Build A Greenland Kayak Part 6
Build A Greenland Kayak Part 6
Build A Greenland Kayak Part 6
Table of Contents
Step 1: Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 2: Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
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Author:nativewater author's website
skin on frame kayak builder since 1987
Step 1: Materials
2 hull stringers 3/4 x 1 inch in cross section, 16 foot long.
Deck stringers 3/8 x 1-1/2 inch in cross section, 8 foot total.
1/4 inch dowels
Lashing twine - nylon mason's line
Step 2: Tools
Drill and 3/16th inch drill bit for lashing holes
15/64 inch drill bit for drilling doweling holes
hammer for pounding dowels
Image Notes
1. drill the hole through the middle of the keelson centered on the rib.
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Step 4: Center the keelson
Measure the distance from the keelson to the gunwales in a few places to make sure that the keelson is centered. Then go to the end of the boat and sight down the
keelson to make sure it is straight.
Image Notes
1. The keelson should be centered and straight. You can make final adjustments after you're done lashing it.
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Image Notes
1. We're lashing from righ to left here. The string goes under the rib, through the
hole, around the rib on the other side, then under the keelson back to this side,
over the rib and on to the next rib. Image Notes
1. Here's a view of the lashing pattern from the inside. Lashing direction is
right to left.
Image Notes
1. the hull stringer follows the line of the gunwales, being about an inch closer
to the gunwales at the ends than in the middle.
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Image Notes
1. The wider apart the stringers are, the wider the bottom and the more stable the
boat. However, the stringers can't go out too far or they will start going around the
bend of the ribs where they will no longer hold the skin off the ribs.
Image Notes
1. The hull stringer should overlap the stem and stern board by about 2 inches.
Image Notes
1. Here we have a little more than 2 inches of overlap.
Image Notes
1. Mark the stringers. The wood on the inside of the marks will be removed so the stringers can sit flush against the stem board.
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Step 10: Drill the hull stringers
Drill a 3/16 inch lashing hole in the stringer at every rib to stringer intersection.
Image Notes
1. Here's a shim inserted between the rib and the stringer because the gap
exceeded 1/4 inch.
Image Notes
1. We're lashing from righ to left here. The string goes under the rib, through the
hole, around the rib on the other side, then under the keelson back to this side,
over the rib and on to the next rib.
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Step 12: Lash the hull stringer ends
Lash the hull stringer ends together so they are in contact with the stem and stern boards.
Image Notes
1. A few turns of string hold the stringers together at the ends. A notch in the stringer keeps the lashings from sliding forward.
Image Notes
1. Rear deck stringers are parallel to each other and spaced close enough so that
you can sit on them comfortably as you slide into the cockpit.
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Step 14: Install the forward deck stringers
Cut the forward deck stringer to span from deck beam 6, the knee brace to deck beam 4. Position the deck stringers so they are about 4 to 6 inches in from the gunwales.
Dowel them to the deck beams using 1/4 inch dowels
Image Notes
1. Front deck stringers run roughly parallel to the gunwales.
2. position the fronts of the stringer so you have a place to put your feet
comfortably. If your feet go to the outside of the stringers, put the stringers closer
together.
Image Notes
1. these stringers are run all the way forward to deck beam 3 to give the feet some
more room at deck beam 4.
Image Notes
1. The stringers are far enough to the inside to make room for the feet at the
outside.
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Step 16: Drill holes for your deck lines
You won't be installing the deck lines until after you have put the skin on your boat, but it is best to drill the holes now so the sawdust from drilling doesn't end up inside
the hull. Besides, it is easier to measure the position of the holes before the skin is in place.
Drill two holes in the gunwales 4-1/2 inches apart and six inches forward of deck beam number six.
Holes start at the outside edge of the gunwale and are drilled downward at a 45 degree angle. See the picture below for how this looks.
Drill two more sets of holes spaced 4-1/2 inches apart and six inches back of deck beam number 7.
Drill another pair of holes near the bow and another near the stern. Drill them at the point where gunwale separation is about 6 inches.
Image Notes
1. Measure the position of the lashing holes. Image Notes
1. drill holes for the decklines into the outside edge of the gunwales. Drill down at
a 45 degree angle.
Image Notes
1. The deck line is tied off on the inside of the gunwales. This is the start of the
Image Notes line. It goes through the gunwale, over the top to the other side, through the
1. This shows how the decklines are strung. Separation of the lines is 4-1/2 gunwale, out again, over the top to this side, then off to the right where it's tied off
to a rib.
inches. We have to pull the lines again before putting on the skin.
2. the end of the deckline is tied off to a rib in the cockpit area. This makes it easy
to adjust line tension.
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Image Notes
1. This end will clip to the airbag so we can pull it forward.
Image Notes
1. A continuous loop of 1/8 inch rope run through a ring at the bow lets us pull
airbags forward.
Image Notes
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1. The frame is done and getting a coat of varnish.
Image Notes
1. the rim of the coaming form is oval and about 2-1/2 inches wide to allow us to clamp the coaming blank to the form with a clamp that has a 3 inch jaw opening.
Image Notes
1. Taper the coaming blank down to 1/16th inch at this end.
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Step 21: Bend the coaming
When the coaming is done soaking, clamp one end to the back center of the bending form. Run hot water over a bit of the coaming blank at a time. Water should be too
hot to hold your hand under. When the wood is hot, after about 2 minutes, bend that section around the form and clamp it. Then heat the next section, bend it until you
are all the way around the form with the tapered ends overlapping at the back end of the form.
Lash the coaming ends together at the end so they don't spring apart.
Image Notes
1. Clamp the coaming to the form so the overlap will be toward the back end
of the coaming.
Image Notes
1. Run hot water on the coaming blank for about 3 minutes, then bend the
coaming around the first bend or however far you've been able to heat the wood.
Then clamp and heat the next section.
Image Notes
1. Small dowels spaced 2 inches apart hold the rim to the coaming. The rim keeps the spray skirt from slipping off the coaming.
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Step 23: You're done with the frame
You're done with the frame!
Admire its beauty. It's almost a shame to cover it with skin which will be the next step.
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