Winestate Magazine - May 2021

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The document discusses wine reviews and news from Australia and New Zealand.

It is a wine buying guide called Winestate that provides reviews and information on wines.

It mentions upcoming wine events organized by Winestate including tastings and award ceremonies.

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE

New Releases FROM BRASH


193 tasted BEGINNINGS TO

THE 2020
Fine Wines
AUSTRIAN
WINE VINTAGE
A CHALLENGING,
YET REWARDING YEAR STELLAR STANDOUT IN A
MOUNTAIN OF WINE
Highland Heritage Estate continues
its stratospheric success

ZEK’S SWANSONG
WA Industry stalwart, Mike Zekulich, hangs up his Tastevin

May/June 2021
Vol 44 Issue 3
$12.00 AUS (inc GST)
Wines of NSW

plus
NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95
US $17.99 GBP £10.95
EUR $9.95 China RMB100
184 tasted
HKD $120 CHF 15.00

Best of the West • McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu


Wines of NSW • New Releases
S M E G’S F IN E S T E V E R

WH E RE PA S S I O N M EE TS P RE CI S I O N, CO M ES A TR UE C ULI N ARY M A S TE RPI E CE

smeg.com.au

Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT


NO.307 MAY/JUNE 2021

Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: editor@winestate.com.au


Managing Editor Lara Simic E: lara@winestate.com.au
NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: michaelcooper.wine@outlook.com
Sub-editor Michael Bates
Administration Lyn Hannam E: administration@winestate.com.au
Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: production@winestate.com.au
Marketing Debra Silver E: sales@winestate.com.au
Tasting Coordinator E: tasting@winestate.com.au
Printing DAI Rubicon
Winestate Web Site E: editor@winestate.com.au
WINESTATE New Zealand Administration
Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: winestate@xtra.co.nz

CONTRIBUTORS

New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley


South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki
Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin
Western Australia Mike Zekulich
Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel
New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW
National Travel Winsor Dobbin
EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW
ASIA Denis Gastin
HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins

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WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,
81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Wine Buying Guide
Copyright 2021 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication
may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, phone +61 8 8357 9277 or
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E-mail editor@winestate.com.au Web Site www.winestate.com.au

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 3


contents
MAY/JUNE 2021

F E A T U R E S

26 FROM BRASH BEGINNINGS TO


FINE WINES
Not having a traditional background
in wine doesn’t seem to have had
any impact on the uber-successful,
newly rebranded, Brash Road
34
Vineyard, writes Mike Zekulich.
Achieving a swag of awards over
season of opposites. Faced with the R E G U L A R S
the past ten years, they continue
challenges of the pandemic and
to put their focus into producing 8 Briefs
changing climatic conditions there
super-premium fine wines from a
are some lovely wines to be had 18 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW
very special single vineyard site that
from these various regions that are
has been refined over this time and 20 European Report with
well worth seeking out. Sally Easton
is now producing at its peak.
22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley
38 ZEK’S SWANSONG
30 STELLAR STANDOUT IN A 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King
After more than 40 years as our
MOUNTAIN OF WINE
loyal Winestate WA contributor 42 Grapevine
Charles Gent explores the very
and a 40-plus successful wine
cool-climate region of Orange, 48 Wine Investment & Collecting
writing career, Mike Zekulich
where it’s not unusual for this area 90 Aftertaste
OAM, has decided it’s time to
to be blanketed in snow, and one
hang up his official tastevin and
of its most successful wineries,
kick back and enjoy some of the
Highland Heritage Estate. Battling
great wines that he has written
these challenging conditions
about over the years. As his last
and the ever-changing global 80 New Releases
contribution, we journey with him
market, both climatically and 86 Best Value Buys under $20
and a band of his mates around
economically, doesn’t seem to be
the Swan Valley, revisiting some of
a concern for this award-winning
the iconic producers of this region
brand who keeps going from W I N E T A S T I N G S
and reminiscing about old stories
strength to strength.
whilst creating some new ones. 52 Best of the West

34 THE 2020 AUSTRIAN WINE 62 Wines of NSW


VINTAGE – A CHALLENGING YET 72 McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek,
REWARDING YEAR Fleurieu & Surrounds
A very interesting vintage report
on our Austrian cousins and their
2020 vintage – which was a growing

26
Winestate Magazine
Issue Number 307
May/June 2021
For a complete list of what we tasted for this
Cover photograph issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au
5phonrf

4 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
When perfection
is achieved
the world
takes notice

grandeurwellington.com.au
201 Blewitt Springs Road,
McLaren Flat, SA 5171
Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
editorial

THERE IS ONLY ONE MAJOR BUSINESS CONVERSATION about the economy


that we are all continuing to talk about and that continues to be Covid; its effect on our health and
wellbeing and the financial ramifications of personal debt and government debt, that it seems
we will be paying on the never, never! Amazingly some sections have done well (particularly
through on-line sales) and through Jobkeeper others have survived! But of course, whilst the
Australian government should be congratulated for its lifesaving initiatives it can be criticised
for allowing the state’s leaders to become little emperors in their own right with wildly different
approaches to the pandemic – some states handling it better than others. As they say luck is
more important than intelligence and both Australia and New Zealand are very lucky in that we
are Islands that can keep out the general spread of the virus.
Whilst this is not a political magazine it is hard not to mention the on-going impact of the virus
which affects everything. Fortunately, the vaccine is being rolled out and states are finally relaxing
many of the rules that have strangled businesses and individuals alike.
On a positive note, it has brought individuals and communities together to help each other out
and that is a great thing. Because there is no international travel (devastating for the tourism
industry) people have been spending in locally, in the regions and on-line and this has been the
saviour for wine companies, particularly for those hit by the vengeful shutdown of the China trade.
This buying support of the Australian consumer has surprised many commentators about the rebound of the Australian economy. It
was supposed to be much worse than it is.
For this to continue post Jobkeeper we need to get out of the house and support hospitality in its hour of need albeit at a safe 1.5
metre range. It may not be the same as before but for the health of the community (and our own) it is important that we continue to
contribute on a regular basis and the rest will look after itself.
For this issue we are pleased to report on our various judgings, including McLaren Vale & Fleurieu, Best of the West, Wines of New
South Wales and New Releases. Like Barossa & Eden Valley, McLaren Vale & Fleurieu enjoy a simpatico relationship where the former
provides the flavour and the latter the elegance and acid structure of the cool climate regions of Langhorne and Currency Creek and
Southern Fleurieu and we can also include Kangaroo Island in this mix. Overall, it can be addressed as the Fleurieu Peninsula, but we
like to keep the cool climate regions as a separate area. It is interesting to note that the legendary winemaker, Wolf Blass won many
a wine show with his combination of McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek fruit.
This year, again because of Covid, we were unable to fly to either Perth or Sydney, and whilst many of the major wine shows were
either cancelled or postponed, we were determined to move ahead. So, we were pleased to assemble groups of expert judges to
do both tastings, focusing on judges who had worked with wineries from either state so that there was no question that they would
not be familiar with the wines. Although as a result numbers were down, we were pleased with the result and pleased to be able to
support the wineries. And finally, we finish with New Releases. Great to see wineries continuing to make good wine and as long as
they do, we will support them in that regard.
Please check out the reviews and make a note of the wines that match your style preference. As I have said before (with apologies to
whoever said the original segue) let’s have a glass of wine for ourselves, one for our partner or friend and one for the country.
We also bid a very fond farewell to one of our longest valued contributors of more than 40 years, WA wine writer Mike Zekulich, who at
84 is retiring from wine writing and definitely deserves to kick back and enjoy a few glasses of the great wine he’s written about over
the years! Thanks, Mike, for being a valued and loyal member of the Winestate family.

Cheers,

Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram.


Peter Simic

Major Sponsors and Supporters

WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 7


briefs

THE VINTAGE FROM HELL Treasury Wine Estates chief executive, Tim Ford, was quoted
as saying: “That’s how we’re going to run the business for the
THERE were six words in all, only six. But in the powerful West
foreseeable future, and we’ve stopped any work on demerger
Australian Newspaper morning daily headline, they said it all: The
options.”
Swan Valley’s vintage from hell. It thundered as the vicious fire
burnt up more than 10,000 hectare of land, 86 houses, numerous
outer buildings, fences, gates, livestock, pets and wildlife on its
TOUGHING IT OUT
terrible path to being one of the worst natural disasters to smash IT’S been a tough 12 months for Victorian winemakers with the loss
the region. Stunned local wine and table grapegrowers including of tourism, wine sales and an important export market, but in the lead
winemaker James Talijancich, who with wife Hilda and parents up to the 2021 vintage one cool climate wine region was fearful of
Peter and Mary were evacuated, said they had never seen anything losing its entire crop due to smoke taint. And it wasn’t smoke taint
like it in a lifetime in the valley. from bushfires but rather controlled burns in the region by the Victorian
James revealed seeing thousands upon thousands of flying red state government.
embers – like stars in the night – against the black background of With grapes just weeks away from picking, Forest Fire Management
the nearby Darling Ranges along with huge black clouds to the Victoria planned to conduct controlled fires around the region’s Wombat
east and north showing where the fire may have started. Forest area in an effort to reduce the risk of future bushfires.
At one stage it was estimated burning bits of Australian bush were The decision has caused deep concern among wine producers.
said to be more than three kilometres ahead of the fire’s face, the One winemaker, Robert Walters at Place of Changing Winds vineyard
wind fanning the searing heat leaving behind devastation that some hired a lawyer in an effort to stop the controlled burns.
referred to as a ‘war zone.’ At one stage, the fire was estimated to A spokesperson for the Forest Fire Management was quoted in
have had a perimeter of 122km with exhausted fire-fighters and Melbourne media as saying: “Smoke from a bushfire has far greater
volunteers doing all they could in the difficult battle. impact on vineyards than smoke from a planned burn.”
Swan Valley industry leader John Griffiths said he was picking
grapes on his vineyard when it was shrouded in smoke. With the LOSSES AND GAINS
help of the WA Agriculture Department unpicked berry samples
were sent to the Australian Wine Research Institute for analysis. YALUMBA’S loss is a big gain for one of Australia’s biggest wine
“You either sent a sample of grapes or a dry wine for smoke taint producers.
– but we sent both,” he said. John described smoke taint as a bit Last year, Accolade Wines lured Yalumba senior winemaker, Nat
like volatile acidity in wine. Cleghorn, to the role of senior winemaker and manager at Katnook
“You get to a point where it is noticeable, to becoming unpleasant, Estate in Coonawarra. In February of this year, Accolade announced
like a dirty ashtray,” he said. that long-time Yalumba senior winemaker, Teresa Heuzenroeder,
would be taking up the role of senior winemaker and manager for
its Tintara, Petaluma and Croser brands.
LIVING IN INTERESTING TIMES
Teresa Heuzenroeder will oversee a period of consolidation for
TO borrow from a popular Chinese saying, one of Australia’s Petaluma after Accolade Wines announced that it had outgrown
biggest wine companies, Treasury Wine Estates, has been living its Adelaide Hills
in interesting times. As the country’s largest exporter of branded winery and production
wines, it has been badly affected by the protracted trade war was moving to the
between Australia and China. In February, it announced a 43% company’s Tintara
drop in profits for the first half year, a reflection of the 212% import facility in McLaren Vale.
tariffs China levied on Australian wine imports. Accolade has plans
In response, the company, like other Australian exporters, says for even further growth
it is working to open up new markets in Asia and is reinvigorating of the Petaluma and
export efforts in the US and the UK. Croser brands.
The company also had to deal with persistent rumours that it
planned to sell off its jewel in the crown, Penfolds wines. The Fairfax LETTING IT FLOW
media in February reported that TWE had cancelled a potential
demerger and the move was no longer in contention with the THE Barossa Valley and Eden Valley wine industries could be
company unveiling plans to split its business into three divisions: the major beneficiaries of an assured supply of additional water
Penfolds, Treasury Premium Brands and Treasury Americas. It also following a move by the South Australian government to request
reported that TWE would be selling off some of its US assets with multi-million-dollar funding for a new feasibility water supply study.
the hope of recouping around $300 million. The government has already invested $1.5 million into identifying
private sector investors to deliver recycled water to the regions.

8 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
briefs

Nearly 3000 people employed in the wine and grape sector in the which was established with a multi-million-dollar government
Barossa account for nearly 10 per cent of national wine sector jobs. and region injection in 2018 in order to promote winery tourism
Long term water security is key to the region’s long-term locally and internationally.
sustainability. The Five Pillars are the Pinot Coast, King Valley Prosecco
Road, Rutherglen Fortified Resurgence, Yarra Valley Culinary
DEMERGER MOVES AHEAD Destination and Central Region.

WOOLWORTHS is back on track with plans to separate from its


Endeavour Drinks group, which includes the nation-wide Dan
Murphy’s and BWS stores.
The restructure was originally set for early last year but the
advent of COVID put it on hold. The company now has named
June this year as its set date for a demerger, a move that will allow
Woolworths to focus on its food/supermarket business side.
The new schedule was outlined when Woolworths announced its
half year results which revealed the impact of COVID on business,
particularly its hotels.
For Endeavour Drinks total sales for the half year increased by
19 per cent to $5.7 billion. COVID continued to drive in-home
consumption, although levels were dropping.
For Woolworths hotels the news wasn’t as good with sales
declining 27.5 per cent for the half to $667 million.
NEW ENDEAVOUR FOR OAKRIDGE
POKOLBIN SHINES PARAGON Wine Estates of the Endeavour Group has purchased
THE Hunter Valley’s major wine centre, Pokolbin, has beaten some premium Yarra Valley wine producer Oakridge Wines. That
of the biggest names in NSW tourism to be voted the top NSW means Oakridge will be part of a complicated Woolworths
destination by the online travel site Wotif.com Aussie Town of the group ownership structure that includes Dan Murphy's and
Year Awards. The town went on to take second place nationally. BWS stores.
In its fourth year, the awards recognises the top 10 locations The acquisition of Oakridge Wines includes the brands and the
across Australia for their contribution to Australian tourism with winery, vineyards of 20.8 hectares (with another 16.6 hectares
destinations rated according to quality of accommodation, leased) and existing grape grower relationships as well as its
affordability and traveller satisfaction. award-winning restaurant and cellar door.
The Top 10 were: Cairns, Pokolbin, Apollo Bay, Mudgee, Lakes Oakridge has been owned by Ilana Atlas and her husband
Entrance, McLaren Vale, Hervey Bay, Exmouth, Port Macquarie Tony d’Aloisio since 2007 and has built a formidable reputation
and The Entrance. for quality under chief winemaker David Bicknell.
The addition of Oakridge extends the Paragon Wine Estates
regional coverage with brands across five premium key wine
A GLIMPSE BEHIND THE VINES
regions in Australia and New Zealand; Oakridge Wines (Yarra
IT seems COVID has given some state wine bodies time to Valley), Chapel Hill (McLaren Vale), Isabel Estate (Marlborough,
be inspired. NZ); Krondorf (Barossa Valley), and Riddoch (Coonawarra).
In February, Wine Victoria, fresh out of LockDown, announced “We are thrilled to welcome Oakridge Wines to our Paragon
the first state-wide marketing campaign and digital search family and look forward to enjoying the magic that the
director for the wine sector. The new Behind The Vines website winemaking team led by chief winemaker David Bicknell will
– vicwines.com.au – is said to be a definitive guide to buying create in vintages to come,” said Endeavour Group managing
Victorian wine. director Steve Donohue.
The website features insider tips from winemakers and a Bicknell is set to stay, saying: “Personally, it’s great to have
detailed bespoke approach which enables wine drinkers to strong support and encouragement to continue 20 years of work
track down top wine suggestions based on their individual at Oakridge, to continue to make wines the way they should be
palates. The site offers comprehensive winery information on made, and to build on our reputation as sustainable farmers.
food and accommodation, sustainable producers or wineries “Joining such a large drinks business will enable us to further
that are pet-friendly and easily accessible for the disabled. improve Oakridge’s fine wine credentials and realise the full
The site also celebrates the state’s Five Wine Pillars plan potential of our vineyards and our team.”

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 9


briefs

SEEING DOUBLE
BEC Hardy Wines has announced a new winemaker: Bec
Swincer. Swincer brings with her over two decades of winemaking
experience.
Bec Hardy, the great-great-great granddaughter of Thomas
Hardy, known as the ‘Father of South Australian wine’ took the reins
from her father Geoff in 2020 to become the owner of Pertaringa,
in its 40th year, whilst Geoff retains ownership of Wines by Geoff
Hardy in the Adelaide Hills featuring the successful brands of K1,
Handcrafted and GMH.
In the six months since the transition, she has overhauled the
DOUBLE GOOD NEWS
McLaren Vale cellar door, developed a number of new varieties
under her eponymous Bec Hardy label, and been chosen by THE recent opening of the Mövenpick Hobart Hotel was double
AusTrade as the only South Australian business in its ‘Remarkable good news for the Tasmanian capital. Not only did it gain
Australian Exporter’ showcase. much-needed luxury rooms in the city centre, but it also added
Bec Swincer has spent time working within leading wineries in Tesoro - a new gourmet destination for both locals and visitors.
Clare Valley, Barossa Valley and the Adelaide Hills, where she was Mövenpick is a Swiss brand, known globally for its ice creams
winemaker for Petaluma. as well as its hotels, but this is its first property in Australia.
She studied Oenology at the University of Adelaide and the There are 221 rooms over levels three to 18, but the hotel has
University of California, Davis and is returning to Australia following a more boutique feel. The rooms feature Tasmanian artworks
two years working in California, where she was part of an all-female and have fast free wifi, while Tesoro uses local produce with an
team at The Prisoner Wine Company. Italian spin. The staff are multinational and uniformly efficient -
“It’s been a rewarding experience working in the US and learning not always a Hobart strength. As is the case in all Movenpick
about the different approach to winemaking and progressive hotels, there is a daily chocolate hour each afternoon with
techniques that are being introduced there, but it’s great to be able guests offered chocolate-inspired treats, drinks and cocktails.
to come back home to Australia and McLaren Vale in particular, with The lobby level is warm and welcoming with plenty of shared
its welcoming community of passionate winemakers," Swincer said. spaces, stunning art and plenty of power points, and flows into
"Having come from an all-female team and as a mother of the hotel’s eatery, which boasts a broad selection of cocktails
daughters, it’s really exciting to be part of a brand that celebrates and local and imported wines (think names like Chatto, Holyman
women pushing forward in the industry. and Waterton Hall). Web check-in is available. Mövenpick Hotel
"As Pertaringa and Bec Hardy Wines enter a new era, it’s a huge Hobart boasts a flexible function space for up to 100 guests,
opportunity for me to make my mark and play a part in something which can also be divided into two. The rooms are stylish
really special. and spacious - even in their smallest iteration. The beds are
“Joining just before harvest means I’ll be getting stuck in comfortable and the design well thought out with plenty of
immediately – first up is the pick of the Pertaringa sauvignon blanc. plugs and USB ports at bedside, effective lighting and even a
The mild growing season so far is promising fantastic quality for wireless charging port. TVs come with Chromecast so guests
our reds and whites, which is really exciting.” can cast Netflix or Stan from their own devices. Mini bars are
For more details see www.bechardy.com.au. "order only" in these Covid times, while the best views of the

10 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
briefs

Hobart waterfront come from the higher levels - and were superb
from 1801, where we were lodged.
The Mövenpick entrance lobby - and that of Tesoro - are in the
Hobart bus mall precinct, however hotel guests can drive their
vehicles in for valet parking under a "local traffic" exemption.
There are several eating options within a couple of hundred
metres, and the waterfront is just a short stroll away. Accor
Pacific CEO, Simon McGrath, said: “Mövenpick Hotel Hobart
transcends the traditional hotel experience by masterfully
blending the brand’s Swiss heritage with a premium hospitality
experience.
"We’re so excited to share this stunning property with guests
visiting Hobart from other parts of Tasmania and Australia.
Accor is planning more locations for Mövenpick across the
Pacific and we believe this premium brand will quickly gain
recognition for its culinary and service excellence.”
Then there is Tesoro, quickly becoming a favourite with the
locals. The range of Cape Grim steaks, dry-aged in house, are
a star attraction and bloody delicious, particularly alongside
plates of grilled asparagus with black garlic, parmesan, truffle
oil and poached egg. Risottos of locally foraged mushrooms the distilling pot to create an aromatic and flavour-rich juice.
and Tasmanian truffle oil are also popular, along with local The gin has a rich medicinally flavoured goodness.
seafood dishes. The dessert panacotta with Prosecco and wild “The Myrcene Hemp Gin has become a staple spirit for so
berries is a star turn. many households, and the feedback we constantly receive
Executive Chef Trent Whelan said: “For the team at Tesoro, about the beverage is nothing short of amazing,” said Alexandra
it’s important we showcase the exceptional produce for which Poznyak, managing director of Treeline Beverages, a division
Tasmania is known, along with Italian cuisine. of The Cannabis Company.
"Simple food and ingredients sourced through local, “The cannabis sativa plant is one of the world’s most
sustainable and ethical producers – many of whom we know restorative botanicals, used by healers for thousands of years.
personally – form the foundation of our food ethos." We’re excited to offer a drink that not only tastes good, but also
Tesoro is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. See www. does good, using some of the world’s best-quality hemp grown
tesorohobart.com.au. Mövenpick Hotel Hobart, 28 Elizabeth right here in Australia.
Street, Hobart TAS 7000. To book, visit www.all.accor.com “We are on a mission to promote the natural healing power
of the cannabis plant, challenging the orthodox principles of
FEEL GOOD BOTANICALS the big pharmaceutical companies, and Western medicine.”
See www.cannabiscompany.com.au. The Myrcene Hemp Gin
FANCY a little bit of cannabis infused in your gin? The Cannabis
is not intended to be, or consumed as, a medicinal product.
Company’s Myrcene Hemp Gin is billed as a feel-good spirit to
warm us up as the weather gets cooler.
WINE SHINES IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Myrcene Hemp Gin has an earthy aroma and distinctive
earthy flavours as a result of 15 botanicals including juniper, AN American winery has launched a new brand that is bottled
orris, angelica, rosemary, sage, lavender, balanced with a soft in "unbreakable, infinitely recyclable" aluminium bottles.
touch of myrcene, an active terpene in both hemp and hops. It Sonoma County producer Limerick Lane Cellars calls the
is known for its restorative and healing properties. range Revelshine and says the wines are designed for outdoor
Crafted in Healesville in the Yarra Valley, Myrcene Hemp Gin enjoyment.
was the first in Australia and is available online via The Cannabis The range comprises a red blend made from zinfandel, shiraz
Company and at Dan Murphy’s stores ($99). It is promoted as and durif; a chardonnay/grenache blanc blend and a GSM rosé
100% Australian grown, organic and made using the cannabis with a touch of grenache blanc.
sativa plant, grown in Tasmania. The terpenes are added into The lightweight packaging was created by New York-based

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 11


briefs

branding agency Motto and the surfboard, guitar, campfire Hotel General Manger Mark Winterton said: “This is a time when
and backpack icons on the back of the bottle emphasise the Australians are exploring their own backyard, so upgrading the hotel's
al fresco message. resort facilities is very well-timed by Dr Schwartz.
“While my work life has always led me through wine, my “The Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley is now a one-stop destination for
passion and love is the outdoors," says brand founder Jake families, couples and groups of friends. Our resort offers 414 hotel
Bilbro. "Rivers, mountains, beaches, music festivals – this is rooms and villas, 18-hole championship golf course, two swimming
where I find my inspiration. I realised, along with my other pools and Ubika Day Spa."
friends who are surfers, skiers, kayakers, mountain bikers and For more information see www.crowneplazahuntervalley.com.au/
musicians, that you just don’t have good wine where we enjoy water-park/
these activities.
“If you do, it is because you had to go to extraordinary lengths WHEN IN ROME...?
to bring it, such as duct taping your bottles or pouring your
THE brachetto grape is very much a bit-part player in the
good wine into inflatable bladders from previous boxed wine.
diverse and colourful theatre of Italian wine. Brachetto is a
No matter the bottle, glass does not work on the beach or the
red wine grape grown primarily in Piedmont that dates back to
river. And that is how Revelshine was created."
Roman times and Brachetto d'Acqui is made in both still and
Bilbro hopes the wines will be "packed in and packed out,
spumante versions.
so we can preserve the outdoors for the next generation”.
Brachetto tends to produce light-bodied, aromatic wines with
Revelshine has partnered with environmental group “1% for
distinctive notes of candied ripe strawberries. In Brachetto
the Planet” and is working towards adding more sustainable
d'Acqui it produces a slightly sweet sparkling wine that can be
products to the range.
similar to Lambrusco. It has been called a red equivalent of the
sweetish white Moscato d'Asti.
W H E R E W I N E M E E T S W AT E R PA R K
In recent years, brachetto has found a home at Soumah Wines
ADVENTURE in the Yarra Valley, where they produce both a still and a frizzante
WHEN Mum and Dad have had their fill of wine tasting and gourmet (gently sparkling) version that are both defiantly pink in colour.
excursions, kids can enjoy themselves at the new heated water park Both wines are low in alcohol and offer brightness, freshness
at Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley Resort. and delightful summer refreshment when enjoyed lightly chilled.
Now open to guests of the hotel, the new Water Splash Park was The 2020 Brachetto Frizzante ($28) is described as like
designed and built by White Water Australia and is over two storeys "liquid Turkish delight with the sweet flavours of rose water
high, complete with an assortment of slides, flutes, showers, water and strawberries", while the 2020 Brachetto Tranquillo ($32)
cannons and jets designed to entertain the whole family. is a lovely aperitif or dessert wine with a remarkably similar
The Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley - part of the IHG Group - offers the flavour profile.
most comprehensive collection of kids facilities and activities in the Pizzini, Parish Hill and La Fattoria are among the other
region with the water park adding to a mini-train, carousel, a converted Australian producers of brachetto.
tug boat, the Water Dragons kids club, pony rides and the new Hunter For details see www.soumah.com.au.
Valley Kids Cottage.
“The Hunter Valley has perhaps been seen more as a destination for FRENCH FLAIR WITH HARBOUR VIEWS
adults wanting to go to wineries, play golf or attend conferences, but
EXECUTIVE chef Eric Costille and his team will call on his French
we've transformed the Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley into a resort for both
heritage as he launches the new southern French-inspired menu
discerning adults and children,” said hotel owner Dr Jerry Schwartz.
at the Atelier by Sofitel, the signature restaurant at Sofitel Sydney
“The missing ingredient in the resort's inventory was a water park,
Darling Harbour.
and I'm pleased to say this has really added something substantial to
Costille and executive sous chef Gaurav Bide will be presenting
the Hunter Valley's tourism attractions.
classic French dishes with authentic taste profiles. Costille joined
“Importantly, the water is heated through our environmentally-friendly
the hotel in 2018 following a career in Michelin-starred restaurants
Cogen plant that also heats the resort's main pool. The addition of
in his native south of France and more recently in several five-star
heated water will make it attractive for families visiting during much
hotels in Asia, has been carefully considering the new culinary
of the year.”
vision for the hotel.

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briefs

“In a restaurant where creativity is king, culinary inspiration and a menu which will deliver a selection of French classics
flows and fresh ingredients are transformed, I believe there is infused with a modern culinary twist.”
an opportunity to raise the bar on how our guests and visitors Think dishes like a plancha of XL Yamba prawns flambéed in Pastis,
experience hotel dining," he said. or whole market fish Niçoise, and Provençal Vegetable, a twist on the
"Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour has a cultural link to traditional Provençal dish, using baked eggplant and spring onions
Marseille and, as such, I wanted to take my inspiration from the along with fresh artichoke heart and ratatouille. Atelier's signature
Mediterranean and south of France and bring together a kitchen dishes also include an elegant lamb shank navarin and the l'assiette
de legumes, a vegan dish served with tofu-olive polenta, glazed
yellow endive, king oyster mushroom and confit beetroot ketchup.
As part of the new menu, Costille is using a Mibrasa grill that
delivers an authentic charcoal barbecue flavour.
The wine selection covers France, Australia, New Zealand and Italy
and are featured in the 800-bottle wine and Champagne wall that
connects Atelier by Sofitel to Sydney's only hotel Champagne Bar.
Atelier by Sofitel is open for dinner Thursday to Sunday. Visit www.
sofiteldarlingharbour.com.

EMBRACING THE DARKNESS


AUSTRALIA’S midwinter solstice festival Dark Mofo has
announced its 2021 festival will go ahead from June 16-22 in
Hobart, Tasmania. The festival was cancelled in 2020 due to
Covid-19.
“Dark’s back, which, in the immortal words of Mark Spitz,
who was also making a comeback, ‘could be good, could
be great, could be terrible’," said MONA Museum owner and
festival guru David Walsh.
"Mark didn’t mention that there is another possibility: it could
be cancelled. But it would not be worth doing if there was no
risk. There’s lots of risk, so it must really be worth doing.”
Leigh Carmichael, Dark Mofo creative director said: “It’s with

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 13


briefs

the heart of the Barossa, Fine Acres Estate is close to some of


the best restaurants, wineries and produce in South Australia.
some trepidation that we announce Dark Mofo will descend in The homestead is located between the three principal towns
2021 from June 16-22.” of Tanunda, Nuriootpa and Angaston.
“Like everyone else, we have been soul searching for almost The renovation took 18 months to complete and mixes
a year, trying to understand our place in a changed world. Last Hamptons-style interior with original 19th-century features to
year we lost our sense of purpose overnight, and it appears create a private space in a 28-hectare working vineyard. The
that experience is having a resounding impact on this year's homestead overlooks the vines and comprises three suites
festival program. Our patrons will be pleased to know they can that have been designed to be used as either a communal
expect a typically grim and gloomy affair in June.” accommodation space, or, alternatively, can be divided for
“This year the festival will run for one week only, making it separate bookings. It can accommodate between 10 and
smaller and more intense." 14 guests.
“We’re dropping all sponsorship activations, as we felt they The Indelicato and Chizen suites are designed for larger
were having a detrimental effect on the festival. While we have groups of up to six people, each fitted with a living space
appreciated the support from many high-profile brands, we with Smart TVs, a gas fireplace, gourmet kitchen, en-suite
want to be able to pursue our own cultural agenda free from bathrooms, free wifi and access to the large communal
restraint and with a renewed commitment to the art.” entertaining deck with a gas barbecue that overlooks the
This year is the final year of the festival’s five-year agreement vineyard. With room for two guests, the Day suite is perfect
with the Tasmanian Government. Dark Mofo’s future beyond for a more intimate getaway with spectacular views from the
this event is not clear or guaranteed. bedroom that opens out to a small private deck.
“The Hobart City Council have withdrawn financial support “We want to give people the best that Australia’s greatest
and this will impact the scope and scale of the Winter Feast, wine region has to offer,” says co-owner Sandy Day.
which will be reduced to five nights," said Carmichael. “We support the local community wherever possible, with
“While our future is a little uncertain, we are optimistic that most of the renovations carried out by local Barossa-based
there is enough gunpowder in the barrel to propel us into 2022.” artisans and tradesmen.
The full Dark Mofo program was announced in April 2021. “We also have a few pieces of incredible indigenous artwork
See www.darkmofo.net.au. on display from talented artists Janet Golder from Utopia in
Central Australia and Carolanne Ken from Anangu Pitjantjatjara
Yankunytjatjara (APY) Lands of South Australia.”
LATEST BAROSSA LUXURY MIGHTY FINE
Fine Acres Estate also offers a unique underground
FINE Acres Estate is the latest luxurious accommodation option experience, with an original 1870s cellar restored and ready for
in the Barossa. The newly renovated Barossa homestead, enjoying a wine tasting experience or dinner among the barrels.
founded in the 1870s and re-designed by Jamie Gladigau from All guests receive a breakfast hamper upon arrival, full of local
JBG Architects, is imagined as an ideal base for exploring the Barossa produce, as well as complimentary bottles of Vineyard Road
cellar doors of the Barossa region. wine and a selection of chocolates from Barossa Valley Chocolate
Located in Vine Vale, an hour’s drive from Adelaide and in Company. View more details at www.fineacres.com.au.

14 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
Network with wine Wine packaging webinar Celebrate the best wine
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briefs

QUALITY EATS
VERA at Beechworth has built a reputation as a quality winery
eatery since opening in February. Part of the Glenbosch Estate
winery, but separate from the cellar door, it offers views and
lunches from Friday to Mondays.
Vera is also home to regular private functions and receptions.
The cellar door offers wine and spirit tastings, while the restaurant
features shared plates highlighting local produce. There are two
stages of seven savoury plates for $65 per person with the option to
MAGNIFICENT MANSFIELD add desert. Think plates like sardines with local apple remoulade;
cured salmon with Glenbosch gin and tonic-pickled cucumbers
WITH a blend of stunning natural beauty, laid-back country vibes and
and goat meatballs with pepper and tomato ragu and buckwheat
a dab of city chic, Mansfield is right now one of the High Country’s
polenta. See www.glenbosch.com.au.
hottest getaway destinations.
After a tumultuous year, the town (and its surrounding villages of
Bonnie Doon, Jamieson and Merrijig) have emerged rejuvenated SMALL BUT SIGNIFICANT
and buzzing with a range of exciting new visitor experiences from IT may only be a small town but Rutherglen fights well above
luxurious accommodation to cool places to eat, drink and explore. its weight division when it comes to gourmet diversions. This
Gourmets can grab a table or takeaway from chef Tristan Keen’s is a historic wine growing area invigorated by a crop of bold
Asian-Australian menu at fun and funky new casual bar and eatery, young winemakers. Take in stunning gold rush streetscapes,
The Fields. Thinks dishes like crispy prawn dumplings with black explore the surrounding vineyards, and enjoy outdoor fun in
vinegar and soy, and sesame furikake. the nearby lakes and rivers.
Swiftcrest Distillery’s Hank and Carrie Thierry hand craft a You certainly will not go thirsty in Rutherglen, home to world-
range of spirits - like Vanilla Bean vodka, Alpine Spring gin admired fortified wines, robust reds and crisp white wines since
and Dutch Apple Pie moonshine - from local and organic the early 1800s. Visit revitalised cellar doors and meet fourth
ingredients and offer tours and tastings at their off-grid farm and fifth generation winemakers drawing on family tradition and
outside Mansfield. modern techniques to keep Rutherglen on the map. Learn about
BullerRoo at a View To A Hill is perched on a hilltop with winemaking and taste premium wines at the Rutherglen Wine
fabulous views across the Barwite Valley to the Broken River. Experience and Visitor Information Centre. Explore the scenic
Enjoy luxurious accommodation, incredible night skies and winery circuit in a hired limousine or tour bus or cycle the banks
meet cute pygmy goats. of the Murray River to wineries along the Muscat Trail.
For nature lovers, Mansfield Glamping offers next-level luxury Hedonistic types can linger at cellar door restaurants like Tuileries
stays in bell tents. Accommodation comes with the options of at Jolimont Cellars, or settle in at picnic areas among the vines.
a breakfast hamper, gourmet produce platter, locally sourced Spend long afternoons in country pubs. One “must do” is to save
wine or artisan barbecue pack. Book for a private massage or room for an iconic Parker pie.
on-site yoga class. The Rutherglen region is the perfect spot for outdoor
Monnie from Mansfield Bushwalks shares her local knowledge adventures with the family. Cast a line in the Murray, pedal
and favourite secret places on fun, tailored pack-free short walks along the riverbanks or cruise the waters in boats, canoes
and guided scenic tours of Mansfield and surrounds. Or soar high and kayaks. Pick up a bike at St Leonard's Winery and explore
above the landscape in a hot air Global Balloon flight. the region at your own pace. Join the Pedal to Produce Cycle
Visitors to Mansfield can also explore a slice of Australia’s longest Trail to sample the wine, fruit and produce at local orchards,
off-road rail trail - the Great Victorian Rail Trail - which starts in wineries and cafes.
Mansfield and traverses a whopping 134km through beautiful
rural scenery.
SAVING THE CELEBRATIONS
Coming soon is Delatite Wines’ swanky new cellar door, with
incredible, panoramic views straight to Mt Buller. THE 160th birthday celebrations for landmark Victorian winery
An easy 2.5 hours from Melbourne, Mansfield is an ideal weekend Tahbilk were put on hold for a third time as a result of Covid-19
getaway destination and is the jumping off point for Mt Buller and Mt lockdowns. Tahbilk, Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery, was
Stirling winter snow and summer adventures, Lake Eildon, camping, established in 1860 on the banks of the Goulburn River in the
fly fishing, houseboating, guided walks, horse treks and wild hiking. Nagambie Lakes region.

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Two dates in 2020 - the first in August, then in December - to The Celebrate Italy in the High Country tour costs $2375 per
mark the winery's anniversary had to be scrapped and the person twin share inclusive of accommodation in the Colonial Motor
Purbrick family also had to abandon celebrations planned for Inn in Bright, all activities and meals with wine.
February 22-23. Celebrate Italy in the High Country is one of several new Victoria-
"It's with sadness and much frustration that we have decided based tours introduced by Hedonistic Hiking for 2021. Other
to postpone this event for the third time but it's our intention to hiking destinations covered by the new tour collection include
reschedule when vaccination roll out has been completed in the Grampians, the Goldfields Track in Central Victoria, and the
Australia and we have entered a safe and stable post Covid-19 Great Ocean Walk. Tours are graded 1-5, with 5 being the most
era," said CEO Alister Purbrick. challenging. All tours have a strong gastronomic focus, featuring
"We'll monitor the current Victorian outbreak and the wine tastings, picnic lunches that showcase local produce, and
vaccination roll out and confirm our intentions with regard to dinners with outstanding wine.
holding this event around July-August 2021. It's certainly been Hedonistic Hiking was established in 2007 by Anglo-Australian
a rollercoaster ride." couple, Jackie and Mick
Purbrick added: “Clearly the pandemic has affected Tahbilk Parsons, who design, research and lead all the tours in Australia
from a travel and tourism perspective, but the Tahbilk team are and Europe. Further
completely confident that these unforeseeable circumstances information from www.hedonistichiking.com or call 0428 198 918.
will see Tahbilk come back stronger than ever.”

HILTON GIVES HERITAGE A FACELIFT


TASTE OF ITALY ON OUR DOORSTEP HILTON Hotels has opened the doors to a complete revamp
YOU might not be able to go to Italy right now, but you can still of Melbourne's heritage-listed Equity Chambers into Hilton
enjoy a taste of Europe in the High Country of north-east Victoria Melbourne Little Queen Street (Hilton Melbourne LQS).
with Hedonistic Hiking. Located in the heart of the city, the upscale hotel has been
Based in Bright, the four-night Celebrate Italy hiking tour designed by leading Australian architecture studio Bates Smart.
includes wine tastings, dinners with award-winning wines in local Built in 1931, Melbourne's Equity Chambers was renowned for its
restaurants, a unique foraging and pasta-making experience and architectural style and Italian Romanesque and Gothic detailing.
perhaps a visit to La Fiera Italian festival in Myrtleford. Its rebirth has original features restored along with a six-level
A highlight of the tour is a rare opportunity to forage for extension with a 16-level tower. Within its historic walls, the
wild mushrooms and learn how to make pasta with one of the old and new have been combined, with sandstone, European
region's best-loved Italian chefs, Patrizia Simone. Learn the oak and bronze materials against the backdrop of grand
secrets of pasta-making in a hands-on class with Patrizia, high ceilings, marble stone finishes and upholstery in navy,
followed by a delicious lunch in her own home. The celebrated taupe and royal blue. External and internal artworks include
former restaurateur, cooking school owner and author of 'My a tribute to the city's thriving graffiti-art scene. The hotel's
Umbrian Kitchen', grew up in the Italian region of Umbria. guest rooms feature prints by Melbourne photographer Roger
The tour includes hikes Arnall, commissioned to explore Melbourne architecture in his
in the hills above the pretty unique minimalist style. The pieces capture iconic Melbourne
country town of Bright and the landmarks including the Royal Exhibition Centre, Flinders Street
heritage-listed gold mining Station and Federation Square.
village of Wandiligong, and Entered from Bourke Street, Hilton Melbourne LQS's Luci
from the plateau of Mount restaurant and The Douglas Club cocktail bar have their own
Buffalo to Lake Catani and entrance independent of the hotel's laneway lobby. Executive
the iconic Mount Buffalo chef Sam Moore has unveiled a classic modern Australian menu,
Chalet. Hiking days range accented with hints of Italian and European culinary traditions.
from three to 13km and are The Douglas Club replicates a classic cocktail bar.
punctuated by Hedonistic The hotel will have 244 guest rooms and suites as well as
Hiking's trademark picnic a large balcony event space with city skyline views, a mural
lunches, savoured in scenic by Kitt Bennett, seven meeting and event spaces and a fully
locations at local farms and equipped gym.
on the shores of Lake Catani. Visit melbour nelittlequeenstreet.hilton.com for more
information.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 17


nzbriefs
what’s happening in the NZ wine scene
EMMA JENKINS MW

HARVEST UNDERWAY
AT the time of press, harvest is well underway throughout New
Zealand with vignerons feeling optimistic about the quality
of incoming grapes. After an unsettled spring, the weather
has largely been warm and dry throughout the growing
season, though Central Otago experienced a few temperature
rollercoasters with snow on the hills occurring in both January
and February. March brought significantly cooler overnight
temperatures throughout the country which slowed the
ripening pace, preserving acid, balancing potential alcohols
and enhancing phenolic development, leaving winemakers
LAWSON’S DRY HILLS CERTIFIED CARBON enthusiastic about their crop’s health and flavour. Clive Paton of
ZERO Ata Rangi in Martinborough says, “It’s shaping up to be a good
vintage. We’ve had really interesting weather… quite a big
MARLBOROUGH producer Lawson’s Dry Hills gets to celebrate
diurnal shift - the difference between night and day - and that’s
their 30th harvest alongside another special milestone – achieving
what we like.” Much like the 2020 vintage, the current harvest
carbon zero status. By quantifying and reporting their greenhouse
is likely to deliver quality without generous quantities. This
gas emissions and removals, they met the requirements of
may spell some supply-side frustration but for now it presents
ISO14064, receiving Toitu Envirocare accreditation. This builds
a silver lining in terms of harvest labour. The closed New
upon Lawson’s Dry Hills’ ongoing sustainability efforts – in 2011
Zealand borders have prevented the usual influx of seasonal
they achieved the environmental management system ISO14001,
RSE workers and backpackers, creating significant ongoing
currently making them the only New Zealand wine producer to
challenges with shortages not only for harvest but throughout
hold both ISOs. General Manager and shareholder, Sion Barnsley
in the growing season for pruning and other vineyard tasks.
comments, “We have always considered sustainability in our
The impact of the closed borders is not only being felt on the
decision-making across the business and to attain carbon zero
production side – the corresponding lack of inbound tourism
status is an achievement we are very proud of. Our small team
is also affecting wineries throughout the country in terms of
have strongly supported our vision and everyone has contributed
cellar doors and the wider wine tourism trade. Domestic tourism
to this important milestone.” Group Marketing Manager, Belinda
from more New Zealanders travelling throughout the country
Jackson adds, “We know how important sustainability is
has plugged some gaps, and many wineries have adapted
becoming for those making purchasing decisions, so we’re
in a variety of clever ways to the changing times, there’s no
delighted that our environmental credentials add further value
denying the months of missing tourists are taking their toll.
to those enjoying our wines.”
Now more than ever is a great time to buy the New Zealand
wines and producers you love, to visit where and when you
can (roll on that trans-Tasman travel bubble!), as handily this
is beneficial for both for your own pleasure and also to help
ensure all those favourite producers will still be going strong
this time next year.

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nzbriefs
what’s happening in the NZ wine scene
EMMA JENKINS MW

significant opportunity in Trinity Hill and look forward to being


part of its growth and development in the future.” Founded in
1993 as the brainchild of the UK proprietors of London’s famed
‘Bleeding Heart’ restaurant, Robyn and Robert Wilson, and
winemaker John Hancock, Trinity Hill was one of the pioneering
wineries that helped put the Gimblett Gravels sub-region on
the map, and it remains highly-regarded for its wines, syrah in
particular. The winery went through some previous ownership
CERES GOES DICEY
ups-and-downs when in 2017, United States investor Charles
FANS of Central Otago producer Ceres need not worry that Banks was sentenced to four years in prison for fraud. Banks
the label has disappeared, instead it’s simply become a was majority shareholder of the Terroir Capital, whose Terroir
little…dicier. Brothers James and Matt Dicey combined their Winery Fund had been granted consent in 2014 by the New
respective viticulture and winemaking skills making the first Zealand Overseas Investment Office (OIO) to acquire a
Ceres commercial vintage together in 2006, have now retired majority shareholding of the winery. The OIO duly removed
the name in favour of Dicey. The range remains the same, all Bank’s shareholding in Terroir on the basis “of not being of
sourced from the three Bannockburn Vineyards, one each good character” and the Wilson’s re-established control. The
owned by James and Matt, plus their parents Robin and new owners’ purchase of the winery and its Gimblett Gravels
Margi. The smart new Dicey packaging reflects the colours vineyards sees Trinity Hill under New Zealand stewardship and
of the region, the familial connection as well as perhaps with a bright future.
their natural inclination to shake things up a little. Matt Dicey
previously held the role of chief winemaker at family business
HAWKE’S BAY WINE AUCTION
Mt Difficulty, before its sale to Foley Family Wines in 2019,
while James continues to run Grape Vision, a viticultural THE Hawke’s Bay Wine Auction celebrates its 30th year with
contracting company. 2021’s annual auction being held Saturday 18th September.
There are 40 unique lots donated by a wide array of Hawke’s
Bay wineries, including large formats (if you’ve ever wanted
TRINITY HILL NEW OWNERS
a barrel of your favourite Hawke’s Bay red, this is your
HAWKE’S Bay’s Trinity Hill has been purchased by a group chance), old, rare and specially-blended wines, alongside
of private investors and business partners comprising Mitch a featured artist’s lot - this year a beautiful floral painting by
Plaw, Craig Turner, Mark Sandelin and Michael Nock. The John Lancashire (aka Monday Painter) – and a coveted travel
new owners plan for business as usual, and are retaining all package. Each year, the proceeds benefit the local Cranford
current staff and vineyards. Plaw says, “Trinity Hill is a fantastic Hospice, last year a record-breaking $302,275 was donated.
company, with an amazing product and team, and a passionate Tickets go on sale July 1st and absentee bidding is welcomed.
community of valued customers. We are excited to bring Stay up to date with info via the auction’s website: www.
Trinity Hill back to a majority New Zealand ownership. We see hawkesbaywineauction.co.nz.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 19


europeanreport

WORDS SALLY EASTON MW

SHIFTING BOUNDARIES

THE IPCC’s (Intergovernmental panel on Bordeaux Supérieur. This adds to the six used because it ripens late, at a time when
climate change) next Climate Change - black and seven white already permitted: the autumn weather of coolish climate
Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability report merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet Bordeaux is getting damp and cool. In
is not due to be published until later this year, franc, plus bits of carmenere, malbec and the face of climate warming, lateness of
but the current, 2014, version was already petit verdot, for black; semillon, sauvignon ripening is increasingly an asset, to avoid
unequivocal, “Climate change will change blanc, muscadelle plus a few percent of critical ripening during the increasing heat
the geographic distribution of wine grape sauvignon gris, colombard, ugni blanc and of summer.
varieties …”, and elsewhere: “Vineyards merlot blanc for white. What are these ‘new’ varieties? Touriga
may be displaced geographically beyond nacional is a mainstay of Portugal’s Douro
their traditional boundaries,” that is, Where European unfortified and fortified wines (Port). A key
existing appellation boundaries. In Europe asset is its ability to ripen in great heat
appellation regulations tend to be much appellations have a and keep its acidity. Douro wines from
more prescriptive than in Australian GIs. it are already renowned for high quality
There are rules on which grape varieties can known, reputable, of flavour, tannin, concentration and
be grown, what planting density, maximum ageworthiness.
yields, and some, also with details on prestigious style, or The other reds hail from the broader
winemaking options. s o u t h w e s t F r a n c e a re a i n w h i c h
Climate is a fundamental parameter range of styles, climate Bordeaux is located.
of ‘terroir’ – the expression of sense of Arinarnoa, a crossing between cabernet
place. Where European appellations have change risks wiping that sauvignon and tannat, has been around
a known, reputable, prestigious style, or for more than half a century. Tannat is
range of styles, climate change risks wiping out, along with all the another high acid variety, plentifully tannic,
that out, along with all the heritage and late-ripener, already renowned for making
history associated with classic regions. heritage and history ageworthy wines in its home of Madiran. Its
Bordeaux and Champagne arguably top thick skins and loose clusters enable it to
such a pre-eminent list. Both have been associated with classic resist grey rot (botrytis bunch rot) rather well.
researching for some years on how best Castets, described in Robinson, Harding
to preserve their identities in a climate
regions. and Vouillamoz’ ‘Wine Grapes’ book as
changed world. Bordeaux is the first to a “very minor western Pyrenean variety
change some of the rules. The new permitted black grapes are: clinging on in France” may just have been
After more than a decade of research arinarnoa, castets, marselan and touriga given a new lease of life. It also shows
on experimental plantings in Bordeaux of nacional, plus white alvarinho and liliorila. I decent resistance to the three key diseases
52 different grape varieties from various, doubt too many professionals have heard of of European viticulture grey rot, powdery
mainly Mediterranean countries, at the some of these. Varying degrees of disease mildew and downy mildew. Deep colour
beginning of this year INAO, the French resistance, drought-tolerance, acidity seems to be a key wine attribute.
National Institute of Quality and Origin, retention and lateness of ripening were Marselan has already been gaining a little
that oversees and regulates protected important deciding factors. Indeed, high ground, mainly in southern France. It is a
appellations, (all agricultural and food quality, perfumed, powerfully-structured cabernet sauvignon crossing with grenache,
products, including wine), gave official petit verdot, a long time original member also bred more than 50 years ago. Like
approval to four additional black and two of approved grape varieties, has already arinarnoa, it combines quality attributes –
white grape varieties for two Bordeaux seen big increases in plantings (from a tiny in this case: deep colour, perfume, supple
appellations: (generic) Bordeaux and base) in recent years. It was previously little tannin – with needed viticultural attributes –

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late ripening, and resistant to both powdery impossible? This fundamental conundrum
mildew and grey rot.
For the whites, alvarinho is another
will play out, in ways we may not yet be able
to imagine, over the next 20 to 30 years. Perfectly
Portuguese (and Spanish, where it is known Further north (cooler in the northern
as albarino) variety, appreciated for its
tolerance of grey rot. Alvarinho is the name
already listed by the French authorities. It
hemisphere) Champagne also started
researching more than a decade ago,
also, notably, on future-proofing grape
balanced.
is able to ripen at relatively modest sugar varieties. The urgency is arguably greater:
levels, while retaining both good aromas the crisp, racy, sparkling style has modest DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated,
and levels of acidity. Liliorila was bred at temperature ‘flexibility’ in retaining its strict, yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”.
the same time as arinarnoa, in this case signature, sense of place. Added to which,
between baroque (a specialty grape of while global average temperature has Our bold service offering is built on
a small appellation in SW France) and increased by 0.8ºC since the second half of a full-bodied foundation of vast
general commercial experience, yet
chardonnay. Its aromatic concentration has the 1800s (IPCC definition of ‘pre-industrial
overlaid with distinctive specialist
won favour over its rather low acidity and times’), the Champagne appellation’s 2019
expertise in a number of key
early ripening demeanour. report ‘Climate change – adaptation in the
industries and niche market
The Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur Champagne region’ identified the region’s
sectors.
appellations account for about half of all temperature is increasing at a faster rate:
Bordeaux production – but not the really compared to the 30-year average to 1990, It’s a winning combination that
posh, expensive, stuff. The grapes will be the region’s temperature has increased by allows every client who opens a
limited to a maximum of 10% of any wine an average of 1.1ºC. “case” to get exactly what they
blend, and may be in wines from 2024. Of As in Bordeaux, there are more already- need. So whatever your business
course, all things are subject to change permitted grape varieties for Champagne or legal objectives, don’t hesitate
according to how well this list achieves the than many people are likely familiar with. to contact us.
aims of retaining a familiar style and quality Alongside classic pinot noir, chardonnay At DW Fox Tucker, every
range of Bordeaux wines. and meunier, another four varieties make client matters.
One of the most pressing issues driving up the final less than 1% of Champagne
change in Bordeaux concerns merlot, which plantings: pinot blanc, arbane, petit meslier
is particularly susceptible to increasing and pinot gris. Since 2014, arbane and petit
temperature, not least because it is relatively meslier have been involved in crossbreeding
early ripening. As ripening becomes earlier, programmes, along with the main three L14, 100 King William Street
towards the heat of the season rather than varieties, plus gouais blanc (a parent of Adelaide SA 5000
during the cooling end of season, merlot both chardonnay and petit meslier) to
p: +61 8 8124 1811
readily produces high sugars (alcohol), at breed, eventually, four or five varieties that e: info@dwfoxtucker.com.au
the cost of both acid levels and aromatic can help to uphold the vinous identity and
dwfoxtucker.com.au
potential. The significance is magnified integrity of Champagne in a warming world.
because merlot comprises about 60% of As in Bordeaux, ripening period, disease COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES
the total Bordeaux vineyard area. Merlot’s tolerance and wine quality attributes are ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY
imprint on key Bordeaux blends is strong, among the selection criteria. It’s estimated INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY
RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES
especially right bank appellations, including that the Champenois may be another ten
SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS
St. Emilion and Pomerol. What happens years away from completing this element COMPENSATION
to Bordeaux’ identity if merlot becomes of their research.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 21


winetutor

WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY

TEMPRANILLO FLYING SOLO

TEMPRANILLO has probably more after – it can take a bit to get good tannin I asked Frank what first attracted him
synonyms than any other grape variety. ripeness.” Birds also like tempranillo. to plant it. “Originally I was attracted to
It is Spain’s most popular black grape “We net it all, but they still try to find their it because it was different, but now the
found in many regions, but especially way in,” Frank sighs. So, there are a few appeal lies in how well we find it suits
famous in Rioja, where it can be blended seasonal challenges facing growers, but our site. It does work well in a variety of
with garnacha, mazuelo (AKA carignan) it can start even earlier with planting the regions, but I think it excels in continental
and graciano. In the higher altitude right clonal material. Frank explains, “We climates. You don’t get the same cherry-
cooler Ribera del Duero region, it is originally planted D8V12 from Victoria cola/savoury aromatics in any other
known as Tinto Fino or Tinta Fina, and and that had leafroll virus type 5, so we variety I’ve met, and it can make wines
is blended with cabernet sauvignon. of the sort of structure and power that
Here you can find some of Spain’s most only a handful of other varieties can
sought-after wines such as Vega Sicilia Generally, tempranillo achieve.” Canberra District’s generally
and Dominio de Pingus. Widespread cool climate means that the grape can
plantings are increasingly found in produces medium-bodied retain its acidity and produce more
Portugal where it makes a dry red under elegant styles. This, coupled together
the synonym of, again, Tinto Fino and wines with soft acidity. with the red volcanic and limestone soils,
Aragonez. Travel to other parts of Spain make it an interesting site for the grape
and it is known as Tinta Madrid, Tinta
It displays fruity black and not dissimilar to Northern Spain.
del Pais and Tinta de Toro. In Australia, G e n e r a l l y, t e m p r a n i l l o p ro d u c e s
plain old tempranillo remains one of the
cherry character and medium-bodied wines with soft acidity.
fringe alternative grape varieties and if It displays fruity black cherry character
has high levels of
you search academic work prior to 1990 and has high levels of glycerine which
there is little reference to it being planted. produces a silky texture. Tannins are
glycerine which produces
Temprano means early in Spanish which generally moderate to high. Australia
is maybe how the grape variety got its a silky texture. produces a number of different styles
name as it ripens early. The vine can from unwooded fruit driven wines to
either be trellised or grown as a bush serious oak matured, structured and
vine. Cropping levels can vary, but for replaced it with clean material from South age worthy styles. Strict water control
Frank van de Loo, viticulturist turned Australia of the same clone. We now have is essential to restrict the size of the
winemaker at Mount Majura Vineyard several other clones as well, but D8V12 berries to obtain good quality fruit.
in the Canberra District, they are low. is the bulk of what we make and we are When grown on fertile soils the wines
“There is sensitivity to powdery mildew, very happy with it.” Mount Majura started can be light bodied with red fruits,
but we usually manage that without making wine in 2003 from the young vines restricting the yield and water produces
much trouble. In some seasons we wish but it wasn’t until 2013 that the vineyard more fleshy medium bodied wines with
the canopy would hold off senescing had matured enough to produce single better tannins. In cool climates the wines
(leaves turning autumnal) a little longer site bottlings. It is a long process and display more spice and savoury notes
in order to get the ripeness that we’re under appreciated by most drinkers. and more tannin again.

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The Rioja region produces wines that own as a varietal here. “Our wines have
show the special side of tempranillo. To a good level of acidity which is often a
be labelled a Gran Reserva, for instance, bit soft in Rioja where it is balanced by
it must first be from a great vintage and the addition of garnacha and graciano,”
then undergo five years of aging before explains Phil. Frank makes a blend called
release, including a whopping two years TSG. “We’re not trying to copy a Rioja
in either French or American barriques. blend, and other producers are having
Traditionally these wines would have a success with partners like touriga, shiraz
dusty or tobacco character, however, and even cabernet, so there are no rules.
these days, you are more likely to find In our TSG blend, tempranillo gives
some primary fruit still there. Crianza dark fruits and savouriness and grainy
Winestate Magazine
and Joven style wines are released with tannins, while shiraz gives some mid- @WinestateEd
less and sometimes no oak and are palate flesh and graciano gives spice
designed to be drunk young and fresh and lift. I would love to try co-fermenting
and are more popular. It is a significantly them, but they ripen too far apart.”
large viticultural area with a massive I’m torn between tempranillo as a single
66,000 hectares of plantings spread variety or a blend, and whilst there is
over the three zones of Alta, Alavesa an argument, and often I agree with the
and Oriental. The last zone was called saying, the whole is greater than the
Baja up until 2017 when the name was sum of its parts, tempranillo has enough
changed. In Spanish Baja means a drop character to fly solo.
or fall, denoting it is the lower of the three
regions. This faint reference upset some
producers. However, far from solving
the problem, the new name has sparked
more complaints! Tempranillo is planted
in around 88% of all vineyards with
garnacha, mazuelo and graciano making
up the rest. The habit of blending sub-
regions was entrenched up until 2019
when the local Consejo Regulador finally
allowed single vineyard wines (Viñedo
Singular) to be recognised on the label.
It makes me question why we don’t see
more tempranillo blends in Australia?
Master of Wine Phil Reedman thinks
that the grape works well enough on its

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 23


winetravel

WORDS ELISABETH KING

GOING FOR GOLD - EATING AND DRINKING WELL IN AUSTRALIA'S


NUMBER ONE TOURIST DESTINATION

WITH the Federal government's half- winning waterfront property that has more at home, The Roosevelt Lounge in
price air tickets up for grabs and the long been popular because of its multi- Broadbeach picked up the Best Small Bar
arrival of winter, few regions are as million-dollar fit-out and amazing views in Queensland gong in 2018. I'd come
alluring as Australia's number one over Marina Mirage at Main Beach. It here just for the signature cocktails such
holiday destination - the Gold Coast. could take a while to peruse the 18- as Black Forest Manhattan and Nitro Pop,
Over the past few years, the GC, as page wine list and cocktail listings. Join but the gin selection is a true drawcard.
locals call it, has become a hub of the sundowner crowd for a G&T pairing Craft gins from all over Australia, the UK,
sophisticated restaurants, regular bars guide, Aussie bottlings from ever y Sweden and Japan can be teamed with
and wine bars that are light years away state or a bottle of Les Terres Blanche Fever Tree Tonics. Confronted by the book-
from its family-friendly dining image. Rothschild from St Emilion if you are thick drinks list of whiskies and wines, you
The area's fast-expanding wine bar feeling flush. might find yourself popping in daily during
scene is the best place to start a week- your stay.
long journey of discovery. If natural If great food and wine are top of your
and small-batch producer labels are
The area's fast-expanding vacation must-haves, the Gold Coast
your druthers, head for Rosella's in sports a laundry list of options these
Burleigh Heads. The decor is a deep
wine bar scene is the days. Orzo at The Oracle resor t in
dive into Australiana with native animal Broadbeach hits the spot with its modern
best place to start a
prints and Aussie floral arrangements Italian menu, starting with housemade
and contemporary menu classics like focaccia and whipped ricotta through
week-long journey of
Tasmanian beef tartare and Balmain starters like smoked burrata, asparagus,
bug and king prawn cocktail. Available discovery. carasau bread and chili oil, ravioli stuffed
by the bottle or glass, a large selection with Moreton bay bugs with chicken
of natural, minimal intervention and beurre blanc and an exceptional cheese
biodynamic wines are on offer, in addition The wine list at Moo Moo The Wine Bar selection. The Italian-dominated wine list
to some top-class Aussie pet nats. + Grill in Broadbeach has been tapped reaches its pinnacle in the Vina Riserva
With an Italian oenoteca air, Mr P.P.s Deli several times in the Australian Wine List bottlings such as Bruno Rocca Rabaja
and Rooftop Bar in Southport specialises of the Year Awards. A hefty 23 pages Barbaresco 2016.
in gourmet pizzas, pastas, deli meats veer through expertly made cocktails, a Jimmy Wah's in Burleigh Heads is a
and cheese platters. The site of an old global and local beer call and a seriously knockout. Chef Jake Cooley set off on
post office and postmaster-general's good champagne and sparkling wine a five-week motorcycle tour of Vietnam
residence for over 100 years, the multi- lineup. Whites, reds and rosés from all and came back inspired to create one of
level building offers great views from the over the world go well with some of the the finest modern Vietnamese menus in
outdoor rooftop. Just the place to toast best steaks on the Gold Coast, including the country. Think wok tossed squid, ong
sunset with a glass of Australian, French, the signature spice rubbed 1kg wagyu choy, chilli and lime and half-chicken,
Italian or New Zealand wine. rump roast. morning glory, kaffir lime, tamarind and
Boaties will enjoy a tipple at Glass If sink-into leather Chesterfield lounges coconut cream. The wine list is equally
Dining and Lounge Bar, an award- and red velvet banquettes make you feel good. Major international names mix it

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with boutique wines and the staff are very With balmy temperatures even in winter,
helpful in offering suggestions for wine locals love their beer. The Lucky Squire
and food pairings. in Broadbeach, which opened last June,
Miss Mee at Nobby Beach took over is the Gold Coast's first James Squire
from Hellenika, long a standout of the brewery. One of the largest venues to
Gold Coast dining scene which shuttered open its doors in some time, the two
its doors in 2019. Southeast Asia is levels feature a microbrewery, bar and
also the main focus here in the big and restaurant that can accommodate 450
small sharing plates, including rice and people. Sharing is the guiding force
noodles, wagyu beef dumplings and behind the food menu, designed to go
pork hock deep-fried with master sauce. with the beers on tap, from mushroom
Wines vary from high-quality reasonable and truffle arancini to wood-fired whole
to the Ultra-Premium Back Vintage chicken.
Winestate Magazine
lineup, featuring 2008 Louis Roederer Bobs Beer, a recently opened brewery, @WinestateEd
Cristal and 2013 Le Ragnaie Fornace brewhouse and restaurant is just steps
Sangiovese. The great fit-out pumps up from the beach at Surfers Paradise. The
the buzzy atmosphere. name is an acronym of best of beers, not
Speaking of whisky, the Gold Coast the owner's name. There are core beers
delivers for malt and blend lovers, too. on tap beefed up with seasonal and
The Scottish Prince at Palm Beach has a limited-edition brews. A range of ANZ
bar lined with 150-plus whiskies. Named "guest beers" adds even more interest
after an ill-fated ship that ran aground for the suds lover.
nearby, it is not to be missed for its But for one of the most jaw-dropping
British-tinged menu, including haggis views of the area, make a beeline for
bon bons and Scotch fillet with buttery the Burleigh Pavilion in Burleigh Heads.
mashed potatoes. Known locally as the Pav, you can dine
The Whisky Lounge in Mudgeeraba on the terrace, eat at the Tropic with its
rightly bills itself as the place to come expertly cooked seafood menu or raise a
for a truly global whisky experience. A glass of Moet to the stunning panorama
highlight is the whisky flights featuring a before your eyes.
strong lineup from Talisker whiskies from
the Isle of Skye to strictly 18-year-olds
whiskies from some of Scotland's great
names. Over 130 whiskies from Australia,
Canada, Scotland, Ireland, the US and
Japan make a drive here more than worth
the effort.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 25


26 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021
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FROM
BRASH BEGINNINGS TO
Fine Wines
Brash Road Vineyards continue their soaring success story

MIKE ZEKULICH

ONE of Margaret River’s newer labels is as the new label is self-explanatory, “the are surrounded by Jarrah, Marri and State
rapidly building a quality name for itself. text deals with the vineyard; the wine and forest forming a huge natural wind break in
Called the Brash Road Vineyard taken from other significant label matters based on what times of severe wind.”
a road adjacent to their 50hectare property, others are telling us constantly. It appears Chris said textbook soil profiles are a
principals – Chris and Anne Carter –have our Brash Road Vineyard is considered to be perfect combination of gravel and loam over
won numerous awards including a host in the top 10-20% of vineyards in Margaret deep clay. “While we aren’t in Wilyabrup,
of four- and five-star entries in judging for River – a claim which is supported by our we have strong sections of Wilyabrup soils
Winestate in little more than a decade. grape grading where we are receiving the featuring throughout the property. These
The couple are both from non fine wine highest ‘A’ on our cabernet, shiraz, malbec gravel/loam soils result in grapes growing
backgrounds but that has done little to and chardonnay,” Chris said. in what is a virtual hydroponic environment.
impede their progress. In addition, the “This is due to the climate, which we all “Block selection has been a 20-year labour
quality wines they produce can be found benefit from, but our position is high on the of love (and money),” Chris elaborated.
under other high-profile labels which Naturalist Ridge creating a further level of “Over the two decades, we have planted,
have made a significant positive impact micro-climate that generates beautiful cool replanted and grafted to the stage where we
to their business bottom line. nights balancing the warm temperate days. now have each variety growing in its perfect
A subtle change to its bottle label has seen If there is a breeze, we will get it no matter property location.
it become the Brash Road Vineyard instead what the direction. “Shiraz is planted on a south facing slope,
of the previously branded Brash Vineyard. “The altitude of vineyard is what we at the bottom of that slope. A beautifully
Chris Carter says the reasoning was to believe is a key factor in the quality of fruit. protected environment from vine rows that
avoid the constant question ‘why Brash?’ While the vines are high on the ridge they were several metres wider than normal

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 27


has allowed extra sunlight to penetrate the received four stars but also won Gold at the
canopy because of the southern aspect. Margaret River Wine Show while the 2019
“The original chardonnay block was pulled Shiraz also received four-stars as a very
out in 2005 and replanted to Houghton young wine.
Clone Cabernet. This was because the Brash’s cabernet history has also been well
early flowering nature of chardonnay saw received since its first vintage in 2013.
the flowers exposed to early spring winds As well the Brash Sauvignon Blanc is now
and storms. The cabernet vines flower recognised in the top 5 SB’s coming out of WA
several weeks after that and the change and even from Australia. It has won trophies
of block has provided us with a cabernet at Royal Sydney, Royal Perth and WA Wine
super-block which produced the Brash Shows but was not shown this year because
Road Vineyard Cabernets. it was sold out.
“Chardonnay was replanted at a higher The cabernets and shiraz wines are both
altitude in a near-perfect amphitheatre of blessed with 16 months on new and used
jarrah and marri trees, providing all the French oak in their making and are totally
protection it needs. Merlot was grafted over to varietal from 100% single Brash Road
cabernet in recent years as we simply did not Vineyard. Keeping a sharp eye on these styles
get a good yield from merlot vines and there as they mature is winemaker Bruce Dukes.
is a very small market for merlot.” His comment: “The fruit delivered was so
Chris says professional input over the entire good it is merely nursed through a proven
life of the vineyard has been the responsibility process each year with minimal intervention”.
of highly respected viticulturist Andy Ferreira Chris concluded that Brash only makes 1250
acting as Brash’s viticulturist. It has been his cases a year representing 10% of what it
observations and advice that has driven them grows. Each year, they take fruit from the same
to become a premier Margaret River vineyard. identified vineyard rows, avoiding chopping
“Whether it be large changes such as change and changing to ensure their wines are truly a
of block sites through to minor changes that reflection of picking time and source.
saw us dropping flowers in 2015 to balance In short, the Brash Road Vineyard can be
a forecast reduced canopy – his input has summed up as a small boutique producer
been invaluable,” remarked Chris. creating super-premium wines at Margaret
River in very small quantities. The wines are
THE WINES the product of a very special site that has Previous pages: Reflection at sunset.
Above and opposite: Brash vineyard, Western Australia.
TWO leaders have been the 2018 Shiraz and been refined over the past 20 years to be now A selection of Brash Road Vineyard wines.
Top left and right: Native birds in the Brash property.
the cabernet of the same vintage – both five producing at its peak. They are wines for the
stars Winestate winners and top or equal ages that will reward any good cellar.
top in their category. The 2019 Chardonnay

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“The altitude of vineyard is what we
believe is a key factor in the quality
of fruit. While the vines are high
on the ridge they are surrounded
by Jarrah, Marri and State forest
forming a huge natural wind break
in times of severe wind.”

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 29


30 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021
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STELLAR STANDOUT IN A
MOUNTAIN OF WINE
Highland Heritage Estate continues
its stratospheric success

CHARLES GENT

ORANGE, the wine region located on a plateau 120 kilometres Rex, son to Carmelo’s son Leo, was sent off to South Australia to
west of the Blue Mountains and dominated by the 1500-metre study a Bachelor of Applied Science in Oenology at Roseworthy
peak of extinct volcano Mount Canobolas, is among Australia’s Agricultural College immediately after finishing school in 1978.
highest altitude winegrowing areas. The term “cool climate” “Roseworthy had its own winery and distillery and was rated as
is very literal here: it is not uncommon for the cellar doors of one of the great wine courses of the world, along with UC Davis,
Orange’s 20-odd wineries to display photos of their vineyards Stellenbosch and Bordeaux,” Rex says.
under a blanket of snow. Rex did his practical placements at Orlando in the Barossa
Rex D’Aquino of Highland Heritage Estate remembers winter and at Jim Barry’s in Clare. On graduation, he found himself
terms at the local primary school in the 1960s being interrupted part of the wave of young winemakers who were to play Cupid
by closures due to falls of up to a foot of snow. And while climate to the Australian public’s burgeoning love affair with table wine.
change has since rendered such extremes of cold weather less A number of other influential New South Wales winemakers,
frequent, savage frosts remain one of the major challenges including Philip Shaw, Mike DeGaris and John Hordern,
for the region’s grapegrowers: Highland Heritage’s vineyards graduated from Roseworthy at around the same time.
are equipped with sprinklers, not for irrigation, but to keep the Back in Orange, Rex initially followed Carmelo’s model, shipping
depredations of frost at bay. in grapes from areas such as Cowra to make riesling and muscat.
“It’s not unusual for us to get frosts in about nine out of 10 But in 1991, with Orange’s reputation as a producer of high-quality
years,” Rex says. “Last year, we had frosts up to mid-December, table wine beginning to gather momentum, the D’Aquino family
which is crazy.” bought the Highland Heritage Estate property, and began a
Rex D’Aquino’s grandfather, Carmelo, was a post-First World rapid expansion of its modest vineyards. The estate, which sits
War immigrant from Sicily who moved from Sydney to Orange in at around 980 metres above sea level, now boasts nearly 15
1946 to establish a liquor retail and distribution business. The hectares under vines, divided between the varieties of sauvignon
early trade, with its minimum two-gallon licence, was largely in blanc, riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, shiraz and merlot, with
beer and fortified wines, the favourite tipples of the time. Carmelo cabernet franc and prosecco as the latest entries.
also set up a winery, using grapes bought from nearby vineyards Asked to pick Highland Heritage Estate’s flagship wines –
at Nashdale and Canowindra to make his own wines from muscat it’s akin to asking a parent which is their favourite child – Rex
and table grapes. D’Aquino nominates the much-awarded 2019 Mt Canobolas

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 31


"Asked to pick Highland Heritage Orange Riesling (he also has high hopes for its successor) and
the 2017 release of the Patronas Orange Cuvee Brut, a sparkling
Estate’s flagship wines – it’s akin pinot chardonnay. Both wines have picked up five-star ratings in
Winestate reviews.
to asking a parent which is their Despite the uncertainties that currently beset Australian wine

favourite child." production, Rex says that Orange has, in recent years, “gone nuts”.
“There’s a lot of really good wine, and the next generation of very
talented young winemakers is coming through. Our wine reputation
is getting better and better – we keep kicking goals and winning
awards. It’s all small volume stuff – there’s no thousands of acres
here, and the actual GI of Orange is quite tight.
“I think Orange is going to have a long history. Even with global
warming adding a couple of degrees of heat, our wines are going
to be great.”
At 62, Rex D’Aquino is busier than ever, dividing his time between
the winery and the D’Aquino Group’s wholesale liquor business,
with its seven retail outlets.
Rex says that the continuing tariff standoff with China has had
little direct effect on Highland Heritage Estate, as they sold none of
their premium wine into the Chinese market. He says it is, however,
a timely reminder of the constant change in the wine industry and
the consequent need for adaptation.
“The world keeps changing, whether you like it or not,” Rex says.
“Going forward, I think it’s important to look after your local
business, because people come to Orange and the locals
recommend them where to go. You have to look after your
domestic business, your own backyard, too. You have to push
it and work it – it doesn’t happen by itself. You’ve got to be, as
I call it, on the tools all the time: talking to people, pushing the
brand, getting in people’s faces.
“Everyone’s making good wine – you’ve got to try and stand out
somehow.”

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May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 33
winestatepromotion

THE 2020
AUSTRIAN
WINE VINTAGE
A CHALLENGING,
YET REWARDING YEAR
2020 will be remembered as a growing season of opposites, in
which rain followed sun and cold followed warmth. Combined
with the specific features of the regions, this called for a great
deal of intuition and patience from winegrowers. And they have
been rewarded – we can expect some invigoratingly fresh
whites, finely balanced reds and some sweet rarities.

Despite the 2020 growing season varying significantly


between the individual winegrowing regions, fresh, aromatic,
lighter white wines with a vibrant structure are emerging this
year. In other words, a classic “Austrian” vintage. The picture
is a little more nuanced for red wines, as high physiological
grape ripeness in some red wine heartlands is raising hopes
for very high quality with moderate alcohol content.

34 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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EVER-CHANGING WEATHER CONDITIONS NIEDERÖSTERREICH & WIEN: A BROAD
After a dry winter that barely earned its name, some areas SPECTRUM
experienced a slight delay in budding. A very warm and sunny
In Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) and Wien (Vienna), very fresh
April did little to accelerate development as it was accompanied
and fruity wines are expected with a slightly lower alcohol content
in many places by extreme dryness that lasted for weeks. A few
and more pronounced acidity than in recent years.
frosty nights caused damage in inconvenient locations but overall,
The typical characteristics of the grape varieties are expressed
this was insignificant. May saw great amounts of rainfall, and June
well, both in the flagship Grüner Veltliner and in the Rieslings and
was also very damp and changeable. Flowering occurred at the
the Pinot family. It could be a little more difficult for bouquet wines
usual average time and was generally unproblematic, although
like Muskateller and Traminer to show off their full potential. Klassik
there was occasional coulure in some grape varieties.
wines and Gebietsweine (regional wines) should turn out to be
A good old-fashioned summer followed, characterised by
very pleasant as they combine bold freshness and clear fruitiness
alternating sunny and rainy periods, with neither long heatwaves
with invigorating, non-aggressive acidity. The performance of the
nor temperature spikes. In any case, the frequent precipitation
white Reserve wines is eagerly anticipated. Due to meticulous
led to strong plant growth and high disease pressure, so careful
selection in 2020, only small volumes of these could be produced.
pruning work and good aeration of the grape zone were important
Here, we can hope for Riedenweine (single-vineyard wines) and
to combat the spread of fungal diseases. By mid-August, the
premium wines with balance, precision, structure and stability for
vineyards were in very good shape. However, some regions then
longer storage.
saw localised hailstorms, which caused serious damage in certain
The key red winegrowing regions of Thermenregion and
areas of the Wachau, Kremstal and Traisental; some viticultural
Carnuntum are expecting fruity, somewhat lighter and elegant
towns in Burgenland and Steiermark were also affected.
red wines with all grape varieties and categories represented; the
September was also a month of contrasts. On the one hand, there
best wines could match the delicate fruitiness of the 2016 vintage.
were as many sunshine hours as in a summer month and equally
Alongside Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, Sankt Laurent and Pinot
high daytime temperatures; on the other hand, many places saw
Noir are especially promising.
prolonged heavy rain towards the end of the month with record
precipitation levels. Winemakers had quite a job on their hands to
keep their grapes healthy in the warm, damp weather. Relatively low
night-time temperatures had a positive effect on aroma formation
and acidity. The main harvest began in early September and mainly
continued in very good conditions until late October. Even outside
Above: Changing weather in Wagram ob der Traisen (Traisental).
the winegrowing regions affected by hail, meticulous selection and
Photo credit: AWMB / Marcus Wiesner.
the associated cost-intensive harvesting process was required. Left: View on the Kahlenbergerdorf on the border of Wien and Niederösterreich.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 35


BLESSED BURGENLAND?
According to numerous reports and initial tastings, Burgenland
could be one of the winners in the current vintage. On the one
hand, the heavy autumn rainfall did not reach the wine villages
on Lake Neusiedl at all and had precious little effect in central
and southern Burgenland. On the other hand, the region was able
to reap above-average benefits of early grape ripening caused
by the climatic conditions. As a result, the main harvest around
Lake Neusiedl was completed before the weather changed in the
second half of September. The only downside came in the form
of several localised hailstorms.
The 2020 white wines from all grape varieties are characterised
by a mature, harmonious flavour, which is enhanced by a zesty
acidity, making expectations of Leithaberg and similar wines high.
Expectations are also high for all Burgenland appellations with
regard to red wine quality. As is always the case in cooler years,
it was important to reduce the yield accordingly in 2020. In the
best cases, it should be possible to produce red wines of cool
elegance and soft fruitiness, which may be comparable with
those of 2016. Overall, we can expect well balanced Zweigelt and
Blaufränkisch of astounding maturity, while the French varieties
from suitable locations could also draw attention.
It is still a little early to make any predictions regarding dessert
wines. However, late yet noble sweet rarities like Ruster Ausbruch
DAC and Neusiedlersee DAC could be obtained, albeit in smaller
quantities. Occasional overnight frosts have even enabled the
pressing of Eiswein.

36 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
STYRIAN, THROUGH AND THROUGH SURPRISING BERGLAND
Steiermark’s lighter white Gebietsweine will undoubtedly display All-round satisfaction was expressed this year in Bergland, which
regional typicity. Wine connoisseurs can look forward to crisp, fresh is comprised of a variety of winegrowing enclaves.
Welschriesling, Muskatellers and Sauvignons that combine pure, Winegrowers from Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) are reporting
varietally typical fruitiness with zest. Just like the denser Ortsweine an extremely successful vintage, completely unimpaired by the
(villages wines) and Riedenweine (single-vineyard wines), these also vagaries of the weather. Accordingly, mature and intense wines
have those features that make them so distinct. full of juice and strength are expected.
In Steiermark too, the rainy low-pressure area in September was a Similarly pleasing news is also coming from Kärnten
turning point and caused interruptions to the harvest. Those who had (Carinthia), where an equally pleasant autumn followed abundant
the nerve to wait a while after the rain before resuming the harvest precipitation in spring and summer to ensure satisfying maturity
were rewarded with a wonderfully sunny October, which allowed and distinctive aromatics. With higher acidity, the quantity and
grapes to ripen to perfection. Of course, precise selection was then sugar gradation are lower than last year, but dynamic wines for
essential to bring in a healthy grape harvest, with the associated loss easy drinking are assured.
of volume. So, it was possible to harvest those very Riedenweine that In the Tyrolean and Vorarlberg vineyards in far-west Austria,
are responsible for the high renown of the Steiermark wine producers. prudent plant protection was more important than ever to ward
The Steiermark flagship Sauvignon Blanc should turn out to be off infestation by downy mildew (Peronospora) and powdery
especially attractive and characteristic as it naturally benefits from a mildew (Oidium). Thorough defoliation of the grape zone was
good supply of water. After the wait mentioned previously, the Pinot required to prevent Botrytis cinerea. The Alpine föhn winds that
family has also performed at a good level, and this is also true of the are typical here in autumn almost failed to materialise in 2020;
Rieslings in Sausal. In some cases, it may be a little more difficult for however, by mid to late October, the harvest of mature grapes of
the Muskateller, as the appearance of the spotted-wing drosophila above-average quality could be completed.
occasionally forced an undesirable early harvest. Overall, the
Steiermark whites could reach a profile similar to that achieved by the
2013 wines and the 2016 wines that were unfortunately only available
in smaller quantities. Above: The Aunberg in Tieschen in Vulkanland Steiermark.
Photo credit: AWMB / Marcus Wiesner.
The same is also true for Schilcher from Weststeiermark, which after Left middle: Vineyards near Feldkirch in Vorarlberg (Bergland).
several years characterised by high maturity has returned to featuring Photo credit: AWMB / Marcus Wiesner.
Left bottom: The vineyard chapel near Neckenmarkt in Mittelburgenland.
somewhat more typical freshness and zest, as well as a ligther body. Photo credit Robert Herbst.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 37


38 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021
Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
ZEK’S SWANSONG
WA Industry stalwart, Mike Zekulich, hangs up his Tastevin

BERNHARD SIMS

LONG-TIME award-winning West Australian wine writer Mike The first commercial wine produced in WA is acknowledged as
Zekulich has decided to retire after more than 40 years as being from the 1834 vintage at Olive Farm – then owned by botanist
Winestate’s regular WA contributor. Now aged 84, and still loving settler Thomas Waters.
the task, Mike however, now feels it is time to hang up the Tastevin It was presented at the annual general meeting of the Agricultural
and just enjoy the industry wherever he may be. Society where it was much lauded drawing the comment it was
The decision to take a step back and devote time to more hoped production of the wine would be increased such that bottles
leisurely pursuits was inspired by a recent trip with a small group could be placed on every table in the Colony.
of dedicated Perth wine lovers who wanted to re-visit key Swan Olive Farm is still operating in the Valley to this very day but in a
Valley producers after some years of often taking in more trendy more central location. Its wines are now made by the Yurisich family.
new WA South West areas. They also wanted to know how much Industry changes over the years have since covered all facets
if any their own tastes had changed over the years. There were of grape growing, dried fruit production, fresh table grapes for
six in the group including three well-known medicos and invited domestic and export markets and of course wine.
business enthusiasts keen to see how the Swan Valley – once the Gone are the low yielding currant vineyards that once flourished
heart of WA viticulture and winemaking – had relinquished the title from the river to the foothills of the Darling Ranges, victims of
to the high-flying Margaret River region. the loss of yields in poor sandy soils. Key European buyers then
Mike Zekulich was also invited along to include his views on the returned to supplies from Turkey and Greece that had been
long rich wine pioneering history of the Swan as well as his own decimated by World War II.
family’s dedicated commitment to important industry affairs. Exports of fresh table grapes packed in granulated cork
The group was led by leading WA dermatologist specialist and sent to Asian markets also provided WA grape growers with
wine lover Hannes Gebauer who concluded at the end of the 3/4- valuable income from the high-quality fresh fruit the Swan
day mid-week tour in which numerous top quality table wines and could so readily produce while new grape varieties boosted
some very fine fortifieds were presented. all production.
What a bonus with Swan Valley vineyards and wineries on Keen investors waiting to move into the pick of cool-climate grape
the very edge of Perth City. This meant smaller crowds at the growing production such as Margaret River and the Great Southern
tastings – easing concerns about the possibility of dreaded brought with them great enthusiasm and a solid commitment to
Covid-19 infections. wine quality.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 39


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Few then could have imagined the heights they would scale,
often being hailed as among the nation’s best.
The pioneers however, had set the platform, earning the respect
of those who were to follow.

"The decision to take a step back Later changes were based on the advent of new varieties like
chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, further enhancing wine

and devote time to more leisurely interest.


Said Hannes at the end of the visit: “We were stunned. It revealed

pursuits was inspired by a recent an underutilised treasure.”


These were the rewards the hard-working producers sought,
along with mortgages being paid off along with the higher
trip with a small group of dedicated education they so desperately wished for their children for they
had so little themselves.
Perth wine lovers…" The highlight of the last 50 years has been the dramatic surge
of industry expansion for all to see, exciting times for the State
and nation.
Younger generations of the Swan have joined the southern
push planting their own vines while regularly buying grapes at
vintage. As well, WA industry leaders have embraced their skills
based on Oenology studies from leading university sources in
the Eastern States.
Their knowledge and skills have helped pack their trophy cabinets
for all to see and reflect upon. Major contributions have come from
high scoring Margaret River producers, especially for cabernet and
chardonnay, but others have been quick to take up the challenge
with excellent shiraz coming from Frankland River and riesling
from the Great Southern.
Surprisingly, Hannes Gebauer had his first serious drink as a
two-year-old after his dummy had been dipped in Cognac!
After the family’s post World War II migration to Australia, Mr
Gebauer snr - a professional under 21 soccer player in his native
Poland, took up the sport in the Swan Valley, being paid in wine
as his club’s funds ran dry.
In his new world, Hannes delighted jazz lovers with his
trumpet-playing skills, while also playing A grade hockey in
WA. However, he was never far from a quality wine travelling
far and wide to sample the best, especially in Europe.

40 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
But he didn’t have to go far in this Swan Valley crew, to take winemaking doyen, Jack, who spent 51 consecutive vintages
in, with his impressed mates, the great fortifieds from Kosovich, at Houghton – travelled for years around the Swan and
Talijancich and Faber, never to be forgotten stars of the trip. elsewhere in WA, urging producers to give up bulk flagon
Numerous producer upgrades over the years include multi- production in favour of 750ml bottles of premium wine better
million-dollar facilities as good as any, taking in the latest suited to the industry’s future.
technology, new dining areas, micro-breweries, a jetty for boat Group members reflected on many aspects of their visit. Said
visitors, magnificent renovation of the historic Captain James one, (GP Phil Downing) “What I took away were stories; stories
Stirling homestead, creating as well, an important place for told by the winemakers themselves, the men and women on the
the display of excellent local art. label, not an employee of a corporation. Stories from families
Obviously over the years there have been many new and old arriving from overseas with nothing, no English, no money. Of
changes focussed on industry progress including: hand dug cellars before houses, stories of recreating a little bit
of the old country through wine. Stories of reaching everything
· The 1859 purchase of Houghton by Colonial Surgeon, Dr
from a life-long passion of geology, ocean floor, of alluvial soils
John Ferguson, who gave his energetic son C.W. Ferguson the
and caprock, stories of 100-year floods, stories of generational
challenge of expanding their small, mainly Swan bush location,
winemaking, stories of adaptation and change, all shared in a
to establish a base for a wine industry under the famous
foreground of honest and regional terroir.”
Houghton label. Its first vintage yielded just 25 gallons, yet
Then another: “These are stories that must live on. Whatever
the winery was to become one of Australia’s most significant.
the future may hold for the Swan Valley. Each time I pour a
· The discovery of gold in WA in the 1890s led to a fourfold glass of Faber, John Kosovich or Talijancich, I am not just
population explosion opening up a local wine market for the taking wine, I am remembering valley stories.”
first time. The tour included Oakover, Olive Farm, Upper Reach,
Riverbank, Sittella, Faber, Sandalford, Talijancich, Kosovich
· The first Croatians arrived in WA in March 1916 – three
and Mandoon.
families providing a major boost in grape growing and
The favourite wines for Dr Eric Rogers were the Upper Reach
winemaking skills leading to controversy with women and
Reserve Cabernet and the Faber Millard Shiraz. But the good
children working among the vines for the first time to make
doctor conceded: “There were a large number of potential
their small blocks pay.
candidates.
· World renowned scientist Dr John Gladstones identifies “What is clear is that the valley is filled with passionate and
Margaret River as an ideal location for the production of capable grape growers producing high quality and diverse
premium wine grape growing for the making of high-quality wines from the area so close to the city.”
table wine. So, on that note, raise your glass (hopefully filled with a
· The gradual spread of vine plantings to unusual places like fantastic WA drop) as we remember the good times and wish
Geraldton, Esperance, even Kalgoorlie and places in between. Mike all the best with many more glasses of great wine to
come!
· The crucial importance of the Mann family to better
the industry by passing on their vast experience to help
producers improve. Dorham Mann for example, son of

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 41


hong konggrapevine
LUCY JENKINS

EXCITINGLY for Hong Kongers, we can


greet the wet and humid season (everyone’s
favourite time of year) with the extension of
dine-in times at restaurants (to 10pm, from
6pm) and - gasp! - have dinner with three
other people (it was limited to groups of two
for nearly three months).
While looking askance at anyone who has
the misfortune to sneeze while accidentally
inhaling pepper, wearing masks when
not actually eating, and sanitising hands
like it’s going out of fashion looks set to
remain, at least these new restaurants offer
something to help guide us through the
start of typhoon season.
Man Wah at the Mandarin Oriental,
the genteel grandfather of Cantonese
fine dining is back. Though technically
not a new restaurant per se, it has had
a complete makeover, so it looks and
feels like a completely different space
– think dark azure tones with Chinese
embroidered art panels and delicate
Fish Broth and the Hakka-inspired cafe, Lady Nara has opened its rattan
brass embellishments, all done very
Braised Pork Belly with Taro. Man Wah doors to Hong Kong - its first outside
tastefully as this is the Mandarin.
at the Mandarin Oriental, 25/F, Mandarin Thailand. It’s Thai food but tones down
As for the food, the Michelin-starred
Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road with some Western touches, so think
kitchen, headed by Chef Wing-Keung
Central, Hong Kong, phone +852 2825 Lobster Tom Yum Bisque with Garlic
Wong, balances old favourites with
4003, www.mandarinoriental.com Toast. Lemongrass Roast Chicken, Soft
new creations, with a focus on often
While having a name that could denote Shell Crab & Wagyu Burger and Rigatoni
overlooked culinary gems and forgotten
somewhere that people might go to out of Red Vodka Crab. Just turn a blind eye to
delicacies. Highlights of the menu
desperation, The Last Resort is actually all the influencers posing at the light pink
include Deep-fried Matsutake Mushroom
the latest opening from chic restaurants terrazzo bar, rattan chairs and lashings
Pudding, Baked Lobster in Superior
group, Black Sheep. Perched on Peel of floral decor. Lady Nara, Shop 3303,
Street, the Canadian-inspired watering 3/F, Gateway Plaza, Harbour City, 3-27
hole delights with a wallet-friendly Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong,
menu of no-nonsense drinks (cheers phone +852 2153 3730, www.facebook.
to straightforward names like Whiskey com/ladynara.hk
Apple and Bourbon Coke as opposed
Top: Interior of Man Wah restaurant.
to something more esoteric). Left: Delicious dishes from Lady Nara restaurant.
Below right: The Last Resort restaurant.
Food-wise, expect juicy hot fried
chicken and golden-fried potato wedges
dipped in sour cream and sweet chili
sauce cour tesy of chef Jowett Yu
(Executive Chef of Ho Lee Fook and Le
Garçon Saigon). In a town beset with
bewildering menus at confusingly high
prices, a simple concept such as this is
very welcome. The Last Resort, 52b Peel
Street, Soho, Hong Kong, phone +852
2442 2440, www.thelastresort.com.hk
So, we’re back to the idea of curated
menus and ‘grammy decor, but Bangkok

42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
brisbanegrapevine
LIZZIE LOEL

watermelon relish and raspberries, queso Over at Paddington it's a second venue
fresco and salsa verde - they are so also for the owners of Ngon, a modern
packed with flavour, charriness from the Vietnamese bistro housed in a pretty,
plancha, piquancy from the marinades original shop on Given Terrace. The menu
that the sauces, as tempting as they are, is a compilation of typically fresh flavours of
are hardly necessary. The charcoal beef Vietnam divided into small and large plates.
with blueberry and coriander is equally Recently owner Tuan Nguyen and his
delicious and this one handles the fiery team launched Given Kitchen and Bar
Bhuta sauce nicely. up the road in another quaint shop front.
Raw yellowtail kingfish arrives in an earthy The long narrow room features a banquette
bowl amid a heady blend of coconut, onion running down the right-hand side with dark
& lime as well as a mix of both habanero wood tables simply adorned with ceramic
and merkin chilli. vases of various colours. The menu for
The sides are well worth indulging in - breakfast and lunch is strikingly different
BACK in the day, a trip along West End’s crunchy tostadas served with guacamole, to that of dinner and that is because there
Hardgrave Road offered up a variety of mole madre, eggplant, pico de gallo and are two different chefs at the helm day and
old-fashioned blocks of flats, houses with sauce roja are all delicious, especially when night. Chef Daniel Real injects funky fusion
grapevines and veg-laden front yards and served together. vibes into his morning creations - think
a sprinkling of second-hand bookstores The cocktail list leaves nothing to the bubble tea panna cotta with chocolate
and thrift shops. The landmark of the road tequila and mezcal lovers' imagination. It granola, karaage chicken benny with
was the Rialto Theatre, a lovely old corner begins with a not so classic margherita and sriracha hollandaise and sauteed kale or
structure built in the 1920’s. ends with a mezcal negroni with campari hangover fried rice with a pork sausage
A couple of traditional Vietnamese and grapefruit bitters. and a fried egg.
restaurants came along in the ‘60’s offering Brisbane has been lacking good Mexican At night the sophistication and finesse
rudimentary dining rooms and menus as and Mama Taco is well and truly filling ramp up under the direction of chef,
long as your arm were also popular. These that gap. Mama Taco, 4/59 Hardgrave Wilhelm Gee with dishes like whole
venues dabbled in various Asian cuisines Road, West End. No Phone. Visit www. squid, green chilli sauce and garlic salt,
as well as their own and were family run mamataco.com.au. wagyu rump with Vietnamese chimichurri,
often with three generations working There’s no such shortage of good Italian charcoal BBQ chicken with lime and chilli
together on any given day. these days however, but the same team at and a deliciously seared duck breast with
The good news is that the two main Mama Taco also runs Mario’s just a few red curry and fried shallots. Given Kitchen
players, Trang’s and Quan Thanh are doors down. and Bar, 257a Given Terrace Paddington.
still there. The menus are still vast and wide Simple decor with olive green velvet bar Phone (07) 2103 5534.
ranging, they’re still family-run and they still stools, a red feature wall and polished wood
offer the same value for money that they gabled ceiling, the pocket-sized venue
always did. oozes charm and an easy warmth.
The difference is the neighbours, and the The bar is stocked with a plethora of
neighbourhood, now some of the highest Italian and Australian wines bolstered by a
priced inner-city housing in Brisbane. A reserve list of big-end-of-town barolo’s and
few doors up from Trangs and part of the barbaresco’s - there’s also 50 Grappas and
theatre is Mama Taco, a highly anticipated 50 Ameros to choose from as you sample
Mexican bolthole, delivered by the creators the experimental dishes chef Raffaele
of Holloway and Luigi’s (both now Percichetti creates on a nightly basis.
defunct), also in West End. Several dishes have already become firm
Three colourful bottles of chilli sauce are favourites and regulars are dictating that
deposited on our polished wood banquette they cannot be removed from the menu.
table along with the offer of still or sparkling And who would remove lobster lasagna,
water. “Think of them as stop lights,” says funghi calzone fritto, and scampi crudo with
our waiter. “The green (Merkin chilli) is go buffalo milk stracciatella dusted with freeze
- not too spicy, you can enjoy plenty of it. dried raspberry from the menu?
The orange (Bhuta) is a little spicier and the There’s a second room that can be hired
red (habaneros) speaks for itself!” for functions and a couple of black velvet
All three are fresh and vibrant and packed armchairs that sit on the footpath, the
with heat and flavour, but when the tacos perfect spot for an aperitivo after the rigours
arrive - the first one is a king prawn with of the day. Top left: Tequila from Mama Taco.
Above right: The Beef taco at Mama Taco.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 43


adelaidegrapevine
NIGEL HOPKINS

YORKSHIRE-BORN chef Toby Gush grew


up with a deep understanding of fish and
chips, especially fish, but when he moved
to Australia, he spent nearly two decades
creating top quality Italian dishes for
esteemed Adelaide restaurant Chianti.
Then the disruption caused by the
COVID virus provided an opportunity to best fish and chips. Which he has done, Beach. Open for breakfast, lunch and
move on to new opportunities and Gush, based on crisply battered, sustainably dinner daily. Phone (08) 8353 8503.
with his sous chef Gordon Lee, took on caught ocean jacket fish from Greenly First there was Spaghetti Crab, then
the stoves at Oceanique, a relatively Island off Eyre Peninsula. These firm- Spaghetti Meatballs and now Spaghetti
new restaurant based at the Adelaide fleshed white fish, a larger, deeper ocean Island, all part of the extended family
Sailing Club overlooking the broad sands version of the common leatherjacket, are of restaurants that includes the famed
of West Beach. perfect in this context. Ruby Red Flamingo, Tony Tomatoes and
Until Sam Dunning, his sister Lucy and To these he adds a terrific house-made Coccobello.
their extended families – in which resides (of course) tartare, a bundle of super crisp This is family-style Italian home cooking but
a long history in hospitality – took over this chips and a salad bowl that varies from day done professionally under the experienced
large restaurant, terrace and function space to day but is far more interesting than most eye of chef and partner Enzo Verdino
two years ago, it was largely deserted and of its kind. All up, a terrific plate. who, with co-partner Lauro Siliquini, bring
unloved. Not anymore. It’s potential for great There’s much more than this on the together more than 50 years’ experience in
value dining, for families, holidaymakers menu, which includes basics such as providing great value food, wine and fun.
and locals alike, has been unleashed – Waygu steaks, fried free-range chicken The fun bit is important, too, because
increasingly driven by chef Gush’s skills in and burgers, but Gush has built a network Spaghetti Island, in the tradition of its
the kitchen. of local suppliers who provide him with predecessors, is colourful and slightly crazy
Freed from his Italian straitjacket, however a constantly changing range of whole with yellow walls, black floors and tables,
attractive that was, he was able to pursue fish and seafood, which is his main love. cut-out palm trees on the walls and lots of
a long-standing goal: to create Adelaide’s There’s a short but well curated wine list, hanging plants.
and a fabulous view at sunset. What more This time there are a dozen spaghetti
could you want? Oceanique, 9 Barcoo dishes from which to choose, just as the wine
Road, West Beach. Open for breakfast list has been ever so slightly expanded –
Saturday-Sunday, lunch Wednesday- there are now four reds and four whites, four
Sunday, dinner Wednesday-Saturday. cocktails and two beers on tap - but again
Phone (08) 8294 3232. the object is to minimise customer indecision
While on the subject of fish and chips, and get them happily munching away on
there’s another great plate to be had in dishes such as Spice Tour, a putanesca-
slightly less salubrious surroundings – in style dish with olives, fried capers and chilli,
fact a trip back to the 60s and 70s – at the Basil Bay – with basil pesto, green beans
West Beach Surf Club Cafe, which also and potato, or a spaghetti marinara named
enjoys fabulous seaside views from its Summer Love, with squid and peas in a
balcony and open terrace. crab bisque. Not surprisingly, there is also
It’s slightly daggy and old-fashioned in the original favourite Spaghetti Crab, with
everything except the food and service, blue swimmer crab and cherry tomatoes.
both of which are terrific. And although the No starters or desserts were offered – this
long menu covers everything from focaccia is just spaghetti and more spaghetti, but
with chips to schnitzels and curry, the go-to- there are plenty of places within a short walk
dish is the beer-battered garfish with chips on Gouger Street if you need either of those.
and coleslaw. Servings are generous, the waiters are
It’s great value, the view is as good as attentive and friendly and there are gluten
it gets, the open terrace is dog friendly and carb-free options available. Spaghetti
(water bowls under the tables) and best Island, 138 Gouger Street, Adelaide. Open
to get in fast because the place is about for dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Phone 0422
to be renovated and that old-style charm 307 303.
will be lost. West Beach Surf Club, cnr Top right: Fish and chips from West Beach Surf
Seaview and West Beach roads, West Lifesaving Club.
Bottom left: Spaghetti from Spaghetti Island.

44 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
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sydneygrapevine
ELISABETH KING

ONE of the most noticeable things about


going to the CBD when office workers were
mainly working from home was that the few
people on the streets had almost exclusively
adopted casual clothing. Restaurants were
peopled with men in shorts or chinos with
shirts with hardly a suit in sight. I mention breadcrumbs. But our druthers were for the most people are squeamish about innards.
this because don't even think of opting for agnello - an artistic plate of perfectly cooked But Pepperell has made lamb's brains a star
a suburban cafe-style dress code at Seta lamb rump, red cabbage, beetroot, capers at Bistro 916 - crumbed, fried and served with
Sydney. Not because the management and anchovy - whose exquisite appearance smoked eel mayo.
wouldn't let you in, but because you would was matched by its taste. The duck breast Then there's the boudin noir, blood sausage
be squirming in your seat amidst the multi- with turnip, chicory and black cardamom was wrapped in flaky brik pastry, the pork rillettes
million-dollar movie set surroundings. another star-rated choice. and chicken liver parfait. The Plats Principaux
In 2017, leading restaurateur, Tonci Farac For those with bigger appetites, share plates is a five-strong stellar lineup centred on
(ex-Wildfire), took over The Athenian include Bistecca - a 1.2 kilo slab of Brooklyn steak frites - the number one dish in France
restaurant, which filled the ground floor of Valley beef mbs 3+ t-bone - and Kobe wagyu - but much improved with a Rangers Valley
a grand heritage building in Barrack Street. with horseradish, dijon mustard, rosemary jus entrecote and partnered with pepper sauce
The transformation has been jaw-dropping. and watercress salad. Another dish that had and perfectly cooked chips. Duck frites, a
Seta, the Italian word for silk, has been given plenty of takers was the soqquadro pasta with vegetarian mushroom frites, lobster frites and
a world-class renovation, courtesy of Michael cuttlefish, cuttlefish ink, lemon and elderflower. fish of the day round out the simple but really
McCann of Dreamtime Australia Design (Mr Desserts are contemporary takes on Italian good selection.
Wong and Felix). The palazzo-style interior classics from the Seta tiramisu through Tyson has curated a 200 bottling France-
is a vision of ornate columns, marble floors, caramel millefeuille and monte bianco. centric winelist from growers' champagnes
polished timber and an open kitchen that Bu, oh the wines. Head sommelier Filippo through burgundies and chablis. You can wax
looks straight out of the Netflix series, Chef's L'Episcopo (ex-Uccello and Mr Wong) has nostalgic with chocolate mousse for dessert,
Table, which focuses on the world's leading orchestrated a 500-strong wine list, of which but I recommend the Quarts de Chaume-
restaurateurs. 80 per cent are Italian bottlings. The suave based creme caramel. Bistro 916, 22 Challis
For all its grandeur and the imposing exterior, connoisseur has also put together a selection Avenue, Potts Point; bistro916.com.
built as Australia's first savings bank in 1849, of six wines exclusive to Seta, partnering with CHI means energy in Mandarin and you can
you feel immediately comfortable in the 600 Sergio Carlei, owner of the biodynamic Carlei certainly feel the force when you step into the
square metre space. Apart from the main Vineyards in Victoria. Lotus Dining Group's latest restaurant of the
dining room, Seta is split into several areas The staff are all suited and booted and as same name at Barangaroo. The lively space
from the chef's table through an Italian crudo welcoming as they are professional-looking. was designed by noted architects and interior
bar (an Australian first) and Venetian-style There's no use of the word guys when designers, Luchetti Krelle, and there's a rich
cocktail bar. addressing customers, but there is no stiff vibe from the abundance of gold and red and
Seta's menu is under the guiding influence formality, either. I popped in the following week white lanterns. Head chef Chris Cheng takes
of Matteo Vigotti, a former Bocuse d'Or with a business colleague for a Negroni. That's his cue from Chinese street food and also
award winner, and owner of the Novecento how compelling this exceptional new addition works native ingredients such as saltbush and
restaurant in Meina, Italy, which received a to the CBD is - for drinks or dining in style. Seta Davidson's plum into the mix.
Michelin star in 2009. Vigotti has remained in Sydney, 11 Barrack Street, Sydney; phone A lineup of lucky Maneki Neko cats adds
Italy and the head chef translating his creative (02) 9262 2624. a touch of cuteness to the slick premises
flair is Giovanni Astolfoni, whose resume I became addicted to Hubert, the downtown with harbour views, whether you drop by for
includes some of the world's leading five-star Sydney restaurant that re-ignited the city's a glass of wine, Chinese-inspired cocktail
hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants. passion for French food with fusion touches or Tsingtao beer. The menu is divided into
The a la carte menu blends top class such as kimchi gratin and escargot XO. I seven parts, including snacks, dim sum,
Australian produce with Venetian inspiration also became an habitue of Alberto's Lounge, skewers from the grill, noodles and rice, mains
and exacting cooking techniques. It invites the Italian bolthole near Central that elevated and desserts. We left feeling as full as the
you to plan your own culinary journey and trippa alla fiorentina to must-order status. The proverbial boot after jade prawn dumplings
we enthusiastically took up the challenge. common denominator of the two gourmet and king brown mushroom rolls to start,
We started with two primi - riso carnaroli outposts is Daniel Pepperell. followed by duck breast with Davidson's
acquerello tenuto colombara, a fabulous The talented chef has teamed with sommelier plum, caramel and charred lettuce and lamb
risotto incorporating scallops, bone marrow, Andy Tyson and chef Michael Clint (ex- shoulder with Chinese tabouli. But if you have
crispy chicken skin and celery essence - and Rockpool Group) to open Bistro 916 in Potts room, squeeze in the yuzu cheesecake with
a light-as gnocchi beautifully paired with blue Point, where Merivale's year-long Lotus pop- pomelo, blood orange sorbet and salted
swimmer crab, chilli, garlic and tarragon. up pulled in foodlovers. The decor is based plum meringue. CHI by Lotus, Shop 2/100
The five mains veered strongly towards on the fantasy version of a Parisian bistro with Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo; phone (02)
seafood such as pink snapper with capsicum waiters garbed in white coats. You don't often 8318 8605.
coulis, spinach, taggiasca olives and basil see brains on a menu in Australia because Top left & right: Dishes from Seta restaurant. Photo credit
Esteban La Tessa.

46 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
HOW WE JUDGE
WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM

Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind:
to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers.
In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is
notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and
various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings.

A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded
Wines are invited from any producer, final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardless
provided that they meet the criteria a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions are
of the class being judged. The class Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published according
may be a regional, style or new release is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising
tasting and generally the wines must be is taken or not.
available for consumers to purchase, The biggest judging system
although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more The judges
wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges.
any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and
Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence
Winestate carries out the judging Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with
using Australian capital city wine show show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a
procedures; the wines are not known three-person panel for each flight will
to the judges. The three judges taste Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical
the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expertise and often a marketing/retail
without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which expert who knows consumer tastes.
this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, Often one or more of the judges are
scores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ masters of wine with vast international
re-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience, and most judges have
agreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade experience at major Australian wine
the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered shows. We are also aware of expertise.
is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce If we are judging a region, for example,
above and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, we will have a winemaker judge from
is 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; that region because that person knows
wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent the local style. We balance that with
drinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine a judge from outside the region and
not gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind generally someone with broad and
wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice to mature experience.

HOW WE COMPARE

International 20
Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal 100 Point System
Point System
★★★★★ Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 97 - 100
★★★★1/2 Excellent High Silver 18 - 18.4 95 - 96
★★★★ Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 93 - 94
★★★1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 91 - 92
★★★ Good Bronze 15.5 - 16.4 89 - 90

Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating
system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 47


W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE
Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.

2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000 S


AUSTRALIAN 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600
WINES 2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 S
2003 $200 GIACONDA 1986 $330 1969 $560 Stonewell Shiraz
2004 $350 Chardonnay 1987 $250 S 1970 $400 1990 $90
BASS PHILLIP
2005 $230 1990 $110 1988 $330 S 1971 $720 1991 $70
Premium Pinot Noir MOSS WOOD
2006 $250 1991 $60 1989 $280 S 1972 $400 1992 $60
1990 $75 Cab Sauv
2007 Not Released 1992 $85 1990 $460 1973 $450 S 1993 $65
1991 $90 1990 $130
2008 Not Released 1993 $90 1991 $400 1974 $480 S 1994 $55
1992 $95 1991 $150
2009 Not Released 1994 $100 1992 $350 S 1975 $460 S 1995 $55
1993 $80 1992 $120
2010 $200 1995 $85 1993 $300 S 1976 $850 S 1996 $70
1994 $110 1993 $100
2011 Not Released 1996 $140 1994 $360 S 1977 $450 S 1997 $55
1995 $80 1994 $100
2012 $210 1997 $95 1995 $320 S 1978 $380 T 1998 $85 S
1996 $110 1995 $130
1998 $110 T 1996 $480 1979 $400 1999 $75
1997 $140 1996 $120
CLONAKILLA 1999 $120 1997 $300 T 1980 $380 S 2000 $70
1998 $140 1997 $100
Shiraz Viognier 2000 $110 1998 $420 1981 $400 2001 $65
1999 $120 1998 $130 T
1990 $65 2001 $110 1999 $380 1982 $380 2002 $70
2000 $120 1999 $130
1993 $65 2002 $160 2001 $380 S 1983 $480 S 2003 $55
2001 $160 2000 $130 S
1994 $85 2004 $190 2002 $420 1984 $350 2004 $85
2002 $145 2001 $130
1995 $65 2005 $120 2004 $380 1985 $380 2005 $60
2003 $110 2002 $120 S
1996 $100 2006 $110 T 2005 $390 S 1986 $520 2006 $60
2004 $140 2003 $90
1997 $130 2007 $120 S 2006 $180 T 1987 $350 2007 $55
2005 $80 2004 $100
1998 $150 2008 $130 T 2007 Not Released 1988 $380 S 2008 $60
2007 $130 2005 $100
1999 $55 2009 Not Released 2008 $540 1989 $360
2008 $85 2006 $70 S
2000 $90 2010 $130 1990 $540
2009 $85 2007 $95 S
2001 $130 2011 $130 1991 $460
2010 $90 2008 $90
2002 $130 2012 $130 1992 $380 S
2011 $100 2009 $85
2003 $100 T 1993 $380 S
2004 $120 2010 $80 S 1994 $380
BINDI 2005 $110 2011 $90 1995 $370 Basket Press
Block 5 Pinot Noir 2006 $120 S 1996 $500 Shiraz
Armagh Shiraz
1997 $80 2007 $190 S MOUNT MARY 1997 $380 S 1990 $150
1990 $200
1998 $95 2008 $90 Quintet 1998 $580 1991 $140
Meshach 1991 $120 T
1999 Not Released 2009 $95 T 1990 $150 1999 $400 1992 $95
1990 $100 1992 $140 S
2000 $150 2010 $90 T 1991 $120 2000 $420 1993 $110 S
1991 $85 1993 $110
2001 $120 2011 $75 1992 $110 2001 $380 1994 $95 S
1992 $80 1994 $130
2002 $110 2012 $70 1993 $95 2002 $450 1995 $100 S
1993 $70 1995 $130
2003 $85 1994 $110 2003 $420 1996 $180 S
1994 $90 1996 $190 S
2004 $110 1995 $100 2004 $460 1997 $90 T
1995 $70 1997 $140 T
2005 $140 1996 $120 2005 $430 1998 $190
1996 $90 1998 $250 S
2006 $100 1997 $120 2006 $520 1999 $110
1997 Not Released 1999 $180 S
2007 $120 1998 $160 2007 $420 2000 $90
1998 $110 2000 $120
2008 $120 1999 $130 2008 $620 2001 $95
1999 $90 2001 $140
2009 $90 2000 $120 2002 $120
Cabernet Merlot 2000 $70 2002 $200
2010 $95 2001 $110 2003 $100
1999 $95 2001 $110 2004 $160 S
2011 $85 2002 $130 2004 $110 S
2000 $65 2002 $95 2005 $120
2012 $95 2003 $110 2005 $110 S
2001 $110 T 2003 $60 2006 $160
2007 $95 2004 $140 2006 $110
2002 $90 2004 $70
BROKENWOOD 2008 $160 2005 $120 2007 $85 T
2003 $90 2005 $65 Bin 707
Graveyard Shiraz 2006 $120 2008 $85 T
2004 $110 S 2006 $65 1990 $250 S
1990 $90 2007 $90 2009 $85 S
2005 $85 2007 Not Released 1991 $250 S
1991 $110 2008 $95 2010 $100 S
2006 $70 2008 $85 1992 $210 S
1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released
1993 $80 1993 $220 S THREE RIVERS/
2008 $95 S 2010 $85
1994 $80 GREENOCK CREEK 1994 $220 S Chris Ringland
2009 $95 S 2011 $120
1995 $85 S Roennfeldt Rd 1995 Not Released Wines Shiraz
2010 $100 S 1996 $230
1996 $95 Shiraz Chardonnay 1990 $520
2011 $75 1997 $190
1997 $85 1995 $280 Art Series 1991 $690
1998 $140 S 1996 $260 1998 $260 1992 $600
1990 $60
1999 $90 ELDERTON 1997 $160 1999 $200 1993 $700
1991 $60
2000 $140 S Command Shiraz 1998 $350 2000 Not Released 1994 $650
1992 $70
2001 $85 S 1990 $90 T 1999 $200 S Bin 95 Grange 2001 $210 S 1995 $450
1993 $65
2002 $75 1991 Not Released 2000 $220 1951 $46,000 2002 $220 S 1996 $830
1994 $85
2003 $80 1992 $100 2001 $250 1952 $17,000 2003 Not Released 1997 Not Released
1995 $100
2004 $85 S 1993 $65 2002 $320 S 1953 $14,000 2004 $200 1998 $850
1996 $65
2005 $85 1994 $85 S 2003 $210 1954 $11,000 S 2005 $230 S 1999 $600
1997 $90
2006 $110 1995 $75 2004 $210 1955 $4,000 2006 $220 S 2000 $450
1998 $70
2007 $90 1996 $95 2005 $230 1956 $14,000 2007 $200 S 2001 $800
1999 $75
2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2006 $260 1957 $12,000 2008 $210 S 2002 $800
2000 $75
2009 $85 1998 $95 1958 $4,100 2009 $200 S 2003 $500
2001 $80
1999 $70 1959 $2,000 2010 $280
2002 $80 S
2000 $65 2003 $80 1960 $1,500
CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 1961 $1,600 Bin 60A
Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90
2002 $85 1962 $1,600 1962 $4,000
1994 $200 2005 $75
2003 $65 1963 $1,200 S 2004 $550 S
1995 $200 2006 $70
2004 $75 S Hill of Grace 1964 $1,200 S 2006 $400
1996 $250 T 2007 $85
2005 $65 1980 $280 S 2008 $70 1965 $600 S
1997 $200 2006 $70 1981 $220 2009 $75
1998 $260 2007 $65 S 1982 $250 S 2010 $70
1999 $260

48 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM
Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions

2002 $2,000
2003 Not Released
2004 $2,000
E. Guigal La Turque
2005 $5,700
Hermitage
Shiraz 2006 $2,100
1990 $800
1990 $150 2007 $3,200 S
1991 $850 S
1991 $130 2008 $3,000
1992 $270
1992 $80
Louis Roederer 1993 $240 Visit our website and keep
1993 $90 Chateau
Cristal 1994 $300
1994 $120 d’Yquem Sauternes up to date with all our latest
1990 $550 1995 $500
1995 $110 S 1990 $800
1996 $260
1996 $160 1993 $220 1991 $450
1997 $450 S
wine info, news, competitions,
1997 $85 T 1994 $340 1993 $340
1998 $160 S 1995 $300 1994 $360
1998 $700 tastings and events.
1996 $440 1999 $850 S
1999 $100 1995 $500 T
2000 $80 S 1997 $450 1996 $540
2000 $420 Become a subscriber to enter
1999 $340 2001 $520
2001 $100 1997 $490
2002 $450 into our exciting regular
2002 $150 2000 $340 1998 $400
2002 $300 2003 $850 competitions.
2003 $100 1999 $520
2004 $240 2004 $560
2004 $120 2000 $600
2005 $600
2005 $130 2001 $900
Chateau Mouton 2006 $750
2006 $130 2002 $500
2008 $120 S Rothschild 2003 $600
Gaja Barbaresco
Follow us and keep up to
2009 $130 1990 $650 S 2004 $500
2010 $140 S 1991 $550 2005 $650
1990 $330 date with all our latest
1991 $220
2011 $110 1992 $230 2008 $600
1992 Not Released wine info, tastings and
1993 $550 T
1994 $340 Domaine
1993 $210 events on facebook, twitter
1995 $520 1994 $260
1996 $800 S
de la Romanee
1995 $210 and instagram.
Conti La Tache
1997 $280 1996 $300
1990 $7,400
Para Liqueur 1998 $420 1997 $380 T
1991 $1,900
1878 $2,200 S 1999 $750 S 1998 $300
1992 $1,250
1879 $2,500 S 2000 $1,150 1993 $2,200
1999 $300 S Winestate Magazine
1880 $1,800 S 2001 $450 2000 $250 T
1881 $1,800 S 2002 $500
1994 $1,600
2001 $250 @WinestateEd
1995 $3,500 S
1882 $1,800 S 2003 $600 2002 Not Released
1996 $3,100 S
1887 $1,200 S 2004 $850 S 2003 Not Released
1997 $1,900
1893 $1,200 S 2005 $1,200 2004 $310
1998 $2,200
1899 $1,200 S 2006 $950 S 2005 Not Released
1999 $5,000
1901 $700 S 2008 Not Released 2007 $240
2000 $1,500
1908 $600 S 2009 $2,000 2001 $2,000
1910 $500 S Tenuta
2002 $3,800 S
1922 $350 Chateau Latour Dell’Ornellaia
2003 $2,800
1925 $600 1990 $1,250 Ornellaia
2004 $2,500
1927 $290 1991 $600 1991 $320
2005 $5,500 S
1930 $140 1992 $350 1992 $105
2006 $1,700
1933 $140 S 1993 $440 1993 $125
2007 $1,200
1939 $90 S 1994 $460 1994 $130
2008 $2,400
1944 $80 S 1995 $1,200 S 1995 $130
2009 $5,000
1947 $75 S 1996 $1,400 S 1996 $180
1997 $650 S 1997 $350 S
Domaine Armand
1998 $350 S
IMPORTED 1998 $520 Rousseau
1999 $600 1999 $200
WINES Chambertin
2000 $450 S
2000 $1,600 Clos de Beze
2001 $700 2001 $260
1990 $2,500 S
2002 $600 2002 $280
1991 $200
2003 $1,700 2003 $150
1992 $220
2004 $600 2004 $280 S
1993 $700 S
2005 $1,300 2005 $200
Moet et Chandon 1994 $500
2006 $1,100 2006 $220 S
Cuvee Dom 1995 $560
2007 $750 2007 $220
Perignon 1996 $650
2008 $1,100 2008 $150
1980 $180 T 1997 $280
2009 $190
1982 $280 S 1998 $400
1983 $190 S Chateau Petrus 1999 $800
1990 $5,500 Vega Sicilia Unico
1985 $200 2000 $320
1991 Not Released Gran Reserva
1988 $260 2001 $700 S
1992 $1,300 1990 $560
1990 $320 T 2002 $680
1993 $1,000 1991 $420
1992 $240 2003 $600
1994 $2,800 1994 $550
1993 $260 2004 $440
1995 $4,000 S 1995 $420
1995 $220 2005 $1,200 S
1996 $2,400 1996 $360
1996 $370 S 2006 $600
1997 $1,000 1998 $420
1998 $260 2007 Not Released
1998 $4,800 S 1999 $550 S
1999 $190 2009 $1,100
1999 $1,250 2000 $360
2000 $190 S 2010 $1,100
2000 $6,000 2002 $420
2002 $200 2003 $294
2003 $190 2001 $4,500 S
2004 $170 www.winestate.com.au
May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 49
travelbriefs
WINSOR DOBBIN

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

hotel is part of the Elizabeth Quay precinct.


The 229-room hotel spans 18 floors, and
includes meeting and event spaces, a
fitness centre and an outdoor infinity pool
with views over the Swan River.
The food and beverage offerings include
NEW STAR CHEF FOR THE The new menu is available now in the Other Reel Kitchen – with an open kitchen
PULLMAN Side of the Moon for resort guests, visitors to concept showcasing fresh, seasonal local
the region and south west locals. produce and seafood; Oar Bistro, a deli and
EXPERIENCED European chef Kiren The Other Side of the Moon is open bakery located on the boardwalk; and 18
Mainwaring has been appointed executive daily for breakfast and all-day dining Knots Rooftop bar.
chef for five-star Margaret River hotel property from noon until late seven days a week. Located on the 18th floor, the rooftop
Pullman Bunker Bay Resort. Outside guests are welcome to dine in the venue offers breathtaking and uninterrupted
Originally from Wales, he trained at restaurant with bookings recommended. See 360-views of the Swan River and Perth city.
Wolfscastle Country Hotel and Spa in pullmanbunkerbayresort.com.au. The artwork on the side of the building has
Pembrokeshire before working at three-star
been designed and installed by Fremantle-
Michelin seafood restaurant Coutanceau in
the French coastal town of La Rochelle. He
SEASHELLS HOTEL ON THE based artist Tom Mùller – and reflects the
SEASHORE rhythm and waves of the Swan River.
operated Two Friends restaurant in the Swan
Valley and Co-Op Dining in East Perth before Albany's iconic Middleton Beach will be the
moving to Margaret River in January this year. site of a landmark new hotel with a buyer SANDALFORD OFFERS NEW
In addition to heading up the kitchens confirmed for the ocean-front site, and SICILIAN EATS
at Pullman Bunker Bay Resort he also Seashells Hospitality Group confirmed as
SANDALFORD Wines, one of the founding
creates meals for the Other Side of the the operator. The new four-star plus hotel -
wineries in Perth's Swan Valley region –
Moon Restaurant. He launched a new Seashells Albany - will be the centrepiece of
located less than 30 minutes' drive from
menu in March. the Middleton Beach Activity Centre, offering
the CBD – has recently opened a new bar
“The direction of the new menu is to source 80 to 100 rooms with a choice of one and
and restaurant.
and highlight the amazing produce we have two-bedroom suites.
Featuring an open kitchen and a wood-fired
in the south west,” he said. “I have drawn on The hotel will also see the creation of
Sicilian pizza oven, the new Sandalford Bar
my experience and designed dishes that let beachfront food and beverage facilities for
and Restaurant is open for lunch, Monday
the produce speak for itself.” both locals and visitors. Construction will
to Sunday from 11:30am, and for drinks and
The range of local produce features Leeuwin start mid-year.
dinner on Friday to Sunday evenings until late.
Coast oysters, Manjimup cauliflower, Margaret The coastal city of Albany in the Great
In addition, a wide selection of wine from
River venison, Capel region marron and Southern region is a five-hour drive from Perth,
Sandalford's Swan Valley and Margaret River
Angus beef from the south west. or one hour and 15 minutes on a direct flight.
portfolios is available, alongside a selection
Mainwaring joins a team that includes
of cocktails, spirits, beer and cider.
French-trained pastry chef Romain Lassiaille,
NEW HILTON FOR WA CEO Grant Brinklow said the total spent on
who creates the resort's famous desserts.
DOUBLETREE by Hilton Perth Waterfront the enhancements, which were completed
“I am very proud to be working in an
is one of the newest hotels in Western during the property’s Covid-19 closure, was
amazing venue with a strong team and look
Australia. Offering spectacular views over in excess of $3.5 million. Chef Alan Spagnolo
forward to promoting an incredible region,”
the Swan River and Perth city skyline, the heads the kitchen team.
said Mainwaring.

50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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travelbriefs

OCEAN RETREATS ON THE See www.privateproperties.com.au/ E N JOY W I N E W H I L E


MENU collections/beach-lovers/ and also check APPRECIATING ART
out Farm Break and Bunkers Beach House
OCEAN views can be an added bonus for in Bunker Bay, Picquet and Jahangir in Eagle THE 2021 Margaret River Region Open
anyone visiting the south coast of Western Bay, Number 10 in Dunsborough, Bluebelle Studios festival is set to take place from
Australia. Private Properties offers a choice and Percy Street in Gracetown and Blue Vista September 11-26 in 2021.
of three coastal holiday homes now available in Yallingup. The event allows visitors and ar t
to book from Dunsborough to Margaret River. enthusiasts to have the rare chance to
Surf’s Up is a hilltop retreat on Yallingup visit private art studios in the region and
L OT S O N O F F E R F R O M
Hill. Perth surf and beach lovers have been meet established and emerging artists
FREYO TO PERTH
making the pilgrimage to Yallingup for more for a unique behind-the-scenes creative
than 50 years and this four-bedroom boho- THE vibrant port city of Fremantle, located experience. With the annual event now
chic beach house provides the perfect less 30 minutes from Perth, has welcomed taking place over spring, art lovers will
gourmet region getaway - with bonus Indian the opening of a new urban distillery – also be able to enjoy the colourful displays
Ocean views. Republic of Fremantle. of wildflowers in the region. Visitors can
Watch the storms roll in, do your own live Crafting signature vodka and gin using combine art with a visit to one of several
surf report, or enjoy the sunset from the deck grapes for Western Australian vineyards, the new regional cellar doors.
or open plan lounge and kitchen. The kids venue features a 100-seat bar and kitchen – Minimalist producer LS Merchants has a
can entertain themselves downstairs on the with additional bar space to come in 2021. new cellar door in Cowaramup. Winemaker
enclosed front lawn, or in the second living Offerings include tasting flights, fresh cocktail Dylan Arvidson produces small batch,
room, which comes complete with a table creations and an eclectic selection of small minimal intervention wine consisting of 20
tennis table. There is also a small gym for share plates and aperitif-style snacks. different varieties, styles and blends and
those so inclined. The inner-city Perth suburb of Mount hand made with wild fermentation where
Attunga is ideally positioned on the Lawley, meanwhile, has recently welcomed possible. Bookings are recommended,
edge of the Meelup Regional Park with its a new neighbourhood café. SoHo Lane, the and wines will be available by the glass
mountain bike trails and walkway along sister venue of coffee spot Little Soho in and bottle to drink at the venue.
some of the state’s most spectacular the Perth CBD. It offers an all-day brunch Another new winery to check out is Skigh
coastline. The name means ‘high place’ in menu focusing on simple dishes including Wines. Located in the Yallingup hills with
the local Wadandi language and guests can New York-style pickle-brined fried chicken a relaxed, rustic set up and a sprawling
enjoy views across Geographe Bay. and ox tongue pastrami bagel. The colour garden. The cellar door tasting room is
This bright and airy contemporary beach palette for the venue is also inspired by New open Friday through to Monday, and walk-
house sleeps eight and provides living York streetscapes – with the owners Matt ins are welcome.
spaces over two levels. It is convenient to Miller and Trindy Adler having lived in that Also in Yallingup, Marri Wood Park
Dunsborough, local beaches, and mountain city for 12 years. The drinks menu features has recently opened a cellar door and
bike trails. coffee locally roasted by Micrology Coffee is a must-visit for those interested in
Roozen Residence in Margaret River has Roasters, and a rotating selection of single b i o d y n a m i c , re g e n e r a t i v e f a r m i n g
been regularly listed as one of Australia’s origin brews, tea, speciality chai, kombucha practices. Guests can book ahead to
best beach houses. Its cantilevered balcony and cold-pressed juices. receive a complimentary cheese platter.
is a recognisable feature of the Prevelly Hill Also in Perth, the Parmelia Hilton Hotel has And for beer lovers, Aravina Estate
overlooking the Margaret River surf break. undergone a $45 million transformation and winery has recently started serving up
Winner of multiple architectural awards, is once again welcoming visitors. The iconic craft beer. Brewed onsite by chief brewer
Roozen Residence has the wow factor with 53-year-old hotel has a new look and features Dr Brad Hutton – who is also one of
concrete, copper and glass features that do completely touchless Digital Key technology. the winemakers – the new taphouse is
not come standard in regular beach houses. Some of the works carried out include a currently pouring five of its own brews
With two separate guest wings, expansive complete revitalisation of the hotel lobby – under the 8 Waves Brewing Co label.
kitchen and open living and enormous with locally inspired design and artwork, the
balcony overlooking the ocean, Roozen addition of 32 new rooms and an executive
Top: Roozen residence, ocean view lounge leading to
Residence is perfect for groups of friends lounge, refurbishment of the restaurant, and the balcony.
Opposite page left: Pullman Bunker Bay restaurant.
or large families. an integrated thoroughfare connecting the
Opposite page right: Double Tree by Hilton Perth
hotel lobby to the Brookfield Place precinct. Waterfront.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 51


121 TASTED
100 AWARDED

BEST OF THE WEST


Remember those great classic dry whites from WA in the Trevelen Farm
Katie's Kiss Great
"good old days?" Never fear, here we see the continuation of Southern Riesling
lovely sauvignon blancs and SBS blends for those that love the 2019 ★★★★
Nose showing some
style. Not surprisingly, those at the forefront in this judging toasty development
with some residual
included the chardonnays, cabernet sauvignons and increasingly sweetness on the floral
alternative red varietals and popular mid-weight shiraz wines. citrus palate balanced by
the acid. $18
When you are on a good thing stick to it but also add some
more options if you can! SAUVIGNON
BLANC
9 TASTED
7 AWARDED

SPARKLING OTHER WHITE RIESLING A testament to the


1 TASTED 6 TASTED
VARIETALS & great sauvignon blancs
1 AWARDED 3 AWARDED
of WA. “These showed
BLENDS
4 TASTED great winemaking,
A very nice example A couple of excellent
3 AWARDED balancing phenolics Whicher Ridge
of a blanc de blanc examples but overall, Odyssey Garden
with natural acidity and
sparkling. this group was a bit Geographe
A mixed group of clean, lovely fruit sugars,” said Sauvignon Blanc
disappointing with some
well made, wines. one judge. 2020 ★★★1/2
early development Subtle citrus and
Flowstone obvious but nice acidity Forester Estate stonefruit characters
Moonmilk Margaret to balance. Margaret River with some underlying
River White Blend Sauvignon Blanc green notes and good
2020 ★★★ Lange Estate 2020 ★★★★★ line of acid. $25
Highly aromatic with a Providence Road Nose shows classic
good intensity of floral Frankland River regional asparagus-like Wignalls Wines
flavours with a slight Riesling aromas with lovely Single Vineyard
tropical note. $20 2020 ★★★★★ intensity and generosity Albany Sauvignon
A lovely vibrant lifted of gooseberry/ Blanc 2020 ★★★
Run Free by spicy citrus bouquet. passionfruit varietal Crisp cut grass aromas
Singlefile Great Nicely textured palate, flavours and lovely line and flavours with slight
Southern Pinot good line of upfront of acid. $NA savoury edge and good
Grigio 2020 ★★★ tropical-like fruit flavours. minerality. $19.99
Very varietal nose; flinty Sweetness balanced by Rivendell Estate
and pear-like and tasting crisp acid. $32 Margaret River Run Free by
of sweet pear drops Sauvignon Blanc Singlefile
with crisp acid. $25 Trevelen Farm 2020 ★★★★ Pemberton WA
Estate Great A varietal nose Sauvignon Blanc
Nikola Estate Southern Riesling reminiscent of 2020 ★★★
Regional Swan 2020 ★★★★ gooseberries with Sweet passionfruit
Valley Chenin Blanc Aged brown lime-like classic sauvignon blanc fragrances and a light,
Plantagenet Wyjup 2020 ★★★ aromas with a floral flavours on the soft crisp and full flavoured
Collection Mount Perfumed tropical lift and nice varietal supple palate. $25 palate. $25
Barker Blanc de aromas and nicely intensity to the slightly
Blancs 2017 ★★★★ balanced stonefruit and sweet palate. Good line Hamelin Bay Wines Flowstone Margaret
Buttery brioche bouquet, tropical palate. $35 of acid. $25 Margaret River River Sauvignon
fine bead and excellent Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2018 ★★★
length to the creamy 2020 ★★★★ Confectionery nose with
citrus palate with good Intense grassy bouquet. an intense, flavoursome
acidity. $45 Palate shows good and well-structured
use of phenolics with palate. $32
balanced residual sugar
and nice depth of
flavour. $26

52 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
regional tasting

BLENDS OF CHARDONNAY Woody Nook Single Whicher Ridge Henry


Vineyard Margaret Road Margaret River
19 TASTED
SEMILLON & 15 AWARDED
River Chardonnay Chardonnay
2016 ★★★★1/2 2019 ★★★1/2
SAUVIGNON Long, elegant and very A restrained but very
BLANC Excellent class of youthful for a 5-year- approachable style.
old. Has lovely nutty, Nice hazelnut edge
5 TASTED varietal chardonnays
hazelnut and stonefruit to the varietal fruit
5 AWARDED with good use of characters with spicy characters. $38
oak and winemaking oak and still with plenty
A small but solid group skills. “Very good use of acid. $36 Silkwood Estate
The Walcott
of blends with semillon of sulphides here to Allegiance Wines Pemberton
a good addition to the protect the integrity Unity Margaret Chardonnay
blends. of the fruit and adding River Chardonnay 2019 ★★★
2020 ★★★★ A subtle straightforward
complexity,” said A pleasant combination style with nice spicy
Sandalford Margaret
River Range one judge. WA is of melon, peach and fruit and a high level of
Margaret River consistently at the tropical fruit characters. acidity. $30
Sauvignon Blanc Herbal notes to the nose
forefront with this
Semillon and angular acid palate. After Hours
2020 ★★★★1/2 variety across a number 3-5 $60 Margaret River
Nose is a pleasant mix of regions. Chardonnay
of citrus and passionfruit Thompson Estate Brash Vineyard 2019 ★★★
aromas. The palate The Specialist Single Vineyard Lots of toasty oak
is long, balanced and Margaret River Margaret River aromas and flavours
flavoursome with a good Chardonnay Chardonnay showing an attractive
line of acidity to balance. 2019 ★★★★★ 2019 ★★★★ spicy edge. $34
$21.95 Very youthful with Creamy nougat nose
attractive honeyed and a creamy leesy Sandalford Estate
Forester Estate toffee characters to textured palate with Reserve Margaret
Margaret River the varietal fruit nose. sweet tropical fruit River Chardonnay
Semillon Sauvignon Light, crunchy and flavours with well- 2019 ★★★
Blanc 2020 ★★★★ flavoursome palate with integrated oak. $35 Nice complexity to
Warm, slightly grippy balancing oak. More the nose and nicely
with bright varietal time! 3-5 $80 Below&Above balanced savoury palate
characters showing Single Vineyard with bright acidity. $35
lovely floral notes Thompson Estate Pemberton
and some balanced Margaret River Chardonnay
sweetness. $NA Chardonnay 2017 ★★★★ ROSÉ
2019 ★★★★1/2 A soft, approachable and 5 TASTED
Hamelin Bay Wines Sherbety grapefruit-like nicely balanced style full 5 AWARDED
Margaret River fragrances with a nutty of lovely lemon curd-like
Semillon Sauvignon nougat edge. A nice characters and attractive
spicy oak. $38 Solid class. “These
Blanc 2020 ★★★1/2 balance of nectarine/
Grassy smoky nose with peach fruit flavours with wines are bright, fresh
a slight pungent edge a good hit of spices. $50 Run Free by and clean, as they
and nice balance and Singlefile Singlefile
should be,” said one
weight of citrus flavours. Family Reserve Flowstone Margaret Western Australia
$26 Great Southern Chardonnay judge.
River Chardonnay
Chardonnay 2018 ★★★★1/2 2020 ★★★1/2
Rivendell Estate 2019 ★★★★★ Clean lifted varietal Rivendell Estate
Still fresh and youthful
Margaret River A rich, nicely developing, fruit aromas with a Margaret River Rosé
with toasty oak quite
Semillon Sauvignon old school style of slight pungency and 2020 ★★★★
obvious and nice lift,
Blanc 2020 ★★★ chardonnay. Lovely a rich nicely textured Strawberry bouquet with
drive and balance of
Interesting tropical fruit stonefruit-like varietal tropical fruit palate. a floral edge and slight
stonefruit-like varietal
aromas with steely fruit characters and very 3-5 $25 savoury note. Soft and
characters. $36
notes and a lean green good use of oak. A real generous in the mouth
apple palate. $18 crowd pleaser. $60 Singlefile with crisp acidity. $25
Woody Nook Single
Vineyard Margaret Family Reserve
Great Southern Forester Estate
Cape Mentelle River Chardonnay
Chardonnay Margaret River Rosé
Vineyards Wallcliffe 2017 ★★★★1/2
2020 ★★★1/2 2020 ★★★1/2
Margaret River Long, balanced and
A full flavoured wine Strawberries and
Sauvignon Blanc nicely textured with
with nice use of some rhubarb on the nose and
Semillon 2017 ★★★ stonefruit-like varietal
great phenolics and a sweet-fruited palate
Nicely developing fruit characters with
plenty of acid to balance. with balancing acidity.
toasty oak bouquet a hint of lychees and
3-5 $60 $NA
and a well textured and elements of nougat and
flavoursome palate. $49 hazelnut. $36

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 53


BEST OF THE WEST

Sandalford Margaret Silkwood Estate Vineyard 28 PINOT NOIR


River Range The Walcott Geographe Dolcetto
Margaret River Rosé Pemberton 2020 ★★★1/2 7 TASTED
2020 ★★★ Zinfandel Bright youthful cherry 6 AWARDED
Great juicy fruit 2019 ★★★★ aromas and a chocolaty
characters reminiscent Soft generous style with palate with a spicy lift and Solid results from
of musky strawberries elements reminiscent of some tannic grip. $28
the WA cool climate
with crisp acidity. $21.95 beetroot and raspberries.
Good tannins and firm Singlefile Small regions. “These all
Hamelin Bay Wines acid. $30 Batch Bush Vine showed bright primary
Margaret River Rosé Frankland River
fruit with classic varietal
2020 ★★★ Vineyard 28 Great Southern
Lifted fragrances with Geographe Nebbiolo Grenache characters,” enthused
some pungency and 2019 ★★★★ 2019 ★★★1/2 one judge.
some sweetness on Black cherry and plum- Distinctive rhubarb
the soft and supple like varietal fruit with aromas, a very herbal
palate. $22 good level of tannins and palate, some sweetness
balancing acidity. Give it and greenish tannins.
Abbey Vale time to shine! $30 3-5 $45
Margaret River Rosé
2020 ★★★ Woody Nook Killdog Rosabrook Wines
Floral/herbal bouquet Creek Margaret Margaret River
and a delicate dry River Tempranillo Tempranillo
red palate with zingy RiverBank Estate 2018 ★★★★ 2018 ★★★1/2
acidity. $25 Rebellious Swan Lovely mix of A dry well-balanced style
Valley Tempranillo raspberries, licorice and with nice varietal depth
2019 ★★★★★ plum-like aromas and of mulled-like berry fruit
OTHER RED “Textbook example of a flavours. Lots of oak and characters. $26
BLENDS & fruit driven tempranillo.” slight green tannins. $24
Soft juicy and very RiverBank Estate
VARIETALS drinkable with slight Cape Mentelle Rebellious Swan
16 TASTED confectionery red fruit, Vineyards Wallcliffe Valley Grenache
a spicy element and Margaret River 2019 ★★★
14 AWARDED
seamlessly integrated Merlot Petit Verdot Nice creamy style with
palate. $25 Malbec sweet rhubarb and plum
Excellent class! “All Cabernet Sauvignon fruit and green edged
of these showcased RiverBank Estate Cabernet Franc tannins. $25
Rebellious Swan 2017 ★★★★
their varietal fruit first
Valley Cabernet Lovely blackcurrant-like RiverBank Estate Below&Above
without overdoing fruit characters, plenty Rebellious Swan Single Vineyard
Franc Zinfandel
them with winemaking 2019 ★★★★ of classy oak, silky Valley Grenache Pemberton Pinot
crafting,” noted one Attractive leafy tannins and balancing Shiraz Mataro Noir 2017 ★★★★★
blackberry fragrances acidity. $49 Cabernet Franc Still very fresh with
judge. 2019 ★★★ a spicy blackcurrant
with nicely developing
flavours. Lots of acid Below&Above Pleasant youthful blend bouquet and nuances of
and some lovely Single Vineyard with bright strawberry forest floor elements.
tannins. $25 Pemberton Merlot characters and weighty Excellent palate, great
2015 ★★★★ tannins. $25 weight of complex and
RiverBank Estate A very interesting wine developing spicy fruit
Rebellious Swan with leafy olive-like Morlet of Margaret characters. $38
Valley Malbec characters and a tarry River The Eighth
2019 ★★★★ note. Good use of Deadly Zin Margaret
Dark berry nose with oak with silky smooth River Zinfandel
hints of prunes and tannins. $35 2015 ★★★
olives and a dense and True to the variety -
very savoury palate. some warmth with very
High level of acidity. sweet chocolaty fruit
3-5 $25 and lots of oak. $35

JUDGES
Dylan Lee Duncan Lloyd Amelia Anspach
Winemaker for Bird in Winemaker at Coriole Winemaker at Angove
Hand Wines, for the Vineyards. Formerly with Family Winemakers.
past seven years. He’s Logan Wines, Mudgee. Previously vintaged with
vintaged in Northern Vintages completed in Cape Mentelle and overseas
Rhone and Canada, Chateau Neuf du Pape with Domaine Chandon
along with Margaret (Rhone) and locally (Argentina), Domaine
River, McLaren Vale and Mosswood (Western Serenc (California) and
the Swan Valley. He has Australia) and Josef Kendermanne (Mosel).
completed the Australian Chromy (Tasmania). Associate judge at Riverland,
Wine Assessment Associate judge at the Rutherglen and Cowra wine
Course (AWAC). Mudgee wine show. shows.

54 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
regional tasting

Silkwood Estate The Mount Trio Great Woody Nook Single


Walcott Pemberton Southern Cabernet Vineyard Margaret
Pinot Noir Malbec River Cabernet
2019 ★★★★1/2 2019 ★★★★1/2 Merlot 2017 ★★★★
A savoury style of pinot; A big dense and A lovely leafy varietal
brooding and dark with generous drink with good weight of
interesting funky forest with lovely savoury cassis and plum-like fruit
floor characters mixing blackcurrant fruit profile, characters with long
with cherry-like fruit and great tannins and just silky tannins. $36
showing an elegant line the right amount of acid
of tannins. $30 to balance. 3-5 Flowstone Margaret
$20 River Cabernet
Singlefile Single Sauvignon Touriga
Vineyard Pemberton Forester Estate 2015 ★★★★
Pinot Noir Lifestyle Margaret Nicely aged wine with
2020 ★★★★ River Cabernet a spicy red berry nose,
A lifted Ribena bouquet Merlot hints of anise and a
and soft and supple in 2018 ★★★★1/2 gentle oaky palate
the mouth with clean A riper style of wine that with some residual
bright flavours and is all cherries and dark sweetness. $36
excellent tannin weight. chocolate and showing
3-5 $35 a high level of acid and Singlefile Great
layered with elegant Southern Cabernet
Wignalls Wines tannins. $NA Sauvignon Merlot Brash Vineyard Thompson Estate
Single Vineyard 2018 ★★★1/2 Single Vineyard The Specialist
Albany Pinot Noir Rivendell Estate Great drive and purity Margaret River Margaret River
2018 ★★★★ Margaret River of cassis/blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon
Good, aged complexity Cabernet Shiraz fruit with hints of 2019 ★★★★★ 2017 ★★★★★
obvious on the 2018 ★★★★1/2 olives. Good acid and The nose is all red A classic cabernet with
nose with excellent Still a youthful wine tannins. $25 cherries and has a brooding berry and violet
preservation of varietal with attractive great spicy lift. Dark bouquet and a long,
fruit flavours and nice confectionery raspberry After Hours and chocolaty in the fresh and seamlessly
acid line. $34 fruit fragrances and Margaret River mouth layered with balanced palate that has
“stavey” oak characters Cabernet Merlot black cherry-like fruit a generous juicy fruit
Silkwood Estate and an elegant tannin 2019 ★★★ with nice firm tannins. core. 5+ $90
The Bowers structure. $22 Spicy oak bouquet with 5+ $45
Pemberton Pinot a firm warm palate with Allegiance Wines
Noir 2020 ★★★1/2 Sandalford Margaret slightly jammy fruit. Unity Margaret River
Very pleasant varietal River Range 3-5 $24 Cabernet Sauvignon
with bright purple Margaret River 2020 ★★★★1/2
hues, not overly Cabernet Merlot Very young bright purple
complex but offering 2018 ★★★★ CABERNET wine with a lift of dark
good drinking. $21 Pretty violet lift to the SAUVIGNON vibrant fruit aromas
cassis nose. Palate is and, for a one-year-old,
Plantagenet firm and rich with lots
17 TASTED
it has a generous, well-
Normand Great of tarry characters and 14 AWARDED
balanced palate that
Southern Pinot Noir some up-front tannins. is fresh and crunchy.
2020 ★★★1/2 $21.95 Excellent class! “Great 5+ $100
Very approachable, acid
to see balanced wines
driven, wine brimming Saracen Estates Rivendell Estate
over with red cherries. Margaret River without green fruit Margaret River
Light use of oak. $40 Cabernet Merlot or leafy eucalyptus Cabernet Sauvignon
2017 ★★★★ 2019 ★★★★1/2
characters,” said one
A powerful lift of plum Still youthful with a
CABERNET jam-like aromas with judge. “Also, the astute
vibrant leafy plum
BLENDS olive notes and hints use of oak is evident bouquet showing some
of mint. A very classy here and the best wines smoky toastiness. Palate
10 TASTED palate with soy/honey
exhibiting that extra has a generous core of
9 AWARDED elements. $26 lovely cabernet fruit with
core of fruit.” great tannins. $32
Excellent group of Thompson Estate
cabernet predominant Margaret River Lange Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon Fifth Generation
blends. “The stand- 2018 ★★★★★ Frankland River
out trait here is the A very seductive Cabernet Sauvignon
elegance of these mulberry nose with 2019 ★★★★1/2
lovely warming spicy A pretty nose with the
wines without excess
characters. Good lovely classical varietal
oak or over handling,” complexity and notes of violets. An
said one judge. concentration of red fruit elegant slightly rustic
flavours with cedary oak palate with eucalypt
and elegant tannins. notes. Time will improve
5+ $50 it further. 5+ $50

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 55


BEST OF THE WEST

Rosabrook Wines Saracen Estates Lange Estate


Single Vineyard Margaret River Fifth Generation
Estate Margaret Cabernet Sauvignon Frankland River
River Cabernet 2016 ★★★★ Shiraz
Sauvignon An elegant and silky- 2019 ★★★★1/2
2017 ★★★★1/2 smooth wine. Good Lovely concentration
Very well-made wine, length of plum and of dark berry fruit
amazingly youthful blackberry fruit with fragrances with a richer
with great varietal hints of leather and riper velvety smooth
fruit characters of spices. $35 palate. Shows good use
blackberries, cherries of toasty oak and has
and hints of anise. Woody Nook plenty of acidity. $50
Great drying tannins. Gallaghers Choice
5+ $45 Margaret River Marron Creek
Cabernet Sauvignon Frankland River
Woody Nook 2016 ★★★1/2 Syrah
Gallaghers Choice A sweet nose of cassis 2018 ★★★★1/2
Margaret River and violets with a soft An elegant wine that is
Cabernet Sauvignon chocolaty palate layered typical of a cool climate
2015 ★★★★1/2 with mulberry fruit. $65 shiraz that shows good
Good example of the intensity of “bouncy”
varietal with some nice Saracen Estates spicy peppery red
leafiness on the cassis Reserve Margaret fruit characters. Very
nose and a velvety River Cabernet Brash Vineyard approachable. $30 Cape Mentelle
smooth palate holding up Sauvignon Single Vineyard Vineyards Two
very well with long silky 2016 ★★★ Margaret River Cox Family Wines Vineyards Margaret
tannins. 3-5 $65 Smells of rum and Shiraz 2018 ★★★★★ Margaret River River Shiraz
raisins with a nicely Lovely deep red wine Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2
Singlefile Single matured palate laced with bright purple 2017 ★★★★1/2 Very interesting, still
Vineyard Frankland with drying tannins. $56 highlights. Great Light bodied, cool youthful, wine with
River Great dark berry and plum climate, wine with lifted a lovely mélange of
Southern Cabernet fruit characters with minty peppery nose and plums, cherries and
Sauvignon SHIRAZ/SYRAH nice savoury oak and plenty of mouthwatering cassis fruit characters.
2018 ★★★★ & BLENDS fine tannins. Very interest to the palate. Slightly savoury oak and
A soft and very flavoursome. $35 High acidity and slightly some lovely tannins. $98
approachable style
21 TASTED green tannins. $30
with a lovely balance 17 AWARDED
Brash Vineyard
between jubey black Allegiance Wines Single Vineyard
fruit, acid and drying Very strong group of The Artisan Margaret River
tannins. 5+ $39 Margaret River Syrah 2019 ★★★★
wines. “Generally, Shiraz A powerful savoury oak
Sandalford Estate these are lovely mid- 2017 ★★★★1/2 nose and a rich black
Reserve Margaret weight wines with Lavender-like lift to fruit palate with good
River Cabernet the pretty cherry nose spicy oak and velvety
very approachable soft
Sauvignon with more perfumed tannins. $35
2018 ★★★★ tannins,” said one characters obvious on
Bright red varietal fruit judge. “Some wines the soft, interesting and Silkwood Estate The
nose with a spicy edge showed the attractive elegant palate. Still very Walcott Pemberton
and a firm and spicy fresh for its age. $40 Shiraz 2018 ★★★★
blackberry and cassis fruit black pepper and spice
Soft and rounded shiraz
palate. 5+ $45 characteristics of the that is bright with
cooler regions.” raspberry fruit, has plenty
Singlefile The Philip of acid and a good palate
Adrian Frankland Forester Estate structure. $30
River Great Lifestyle Margaret
Southern Cabernet River Shiraz Sandalford Estate
Sauvignon 2019 ★★★★★ Reserve Margaret
2018 ★★★★ A pretty rose petal-like River Shiraz
Simple dark jubey fruit floral element to the 2018 ★★★★
bouquet with a soft and raspberry driven nose. Whicher Ridge Light red fruit nose with
very approachable palate The palate is soft and Tapalinga Margaret leafy notes and nicely
that’s round and rich in elegant and loaded River Shiraz developing red fruit
the mouth. $100 with spices and pepper 2019 ★★★★1/2 flavours with acid and
and has nicely rounded Strawberries and tannins in balance. $35
tannins. $NA cherries lift off the nose
and edged with spicy
peppery elements.
Soft and spicy in the
mouth with fine delicate
tannins. “Almost pinot-
like!” $38

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T AK E T H E R O A D LE SS T RA V E LL ED
AND DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM,
W H I C H E R R I D G E W I N ES .

Whicher Ridge is the result of 10 years of work


by the dynamic duo of Neil and Cathy Howard,
a vigneron and winemaker couple with a
combined 50 years of grape growing and
winemaking experience between them.

The couple specialise in making small batch,


single vineyard wines which are full of varietal
DQG WHUURLU VSHFLÀF ÁDYRXUV IURP YLQHV JURZQ
in the ancient soils of three of Australia’s most
isolated wine regions in the south west of Western
Australia.

For those unable to visit the Cellar Door in person,


Whicher Ridge has created wine tasting kits with
a selection of samples of their single vineyard
wines. The Kits are delivered direct to you with
free shipping and a discount coupon to use on
your wine purchase.

When travelling next to the Margaret River


Region, make sure that you visit the Whicher
Ridge Cellar Door for a totally unique wine
tasting experience, the centrepiece of which
is the Wine Sensory Garden. The Garden is the
only one of its kind in Australia and has been a
consistent regional award winner in the annual
Gourmet Traveller Wine Cellar Door Awards.

Visit the website for more information on


the wine tasting kits and the wine tasting
experiences on offer.

200 Chapman Hill E Rd,


Chapman Hill WA 6280

E: wine@whicherridge.com.au
P: 0448 531 399
W: www.whicherridge.com.au

WhicherRidgeWines
whicherridgewines

Scan the QR
code to watch
our story video
on YouTube
BEST OF THE WEST

Hamelin Bay Wines Trevelen Farm


Rampant Red Frankland Reserve
Margaret River Great Southern
Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz 2017 ★★★
2019 ★★★1/2 A pretty nose; simple,
Balsamic-like characters perfumed and peppery
to the simple sweet fruit with soft ripe fruit
nose and a juicy Ribena/ flavours. $25
blackcurrant flavoured
palate. $22
FORTIFIED
Saracen Estates 1 TASTED
Margaret River 1 AWARDED
Shiraz 2017 ★★★1/2
Great concentration of
bright red berry fruit with Flowstone Margaret
lifted aromas and long River Vintage
clean and flavoursome Touriga 2018 ★★★
palate. $35 A very young,
uncomplicated vintage
Mount Trio Great port style. Lovely light
Southern Syrah floral fruit characters
2019 ★★★ with some raisined
Plantagenet Wyjup Bright and juicy with notes. $50
STAR RATINGS ★★★★★
Collection Mount sweet strawberry fruit, Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of
Barker Shiraz leafy herbal notes and excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.
2018 ★★★★ some spiciness. $20
All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry
Lots of oak but has bright professionals and are compared in peer
raspberry/boysenberry Woody Nook Single
Vineyard Margaret classes by three judges.
fruit to match. Elegant
River Shiraz CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,
tannins and a good line
of acid. $80 2018 ★★★ a major mail-order business.
Warm, sweet and silky- CD Cellar door price.
smooth wine with nice CDO Cellar door only.
dark fruit and plenty of SO Sold out.
oak. $36 $N/A Price not available at time of printing.
☎ Contact information pg 88.
RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).
BEST VALUE for $20 & under.
For a complete list of what we tasted
please refer to www.winestate.com.au

Charnwood Estate in Mudgee is a small player kicking big goals with its Shiraz and
Merlot. As small and boutique as wineries come, Charnwood demanded everyone’s
attention when its 2009 Charlie’s Row Merlot won against some higher profile wineries
in the 2011 Winewise Championship.
Charnwood Estate is located in the Mudgee wine region of NSW; located on a historic
property just 5 minutes from the centre of Mudgee and nestled at the foot of the hills
in the delightful Cudgegong Valley.
At Charnwood, we specialise in red wines and are particularly proud of our Shiraz
which keeps going from strength to strength.

For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at


The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee.

ph: 0417 451 102


email: info@charnwoodestate.com.au
www.charnwoodestate.com.au

58 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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travelbriefs
WINSOR DOBBIN

NEW SOUTH WALES

WINE LOVERS RETREAT


FOR wine lovers there is a special thrill in showcasing producers from around the MUCH MORE THAN
staying in a vineyard or on a winemaking Mediterranean; from regions of France, MOTORSPORT!
property. Italy, and Spain as well as countries such as
BATHURST is probably more strongly
Leading Hunter Valley producer De luliis Greece, Armenia, Georgia and Turkey.
associated with motor racing than wine,
has just launched the Winemakers House at Meaning “divine wines” in Italian and
but the Central West region is home to
De luliis: which for the moment is one of the embodying la dolce vita (the sweet life),
a handful of wine producers, including
valley's best-kept secrets. Vini Divini will focus on the enjoyment of
recently opened Rock Forest Vineyard
The contemporary four-bedroom house is a wine, food, and good company with a
which has a deep Indigenous connection.
split-level residence billed as being ideal for European vibe. French-born sommelier
A massive flat rock surface below the cellar
up to seven guests. Located on Broke Road Raphael Mulligan collaborates with small,
door collects water as it did for thousands
at the home of De luliis, Winemakers House independent winemakers and distributors
of years by the Wiradjuri people.
has a fully equipped kitchen, fireplace, air- to regularly update the list, drawing on
Renzaglia Wines has a newly refurbished
con, wifi, Nespresso machine and an outdoor his experience heading the wine program
cellar door and also try Vale Creek,
entertaining area with a private barbecue. at Eleven Bridge, as well as working at
Bellbrook Friends Wines and Winburndale
Nestled just 30 metres from De Iuliis’ Rosetta, Rockpool and Tapavino.
Wines for boutique experiences. See www.
architecturally designed cellar door, guests Complementing the wines is a menu of
bathurstregion.com.au.
are free to wander around the winery and delicious Mediterranean dishes and mezzé-
taste premium wines. The house features four style plates led by chef Seda Güç, including
bedrooms comprising one king room with an baba ganoush made fresh each morning,
EXPERIENCE THE ULTIMATE
en-suite bathroom, two king rooms, one king beetroot-marinated artichokes with toasted THE Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia
single room (ideal for the snorer in the party), almonds, slow-cooked lamb shoulder with is a group of wine producers who offer more
and two-and-a-half bathrooms. Winemakers fregola salad and caramelised apple, and a than just a taste of wine at their cellar doors.
House at De luliis is pet-friendly, meaning selection of salumi and cheeses. Members offer a range of experiences and
four-legged friends are welcome to join the Adding to the Mediterranean vibe is Vini tastings designed for serious wine lovers.
family getaway. Divini’s interiors, featuring wall-length prints Family-owned Printhie Wines in Orange,
To celebrate the launch, De luliis is offering of iconic Italian movie stars Sophia Loren and New South Wales, is the latest addition to
a "Book two nights, receive the third night Marcello Mastroianni, the wine wall sourced its collective.
free," deal that includes a premium wine from Italy, a slab of Iranian rainbow pink “We’re delighted to welcome Printhie
tasting at the De Iuliis cellar door. Rates start onyx on the kitchen island-style bar, velvet as our 26th winery member,” says Kate
from $683 per night midweek for a minimum armchairs, plush rugs from Belgium and that Shilling, Executive Officer, Ultimate Winery
of two nights. outdoor seating overlooking Wynyard Park. Experiences Australia. “They bring new and
See www.huntervalleystays.com.au/hunter- The wine bar also offers a private dining room exciting winery experiences to our offering,
valley-accommodation/winemakers-house- tucked away at the back. as well as superb cool climate craftsmanship
at-de-iuliis/184. “Vini Divini is all about bringing people found in their wines and sparkling range.”
together to laugh, enjoy wine, break bread, Printhie Wines was established in 1996
A DIVINE WINE EXPERIENCE and share stories and ideas,” said Belgian- when the first vines were planted on the Swift
born owner Philippe Gilbert. family’s property by Jim and Ruth Swift. The
SYDNEY’S newest CBD wine bar, Vini Divini,
“Close relationships with friends and family, winery was added in 2004, changing the
has opened with a huge central bar, al fresco
and the interactions one has in a community, dynamic of the business from grape growing
seating, a Mediterranean wine-influenced
are central to the Mediterranean lifestyle – and to wine production.
menu, and a wine wall stocking more than
we wanted to bring this to life at Vini Divini.” Their sons, Ed and Dave, returned home
1000 bottles from 10 different countries, as
The newest addition to the Brookfield in the early 2000s to manage the winery and
curated by Rockpool Dining Group’s former
Place precinct at 60 Carrington Street near vineyard operations. They have now forged a
head sommelier.
Wynyard, Vini Divini is open Monday to Friday reputation for world-class wines that capture
Vini Divini will offer one of the biggest “by the
for all-day wining and dining from noon to late. the defining element of the Orange wine
glass” selections in Sydney and the diverse
See www.vinidivini.com.au. region - altitude. Each of their four vineyards
wine list has been designed to be accessible,

60 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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travelbriefs

were chosen with site, aspect and elevation direct from Sydney to Canberra; a private Melbourne-based craft beverages business
in mind and include the highest vineyard in helicopter ride landing directly beside the Founders First (known in the industry as
Orange at 1070 metres. Shaw vines; seated wine tasting; and three- Mighty Craft) acquired the prominent wine
Printhie Wines makes the méthode course lunch with your choice of Shaw wines country gateway site in October last year.
traditionnelle Swift sparkling range, in the private cellar before returning home “The Mighty” will become a hub for craft
considered to be one of Australia’s finest (from $2750 per person). drinks as well as home to local craft beer
and awarded best bubbles at the NSW Wine producer Foghorn Brewery.
Awards for the last three years. PLENTY HAPPENING IN THE Chef Sean Townsend formerly of hatted
“It’s very much a family affair that focuses on CAPITAL Muse Restaurant, Muse Kitchen and more
the quality of our cool-climate wines above all recently the Prince of Merewether has taken
else,” says Dave Swift. THE Australian national capital of Canberra over the kitchen.
The Printhie Sparkling Masterclass offers has a vibrant wine and food scene that is “For me being able to return to Pokolbin was
guests a guided walking tour of the vineyard, constantly evolving. The newest kid on the something I knew I always wanted to do, and
providing a rare insight into the process of block is tucked away in the city centre's the opportunity with the Mighty Craft group is
creating sparkling, hosted by one of the outskirts in the Campbell 5 precinct. not only around producing great food, but also
estate’s sparkling specialists, including a Here you will find Paranormal Wines, allows me huge personal growth,” he said.
private tasting of the Swift sparkling range. a bottle shop and bar specialising in
natural wines and left-field wines. Pick
Guests can also explore the estate during POKOLBIN’S TOPS!
an intimate Printhie Picnic, which includes a from a selection of local Canberra district
wines and a wide range of Australian and POKOLBIN, meanwhile, was named by
guided tasting and a picnic hamper filled with
international drops. Stay for a while and sip online booking company Wotif.com as its top
delicious sweet and savoury treats. Using
on a drink of your choice, order a snack and destination in New South Wales and second
a map of the property, guests can select a
take in the relaxed surroundings, or choose nationally behind Cairns.
private place to relax among the vineyards
a bottle to take home. It is open Wednesdays The 2021 Wotif Aussie Town of the Year
or the heritage apple orchard.
to Sundays, 11am-8pm. awards are based on a data index which
The region of Orange is renowned
The Eat Canberra team is back and ready considers a destination’s accommodation
for producing impeccable wines, with
to help visitors discover some of the best quality, affordability, and traveller satisfaction
vineyards like Printhie taking advantage
eats and hidden gems in Canberra. Join on Wotif.com from January 2020 - September
of the unique viticulture offered by the high
them on a Taste of Braddon food adventure 2020. This year’s winning destinations, which
elevations created by the extinct volcano,
and eat your way around and sample tasty NSW dominated overall, have been awarded
Mount Canobolas.
food and drink at five venues with a four-hour based on their accommodation quality,
“This results in consistently high quality,
walking tour along the Lonsdale 'Eat' Street affordability, and traveller satisfaction.
distinctive wines,” says Dave. Discover
in Braddon. From $145 per person. Commenting on the award, Cessnock
more at www.ultimatewineryexperiences.
The latest hot spot to eat can be found in a City Mayor Bob Pynsent said: “it’s no
com.au.
laneway behind the historic Sydney Building surprise Pokolbin is the top destination in
off Northbourne Avenue. The Verity Lane our state. We are home to so many amazing
TAKING EXPERIENCES TO
Market, meanwhile, is a chef-driven food tourism operators who provide a first-class
NEW HEIGHTS experience, surrounded by our natural
hall with three kitchens Ramen Daddy, Super
FAMILY-OWNED and operated Shaw Bao, and Pizza Artigiana serving the hungry beauty.”
Wines has launched two new luxury tasting hordes. The art deco cocktail style Verity Bar Amy Cooper, CEO of the Hunter Valley
experiences to take wine appreciation to new offers an extensive list of drinks. In time, the Wine & Tourism Association added: “We are
heights in Murrumbateman. laneway offerings will expand. It is open for delighted that Pokolbin has been recognised
The Premium Private Cellar Tasting includes dinner Tuesdays to Sundays until late and by the awards, particularly as they recognise
four Reserve wines to try using a set of Riedel lunch Thursdays to Saturday. the positive reviews of travellers.
varietal glasses — yours to take home after “After a challenging 2020, we congratulate
the session — plus a glass of estate wine the businesses who have worked so hard
ARRIVALS AND
and a vineyard platter ($275 per person; to adapt to the changing needs of travellers
DEPARTURES
Wednesdays and Thursdays only). and who have offered a warm welcome to the
More exotic is The Shaw Escape, including THE Hunter Valley has said farewell to Potters many new visitors to our region in 2020.”
a private plane ride for up to six people Hotel and hello to The Mighty Hunter. Opposite page: Vini Divini 1000+ wine wall.
This page: Shaw Wines new cellar door.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 61


184 TASTED
140 AWARDED

WINES OF NSW
Our "number one" state performed well again here, showing Capital Wines Centennial
The Speaker Vineyards Reserve
the diversity of products across the many climes involved. Not Canberra Sparkling Southern Highlands
surprisingly, world class semillons were again a feature with Chardonnay Pinot Pinot Gris
Noir 2013 ★★★ 2019 ★★★1/2
chardonnay performing as well. A big line up of shiraz across Complex aromas of Nicely evolving wine
truffles and spices with with savoury secondary
various vintages showed character with a surprisingly good a good spectrum of characters and a finesse
result from shiraz blends. flavours. $35 of floral flavours. $35

Tempus Two
PINOT GRIS/ Varietal NSW Pinot
GRIGIO Grigio 2020 ★★★
Musky perfumed pear
5 TASTED fragrances and some
3 AWARDED lovely fresh floral
flavours. $15
SPARKLING Centennial
Vineyards Miller's A few good examples
8 TASTED
7 AWARDED
Southern Highlands offering easy drinking RIESLING
Sparkling Pinot and ranging from flinty 5 TASTED
Meunier Rosé
NV ★★★ to pure varietal styles. 4 AWARDED
A solid group of
An acid driven style with
sparkling wines. “The strawberry and cream A good result here
better ones here aromas and green apple with lovely varietal
were well made with flavours. $35
characters on display
winemakers paying
Iron Gate Estate and one excellent aged
attention to texture,” Hunter Valley Blanc example.
said one judge. de Blanc 2020 ★★★
A simple pleasant drink Tamburlaine Organic
with light floral aromas Wines Reserve
and a bright fresh apple/ Orange Riesling
citrus palate. $30 2004 ★★★★★
A remarkable wine
Gartelmann Hunter for its age. Lovely,
Valley Blanc de evolved toasty/glacé
Blancs 2020 ★★★ fruit fragrances and
Slight greenness to the a powerful, soft, full
Colmar Estate buttery nose with nice flavoured palate still
Orange Sparkling intensity of lemon/citrus showing great drive and
Chardonnay Pinot flavours. $38 energy. $40
Noir 2015 ★★★★★
A lovely bouquet of PepperGreen Estate
peach and pear aromas Brut Methode
with nice toastiness Traditionelle NSW
Southern Highlands Trentham Estate
adding complexity. Grown Murray
The palate is still bright Chardonnay Pinot
Noir Pinot Meunier Darling Pinot Gris
and vibrant showing 2020 ★★★1/2
good drive and energy. 2018 ★★★
Ripe pear nose with Lovely aromatic lift to
Classy! $60 the nose and a fleshy
subtle spiciness and full
flavoured buttery/toasty lychee/sweet citrus
Colmar Estate driven palate. Very
Orange Brut Rosé palate. $60
approachable. $18
2017 ★★★★
Very attractive bright
fragrant aromas. A tight
palate with good drive
and persistence of lemon/
citrus flavours. $45

62 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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regional tasting

Caravan South East Boydell's Estate Coolangatta Estate McGuigan Bin


Australia Sauvignon Hunter Valley Wollstonecraft 9000 Hunter Valley
Blanc 2020 ★★★ Verdelho 2020 ★★★ Shoalhaven Coast Semillon
Lovely pungent tropical “A cracking good food Semillon 2014 ★★★★
nose - lots of fresh wine!” Great intensity 2009 ★★★★★ Lovely length to this still
tropical fruit flavours - and persistence of juicy A lifted aromatic very youthful wine. A
good acidity. $11.99 flavours. $25 complexity to the complex mix of creamy
nose with flinty and lemon fruit and biscuity/
Trentham Estate toasty elements. Great toasty elements. $45
Grown Murray SEMILLON & vibrancy to the creamy
Darling Sauvignon BLENDS palate and excellent McGuigan Shortlist
Blanc 2020 ★★★ bottle age supported by Hunter Valley
Nice flintiness to the
26 TASTED the fruit. $60 Semillon
nose with simple crisp 24 AWARDED 2013 ★★★★
green herbaceous edged McGuigan Bin Fresh and delicate zesty
flavours. $18 An amazing class 9000 Hunter Valley lemon bouquet and a
Semillon pretty, poised and well-
of semillons where 2007 ★★★★★ balanced palate with
the straight varietals Toasty bouquet with subtle flavours. $30
outperformed the a lemony lift and a
flinty thread. Fabulous Briar Ridge Dairy
blends. New South
buttery lemon flavour Hill Single Vineyard
Wales continues to profile with great Hunter Valley
Highland Heritage champion this variety toasty characters. “A Semillon
Mt Canobolas Dry and shows the rest very nice wine,” said 2013 ★★★★
Orange Riesling one judge. $45 Smells like buttered
of the country how it toast and has a nicely
2020 ★★★★1/2
A classy wine with an should be done. McGuigan focused and a long
enticing exotic fragrant Shortlist Hunter and mellow toasty fruit
floral nose and a bright McGuigan Shortlist Valley Semillon palate. $80
acid driven honeyed Hunter Valley 2019 ★★★★1/2
peach palate. Great Semillon A nice tightly wound McGuigan Bin
cellaring potential. $28 2018 ★★★★★ wine with plenty of 9000 Hunter Valley
A very tight and time in it yet. Excellent Semillon
Capital Wines vibrant green wine colour, slight herbal/ 2018 ★★★1/2
The Whip Canberra with excellent cellaring snow pea-like varietal A good wine with floral/
Riesling potential. The nose is characters and tangy citrus fruit, attractive
2018 ★★★1/2 lifted and citrusy. The acidity. $30 secondary toasty notes
A mix of floral, honeyed, palate has great balance developing and phenolic
toasty aromas with of attractive secondary Tempus Two Pewter notes. $25
a lovely bright palate Highland Heritage characters. $30 Hunter Valley
crisp with green apple Mt Canobolas Semillon Briar Ridge Dairy
flavours. $21 Orange Fumé Blanc Coolangatta Estate 2014 ★★★★1/2 Hill Single Vineyard
2020 ★★★ Wollstonecraft A good wine, still Hunter Valley
Robert Stein White A different style with Shoalhaven Coast very tight with pure Semillon
Label Mudgee citrus fruit, sweet floral Semillon lemon/lime varietal 2018 ★★★1/2
Riesling 2020 ★★★ notes and delicate use 2017 ★★★★★ fruit characters laced A tight “prickly” style
Candied apple aromas of oak. $28 Pale yellow semillon that with toasty elements with nicely retained
with slight toasty notes is ageing beautifully. and has a minerally youthful acidity and some
and a basic crisp lemon/ Good length, weight aftertaste. $40 green pea notes. $35
lime palate. $35
OTHER WHITE and balance of citrus
BLENDS & fruit characters with a McGuigan Bin Coolangatta Estate
developed toasty lift and 9000 Hunter Valley Wollstonecraft
SAUVIGNON VARIETALS nice acid backbone. $40 Semillon Shoalhaven Coast
2 TASTED 2011 ★★★★1/2 Semillon
BLANC Coolangatta Estate Subtle nose with a citrus 2018 ★★★1/2
6 TASTED 2 AWARDED
Shoalhaven Coast lift, delicate florals and A slightly fuller, well-
3 AWARDED Semillon hints of toast. Lovely made wine offering easy
Two great examples 2016 ★★★★★ long and seamlessly drinking now and good
here. A buttery toasty nose balanced palate with a cellaring potential. $45
The judges were a bit with some citrus lemony aftertaste. $45
disappointed with this Tamburlaine Organic characters and more McGuigan Bin
flight. The better wines Wines Point65 toasty characters McGuigan Shortlist 9000 Hunter Valley
Hunter Valley following through onto Hunter Valley Semillon
showed some varietal
Orange Viognier the palate but it has Semillon 2013 ★★★1/2
definition and vibrancy great pure citrus fruit 2014 ★★★★ Nicely focused varietal
2019 ★★★★
but too many lacked An attractive mix of intensity. $40 Very youthful looking characters with subtle
flavour. lemon meringue-like wine with fantastic toasty development
characters and tropical length of herbaceous, and good minerally
fruits nicely balanced by green bean and citrus-like finesse. $45
some smart oak. $30 varietal characters. $30

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 63


WINES OF NSW

RidgeView Wines RidgeView Wines McGuigan Cellar Ross Hill Wines Ross Hill Wines
Generations Reserve Generations Reserve Select Tumbarumba Monocle Orange Maya & Max Orange
Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay
Semillon Semillon 2013 ★★★ 2019 ★★★★★ 2020 ★★★★ 2020 ★★★
2009 ★★★1/2 A vibrant and still very A well-made and Medium bodied Melons and peaches
A golden wine with good youthful semillon with complex style of with subtle musk/fig lift off the nose and
buttery toasty characters herbaceous/green bean- chardonnay with a fragrances and flavours varietal flavours fill the
and nice bottle age. Drink like fruit. $60 vibrant straw-like hue, of stonefruits on the mouth. $30
soon! $80 fine flinty fragrances and well balanced, textured,
Coolangatta Estate seamless integration of palate. $35 Tempus Two Copper
Pepper Tree Wine Wollstonecraft fruit, oak and acid on the Wilde Hunter Valley
Of NSW Semillon Shoalhaven Coast palate. $25 Mortimer's Reserve Chardonnay
Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011 ★★★ Orange Chardonnay 2019 ★★★
2020 ★★★ A very enjoyable McGuigan Personal 2019 ★★★★ Peach-like bouquet
An herbaceous lift to the lemon cheesecake of Reserve Hunter A delicate peaches and with nutty notes and a
musky perfumed nose a semillon with nice Ridge Hunter Valley cream nose and some flavoursome oak driven
with gooseberry-like toastiness. $60 Chardonnay subtle oak seamlessly palate. $22
flavours. $20 2019 ★★★★1/2 integrated with the fruit
An interesting wine on the palate. $45 RidgeView Wines
Tempus Two Pewter
CHARDONNAY with good complexity Impressions Hunter
Hunter Valley 23 TASTED – drinking well now! RidgeView Wines Valley Chardonnay
Semillon 2019 ★★★ 18 AWARDED Smells of toasted Impressions Hunter 2019 ★★★
Still youthful with subtle hazelnut and peach Valley Chardonnay Simple easy drinking
melon fruit, nice floral lift with stonefruit and oak 2015 ★★★★ style with green bean-
A strong consistent
and good acid line. $40 flavours. $50 An elegant chardonnay like characters and hints
class of varietal with nice nutty peach of oatmeal. $30
Audrey Wilkinson chardonnays with fragrances, minerally
The Ridge Hunter good, well-balanced, citrus flavours and Ross Hill Wines
Valley Semillon subtle bottle age. $60 Pinnacle Orange
2019 ★★★ flavours. “A few were Chardonnay
Delicate fruit lift to the over ripe and would Pepper Tree Orange 2019 ★★★
nose and a lemon cream have performed better Chardonnay Luscious easy drinking
palate with balancing 2019 ★★★1/2 wine with an attractive
if the fruit had been
acidity. $45 Pleasant varietal tinned stonefruit and
picked earlier,” noted characters of melons and hazelnut character. $40
Coolangatta Estate one judge. “Different peaches with tropical
Wollstonecraft nuances. Nice lingering Saddler's Creek
regions produced
Shoalhaven Coast flavours. $20 Wines Alessandro
Semillon 2016 ★★★ different styles. Reserve
Easy drinking wine with There were the cool Gartelmann Lisa Tumbarumba NSW
some lemon/citrus fruit climate, restrained Reserve Orange Chardonnay
and toasty secondary Region Chardonnay 2019 ★★★
characters. $45 fruit characters of 2018 ★★★1/2 Floral aromatics, melon
the Tumbarumba and A complexity of peach fruit flavours, oatmeal
Tempus Two Pewter Orange areas to the and sweet spicy aromas elements and minerally
Hunter Valley with a solid oak and acidity. $45
ripe melon and peach
Semillon 2015 ★★★ stonefruit palate. $45
A beautiful zesty wine characters evident from Trentham Reserve
with years in it yet. the warmer climes of Tamburlaine Tumbarumba
Lifted perfumed nose Robert Stein Organic Wines Chardonnay
the Hunter Valley.
and crisp finish. $40 Reserve Mudgee On The Grapevine 2018 ★★★
Chardonnay Orange Hunter A well-made, complex,
2018 ★★★★1/2 Valley Chardonnay oak driven style with
An attractive textured 2020 ★★★ a peach-like fruit
wine with a nicely A nicely balanced character. $28
developing complexity straightforward
of peaches, lychees chardonnay in the fig
and toasted cashews and stonefruit spectrum.
with some funky $20
elements. $50
J UDG ES - D AY 1
Janelle Badrice Reid Bosward James Evers
Owner/operator and Winemaker for Kaesler Senior Winemaker,
winemaker at Z Wines Wines. Formerly Nepenthe Wines and
in the Barossa Valley. worked in the Hunter Australian Vintage (SA
Associate judge, Valley for six years with Premiums for 11 years).
Hunter Valley wine Tyrrell’s, McGuigan Previously winemaker
show and Adelaide Wines and Petersons. at Mildara, Coonawarra
wine show. WSET Has spent five years and Glendonbrook and
level 3 and advanced in the Barossa with Rothbury in the Hunter
wine assessment Cellarmasters and now Valley.
course. Vintages in Kaesler. Completed
Hunter Valley, Sonoma, two years’ work in
Tuscany and Puligny France.
Montrachet (Burgundy).

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regional tasting

McGuigan Personal ROSÉ OTHER RED Caravan South East


Reserve Hunter Australia Durif
2 TASTED
Ridge Hunter Valley VARIETALS & 2020 ★★★★
Chardonnay 2 AWARDED A very good big soft
2018 ★★★ BLENDS wine with intense
Toasty oak sits on A couple of nice 15 TASTED crimson hue, great
top of some pleasant 9 AWARDED depth of dark inky fruits
examples of a dry
primary fruit; some and good use of oak to
pungency. $50 “lunch” wine. balance. $11.99
A mixed group
Briar Ridge Briar Ross Hill Wines of alternate Tempus Two Copper
Hill Single Vineyard Jessica Orange Rosé varietals. “Don’t be NSW Gamay
Hunter Valley 2020 ★★★1/2 2020 ★★★1/2
A refreshing drier style discouraged,” said
Chardonnay A well-made wine with
2017 ★★★ with lifted strawberry one judge. “There dark red fruits showing
Subtle peach bouquet fruit and some pretty are some good wines an attractive stalky edge.
and an elegant rose-petal-like nuances. Good tannic finish. $30
here. Compared with
seamlessly balanced $20
palate. $35 ten years ago we Tempus Two Copper
have come a long NSW Graciano
RidgeView Wines way with winemakers Tempranillo
Impressions Hunter 2020 ★★★1/2
Valley Chardonnay now having more A soft bright
2017 ★★★ Highland Heritage understanding of the commercial style with
Slightly richer style with Estate Generations different varieties and lifted confectionery
a nutty peach nose and Orange Rosé fruits and nice acid
how they should be
a long, balanced and 2020 ★★★ crunchiness. $30
creamy palate. $40 made.”
A spicy edge to the
toffee apple nose with Centennial
Caravan South East Vineyards Reserve
good depth of red fruit
Australia Petite Orange Rondinella
flavours. $22
Sirah 2020 ★★★★ Corvina
Beautiful dark crimson 2018 ★★★1/2
wine with vanilla oak Nice drinking on offer
dominating but has good here with subtle spicy
depth and intensity of red fruit fragrances and
varietal fruit to match. ripe plum flavours. $35
$11.99

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 65


WINES OF NSW

Lerida Estate Saddler's Creek Centennial CABERNET


Hilltops Tempranillo Wines Alessandro Vineyards Reserve
2019 ★★★ Reserve Mudgee Southern Highlands SAUVIGNON &
Straightforward NSW Merlot Pinot Noir
earthy style with good 2018 ★★★1/2 2019 ★★★★1/2 BLENDS
underlying dark fruit and Soft and stylish with A fuller style pinot with 14 TASTED
a spicy lift. $28 plum fruit and a hint inviting lifted aromatics 10 AWARDED
of pine needle-like of musky Turkish
Inner City character with a spicy Delight which follow
Winemakers Hilltops finish. $75 through onto the fleshy A step up in quality
Sangiovese palate that has good here with the better
2019 ★★★ Caravan South East mouthfeel. $40 wines exhibiting good
Spicy raspberry fruit Australia Merlot
varietal character.
here with a savoury 2020 ★★★
edge, plenty of acid and Vibrant purple hue, a spicy “Watch cropping
dusty tannins. $32 plum nose and a soft oaky levels,” said one
palate with underlying
judge. “There are
Centennial fruit. $11.99
Vineyards Reserve some viticultural
Central Ranges Grove Estate MC8 problems here that
Tempranillo Hilltops Merlot the winemaking had to
2019 ★★★ Cabernet Sauvignon
A ripe, savoury Barbera 2019 ★★★ overcome.”
and oaky style of A spicy fruit driven style Highland Heritage
tempranillo with pencil with delicate fragrances Tamburlaine Organic
Mt Canobolas Wines Reserve
shavings-like oak. $35 and a bright youthful Orange Pinot Noir
palate. $20 Orange Cabernet
2019 ★★★ Sauvignon
Saddler's Creek Morello cherry-like
Wines Hilltops NSW Ross Hill Wines 2016 ★★★★1/2
aromas with light cherry A generous nicely
Tempranillo Isabelle Orange characters filling the
2019 ★★★ Cabernet Franc ageing cabernet that
palate. $32 has aromas of green
An oak driven wine with Merlot 2019 ★★★
lots of toasty vanillin A lighter style with capsicum and herbs
Carillion Origins with a Christmas cake of
characters. Needs more plum fruit, green Orange Pinot Noir
time. $36 herbaceousness and a palate. Good drinking
2019 ★★★ now. $80
nettle notes. $30 Uncomplicated wine
Highland Heritage with nice array of slightly
MERLOT, Ross Hill Wines Patrono Orange tarry raspberry fruit. $35
30 Mile South East
Pinnacle Orange Pinot Noir Australia Cabernet
CABERNET Cabernet Franc 2019 ★★★★ Sauvignon
Cooks Lot Iconique 2020 ★★★★
FRANC, 2019 ★★★ Mid crimson wine with Barrique R16R17 Deep crimson wine
Youthful lightweight a subdued nose but has Unfiltered Orange
MALBEC & with strawberry and good varietal characters Pinot Noir
with youthful inky cassis
boysenberry aromas and of cherries and forest fruit bouquet and a nice
BLENDS flavours. $50 floor on the palate. $55
2019 ★★★ solid core of fruit on the
8 TASTED Some cherries on the palate. $9.99
nose and slight stalky
6 AWARDED Cooks Lot Iconique
PINOT NOIR fruit flavours with Iron Gate Estate
Barrique R16R17 crunchy acid. $50
11 TASTED Orange Pinot Noir Fenix Mudgee
These blended wines Cabernet Shiraz
9 AWARDED 2019 ★★★1/2 Cooks Lot Iconique
offered soft and easy Nice “bouncy” 2019 ★★★★
Barrique R18 Orange Raspberry aromas with
drinking. brightness of sour red Pinot Noir
A solid class showing cherry and raspberry- minty/chocolaty notes.
2019 ★★★ Some richness and
Tamburlaine Organic good varietal like fruit with crunchy Delicately lifted cherry
Wines Point65 acidity. $50 depth to the peppery red
characters from a tricky aromas with musky
Orange Malbec fruit palate. $75
variety. “The picking notes and an elegant
2018 ★★★1/2 Cooks Lot Iconique fruit palate. $50
An almost black, fruit window for this variety Barrique R16R17 Mortimer's Chestnut
bomb of a wine with Orange Pinot Noir Garth Orange
is very short so if fruit Mortimer's Chestnut
attractive blackcurrant 2018 ★★★1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon
is picked too early it Garth Orange Pinot 2018 ★★★★
fruit and some Inviting aromas Noir 2016 ★★★
spiciness. $30 can be too sour and reminiscent of stewed A serious and interesting
Stewed plum bouquet wine with great intensity
if picked too late can rhubarb with good and ripe strawberry/
varietal fruit depth to the of plums and ripe
end up with boiled licorice palate with lots berries-of-the-forest with
drier style palate. $50 of spicy oak. $36
lolly-like characters,” a eucalypt edge. $38
commented one judge.

66 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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regional tasting

Robert Stein SHIRAZ/SYRAH Carillion Pig In The House


Reserve Mudgee Expressions Hunter Cowra Shiraz
Cabernet Sauvignon BLENDS Valley Orange 2019 ★★★★★
2018 ★★★★ 8 TASTED Shiraz Pinot Noir Lovely wine almost
Old fashioned style with 2019 ★★★★ black in colour with good
7 AWARDED
varietal characters of Gamey characters depth of vibrant sweet
plums, cola and eucalypt evident on the nose from raspberry fruit and
and a good tannin Some great wines to the pinot with a meaty blackberry jam varietal
structure. $50 be had here, proving style palate and silky- characters with a dash
smooth tannins. $25 of cocoa and supportive
the addition of other
Three Jailbirds tannins. $25
South East Australia varietals added that Tempus Two Copper
Cabernet Sauvignon special something to Hunter Valley Shiraz Lerida Estate
2020 ★★★1/2 Cabernet Canberra District
support the shiraz fruit
An inky wine with 2019 ★★★★ Shiraz 2019 ★★★★★
the oak masking the and it must be noted A lifted mix of An inky wine with
youthful black fruit. Give that this isn’t always blackcurrant and aromas sitting in the
it time to settle down! the case. sarsaparilla aromas, blue fruit spectrum with
$9.99 balanced black fruit those same characters
The Great Bonza flavours and finely following through to the
Brangayne Of South East Australia textured tannins. $30 palate and seamlessly
Orange Orange Shiraz Cabernet balanced with the malty
Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ★★★★1/2 Centennial oak. $28
2018 ★★★1/2 A great young inky Vineyards Reserve Boydell's Regional
Vibrant purple hues deep purple wine with Orange Shiraz Cooks Lot Allotment Hilltops Shiraz
with lovely dark inky excellent dark fruit Viognier 8 Handpicked 2019 ★★★★1/2
fruit and nice drying characters it just needs 2018 ★★★1/2 Orange Shiraz An elegant wine.
tannins. Has structure time for the oak to tone Good fruit nose that 2019 ★★★★★ Lovely bouquet of
and balance. $38 down a little. $11.99 opens up with some A dark dense wine that raspberry, cranberry
air. Rich balanced fruit has length, power and and blueberry fruits and
Boydell's Regional Tempus Two Copper palate and supporting poise with an earthy a delicate palate tasting
Hilltops Cabernet Hunter Valley Shiraz tannins. $39 bramble fruit bouquet of blueberry tart.
Sauvignon Pinot Noir and a palate brooding “Unique and individual
2019 ★★★ 2019 ★★★★1/2 Mortimer's Jules with layers of generous style.” $25
A well-made commercial A drier mid crimson Orange Shiraz rich peppery fruit
style with earthy plum style with peppery Cabernet 2016 ★★★ flavours. $35 Iron Gate Estate
fruit and a firm tannic cherry aromas and A soft well-balanced Reserve Mudgee
finish. $25 good blending and wine with red and Lerida Estate Shiraz 2019 ★★★★
integration of the fruit black fruit aromas and Cullerin Canberra Medium bodied well
Inner City and the oak with stalky flavours. $75 Syrah 2019 ★★★★★ integrated shiraz with
Winemakers elements. $30 A lovely deep purple dense licorice/red fruit
Indenture Hilltops wine with an inky aromas and flavours
Cabernet Sauvignon Tamburlaine
SHIRAZ core. It has a brooding with lots of oak. $58
2019 ★★★ Organic Wines 2020/2019 blackberry bouquet and
Excellent red hues, a Marlowe Orange blueberry pie-like flavour Mortimer's Simon
cassis nose, nice fruit
28 TASTED profile with a sprinkling
Syrah Cabernet Gilbert Orange
flavours and a prickly 19 AWARDED of pepper notes. $38
2018 ★★★★1/2 Shiraz 2019 ★★★★
finish. $35 Deep inky wine that Compact, tight and
is rich with mulberry A very interesting Gooree Park focused with great purity
Ross Hill Wines and blackcurrant-like Mudgee Shiraz of raspberry and licorice
and diverse group of 2019 ★★★★1/2
Pinnacle Orange varietal fruit with a slight varietal characters with a
Cabernet Sauvignon wines ranging from Another big brooding nice line of acid. $60
medicinal edge and
2019 ★★★ lovely tannin length and the very cool climate wine with a huge
Soft easy drinking style structure. $120 volume of rhubarb, McGuigan Personal
regions with their
with pleasant black plum, cherry and Reserve Bainton
currant fruit and a hint of typical pepper and chocolate characters Hunter Valley Shiraz
mint. $45 spice characters to the showing a musky 2019 ★★★★
warmer regions that perfumed nuance. A A serious old-fashioned
keeper. $24 style with inviting spicy
produce great depth
red fruit nose and
and concentration. heavy oak palate but
has sweet fruit to carry
it. $80

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 67


WINES OF NSW

Trentham Estate Tempus Two McGuigan Personal Robert Stein McGuigan Cellar
Grown Murray Varietal NSW Shiraz Reserve Bainton Reserve Mudgee Select Hunter Valley
Darling Shiraz 2019 ★★★ Hunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2018 ★★★★ Shiraz 2018 ★★★
2019 ★★★1/2 Shy black fruit nose and 2017 ★★★★★ A well-made shiraz, Subdued aromas with an
Cherry cola nose with silky soft palate with A brooding whopper of “not overworked” with oak dominated palate,
delicate lavender notes simple fruit flavours. a wine that’s rich with attractive varietal fruit, good fruit and high
and an intense nicely $15 lovely dark berry fruits “pantry” spices and an tannins. $30
textured spicy plum supported by some herbal finish. $60
palate. $18 Tamburlaine Organic obvious but very classy Centennial
Wines On The oak. “Lots of like!” McGuigan Personal Vineyards Reserve
Grapevine Central enthused one judge. $80 Reserve Bainton Orange Shiraz
Ranges Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz 2018 ★★★
2019 ★★★ McGuigan Personal 2018 ★★★★ Subtle rhubarb aromas
An elegant peppery fruit Reserve Vanessa A nicely composed wine with nice blackberry
style with slightly green Vale Hunter Valley with a subdued nose flavours and slightly
tannins and “pinched” Shiraz 2017 ★★★★★ and a balance of both “prickly” acid. $34
acid. $20 Lovely colour with inky ripe and green varietal
purple hues, dark ripe flavours. $80 Saddler's Creek
Pepper Tree Limited fruit fragrances and Wines Hunter Valley
Release Orange a generous velvety RidgeView Wines NSW Shiraz
Shiraz 2019 ★★★ smooth palate that fills Impressions Hunter 2018 ★★★
Plums and cherries the mouth with flavours Valley Shiraz A nose of chocolate,
lift off the nose with a of chocolate and 2017 ★★★★ red fruit and vanilla
subtle youthful red fruit licorice. $80 Dark purple wine with with a sweet oak
palate. $35 confectionery fruit driven palate. $36
McGuigan Personal fragrances and an
Grove Estate The Reserve Vanessa intense concentration of Tempus Two Copper
Cellar Block Hilltops Vale Hunter Valley ripe fruit flavours. $60 Gundagai Shiraz
Shiraz 2019 ★★★ Shiraz 2016 ★★★
Stalky herbal aromas 2018 ★★★★1/2 McGuigan Cellar Nose is earthy, toasty
and dry herbal flavours “A great integrated Select Hunter Valley and slightly leathery with
with cedary oak. $40 package,” according to Shiraz 2017 ★★★1/2 good depth of stewed
one judge. Earthy nose Generous caramelized fruit flavours. $30
Highland Heritage McGuigan Personal with hints of raspberries aromas with an elegant
Estate Generations Reserve Vanessa and chocolate and a “slinky smooth” palate Tempus Two Copper
Orange Shiraz Vale Hunter Valley tightly coiled berry and and talc-like tannins. $30 Hunter Valley Shiraz
2019 ★★★1/2 Shiraz 2019 ★★★ chocolate palate. $80 2014 ★★★
An elegant shiraz with A serious wine with Cox Family Wines Earthy mushroom
nice core of raspberry- brambly fruit, some Mortimer's Chestnut Hilltops Shiraz character to the nose
like varietal characters herbs, spices and Garth Orange Shiraz 2018 ★★★ and a soft, pleasant,
and lightweight chocolate. $80 2018 ★★★★ Elegant plum nose savoury palate. $30
tannins. $22 Stewed plum nose and surprisingly long
and good depth of spicy fruit palate with a Briar Ridge Dairy
Mortimer's Chris SHIRAZ prune-like fruit on an peppery finish. $30 Hill Single Vineyard
Derrez Orange 2018 & OLDER uncomplicated but well- Hunter Valley Shiraz
Shiraz 2019 ★★★1/2 structured palate. $38 2014 ★★★
Nicely focused wine 23 TASTED Rich and spicy
layered with caramel, 17 AWARDED PepperGreen Estate Christmas cake of a
chocolate, pepper and Regional Collection wine that is ready for
spice-like characters. $60 Another strong class NSW Orange Shiraz drinking now! $110
2018 ★★★★
30 Mile South East of diverse styles with A pleasant easy to drink
Australia Shiraz the 2017 and 2019 wine with great length
2020 ★★★ vintages being the of black varietal fruits
A big rich tannic style
highlights. “Great
laced with licorice and STAR RATINGS ★★★★★
with sweet ripe inky black pepper. $40
varietal fruit. $9.99 to see winemakers Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of
working to create the RidgeView Wines excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.
Three Jailbirds Impressions Hunter All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry
harmonious balance
South East Australia Valley Shiraz professionals and are compared in peer
Shiraz 2020 ★★★ between oak and fruit, 2018 ★★★★ classes by three judges.
Soft oak dominated which is a credit to A well-integrated wine CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,
wine with hints of them,” said one judge. with simple sweet red a major mail-order business.
raspberry jam and berry fruits, some green CD Cellar door price.
plums. $9.99 “Very few faulty wines notes and a nice cedary CDO Cellar door only.
here.” aftertaste. $50
SO Sold out.
$N/A Price not available at time of printing.
☎ Contact information pg 88.
RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).
BEST VALUE for $20 & under.
For a complete list of what we tasted
please refer to www.winestate.com.au

68 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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WINSOR DOBBIN

MCLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK, FLEURIEU & SURROUNDS

GOOD NEWS FOR THE VALE


THE news is good for anyone planning to
visit a McLaren Vale cellar door with the
South Australian wine region experiencing
its best growing conditions in recent years
for the 2021 vintage. Picking throughout the
region started in early February with initial
reports indicating vintage 2021 is set to
exceed expectations.
Winemaker Renae Hirsch from Chalk Hill
Wines said both yield and quality were
looking exceptional, which is a relief for
local vignerons and winemakers following
a tough 2020.
“So far, it’s been an extremely great
vintage for McLaren Vale," she said. "Yields
are up on the last couple of vintages, which
which gives visitors a chance to enjoy a is pleasing. We needed a decent crop.
E N JOY A N E W TAST E O F
glass of wine or local produce platters on "The season started well with a wet winter,
BREMERTON
the veranda overlooking the lawn or sit on allowing the vines to produce a good
AWARD-WINNING and family-owned a picnic rug or bean bag,” Lucy said. canopy and a good number of bunches.
Bremerton Wines, in the Langhorne Creek Rebecca Willson explains visitors to the Favourable weather throughout summer,
wine region, have officially opened a new winery will now enter via stairs, down the being unusually cool but also quite dry,
tasting room that sits alongside their historic recycled timber arbour, through big, double allowed even ripening.
1866 barn. timber doors, to find a large, spacious and “We have revelled in the low summer
The $1 million investment into Bremerton interactive tasting room. temperatures, which have given us even,
Wines - established by the Willson family “We chose materials for the new tasting slow ripening; producing good flavours,
over 35 years ago -was built and partially room and extension that were sustainably particularly in shiraz which is vibrant, with
designed by another local family-owned sourced, recycled, and repurposed to fine tannins and lovely acid.”
Adelaide company Kennett Builders. maintain the integrity, character, and The McLaren Vale region was hit hard in
Bremerton Wines is run by the second- charm of the historic barn building, while 2020, with vintage conditions reducing the
generation winemakers Rebecca Willson also modernising the space for the future,” quantity of high-quality fruit, and Covid-19
and Lucy Willson and was the first sister-run she said. restrictions impacting cellar door sales
winery in Australia. “We used bricks from the original barn and visitation.
“We believe our new cellar door tasting to create the arbour walkway on entrance “Although the past 12 months have been
room gives visitors another reason to visit the and limestone from the original walls in the particularly challenging, we are a forward-
Langhorne Creek wine region, which has garden beds and external feature walls.” thinking community and I sense there is
eight cellar doors and is only a 45-minute Bremerton Wines plans to host ‘Lazy a real drive in the region to revel in the
drive from Adelaide or 35 minutes from the Weekend’ sessions in the new space, positive outcomes and quality wines from
South Coast,” said Lucy Willson. with live music, food trucks, and a range this vintage,” Hirsch said.
The restored barn, which has been the of beverages, so that visitors can make a Hither & Yon has become McLaren Vale’s
cellar door and tasting area for over 26 day of it. first carbon neutral certified wine brand,
years, will still be used for indoor dining, To celebrate the new space, Bremerton with co-owner Malcolm Leask saying
serving their popular lunch menu, including Wines will release new tasting experiences, climate change and sustainability have
pizzas and shared platters. including a tasting plate of fresh produce played a large part in the biodiversity
It will also continue to house the David to match the wine and special gin tastings. management of their vineyards.
Dridan OAM ‘Barrel Ends’ art collection, “We also have additional plans that we “Vintages are more difficult to predict,
and the upstairs space will showcase local look forward to unveiling later in the year, so we focus on long term soil health,
artists with the exhibitions changing every which will include exciting developments hence growing conditions like we have
six weeks. to the winery and a distillery." experienced in 2021 are very rewarding,
“Along with the tasting room, we now have See www.bremerton.com.au. it’s very balanced and happy out here,"
a beautiful outdoor area with more seating, he said.

70 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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seals; visit one of South Australia's first


Lighthouses at Cape du Couedic and see
Remarkable Rocks - large granite boulders
that balance dramatically on a cliff edge
which plunges 75 metres into the Southern
Ocean.
Transfers from Adelaide are by ferry and
coach. See www.sealink.com.au/kangaroo-
island-tours.

“We all try to do our part to improve our MORE THAN WINE
impact on the landscape – being carbon
VISITORS to Vineyard Road cellar door in
neutral is a way for us to continuously
Langhorne Creek can enjoy more than just
improve our care for the environment and
wine. As well as wine tasting visitors can
give back to our local community.”
enjoy artisan chocolates and natural olive
Oliver’s Taranga Winemaker Corrina
oil skincare products with three offerings
Wright acknowledged the optimism
under the one roof.
surrounding the 2021 vintage.
Vineyard Road Wines, Fleurieu Chocolate
“It’s really great to be blunt; shiraz is
Company and Vasse Virgin Olive Oil share
spectacular with intense flavour and
the space, and wine and chocolate pairings
delicate tannins and we are seeing average
are available. Vineyard Road is at 697
yields, not the lows of the past two years,”
Langhorne Creek Road, Belvidere, and is
she said.
open six days a week, closed Tuesdays. ADULTS ONLY ESCAPE
“Fiano and whites are coming off with
balance and natural acidity. The long, MCLAREN Vale's newest luxury micro-hotel
slow ripening this season allowed flavours MORE THAN KANGAROOS ON KI
is “adults only”, Hotel California Road, part
to develop naturally and evenly in the FALL in love with Kangaroo Island’s of the Inkwell Wines property.
vineyard and helped reduce the added wildlife and landscapes on a new two-day Set in the vineyards on a private floor, each
pressure of disease.” ‘Highlights of Kangaroo Island’ tour from 50sqm king suite has a deck, soaking tub
SeaLink. with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking
COLLECTIVE SUCCESS The tour includes gourmet-style picnic the vines, floating king bed, dual vanities
lunches with South Australian wines, all and rain showers, mini bar stocked with
NEIGHBOURS Chalk Hill Wines and
coach and ferry transfers, a choice of Inkwell wine and snacks, leather couch,
Never Never Distilling Co. have offered
standard and superior accommodation with Dolce Gusto coffee, HDTV with Yamaha
a spectacular two-fold experience of
breakfast and accommodation included. wi-fi and Bluetooth-enabled sound bar.
wine and gin. Last year, the team behind
Small groups of up to eight people get One of the suites can be converted into
McLaren Vale destination Pizzateca arrived
a personalised 4WD tour with expert a “accessible” suite (wheelchair-friendly)
at the same venue with Cucina di Strada.
commentary from the driver/guide. with a fully equipped accessible bathroom.
The trio forms the Chalk Hill Collective.
Guests get up close and personal with Rooms also have ample USB charging/
Cucina di Strada specialises in pinsas, a
kangaroos, koalas and other nocturnal power points, a desk and small table with
pizza derivative with a thick, fluffy base.
wildlife at the Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park; chairs. There is also an outdoor common
Alongside pinsas their “street food”
see sealions in their natural environment courtyard and deck for hotel guests for
offering includes mozzarella sticks, arancini,
on a guided beach walk at Seal Bay watching vineyard sunsets. Australian
meatballs, panini, cakes, gelato, coffee,
Conservation Park; and enjoy guided continental breakfasts are provided.
and charcuterie. Chalk Hill Collective is at
bush walks and beach strolls all while Special rates are available for a two-
56 Field Street, McLaren Vale.
spotting the island's beautiful wildlife in its night minimum stay when booked directly
natural habitat and watch kangaroos and but there are no kitchen or cooking
other native animals graze at Kelly Hill facilities. No pets. No smoking. Email
Conservation Park. hotel@inkwellwines.com or phone 0468
No trip to Kangaroo Island is complete 883 776.
without visiting Flinders Chase National
Previous page top right: Outdoor area at Bremerton.
Park. Discover the picturesque Admirals
Top right: Vineyard Road cellar door.
Arch and its colony of long-nosed fur Middle: Seals at Seal Bay, Kangaroo Island.
Bottom left: Exterior of Chalk Hill.

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 71


167 TASTED
120 AWARDED

M c L A R E N VA L E , L A N G H O R N E
C R E E K , F L E U R I E U & S U R RO U N D S
McLaren Vale is the yardstick for big flavoursome reds and this OTHER RED Shingleback El
Capitan McLaren
judging proved the point again. Lots of great shiraz wines across BLENDS & Vale Tempranillo
vintages and styles were here along with some consistently 2020 ★★★★
VARIETALS Bright fresh easy
good grenache wines which are also becoming the hallmark 15 TASTED drinking style that is
10 AWARDED a nice compote of
of the region. raspberries, cherries and
chocolate with a touch
A stronger flight than of mint. $25
the whites that the
judges thought showed
that reds might be
Richard Hamilton La better suited to these
OTHER WHITE Valle McLaren Vale
ROSÉ
regions.
7 TASTED
VARIETALS & Fiano 2020 ★★★1/2
Pear/citrus nose with 3 AWARDED Rusty Mutt Conejo
BLENDS a funky element. Joven McLaren Vale
9 TASTED Flavoursome fruit palate A mixed bag with Tempranillo
4 AWARDED and a firm phenolic 2019 ★★★★★
frame. $22 the better examples
Spicy blueberry
designated rosé fragrances with earthy/
Some good examples George's Folly So wines rather than herbal nuances and a fully
in this group but the Vain Jane Fleurieu textured palate with good
afterthoughts.
judges agreed there Sauvignon Gris length and depth of blue
2019 ★★★ fruit flavours laced with
were some wines that Angas & Bremer
Subtle tropical chewy tannins. $35
were more unctuous Langhorne Creek
fragrances with an
Rosé 2020 ★★★★1/2
than varietal with early interesting soft and
Pale pink wine with
layered palate. $27
picking an issue. aromas of plums and
cherries and a nicely
Rusty Mutt Catnip CHARDONNAY textured lightweight
McLaren Vale 6 TASTED palate with some berry
The Bio Project
Viognier flavours and a good juicy
1 AWARDED Tempranillo Blend
2020 ★★★★1/2 acid backbone. $20
By Shingleback
Fresh lifted and not
McLaren Vale
too oily with restrained The judges were Riot Wine Co Riot
Tempranillo Blend
floral/stonefruit nose South Australia
disappointed with this 2019 ★★★★
and a nicely textured Rosé 2019 ★★★★
group that generally Inviting minty briary/
full-bodied palate with Salmon pink hues and a
lacked varietal definition, chocolate bouquet.
flavours of peaches. pretty fruit nose with a
Good weight of fruit
Needs time. $30 however there was one creamy palate showing a
on the soft palate with
peach and citrus flavour
highlight. some grainy tannins.
Hastwell & Lightfoot profile. $8 (per can)
$25 (available at
V McLaren Vale
Beresford Classic Liquorland)
Vermentino The Bio Project Rosé
McLaren Vale
2020 ★★★★ by Shingleback
Chardonnay
Clean bright citrus McLaren Vale
2020 ★★★★
bouquet with a tropical Monastrell Rosé
Fresh and vital
tang and good line of 2020 ★★★
chardonnay with nice
tight citrus flavours on a Flinty fruit fragrances
intensity of peach and George's Folly Pigs
lightweight palate. $25 with a crisp clean
nectarine fruit with fig- Might Fly Fleurieu
palate and subtle melon
like elements and firm Montepulciano
flavours. $25 (available
acidity. $30 Nero d'Avola
at Liquorland)
2018 ★★★★1/2
Complex blue fruit
aromas on the nose with
a funky edge. Lightweight
palate with flavours of
cherries and stonefruits
and powdery tannins. $28

72 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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regional tasting

Scarpantoni GRENACHE Grounded Cru Ekhidna Wines


McLaren Vale Cru McLaren Vale Whole Bunch
Montepulciano
15 TASTED Grenache McLaren Vale
2018 ★★★★ 12 AWARDED 2018 ★★★★ Grenache
Bright red currant Good varietal definition. 2017 ★★★1/2
aromas with a light An excellent class of “A red fruit affair,” Slightly ethereal and
herbal lift and simple according to one judge. complex red and blue
flavoursome wines. Has some gamey fruits edged with dried
spicy/earthy berry fruit
flavours and chewy McLaren Vale is a complexity and silky herbs and a fine tannin
tannins. $25 favoured region for tannins. $28 spine. $45
this variety and this
Morgan Simpson Sew & Sew Contour Jericho Wines
Plan B McLaren Vale flight proves the point. McLaren Vale McLaren Vale
Mataro “Finally, winemakers Grenache Grenache 2019 ★★★
2015 ★★★1/2 are paying attention 2018 ★★★★ Slight resinous
A dense brooding cherry Nicely structured style. characters to the nose.
compote of a nose and to grenache as a Lots of oak on the nose Soft juicy palate. Good
fruit that envelopes standalone variety rather and palate with lifted acid/tannin balance. $62
the palate with great than a blender,” said cherry fruit underneath
tannins. $18 and drying tannins. $40 Jericho Wines
one judge. “This is such McLaren Vale
Richard Hamilton a great drink with juicy Watkins Family Wine Grenache 2018 ★★★
Single Vineyard balanced mid-weight Cab Mac Langhorne A berry bouquet with an
Farm Twelve Creek Grenache herbal lift. A slight green Red Knot By
fruit the feature offering
McLaren Vale 2020 ★★★1/2 edge to the palate. Juicy Shingleback
Mourvèdre youthful attraction but Simple, fresh and acidity. $62 Classified McLaren
2020 ★★★ can also age well.” youthful and bright with Vale G.S.M.
Intense inky/licorice red fruit aromas and 2020 ★★★★
bouquet with a soft Mr Riggs The flavours with a grippy GRENACHE A nose of cherries, cola
fruit palate and chewy Magnet McLaren finish. $19.99 BLENDS and violets with a super
tannins. $38 Vale Grenache soft palate showing
11 TASTED
2019 ★★★★★ Shingleback NX good weight of lifted
Angas & Bremer The “Uber fresh and GEN McLaren Vale 9 AWARDED
primary fruit. $19
Creek Langhorne vibrant,” noted one Grenache
Creek Red Blend judge. Aromas of 2020 ★★★1/2 Another strong class Pertaringa Two
(Grenache Touriga cherry, chocolate and The nose is a potpourri of Gentlemen's
with varying styles but
Malbec Graciano violets. Great palate lavender and mint with a McLaren Vale G.S.M.
Shiraz) 2019 ★★★ structure with excellent nicely structured savoury showing regionality. 2019 ★★★★
A dry red with retention of fresh fruit style of palate. $25 “With these blends it is Good example of a riper
“rustic charm” and flavours and “spot-on style that is holding up
more about the region
a suggestion of mouthfeel!” $30 Richard Hamilton well with confectionery
cranberry-like fruit Single Vineyard rather than the variety,”
fruit, cola notes and oak
characters. $20 The Old Faithful Burton's Vineyard noted one judge. tannins. $25
McLaren Vale McLaren Vale
Hastwell & Lightfoot Grenache Grenache Richard Hamilton Rusty Mutt Rocky
M McLaren Vale 2019 ★★★★★ 2020 ★★★1/2 Colton's McLaren Ox McLaren Vale
Montepulciano This wine is both Savoury plum bouquet Vale Grenache G.S.M. 2019 ★★★★
2018 ★★★ brooding and complex with a herbal lift and a Shiraz Mourvedre Estery sweet strawberry
Mulberries and plums lift and fresh and inviting. crunchy red apple palate 2019 ★★★★★ and plum fragrances, a
off the nose; warm dark Great weight of dark with crisp acidity. $38 Bright blueberry savoury style palate with
fruit/mocha flavours fill fruit characters, lovely bouquet with earthy earthy elements and
the mouth. $25 complexity, chewy Ekhidna Wines She notes and spices adding bold tannins. $35
tannins, a creamy palate Viper McLaren Vale complexity. Long,
Ekhidna Wines and even finish. $75 Grenache weighty and full-bodied Jericho Wines
Fleurieu Malbec 2017 ★★★1/2 palate with flavours of McLaren Vale G.S.M.
2017 ★★★ Oxenberry McLaren Soft full-bodied wine, red and blue fruits and 2020 ★★★1/2
Brooding briary berry Vale Grenache some bottle age violet notes. $24 Lifted lolly fruit nose
bouquet with quite a 2019 ★★★★ developing with flavours with a hint of spice.
gravelly tannic palate. Ethereal black currant of cherries, coffee and Lovely juicy sweet fruit
$29.50 nose with earthy notes walnuts. $29.50 flavours with a dash of
and an oak driven pepper. $27
palate with developing
fruit and nicely building Grounded Cru Cru
tannins. $25 McLaren Vale G.S.M.
2019 ★★★1/2
Nice weight and
complexity of red fruits,
licorice and malt with
chewy tannins and crisp
acidity. $28

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 73


M c L A R E N VA L E , L A N G H O R N E C R E E K , F L E U R I E U & S U R R O U N D S

Ekhidna Wines She Richard Hamilton Shingleback D Block Organic Hill Vine
Viper McLaren Vale Hut Block McLaren Reserve McLaren Hill McLaren Vale
Grenache Shiraz Vale Cabernet Vale Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon
2017 ★★★1/2 Sauvignon Sauvignon 2018 ★★★★
An interesting savoury/ 2018 ★★★★★ 2018 ★★★★★ Dense cassis nose but
meaty style layered with “Firm and assertive Nose is a brooding opens up nicely with
red fruits and herbs with without being complexity of briary fruit some air. Lovely fruit
developing complexity. aggressive,” said one with forest floor notes. weight and structure to
$29.50 judge. Smells of the Rich, full-bodied palate the leaner style palate.
forest floor and black with lovely persistence $35
Watkins Family fruits with a plush of minty black fruit
T
Wine Directed VBAESLUSE mixed berry fruit flavours and great
BUY
Intensity flavour profile. $24 acidity. $55
Langhorne Creek
G.S.M. 2019 ★★★ Grounded Cru
Red fruit fragrances with Cru McLaren Vale
a lavender lift. Lively Langhorne Creek
palate; balanced and Cabernet Sauvignon
rich. $19.99 Shiraz Malbec
2018 ★★★★1/2
Grounded Cru Cru Dark brooding blue
McLaren Vale G.S.M. and black fruit nose
2018 ★★★ with aged red fruits
Subtle dark fruit bouquet adding complexity. Soft Watkins Family VBAESLUTE
with a light violet note and generous in the Wine Langhorne BUYS
and developing fruit mouth with a complex Creek Cabernet
flavours. $28 spectrum of fruit Sauvignon
flavours. $28 2019 ★★★★
CABERNET & Light leafiness to the
Pertaringa Rifle & nose with minty herbal
BLENDS Hunt McLaren Vale elements and a crisp
Cabernet Sauvignon fruit palate with smooth
29 TASTED 2018 ★★★★1/2 tannins. $19.99
24 AWARDED Great varietal definition
to the nose of Pertaringa Grandeur Wellington
A very solid class blueberries, plums and Understudy McLaren Cellar Reserve
chocolate. Firm well Vale Cabernet McLaren Vale
of wines showing Shingleback Davey structured, super ripe, Cabernet Sauvignon
Sauvignon
the typical regional Estate McLaren Vale palate with dark fruit 2019 ★★★★ 2018 ★★★★
characteristics of flavour Cabernet Sauvignon flavours. $40 Earthy spicy aromas A big bold oak driven
2018 ★★★★★ laced with briary fruit cabernet with sweet
depth and strong mid-
A bold and assertive and a big tannic palate toasty characters on top
palate. “A lot less oak wine with a nose bright of the briary fruit. Will
layered with good fruit
contact now than seen with cassis fruit lifted and oak. $25 improve further. $120
in the past,” noted with violet nuances.
Silky smooth palate of Grounded Cru Tail Spin Langhorne
one judge. Excellent red fruits, malty oak and Creek Cabernet
Inc McLaren Vale
consistency with the grainy tannins. $25 Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon
top wines showing both 2019 ★★★★ 2019 ★★★1/2
A racy linear wine that More of a generic dry
varietal and regional red. Some nice red
is tight, bright and fresh
flavours. with savoury mulberry fruit characters and
characters and green good length of talc-like
herbal overtones. $45 tannins. $15

JUDGES
Shane Harris Nick Haselgrove Matt O’Leary
Winemaker for Wines by Winestate’s 2010 Australian Chief winemaker
Geoff Hardy including, K1 Winemaker of the Year. for Savitas Wines
and Handcrafted by Geoff Owner/Winemaker of in the Barossa
Hardy Wines. Has also Nick Haselgrove Wines. Valley. Formerly
completed vintages in Former chief winemaker Senior Winemaker
Queensland and Victoria. at Haselgrove Wines. A for Wolf Blass
Completed the AWRI ‘flying winemaker’ from Wines. Judge at
advanced sensory course 1993-95. Judge at Hobart the Barossa wine
and has associate judged at for 3 years and associate show. Panelist
McLaren Vale Wine Show. judge at Adelaide in 1996- at the Advanced
Winestate Winemaker of the 97. Extensive International Wine Assessment
Year in 2009, 2019 & 2020. export activities. Course.

74 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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Haselgrove Wines The Gate By Grounded Cru SHIRAZ Leconfield McLaren


Protector McLaren Shingleback Inc McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz
Vale Cabernet McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2020/2019 2019 ★★★★1/2
Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★ 24 TASTED An upfront oak driven
2019 ★★★1/2 Shiraz 2018 ★★★ A big, bold, riper wine but the bright
17 AWARDED
Pleasant aromas and Dark minty fruit chocolaty/cigar box lifted blue fruits shine
flavours of blackberries aromas and generous style of wine that needs through on the complex
and olives nicely confectionery fruit decanting. $45 No bad wines here and fleshy palate that
balanced by malty palate. Good use of oak. according to the judges. has a nice line of woody
undertones. $40 $39.95 spices. $28
SHIRAZ Great consistency
Pertaringa Tipsy Clarence Hill overall! “These are Richard Hamilton
Hill McLaren Vale Reserve McLaren
BLENDS Centurion 127-Year-
7 TASTED still finding their feet,
Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernet Old Old Vine
4 AWARDED showing great ageing
2018 ★★★1/2 Sauvignon McLaren Vale Shiraz
Earthy cassis fruit 2018 ★★★ potential,” said one 2019 ★★★★
fragrances and a lively, An oak driven wine A solid but mixed bag of judge. “The 2019 A rich, ripe and full
slightly grippy, fruit with light briary fruit vintage was a strong flavoured style of shiraz
wines with some nice
palate with a crisp underneath and bright with a generous amount
acidity. $295 acidity. $65 examples. one for the region so of dark fruit on the nose
you can drink them now and palate. $80
Grandeur Wellington Beresford Classic Shingleback Local but enjoy them with
Gen 62 McLaren McLaren Vale Heroes McLaren
Vale Shiraz some age.”
Vale Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon
Sauvignon 2018 ★★★ Grenache
2017 ★★★1/2 A big wine jam packed 2018 ★★★★
A lovely lifted varietal with flavour, pronounced A pretty and harmonious
fruit bouquet and a acidity and interesting blend of red and blue
generous briary fruit soy-like notes. $30 fruits with some malty
palate with chewy elements and licorice
tannins. $35 Ekhidna Wines Bin notes. $25
8 Fleurieu Cabernet
Red Knot By Sauvignon Angas & Bremer
Shingleback 2017 ★★★ Langhorne Creek
McLaren Vale Complex dried fig-like Shiraz Cabernet
Cabernet Sauvignon aromas with a lean cool 2019 ★★★
2019 ★★★ climate style palate. A clean, well-made, juicy
A youthful minty/red $19.95 red fruited wine with
currant nose and nice bacon-bone-like oak
palate weight with an Morgan Simpson notes. $20
even structure. $15 Row 42 McLaren
Vale Cabernet Scarpantoni School
Clarence Hill Sauvignon Block McLaren Vale
Adelaide Cabernet 2017 ★★★ Shiraz Cabernet
Sauvignon Eucalypt/peppermint Merlot 2018 ★★★
2018 ★★★ characters on the nose An attractive compote Watkins Family
EST
A soft approachable and a malty oak driven of plums, spices and Wine Langhorne VBAULUYSE
B
full-bodied wine that’s palate. $20 licorice with a bright line Creek Shiraz
Red Knot By
all-cassis fruit and classy of acid. $16 2019 ★★★★
Shingleback
oak. $18 Pertaringa Tipsy Great varietal definition
Hastwell & Classified McLaren
Hill McLaren Vale here; all cherries,
Lightfoot 38 Days Vale Shiraz
Grandeur Wellington Cabernet Sauvignon raspberries, cola and
2019 ★★★★1/2
Gen 62 McLaren 2017 ★★★ McLaren Vale Shiraz vanilla with big tannin
Cabernet Sauvignon A complex black fruit/
Vale Cabernet Confectionery fruit profile and good acidity.
2017 ★★★ malty bouquet and
Sauvignon fragrances and a $19.99
a rich palate with
2018 ★★★ chocolaty palate with a A generous,
straightforward, excellent weight and
Cigar box characters on core of red fruit. $295 Pertaringa
chocolaty wine with nicely “poised” dark
the nose with a minty Undercover McLaren
hints of date and cola fruit characters with a
lift and a ripe fruit Vale Shiraz
savoury tannin structure.
palate. $35 characters. $70 2019 ★★★★
$19
Savoury meaty/licorice
nose with similar
characters echoed on
the generous and nicely
structured palate. $25

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 75


M c L A R E N VA L E , L A N G H O R N E C R E E K , F L E U R I E U & S U R R O U N D S

Coriole Estate John Hill Organic Grounded Cru Cru Shingleback Coriole ‘Riesling
McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Unedited McLaren Block’ McLaren Vale
2019 ★★★★ 2020 ★★★ 2018 ★★★★1/2 Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2
Bright blue fruited “Still a callow youth.” A soft generous style 2018 ★★★★ Nose of blueberries
aromas with lolly notes. Lots of toasty oak with of shiraz with black A full-bodied, rounded and prunes with subtle
Generous palate with lovely shiraz fruit. Needs cherries, violets and and rich wine with blue chocolate notes. Palate
good use of oak and time! $185 rose petals lifting off fruit varietal characters is rich, fleshy and
strong tannins. $32 the nose and lots of ripe edged with herbal notes finishes sweet. $64
Haselgrove Wines fleshy fruit filling the and spicy oak. $69.95
Grounded Cru Inc First Cut McLaren mouth with flavour. $28 Paxton Vale
McLaren Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz Pertaringa Yeoman Organics McLaren
2019 ★★★★ 2019 ★★★ Sew & Sew Sashiko McLaren Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz
A bright, nicely focused Malty spicy bouquet McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 ★★★★ 2018 ★★★
and “Well thought- with a rich, generous 2018 ★★★★ Lovely, sweet dark Earthy savoury shiraz
out wine”. Generous and uncomplicated fruit Mulberry and plum- fruit richness with nice with generous dark
amount of ripe fruit driven palate. $23 like fruit here; nice weight of chocolaty oak, fruits, chewy tannins
layered with plenty of spiciness. Lovely, classy some dense tannins and and piquant acidity. $25
oak. $50 Bec Hardy McLaren oak evident on the nice line of acid. $250
Vale Shiraz palate with long chewy Scarpantoni Block 3
Red Knot By 2019 ★★★ tannins. $25 Clarence Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz
Shingleback Minty red fruit aromas Adelaide Shiraz 2018 ★★★
McLaren Vale Shiraz and rich, chewy and Shingleback Davey 2018 ★★★1/2 A lighter spicy and
2019 ★★★1/2 persistent sweet fruit Estate McLaren Vale A nicely poised and leafy style with subtle
A rich and full-bodied flavours. $40 Shiraz 2018 ★★★★ fleshy wine with good use of oak and grainy
wine with spicy briary A lovely concentration of persistence of varietal tannins. $35
and red fruit characters Haselgrove Wines blue fruits, licorice and fruit with some grainy
and big grippy tannins. The Ambassador spices on both the nose tannins. $18 Beresford Classic
$15 McLaren Vale Shiraz and palate with some McLaren Vale Shiraz
2019 ★★★ tannin length. $25 Angas & Bremer 2018 ★★★1/2
Tail Spin Langhorne A straightforward style Langhorne Creek A vibrant and austere
Creek Shiraz with “nice bones!” Has Grandeur Wellington Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2 sweet-fruited style of
2019 ★★★1/2 estery sweet fruit and Gen 69 McLaren A straightforward, shiraz with high level of
Smells of rhubarb and an oaky finish. $90 Vale Shiraz well-made wine with a acid and overt oak. $30
sour cherries with a 2018 ★★★★ generosity of black fruits
bright, spicy and touch Haselgrove Wines A nutty nose with spicy and licorice and drying
herbal, lightweight The Cruth McLaren rhubarb-like lift. Dark tannins. $25 SHIRAZ
palate. $15 Vale Shiraz brooding fruit palate, 2017 & OLDER
2019 ★★★ well-judged acidity and Haselgrove Wines
Bird's Eye View Dark brooding black good use of oak. $35 Catkin McLaren Vale
21 TASTED
McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit/licorice characters, Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2 16 AWARDED
2019 ★★★1/2 lots of oak and grainy The Gate By A dark blueberry/licorice
Dark, brooding and tannins. $150 Shingleback bouquet and soft and The judges noted that
chocolaty style with McLaren Vale Shiraz juicy in the mouth with a
2018 ★★★★ some of these wines
hints of forest floor good depth of fruit. $40
characters and long SHIRAZ 2018 Brooding briary bouquet were starting to show
lingering tannins. $16 23 TASTED layered with oak and Pertaringa Over The savoury characters.
20 AWARDED a nicely weighted, Top McLaren Vale
“The good news is that
Richard Hamilton flavoursome and fleshy Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2
Little Road McLaren varietal fruit palate. Spicy black fruit nose generally these wines
Vale Shiraz A very solid vintage with $39.95 with chocolaty nuances. have good backbones
2019 ★★★1/2 a mix of modern and Generous palate; warm, which serves them
Savoury style with, old-fashioned styles. The Grounded Cru Inc balanced and good
according to one judge, McLaren Vale Shiraz acidity. $40 well,” said one judge.
better wines showed
“All the bells and 2018 ★★★★ “These are enjoyable
whistles”. Rich red fruit both generosity and Nose is a rhubarb, black Jericho Wines drinks to have with
and classy oak. $24 balance. fruit and chocolate McLaren Vale Shiraz
food or for those who
compote of aromas with 2018 ★★★1/2
Mr Riggs Mr Ekhidna Wines 2 a plum jam palate and Subtle brooding aromas like some complex
Brightside Mates McLaren Vale crisp acid spine. $50 with beautiful layering secondary development
Preservative Free Shiraz 2018 ★★★★★ and complexity of
in their wines.”
McLaren Vale Shiraz A big, bold, meaty Clarence Hill flavours and retained
2020 ★★★ monster of a wine with Reserve McLaren freshness. $42
Light bodied with bright oaky aromas lifted by Vale Shiraz
and youthful red fruit some lovely blue fruits. 2018 ★★★★ Mr Riggs Burnt
characters layered with Firm and full in the A good varietal showing Block McLaren Vale
toasty oak. $22 mouth with briary-like structure and direction. Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2
fruit flavours. Needs Raspberries shine out Super concentration of
more time. $29.50 from the darker fruit and spicy blueberry aromas
spicy oak. $65 and a tannic palate with
crisp acidity. Time! $50

76 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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regional tasting

The Old Faithful Ekhidna Wines Bin 8 Ekhidna Wines


McLaren Vale Shiraz Fleurieu Shiraz Linchpin McLaren
2017 ★★★★★ 2017 ★★★1/2 Vale Shiraz
A dense bouquet of Red fruit bouquet with 2017 ★★★
dark fruits, cherry cola a leathery edge and a Savoury blue fruits
and licorice with a spicy lift. Elegant palate laced with woody
generous, sweet and in the savoury spectrum. spices and some
chewy palate, quite $19.95 secondary elements
savoury and showing developing. $60
good tannin profile and James Busby
integration. $75 McLaren Vale Shiraz Ekhidna Wines Back
2017 ★★★1/2 Block McLaren Vale
Ekhidna Wines She Dark brooding fruit and Shiraz 2017 ★★★
Viper McLaren Vale truffle-like aromas with Interesting fruity
Shiraz 2017 ★★★★ a dense, generous and aromatics and a
A savoury style with slightly shaded fruit flavoursome, savoury Visit our website and keep
dark fruit characters, palate. $25 and spicy rhubarb up to date with all our latest
vanilla notes, generous palate. $60 wine info, news, competitions,
chewy tannins and Grounded Cru Inc tastings and events.
some bright acidity. McLaren Vale Shiraz Grounded Cru Inc
$29.50 2017 ★★★1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz Become a subscriber to enter
Blue fruit fragrances 2016 ★★★ into our exciting regular
The Old Faithful with a violet-like floral lift A meaty style. Has soy
Café Block McLaren and a firm, weighty and sauce and beef bone competitions.
Vale Shiraz soft tannin palate. $50 characters evident with
2017 ★★★★ some plums. $50
Dark, ripe and brooding Grounded Cru Cru Follow us and keep up to
with forest floor-like McLaren Vale Shiraz Shingleback D Block date with all our latest
edge to the blue varietal 2017 ★★★ Reserve McLaren
fruit. Chewy tannins and Lolly-like aromas with a Vale Shiraz
wine info, tastings and
tart acid. $75 floral lift and nice oak on 2016 ★★★ events on facebook, twitter
the palate that supports Lots of malty chocolaty and instagram.
Pertaringa Yeoman the fruit well. $28 oak but has a lovely big
McLaren Vale Shiraz hit of blue fruits pushing
2017 ★★★★ through. $55
The blue fruit nose
Winestate Magazine
has a perfumed lift of Ekhidna Wines @WinestateEd
violets and lavender Rarified McLaren
with generous chocolaty Vale Shiraz
licorice flavours. $250 2016 ★★★
Big toasty oak nose with
Ekhidna Wines fruit still obvious on the
Rechner McLaren palate. Rich tannins.
Vale Shiraz Good acidity. $110
2016 ★★★★
A nicely ageing, complex
wine. The blue fruit nose
is a touch floral with
nice palate texture and
weight. $95

Ekhidna Wines 35
Degrees McLaren
Vale Shiraz
2014 ★★★★
A beautifully aged
Christmas cake of a
wine with loads of Grandeur Wellington
spices, chocolate Gen 69 McLaren
and rhubarb-like fruit Vale Shiraz
characters. $110 2017 ★★★
Nose has a chocolaty/
cola complexity with
sweetness running
through the fruit
palate. $45

www.winestate.com.au

May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 77


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AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND

the wine & spirit


May/June 2021 Issue 172

THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A


PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE
LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.
Winestate Publishing
ABN 56 088 226 411

In this issue...
New Releases &
Best Value Buys Under $20
193 TASTED
115 AWARDED

NEW RELEASES
As always New Release judgings throw out the great buys, the Wandering Lane PINOT GRIS/
Great Southern
good buys and the goodbyes! Luckily we don’t put in the latter Riesling 2020 ★★★★ GRIGIO
wines so you can safely buy any of these recommended wines An off-dry style with 9 TASTED
complex tropical/citrus
7 AWARDED
and enjoy. Just look at our judges comments and choose the nose and a candied lime
palate with plenty of
ones that match your palate. If you don’t know your palate yet crisp acidity. $32 Good result for
try some of these and start to build your pallet profile. Lots of this variety with
Yealands
fun on the way! Marlborough better definition and
Riesling winemaking skills on
2020 ★★★1/2 show.
A fine lemon scented
nose with a nicely Trentham
Whistling Kite weighted lime fruit
SPARKLING Riverland Sparkling
RIESLING palate with a drying
Estate The
Family Murray
6 TASTED Petit Verdot
10 TASTED finish. $16.95 NZ Darling Pinot Grigio
5 AWARDED 2017 ★★★ 8 AWARDED 2020 ★★★★1/2
Full bodied complex Taylors Estate Clare Great nose; lifted,
wine with generous Valley Riesling complex and leafy with
A solid group of clean, A strong class of
weight of spicy plum 2020 ★★★1/2 slight tropical note.
well-made and drinkable varietal characters. $45 eclectic styles ranging Reserved citrus blossom Generous weight of
sparkling wines. from the austere lime/ bouquet and luscious lemon and apple-like
mouth coating layers of varietal flavours with
FIANO citrus to the bigger
Cave De Lugny lime and lemon flavours. nicely balancing acidity.
Burgundy Cremant 5 TASTED full flavoured textured $20 $18
Rosé NV ★★★1/2 2 AWARDED wines. “There was great
Fresh raspberry depth of fruit overall,” Patrick of Taylors Estate Clare
bouquet, mouth filling Coonawarra Two Valley Pinot Gris
A couple of good noted one judge. Blocks Coonawarra
mousse and layers of 2020 ★★★★
raspberry, apple and examples with the Wrattonbully Nose smells of lemons
Knappstein Insider Riesling
floral flavours. $25 others just borderline and is zesty fresh and
Clare Valley Riesling 2020 ★★★1/2
2020 ★★★★★ juicy in the mouth
Bella Luna Victoria because of unbalanced The nose is spicy and
Great complexity here with palate showing
Prosecco 2020 ★★★ flavours due to the perfumed with aromatic an edge of fruit
for a young wine with varietal fruit flavours on
Delicate fresh citrus youthfulness of the sweetness. $20
a heady spicy lime and a viscous palate. $25
fragrances, creamy
wines but they could apple bouquet and
mousse and simple Famille Hugel
improve with some age. lovely intensity of lip- Famille Hugel
sweet flavours. Classic Alsace
smacking flavours with Classic Alsace
$18.99 France Pinot Gris
Zilzie Wines nicely balanced residual France Riesling
sweetness. $30 2017 ★★★★
Cobb’s Hill Estate Platinum Edition 2018 ★★★1/2 A powerful full-bodied
Shooting Star Adelaide Hills Fiano Toasty candied lime style with a stylish
2019 ★★★1/2 Famille Hugel Grossi bouquet and loads of
Adelaide Hills complexity of pears and
Zesty fresh citrus nose Laue Limited Alsace fresh and complex
Sparkling Rosé honeysuckle. $44
with loads of apricot and France Riesling
2020 ★★★ mouth filling fruit
2011 ★★★★★
Dainty red berry bouquet citrus flavours and a nice flavours. $42 Famille Hugel Grossi
phenolic touch. $35 A rich generous
with a floral lift and a Laue Limited Alsace
wine with controlled Singlefile Great
sweet raspberry palate. France Pinot Gris
Bella Luna Victoria development showing Southern WA
Good acid. $30
aromas of toast and 2010 ★★★★
Fiano 2020 ★★★ Riesling 2020 ★★★ Wonderful bright gold
Subtle honeyed peach honey with good toasty Perfumed nose with a
Postcards From colour, vital complexity
aromas and textured length to the palate and whiff of wisteria and a
Italy DOC Veneto to the nose and creamy
palate layered with tight mouth puckering
Prosecco 2019 ★★★ lovely delicate lemony nutty palate with some
interesting flavours. acidity. $134 palate. $25
Refreshing medium dry sweetness. $134
style with sweet apricot $18.99
and lemon fruit balanced Herbert Vineyard
by the acid. $20 Mt Gambier Pinot
Gris 2020 ★★★
Lots of interest here
with lovely layers of fruit,
toast and honey. $22

80 The W ine & Spirit INSIDER


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
wine & spirit insider tasting

Dominic Wines UMAMU Estate Dominic Wines


Henry & Lucas Margaret River Evolution South
South Australia Sauvignon Blanc Australia Sauvignon
Pinot Grigio Semillon Blanc 2020 ★★★
2020 ★★★ 2019 ★★★★1/2 A clean well-balanced
A straightforward citrus A complex spicy varietal with delicate
driven style with varietal herbaceous nose herbaceous fruit and
characters and phenolic with a lovely drive of crisp acidity. $10
notes. $16 lemon-like varietal fruit
flavours just starting to
Sabella Vineyards develop honeyed toasty
McLaren Vale Pinot notes. $28
Grigio 2020 ★★★
Spicy apple/lime
characters obvious on
both nose and palate with
a sharp acid finish. $22

SAUVIGNON
BLANC &
BLENDS
10 TASTED Hollydene Show Neil McGuigan
6 AWARDED Reserve Upper Signature Mature
Hunter Valley Release Hunter
Semillon Valley Semillon
The better wines 2019 ★★★★★ 2018 ★★★★1/2
showed strong Kiwi-like A classic Hunter Another great young
herbaceous characters semillon with candied wine with enormous
fruit and toasty potential and exhibiting
or grassy WA styles with honeyed aromas. lovely intense
a few other variations Peter Teakle Beautiful textured concentration of lemon/
Wines Estate palate and long intense citrus aromas and
thrown in. There were The Peninsulas lemon fruit flavours. flavours. $22
a couple of low alcohol, Sauvignon Blanc Great potential! $36
low flavoured wines that Peter Teakle Wines Semillon 2018 ★★★ Glamper South
White Pointer Subdued aromas with Australia Semillon
didn’t make the cut.
The Peninsulas fresh lemon curd-like Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc flavours and well- 2020 ★★★1/2
Singlefile
2020 ★★★★ integrated acid. $19 Reserved lemony
Run Free Pemberton
Zesty fresh tropical style nose with hints of
Western Australia
of sauvignon blanc that honeysuckle. Good
Sauvignon Blanc
has loads of juicy varietal SEMILLON &
2020 ★★★★1/2 palate weight and
fruit edged with herbal BLENDS flavour intensity. $18
Intense pungent
notes. $20
herbaceous/grassy 5 TASTED
varietal aromas with a Singlefile Great
Moss Brothers 4 AWARDED
fresh and punchy palate Southern WA
Moses Rock Semillon Sauvignon
that has great texture
Margaret River A couple of nice easy Blanc 2020 ★★★
and exhibits layers of
Sauvignon Blanc Punchy green pea
lovely flavours. $25 drinking blends here
2020 ★★★★ fragrances with an
A pronounced grassy with one excellent herbaceous edged
style with a big hit of straight semillon varietal grassy style palate. $25
herbaceous/capsicum
offering pleasurable
aromas and a long
refreshing palate with drinking.
tight acidity. $32

JU DG E S - DAY 1
Dave Matthews Mark Solomon Peter Lloyd
Formerly Winemaker Scientist with AWRI. General manager, Coriole
at Rosemount and Member of Technical vineyards. Has worked for wine
Group Winemaker for & Quality panel wholesalers Fine Wine Partners
Treasury Wine estates. of the Institute. as on premise manager for
Vintages in Tuscany and Completed the Melbourne CBD, followed by
California. Judged in Advanced Wine a specialist role managing the
Australia and overseas. Assessment Course museum and rare portfolio. He
Currently with Francois and Wine Show joined Coriole in 2014 as sales
Freres cooperages and Judging Course. and marketing manager and
owner winemaker of took over the GM role from his
Gargoyle Wines. father Mark in 2020.

The W ine & Spirit INSIDER


Wine 81
NEW RELEASES

OTHER WHITE Postcards From Italy Taylors Estate Knappstein Clare OTHER RED
Organic Soave Padthaway Clare Valley Chardonnay
BLENDS & 2019 ★★★ Valley Chardonnay 2020 ★★★ VARIETALS &
Nicely textured wine full 2020 ★★★★ A full bodied and very
VARIETALS of orchard fruits with a A crisp medium bodied flavoursome wine with BLENDS
8 TASTED hint of lemon. Needs wine with layers of ripe fruit and upfront 14 TASTED
7 AWARDED seafood! $20 citrus, stonefruits and oak. $22 10 AWARDED
spices and some nice
Famille Hugel Gentil balanced phenolics. Singlefile Great
A very strong class of Alsace France White $20 Southern WA Lots of drinkable
varietals and blends. Blend 2018 ★★★ Chardonnay wines here across
“Everything you An aromatic, savoury Singlefile Run Free 2020 ★★★ many varieties with
and nicely textured acid Western Australia A fresh straightforward
would expect from driven white blend. $30 Chardonnay style with good creamy general consistency.
these wines,” said one 2020 ★★★★ length of gently sweet There seems to be a
judge. “There was Fine, fresh and subtle fruit. $30 new trend in drinking
CHARDONNAY style with well-rounded
great diversity of both 15 TASTED with mid-weight wines
peach and melon fruit
varieties and regions.” 8 AWARDED showing sherbet-like ROSÉ offering an alternative
characters. $25 11 TASTED to the big blockbusters.
Briar Ridge Limited 3 AWARDED
Release Wrattonbully The judges found Worth exploring!
Viognier there were the good,
2020 ★★★★1/2 The judges were Whistling Kite
the bad and the ugly Biodynamic
A classic! Delightful lifted disappointed with this
sweet apricot aromas all represented here. Vineyard The Regent
flight. “Overall, the acid Collection Riverland
with a dash of spice. Full “Too many simple
bodied, textured palate and sugar balance was Montepulciano
wines,” said one 2020 ★★★★1/2
with intense apricot and out of whack along with
judge. “However, the A big dense wine
honeysuckle flavours. $28 general lack of flavour,”
better wines are worth with heady dark fruit
Famille said one judge. The few fragrances and a
exploring with more
Hugel Classic that did well showed menthol lift. Quite a
layered complexity and tannic palate with good
Alsace France fruit depth and good
Gewurztraminer lovely acid balance.” length of cherry fruit and
acid/sugar balance. a licorice character. $30
2016 ★★★★1/2
Still a very youthful,
Patrick of Aquarius Central
super fragrant, wine.
Coonawarra P Victoria Sangiovese
Lychees and citrus
blossom aromas and an
Series By Patrick 2020 ★★★★
Limestone Coast Small berry fruit bouquet
attractive sweet spicy
Rosé 2020 ★★★★ and a fleshy palate with
tropical fruit palate with
Fragrant raspberry and good creamy raspberry
good acid line. $42
cherry fruit aromas flavours and firm
with sweetness and tannins. $18.99
Aquarius Central Neil McGuigan acid nicely balanced on
Victoria Marsanne Signature Hunter the strawberry palate. Singlefile Great
Viognier 2019 ★★★★ Valley Chardonnay $20 Southern WA
A luscious wine that is a 2020 ★★★1/2
clever blend of varieties Tempranillo
Oak driven chardonnay
with the wine benefitting
Atkins Farm 2020 ★★★★
with ripe buttery nose Langhorne Creek
from highlights from A straightforward
and a well-rounded, Rosé 2020 ★★★
both. $18.99 medium bodied wine
fleshy and complex Pretty pale pink with spicy fruit, a
palate. $22 wine with refreshing
Famille Hugel background of oak and
strawberry fruit and racy grippy tannins. $25
Classic Alsace Yealands Reserve acidity. $16.95
France Pinot Blanc Awatere Valley
2018 ★★★1/2 22 Degree Halo
Marlborough Patrick of
Delicate honey/pear Kaleidoscope Of
Chardonnay Coonawarra Mayhem Riverland
bouquet and a light, 2020 ★★★ Mother Of Pearl
drying palate with Altus Rise Ascension Red Blend
An apricot-like bouquet
flavours in the savoury Margaret River Wrattonbully Rosé 2020 ★★★
and slightly oily palate 2020 ★★★
spectrum. $31.50 Chardonnay A soft simple dry red
with honeysuckle
2020 ★★★★★ A light strawberry and with minty black fruit
flavours. $19.95 NZ cream style with some
Zilzie Wines A beautifully complex and a savoury element.
wine that is crisp phenolics balanced by $18
Platinum Edition Zilzie Wines
and balanced with the sweetness. $20
Australia Arinto Butterfly Kiss
2020 ★★★ lovely sweetness of Bella Luna Victoria
Victoria Chardonnay
spicy peach and citrus Nero D’Avola
Full bodied wine with 2020 ★★★
a savoury nose and varietal fruit. Plenty of 2020 ★★★
Reserved peach
palate and some grippy long lingering flavours Perfumed cherry aromas
aromas and a warming
interest. $35 here. $35 and a creamy cherry fruit
palate with fresh citrus
palate with “chunky”
flavours. $20
oak. $18.99

82 The W ine & Spirit INSIDER


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
wine & spirit insider tasting

Singlefile Great Haan Estate Prestige Zilzie Wines Dominic Wines


Southern WA Malbec Barossa Valley Platinum Edition Evolution South
2020 ★★★ Merlot 2018 ★★★ Barossa Grenache Australia Pinot Noir
Big, ripe and fleshy A spicy oak style with 2019 ★★★1/2 2020 ★★★
with savoury/spicy fruit, some plum fruit showing Lots of oak here that’s Lifted stalky cranberry
chocolaty oak and firm through and sharp sitting on top of the ripe bouquet with a simple
tannins. $25 acidity. $50 plum and berry fruit with sour cherry-like palate.
some soft tannins. $35 $10
Richard Hamilton Yealands Hawke’s
Single Vineyard Bay Merlot The Wine Sellar Dominic Wines
Farm Twelve 2020 ★★★ Chocolate Box Henry & Lucas
McLaren Vale Savoury/meaty style Barossa Valley South Australia
Mourvèdre with intense dark fruit, G.S.M. 2018 ★★★ Pinot Noir
2020 ★★★ heavily toasted oak A well-made wine with 2020 ★★★
Great example of the and prominent tannins. savoury aromas and a Sweet raspberry and
variety with meaty $16.95 NZ generosity of dark fruit blackcurrant nose
earthy aromas and a firm flavours. $18 with spicy red currant
palate. $38 Taylors Estate flavours. $16
Limestone Coast Taylors Jaraman
Singlefile Small Clare Valley Merlot McLaren Vale Singlefile Run Free
Batch Field Blend 2020 ★★★ Grenache 2020 ★★★ Great Southern WA
Great Southern WA A soft fruit driven Very sweet floral lift Pinot Noir
Red Blend 2019 ★★★ style with attractive to the nose and a 2020 ★★★
Forest floor-like fragrant confectionery Richard Hamilton flavoursome and juicy Savoury oak sits over
aromas and a delicate characters. $20 Single Vineyard red berry palate. $32 attractive red cherry fruit
creamy texture to the Burton’s Vineyard with a fine coating of
lightweight palate. $29 McLaren Vale Blood Brothers tannins. $25
GRENACHE & Grenache Republic McLaren
Erin Eyes Shamrock BLENDS 2020 ★★★★ Vale Grenache Babydoll
Clare Malbec Smells of sweet cherries 2020 ★★★ Marlborough Pinot
2019 ★★★
14 TASTED Fragrant blackcurrant Noir 2020 ★★★
and chocolate with a
Heady fruit cake nose 7 AWARDED bouquet, some riper A juicy ripe fruit style
lovely juicy entry to the
and a fruit bomb of ripe plum and cherry notes to the palate and with dark berries, spices,
a palate with sappy There was a mixed palate. $38 gritty tannins. $33.25 creamy oak and supple
tannins. $30 tannins. $25.95 NZ
result here. “The best
Dominic Wines PINOT NOIR
ETON LN McLaren wines had varietal lift Henry & Lucas The Crossings
Vale Montepulciano and vineyard purity South Australia 8 TASTED Awatere Valley
2018 ★★★ Grenache Shiraz 6 AWARDED Marlborough Pinot
rather than winemaking
Deep purple wine with Tempranillo Noir 2020 ★★★
a dark fruit nose and a interference,” said 2020 ★★★1/2 A high impact wine
big grippy tannic palate. A solid line-up albeit with great richness and
one judge. “While Earthy plum and cherry
$20 nose and good drive not a spectacular one. depth. Just needs more
some lacked flavour
of varietal fruit flavours “Some of these wines time. $29.95 NZ
development relying on
MERLOT & with some smoky oak. had high impact flavours
the oak.” $16 The Crossings Wild
when elegance and Awatere Valley
BLENDS Marlborough Pinot
5 TASTED Vinos For Chinos delicacy is required
South Australia Noir 2019 ★★★
3 AWARDED along with varietal
Grenache Blackberry bouquet and
character,” explained one an earthy oak driven
2020 ★★★1/2
A mixed bag here, Pretty floral fruit lift to judge. palate with warming
the cherry/cola nose and alcohol. $44.95 NZ
from savoury styles
a nice savoury palate
to younger drink-now with a mineral edge.
options. $19

JU DG E S - DAY 2
Steve Warrick Bill Hardy Geoff Cowey
Wine marketer with Corporate oenologist for Senior oenologist with
20 years experience Accolade Wines (formerly AWRI. He has wide
in McLaren Vale, Constellation). 28 years’ vintage experience
Coonawarra, Adelaide winemaking experience in including Barossa,
Hills and Margaret places such as McLaren Sunraysia, Great
River. Extensive wine Vale, WA and France. Has Western, Coonawarra,
judging experience at judged internationally Tasmania, including
the Adelaide, Hobart (France & Japan), and been Burgundy, Priorat,
and McLaren Vale wine an associate senior judge Penedes, Martinborough.
shows. at 20+ state & regional Judge at New England
wine shows in Australia. Wine Show.

The W ine & Spirit INSIDER


Wine 83
NEW RELEASES

CABERNET & Taylors Jaraman XV Pure SEA Patrick of The Wine Sellar
Clare Valley Cabernets Coonawarra Two Chocolate Box
BLENDS Coonawarra 2020 ★★★1/2 Blocks Coonawarra Barossa Valley
30 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignon Fragrant jubey fruit Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2019 ★★★★
2018 ★★★★1/2 nose and a youthful and 2018 ★★★ Deep purple wine with
16 AWARDED
Minty chocolate aromas vibrant palate with soft Slight medicinal note creamy raspberry-like
with underlying berry tannins and balancing to the nose and sweet/ aromas and fruit cake-
A very solid class with fruit characters and a acid. $25 savoury flavours with like flavours with licorice
distinctive varietal bright, fresh, blue fruit gentle tannins. $32 notes. $18
palate with obvious Zilzie Wines
character across some mintiness and plenty of Platinum Edition Allegiance Wines Taylors Estate
different styles. “The oak. $32 McLaren Vale The Artisan Aged Limestone Coast
best here had a degree Cabernet Sauvignon Release Coonawarra Clare Valley Shiraz
Majella Coonawarra 2019 ★★★1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ★★★★
of freshness and texture Lifted sweet berry 2013 ★★★
Cabernet Sauvignon Lifted rose-like floral
with the 2018s showing 2018 ★★★★ aromas and a full bodied A lovely graceful and fragrances and an
up best across the board Subtle dark currant nose flavoursome palate; nice elegant cabernet with attractive juicy entry to
with a minty lift and a drive of sweet floral an array of red and dark the soft and very pretty
and offering great ageing
bright youthful palate fruit. $35 fruits. $40 palate. $20
potential,” noted one with lots of acid and oak
judge. “Wines ranged in the background. $35 Richard Hamilton Pertaringa
from textbook choc- Hut Block McLaren SHIRAZ & Undercover McLaren
Haan Estate Vale Cabernet BLENDS Vale Shiraz
mint/herbaceous styles Wilhelmus Barossa Sauvignon 2019 ★★★★
to the big, rich and Valley Cabernet 2018 ★★★ 2020/2019 Attractive red and dark
flavoursome with less Sauvignon Merlot Minty berry bouquet and 27 TASTED plum fruit, supporting
Cabernet Franc a palate plump with juicy oak, some exotic
varietal characters.” 18 AWARDED
Malbec Petit Verdot ripe fruit. $24 spiciness and soft
2018 ★★★★ approachable tannins.
Attractive aromas of Allegiance Wines A solid line up of wines $25
cedar, cigar box and The Foreman with well managed oak
leather with a fine, well Coonawarra Erin Eyes Stone Of
poised and elegant dark Cabernet Sauvignon across the board. “The Destiny Clare Shiraz
spicy fruit palate. $50 2020 ★★★ best showcased the Malbec 2019 ★★★★
A big wine with intense vineyard rather than the An oak driven style
Knappstein dark cherry and plum with fruit characters at
fruit, olive notes and a winemakers’ artifact,”
Enterprise Vineyard the darker end of the
Clare Valley thread of oak. $25 said one judge. spectrum and savoury
Cabernet Sauvignon tannins. $30
2018 ★★★★ Allegiance Wines The Krondorf Old Salem
A nose of blackcurrants Artisan Coonawarra Barossa Shiraz ETON LN McLaren
and cedar with a Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ★★★★★ Vale Shiraz
juicy entry to the 2020 ★★★ Bright attractive tart 2019 ★★★★
long, textured and Fragrant berry aromas and dark berry bouquet and Youthful fragrant
flavoursome palate. $53 a firm entry to the plush powerful flavours of intensity of cranberry-
dark fruit palate. $40 blackberries and plums like fruit, chewy tannic
Pertaringa Tipsy on a tightly coiled palate palate with plenty of
Hill McLaren Vale Singlefile Great with nice use of oak and fruit to support. $40
Cabernet Sauvignon Southern WA dense tannins. $34.99
2018 ★★★★ Cabernet Sauvignon Cobb’s Hill Estate
Quite a tannic and Merlot 2019 ★★★ Avon Brae Eden Shotgun Adelaide
savoury style with spicy An elegant balanced Valley Shiraz Hills Shiraz Pinot
Richard Hamilton 2019 ★★★★1/2
perfumed lift to the nose wine with dark currant- Noir 2020 ★★★1/2
Single Vineyard Hut An approachable wine
and a long lively dark like fruit, savoury oak A cherry nose with
Eleven McLaren Vale with a savoury oak nose
fruit palate. $295 and firm tannins. $25 bright spicy peppery
Cabernet Sauvignon laced with allspice notes nuances and very pretty
2019 ★★★★1/2 and rich full flavoured
Allegiance Wines Allegiance Wines delicate floral fruit
A complex nose that palate with chocolaty
The Artisan Reserve Unity Barossa Valley palate. $34
is an amalgam of blue flavours and lovely long
Aged Release Cabernet Sauvignon
berry fruit and savoury
Coonawarra 2019 ★★★ tannins. $36.50 Bec Hardy McLaren
oak with a light youthful
Cabernet Sauvignon Big, bold and ripe with a Vale Shiraz
varietal palate that has
2014 ★★★★ lift of plums and licorice The Wine Sellar Old 2019 ★★★1/2
all the ingredients! $38 Mundulla Vineyard
Fragrances reminiscent and a big impact of fruit Subtle fragrant floral
of panforte and dried flavours. $100 Limestone Coast bouquet and lovely
figs with a plush tannic Shiraz 2019 ★★★★ persistence of sweet
palate, cassis fruit and Dark briary fruit nose spicy flavours. Drinking
high acid. $60 with earthy oaky notes well now. $40
and a balanced and
flavoursome plum
palate. $8

84 The W ine & Spirit INSIDER


Erudito Mags - https://t.me/joinchat/Vy95oyHYM_IV8laT
wine & spirit insider tasting

Singlefile Run Free Singlefile Single SHIRAZ & Pertaringa Yeoman


Great Southern WA Vineyard Frankland McLaren Vale Shiraz
Shiraz 2020 ★★★ River Clement V BLENDS 2018 ★★★
Plummy aromas with Frankland River Shy licorice-like aromas
nice depth of sweet/ Great Southern 2018 & OLDER and good depth of dark
peppery fruit flavours Shiraz Grenache 16 TASTED berry fruit flavours with
and supporting oak. $25 Mataro 2019 ★★★ 5 AWARDED oak in support. $250
Fragrant raspberry nose
XV Rouge SEA with a peppery lift and Arlequin Barossa
Shiraz 2019 ★★★ nice dollop of spicy red Quite a mixed bag Valley Shiraz
Bright red fruit nose and licorice flavours. $35 here with a few nice 2017 ★★★
fragrant spicy cherry wines but far too Sweet/spicy fruit
palate with rose-like Richard Hamilton fragrances and
floral notes. $25 Single Vineyard many that had dry/ developing fruit flavours.
Ghost Hill McLaren sour fruit characters, High acid. Moderate
Erin Eyes Blarney Vale Shiraz older oak issues or oak. $20
Stone Clare Shiraz 2019 ★★★
just lacked attention to
2019 ★★★ Complex wine with Reillys RCV
Some toffee apple good concentration and detail. “Watch for oak Pressings Clare
and spicy aromas and integration of dark fruits extraction and excess Valley Shiraz
a generous silky fruit and oak. $38 2016 ★★★
fruit ripeness,” said one
pastille of a palate. $30 Firm and tannic with
Zilzie Wines Limited judge. However, the fruit at the dark savoury
Taylors Jaraman Edition McLaren wines that made the end of the spectrum.
Clare Valley Vale Shiraz grade here are worth Needs more time! $65
McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 ★★★
2019 ★★★ An oak driven wine with pursuing.
A “rugged” full flavoured attractive dark berry fruit
shiraz with plum fruit, sitting underneath. $60 Reillys Clare Valley
subtle oak and chewy Shiraz 2018 ★★★★
tannins. $32 Dark brooding bouquet
and dense, rich and STAR RATINGS ★★★★★
Altus Rise muscular palate with
Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of
Ascension Margaret firm tannins. A good
food wine. $25 excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.
River Shiraz All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry
2019 ★★★
Haan Estate Prestige professionals and are compared in peer
Subdued green edged
Barossa Valley classes by three judges.
nose, attractive and
complex red fruit Shiraz 2018 ★★★1/2 CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,
palate with sweet Plenty of fruit on the a major mail-order business.
toasty oak. $35 nose and a floral entry CD Cellar door price.
to the palate with CDO Cellar door only.
nicely retained varietal
SO Sold out.
fruit. $50
$N/A Price not available at time of printing.
☎ Contact information pg 88.
RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).
BEST VALUE for $20 & under.
For a complete list of what we tasted
please refer to www.winestate.com.au

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The W ine & Spirit INSIDER


Wine 85
BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20

Trentham Estate The Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine
Family Murray Darling Directed Intensity Langhorne Creek Langhorne Creek
Pinot Grigio 2020 Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Shiraz 2019
G.S.M. 2019
Great nose; lifted, complex and Light leafiness to the nose Great varietal definition here;
leafy with slight tropical note. Red fruit fragrances with a with minty herbal elements all cherries, raspberries, cola
Generous weight of lemon and lavender lift. Lively palate; and a crisp fruit palate with and vanilla with big tannin
apple-like varietal flavours with balanced and rich. $19.99 smooth tannins. $19.99 profile and good acidity. $19.99
nicely balancing acidity. $18
Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine
Trentham Estate Pty Ltd Phone: 0415 571 574 Phone: 0415 571 574 Phone: 0415 571 574
Phone: 03 5024 8888 Email: ben@watkins.wine Email: ben@watkins.wine Email: ben@watkins.wine
Email: info@trenthamestate.com.au
Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au

AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND

the wine & spirit Issue 172 | May/June 2021

Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without
Peter Simic E-mail: editor@winestate.com.au E-mail: editor@winestate.com.au the express permission of the publisher. Every care is
Managing Editor taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but
Lara Simic E-mail: lara@winestate.com.au Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects
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Graphic Designer WINESTATE is published six times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd.
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Tasting Coordinator This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, E-mail editor@winestate.com.au
E-mail: tasting@winestate.com.au photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any Website www.winestate.com.au

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2396 State Highway 50 ~ RD5 ~ Hastings 4175
Hawke’s Bay ~ New Zealand.
Phone: 06 879 7778 ~ Email: sales@trinityhill.com
www.trinityhill.com
Cellar Door Wine Tasting in the heart of the Gimblett Gravels,
everyone welcome. Open 7 days

an
eg
Handcrafted wines from the world-renowned

V
McLaren Vale region of South Australia.
Hustle & Vine represents a union of viniculture

y
R
IE L
and soul. N D

Email: info@hustleandvine.com.au
www.hustleandvine.com.au

For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at


The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee.

ph: 0417 451 102


email: info@charnwoodestate.com.au
www.charnwoodestate.com.au

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May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 87


contact details

BEST VALUE BUYS Thompson Estate Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard
Phone: 08 9755 6406 Hamilton
Email: office@thompsonestate.com Phone: 08 8323 8830
Trentham Estate Pty Ltd Web: www.thompsonestate.com Email: info@leconfieldwines.com
Phone: 03 5024 8888 Web: www.leconfieldwines.com *AMENDMENT*
Email: info@trenthamestate.com.au Whicher Ridge Wines/Odyssey
Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Creek Estate Periscope Management In our March April 2021
Phone: 08 9753 1394 Phone: +61 08 9757 3604 edition the Sew & Sew
Watkins Family Wine Email: wine@whicherridge.com.au Email: jacki@periscopemanagement. Sashiko McLaren Vale
Phone: 0415 571 574 Web: www.whicherridge.com.au com.au GSM 2019 was incorrectly
Email: ben@watkins.wine
referenced as a 2020
Peter Teakle Wines
MCLAREN VALE, Phone: 0412 213 136 vintage. See the correct
BEST OF THE WEST LANGHORNE CREEK, Email: wines@teakcorp.com.au review below.
FLEURIEU & SURROUNDS Web: www.peterteaklewines.com
Sew & Sew Sashiko
Below & Above Woodnibs Pty Ltd (Neil McGuigan) McLaren Vale G.S.M.
Phone: 0414 325 195 George’s Folly Phone: 0458 005 573 2019 ★★★
Email: sales@belowandabove.com.au Phone: 0423 026 972 Email: nmcguigan@avlwines.com. Aromas of sweet cherries,
Web: www.belowandabove.com.au Email: jodie@georgesfolly.com.au au flavours of boiled fruit cake
Web: www.georgesfolly.com.au
and soft tannins. $25
Brash Vineyard
Phone: 0427 042 767 Grandeur Wellington WINES OF NSW
Email: anne_chris@brashvineyard. Phone: 08 8383 0866
com.au Email: peter@gwellington.com.au
Web: www.brashvineyard.com.au Web: www.grandeurwellington. Boydell’s Wines
com.au Phone: 0417 747 454
Cape Mentelle Vineyards Email: daniel@boydells.com.au
Phone: 08 9757 0817 Shingleback Wine Web: www.boydells.com.au
Email: marketing@capementelle. Phone: 08 8323 9919
com.au Email: tastingroom@shingleback. Colmar Estate
Web: www.capementelle.com.au com.au Phone: 0419 977 270
www.capementelle.com.au/ Web: www.shingleback.com.au Email: contact@colmarestate.com.au
product/Two-Vineyards-Shiraz-2016 Web: www.colmarestate.com.au
Watkins Family Wine
Plantagenet Wines Phone: 0415 571 574 Highland Heritage (Penmara Wines)
Phone: 08 9851 3131 Email: ben@watkins.wine Phone: 0409 867 698
Email: sales@plantagenetwines.com Email: payments@daqg.com.au
Web: www.plantagenetwines.com Web: www.highlandheritageestate.
NEW RELEASES com.au
RiverBank Estate
Phone: 08 9377 1805 Robert Stein Wines
Email: wines@riverbankestate.com.au Hollydene Estate Wines Phone: 02 6373 3991
Web: www.riverbankestate.com.au Phone: 02 6576 4110 Email: info@robertstein.com.au
Email: admin@hollydeneestate.com Web: www.robertstein.com.au
Singlefile Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.hollydeneestate.com
Phone: 0409 108 166 Trentham Estate Pty Ltd
Email: jodie@singlefilewines.com Phone: 03 5024 8888
Web: www.singlefilewines.com Email: info@trenthamestate.com.au
Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au

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May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 89


after taste
ELISABETH KING

THE MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR GINGER WAVE

ANYTHING good always comes back into The spicy wine flourished and became the top five brands have a vice-like grip on the
fashion. Ginger has been used as a medicine popular throughout the British Empire as well market, accounting for 90 per cent of sector
and flavouring for food and drinks in China from Australia to Canada, South Africa, Ireland value reports IRI. Drumroll please for Brookvale
and India since 500 BC. Recommended for and the newly independent USA. Probably Union, Fat Pixie, Rusty Yak and Stone’s.
soothing digestive problems, its benefits are because of the widely held belief that ginger Licensing works both ways. Another
real not hypothetical. A few years ago, I was was a panacea against disease. In the 19th Antipodean success is Ranga Alcoholic
laid low by Bali Belly and was worried the century, ginger wine was recommended as a Ginger Beer from New Zealand. Launched
airline wouldn’t allow me to board the plane. cholera preventative, medicinal tonic and also eight years ago with a cider base, it is the
Fortunately, the hotel housekeeper where I as an aphrodisiac. A marketing “message” that best-selling ginger beer across the Ditch.
was staying brewed some fresh ginger tea modern companies can only dream about. UK-based Westons Cider signed a deal
and the simple remedy stopped the nausea By the late 20th century, Stone’s Ginger late last year to brew Ranga at its facility in
and calmed my stomach in a couple of hours. Wine was a staple around the world and Herefordshire because of its synergy with its
Such historic health benefits are also behind had to re-pitch itself to a younger generation. core business. According to Darryl Hinksman,
the upsurge in the popularity of ginger beer Angove Family Winemakers in the Riverland head of business development at Westons:
and other trending beverages like kombucha has been making Stone’s Ginger Wine “We see Ranga resonating particularly strongly
and low alcohol drinks. The ginger beer market in Australia for decades. Last year, the with younger drinkers and we expect the
is divided into alcoholic and non-alcoholic company launched Ginger Joe in cans, broadest appeal to be amongst experimental
offerings and in spite of increased demand in following the successful launch of the wine- 25- to 38-year-olds”.
key markets, including Australia, over the past based drink in bottles in 2013. Angove’s was Nothing says ginger louder than Buderim,
two years still has plenty of steam. also one of the first-to-market in Australia with the Sunshine Coast company that ranks as
According to ResearchandMarkets, the Stone’s Premium Alcoholic Ginger Beer and Australia’s largest producer of ginger. Angove’s
world’s largest market research store, global the company has enthusiastically promoted buys their ginger from the Buderim Group,
demand for both categories of the ginger beer its offerings through its digital channels and which offers its own Buderim Ginger & Vodka
market reached combined sales of US$7.5 partnerships with key influencers. and Ginger Beer and Spiced Rum with 4.5 per
billion in 2018 and are expected to generate In the UK, Halewood International intensified cent alcohol and non-alcoholic Ginger Beer &
revenues of US$10.85 billion by 2025. The US the alcoholic ginger beer boom in early 2012 Pear and other cordials.
is by far the biggest market for domestic and with the launch of Crabbie’s Alcoholic Ginger Also in Queensland, Bundaberg Brewed
imported brands, but continental Europe and Beer, which quickly became the country’s Drinks has been making Australia’s “favourite”
the Asia/Pacific region are also expected to up top-selling ale. The reason behind the success non-alcoholic ginger beer for over 50 years and
their intake of ginger beer. is clear. The product appealed to Boomer its products are sold in 60 countries. In 2018,
The big daddy of alcoholic ginger beverages drinkers with nostalgic memories of ginger wine the company signed with Pepsi to distribute its
is Stone’s Original Ginger Wine, a fortified wine and beer and younger drinkers and women products in the US. The partnership has been
made from a fermented blend of ground ginger who fueled the RDT and cider-over-ice craze. such a success that the company is currently
root and raisins. Famed as a winter warmer and A stroll down the aisles of Dan Murphy’s building a new $100 million factory in three
the fisherman’s friend or mixed with Scotch, and other major liquor retailers confirms the stages to meet the increased demand.
lemonade, bitter lemon or served over ice, popularity of alcoholic ginger beer in Australia. But flavouring something with ginger isn’t
it’s still in strong demand in Australia and its Crabbie’s has repeated its success here and always the fast-track to success. Coca-Cola
British birthplace. shelves are filled with names such as James has had some very well-publicised product
Its - ahem - roots stretch back to 1740 Squire, Hawkesbury Brewing Co, Matilda failures from New Coke, the poster child for
and the foundation of The Finsbury Distilling Bay, Matso’s, Brookvale Union from CUB and product misfires, to Tab Clear, Diet Coke Plus
Company in London. At that time the British many more. Green Tea and a series of flavoured Cokes.
capital was awash with grim streetscapes According to IBISWorld, the global industry In 2016, the titan of the soft drink world
immortalised in Hogarth’s famous print, Gin researcher, ginger beer has become one of test-marketed a limited-edition Coca-Cola
Lane. To ward off widespread drunkenness, the the fastest-expanding alcoholic beverage Ginger in Australia as a world-first. Targeted
British government passed the excise act that categories in Australia over the past two to at young adults, it was meant to disrupt the
prevented distillers selling direct to the public. three years, growing by over 80 per cent as market and attract former Coke drinkers who
The Finsbury Distilling Company pivoted, as more drinkers seek out lower alcohol offerings has strayed from the fold. Following a multi-
we now like to say, to develop a retail network and drinks with health benefits. In addition to million promotional campaign and availability
to sell their products. Joseph Stone, a grocer the major players, craft brewers have also in Coles, Woolworths, petrol and convenience
in High Holborn, was one of the company’s dived into the sector and The Welder’s Dog stores, the idea fell flat. As Coca-Cola learned
main accounts and they named their ginger Farmhouse Ginger Beer became the first of its once again, don’t tamper with a sure thing
wine after him. kind to crack the Hottest 100 list in 2018. But chasing a trend.
A huge array of popular tastings on offer this issue from Australia’s workhorse region of Inland Rivers to Sweet
Whites & Fortifieds, amazing Organic/Biodynamic wines to Cabernet & Bordeaux styles and back through to the
next issue: Adelaide Hills.

90 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021


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COVID - 19 ALERT
*Normally we would have a series of trade and consumer
tastings scheduled across Australia at major function venues
but with the current social distancing and event rules in place
this is clearly impossible.

MEMBER EVENTS It seems pointless to flag future possibilities at this stage


when we don’t know when things will return to normal or
rules will be relaxed. We regret not being able to give you
more information, particularly to those sponsors, our valued
members and supporters who love attending our events.
Stay safe and healthy and as things evolve we will keep you
updated. Event cancellations will be posted on our events
section of our website.

APRIL 2021
Wine & Gourmet Japan
21-23 April, 2021
Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo, Japan
Details at: www.wineandgourmetjapan.com

MAY 2021
Worlds Greatest Shiraz Challenge XVI
National Wine Centre, Adelaide
Event TBA.

JULY 2021
Emerging & Alternative Varietals
Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth
Event TBA.

SEPTEMBER 2021
Winestate Wine of the Year 2021 Subscriber Tasting
National Wine Centre, Adelaide
Event TBA.

NOVEMBER 2021
Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (Australia)
Adelaide Convention Centre
Date to be advised
By Invitation only (Trade Only and VIP Guests)
Event TBA.

Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (New Zealand)


Date and venue to be advised
By Invitation only (Trade Only & VIP Guests)
Event TBA.

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you will receive complimentary
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