spring.) Temporarily retighten
1-piece type the bolts.
9 If the original belt is to be refitted, mark it
2 Disconnect the battery earth lead. damaged or has worn prematurely, a check
for direction of travel and also the exact tooth
3 Release the alternator mounting and must be made to find the cause. There are
positions on all three sprockets.
adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in three main causes of timing belt failures and
10 Slip the timing belt from its sprockets.
towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from these are as follows:
the pulleys. a) If some of the teeth have sheared off and Refitting
4 On earlier models, unscrew the four some are badly worn, check the surface
11 Refit by reversing the removal operations,
retaining bolts and remove the timing belt of the crankshaft pulley teeth for signs of
but before engaging the belt to the camshaft
cover (see illustration). Note that a two-piece damage or defects and renew the pulley,
and crankshaft sprockets, check that they are
cover has been progressively introduced on if necessary.
set to TDC as previously described. Adjust the
all later models (see illustration). The upper b) If some belt teeth have sheared off and
position of the sprockets slightly if necessary,
half of the cover is visually similar to the earlier others are cracked at their roots, then this
but avoid any excessive movement of the
one-piece type and can be removed after indicates an excessive torque loading on
sprockets while the belt is off, as the piston
undoing the two retaining bolts. To withdraw the belt, and the water pump, distributor,
crowns and valve heads may make contact,
the lower half it will first be necessary to timing belt tensioner wheel and the
with consequent damage to both
remove the crankshaft pulley after which the camshaft must be checked for freedom of
components.
two retaining bolts can then be undone and movement. In the case of the camshaft
12 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of
the cover removed. the rockers must be removed when
the crankshaft sprocket (slip the sprocket off
5 The timing belt can now be inspected for checking it for freedom of rotation. Renew
signs of excessive wear or damage; if found, or repair as necessary before renewing the crankshaft if necessary to avoid kinking
the belt must be renewed. If the belt is the timing belt. the belt), and then pull the belt vertically
c) If some teeth have sheared from the belt upright on its right-hand run. Keep it taut and
whilst others are undamaged, the belt will engage it with the teeth of the camshaft
have jammed in the belt pulley or the sprocket. Check that the positions of the
engine has possibly been over-revved. crankshaft and camshaft sprockets have not
Check the items mentioned in (b) and altered.
renew as necessary. 13 Wind the belt around the camshaft
Note: In 1988, an improved timing belt was sprocket, around and under the tensioner idler
introduced (part no. 1653887) together with a pulley and over the coolant pump sprocket
modified tensioner pulley of larger diameter (no set position for this) (see illustration).
(part no. 6182891). If the belt is to be 14 Loosen the tensioner retaining bolts by
renewed, then the modified pulley must also half a turn each to allow the tensioner to snap
be renewed. into position against the timing belt.
15 With the crankshaft locked in position at
Removal TDC, fit a 41 mm socket and torque wrench
4.7a Camshaft sprocket timing mark 6 To remove the timing belt, proceed as onto the camshaft sprocket hexagon and
follows: apply an anti-clockwise torque in accordance

4.7b Align the crankshaft sprocket with its 4.7c One method of jamming the flywheel 4.7d . . . another method of jamming the
timing mark ring gear . . . flywheel ring gear
 CVH engine repair procedures 2B•7

with the settings given in the Specifications.

Whilst applying this torque setting to the
camshaft, simultaneously tighten the
tensioner retaining bolts, right-hand then left-
hand bolt, to their specified torque wrench
setting. This is an initial setting up procedure
only - the belt tension should be checked with
Ford tool 21-113: therefore the car will have to
be taken to a dealer as soon as possible (see
illustration).
16 Refit the crankshaft pulley, the retaining
bolt and washer, and tighten to the specified
torque wrench setting (see illustration).
17 Refit the belt cover, refit and adjust the 4.13 Timing belt correctly located 4.15 Method used to initially tension the
drivebelt, and reconnect the battery. timing belt
locking compound should be applied to the

3
5 Camshaft oil seal - renewal threads of the bolt.
7 Refit and tension the timing belt.
8 Reconnect the battery.

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.

2 Release the timing belt from the camshaft
sprocket.
3 Pass a bar through one of the holes in the
6 Camshaft - removal and
refitting 3
camshaft sprocket to anchor the sprocket
while the retaining bolt is unscrewed. Remove Removal
the sprocket.
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
4 Using a suitable tool, hooked at its end,
2 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
prise out the oil seal (see illustration). 4.16 Crankshaft pulley, bolt and washer
from the inlet manifold and the rocker cover.
5 Apply a little grease to the lips of the new
3 Extract the two larger screws from the lid of
seal and draw it into position using the 10 Remove the rocker cover (see
the air cleaner, raise the air cleaner,
sprocket bolt and a suitable distance piece illustration).
disconnect the hoses and remove the cleaner.
(see illustration). 11 Unscrew the securing nuts and remove
4 Disconnect the pipes and remove the 2B
6 Refit the sprocket, tightening the bolt to the the rocker arms and guides (see illustration).
windscreen washer fluid reservoir from the
specified torque wrench setting. Thread- Keep the components in their originally
engine compartment.
5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark installed sequence by marking them with a
plugs, then remove the distributor cap and piece of numbered tape or by using a suitably
secure it to the left-hand side of the engine sub-divided box.
compartment. 12 Withdraw the hydraulic cam followers,
6 Unscrew the three bolts and withdraw the again keeping them in their originally fitted
distributor from the cylinder head. Note that sequence (see illustration).
the distributor body is marked in relation to 13 Slacken the alternator mounting and
the cylinder head. adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in
7 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump, towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from
complete with coil spring. Withdraw the the pulleys.
insulating spacer and operating pushrod. 14 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover
8 Unbolt the throttle cable bracket at the and turn the crankshaft to align the timing
carburettor and then disconnect the cable by mark on the camshaft sprocket with the one
sliding back the spring clip. on the cylinder head.
5.4 Removing the camshaft oil seal 9 Remove the timing belt cover-to-cylinder
head attachment bolts.

6.11 Rocker arm components

5.5 Installing the camshaft oil seal 6.10 Remove the rocker cover A Rocker arm C Spacer plate
B Guide
2B•8 CVH engine repair procedures

6.12 Withdrawing a cam follower 6.16 Method used to loosen the camshaft 6.17a Unscrewing the camshaft thrust
sprocket bolt plate bolts
15 Slacken the bolts on the timing belt
tensioner, lever the tensioner against the
tension of its coil spring (if fitted) and retighten
the bolts. With the belt now slack, slip it from
the camshaft sprocket.
16 Pass a rod or large screwdriver through
one of the holes in the camshaft sprocket to
lock it and unscrew the sprocket bolt (see
illustration). Remove the sprocket.
17 Extract the two bolts and pull out the
camshaft thrust plate (see illustrations).
18 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
distributor end of the cylinder head (see
illustration). 6.17b Lifting out the camshaft thrust plate 6.18 Withdrawing the camshaft
Refitting
19 Refitting the camshaft is a reversal of 5 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the block, as it is located on dowels, and do not
removal, but observe the following points. automatic choke (if necessary). attempt to lever between the head and the
20 Lubricate the camshaft bearings before 6 Disconnect the throttle cable from the block, or damage will result.
inserting the camshaft into the cylinder head. carburettor.
21 It is recommended that a new oil seal is 7 Disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuel
Refitting
always fitted after the camshaft has been pump. 19 Before installing the cylinder head, make
installed. Apply thread-locking compound to 8 Disconnect the vacuum servo pipe from the sure that the mating surfaces of head and
the sprocket bolt threads. inlet manifold. block are perfectly clean with the head
22 Fit and tension the timing belt. 9 Disconnect the leads from the coolant locating dowels in position. Clean the bolt
23 Oil the hydraulic cam followers with temperature sender, the ignition coil, and the holes free from oil. In extreme cases it is
hypoid type transmission oil before inserting anti-run-on (anti-diesel) solenoid valve at the possible for oil left in the holes to crack the
them into their original bores. carburettor. block.
24 Refit the rocker arms and guides in their 10 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the 20 Turn the crankshaft to position No 1
original sequence, use new nuts and tighten manifold by unscrewing the flange nuts. piston about 20 mm (0.8 in) before it reaches
to the specified torque. It is essential that Support the exhaust pipe by tying it up with TDC.
before each rocker arm is installed and its nut wire. 21 Place a new gasket on the cylinder block
tightened, the respective cam follower is 11 Release the alternator mounting and (see illustration). The upper surface of the
positioned at its lowest point (in contact with adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in gasket is marked OBEN-TOP. Note that from
cam base circle). Turn the camshaft (by towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from 1986 onwards, the configuration of the holes
means of the crankshaft pulley bolt) as the pulleys. on the cylinder head gasket have been
necessary to achieve this. 12 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. changed from the earlier type and a different
25 Use a new rocker cover gasket. Do not 13 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts, lever the
forget to refit the timing belt cover bolts. tensioner to one side against the pressure of
the coil spring (if fitted) and retighten the bolts.
14 With the timing belt now slack, slip it from
7 Cylinder head - removal and
refitting 3 the camshaft sprocket.
15 Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs
and unscrew and remove the spark plugs.
16 Remove the rocker cover.
17 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts,
Removal progressively and in the reverse sequence to
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. that given for tightening. Discard the bolts, as
2 Remove the air cleaner and detach the new ones must be used at reassembly.
connecting hoses. 18 Remove the cylinder head complete with
3 Drain the cooling system. manifolds. Use the manifolds, if necessary, as
4 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the levers to rock the head from the block. Do not 7.21a Locate the new cylinder head
thermostat housing. attempt to tap the head sideways off the gasket
 CVH engine repair procedures 2B•9

7.21b Cylinder head gasket details

A Locating dowels C Top mark
B Gasket identification teeth 7.22a Refit the cylinder head
(1.4 litre version shown)

gasket is used for each size of engine. Identifi- With the belt slack, it can now be slipped from
cation is by teeth on the rear facing edge of
the gasket, as shown (see illustration),
according to engine type as follows:
1.6 litre 4 teeth
8 Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal 3 the sprockets. Before removing the belt note
its original position on the sprockets (mark the
teeth with quick-drying paint), also its
direction of travel.
1.4 litre 2 teeth Note: If replacing the oil seal with the power 6 Pull off the crankshaft sprocket. If it is tight,
22 Locate the cylinder head on its dowels unit in situ, first refer to the cautionary notes use a two-legged extractor.
(see illustration) and install and tighten the concerning its renewal in Section 2. 7 Remove the dished washer from the
new cylinder head bolts, tightening them in 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. crankshaft, noting that the concave side is
four stages (see Specifications). After the first 2 Release the alternator mounting and against the oil seal.
two stages, the bolt heads should be marked adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in 8 Using a hooked tool, prise out the oil seal
with a spot of quick-drying paint so that the towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from from the oil pump housing (see illustration).
paint spots all face the same direction. Now the pulleys. 9 Grease the lips of the new seal and press it 2B
tighten the bolts (Stage 3) through 90° 3 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover into position using the pulley bolt and a
(quarter turn) followed by a further 90° (Stage and by using a spanner or socket on the distance piece made from a piece of tubing.
4). Tighten the bolts at each stage only in the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft until 10 Fit the thrustwasher (concave side to oil
sequence shown (see illustration) before the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is in seal), the belt sprocket and the pulley to the
going on to the next stage. If all the bolts have alignment with the mark on the cylinder head. crankshaft.
been tightened equally, the paint spots should 4 Unbolt and withdraw the starter motor so 11 Fit and tension the timing belt.
now all be pointing in the same direction. that the flywheel ring gear can be jammed 12 Fit the timing belt cover.
23 Fit the timing belt. with a cold chisel or other suitable device and 13 Refit and tension the alternator drivebelt.
24 Refitting and reconnection of all other the crankshaft pulley unbolted and removed. 14 Remove the starter ring gear jamming
components is a reversal of dismantling. 5 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts, lever the device, refit the starter motor and reconnect
25 Refill the cooling system. tensioner to one side and retighten the bolts. the battery.

7.22b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 8.8 Extracting the oil seal from the oil pump housing
2B•10 CVH engine repair procedures

9.8a Sump front (A) and rear (B) sealing 9.8b Sump gasket to overlap sealing strip 9.8c Fitting the sump over a 4-piece
strip locations - 4-piece type - 4-piece type gasket
7 Remove the sump and peel away the retaining bolts finger tight (see
9 Sump - removal and refitting
3 gaskets and sealing strips.
Refitting
8 On the earlier four-piece gasket
illustration). Remove the studs and fit the
rest of the bolts.
c) Tighten the bolts evenly in two stages to
the specified torque.
arrangement, make sure that the mating Note that the one-piece gasket can be fitted
Removal surfaces of the sump and block are clean, to earlier engines provided that it is used in
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. then fit new end sealing strips into their conjunction with the modified sump.
2 Drain the engine oil. grooves and stick new side gaskets into 10 Refit the cover plate to the flywheel
3 Unbolt and remove the starter motor. position using thick grease. The ends of the housing (see illustration).
4 Unbolt and remove the cover plate from the side gaskets should overlap the seals. Offer 11 Refit the starter motor.
clutch housing. up the sump, taking care not to displace the 12 Fill the engine with oil and reconnect the
5 Unscrew the plastic timing belt guard from gaskets and insert the securing bolts (see battery.
the front end of the engine (two bolts). illustrations). Tighten the bolts in two stages
6 Unscrew the sump securing bolts to the final torque given in the Specifications.
progressively and remove them. Fit the timing belt guard.
9 In April 1985, a modified sump and one-
piece sump gasket were introduced to
10 Pistons/connecting rods -
removal and refitting 3
improve sealing in the region of the oil pump
and rear oil seal carrier- to-cylinder block Removal
joints. Removal and refitting procedures are 1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head.
essentially the same as for the earlier four- 2 Check that the connecting rod and cap have
piece gasket arrangement but note the adjacent numbers at their big-end to indicate
following when refitting: their position in the cylinder block (No 1
a) The gasket should be fitted dry but nearest timing cover end of engine) (see
jointing compound should be applied to illustration).
the oil pump and rear oil seal carrier-to- 3 Bring the first piston to the lowest point of
cylinder block joints as shown (see its throw by turning the crankshaft pulley bolt
illustration). and then check if there is a wear ridge at the
b) To aid installation , it is helpful if a few top of the bore. If there is, it should be
9.9a Sealing compound application area
studs can be screwed into the retaining removed using a scraper, but do not damage
for 1-piece sump gasket
bolt holes on each side to locate the the cylinder bore.
A Oil pump joint gasket as the sump is fitted. As the sump 4 Unscrew and remove the big-end bolts.
B Rear oil seal carrier joint is placed in position make sure that the 5 Tap off the cap. If the bearing shell is to be
Apply sealer to shaded area spacing pips in the sump face locate in used again, make sure that it is retained with
the holes in the gasket, then fit the the cap. Note the two cap positioning roll pins.

9.9b Ensure spacing pips and gasket

holes (inset) engage when fitting modified 9.10 Fit the flywheel housing cover plate 10.2 Connecting rod and big-end cap
sump and 1-piece gasket matching numbers (arrowed)
 CVH engine repair procedures 2B•11

10.8 Piston ring end gap positioning 10.10 Fit the bearing shell to the 10.12 Installing a piston/connecting rod
connecting rod assembly

10.14 Fit the bearing shell to the big-end 10.15a Fit the big-end cap . . . 10.15b . . . and tighten the retaining bolts
cap
6 Push the piston/rod out of the top of the 16 Repeat the operations on the remaining
block, again keeping the bearing shell with the
rod if the shell is to be used again.
7 Repeat the removal operations on the
pistons/connecting rods.
17 Refit the sump and the cylinder head.
18 Refill the engine with oil and coolant.
13 Engine/transmission -
removal and separation 4 2B
remaining piston/rod assemblies.
Note: Proceed as described for the OHV
Refitting
8 To refit a piston/rod assembly, have the
piston ring gaps staggered as shown (see
11 Engine/transmission
mountings - removal and
refitting
3 engine in Chapter 2A, Section 12 but note the
following differences:
1 A lateral coolant pipe is not fitted to the side
illustration). Oil the rings and apply a piston of the cylinder block on the CVH variants but
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 11.
ring compressor. Compress the piston rings. the heater hoses must be disconnected from
9 Oil the cylinder bores. the thermostat housing and distribution (see
10 Wipe clean the bearing shell seat in the
connecting rod and insert the shell (see
illustration).
12 Oil filter - renewal
2 illustrations).
2 When disconnecting the driveshafts,
disregard paragraphs 20 to 26 as they can be
11 Insert the piston/rod assembly into the detached by undoing the socket-head bolts.
cylinder bore until the base of the piston ring 1 The oil filter is of throw-away, screw-on These can be loosened using a 6mm Allen
compressor stands squarely on the top of the cartridge type, mounted on the right-hand key.
block. side of the crankcase. 3 Disconnect the right-hand shaft just to the
12 Check that the directional arrow on the 2 Renewal is described in Chapter 1, Section 3. right of the intermediate shaft support
piston crown faces towards the timing cover
end of the engine, then apply the wooden
handle of a hammer to the piston crown.
Strike the head of the hammer sharply to drive
the piston into the cylinder bore and release
the ring compressor (see illustration).
13 Oil the crankpin and draw the connecting
rod down to engage with the crankshaft.
Make sure the bearing shell is still in position.
14 Wipe the bearing shell seat in the big-end
cap clean and insert the bearing shell (see
illustration).
15 Fit the cap, screw in the bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque (see 13.1a Thermostat housing hose 13.1b Radiator bottom hose and
illustrations). connections distribution piece
2B•12 CVH engine repair procedures

9 With the belt now slack, note its running

direction and mark the mating belt and
sprocket teeth with a spot of quick-drying
paint. This is not necessary if the belt is being
renewed.
10 Disconnect the spark plug leads and
remove the distributor cap complete with HT
leads.
11 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.
12 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from its connector on the crankcase (see
illustration).
13 Remove the rocker cover (see
13.6a Attach engine support sling to 13.6b Engine and gearbox assembly illustration).
points indicated (arrowed) lowered onto trolley for removal from
14 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts in the
underneath the car
reverse order to tightening and discard them.
bracket. Remove the bolts, together with the New bolts must be used at reassembly.
link washers, and detach the shaft, but do not
let it hang freely; support it by suspending
with a suitable length of wire. The right-hand
intermediate shaft can be left in position
14 Engine - dismantling
4 15 Remove the cylinder head, complete with
manifolds.
16 Turn the engine on its side. Do not invert it
as sludge in the sump may enter the oilways.
during removal of the engine/transmission. 1 The need for dismantling will have been Remove the sump bolts, withdraw the sump
4 Disconnect the inner end of the left-hand dictated by wear or noise in most cases. and peel off the gaskets and sealing strips.
driveshaft by unscrewing and removing the Although there is no reason why only partial 17 Remove the bolts from the clutch
socket-head bolts and three link washers. dismantling cannot be carried out to renew such pressure plate in a progressive manner until
Suspend the driveshaft with wire. Note that items as the oil pump or crankshaft rear oil seal, the pressure of the assembly is relieved and
there is no need to disconnect the steering when the main bearings or big-end bearings then remove the cover, taking care not to
track-rod balljoint and lower suspension arm have been knocking, and especially if the vehicle allow the driven plate (friction disc) to fall to
pivot or tie-rod to enable the has covered a high mileage, it is recommended the floor.
engine/transmission to be removed and that a complete strip-down be carried out and 18 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. The bolt
refitted. every engine component examined. holes are offset so it will only fit one way.
5 Remove the intermediate shaft once the 2 Unbolt and remove the engine bearer and 19 Remove the engine adapter plate.
engine/transmission is removed, to allow for mountings. Position the engine so that it is 20 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oil
their subsequent separation. upright and safely chocked on a bench or
6 Support and lower the engine/transmission seal retainer (see illustration).
other convenient working surface. If the 21 Unbolt and remove the timing belt
(see illustrations). exterior of the engine is very dirty it should be tensioner and take out the coil spring. (This
cleaned before dismantling, using paraffin and
spring is not used on all models) (see
a stiff brush or a water-soluble solvent.
illustration).
3 Remove the alternator, the mounting
22 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump.
bracket and exhaust heat shield, and the
23 Remove the belt sprocket from the
adjuster link.
crankshaft using the hands or, if tight, a two-
4 Disconnect the heater hose from the
coolant pump. legged puller. Take off the dished washer.
5 Drain the engine oil and remove the filter. 24 Unbolt the oil pump and pick-up tube and
6 Jam the flywheel starter ring gear to prevent remove them as an assembly.
the crankshaft from turning and unscrew the 25 Unscrew and remove the oil pressure
crankshaft pulley bolt. Remove the pulley. switch (see illustration).
7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. 26 Turn the crankshaft so that all the pistons
8 Slacken the two bolts on the timing belt are half-way down the bores, and feel if a
tensioner, lever the tensioner against its wear ridge exists at the top of the bores. If so,
14.12 Crankcase ventilation hose
spring pressure and tighten the bolts to lock it scrape the ridge away, taking care not to
attachment
in position. damage the bores.

14.13 Lift the rocker cover clear 14.20 Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer 14.21 Remove the timing belt tensioner
 CVH engine repair procedures 2B•13

3 The lower (oil control) ring must be fitted so

that the manufacturer’s mark is towards the
piston crown, or the groove towards the
gudgeon pin. Take care that the rails of the oil
control ring abut without overlapping.
Timing sprockets and belt
4 It is very rare for the teeth of the sprockets
to wear, but attention should be given to the
tensioner idler pulley. It must turn freely and
smoothly, be ungrooved and without any
shake in its bearing. Otherwise renew it.
5 Always renew the coil spring (if fitted) in the
14.25 Unscrew the oil pressure switch 14.34 Crankcase ventilation baffle tensioner. If the engine has covered 50 000
(arrowed) miles (80 000 km) then it is recommended that
27 Inspect the big-end and main bearing bearing. Keep the shells identified as to a new belt be fitted, even if the original one
caps for markings. The main bearings should position in the crankcase if they are to be appears in good condition.
be marked 1 to 5 with a directional arrow used again. Flywheel
pointing to the timing cover end. The big-end 34 Prise down the spring arms of the
caps and connecting rods should have crankcase ventilation baffle and remove it 6 Refer to the information given in Section 14,
adjacent matching numbers. Number 1 is at from inside the crankcase just below the Chapter 2A.
the timing cover end of the engine. Make your ventilation hose connection (see illustration). Oil pump
own marks if necessary. 35 The engine is now completely dismantled
28 Unscrew the bolts from the first big-end and each component should be examined 7 From 1986 onwards the previously used
cap and remove the cap. The cap is located before reassembling. gear type oil pump has been superseded by a
on two roll pins, so if the cap requires tapping new low friction rotor type pump (see
off make sure that it is not tapped in a illustrations).
sideways direction.
29 Retain the bearing shell with the cap if the
shell is to be used again.
15 Engine - examination and
renovation 3 8 The examination and renovation procedures
are the same for each type of pump.
9 Wear limit tolerances are supplied for both
30 Push the piston/connecting rod out of the pump types and the clearances can be
top of the cylinder block, again retaining the checked with a feeler blade as follows.
bearing shell with the rod if the shell is to be
Crankshaft bearings, cylinder 10 Measure the inner-to-outer rotor
bores and pistons clearance by inserting the feeler blade
used again. 2B
31 Remove the remaining pistons/rods in a 1 Refer to paragraphs 1 to 15 of Section 14, between the peak of one of the inner rotor
similar way. Chapter 2A. The information applies equally to gear teeth or lobes, and the outer rotor.
32 Remove the main bearing caps, keeping the CVH engine, except that standard sized 11 Measure the outer rotor-to-housing
the shells with their respective caps if the crankshafts are unmarked and the following clearance by inserting the feeler blade between
shells are to be used again. Lift out the differences in the piston rings should be the outer rotor and the pump body wall.
crankshaft. noted. 12 Measure the rotor to cover endfloat by
33 Take out the bearing shells from the 2 The top rings are coated with molybdenum. placing a straight edge across the pump body
crankcase, noting the semi-circular Avoid damaging the coating when fitting the face and inserting a feeler blade between the
thrustwashers on either side of the centre rings to the pistons. straight edge and the rotors.

15.7a Exploded view of the gear type oil pump 15.7b Exploded view of the rotor type oil pump

A Relief valve D Cover plate A Pressure relief valve C Inner rotor

B Driven gear E Oil return pipe B Outer rotor D Oil pump cover
C Drive gear
2B•14 CVH engine repair procedures

13 If any of the measured clearances are Cylinder head and rocker arms 35 To check for wear in the valve guides,
outside the tolerances given in the Specifica- place each valve in turn in its guide so that
25 The usual reason for dismantling the
tions, renew the pump. Note that the rotor cylinder head is to decarbonise and to grind in approximately one third of its length enters
type pump can only be fitted to post-1986 the valves. Reference should therefore be the guide. Rock the valve from side to side. If
engines due to the modified drive slot on the made to the next Section in addition to the any more than the slightest movement is
front of the crankshaft. dismantling operations described here. possible, the guides will have to be reamed
26 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds (working from the valve seat end) and oversize
Oil seals and gaskets stemmed valves fitted. If you do not have the
and their gaskets, also the thermostat
14 Renew the oil seals in the oil pump and in housing. necessary reamer (Tool No 21-071 to 21-074),
the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer as a matter 27 Unscrew the nuts from the rocker arms leave this work to your Ford dealer.
of routine at time of major overhaul. It is and discard the nuts. New ones must be fitted 36 Examine the valve seats. Normally the
recommended that the new seals should be at reassembly. seats do not deteriorate but the valve heads
drawn into these components using a nut and 28 Remove the rocker arms and the are more likely to burn away, in which case
bolt and distance pieces, rather than tapping hydraulic cam followers, keeping them in their new valves can be ground in. If the seats
them into position, to avoid distortion of the originally fitted sequence. Keep the rocker require recutting, use a standard cutter,
light alloy castings. guide and spacer plates in order. available from most accessory or tool stores.
15 Renew the camshaft oil seal after the 29 The camshaft need not be withdrawn but 37 Renewal of any valve seat which is
camshaft has been installed. if it is wished to do so, first remove the thrust cracked or beyond recutting is definitely a job
16 Always smear the lips of a new oil seal plate and take the camshaft out from the rear for your dealer or motor engineering works.
with grease, and check that the small of the cylinder head. 38 If the rocker arm studs must be removed
tensioner spring in the oil seal has not been 30 The valve springs should now be for any reason, a special procedure is
displaced during installation. compressed. A standard type of compressor necessary. Warm the upper ends of the studs
17 Renew all gaskets by purchasing the will normally do the job, but a forked tool (Part with a blow-lamp flame (not a welder) before
appropriate engine set, which usually includes No 21-097) can be purchased or made up to unscrewing them. Clean out the cylinder head
the necessary oil seals. engage on the rocker stud using a nut and threads with an M10 tap and clean the
distance piece to compress it (see threads of oil or grease. Discard the old studs
Crankcase illustration). and fit new ones, which will be coated with
18 Refer to the information given in Section 31 Compress the valve spring and extract the adhesive compound on their threaded
14, Chapter 2A. split collets. Do not overcompress the spring, portion. Screw in the studs without pausing,
or the valve stem may bend. If it is found otherwise the adhesive will start to set and
Camshaft and bearings when screwing down the compressor tool prevent the stud seating.
19 Examine the camshaft gear and lobes for that the spring retainer does not release from 39 If the cylinder head mating surface is
damage or wear. If evident, a new camshaft the collets, remove the compressor and place suspected of being distorted, it can be
must be purchased, or one which has been a piece of tubing on the retainer so that it checked and surface ground by your dealer or
built-up, such as are advertised by firms does not impinge on the collets and place a motor engineering works. Distortion is
specialising in exchange components. small block of wood under the head of the possible with this type of light alloy head if the
20 The bearing internal diameters in the valve. With the cylinder head resting flat down bolt tightening method is not followed exactly,
cylinder head should be checked against the on the bench, strike the end of the tubing a or if severe overheating has taken place.
Specifications if a suitable gauge is available, sharp blow with a hammer. Refit the 40 Check the rocker arm contact surfaces for
otherwise check for movement between the compressor and compress the spring. wear. Renew the valve springs if they have
camshaft journal and the bearing. If the 32 Extract the split collets and then gently been in service for 50 000 miles (80000 km) or
bearings are proved to be worn, then a new release the compressor and remove it. more.
cylinder head is the only answer as the 33 Remove the valve spring retainer, the
41 Commence reassembly of the cylinder
bearings are machined directly in the cylinder spring and the valve stem oil seal (see
head by fitting new valve stem oil seals (see
head. illustration). Withdraw the valve.
illustrations).
21 Check the camshaft endfloat by 34 Valve removal should commence with No
42 Oil No 1 valve stem and insert the valve
temporarily refitting the camshaft and thrust 1 valve (nearest timing cover end). Keep the
into its guide (see illustration).
valves and their components in their originally
plate. If the endfloat exceeds the specified 43 Fit the valve spring (closer coils to cylinder
installed order by placing them in a piece of
tolerance, renew the thrust plate. head), then the spring retainer (see
card which has holes punched in it and
illustrations).
Cam followers numbered 1 to 8.
22 It is seldom that the hydraulic type cam
followers (tappets) wear in their cylinder head
bores. If the bores are worn then a new
cylinder head is called for.
23 If the cam lobe contact surface shows
signs of a depression or grooving, grinding
out the wear surface will not only remove the
hardened surface of the follower but may also
reduce its overall length to a point where the
self-adjusting capability of the cam follower is
exceeded and the valve clearances are not
taken up, with consequent noisy operation.
24 The cam follower cannot be dismantled
for renewal of individual components. In the 15.30 Special valve spring compressing 15.33 Valve stem oil seal can be prised
event of excessive wear or damage, it should tool free
be renewed.
 CVH engine repair procedures 2B•15

15.41a Using a socket to install a valve 15.41b Valve stem oil seal fitted 15.42 Insert a valve into its guide
stem oil seal

15.43a Locate the valve spring . . . 15.43b . . . and the valve spring retainer 15.44 Compress the spring and insert the
split collet
44 Compress the spring and engage the split 49 Fit the rocker arms with their guides and
collets in the cut-out in the valve stem (see spacer plates, use new nuts and tighten to the
illustration). Hold them in position while the specified torque. It is important that each 2B
compressor is gently released and removed. rocker arm is installed only when its particular
45 Repeat the operations on the remaining cam follower is at its lowest point (in contact
valves, making sure that each valve is with the cam base circle) (see illustrations).
returned to its original guide or, if new valves 50 Refit the exhaust and inlet manifolds and
have been fitted, into the seat into which it
the thermostat housing, using all new
was ground.
gaskets.
46 Once all the valves have been fitted,
support the ends of the cylinder head on two
wooden blocks and strike the end of each 16 Cylinder head and pistons -
valve stem with a plastic or copper-faced
hammer, just a light blow to settle the
components.
decarbonising
3 15.48 Inserting a hydraulic cam follower
47 Fit the camshaft (if removed) and a new oil
seal. Refer to the procedure given in Chapter 2A,
48 Smear the hydraulic cam followers with whilst noting that the cylinder head is of light
hypoid type transmission oil and insert them alloy construction and thus avoiding the use
into their original bores (see illustration). of a rotary (power-driven) wire brush.

15.49a Fitting a rocker arm spacer plate 15.49b Fit the rocker arm and guide 15.49c Tighten the rocker arm nut
2B•16 CVH engine repair procedures

17.1 Crankcase ventilation baffle 17.2 Main bearing upper shell fitting 17.3 Locate the crankshaft thrustwasher

17.4 Install the crankshaft 17.5a Fit the bearing shells to the main 17.5b . . . then fit the caps . . .
bearing caps . . .
bearing caps, making sure that their seats are 8 The pistons/connecting rods should now
17 Engine - reassembly
4 perfectly clean. Oil the bearings and install the
caps to their correct numbered location and
with the directional arrow pointing towards
be installed. Although new pistons will have
been fitted to the rods by your dealer or
supplier with the piston crown arrow or cast
nipple in the piston oil cut-out pointing
the timing belt end of the engine (see
1 With everything clean and parts renewed illustrations). towards the timing belt end of the engine, the
where necessary, commence reassembly by 6 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the F mark on the connecting rod or the oil
inserting the ventilation baffle into the ejection hole in the rod big-end is as shown
specified torque.
crankcase. Make sure that the spring arms (see illustration).
7 Check the crankshaft endfloat. Ideally a dial
engage securely (see illustration). 9 Oil the cylinder bores and install the
gauge should be used, but feeler blades are an pistons/connecting rods.
2 Insert the bearing half shells into their seats alternative if inserted between the face of the
in the crankcase, making sure that the seats 10 Fit the oil pressure switch and tighten.
thrustwasher and the machined surface of the 11 Before fitting the oil pump, action must be
are perfectly clean (see illustration).
crankshaft balance web, having first prised the taken to prevent damage to the pump oil seal
3 Stick the semi-circular thrustwashers on
either side of the centre bearing with thick crankshaft in one direction and then the other from the step on the front end of the
grease. Make sure that the oil channels face (see illustration). Provided the thrustwashers crankshaft. First remove the Woodruff key and
outwards (see illustration). at the centre bearing have been renewed, the then build up the front end of the crankshaft
4 Oil the bearing shells and carefully lower endfloat should be within specified tolerance.
the crankshaft into position (see illustration). If it is not, oversize thrustwashers are available
5 Insert the bearing shells into the main (see Specifications).

17.8 Piston/connecting rod orientation

A Arrow points towards timing belt end

B Cast nipple position
17.5c . . . ensuring that they are positioned 17.7 Check crankshaft endfloat using a C Cast F mark on connecting rod
correctly according to their markings feeler blade D Oil ejection hole
 CVH engine repair procedures 2B•17

17.11 Tape the front end of the crankshaft 17.13 Oil pump ready for fitting 17.14 Insert the crankshaft Woodruff key
to protect the oil pump seal when fitting

17.15 Fit the oil pump pick-up tube 17.16 Locate the thrustwasher . . . 17.17 . . . then the crankshaft timing belt
retaining bolts sprocket
using adhesive tape to form a smooth inclined 12 If the oil pump is new, pour some oil into it shaft has been smeared with a little grease
surface to permit the pump seal to slide over before installation in order to prime it and before fitting (see illustration).
the step without turning back its lip or rotate its driving gear a few turns. 18 Install the coolant pump using a new 2B
displacing the seal spring during installation 13 Align the pump gear flats with those on gasket (see illustration) and tightening the
(see illustration). the crankshaft and install the oil pump, bolts to the specified torque.
complete with new gasket (see illustration). 19 Fit the timing belt tensioner and its coil
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. spring (where fitted). Lever the tensioner fully
14 Remove the adhesive tape and tap the against the spring pressure and temporarily
Woodruff key into its groove (see tighten the bolts.
illustration). 20 Using a new gasket, bolt on the rear oil
15 Bolt the oil pump pick-up tube into seal retainer, which will have been fitted with a
position (see illustration). new oil seal and the seal lips greased (see
16 To the front end of the crankshaft, fit the
illustration).
dished thrustwasher (belt guide) so that its
21 Engage the engine adapter plate on its
concave side is towards the pump (see
locating dowels and then offer up the
illustration).
flywheel. It will only go on in one position as it
17 Fit the crankshaft belt sprocket. If it is
tight, draw it into position using the pulley bolt has offset holes (see illustrations). Insert new
and a distance piece. Make sure that the belt bolts and tighten to the specified torque. The
17.18 Fit the coolant pump retaining flange of the sprocket is towards the bolts are pre-coated with thread sealant.
front of the crankshaft and the nose of the 22 Fit the clutch and centralise it.

17.20 Locate the crankshaft rear oil seal 17.21a Locate the engine adapter plate . . . 17.21b . . . followed by the flywheel
and retainer
2B•18 CVH engine repair procedures

17.24a Refit the exhaust manifold . . . 17.24b . . . and hot air ducting 17.24c Engine lift hook is fitted with the
inlet manifold
23 Fit the sump and the cylinder head, 34 Fit the distributor cap and reconnect the 5 Refit the flange bolts and locate the engine
referring to the appropriate Sections of this HT leads. bearer and mounting brackets with the stay
Chapter. 35 Check the tightness of the oil drain plug rod (see illustrations). Tighten the bolts.
24 Refit the manifolds (see illustrations). and insert the dipstick. 6 Refit the intermediate driveshaft.
25 Install and tension the timing belt.
26 Using a new gasket, fit the rocker cover. Refitting
18 Engine/transmission -
Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
27 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation
reconnection and refitting 4 7 The refitting procedures are similar to those
given for the OHV engines in Chapter 2A.
8 Once the engine/transmission is raised and
hoses between the rocker cover and the the mountings are secured, the lift sling can
crankcase. 1 This is a direct reversal of removal and be disconnected and the driveshaft
28 Screw in a new set of spark plugs, separation of the engine from the reconnected. Insert the driveshaft securing
correctly gapped, and tighten to the specified transmission. Take care not to damage the bolts, together with the link washers, and
torque - this is important. If the specified radiator or front wings during installation. tighten them to their specified torque wrench
torque is exceeded, the plugs may be
setting (see Chapter 8).
impossible to remove. Reconnection 9 Reconnect the gearchange rod and
29 Fit the timing belt cover. 2 Check that the clutch driven plate has been stabilizer rod, adjusting them as described in
30 Fit the crankshaft pulley (if not done
centralised and that the pressure plate bolts Section 17 of Chapter 2A.
already) and tighten the bolt to the specified
are tightened to the specified torque (see 10 Once the engine is running, check the
torque while the flywheel ring gear is locked to
Chapter 6). timing, idle speed and mixture adjustment.
prevent it from turning.
31 Smear the sealing ring of a new oil filter 3 Make sure that the engine adapter plate is 11 If a number of new internal components
with a little grease, and screw it into position correctly located on its positioning dowels. have been installed, run the vehicle at a
using hand pressure only. 4 Smear the splines of the transmission input restricted speed for the first few hundred
32 Install the engine mounting brackets, if shaft with a little grease and then, supporting miles to allow time for the new components to
removed (see illustration). the weight of the transmission, connect it to bed in. It is also recommended that, with a
33 Refit the ancillaries. The alternator bracket the engine by passing the input shaft through new or rebuilt engine, the engine oil and filter
and alternator, the fuel pump, the thermostat the splined hub of the clutch plate until the be changed at the end of the running-in
housing and the distributor. transmission locates on the dowels. period.

17.32 Engine mounting unit - right-hand 18.5a Engine/gearbox bearer mounting 18.5b Opposing engine/gearbox mounting
rear bracket and stay rod bracket
 3•1

Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Contents
Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Heater - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Coolant temperature gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . .14 Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Heater controls - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Heater controls - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Expansion tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Radiator - removal, repair and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Radiator fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Heater - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
3
Specifications
System type ........................................... Radiator with expansion tank, belt-driven coolant pump and electric
radiator fan. Semi-pressurised system on 1.0 and 1.1 litre engines;
fully pressurised on 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines

Radiator
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crossflow, fin on tube
Pressure cap rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 kgf/cm2

Thermostat
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wax
Opening temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85° to 89°C (185° to 192°F)
Fully open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99° to 102°C (210° to 216°F)

Coolant pump
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Centrifugal with vee belt drive (OHV) or driven from toothed timing belt
(CVH)
Drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm total deflection at centre of longest run

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Thermostat housing bolts:
OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14
CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Coolant pump pulley bolts (OHV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Fan shroud-to-radiator bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Fan motor-to-shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Radiator drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1
3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Precautions
1 General information and
precautions Warning: Antifreeze mixture is
poisonous. Keep it out of reach
of children and pets. Wash
2 Cooling system - draining,
flushing, refilling 1
splashes off skin and clothing
General information with plenty of water. Wash splashes off Refer to Chapter 1, Section 36.
The cooling system on all models consists vehicle paintwork to avoid discolouration.
of a radiator, a coolant pump, a thermostat
and an electrically-operated radiator fan. The
system is pressurised and incorporates an
overflow container. The system used on the
Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewed
at the specified intervals to preserve its anti-
3 Thermostat - removal, testing
and refitting 2
OHV engine differs from that used on the CVH corrosive properties. In climates where
engine in layout and location of components. antifreeze protection is unnecessary, a Removal
The coolant pump on the OHV engine is corrosion inhibitor may be used instead -
consult a Ford dealer. Never run the engine 1 Drain the cooling system.
driven by the alternator drivebelt, while the
for long periods with plain water as coolant. 2 Loosen the retaining clips and detach the
pump on the CVH engines is driven by the
Only use the specified antifreeze as inferior degas and radiator top hoses from the
toothed timing belt.
brands may not contain the necessary thermostat housing. On the CVH engine, also
The cooling system operates in the
corrosion inhibitors, or may break down at detach the heater hoses.
following way. When the coolant is cold, the
thermostat is shut and coolant flow is high temperatures. Antifreeze containing 3 Disconnect the lead from the thermal
restricted to the cylinder block, cylinder head, methanol is to be avoided, as the methanol switch on the thermostat housing (see
inlet manifold and the vehicle interior heater evaporates. illustration).
matrix. As the temperature of the coolant rises 4 Unscrew and remove the retaining bolts,
Warning: Take particular care then lift clear the thermostat housing (see
the thermostat opens, allowing initially partial
when working under the bonnet illustration).
and then full circulation of the coolant through
with the engine running, or 5 Prise free and lift out the thermostat, noting
the radiator. If the vehicle is in forward motion
ignition switched on, on its orientation. On the CVH engine, detach the
then the inrush of air cools the coolant as it
vehicles fitted with a temperature-
passes across the radiator. If the coolant circlip to allow the thermostat to be removed
controlled radiator cooling fan. As the
temperature rises beyond a predetermined together with its O-ring (see illustrations).
coolant temperature rises the fan may
level, due for example to ascending a gradient
or being held up in a traffic jam, then the
suddenly actuate so make sure that ties, Testing
clothing, hair and hands are away from 6 To test the thermostat, first check that in a
electric fan will cut in to supplement normal
the fan. Remember that the coolant cold condition its valve plate is closed. Suspend
cooling.
temperature will continue to rise for a it in a pan of water and gradually heat the water
The expansion tank is of the degas type
short time after the engine is switched off. (see illustration). At, or near boiling, the valve
and the necessary pressure/vacuum relief
valve is incorporated in the tank cap. plate should be fully open. A more accurate

3.3 Disconnect the fan thermal switch lead 3.4 Thermostat housing and retaining 3.5a Thermostat retaining clip - CVH
- OHV bolts - CVH

3.5b Remove the thermostat . . . 3.5c . . . and seal ring - CVH 3.6 Thermostat checking method
 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3

3.7 Thermostat refitted (CVH) with new 4.2 Radiator fan wiring connector (A) and 4.3 Radiator fan shroud securing bolts
hoses and clips wire retaining clip (B) (arrowed)
assessment of the opening and closing points 8 Reassembly and refitting are reversals of 7 If the radiator is leaking, it is recommended
of the thermostat can be made if a thermometer the removal and dismantling operations. that a reconditioned or new one is obtained
is placed in the water and results compared from specialists. In an emergency, minor leaks
with the temperatures given in the Specifica- from the radiator can be cured by using a
tions. Check that the thermostat closes again
as the water cools down.
Refitting
5 Radiator - removal, repair and
refitting 2 radiator sealant. If the radiator, due to neglect,
requires the application of chemical cleaners,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions
precisely and appreciate that there is an
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Always element of risk in the use of most de-scaling
use a new gasket and apply a little jointing Removal
products, especially in a system which
compound to the threads of the thermostat 1 Drain the cooling system. Retain the incorporates alloy and plastic materials.
housing bolts before screwing them in. Use coolant if it is fit for further service.
new hoses and clips where necessary (see 2 Release the retaining clips and disconnect Refitting
illustration). all the hoses from the radiator (see 8 Refit the radiator by reversing the removal
illustrations). operations, but make sure that the rubber lug
3 Disconnect the wiring plug from the rear of insulators at its base are in position.
4 Radiator fan - removal and
refitting 2 the radiator fan motor.
4 Unscrew and remove the two mounting
bolts (see illustration) and carefully lift the
9 Refill the system.

1 Disconnect the battery.

2 Pull the wiring connector plug from the rear
of the fan motor and unclip the wiring from the
radiator, complete with cowl and fan, from the
engine compartment. The base of the radiator
is held in place by lugs.
6 Coolant pump - removal and
refitting 3 3
fan cowl (see illustration). Repair
3 Unscrew the two fan retaining bolts from 5 If the purpose of removal was to thoroughly OHV engine
the base of the cowl, followed by the two clean the radiator, first reverse flush it with a
cold water hose. The normal coolant flow is Removal
upper bolts (see illustration).
4 Carefully lift the fan assembly from the from left to right (from the thermostat housing 1 Drain the cooling system.
engine compartment, taking care not to to the radiator) through the matrix and out of 2 Release the coolant pump pulley bolts now
damage the radiator. the opposite side. while the drivebelt is still in position. Any
5 If removing the fan from the motor shaft, 6 If the radiator fins are clogged with dirt, tendency for the pulley to turn as the bolts are
first mark their relative fitted positions to remove it with a soft brush or blow unscrewed can be restrained by depressing
ensure correct realignment on assembly. compressed air from the rear of the radiator. It the top run of the belt.
6 Extract the retaining clip and take off the is recommended that the fan assembly is first 3 Release the alternator mounting and
fan from the motor shaft. removed. In the absence of a compressed air adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in
7 Unscrew the three nuts and separate the line, a strong jet from a water hose may towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from
motor from the shroud. provide an alternative method of cleaning. the coolant pump pulley.

5.2a Disconnect the radiator top hose . . . 5.2b . . . the bottom hose and expansion 5.4 Radiator left-hand mounting bolt
tank hose (arrowed)
3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

6.12 Timing marks - CVH 6.16 Slacken the timing belt tensioner 6.19 Coolant pump unit retaining bolts
bolts (arrowed) (arrowed)
4 Disconnect the coolant hose from the the crankshaft sprocket tensioner pulley and 3 Unscrew and remove the retaining screw
pump. Remove the previously slackened the coolant pump sprocket. and withdraw the expansion tank.
pulley bolts and take off the pulley. 17 Release the clamps and disconnect the 4 Refit in the reverse order to removal and
5 Unbolt the coolant pump and remove it. hoses from the coolant pump. top-up the cooling system.
6 Peel away the old gasket from the engine 18 Remove the timing belt tensioner.
block and clean the surface. 19 Unscrew the four bolts and remove the
7 No provision is made for repair and if the
pump is leaking or noisy it should be renewed.
Refitting
coolant pump from the engine cylinder block
(see illustration).
20 No provision is made for repair and if the
9 Heater controls - adjustment
2
pump is leaking or noisy it must be renewed.
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new 1 The heater control cables are adjusted from
gasket, smeared with jointing compound, and Refitting
the control unit.
apply the same compound to the threads of 21 Clean away the old gasket and ensure 2 Move the controls to their top and bottom
the fixing bolts. Tighten the bolts to the that the mating surfaces of the pump and stops to set the adjustment. When moving the
specified torque. block are perfectly clean. controls to the stop positions, a considerable
9 Adjust the drivebelt tension and refill the 22 Position a new gasket (on the cylinder amount of resistance will be felt.
cooling system. block) which has been smeared both sides
with jointing compound. Offer up the coolant
CVH engine
Removal
10 Drain the cooling system.
pump, screw in the bolts and tighten to the
specified torque.
23 Fit the belt tensioner, but with the
10 Heater controls - removal
and refitting 3
mounting bolts only screwed in loosely.
11 Release the alternator mountings and
24 Reconnect and tension the timing belt.
adjuster strap bolt, push the alternator in
25 Refit the timing belt cover. Base and L models
towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
26 Fit the alternator drivebelt and tension it.
the pulley. 2 From inside the vehicle, remove the dash
27 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the pump
12 Apply a spanner to the crankshaft pulley lower trim panel on each side (left and right).
and the bottom hose to the radiator.
bolt and turn the crankshaft until the notch on The panels are secured by tags and clips.
28 Fill the cooling system.
the pulley is opposite the TDC mark on the 3 Remove the retaining screws and withdraw
belt cover scale (see illustration). the upper steering column shroud.
13 Remove the timing belt cover. Note that
on engines fitted with the later type two-piece
cover, it is not possible to remove the cover
lower half unless the crankshaft pulley is
7 Drivebelt - removal, refitting
and tensioning 2 4 Withdraw the ashtray from the facia panel.
5 Pull free and remove the heater and
ventilation control knobs (see illustration).
removed first. However, if the two lower cover
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 20.
retaining bolts are removed, the cover can be
moved away from the engine sufficiently for

1
the pump to be removed and refitted with the 8 Expansion tank - removal and
cover still in place. refitting
14 Check that the camshaft and the
crankshaft sprockets are aligned with their
timing marks. This will prove that No 1 piston
is at top dead centre, not No 4 piston. If the
marks are not aligned, turn the crankshaft Warning: If the cooling system
through another complete turn. is hot, release the pressure cap
15 Using a spot of quick-drying paint, mark slowly having covered it with a
the teeth of the belt and their notches on the cloth to avoid any possibility of
sprockets so that the belt can be re-engaged scalding. 10.5 Heating and ventilation controls -
in its original position in relation to the 1 Position a suitable container beneath the Base and L models
sprocket teeth. expansion (degas) tank then loosen the tank Left-hand drive shown
16 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts (see hoses and drain the coolant from the tank. A Two-stage fan switch
illustration) and slide the tensioner to relieve 2 Disconnect the overflow pipe from the filler B Temperature control
the tautness of the belt, then slip the belt from neck on the expansion tank. C Air distribution control
 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5

10.8 Heater control cable connections (to heater casing) -

Base and L models
A Left side connection D Plate nut
B Right side connection E Clip 10.9 Control unit and cable connections - Base and L models
C Outer cable clamp screw

6 Unscrew and remove the two screws from 9 Disconnect the control unit lights, then a suitable screwdriver and then removing the
the lower section of the instrument cluster unscrew and remove the control unit, cover. To release the Bowden cables,
bezel then withdraw the bezel upper section withdrawing complete with the Bowden unscrew their clamp screws and disengage
from the guide slots. Lift it clear of the control cables (see illustration). the cables from the toothed band guides (see
unit at the side. 10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal illustration). The pivots and toothed band
7 Detach the switch lead connectors at the procedure. On completion adjust the controls. guides can then be removed from the
rear of the bezel. baseplate of the control unit.
8 At the heater casing remove the cable Ghia and XR2 models 18 Refit in the reverse order to removal and
clamp screws and unclip the control cables 11 Disconnect the battery earth lead. adjust the controls.
(see illustration). 12 Working inside the vehicle, remove the
dash lower trim panel on each side (left and
right). The panels are secured with clips and
tags.
13 Pull and withdraw the control knobs from
11 Heater blower motor -
removal and refitting 2
the three rotary switches on the control unit
(see illustration). 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 3
14 Unscrew and remove the four screws 2 Undo and remove the six screws securing
securing the control unit bezel and the control the bonnet lock mounting plate and then
unit screws (see illustrations). Carefully position the plate (and bonnet lock) to one
withdraw the control unit from the crash side.
padding. 3 Reach through the plate aperture and
15 Disconnect the control cables from the detach the lead connector from the fan motor,
heater unit casing by loosening the clamp also detach the earth lead.
screws and unclipping the cables. 4 Bend back the two retaining clips and
10.13 Heating and ventilation controls - 16 Partially withdraw the control unit (with disengage the fan unit.
Ghia and XR2 models cables) from under the crash pad so that the 5 Rotate and remove the fan; pulling it out
fan control switch lead can be detached, then through the aperture in the cowl panel.
A Air distribution control
fully remove the control unit.
B Three-stage fan switch
17 This control unit type can be dismantled
C Temperature control
by bending back the four securing lugs using

10.17 Control unit components -

Ghia and XR2 models
A Cover D Pivot
10.14a Control unit bezel retaining screws 10.14b Control unit retaining screws B Plate nut E Baseplate
(arrowed) - Ghia and XR2 models (arrowed) - Ghia and XR2 models C Toothed belt F Cable
3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

12.6 Cowl panel cover plate (A)

12.10 Heater casing cover clips (A)

11 Disconnect the air distribution ducts from

the heater case on the left- and right-hand
sides.
11.6 Heater fan motor retaining clamp 12.7 Fan motor wiring connector (B)
12 Undo the two retaining nuts and lower the
heater case unit to enable it to be withdrawn
6 Disconnect the fan cover then, using a upper heater pipe stub and catching the sideways from underneath the facia padding.
screwdriver, lift the motor securing clamp coolant which will be ejected from the lower Note that on models fitted with a central
(see illustration) and remove the motor. one. console it is first necessary to detach and
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal 5 Remove the cover plate and gasket from remove the radial fan and console before the
procedure. around the heater pipe stubs. This is held to heater can be withdrawn.
the bulkhead by two self-tapping screws.
6 Undo and remove the six screws retaining Refitting
12 Heater - removal and refitting
3 the cowl panel cover place in position (see
illustration). Move the cover plate and bonnet
lock to one side, out of the way.
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
that the heater casing seal to the cowl is in
good order, otherwise renew it. Adjust the
7 Reach through the cover plate aperture and heater controls on completion.
detach the lead connector from the fan motor 14 Top-up the cooling system and reconnect
Removal (see illustration). the battery.
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 8 Working inside the vehicle, remove the
2 To minimise the coolant loss, move the dash lower trim panels from both sides. The
heater controls to the warm position then
drain the engine coolant; saving it for re-use
by emptying into a suitable container.
panels are held in position by clips and tags.
9 Disconnect the control cables from the
heater casing and the flap arms.
13 Heater - dismantling and
reassembly 2
3 Working within the engine compartment, 10 Using a suitable screwdriver, unclip the
disconnect the coolant hoses from the heater cover from the heater unit (see illustration), 1 Use a sharp knife to cut through the casing
pipe stubs at the rear bulkhead. Raise the lower the cover, together with the heater gaskets in line with the casing half-joint
ends of the hoses to minimise loss of any matrix and remove rear end from the guide. flanges (see illustration).
remaining coolant in the hoses. The heater matrix can now be fully removed, 2 Unclip and separate the half-casings (see
4 The heater matrix will still contain coolant but take care not to spill any remaining illustration).
and should be drained by blowing into the coolant over trim and carpets. 3 Lift out the electric motor and fan unit.

13.2 Heater casing components

A Fan D Air distributor valve

13.1 Cut the heater casing seal gasket B Half-casings E Matrix
C Temperature control valve F Cover
 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7

13.6 Align the marks (arrowed) when fitting the distribution valve 14.3 Coolant temperature gauge sender unit location
A OHV engine B CVH engine

4 If not already removed, unclip the retainers the sender unit from the cylinder head (see
securing the matrix cover, withdraw the cover
and lift the matrix from its heater case
mounting.
5 The temperature and air distribution control
14 Coolant temperature gauge
sender unit - removal and
refitting
2 illustration). Be prepared for some loss of
coolant - this should be negligible.
4 Smear the threads of the new sender unit
with sealant, and screw into place. Refit the
valves can be removed by twisting them and 1 Should the coolant temperature gauge give electrical lead, ensuring that a good metal-to-
pressing from the casing half. incorrect readings (overheating or overcooling metal contact is obtained.
6 Reassembly is a reversal of the removal indicated, with no apparent accompanying 5 Top-up the coolant level, and run the
procedure. When refitting the air distribution symptoms), then the temperature gauge engine until normal operating temperature is
valve, rotate the operating lever so that the sender unit may be at fault, and should be reached (radiator fan cuts in and out). Check
window and valve markings align. The valve renewed as follows. for correct gauge operation and also for leaks
can only be fitted in this position (see 2 Depressurise the cooling system by from the sender unit. No reading may indicate
illustration). removing and refitting the radiator or a poor connection at the sender unit - clean
expansion tank cap, taking precautions the terminals thoroughly.
against scalding if the engine is still warm. 6 When the engine has cooled down, top-up
3 Disconnect the electrical lead, and unscrew the coolant level again if necessary. 3
3•8 Notes
 4•1

Chapter 4
Fuel and exhaust systems
Contents
Air cleaner element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Air cleaner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Fuel tank - cleaning and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Carburettors (all types) - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Choke cable (Ford carburettors) - removal, refitting and General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Throttle cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Emission control components - maintenance and testing . . . . . . . . .28 Throttle pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Emission control components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Weber 2V carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Exhaust and inlet manifolds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Weber 2V carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Exhaust system - renewal and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Ford 1V carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Ford 1V carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Weber 2V TLD carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Ford VV carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Weber 2V TLD carburettor automatic choke unit - removal and
Ford VV carburettor manual choke unit - removal and refitting . . . . .15 refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Ford VV carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Weber 2V TLD carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Ford VV carburettor throttle damper - removal, refitting and Weber (1V) TLM carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5 4

Specifications
System type ........................................... Rear-mounted fuel tank, mechanical fuel pump, thermostatically-
controlled air cleaner and Ford or Weber carburettor

Fuel grade requirement

1.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Octane (2-star)
1.1, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Octane (4-star)
Note: See Section 1 for information on use of unleaded fuel.

Fuel pump
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical diaphragm type, camshaft driven, non-repairable

Air cleaner
Heat sensor rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 30°C (79 to 86°F)

Carburettor applications
Ford 1V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre (pre 1986)
Ford VV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.1 and 1.3 litre
Weber 2V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (pre 1987)
Weber 2V DFTM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4 litre
Weber 2V TLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1987-on)
Weber (1V) TLM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre (1986-on)
4•2 Fuel and exhaust systems

Ford 1V carburettor
Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 rpm
Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25%
Fast idle speed (manual choke) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400 rpm
Float level setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 mm
Accelerator pump stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm
Choke plate pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 mm
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

Ford VV carburettor
Idle speed (fan on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm
Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2%

Weber 2V carburettor
Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 775 to 825 rpm
Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.50%
Fast idle speed (on high cam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2675 to 2725 rpm
Float level setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.5 to 35.5 mm
Vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.2 to 5.8 mm
Choke phasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5 mm
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115/125
Air jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160/150
Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F30/F30
Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50/60

Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

Idle speed (fan running) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm
Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 to 1.75%
Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 to 8.5 mm
Throttle kicker speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1250 to 1350 rpm
Choke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2600 to 2800 rpm
Choke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.7 to 3.2 mm

Primary Secondary
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 mm 23 mm
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 125
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 165
Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F22 F60
Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 60

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

Idle speed (fan running) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm
Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 to 1.75%
Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.5 to 31.5 mm
Choke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 5.0 mm
Choke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1850 to 1950 rpm

Primary Secondary
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 mm 23 mm
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 127
Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F105 F71
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 125

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 775 to 825 rpm
Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.30%
Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 to 31.0 mm
Choke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3100 to 3300 rpm
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Exhaust manifold flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30
Exhaust connecting flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 to 45 28 to 33
Carburettor flange nuts:
Ford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14
Weber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Fuel pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3

1986 and 1296 cc engines built from October or carburettor specialist is sought. Most
1 General information and 1985 are all suitable for continuous operation dealers will be able to provide carburettor re-
precautions on unleaded fuel. CVH engines built up to the jetting and servicing facilities, and if necessary
end of 1984 which are suitable for continuous it should be possible to purchase a
use with unleaded fuel have “LPG” stamped reconditioned carburettor of the relevant type.
General information on the cylinder head above No 1 cylinder
exhaust port. Later CVH engines are all
The fuel system is composed of four basic 2 Air cleaner element - renewal
components. These are the fuel tank with level
indicator, the fuel pump, the carburettor and
its controls, and the air cleaner. A basic
suitable for continuous operation on unleaded
fuel.
Any vehicles which do not come into the
1
foregoing categories may still be run on
emission control system is fitted. unleaded fuel, provided that every fourth Refer to Chapter 1, Section 31.
The fuel tank is located under the floorpan tankful is of leaded fuel. It is also possible that
beneath the rear seats. The filler neck the ignition timing may need to be retarded to
3 Air cleaner - removal and
protrudes through the left-hand side of the
vehicle, while the combined outlet pipe and
fuel level indicator sender unit is located on
the right-hand side of the tank. A ventilation or
eliminate pinking. For ignition timing values for
use with unleaded fuel, see Specifications,
Chapter 5.
refitting 2
breather pipe is located on the top of the tank. Tamperproof adjustment screws
1 Undo and remove the two screws from the
The fuel pump on all models is a Certain adjustment points in the fuel system
centre section of the cover. On 1.0 litre
mechanical diaphragm type being driven from (and elsewhere) are protected by
models also undo the support bracket screw.
the camshaft. On OHV models it is mounted “tamperproof” caps, plugs or seals. The
2 The air cleaner assembly can now be lifted
on the side of the cylinder block whilst on purpose of such tamperproofing is to
off the carburettor sufficiently far to be able to
CVH models it is mounted on the side of the discourage adjustment by unqualified
operators. In some EEC countries (though not disconnect the vacuum hose, the crankcase
cylinder head and is actuated by a pushrod.
The fuel pumps on both models are fully yet in the UK) it is an offence to drive a vehicle (flame trap) emission hose and the air inlet
sealed units and no servicing or repairs are with missing or broken tamperproof seals. duct (see illustration).
possible. Before disturbing a tamperproof seal, satisfy 3 Refit in the reverse order to removal.
On all models the air cleaner unit is of the yourself that you will not be breaking local or
disposable paper element type with an national anti-pollution regulations by doing so.
4 Fuel pump - testing, removal
integral thermostatic air inlet control. The
thermostatic unit ensures that the air inlet
temperature is in accordance with that
Fit a new seal when adjustment is complete
when this is required by law.
Do not break tamperproof seals on a
and refitting 2
required, the warm air being drawn from a vehicle which is still under warranty.
heat box mounted directly across the exhaust Work procedures Testing
manifold: cool air being drawn through the
When working on fuel system components, 1 On OHV engines, the fuel pump is mounted
inlet in the engine compartment. The
scrupulous cleanliness must be observed, on the cylinder block and is actuated by a
thermostat within the air cleaner body opens
and care must be taken not to introduce any lever which is in direct contact with an
or closes an air control flap valve to regulate
foreign matter into fuel lines or components. eccentric cam on the camshaft.
the air inlet temperature as required.
Carburettors in particular are delicate 2 On CVH engines, the pump is mounted on 4
Precautions instruments, and care should be taken not to the cylinder head and is actuated by a
disturb any components unnecessarily. pushrod from an eccentric cam on the
Fuel Before attempting work on a carburettor, camshaft.
Warning: Many of the ensure that the relevant spares are available. 3 The fuel pump may be quite simply tested
procedures given in this Full overhaul procedures for carburettors have by disconnecting the fuel inlet pipe from the
Chapter involve the not been given in this Chapter, as complete carburettor and placing its open end in a
disconnection of fuel pipes and strip-down of a carburettor is unlikely to cure container.
system components which may result in a fault which is not immediately obvious, 4 Disconnect the LT lead from the negative
some fuel spillage. Before carrying out without introducing new problems. If terminal of the ignition coil to prevent the
any operation on the fuel system, refer to persistent problems are encountered, it is engine firing.
the precautions given in the “Safety first” recommended that the advice of a Ford dealer 5 Actuate the starter motor. Regular well-
Section at the beginning of this manual defined spurts of fuel should be seen being
and follow them implicitly. Petrol Is a ejected from the open end of the fuel inlet
highly dangerous and volatile substance, pipe.
and the precautions necessary when 6 Where this is not evident and yet there is
handling it cannot be over stressed. fuel in the tank, the pump is in need of
renewal. The pump is a sealed unit and
Use of unleaded fuel cannot be dismantled or repaired.
The continuous use of 95 RON unleaded Removal
fuel is dependent upon whether the engine is
7 To remove the pump, disconnect and plug
fitted with hardened valve seats. 957 cc and
the fuel inlet and outlet hoses at the pump and
1117 cc engines built up until the end of
then unbolt it from the engine (see
January 1986 have “VG” or “CL” stamped on
illustrations).
the flywheel end of the cylinder head if they
8 Retain any insulating spacers and remove
can be run continuously on unleaded fuel. 957
3.2 Air cleaner unit underside connections and discard the flange gaskets.
cc and 1117 cc engines built from February
9 On CVH engines, withdraw the pushrod.
4•4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Refitting
10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new flange gaskets. If crimped type hose clips
were used originally, these will have been
destroyed when disconnecting the fuel hoses.
Renew them with conventional nut and screw
or plastic ratchet type clips.

5 Fuel tank - removal and

refitting 2
4.7a Detaching hoses from fuel pump - 4.7b Fuel pump - OHV
Removal CVH
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
2 Using a length of flexible tubing, syphon as 12 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
much fuel out of the tank as possible. Ensure
adequate ventilation.
3 Jack up the rear of the car and suitably
the reverse of removal. 7 Throttle cable - removal,
refitting and adjustment 3
support it for access beneath.
4 Disconnect the flexible hoses from the
sender unit.
6 Fuel tank - cleaning and
repair 2 Removal
5 Disconnect the electrical leads from the 1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery.
sender unit (see illustration). 2 From inside the car, detach and remove the
6 While supporting the weight of the tank, Warning: A fuel tank must be lower dash trim panel on the driver’s side.
unscrew and remove the four retaining nuts repaired professionally. On no 3 Pull the grommet from the pedal (see
with flat washers (see illustration). account attempt to weld or illustration), pull the inner cable through and
7 Remove the tank (and guard, where solder a fuel tank yourself as unhook it from the pedal.
applicable), leaving the fuel filler pipe in this will result in an explosion. 4 Using a suitable punch, knock out the
position. bulkhead grommet. This will destroy the
8 If it is necessary to remove the sender unit, grommet, and release the outer cable.
this can be unscrewed from the tank using the 1 Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. 5 Remove the air cleaner to gain access to
appropriate Ford tool. Alternatively a suitable 2 If the tank contains sediment or water, it the carburettor cable connection.
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses 6 Slide the clip from the inner cable end and
C-spanner can probably be used.
with paraffin. Shake vigorously using several prise off the cable from the throttle shaft ball
9 Taking care not to damage the sealing
changes of paraffin, but before doing so (see illustration).
washer, prise out the tank-to-filler pipe seal.
remove the sender unit. Allow the tank to 7 Using a suitable screwdriver, carefully prise
Refitting drain thoroughly. out the cable retaining clip. Depress the four
10 Refit the filler pipe seal, using a new seal if 3 If removal of the tank was carried out in pegs on the retainer, and pull the retainer from
there is any doubt about the condition of the order to mend a leak, have it repaired profes- the mounting bracket.
old one. sionally; radiator repairers will usually do this.
11 Refit the sender unit using a new seal as the To remove all trace of vapour requires several Refitting
hours of steaming out. 8 Refitting is the reverse of this procedure.
original one will almost certainly be damaged.

5.5 Fuel tank components

A Tank C Fuel filler pipe seal 5.6 Fuel tank retaining nuts
B Ventilation hose D Sender unit
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5

Adjustment
9 With the air cleaner removed, jam the pedal
in the fully open position using a suitable
length of wood against the seat or a heavy
weight.
10 Wind back the adjusting sleeve at the
carburettor until the carburettor linkage is just
in the fully open position (see illustration).
11 Release the pedal, then check to ensure
that full throttle can be obtained.
12 Refit the air cleaner.

8 Throttle pedal - removal and 7.3 Throttle cable location at the pedal 7.6 Throttle cable retaining clip (A) and
refitting 2 A
B
end
Inner cable locating grommet
Pedal shaft
linkage connection (B) to throttle shaft ball

C Outer cable locating grommet

Removal D Outer cable
1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery. E Bulkhead
2 From inside the car, unclip and remove the
lower dash trim panel on the driver’s side.
Refitting
3 Pull back the insulation panel and carpet
from around the pedal. 7 Refitting is the reverse of this procedure,
4 Pull the grommet from the pedal, pull the after which the throttle cable adjustment
inner cable through and unhook it from the should be checked.
pedal.
5 Unscrew and remove the pedal shaft
bracket-to-bulkhead retaining bolt (see
illustration).
6 On right-hand drive models, unscrew and
9 Choke cable (Ford
carburettors) - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3 7.10 Throttle cable adjusting sleeve
(arrowed)

remove the single retaining nut from under the

Refitting
wheel arch. On left-hand drive models this nut Removal
will be found on the engine side of the 7 Refit in the reverse order of removal, but
1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery. adjust as described below according to
bulkhead. Remove the pedal. 2 Remove the air cleaner. carburettor type.
3 Undo the screw securing the inner choke
cable and carefully prise out the spring clip Adjustment
retaining the outer cable (see illustration).
4 From inside the car, undo the single Ford 1V carburettor
retaining screw and detach the cable switch 8 Withdraw the choke knob to provide a
4
mounting shroud (see illustration). clearance of 37 mm between the bezel and
5 Prise free the choke cable control knob the knob (see illustration). If possible, make
retaining clip and withdraw the knob. up a spacer to fit between the knob and bezel
6 Extract the retaining bezel and pull the to maintain this distance.
mounting shroud clear. Pull the cable and 9 Working at the carburettor end of the cable,
withdraw it through the engine compartment measure and make a mark 22 mm from the
side of the bulkhead. end of the inner cable using a pencil or tape.

8.5 Pedal unit-to-bulkhead bolt

9.4 Choke control knob components

9.3 Choke cable retaining screw (A) and A Bezel D Clip 9.8 Choke knob-to-bezel clearance during
outer cable clip (B) B Shroud E Knob cable adjustment
C Switch lever B = 37 mm (1.45 in)
4•6 Fuel and exhaust systems

9.9 Choke cable end types 9.10a Locate the ferrule against clamp 9.10b . . . and tighten retaining screw. Also
(arrowed) . . . shown is the fuel choke stop (A)
A Plain cable D Outer cable
B Cable with kink E Inner cable
C Cable with ferrule X = 22 mm (0.866 in)
Some models have a kink or are fitted with a
ferrule at this distance (see illustration).
12 With the operating lever held against the
full choke stop, check that the spacer is still in
position between the choke knob and bezel
10 Carburettors (all types) -
dismantling and reassembly 3
10 Insert the cable through its location clamp (or distance is as specified in paragraph 8).
13 Remove the spacer and check that the 1 A complete strip-down of a carburettor is
so that the distance mark (kink or ferrule)
choke fully opens and closes using the choke unlikely to cure a fault which is not immediately
butts against the inner cable clamp (see
knob. obvious without introducing new problems. If
illustration). Hold the clamp bolt with a persistent carburation problems are
spanner and tighten the retaining screw (see Ford VV carburettor encountered, it is recommended that the
illustration). 14 Proceed as given in paragraphs 8 to 13 advice of a Ford dealer or specialist is sought.
11 Firmly pull on the outer cable to position inclusive, but check that a small clearance Most dealers will be able to provide carburettor
the choke operating lever against the full (1.0 mm) exists between the choke operating re-jetting and servicing facilities and if
choke stop (A in photo 9.10b) then secure the lever and the off stop when the lever is necessary, it should be possible to buy a
outer cable in the retaining clip. released (in the off position). reconditioned carburettor of the relevant type.
2 If it is decided to go ahead and service a
carburettor, check the cost and availability of
spare parts before commencement. Obtain a
carburettor repair kit, which will contain the
necessary gaskets, diaphragms and other
renewable items.
3 When working on carburettors, scrupulous
cleanliness must be observed and care must
be taken not to introduce any foreign matter
into components. Carburettors are delicate
instruments and care should be taken not to
disturb any components unnecessarily.
4 Referring to the relevant exploded view of
the carburettor (see illustrations), remove
each component part whilst making a note of
its fitted position. Make alignment marks on
linkages etc.
5 Reassemble the carburettor in the reverse
order to dismantling, using new gaskets, O-
rings etc. Be careful not to kink any
diaphragms.
10.4a Ford 1V carburettor components
1 Choke spindle
2 Choke plate
3 Fuel inlet filter
4 Needle valve housing
5 Needle valve
6 Float
7 Pump return spring
8 Accelerator pump diaphragm
9 Tamperproof plug
10 Throttle plate
11 Mixture screw
12 Throttle spindle
13 Main jet
Note: Some carburettors may have an anti-
dieseling valve (idle cut-off) fitted
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4•7

10.4b Ford VV carburettor components

4
A Top cover K Accelerator pump cover
B Manual choke L Progressive throttle cam
C Lever housing M Mixture screw
D Choke cable bracket N Anti-dieseling valve
E Auto-choke* P Idle speed screw
F Bi-metal housing* Q Needle valve
G Control diaphragm cover R Float bracket
H Control diaphragm * Certain overseas models only (manual choke
J Accelerator pump diaphragm for UK models)

10.4c Ford VV carburettor -

modified accelerator pump
A Pump cover D Diaphragm
B Spring E Spacer
C Metal plate F Vacuum passage
4•8 Fuel and exhaust systems

10.4d Weber 2V carburettor components

A Electric choke housing H Accelerator pump unit O Combined emulsion tube, air
B Choke pull-down diaphragm unit I Power valve diaphragm unit correction and main jets
C Upper body J Throttle plates P Idle jets
D Inlet filter K Secondary throttle spindle Q Fuel return correction
E Accelerator discharge tube L Fast idle adjuster R Needle valve
F Anti-dieseling solenoid M Float S Needle valve housing
G Mixture screw N Idle speed adjusting screw T Rubber seal
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9

10.4e Weber 2V DFTM carburettor components

A Manual choke unit F Idle mixture adjustment screw L Primary emulsion tube
B Choke vacuum pull-down G Accelerator pump assembly M Primary idle jet
C Secondary idle jet H Throttle kicker N Needle valve
D Secondary venturi vacuum unit J Power valve diaphragm P Fuel inlet filter
E Idle speed adjustment screw K Float Q Secondary emulsion tube

10.4f Weber 2V DFTM carburettor -

throttle kicker assembly
A Return spring
B Diaphragm
4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems

10.4g Weber 2V TLD carburettor components

A Emulsion tubes E Main jets J Idle mixture adjustment screw

B Air correction jets F Secondary venturi vacuum unit L Needle valve
C Automatic choke assembly G Power valve diaphragm M Anti-run-on solenoid valve
D Choke vacuum pull-down diaphragm H Accelerator pump diaphragm N Fuel inlet filter
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4•11

10.4h Weber (1V) TLM carburettor components

A Upper body (top cover) E Idle speed screw J Anti-run-on solenoid valve
B Choke mechanism F Throttle valve block K Power valve assembly
C Accelerator pump G Fast idle speed screw L Float
D Accelerator pump discharge tube H Throttle valve plate spindle M Mixture screw
4•12 Fuel and exhaust systems

11.6 Hold open choke plate (B) and adjust 11.8 Insert twist drill (A) and adjust pull 11.10 Insert twist drill (A) and bend U-link -
fast idle tag (A) - Ford 1V carburettor down tag (B) - Ford 1V carburettor arrowed (B) - Ford 1V carburettor

11 Ford 1V carburettor -
adjustment 3 12 Ford 1V carburettor -
removal and refitting 3 13 Ford VV carburettor -
adjustment 3
1 Before carrying out the following 1 The following adjustments can be carried
adjustments ensure that all other engine Removal out without having to remove the carburettor
variables ie. contact breaker points gap, 1 Open the bonnet, disconnect the earth lead from the engine. The procedure must be
ignition timing, spark plug gap, valve from the battery and remove the air cleaner. carried out with the radiator cooling fan in
clearances etc, have been checked and, 2 Pull off the retaining clip and prise the operation.
where necessary, adjusted to their specified throttle cable off the throttle lever ball. 2 To keep the fan running during the
settings. The air cleaner must be fitted during 3 Slacken the inner choke cable clamp screw adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring
adjustments. and prise out the outer cable retaining clip. multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in
Free the choke cable from the carburettor. the thermostat housing) and bridge the two
Idle speed 4 Pull off the distributor vacuum pipe and the contacts in the plug with a short length of
2 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10. fuel vent pipe. wire. Disconnect the wire and refit the multi-
5 If a crimped type clamp is fitted to the fuel plug on completion of the adjustments. Make
Idle mixture inlet pipe, it should be cut off (see sure that the engine and ignition are switched
3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11. illustration) and a screw type clamp fitted. If a off when connecting and disconnecting the
screw type clamp is fitted, slacken the screw, bridging wire.
Fast idle then pull off the fuel feed pipe.
4 Check and adjust the slow idle speed, then 6 Remove the two nuts that secure the Idle speed
remove the air cleaner unit and check the carburettor flange and remove the nuts and 3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10.
choke plate pull-down, below. spring washers.
5 With the engine warmed up, hold the choke 7 Carefully lift away the carburettor and its Idle mixture
plate fully open, operate the choke linkage as gasket, remembering that the float chamber is 4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.
far as possible (about 1/3 of its travel) and still full of petrol.
check the fast idle speed. Choke pull down/fast idle
6 To adjust the fast idle, bend the tag the Refitting 5 This semi-automatic unit in the choke
required amount (see illustration). 8 Refitting is the reverse of this procedure housing controls the air fuel mixture under
noting the following points: warm-up conditions, when the engine is under
Choke plate pull-down a) Remove all traces of the old carburettor light load or cruise conditions. The checking
7 Rotate the choke lever on the carburettor gasket, clean the mating flanges and fit a and adjustment of this unit is best entrusted
until the choke plate is fully closed. new gasket. to your Ford dealer.
8 Open the choke plate against the spring b) Check for correct adjustment of the
pressure up to its stop, then insert a gauge throttle and choke cables.
rod or twist drill of the specified size, as
shown (see illustration). Bend the adjusting
tag as necessary to give the correct
14 Ford VV carburettor throttle
damper - removal, refitting
and adjustment
3
dimension between the choke plate and the
carburettor.
Removal
Accelerator pump stroke 1 Certain later models are fitted with a throttle
9 Unscrew the throttle speed screw until it damper mounted on a bracket on the side of
clears the linkage. the carburettor to allow progressive closure of
10 Depress the accelerator pump diaphragm the throttle linkage (see illustration).
plunger fully and then check the clearance 2 To remove the damper, remove the air
between the end of the plunger and the cleaner, slacken the locknut and remove the
operating lever (see illustration) using a damper from its bracket.
gauge rod or twist drill of the specified skew.
11 If necessary, bend the operating rod at Refitting
the U-bend to give the correct clearance. 12.5 Cutting off a crimped type fuel hose 3 Refit the damper by screwing it into place in
Reset the idle speed. clip the bracket, then adjust the unit as follows.
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4•13

14.1 Throttle damper arrangement - 15.4 Choke unit retaining screws - 15.6 Choke lever housing fitting details -
later model Ford VV carburettor Ford VV carburettor Ford VV carburettor

Adjustment
16 Ford VV carburettor - 17 Weber 2V carburettor -
4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 16.
removal and refitting 3 adjustment 3
15 Ford VV carburettor manual
choke unit - removal and
refitting
3 Removal Idle speed/mixture
1 Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 10 and 11
1 Remove the air cleaner.
2 Disconnect the choke cable from the according to model.
Removal operating lever on the choke housing.
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Fast idle
3 Pull off the electrical lead from the anti-run-
2 Remove the air cleaner. 2 Open the bonnet and remove the air
on valve on the carburettor.
3 Remove the retaining clip, slacken the cleaner.
4 Disconnect the distributor vacuum pipe.
clamp bolt and disconnect the choke cable 3 Run the engine until the normal running
5 Disconnect the throttle cable by pulling the
from the linkage and support bracket. temperature is reached. Hold the throttle
spring clip to release the end fitting from the
4 Using a Torx type key or socket bit, undo partly open, then close the choke plates by
ball-stud and then unscrewing the cable hand and release the throttle (see
the three screws and detach the lever housing
bracket fixing bolt. illustration).
from the choke unit (see illustration).
6 Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet hose 4 The throttle mechanism will hold the choke
5 Undo the three Torx screws and detach the
from the carburettor. If crimped type hose mechanism at the fast idle position. Release
choke unit from the carburettor.
clips are used, cut them off and fit screw type the choke plates, which should return to the
Refitting clips at reassembly. open position.
6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to 7 Unscrew the two carburettor mounting 5 If the choke plates do not fully open, then
removal, but use new gaskets between the flange nuts and lift the carburettor from the either the engine has not fully warmed up, or 4
choke unit and carburettor, and between the inlet manifold. Remove the idle speed screw if the electric choke is faulty.
lever housing and choke unit. Ensure that the necessary for access to the nut. 6 Without touching the throttle, start the
latter is positioned as shown (see illustration) engine and check the fast idle speed against
and make sure that the spring-loaded arm in
Refitting the figure given in the Specifications.
the lever housing locates over the linkage in 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make 7 To adjust the fast idle speed, slacken the
the choke unit. sure that a new flange gasket is used on locknut and screw the adjuster (see
7 Reconnect the choke cable and refit the air perfectly clean mating surfaces. illustration) in or out as required.
cleaner, then reconnect the battery. 9 Reconnect and adjust the choke cable. 8 Tighten the locknut and refit the air cleaner.

17.3 Choke pull-down/fast idle setting - Weber 2V carburettor 17.7 Fast idle adjustment showing choke plates open (A) and fast
A Hold choke plate shut B Hold throttle partly open idle adjustment screw (B) - Weber 2V carburettor
4•14 Fuel and exhaust systems

17.11 Hold choke open with a rubber band (B) and push the
diaphragm rod (A) with a small screwdriver (C) - 17.12 Insert a twist drill (A) and adjust pull-down (B) -
Weber 2V carburettor Weber 2V carburettor

Vacuum pull-down 18 Push the choke plates down until the cam cleaner must be fitted, the engine must be at
jams against the fast idle screw (see normal operating temperature and the radiator
9 With the air cleaner removed, pull the wire
off the electric choke. illustration). cooling fan must be running.
10 Remove the three retaining screws and lift 19 Measure the clearance between the 2 To keep the fan running during the
off the automatic choke outer housing with choke plate and the carburettor body, using a adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring
the bi-metallic spring. Lift off the internal heat gauge rod or twist drill of the specified size. multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in
shield. 20 Bend the tag (see illustration) as the thermostat housing) and bridge the two
11 Fit an elastic band to the choke plate required, to give the correct clearance. contacts in the plug with a short length of wire.
lever, and position it to hold the choke plates 21 Refit the heat shield and the choke
housing. Reconnect the electric choke wire Idle speed
closed (see illustration). Open the throttle to
allow the choke plates to close fully. and the air cleaner. 3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10.
12 Using a suitable screwdriver, push the Idle mixture
choke diaphragm open, then measure the
clearance between the choke plate and the
carburettor body, using a gauge rod or twist
drill of the specified size (see illustration).
18 Weber 2V carburettor -
removal and refitting 3 4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.
Fast idle
5 Adjust the engine idle speed and mixture
13 To adjust the opening, remove the plug
and screw the adjusting screw in or out as The procedure is very similar to that settings, then switch off the engine. Leave the
required. described for the Ford 1V carburettor, except tachometer connected from the previous
14 Adjust the choke phasing, as shown below. that the manual choke cable is replaced by an operation.
15 Refit the heat shield and the choke electric choke wire and four nuts are used to 6 Undo the four bolts securing the air cleaner
housing. Reconnect the electric choke wire secure the unit to the manifold. to the carburettor, disconnect the hot and cold
and the air cleaner. air inlet hoses and lift off the air cleaner.
Position the air cleaner clear of the carburettor,
Choke phasing
16 Adjust the vacuum pull-down as shown
above.
19 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor
- adjustment 3 but leave the crankcase breather hoses and
the vacuum supply hose connected.
7 Pull the choke knob fully out and start the
engine.
17 Hold the throttle partly open, and position
the fast idle adjusting screw on the centre 1 Before carrying out the following 8 Using a finger on the linkage lever as shown
step of the fast idle cam. Release the throttle adjustments ensure that all other engine (see illustration), hold the choke plate open
to hold the cam in this position. variables, ie, ignition timing, spark plug gap, and note the fast idle speed.
etc, have been checked and where necessary
adjusted to their specified settings. The air

17.18 Checking the choke phasing - 19.8 Fast idle speed adjustment -
Weber 2V carburettor Weber 2V DFTM carburettor
A Fast idle cam 17.20 Choke phase adjusting tag A Choke valve plate held open
B Fast idle adjuster screw (arrowed) - Weber 2V carburettor B Fast idle adjustment screw
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4•15

9 If adjustment is necessary turn the fast idle 4 Disconnect the vacuum pipe at the Idle mixture
adjusting screw until the specified speed is carburettor outlet. 4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.
obtained. 5 Disconnect the throttle cable by releasing
10 On completion refit the air cleaner and the spring clip securing the end fitting to the Fast idle
disconnect the tachometer. ball-stud on the linkage, and then unscrewing 5 Remove the air cleaner.
Throttle kicker the cable bracket fixing bolts. 6 Have the engine at normal operating
6 Release the choke cable from the linkage temperature with a tachometer connected in
11 Remove the air cleaner. Plug the vacuum lever and move the bracket, with both cables accordance with the manufacturer’s
supply from the manifold. attached, to one side. instructions.
12 Have the engine at normal operating 7 With the engine stopped, open the throttle
7 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses,
temperature with a tachometer connected in linkage slightly by hand and close the choke
noting their respective positions, and plug
accordance with the manufacturer’s plate until the fast idle adjusting screw lines
them after removal. If crimped type clips are
instructions. up with the third (middle) step of the fast idle
used, cut them off and use new screw type
13 With the engine running and the idle cam (see illustration). Release the throttle so
speed and mixture correctly adjusted, clips when refitting.
that the fast idle screw rests on the cam.
manually operate the throttle kicker by lifting 8 Undo the four mounting flange nuts and
Release the choke plate.
the operating lever upwards. Note the washers and withdraw the carburettor from
8 Without touching the throttle pedal, start
increase in engine speed. the manifold. the engine by just turning the key.
14 If the increased speed is outside the figure Refitting 9 Note the fast idle speed and if adjustment is
given in the Specifications, remove the necessary, turn the fast idle adjusting screw
tamperproof plug from the top of the kicker 9 Refitting is the reversal of removal, but use until the specified speed is obtained.
body and adjust the unit to give the specified a new flange gasket and ensure that the 10 On completion refit the air cleaner and
speed. mating surfaces are perfectly clean. disconnect the tachometer.
15 Remove the tachometer and refit the air Reconnect the choke and throttle cables and
cleaner on completion. refit the air cleaner, then adjust the idle speed Automatic choke unit
and mixture settings. 11 Remove the air cleaner.
12 Release any pressure in the cooling
20 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor
- removal and refitting 3 21 Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
adjustment 3
system by loosening the pressure cap on the
expansion tank (protect the hands using a
cloth if the engine is hot), then disconnect the
water inlet and outlet hoses at the automatic
choke unit. Clamp the hoses or position them
Removal 1 Before carrying out the following with their ends facing upwards to minimise
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. adjustments ensure that all other engine coolant leakage.
2 Remove the air cleaner. variables, ie, ignition timing, spark plug gap, 13 Undo the three screws and detach the
3 Disconnect the electrical leads at the choke bi-metal coil housing, followed by the
etc, have been checked and where necessary
solenoids (see illustrations). internal heat shield.
adjusted to their specified settings. The air
14 Fit a rubber band to the choke plate lever,
cleaner must be fitted, the engine must be at open the throttle to allow the choke plate to
normal operating temperature and the radiator close, and then secure the band to keep the
cooling fan must be running.
2 To keep the fan running during the
plate closed. 4
15 Using a screwdriver, push the diaphragm
adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring open to its stop and measure the clearance
multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in between the lower edge of the choke plate
the thermostat housing) and bridge the two and the air horn, using a twist drill or other
contacts in the plug with a short length of gauge rod (see illustration). Where the
wire. clearance is outside that specified, remove
the tamperproof plug from the diaphragm
Idle speed housing and turn the screw, now exposed, in
3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10. or out as necessary.

20.3a Electrical connections -

Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

21.7 Fast idle speed adjustment - 21.15 Choke vacuum pull-down

Weber 2V TLD carburettor adjustment - Weber 2V TLD carburettor
A Fast idle cam A Twist drill
20.3b Back bleed solenoid - B Fast idle adjusting screw positioned B Diaphragm held fully open
Weber 2V DFTM carburettor on third step of cam C Adjusting screw
4•16 Fuel and exhaust systems

21.19 Bi-metal coil housing and choke 22.6 Choke bi-metal coil housing retaining 22.7 Vacuum pull-down housing (A) and
body alignment marks - screws - Weber 2V TLD carburettor choke housing retaining screws (B) -
Weber 2V TLD carburettor Weber 2V TLD carburettor
A Dot punch mark 7 Undo the three screws securing the choke 13 Locate the O-ring seal on the choke
B Choke alignment mark on housing housing to the upper body (see illustration), housing, then connect the housing to the link
disconnect the link rod and remove the choke rod.
16 Fit a new diaphragm housing tamperproof
housing. 14 Position the housing on the carburettor
plug and remove the rubber band.
8 Undo the three screws and remove the upper body and secure with the three screws.
17 Refit the heat shield, making sure that the 15 Refit the upper body to the carburettor.
locating peg is correctly engaged in the notch vacuum pull-down housing cover, then
withdraw the spring, diaphragm and operating 16 Before refitting the bi-metal coil housing,
in the housing. adjust the vacuum pull-down (see unit
18 Place the bi-metal coil housing in position, rod assembly.
adjustment), then fit the coil housing.
with the coil engaged with the slot in the 9 Make a note of the exact position of the
choke lever which projects through the cut- choke mechanism return and tension springs,

3
out in the heat shield. then undo the nut and remove the connecting 23 Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
rod, levers and link from the choke housing removal and refitting
19 Screw in the retaining screws finger tight,
(see illustration).
and then rotate the housing to set the housing
10 Clean and inspect all the parts for wear,
mark opposite the dot punch mark on the
damage, cracking or distortion. Pay particular
choke body (see illustration). Secure the
attention to the condition of the pull-down Removal
housing.
diaphragm and the choke housing O-ring 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
20 Reconnect the hoses and refit the air
seal. Renew any parts as necessary. 2 Remove the air cleaner.
cleaner.
3 If the engine is still hot, depressurise the
21 Check and if necessary top-up the Refitting cooling system by carefully releasing the
cooling system. 11 Reassemble the choke mechanism pressure cap.
connecting rod, levers, link and springs. 4 Disconnect the coolant inlet and outlet
22 Weber 2V TLD carburettor Secure the assembly with the retaining nut. hoses at the automatic choke and clamp or
automatic choke unit -
removal and refitting
3 12 Locate the vacuum pull-down diaphragm
and operating rod in the choke housing and
with the diaphragm lying flat on the housing
plug their ends to prevent coolant loss.
5 Disconnect the throttle cable by releasing
the spring clip securing the end fitting to the
face, refit the cover and secure with the three ball-stud, then unscrewing the cable bracket
Removal screws. fixing bolts.
1 Remove the air cleaner.
2 Release any pressure in the cooling system
by loosening the pressure cap, then detach
the water inlet and outlet hoses at the
automatic choke unit. Clamp the hoses or
position them with their ends facing upwards
to minimise coolant leakage.
3 Disconnect the lead at the anti-run-on valve
solenoid.
4 Disconnect the fuel supply and return
hoses at the carburettor. If crimped type hose
clips are used, cut them off and use screw
type clips at reassembly.
5 Undo the six carburettor upper body
retaining screws and remove the upper body.
Note that four of the screws are of the Torx
type and a suitable key or socket bit will be 22.9 Exploded view of automatic choke - Weber 2V TLD carburettor
needed for their removal.
6 With the upper body removed, undo the A Operating link E Pull-down link
three screws and remove the choke bi-metal B Fast idle cam return spring F Actuating lever
coil housing followed by the internal heat C Spindle sleeve G O-ring seal
shield (see illustration). D Connecting rod and lever
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4•17

6 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses, 3 Release the cooling system pressure cap
noting their respective positions, and plug and then disconnect the coolant hoses from
them after removal. If crimped type clips are the carburettor. Tie the ends of the hoses up
used, cut them off and use screw type clips as high as they will go to avoid loss of coolant.
when refitting. 4 Disconnect and plug the fuel hose (see
7 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses. illustration).
8 Disconnect the electrical lead at the anti- 5 Disconnect the electrical lead from the fuel
run-on valve solenoid. cut-off solenoid valve.
9 Using a suitable Torx type key or socket bit, 6 Disconnect the vacuum and vent hoses
unscrew the four mounting through-bolts from from the carburettor.
the top of the carburettor and remove the unit 7 Disconnect the throttle and choke
from the manifold (see illustration). operating cables.
8 Remove the four screws (two Torx type)
Refitting 23.9 Carburettor mounting through-bolts -
Weber 2V TLD carburettor and lift the carburettor from the inlet manifold.
10 Refitting is the reverse sequence to
removal but use a new flange gasket and Fast idle Refitting
ensure that the mating faces are perfectly 3 Have the engine at normal operating 9 When refitting the carburettor, use a new
clean. On completion, top-up the cooling temperature with a reliable tachometer flange gasket and adjust the choke cable to
system and check the idle speed and mixture connected in accordance with the the correct setting.
settings. manufacturer’s instructions, and the air
cleaner removed.
26 Exhaust and inlet manifolds -
24 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor
- adjustment
3
4 Hold the choke valve plate fully open with
the fingers, and then operate the choke lever
on the carburettor. If the engine fast idle
removal and refitting 3
speed is not as specified, turn the fast idle
screw (see illustration). This will be sealed Refer to Chapter 2 for removal and refitting
with liquid sealant, and the screw should be of the manifolds.
Idle speed locked in a similar manner on completion of
1 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10. adjustment.
27 Exhaust system - renewal
Idle mixture and repair 2
2 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11. 25 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor
- removal and refitting 3 Renewal
1 The exhaust system fitted to all models is of
Removal two-piece construction but there are three
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. different system types fitted, according to
2 Remove the air cleaner. model type (see illustration).
4

24.4 Fast idle adjustment screw -

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

25.4 Fuel supply and return hose

arrangement with calibrated T-piece -
Weber (1V) TLM carburettor 27.1 Exhaust systems
A Fuel supply hose A OHV models B CVH models C XR2 models
4•18 Fuel and exhaust systems

27.3 Exhaust system flexible hanger 29.2 Spark sustain valve is marked for 29.8 Fuel trap is marked for direction of
direction of fitting fitting
2 The system can be renewed in sections, as A to PVS B to distributor Ported vacuum switch
coupling sleeves are supplied so that an old
2 In addition, whenever working on any of 3 Remove the filler cap from the expansion
section can be cut out and a new one inserted
these systems, make a careful note of any tank to reduce pressure in the cooling system.
without the need to renew the entire system at
If the engine is hot, remove the cap slowly
the same time. electrical or vacuum line connections before
using a rag to prevent scalding.
3 It is recommended, when working on an removing, to ensure correct refitting.
4 Disconnect the vacuum lines and, if
exhaust system, that the complete assembly
be removed from under the vehicle by Positive crankcase ventilation necessary, the water hoses, then unscrew the
(PCV) valve from the inlet manifold or adapter.
releasing the downpipe from the manifold and
5 When refitting the valve, note that the
unhooking the flexible suspension hangers 3 Remove all the hoses and components of
vacuum line from the carburettor is connected
(see illustration). the system and clean them in paraffin or
to the middle outlet on the PVS, the vacuum
4 Assemble the complete system, but do not petrol. Ensure that all hoses are free from any
line from the spark delay valve (where fitted) is
fully tighten the joint clips until the system is obstruction and are in a serviceable condition.
back in the vehicle. Use a new exhaust connected to the outlet nearest to the
Where applicable, similarly clean the threaded end of the PVS, and the vacuum line
manifold/flange gasket and check that the crankcase breather cap and shake it dry.
flexible mountings are in good order. from the spark sustain valve is connected to
Renew parts as necessary then refit them to the outlet furthest from the threaded end of
5 Set the silencer and expansion box in their the car.
correct attitudes in relation to the rest of the the PVS.
6 Reconnect the water hoses and, if
system before finally tightening the joint clips. Thermostatically-controlled air
necessary, top-up the cooling system.
6 Check that with reasonable deflection in cleaner
either direction, the exhaust does not knock Fuel trap
4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 29.
against any adjacent components.
7 Disconnect the vacuum lines and remove
Repair the fuel trap from the engine.
7 Effective repairs to exhaust system can be
made by using a proprietary repair kit.
29 Emission control
components - removal and
refitting
2 8 When refitting, make sure that the fuel trap
is positioned with the black side (marked
CARB) towards the carburettor and the white
side (marked DIST) towards the PVS (see
28 Emission control
components - maintenance
and testing
2 Spark delay/sustain valve
1 Disconnect the vacuum lines at the valve
and remove the valve from the engine.
illustration).

1 In view of the special test equipment and 2 When refitting a spark delay valve it must
procedures there is little that can be done in the be positioned with the black side (marked
way of maintenance and testing for the CARB) towards the carburettor and the
emissions control system. In the event of a coloured side (marked DIST) towards the
suspected malfunction of the system, check the distributor. When refitting a spark sustain
security and condition of all vacuum and valve the side marked VAC must be towards
electrical connections then, if applicable, refer to the carburettor and the side marked DIST
the following paragraphs for further information. towards the distributor (see illustration).
 5A•1

Chapter 5 Part A:
Mechanical ignition system
Contents
Condenser - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Distributor vacuum unit - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Contact breaker gap - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Contact breaker points - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Ignition lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Distributor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Ignition timing - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Spark plugs, HT leads and distributor cap - inspection and
Distributor advance - checking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Specifications
General
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery, (negative earth) coil and distributor with contact breaker
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 at timing cover end)

Ignition timing (initial)

1.0 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC
1.1 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC

Ignition timing (initial) for use with unleaded fuel

1.0 models up to 2/86* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC
1.0 models from 2/86 to 8/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC
1.1 models up to 2/86* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC
1.1 models from 2/86-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC
*Fill with leaded fuel every 4th tankful 5A
Distributor
Make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch with drive by gear on camshaft
Automatic advance method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuum control
Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwise (viewed from cap)
Condenser capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 15% microfarad
Contact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.50 mm
Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48° to 52°
Dwell variation (from idle to 2000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4° maximum
Dwell overlap (lobe-to-lobe variation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° maximum
Advance characteristics* at 2000 rpm (engine) no load: . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical Vacuum Total
1.0 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -1.0° to 4.0° 6° to 12° 5° to 16°
1.1 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° to 9° 13° to 21° 16° to 30°
*Crankshaft degrees; initial advance not included
Spark plugs ........................................... See Chapter 1 Specifications

Coil
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low voltage with 1.5 ohm ballast resistor
Output . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 kV (minimum)
Secondary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5000 to 9000 ohms

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 20 10 to 15
Distributor clamp pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Distributor clamp plate bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
5A•2 Mechanical ignition system

If the engine is being started using jump 4 Reconnect the vacuum pipe to the
1 General information and leads and a slave battery, connect the distributor and repeat the test when for the
precautions batteries positive to positive and negative same increase in engine speed, the alignment
to negative. This also applies when differential of the timing marks should be
connecting a battery charger. greater than previously observed. Refer to the
Never disconnect the battery terminals, Specifications for typical figures.
General information or alternator multi-plug connector, when 5 A further check of the vacuum advance can
A conventional ignition system is used on the engine is running. be made by removing the distributor cap after
the 1.0 and 1.1 litre OHV models marketed in The battery leads and alternator multi- the engine has been switched off,
the UK before 1986. The system consists of a plug must be disconnected before disconnecting the distributor vacuum pipe at
coil, a distributor with mechanical contact carrying out any electric welding on the its suction end, and sucking the pipe. The
car. suction should be sufficient to move the
breaker, a ballast resistor and spark plugs.
Never use an ohmmeter of the type distributor baseplate slightly.
The distributor is mounted on the cylinder incorporating a hand cranked generator 6 If these tests do not prove positive renew
block and is driven from a skew gear on the for circuit or continuity testing. the vacuum unit.
camshaft. It incorporates both mechanical Before disconnecting any wiring, or 7 Some models are equipped with a spark
and vacuum advance capability. removing components, always ensure that delay/sustain valve in the vacuum line from
The coil is mounted on the bulkhead panel the ignition is switched off. carburettor to distributor, the purpose of
and is of the oil-filled type. The ballast resistor After working on ignition system which is to delay vacuum advance under
is a grey coloured wire, built into the loom components, ensure that all wiring is certain part throttle conditions. If such a valve
which runs between the ignition switch and correctly reconnected before is suspected of malfunctioning, it should be
the coil. Its purpose is to limit the battery reconnecting the battery or switching on tested by substitution, or taken to a Ford
voltage to the coil during normal running to the ignition. dealer for specialised checking. The main
seven volts. During starting, the ballast effect of the valve is to reduce exhaust
2 Spark plugs, HT leads and
resistor is bypassed to give full battery voltage
at the coil to facilitate quick starting of the
engine.
distributor cap - inspection
and servicing
1 emission levels and it is unlikely that
malfunction would have a noticeable effect on
engine performance.
8 If a ported vacuum switch (PVS) is fitted in
The spark plugs are of small diameter and
require a long reach 16 mm (5⁄8 in AF) socket to the vacuum line, its purpose is to bypass the
Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 12, 13 and 21.
spark sustain valve when normal engine
remove them instead of a conventional spark
operating temperature (as sensed by the
plug spanner; they are of the taper seat type.
3 Contact breaker gap - temperature of the coolant flowing round the
The HT leads are of suppressed type, of
carbon cored construction. Always pull them
from the spark plugs by gripping the terminal
adjustment 3 inlet manifold) has been reached.

7 Distributor - removal and

rubber insulator, not the cable itself. The leads
are numbered, No 1 being at the spark plug
nearest the timing cover end of the engine.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 15. refitting 3
Precautions 4 Contact breaker points -
Warning: The HT voltage
generated by an ignition system
renewal 3 Removal
1 Remove the air cleaner unit.
is extremely high, and in certain 2 Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs,
circumstances could prove Refer to Chapter 1, Section 23. remove the distributor cap and place the cap
fatal. Take care to avoid receiving electric with the leads to one side.
shocks from the HT side of the ignition 3 Disconnect the LT lead from the coil
5 Ignition timing - checking and
system. Do not handle HT leads, or touch
the distributor or coil when the engine is
running. If tracing faults in the HT circuit,
adjustment 3 negative terminal and disconnect the
distributor vacuum pipe.
4 Using a ring spanner or socket on the
use well insulated tools to manipulate live crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft until
leads. Refer to Chapter 1, Section 15. No 1 piston is at TDC. Verify this by checking
It is necessary to take extra care when that the timing cover mark is aligned with the
working on the electrical system to avoid notch on the crankshaft pulley and that the
6 Distributor advance -
damage to semi-conductor devices and to
avoid the risk of personal injury. In
addition to the precautions given in the
“Safety first!” Section at the beginning of
checking 3 rotor arm (contact end) is pointing to the No 1
spark plug lead contact in the distributor cap
when fitted. Do not turn the crankshaft again
until after the distributor has been refitted.
this manual, take note of the following 1 A secondary use of a timing light is to check 5 Mark the position of the rotor arm on the
points when working on the system. rim of the distributor body (see illustration).
that the centrifugal and vacuum advance
Always remove rings, watches, etc 6 Mark the position of the distributor body in
functions of the distributor are working.
before working on the electrical system. relation to the cylinder block.
2 The tests are not precise, as would be the
Even with the battery disconnected, 7 Remove the bolt which holds the distributor
case if sophisticated equipment were used, but clamp plate to the cylinder block, do not
capacitive discharge could occur if a
will at least indicate the serviceability of the unit. remove the distributor by releasing the clamp
component live terminal is earthed
3 With the engine idling, timing light pinch-bolt.
through a metal object. This could cause a
connected and vacuum pipe disconnected 8 Withdraw the distributor.
shock or nasty burn.
and plugged, increase the engine speed to
Do not reverse the battery connections. Refitting
2000 rpm and note the approximate distance
Components could be irreparably
which the pulley mark moves out of alignment 9 To install the original distributor, hold it over
damaged.
with the mark on the scale. its hole in the cylinder block so that the mark
 Mechanical ignition system 5A•3

being fitted, install the distributor in the

following way.
13 Set No 1 piston to TDC. To do this,
remove No 1 spark plug and place the finger
8 Distributor vacuum unit -
renewal 3
over the plug hole. Turn the crankshaft pulley
bolt until compression can be felt, which 1 This will normally only be required if a new
indicates that No 1 piston is rising on its firing unit is to be fitted because a fault has been
stroke. Continue turning until the timing marks diagnosed in the old one.
for TDC are in alignment. 2 Remove the distributor cap and the rotor
14 Hold the distributor over its hole in the arm. Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
cylinder block so that the vacuum unit is unit.
aligned with the engine oil dipstick guide tube. 3 Extract the circlip which holds the vacuum
15 Set the rotor arm to anticipate its rotation advance actuating rod to the pivot post.
7.5 Rotor arm (A) with rim alignment 4 Extract the two screws which hold the unit
as the gears mesh on installation,
mark (B) to the distributor body, tilt the unit downwards
remembering that the arm will turn in an anti-
made before removal is aligned with the one clockwise direction and should take up a final to release the actuating rod from the pivot
on the cylinder block (No 1 piston still at TDC). position with its contact end opposite No 1 post and then withdraw the unit.
10 When the distributor is installed, the spark plug lead contact (as if the distributor 5 Fitting is a reversal of removal, but apply a
meshing of the drive and driven gears will cap is fitted). little grease to the pivot post. Fitting may be
cause the rotor arm to rotate in an anti- made easier if the distributor baseplate is
16 Release the clamp plate pinch-bolt and
rotated slightly with the fingers.
clockwise direction. This must be anticipated install the distributor. Check that the body and
by positioning the rotor arm a few degrees in rotor arm are correctly positioned, then swivel
advance of its final marked position. 9 Condenser - renewal
3
the clamp plate as necessary to be able to
11 Install the distributor and check that the screw in the clamp plate bolt. Tighten the
rotor arm and distributor body marks are clamp plate pinch-bolt.
aligned with the marks made before removal. 17 Fit the distributor cap and reconnect the
Tighten the clamp plate bolt. HT and LT leads. 1 If the condenser is suspected of being
12 If the distributor was removed without 18 Check the timing and then reconnect the faulty, it may be removed and a new one fitted
marking its position, or if a new distributor is vacuum pipe to the distributor. without having to remove the distributor.
2 Release the HT leads from the spark plugs,
take off the distributor cap and place the cap
and the leads to one side. Remove the rotor
arm.
3 Disconnect the LT lead from the coil
negative terminal.
4 Mark the position of the distributor body in
relation to the clamp plate and then release
the clamp plate pinch-bolt.
5 Turn the distributor approximately 120° in a
clockwise direction to expose the condenser
and extract its securing screw. Pull off its lead
connecting block and remove the condenser.
6 Fitting is a reversal of removal.
5A
7 Check the ignition timing on completion.

10 Distributor - overhaul
3
1 Dismantling of the distributor should not be
taken beyond the renewal of components
described in earlier Sections of this Chapter
(see illustration).
2 Internal components are not supplied as
spares. In the event of severe wear having
taken place, obtain a new or reconditioned
unit.

10.1 Bosch distributor showing

components which are renewable
1 Vacuum supply 5 Condenser
pipe 6 Contact breakers
2 Distributor unit 7 Rotor arm
3 Distributor clamp 8 Distributor cap
4 Vacuum unit
5A•4 Mechanical ignition system

11 Ignition lock cylinder -

removal and refitting 2
1 Disconnect the battery earth terminal, then
remove the steering column lower shroud.
2 Insert the ignition key into the lock and turn
to position 1.
3 Using a screwdriver, depress the cylinder
retaining clip and withdraw the lock cylinder
by pulling on the key (see illustration).
4 Refit by simply pushing the cylinder into
position with the key held in position 1.
5 It should be noted that the steering column
lock and tube are a combined unit and the
lock cannot be renewed separately.

11.3 Ignition lock cylinder removal

 5B•1

Chapter 5 Part B:
Electronic ignition system
Contents
Distributor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Ignition lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Ignition timing - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Spark plugs, HT leads and distributor cap - inspection and
Ignition amplifier module - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Specifications
General
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery, (negative earth), coil and distributor (breakerless electronic
ignition) incorporating electronic module
Firing order:
OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 at timing cover end)
CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 at timing cover end)

Ignition timing (initial)

1.0 litre (2/86 to 8/86) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC at idling speed
1.0 litre (8/86-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10° BTDC at idling speed
1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC at idling speed
1.3 and 1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC

Ignition timing (initial) for use with unleaded fuel

1.0 models from 8/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10° BTDC
1.1 models from 2/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC
1.3 models up to 12/84* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC
1.3 models from 12/84 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC
1.4 models up to 1/87 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC
1.4 models from 1/87 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC
1.6 models up to 12/84* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC 5B
1.6 models from 12/84 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC
*Fill with leaded fuel every 4th tankful

Distributor
Make:
OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch
CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch or Lucas
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Breakerless
Automatic advance method:
1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuum
1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuum
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ESC module
Drive:
1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skew gear on camshaft
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dog on camshaft
Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwise (viewed from top)
Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-adjustable (governed by module)
Advance characteristics (total) at 2000 rpm (engine speed):
1.0 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° to 15°
1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16° to 28°
1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18° to 34°
1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18° to 30°
1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17° to 30.2°
Spark plugs ........................................... See Chapter 1 Specifications
5B•2 Electronic ignition system

Coil
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High output breakerless ignition coil
Output (open circuit condition):
1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 kV (minimum)
1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 kV (minimum)
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 kV (minimum)
Primary resistance:
1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.13 to 1.33 ohms
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.72 to 0.88 ohms
Secondary resistance:
1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3500 to 6500 ohms
1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4500 to 8600 ohms
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4000 to 7000 ohms

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20
Distributor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

breakerless systems is distinguished by a generating system. As each of the trigger

1 General information and yellow label on the case. wheel teeth pass through the magnetic field
precautions The spark plugs used are the copper cored created around the trigger coil in the
resistor type with a metric thread form. Only distributor, a change in the magnetic field
this type of plug is suitable for use in the force (flux) is created which induces a voltage
electronic ignition system. in the trigger coil. This voltage is passed to the
General information
Repair and overhaul operations should be electronic amplifier module which switches off
Pre-1986 models limited to those described in this Chapter as the ignition coil primary circuit. This results in
The electronic system fitted to Fiesta only the distributor cap, rotor arm, and HT the collapse of the magnetic field in the coil
models manufactured before 1986 consists of leads are available as repair parts, all other which generates the high tension voltage. The
items are sealed and only renewable as high tension voltage is then fed via the carbon
a breakerless distributor driven from the end
complete units. Should a fault in the system brush in the centre of the distributor cap to
of the camshaft, an electronic amplifier
develop or be suspected, the advice of your the rotor arm. The voltage passes across to
module mounted on the bulkhead on the left-
dealer should be sought. Fault diagnosis the appropriate metal segment in the cap and
hand side, and a high output type ignition coil
procedures are lengthy and must follow a via the spark plug lead to the spark plug
fitted next to the amplifier module on the
systematic approach using sophisticated test where it finally jumps the spark plug gap to
bulkhead.
equipment. For these reasons fault diagnosis earth.
The breakerless distributor is of Bosch
and repair are considered to be beyond the The distributor used on the electronic
manufacture and is distinguishable from
scope of the average owner. ignition system of OHV engines is of Bosch
conventional systems by its blue distributor
manufacture, whereas on CVH engines either
cap. The unit has no mechanical contact 1986 models onwards
a Bosch or Lucas unit may be used. Although
breaker or condenser, these components From 1986 onwards, all Fiesta models are the components of the signal generating
being replaced by a trigger wheel, a trigger fitted with breakerless electronic ignition system differ between the Bosch and Lucas
coil and a stator. The action of the distributor systems. 1.6 litre CVH models retain the same distributors, the principles of operation of
is to provide a pulse to the electronic module basic system as described above for the pre both are as just described. The distributor is
which in turn actuates the ignition coil to ignite 1986 models, except that the electronic driven by a skew gear from the camshaft on
the fuel/air mixture via the HT leads and spark module is integral with the distributor. 1.0 and the OHV engine and by an offset dog on the
plugs. 1.1 litre OHV and 1.4 litre CVH models are end of the camshaft on CVH engines.
The electronic amplifier module is a sealed equipped with a new system also The ignition advance is a function of the
unit located on the left-hand side of the incorporating an electronic module integral distributor and is controlled both mechanically
engine compartment bulkhead. The function with the distributor. The new system operates and by a vacuum-operated system. The
of the module is to sense the trigger pulse in the following way. mechanical governor mechanism consists of
from the distributor and amplify its voltage The ignition system is divided into two two weights which move out from the
sufficiently to operate the module’s output circuits, low tension (primary) and high distributor shaft as the engine speed rises due
transistor. On receipt of this amplified voltage tension (secondary). The low tension circuit to centrifugal force. As they move outwards
the module shuts off the ignition coil primary consists of the battery, ignition switch, they rotate the trigger wheel relative to the
circuit allowing HT voltage to build up within primary coil windings, electronic amplifier distributor shaft and so advance the spark.
the coil in the conventional manner and fire module and the signal generating system The weights are held in position by two light
the appropriate spark plug via the distributor inside the distributor. The signal generating springs and it is the tension of the springs
and HT leads. On completion of the firing system comprises the trigger coil, trigger which is largely responsible for correct spark
cycle the primary circuit is then switched on wheel, stator, permanent magnets and stator advancement.
again by the module and the cycle is repeated pick-up. The high tension circuit consists of The vacuum control consists of a
for the next cylinder. the secondary coil windings, the heavy diaphragm, one side of which is connected
The ignition coil operates on conventional ignition lead from the centre of the distributor via a small bore hose to the carburettor, and
principles but with a higher output voltage. cap to the coil, the rotor arm and the spark the other side to the distributor. Depression in
The unit is rated at 8 volts and is supplied via plug leads and spark plugs. the inlet manifold and carburettor, which
a ballast resistor wire during normal running. When the system is in operation, low varies with engine speed and throttle position,
When starting the engine the ballast resistor tension voltage is changed in the coil into high causes the diaphragm to move, so moving the
wire is bypassed and the coil receives full tension voltage by the action of the electronic baseplate and advancing or retarding the
battery voltage. The coil used on electronic amplifier module in conjunction with the signal spark. A fine degree of control is achieved by
 Electronic ignition system 5B•3

a spring in the diaphragm assembly. When carrying out welding operations on

Additionally, one or more vacuum valves and
temperature sensitive control valves may be
incorporated in the vacuum line between inlet
manifold or carburettor and the distributor.
the vehicle using electric welding equipment,
the battery and alternator should be
disconnected.
Although underbonnet-mounted modules
2 Spark plugs, HT leads and
distributor cap - inspection
and servicing
1
These control the duration of the vacuum felt will tolerate normal underbonnet conditions,
at the distributor and are part of the vehicle they can be adversely affected by excess heat Warning: Never remove spark
emission control systems. or moisture. If using welding equipment or plugs from a CVH engine when
pressure washing equipment in the vicinity of it is hot.
Precautions the module, take care not to direct heat, or
General jets of water or steam at the module. If this 1 In general, the same information applies as is
cannot be avoided, remove the module from made in Section 2 of Chapter 5A. Note,
It is necessary to take extra care when
the vehicle, and protect its wiring plug with a however, that a different type of plug is used
working on the electrical system to avoid
plastic bag. and that its electrode gap and tightening torque
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes Before disconnecting any wiring, or are different (see Chapter 1 Specifications).
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of removing components, always ensure that the 2 Only remove plugs from the CVH engine
personal injury. In addition to the precautions ignition is switched off. when it is warm or cold - never when it is hot.
given in the “Safety first!” Section at the On models with underbonnet-mounted 3 Note that the firing order on the CVH engine
beginning of this manual, take note of the modules, do not run the engine with the is different from the OHV engine.
following points when working on the system: module detached from the body panel, as the
Always remove rings, watches, etc body acts as an effective heat sink, and the
before working on the electrical system.
Even with the battery disconnected,
capacitive discharge could occur if a
component live terminal is earthed through
module may be damaged due to internal
overheating.
Do not attempt to improvise fault diagnosis
3 Distributor - removal and
refitting 3
procedures using a test lamp or multimeter,
a metal object. This could cause a shock or as irreparable damage could be caused to the
nasty burn. module.
Pre-1986 models
Do not reverse the battery connections. After working on ignition/engine Removal
Components such as the alternator or any management system components, ensure 1 The distributor is precisely positioned for
other having semi-conductor circuitry that all wiring is correctly reconnected before optimum ignition timing during production
could be irreparably damaged. reconnecting the battery or switching on the and marked accordingly with a punch mark on
If the engine is being started using jump ignition. the distributor mounting flange and the
leads and a slave battery, connect the On some early Bosch distributors it is cylinder head (see illustration).
batteries positive to positive and negative possible that with the distributor cap 2 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
to negative. This also applies when removed, if the engine is cranked, the cap plugs.
connecting a battery charger. securing clips may fall inward and jam the 3 Disconnect the wiring harness multi-plug
Never disconnect the battery terminals, trigger wheel/vane, knocking it out of from the distributor.
or alternator multi-plug connector, when alignment. If this happens, the distributor will 4 Release the distributor cap retaining clips,
the engine is running. have to be renewed as the trigger wheel/vane lift off the cap and position it, with the HT
The battery leads and alternator multi- cannot be repositioned. Care should therefore leads, to one side (see illustration).
plug must be disconnected before carrying be taken not to crank the engine with the 5 Unscrew and remove the two distributor
out any electric welding on the car. distributor cap removed. Later distributors flange mounting bolts and withdraw the
Never use an ohmmeter of the type have redesigned clips which eliminate the distributor from the cylinder head.
incorporating a hand cranked generator for problem. 6 Check the distributor spindle for side-to- 5B
circuit or continuity testing. side movement. If excessive movement is
Ignition coil
found, the distributor must be renewed as it is
Ignition and engine management The LT connections to the coil used with not possible to obtain individual components
systems electronic ignition cannot be confused as the for overhaul.
terminals are of different size. Never fit a coil Refitting
Warning: The HT voltage from a conventional ignition system into an
generated by an electronic 7 Before refitting the distributor, check the
electronic ignition system otherwise the condition of the oil seal beneath the mounting
ignition system is extremely amplifier module may be damaged. flange and renew it if necessary.
high, and in certain
circumstances could prove fatal. Take
care to avoid receiving electric shocks
from the HT side of the ignition system.
Do not handle HT leads, or touch the
distributor or coil when the engine is
running. If tracing faults in the HT circuit,
use well insulated tools to manipulate live
leads.

Engine management modules are very

sensitive components, and certain
precautions must be taken to avoid damage
to the module when working on a vehicle
equipped with an engine management system 3.1 Distributor and cylinder head 3.4 Distributor cap removal
as follows. alignment marks (arrowed)
5B•4 Electronic ignition system

3.15 Ignition timing marks - pre 1986 3.21 The distributor LT wiring multi-plug

8 Hold the distributor so that the punch 14 Reconnect the distributor cap, the spark 25 Continue turning the crankshaft until the
marks on the distributor body and the offset plug leads and the LT multi-plug. notch on the pulley is aligned with the correct
drive dog are in approximate alignment, then 15 Using a little quick-drying white paint, setting on the scale located just above and to
insert the distributor into its recess. increase the contrast of the timing notch in the right of the pulley. The “O” mark on the
9 Check that the drive components have the crankshaft pulley and the appropriate scale represents top dead centre (TDC) and
engaged and then rotate the distributor until mark on the timing belt cover scale (see the raised projections to the left of TDC are in
the punch marks on flange and head are in illustration). increments of 4° BTDC (see illustration).
alignment. Insert the bolts and tighten to the 16 Connect a timing light (stroboscope) in 26 Check that the rotor arm is pointing to the
specified torque. accordance with the manufacturer’s notch on the rim of the distributor body (see
10 Reconnect all the disconnected instructions. illustration).
components. 17 Start the engine, allow it to idle and point 27 Make a mark on the distributor body and
the timing light at the timing marks. They a corresponding mark on the cylinder block to
New unit aid refitting.
should appear stationary and in alignment. If
11 Where a new distributor is being installed, they are not, rotate the distributor as 28 Undo the bolt securing the distributor
its flange will obviously not have a punch clamp plate to the cylinder block, then
necessary to bring them into line and then
mark and it must therefore be fitted in the withdraw the distributor from its location. As
tighten one of the distributor bolts.
following way. the distributor is removed, the rotor arm will
18 Switch off the engine, remove the timing
12 Hold the distributor in approximately its move a few degrees clockwise. Note the new
light and then tighten all the distributor
fitted position and also ensure that the drive position of the rotor arm and make an
mounting bolts to the specified torque. alignment mark on the distributor body rim.
dog is in approximately the correct alignment 19 Punch mark the distributor flange at a
to engage with the offset segments of the point exactly opposite the mark on the Refitting
camshaft dog. cylinder head. Future installation can then be 29 Before installing the distributor make sure
13 Locate the distributor on the cylinder carried out as described in paragraphs 1 to 10 that the crankshaft is still positioned as
head. When you are sure that the drive dogs of this Section. previously described. If a new distributor is
are fully engaged, screw in the flange bolts so being fitted, transfer the markings made
that they are not only positioned centrally in 1.0 and 1.1 litre models - 1986 during removal to the new unit.
the flange slots, but still allow the distributor onwards
to be rotated stiffly.
Removal
20 Disconnect the leads from the spark
plugs, spring back the retaining clips and lift
off the distributor cap.
21 Disconnect the distributor LT wiring multi-
plug (see illustration) and the vacuum hose
at the distributor vacuum unit.
22 Remove No 1 spark plug (nearest the
crankshaft pulley).
23 Place a finger over the plug hole and turn
the crankshaft in thermal direction of rotation
(clockwise viewed from the crankshaft pulley
end) until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder. This
indicates that the piston is commencing its
compression stroke. The crankshaft can be
turned with a spanner on the pulley bolt.
3.25 Ignition timing marks - 1986 on 24 Refer to the Specifications and look up
A Crankshaft pulley notch the ignition timing setting for the engine being 3.26 Rotor arm in alignment with
B Timing cover scale worked on. distributor body rim notch
 Electronic ignition system 5B•5

30 Hold the distributor over its hole in the

cylinder block, with the mark made on the
distributor body aligned with the mark made
on the cylinder block.
31 Position the rotor arm so that it points to
the mark made on the distributor rim after
removal, and push the distributor fully home.
As the skew gears mesh, the rotor arm will
move anti-clockwise and should align with the 4.2 Electronic distributor components
manufacturer’s mark on the distributor rim.
32 With the distributor in place, turn the body A Trigger wheel
slightly if necessary so that the arms of the B Stator
trigger wheel and stator are aligned, then refit C Magnet
and tighten the clamp plate bolt. D Trigger coil
33 Reconnect the LT wiring multi-plug and E Rotor arm
vacuum hose, then refit the distributor cap, F LT multi-plug
spark plug and plug leads.
34 Adjust the ignition timing.
1.4 litre models
35 The procedure is the same as described
in paragraphs 1 to 19 but additionally, Bosch distributor (1.4 litre
4 Distributor - overhaul
3
disconnect the vacuum pipe at the distributor models)
vacuum unit. When refitting the distributor,
leave the vacuum pipe disconnected and plug 8 Remove the distributor from the engine.
its end when setting the distributor position. 9 Remove the rotor arm and where fitted the
Refit the pipe on completion. plastic shield (see illustration).
Note: Ensure that replacement parts are 10 Undo the two screws securing the
readily available before carrying out any vacuum unit to the side of the distributor body
overhaul or repair work on the distributor. (see illustration). Tip the unit to release the
1.0 and 1.1 litre models - 1986 rod from the baseplate pivot post and
onwards withdraw it from the distributor.
11 Undo the two screws securing the
1 Remove the distributor from the engine.
electronic amplifier module and remove the
2 Remove the rotor arm (see illustration).
module (see illustration).
3 Extract the circlip securing the vacuum unit
rod to the baseplate pivot post. 12 This is the limit of dismantling that can be
4 Undo the two vacuum unit retaining screws, undertaken. Should the distributor be worn or
tip the unit to release the rod from the pivot unserviceable in any other respect, renewal of
post and withdraw it from the distributor body. the complete unit will be necessary.
5 Undo the two electronic amplifier module 13 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling.
retaining screws and detach the module (see Lubricate the baseplate pivot post with a
illustration). high-melting-point grease and apply heat sink
6 This is the limit of dismantling that can be compound, available from Ford parts dealers,
undertaken. Should the distributor be worn or to the back of the amplifier module before 5B
unserviceable in any other respect, renewal of fitting.
the complete unit will be necessary. Lucas distributor (1.4 litre
7 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling. models)
Lubricate the baseplate pivot post with a
high-melting-point grease and apply heat sink 14 Remove the distributor from the engine.
4.5 Electronic amplifier module retaining compound, available from Ford parts dealers, 15 Remove the rotor arm.
screws to the back of the amplifier module before 16 Undo the two electronic amplifier
refitting. retaining screws and remove the amplifier.

4.9 Removing the rotor arm from the 4.10 Vacuum unit left-hand retaining 4.11 Removing the amplifier module
distributor screw
5B•6 Electronic ignition system

4.17 Separating the distributor body halves 4.19 Rubber seal and trigger coil connector (A)

17 Undo the three screws and separate the

two halves of the distributor body (see
illustration).
18 Withdraw the plastic spacer ring from the
5 Ignition timing - adjustment
3 6 Ignition amplifier module -
renewal 2
body upper half.
19 Withdraw the rubber seal, then pull the 1 The ignition amplifier cannot be repaired
connection off the trigger coil terminals (see
1.0, 1.1 and 1.4 litre models - and, if known to be defective, must be renewed
1986 onwards as a unit. The vacuum advance characteristics
illustration). Note the fitted direction of the
connector to aid refitting. 1 On 1.0 and 1.1 litre models the procedure is of the module can be checked, but this is a
20 Tip the trigger coil up and remove it from the same as described in Chapter 5A but task best entrusted to your Ford dealer.
ignore all references to dwell angle checking, 2 To remove the module unit first disconnect
the body upper half.
as this is not applicable to electronic ignition the battery earth lead.
21 Extract the stator retaining circlip and the
distributors. 3 Detach the wiring connector from the module
upper shim (see illustration).
2 On 1.4 litre models refer to the procedure by pulling on the connector, not the leads.
22 Lift out the stator and the lower shim. contained in Section 3, paragraphs 1 to 19, 4 Detach the vacuum hose from the module,
23 Slacken the vacuum unit retaining screw but note that the distributor vacuum pipe undo and remove the single retaining screw
and remove the vacuum unit (see illustration). must be disconnected and plugged during the and remove the module.
24 This is the limit of dismantling that can be checking operation. 5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
undertaken. Should the distributor be worn or procedure.
unserviceable in any other respect, renewal of Adjustments for unleaded fuel
the complete unit will be necessary. 3 In order to operate vehicles on 95 RON
25 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling.
Lubricate the vacuum unit peg with a high-
melting-point grease and apply heat sink
unleaded petrol, the ignition timing may need
to be retarded to avoid pinking.
4 Ignition timing values for use with unleaded
7 Ignition lock cylinder -
removal and refitting 2
compound, available from Ford dealers, to the petrol are given in Specifications.
back of the amplifier module before refitting. Refer to Chapter 5A, Section 11.

4.21 The distributor stator components 4.23 The distributor vacuum unit

A Circlip B Upper shim C Stator D Lower shim

 5C•1

Chapter 5 Part C:
Starting and charging systems
Contents
Alternator - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Alternator brushes and regulator - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Starter motor - brush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Alternator drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Battery - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Starter motor - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Specifications
System type ........................................... 12V negative earth, belt-driven alternator, pre-engaged starter motor

Battery
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12V, lead-acid
Charge condition:
12.5V or above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Satisfactory
Below 12.5V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Recharge

Bosch alternator
Rated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (K1-45A) or 55A (K1-55A)
Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15000 rpm
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm
Regulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 volts
Stator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.099 (K1-45A) or 0.07 to 0.077 (K1-55A)
Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.40 to 3.74 (K1-45A and K1-55A)

Lucas (type B) alternator

Rated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (A133/45) or 55A (A133/55)
Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpm 5C
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm
Regulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 volts
Stator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.285 to 0.305* (A133/45) or 0.088 to 0.108† (A133/45) or 0.203 (A133/55)
Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.04 to 3.36 (A133/45 and A133/55)
*Lucas Delta-type winding
†Lucas Star-type winding

Lucas (type D) alternator

Rated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A or 55A
Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpm
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm
Regulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 volts
Stator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.229 to 0.254
Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.04 to 3.36 (A127/45 and A127/55)

Motorola alternator
Rated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (SD-45)
Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpm
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm
Regulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 volts
Stator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.23 to 0.33 (SD-45)
Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8 to 4.2 (SD-45)

Mitsubishi alternator
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm
5C•2 Starting and charging systems

Drivebelt tension
Using a belt tension gauge:
CVH engine:
New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 to 500N (90 to 113 lbf)
Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 to 400N (68 to 90 lbf)
OHV engine:
New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 to 450N (79 to 101 lbf)
Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 350N (56 to 79 lbf)
Using finger pressure:
All types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 mm deflection on longest run
A used belt is one which has been in operation for at least 10 minutes

Bosch long frame and Cajavec starter motors

Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.85 kW or 0.95 kW
Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm
Minimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.8 mm
Armature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm

Bosch short frame starter motor

Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 kW or 0.8 kW
Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm
Minimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.8 mm
Armature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm

Lucas starter motor

Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8M90 or 9M90
Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm
Armature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm

Nippondenso starter motor

Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 kW or 0.9 kW
Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm
Minimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.0 mm
Armature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 mm

personal injury. In addition to the precautions

1 General information and
precautions
given in the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual, take note of the
following points when working on the system:
Always remove rings, watches, etc
2 Battery - removal and refitting
1
before working on the electrical system.
General information
Even with the battery disconnected, Warning: When reconnecting
The electrical system is of the 12 volt capacitive discharge could occur if a the battery, always connect the
negative earth type and comprises a 12 volt component live terminal is earthed positive lead first and the
battery, alternator with integral voltage through a metal object. This could cause a negative lead last.
regulator, starter motor and related electrical shock or nasty burn.
accessories, components and wiring. The 1 Open the bonnet and support it on its stay.
Do not reverse the battery connections.
battery is charged by an alternator which is 2 The battery is mounted on the left-hand
Components such as the alternator or any
belt-driven. side in the engine compartment.
other having semi-conductor circuitry
The starter motor is of the pre-engaged could be irreparably damaged.
type incorporating an integral solenoid. On If the engine is being started using jump
starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion leads and a slave battery, connect the
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear batteries positive to positive and negative
before the starter motor is energised. Once to negative. This also applies when
the engine has started, a one-way clutch connecting a battery charger.
prevents the motor armature being driven by Never disconnect the battery terminals,
the engine until the pinion disengages from or alternator multi-plug connector, when
the flywheel. the engine is running.
The battery leads and alternator multi-
Precautions plug must be disconnected before carrying
It is necessary to take extra care when out any electric welding on the car.
working on the electrical system to avoid Never use an ohmmeter of the type
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes incorporating a hand cranked generator 2.3 Battery lead terminals (arrowed)
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of for circuit or continuity testing.
 Starting and charging systems 5C•3

6 Top-up the cell with a solution of 1 part under “charge condition”. The test is only
sulphuric acid to 2.5 parts of distilled water. If accurate if the battery has not been subject to
the cell is already topped up draw some any kind of charge for the previous six hours.
electrolyte out of it with a pipette. If this is not the case switch on the headlights
7 It is preferable to obtain ready mixed for 30 seconds then wait four to five minutes
electrolyte: however, if the solution is to be
before testing the battery after switching off
mixed note the following:
the headlights. All other electrical components
must be switched off, so check that the doors
Warning: The water must never
and boot lid are fully shut when making the
be added to the sulphuric acid
otherwise it will explode. Always test.
pour the acid slowly onto the 15 If the voltage reading is less than the 12.2
water in a glass or plastic container. volts then the battery is discharged, whilst a
2.4 Battery retaining clamp reading of 12.2 to 12.5 volts indicates a
partially discharged condition.
General inspection
3 Disconnect the negative (earth) lead, 16 If the battery is to be charged, remove it
8 Wipe clean the top of the battery with a dry from the vehicle and charge it as follows:
followed by the positive lead (see cloth to prevent the accumulation of dust and
illustration). dampness which may cause the battery to Charging
4 Unbolt and remove the clamps from the become partially discharged over a period.
nibs at the base of the battery casing (see 17 In winter time when heavy demand is
9 Check the battery clamp and platform for
illustration). placed upon the battery, such as when
corrosion. If evident remove the battery and
5 Lift the battery from its location, taking care clean the deposits away. Then treat the starting from cold and much electrical
not to spill electrolyte on the paintwork. affected metal with a proprietary anti-rust equipment is continually in use, it is a good
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. liquid and paint with the original colour. idea to have the battery occasionally fully
10 Whenever the battery is removed it is charged from an external source.
worthwhile checking it for cracks and leakage.
3 Battery - maintenance
2 Cracks can be caused by topping-up the cells
with distilled water in winter after instead of
before a run. This gives the water no chance
Conventional and low maintenance
batteries
18 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4
to mix with the electrolyte, so the former amps and continue to charge the battery at
Terminal check freezes and splits the battery case. If the case this rate until no further rise in specific gravity
is fractured, it may be possible to repair it with is noted over a four hour period.
1 To clean the battery terminals disconnect a proprietary compound but this depends on 19 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at
them, negative earth first, after having first the material used for the case. a rate of 1.5 amps can be safely used
removed the cover (where fitted). Use a wire
Testing overnight.
brush or abrasive paper to clean the
20 Specially rapid “boost” charges which are
terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated 11 If the car covers a small annual mileage it
claimed to restore the power of the battery in
with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied is worthwhile checking the specific gravity of
with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution the electrolyte every three months to 1 to 2 hours are not recommended as they
get inside the battery. determine the state of charge of the battery. can cause serious damage to the battery
2 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum Use a hydrometer to make the check and plates through overheating.
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound compare the results with the following table: 21 While charging the battery, note that the
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and Ambient temperature 25ºC (77ºF): temperature of the electrolyte should never 5C
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by above below exceed 37.8°C (100°F).
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten. Fully charged 1.21 to 1.23 1.27 to 1.29
Maintenance-free batteries
70% charged 1.17 to 1.19 1.23 to 1.25
Electrolyte level check Fully discharged 1.05 to 1.07 1.11 to 1.13 22 This battery type takes considerably
Note that the specific gravity readings assume longer to fully recharge than the conventional
3 The battery fitted as standard equipment is
probably of the low maintenance type. an electrolyte temperature of 15°C (60°F); for type, the time taken being dependent on the
every 10°C (18°F) below 15°C (60°F) subtract extent of discharge, but it can take anything
However if a non-standard battery is fitted the
0.007. For every 10°C (18°F) above 15°C up to three days.
following checks should be made.
(60°F) add 0.007. 23 A constant voltage type charger is
4 Remove the cell covers and check that the
12 If the battery condition is suspect, first required and this set, when connected, to
plate separators in each cell are covered by
check the specific gravity of electrolyte in 13.9 to 14.9 volts with a charger current below
approximately 6.0 mm of electrolyte. If the each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more
battery case is translucent, the cell covers 25 amps. Using this method the battery
between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte
need not be removed to check the level. Top- should be useable within three hours, giving a
or deterioration of the internal plates.
up if necessary with distilled or de-ionised voltage reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a
13 In cases where a sealed-for-life
water; do not overfill, and mop up any spillage maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-up partially discharged battery and, as
at once (see “Weekly checks” illustration) . and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not mentioned, full charging can take consider-
possible. The condition of the battery type ably longer.
Electrolyte replenishment 24 If the battery is to be charged from a fully
can therefore only be tested using a battery
5 If the battery is in a fully charged state and condition indicator or a voltmeter, as with a discharged state (condition reading less than
one or more of the cells maintains a specific standard or low maintenance type battery. 12.2 volts) have it recharged by your Ford
gravity reading which is 0.040 or more lower 14 If testing the battery using a voltmeter, dealer or local automotive electrician as the
than the others, then it is likely that electrolyte connect it across the battery and compare the charge rate is higher and constant supervision
has been lost from the cell at some time. result with those given in the Specifications during charging is necessary.
5C•4 Starting and charging systems

Refitting
6 Alternator - testing
5 Refit by reversing the removal operations,
adjusting the drivebelt to the correct tension.
6 Note that it is important to ensure that the
2
mounting bolt washers and spacers are fitted
as shown (see illustration). If this is not done 1 The following in-vehicle alternator tests can
it is possible to excessively strain or even be made irrespective of which type of
break the alternator mounting flanges when alternator is fitted provided a 10 to 20 volt
the bolts are tightened. voltmeter, an ammeter (70 amp+) and a load
7 The mountings should be tightened evenly rheostat are available. Alternatively a
and progressively in the following order - proprietary multimeter can be used.
adjuster bolt, front mounting, rear mounting. 2 Prior to undertaking any of the following
4.6 Alternator mounting components tests, first check that the drivebelt tension is
correct and that the battery is well charged.
A
B
C
Large washer
Small washer (where fitted)
Mounting bracket
5 Alternator drivebelt -
removal, refitting and
tensioning
2 Wiring continuity check
3 Detach the battery earth lead, then
D Alternator mounting flanges disconnect the wiring multiplug connector
1 A conventional “V” drivebelt is used to drive
the alternator, power being transmitted from a from the alternator.
4 Reconnect the earth lead, switch the
4 Alternator - removal and
refitting 2 pulley on the front end of the crankshaft.
2 To remove a belt, slacken the alternator
mounting bolts and the bolts on the adjuster
link, push the alternator in towards the engine
ignition on and connect a voltmeter to a good
earth point. Now check the voltage reading on
each of the multi-plug terminals. A zero
and slip the belt from the pulleys (see reading indicates an open circuit in the wiring
Removal illustration). whilst a battery voltage reading proves the
1 Disconnect the battery and disconnect the 3 Fit the belt by slipping it over the pulley rims wiring to be in good condition (see
multi-plug or leads from the rear of the while the alternator is still loose on its illustration).
alternator. mountings. Never be tempted to remove or fit
2 Remove the head shield (where fitted). a belt by prising it over a pulley without Alternator output check
3 Release the mounting and adjuster link releasing the alternator. The pulley, and 5 Connect up the voltmeter, ammeter and
bolts, push the alternator in towards the possibly the alternator, will be distorted or rheostat, as shown (see illustration).
engine and slip the drivebelt from the pulley. damaged. 6 Switch the headlights on, also the heater
4 Unscrew and remove the mounting bolts 4 To retension the belt, pull the alternator blower motor and heated rear window (where
and adjuster link bolt and withdraw the away from the engine until the belt is fairly taut fitted). Start the engine and keep it running at
alternator from the engine. and nip up the adjuster strap bolt. Check that
3000 rpm whilst varying the resistance to
the total deflection of the belt is as specified
increase the current loading. The rated output
when tested on the longest belt run (see
should be achieved without the voltage
illustration). A little trial and error may be
required to obtain the correct tension. If the dropping below 13 volts.
belt is too slack, it will slip and soon become 7 Complete the check by disconnecting the
glazed or burnt and the alternator will not test instruments and switching off the ignition,
perform correctly, with consequent low headlights, blower motor and heated rear
battery charge. If the belt is too tight, the window.
bearings in the alternator will soon be
damaged.
Positive side voltage check
5 Do not lever against the body of the 8 Connect up the voltmeter as shown (see
alternator to tension the belt, or damage may illustration). Switch on the headlamps then
occur. start the engine and note the voltage drop.

5.2 Alternator adjusting strap bolt

(arrowed)

6.4 Alternator charging circuit continuity 6.5 Alternator output check

check
A Ammeter
5.4 Check drivebelt tension is correct A Wiring multi-plug V Voltmeter
B Voltmeter R Rheostat (30 amps rating resistor)
 Starting and charging systems 5C•5

6.8 Alternator charge circuit voltage drop 6.9 Alternator charge circuit voltage drop 6.10 Alternator regulator control voltage
check - positive side check - negative side check

Now run the engine at 3000 rpm. If the voltage and note the ammeter reading. This should fall Bosch
shown is above 0.5 volt it is indicative of a to between 3 and 5 amps at which point
2 Remove the regulator screws from the rear
high resistance in the positive side of the check the voltmeter which should read
cover and withdraw the regulator (see
charge circuit, and this will need to be located between 13.7 and 14.5 volts. Any readings
illustration). Check the length of each brush
and rectified. Switch the ignition and given which are not within these limits indicate
and renew if less than the specified minimum
headlights off to complete. a fault in the voltage control regulator and this
(see illustration).
must be renewed.
Negative side voltage check 3 To remove the brushes, unsolder the wiring
12 Switch the ignition off and detach the test
connectors and remove each brush with its
9 Proceed as described in paragraph 8 but equipment. Disconnect the battery earth lead
spring (see illustration).
connect the voltmeter as shown (see and reconnect the alternator multi-plug.
4 Refit by reversing the removal operations.
illustration). A voltmeter reading in excess of Reconnect the battery earth lead to complete.
0.25 volts is indicative of a high resistance Lucas type B
fault in the negative side wiring. 5 Remove the alternator rear cover.
Regulator control voltage check
10 Connect up the voltmeter and ammeter as
7 Alternator brushes and
regulator - renewal 2 6 Extract the brush box retaining screws and
withdraw the brush assemblies from the brush
box (see illustration).
shown (see illustration) then start the engine 7 If the length of the brushes is less than the
and check the voltage reading. 1 With the alternator removed from the engine, specified minimum, renew them. Refit by
11 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm clean the external surfaces free from dirt. reversing the removal operations.
8 To remove the regulator, disconnect the
wires from the unit and unscrew the retaining
screw.
9 Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but check that the small plastic spacer and
the connecting link are correctly located.
Lucas type D 5C
10 Proceed as described in paragraphs 5
and 6 (see illustration).
11 If the brushes are worn beyond the
minimum length specified, disconnect the
field connector and renew the brush
box/regulator complete as the brushes are not
7.2a Withdrawing the regulator/brush box 7.2b Compare the brush length with that
individually replaceable.
- Bosch alternator shown in the Specifications -
12 Refit in the reverse order to removal.
Bosch alternator

7.3 Brush box components -

Bosch alternator
7.6 Brush box retaining screws - 7.10 Brush box retaining screws -
A Brushes B Springs C Brush box Lucas type B alternator Lucas type D alternator
5C•6 Starting and charging systems

7.14a Brush box retaining screw - 7.14b Brush box and brushes (A) - 7.20 Heating alternator rear housing -
Motorola alternator Motorola alternator Mitsubishi alternator

Motorola Mitsubishi
13 Extract the two regulator securing screws,
disconnect the two regulator leads and
withdraw the unit.
17 Hold the alternator shaft against rotation
and unscrew the pulley unit. Take off the
spring washer, pulley, fan, large spacer and
8 Starter motor - removal and
refitting 2
14 Extract the brush box retaining screw and dust seal.
pull and tilt the brush box from its location, 18 Scribe a line along the length of the 1 Disconnect the battery.
taking care not to damage the brushes during alternator to facilitate reassembly of the 2 Working from under the vehicle, disconnect
the process (see illustrations). housings and stator. the main starter motor cable and the two
15 If the brushes are worn beyond the 19 Unscrew the tie-bolts and remove the wires from the starter solenoid (see
specified length, unsolder the brush drive end housing. illustration).
connections. 20 Separate the rotor from the rear end 3 Unbolt the starter motor and withdraw it
16 Fit the new brushes by reversing the housing and the stator. Before this can be from its location.
removal operations. done, the housing may have to be warmed 4 Refit the starter motor by reversing the
using a soldering iron or hot air gun (see removal procedure.
illustration).
21 Check the brushes for wear. If they have
worn below the minimum specified length,
unscrew the four bolts and remove the
rectifier and stator assembly from the rear
9 Starter motor - testing
2
housing.
22 Unsolder the stator connections from the 1 Check that the battery is fully charged.
rectifier pack terminals. Renew the brush box Solenoid check
(see illustration).
23 Resolder the new rectifier/brush pack 2 To test the solenoid, first disconnect the
leads and refit the pack and stator. battery negative lead and both leads from the
24 Hold the brushes in the retracted state solenoid. Check the continuity of the solenoid
with a piece of wire so that the brushes will windings by connecting a test lamp (12V with 2
pass over the slip rings (see illustration). to 3W bulb) between the starter spade terminal
25 Fit the rotor to the rear housing and then and the solenoid body (see illustration). The
withdraw the temporary wire. lamp should light up.
7.22 Alternator stator and brush box 3 Now make the test circuit as shown (see
26 Fit the drive end housing (scribed line
connections - Mitsubishi alternator illustration), using a higher wattage (18 to 21
aligned) and secure with the tie-bolts.
A Stator connections 27 Fit the dust seal, spacer, fan, pulley and W) bulb. Energise the solenoid by applying 12V
B Brush box-to-rectifier terminal spring washer. Tighten the pulley nut. between the spade terminal and the starter

9.2 Starter motor solenoid winding check

7.24 Wire (A) for holding alternator
brushes in retracted position - 8.2 Starter motor cable connections A Battery terminal C Spade terminal
Mitsubishi alternator (arrowed) B Feed terminal
 Starting and charging systems 5C•7

9.3 Starter motor solenoid continuity 10.2 Remove the commutator end housing 10.3a Remove the C-clip . . .
check cap securing screws
A Battery terminal C Spade terminal connections may be the cause, or loose or
B Feed terminal corroded terminals in the circuit.
feed terminal. The solenoid should be heard to 8 Connect a voltmeter between the battery
operate and the test bulb should light up, negative terminal and the starter motor main
indicating that the solenoid contacts have casing. With the positive LT lead disconnected
closed. from the coil, operate the starter for two or
three seconds. If the earth line is satisfactory,
On load voltage check the reading should be less than 0.5V. If it is
4 Connect a voltmeter between the battery 0.6V or more then there is a high resistance in
terminals. Disconnect the positive LT lead from the earth return side of the circuit. This may be
the ignition coil and operate the starter. The due to a loose or corroded connection either
voltmeter should indicate not less than 10.5V. at the battery or at the engine block.
5 Now connect the voltmeter between the
starter main terminal and the body of the 10.3b . . . and shims from the end of the
starter motor. Operate the starter, with the coil
LT lead still disconnected. The reading on the
voltmeter should be no more than 1.0V lower
10 Starter motor - brush renewal
2 armature shaft
6 If the brushes have worn to less than the
specified minimum, renew them as a set. To
than that indicated during the test described
in paragraph 4. If it is, check the battery-to- renew the brushes, cut the leads at their
starter motor wiring.
Bosch long frame and Cajavec midpoint and make a good soldered joint
1 With the starter motor removed from the when connecting the new brushes.
6 Connect the voltmeter between the battery
vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice 7 The commutator face should be clean and
positive terminal and the starter motor main
fitted with soft jaw protectors. free from burnt spots. Where necessary,
feed terminal. Operate the starter (with the LT
2 Remove the two screws securing the burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and
coil positive lead disconnected) for two or
wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth.
three seconds and observe the meter commutator end housing cap, then remove
8 On starter motors where the commutator
readings. A reading of 12V should drop to less the cap and rubber seal (see illustration).
end housing is secured by nuts and washers,
than 1.0V. If the reading is higher, a high 3 Wipe any grease from the armature shaft,
position the brush plate over the end of the
resistance is indicated (refer to paragraph 7). and remove the C-clip, or E-clip, as armature, with the cut-outs in the brush plate 5C
If the reading is lower, refer to paragraph 8. applicable, and shims from the end of the aligned with the end housing securing studs.
7 Connect the voltmeter between the two shaft (see illustrations). 9 On starter motors where the commutator
main stud terminals of the starter solenoid. 4 Unscrew the two nuts and remove the end housing is secured by screws, position
With the positive LT lead disconnected from washers, or remove the securing screws (as the brush plate over the end of the armature
the coil, operate the starter for two or three applicable), then lift off the commutator end with the cut-outs in the brush plate aligned
seconds and note the meter readings. Battery housing (see illustrations). with the loops in the field windings (see
voltage (12V) should be indicated first, 5 Carefully prise the thrust retaining springs illustration). The brush plate will be positively
followed by a voltage drop of less than 0.5V. If from their locations, then slide the brushes located when the commutator end housing
outside this tolerance, a faulty switch or from the brush plate. screws are fitted.

10.4a Remove the commutator end 10.4b Commutator end housing removed 10.9 Align the cut-outs in the brush plate
housing securing screws to expose brush plate (B) with the loops in the field windings (A)
5C•8 Starting and charging systems

Bosch short frame

14 To remove and refit the brush assembly,
proceed as for the Bosch long frame except
for the following (see illustration).
15 Release the brush holders complete with
brushes by pushing the brush holders
towards the commutator and unclipping them
from the brush plate. Withdraw the brush
plate (see illustration).
16 To renew the brushes, the leads must be
unsoldered from the terminals on the brush
plate, and the leads of the new brushes must
be soldered to the terminals.
17 To refit the brush assembly, position the
10.14 Commutator end housing brush plate over the end of the armature shaft, 10.15 Brush plate removal -
components - Bosch short frame motor then assemble the brush holders, brushes and Bosch short frame motor
springs, ensuring that the brush holder clips
A Securing screws D Shims are securely located. The brush plate will be A Field brushes C Brush plate
B Housing cap E C-clip B Terminal brushes D Brush holders
positively located when the commutator end
C Spanner F Armature shaft
housing screws are fitted.
10 Position the brushes in their respective 21 Extract the two commutator end plate
locations in the brush plate, and fit the brush Lucas securing screws, and carefully tap the end
retaining springs. Note: New star clips must be obtained for the plate to free it. Lift the end plate clear to allow
11 Guide the commutator end housing into armature shaft on reassembly. access to the two field brushes. Disconnect
position, at the same time sliding the rubber 18 With the starter motor removed from the the two field brushes from the brush box to
insulator into the cut-out in the housing. vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice allow complete removal of the commutator
Secure the commutator end housing with the fitted with soft jaw protectors. end plate. Take care not to damage the
nuts and washers or screws, as applicable.
19 Remove the plastic cap from the end of gasket as the end plate is removed.
12 Fit sufficient shims to the end of the
the armature shaft, then remove the star clip 22 Remove the nut, washer and insulator
armature shaft to eliminate endfloat when the
C-clip or E-clip, as applicable is fitted, then fit from the end of the shaft, using a chisel at an from the main terminal stud on the
the clip. angle of 45° to the shaft to distort the prongs commutator end plate, then push the stud
13 Fit the armature shaft bearing seal to the of the clip until it can be removed (see and the second insulator through the end
commutator end housing, then apply a little illustration). plate and unhook the brushes.
lithium-based grease to the end of the 20 Unscrew the two securing nuts and 23 To remove the brush box, drill out the
armature shaft and refit the end housing cap, remove the connector cable from the main rivets securing the brush box to the end plate,
securing with the two screws. feed terminal. then remove the brush box and gasket.
24 If the brushes have worn to less than the
specified minimum, renew them as a set. To
renew the brushes, cut the leads at their
midpoint and make a good soldered joint
when connecting the new brushes.
25 The commutator face should be clean and
free from burnt spots. Where necessary,
burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and
wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth.
26 Commence reassembly by positioning the
brush box gasket on the commutator end
plate, then position the brush box on the
gasket and rivet the brush box to the end
plate. Use a new gasket if necessary.
27 Fit the main terminal stud and insulator to
the commutator end plate, then secure the
stud with the remaining insulator, washer and
nut. Fit the two brushes which are attached to
the terminal stud into their respective
locations in the brush box.
28 Fit the two field brushes into their
locations in the brush box, then position the
commutator end plate on the yoke and fit the
10.19 Brush assembly - Lucas starter motor two securing screws.
29 Fit a new star clip to the end of the
1 Plastic cap 4 Commutator end plate 8 Solenoid connector link armature shaft, ensuring that the clip is
2 Star clip 5 Brush box 9 Pole shoe pressed home firmly to eliminate any endfloat
3 Commutator end plate 6 Yoke 10 Field coils in the armature (see illustration). Fit the
securing screw 7 Pole securing screw plastic cap over the end of the armature shaft.
 Starting and charging systems 5C•9

32 Remove the two screws securing the 39 Fit the brushes to their locations in the
commutator end housing cap and remove the brush plate, and retain with the springs.
cap (see illustration). 40 Fit the commutator end housing and
33 Remove the C-clip from the groove in the secure with the two bolts and washers.
armature shaft, and remove the spring. 41 Fit the spring and the C-clip to the end of
34 Unscrew the two bolts and washers, and the armature shaft, then smear the end of the
withdraw the commutator end housing. shaft with a little lithium-based grease, and
35 Withdraw the two field brushes from the refit the commutator end housing cap,
brush plate, then remove the brush plate. securing with the two screws.
36 If the brushes have worn to less than the 42 Reconnect the wiring to the solenoid
terminal and fit the washer and retaining nut.
specified minimum, renew them as a set. To
renew the brushes, cut the leads at their
midpoint and make a good soldered joint
10.29 Using a soft faced hammer and
when connecting the new brushes.
socket to fit a new star clip to the end of
the armature shaft - Lucas starter motor 37 The commutator face should be clean and
free from burnt spots. Where necessary,
burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and
Nippondenso wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth.
30 With the starter motor removed from the 38 Position the brush plate over the end of
vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice the armature, aligning the cut-outs in the
fitted with soft jaw protectors. brush plate with the loops in the field
31 Unscrew the retaining nut and washer and windings. The brush plate will be positively
disconnect the wiring from the terminal on the located when the commutator end housing
solenoid. bolts are fitted.

5C

10.32 Brush assembly - Nippondenso starter motor

1 Yoke 6 Brush spring 11 C-clip

2 Solenoid connecting link 7 Brush plate 12 Commutator end housing cap
3 Pole shoe 8 Commutator end housing 13 Commutator end housing securing
4 Rubber grommet 9 Bush bolt
5 Brush 10 Spring
5C•10 Notes
 9•1

Chapter 9
Braking system
Contents
Brake hydraulic pipes - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Handbrake cables - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Brake pressure control valve - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Brake warning lamps - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Front brake disc - examination, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Front caliper piston assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . .4 Rear brake drum - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Front disc pads - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Rear brake linings - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Specifications
System type ........................................... Hydraulic, dual-circuit, discs at front (ventilated on XR2), drums at
rear. Servo assistance. Mechanical handbrake to rear wheels only

Front (disc) brakes

Caliper type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single piston, sliding type
Disc diameter (outer):
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 mm
XR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 mm
Disc thickness (new):
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 mm
XR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 mm
Minimum allowable disc thickness:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.7 mm
XR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.5 mm
Allowable disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm
Minimum allowable pad thickness:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
XR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm

Rear (drum) brakes

Drum diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177.8 mm
XR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177.8 mm
Shoe width:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.0 mm
XR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.0 mm
Wheel cylinder diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.5 mm 9
XR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.0 mm
Minimum allowable friction material thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Disc caliper bracket to suspension unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 41
Caliper piston housing to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Servo mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Master cylinder-to-servo retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Large bracket to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Carrier plate to axle housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Pressure control valve bracket (to chassis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Hydraulic unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 10
Bleed valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
9•2 Braking system

1 General information and 2 Hydraulic system - bleeding

precautions 2
General information Note: Refer to Warning 1 in Section 1 before
The braking system is of four-wheeled starting work.
hydraulic type, with discs at the front and 1 When a maintenance operation has only
drums at the rear. The hydraulic system is of affected one circuit of the hydraulic system,
dual-circuit type, each circuit controls one then bleeding will normally only be required to
front brake and one rear brake linked that circuit (front and rear diagonally
diagonally. opposite). If the master cylinder or the
The front brake calipers are of single piston, pressure regulating valve have been
2.5 Bleed tube attached to bleed screw on
sliding piston housing type. The rear brakes disconnected and reconnected, then the
front brake
are of leading and trailing shoe design with a complete system must be bled.
self adjusting mechanism. To compensate for 2 One of three methods can be used to bleed Bleeding - with one-way valve
the greater lining of wear of the leading shoe, the system.
13 There are a number of one-man brake
its friction lining is thicker than that on the Bleeding - two-man method bleeding kits currently available from motor
trailing shoe. accessory shops. It is recommended that one
The master cylinder incorporates a 3 Gather together a clean jar and a length of
rubber or plastic bleed tubing which will fit the of these kits should be used whenever
reservoir cap which has a fluid level switch
bleed screw tightly. The help of an assistant possible as they greatly simplify the bleeding
connected to a warning lamp on the
will be required. operation and also reduce the risk of expelled
instrument panel. A vacuum servo is standard
4 Take great care not to spill onto the air or fluid being drawn back into the system.
on certain models. When fitted to RHD
paintwork as it will act as a paint stripper. If 14 Connect the outlet tube of the bleeder
versions, because of the location of the
servo/master cylinder on the left-hand side of any is spilled, wash it off at once with cold device to the bleed screw and then open the
the engine compartment, the brake pedal is water. screw half a turn. Depress the brake pedal to
operated through a transverse rod on the 5 Clean around the bleed screw on the front the floor and slowly release it. The one-way
engine compartment rear bulkhead. right-hand caliper and attach the bleed tube valve in the device will prevent expelled air
A brake pressure regulating control valve is to the screw (see illustration). from returning to the system at the completion
fitted into the hydraulic circuit to prevent rear 6 Check that the master cylinder reservoir is of each stroke. Repeat this operation until
wheel locking under conditions of heavy topped up and then destroy the vacuum in the clean hydraulic fluid, free from air bubbles,
braking. brake servo (where fitted) by giving several can be seen coming through the tube. Tighten
The floor-mounted handbrake control lever applications of the brake foot pedal. the bleed screw and remove the tube.
operates through cables to the rear wheels 7 Immerse the open end of the bleed tube in 15 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
only. the jar, which should contain 50 to 76 mm of bleed nipples in the order described in
hydraulic fluid. The jar should be positioned paragraph 11. Remember to keep the master
Precautions about 300 mm above the bleed nipple to cylinder reservoir full.
Warning 1: Hydraulic fluid is prevent any possibility of air entering the
poisonous; wash off system down the threads of the bleed screw Bleeding - with pressure
immediately and thoroughly in when it is slackened. bleeding kit
the case of skin contact and 8 Open the bleed screw half a turn and have 16 These are available from motor accessory
seek immediate medical advice if any fluid your assistant depress the brake pedal slowly shops and are usually operated by air
is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain to the floor and then quickly remove his foot pressure from the spare tyre.
types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable to allow the pedal to return unimpeded. 17 By connecting a pressurised container to
and may ignite when allowed into contact Tighten the bleed screw at the end of each the master cylinder fluid reservoir, bleeding is
with hot components; when servicing any downstroke to prevent expelled air and fluid then carried out by simply opening each bleed
hydraulic system it is safest to assume being drawn back into the system. screw in turn and allowing the fluid to run out,
that the fluid is inflammable and to take 9 Observe the submerged end of the tube in rather like turning on a tap, until no air bubbles
precautions against the risk of fire as the jar. When air bubbles cease to appear, are visible in the fluid being expelled.
though it is petrol that is being handled. fully tighten the bleed screw when the pedal is
Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint being held down by your assistant.
stripper and will attack plastics; if any is 10 Top-up the fluid reservoir. It must be kept
spilt, it should be washed off immediately topped up throughout the bleeding operations.
using copious quantities of fresh water. If the connecting holes in the master cylinder
Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbs are exposed at any time due to low fluid level,
moisture from the air) - old fluid may be then air will be drawn into the system and work
contaminated and unfit for further use. will have to start all over again.
When topping-up or renewing the fluid, 11 Repeat the operations on the left-hand
always use the recommended type and rear brake (see illustration), the left-hand
ensure that it comes from a freshly- front and the right-hand rear brake in that
opened sealed container. order (assuming that the whole system is
Warning 2: When working on the brake being bled).
components, take care not to disperse 12 On completion, remove the bleed tube.
brake dust into the air, or to inhale it, Discard the fluid which has been bled from
since it may contain asbestos which is the system unless it is required for bleed jar 2.11 Rear brake bleed screw and
injurious to health. purposes, never use it for filling the system. protective cap
 Braking system 9•3

18 Using this system, the large reserve of

fluid provides a safeguard against air being
drawn into the master cylinder during the
bleeding operations.
19 This method is particularly effective when
bleeding “difficult” systems or when bleeding
the entire system of routine fluid renewal.
All systems
20 On completion of bleeding, top-up the
fluid level to the MAX mark on the reservoir.
Check the feel of the brake pedal, which
should be firm and free from any
“sponginess” which would indicate air still 3.3 Prise free the retaining clip 3.4 Undo the caliper anchor bracket bolts
being present in the system.
6 Withdraw the inboard pad from the piston 16 Apply the footbrake hard several times to
3 Front disc pads - inspection,
removal and refitting 3 housing: the pad being secured to the piston
by means of a spider-type spring clip.
7 Withdraw the outer pad which is secured in
position by a piece of double-sided adhesive
position the pads against the disc and then
check and top-up the fluid in the master
cylinder reservoir.
17 Fit the roadwheel(s) and lower the vehicle.
Note: Refer to Warning 2 in Section 1 before tape. 18 Avoid heavy braking (if possible) for the
starting work. first hundred miles or so when new pads have
Refitting been fitted. This is to allow them to bed in and
Warning: Always support the 8 Clean away all residual dust or dirt, taking reach full efficiency.
vehicle on axle stands before care not to inhale the dust, as being
removing the roadwheel to asbestos based it is injurious to health.

Inspection
service brake assemblies. 9 Using a piece of flat wood, a tyre lever or
similar, push the piston squarely into its bore.
This is necessary in order to accommodate
4 Front caliper piston
assembly - removal, overhaul
and refitting
3
1 At the intervals specified in “Routine the new thicker pads when they are fitted.
Maintenance”, place a mirror between the 10 Depressing the piston will cause the fluid
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
roadwheel and the caliper and check the level in the master cylinder reservoir to rise, so
may be under considerable
thickness of the friction material of the disc anticipate this by syphoning out some fluid
pressure in a pipeline, take care
pads. If the material has worn down to 1.5 mm using an old hydrometer or poultry baster. not to allow hydraulic fluid to
or less, the pads must be renewed as an axle Take care not to drip hydraulic fluid onto the spray into the face or eyes when
set (four pads). paintwork, it acts as an effective paint loosening a connection.
stripper. Warning: Never refit old seals when
Removal 11 Commence reassembly by fitting the reassembling brake system components.
2 Slacken the roadwheel bolts, raise the front inboard pad into the piston housing. Make
of the vehicle, support with safety stands (see sure that the spring clip on the back of the Removal
“Jacking and vehicle support”) and remove pad fits into the piston (see illustration).
the roadwheel(s). 1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 8
12 Peel back the protective paper covering
in the previous Section.
3 Using a screwdriver as shown, prise free from the adhesive surface of the new
2 Disconnect the brake flexible hose from the
the retaining clip from the caliper (see outboard pad and locate it in the jaws of the
caliper. This can be carried out in one of two
illustration). caliper anchor bracket.
ways. Either disconnect the flexible hose from
4 Using a 7 mm Allen key, unscrew the bolts 13 Locate the caliper piston housing and the rigid hydraulic pipeline at the support
until they can be withdrawn from the caliper screw in the Allen bolts to the specified bracket by unscrewing the union, or, once the
anchor brackets (see illustration). torque. caliper is detached, hold the end fitting of the
5 Withdraw the piston housing and tie it up 14 Fit the retaining clip (see illustration). hose in an open-ended spanner and unscrew
with a length of wire to prevent strain on the 15 Repeat the operations on the opposite the caliper from the hose. Do not allow the
flexible hose (see illustration). brake. hose to distort an excessive amount.

3.5 Remove the caliper piston housing 3.11 Inboard pad assembly to piston 3.14 Retaining clip refitted
9•4 Braking system

4.3 Caliper and piston components

A Piston cover C Piston 4.4 Caliper piston removal method with compressed air. Note
B Seal D Housing wooden block fitted to avoid damaging the piston

Overhaul 4 Where run-out exceeds the specified figure,

3 Brush away all external dirt and pull off the
piston dust-excluding cover (see illustration).
4 Apply air pressure to the fluid inlet hole and
5 Front brake disc -
examination, removal and
refitting
3 renew the disc.
Removal
5 To remove a disc, unbolt the caliper,
eject the piston. Only low air pressure is withdraw it and tie it up to the suspension
needed for this, such as is produced by a Examination strut to avoid strain on the flexible hose.
foot-operated tyre pump (see illustration). 1 Raise the front of the vehicle and remove 6 Extract the small disc retaining screw and
5 Using a suitable hooked instrument, pick the roadwheel. pull the disc from the hub.
out the piston seal from the groove in the 2 Examine the surface of the disc. If it is
deeply grooved or scored or if any small
Refitting
cylinder bore. Do not scratch the surface of
cracks are evident, it must either be refinished 7 If a new disc is being installed, clean its
the bore. surfaces free from preservative before refitting
or renewed. Any refinishing must not reduce
6 Examine the surfaces of the piston and the the thickness of the disc to below the the caliper. It will also be necessary to
cylinder bore. If they are scored or show specified minimum. Light scoring on a brake depress the piston and inner brake pad a
evidence of metal-to-metal rubbing, then a disc is normal and should be ignored. small amount to accommodate the new
new piston housing will be required. Where 3 If disc distortion is suspected, the disc can be thicker disc when assembling.
the components are in good condition, checked for run-out using a dial gauge or feeler 8 Refit the disc, its retaining screw, the
discard the seal and obtain a repair kit. blades located between its face and a fixed caliper and the roadwheel and lower the
7 Wash the internal components in clean point as the disc is rotated (see illustration). vehicle to the floor.
brake hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit only,
nothing else.
8 Using the fingers, manipulate the new seal
into its groove in the cylinder bore.
9 Dip the piston in clean hydraulic fluid and
insert it squarely into its bore.
10 Connect the rubber dust excluder
between the piston and the piston housing
and then depress the piston fully.

Refitting
11 Refit the caliper by reversing the removal
operations.
12 When reconnecting the brake hose check
that it is fitted and secured so that it is not
distorted and will not interfere with any
adjacent steering or suspension components.
13 Bleed the hydraulic circuit, then refit the
roadwheel (s) and lower the vehicle.
14 If new pads have been fitted, heavy
braking should be avoided where possible for
the first hundred miles or so to allow them to 5.3 Checking the brake disc run-out using a dial gauge
bed in and reach full efficiency.
 Braking system 9•5

6.7a Remove the dust cap . . . 6.7b . . . the split pin and nut lock . . . 6.7c . . . the nut and thrustwasher

Removal Refitting
6 Rear brake linings -
inspection, removal and
refitting
3 5 Chock the front wheels. Slacken the
roadwheel bolts, raise the rear of the vehicle
and support it securely (see “Jacking and
15 Prior to reassembly, wipe the carrier
(back) plate clean and apply a light coating of
brake grease (Thermopaul 1) to the brake
vehicle support”). Remove the roadwheels. shoe contact points indicated (see
Inspection 6 Release the handbrake fully. illustration).
7 Tap off the hub dust cap, remove the split 16 Refit the large ratchet to the leading brake
1 Inspection of the shoe linings can be pin, nut lock, nut and thrustwasher (see shoe and the handbrake relay lever to the
carried out at the specified intervals by prising illustrations). trailing brake shoe.
out the small inspection plug from the brake 8 Pull the hub/drum towards you and then 17 Relocate the pull-off springs into position
backplate and observing the linings through push it back enough to be able to take the between the top end of the leading and
the hole using a mirror. outer bearing from the spindle. trailing shoe (as noted during removal).
2 A minimum thickness of friction material 9 Remove the hub/drum (see illustration) 18 Apply a small amount of brake grease to
must always be observed on the shoes; if it is and brush out any dust taking care not to the large ratchet and handbrake relay lever
worn down to this level, renew the shoes. inhale it. contact surfaces, then reconnect the
3 Do not attempt to re-line shoes yourself, 10 Remove the shoe hold-down spring from handbrake cable to the relay lever on the
but always obtain factory re-lined shoes. the leading shoe (see illustration). Do this by trailing shoe. Do not get any brake grease
4 Renew the shoes in an axle set (four shoes), gripping the dished washer with a pair of onto the brake linings.
even if only one is worn to the minimum. pliers, depressing it and turning it through 90°. 19 Refit the brake shoes into position, prising
Remove the washer, spring and the hold- open the leading edges to fit on the wheel
down post. cylinder at the top. Support in this position,
11 Note the locations of the leading and relocate the lower brake pull-off spring then
trailing shoes and also the upper and lower prise open the shoes at the bottom (trailing
return springs. Unhook the brake shoes from edges) and engage on the lower anchor plate
the lower anchor plate and detach the lower (see illustrations).
return spring. 20 Centralise the shoes, by tapping them
12 Detach the brake shoes from the wheel with the hand if necessary, then relocate the
cylinder, manoeuvre them away from the shoe hold-down pin, spring and dished
backplate and disengage the handbrake cable washer. Depress and twist the washers
from the relay arm (see illustration). through 90° to secure (see illustration).
13 The brake pull-off springs and adjuster 21 Before refitting the brake drum, check that
strut can then be disconnected at the top end the shoes are centralised, and release the
of the brake shoes. Again note orientation for automatic adjuster to fully contract the shoes.
6.9 Withdrawing the brake drum refitting.
14 To detach the large ratchet and
handbrake lever, remove the circlips.

6.10 Brake hold-down spring and retainer 6.12 Disconnecting the handbrake cable 6.15 Lightly lubricate the brake shoe
removal from the relay arm contact points (arrowed)
9•6 Braking system

6.19a Brake shoe assembly at the top 6.19b Brake shoe assembly at the bottom 6.20 Rear brake shoes fully assembled

22 Lubricate the inboard bearing and oil seal 26 Depress the brake pedal hard several 6 The pistons will probably shake out. If they
lips in the brake drum/hub and fit the times to actuate the self-adjusting mechanism do not, apply air pressure (from a tyre pump)
drum/hub onto the stub axle; taking care not and to bring the shoes up close to the drum. at the fluid inlet hole to eject them.
to damage the oil seal lips. 27 Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle 7 Examine the surfaces of the pistons and the
23 Fit the outboard bearing and thrustwasher to the floor. cylinder bores for scoring or metal-to-metal
(lubricated with suitable wheel bearing grease) rubbing areas. If evident, renew the complete
and screw the retaining nut into position. cylinder assembly.
24 Tightening the nut also sets the wheel
bearing adjustment and it is therefore
important that the correct procedure is
7 Rear wheel cylinder -
removal, overhaul and refitting 3 8 Where the components are in good
condition, discard the rubber seals and dust
excluders and obtain a repair kit.
followed. Refer to the information given in 9 Any cleaning should be done using
Chapter 10 on adjustment of the rear hub hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit - nothing
bearings.
Removal else.
25 With the wheel bearing adjustment 1 Remove the brake drum. 10 Reassemble by dipping the first piston in
completed and the nut retainer and split pin in 2 Disconnect the fluid pipeline from the wheel clean hydraulic fluid and inserting it into the
position, refit the dust cap. cylinder and cap the end of the pipe to cylinder. Fit a dust excluder to it.
prevent loss of fluid. A bleed screw rubber 11 From the opposite end of the cylinder
dust cap is useful for this. body, insert a new seal, spring, a second new
3 Unscrew the two bolts which hold the seal, the second piston and the remaining
wheel cylinder to the brake backplate (see dust excluder. Use only the fingers to
illustration). manipulate the seals into position and make
4 To avoid removing the brake shoes when quite sure that the lips of the seals are the
withdrawing the wheel cylinder, prise the correct way round.
shoes away from the cylinder (at the top) so
that the automatic adjuster holds them clear Refitting
of it. The cylinder can then be withdrawn (see 12 Refit the cylinder to the backplate and
illustration). secure with the two bolts and lockwashers.
13 Remove the plug and reconnect the
Overhaul hydraulic fluid pipe, taking care not to cross-
5 Clean away external dirt and then pull off thread the connection. Do not overtighten the
7.3 Rear wheel cylinder retaining bolts the dust-excluding covers from the cylinder union, but tighten it sufficiently to seal it. For
(arrowed) unit (see illustration). the torque setting refer to Specifications.

7.5 Wheel cylinder components

7.4 Rear wheel cylinder removal (brake shoes expanded in A Spring D Lockwasher G Piston
direction of arrows) B Bleed nipple E Piston housing H Dust cover
C Retaining bolts F Piston seal J Gaiter springs
 Braking system 9•7

14 Relocate the brake shoes against the 2 Disconnect the pipelines from the master
cylinder pistons by releasing the automatic cylinder by unscrewing the unions (see
adjuster. illustration).
15 Refit the brake drum and hub unit. Bleed 3 Disconnect the leads from the level warning
the hydraulic circuit on completion. switch in the reservoir cap. Remove the cap.
4 On models not fitted with a brake servo
unit, unclip and remove the trim panel
8 Rear brake drum - inspection
and renewal 2 beneath the facia on the driver’s side to give
access to the brake pedal. Extract the brake
pedal-to-pushrod clevis pin retaining clip and
withdraw the pin.
1 Whenever a brake drum is removed, brush 5 Unbolt and remove the master cylinder. On
out dust from it, taking care not to inhale it as non-servo models, remove the cylinder from
it contains asbestos which is injurious to health. the bulkhead whilst, on servo equipped 9.2 Master cylinder and hydraulic pipe
2 Examine the internal friction surface of the models, the master cylinder is removed from connections
drum. If deeply scored, or so worn that the the servo unit.
drum has become pocketed to the width of
Overhaul 10 Separate the primary piston from the fluid
the shoes, then the drums must be renewed.
housing and remove the fluid housing seal.
3 Regrinding is not recommended as the 1.4 litre and XR2 models from early 11 Tap the master cylinder on a block of
internal diameter will no longer be compatible 1986 wood to eject the secondary piston, then
with the shoe lining contact diameter.
6 From the beginning of 1986, all XR2 models remove the secondary piston assembly from
4 If renewing the brake drum it is also
and 1.4 litre models are fitted with a brake the master cylinder.
advisable to renew the hub bearings and inner
master cylinder of a new design. The new 12 Prise off the fluid housing retaining ring
oil seal rather than transferring the old. The
master cylinder is identifiable by its small size and remove the O-ring seal from the cylinder
seal will need renewal in any case.
and its smooth cylinder body appearance body.
(see illustration). 13 Extract the two reservoir seals from the
master cylinder ports.
9 Master cylinder - removal,
overhaul and refitting 3 7 The overhaul procedure is as follows:
8 With the master cylinder removed from the
car, drain the remaining brake fluid from the
reservoir, then remove the reservoir from the
14 Carefully remove the two secondary
piston return springs, the seal support ring,
seal protecting ring and the fluid seals from
cylinder body. each end of the piston.
Removal 9 Using a screwdriver, lever off the primary 15 Examine the cylinder bore for signs of
1 Syphon out as much fluid as possible from piston fluid housing (see illustration) and scoring or wear ridges. If evident renew the
the master cylinder reservoir using an old withdraw the fluid housing and primary piston master cylinder. If the cylinder appears
battery hydrometer or a poultry baster. Do not assembly from the master cylinder. Be satisfactory, obtain a repair kit which will
drip the fluid onto the paintwork or it will act prepared for some fluid spillage during this contain new secondary piston and cylinder
as an effective paint stripper. operation. body seals and a complete new primary
piston assembly.
16 Lubricate all the seals, the cylinder bore
and the pistons with clean brake fluid, then
reassemble as follows.
17 Refit the seals, support ring, protecting
ring and springs to the secondary piston, then
carefully insert the assembled piston into the
master cylinder bore.
18 Fit the two new reservoir seals to the
cylinder ports.
19 Fit a new seal to the fluid housing and fit
the primary piston to the housing.
20 Fit a new O-ring to the end of the cylinder
body, followed by the fluid housing retaining
ring.

9.6 Exploded view of master cylinder - XR2 and 1.4 litre models, early 1986 on

A Secondary piston seals F Retaining ring K Support ring

B Secondary piston G O-ring seal L Cap seal
C Protecting ring H Reservoir seals M Primary piston fluid
D Seal support ring J Primary piston housing 9.9 Levering off the primary piston fluid
E Return springs housing
9•8 Braking system

9.27 Master cylinder primary (A) and 9.28 Master cylinder secondary piston 10.1 Brake pressure control valve
secondary (B) piston assemblies stop pin
A Right-hand rear brake circuit valve
21 Carefully assemble the primary piston and 38 Depress the pushrod and locate the B Left-hand rear brake circuit valve
fluid housing to the master cylinder, pushing secondary piston lockpin.
the piston and housing in until the fluid 39 Locate the two rubber seals and push the 3 Clean the valves and connections
housing is flush with the cylinder mounting fluid reservoir into position. externally, then unscrew the hydraulic line
flange. 40 It is recommended that a small quantity of unions from the valves. Plug the disconnected
22 Refit the master cylinder reservoir. fluid is now poured into the reservoir and the lines to prevent excessive fluid leakage and
pushrod operated several times to prime it. the ingress of dirt.
All other models
4 Unscrew and remove the valve mounting
23 To overhaul the master cylinder fitted to Refitting bracket bolts and withdraw the valve
these models, first clean away external dirt 41 Refit the master cylinder by reversing the assembly (see illustration).
and then detach the fluid reservoir by tilting it removal operations. 5 Each valve is secured to the bracket by
sideways and gently pulling. Remove the two 42 Do not overtighten the hydraulic line unions means of a clip which can be prised free to
rubber seals. and take care that they are clean and not cross- release the valve from the bracket.
24 Secure the master cylinder carefully in a threaded when reconnecting. Refer to the spec-
vice fitted with jaw protectors. ifications for the torque wrench setting.
Refitting
25 Pull the dust excluder back from around 43 Bleed the complete hydraulic system on 6 Refitting is the reversal of the removal
the pushrod and using circlip pliers, extract completion of the work. procedure. Check that the hydraulic line
the circlip which is now exposed. connections are clean before reconnecting,
26 Remove the pushrod, dust excluder and and take care not to cross-thread the unions.
washer.
27 Withdraw the primary piston assembly,
which will already have been partially ejected
(see illustration).
10 Brake pressure control valve
- removal and refitting 3 7 Before lowering the vehicle at the rear,
bleed the hydraulic system.

28 Using a small diameter rod, insert it into

the end of the cylinder and push the
secondary piston in so that the locking pin
Removal
1 The brake pressure control valve assembly
11 Brake hydraulic pipes -
removal and refitting 2
can be extracted (see illustration). is located towards the rear of the vehicle and
29 Tap the end of the master cylinder on a mounted to the chassis on the right-hand
block of wood and eject the secondary piston side. The assembly consists of a pair of
Removal
assembly. control valve cylinders mounted to a common 1 Always disconnect a flexible hose by
30 Examine the pistons and cylinder bore bracket. One valve controls the pressure to prising out the spring anchor clip from the
surfaces for scoring or signs of metal-to-metal the right-hand rear brake, the other to the left- support bracket (see illustration) and then,
rubbing. If evident, renew the cylinder hand rear brake (see illustration). using two close-fitting spanners, disconnect
complete. 2 The valves are removed as a pair. First raise the rigid line from the flexible hose.
31 The primary piston unit cannot be and support the vehicle at the rear using 2 Once disconnected from the rigid pipe, the
dismantled and must be renewed as a unit. safety stands (see “Jacking and vehicle flexible hose may be unscrewed from the
32 Prise free and remove the secondary support”). Chock the front wheels. caliper or wheel cylinder.
piston seals, noting their orientation. Once
removed the seals must be discarded and a
repair kit obtained for their renewal.
33 Cleaning of components should be done
in brake hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit
only - nothing else.
34 Using the new seals from the repair kit,
assemble the secondary piston, making sure
that the seal lips are the correct way round, as
noted during dismantling.
35 Dip the piston assemblies in clean
hydraulic fluid and fit them to the cylinder bore.
36 Fit the pushrod complete with new dust
excluder and secure with a new circlip.
37 Engage the dust excluder with the master 10.4 Brake pressure control valve 11.1 Flexible-to-rigid brake pipe
cylinder. securing bolts (arrowed) connection; spring anchor clip (arrowed)
 Braking system 9•9

Refitting
3 When reconnecting pipeline or hose
fittings, remember that all union threads are to
metric sizes. No copper washers are used at
unions and the seal is made at the swaged
end of the pipe, so do not try to wind a union
in if it is tight yet still stands proud of the
surface into which it is screwed.
4 A flexible hose must never be installed
twisted, but a slight “set” is permissible to give
it clearance from an adjacent component. Do
this by turning the hose slightly before
inserting the bracket spring clip.
12.1 Vacuum servo pipe removal 12.4 Clevis pin removal using long-nosed
pliers
12 Vacuum servo unit - removal
and refitting 3 5 The servo unit cannot be repaired and if
defective must therefore be renewed. 14 Handbrake cables - renewal
3
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
Removal
procedure. Bleed the hydraulic system.
1 Using a suitable screwdriver as a lever, 7 On completion, check the operation of the Pre September 1985 models
prise free the vacuum servo pipe connector brake stop-light switch and, if necessary, 1 Chock the front wheels, then fully release
from the servo unit (see illustration). the handbrake.
readjust.
2 Remove the master cylinder. 2 Raise and support the vehicle at the rear
3 Unscrew and remove the four servo unit-to- with safety stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
13 Handbrake - adjustment
2
mounting bracket retaining nuts. support”).
4 Extract the spring clip from the connecting
rod clevis pin using a pair of long-nosed pliers Primary cable
(see illustration). Withdraw the clevis pin and 3 Extract the spring clip and clevis pin and
remove the servo unit from the mounting Refer to Chapter 1, Section 19. disconnect the primary cable from the
bracket. equaliser (see illustration).

14.3 Handbrake system layout

A Cable guide C Carrier (back) plate plunger E Equaliser

B Adjuster D Primary cable F Secondary cables
9•10 Braking system

14.6 Handbrake cable-to-brake backplate 14.8 Secondary cable location bracket 14.9 Lubricate each side of the cable
securing clip location clip (arrowed)

14.11 Handbrake cable adjuster locking pin removal 15.4 Handbrake lever mounting bolts (A) and warning light switch
screws (B)

4 Working inside the vehicle, disconnect the Models from September 1985
cable from the handbrake control lever, again
by removal of clip and pin. Drift out the cable
guide to the rear and withdraw the cable
10 Proceed as above, noting that since
September 1985 a locking pin has been fitted
to the cable adjuster abutment bracket to lock
15 Handbrake lever - removal
and refitting 3
through the floorpan. the adjuster sleeve and locknut together.
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust the 11 Should it be necessary to renew the
handbrake if necessary.
Removal
cable, the locking pin must be removed by
pulling it out using pliers (see illustration). 1 Chock the front wheels, raise and support
Secondary cable the vehicle at the rear using safety stands (see
After adjustment a new nylon locking pin must
6 Remove the rear roadwheel each side then be used and can be fitted by carefully tapping “Jacking and vehicle support”). Release the
remove the brake drums. Disengage the it into place. handbrake.
handbrake secondary cable from the rear 2 Working underneath the vehicle, extract the
brake assembly and pass through the brake lever-to-equaliser cable retaining clip, remove
backplate, having released the retaining clip the pin and separate the cable from the
(see illustration). equaliser.
7 Extract the circlip and remove the clevis pin 3 Remove the front seats. It may also be
from the cable equaliser unit. necessary to remove the carpet.
8 Disengage and remove the secondary 4 Detach the handbrake warning switch (see
illustration).
cable from the body bracket clips and unhook
5 Disconnect the cable from the handbrake
it from the body supports. The cable can then
lever by extracting the clip and pin (see
be removed from under the vehicle (see
illustration).
illustration). 6 Unscrew the lever securing bolts and
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Grease remove the lever.
the cable groove in the equaliser and also
each side of the outer cable location clip (see Refitting
illustration). Adjust the handbrake on 15.5 Primary cable-to-handbrake lever 7 Refit in the reverse order of removal. On
completion. clevis pin and clip (arrowed) completion, check the handbrake adjustment.
 Braking system 9•11

16.6 Depress the brake warning light switch plunger to test 16.7 Brake stop-light switch removal

carpets. The switch is secured to the lever by switch then turn the switch anti-clockwise to
16 Brake warning lamps -
renewal 2 means of two retaining screws.
5 Whenever the switch is fully removed and
refitted, check the operation of the switch and
remove it (see illustration).
8 To refit the switch, fit it into its lockring
aperture, pressing inwards so that the switch
barrel is in contact with the pedal,
warning lamp with the ignition on prior to
1 All models are fitted with a low fluid level refitting the floor carpet and seats. compensating for any free play that might
warning switch in the master cylinder reservoir 6 The low fluid level warning lamp switch exist in the pedal pivot. Twist the switch
cap and a brake pedal stop-lamp switch. operation can be checked by depressing the clockwise to lock it in this position then
2 Some models are also fitted with a plunger in the top of the switch (see reattach the wiring connector.
handbrake ON warning lamp switch. illustration). 9 On completion check the switch for
3 Warning indicator lamps are mounted on 7 The stop-lamp switch is activated by brake satisfactory operation.
the instrument panel. pedal movement. To remove the switch,
4 Access to the handbrake switch is obtained unclip and remove the facia underpanel,
after removal of the front seats and floor disconnect the multi-plug connector to the

9
9•12 Notes
 10•1

Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - inspection, removal and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Rear coil spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Front suspension lower arm - removal, bush replacement and Rear hub bearings - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . .12
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Rear shock absorber - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Front suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . .11 Steering angles and wheel alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Front tie-bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Steering gear bellows - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Panhard rod - removal, bush renewal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Rear anti-roll bar - removal, bush renewal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .15 Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Rear axle and suspension unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Tie-rod end balljoint - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Rear axle unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Specifications
Suspension type
Front suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent, MacPherson strut. Double-acting shock absorbers
incorporated in the struts
Rear suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent with coil spring and double-acting shock absorbers. Anti-
roll bar on certain models

Steering
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack and pinion with universally-jointed shaft and deformable column
Lubricant type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . To Ford specification SAM-1C-9106-A

Front wheel alignment

Toe setting (service check):
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Parallel to 6.0 mm toe-out
Toe-setting (setting if outside service check tolerance):
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 4.0 mm toe-out

Wheels
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed steel or alloy
Size:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13x4.50J
Sport and Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13x5J
XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13x6J
Tyre sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Front suspension 10
Hub retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 170
Lower arm inboard pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Lower arm balljoint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Balljoint lower arm/tie-bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63
Strut to spindle carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 69
Tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Tie-bar mounting bracket to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Top mounting locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Top mounting thrust bearing nut (plain) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
10•2 Suspension and steering

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft

Rear suspension
Lower arm-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Lower arm-to-axle bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Shock absorber bottom mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Shock absorber top mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Panhard rod-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Panhard rod-to-axle bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Brake backplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Anti-roll bar-to-body nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Anti-roll bar-to-body screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Steering
Steering gear unit to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 50 30 to 37
Steering shaft to pinion coupling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 56 33 to 41
Steering wheel to steering shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 to 34 20 to 25
Steering column tube mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Tie-rod end locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 to 68 42 to 50
Tie-rod end to steering arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 30 18 to 22
Tie-rod inner balljoint (staked) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 to 90 50 to 66
Tie-rod inner balljoint to rack (Loctite 270) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 to 88 53 to 65
Pinion cover nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 to 70 44 to 52
Slipper plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 3 to 4
Wheels
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

Precautions
1 General information and
precautions
When the front wheels are raised, avoid
turning the steering wheel rapidly from lock-to-
lock. This could cause hydraulic pressure build-
3 Steering column - removal
and refitting 3
up, with consequent damage to the bellows.
General information Removal
The front suspension is of independent type
with MacPherson struts. The strut assembly
on each side is controlled transversely by a
fabricated lower (track control) arm whilst the
2 Steering wheel - removal and
refitting 1 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead then
remove the steering wheel. Also remove the
indicator cam from the steering shaft.
2 Unscrew and recover the steering column
fore and aft control is by means of a tie-bar shroud retaining screws, then detach and
connected between the lower arm and a Removal remove the upper and lower column shrouds.
mounting bracket on the chassis. The right- 3 Extract the retaining clip from the bonnet
1 According to model, either pull off the
hand tie-bar on the XR2 model differs from release pivot pin, remove the lever and
steering wheel trim or prise out the insert
that fitted to other models in the range. disconnect the cable.
which carries the Ford motif at the centre of
The rear suspension is of five-point link type the steering wheel (see illustration). Insert 4 Undo the four retaining screws and remove
and consists of the axle beam, coil springs, the ignition key and turn it to position 1. the column multifunction switches. Detach the
double-acting telescopic shock absorbers, a 2 Prevent the steering wheel from turning ignition switch wiring connector.
Panhard rod and trailing arms. Certain models with the front roadwheels in the straight- 5 Unclip and withdraw the facia lever
are also fitted with an anti-roll bar. ahead attitude. Unscrew the steering wheel insulating panel on the driver’s side.
The steering is of rack and pinion type, with retaining nut using a socket with extension. 6 Unscrew and remove the upper and lower
a safety steering column which incorporates a 3 Scribe an alignment mark between the column mounting clamp retaining nuts and
jointed lower shaft and a convoluted column steering wheel and shaft end face to ensure washers (see illustration), then slide free and
tube. correct realignment when refitting. withdraw the column tube and tolerance ring.
4 Remove the steering wheel from the shaft.
No effort should be required to remove the
steering wheel as it is located on a hexagonal
section shaft which does not cause the
binding associated with splined shafts.
5 Note the steering shaft direction indicator
cam which has its peg uppermost.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
that the roadwheels are still in the straight-
ahead position and locate the steering wheel
so that the alignment index marks made on
the steering wheel and shaft end face
correspond. Refit and tighten the steering
2.1 Removing the steering wheel trim to wheel retaining nut to the specified torque 3.6 Steering column upper (A) and lower
reveal the steering wheel retaining nut setting. Refit the steering wheel trim. (B) mountings
 Suspension and steering 10•3

3.8 Pinion coupling clamp bolt (arrowed) 3.9a Steering column upper-to-lower shaft 3.9b Steering column lower shaft coupling
coupling (B) and bushes (A)
7 Use a suitable screwdriver or implement to 15 The upper shroud is now removed again 3 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
hook out the upper thrust bearing. to allow the ignition switch multi-plug to be securely. Remove the front roadwheels. Turn
8 To remove the steering column shafts, reconnected and the steering column each hub slowly to full lock to gain access to
unscrew and remove the lower shaft-to-pinion switches to be relocated and secured with the each tie-rod balljoint.
coupling clamp bolt (see illustration) then four screws. 4 Prior to undoing a tie-rod end locknut,
withdraw the upper and lower shafts as a unit. 16 Secure the wiring looms of the switches make a relative alignment mark across the
If any difficulty is experienced in separating to the column with a plastic strap clip. faces of the tie-rod and balljoint to ensure
the lower shaft from the pinion gear, prise the 17 Locate and secure the bonnet release correct alignment on refitting (see
coupling open slightly with a screwdriver. catch and cable. illustration). Release the tie-rod end locknut,
9 The upper and lower shafts can be 18 Locate and secure the upper and lower but only unscrew it one quarter of a turn.
separated and the bushes renewed if column shrouds. 5 Extract the split pin and remove the nut
necessary (see illustrations). 19 Relocate the bearing tolerance ring then from the balljoint taper pin.
refit the direction indicator arm. 6 Using a suitable balljoint extractor, separate
Refitting 20 Refit the steering wheel. the balljoint taper pin from the eye of the
10 Refit the shafts reversing the removal 21 Recheck that the upper and lower steering arm (see illustration).
procedure and check that the bulkhead seal is steering shaft coupling pegs and bushes are 7 Unscrew the balljoint from the end of the
not disturbed or distorted when the shaft is still fully engaged, then tighten the lower tie-rod.
refitted. shaft-to-pinion clamp bolt to the specified 8 Release the clips from both ends of the
11 Reconnect the lower shaft to the steering torque wrench setting. damaged bellows and slide them from the
gear pinion shaft and loosely engage the 22 Refit the facia lower insulating panel. rack and the tie-rod.
clamp for the moment. 23 To complete, check that the steering 9 Turn the steering wheel gently to expel as
12 The steering column tube assembly can action is satisfactory, reconnect the battery much lubricant as possible from the rack
now be fitted. earth lead and check that the column multi- housing. It is recommended that the bellows
13 With the upper thrust bearing located in function switches, ignition switch and steering on the opposite side be released by detaching
the column, fit the column tube over the shaft,
lock are operational. their inboard clip, turning the bellows back
align the mounting clamp holes with the fixing
and clearing the lubricant as it is also ejected
studs then engage and fit the washers and
at this end of the rack housing.
retaining nuts, but do not fully tighten them
yet. Semi-tighten the nuts so that the column
tube is supported as far up as possible.
14 Locate the upper column shroud and then
4 Steering gear bellows -
renewal 3 10 Smear the narrow neck of the new bellows
with the specified grease and slide them over
the tie-rod into position on the rack housing.
adjust the column so that the shroud and 11 If new bellows are being fitted to the
instrument panel (facia) are not in contact 1 At the first indication of a split or grease pinion end of the rack, leave both ends of the
(see illustration) and tighten the column leakage from the bellows, renew them. bellows unclamped at this stage.
retaining nuts to the specified torque wrench 2 The tie-rod diameter will be 11.8 mm or 12 If the bellows are being fitted to the rack
setting. When tightened, check that the upper 13.3 mm. It is important to identify which type support bush end of the rack housing, clamp
and lower steering shaft coupling pins and is fitted in order that the correct bellows only the inner end of the bellows and leave the
bushes are still fully engaged. replacement kit is obtained. outer end unfastened.

10

3.14 Set column to give small clearance at 4.4 Mark relative positions of balljoint and 4.6 Detaching the balljoint with a
(X) between the shrouds and facia panel tie rod (arrowed) separator tool
10•4 Suspension and steering

4.15a Bellows must engage in rod groove 4.15b Discard original wire type bellows 6.6 Steering gear unit securing bolts
(inset) retaining clip (inset) and use new worm (arrowed)
drive type
13 Screw on the tie-rod end until the locknut 12 Tighten the coupling pinch-bolt to the
requires only 1/4 turn to lock it.
14 Connect the tie-rod end balljoint to the
steering arm, tighten the nut to the specified
6 Steering gear - removal and
refitting 3 specified torque. Lower the vehicle to the
floor.
13 If the tie-rod ends were disturbed or if a
torque and insert a new split pin. new assembly was installed, check and adjust
15 Lubricate the support bush end of the the front wheel alignment.
rack by applying 50 cc of the specified Removal
lubricant into the bellows at that end. Check 1 Set the front roadwheels in the straight-
7 Steering angles and wheel
that the bellows are correctly engaged in the
groove at the tie-rod end, then secure using a
new clip (see illustrations).
ahead position.
2 Raise the front of the vehicle and fit safety
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
alignment 3
16 Repeat this procedure with the pinion end 3 Working under the bonnet, remove the
of the rack but apply 70 cc of lubricant. pinch-bolt from the coupling at the base of 1 When reading this Section, reference
17 Tighten the tie-rod end locknut against the steering column shaft. should also be made in respect of front and
the tie-rod end and check that the alignment 4 Extract the split pins from the tie-rod rear suspension arrangement.
marks correspond. Refit the roadwheels and balljoint taper pin nuts, unscrew the nuts and 2 Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
lower the vehicle. remove them. to good steering and for even tyre wear.
18 If the position of the tie-rod locknut was 5 Separate the balljoints from the steering Before considering the steering angles, check
not altered from its original setting, the front arms using a suitable tool. that the tyres are correctly inflated, that the
wheel alignment (toe) will not have altered, but 6 Flatten the locktabs on the steering gear roadwheels are not buckled, the hub bearings
it is recommended that the alignment be securing bolts and unscrew and remove the are not worn or incorrectly adjusted and that
checked at the earliest opportunity. bolts (see illustration). Withdraw the steering the steering linkage is in good order.
gear downwards to separate the coupling 3 Wheel alignment consists of four factors:
from the steering shaft and then take it out Camber is the angle at which the
5 Tie-rod end balljoint -
renewal 3 from under the front wing.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If a new
roadwheels are set from the vertical when
viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle.
Positive camber is the angle (in degrees) that
the wheels are tilted outwards at the top, from
1 If, as the result of inspection, the tie-rod rack and pinion assembly is being installed, the vertical.
end balljoints are found to be worn, remove the tie-rod ends will have to be removed from Castor is the angle between the steering
them as described in the preceding Section. the original unit and screw onto the new tie- axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
2 When the balljoint nuts are unscrewed, it is rods to approximately the same setting. If a side of the vehicle. Positive castor is indicated
sometimes found that the balljoint taper pin note was not made of the position of the when the steering axis is inclined towards the
original tie-rod ends on their rods, inspection
turns in the eye of the steering arm to prevent rear of the vehicle at its upper end.
of the threads will probably indicate their
the nut from unscrewing. Should this happen, Steering axis inclination is the angle,
original location. In any event it is important
apply pressure to the top of the balljoint using when viewed from the front or rear of the
that the new tie-rod ends are screwed on an
a length of wood as a lever to seat the taper vehicle, between the vertical and an imaginary
equal amount at this stage.
pin while the nut is unscrewed. When this line drawn between the upper and lower
8 Make sure that the steering gear is centred.
condition is met, a balljoint extractor is Do this by turning the pinion shaft to full lock suspension swivel balljoints or upper and
unlikely to be required to free the taper pin in one direction and then count the number of lower strut mountings.
from the steering arm. turns required to rotate it to the opposite lock. Toe is the amount by which the distance
3 With the tie-rod end removed, wire brush Now turn the splined pinion shaft through half between the front inside edges of the
the threads of the tie-rod and apply grease to the number of turns just counted. roadwheel differs from that between the rear
them. 9 Check that the roadwheels and the steering inside edges. If the distance at the front is less
4 Screw on the new tie-rod to take up a wheel are in the straight-ahead attitude, offer than that at the rear, the wheels are said to
position similar to the original. Due to up the steering gear and connect the shaft toe-in. If the distance at the front inside edges
manufacturing differences, the fitting of a new coupling without inserting the pinch-bolt. is greater than that at the rear, the wheels toe-
component will almost certainly mean that the 10 Bolt up the gear housing and lock the out.
front wheel alignment will require some bolts with their lockplate tabs. 4 Due to the need for precision gauges to
adjustment. 11 Reconnect the tie-rod ends to the steering measure the small angles of the steering and
5 Connect the balljoint to the steering arm. arms. Use new split pins. suspension settings, it is preferable to leave
 Suspension and steering 10•5

this work to your dealer. Camber and castor need to remove the steering wheel and refit it 3 Grip the roadwheel tyre at the top and
angles are set in production and are not in the correct alignment position. bottom and use a rocking motion to check for
adjustable. If these angles are ever checked 14 To correct further misalignment between play of the bearings.
and found to be outside specification then the position of the steering wheel and the 4 A small amount of endfloat may be
either the suspension components are roadwheels when in the straight-ahead detected when checking for play (even after
damaged or distorted, or wear has occurred position, you will need to raise and support fitting new bearings) but when the wheel is
in the bushes at the attachment point. the front of the vehicle on safety stands (see spun there should be no sign of roughness,
5 If you wish to check front wheel alignment “Jacking and vehicle support”). binding or vibration caused by the bearings.
yourself, first make sure that the lengths of 15 Mark the relative positions of the tie-rods 5 If the hub bearings are suspect or obviously
both tie-rods are equal when the steering is in to joints, loosen the locknut and the outer worn beyond an acceptable level they must
the straight-ahead position. This can be steering bellows clip, then rotate each tie-rod be renewed.
measured reasonably accurately by counting an equivalent amount in the same direction to
the number of exposed threads on the tie-rod correct the steering wheel misalignment. Note Removal
adjacent to the balljoint assembly. that 30° of tie-rod rotation equals 1° of 6 Before removing the roadwheel(s) the
6 Adjust if necessary by releasing the locknut steering wheel angular correction. Rotate the vehicle must be suitably supported on safety
from the balljoint assembly and the clamp at rods clockwise (viewed from the left-hand stands at the front (see “Jacking and vehicle
the small end of the bellows. side of the car) to correct a clockwise support”).
7 Obtain a tracking gauge. These are misalignment of the steering wheel. Rotate 7 Get an assistant to apply the footbrake then
available in various forms from accessory the tie-rods anti-clockwise to correct an anti- undo the roadwheel bolts and remove the
stores, or one can be fabricated from a length clockwise misalignment (also viewed from the wheel.
of steel tubing, suitably cranked to clear the left-hand side of the vehicle). 8 Refit two of the roadwheel bolts as a means
sump and bellhousing, and having a set screw 16 After the steering wheel and tie-rod of anchorage for the disc when the hub nut is
and locknut at one end. adjustment is complete, recheck the wheel unscrewed.
8 With the gauge, measure the distance alignment (paragraphs 5 to 9 inclusive) and 9 Have an assistant apply the footbrake and
between the two inner rims of the roadwheels retighten the locknuts without altering the then unscrew the staked hub nut and remove
(at hub height) at the rear of the wheel. Push positional settings of the tie-rods. Hold the it, together with the plain washer. This nut is
the vehicle forward to rotate the wheel balljoint assembly at the mid-point of its arc of very tight so, if you are unsure of the raised
through 180° (half a turn) and measure the travel (flats are provided on it for a spanner) car’s stability, refit the roadwheel(s) and undo
distance between the wheel inner rims, again while the locknuts are tightened. the hub nut with the car on the ground.
at hub height, at the front of the wheel. This 17 Finally, tighten the bellows clamps.
10 Remove the wheel and/or wheel bolts.
last measurement should differ from the first 18 Rear wheel alignment is set in production
11 Unbolt the brake caliper and tie it up to
one by the specified toe-in/toe-out (see Spec- and is not adjustable, but when dismantling
the suspension strut to avoid strain on the
ifications). any part, it is essential that all washers are
flexible hose (see illustration).
9 Where the toe setting is found to be refitted in their original positions as they
12 Withdraw the hub/disc. If it is tight, use a
incorrect, release the tie-rod balljoint locknuts control the wheel setting for the life of the
vehicle. two-legged puller.
and turn the tie-rods by an equal amount.
13 Extract the split pin and unscrew the
Only turn them through a quarter turn at a
castellated nut from the tie-rod end balljoint.
time before rechecking the alignment. Do not
grip the threaded part of the tie-rod during
adjustment and make sure that the bellows
outboard clip is released, otherwise the
8 Front hub bearings -
inspection, removal and
renewal
4 14 Using a suitable balljoint splitter, separate
the balljoint from the steering arm (see
illustration).
bellows will twist as the tie-rod is rotated. 15 Unscrew and remove the special Torx
When each tie-rod is viewed from the rack pinch-bolt which holds the lower arm balljoint
Inspection to the stub axle carrier (see illustration).
housing, turning the rods clockwise will
increase the toe-out. Always turn the tie-rods 1 All models are fitted with non-adjustable 16 Support the driveshaft on a block of wood
in the same direction when viewed from the front hub bearings, the bearing play being set and remove the bolts which hold the stub axle
centre of the vehicle, otherwise they will when the hub nut is tightened to its specified carrier to the base of the suspension strut.
become unequal in length. This would cause setting during initial assembly or overhaul. 17 Using a suitable lever, separate the carrier
the steering wheel spoke alignment to alter 2 To check the bearings for excessive wear, from the strut by prising open the clamp jaws.
and also cause problems on turning with tyre raise and support the vehicle at the front end 18 Support the driveshaft at the outboard CV
scrubbing. so that the roadwheels are clear of the joint and pull the stub axle carrier clear of the
10 After adjustment of the tie-rods check that ground. driveshaft.
the exposed thread portion of each is equal
and does not exceed 28 mm. Also check that
the steering wheel position is centralised, with
the front roadwheels in the straight-ahead
position.
11 If the steering wheel angular position is 10
incorrect, but the tracking alignment of the
front roadwheels is correct, proceed as
follows:
12 Where the steering wheel misalignment is
less than 30° then the wheel can be left in
position.
13 Where the steering wheel is misaligned by
more than 60°, turn the steering onto full lock
then move it back to centralise it in the centre 8.11 Brake caliper retaining bolts 8.14 Separate the balljoint
point of the lock-to-lock travel. You will now (arrowed)
10•6 Suspension and steering

8.15 Lower arm balljoint and stub axle carrier Torx bolt (arrowed) 8.23 Bearing track removal from stub axle carrier

19 Remove the stub axle carrier and grip it in 29 Fit the dust shield by tapping it into 36 Grease the threads at the end of the
a vice fitted with jaw protectors. position using a block of wood. driveshaft, fit the plain washer and screw on a
20 Using pliers, pull out the dust shield from 30 Smear the driveshaft splines with grease, new nut, finger tight.
the groove in the stub axle carrier. then install the carrier over the end of the 37 Fit the brake caliper, tightening the
21 Prise out the inner and outer oil seals. driveshaft. mounting bolts to the specified torque (see
31 Connect the carrier to the suspension Chapter 9 Specifications).
22 Lift out the bearings.
strut and tighten the bolt to the specified 38 Screw in two wheel bolts and have an
23 With a suitable drift, drive out the bearing torque.
tracks (see illustration). assistant apply the footbrake.
32 Reconnect the suspension lower arm 39 Tighten the hub nut to the specified
24 Clean away all the old grease from the balljoint to the carrier and secure by passing
torque. This is a high torque and if a suitably
stub axle carrier. the pinch-bolt through the groove in the
calibrated torque wrench is not available, use
balljoint stud (see illustration).
Renewal 33 Reconnect the tie-bar to the steering arm,
a socket with a knuckle bar 457.2 mm in
tighten the castellated nut and secure with a length. Applying maximum leverage to the
25 Drive the new bearing tracks squarely into
new split pin. knuckle bar should tighten the nut to very
their seats using a piece of suitable diameter
34 Install the hub/disc and push it on to the close to its specified torque. For safety it is
tubing or press tool (see illustration).
driveshaft as far as it will go using hand probably better to leave the final tightening of
26 Liberally pack grease into the bearings, the hub nut until the car is on its wheels.
pressure.
making sure to work plenty into the spaces 40 Stake the nut into the driveshaft groove, if
35 In the absence of the special hub installer
between the rollers. applicable (see illustration).
tool (14-022), draw the hub/disc onto the
27 Install the bearing to one side of the driveshaft by using a two or three-legged 41 Remove the temporary roadwheel bolts.
carrier, then fill the lips of the new oil seal with puller with legs engaged behind the carrier. 42 Fit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle to
grease and tap it squarely into position. On no account try to knock the hub/disc into the floor. Fully tighten the roadwheel bolts and
28 Fit the bearing and its seal to the opposite position using hammer blows or the CV joint hub nut (if applicable). If necessary stake the
side in a similar way. will be damaged. hub nut.

8.25 Bearing track installation 8.32 Balljoint pinch-bolt location

A Press tool B Bearing track C Stub axle carrier A Balljoint B Carrier C Pinch-bolt D Balljoint stud
 Suspension and steering 10•7

8.40 Stake the hub nut to secure 9.4 Tie-bar-to-lower suspension arm 10.2 Tie-bar and mounting bracket
retaining nuts (arrowed) Note that the XR2 differs slightly from that
fitted to other models

10.4 Tie-bar mounting bracket and bush components

10.5 Tie-bar bush renewal, using draw bolt and cupped washers
A Retaining nut D Bearing F Tie-bar
B Washer E Bracket G Bush sleeve
C Bush

Refitting
9 Front suspension lower arm 10 Front tie-bar - removal and
- removal, bush replacement
and refitting
3 refitting
3 7 Refitting the tie-bar is a reversal of removal.
The shouldered face of the tie-bar must face
upwards when fitted (see illustration). Finally
tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it torque only when the weight of the vehicle is
securely on safety stands (see “Jacking and Removal again on its roadwheels.
vehicle support”). 1 Jack up the front of the vehicle and support
2 Unbolt and remove the pivot bolt from the securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
inboard end of the suspension arm.
vehicle support”).
3 At the outboard end of the suspension arm,
2 Unscrew and remove the nut which holds
disengage the arm from the hub carrier by
unscrewing and removing the pinch-bolt. the tie-bar to the large pressed steel mounting
4 Unscrew the tie-bar-to-lower arm bracket. Take off the dished washer and the
attachment nuts and withdraw the lower arm rubber insulator (see illustration).
(see illustration). 3 Unscrew and remove the tie-bar-to-lower
5 Renewal of the pivot bush at the inboard arm retaining nuts then push the tie-bar
end of the suspension arm is possible using a
10
upwards and clear of the arm.
nut and bolt, or a vice, and suitable distance 4 Remove the tie-bar, together with the
pieces. Apply some brake hydraulic fluid to remaining bush and washer (see illustration).
facilitate installation of the new bush. If the
5 Where necessary, the bush in the pressed-
balljoint is worn or corroded, renew the
suspension arm complete. steel mounting bracket can be renewed if the
6 Refitting the arm is a reversal of removal. old bush is drawn out using a bolt, nut and
Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified suitable distance pieces (see illustration).
torque when the weight of the vehicle is again 6 Lubricate the bush-to-bracket contact 10.7 Shouldered face of tie-bar must face
on the roadwheels. faces before inserting the replacement items. top when fitted
10•8 Suspension and steering

11 Front suspension strut -

removal, overhaul and refitting 3 11.0 Front suspension modified strut top mountings

Note 1: At the beginning of 1986, a revised

type of bolt was introduced to secure the front
stub axle carrier to the suspension strut. X Early type mounting
These bolts are precision ground and provide A Bearing
more positive and accurate location of the B Upper cup washer
stub axle carrier and strut, thus reducing the C Locknut
possibility of a change in suspension and D Nylon spacer
steering angles when the two components are E Lower cup washer
dismantled and reassembled. It is
recommended by Ford that this latest bolt
should be used on pre-1986 models if the
stub axle carrier and suspension strut are
separated.
Note 2: A modified strut top mounting has
been progressively introduced on XR2 models
from November 1984 onwards to eliminate
isolated cases of premature tyre wear. This
later mounting and related parts can be fitted
to early models if required (see illustration).
Note that the nylon spacer on the early
mounting shown is not used on the modified Y Later type mounting
version. A Locknut
Removal B Bearing
C Rubber mounting
1 Slacken the roadwheel bolts, raise the front D Lower cup washer
of the vehicle and support it securely on
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”),
then remove the roadwheel.
2 Position a jack beneath the stub axle carrier
unit and raise it to support the stub axle
carrier, driveshaft and CV joints in their normal
positions to ensure that they are not 8 If the strut has been removed due to oil 11 Once the spring is compressed, unscrew
damaged. leakage or to lack of damping, then it should and remove the nut from the end of the piston
3 Undo the retaining nuts and withdraw the be renewed with a new or factory rod which retains the top mounting. As there
two bolts securing the suspension strut to the reconditioned unit. Dismantling of the original will be a tendency for the piston rod to turn
stub axle carrier (see illustration). strut is not recommended and internal while the nut is unscrewed, provision is made
4 Detach the brake hose and location components are not generally available. at the end of the rod to insert a 6 mm Allen
grommet from the strut bracket. 9 Before the strut is exchanged, the coil key to hold the rod still.
5 Working at the top end of the strut, detach spring will have to be removed. To do this, a 12 Remove the top mounting and lift off the
the cover and then unscrew the strut retaining spring compressor or compressors will be spring and compressor.
nut (see illustration). needed. These are generally available from 13 The compressor need not be released if
6 Withdraw the complete strut assembly from tool hire centres or they can be purchased at the spring is to be fitted immediately to a new
under the front wing. most motor accessory shops. strut. If the compressor is to be released from
10 Engage the compressors over at least the spring, make sure that you do it slowly
Overhaul three coils of the spring and compress the and progressively.
7 Clean away external dirt and mud from the spring sufficiently to release spring tension 14 The top mounting can be dismantled by
strut. from the top mounting (see illustration). sliding off the thrust bearing and withdrawing
the spring upper seat, gaiter spring and,
where fitted, insulator. Also if fitted, slide the
bump stop from the piston rod.

11.3 Suspension strut-to-stub axle carrier 11.5 Strut top mounting nut removal 11.10 Typical spring compressor in
retaining bolts Note Allen key to prevent rod from turning position
 Suspension and steering 10•9

that the correct carrier-to-strut fitting position 10 Fit the brake drum/hub onto the stub axle,
is restored. These bolts can be identified by taking care not to catch the oil seal (grease
their knurled shank (see illustration). retainer) lips.
22 Lower the vehicle so that it is free- 11 Fit the outboard bearing and the
standing before tightening the top mounting thrustwasher and screw the retaining nut into
nuts to its specified wrench setting, then refit position. Adjust the bearing endfloat and
the plastic cover.
lower the vehicle to complete.

Adjustment
12 Rear hub bearings - removal,
refitting and adjustment 3 12 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
on safety stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Release the handbrake.
11.21 Special service bolts for attaching 13 This adjustment will normally only be
strut to carrier Removal required if, when the top and bottom of the
15 Renew any worn or damaged 1 Remove the brake drum (see illustration). roadwheel are gripped and “rocked”,
components. If the front strut and/or coil 2 With the drum removed the bearings and excessive movement can be detected in the
spring is to be renewed then it is advisable inner hub can be cleaned and inspected, but bearings. Slight movement is essential.
also to renew the equivalent assembly on the avoid getting grease onto the braking surface 14 Remove the roadwheels. Using a hammer
other side. of the drum. and cold chisel, tap off the dust cap from the
16 Fit the spring to the strut, making sure 3 Use a suitable tool and hook out the grease end of the hub.
that the ends of the coils locate correctly in retainer from the inner hub. 15 Extract the split pin and take off the nut
the shaped parts of the spring seats. 4 Extract the inner bearing cone. retainer.
17 Fit the top mounting components, being 5 Using a suitable punch, drive out the 16 Tighten the hub nut to a torque of
very careful to maintain the correct order of bearing outer tracks, taking care not to burr
assembly of the individual components. between 20 and 25 Nm (15 and 18 lbf ft), at
the bearing seats. the same time rotating the roadwheel in an
18 Gently release and remove the spring
compressor. Refitting anti-clockwise direction (see illustration).
19 With the spring compressor removed, 17 Unscrew the nut one half a turn and then
6 If new bearings are being fitted to both
check that the ends of the spring are fully hubs do not mix up the bearing components, tighten it only finger tight.
located in the shaped sections of the spring 18 Fit the nut retainer so that two of its slots
but keep them in their individual packs until
seatings. line up with the split pin hole. Insert a new
required.
Refitting 7 Drive the new bearing tracks squarely into split pin, bending the end around the nut, not
their hub recesses. over the end of the stub axle.
20 Refit the strut unit reversing the removal
procedure. 8 Pack both bearings with a lithium-based 19 Tap the dust cap into position.
21 The suspension strut-to-stub axle carrier grease, working plenty into the rollers. Be 20 Recheck the play as described in
fitting position is critical and, during generous, but there is no need to fill the cavity paragraph 13. A fractional amount of wheel
manufacture, this is set using a jig and normal between the inner and outer bearings. movement must be present.
production bolts fitted. When reassembling 9 Locate the inboard bearing and then grease 21 Repeat the operations on the opposite
the stub axle carrier and strut, two new Ford the lips of a new oil seal (grease retainer) and hub, refit the roadwheels and lower the
special service bolts must be used to ensure tap it into position. vehicle to the floor.

10
12.1 Rear hub/drum components

A Grease retainer F Tapered roller bearing

B Tapered roller bearing (outer)
(inner) G Thrustwasher
C Bearing track H Nut
D Hub/drum J Nut lock
E Bearing track K Split pin 12.16 Rear wheel bearing adjustment
L Grease cap
10•10 Suspension and steering

13 Rear shock absorber -

removal, testing and refitting 3
Removal
1 Slacken the rear roadwheel bolts, raise and
support the rear of the vehicle using safety
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 Position a jack beneath the rear axle for
support.
3 Raise the tailgate and, from within the 13.4 Rear suspension shock absorber top 13.5a Rear suspension shock absorber
vehicle at the rear, prise free the plastic cap mounting lower mounting
covering the top end of the rear shock
absorber on the side concerned.
4 Unscrew and remove the shock absorber
upper mounting locknut, washer and insulator
(see illustration).
5 Unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting locknut (see illustration).
Withdraw the bolt then lever the shock
absorber unit upwards to disengage it from its
location peg (see illustrations).
Testing
6 To test the shock absorber, grip its lower
mounting in a vice so that the unit is vertical.
7 Fully extend and extract the shock
absorber ten or twelve times. Any lack of
resistance in either direction will indicate the
need for renewal, as will evidence of leakage
of fluid.
Refitting
13.5b Lever rear shock absorber clear of locating peg to remove it from the peg (A) or
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if a
new unit is being installed, prime it first in a position on the peg (B) when refitting
similar way to that described for testing.
9 To ease the fitting of the shock absorber 4 Renewal of the Panhard rod bushes can be
lower arm onto the location peg, lubricate the
bush and peg with a solution of soapy water.
Locate a suitable section of tubing or a socket
on the top face of the shock absorber location
14 Panhard rod - removal, bush
renewal and refitting 3 accomplished by using sockets or distance
pieces and applying pressure in the jaws of a
vice (see illustration). Lubricate the new
bushes with paraffin to ease fitting.
arm bush and lever it down into position on 5 Refit the Panhard rod by reversing the
1 Raise the vehicle at the rear and support on
the peg. removal procedure. Tighten the retaining bolts
safety stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
10 Locate the lower mounting bolt and to their specified torque wrench settings when
loosely fit the locknut. support”).
2 Undo and remove the Panhard rod-to-body the vehicle is lowered and free-standing.
11 Extend the shock absorber and locate it at
the top end fitting the insulator, washer and nut. retaining bolt (see illustration).
12 Lower the vehicle and when free-standing 3 Unscrew and remove the locknut and bolt
tighten the upper and lower mounting nuts to retaining the Panhard rod to the axle and
the specified torque wrench settings. remove the rod.

14.4 Panhard rod bush removal method

13.5c Rear suspension shock absorber 14.2 Panhard rod mounting to axle (A) and A Bush C Panhard rod
location peg body (B) B Sockets
 Suspension and steering 10•11

15.3 Rear anti-roll bar to body mounting 15.4 Rear anti-roll bar connecting link (B) with upper (A) and
lower (C) bush assemblies
bush can be renewed if worn or defective, but 2 Locate a jack under the rear axle and raise
15 Rear anti-roll bar - removal,
3
the lower bush cannot and it will therefore be it to support (not lift) the axle.
bush renewal and refitting necessary to renew the complete link if this is 3 Remove the retaining nut and disconnect
defective.
the shock absorber at its upper mounting.
7 If the anti-roll bar is damaged or distorted it
must be renewed. 4 Unscrew and remove the lower arm
1 Loosen the roadwheel bolts on each side at through-bolt from the axle.
8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
the rear, raise the rear of the vehicle, support
procedure. When refitting the connecting link 5 Slowly lower the jack under the axle to
on safety stands and remove the rear wheels
to the anti-roll bar ensure that the longer tube release the spring tension and allow its
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
end faces towards the centre of the vehicle. removal. Remove the insulator ring (see
2 Unscrew and remove the shock absorber
9 Do not fully tighten the anti-roll bar location
lower mounting bolt nuts, but do not withdraw illustration).
and mounting nuts until the vehicle is lowered
the bolt. and free-standing. 6 If required, the bump stop rubber can be
3 Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar-to- prised free from its location hole in the axle.
body mounting bracket nuts. Withdraw the When refitting the bump stop, press it down
mounting bush clamps (see illustration).
4 The anti-roll bar and connecting link
assembly can now be disengaged from the
16 Rear coil spring - removal
and refitting 3 firmly into its location hole and turn it so that
its lower section is felt to snap into position
(see illustration).
lower shock absorber mounting and the bar
removed (see illustration). Refitting
5 To remove the body mounting bushes prise Removal
them open by levering within the split on their 1 Slacken the roadwheel bolts, raise the rear 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
rear face. of the vehicle and support it securely with procedure. Do not tighten the lower arm and
6 To detach the connecting links from the safety stands (see “Jacking and vehicle shock absorber retaining nuts until after the
anti-roll bar press free the upper bush. This support”). vehicle is lowered and is free-standing.

10

16.5 Rear coil spring and insulator ring (arrowed) 16.6 Rear suspension coil spring and bump stop rubber
10•12 Suspension and steering

7 Remove the rear anti-roll bar (where fitted).

17 Rear axle and suspension
unit - removal and refitting 4 8 Locate a jack beneath the rear axle and
raise it to support the axle (trolley type, if
possible).
9 Disconnect the shock absorber at its top
18 Rear axle unit - removal and
refitting
4
body mounting.
Removal 10 Undo and remove the lower arm-to-body Removal
1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support on through-bolts (see illustration). 1 Proceed as described in the previous
safety stands (see “Jacking and vehicle 11 The axle and suspension unit can now be Section, paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.
support”). lowered and withdrawn from the underside of
2 Referring to Section 13, disconnect the
2 Release the handbrake, then disconnect the vehicle, but take care not to snag the
shock absorber on each side at its lower end.
the handbrake cable from the equalizer and brake hydraulic pipes.
3 The axle tube and coil spring assemblies
the outer cable from the body location clips.
3 Detach the flexible brake liner from the Refitting can now be lowered and withdrawn from the
lower arm connections on each side. Clean 12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal underside of the vehicle. Take care not to
the hydraulic line connections before procedure, but note the following: snag the brake hydraulic lines when removing.
disconnecting and, to prevent excessive fluid a) Do not fully tighten the chassis and Refitting
loss, plug the pipe ends once they are suspension fastening until after the
detached. vehicle is lowered and is free-standing. 4 Refitting is a direct reversal of the removal
4 Undo the Panhard rod-to-axle pivot bolt The respective torque wrench settings are procedure.
and retaining nut and withdraw the bolt. given in the Specifications. 5 Reconnect the shock absorbers at their
5 Unbolt and detach the exhaust downpipe at b) Reconnect and adjust the handbrake lower mountings.
the flange connection. cable. When the brake lines are 6 Note that the special remarks made in
6 Unbolt and remove the Panhard rod from reconnected, top-up the hydraulic fluid paragraph 12 of the previous Section also
the body. level and bleed the hydraulic circuit. apply when refitting the axle unit.

17.10 Rear suspension lower arm-to-body pivot bolt and nut

 11•1

Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Contents
Body mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Bonnet components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Rear wheel arch cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Door windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Spoilers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Doors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Sunroof components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Facia crash padding and vents - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .18 Tailgate and fixed rear quarter windows - removal and refitting . . . .13
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Tailgate components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Interior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Windscreen - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little
experience
1 for beginner with
some experience
2 suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
3 experienced DIY
mechanic
4 suitable for expert DIY
or professional
5
Specifications
Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ft
All seat belt anchor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30
Front belt stalk-to-seat frame screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 30 18 to 22
Bumper retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 8 to 10

such a way as to prevent grit from scratching

1 General information 2 Maintenance
1
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
The body is of a monocoque all-steel, enough, the best time to clean the underframe
welded construction with impact absorbing Bodywork and underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather when the
front and rear sections. There are two side The general condition of a vehicle’s mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
doors and a full-length lifting tailgate for easy bodywork is the one thing that significantly weather the underframe is usually cleaned of
access to the rear compartment. The side large accumulations automatically and this is
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
doors are fitted with antiburst locks. The a good time for inspection.
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
tailgate hinges are bolted to the underside of Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
the roof panel and welded to the tailgate. based underbody protective coating, it is a
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
Gas-filled dampers support the tailgate in the good idea to have the whole of the
open position; when closed it is fastened by a important also to keep watch on those parts underframe of the vehicle steam cleaned,
key-operated lock. of the vehicle not immediately visible, for engine compartment included, so that a
Wrap-around polycarbonate bumpers are instance the underside, inside all the wheel thorough inspection can be carried out to see
arches and the lower part of the engine 11
fitted front and rear, and further body what minor repairs and renovations are
protection is given by side mouldings which compartment. necessary. Steam cleaning is available at
are also manufactured in this material. The basic maintenance routine for the many garages and is necessary for removal of
Rust and corrosion protection is applied to bodywork is washing preferably with a lot of the accumulation of oily grime which
all new vehicles and includes zinc phosphate water, from a hose. This will remove all the sometimes is allowed to become thick in
dipping and wax injection of the box sections loose solids which may have stuck to the certain areas. If steam cleaning facilities are
and door interiors. vehicle. It is important to flush these off in not available, there are one or two excellent
11•2 Bodywork and fittings

grease solvents available. The dirt can then be Should the dent be in a section of the
simply hosed off. Note that these methods
should not be used on vehicles with wax-
based underbody protective coating or the
3 Minor body damage - repair
2 bodywork which has a double skin or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
coating will be removed. Such vehicles should
the area particularly in the deeper section.
be inspected annually, preferably just prior to Repair of minor scratches in Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
winter, when the underbody should be bodywork holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good
washed down and any damage to the wax If the scratch is very superficial, and does purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
coat should be applied. It would also be worth repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of of the screws with a pair of pliers.
considering the use of such wax-based the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a The next stage of the repair is the removal
protection for injection into door panels, sills, very fine cutting paste to remove loose paint of the paint from the damaged area, and from
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard from the scratch and to clear the surrounding an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
against rust damage where such protection is bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer. clean water. by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
Apply touch-up paint or a paint film to the power drill, although it can be done just as
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to effectively by hand using sheets of abrasive
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding score the surface of the bare metal with a
will give added protection against chemical paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen weeks to harden: then blend it into the alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area. This will provide a really good “key” for
combination to restore the brilliance of the area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine the filler paste.
shine. This requires a little effort, but such cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. To complete the repair see the Section on
dulling is usually caused because regular Where the scratch has penetrated right filling and re-spraying.
washing has been neglected. Care needs to through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
Repair of rust holes or gashes in
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bodywork
nonabrasive cleaner/polisher is required to Remove all paint from the affected area and
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
the door and ventilator opening drain holes formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
and pipes are completely clear so that water or nylon applicator fill the scratch with brush on a power drill. If these are not
can be drained out. Bright work should be bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can available a few sheets of abrasive paper will
treated in the same way as paint work. be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a do the job just as effectively. With the paint
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow removed you will be able to gauge the severity
of the smeary film which often appears, by the scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the of the corrosion and therefore decide whether
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
use of a proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the to repair the affected area. New body panels
any form of wax or other body or chromium are not as expensive as most people think
finger in cellulose thinners and then quickly
polish on glass. and it is often quicker and more satisfactory
sweep it across the surface of the stopper-
Upholstery and carpets paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair
surface of the stopper-paste is slightly large areas of corrosion.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or hollowed. The scratch can now be painted Remove all fittings from the affected area
vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of over as described earlier in this Section. except those which will act as a guide to the
grit. If they are badly stained remove them original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging Repair of dents in bodywork headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
and make quite sure they are dry before When deep denting of the vehicle’s hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be bodywork has taken place, the first task is to any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order
almost attains its original shape. There is little to create a slight depression for the filler paste.
do become stained (which can be more
point in trying to restore the original shape Wire brush the affected area to remove the
apparent on light coloured upholstery) use a powdery rust from the surface of the
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to will have stretched on impact and cannot be remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
scour the grime out of the grain of the reshaped fully to its original contour. It is rust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining better to bring the level of the dent up to a area is accessible treat this also.
clean in the same way as the upholstery. point which is about 1/8 in (3 mm) below the Before filling can take place it will be
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases necessary to block the hole in some way. This
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
Excessive damp could get into the seams and not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
padded interior causing stains, offensive underside of the dent is accessible, it can be Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibre
hammered out gently from behind, using a matting, is probably the best material to use for
odours or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle
mallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilst a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate
gets wet accidentally it is worthwhile taking doing this, hold a suitable block of wood size and shape of the hole to be filled, then
some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly firmly against the outside of the panel to position it in the hole so that its edges are
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or absorb the impact from the hammer blows below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork can be retained in position by several blobs of
purpose. from being “belled-out”. filler paste around its periphery.
 Bodywork and fittings 11•3

Aluminium tape should be used for small or filling small holes. Repeat this spray and up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and repair procedure until you are satisfied that Any excess plastic is then removed and the
trim it to the approximate size and shape the surface of the filler, and the feathered area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
required, then pull off the backing paper (if edge of the paintwork are perfect. Clean the important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can repair area with clean water and allow to dry is used, as body components can be made of
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is fully. a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the The repair area is now ready for final
ABS, polypropylene).
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
attached to the metal underneath. atmosphere. This condition can be created minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
artificially if you have access to a large indoor owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
Bodywork repairs - filling and working area, but if you are forced to work in material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
re-spraying the open, you will have to pick your day very this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
Before using this Section, see the Sections carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash the floor in the work area with water will help cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
repairs. to settle the dust which would otherwise be in sanding and painting.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined If the owner is renewing a complete
generally speaking those proprietary kits to one body panel, mask off the surrounding component himself, or if he has repaired it
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of panels; this will help to minimise the effects of with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth which is compatible with the type of plastic
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
and well contoured finish to the surface of the masking tape and several thicknesses of used. At one time the use of a universal paint
filler. newspaper for the masking operations. was not possible owing to the complex range
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card Before commencing to spray, agitate the of plastics encountered in body component
or board - measure the hardener carefully aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area applications. Standard paints, generally
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack) (an old tin, or similar) until the technique is speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler coat of primer; the thickness should be built obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
paste to the prepared area; draw the up using several thin layers of paint rather consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
applicator across the surface of the filler to than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and- and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
achieve the correct contour and to level the dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer normally supplied with a kit, but basically the
filler surface. As soon as a contour that until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
approximates to the correct one is achieved, work area should be thoroughly doused with
stop working the paste - if you carry on too to the component concerned and allow it to
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
long the paste will become sticky and begin to rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add on more paint. applied and left to dry for about an hour
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute Spray on the top coat, again building up the before finally applying the special coloured
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud thickness by using several thin layers of paint. top coat. The result is a correctly coloured
of the surrounding bodywork. Start spraying in the centre of the repair area component where the paint will flex with the
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be and then work outwards, with a side-to-side plastic or rubber, a property that standard
removed using a metal plane or file. From then motion, until the whole repair area and about paint does not normally possess.
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork
paper should be used, starting with a 40 is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
grade production paper and finishing with 400 4 Major body damage - repair
5
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the paint.
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
wooden block - otherwise the surface of the harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
filler will not be completely flat. During the very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry Where serious damage has occurred or
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
paper should be periodically rinsed in water. large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
wax polish.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is means certainly that completely new sections
imparted to the filler at the final stage. Plastic components or panels will need welding in and this is best
At this stage the “dent” should be With the use of more and more plastic body left to professionals. If the damage is due to
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg impact, it will also be necessary to completely
turn should be encircled by the finely bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major check the alignment of the bodyshell
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork. body panels), rectification of more serious structure. Due to the principle of construction,
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all damage to such items has become a matter the strength and shape of the whole car can
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down of either entrusting repair work to a specialist be affected by damage to one part. In such
operation has gone. in this field, or renewing complete
instances the services of a Ford agent with
Spray the whole repair area with a light coat components. Repair of such damage by the 11
specialist checking jigs are essential. If a body
of primer - this will show up any imperfections DIY owner is not really feasible owing to the
in the surface of the filler. Repair these cost of the equipment and materials required is left misaligned, it is first of all dangerous as
imperfections with fresh filler paste or for effecting such repairs. The basic technique the car will not handle properly, and secondly
bodystopper, and once more smooth the involves making a groove along the line of the uneven stresses will be imposed on the
surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is crack in the plastic using a rotary burr in a steering, engine and transmission, causing
used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners power drill. The damaged part is then welded abnormal wear or complete failure. Tyre wear
to form a really thin paste which is ideal for back together by using a hot air gun to heat may also be excessive.
11•4 Bodywork and fittings

5.2 Bonnet stay retaining bolts (arrowed)

5 Bonnet - removal and refitting

2 5.7 Bonnet surround clearance to wing (A) and to the cowl panel (B)

8 Lower or raise the lock unit so that the 4 Withdraw the cable through the bulkhead
bonnet is level with the cowl panel and wings. and into the car interior for removal.
Removal Tighten the securing bolts and recheck the 5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
bonnet alignment and release unit for procedure. On completion check the
1 Open the bonnet and support it by using a
satisfactory operation. operation of the release mechanism before
prop or have an assistant hold it.
shutting the bonnet and again afterwards.
2 Undo and remove the bolt which secures
Lock
2
the stay at one end (see illustration). 6 Bonnet components -
3 Remove the radiator grille. removal and refitting 6 Open and support the bonnet.
4 Mark an outline around the hinge plates to 7 Detach the cable grommet from the
aid realignment of the bonnet when refitting it, location bracket on the lock unit and
then undo the four hinge bolts and lift the disconnect the cable from the lock.
bonnet clear. Release cable 8 Undo the two retaining bolts and withdraw
1 Working inside the vehicle, extract the three the lock unit from the plenum chamber cover
Refitting
screws and remove the steering column plate.
5 Refit by reversing the removal operations. If shroud. Open the bonnet. Releasing the 9 Refit by reversing the removal procedure. If
a new bonnet is being installed, position it so bonnet when the cable is broken is not easy: necessary adjust the position of the lock unit
that an equal gap is provided at each side support the car securely on axle stands or prior to fully tightening the retaining bolts.
when it is being closed. ramps. Reach up between the bulkhead and
6 The bonnet should close smoothly and remove the bolts securing the lock unit to the
positively without excessive pressure. If it
does not, carry out the following adjustment.
7 Loosen the bolts retaining the bonnet lock
plenum chamber cover plate. The bonnet
should be free to lift.
2 Draw the cable sideways and disengage
7 Radiator grille - removal and
refitting 1
unit on the bulkhead plenum chamber cover, the inner cable nipple from the release lever.
then locate the bonnet so that the clearance 3 On the engine compartment side of the 1 Grip each end of the radiator grille and pull
between it and the cowl panel is as shown bulkhead, detach the cable grommet from the it upwards to detach it from its lower support
(see illustration). Align the bonnet so that the location bracket on the bonnet lock unit, and (see illustration), then withdraw it and
gap between it and the wing panels is even disconnect the cable from the lock (see disconnect it from the three top fasteners.
and set at the clearance shown. illustration). 2 Refitting is the reversal of removal.

6.3 Bonnet release cable-to-lock attachment 7.1 Radiator grille removal; pull up (A), pull out (B) and then swing
the grille downwards
 Bodywork and fittings 11•5

8.5 Tailgate hinge retaining nuts (arrowed)

8 Tailgate - removal and

refitting 2 8.7 Tailgate-to-roof alignment clearance and to weatherstrip flange

1 Open the tailgate fully and disconnect the

5 Unscrew the hinge nuts (see illustration), 10 Remove the latch assembly.
leads from the heated rear window and the
remove them with the washers and lift the 11 Remove the solenoid fixing screws and
wiper (where fitted).
tailgate from the vehicle. unhook the operating rod, then withdraw the
2 From the top edge of the tailgate aperture,
6 The tailgate lock and (if fitted) the wiper solenoid assembly.
remove the weatherstrip and then peel back
motor are accessible for removal once the 12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
the headlining.
trim panel has been released from its securing make sure that the operating rod is securely
3 With an assistant supporting the tailgate,
clips. engaged in the nylon actuator.
unbolt and remove the struts. The strut
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
balljoint is released by prising out the small
fully tighten the hinge screws until the tailgate Striker
plastic peg. 13 Open and support the tailgate.
has been adjusted to give the correct
4 Make an outline marking around the hinge 14 Make an outline marking around the
alignment (see illustration).
mounting positions to provide an alignment striker to provide an alignment guide when
guide when refitting the tailgate. refitting it.
9 Tailgate components -
removal and refitting 2 15 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
them, together with the washers, then
withdraw the striker.
16 Refit in the reverse order to removal.
Check that the striker is correctly aligned with
Lock barrel the previously made outline marking before
1 Open and support the tailgate. fully tightening the retaining bolts.
2 Unclip and detach the tailgate trim panel.
3 Unclip and detach the rod from the plastic Strut (damper unit)
lever (see illustration). 17 Open the tailgate and support it with a
4 Slide the lock retainer along so that its prop or get an assistant to support it.
exposed large aperture aligns with the lock 18 Using a screwdriver as shown (see
barrel, then remove the retainer and extract illustration), prise free and release the strut
the lock unit and pad from the tailgate. retaining peg at each end and remove the
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal strut by pulling it free from the joints.
procedure. 19 Refit in the reverse order to removal.
9.3 Tailgate lock barrel clip (A), cylinder Latch
(B) and retainer (C) 6 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 3.
7 Undo the three screws and remove the
latch unit, together with the lever and rod (see
illustration).
8 Refit reversing the removal procedure.
Check that the latch is fitted so that the rod
and lever are in alignment with the end of the
lock barrel.
Latch remote release
9 A remotely controlled, electrically operated
11
tailgate release is fitted to certain later
models. The main component is a
solenoid/thermal switch assembly, which is
only supplied complete (even though only one
9.7 Tailgate latch and securing screws section of the assembly to be renewed may 9.18 Tailgate damper strut detachment
be faulty).
11•6 Bodywork and fittings

10.2a Door hinge roll pin 10.2b Door hinge solid pin (permanent) 10.2c Upper door hinge solid pin
(removable)

Solid pins
10 Doors - removal and refitting
2 Permanent
5 Where these pins are used, door removal is
only possible after unbolting the hinges from
11 Door components - removal
and refitting 3
1 Open the door fully and support its lower the body. The fixing nuts can be reached after
edge on a jack or blocks covered with a pad removing the side trim panel at the footwell Mirror and glass
of rag. and the facia panel lower cover. 1 To renew the glass, prise free the retainer
2 Three different types of hinge pins have Removable from the mirror body using a coin or similar
been used in production (see illustrations) 6 This type of hinge pin can be removed after suitable lever and remove the glass (see
and the particular method of removal for each extracting the circlip and prising or tapping the illustration).
type is given in the following paragraphs: pin downwards. The lower hinge pin cannot be 2 Locate the new glass into position and
removed and the hinge must be unbolted. press the new retainer evenly around its
Roll pins
perimeter onto the body. Check that the
3 Detach and remove the plastic plugs from Both types
retainer is fully engaged on completion.
the hinge pins. 7 Lift the door clear of the stubs and remove it. 3 To remove the mirror unit complete, prise
4 Using a suitable length of rod or, if 8 Refit the door reversing the removal
available, Ford special tool 41.002, drift out free the plastic cover from the adjustment
procedure. Lubricate the hinges and pins as
the hinge pins: knocking them downwards. knob using a suitable screwdriver.
they are fitted and ensure that the hinge pin
Get an assistant to support and steady the holes are correctly aligned when drifting the 4 Remove the knob and door trim panel.
door during this operation. new hinge pins into position. 5 Support the mirror body and unscrew and
remove the two securing nuts through the
aperture in the door inner panel (see
illustration). Remove the mirror and gasket.
6 Refit in the reverse order of removal
ensuring that the mirror-to-body gasket is
correctly aligned before tightening the
securing nuts.
Trim panel
7 Carefully prise free the cover pads from the
window winder handle, the door mirror
adjuster and the trim panel (one at the forward
edge and one at the lower edge in the centre)
11.1 Door mirror glass retainer removal 11.5 Door mirror attachment nuts (see illustrations).
(arrowed)

11.7a Remove cover pad from the window 11.7b . . . the door mirror adjuster . . . 11.7c . . . and the trim panel
regulator handle . . .
 Bodywork and fittings 11•7

11.8a Remove retaining screws . . . 11.8b . . . and withdraw the regulator 11.8c Remove the trim panel retaining
handle screws

11.9 Remove the door control handle 11.11 Prise free the door panel and 11.15 Door lock barrel (A), retainer (B),
bezel screw locating clips lock rod (C) and clip (D)
8 With the pads removed, unscrew and Lock 20 Undo the three screws and remove the
remove the retaining screws (see 14 Remove the door trim panel and insulation latch unit, manoeuvring it free from the rear of
illustrations). screen. the glass rim extension (see illustration).
9 Undo and remove the door control handle 15 Detach the lock rod from the latch then 21 Detach the private lock rod from the latch
bezel retaining screw and withdraw the bezel pull the retainer from the door cylinder (see then the retaining clips and black bush from
(see illustration). illustration). the levers (see illustration).
10 Remove the door pull/armrest which is 16 Withdraw the lock cylinder, together with 22 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
secured by two screws. the lock rod, from the door. procedure. To ease refitting of the black bush
11 Carefully prise free and remove the panel 17 Refitting is a reversal of the removal and sliding clip soak them in hot water prior to
from the door (see illustration). procedure. When inserting the lock cylinder, fitting. When fitting the latch unit into position
12 Withdraw the insulating washer from the ensure that the cylinder lever points towards it must be in its closed position. Check that all
window winder handle shaft then carefully the front of the car and check that the lock
control rod securing clips are secure before
peel back the plastic insulating screen from barrel is correctly aligned before fitting the
the door for access to the components within refitting the door trim assembly.
retainer.
the door cavity. Remote control handle
13 Refit the panel in the reverse order of Latch unit
18 Remove the door trim panel and insulation 23 Remove the door trim panel and insulation
removal.
screen. screen.
19 Unclip and detach the remote control rod, 24 Unclip and detach the remote control rod
the exterior handle rod and the lock cylinder from the latch then push free the anti-rattle
rods from the latch levers (see illustration). retainer from the door.

11
11.19 Door latch and rod attachments

A Private lock rod and bush

B Lock rod (exterior)
C Exterior handle rod 11.20 Door latch 11.21 Latch lever black bush (A), fixed
D Remote control rod clips (B) and sliding clip (C)
11•8 Bodywork and fittings

11.25 Door remote control handle (B), 11.28 Door striker 11.30 Adjust striker position to align with
retaining screws (A) and bezel (C) the latch throat centre line
25 Undo the two screws securing the remote Exterior handle
control handle (see illustration).
31 Remove the door trim panel and insulation
26 Fully raise the window, manoeuvre the screen.
handle and rod into the door cavity, 32 Detach the lock rod from the latch nut
disconnect the rod from the handle and then unscrew and remove the handle retaining
extract the handle and rod. screws (see illustration). Remove the handle
27 Refitting is a reversal of the removal and lock rod from the door.
procedure. When refitting the handle to the 33 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
inner door panel move it as far as possible to When inserting the lock rod into the handle
the rear before tightening the retaining the rod latch end must face to the rear. Smear
screws. the end of the rod with Vaseline to ease
Striker plate assembly.
28 Loosen the striker locknut then unscrew Window regulators 11.32 Door exterior handle retaining
and remove the striker, together with washer, 34 Remove the door trim panel and insulation screws viewed from within the door
from the door pillar (see illustration). screen.
29 To refit the striker, locate the washer onto 35 Adjust the window position so that the
the threaded end of the striker so that the 38 Push the window upwards into the closed
regulator and bracket are accessible through
cone apex is adjacent to the nut face. Screw position, support it with a prop and then
the lower aperture in the door inner panel (see
the striker into position, but do not fully carefully withdraw the window regulator from
illustration).
tighten it yet. the door cavity.
36 Use a suitable bit and drill through the
30 Close and open the door and align the 39 Refit in the reverse order of removal, but
four window regulator-to-inner panel securing
striker with the latch (see illustration). When note the following:
rivets (see illustration).
the door shuts in a satisfactory manner open 40 Locate the regulator into its approximate
37 Press the regulator into the door cavity,
it and retighten the locknut to set the striker in position with the winder shaft resting on door
then slide the regulator arm to the rear and
the required position. disengage it from the slide. panel aperture; then, with the window lowered
to align its bracket with the aperture in the
door inner panel, re-engage the regulator arm.
11.35 Door window regulator components Align the regulator unit rivet holes and using a
pop rivet gun, secure the regulator with four
pop-rivets.
41 Check the window regulator operation
prior to refitting the door trim panel and
insulating screen.

A Regulator
B Door inner panel
C Regulator attachment
D Anti-rattle pad
E Door trim pad
F Escutcheon
G Regulator handle
H Securing rivets
J Bezel
K Regulator handle screw

11.36 Window regulator-to-door panel

securing rivets
 Bodywork and fittings 11•9

12.2a Inner door belt weatherstrip removal 12.2b Outer door belt weatherstrip
removal
A Retaining clip B Clip installed 12.3 Quarter window channel (A), upper
fixing (B), lower fixing (C) and
Note: remove bright external moulding on L
12 Door windows - removal and
refitting 3 and GLS models
3 Pull the window channel weatherstrip
adhesive pad (D)

10 Detach the clips from the triangular portion

rubber down and undo screw B (see of the weatherstrip and peel it away from the
illustration) from the frame top corner. door frame to which it is retained by adhesive.
Quarter windows 11 Prise free (taking care) the quarter window
4 Undo the lower retaining screw, pull the
Fixed type channel rearwards to an angle of 45° and and channel, final removal of the channel
remove it. being achieved by drilling out the two pop
1 Lower the door window then remove the rivets (see illustrations).
door trim panel and insulation screen. 5 Carefully prise free the triangular
12 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
2 Carefully prise free and remove the inner weatherstrip from its adhesive pad and
13 Ease refitting of the weatherstrip by
and outer door belt weatherstrips (see retaining clips which untwist for removal.
applying soapy water to it. Avoid getting the
illustrations). 6 Prise free the weatherstrip and glass from soapy water onto the adhesive pad.
the door, then detach the weatherstrip from 14 When fitting the window and channel
the glass (if required). check that the glass is located in the channel.
7 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Insert and, if required, push the weatherstrip
Lubricate the weatherstrip with soapy water to vertical section upwards to get the window to
ease its fitting to the glass. When refitting the fit correctly at the top corner.
glass and weatherstrip to the door insert as 15 When fitted, adjust the channel by
far forwards as possible. Clean off all soapy loosening the upper and lower retaining
water from the weatherstrip prior to peeling screws so that the glass does not tilt in its
off the backing paper from the adhesive pad frame, then retighten the screws.
and pressing it into position. If a new pad is Main windows
not being fitted stick some double-sided
16 Remove the door quarter window.
adhesive tape to the old pad before fitting.
17 Slide the door glass forward to detach the
Opening type regulator arm from the glass bracket/slide
8 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2 (see illustration).
in the previous Section. 18 Support the glass, holding it towards the
9 Pull the window channel weatherstrip innermost edge of the window opening, and
downwards and undo the retaining screw withdraw it from the door.
19 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Tilt
from the top end of the frame.
the glass down at the front end when inserting
it into the door. Lubricate the regulator slide
and check window operation prior to refitting
the door trim panel.

11
12.11a Quarter window (opening)
attachments 12.11b Quarter window catch components

A Upper screw D Glass retaining A Handle D Seal washer

B Rivets screw B Glass E End cap screw 12.17 Door window regulator arm
C Lower screw E Seal washer C Bush F End cap detachment
11•10 Bodywork and fittings

13 Tailgate and fixed rear

quarter windows - removal
and refitting
5
1 It is advisable to entrust this operation to a
specialist who will have the special tools
which are necessary to remove and fit the
glass to vehicle body seals.

14 Windscreen - removal and

refitting 5 15.1 Break adhesive bond of mirror to 16.1 Bumper retaining nuts under wing
windscreen using cord panel
1 It is advisable to entrust this operation to a of a blower heater on both the glass and
specialist who will have the special tools
Front quarter bumpers
mirror should achieve this temperature level.
which are necessary to remove and fit the Take necessary precautions to avoid burns. Metal centre section type
glass to vehicle body seals. 8 Use a pair of suitable pliers and detach the
quarter bumper retaining tangs, as shown
15 Interior mirror - removal and
refitting 2
16 Bumpers - removal and
refitting 2 (see illustration).
9 Once removed the quarter bumper must be
renewed.
10 Refit by pushing the quarter bumper into
position on the metal section.
1 The interior mirror is bonded to the Front bumper All moulded type
windscreen glass. If it must be removed, use a
length of thin nylon cord (see illustration) to Metal centre section type 11 Prise out and remove the moulding strip
break the adhesive bond between the stem of 1 From underneath each front wing, undo from the quarter bumper to expose the
the mirror and the windscreen patch. and remove the two bumper retaining nuts retainer heads.
2 When refitting the mirror, the following (see illustration). 12 Use a chisel and remove the rivet heads
preliminary work must first be carried out. 2 Disengage the quarter bumper retainer from the upper retainer, then press out the
each side then, from the front of the car, grip rivets.
3 Remove existing adhesive from the
13 Prise open and detach the bumper-to-
windscreen glass using a suitable solvent. the bumper and pull it free.
quarter bumper retaining clips (see
Allow the solvent to evaporate. The location of 3 Refit reversing the removal procedure.
illustration), then remove the quarter bumper.
the mirror base is marked on the glass with a Check that the quarter bumper retainers are 14 Clean the moulding recess out with
black patch, so that there should not be any fully engaged each side and that the bumper methylated spirit to remove the adhesive.
chance of an error when fitting. is aligned correctly. 15 Align and fit the quarter bumper to the
4 If the original mirror is being refitted, clean
All moulded type main bumper and locate the securing clips
away all the old adhesive from the mirror and rivets.
mounting base, and apply a new adhesive 4 From underneath each front wing, undo
16 Using a blowlamp, or similar, very
patch to it. and remove the bumper retaining nuts.
carefully heat the new moulding so that it is
5 If a new windscreen is being installed, peel 5 Open the bonnet and unscrew the bumper
warm to the touch then detach the backing
off the protective layer from the black patch, retaining nut beneath each headlamp unit paper from the moulding and locate the
which is pre-coated with adhesive. (see illustration). moulding into the quarter bumper channel
6 Peel off the protective layer from the mirror 6 Disengage the quarter bumper retainer recess, pressing it firmly into position.
adhesive patch and locate the mirror precisely each side, then, from the front of the car, grip
onto the black patch on the screen. Hold it in the bumper and pull it free. Rear bumper
position for at least two minutes. 7 Refit reversing the removal procedure. 17 Open the tailgate and lift out the floor cover
7 For best results, the fitting of a bonded type Check that the quarter bumper retainers are and tool tray from the luggage compartment.
mirror should be carried out in an ambient fully engaged each side and that the bumper
temperature of 70°C (158°F). The careful use is correctly aligned.

16.13 Fully moulded quarter bumper

attachments
16.5 Bumper retaining nut in engine 16.8 Quarter bumper retaining tang A Moulding C Retaining clips
compartment removal B Quarter bumper
 Bodywork and fittings 11•11

17.1 Front spoiler attachment screw 17.2 Drill out the front spoiler retaining 17.6 Front wheel arch spoiler retaining
positions (A) rivets nuts (A), joint screws (B) and rear lower
corner (C)
18 Detach the number plate wiring. Rear
19 Undo the bumper retaining nuts from the 11 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
rear face of the floor area on each side, then on safety stands, remove the wheel on the
grip the bumper and withdraw it, simultaneously side concerned for access to the spoiler
disengaging the quarter bumpers each side. underside.
20 Refit in the reverse order to removal. 12 Remove the rear bumper.
Renew the rubber seal washers on the 13 Undo and remove the two retaining
bumper retaining studs if they are perished or screws from the wheel arch flange.
in poor condition. Ensure that the quarter 14 The spoiler is secured by five rivets (see
bumper retainers fully engage when fitting. illustration). Carefully drill out the rivets using
a 4.5 mm diameter drill.
15 Remove the two screws from the wheel
17 Spoilers - removal and
refitting 2 arch and rear panel moulding joint.
16 Grip the moulding at the rear and pull it
free from the wheel arch/rocker panel and
17.7 Front wheel arch spoiler rivet
positions (A)
push-fit fasteners. The moulding is
Front additionally secured by means of adhesive locate the spoiler pressing firmly home into
tape to the bodywork, and the bond between the push-in fasteners. Smooth the spider
1 Undo and remove the front spoiler retaining
the two must be broken carefully. down and check that its top edge contacts
screws, two each side, from the positions
indicated (see illustration). 17 Remove the plastic fasteners from the the body along its full length.
2 The spoiler is further attached to the front wheel arch and rocker panel by inserting a 21 Refitting is now a reversal of the removal
panel by rivets, nine at the front and one at the self-tapping screw and pulling them free (see procedure. Use Ford special rivets to secure
top leading edge of the wheel arch spider illustration). Remove any adhesive tape the spoiler and leave tightening the retaining
each side. Use a suitable drill (4.5 mm remaining in position on the bodywork or screws until after the rivets are fitted.
diameter) and drill out the rivets (see moulding.
illustration). 18 Clean the areas of contact for the
3 The spoiler can now be withdrawn.
4 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but use the proper Ford rivets to
adhesive tape with methylated spirits. Insert
new plastic fasteners in place of those
removed.
18 Facia crash padding and
vents - removal and refitting 3
secure the spoiler as they have a plastic body 19 Carefully warm up the spoiler tape
coating to protect against corrosion. channel until it is warm to the touch. (Use a
blow lamp, or similar, but take great care). Removal
Wheel arches 20 Apply primer and the new length of 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
adhesive tape to the spider, then fit the spoiler 2 Remove the steering wheel.
Front
front edge under the sill panel moulding, 3 Remove the steering column shrouds and
5 Raise and support the vehicle at the front. detach the protector film from the tape and combination switches.
Remove the roadwheel on the side concerned
for access to the underside of the spoiler.
6 Undo and remove the five retaining nuts
and two retaining screws from the positions
indicated (see illustration).
7 Use a 4.5 mm diameter drill and drill out the
seven securing rivets from the locations
indicated (see illustration).
8 Detach the spoiler retaining studs from the
wheel arch, then grip the spoiler on its lower 11
corner and pull it to disengage it from the
pushfit fasteners.
9 To remove the plastic fasteners from the sill
panel and wing edge, insert a self-tapping
screw into them and pull them free. 17.17 Rear wheel arch removal
10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal 17.14 Rear wheel arch spoiler flange Inset shows method of withdrawing the
procedure. screw (A) and rivet positions plastic fasteners
11•12 Bodywork and fittings

4 Disconnect the bonnet release handle.

5 Disconnect and remove the following items:
a) Facia trim and instrument cluster unit
b) Radio (where applicable)
c) Fuse/relay box
d) Indicator and facia switches
6 Remove the heater control panel (see
illustration).
7 Detach and remove the carpet from
underneath the dashboard.
8 Where applicable, remove the choke control
cable housing which is secured by a single
screw, then remove the choke knob and push
the choke cable and switch forwards through 18.6 Heater control panel retaining screws 18.8 Choke control unit removal
the crash pad (see illustration).

18.9 Heater control panel and facia panel retaining screw 18.10 Heater control panel and crash pad retaining screw
positions positions
Note position of strengthening bar (A)

9 Undo the heater control panel mounting base can be removed as the facia crash pad
screws (see illustration). Push the bulb is withdrawn. 19 Sunroof components -
holders forwards to the underside of the crash
pad.
10 Detach the screw covers from the top of
13 The centre and side vents can be
detached from the facia crash pad by undoing
the retaining screws (see illustrations).
removal and refitting
3
the crash pad (see illustration).
11 Detach the glovebox light wires and pull Refitting
Panel
the wires through to the underside of the 14 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
crash pad. Ensure that all electrical connections are 1 Compress the sunroof catch each side to
12 Undo and remove the six crash pad correctly and securely made. On completion, disengage the handle pins from the bracket.
retaining screws and carefully withdraw the check the operation of the various Lift the roof panel, detach the stop clip and
crash pad facia. The strengthening bar at the instruments and controls. remove the panel (see illustration).

18.13a Central vent retaining screws 18.13b Side vent retaining screw
 Bodywork and fittings 11•13

19.1 Glass sunroof components

A Screw E Shim
B Hinge plate F Spacer
C Pedestal block G Pivot block
D Handle screw block H Handle

2 If the sunroof panel is being renewed, undo flange, the seal ends must abut in the centre required, by adding or subtracting washers
the hinge plate retaining screws and remove it of the rear flange. Cut the seal to length as under the handle so that the roof line is flush
from the pedestal block. Remove the handle required (see illustration). to the panel (see illustration).
pivot retainers in a similar manner and 5 When assembling the handle screw block
withdraw the adjusting washer(s) from the to the panel, locate the shim, fit the block legs Handle bracket
handle screw block, then detach the block into their holes in the glass and then fit the 8 Remove the sunroof panel then undo and
from the panel. Pull free the seal and pedestal washer onto each block leg. remove the handle cap securing screw. Lower
block covers from the panel. 6 If necessary, the hinge plates can be and remove the handle cup.
3 Refitting is a reversal of the removal adjusted (see illustration). 9 Undo the two bracket retaining bolts and
procedure, but note the following: 7 When the panel is fitted and closed, check remove the bracket. Collect and note any
4 When fitting a new seal to the roof tray the height of the roof tray and adjust, if adjustment washers (see illustration).
10 Refit in the reverse order of removal and
adjust it as described in paragraph 7.
Hinge retainer
11 Remove the sunroof panel and then
carefully prise free and remove the roof
aperture weatherstrip.
12 Detach the headlining securing clips from
the aperture flange and then pull down the
headlining (with care) to expose the retainer
and its securing screws.
13 Undo the retainer securing screws and
withdraw it, together with its seal (see
illustration).
19.4 Sunroof glass weatherstrip joint 19.6 Hinge plate adjustment direction 14 Refit in the reverse order of removal, but
location fit a new retainer seal.

11

19.7 Adjust roof panel height position by 19.9 Undo the bracket retaining bolts 19.13 Sunroof hinge retainer removal
inserting (or removing) washers as required
11•14 Bodywork and fittings

20.2 Seat belt upper anchor components 20.5 Seat belt inertia reel retaining bolt 20.6 Seat belt stalk and buckle
components
A Paper washer D Anchor
B Spacer E Bush 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal A Bolt D Washer
C Anti-rotation F Bolt procedure, but note the following special B Cover E Spacer
spacer points: C Stalk and buckles F Paper washer
8 When fitting the inertia reel unit check that 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal. When
the locating pegs engage fully. fitting the reel unit to the quarter panel check
20 Seat belts - removal and
refitting 2 9 When fitting the upper anchorage check
that the webbing does not get twisted and
also that the anti-rotation peg engages fully
that the location peg engages fully into its
hole. Check that the webbing does not get
twisted during refitting. Tighten the retaining
into the pillar. bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.
10 Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified 18 On completion check that the belt
Belts and stalks - front torque wrench settings. operation is satisfactory.
1 Undo the lower anchor bar retaining bolt 11 Check the seat belt for satisfactory
and remove the bar rear end from the operation when the seats are readjusted to
mounting panel.
2 Remove the cover from the upper anchor
and disconnect the upper anchor (see
illustration).
their normal positions.
Belts - rear
12 Prise free and pivot up the inertia reel unit
21 Seats - removal and refitting
2
3 From the rear quarter panel trim, remove cover (if fitted) then undo and remove the
the belt webbing guide and let the belt retract retaining bolt (see illustration). Front seat
onto its reel. 13 Remove the rear seat cushion and push 1 Slide the seat as far forward as it will go.
4 Detach and withdraw the quarter trim the buckles through the cushion slit as it is 2 Unscrew and remove the bolts which retain
panel. withdrawn. the rear of the seat slides to the floorpan.
5 Undo the inertia reel unit retaining bolt and 14 Unscrew the six buckle and lower anchor 3 Slide the seat as far to the rear as it will go
remove the reel unit (see illustration). retaining screws (see illustration). and remove the bolts which secure the front
6 The stalk and buckle unit can be detached 15 Remove the C pillar anchor point covers ends of the slides to the floor.
by unscrewing the single retaining bolt, but and disconnect the upper anchors. 4 Remove the seat from the vehicle interior.
note the locations of the washer, spacer and 16 Prise free the webbing guides from the 5 If the seat slides must be detached from the
paper washer as they are removed (see package tray supports and remove the guides seat, invert the seat and remove the two bolts
illustration). whilst letting the webbing wind into the reel. from each side. Detach the cross-rod and clips.

20.12 Inertia reel mounting (rear seats) 20.14 Rear seat belt anchorage points

A Peg locating hole C Mounting bolt A Inertia reel anchor points D Inertia reel buckles
B Locating peg D Mounting B Centre lap belt E Centre lap buckle
C Inertia reel buckles F Inertia reel anchor point
 Bodywork and fittings 11•15

21.7 Rear seat cushion securing screw positions 22.4 Wheel arch side panel fasteners (A)

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the hinge correctly before tightening the 6 Refit in the reverse order to removal. If
the front bolts before the rear ones to ensure retaining screws. Check that the panel necessary adjust the position of the rear seat
that the seat is located evenly on the floorpan. engages with its retaining catch on striker on completion.
completion.
Rear seat
Cushion
7 Undo the two cushion retaining screws
from the positions indicated (see illustration).
22 Rear wheel arch cover -
removal and refitting 2
23 Body mouldings - removal
and refitting 2
8 Disengage the cushion from the retainer
hooks at the rear then lift out the cushion.
1 Open the tailgate and lift out the luggage Body side mouldings
9 Refit in the reverse order to removal. 1 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise away
compartment floor covers.
Backrest 2 Detach the rear shock absorber upper the moulding insert strip, carefully levering
10 Hinge the rear seat panel forwards then mounting cover. from the lower edge.
unscrew and remove the four rear panel 3 Pivot the seat panel forwards and then 2 The moulding is secured by rivets and
retaining screws. Lift out the panel. remove the seat striker and cover. these can be drilled out using a 3.0 mm drill.
11 Where both rear seat panels and also the 4 Detach the side panel fasteners (see With the rivets drilled through, the moulding
centre hinge are to be removed, first remove illustration), then pull out the panel at the rear can be removed (see illustration).
the panels then mark the outline of the hinge end and detach the interior lamp wiring. 3 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
around its periphery to ensure correct 5 Detach the panel cover at the top edge, procedure, but you will need a pop-rivet gun
realignment when refitting it. Undo the beneath the parcel shelf support, move the and supply of suitable rivets to secure the
retaining bolts and withdraw the hinge. cover rearwards and disconnect it from the moulding. Check its alignment as the
12 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Align quarter panel trim. Lift the panel out of the car. moulding is secured in position.

11

23.2 Body side moulding rivet locations (except XR2)

11•16 Bodywork and fittings

4 Where a new moulding is being fitted you 14 Grip the moulding and pull it free from the
will need to first drill the rivet holes in it. Use car, pulling from its lower edge. The top edge
the old moulding as a suitable template to drill is secured in position by press fit retainers
the holes in the new moulding. and adhesive tape and should just pull free. If
the top edge of the sill is reluctant to separate,
Tailgate aperture mouldings carefully slit the adhesive tape along its length
5 Prise free or drill a hole in and hook out the using a safe-edge razor or similar.
upper moulding retaining screw caps then 15 Clean the old adhesive from the sill panel
undo and remove the screws (see using methylated spirit.
illustration). 16 Before refitting the moulding it will need to
6 The upper moulding is now removed by be heated so that it is warm to the touch, the
carefully cutting through the adhesive tape contact surfaces coated in primer and the
which secures it in position along the front adhesive tape applied.
and rear edges. Use a soft-edge razor blade 23.5 Remove moulding screw cap for 17 Press the moulding into position along its
or similar to slice through the tape. Take care access to screw top edge, ensuring that it is fully secured and
not to cut into the moulding or paintwork. correctly located in the retainers. Press and
10 Before refitting, the mouldings will need to
7 With the tailgate open, prise back the smooth the moulding down to ensure that it
be heated so that they are warm to the touch
quarter trim to gain access to the lower adheres to the sill along the full length.
and the contact surfaces coated in primer,
followed by the adhesive tape. 18 Using a suitable pop-rivet gun, insert pop-
moulding securing nut. Undo and remove the
11 Refitting is otherwise now a reversal of the rivets to secure the panel along its lower
nut (see illustration).
removal procedure. edge, but use only the special plastic capped
8 Gripping the moulding at its top end, pull it
type rivets supplied by Ford.
away from the body panel so that the Sill panel moulding 19 On completion lower the vehicle to the
adhesive bond is broken, and remove the
12 Raise and support the car at the front end ground.
moulding.
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
9 Remove any adhesive tape still remaining 13 Use a 4.5 mm drill and drill out the
on the body panel, wiping it off with a rag moulding-to-sill rivets from the positions
dipped in methylated spirit. indicated (see illustration).

23.7 Tailgate moulding lower retaining nut removal 23.13 Sill panel retaining rivet positions
 Reference REF•1

Dimensions and Weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•1 Tools and Working Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•6

Buying Spare Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3 MOT Test Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•8
Vehicle Identification Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•3 Fault Finding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•12
General Repair Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•4 Glossary of Technical Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•18
Jacking and vehicle support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•5 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•23

Dimensions and Weights

Dimensions Saloons and Van XR2
Overall length:
Without overriders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3648 mm (143.7 in) -
With overriders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3695 mm (145.6 in) 3712 mm (146.3 in)
or 3712 mm (146.3 in)
Overall width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1585 mm (62.4 in) 1620 mm (63.8 in)
Overall height:
Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1334 mm (52.6 in) 1334 mm (52.6 in)
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1316 mm (51.9 in) 1310 mm (51.6 in)
Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2288 mm (90.1 in) 2288 mm (90.1 in)
Track:
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1367 mm (53.9 in) 1385 mm (54.6 in)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1321 mm (52.0 in) 1339 mm (52.8 in)

Weights
Basic kerb weight:
1.0, 1.1 Base, L and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 765.0 kg (1687 lb)
1.1 Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 780.0 kg (1720 lb)
1.1S (option) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 797.5 kg (1758 lb)
1.3 and 1.4 Base, L, Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800.0 kg (1764 lb)
1.3 and 1.4 S (option) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 812.5 kg (1791 lb)
1.6 XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 851.0 kg (1876 lb)
Gross vehicle weight:
1.0 and 1.1 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 kg (2646 lb)
1.3 and 1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1225 kg (2701 lb) REF
1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 kg (2811 lb)
REF•2

Vehicle identification number (VIN) plate

1 Type approval number

2 Vehicle identification number
3 Gross vehicle weight
4 Gross train weight
5 Permitted front axle loading
6 Permitted rear axle loading
7 Steering (LHD/RHD)
8 Engine
9 Gearbox
10 Axle (final drive ratio)
11 Trim (interior)
12 Body type
13 Special territory version
14 Body colour
15 KD reference (usually blank)

Alternative VIN plate location to the rear of the right-hand headlight

 Buying Spare Parts REF•3

Buying spare parts maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel Tyre and exhaust specialists
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils These outlets may be independent, or
Spare parts are available from many
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc). members of a local or national chain. They
sources, including maker’s appointed
Components of this nature sold by a frequently offer competitive prices when
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
reputable shop are of the same standard as compared with a main dealer or local garage,
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
those used by the car manufacturer. but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
Besides components, these shops also sell making a decision. When researching prices,
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along tools and general accessories, usually have also ask what “extras” may be added - for
for positive identification. Items such as convenient opening hours, charge lower instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
starter motors and alternators may be prices, and can often be found not far from wheel are both commonly charged on top of
available under a service exchange scheme - home. Some accessory shops have parts the price of a new tyre.
any parts returned should always be clean. counters where the components needed for Other sources
Our advice regarding spare part sources is almost any repair job can be purchased or
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
as follows. ordered.
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Officially-appointed garages Motor factors Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
This is the best source of parts which are Good factors will stock all the more but there is little chance of compensation if
peculiar to your car, and which are not they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
important components which wear out
otherwise generally available (eg badges, safety-critical components such as brake
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is supply individual components needed for the
also the only place at which you should buy but also of an accident causing injury or death.
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals Second-hand components or assemblies
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons, obtained from a car breaker can be a good
Accessory shops valves, alternator brushes). They may also buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
These are very good places to buy handle work such as cylinder block reboring, purchase is best made by the experienced
materials and components needed for the crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc. DIY mechanic.

Vehicle identification numbers

Modifications are a continuing and The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the exhaust side (see illustrations).
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture, located on the plate found in the engine Other identification numbers or codes are
quite apart from major model changes. Spare compartment either on the bulkhead or on the stamped on major items such as the gearbox,
parts lists are compiled upon a numerical front cross panel directly to the rear of the final drive housing, distributor etc. These
basis, the individual vehicle identification right-hand headlamp unit (see illustrations). numbers are unlikely to be needed by the
numbers being essential to correct identifi- The VIN plate also carries information home mechanic.
cation of the component concerned. concerning paint colour, final drive ratio, etc.
When ordering spare parts, always give as The engine number on OHV variants is
much information as possible. Quote the car located on the exhaust side at the flywheel
model, year of manufacture, body and engine end of the engine. On CVH engines the
numbers, as appropriate. number is located at the timing case end on

Engine number location - OHV engine Engine number location - CVH engine

A Engine number C Engine build date A Engine number C Engine number for REF
B Engine code B Engine code repair reference
REF•4 General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with effectiveness after long periods of use, and
is carried out on the car or its components, its face flush with the housing top face (unless should then be renewed as a matter of course.
observe the following procedures and otherwise instructed). Split pins must always be replaced with
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the new ones of the correct size for the hole.
operation efficiently and to a professional Screw threads and fastenings When thread-locking compound is found
standard of workmanship. Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
common occurrence where corrosion has set used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
Joint mating faces and gaskets in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing brush and solvent, and fresh compound
When separating components at their fluid will often overcome this problem if the applied on reassembly.
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or offending item is soaked for a while before
similar implements into the joint between the attempting to release it. The use of an impact Special tools
faces in order to prise them apart. This can driver may also provide a means of releasing Some repair procedures in this manual
cause severe damage which results in oil such stubborn fastening devices, when used entail the use of special tools such as a press,
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly. in conjunction with the appropriate two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
Separation is usually achieved by tapping screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in methods works, it may be necessary to resort readily-available alternatives to the manu-
order to break the seal. However, note that to the careful application of heat, or the use of facturer’s special tools are described, and are
this method may not be suitable where a hacksaw or nut splitter device. shown in use. In some instances, where no
dowels are used for component location. Studs are usually removed by locking two alternative is possible, it has been necessary
Where a gasket is used between the mating nuts together on the threaded part, and then to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
faces of two components, a new one must be using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew and this has been done for reasons of safety
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off as well as the efficient completion of the repair
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that below the surface of the component in which operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all they are mounted can sometimes be removed have a thorough understanding of the
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a procedures described, never attempt to
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score blind tapped hole is completely free from oil, bypass the use of any special tool when the
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or grease, water or other fluid before installing procedure described specifies its use. Not
nicks with an oilstone or fine file. the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause only is there a very great risk of personal
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned the housing to crack due to the hydraulic injury, but expensive damage could be
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. caused to the components involved.
jointing compound, if this is being used, When tightening a castellated nut to accept
unless specifically instructed otherwise. a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified Environmental considerations
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes torque, where applicable, and then tighten When disposing of used engine oil, brake
are clear, and blow through them, preferably further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
using compressed air. the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
in the repair procedure. for instance, pour any of the above liquids
Oil seals When checking or retightening a nut or bolt down drains into the general sewage system,
Oil seals can be removed by levering them to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of retighten to the specified setting. However, oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the this should not be attempted where angular these facilities are available, consult your local
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or tightening has been used. Environmental Health Department, or the
some similar device in order to pull the seal free. For some screw fastenings, notably National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench With the universal tightening-up of legis-
working location, either individually or as part settings are no longer specified for the latter lation regarding the emission of environmen-
of an assembly, it should be renewed. stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it wrench setting will be applied to the to the main adjustment points of the fuel
contacts is not completely clean and free from bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed system. These devices are primarily designed
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original by one or more stages of tightening through to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
sealing surface of the component cannot be specified angles. the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
restored, and the manufacturer has not made consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
provision for slight relocation of the seal Locknuts, locktabs and washers such devices are found during servicing or
relative to the sealing surface, the component Any fastening which will rotate against a overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
should be renewed. component or housing during tightening renewed or refitted in accordance with the
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface should always have a washer between it and manufacturer’s requirements or current
which may damage them in the course of the relevant component or housing. legislation.
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where Spring or split washers should always be
Note: It is
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before renewed when they are used to lock a critical
antisocial and
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space component such as a big-end bearing
between the lips with grease. retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are illegal to dump
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be folded over to retain a nut or bolt should oil down the
fitted with their sealing lips toward the always be renewed. drain. To find
lubricant to be sealed. Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non- the location of
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the critical areas, providing resistance can be felt your local oil
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the when the locking portion passes over the bolt recycling
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal or stud thread. However, it should be noted bank, call this
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their number free.
 Jacking and Vehicle Support REF•5

The jack provided with the vehicle is When using the jack supplied with the face to accommodate the axle beam. The
designed primarily for emergency wheel vehicle, the jacking point on each side of the block is then fitted between the jack head and
changing, and its use for servicing and car is centrally positioned beneath the door the axle beam.
overhaul work on the vehicle is best avoided sill. Check that the jack is fully engaged If raising the vehicle completely, raise the
(see “Wheel changing”). Instead, a more before raising the vehicle. rear end first. Axle stands must only be
substantial workshop jack (trolley jack or When using a trolley or other type of located under double-skinned side or chassis
similar) should be used. Whichever type is workshop jack, it can be located beneath the members (see illustrations).
employed, it is essential that additional safety longitudinal engine/transmission support If removal of the wheels is not required, the
support is provided by means of axle stands member at the front or under the axle beam at use of drive-on ramps is recommended.
designed for this purpose. Never use the rear (see illustration). In the latter case, Caution should be exercised to ensure that
makeshift means such as wooden blocks or care must be taken not to damage the they are correctly aligned with the wheels, and
piles of house bricks, as these can easily Panhard rod; to prevent this, it is advisable to that the vehicle is not driven too far along
topple or, in the case of bricks, disintegrate make up a suitable distance block them so that it promptly falls off the other
under the weight of the vehicle. incorporating a V-shaped cut-out in its top ends, or tips the ramps.

Jacking and support locations on underside of vehicle

A, B and C* Support locations only
D Front jacking location (except XR2)
E Front jacking location for XR2 only
F Side jacking locations
G Rear jacking location
*Note: At location “C” it is important that the vehicle is only supported
on the double skinned portion of the longitudinal member (see tinted
area on “C”)

Axle stand location points at front of vehicle Axle stand location at rear must be forward of trailing arm (A), not REF
A Body sill B Chassis runner under it (B)
REF•6 Tools and Working Facilities
Introduction Maintenance Repair and overhaul tool kit
A selection of good tools is a fundamental and minor repair tool kit These tools are virtually essential for
requirement for anyone contemplating the The tools given in this list should be anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. considered as a minimum requirement if motor vehicle, and are additional to those
For the owner who does not possess any, routine maintenance, servicing and minor given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.
their purchase will prove a considerable repair operations are to be undertaken. We Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
expense, offsetting some of the savings made recommend the purchase of combination sockets. Although these are expensive, they
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that spanners (ring one end, open-ended the will be found invaluable as they are so
the tools purchased meet the relevant national other); although more expensive than open- versatile - particularly if various drives are
safety standards and are of good quality, they ended ones, they do give the advantages of included in the set. We recommend the half-
will last for many years and prove an both types of spanner. inch square-drive type, as this can be used
extremely worthwhile investment. M Combination spanners: with most proprietary torque wrenches.
To help the average owner to decide which Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive The tools in this list will sometimes need to
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks M Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.) be supplemented by tools from the Special list:
detailed in this manual, we have compiled M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) - M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
three lists of tools under the following petrol models previous list (including Torx sockets)
headings: Maintenance and minor repair, M Spark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers models sockets)
to practical mechanics should start off with M Set of feeler gauges M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and M Brake bleed nipple spanner sockets)
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around M Screwdrivers: M Universal joint (for use with sockets)
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia M Self-locking grips
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased M Combination pliers M Ball pein hammer
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a M Hacksaw (junior) M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be M Tyre pump rubber)
built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over M Tyre pressure gauge M Screwdrivers:
a considerable period of time, without any M Oil can Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it- M Oil filter removal tool and narrow (electrician’s) types
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for M Fine emery cloth Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will M Wire brush (small) (chubby) types
add tools from the Special category when it is M Funnel (medium size) M Pliers:
felt that the expense is justified by the amount Long-nosed
of use to which these tools will be put. Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
M Cold chisel - 25 mm
M Scriber
M Scraper
M Centre-punch
M Pin punch
M Hacksaw
M Brake hose clamp
M Brake/clutch bleeding kit
M Selection of twist drills
M Steel rule/straight-edge
M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)
M Selection of files
M Wire brush
M Axle stands
M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
Sockets and reversible ratchet drive Valve spring compressor M Light with extension lead

Spline bit set Piston ring compressor Clutch plate alignment set
 Tools and Working Facilities REF•7

Special tools Buying tools Working facilities

The tools in this list are those which are not Reputable motor accessory shops and Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which superstores often offer excellent quality tools is the workshop itself. If anything more than
need to be used in accordance with their at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. routine maintenance is to be carried out, a
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively Remember, you don’t have to buy the most suitable working area becomes essential.
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken expensive items on the shelf, but it is always It is appreciated that many an owner-
frequently, it will not be economic to buy advisable to steer clear of the very cheap mechanic is forced by circumstances to
many of these tools. Where this is the case, tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on market remove an engine or similar item without the
you could consider clubbing together with stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a good tools around at reasonable prices, but this, any repairs should always be done under
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against always aim to purchase items which meet the the cover of a roof.
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, Wherever possible, any dismantling should
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
larger DIY superstores now carry a large advice before making a purchase. a suitable working height.
range of special tools for hire at modest rates. Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw
The following list contains only those tools Care and maintenance of tools opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
and instruments freely available to the public, Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is As mentioned previously, some clean dry
and not those special tools produced by the necessary to keep the tools in a clean and storage space is also required for tools, as well
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer serviceable condition. After use, always wipe as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
network. You will find occasional references off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a paints etc, which become necessary.
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Another item which may be required, and
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative Never leave them lying around after they have which has a much more general usage, is an
method of doing the job without the vehicle been used. A simple tool rack on the garage electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, or workshop wall for items such as mm. This, together with a good range of twist
sometimes there is no alternative to using screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store drills, is virtually essential for fitting
them. Where this is the case and the relevant all normal spanners and sockets in a metal accessories.
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
have to entrust the work to a dealer. meters, etc, must be carefully stored where old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
M Valve spring compressor they cannot be damaged or become rusty. available, and try to keep any working area as
M Valve grinding tool Take a little care when tools are used. clean as possible.
M Piston ring compressor Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
M Piston ring removal/installation tool and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
M Cylinder bore hone blades from time to time. A little timely
M Balljoint separator attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
M Coil spring compressors (where applicable) restore items like this to a good finish.
M Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller
M Impact screwdriver
M Micrometer and/or vernier calipers
M Dial gauge
M Stroboscopic timing light
M Dwell angle meter/tachometer
M Universal electrical multi-meter
M Cylinder compression gauge
M Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
M Clutch plate alignment set
M Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
M Bush and bearing removal/installation set
M Stud extractors
M Tap and die set
M Lifting tackle
M Trolley jack Micrometer set Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)

Stroboscopic timing light Compression tester Stud extractor set REF

REF•8 MOT Test Checks
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

1 Checks carried out

FROM THE DRIVER’S
2 Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
3 Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
4 Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
SEAT ON THE GROUND RAISED AND THE EXHAUST EMISSION
WHEELS FREE TO SYSTEM
TURN

1 Checks carried out

FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

Handbrake
M Test the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
M Check that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.

M Check that the brake pedal is secure and in movement of the steering wheel, indicating
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid wear in the column support bearings or
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which couplings.
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder. Windscreen and mirrors
M Check the servo unit (when applicable) by
M The windscreen must be free of cracks or
operating the brake pedal several times, then
other significant damage within the driver’s
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
field of view. (Small stone chips are
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
the servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column

Footbrake
M Examine the steering wheel for fractures or
M Depress the brake pedal and check that it looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a M Move the steering wheel from side to side
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait and then up and down. Check that the
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the steering wheel is not loose on the column,
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is but also turn it slightly from left to right.
air in the hydraulic system which must be M Check that the steering wheel is not loose
removed by bleeding. on the column, and that there is no abnormal
 MOT Test Checks REF•9

Electrical equipment M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for

cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
M Switch on the ignition and check the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
operation of the horn.
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
or perished blades. Also check the operation
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
of the stop-lights.

Seat belts and seats

Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
M Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible M Check the operation of the sidelights and
from inside the vehicle. number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors Steering and suspension
M The front seats themselves must be must be secure, clean and undamaged.
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
securely attached and the backrests must M Check the operation and alignment of the
lock in the upright position. from side to side slightly, up to the point where
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
be tarnished and the lenses must be
Doors movement to the roadwheels. Check for
undamaged.
M Both front doors must be able to be opened excessive free play between the steering
M Switch on the ignition and check the
and closed from outside and inside, and must wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
operation of the direction indicators (including
latch securely when closed. insecurity of the steering column joints, the
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
steering gear itself.
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
2 Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
GROUND examine all the steering joints, linkages,
including the warning light on the instrument
fittings and attachments. Renew any
panel or in the switch.
Vehicle identification component that shows signs of wear or
Footbrake damage. On vehicles with power steering,
M Number plates must be in good condition, check the security and condition of the
secure and legible, with letters and numbers M Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
M Check that the vehicle is standing level,
twice that at (B). corrosion or other damage.
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
M Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

M The fluid reservoir must be secure and the

M The VIN plate and/or homologation plate fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
must be legible. lower (B) markings.

REF
REF•10 MOT Test Checks
Exhaust system Front and rear suspension and M The same general checks apply to vehicles
wheel bearings fitted with other suspension types, such as
M Start the engine. With your assistant
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the M Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
leaking sections. positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
pipes.
ings, pivots and attachments.
M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of
M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
to the body of the unit.
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing. Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.

3 Checks carried out

WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
M If excess free play is suspected at a
and securely support it on axle stands.
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
Position the stands clear of the suspension
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
levering between the mounting and the
clear of the ground and that the steering
component attachment. This will confirm
can be turned from lock to lock.
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its Braking system
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
Steering mechanism M If possible without dismantling, check
holes can often become elongated).
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
M Have your assistant turn the steering from that the friction lining material has not worn
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
smoothly, and that no part of the steering fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
M Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
M Carry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers M Examine all the rigid brake pipes
M Examine the suspension struts (when underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion, hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or damage to the casing. Also check the or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
security of the mounting points. bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
M If coil springs are fitted, check that the deterioration of the flexible hoses.
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken. calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
M If leaf springs are fitted, check that all renew leaking components.
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely M Slowly spin each wheel, while your
attached to each spring, and that there is no assistant depresses and releases the
deterioration of the spring eye mountings, footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
bushes, and shackles. and does not bind when the pedal is released.
 MOT Test Checks REF•11

the engine speed to return to idle, and watch

for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
M An exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
M Examine the handbrake mechanism, properly seated, and that the wheel is not instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
checking for frayed or broken cables, distorted or damaged. local garage may agree to perform the check
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of M Check that the tyres are of the correct size for a small fee.
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully, and type on each axle, and that the pressures
CO emissions (mixture)
without binding. are correct. M At the time of writing, the maximum CO
M It is not possible to test brake efficiency M Check the tyre tread depth. The legal level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
without special equipment, but a road test can minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
be carried out later to check that the vehicle at least three-quarters of the tread width. From January 1996 a much tighter limit
pulls up in a straight line. Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect (around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
front wheel alignment. vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
Fuel and exhaust systems CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
M Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler Body corrosion pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All M Check the condition of the entire vehicle systems are otherwise in good condition) then
components must be secure and free from structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
leaks. areas. (These include chassis box sections, problem in the fuel injection system or
M Examine the exhaust system over its entire side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all catalytic converter (as applicable).
length, checking for any damaged, broken or suspension, steering, braking system and
missing mountings, security of the retaining
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any HC emissions
clamps and rust or corrosion. M With the CO emissions within limits, HC
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
M Damage or corrosion which causes sharp
counts as a pass.
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
M Excessive HC emissions can be caused by
will also cause the vehicle to fail. oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.

4 Checks carried out on

YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
Diesel models
M The only emission test applicable to Diesel
EMISSION SYSTEM engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
Petrol models
unloaded speed.
Wheels and tyres M Have the engine at normal operating
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
M Examine the sidewalls and tread area of temperature, and make sure that it is in good
engine timing belt is in good condition before
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps, tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
the test is carried out.
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure element clean, etc).
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage. M Before any measurements are carried out, M Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm, air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow advice may be needed to find the cause.

REF
REF•12 Fault Finding
Engine Gearbox
M Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start M Noisy in neutral with engine running
M Starter motor turns engine slowly M Noisy in one particular gear
M Engine rotates, but will not start M Difficulty engaging gears
M Engine difficult to start when cold M Jumps out of gear
M Vibration
M Engine difficult to start when hot
M Lubricant leaks
M Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
M Engine starts, but stops immediately Driveshafts
M Engine idles erratically M Clunking or knocking noise on turns
M Engine misfires at idle speed M Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
M Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
Braking system
M Engine hesitates on acceleration
M Engine stalls M Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
M Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
M Engine lacks power
M Excessive brake pedal travel
M Engine backfires
M Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
M Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running M Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
M Engine runs-on after switching off M Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
M Engine noises M Brakes binding
M Rear wheels locking under normal braking
Cooling system
M Overheating Steering and Suspension
M Overcooling M Vehicle pulls to one side
M External coolant leakage M Wheel wobble and vibration
M Internal coolant leakage M Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during braking
M Corrosion M Wandering or general instability
M Excessively-stiff steering
Fuel and exhaust systems M Excessive play in steering
M Tyre wear excessive
M Excessive fuel consumption
M Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour Electrical system
M Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system M Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
M Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
Clutch
running
M Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance M Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
M Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears) M Lights inoperative
M Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle M Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
speed) M Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
M Judder as clutch is engaged M Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
M Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal operation
M Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation

Introduction
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or The pages which follow provide an easy-reference guide to the more
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. common problems which may occur during the operation of the
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the
thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail
problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic
without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
principles apply. These are as follows:
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault not have described it very accurately.
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more there fuel in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test gear.
 Fault Finding REF•13

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a
fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the “new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling
underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a
way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently-fitted.
you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realise
wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established that all the evidence was there from the start.
and corrected.

Engine
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start Engine idles erratically
M Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1). M Carburettor stepper motor plunger dirty (where fitted).
M Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5C). M Incorrectly-adjusted idle speed (Chapter 4).
M Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit M Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
(Chapter 5C). M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
M Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5C). hoses (Chapter 4).
M Defective starter motor (Chapter 5C). M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A
M Starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or or B).
broken (Chapters 2 or 5). M Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
M Engine earth strap broken or disconnected. M Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2B).

Starter motor turns engine slowly Engine misfires at idle speed

M Partially-discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A
start) (Chapter 5C). or B).
M Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1). M Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5A or B).
M Battery earth to body defective (Chapter 5C). M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
M Engine earth strap loose. hoses (Chapter 4).
M Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose (Chapter 5C). M Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable
M Starter motor internal fault (Chapter 5C). (Chapter 5A or B).
M Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
Engine rotates, but will not start M Disconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
M Fuel pump defective (Chapter 4). (Chapter 4).
M Fuel tank empty.
M Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5C).
Engine misfires throughout the driving speed
range
M Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
M Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5). M Fuel filter choked (where fitted).
M Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit M Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
(Chapters 1 and 5A or B). M Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
or B). hoses (Chapter 4).
M Major mechanical failure (eg broken timing chain) (Chapter 2). M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A
or B).
Engine difficult to start when cold M Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5A or B).
M Battery discharged (Chapter 5C). M Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable
M Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1). (Chapter 5A or B).
M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A M Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5B).
or B). M Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
M Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5A or B). Engine hesitates on acceleration
M Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A
Engine difficult to start when hot or B).
M Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1). M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
M Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2). hoses (Chapter 4).

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in Engine stalls

engagement M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
M Starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or hoses (Chapter 4).
broken (Chapters 2 or 5). M Fuel filter choked (where fitted).
M Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5C). M Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
M Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5C). M Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).

Engine starts, but stops immediately Engine lacks power

M Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit M Fuel filter choked (where fitted).
(Chapters 1 and 5A or B). M Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
M Vacuum leak at the throttle body or inlet manifold (Chapter 4). M Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A REF
or B).
REF•14 Fault Finding
Engine lacks power (continued) Engine noises
M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
hoses (Chapter 4). under load
M Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).
M Clutch slipping (Chapter 6). M Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5A
or B).
Engine backfires M Incorrect grade of spark plug (Chapters 1 and 5A or B).
M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated M Incorrect grade of fuel.
hoses (Chapter 4). M Vacuum leak at throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine M Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
running Whistling or wheezing noises
M Low oil level, or incorrect oil grade (“Weekly checks”). M Leaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4).
M Faulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 2). M Leaking exhaust manifold gasket (Chapter 4).
M Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2). M Leaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4 and 9).
M Excessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3). M Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
M Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2).
M Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2). Tapping or rattling noises
Note: Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not M Worn valve gear, timing chain or camshaft (Chapter 2).
necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far M Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters
more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender 3, 5C, etc).
before condemning the engine. Knocking or thumping noises
Engine runs-on after switching off M Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less
M Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2). under load) (Chapter 2).
M Excessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3). M Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load) (Chapter 2).
M Piston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2).
M Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters
3, 5C, etc).

Cooling system
Overheating External coolant leakage
M Auxiliary drivebelt broken or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). M Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapters 1 and 3).
M Insufficient coolant in system (“Weekly checks”). M Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).
M Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). M Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
M Radiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3). M Water pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3).
M Water pump-to-block seal leaking (Chapter 3).
M Electric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty (Chapter 3).
M Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).
M Ignition timing incorrect, or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and M Core plug leaking (Chapter 2).
5A or B).
M Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3). Internal coolant leakage
M Airlock in cooling system (Chapter 3). M Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
M Cracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter 2).
Overcooling
M Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
Corrosion
M Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3). M Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
M Incorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (“Weekly
checks”).

Fuel and exhaust systems

Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
M Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1). M Damaged fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapters 1 and 4).
M Ignition timing incorrect or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and
5A or B). Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
M Brakes binding (Chapter 9). M Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4).
M Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly checks”). M Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1 and 4).
M Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 4).
 Fault Finding REF•15

Clutch
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little M Clutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease
resistance (Chapter 6).
M Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).
M Badly stretched or broken cable (Chapter 6).
M Stripped pawl on pedal (Chapter 6). Judder as clutch is engaged
M Broken clutch release bearing or arm (Chapter 6).
M Clutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease
M Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).
(Chapter 6).
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears) M Clutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).
M Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).
M Cable free play excessive (Chapter 6).
M Worn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2).
M Clutch driven plate sticking on gearbox input shaft splines
M Clutch driven plate hub or gearbox input shaft splines worn
(Chapter 6).
(Chapter 6).
M Clutch driven plate sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).
M Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6). Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
M Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 6).
M Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no M Worn or dry clutch pedal pivot (Chapter 6).
increase in vehicle speed) M Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).
M Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).
M Clutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).
M Broken clutch driven plate cushioning springs (Chapter 6).

Gearbox
Noisy in neutral with engine running Jumps out of gear
M Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal M Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7).
released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7).* M Worn synchroniser units*
M Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal M Worn selector forks*
depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).
Vibration
Noisy in one particular gear M Lack of oil (Chapter 1).
M Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7).* M Worn bearings (Chapter 7).*
Difficulty engaging gears Lubricant leaks
M Clutch fault (Chapter 6). M Leaking oil seal (Chapter 7).
M Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7). M Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7).*
M Worn synchroniser units* *Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, so
that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.

Driveshafts
Clunking or knocking noise on turns (at slow Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
speed on full lock) M Worn inboard joint (Chapter 8).
M Worn outer constant velocity (CV) joints (Chapter 8). M Bent or distorted shaft (Chapter 8).
M Lack of CV joint lubrication, possibly due to damaged gaiter
(Chapter 8).

REF
REF•16 Fault Finding
Braking system
Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the M Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 9).
tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel M Master cylinder mountings loose (Chapter 9).
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an M Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking system Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop
should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis. vehicle
M Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
M Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
M Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake (Chapters 1 and 9).
pads on one side (Chapters 1 and 9). M Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).
M Seized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston M Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).
(Chapter 9). M Brake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 9).
M A mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
M Incorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 9).
(Chapter 9).
M Brake pads contaminated (Chapter 9).
M Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
M Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapters Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
1 and 10). when braking
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when M Excessive run-out or distortion of brake disc(s) (Chapter 9).
brakes applied M Brake pad linings worn (Chapters 1 and 9).
M Brake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing M Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
(Chapters 1 and 9). M Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings
M Excessive corrosion of brake disc - may be apparent after the (Chapters 1 and 10).
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 9). Brakes binding
Excessive brake pedal travel M Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).
M Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9). M Incorrectly-adjusted handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).
M Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9). M Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
M Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).
Rear wheels locking under normal braking
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed M Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).
M Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9). M Faulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 9).

Steering and suspension

Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that the Wandering or general instability
trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, or M Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
binding brakes. M Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
Vehicle pulls to one side (Chapters 1 and 10).
M Roadwheels out of balance (Chapter 10).
M Defective tyre (“Weekly checks”). M Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly checks”).
M Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapters 1 M Wheel bolts loose (Chapter 10).
and 10). M Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).
M Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
M Accident damage to steering or suspension components Excessively-stiff steering
(Chapters 1 and 10). M Lack of steering gear lubricant (Chapter 10).
M Seized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapters 1
Wheel wobble and vibration and 10).
M Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the M Broken or incorrectly adjusted auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).
steering wheel) (Chapter 10). M Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
M Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the M Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).
vehicle) (Chapter 10).
M Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapter 10).
Excessive play in steering
M Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly checks”). M Worn steering column universal joint(s) (Chapter 10).
M Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components M Worn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10).
(Chapters 1 and 10). M Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).
M Wheel bolts loose (Chapter 10). M Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 10).
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners,
or during braking Tyre wear excessive
M Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10). Tyres worn on inside or outside edges
M Broken or weak coil spring and/or suspension component M Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (“Weekly checks”).
(Chapters 1 and 10). M Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only)
M Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 10). (Chapter 10).
 Fault Finding REF•17

M Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components Tyres worn on inside and outside edges
(Chapters 1 and 10). M Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly checks”).
M Excessively-hard cornering. M Worn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).
M Accident damage.
Tyres worn unevenly
Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges
M Tyres out of balance (“Weekly checks”).
M Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10). M Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (“Weekly checks”).
Tyres worn in centre of tread M Worn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).
M Tyres over-inflated (“Weekly checks”). M Faulty tyre (“Weekly checks”).

Electrical system
Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.
Horn operates all the time
Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few M Horn contacts permanently bridged or horn push stuck down
days (Chapter 12).
M Battery defective internally (Chapter 5C).
Horn fails to operate
M Battery electrolyte level low - where applicable (“Weekly checks”).
M Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1). M Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
M Auxiliary drivebelt worn - or incorrectly adjusted, where applicable M Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 1). (Chapter 12).
M Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5C). M Faulty horn (Chapter 12).
M Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5C). Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
M Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5C and 12). M Cable connections loose (Chapter 12).
Ignition/no-charge warning light remains M Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).
illuminated with engine running M Faulty horn (Chapter 12).
M Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsat-
M Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5C). isfactory in operation
M Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5C).
M Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5C). Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
M Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit M Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding
(Chapter 5C). (Chapters 1 and 12).
M Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on M Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
M Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12). (Chapter 12).
M Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit M Faulty relay (Chapter 12).
(Chapter 12). M Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).
M Alternator faulty (Chapter 5C). Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
Lights inoperative the glass
M Bulb blown (Chapter 12). M Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).
M Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12). M Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12).
M Blown fuse (Chapter 12). M Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).
M Faulty relay (Chapter 12). Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
M Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12). M Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (“Weekly checks”).
M Faulty switch (Chapter 12). M Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 12).
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic M Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove
road film (“Weekly checks”).
Instrument readings increase with engine speed
Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or
M Faulty voltage regulator (Chapter 12).
unsatisfactory in operation
Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
One or more washer jets inoperative
M Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapter 4).
M Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12). M Blocked washer jet (Chapter 12).
M Faulty gauge (Chapter 12). M Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12).
M Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (“Weekly checks”).
Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum
reading Washer pump fails to operate
M Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapter 4). M Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
M Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12). M Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
M Faulty gauge (Chapter 12). M Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12).
M Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).
Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
M Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).
REF
REF•18 Glossary of Technical Terms
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
A passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
ABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system, Anti-seize compound A coating that permits relative motion between them with
usually electronically controlled, that senses reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that minimum wear and friction.
incipient wheel lockup during braking and are subjected to high temperatures, such as Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are exhaust manifold bolts and nuts. the connecting rod that’s attached to the
about to skid. crankshaft.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheel
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the of air. Also called a bleed screw.
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine. Anti-seize compound
Air filter element The actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with great
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular heat resistance, commonly used in the
intervals. composition of brake friction materials.
Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
Brake bleeding
live axle.
Brake bleeding Procedure for removing air
Air filter from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake disc The component of a disc brake
Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into that rotates with the wheels.
a recessed hexagonal hole. Brake drum The component of a drum brake
Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loaded that rotates with the wheels.
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make Brake linings The friction material which
temporary electrical connections. contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
Alternator A component in the electrical vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
system which converts mechanical energy riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to Brake pads The replaceable friction pads
charge the battery and to operate the starting that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
Axle assembly
system, ignition system and electrical applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
accessories. Axleshaft A single rotating shaft, on either material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
side of the differential, which delivers power plate.
from the final drive assembly to the drive Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier to
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft. which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systems For more information on

Alternator (exploded view)

B braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Ball bearing An anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race Breaker bar A long socket wrench handle
Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the with hardened steel balls between two races. providing greater leverage.
flow of electric current. One amp is the Bulkhead The insulated partition between
amount of current produced by one volt the engine and the passenger compartment.
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealer A substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
C
Caliper The non-rotating part of a disc-brake
widely used. assembly that straddles the disc and carries
Antifreeze A substance (usually ethylene the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a hydraulic components that cause the pads to
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
the formation of rust and other deposits that Bearing object.
 Glossary of Technical Terms REF•19

Camshaft A rotating shaft on which a series Catalytic converter A silencer-like device in Crocodile clip See Alligator clip
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms. the exhaust system which converts certain
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a harmful substances.
belt.
Canister A container in an evaporative
D
Diagnostic code Code numbers obtained by
emission control system; contains activated accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the management computer. This code can be
fuel system. used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brake A brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Catalytic converter
Drivebelt(s) The belt(s) used to drive
Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent accessories such as the alternator, water
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
Canister
such as a shaft.
Carburettor A device which mixes fuel with Clearance The amount of space between
air in the proper proportions to provide a two parts. For example, between a piston and
desired power output from a spark ignition a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
internal combustion engine. etc.
Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
Compression Reduction in volume, and Accessory drivebelts
increase in pressure and temperature, of a Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmit
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller motion. Commonly used when referring to the
space. axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Compression ratio The relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) joint A type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
Carburettor caused by driving power being transmitted Driveshaft
Castellated Resembling the parapets along through an angle.
the top of a castle wall. For example, a Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal device Drum brake A type of brake using a drum-
castellated balljoint stud nut. inserted in a hole in a casting through which shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
core was removed when the casting was surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
expansion plug. linings press against the inside of the drum to
Crankcase The lower part of the engine slow or stop the vehicle.
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
Crankshaft The main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.

Castellated nut

Castor In wheel alignment, the backward or

forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.
Crankshaft assembly Drum brake assembly REF
REF•20 Glossary of Technical Terms
Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardened
E steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
EGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaust check or measure clearances between parts. breaker assembly in a conventional points-
gases into the intake air stream. type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.

EGR valve

Electronic control unit (ECU) A computer

which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel Feeler blade
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking Firing order The order in which the engine
system. For more information refer to the cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic beginning with the number one cylinder.
Systems Manual. Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computer energy is absorbed and stored by means of
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached Gasket
through an injector located in each intake port to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
of the engine. impulses. Gauge An instrument panel display used to
Emergency brake A braking system, Free play The amount of travel before any monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
independent of the main hydraulic system, action takes place. The “looseness” in a movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle initial application of force and actual readout is called a digital gauge.
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t movement. For example, the distance the
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
that actuates either front or rear brakes master cylinder are actuated.
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
Fuse An electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
H
Halfshaft A rotating shaft that transmits
parking brake. fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is power from the final drive unit to a drive
Endfloat The amount of lengthwise calibrated to melt at a predetermined current wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
movement between two parts. As applied to a flow (expressed as amps) and break the axle.
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft circuit. Harmonic balancer A device designed to
can move forward and back in the cylinder Fusible link A circuit protection device reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
block. consisting of a conductor surrounded by crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
Engine management system (EMS) A heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
computer controlled system which manages smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as damper.
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown Hone An abrasive tool for correcting small
an integrated fashion. fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be irregularities or differences in diameter in an
Exhaust manifold A part with several cut from the wire for replacement. engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
passages through which exhaust gases leave
Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utilises
the engine combustion chambers and enter
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
the exhaust pipe.
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
G (constant contact with both camshaft and
Gap The distance the spark must travel in valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
jumping from the centre electrode to the side in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.

I
Ignition timing The moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
Exhaust manifold number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifold A tube or housing with
F passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
Fan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive coupling
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
device which permits variable engine fan
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
speeds in relation to engine speeds. Adjusting spark plug gap cylinder head.
 Glossary of Technical Terms REF•21

the ozone in the upper atmosphere.

J Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaft
Jump start Starting the engine of a vehicle head(s). or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
with a discharged or weak battery by Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to the valves located in the cylinder head, but movement of the pushrod into a downward
a charged or helper battery. with the camshaft located in the engine block. movement to open a valve.
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the inside the cap that connects the centre
L oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) A called a Lambda sensor. secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
brake hydraulic system control valve that Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
works like a proportioning valve, but also inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
takes into consideration the amount of weight of a turbocharger, including the compressor
carried by the rear axle.
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment
P wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out
Phillips screw A type of screw head having a
nut, or other threaded component, in place. movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
For example, a locknut is employed to keep The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
type of screwdriver.
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,
position.
available in different sizes, used for measuring
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the S
crushed strip indicates the clearance between Sealant A liquid or paste used to prevent
M journal and bearing. leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
MacPherson strut A type of front
suspension system devised by Earle Sealed beam lamp An older headlight design
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original which integrates the reflector, lens and
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
mounted between the body and the steering Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location. instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Plastigage Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
Multimeter An electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and an automatic tensioner.
resistance. Propeller shaft The long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
N Proportioning valve A hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
NOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
at higher temperatures. wheel lock-up.

O R Serpentine drivebelt
Ohm The unit of electrical resistance. One Rack-and-pinion steering A steering system
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
produce a current of one amp. shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust
Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring wheel opened up and laid flat). When the the clearance or relative positions between
electrical resistance. steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns, two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
O-ring A type of sealing ring made of a moving the rack to the left or right. This under bucket tappets control valve
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring movement is transmitted through the track clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
is compressed into a groove to provide the rods to the steering arms at the wheels. changing the thickness of the shim.
sealing action. Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device Slide hammer A special puller that screws
designed to reduce the temperature of the into or hooks onto a component such as a
coolant in an internal combustion engine shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
cooling system. shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat knock the component free.
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system. Sprocket A tooth or projection on the
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
many years; recently, however, manufacturers chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC the sprocket wheel itself.
O-ring substance that is considered less harmful to Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an REF
REF•22 Glossary of Technical Terms
automatic transmission, a switch that front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of obstructs one or more ports or passageways.
prevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutral toe-out is usually specified. A valve is also the movable part of such a
or Park. Tools For full information on choosing and device.
Strut See MacPherson strut. using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive Valve clearance The clearance between the
Tools Manual. valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied to rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is
a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from measured when the valve is closed.
T another one with the same colour insulator.
Tune-up A process of accurate and careful
Vernier caliper A precision measuring
instrument that measures inside and outside
Tappet A cylindrical component which
transmits motion from the cam to the valve adjustments and parts replacement to obtain dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
stem, either directly or via a pushrod and the best possible engine performance. micrometer, but more convenient.
rocker arm. Also called a cam follower. Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its
Thermostat A heat-controlled valve that exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air. resistance to flow.
regulates the flow of coolant between the Normally used to increase the power output Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure”
cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining from a given engine displacement, but can in a circuit. One volt that will produce a current
optimum engine operating temperature. A also be used primarily to reduce exhaust of one ampere through a resistance of one
thermostat is also used in some air cleaners in emissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Diesel ohm.
which the temperature is regulated. engine).
Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutch
assembly that is moved in to the release levers
by clutch pedal action to disengage the W
clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing. U Welding Various processes used to join metal
Timing belt A toothed belt which drives the Universal joint or U-joint A double-pivoted items by heating the areas to be joined to a
camshaft. Serious engine damage may result connection for transmitting power from a molten state and fusing them together. For
if it breaks in service. driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A U- more information refer to the Haynes
Timing chain A chain which drives the joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a Automotive Welding Manual.
camshaft. cross-shaped member called the spider. Wiring diagram A drawing portraying the
Toe-in The amount the front wheels are components and wires in a vehicle’s electrical
closer together at the front than at the rear. On system, using standardised symbols. For
rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of more information refer to the Haynes
toe-in is usually specified to keep the front
wheels running parallel on the road by
V Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.
Valve A device through which the flow of
offsetting other forces that tend to spread the liquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulk
wheels apart. may be started, stopped, or regulated by a
Toe-out The amount the front wheels are movable part that opens, shuts, or partially
closer together at the rear than at the front. On
 Index REF•23

Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number”•“page number”

A
Accelerator
C
Cables
D
Dents - 11•2
cable - 4•4 accelerator - 4•4 Dimensions and weights - REF•1
pedal - 4•5 choke - 4•5 Disc pads, front - 9•3
Aerial - 12•15 clutch - 6•3 Discs, front brake - 9•4
Air filter and cleaner - 1•2, 1•17, 4•3 handbrake - 9•9 Distributor cap - 1•11
Alternator - 5C•4 speedometer - 12•11 Distributor - 5A•2
throttle - 4•4 Doors - 11•6
Anti-roll bars - 10•11
Caliper piston, front - 9•3 Driveshafts - 8•1 et seq
Antifreeze - 0•12, 0•16, 1•1, 1•18
Camshaft - 2B•7, 2B•14 fault finding - REF•12, REF•15
Auxiliary drivebelt check - 1•14
Camshaft oil seal - 2B•7 intermediate - 8•4
Carburettor - 1•8, 4•1, 4•6
B
Battery - 0•7, 0•14, 1•12, 5C•2
Carpets - 11•2
Choke cable - 4•5
joint bellows - 8•3
joints - 8•2
oil seal - 8•2
Bearings Cigar lighter - 12•5 overhaul - 8•6
engine - 2A•11, 2B•13 Clock - 12•5 removal and refitting - 8•5
front hub (wheel) - 10•5 Clutch - 6•1 et seq Driving lamps - 12•9
cable - 6•3 Drums, rear brake - 9•5, 9•7
rear hub (wheel) - 10•9
fault finding - REF•12, REF•15
Blower motor - 3•5
Body damage - 11•2
Body mouldings - 11•15
pedal - 6•3
release bearing - 6•2 E
Earth fault - 12•3
removal and refitting - 6•1
Body electrical systems - 12•1 et seq Electrical system fault finding - 12•2, REF•12,
Coil springs - 10•11
Bodywork maintenance - 11•1 Condenser - 5A•3 REF•17
Bodywork and fittings - 11•1 et seq Connecting rods/pistons - 2A•6, 2A•11, Emission control components - 1•17, 4•18
Bonnet - 11•4 2A•13, 2B•10, 2B•15 Engine
Braking system - 9•1 et seq Contents - 0•2 auxiliary drivebelt check - 1•14
bleeding the brakes - 9•2 Coolant - 0•12, 0•16, 1•1, 1•18 camshaft - 2B•7, 2B•14
brake fluid - 0•12, 0•16, 1•17 Cooling, heating and camshaft oil seal - 2B•7
brake pad/shoe check - 1•7 ventilation systems - 3•1 et seq crankshaft - 2A•11, 2B•13
brake (and clutch) pedal - 6•3 blower motor - 3•5 crankshaft oil seal - 2A•6, 2B•9
brake warning lamps - 9•11 draining - 1•18 cylinder bores - 2A•11
fault finding - REF•12, REF•16 expansion tank - 3•4 cylinder head - 2A•4, 2A•13, 2B•8, 2B•14,
fault finding - REF•12, REF•14 2B•15
front brake disc - 9•4
flushing - 1•18 dismantling - 2A•9, 2B•12
front caliper - 9•3
heater - 3•4, 3•6, 12•4 examination - 2A•11, 2B•131
front disc pads - 9•3
pump - 3•3 fault finding - REF•12, REF•13
handbrake - 1•13
radiator and fan - 3•3 flywheel - 2A•12
handbrake cables - 9•9
refilling - 1•18 idle speed check - 1•8
handbrake lever - 9•10
temperature gauge sender unit - 3•7 oil - 0•11, 0•16, 1•1, 1•6
hydraulic pipes - 9•8 oil filter - 1•2, 1•6, 2A•7
thermostat - 3•2
master cylinder - 9•7 oil pump - 2A•7, 2A•12, 2B•13
Courtesy light switch - 12•4
pressure control valve - 9•8 Crankcase ventilation system check - 1•16 oil seals - 2B•14, REF•4
rear brake linings - 9•5 Crankshaft - 2A•11, 2B•13 piston rings - 2A•11
rear wheel cylinder - 9•6 Crankshaft oil seals - 2A•6, 2B•9 piston/connecting rods - 2A•6, 2A•11,
rear brake drum - 9•7 CVH engine repair procedures - 2B•1 et seq 2A•13, 2B•10, 2B•15
vacuum servo unit - 9•9 Cylinder bores - 2A•11 reassembly - 2A•14, 2B•16
Bulbs - 12•5, 12•6, 12•7, 12•9 Cylinder head - 2A•4, 2A•13, 2B•8, 2B•14, rocker arms - 2B•14
Bumpers - 11•10 2B•15 rocker gear - 2A•6

REF
REF•24 Index

sump - 2A•5, 2B•10 Interior lamp - 12•6

timing belt - 2B•5
timing check - 1•11
G
Gearbox - see Manual gearbox
Introduction - 0•4

timing sprockets and chain - 2A•12

timing sprockets and belt - 2B•13
Gearchange mechanism - 7•2
Glass - 11•6, 11•9, 11•10
J
Jacking and vehicle support - REF•5
valves - 1•2, 1•12, 2A•3, 2B•3, 2B•5 Glossary of technical terms - REF•18
Engine removal/reconnection - 2A•8, 2A•15, Jump starting - 0•7
Glovebox lamp - 12•6
2B•11, 2B•18
Engine/transmission mountings - 2A•7
Environmental considerations - REF•4 H L
Leaks - 0•9, 1•7, 8•2
Exhaust system check - 1•8, 4•17 Handbrake
Lamps
Expansion tank - 3•4 adjustment - 9•9
bulb renewal, exterior - 12•6
cables - 9•9
bulb renewal, interior - 12•6
F
Facia - 11•11
check - 1•13
lever - 9•10
checking - 0•13¶
removal and refitting - 12•8
warning light switch - 12•4
Facia panel switches - 12•4 Hazard warning bulb - 12•6 Loudspeaker - 12•14
Fault finding - REF•12 et seq Headlamp Lubricants and fluids - 0•16
braking system - REF•12, REF•16 alignment - 12•8 Luggage compartment bulbs - 12•6
clutch - REF•12, REF•15 bulb - 12•6
cooling system - REF•12, REF•14
driveshafts - REF•12, REF•15
unit - 12•8
Heater illumination bulbs - 12•6
M
Maintenance schedule - 1•3
electrical system - REF•12, REF•17 Heater - 3•6 Manual gearbox - 7•1 et seq
engine - REF•12, REF•13 Heater controls - 3•4 fault finding - REF•12, REF•15
fuel and exhaust systems - REF•12, REF•14 Heater motor switch - 12•4 gearchange mechanism - 7•2
gearbox - REF•12, REF•15 Heating systems - 3•1 et seq oil - 0•16
steering and suspension - REF•12, REF•16 Horn - 12•11 oil level check - 1•14
Flywheel - 2A•12 HT leads - 1•11, 5B•3
Foglamp bulb - 12•7 overhaul - 7•7
Hub bearings - 10•5, 10•9 removal and refitting - 7•5
Fuel and exhaust systems - 4•1 et seq Hydraulic system bleeding - 9•2
air cleaner and filter - 1•2, 1•17, 4•3 Master cylinder - 9•7
Mirrors - 11•6, 11•10
carburettors - 1•8, 4•6
choke cable - 4•5 I
Identification numbers - REF•2, REF•3
Mixture adjustment check - 1•9
MOT test checks - REF•8
emission control components - 1•17, 4•18
exhaust system - 1•8, 4•17 Idle speed check - 1•8
fault finding - REF•12, REF•14
fuel pump - 4•3
Ignition system (electronic) - 5B•1 et seq
Ignition system (mechanical) - 5A•1 et seq
N
Number plate light - 12•7
fuel tank - 4•4 Ignition timing - 1•11, 5A•2, 5B•6
idle/mixture speed - 1•8, 1•9
throttle cable - 4•4
throttle damper - 1•12
Ignition lock cylinder - 5A•4
Ignition amplifier module - 5B•6
Indicator lamps - 12•7, 12•8
O
OHV engine repair procedures - 2A•1 et seq
Fuses - 0•13, 12•2, 12•3 Instrument cluster unit - 12•10 Oil filter - 1•2, 1•6, 2A•7, 2B•11
 Index REF•25

Oil pump - 2A•7, 2A•12, 2B•13 Short circuit - 12•3 Throttle damper - 1•12
Oil seals - 2B•14, REF•4 Spare parts - REF•3 Throttle cable - 4•4
Oil Spark plugs - 1•2, 1•10, 1•14, 5B•3 Throttle pedal - 4•5
capacities - 1•1 Speaker - 12•14 Tie-rod end balljoint - 10•4
engine - 0•11, 1•1, 1•6 Specifications - see start of Chapter Timing belt - 2B•5
gearbox - 1•14 Speedometer Timing, ignition - 1•11, 5A•2, 5B•6
recommended types - 0•16 cable - 12•11 Timing sprockets and belt - 2B•13
drive - 7•7 Timing sprockets and chain - 2A•12

P
Parking lamp bulb - 12•7
Spoilers - 11•11
Starter motor - 5C•6
Tools - REF•4, REF•6
Transmission - see Manual gearbox
Starting problems - 0•6 Tyre
Parts - REF•3
Starting and charging systems - 5C•1 et seq checks - 0•15
Pedals
Steering - 10•1 et seq pressures - 0•16
accelerator - 4•5
and suspension check - 1•15 sizes - 1•2
brake and clutch - 6•3
angles - 10•4
Piston rings - 2A•11
Pistons/connecting rods - 2A•6, 2A•11, 2A•13,
2B•10, 2B•15
column - 10•2
column switches - 12•4
U
Underbody inspection - 1•15
fault finding - REF•12, REF•16
Punctures - 0•8 Underbonnet views - 0•10, 1•4
gear - 10•4
Upholstery - 11•2
gear bellows - 10•3
R
Radiator - 3•3
tie-rod end balljoint - 10•4
wheel alignment -10•4 V
draining, flushing and refilling - 1•18 wheel - 10•2 Valves - 1•2, 1•12, 2A•3, 2B•3, 2B•5
fan - 3•3 Sump - 2A•5, 2B•10 Vehicle identification number - REF•2, REF•3
grille - 11•4 Sunroof - 11•12 Vents - 11•11
Radio/cassette player - 12•13 Suspension and steering - 10•1 et seq
Rear lamp - 12•7, 12•8
Rear axle unit - 10•12
fault finding - REF•12, REF•16
front lower arm - 10•7 W
Washer fluid - 0•13
Relays - 12•2, 12•3 front strut (shock absorber) - 10•8
Washer pumps - 12•12, 12•13
Respraying - 11•2 front tie-bar 10•7
Weekly checks - 0•10 et seq
Reversing light switch - 12•5 hub bearings - 10•5, 10•9
Wheel changing - 0•8
Rocker gear - 2A•6 panhard rod - 10•10
Wheel alignment - 10•4
Rocker arms - 2B•14 rear axle - 10•12
Wheel arch cover - 11•15
Routine maintenance - 1•1 et seq rear coil springs - 10•11
Wheel cylinder rear - 9•6
rear shock absorber - 10•10

S Switches - 12•4 Window regulator - 11•8

Windows - 11•9
Safety first - 0•5
Seat belts - 1•8, 11•14 T
Tailgate - 11•5
Windscreen washers - 12•12
Windscreen - 11•10
Seats - 11•14 Wiper motors - 12•11, 12•12
Servo unit - 9•9 Temperature gauge sender unit - 3•7 Wiper blades and arms - 0•14, 12•11
Shock absorber - 10•10 Thermostat - 3•2 Wiring diagrams - 12•16 et seq

REF
 Preserving Our Motoring Heritage

<
The Model J Duesenberg
Derham Tourster.
Only eight of these
magnificent cars were
ever built – this is the
only example to be found
outside the United
States of America
Almost every car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes Motor
Museum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent every aspect of our motoring
heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model J Duesenberg to curiosities like
the bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford
Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent ‘Red Collection’ is a spectacle of classic sports cars
including AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.
A Perfect Day Out
Each and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of
Motoring. Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bring
Mum and Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find
an impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the most
extensive transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from a cup of tea to
wholesome, home-made meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautiful
rural surroundings of Somerset.

>
John Haynes O.B.E., <
Founder and Graham Hill’s Lola
Chairman of the Cosworth Formula 1
museum at the wheel car next to a 1934
of a Haynes Light 12. Riley Sports.

The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and
25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.
Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day
Special rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048