Winestate Magazine - May 2021
Winestate Magazine - May 2021
Winestate Magazine - May 2021
THE 2020
Fine Wines
AUSTRIAN
WINE VINTAGE
A CHALLENGING,
YET REWARDING YEAR STELLAR STANDOUT IN A
MOUNTAIN OF WINE
Highland Heritage Estate continues
its stratospheric success
ZEK’S SWANSONG
WA Industry stalwart, Mike Zekulich, hangs up his Tastevin
May/June 2021
Vol 44 Issue 3
$12.00 AUS (inc GST)
Wines of NSW
plus
NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95
US $17.99 GBP £10.95
EUR $9.95 China RMB100
184 tasted
HKD $120 CHF 15.00
smeg.com.au
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F E A T U R E S
26
Winestate Magazine
Issue Number 307
May/June 2021
For a complete list of what we tasted for this
Cover photograph issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au
5phonrf
grandeurwellington.com.au
201 Blewitt Springs Road,
McLaren Flat, SA 5171
Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
editorial
Cheers,
THE VINTAGE FROM HELL Treasury Wine Estates chief executive, Tim Ford, was quoted
as saying: “That’s how we’re going to run the business for the
THERE were six words in all, only six. But in the powerful West
foreseeable future, and we’ve stopped any work on demerger
Australian Newspaper morning daily headline, they said it all: The
options.”
Swan Valley’s vintage from hell. It thundered as the vicious fire
burnt up more than 10,000 hectare of land, 86 houses, numerous
outer buildings, fences, gates, livestock, pets and wildlife on its
TOUGHING IT OUT
terrible path to being one of the worst natural disasters to smash IT’S been a tough 12 months for Victorian winemakers with the loss
the region. Stunned local wine and table grapegrowers including of tourism, wine sales and an important export market, but in the lead
winemaker James Talijancich, who with wife Hilda and parents up to the 2021 vintage one cool climate wine region was fearful of
Peter and Mary were evacuated, said they had never seen anything losing its entire crop due to smoke taint. And it wasn’t smoke taint
like it in a lifetime in the valley. from bushfires but rather controlled burns in the region by the Victorian
James revealed seeing thousands upon thousands of flying red state government.
embers – like stars in the night – against the black background of With grapes just weeks away from picking, Forest Fire Management
the nearby Darling Ranges along with huge black clouds to the Victoria planned to conduct controlled fires around the region’s Wombat
east and north showing where the fire may have started. Forest area in an effort to reduce the risk of future bushfires.
At one stage it was estimated burning bits of Australian bush were The decision has caused deep concern among wine producers.
said to be more than three kilometres ahead of the fire’s face, the One winemaker, Robert Walters at Place of Changing Winds vineyard
wind fanning the searing heat leaving behind devastation that some hired a lawyer in an effort to stop the controlled burns.
referred to as a ‘war zone.’ At one stage, the fire was estimated to A spokesperson for the Forest Fire Management was quoted in
have had a perimeter of 122km with exhausted fire-fighters and Melbourne media as saying: “Smoke from a bushfire has far greater
volunteers doing all they could in the difficult battle. impact on vineyards than smoke from a planned burn.”
Swan Valley industry leader John Griffiths said he was picking
grapes on his vineyard when it was shrouded in smoke. With the LOSSES AND GAINS
help of the WA Agriculture Department unpicked berry samples
were sent to the Australian Wine Research Institute for analysis. YALUMBA’S loss is a big gain for one of Australia’s biggest wine
“You either sent a sample of grapes or a dry wine for smoke taint producers.
– but we sent both,” he said. John described smoke taint as a bit Last year, Accolade Wines lured Yalumba senior winemaker, Nat
like volatile acidity in wine. Cleghorn, to the role of senior winemaker and manager at Katnook
“You get to a point where it is noticeable, to becoming unpleasant, Estate in Coonawarra. In February of this year, Accolade announced
like a dirty ashtray,” he said. that long-time Yalumba senior winemaker, Teresa Heuzenroeder,
would be taking up the role of senior winemaker and manager for
its Tintara, Petaluma and Croser brands.
LIVING IN INTERESTING TIMES
Teresa Heuzenroeder will oversee a period of consolidation for
TO borrow from a popular Chinese saying, one of Australia’s Petaluma after Accolade Wines announced that it had outgrown
biggest wine companies, Treasury Wine Estates, has been living its Adelaide Hills
in interesting times. As the country’s largest exporter of branded winery and production
wines, it has been badly affected by the protracted trade war was moving to the
between Australia and China. In February, it announced a 43% company’s Tintara
drop in profits for the first half year, a reflection of the 212% import facility in McLaren Vale.
tariffs China levied on Australian wine imports. Accolade has plans
In response, the company, like other Australian exporters, says for even further growth
it is working to open up new markets in Asia and is reinvigorating of the Petaluma and
export efforts in the US and the UK. Croser brands.
The company also had to deal with persistent rumours that it
planned to sell off its jewel in the crown, Penfolds wines. The Fairfax LETTING IT FLOW
media in February reported that TWE had cancelled a potential
demerger and the move was no longer in contention with the THE Barossa Valley and Eden Valley wine industries could be
company unveiling plans to split its business into three divisions: the major beneficiaries of an assured supply of additional water
Penfolds, Treasury Premium Brands and Treasury Americas. It also following a move by the South Australian government to request
reported that TWE would be selling off some of its US assets with multi-million-dollar funding for a new feasibility water supply study.
the hope of recouping around $300 million. The government has already invested $1.5 million into identifying
private sector investors to deliver recycled water to the regions.
Nearly 3000 people employed in the wine and grape sector in the which was established with a multi-million-dollar government
Barossa account for nearly 10 per cent of national wine sector jobs. and region injection in 2018 in order to promote winery tourism
Long term water security is key to the region’s long-term locally and internationally.
sustainability. The Five Pillars are the Pinot Coast, King Valley Prosecco
Road, Rutherglen Fortified Resurgence, Yarra Valley Culinary
DEMERGER MOVES AHEAD Destination and Central Region.
SEEING DOUBLE
BEC Hardy Wines has announced a new winemaker: Bec
Swincer. Swincer brings with her over two decades of winemaking
experience.
Bec Hardy, the great-great-great granddaughter of Thomas
Hardy, known as the ‘Father of South Australian wine’ took the reins
from her father Geoff in 2020 to become the owner of Pertaringa,
in its 40th year, whilst Geoff retains ownership of Wines by Geoff
Hardy in the Adelaide Hills featuring the successful brands of K1,
Handcrafted and GMH.
In the six months since the transition, she has overhauled the
DOUBLE GOOD NEWS
McLaren Vale cellar door, developed a number of new varieties
under her eponymous Bec Hardy label, and been chosen by THE recent opening of the Mövenpick Hobart Hotel was double
AusTrade as the only South Australian business in its ‘Remarkable good news for the Tasmanian capital. Not only did it gain
Australian Exporter’ showcase. much-needed luxury rooms in the city centre, but it also added
Bec Swincer has spent time working within leading wineries in Tesoro - a new gourmet destination for both locals and visitors.
Clare Valley, Barossa Valley and the Adelaide Hills, where she was Mövenpick is a Swiss brand, known globally for its ice creams
winemaker for Petaluma. as well as its hotels, but this is its first property in Australia.
She studied Oenology at the University of Adelaide and the There are 221 rooms over levels three to 18, but the hotel has
University of California, Davis and is returning to Australia following a more boutique feel. The rooms feature Tasmanian artworks
two years working in California, where she was part of an all-female and have fast free wifi, while Tesoro uses local produce with an
team at The Prisoner Wine Company. Italian spin. The staff are multinational and uniformly efficient -
“It’s been a rewarding experience working in the US and learning not always a Hobart strength. As is the case in all Movenpick
about the different approach to winemaking and progressive hotels, there is a daily chocolate hour each afternoon with
techniques that are being introduced there, but it’s great to be able guests offered chocolate-inspired treats, drinks and cocktails.
to come back home to Australia and McLaren Vale in particular, with The lobby level is warm and welcoming with plenty of shared
its welcoming community of passionate winemakers," Swincer said. spaces, stunning art and plenty of power points, and flows into
"Having come from an all-female team and as a mother of the hotel’s eatery, which boasts a broad selection of cocktails
daughters, it’s really exciting to be part of a brand that celebrates and local and imported wines (think names like Chatto, Holyman
women pushing forward in the industry. and Waterton Hall). Web check-in is available. Mövenpick Hotel
"As Pertaringa and Bec Hardy Wines enter a new era, it’s a huge Hobart boasts a flexible function space for up to 100 guests,
opportunity for me to make my mark and play a part in something which can also be divided into two. The rooms are stylish
really special. and spacious - even in their smallest iteration. The beds are
“Joining just before harvest means I’ll be getting stuck in comfortable and the design well thought out with plenty of
immediately – first up is the pick of the Pertaringa sauvignon blanc. plugs and USB ports at bedside, effective lighting and even a
The mild growing season so far is promising fantastic quality for wireless charging port. TVs come with Chromecast so guests
our reds and whites, which is really exciting.” can cast Netflix or Stan from their own devices. Mini bars are
For more details see www.bechardy.com.au. "order only" in these Covid times, while the best views of the
Hobart waterfront come from the higher levels - and were superb
from 1801, where we were lodged.
The Mövenpick entrance lobby - and that of Tesoro - are in the
Hobart bus mall precinct, however hotel guests can drive their
vehicles in for valet parking under a "local traffic" exemption.
There are several eating options within a couple of hundred
metres, and the waterfront is just a short stroll away. Accor
Pacific CEO, Simon McGrath, said: “Mövenpick Hotel Hobart
transcends the traditional hotel experience by masterfully
blending the brand’s Swiss heritage with a premium hospitality
experience.
"We’re so excited to share this stunning property with guests
visiting Hobart from other parts of Tasmania and Australia.
Accor is planning more locations for Mövenpick across the
Pacific and we believe this premium brand will quickly gain
recognition for its culinary and service excellence.”
Then there is Tesoro, quickly becoming a favourite with the
locals. The range of Cape Grim steaks, dry-aged in house, are
a star attraction and bloody delicious, particularly alongside
plates of grilled asparagus with black garlic, parmesan, truffle
oil and poached egg. Risottos of locally foraged mushrooms the distilling pot to create an aromatic and flavour-rich juice.
and Tasmanian truffle oil are also popular, along with local The gin has a rich medicinally flavoured goodness.
seafood dishes. The dessert panacotta with Prosecco and wild “The Myrcene Hemp Gin has become a staple spirit for so
berries is a star turn. many households, and the feedback we constantly receive
Executive Chef Trent Whelan said: “For the team at Tesoro, about the beverage is nothing short of amazing,” said Alexandra
it’s important we showcase the exceptional produce for which Poznyak, managing director of Treeline Beverages, a division
Tasmania is known, along with Italian cuisine. of The Cannabis Company.
"Simple food and ingredients sourced through local, “The cannabis sativa plant is one of the world’s most
sustainable and ethical producers – many of whom we know restorative botanicals, used by healers for thousands of years.
personally – form the foundation of our food ethos." We’re excited to offer a drink that not only tastes good, but also
Tesoro is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. See www. does good, using some of the world’s best-quality hemp grown
tesorohobart.com.au. Mövenpick Hotel Hobart, 28 Elizabeth right here in Australia.
Street, Hobart TAS 7000. To book, visit www.all.accor.com “We are on a mission to promote the natural healing power
of the cannabis plant, challenging the orthodox principles of
FEEL GOOD BOTANICALS the big pharmaceutical companies, and Western medicine.”
See www.cannabiscompany.com.au. The Myrcene Hemp Gin
FANCY a little bit of cannabis infused in your gin? The Cannabis
is not intended to be, or consumed as, a medicinal product.
Company’s Myrcene Hemp Gin is billed as a feel-good spirit to
warm us up as the weather gets cooler.
WINE SHINES IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Myrcene Hemp Gin has an earthy aroma and distinctive
earthy flavours as a result of 15 botanicals including juniper, AN American winery has launched a new brand that is bottled
orris, angelica, rosemary, sage, lavender, balanced with a soft in "unbreakable, infinitely recyclable" aluminium bottles.
touch of myrcene, an active terpene in both hemp and hops. It Sonoma County producer Limerick Lane Cellars calls the
is known for its restorative and healing properties. range Revelshine and says the wines are designed for outdoor
Crafted in Healesville in the Yarra Valley, Myrcene Hemp Gin enjoyment.
was the first in Australia and is available online via The Cannabis The range comprises a red blend made from zinfandel, shiraz
Company and at Dan Murphy’s stores ($99). It is promoted as and durif; a chardonnay/grenache blanc blend and a GSM rosé
100% Australian grown, organic and made using the cannabis with a touch of grenache blanc.
sativa plant, grown in Tasmania. The terpenes are added into The lightweight packaging was created by New York-based
branding agency Motto and the surfboard, guitar, campfire Hotel General Manger Mark Winterton said: “This is a time when
and backpack icons on the back of the bottle emphasise the Australians are exploring their own backyard, so upgrading the hotel's
al fresco message. resort facilities is very well-timed by Dr Schwartz.
“While my work life has always led me through wine, my “The Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley is now a one-stop destination for
passion and love is the outdoors," says brand founder Jake families, couples and groups of friends. Our resort offers 414 hotel
Bilbro. "Rivers, mountains, beaches, music festivals – this is rooms and villas, 18-hole championship golf course, two swimming
where I find my inspiration. I realised, along with my other pools and Ubika Day Spa."
friends who are surfers, skiers, kayakers, mountain bikers and For more information see www.crowneplazahuntervalley.com.au/
musicians, that you just don’t have good wine where we enjoy water-park/
these activities.
“If you do, it is because you had to go to extraordinary lengths WHEN IN ROME...?
to bring it, such as duct taping your bottles or pouring your
THE brachetto grape is very much a bit-part player in the
good wine into inflatable bladders from previous boxed wine.
diverse and colourful theatre of Italian wine. Brachetto is a
No matter the bottle, glass does not work on the beach or the
red wine grape grown primarily in Piedmont that dates back to
river. And that is how Revelshine was created."
Roman times and Brachetto d'Acqui is made in both still and
Bilbro hopes the wines will be "packed in and packed out,
spumante versions.
so we can preserve the outdoors for the next generation”.
Brachetto tends to produce light-bodied, aromatic wines with
Revelshine has partnered with environmental group “1% for
distinctive notes of candied ripe strawberries. In Brachetto
the Planet” and is working towards adding more sustainable
d'Acqui it produces a slightly sweet sparkling wine that can be
products to the range.
similar to Lambrusco. It has been called a red equivalent of the
sweetish white Moscato d'Asti.
W H E R E W I N E M E E T S W AT E R PA R K
In recent years, brachetto has found a home at Soumah Wines
ADVENTURE in the Yarra Valley, where they produce both a still and a frizzante
WHEN Mum and Dad have had their fill of wine tasting and gourmet (gently sparkling) version that are both defiantly pink in colour.
excursions, kids can enjoy themselves at the new heated water park Both wines are low in alcohol and offer brightness, freshness
at Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley Resort. and delightful summer refreshment when enjoyed lightly chilled.
Now open to guests of the hotel, the new Water Splash Park was The 2020 Brachetto Frizzante ($28) is described as like
designed and built by White Water Australia and is over two storeys "liquid Turkish delight with the sweet flavours of rose water
high, complete with an assortment of slides, flutes, showers, water and strawberries", while the 2020 Brachetto Tranquillo ($32)
cannons and jets designed to entertain the whole family. is a lovely aperitif or dessert wine with a remarkably similar
The Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley - part of the IHG Group - offers the flavour profile.
most comprehensive collection of kids facilities and activities in the Pizzini, Parish Hill and La Fattoria are among the other
region with the water park adding to a mini-train, carousel, a converted Australian producers of brachetto.
tug boat, the Water Dragons kids club, pony rides and the new Hunter For details see www.soumah.com.au.
Valley Kids Cottage.
“The Hunter Valley has perhaps been seen more as a destination for FRENCH FLAIR WITH HARBOUR VIEWS
adults wanting to go to wineries, play golf or attend conferences, but
EXECUTIVE chef Eric Costille and his team will call on his French
we've transformed the Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley into a resort for both
heritage as he launches the new southern French-inspired menu
discerning adults and children,” said hotel owner Dr Jerry Schwartz.
at the Atelier by Sofitel, the signature restaurant at Sofitel Sydney
“The missing ingredient in the resort's inventory was a water park,
Darling Harbour.
and I'm pleased to say this has really added something substantial to
Costille and executive sous chef Gaurav Bide will be presenting
the Hunter Valley's tourism attractions.
classic French dishes with authentic taste profiles. Costille joined
“Importantly, the water is heated through our environmentally-friendly
the hotel in 2018 following a career in Michelin-starred restaurants
Cogen plant that also heats the resort's main pool. The addition of
in his native south of France and more recently in several five-star
heated water will make it attractive for families visiting during much
hotels in Asia, has been carefully considering the new culinary
of the year.”
vision for the hotel.
“In a restaurant where creativity is king, culinary inspiration and a menu which will deliver a selection of French classics
flows and fresh ingredients are transformed, I believe there is infused with a modern culinary twist.”
an opportunity to raise the bar on how our guests and visitors Think dishes like a plancha of XL Yamba prawns flambéed in Pastis,
experience hotel dining," he said. or whole market fish Niçoise, and Provençal Vegetable, a twist on the
"Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour has a cultural link to traditional Provençal dish, using baked eggplant and spring onions
Marseille and, as such, I wanted to take my inspiration from the along with fresh artichoke heart and ratatouille. Atelier's signature
Mediterranean and south of France and bring together a kitchen dishes also include an elegant lamb shank navarin and the l'assiette
de legumes, a vegan dish served with tofu-olive polenta, glazed
yellow endive, king oyster mushroom and confit beetroot ketchup.
As part of the new menu, Costille is using a Mibrasa grill that
delivers an authentic charcoal barbecue flavour.
The wine selection covers France, Australia, New Zealand and Italy
and are featured in the 800-bottle wine and Champagne wall that
connects Atelier by Sofitel to Sydney's only hotel Champagne Bar.
Atelier by Sofitel is open for dinner Thursday to Sunday. Visit www.
sofiteldarlingharbour.com.
Event & Design Awards meet the teams online Marketing insights
People’s Choice award
24 MAY 2021
and an awards presentation to highlight
the winning packaging designs of the year.
QUALITY EATS
VERA at Beechworth has built a reputation as a quality winery
eatery since opening in February. Part of the Glenbosch Estate
winery, but separate from the cellar door, it offers views and
lunches from Friday to Mondays.
Vera is also home to regular private functions and receptions.
The cellar door offers wine and spirit tastings, while the restaurant
features shared plates highlighting local produce. There are two
stages of seven savoury plates for $65 per person with the option to
MAGNIFICENT MANSFIELD add desert. Think plates like sardines with local apple remoulade;
cured salmon with Glenbosch gin and tonic-pickled cucumbers
WITH a blend of stunning natural beauty, laid-back country vibes and
and goat meatballs with pepper and tomato ragu and buckwheat
a dab of city chic, Mansfield is right now one of the High Country’s
polenta. See www.glenbosch.com.au.
hottest getaway destinations.
After a tumultuous year, the town (and its surrounding villages of
Bonnie Doon, Jamieson and Merrijig) have emerged rejuvenated SMALL BUT SIGNIFICANT
and buzzing with a range of exciting new visitor experiences from IT may only be a small town but Rutherglen fights well above
luxurious accommodation to cool places to eat, drink and explore. its weight division when it comes to gourmet diversions. This
Gourmets can grab a table or takeaway from chef Tristan Keen’s is a historic wine growing area invigorated by a crop of bold
Asian-Australian menu at fun and funky new casual bar and eatery, young winemakers. Take in stunning gold rush streetscapes,
The Fields. Thinks dishes like crispy prawn dumplings with black explore the surrounding vineyards, and enjoy outdoor fun in
vinegar and soy, and sesame furikake. the nearby lakes and rivers.
Swiftcrest Distillery’s Hank and Carrie Thierry hand craft a You certainly will not go thirsty in Rutherglen, home to world-
range of spirits - like Vanilla Bean vodka, Alpine Spring gin admired fortified wines, robust reds and crisp white wines since
and Dutch Apple Pie moonshine - from local and organic the early 1800s. Visit revitalised cellar doors and meet fourth
ingredients and offer tours and tastings at their off-grid farm and fifth generation winemakers drawing on family tradition and
outside Mansfield. modern techniques to keep Rutherglen on the map. Learn about
BullerRoo at a View To A Hill is perched on a hilltop with winemaking and taste premium wines at the Rutherglen Wine
fabulous views across the Barwite Valley to the Broken River. Experience and Visitor Information Centre. Explore the scenic
Enjoy luxurious accommodation, incredible night skies and winery circuit in a hired limousine or tour bus or cycle the banks
meet cute pygmy goats. of the Murray River to wineries along the Muscat Trail.
For nature lovers, Mansfield Glamping offers next-level luxury Hedonistic types can linger at cellar door restaurants like Tuileries
stays in bell tents. Accommodation comes with the options of at Jolimont Cellars, or settle in at picnic areas among the vines.
a breakfast hamper, gourmet produce platter, locally sourced Spend long afternoons in country pubs. One “must do” is to save
wine or artisan barbecue pack. Book for a private massage or room for an iconic Parker pie.
on-site yoga class. The Rutherglen region is the perfect spot for outdoor
Monnie from Mansfield Bushwalks shares her local knowledge adventures with the family. Cast a line in the Murray, pedal
and favourite secret places on fun, tailored pack-free short walks along the riverbanks or cruise the waters in boats, canoes
and guided scenic tours of Mansfield and surrounds. Or soar high and kayaks. Pick up a bike at St Leonard's Winery and explore
above the landscape in a hot air Global Balloon flight. the region at your own pace. Join the Pedal to Produce Cycle
Visitors to Mansfield can also explore a slice of Australia’s longest Trail to sample the wine, fruit and produce at local orchards,
off-road rail trail - the Great Victorian Rail Trail - which starts in wineries and cafes.
Mansfield and traverses a whopping 134km through beautiful
rural scenery.
SAVING THE CELEBRATIONS
Coming soon is Delatite Wines’ swanky new cellar door, with
incredible, panoramic views straight to Mt Buller. THE 160th birthday celebrations for landmark Victorian winery
An easy 2.5 hours from Melbourne, Mansfield is an ideal weekend Tahbilk were put on hold for a third time as a result of Covid-19
getaway destination and is the jumping off point for Mt Buller and Mt lockdowns. Tahbilk, Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery, was
Stirling winter snow and summer adventures, Lake Eildon, camping, established in 1860 on the banks of the Goulburn River in the
fly fishing, houseboating, guided walks, horse treks and wild hiking. Nagambie Lakes region.
Two dates in 2020 - the first in August, then in December - to The Celebrate Italy in the High Country tour costs $2375 per
mark the winery's anniversary had to be scrapped and the person twin share inclusive of accommodation in the Colonial Motor
Purbrick family also had to abandon celebrations planned for Inn in Bright, all activities and meals with wine.
February 22-23. Celebrate Italy in the High Country is one of several new Victoria-
"It's with sadness and much frustration that we have decided based tours introduced by Hedonistic Hiking for 2021. Other
to postpone this event for the third time but it's our intention to hiking destinations covered by the new tour collection include
reschedule when vaccination roll out has been completed in the Grampians, the Goldfields Track in Central Victoria, and the
Australia and we have entered a safe and stable post Covid-19 Great Ocean Walk. Tours are graded 1-5, with 5 being the most
era," said CEO Alister Purbrick. challenging. All tours have a strong gastronomic focus, featuring
"We'll monitor the current Victorian outbreak and the wine tastings, picnic lunches that showcase local produce, and
vaccination roll out and confirm our intentions with regard to dinners with outstanding wine.
holding this event around July-August 2021. It's certainly been Hedonistic Hiking was established in 2007 by Anglo-Australian
a rollercoaster ride." couple, Jackie and Mick
Purbrick added: “Clearly the pandemic has affected Tahbilk Parsons, who design, research and lead all the tours in Australia
from a travel and tourism perspective, but the Tahbilk team are and Europe. Further
completely confident that these unforeseeable circumstances information from www.hedonistichiking.com or call 0428 198 918.
will see Tahbilk come back stronger than ever.”
HARVEST UNDERWAY
AT the time of press, harvest is well underway throughout New
Zealand with vignerons feeling optimistic about the quality
of incoming grapes. After an unsettled spring, the weather
has largely been warm and dry throughout the growing
season, though Central Otago experienced a few temperature
rollercoasters with snow on the hills occurring in both January
and February. March brought significantly cooler overnight
temperatures throughout the country which slowed the
ripening pace, preserving acid, balancing potential alcohols
and enhancing phenolic development, leaving winemakers
LAWSON’S DRY HILLS CERTIFIED CARBON enthusiastic about their crop’s health and flavour. Clive Paton of
ZERO Ata Rangi in Martinborough says, “It’s shaping up to be a good
vintage. We’ve had really interesting weather… quite a big
MARLBOROUGH producer Lawson’s Dry Hills gets to celebrate
diurnal shift - the difference between night and day - and that’s
their 30th harvest alongside another special milestone – achieving
what we like.” Much like the 2020 vintage, the current harvest
carbon zero status. By quantifying and reporting their greenhouse
is likely to deliver quality without generous quantities. This
gas emissions and removals, they met the requirements of
may spell some supply-side frustration but for now it presents
ISO14064, receiving Toitu Envirocare accreditation. This builds
a silver lining in terms of harvest labour. The closed New
upon Lawson’s Dry Hills’ ongoing sustainability efforts – in 2011
Zealand borders have prevented the usual influx of seasonal
they achieved the environmental management system ISO14001,
RSE workers and backpackers, creating significant ongoing
currently making them the only New Zealand wine producer to
challenges with shortages not only for harvest but throughout
hold both ISOs. General Manager and shareholder, Sion Barnsley
in the growing season for pruning and other vineyard tasks.
comments, “We have always considered sustainability in our
The impact of the closed borders is not only being felt on the
decision-making across the business and to attain carbon zero
production side – the corresponding lack of inbound tourism
status is an achievement we are very proud of. Our small team
is also affecting wineries throughout the country in terms of
have strongly supported our vision and everyone has contributed
cellar doors and the wider wine tourism trade. Domestic tourism
to this important milestone.” Group Marketing Manager, Belinda
from more New Zealanders travelling throughout the country
Jackson adds, “We know how important sustainability is
has plugged some gaps, and many wineries have adapted
becoming for those making purchasing decisions, so we’re
in a variety of clever ways to the changing times, there’s no
delighted that our environmental credentials add further value
denying the months of missing tourists are taking their toll.
to those enjoying our wines.”
Now more than ever is a great time to buy the New Zealand
wines and producers you love, to visit where and when you
can (roll on that trans-Tasman travel bubble!), as handily this
is beneficial for both for your own pleasure and also to help
ensure all those favourite producers will still be going strong
this time next year.
SHIFTING BOUNDARIES
THE IPCC’s (Intergovernmental panel on Bordeaux Supérieur. This adds to the six used because it ripens late, at a time when
climate change) next Climate Change - black and seven white already permitted: the autumn weather of coolish climate
Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability report merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet Bordeaux is getting damp and cool. In
is not due to be published until later this year, franc, plus bits of carmenere, malbec and the face of climate warming, lateness of
but the current, 2014, version was already petit verdot, for black; semillon, sauvignon ripening is increasingly an asset, to avoid
unequivocal, “Climate change will change blanc, muscadelle plus a few percent of critical ripening during the increasing heat
the geographic distribution of wine grape sauvignon gris, colombard, ugni blanc and of summer.
varieties …”, and elsewhere: “Vineyards merlot blanc for white. What are these ‘new’ varieties? Touriga
may be displaced geographically beyond nacional is a mainstay of Portugal’s Douro
their traditional boundaries,” that is, Where European unfortified and fortified wines (Port). A key
existing appellation boundaries. In Europe asset is its ability to ripen in great heat
appellation regulations tend to be much appellations have a and keep its acidity. Douro wines from
more prescriptive than in Australian GIs. it are already renowned for high quality
There are rules on which grape varieties can known, reputable, of flavour, tannin, concentration and
be grown, what planting density, maximum ageworthiness.
yields, and some, also with details on prestigious style, or The other reds hail from the broader
winemaking options. s o u t h w e s t F r a n c e a re a i n w h i c h
Climate is a fundamental parameter range of styles, climate Bordeaux is located.
of ‘terroir’ – the expression of sense of Arinarnoa, a crossing between cabernet
place. Where European appellations have change risks wiping that sauvignon and tannat, has been around
a known, reputable, prestigious style, or for more than half a century. Tannat is
range of styles, climate change risks wiping out, along with all the another high acid variety, plentifully tannic,
that out, along with all the heritage and late-ripener, already renowned for making
history associated with classic regions. heritage and history ageworthy wines in its home of Madiran. Its
Bordeaux and Champagne arguably top thick skins and loose clusters enable it to
such a pre-eminent list. Both have been associated with classic resist grey rot (botrytis bunch rot) rather well.
researching for some years on how best Castets, described in Robinson, Harding
to preserve their identities in a climate
regions. and Vouillamoz’ ‘Wine Grapes’ book as
changed world. Bordeaux is the first to a “very minor western Pyrenean variety
change some of the rules. The new permitted black grapes are: clinging on in France” may just have been
After more than a decade of research arinarnoa, castets, marselan and touriga given a new lease of life. It also shows
on experimental plantings in Bordeaux of nacional, plus white alvarinho and liliorila. I decent resistance to the three key diseases
52 different grape varieties from various, doubt too many professionals have heard of of European viticulture grey rot, powdery
mainly Mediterranean countries, at the some of these. Varying degrees of disease mildew and downy mildew. Deep colour
beginning of this year INAO, the French resistance, drought-tolerance, acidity seems to be a key wine attribute.
National Institute of Quality and Origin, retention and lateness of ripening were Marselan has already been gaining a little
that oversees and regulates protected important deciding factors. Indeed, high ground, mainly in southern France. It is a
appellations, (all agricultural and food quality, perfumed, powerfully-structured cabernet sauvignon crossing with grenache,
products, including wine), gave official petit verdot, a long time original member also bred more than 50 years ago. Like
approval to four additional black and two of approved grape varieties, has already arinarnoa, it combines quality attributes –
white grape varieties for two Bordeaux seen big increases in plantings (from a tiny in this case: deep colour, perfume, supple
appellations: (generic) Bordeaux and base) in recent years. It was previously little tannin – with needed viticultural attributes –
TEMPRANILLO has probably more after – it can take a bit to get good tannin I asked Frank what first attracted him
synonyms than any other grape variety. ripeness.” Birds also like tempranillo. to plant it. “Originally I was attracted to
It is Spain’s most popular black grape “We net it all, but they still try to find their it because it was different, but now the
found in many regions, but especially way in,” Frank sighs. So, there are a few appeal lies in how well we find it suits
famous in Rioja, where it can be blended seasonal challenges facing growers, but our site. It does work well in a variety of
with garnacha, mazuelo (AKA carignan) it can start even earlier with planting the regions, but I think it excels in continental
and graciano. In the higher altitude right clonal material. Frank explains, “We climates. You don’t get the same cherry-
cooler Ribera del Duero region, it is originally planted D8V12 from Victoria cola/savoury aromatics in any other
known as Tinto Fino or Tinta Fina, and and that had leafroll virus type 5, so we variety I’ve met, and it can make wines
is blended with cabernet sauvignon. of the sort of structure and power that
Here you can find some of Spain’s most only a handful of other varieties can
sought-after wines such as Vega Sicilia Generally, tempranillo achieve.” Canberra District’s generally
and Dominio de Pingus. Widespread cool climate means that the grape can
plantings are increasingly found in produces medium-bodied retain its acidity and produce more
Portugal where it makes a dry red under elegant styles. This, coupled together
the synonym of, again, Tinto Fino and wines with soft acidity. with the red volcanic and limestone soils,
Aragonez. Travel to other parts of Spain make it an interesting site for the grape
and it is known as Tinta Madrid, Tinta
It displays fruity black and not dissimilar to Northern Spain.
del Pais and Tinta de Toro. In Australia, G e n e r a l l y, t e m p r a n i l l o p ro d u c e s
plain old tempranillo remains one of the
cherry character and medium-bodied wines with soft acidity.
fringe alternative grape varieties and if It displays fruity black cherry character
has high levels of
you search academic work prior to 1990 and has high levels of glycerine which
there is little reference to it being planted. produces a silky texture. Tannins are
glycerine which produces
Temprano means early in Spanish which generally moderate to high. Australia
is maybe how the grape variety got its a silky texture. produces a number of different styles
name as it ripens early. The vine can from unwooded fruit driven wines to
either be trellised or grown as a bush serious oak matured, structured and
vine. Cropping levels can vary, but for replaced it with clean material from South age worthy styles. Strict water control
Frank van de Loo, viticulturist turned Australia of the same clone. We now have is essential to restrict the size of the
winemaker at Mount Majura Vineyard several other clones as well, but D8V12 berries to obtain good quality fruit.
in the Canberra District, they are low. is the bulk of what we make and we are When grown on fertile soils the wines
“There is sensitivity to powdery mildew, very happy with it.” Mount Majura started can be light bodied with red fruits,
but we usually manage that without making wine in 2003 from the young vines restricting the yield and water produces
much trouble. In some seasons we wish but it wasn’t until 2013 that the vineyard more fleshy medium bodied wines with
the canopy would hold off senescing had matured enough to produce single better tannins. In cool climates the wines
(leaves turning autumnal) a little longer site bottlings. It is a long process and display more spice and savoury notes
in order to get the ripeness that we’re under appreciated by most drinkers. and more tannin again.
The Rioja region produces wines that own as a varietal here. “Our wines have
show the special side of tempranillo. To a good level of acidity which is often a
be labelled a Gran Reserva, for instance, bit soft in Rioja where it is balanced by
it must first be from a great vintage and the addition of garnacha and graciano,”
then undergo five years of aging before explains Phil. Frank makes a blend called
release, including a whopping two years TSG. “We’re not trying to copy a Rioja
in either French or American barriques. blend, and other producers are having
Traditionally these wines would have a success with partners like touriga, shiraz
dusty or tobacco character, however, and even cabernet, so there are no rules.
these days, you are more likely to find In our TSG blend, tempranillo gives
some primary fruit still there. Crianza dark fruits and savouriness and grainy
Winestate Magazine
and Joven style wines are released with tannins, while shiraz gives some mid- @WinestateEd
less and sometimes no oak and are palate flesh and graciano gives spice
designed to be drunk young and fresh and lift. I would love to try co-fermenting
and are more popular. It is a significantly them, but they ripen too far apart.”
large viticultural area with a massive I’m torn between tempranillo as a single
66,000 hectares of plantings spread variety or a blend, and whilst there is
over the three zones of Alta, Alavesa an argument, and often I agree with the
and Oriental. The last zone was called saying, the whole is greater than the
Baja up until 2017 when the name was sum of its parts, tempranillo has enough
changed. In Spanish Baja means a drop character to fly solo.
or fall, denoting it is the lower of the three
regions. This faint reference upset some
producers. However, far from solving
the problem, the new name has sparked
more complaints! Tempranillo is planted
in around 88% of all vineyards with
garnacha, mazuelo and graciano making
up the rest. The habit of blending sub-
regions was entrenched up until 2019
when the local Consejo Regulador finally
allowed single vineyard wines (Viñedo
Singular) to be recognised on the label.
It makes me question why we don’t see
more tempranillo blends in Australia?
Master of Wine Phil Reedman thinks
that the grape works well enough on its
WITH the Federal government's half- winning waterfront property that has more at home, The Roosevelt Lounge in
price air tickets up for grabs and the long been popular because of its multi- Broadbeach picked up the Best Small Bar
arrival of winter, few regions are as million-dollar fit-out and amazing views in Queensland gong in 2018. I'd come
alluring as Australia's number one over Marina Mirage at Main Beach. It here just for the signature cocktails such
holiday destination - the Gold Coast. could take a while to peruse the 18- as Black Forest Manhattan and Nitro Pop,
Over the past few years, the GC, as page wine list and cocktail listings. Join but the gin selection is a true drawcard.
locals call it, has become a hub of the sundowner crowd for a G&T pairing Craft gins from all over Australia, the UK,
sophisticated restaurants, regular bars guide, Aussie bottlings from ever y Sweden and Japan can be teamed with
and wine bars that are light years away state or a bottle of Les Terres Blanche Fever Tree Tonics. Confronted by the book-
from its family-friendly dining image. Rothschild from St Emilion if you are thick drinks list of whiskies and wines, you
The area's fast-expanding wine bar feeling flush. might find yourself popping in daily during
scene is the best place to start a week- your stay.
long journey of discovery. If natural If great food and wine are top of your
and small-batch producer labels are
The area's fast-expanding vacation must-haves, the Gold Coast
your druthers, head for Rosella's in sports a laundry list of options these
Burleigh Heads. The decor is a deep
wine bar scene is the days. Orzo at The Oracle resor t in
dive into Australiana with native animal Broadbeach hits the spot with its modern
best place to start a
prints and Aussie floral arrangements Italian menu, starting with housemade
and contemporary menu classics like focaccia and whipped ricotta through
week-long journey of
Tasmanian beef tartare and Balmain starters like smoked burrata, asparagus,
bug and king prawn cocktail. Available discovery. carasau bread and chili oil, ravioli stuffed
by the bottle or glass, a large selection with Moreton bay bugs with chicken
of natural, minimal intervention and beurre blanc and an exceptional cheese
biodynamic wines are on offer, in addition The wine list at Moo Moo The Wine Bar selection. The Italian-dominated wine list
to some top-class Aussie pet nats. + Grill in Broadbeach has been tapped reaches its pinnacle in the Vina Riserva
With an Italian oenoteca air, Mr P.P.s Deli several times in the Australian Wine List bottlings such as Bruno Rocca Rabaja
and Rooftop Bar in Southport specialises of the Year Awards. A hefty 23 pages Barbaresco 2016.
in gourmet pizzas, pastas, deli meats veer through expertly made cocktails, a Jimmy Wah's in Burleigh Heads is a
and cheese platters. The site of an old global and local beer call and a seriously knockout. Chef Jake Cooley set off on
post office and postmaster-general's good champagne and sparkling wine a five-week motorcycle tour of Vietnam
residence for over 100 years, the multi- lineup. Whites, reds and rosés from all and came back inspired to create one of
level building offers great views from the over the world go well with some of the the finest modern Vietnamese menus in
outdoor rooftop. Just the place to toast best steaks on the Gold Coast, including the country. Think wok tossed squid, ong
sunset with a glass of Australian, French, the signature spice rubbed 1kg wagyu choy, chilli and lime and half-chicken,
Italian or New Zealand wine. rump roast. morning glory, kaffir lime, tamarind and
Boaties will enjoy a tipple at Glass If sink-into leather Chesterfield lounges coconut cream. The wine list is equally
Dining and Lounge Bar, an award- and red velvet banquettes make you feel good. Major international names mix it
with boutique wines and the staff are very With balmy temperatures even in winter,
helpful in offering suggestions for wine locals love their beer. The Lucky Squire
and food pairings. in Broadbeach, which opened last June,
Miss Mee at Nobby Beach took over is the Gold Coast's first James Squire
from Hellenika, long a standout of the brewery. One of the largest venues to
Gold Coast dining scene which shuttered open its doors in some time, the two
its doors in 2019. Southeast Asia is levels feature a microbrewery, bar and
also the main focus here in the big and restaurant that can accommodate 450
small sharing plates, including rice and people. Sharing is the guiding force
noodles, wagyu beef dumplings and behind the food menu, designed to go
pork hock deep-fried with master sauce. with the beers on tap, from mushroom
Wines vary from high-quality reasonable and truffle arancini to wood-fired whole
to the Ultra-Premium Back Vintage chicken.
Winestate Magazine
lineup, featuring 2008 Louis Roederer Bobs Beer, a recently opened brewery, @WinestateEd
Cristal and 2013 Le Ragnaie Fornace brewhouse and restaurant is just steps
Sangiovese. The great fit-out pumps up from the beach at Surfers Paradise. The
the buzzy atmosphere. name is an acronym of best of beers, not
Speaking of whisky, the Gold Coast the owner's name. There are core beers
delivers for malt and blend lovers, too. on tap beefed up with seasonal and
The Scottish Prince at Palm Beach has a limited-edition brews. A range of ANZ
bar lined with 150-plus whiskies. Named "guest beers" adds even more interest
after an ill-fated ship that ran aground for the suds lover.
nearby, it is not to be missed for its But for one of the most jaw-dropping
British-tinged menu, including haggis views of the area, make a beeline for
bon bons and Scotch fillet with buttery the Burleigh Pavilion in Burleigh Heads.
mashed potatoes. Known locally as the Pav, you can dine
The Whisky Lounge in Mudgeeraba on the terrace, eat at the Tropic with its
rightly bills itself as the place to come expertly cooked seafood menu or raise a
for a truly global whisky experience. A glass of Moet to the stunning panorama
highlight is the whisky flights featuring a before your eyes.
strong lineup from Talisker whiskies from
the Isle of Skye to strictly 18-year-olds
whiskies from some of Scotland's great
names. Over 130 whiskies from Australia,
Canada, Scotland, Ireland, the US and
Japan make a drive here more than worth
the effort.
MIKE ZEKULICH
ONE of Margaret River’s newer labels is as the new label is self-explanatory, “the are surrounded by Jarrah, Marri and State
rapidly building a quality name for itself. text deals with the vineyard; the wine and forest forming a huge natural wind break in
Called the Brash Road Vineyard taken from other significant label matters based on what times of severe wind.”
a road adjacent to their 50hectare property, others are telling us constantly. It appears Chris said textbook soil profiles are a
principals – Chris and Anne Carter –have our Brash Road Vineyard is considered to be perfect combination of gravel and loam over
won numerous awards including a host in the top 10-20% of vineyards in Margaret deep clay. “While we aren’t in Wilyabrup,
of four- and five-star entries in judging for River – a claim which is supported by our we have strong sections of Wilyabrup soils
Winestate in little more than a decade. grape grading where we are receiving the featuring throughout the property. These
The couple are both from non fine wine highest ‘A’ on our cabernet, shiraz, malbec gravel/loam soils result in grapes growing
backgrounds but that has done little to and chardonnay,” Chris said. in what is a virtual hydroponic environment.
impede their progress. In addition, the “This is due to the climate, which we all “Block selection has been a 20-year labour
quality wines they produce can be found benefit from, but our position is high on the of love (and money),” Chris elaborated.
under other high-profile labels which Naturalist Ridge creating a further level of “Over the two decades, we have planted,
have made a significant positive impact micro-climate that generates beautiful cool replanted and grafted to the stage where we
to their business bottom line. nights balancing the warm temperate days. now have each variety growing in its perfect
A subtle change to its bottle label has seen If there is a breeze, we will get it no matter property location.
it become the Brash Road Vineyard instead what the direction. “Shiraz is planted on a south facing slope,
of the previously branded Brash Vineyard. “The altitude of vineyard is what we at the bottom of that slope. A beautifully
Chris Carter says the reasoning was to believe is a key factor in the quality of fruit. protected environment from vine rows that
avoid the constant question ‘why Brash?’ While the vines are high on the ridge they were several metres wider than normal
CHARLES GENT
ORANGE, the wine region located on a plateau 120 kilometres Rex, son to Carmelo’s son Leo, was sent off to South Australia to
west of the Blue Mountains and dominated by the 1500-metre study a Bachelor of Applied Science in Oenology at Roseworthy
peak of extinct volcano Mount Canobolas, is among Australia’s Agricultural College immediately after finishing school in 1978.
highest altitude winegrowing areas. The term “cool climate” “Roseworthy had its own winery and distillery and was rated as
is very literal here: it is not uncommon for the cellar doors of one of the great wine courses of the world, along with UC Davis,
Orange’s 20-odd wineries to display photos of their vineyards Stellenbosch and Bordeaux,” Rex says.
under a blanket of snow. Rex did his practical placements at Orlando in the Barossa
Rex D’Aquino of Highland Heritage Estate remembers winter and at Jim Barry’s in Clare. On graduation, he found himself
terms at the local primary school in the 1960s being interrupted part of the wave of young winemakers who were to play Cupid
by closures due to falls of up to a foot of snow. And while climate to the Australian public’s burgeoning love affair with table wine.
change has since rendered such extremes of cold weather less A number of other influential New South Wales winemakers,
frequent, savage frosts remain one of the major challenges including Philip Shaw, Mike DeGaris and John Hordern,
for the region’s grapegrowers: Highland Heritage’s vineyards graduated from Roseworthy at around the same time.
are equipped with sprinklers, not for irrigation, but to keep the Back in Orange, Rex initially followed Carmelo’s model, shipping
depredations of frost at bay. in grapes from areas such as Cowra to make riesling and muscat.
“It’s not unusual for us to get frosts in about nine out of 10 But in 1991, with Orange’s reputation as a producer of high-quality
years,” Rex says. “Last year, we had frosts up to mid-December, table wine beginning to gather momentum, the D’Aquino family
which is crazy.” bought the Highland Heritage Estate property, and began a
Rex D’Aquino’s grandfather, Carmelo, was a post-First World rapid expansion of its modest vineyards. The estate, which sits
War immigrant from Sicily who moved from Sydney to Orange in at around 980 metres above sea level, now boasts nearly 15
1946 to establish a liquor retail and distribution business. The hectares under vines, divided between the varieties of sauvignon
early trade, with its minimum two-gallon licence, was largely in blanc, riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, shiraz and merlot, with
beer and fortified wines, the favourite tipples of the time. Carmelo cabernet franc and prosecco as the latest entries.
also set up a winery, using grapes bought from nearby vineyards Asked to pick Highland Heritage Estate’s flagship wines –
at Nashdale and Canowindra to make his own wines from muscat it’s akin to asking a parent which is their favourite child – Rex
and table grapes. D’Aquino nominates the much-awarded 2019 Mt Canobolas
favourite child." production, Rex says that Orange has, in recent years, “gone nuts”.
“There’s a lot of really good wine, and the next generation of very
talented young winemakers is coming through. Our wine reputation
is getting better and better – we keep kicking goals and winning
awards. It’s all small volume stuff – there’s no thousands of acres
here, and the actual GI of Orange is quite tight.
“I think Orange is going to have a long history. Even with global
warming adding a couple of degrees of heat, our wines are going
to be great.”
At 62, Rex D’Aquino is busier than ever, dividing his time between
the winery and the D’Aquino Group’s wholesale liquor business,
with its seven retail outlets.
Rex says that the continuing tariff standoff with China has had
little direct effect on Highland Heritage Estate, as they sold none of
their premium wine into the Chinese market. He says it is, however,
a timely reminder of the constant change in the wine industry and
the consequent need for adaptation.
“The world keeps changing, whether you like it or not,” Rex says.
“Going forward, I think it’s important to look after your local
business, because people come to Orange and the locals
recommend them where to go. You have to look after your
domestic business, your own backyard, too. You have to push
it and work it – it doesn’t happen by itself. You’ve got to be, as
I call it, on the tools all the time: talking to people, pushing the
brand, getting in people’s faces.
“Everyone’s making good wine – you’ve got to try and stand out
somehow.”
THE 2020
AUSTRIAN
WINE VINTAGE
A CHALLENGING,
YET REWARDING YEAR
2020 will be remembered as a growing season of opposites, in
which rain followed sun and cold followed warmth. Combined
with the specific features of the regions, this called for a great
deal of intuition and patience from winegrowers. And they have
been rewarded – we can expect some invigoratingly fresh
whites, finely balanced reds and some sweet rarities.
BERNHARD SIMS
LONG-TIME award-winning West Australian wine writer Mike The first commercial wine produced in WA is acknowledged as
Zekulich has decided to retire after more than 40 years as being from the 1834 vintage at Olive Farm – then owned by botanist
Winestate’s regular WA contributor. Now aged 84, and still loving settler Thomas Waters.
the task, Mike however, now feels it is time to hang up the Tastevin It was presented at the annual general meeting of the Agricultural
and just enjoy the industry wherever he may be. Society where it was much lauded drawing the comment it was
The decision to take a step back and devote time to more hoped production of the wine would be increased such that bottles
leisurely pursuits was inspired by a recent trip with a small group could be placed on every table in the Colony.
of dedicated Perth wine lovers who wanted to re-visit key Swan Olive Farm is still operating in the Valley to this very day but in a
Valley producers after some years of often taking in more trendy more central location. Its wines are now made by the Yurisich family.
new WA South West areas. They also wanted to know how much Industry changes over the years have since covered all facets
if any their own tastes had changed over the years. There were of grape growing, dried fruit production, fresh table grapes for
six in the group including three well-known medicos and invited domestic and export markets and of course wine.
business enthusiasts keen to see how the Swan Valley – once the Gone are the low yielding currant vineyards that once flourished
heart of WA viticulture and winemaking – had relinquished the title from the river to the foothills of the Darling Ranges, victims of
to the high-flying Margaret River region. the loss of yields in poor sandy soils. Key European buyers then
Mike Zekulich was also invited along to include his views on the returned to supplies from Turkey and Greece that had been
long rich wine pioneering history of the Swan as well as his own decimated by World War II.
family’s dedicated commitment to important industry affairs. Exports of fresh table grapes packed in granulated cork
The group was led by leading WA dermatologist specialist and sent to Asian markets also provided WA grape growers with
wine lover Hannes Gebauer who concluded at the end of the 3/4- valuable income from the high-quality fresh fruit the Swan
day mid-week tour in which numerous top quality table wines and could so readily produce while new grape varieties boosted
some very fine fortifieds were presented. all production.
What a bonus with Swan Valley vineyards and wineries on Keen investors waiting to move into the pick of cool-climate grape
the very edge of Perth City. This meant smaller crowds at the growing production such as Margaret River and the Great Southern
tastings – easing concerns about the possibility of dreaded brought with them great enthusiasm and a solid commitment to
Covid-19 infections. wine quality.
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Few then could have imagined the heights they would scale,
often being hailed as among the nation’s best.
The pioneers however, had set the platform, earning the respect
of those who were to follow.
"The decision to take a step back Later changes were based on the advent of new varieties like
chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, further enhancing wine
watermelon relish and raspberries, queso Over at Paddington it's a second venue
fresco and salsa verde - they are so also for the owners of Ngon, a modern
packed with flavour, charriness from the Vietnamese bistro housed in a pretty,
plancha, piquancy from the marinades original shop on Given Terrace. The menu
that the sauces, as tempting as they are, is a compilation of typically fresh flavours of
are hardly necessary. The charcoal beef Vietnam divided into small and large plates.
with blueberry and coriander is equally Recently owner Tuan Nguyen and his
delicious and this one handles the fiery team launched Given Kitchen and Bar
Bhuta sauce nicely. up the road in another quaint shop front.
Raw yellowtail kingfish arrives in an earthy The long narrow room features a banquette
bowl amid a heady blend of coconut, onion running down the right-hand side with dark
& lime as well as a mix of both habanero wood tables simply adorned with ceramic
and merkin chilli. vases of various colours. The menu for
The sides are well worth indulging in - breakfast and lunch is strikingly different
BACK in the day, a trip along West End’s crunchy tostadas served with guacamole, to that of dinner and that is because there
Hardgrave Road offered up a variety of mole madre, eggplant, pico de gallo and are two different chefs at the helm day and
old-fashioned blocks of flats, houses with sauce roja are all delicious, especially when night. Chef Daniel Real injects funky fusion
grapevines and veg-laden front yards and served together. vibes into his morning creations - think
a sprinkling of second-hand bookstores The cocktail list leaves nothing to the bubble tea panna cotta with chocolate
and thrift shops. The landmark of the road tequila and mezcal lovers' imagination. It granola, karaage chicken benny with
was the Rialto Theatre, a lovely old corner begins with a not so classic margherita and sriracha hollandaise and sauteed kale or
structure built in the 1920’s. ends with a mezcal negroni with campari hangover fried rice with a pork sausage
A couple of traditional Vietnamese and grapefruit bitters. and a fried egg.
restaurants came along in the ‘60’s offering Brisbane has been lacking good Mexican At night the sophistication and finesse
rudimentary dining rooms and menus as and Mama Taco is well and truly filling ramp up under the direction of chef,
long as your arm were also popular. These that gap. Mama Taco, 4/59 Hardgrave Wilhelm Gee with dishes like whole
venues dabbled in various Asian cuisines Road, West End. No Phone. Visit www. squid, green chilli sauce and garlic salt,
as well as their own and were family run mamataco.com.au. wagyu rump with Vietnamese chimichurri,
often with three generations working There’s no such shortage of good Italian charcoal BBQ chicken with lime and chilli
together on any given day. these days however, but the same team at and a deliciously seared duck breast with
The good news is that the two main Mama Taco also runs Mario’s just a few red curry and fried shallots. Given Kitchen
players, Trang’s and Quan Thanh are doors down. and Bar, 257a Given Terrace Paddington.
still there. The menus are still vast and wide Simple decor with olive green velvet bar Phone (07) 2103 5534.
ranging, they’re still family-run and they still stools, a red feature wall and polished wood
offer the same value for money that they gabled ceiling, the pocket-sized venue
always did. oozes charm and an easy warmth.
The difference is the neighbours, and the The bar is stocked with a plethora of
neighbourhood, now some of the highest Italian and Australian wines bolstered by a
priced inner-city housing in Brisbane. A reserve list of big-end-of-town barolo’s and
few doors up from Trangs and part of the barbaresco’s - there’s also 50 Grappas and
theatre is Mama Taco, a highly anticipated 50 Ameros to choose from as you sample
Mexican bolthole, delivered by the creators the experimental dishes chef Raffaele
of Holloway and Luigi’s (both now Percichetti creates on a nightly basis.
defunct), also in West End. Several dishes have already become firm
Three colourful bottles of chilli sauce are favourites and regulars are dictating that
deposited on our polished wood banquette they cannot be removed from the menu.
table along with the offer of still or sparkling And who would remove lobster lasagna,
water. “Think of them as stop lights,” says funghi calzone fritto, and scampi crudo with
our waiter. “The green (Merkin chilli) is go buffalo milk stracciatella dusted with freeze
- not too spicy, you can enjoy plenty of it. dried raspberry from the menu?
The orange (Bhuta) is a little spicier and the There’s a second room that can be hired
red (habaneros) speaks for itself!” for functions and a couple of black velvet
All three are fresh and vibrant and packed armchairs that sit on the footpath, the
with heat and flavour, but when the tacos perfect spot for an aperitivo after the rigours
arrive - the first one is a king prawn with of the day. Top left: Tequila from Mama Taco.
Above right: The Beef taco at Mama Taco.
OPEN 7 DAYS
Your local one-stop shop
for any occasion!
Weekly Masterclasses
Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind:
to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers.
In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is
notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and
various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings.
A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded
Wines are invited from any producer, final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardless
provided that they meet the criteria a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions are
of the class being judged. The class Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published according
may be a regional, style or new release is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising
tasting and generally the wines must be is taken or not.
available for consumers to purchase, The biggest judging system
although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more The judges
wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges.
any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and
Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence
Winestate carries out the judging Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with
using Australian capital city wine show show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a
procedures; the wines are not known three-person panel for each flight will
to the judges. The three judges taste Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical
the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expertise and often a marketing/retail
without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which expert who knows consumer tastes.
this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, Often one or more of the judges are
scores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ masters of wine with vast international
re-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience, and most judges have
agreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade experience at major Australian wine
the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered shows. We are also aware of expertise.
is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce If we are judging a region, for example,
above and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, we will have a winemaker judge from
is 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; that region because that person knows
wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent the local style. We balance that with
drinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine a judge from outside the region and
not gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind generally someone with broad and
wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice to mature experience.
HOW WE COMPARE
International 20
Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal 100 Point System
Point System
★★★★★ Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 97 - 100
★★★★1/2 Excellent High Silver 18 - 18.4 95 - 96
★★★★ Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 93 - 94
★★★1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 91 - 92
★★★ Good Bronze 15.5 - 16.4 89 - 90
Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating
system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist.
2002 $2,000
2003 Not Released
2004 $2,000
E. Guigal La Turque
2005 $5,700
Hermitage
Shiraz 2006 $2,100
1990 $800
1990 $150 2007 $3,200 S
1991 $850 S
1991 $130 2008 $3,000
1992 $270
1992 $80
Louis Roederer 1993 $240 Visit our website and keep
1993 $90 Chateau
Cristal 1994 $300
1994 $120 d’Yquem Sauternes up to date with all our latest
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1995 $110 S 1990 $800
1996 $260
1996 $160 1993 $220 1991 $450
1997 $450 S
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1997 $85 T 1994 $340 1993 $340
1998 $160 S 1995 $300 1994 $360
1998 $700 tastings and events.
1996 $440 1999 $850 S
1999 $100 1995 $500 T
2000 $80 S 1997 $450 1996 $540
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1999 $340 2001 $520
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2002 $450 into our exciting regular
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2002 $300 2003 $850 competitions.
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2004 $240 2004 $560
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2005 $600
2005 $130 2001 $900
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2006 $130 2002 $500
2008 $120 S Rothschild 2003 $600
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2009 $130 1990 $650 S 2004 $500
2010 $140 S 1991 $550 2005 $650
1990 $330 date with all our latest
1991 $220
2011 $110 1992 $230 2008 $600
1992 Not Released wine info, tastings and
1993 $550 T
1994 $340 Domaine
1993 $210 events on facebook, twitter
1995 $520 1994 $260
1996 $800 S
de la Romanee
1995 $210 and instagram.
Conti La Tache
1997 $280 1996 $300
1990 $7,400
Para Liqueur 1998 $420 1997 $380 T
1991 $1,900
1878 $2,200 S 1999 $750 S 1998 $300
1992 $1,250
1879 $2,500 S 2000 $1,150 1993 $2,200
1999 $300 S Winestate Magazine
1880 $1,800 S 2001 $450 2000 $250 T
1881 $1,800 S 2002 $500
1994 $1,600
2001 $250 @WinestateEd
1995 $3,500 S
1882 $1,800 S 2003 $600 2002 Not Released
1996 $3,100 S
1887 $1,200 S 2004 $850 S 2003 Not Released
1997 $1,900
1893 $1,200 S 2005 $1,200 2004 $310
1998 $2,200
1899 $1,200 S 2006 $950 S 2005 Not Released
1999 $5,000
1901 $700 S 2008 Not Released 2007 $240
2000 $1,500
1908 $600 S 2009 $2,000 2001 $2,000
1910 $500 S Tenuta
2002 $3,800 S
1922 $350 Chateau Latour Dell’Ornellaia
2003 $2,800
1925 $600 1990 $1,250 Ornellaia
2004 $2,500
1927 $290 1991 $600 1991 $320
2005 $5,500 S
1930 $140 1992 $350 1992 $105
2006 $1,700
1933 $140 S 1993 $440 1993 $125
2007 $1,200
1939 $90 S 1994 $460 1994 $130
2008 $2,400
1944 $80 S 1995 $1,200 S 1995 $130
2009 $5,000
1947 $75 S 1996 $1,400 S 1996 $180
1997 $650 S 1997 $350 S
Domaine Armand
1998 $350 S
IMPORTED 1998 $520 Rousseau
1999 $600 1999 $200
WINES Chambertin
2000 $450 S
2000 $1,600 Clos de Beze
2001 $700 2001 $260
1990 $2,500 S
2002 $600 2002 $280
1991 $200
2003 $1,700 2003 $150
1992 $220
2004 $600 2004 $280 S
1993 $700 S
2005 $1,300 2005 $200
Moet et Chandon 1994 $500
2006 $1,100 2006 $220 S
Cuvee Dom 1995 $560
2007 $750 2007 $220
Perignon 1996 $650
2008 $1,100 2008 $150
1980 $180 T 1997 $280
2009 $190
1982 $280 S 1998 $400
1983 $190 S Chateau Petrus 1999 $800
1990 $5,500 Vega Sicilia Unico
1985 $200 2000 $320
1991 Not Released Gran Reserva
1988 $260 2001 $700 S
1992 $1,300 1990 $560
1990 $320 T 2002 $680
1993 $1,000 1991 $420
1992 $240 2003 $600
1994 $2,800 1994 $550
1993 $260 2004 $440
1995 $4,000 S 1995 $420
1995 $220 2005 $1,200 S
1996 $2,400 1996 $360
1996 $370 S 2006 $600
1997 $1,000 1998 $420
1998 $260 2007 Not Released
1998 $4,800 S 1999 $550 S
1999 $190 2009 $1,100
1999 $1,250 2000 $360
2000 $190 S 2010 $1,100
2000 $6,000 2002 $420
2002 $200 2003 $294
2003 $190 2001 $4,500 S
2004 $170 www.winestate.com.au
May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 49
travelbriefs
WINSOR DOBBIN
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
JUDGES
Dylan Lee Duncan Lloyd Amelia Anspach
Winemaker for Bird in Winemaker at Coriole Winemaker at Angove
Hand Wines, for the Vineyards. Formerly with Family Winemakers.
past seven years. He’s Logan Wines, Mudgee. Previously vintaged with
vintaged in Northern Vintages completed in Cape Mentelle and overseas
Rhone and Canada, Chateau Neuf du Pape with Domaine Chandon
along with Margaret (Rhone) and locally (Argentina), Domaine
River, McLaren Vale and Mosswood (Western Serenc (California) and
the Swan Valley. He has Australia) and Josef Kendermanne (Mosel).
completed the Australian Chromy (Tasmania). Associate judge at Riverland,
Wine Assessment Associate judge at the Rutherglen and Cowra wine
Course (AWAC). Mudgee wine show. shows.
E: wine@whicherridge.com.au
P: 0448 531 399
W: www.whicherridge.com.au
WhicherRidgeWines
whicherridgewines
Scan the QR
code to watch
our story video
on YouTube
BEST OF THE WEST
Charnwood Estate in Mudgee is a small player kicking big goals with its Shiraz and
Merlot. As small and boutique as wineries come, Charnwood demanded everyone’s
attention when its 2009 Charlie’s Row Merlot won against some higher profile wineries
in the 2011 Winewise Championship.
Charnwood Estate is located in the Mudgee wine region of NSW; located on a historic
property just 5 minutes from the centre of Mudgee and nestled at the foot of the hills
in the delightful Cudgegong Valley.
At Charnwood, we specialise in red wines and are particularly proud of our Shiraz
which keeps going from strength to strength.
Like a good wine with your favourite dish, Qoin digital currency
is the perfect pairing for your business.
Qoin will open an exciting new world for you to explore. It is
innovative, progressive and easily transactional.
qoin.world
travelbriefs
WINSOR DOBBIN
were chosen with site, aspect and elevation direct from Sydney to Canberra; a private Melbourne-based craft beverages business
in mind and include the highest vineyard in helicopter ride landing directly beside the Founders First (known in the industry as
Orange at 1070 metres. Shaw vines; seated wine tasting; and three- Mighty Craft) acquired the prominent wine
Printhie Wines makes the méthode course lunch with your choice of Shaw wines country gateway site in October last year.
traditionnelle Swift sparkling range, in the private cellar before returning home “The Mighty” will become a hub for craft
considered to be one of Australia’s finest (from $2750 per person). drinks as well as home to local craft beer
and awarded best bubbles at the NSW Wine producer Foghorn Brewery.
Awards for the last three years. PLENTY HAPPENING IN THE Chef Sean Townsend formerly of hatted
“It’s very much a family affair that focuses on CAPITAL Muse Restaurant, Muse Kitchen and more
the quality of our cool-climate wines above all recently the Prince of Merewether has taken
else,” says Dave Swift. THE Australian national capital of Canberra over the kitchen.
The Printhie Sparkling Masterclass offers has a vibrant wine and food scene that is “For me being able to return to Pokolbin was
guests a guided walking tour of the vineyard, constantly evolving. The newest kid on the something I knew I always wanted to do, and
providing a rare insight into the process of block is tucked away in the city centre's the opportunity with the Mighty Craft group is
creating sparkling, hosted by one of the outskirts in the Campbell 5 precinct. not only around producing great food, but also
estate’s sparkling specialists, including a Here you will find Paranormal Wines, allows me huge personal growth,” he said.
private tasting of the Swift sparkling range. a bottle shop and bar specialising in
natural wines and left-field wines. Pick
Guests can also explore the estate during POKOLBIN’S TOPS!
an intimate Printhie Picnic, which includes a from a selection of local Canberra district
wines and a wide range of Australian and POKOLBIN, meanwhile, was named by
guided tasting and a picnic hamper filled with
international drops. Stay for a while and sip online booking company Wotif.com as its top
delicious sweet and savoury treats. Using
on a drink of your choice, order a snack and destination in New South Wales and second
a map of the property, guests can select a
take in the relaxed surroundings, or choose nationally behind Cairns.
private place to relax among the vineyards
a bottle to take home. It is open Wednesdays The 2021 Wotif Aussie Town of the Year
or the heritage apple orchard.
to Sundays, 11am-8pm. awards are based on a data index which
The region of Orange is renowned
The Eat Canberra team is back and ready considers a destination’s accommodation
for producing impeccable wines, with
to help visitors discover some of the best quality, affordability, and traveller satisfaction
vineyards like Printhie taking advantage
eats and hidden gems in Canberra. Join on Wotif.com from January 2020 - September
of the unique viticulture offered by the high
them on a Taste of Braddon food adventure 2020. This year’s winning destinations, which
elevations created by the extinct volcano,
and eat your way around and sample tasty NSW dominated overall, have been awarded
Mount Canobolas.
food and drink at five venues with a four-hour based on their accommodation quality,
“This results in consistently high quality,
walking tour along the Lonsdale 'Eat' Street affordability, and traveller satisfaction.
distinctive wines,” says Dave. Discover
in Braddon. From $145 per person. Commenting on the award, Cessnock
more at www.ultimatewineryexperiences.
The latest hot spot to eat can be found in a City Mayor Bob Pynsent said: “it’s no
com.au.
laneway behind the historic Sydney Building surprise Pokolbin is the top destination in
off Northbourne Avenue. The Verity Lane our state. We are home to so many amazing
TAKING EXPERIENCES TO
Market, meanwhile, is a chef-driven food tourism operators who provide a first-class
NEW HEIGHTS experience, surrounded by our natural
hall with three kitchens Ramen Daddy, Super
FAMILY-OWNED and operated Shaw Bao, and Pizza Artigiana serving the hungry beauty.”
Wines has launched two new luxury tasting hordes. The art deco cocktail style Verity Bar Amy Cooper, CEO of the Hunter Valley
experiences to take wine appreciation to new offers an extensive list of drinks. In time, the Wine & Tourism Association added: “We are
heights in Murrumbateman. laneway offerings will expand. It is open for delighted that Pokolbin has been recognised
The Premium Private Cellar Tasting includes dinner Tuesdays to Sundays until late and by the awards, particularly as they recognise
four Reserve wines to try using a set of Riedel lunch Thursdays to Saturday. the positive reviews of travellers.
varietal glasses — yours to take home after “After a challenging 2020, we congratulate
the session — plus a glass of estate wine the businesses who have worked so hard
ARRIVALS AND
and a vineyard platter ($275 per person; to adapt to the changing needs of travellers
DEPARTURES
Wednesdays and Thursdays only). and who have offered a warm welcome to the
More exotic is The Shaw Escape, including THE Hunter Valley has said farewell to Potters many new visitors to our region in 2020.”
a private plane ride for up to six people Hotel and hello to The Mighty Hunter. Opposite page: Vini Divini 1000+ wine wall.
This page: Shaw Wines new cellar door.
WINES OF NSW
Our "number one" state performed well again here, showing Capital Wines Centennial
The Speaker Vineyards Reserve
the diversity of products across the many climes involved. Not Canberra Sparkling Southern Highlands
surprisingly, world class semillons were again a feature with Chardonnay Pinot Pinot Gris
Noir 2013 ★★★ 2019 ★★★1/2
chardonnay performing as well. A big line up of shiraz across Complex aromas of Nicely evolving wine
truffles and spices with with savoury secondary
various vintages showed character with a surprisingly good a good spectrum of characters and a finesse
result from shiraz blends. flavours. $35 of floral flavours. $35
Tempus Two
PINOT GRIS/ Varietal NSW Pinot
GRIGIO Grigio 2020 ★★★
Musky perfumed pear
5 TASTED fragrances and some
3 AWARDED lovely fresh floral
flavours. $15
SPARKLING Centennial
Vineyards Miller's A few good examples
8 TASTED
7 AWARDED
Southern Highlands offering easy drinking RIESLING
Sparkling Pinot and ranging from flinty 5 TASTED
Meunier Rosé
NV ★★★ to pure varietal styles. 4 AWARDED
A solid group of
An acid driven style with
sparkling wines. “The strawberry and cream A good result here
better ones here aromas and green apple with lovely varietal
were well made with flavours. $35
characters on display
winemakers paying
Iron Gate Estate and one excellent aged
attention to texture,” Hunter Valley Blanc example.
said one judge. de Blanc 2020 ★★★
A simple pleasant drink Tamburlaine Organic
with light floral aromas Wines Reserve
and a bright fresh apple/ Orange Riesling
citrus palate. $30 2004 ★★★★★
A remarkable wine
Gartelmann Hunter for its age. Lovely,
Valley Blanc de evolved toasty/glacé
Blancs 2020 ★★★ fruit fragrances and
Slight greenness to the a powerful, soft, full
Colmar Estate buttery nose with nice flavoured palate still
Orange Sparkling intensity of lemon/citrus showing great drive and
Chardonnay Pinot flavours. $38 energy. $40
Noir 2015 ★★★★★
A lovely bouquet of PepperGreen Estate
peach and pear aromas Brut Methode
with nice toastiness Traditionelle NSW
Southern Highlands Trentham Estate
adding complexity. Grown Murray
The palate is still bright Chardonnay Pinot
Noir Pinot Meunier Darling Pinot Gris
and vibrant showing 2020 ★★★1/2
good drive and energy. 2018 ★★★
Ripe pear nose with Lovely aromatic lift to
Classy! $60 the nose and a fleshy
subtle spiciness and full
flavoured buttery/toasty lychee/sweet citrus
Colmar Estate driven palate. Very
Orange Brut Rosé palate. $60
approachable. $18
2017 ★★★★
Very attractive bright
fragrant aromas. A tight
palate with good drive
and persistence of lemon/
citrus flavours. $45
RidgeView Wines RidgeView Wines McGuigan Cellar Ross Hill Wines Ross Hill Wines
Generations Reserve Generations Reserve Select Tumbarumba Monocle Orange Maya & Max Orange
Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay
Semillon Semillon 2013 ★★★ 2019 ★★★★★ 2020 ★★★★ 2020 ★★★
2009 ★★★1/2 A vibrant and still very A well-made and Medium bodied Melons and peaches
A golden wine with good youthful semillon with complex style of with subtle musk/fig lift off the nose and
buttery toasty characters herbaceous/green bean- chardonnay with a fragrances and flavours varietal flavours fill the
and nice bottle age. Drink like fruit. $60 vibrant straw-like hue, of stonefruits on the mouth. $30
soon! $80 fine flinty fragrances and well balanced, textured,
Coolangatta Estate seamless integration of palate. $35 Tempus Two Copper
Pepper Tree Wine Wollstonecraft fruit, oak and acid on the Wilde Hunter Valley
Of NSW Semillon Shoalhaven Coast palate. $25 Mortimer's Reserve Chardonnay
Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011 ★★★ Orange Chardonnay 2019 ★★★
2020 ★★★ A very enjoyable McGuigan Personal 2019 ★★★★ Peach-like bouquet
An herbaceous lift to the lemon cheesecake of Reserve Hunter A delicate peaches and with nutty notes and a
musky perfumed nose a semillon with nice Ridge Hunter Valley cream nose and some flavoursome oak driven
with gooseberry-like toastiness. $60 Chardonnay subtle oak seamlessly palate. $22
flavours. $20 2019 ★★★★1/2 integrated with the fruit
An interesting wine on the palate. $45 RidgeView Wines
Tempus Two Pewter
CHARDONNAY with good complexity Impressions Hunter
Hunter Valley 23 TASTED – drinking well now! RidgeView Wines Valley Chardonnay
Semillon 2019 ★★★ 18 AWARDED Smells of toasted Impressions Hunter 2019 ★★★
Still youthful with subtle hazelnut and peach Valley Chardonnay Simple easy drinking
melon fruit, nice floral lift with stonefruit and oak 2015 ★★★★ style with green bean-
A strong consistent
and good acid line. $40 flavours. $50 An elegant chardonnay like characters and hints
class of varietal with nice nutty peach of oatmeal. $30
Audrey Wilkinson chardonnays with fragrances, minerally
The Ridge Hunter good, well-balanced, citrus flavours and Ross Hill Wines
Valley Semillon subtle bottle age. $60 Pinnacle Orange
2019 ★★★ flavours. “A few were Chardonnay
Delicate fruit lift to the over ripe and would Pepper Tree Orange 2019 ★★★
nose and a lemon cream have performed better Chardonnay Luscious easy drinking
palate with balancing 2019 ★★★1/2 wine with an attractive
if the fruit had been
acidity. $45 Pleasant varietal tinned stonefruit and
picked earlier,” noted characters of melons and hazelnut character. $40
Coolangatta Estate one judge. “Different peaches with tropical
Wollstonecraft nuances. Nice lingering Saddler's Creek
regions produced
Shoalhaven Coast flavours. $20 Wines Alessandro
Semillon 2016 ★★★ different styles. Reserve
Easy drinking wine with There were the cool Gartelmann Lisa Tumbarumba NSW
some lemon/citrus fruit climate, restrained Reserve Orange Chardonnay
and toasty secondary Region Chardonnay 2019 ★★★
characters. $45 fruit characters of 2018 ★★★1/2 Floral aromatics, melon
the Tumbarumba and A complexity of peach fruit flavours, oatmeal
Tempus Two Pewter Orange areas to the and sweet spicy aromas elements and minerally
Hunter Valley with a solid oak and acidity. $45
ripe melon and peach
Semillon 2015 ★★★ stonefruit palate. $45
A beautiful zesty wine characters evident from Trentham Reserve
with years in it yet. the warmer climes of Tamburlaine Tumbarumba
Lifted perfumed nose Robert Stein Organic Wines Chardonnay
the Hunter Valley.
and crisp finish. $40 Reserve Mudgee On The Grapevine 2018 ★★★
Chardonnay Orange Hunter A well-made, complex,
2018 ★★★★1/2 Valley Chardonnay oak driven style with
An attractive textured 2020 ★★★ a peach-like fruit
wine with a nicely A nicely balanced character. $28
developing complexity straightforward
of peaches, lychees chardonnay in the fig
and toasted cashews and stonefruit spectrum.
with some funky $20
elements. $50
J UDG ES - D AY 1
Janelle Badrice Reid Bosward James Evers
Owner/operator and Winemaker for Kaesler Senior Winemaker,
winemaker at Z Wines Wines. Formerly Nepenthe Wines and
in the Barossa Valley. worked in the Hunter Australian Vintage (SA
Associate judge, Valley for six years with Premiums for 11 years).
Hunter Valley wine Tyrrell’s, McGuigan Previously winemaker
show and Adelaide Wines and Petersons. at Mildara, Coonawarra
wine show. WSET Has spent five years and Glendonbrook and
level 3 and advanced in the Barossa with Rothbury in the Hunter
wine assessment Cellarmasters and now Valley.
course. Vintages in Kaesler. Completed
Hunter Valley, Sonoma, two years’ work in
Tuscany and Puligny France.
Montrachet (Burgundy).
Trentham Estate Tempus Two McGuigan Personal Robert Stein McGuigan Cellar
Grown Murray Varietal NSW Shiraz Reserve Bainton Reserve Mudgee Select Hunter Valley
Darling Shiraz 2019 ★★★ Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2018 ★★★★ Shiraz 2018 ★★★
2019 ★★★1/2 Shy black fruit nose and 2017 ★★★★★ A well-made shiraz, Subdued aromas with an
Cherry cola nose with silky soft palate with A brooding whopper of “not overworked” with oak dominated palate,
delicate lavender notes simple fruit flavours. a wine that’s rich with attractive varietal fruit, good fruit and high
and an intense nicely $15 lovely dark berry fruits “pantry” spices and an tannins. $30
textured spicy plum supported by some herbal finish. $60
palate. $18 Tamburlaine Organic obvious but very classy Centennial
Wines On The oak. “Lots of like!” McGuigan Personal Vineyards Reserve
Grapevine Central enthused one judge. $80 Reserve Bainton Orange Shiraz
Ranges Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz 2018 ★★★
2019 ★★★ McGuigan Personal 2018 ★★★★ Subtle rhubarb aromas
An elegant peppery fruit Reserve Vanessa A nicely composed wine with nice blackberry
style with slightly green Vale Hunter Valley with a subdued nose flavours and slightly
tannins and “pinched” Shiraz 2017 ★★★★★ and a balance of both “prickly” acid. $34
acid. $20 Lovely colour with inky ripe and green varietal
purple hues, dark ripe flavours. $80 Saddler's Creek
Pepper Tree Limited fruit fragrances and Wines Hunter Valley
Release Orange a generous velvety RidgeView Wines NSW Shiraz
Shiraz 2019 ★★★ smooth palate that fills Impressions Hunter 2018 ★★★
Plums and cherries the mouth with flavours Valley Shiraz A nose of chocolate,
lift off the nose with a of chocolate and 2017 ★★★★ red fruit and vanilla
subtle youthful red fruit licorice. $80 Dark purple wine with with a sweet oak
palate. $35 confectionery fruit driven palate. $36
McGuigan Personal fragrances and an
Grove Estate The Reserve Vanessa intense concentration of Tempus Two Copper
Cellar Block Hilltops Vale Hunter Valley ripe fruit flavours. $60 Gundagai Shiraz
Shiraz 2019 ★★★ Shiraz 2016 ★★★
Stalky herbal aromas 2018 ★★★★1/2 McGuigan Cellar Nose is earthy, toasty
and dry herbal flavours “A great integrated Select Hunter Valley and slightly leathery with
with cedary oak. $40 package,” according to Shiraz 2017 ★★★1/2 good depth of stewed
one judge. Earthy nose Generous caramelized fruit flavours. $30
Highland Heritage McGuigan Personal with hints of raspberries aromas with an elegant
Estate Generations Reserve Vanessa and chocolate and a “slinky smooth” palate Tempus Two Copper
Orange Shiraz Vale Hunter Valley tightly coiled berry and and talc-like tannins. $30 Hunter Valley Shiraz
2019 ★★★1/2 Shiraz 2019 ★★★ chocolate palate. $80 2014 ★★★
An elegant shiraz with A serious wine with Cox Family Wines Earthy mushroom
nice core of raspberry- brambly fruit, some Mortimer's Chestnut Hilltops Shiraz character to the nose
like varietal characters herbs, spices and Garth Orange Shiraz 2018 ★★★ and a soft, pleasant,
and lightweight chocolate. $80 2018 ★★★★ Elegant plum nose savoury palate. $30
tannins. $22 Stewed plum nose and surprisingly long
and good depth of spicy fruit palate with a Briar Ridge Dairy
Mortimer's Chris SHIRAZ prune-like fruit on an peppery finish. $30 Hill Single Vineyard
Derrez Orange 2018 & OLDER uncomplicated but well- Hunter Valley Shiraz
Shiraz 2019 ★★★1/2 structured palate. $38 2014 ★★★
Nicely focused wine 23 TASTED Rich and spicy
layered with caramel, 17 AWARDED PepperGreen Estate Christmas cake of a
chocolate, pepper and Regional Collection wine that is ready for
spice-like characters. $60 Another strong class NSW Orange Shiraz drinking now! $110
2018 ★★★★
30 Mile South East of diverse styles with A pleasant easy to drink
Australia Shiraz the 2017 and 2019 wine with great length
2020 ★★★ vintages being the of black varietal fruits
A big rich tannic style
highlights. “Great
laced with licorice and STAR RATINGS ★★★★★
with sweet ripe inky black pepper. $40
varietal fruit. $9.99 to see winemakers Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of
working to create the RidgeView Wines excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.
Three Jailbirds Impressions Hunter All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry
harmonious balance
South East Australia Valley Shiraz professionals and are compared in peer
Shiraz 2020 ★★★ between oak and fruit, 2018 ★★★★ classes by three judges.
Soft oak dominated which is a credit to A well-integrated wine CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,
wine with hints of them,” said one judge. with simple sweet red a major mail-order business.
raspberry jam and berry fruits, some green CD Cellar door price.
plums. $9.99 “Very few faulty wines notes and a nice cedary CDO Cellar door only.
here.” aftertaste. $50
SO Sold out.
$N/A Price not available at time of printing.
☎ Contact information pg 88.
RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).
BEST VALUE for $20 & under.
For a complete list of what we tasted
please refer to www.winestate.com.au
www.caststone.com.au
950 Port Rd, Albert Park SA 5014 | Tel 08 8244 4888 FREE CALL 1800 626 816 | info@caststone.com.au
travelbriefs
WINSOR DOBBIN
“We all try to do our part to improve our MORE THAN WINE
impact on the landscape – being carbon
VISITORS to Vineyard Road cellar door in
neutral is a way for us to continuously
Langhorne Creek can enjoy more than just
improve our care for the environment and
wine. As well as wine tasting visitors can
give back to our local community.”
enjoy artisan chocolates and natural olive
Oliver’s Taranga Winemaker Corrina
oil skincare products with three offerings
Wright acknowledged the optimism
under the one roof.
surrounding the 2021 vintage.
Vineyard Road Wines, Fleurieu Chocolate
“It’s really great to be blunt; shiraz is
Company and Vasse Virgin Olive Oil share
spectacular with intense flavour and
the space, and wine and chocolate pairings
delicate tannins and we are seeing average
are available. Vineyard Road is at 697
yields, not the lows of the past two years,”
Langhorne Creek Road, Belvidere, and is
she said.
open six days a week, closed Tuesdays. ADULTS ONLY ESCAPE
“Fiano and whites are coming off with
balance and natural acidity. The long, MCLAREN Vale's newest luxury micro-hotel
slow ripening this season allowed flavours MORE THAN KANGAROOS ON KI
is “adults only”, Hotel California Road, part
to develop naturally and evenly in the FALL in love with Kangaroo Island’s of the Inkwell Wines property.
vineyard and helped reduce the added wildlife and landscapes on a new two-day Set in the vineyards on a private floor, each
pressure of disease.” ‘Highlights of Kangaroo Island’ tour from 50sqm king suite has a deck, soaking tub
SeaLink. with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking
COLLECTIVE SUCCESS The tour includes gourmet-style picnic the vines, floating king bed, dual vanities
lunches with South Australian wines, all and rain showers, mini bar stocked with
NEIGHBOURS Chalk Hill Wines and
coach and ferry transfers, a choice of Inkwell wine and snacks, leather couch,
Never Never Distilling Co. have offered
standard and superior accommodation with Dolce Gusto coffee, HDTV with Yamaha
a spectacular two-fold experience of
breakfast and accommodation included. wi-fi and Bluetooth-enabled sound bar.
wine and gin. Last year, the team behind
Small groups of up to eight people get One of the suites can be converted into
McLaren Vale destination Pizzateca arrived
a personalised 4WD tour with expert a “accessible” suite (wheelchair-friendly)
at the same venue with Cucina di Strada.
commentary from the driver/guide. with a fully equipped accessible bathroom.
The trio forms the Chalk Hill Collective.
Guests get up close and personal with Rooms also have ample USB charging/
Cucina di Strada specialises in pinsas, a
kangaroos, koalas and other nocturnal power points, a desk and small table with
pizza derivative with a thick, fluffy base.
wildlife at the Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park; chairs. There is also an outdoor common
Alongside pinsas their “street food”
see sealions in their natural environment courtyard and deck for hotel guests for
offering includes mozzarella sticks, arancini,
on a guided beach walk at Seal Bay watching vineyard sunsets. Australian
meatballs, panini, cakes, gelato, coffee,
Conservation Park; and enjoy guided continental breakfasts are provided.
and charcuterie. Chalk Hill Collective is at
bush walks and beach strolls all while Special rates are available for a two-
56 Field Street, McLaren Vale.
spotting the island's beautiful wildlife in its night minimum stay when booked directly
natural habitat and watch kangaroos and but there are no kitchen or cooking
other native animals graze at Kelly Hill facilities. No pets. No smoking. Email
Conservation Park. hotel@inkwellwines.com or phone 0468
No trip to Kangaroo Island is complete 883 776.
without visiting Flinders Chase National
Previous page top right: Outdoor area at Bremerton.
Park. Discover the picturesque Admirals
Top right: Vineyard Road cellar door.
Arch and its colony of long-nosed fur Middle: Seals at Seal Bay, Kangaroo Island.
Bottom left: Exterior of Chalk Hill.
M c L A R E N VA L E , L A N G H O R N E
C R E E K , F L E U R I E U & S U R RO U N D S
McLaren Vale is the yardstick for big flavoursome reds and this OTHER RED Shingleback El
Capitan McLaren
judging proved the point again. Lots of great shiraz wines across BLENDS & Vale Tempranillo
vintages and styles were here along with some consistently 2020 ★★★★
VARIETALS Bright fresh easy
good grenache wines which are also becoming the hallmark 15 TASTED drinking style that is
10 AWARDED a nice compote of
of the region. raspberries, cherries and
chocolate with a touch
A stronger flight than of mint. $25
the whites that the
judges thought showed
that reds might be
Richard Hamilton La better suited to these
OTHER WHITE Valle McLaren Vale
ROSÉ
regions.
7 TASTED
VARIETALS & Fiano 2020 ★★★1/2
Pear/citrus nose with 3 AWARDED Rusty Mutt Conejo
BLENDS a funky element. Joven McLaren Vale
9 TASTED Flavoursome fruit palate A mixed bag with Tempranillo
4 AWARDED and a firm phenolic 2019 ★★★★★
frame. $22 the better examples
Spicy blueberry
designated rosé fragrances with earthy/
Some good examples George's Folly So wines rather than herbal nuances and a fully
in this group but the Vain Jane Fleurieu textured palate with good
afterthoughts.
judges agreed there Sauvignon Gris length and depth of blue
2019 ★★★ fruit flavours laced with
were some wines that Angas & Bremer
Subtle tropical chewy tannins. $35
were more unctuous Langhorne Creek
fragrances with an
Rosé 2020 ★★★★1/2
than varietal with early interesting soft and
Pale pink wine with
layered palate. $27
picking an issue. aromas of plums and
cherries and a nicely
Rusty Mutt Catnip CHARDONNAY textured lightweight
McLaren Vale 6 TASTED palate with some berry
The Bio Project
Viognier flavours and a good juicy
1 AWARDED Tempranillo Blend
2020 ★★★★1/2 acid backbone. $20
By Shingleback
Fresh lifted and not
McLaren Vale
too oily with restrained The judges were Riot Wine Co Riot
Tempranillo Blend
floral/stonefruit nose South Australia
disappointed with this 2019 ★★★★
and a nicely textured Rosé 2019 ★★★★
group that generally Inviting minty briary/
full-bodied palate with Salmon pink hues and a
lacked varietal definition, chocolate bouquet.
flavours of peaches. pretty fruit nose with a
Good weight of fruit
Needs time. $30 however there was one creamy palate showing a
on the soft palate with
peach and citrus flavour
highlight. some grainy tannins.
Hastwell & Lightfoot profile. $8 (per can)
$25 (available at
V McLaren Vale
Beresford Classic Liquorland)
Vermentino The Bio Project Rosé
McLaren Vale
2020 ★★★★ by Shingleback
Chardonnay
Clean bright citrus McLaren Vale
2020 ★★★★
bouquet with a tropical Monastrell Rosé
Fresh and vital
tang and good line of 2020 ★★★
chardonnay with nice
tight citrus flavours on a Flinty fruit fragrances
intensity of peach and George's Folly Pigs
lightweight palate. $25 with a crisp clean
nectarine fruit with fig- Might Fly Fleurieu
palate and subtle melon
like elements and firm Montepulciano
flavours. $25 (available
acidity. $30 Nero d'Avola
at Liquorland)
2018 ★★★★1/2
Complex blue fruit
aromas on the nose with
a funky edge. Lightweight
palate with flavours of
cherries and stonefruits
and powdery tannins. $28
Ekhidna Wines She Richard Hamilton Shingleback D Block Organic Hill Vine
Viper McLaren Vale Hut Block McLaren Reserve McLaren Hill McLaren Vale
Grenache Shiraz Vale Cabernet Vale Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon
2017 ★★★1/2 Sauvignon Sauvignon 2018 ★★★★
An interesting savoury/ 2018 ★★★★★ 2018 ★★★★★ Dense cassis nose but
meaty style layered with “Firm and assertive Nose is a brooding opens up nicely with
red fruits and herbs with without being complexity of briary fruit some air. Lovely fruit
developing complexity. aggressive,” said one with forest floor notes. weight and structure to
$29.50 judge. Smells of the Rich, full-bodied palate the leaner style palate.
forest floor and black with lovely persistence $35
Watkins Family fruits with a plush of minty black fruit
T
Wine Directed VBAESLUSE mixed berry fruit flavours and great
BUY
Intensity flavour profile. $24 acidity. $55
Langhorne Creek
G.S.M. 2019 ★★★ Grounded Cru
Red fruit fragrances with Cru McLaren Vale
a lavender lift. Lively Langhorne Creek
palate; balanced and Cabernet Sauvignon
rich. $19.99 Shiraz Malbec
2018 ★★★★1/2
Grounded Cru Cru Dark brooding blue
McLaren Vale G.S.M. and black fruit nose
2018 ★★★ with aged red fruits
Subtle dark fruit bouquet adding complexity. Soft Watkins Family VBAESLUTE
with a light violet note and generous in the Wine Langhorne BUYS
and developing fruit mouth with a complex Creek Cabernet
flavours. $28 spectrum of fruit Sauvignon
flavours. $28 2019 ★★★★
CABERNET & Light leafiness to the
Pertaringa Rifle & nose with minty herbal
BLENDS Hunt McLaren Vale elements and a crisp
Cabernet Sauvignon fruit palate with smooth
29 TASTED 2018 ★★★★1/2 tannins. $19.99
24 AWARDED Great varietal definition
to the nose of Pertaringa Grandeur Wellington
A very solid class blueberries, plums and Understudy McLaren Cellar Reserve
chocolate. Firm well Vale Cabernet McLaren Vale
of wines showing Shingleback Davey structured, super ripe, Cabernet Sauvignon
Sauvignon
the typical regional Estate McLaren Vale palate with dark fruit 2019 ★★★★ 2018 ★★★★
characteristics of flavour Cabernet Sauvignon flavours. $40 Earthy spicy aromas A big bold oak driven
2018 ★★★★★ laced with briary fruit cabernet with sweet
depth and strong mid-
A bold and assertive and a big tannic palate toasty characters on top
palate. “A lot less oak wine with a nose bright of the briary fruit. Will
layered with good fruit
contact now than seen with cassis fruit lifted and oak. $25 improve further. $120
in the past,” noted with violet nuances.
Silky smooth palate of Grounded Cru Tail Spin Langhorne
one judge. Excellent red fruits, malty oak and Creek Cabernet
Inc McLaren Vale
consistency with the grainy tannins. $25 Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon
top wines showing both 2019 ★★★★ 2019 ★★★1/2
A racy linear wine that More of a generic dry
varietal and regional red. Some nice red
is tight, bright and fresh
flavours. with savoury mulberry fruit characters and
characters and green good length of talc-like
herbal overtones. $45 tannins. $15
JUDGES
Shane Harris Nick Haselgrove Matt O’Leary
Winemaker for Wines by Winestate’s 2010 Australian Chief winemaker
Geoff Hardy including, K1 Winemaker of the Year. for Savitas Wines
and Handcrafted by Geoff Owner/Winemaker of in the Barossa
Hardy Wines. Has also Nick Haselgrove Wines. Valley. Formerly
completed vintages in Former chief winemaker Senior Winemaker
Queensland and Victoria. at Haselgrove Wines. A for Wolf Blass
Completed the AWRI ‘flying winemaker’ from Wines. Judge at
advanced sensory course 1993-95. Judge at Hobart the Barossa wine
and has associate judged at for 3 years and associate show. Panelist
McLaren Vale Wine Show. judge at Adelaide in 1996- at the Advanced
Winestate Winemaker of the 97. Extensive International Wine Assessment
Year in 2009, 2019 & 2020. export activities. Course.
Coriole Estate John Hill Organic Grounded Cru Cru Shingleback Coriole ‘Riesling
McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Unedited McLaren Block’ McLaren Vale
2019 ★★★★ 2020 ★★★ 2018 ★★★★1/2 Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2
Bright blue fruited “Still a callow youth.” A soft generous style 2018 ★★★★ Nose of blueberries
aromas with lolly notes. Lots of toasty oak with of shiraz with black A full-bodied, rounded and prunes with subtle
Generous palate with lovely shiraz fruit. Needs cherries, violets and and rich wine with blue chocolate notes. Palate
good use of oak and time! $185 rose petals lifting off fruit varietal characters is rich, fleshy and
strong tannins. $32 the nose and lots of ripe edged with herbal notes finishes sweet. $64
Haselgrove Wines fleshy fruit filling the and spicy oak. $69.95
Grounded Cru Inc First Cut McLaren mouth with flavour. $28 Paxton Vale
McLaren Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz Pertaringa Yeoman Organics McLaren
2019 ★★★★ 2019 ★★★ Sew & Sew Sashiko McLaren Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz
A bright, nicely focused Malty spicy bouquet McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 ★★★★ 2018 ★★★
and “Well thought- with a rich, generous 2018 ★★★★ Lovely, sweet dark Earthy savoury shiraz
out wine”. Generous and uncomplicated fruit Mulberry and plum- fruit richness with nice with generous dark
amount of ripe fruit driven palate. $23 like fruit here; nice weight of chocolaty oak, fruits, chewy tannins
layered with plenty of spiciness. Lovely, classy some dense tannins and and piquant acidity. $25
oak. $50 Bec Hardy McLaren oak evident on the nice line of acid. $250
Vale Shiraz palate with long chewy Scarpantoni Block 3
Red Knot By 2019 ★★★ tannins. $25 Clarence Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz
Shingleback Minty red fruit aromas Adelaide Shiraz 2018 ★★★
McLaren Vale Shiraz and rich, chewy and Shingleback Davey 2018 ★★★1/2 A lighter spicy and
2019 ★★★1/2 persistent sweet fruit Estate McLaren Vale A nicely poised and leafy style with subtle
A rich and full-bodied flavours. $40 Shiraz 2018 ★★★★ fleshy wine with good use of oak and grainy
wine with spicy briary A lovely concentration of persistence of varietal tannins. $35
and red fruit characters Haselgrove Wines blue fruits, licorice and fruit with some grainy
and big grippy tannins. The Ambassador spices on both the nose tannins. $18 Beresford Classic
$15 McLaren Vale Shiraz and palate with some McLaren Vale Shiraz
2019 ★★★ tannin length. $25 Angas & Bremer 2018 ★★★1/2
Tail Spin Langhorne A straightforward style Langhorne Creek A vibrant and austere
Creek Shiraz with “nice bones!” Has Grandeur Wellington Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2 sweet-fruited style of
2019 ★★★1/2 estery sweet fruit and Gen 69 McLaren A straightforward, shiraz with high level of
Smells of rhubarb and an oaky finish. $90 Vale Shiraz well-made wine with a acid and overt oak. $30
sour cherries with a 2018 ★★★★ generosity of black fruits
bright, spicy and touch Haselgrove Wines A nutty nose with spicy and licorice and drying
herbal, lightweight The Cruth McLaren rhubarb-like lift. Dark tannins. $25 SHIRAZ
palate. $15 Vale Shiraz brooding fruit palate, 2017 & OLDER
2019 ★★★ well-judged acidity and Haselgrove Wines
Bird's Eye View Dark brooding black good use of oak. $35 Catkin McLaren Vale
21 TASTED
McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit/licorice characters, Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2 16 AWARDED
2019 ★★★1/2 lots of oak and grainy The Gate By A dark blueberry/licorice
Dark, brooding and tannins. $150 Shingleback bouquet and soft and The judges noted that
chocolaty style with McLaren Vale Shiraz juicy in the mouth with a
2018 ★★★★ some of these wines
hints of forest floor good depth of fruit. $40
characters and long SHIRAZ 2018 Brooding briary bouquet were starting to show
lingering tannins. $16 23 TASTED layered with oak and Pertaringa Over The savoury characters.
20 AWARDED a nicely weighted, Top McLaren Vale
“The good news is that
Richard Hamilton flavoursome and fleshy Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2
Little Road McLaren varietal fruit palate. Spicy black fruit nose generally these wines
Vale Shiraz A very solid vintage with $39.95 with chocolaty nuances. have good backbones
2019 ★★★1/2 a mix of modern and Generous palate; warm, which serves them
Savoury style with, old-fashioned styles. The Grounded Cru Inc balanced and good
according to one judge, McLaren Vale Shiraz acidity. $40 well,” said one judge.
better wines showed
“All the bells and 2018 ★★★★ “These are enjoyable
whistles”. Rich red fruit both generosity and Nose is a rhubarb, black Jericho Wines drinks to have with
and classy oak. $24 balance. fruit and chocolate McLaren Vale Shiraz
food or for those who
compote of aromas with 2018 ★★★1/2
Mr Riggs Mr Ekhidna Wines 2 a plum jam palate and Subtle brooding aromas like some complex
Brightside Mates McLaren Vale crisp acid spine. $50 with beautiful layering secondary development
Preservative Free Shiraz 2018 ★★★★★ and complexity of
in their wines.”
McLaren Vale Shiraz A big, bold, meaty Clarence Hill flavours and retained
2020 ★★★ monster of a wine with Reserve McLaren freshness. $42
Light bodied with bright oaky aromas lifted by Vale Shiraz
and youthful red fruit some lovely blue fruits. 2018 ★★★★ Mr Riggs Burnt
characters layered with Firm and full in the A good varietal showing Block McLaren Vale
toasty oak. $22 mouth with briary-like structure and direction. Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2
fruit flavours. Needs Raspberries shine out Super concentration of
more time. $29.50 from the darker fruit and spicy blueberry aromas
spicy oak. $65 and a tannic palate with
crisp acidity. Time! $50
Ekhidna Wines 35
Degrees McLaren
Vale Shiraz
2014 ★★★★
A beautifully aged
Christmas cake of a
wine with loads of Grandeur Wellington
spices, chocolate Gen 69 McLaren
and rhubarb-like fruit Vale Shiraz
characters. $110 2017 ★★★
Nose has a chocolaty/
cola complexity with
sweetness running
through the fruit
palate. $45
www.winestate.com.au
In this issue...
New Releases &
Best Value Buys Under $20
193 TASTED
115 AWARDED
NEW RELEASES
As always New Release judgings throw out the great buys, the Wandering Lane PINOT GRIS/
Great Southern
good buys and the goodbyes! Luckily we don’t put in the latter Riesling 2020 ★★★★ GRIGIO
wines so you can safely buy any of these recommended wines An off-dry style with 9 TASTED
complex tropical/citrus
7 AWARDED
and enjoy. Just look at our judges comments and choose the nose and a candied lime
palate with plenty of
ones that match your palate. If you don’t know your palate yet crisp acidity. $32 Good result for
try some of these and start to build your pallet profile. Lots of this variety with
Yealands
fun on the way! Marlborough better definition and
Riesling winemaking skills on
2020 ★★★1/2 show.
A fine lemon scented
nose with a nicely Trentham
Whistling Kite weighted lime fruit
SPARKLING Riverland Sparkling
RIESLING palate with a drying
Estate The
Family Murray
6 TASTED Petit Verdot
10 TASTED finish. $16.95 NZ Darling Pinot Grigio
5 AWARDED 2017 ★★★ 8 AWARDED 2020 ★★★★1/2
Full bodied complex Taylors Estate Clare Great nose; lifted,
wine with generous Valley Riesling complex and leafy with
A solid group of clean, A strong class of
weight of spicy plum 2020 ★★★1/2 slight tropical note.
well-made and drinkable varietal characters. $45 eclectic styles ranging Reserved citrus blossom Generous weight of
sparkling wines. from the austere lime/ bouquet and luscious lemon and apple-like
mouth coating layers of varietal flavours with
FIANO citrus to the bigger
Cave De Lugny lime and lemon flavours. nicely balancing acidity.
Burgundy Cremant 5 TASTED full flavoured textured $20 $18
Rosé NV ★★★1/2 2 AWARDED wines. “There was great
Fresh raspberry depth of fruit overall,” Patrick of Taylors Estate Clare
bouquet, mouth filling Coonawarra Two Valley Pinot Gris
A couple of good noted one judge. Blocks Coonawarra
mousse and layers of 2020 ★★★★
raspberry, apple and examples with the Wrattonbully Nose smells of lemons
Knappstein Insider Riesling
floral flavours. $25 others just borderline and is zesty fresh and
Clare Valley Riesling 2020 ★★★1/2
2020 ★★★★★ juicy in the mouth
Bella Luna Victoria because of unbalanced The nose is spicy and
Great complexity here with palate showing
Prosecco 2020 ★★★ flavours due to the perfumed with aromatic an edge of fruit
for a young wine with varietal fruit flavours on
Delicate fresh citrus youthfulness of the sweetness. $20
a heady spicy lime and a viscous palate. $25
fragrances, creamy
wines but they could apple bouquet and
mousse and simple Famille Hugel
improve with some age. lovely intensity of lip- Famille Hugel
sweet flavours. Classic Alsace
smacking flavours with Classic Alsace
$18.99 France Pinot Gris
Zilzie Wines nicely balanced residual France Riesling
sweetness. $30 2017 ★★★★
Cobb’s Hill Estate Platinum Edition 2018 ★★★1/2 A powerful full-bodied
Shooting Star Adelaide Hills Fiano Toasty candied lime style with a stylish
2019 ★★★1/2 Famille Hugel Grossi bouquet and loads of
Adelaide Hills complexity of pears and
Zesty fresh citrus nose Laue Limited Alsace fresh and complex
Sparkling Rosé honeysuckle. $44
with loads of apricot and France Riesling
2020 ★★★ mouth filling fruit
2011 ★★★★★
Dainty red berry bouquet citrus flavours and a nice flavours. $42 Famille Hugel Grossi
phenolic touch. $35 A rich generous
with a floral lift and a Laue Limited Alsace
wine with controlled Singlefile Great
sweet raspberry palate. France Pinot Gris
Bella Luna Victoria development showing Southern WA
Good acid. $30
aromas of toast and 2010 ★★★★
Fiano 2020 ★★★ Riesling 2020 ★★★ Wonderful bright gold
Subtle honeyed peach honey with good toasty Perfumed nose with a
Postcards From colour, vital complexity
aromas and textured length to the palate and whiff of wisteria and a
Italy DOC Veneto to the nose and creamy
palate layered with tight mouth puckering
Prosecco 2019 ★★★ lovely delicate lemony nutty palate with some
interesting flavours. acidity. $134 palate. $25
Refreshing medium dry sweetness. $134
style with sweet apricot $18.99
and lemon fruit balanced Herbert Vineyard
by the acid. $20 Mt Gambier Pinot
Gris 2020 ★★★
Lots of interest here
with lovely layers of fruit,
toast and honey. $22
SAUVIGNON
BLANC &
BLENDS
10 TASTED Hollydene Show Neil McGuigan
6 AWARDED Reserve Upper Signature Mature
Hunter Valley Release Hunter
Semillon Valley Semillon
The better wines 2019 ★★★★★ 2018 ★★★★1/2
showed strong Kiwi-like A classic Hunter Another great young
herbaceous characters semillon with candied wine with enormous
fruit and toasty potential and exhibiting
or grassy WA styles with honeyed aromas. lovely intense
a few other variations Peter Teakle Beautiful textured concentration of lemon/
Wines Estate palate and long intense citrus aromas and
thrown in. There were The Peninsulas lemon fruit flavours. flavours. $22
a couple of low alcohol, Sauvignon Blanc Great potential! $36
low flavoured wines that Peter Teakle Wines Semillon 2018 ★★★ Glamper South
White Pointer Subdued aromas with Australia Semillon
didn’t make the cut.
The Peninsulas fresh lemon curd-like Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc flavours and well- 2020 ★★★1/2
Singlefile
2020 ★★★★ integrated acid. $19 Reserved lemony
Run Free Pemberton
Zesty fresh tropical style nose with hints of
Western Australia
of sauvignon blanc that honeysuckle. Good
Sauvignon Blanc
has loads of juicy varietal SEMILLON &
2020 ★★★★1/2 palate weight and
fruit edged with herbal BLENDS flavour intensity. $18
Intense pungent
notes. $20
herbaceous/grassy 5 TASTED
varietal aromas with a Singlefile Great
Moss Brothers 4 AWARDED
fresh and punchy palate Southern WA
Moses Rock Semillon Sauvignon
that has great texture
Margaret River A couple of nice easy Blanc 2020 ★★★
and exhibits layers of
Sauvignon Blanc Punchy green pea
lovely flavours. $25 drinking blends here
2020 ★★★★ fragrances with an
A pronounced grassy with one excellent herbaceous edged
style with a big hit of straight semillon varietal grassy style palate. $25
herbaceous/capsicum
offering pleasurable
aromas and a long
refreshing palate with drinking.
tight acidity. $32
JU DG E S - DAY 1
Dave Matthews Mark Solomon Peter Lloyd
Formerly Winemaker Scientist with AWRI. General manager, Coriole
at Rosemount and Member of Technical vineyards. Has worked for wine
Group Winemaker for & Quality panel wholesalers Fine Wine Partners
Treasury Wine estates. of the Institute. as on premise manager for
Vintages in Tuscany and Completed the Melbourne CBD, followed by
California. Judged in Advanced Wine a specialist role managing the
Australia and overseas. Assessment Course museum and rare portfolio. He
Currently with Francois and Wine Show joined Coriole in 2014 as sales
Freres cooperages and Judging Course. and marketing manager and
owner winemaker of took over the GM role from his
Gargoyle Wines. father Mark in 2020.
OTHER WHITE Postcards From Italy Taylors Estate Knappstein Clare OTHER RED
Organic Soave Padthaway Clare Valley Chardonnay
BLENDS & 2019 ★★★ Valley Chardonnay 2020 ★★★ VARIETALS &
Nicely textured wine full 2020 ★★★★ A full bodied and very
VARIETALS of orchard fruits with a A crisp medium bodied flavoursome wine with BLENDS
8 TASTED hint of lemon. Needs wine with layers of ripe fruit and upfront 14 TASTED
7 AWARDED seafood! $20 citrus, stonefruits and oak. $22 10 AWARDED
spices and some nice
Famille Hugel Gentil balanced phenolics. Singlefile Great
A very strong class of Alsace France White $20 Southern WA Lots of drinkable
varietals and blends. Blend 2018 ★★★ Chardonnay wines here across
“Everything you An aromatic, savoury Singlefile Run Free 2020 ★★★ many varieties with
and nicely textured acid Western Australia A fresh straightforward
would expect from driven white blend. $30 Chardonnay style with good creamy general consistency.
these wines,” said one 2020 ★★★★ length of gently sweet There seems to be a
judge. “There was Fine, fresh and subtle fruit. $30 new trend in drinking
CHARDONNAY style with well-rounded
great diversity of both 15 TASTED with mid-weight wines
peach and melon fruit
varieties and regions.” 8 AWARDED showing sherbet-like ROSÉ offering an alternative
characters. $25 11 TASTED to the big blockbusters.
Briar Ridge Limited 3 AWARDED
Release Wrattonbully The judges found Worth exploring!
Viognier there were the good,
2020 ★★★★1/2 The judges were Whistling Kite
the bad and the ugly Biodynamic
A classic! Delightful lifted disappointed with this
sweet apricot aromas all represented here. Vineyard The Regent
flight. “Overall, the acid Collection Riverland
with a dash of spice. Full “Too many simple
bodied, textured palate and sugar balance was Montepulciano
wines,” said one 2020 ★★★★1/2
with intense apricot and out of whack along with
judge. “However, the A big dense wine
honeysuckle flavours. $28 general lack of flavour,”
better wines are worth with heady dark fruit
Famille said one judge. The few fragrances and a
exploring with more
Hugel Classic that did well showed menthol lift. Quite a
layered complexity and tannic palate with good
Alsace France fruit depth and good
Gewurztraminer lovely acid balance.” length of cherry fruit and
acid/sugar balance. a licorice character. $30
2016 ★★★★1/2
Still a very youthful,
Patrick of Aquarius Central
super fragrant, wine.
Coonawarra P Victoria Sangiovese
Lychees and citrus
blossom aromas and an
Series By Patrick 2020 ★★★★
Limestone Coast Small berry fruit bouquet
attractive sweet spicy
Rosé 2020 ★★★★ and a fleshy palate with
tropical fruit palate with
Fragrant raspberry and good creamy raspberry
good acid line. $42
cherry fruit aromas flavours and firm
with sweetness and tannins. $18.99
Aquarius Central Neil McGuigan acid nicely balanced on
Victoria Marsanne Signature Hunter the strawberry palate. Singlefile Great
Viognier 2019 ★★★★ Valley Chardonnay $20 Southern WA
A luscious wine that is a 2020 ★★★1/2
clever blend of varieties Tempranillo
Oak driven chardonnay
with the wine benefitting
Atkins Farm 2020 ★★★★
with ripe buttery nose Langhorne Creek
from highlights from A straightforward
and a well-rounded, Rosé 2020 ★★★
both. $18.99 medium bodied wine
fleshy and complex Pretty pale pink with spicy fruit, a
palate. $22 wine with refreshing
Famille Hugel background of oak and
strawberry fruit and racy grippy tannins. $25
Classic Alsace Yealands Reserve acidity. $16.95
France Pinot Blanc Awatere Valley
2018 ★★★1/2 22 Degree Halo
Marlborough Patrick of
Delicate honey/pear Kaleidoscope Of
Chardonnay Coonawarra Mayhem Riverland
bouquet and a light, 2020 ★★★ Mother Of Pearl
drying palate with Altus Rise Ascension Red Blend
An apricot-like bouquet
flavours in the savoury Margaret River Wrattonbully Rosé 2020 ★★★
and slightly oily palate 2020 ★★★
spectrum. $31.50 Chardonnay A soft simple dry red
with honeysuckle
2020 ★★★★★ A light strawberry and with minty black fruit
flavours. $19.95 NZ cream style with some
Zilzie Wines A beautifully complex and a savoury element.
wine that is crisp phenolics balanced by $18
Platinum Edition Zilzie Wines
and balanced with the sweetness. $20
Australia Arinto Butterfly Kiss
2020 ★★★ lovely sweetness of Bella Luna Victoria
Victoria Chardonnay
spicy peach and citrus Nero D’Avola
Full bodied wine with 2020 ★★★
a savoury nose and varietal fruit. Plenty of 2020 ★★★
Reserved peach
palate and some grippy long lingering flavours Perfumed cherry aromas
aromas and a warming
interest. $35 here. $35 and a creamy cherry fruit
palate with fresh citrus
palate with “chunky”
flavours. $20
oak. $18.99
JU DG E S - DAY 2
Steve Warrick Bill Hardy Geoff Cowey
Wine marketer with Corporate oenologist for Senior oenologist with
20 years experience Accolade Wines (formerly AWRI. He has wide
in McLaren Vale, Constellation). 28 years’ vintage experience
Coonawarra, Adelaide winemaking experience in including Barossa,
Hills and Margaret places such as McLaren Sunraysia, Great
River. Extensive wine Vale, WA and France. Has Western, Coonawarra,
judging experience at judged internationally Tasmania, including
the Adelaide, Hobart (France & Japan), and been Burgundy, Priorat,
and McLaren Vale wine an associate senior judge Penedes, Martinborough.
shows. at 20+ state & regional Judge at New England
wine shows in Australia. Wine Show.
CABERNET & Taylors Jaraman XV Pure SEA Patrick of The Wine Sellar
Clare Valley Cabernets Coonawarra Two Chocolate Box
BLENDS Coonawarra 2020 ★★★1/2 Blocks Coonawarra Barossa Valley
30 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignon Fragrant jubey fruit Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2019 ★★★★
2018 ★★★★1/2 nose and a youthful and 2018 ★★★ Deep purple wine with
16 AWARDED
Minty chocolate aromas vibrant palate with soft Slight medicinal note creamy raspberry-like
with underlying berry tannins and balancing to the nose and sweet/ aromas and fruit cake-
A very solid class with fruit characters and a acid. $25 savoury flavours with like flavours with licorice
distinctive varietal bright, fresh, blue fruit gentle tannins. $32 notes. $18
palate with obvious Zilzie Wines
character across some mintiness and plenty of Platinum Edition Allegiance Wines Taylors Estate
different styles. “The oak. $32 McLaren Vale The Artisan Aged Limestone Coast
best here had a degree Cabernet Sauvignon Release Coonawarra Clare Valley Shiraz
Majella Coonawarra 2019 ★★★1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ★★★★
of freshness and texture Lifted sweet berry 2013 ★★★
Cabernet Sauvignon Lifted rose-like floral
with the 2018s showing 2018 ★★★★ aromas and a full bodied A lovely graceful and fragrances and an
up best across the board Subtle dark currant nose flavoursome palate; nice elegant cabernet with attractive juicy entry to
with a minty lift and a drive of sweet floral an array of red and dark the soft and very pretty
and offering great ageing
bright youthful palate fruit. $35 fruits. $40 palate. $20
potential,” noted one with lots of acid and oak
judge. “Wines ranged in the background. $35 Richard Hamilton Pertaringa
from textbook choc- Hut Block McLaren SHIRAZ & Undercover McLaren
Haan Estate Vale Cabernet BLENDS Vale Shiraz
mint/herbaceous styles Wilhelmus Barossa Sauvignon 2019 ★★★★
to the big, rich and Valley Cabernet 2018 ★★★ 2020/2019 Attractive red and dark
flavoursome with less Sauvignon Merlot Minty berry bouquet and 27 TASTED plum fruit, supporting
Cabernet Franc a palate plump with juicy oak, some exotic
varietal characters.” 18 AWARDED
Malbec Petit Verdot ripe fruit. $24 spiciness and soft
2018 ★★★★ approachable tannins.
Attractive aromas of Allegiance Wines A solid line up of wines $25
cedar, cigar box and The Foreman with well managed oak
leather with a fine, well Coonawarra Erin Eyes Stone Of
poised and elegant dark Cabernet Sauvignon across the board. “The Destiny Clare Shiraz
spicy fruit palate. $50 2020 ★★★ best showcased the Malbec 2019 ★★★★
A big wine with intense vineyard rather than the An oak driven style
Knappstein dark cherry and plum with fruit characters at
fruit, olive notes and a winemakers’ artifact,”
Enterprise Vineyard the darker end of the
Clare Valley thread of oak. $25 said one judge. spectrum and savoury
Cabernet Sauvignon tannins. $30
2018 ★★★★ Allegiance Wines The Krondorf Old Salem
A nose of blackcurrants Artisan Coonawarra Barossa Shiraz ETON LN McLaren
and cedar with a Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ★★★★★ Vale Shiraz
juicy entry to the 2020 ★★★ Bright attractive tart 2019 ★★★★
long, textured and Fragrant berry aromas and dark berry bouquet and Youthful fragrant
flavoursome palate. $53 a firm entry to the plush powerful flavours of intensity of cranberry-
dark fruit palate. $40 blackberries and plums like fruit, chewy tannic
Pertaringa Tipsy on a tightly coiled palate palate with plenty of
Hill McLaren Vale Singlefile Great with nice use of oak and fruit to support. $40
Cabernet Sauvignon Southern WA dense tannins. $34.99
2018 ★★★★ Cabernet Sauvignon Cobb’s Hill Estate
Quite a tannic and Merlot 2019 ★★★ Avon Brae Eden Shotgun Adelaide
savoury style with spicy An elegant balanced Valley Shiraz Hills Shiraz Pinot
Richard Hamilton 2019 ★★★★1/2
perfumed lift to the nose wine with dark currant- Noir 2020 ★★★1/2
Single Vineyard Hut An approachable wine
and a long lively dark like fruit, savoury oak A cherry nose with
Eleven McLaren Vale with a savoury oak nose
fruit palate. $295 and firm tannins. $25 bright spicy peppery
Cabernet Sauvignon laced with allspice notes nuances and very pretty
2019 ★★★★1/2 and rich full flavoured
Allegiance Wines Allegiance Wines delicate floral fruit
A complex nose that palate with chocolaty
The Artisan Reserve Unity Barossa Valley palate. $34
is an amalgam of blue flavours and lovely long
Aged Release Cabernet Sauvignon
berry fruit and savoury
Coonawarra 2019 ★★★ tannins. $36.50 Bec Hardy McLaren
oak with a light youthful
Cabernet Sauvignon Big, bold and ripe with a Vale Shiraz
varietal palate that has
2014 ★★★★ lift of plums and licorice The Wine Sellar Old 2019 ★★★1/2
all the ingredients! $38 Mundulla Vineyard
Fragrances reminiscent and a big impact of fruit Subtle fragrant floral
of panforte and dried flavours. $100 Limestone Coast bouquet and lovely
figs with a plush tannic Shiraz 2019 ★★★★ persistence of sweet
palate, cassis fruit and Dark briary fruit nose spicy flavours. Drinking
high acid. $60 with earthy oaky notes well now. $40
and a balanced and
flavoursome plum
palate. $8
Trentham Estate The Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine
Family Murray Darling Directed Intensity Langhorne Creek Langhorne Creek
Pinot Grigio 2020 Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Shiraz 2019
G.S.M. 2019
Great nose; lifted, complex and Light leafiness to the nose Great varietal definition here;
leafy with slight tropical note. Red fruit fragrances with a with minty herbal elements all cherries, raspberries, cola
Generous weight of lemon and lavender lift. Lively palate; and a crisp fruit palate with and vanilla with big tannin
apple-like varietal flavours with balanced and rich. $19.99 smooth tannins. $19.99 profile and good acidity. $19.99
nicely balancing acidity. $18
Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine
Trentham Estate Pty Ltd Phone: 0415 571 574 Phone: 0415 571 574 Phone: 0415 571 574
Phone: 03 5024 8888 Email: ben@watkins.wine Email: ben@watkins.wine Email: ben@watkins.wine
Email: info@trenthamestate.com.au
Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au
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BEST VALUE BUYS Thompson Estate Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard
Phone: 08 9755 6406 Hamilton
Email: office@thompsonestate.com Phone: 08 8323 8830
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Phone: 03 5024 8888 Web: www.leconfieldwines.com *AMENDMENT*
Email: info@trenthamestate.com.au Whicher Ridge Wines/Odyssey
Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Creek Estate Periscope Management In our March April 2021
Phone: 08 9753 1394 Phone: +61 08 9757 3604 edition the Sew & Sew
Watkins Family Wine Email: wine@whicherridge.com.au Email: jacki@periscopemanagement. Sashiko McLaren Vale
Phone: 0415 571 574 Web: www.whicherridge.com.au com.au GSM 2019 was incorrectly
Email: ben@watkins.wine
referenced as a 2020
Peter Teakle Wines
MCLAREN VALE, Phone: 0412 213 136 vintage. See the correct
BEST OF THE WEST LANGHORNE CREEK, Email: wines@teakcorp.com.au review below.
FLEURIEU & SURROUNDS Web: www.peterteaklewines.com
Sew & Sew Sashiko
Below & Above Woodnibs Pty Ltd (Neil McGuigan) McLaren Vale G.S.M.
Phone: 0414 325 195 George’s Folly Phone: 0458 005 573 2019 ★★★
Email: sales@belowandabove.com.au Phone: 0423 026 972 Email: nmcguigan@avlwines.com. Aromas of sweet cherries,
Web: www.belowandabove.com.au Email: jodie@georgesfolly.com.au au flavours of boiled fruit cake
Web: www.georgesfolly.com.au
and soft tannins. $25
Brash Vineyard
Phone: 0427 042 767 Grandeur Wellington WINES OF NSW
Email: anne_chris@brashvineyard. Phone: 08 8383 0866
com.au Email: peter@gwellington.com.au
Web: www.brashvineyard.com.au Web: www.grandeurwellington. Boydell’s Wines
com.au Phone: 0417 747 454
Cape Mentelle Vineyards Email: daniel@boydells.com.au
Phone: 08 9757 0817 Shingleback Wine Web: www.boydells.com.au
Email: marketing@capementelle. Phone: 08 8323 9919
com.au Email: tastingroom@shingleback. Colmar Estate
Web: www.capementelle.com.au com.au Phone: 0419 977 270
www.capementelle.com.au/ Web: www.shingleback.com.au Email: contact@colmarestate.com.au
product/Two-Vineyards-Shiraz-2016 Web: www.colmarestate.com.au
Watkins Family Wine
Plantagenet Wines Phone: 0415 571 574 Highland Heritage (Penmara Wines)
Phone: 08 9851 3131 Email: ben@watkins.wine Phone: 0409 867 698
Email: sales@plantagenetwines.com Email: payments@daqg.com.au
Web: www.plantagenetwines.com Web: www.highlandheritageestate.
NEW RELEASES com.au
RiverBank Estate
Phone: 08 9377 1805 Robert Stein Wines
Email: wines@riverbankestate.com.au Hollydene Estate Wines Phone: 02 6373 3991
Web: www.riverbankestate.com.au Phone: 02 6576 4110 Email: info@robertstein.com.au
Email: admin@hollydeneestate.com Web: www.robertstein.com.au
Singlefile Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.hollydeneestate.com
Phone: 0409 108 166 Trentham Estate Pty Ltd
Email: jodie@singlefilewines.com Phone: 03 5024 8888
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ANYTHING good always comes back into The spicy wine flourished and became the top five brands have a vice-like grip on the
fashion. Ginger has been used as a medicine popular throughout the British Empire as well market, accounting for 90 per cent of sector
and flavouring for food and drinks in China from Australia to Canada, South Africa, Ireland value reports IRI. Drumroll please for Brookvale
and India since 500 BC. Recommended for and the newly independent USA. Probably Union, Fat Pixie, Rusty Yak and Stone’s.
soothing digestive problems, its benefits are because of the widely held belief that ginger Licensing works both ways. Another
real not hypothetical. A few years ago, I was was a panacea against disease. In the 19th Antipodean success is Ranga Alcoholic
laid low by Bali Belly and was worried the century, ginger wine was recommended as a Ginger Beer from New Zealand. Launched
airline wouldn’t allow me to board the plane. cholera preventative, medicinal tonic and also eight years ago with a cider base, it is the
Fortunately, the hotel housekeeper where I as an aphrodisiac. A marketing “message” that best-selling ginger beer across the Ditch.
was staying brewed some fresh ginger tea modern companies can only dream about. UK-based Westons Cider signed a deal
and the simple remedy stopped the nausea By the late 20th century, Stone’s Ginger late last year to brew Ranga at its facility in
and calmed my stomach in a couple of hours. Wine was a staple around the world and Herefordshire because of its synergy with its
Such historic health benefits are also behind had to re-pitch itself to a younger generation. core business. According to Darryl Hinksman,
the upsurge in the popularity of ginger beer Angove Family Winemakers in the Riverland head of business development at Westons:
and other trending beverages like kombucha has been making Stone’s Ginger Wine “We see Ranga resonating particularly strongly
and low alcohol drinks. The ginger beer market in Australia for decades. Last year, the with younger drinkers and we expect the
is divided into alcoholic and non-alcoholic company launched Ginger Joe in cans, broadest appeal to be amongst experimental
offerings and in spite of increased demand in following the successful launch of the wine- 25- to 38-year-olds”.
key markets, including Australia, over the past based drink in bottles in 2013. Angove’s was Nothing says ginger louder than Buderim,
two years still has plenty of steam. also one of the first-to-market in Australia with the Sunshine Coast company that ranks as
According to ResearchandMarkets, the Stone’s Premium Alcoholic Ginger Beer and Australia’s largest producer of ginger. Angove’s
world’s largest market research store, global the company has enthusiastically promoted buys their ginger from the Buderim Group,
demand for both categories of the ginger beer its offerings through its digital channels and which offers its own Buderim Ginger & Vodka
market reached combined sales of US$7.5 partnerships with key influencers. and Ginger Beer and Spiced Rum with 4.5 per
billion in 2018 and are expected to generate In the UK, Halewood International intensified cent alcohol and non-alcoholic Ginger Beer &
revenues of US$10.85 billion by 2025. The US the alcoholic ginger beer boom in early 2012 Pear and other cordials.
is by far the biggest market for domestic and with the launch of Crabbie’s Alcoholic Ginger Also in Queensland, Bundaberg Brewed
imported brands, but continental Europe and Beer, which quickly became the country’s Drinks has been making Australia’s “favourite”
the Asia/Pacific region are also expected to up top-selling ale. The reason behind the success non-alcoholic ginger beer for over 50 years and
their intake of ginger beer. is clear. The product appealed to Boomer its products are sold in 60 countries. In 2018,
The big daddy of alcoholic ginger beverages drinkers with nostalgic memories of ginger wine the company signed with Pepsi to distribute its
is Stone’s Original Ginger Wine, a fortified wine and beer and younger drinkers and women products in the US. The partnership has been
made from a fermented blend of ground ginger who fueled the RDT and cider-over-ice craze. such a success that the company is currently
root and raisins. Famed as a winter warmer and A stroll down the aisles of Dan Murphy’s building a new $100 million factory in three
the fisherman’s friend or mixed with Scotch, and other major liquor retailers confirms the stages to meet the increased demand.
lemonade, bitter lemon or served over ice, popularity of alcoholic ginger beer in Australia. But flavouring something with ginger isn’t
it’s still in strong demand in Australia and its Crabbie’s has repeated its success here and always the fast-track to success. Coca-Cola
British birthplace. shelves are filled with names such as James has had some very well-publicised product
Its - ahem - roots stretch back to 1740 Squire, Hawkesbury Brewing Co, Matilda failures from New Coke, the poster child for
and the foundation of The Finsbury Distilling Bay, Matso’s, Brookvale Union from CUB and product misfires, to Tab Clear, Diet Coke Plus
Company in London. At that time the British many more. Green Tea and a series of flavoured Cokes.
capital was awash with grim streetscapes According to IBISWorld, the global industry In 2016, the titan of the soft drink world
immortalised in Hogarth’s famous print, Gin researcher, ginger beer has become one of test-marketed a limited-edition Coca-Cola
Lane. To ward off widespread drunkenness, the the fastest-expanding alcoholic beverage Ginger in Australia as a world-first. Targeted
British government passed the excise act that categories in Australia over the past two to at young adults, it was meant to disrupt the
prevented distillers selling direct to the public. three years, growing by over 80 per cent as market and attract former Coke drinkers who
The Finsbury Distilling Company pivoted, as more drinkers seek out lower alcohol offerings has strayed from the fold. Following a multi-
we now like to say, to develop a retail network and drinks with health benefits. In addition to million promotional campaign and availability
to sell their products. Joseph Stone, a grocer the major players, craft brewers have also in Coles, Woolworths, petrol and convenience
in High Holborn, was one of the company’s dived into the sector and The Welder’s Dog stores, the idea fell flat. As Coca-Cola learned
main accounts and they named their ginger Farmhouse Ginger Beer became the first of its once again, don’t tamper with a sure thing
wine after him. kind to crack the Hottest 100 list in 2018. But chasing a trend.
A huge array of popular tastings on offer this issue from Australia’s workhorse region of Inland Rivers to Sweet
Whites & Fortifieds, amazing Organic/Biodynamic wines to Cabernet & Bordeaux styles and back through to the
next issue: Adelaide Hills.
APRIL 2021
Wine & Gourmet Japan
21-23 April, 2021
Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo, Japan
Details at: www.wineandgourmetjapan.com
MAY 2021
Worlds Greatest Shiraz Challenge XVI
National Wine Centre, Adelaide
Event TBA.
JULY 2021
Emerging & Alternative Varietals
Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth
Event TBA.
SEPTEMBER 2021
Winestate Wine of the Year 2021 Subscriber Tasting
National Wine Centre, Adelaide
Event TBA.
NOVEMBER 2021
Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (Australia)
Adelaide Convention Centre
Date to be advised
By Invitation only (Trade Only and VIP Guests)
Event TBA.
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