Model Engineers' Workshop 11.2021
Model Engineers' Workshop 11.2021
Model Engineers' Workshop 11.2021
. 3
N o
INSIDE
z Make
M k an Elephant
El h t
Foot for Greater
Accuracy
z Introducing Tool
and Cutter Grinders
z Problem Solving on
a CNC Mill
Grinding Chuck
Jaws to Restore z Motor Controller
Accuracy for Mini Lathes
z Build a ‘Vice Top’
z Modifying a
Tailstock
z Theasby’s Wrinkles
COVER STORY
SUBSCRIPTIONS
UK - New, Renewals & Enquiries
Tel: 0344 243 9023 Careful What You Wish For
Email: [email protected] Last month I made the mistake of looking forward to a good downpour to test my
USA & CANADA - New, Renewals & Enquiries roof repairs! I got a couple, and real beezer of one last week. As you might expect I
Tel: (001)-866-647-9191 have tracked down a few more leaks – don’t underestimate the power of a strong
REST OF WORLD - New, Renewals & Enquiries
Tel: +44 1604 828 748 wind to blow rain between roofing sheets and up a slope, when it’s a relatively
Email: [email protected] small angle. It does appear to be sorted now, with the application of sealant and a
few rolls of flashing tape.
CURRENT AND BACK ISSUES Less welcome is the discovery that moisture is moving through the base of
Tel: 01795 662976 breeze-block walls on two sides where adjacent walls make rainwater puddle up
Website: www.mags-uk.com
and prevent any easy access. The good news is that where I have applied a thick
MODEL ENGINEERING PLANS coat of polymer/cement based waterproofer nothing has come through, but I need
Contact: www.myhobbystore.co.uk/contact to get this all around the walls. I am, however, reconciled to the potential need to
Website: www.myhobbystore.co.uk/me-plans run a dehumidifier in damp weather, something my old workshop never needed.
Of course, the real frustration is how this has all slowed down progress to a crawl
EDITORIAL
Editor: Neil Wyatt – the last thing I want to do is install wall, ceiling or floor linings and have to rip
Tel: +44 (0)1689 869 912 them up again.
Email: [email protected]
Trigger’s Guitar and the
PRODUCTION Bass of Theseus
Designer: Andrew Tompkins
Illustrator: Grahame Chambers
Some may recall that as a
Retouching: Andrew Tompkins ‘lockdown project’ I ordered
Ad Production: Andrew Tompkins an inexpensive bass guitar kit,
which really turned out to be
ADVERTISING an exercise in spray finishing
Business Development Manager: Angela Price
Email: [email protected] the wooden body. It turned
out better than expected so
MARKETING & SUBSCRIPTIONS I gradually replaced various
Subscriptions Executive: Beth Ashby-Njiiri parts, such as machine heads,
Email: [email protected] pickups, knobs, scratchplate
and other parts. Recently
MANAGEMENT
Group Advertising Manager: Rhona Bolger I obtained a wooden body
Email: [email protected] with a ‘quilted maple’ top as a
Tel: 0204 522 8221 second at a ‘knockdown price’.
Chief Executive: Owen Davies I am confounded if I can see
the claimed minor fault in it, so
I’m very happy. Having fitted
this, I realised that the only
© MyTimeMedia Ltd. 2021
parts from the original kit are
All rights reserved ISSN 0959-6909 the neck and neck mounting
The Publisher’s written consent must be obtained before any part of this publication plate, tone control, jack socket
may be reproduced in any form whatsoever, including photocopiers, and information and the screws.
retrieval systems. All reasonable care is taken in the preparation of the magazine
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loss resulting from negligence of our staff. Reliance placed upon the contents of this
magazine is at reader’s own risk. the neck and other essentials
Model Engineers’ Workshop, ISSN 0959-6909, is published monthly with for under forty quid. Now I’ll
an additional issue in August by MYTIMEMEDIA Ltd, Enterprise House, Enterprise
Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF, UK. The US annual subscription price is 52.95GBP be rebuilding a new bass on the original body… my greatest concern is, if I end
(equivalent to approximately 88USD). Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent up upgrading this one, where does it all end? And one for the philosophers -
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Air Business Ltd is acting as our mailing agent.
November 2021 3
Amadeal Ltd. Call: 020 8558 4615
www.amadeal.co.uk
Machine Tools
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SPECIFICATION: SPECIFICATION:
Model No: AMAVM25LV (MT3) Model No: AMAVM32LV (MT3)
Max. face milling capacity: 63mm Max. face milling capacity: 76mm
Table size: 700 x 180mm Table size: 840 x 210mm Amadeal Vertical Milling Machine
T-slot size: 12mm T-slot size: 14mm AMA5015
Weight: 120Kg Weight: 240Kg
SPECIFICATION:
Price: £1,354 Price: £1,870 Max. face milling capacity
With X-Axis Powerfeed - Price: £1,659 With X-Axis Powerfeed - Price: £2,081 (End milling): 20mm
Work table size: 660 x 156mm
With 3-Axis DRO - Price: £1,723 With 3-Axis DRO - Price: £2,180 Weight: 265Kg
With 3-Axis DRO + PF - Price: £2,028 With 3-Axis DRO + PF - Price: £2,610
Price: £3,894
See website for more details of these machines and many
other products including a wide range of accessories that we stock
Prices inc. VAT & Free Delivery to most mainland postcodes
www.amadeal.co.uk We Accept
SUBSCRIBE TODAY!
GET YOUR FAVOURITE
MAGAZINE FOR LESS
DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR!
See page 46 for details.
Coming up…
in our next issue Visit our
Website
In our next issue Laurie Leonard improves his workshop
drill press.
www.model-engineer.co.uk
Why not follow us on Twitter:
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Regulars
3 On the Editor’s Bench THIS MONTH’S BONUS CONTENT
The Editor got what he wished for, and wishes he hadn’t Log on to the website for extra content
40 Readers’ Tips Visit our website to access extra downloads, tutorials,
This issue we have a simple approach to indexing. examples and links.
www.model-engineer.co.uk/extracontent
45 Scribe A Line
The monthly roundup of readers’ ideas and feedback. Discussion of Duncan Webster’s version of Joe Noci’s
Electronic Lead Screw
56 On the Wire It seems a few readers have struggled to find this thread.
The latest news from the world of hobby engineering. The correct address is: https://www.model-engineer.
co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=126045
62 Readers’ Classifieds
Another crop of readers’ sale and wanted ads. Plus:
Antikythera Mechanism
Can you help solve the mystery of the holes?
November 2021 7
Tailstock Tail
A Tailstock Tail
John Cuckson makes two useful items from an auction ‘extra’.
H
ow often do you not know photo 2, and, being much stiffer than
you need a tool until you see 1 either an angle plate or a vice, it allows
it? This happened to me when keyways to be cut at the top of the bore
I won an auction lot consisting of a rather than the bottom which, I find,
splendid Italian made (and wonderfully makes inspection far easier plus it is far
named) “Paradisi” six-inch centre height more secure. A bit later, I realised the
universal dividing head that came, tailstock barrel assembly (foreground
unfortunately, with a mismatched of photo 3) was about the right height
tailstock. Unlike the familiar lathe style to serve as a standard, fixed tailstock
tailstocks, industrial quality dividing for the Reishauer dividing chuck on my
head tailstocks can usually be raised, Aciera F3 (right hand side of photo 4)
lowered and inclined in order to support which, surprisingly for such a generously
work that may be held at an angle to the tooled machine, never appeared as an
worktable, see photo 1. While I had a original item. It also turned out that
specific use for the dividing head (which I could repurpose both parts of the
is exceptionally rigid), I did not then see a tailstock without precluding their reuse
need for the tailstock. But later I realised for their original purpose.
I had two unsatisfied needs: one for each
major part of the unmatched tailstock. Making the slotting support
Its housing was the first piece to be Cincinnati dividing head tailstock in The only significant task was to machine
‘repurposed’. It made a perfect slotting original form showing vertical and one end of the base casting, along with
support for the 10-inch Alba shaper, angular adjustment
Housing used as slotting support on Alba shaper for cutting internal keyways ›
November 2021 9
3
Aciera F3 dividing chuck with Aciera dividing head tailstock showing mismatch
the area surrounding the slot for the that accompanied it. Its top face was the base of the barrel assembly that
barrel assembly, truly square to the slot bruised and there were various gouges contained the original eccentric clamp,
itself. A series of tapped holes around on the barrel and handwheel. But the to accommodate a horizontal alignment
the newly machined end of the slot, most challenging task was to devise system like that used for lathe
photo 5, was then all that was needed a means of fixing it to the milling tailstocks. Vertical alignment would
to enable workpieces to be clamped machine table such that the centre line then be assured by carefully machining
securely at right angles to the axis of the of the barrel was precisely in line with the base of the barrel assembly
slotting tool, photo 6. the centre line of the dividing chuck. I parallel to the bore and attaching it to
hoped to find a way that did not make a suitably thick plate that would then
Making the tailstock the tailstock (with what now had be attached to the milling machine
The mismatched dividing head tailstock become a slotting support) unusable table. This particular dividing head
suffered a far tougher life than the for its original purpose. The minimally tailstock was made by Cincinnati but all
almost unused 6-inch dividing head invasive approach uses the recess in industrial dividing head tailstocks above
6 7
November 2021 11
8 9
10 11
about 5-inch centre height have much was to conserve as many of the original pieces are shown in photo 9, along with
the same features. features of the Cincinnati barrel body the final trial assembly in photo 10. This
The first job was to establish a as possible, in particular the transverse time the longitudinal and transverse
preliminary datum on the base of the clamping spindle bore, while leaving tenons were installed along with
barrel body which was milled parallel to enough thickness for tenon slots and the horizontal alignment screws and
the top surface of the tailstock which counterbored securing bolts in the bushes and the whole thing tightened
itself is parallel to the axis of the barrel. baseplate. The original circular recess up. Again, using the ground bars in
Comparing the centre height of the in the barrel assembly was squared the barrel bore and dividing chuck, the
indexing chuck with that of the barrel, off and enlarged to locate two captive vertical and horizontal alignment were
photo 7, indicated the approximate threaded bushes through which grub measured as accurately as possible using
thickness of the base plate that would screws could push either side of a central a DTI and slip gauges. The assembly
be needed, for which an offcut of stop on the baseplate thereby assuring was then taken apart and the base plate
cast iron was prepared. Setting the horizontal alignment of the barrel, ground to final thickness.
preliminarily machined barrel and base photo 8. It also determined the location The final touches were to tidy up
plate on the milling machine table of a couple of short transverse tenons to the handwheel and nose lock, mill a
with accurately ground pieces of bar keep the barrel assembly perpendicular radius on the baseplate and remove
in the barrel and in the indexing chuck, to the chuck axis while the barrel was sharp edges. Photograph 11 shows the
enabled their relative heights to be adjusted laterally. The underneath of tailstock in use. I end up using this set
measured more precisely. This was the base plate needed a longitudinal up far more frequently than I anticipated
done with a surface gauge and double tenon carefully aligned with the barrel because the centre height is somewhat
checked with a dial test indicator acting bore axis as well as fixing slots to suit higher than the universal dividing head
as comparator relative to a stack of the table tee slots. All these dimensions on the Aciera F3 (as shown in photo
slip gauges. The decision could then were set out on the barrel assembly and 4) plus the Reishauer dividing chuck
be made how much material to take base plate which were then finish milled is much more robust and has a very
off the barrel assembly and how much and ground leaving about 0.005 inches secure rotary lock. It also preserves the
off the base plate to arrive at a perfect to be removed from final thickness beautiful Aciera universal dividing head
vertical alignment. The chief constraint following preliminary assembly. All the for more delicate work. ■
O
n the Model Engineer Forum, the thread Macro-photography has included some fascinating examples of 3D-images.
Many of these have been produced by Nick Farr, who has taken the image below of a scribing block.
There are two ways to view images. The intuitive way, parallel viewing – with the upper image pair, is to hold the page
at arm’s length and look at the left image with your left eye and the other with your right eye. This requires you to relax your eyes
until they form a 3D image in the middle.
The other way, crossed viewing – with the lower image pair, requires you to cross your eyes so a ‘third’ 3d image appears in the
middle. Many, but by no means all, people find this easier.
Most people find they can get one or other method to work, but some can do both and a few can’t get on with either approach.
Good luck, and many thanks to Nick for generating these images.
November 2021 13
Chuck Grinding with
a 3d Printed Jig
Adrian Rawson uses OpenScad and 3D printing to make components for
truing up a 3-jaw chuck.
1 2
Mini grinder support and chuck jaw jig in action. Chuck Jaw Jig.
H
ow many of us Myford lathe to turn something and then drill a hole in nature from fiddly to expensive and I
owners bought them second through it, the two, somehow, lacked didn’t have the necessary scrap (I mean
hand? I bought mine in the 1980s concentricity. This showed up with a stock) lying around to make anything
and according to its serial number it was fine worm which would wander in and meaningful. They did all have one thing
already twenty or so years old. But I was out of mesh with its worm gear. My in common though, and that was a mini
assured by an experienced friend that it solution was to drill the hole then cut grinder set at centre height to do the
had one careful previous owner and was the worm between centres. Basically, I work.
fairly low mileage. One advantage of lost confidence in the old 3-jaw chuck I decided that printed plastic might
buying second hand is that, more than and wondered if self-centring was some offer a solution, so I made the two
likely, it comes with a load of extras. The kind of a rough guide statement to be components shown, photo 1.
disadvantage, of course, is that you buy ignored where accuracy was required. The mini grinder mount isn’t the
it as seen, and unless you have been The chuck was set aside while I got on strongest of components, but it
apprenticed in a machine shop have with the job in-hand. threaded straight on and mounted in the
no idea what to look for. I had no idea Sometime later I was reading an article lathe’s tool holder. I held another piece
what I was doing but loved the idea of about grinding self-centring chuck jaws. of steel in the toolholder running parallel
one day making a working model of I read that they can suffer uneven wear to the grinder and fixed them together
something. Over the years I put it to and eventually require trueing up. I with a tie-wrap. This took the weight off
good use repairing stuff and making started to hope that my 3-jaw chuck just the plastic fitting.
all sorts of adaptors and fixtures, none required a bit of maintenance after fifty- The other component was inspired by
of which needed great accuracy. It was odd years of abuse. My research told a solution that involved inserting three
only in the last couple of years whilst me that grinding the jaws must be done segments of tube between the jaw’s
engaged in making fine worm gears that whilst they are gripping something, side angles leaving the gripping faces
I’ve felt there was something wrong. If and a thread in MEW revealed a few exposed. After a couple of hours I had
I used my self-centring three jaw chuck solutions to this conundrum. They varied the component shown, photo 2.
Fig.2
Fig.1
November 2021 15
Fig.3 Fig.4
I
t goes without saying that supports, can be used for basic tasks defects, that you never run a wheel
metalworking tools have a hard life such as resharpening HSS lathe tools. faster than its rated speed and that
and sooner or later they will become With a degree of skill and practice, you always use guards and eye
dull, blunt-edged or even chipped. resharpening drills and even milling protection. It is also important to make
This does not mean they should be cutters is possible ‘freehand’, but the sure the gap between tool rest and
thrown away as they can usually be results are rarely, if ever, as good as wheel is too small for the tool to be
resharpened, so one basic tool that those given by more sophisticated pulled down and jam the wheel.
should find a place in every workshop sharpening systems. The most basic of jigs can significantly
is some form of grinder for sharpening Things to watch with grinders of improve your sharpening results. The
tools. Even a basic bench grinder, as all kinds are ensuring the wheels are simplest improvement is just making a
long as it has reasonably rigid work in good condition without cracks or metal table that can be positioned close
Multigrind – a flexible sharpening system base on a recycled food processor by Mark Noel.
to the grinding wheel and angled to 3 Although the rest, photo 3, is not
achieve best results. capable of as wide a range of operations
as a full-blown tool and cutter grinder,
Drill Grinding Jigs it is able to carry out most of the
There are various types of drill grinding everyday sharpening tasks in the hobby
jig available, broadly speaking these workshop. Examples of tools it can
allow you to swing the drill point sharpen, with appropriate accessories,
past the grinding wheel so as well as include:
sharpening the cutting edges, it puts a • Lathe tools
conical relief on the drill to allow it to • End mills and slot drills
cut freely. It seems that the results users • Slitting saws
get with these drills generally depend • Flat-ended screwdrivers
on following the instructions, although
sometimes a bit of experimentation with The Quorn
angles or with the amount by which the Probably the most versatile tool and
drill tip protrudes from the jig can bring cutter grinder for hobby use is the
improvements. Quorn, although it was actually designed
by Professor Dennis Chaddock as a
Other Tools production machine, but with amateur
There are few other types of workshop Harold Hall’s grinding rest. construction in mind, photo 4. The
tool for which there is a dedicated Quorn has a vast array of possible
grinder. Exceptions being the EMG-12 of machine they are a popular choice for movements and adjustments as testified
and EMG-20 end mill grinders from building in the workshop, photo 2. by an array of ball handles which have
Arc Euro Trade, photo 1, but these been known to deter some builders.
are expensive machines suited to a Harold Hall’s Grinding Rest Some builders have added even more
jobbing workshop or people who get One of the most popular construction features to the Quorn, such as the ability
through large numbers of end mills in a articles ever published in Model to grind drills.
year. For most workshops, sharpening Engineer’s Workshop was Harold Castings for the Quorn appear to
more complex tools will require some Hall’s versatile grinding rest and its be unavailable in the UK, but can be
sort of multi-function tool and cutter accessories. This rest is based around obtained in the USA and Australia, and
grinder. There are off-the shelf T&C a small table with a guide fence that unmachined sets appear second-hand
grinders from Clarkson and Vertex, for can be set up next to a standard bench from time to time. Even if not intending
example, but more than any other type grinder. to build a Quorn, Professor Chaddock’s ›
November 2021 19
4 5
A very nice Quorn by Allen Berman of the Society of Model and A Worden Mk. 3 made from a Hemingway Kit..
Experimental Engineers.
book Building the Quorn is full of ideas kit that is a much faster build than a uses a pantograph system together
and solutions potentially of use to Quorn. Like the Quorn builders have with an assortment of jigs and holders
anyone planning to build their own come up with various modifications to present tools to an ordinary bench
grinder from scratch. and accessories that increase its grinder while constraining movement
usability and flexibility beyond that of to allow accurate sharpening, photo
The Worden the original design. 6. One of its benefits is a very quick
The Worden, photo 5, was designed setup time when changing between
as a simpler alternative to the Quorn The Acute Sharpening System different tools. The Acute system is
based around a tilting table with a The Acute system, from Eccentric available as a complete unit or as a
rotating work head. It is available from Engineering, is a departure from part-machined kit with many laser-cut
Hemingway Kits as a part-machined traditional tool and cutter grinders. It parts. ■
Demonstrating Eccentric Engineering’s Acute Sharpening System at the model Engineer Exhibition.
A Supplementary
Work Surface
Ted Joliffe makes a 1
workshop aid for those
fiddly little jobs you
wish were a bit closer.
T
his idea is useful for fiddly little
jobs where the gremlin who lives
under most of our benches is
eager to grab that irreplaceable small
screw. This can be made in an hour or
so but will get lots of use.
For me the first of these
supplementary benches came about
when I discovered that it was difficult
to see the tiny screws used in a
speedometer I was repairing during
the period when my son and I built his
kit car. Somehow the tiny screws on
the bench top seemed miles away and
I found it was much easier to work if I
made a small tray out of some off cuts
of timber and fixed this in the bench An overall view of the supplementary table mounted in the bench vice.
vice, gaining a few useful inches, and
with a rail around the edges preventing as the frame of a gas fire. The edging the pieces of old hacksaw blade while I
small screws from rolling into strip is plastic angle from one of the shape them with a diamond file.
inaccessible places, photo 1. large DIY centres (called PVCU Edge The mini vice mounted in the corner,
The current version was knocked up Lipping in the catalogues). I confess photo 2, is a useful addition (mine
in a hurry when I kept getting asked to that mine was some salvaged from a came from a stall at an M.E. Exhibition).
tighten up the frames on various lady redundant kitchen worktop. The ‘posh’ The piece held in the vice is a bit cut
friends’ glasses. I had purchased the way is to glue it to the edge of the from a broomstick, which is a good
tiny vice on a whim and put it to good board, the quick way was to use small rest for the base of the hinge when
use in my case being a “sinister” (left- oval nails, my choice. I like to work on a tightening the screws in spectacles. The
handed)). It was mounted on the left light surface so gave the MDF a coat of broomstick has a couple of flats milled
side of the device, it was later easily white paint. to give support and a good hold for
moved to the right side, as it made I screwed and glued a strip of 1 x 5⁄8 the vice. The last thing wanted is for it
working from my perching stool easier. in. Wood underneath about 2 in, in from to tilt and let the screwdriver pierce a
I have found, through a few spiked one long edge, this allows me to fix the finger or thumb.
fingers that when tightening up the top where I want it, simply by sliding it Let me stress there is no magic in
hinge screws on spectacles it is as along the large vice jaws. When I later the sizes quoted, they were what I
well to have somewhere firm to rest started light filing operations, I found had to hand, and the job can within
the underside of the hinge, hence the that the support allowed too much reason be any size to suit your work. A
little device shown in the vice, an off flexibility (the top wobbled), so I added friend who has seen the thing in action
cut from a broom handle with a couple a couple of lengths of the same timber made one half as big again for his work
of flats milled on the bottom to sit it to form a shallow H section. For speed I on electronic bits, I have since made
in the voce, very useful, and helps to screwed and glued the pieces, ands this another for use in the woodwork shop,
save the screwdriver slipping off and serves me well. Purists may feel that my retreat when the weather is too
bearing into the fleshy part of a thumb glue and dowels would be a better job. inclement to venture up the garden to
of finger. Currently I am engaged in making 1 the metal shop.
in to 1 ft. scale swords and arrows (I
Making the device haven’t yet tackled the longbow), for Caution
This is so simple it needs little use with the miniature siege train I am I stress that this is only intended for light
description. The base of mine was a building after the style of da Vinci, and work, and for holding parts of work in
piece of MDF, 14 x 7 inches, started life the new surface is excellent to hold progress, it is not rigid enough for heavy ›
November 2021 21
2
bashing with a hammer or carrying large (largely formic acid and great for the work held closer to the eye in the
loads. But when you have to strip small removing lime scale - watch it bubble) is mini vice.
parts such as lubricators or injectors it usually enough to clean a small part, I It also comes in handy when I have a
is reassuring to know that all is in a safe upend these over a plastic tea strainer job spread over the bench top and need
place. Incidentally I keep a few old ‘one so the parts are trapped ready for another surface for a more urgent task -
portion’ jam jars for use when working final drying or washing as required. often the boss’s glasses.
on parts which need cleaning, one of I have when pressed made a new Enjoy!! ■
these half full of lighter fluid, white hinge for a pair of glasses and find it
spirit or in the case of injectors “Kilrock” a boon when filing them up to have
Making an
Instrument Vice
John Fawcett details 1
his re-making of a vice,
originally made 45
years ago.
I
nspired by the commercial Eclipse
vice I made my original vice, photos
1 and 2, over 45 years ago before
I left my job in engineering and went
self-employed. Realising a small
instrument vice of this type would be
particularly useful in my new venture,
with my boss’s permission I made
the vice working after normal hours.
An easy task having the run of a full
machine shop, but it was made as a
working tool and not to look pretty!
The vice has been in everyday use
ever since but became a “prisoner”
in the company workshop even after
I retired! I missed the vice on many
occasions so decided to make another Original vice LHS
and here is the story - I hope you enjoy
my ramblings. adhered to. Some general machining. I The Jaws Item 1, fig. 1.
There is no particular order in which will not dwell on in any detail such as I chose to machine the jaws first, one
any of the components need to be squaring up the ends of the material of the main reasons being that if need
made, there are however in some cases on the mill, a simple task that needs no be you can make guide rods to suit the
a sequence of operations that are best explanation. holes, if done correctly then standard
round stock should be fine for these. The
2 material I used was Gauge Plate, ground
flat stock or 01 tool steel, available
ground all round to 1” x 3⁄4” I had some
already but its widely available, This
could be substituted with any suitable
steel that can be hardened say EN9 but
gauge plate is easy to source, very stable
during heat treatment and will give a
long service life.
First cut the material to length plus a
small finishing allowance, set up in the
mill and square the ends of both jaws.
Next is to drill and ream the three holes
for the two guide bars and the operating
screw. These must be machined in a
stack to ensure positional accuracy. I did
this on our Bridgeport because the 4”
vice on my Emco was not deep enough
- the Bridgeport resides in a larger
workshop at my sons house much too
large to fit in my shop, photos 3 and 4.
It’s important to clock the vice true to
the X axis, also note the slip of paper or
Original Vice Closeup LHS very thin card between the moving vice ›
November 2021 25
0.750 1.0
0.100
0.200
Ream Ø1/8
Ream Ø3/8
3/8 BSF
30°
0.700
Flat
2.0
0.550
26 www.model-engineer.co.uk
2.750
Ø1/2
Ream
2 5/8
Guide Bars
0.500
1 off each:
Ø1/4
Ø1/2
Ø7/16 x 3.0 long
Drill & tap 3/16 BSF
Item 1
Ø1/4
1/2
Ream
3/16 BSF
Ream Ø7/16
3/8 BSF
3/8 BSF
Ø5/8
1/8 x 1/16 deep Ø5/8
Ream Ø7/16
13° 3/8 +0.005
-0
3.0
3.500 Item 3
Item 2
Ø1/4
Ø3/16
Ø3/8
Ø5/8
Ø7/8
Ø3/5
Ream
45° chamfer
1 1/4
Ø3/16
2 1/2
Item 6 Ream Ø7/16 5/16
3/8 BSF
3 off
7/8 1 7/8
Item 4 Item 5
3 4
jaw and the work pieces, this takes up reaming to 3⁄8” so drill 23⁄64” making sure orientation of the jaws so that you can
any tiny dimensional difference between you are through the full depth of the keep them correct as progress is made.
the two embryo jaws and ensures they jaw by plus approximately 0.050” then I used a small centre pop mark in each
are gripped so not to move during ream 3⁄8” the extra 0.050” allows a small jaw on the outer corner that will be
machining. clearance for the start of the thread and machined away to form the 30 degree
Make sure you stack the front shorter ensures you can ream through the full chamfer on the top of the jaws.
jaw on the top for this operation depth required, the other two holes are Next operation is to drill and tap
because the top hole for the operating straight drill and ream through both the holes for the grub screws that
screw you need to drill through with jaws, 1 x 1⁄2” and 1 x 1⁄4”. lock the guide bars and the mounting
the tapping drill size for 3⁄8” BSF [or Do not tap the thread at this point bar together with the 7⁄16” hole in
your chosen thread if you want to through the reamed hole — the tap will the bottom of the longer jaw for the
go metric]. Notice in the photos my be slightly large on the O/D and will thus mounting bar and drill & ream the 1⁄8”
deliberate mistake here! I stacked them leave a “thread” in the reamed hole - tap hole for the dowel pin that holds the
the wrong way and had to do a mod the thread after separating the jaws but vice spindle in place. A simple operation
to rectify my mistake later but that’s do make sure the thread is square to the using co-ordinate positioning for the
another story, more later. Next open jaw in both planes. holes, photos 5 and 6.
up the top shorter jaw to the size for Another point is to mark the First you need to make a slave pin to
5 6
November 2021 27
insert in the top 3⁄8” hole for the vice 7 of the V’s with a height gauge then with
feed screw so the 1⁄8” dowel hole can the jaw set in a V block in the milling
be drilled & reamed true. I used BMS vice, photo 8. I “picked up” the line
for this and faced it off carefully to be with my cutter just kissing the work
exactly the same length as the jaw then with the cutter clear of the work
thickness, photo 7. I then clamp the lowered the head and moved the table
short front moving jaw in the machine to the drawing dimensions and cut the
vice with a slip of thin card to make vertical V. The horizontal V was done
sure the slave pin does not move and similarly but using a 45-degree setting
use whatever method you wish to pick gauge it was held in the vice in a similar
up the end of the work piece. I used a manner to photo 9.
dowel and a slip gauge - 1⁄4” dowel plus All that remains is to machine the top
0.125” slip means the spindle centre is clearance chamfer at 30 degrees on the
0.250” from the edge of the work. Use top of each jaw, photos 10 and 11, note
coordinates to move to the positions the standard angular setting gauge used
required to make the holes as per to position the work piece. The finished
drawing. I used 3/16 BSF grub screws jaws were later heat treated, photo 12.
because I have masses of them. I was
a little lazy here using a dowel in my The Feed Screw Item 2
chuck rather than in a collet but I know I would suggest this is made from
my chuck runs very true and more than something tougher and more wear
good enough in this instance — not resistant than mild steel. I used EN24T
looking for tenths here! Outer Jaw all holes D & T or Reamed because I use this regularly and have it
Drilling and reaming the 7⁄16” hole in “in stock”. It is a straight forward turning
the bottom of the long fixed jaw plus the fixed jaw. Two reasons, one if and threading operation. I used a collet
the tapped hole for the locking screw to both jaws are machined the V’s must chuck and supported the job with a
drawing is a straight forward operation align precisely, not too difficult but no running centre, the thread was cut with
needing no further explanation. problem if there is only one groove. a Coventry die box but you could use an
Next to machine are the V grooves The second more important reason is ordinary die providing it’s in a tailstock
at 90 degrees to each other, you may with only one V you can grip smaller die holder to ensure the thread is true,
notice in my original vice I made grooves diameters and no detriment for larger photos 13 and 14. It is also necessary
in both jaws but on this one only in diameters. I simply marked the positions to make the hemispherical 1⁄8” x 1⁄16”
8 9
10 11
12
deep groove for the retaining dowel sides but I left this until all the other use a letter F [0.257”] drill, assuming
positioned as per drawing but see the turning jobs were done because there Item 6 the tommy bar is made from 1⁄4”
mod later for the thrust washer. are several cross-drilling operations diameter material.
The hole for the vice handle needs to to do. The hole does however need to
be cross drilled and chamfered on both be a clearance size for the handle so zTo be continued
13 14
November 2021 29
Alibre Atom
I
find the best way to approach
designing any object in Alibre is Fig.1
to think through the sequence of
creating the part, at least in outline,
before I start. The most important step
is identifying the ruling dimensions –
those which set the proportions for
everything else. For example, this might
be the mounting points for a motor,
the separation distance of two gears
or the size of some other part. When
making ‘scale’ models from limited
information it’s best to choose a large,
well documented dimension to minimise
errors when you are ‘filling the gaps’. It
is also worth having a clear idea of how
you will make the part. If parts are to
be machined, you may take a different
approach for milled or turned parts.
A turned part could be designed as a
series of cylinders, or as a shape rotated
around an axis; neither is the ‘right’ This single-sided pattern for a locomotive wheel is designed flat on a plane, with a draft
approach, but one may be better than angle on all its vertical surfaces.
the other for any given part.
It’s important to think about tool If designing for 3D printing, you must on the mould, fig. 1.
access as it is easy to design parts that remain aware of the need to minimise Like a building, its best to start from
are impossible to machine because of support and of the preferred orientation a firm foundation. In Alibre this means
poor access or difficulties in mounting of the final print, but with care you can choosing a base plane that is not just
parts. On the positive side, a program create nested shapes that would be convenient for setting up the initial
like Alibre helps you think about jigs and impossible to machine. steps but will also make it easy to place
fixtures, for example planning a special If a casting is the final aim, you need further planes or axes for later parts or
steady, mandrel or locating fixture to think about both how the pattern will assemblies, fig. 2. It’s easy to assume a
alongside the part. be made and allow for things like draft top-down view, or even a ground plan is
best but often other views are better.
Fig.2 Many spindle-shaped objects,
especially lathe turned parts or even
spacecraft have an obvious main section
and are made up of cylindrical or conical
sections with clear discontinuities. One
of these discontinuities often offers a
useful reference plane to start from.
They are often easier to build as a series
of stacked extrusions than by rotating
an outline.
Spindles with more complex shapes,
like a candlestick, are better drawn as
a half-section and created by rotating
it around an axis. Be aware that the
section must be accurately drawn along
the axis (use the snap tools) as if there is
a gap it will have a central hole, and if it
One angled blade for this simple propellor was designed on the highlighted plane, then overlaps the rotate process will fail.
copied around an axis. For irregular flowing shapes like a ›
November 2021 31
Fig.3
The fuselage of this proposed WW2 jet has a complex, near-eliptical cross sections. After sketching each cross section on a separate
plane, the smooth final shape was created by lofting.
aircraft or boat hulk, a good place to tools for drawing sketches include Sketches can be as complex as you
start is a cross section. Further cross various shapes and line-drawing tools, like, but if they are to be used for a boss
sections can be added fore and aft and as will as a text tool. A whole range of or a cut they need to be ‘closed’ – that
joined using lofting, fig. 3. I can’t get ‘constraints’ can be used to manage the is made up only of continuous, non-
lofting from a shape (e.g. an ellipse) relationships between the elements of a crossing lines. Sketches to be used as
to a point to work – my work-around sketch (and any guidelines or even other a path or guideline do not need to be
is to use a tiny ellipse as the ‘point’. sketches). One thing that confused me closed, although the system will give
Additional parts like superstructure and at first is that the rectangle tool only you a warning. If your shape appears
wings are often symmetrical and easy to creates ‘unrotated’ shapes. An angled closed but has errors, a ‘helper’ pops
add from the central plane. rectangle is created by drawing four up when you try to close the sketch.
The basic units of Alibre Atom 3D lines – if you place these carefully the Clicking on this identifies where the
are sketches, parts, assemblies and system automatically offers you ‘snaps’ errors are and you can zoom in and
drawings: to make the corners right angles and the correct them.
The fundamental unit is the ‘part’ opposite sides equal. It’s fast, easy and
which can be saved as a .part file. Parts intuitive once you have done it a couple Bosses
are exactly what they sound like, each of times. Sketches are drawn in 2D, but Alibre
one is a discrete object. ‘Sketches’ are a
subdivision of parts; the simplest part Fig.4
might be a single ‘sketch’, but most
parts are many sketches combined with
various operations to make them 3D and
modify their shapes.
Two or more parts can be combined
into an ‘assembly’. Both parts and
assemblies can be used to create 2D
‘drawings’.
Sketches
A typical sketch is a 2D drawing that is
then developed into 3D as a ‘boss’ or
‘cut’. A typical part will have multiple
sketches, each created on a plane or a
face of an existing boss. They may be
modified by mirroring or patterning
and applying fillets and chamfers. The This housing for a cooled camera includes voids and holes created by extruding cuts.
November 2021 33
for strength, the stepped polygon was
extruded using ‘revolve boss’ along the Fig.7
Z axis. This is why it was important to
centre the initial part on the XY plane,
otherwise we would have had to use
that initial cylindrical extrusion to place a
new axis to rotate around.
The final parts are the four stabilising
‘fins’. Either of the YZ or XZ planes
could be used to draw a section of one
fin, which was then extruded using the
‘mid plane’ setting which ensure it is not
offset to one side. Finally, the Circular
Pattern tool was used to place four fins
evenly spaced around the X-axis.
Incidentally, as the steps on the baffle
needed to be sharp and to avoid the
need to use support material, the baffle
was printed large end up. Exported as an
STL file, its natural orientation was large
end down, but it was easy to rotate it
180 degrees in the slicing program.
Fillets and Chamfers This tyre uses rotated patterns to create a tread, to be 3D printed using TPU.
These are hopefully self explanatory,
with fillets being curved and chamfers a part and add the fillets and chamfers operations – any group of items from
being flat. They can be applied to an edge as a final stage to tidy it up. A great earlier in the in the history.
– adapting automatically to inside and tip is that very large fillets can be used When in sketch mode you can mirror
outside corners, or to a surface, in which transform blocky, functional designs into or use linear and circular patterns, but
case the programs tries to apply them much more elegant ones, fig. 6. they work in a different way. Rather
all around its perimeter. Alibre does an than going in the history, they create
excellent job of blending them together, Mirrors and Patterns new instances of the features mirrored
even if they have different sizes (you Mirrors and patterns are fairly self- or patterned and the action is ‘forgotten’.
can even create asymmetrical fillets and explanatory operations that allow you This can be both helpful and irritating!
chamfers). They do sometimes fail if the to rapidly create copies of sketches to You can create a grid pattern of holes in
target is too small; for example, a 5mm make more complex parts, fig 7. For a sketch and then delete any holes you
radius fillet on both sides of a 10mm example, you can create one rivet head don’t want. But if you want to change
wide bar will not always work. I suspect and then just use a pattern to create the spacing of the pattern, you have to
this is when a rounding error means a grid or circle of rivets. Selectively either move each hole individually or use
the bar is really infinitesimally smaller mirroring sketches and helps when the undo button and start again. This is
than 10mm. In such cases using 4.99mm making partially symmetrical parts. Note because the history works at the parts
solves the problem! that you can mirror a cut or a pattern or level, not at sketches level.
If find that, generally, it’s best to design even a whole sequence of sketches and
Shell
Shell is a really handy facility for making
Fig.8
relatively delicate objects. Readers
familiar with 3D printing may know the
‘spiralise’ option that turns a solid object
into an open-topped ‘vase’. The problem
with this is that the resulting objects
have a single layer thickness and are
very fragile.
The ‘shell’ command is more flexible
as rather than just removing the ‘top’
of a part it can be used to remove any
one or more faces and you can also set
the thickness of the shell to be left. A
simple example of how this can work is
to create a boat hull:
• Create a series of planes representing
the hull sections.
• Draw the hull sections on the planes.
• Use the ‘loft’ command to join the
By ‘building’ these clips directly on the main part their notches perfectly match the sections into a 3D shape.
angles at each end. • Use the shell command to remove the
Fig.9
A complex assembly for a model ‘spacecraft’ made of eleven parts, each comprising multiple sketches.
top surface leaving an outer hull of printing large unsupported surfaces. another sketch and you reverse their
appropriate thickness. order or delete the earlier sketch, then
Naturally you could use sketches to The History the dimensions will remain, but the
add various additional elements, such as The biggest step up in my productivity dependency will be broken. This may
a propeller tunnel, before carrying out came with using Alibre’s history feature. not have an immediate effect but may
the shell command. The drawing window includes a list of all cause problems later, as if it creates an
Finally, if you run shell without the sketches, extrusions, cuts, patterns, undefined sketch you may not be able to
specifying any faces, it simply makes the planes and axes you have used – in extrude or cut it. The moral is to try not
part hollow, if you set a relatively thick order. It’s possible to delete (or suppress) to change the order of parts if you can
shell this is an easy way to make large, any of these or re-order them. avoid it, or to take care when doing so.
light 3D prints with reasonable strength, You need to be aware that if a On the other hand, it doesn’t seem
but do bear in mind the difficulty of sketch depends on dimensions from to cause problems if you go back in the
November 2021 35
history to create sketches at an earlier
point, although these will be affected by 2
any later cuts or extrusions.
Reordering can be very useful, for
example you may have added a part and
later realise that it is blanking off a fixing
hole. Usually you can just move the
fixing hole to a later point in the history,
so it goes through all parts.
You can always use the ‘suppress’
option to hide a sketch or operation
and observe the consequences or just
to get a better view of the area you are
working on. I also find that temporarily
hiding operations like knurling or
threading can speed up the rendering of
a complex part.
Parametric 3D
Because Alibre is parametric, a handy
feature that often goes unnoticed by
beginners is the ability to use formulas
and constraints to control dimensions. Closeup of an equatorial platform showing a ‘sector’ with a complex geometry.
For example, you can make the diameter
of a cap equal to the diameter of spigot The alternative approach of ‘in my head’ but there is always the
plus a small allowance. If you later make making each part separately, then need to adjust the proportions to make
the spigot larger, the cap will resize and ‘assembling’ them can be used, but the best use of stock materials, check
keep the same fit. Similarly, careful use of this is much more likely to lead to clearances and just be sure that thinner
constraints to keep the important parts errors or the need for adjustments. sections and the like will have adequate
of a drawing in the right relationships is That said, if making a complex model, strength without being clumsy.
a powerful approach. It can be tricky to fig. 8 and photo 1, you will probably I find that 3D CAD of any kind and
get right, but an advanced example could use a mixture of both approaches as Alibre in particular lends itself to this
be a design for a lathe, where you might repeated parts like fixings or wheels kind of ‘sketching’ with no need to
change the between centres distance are likely to be designed separately elaborate a fully finished design. For
and centre height so the headstock and brought into the assembly. example:
and tailstock change in proportion but • Gears can be represented by discs
keeping all the parts in alignment. Producing 2D drawings whose diameter is the PCD of the
One of the nice features of Alibre gear.
Assemblies is that it can produce 2D drawings • Trignometrical challenges can
Assemblies are a powerful aspect of automatically from your 3D parts. often be solved most easily using
Alibre. You create a new assembly This can be a little tricky at first, as overlapping circles rather than by
around an existing part. You then have it is not always obvious which views trying to juggle lines.
the option of creating new parts using you are selecting in the ‘chooser’, • Sometimes carefully placed and
the existing part as a base. For example, but you can always select more angled planes or axes are more useful
in fig. 8. you can see a curved sector views than you need and delete the than guidelines when trying to work
that has two clips at each end. You can unwanted ones. Dimensioning your out the placement of parts in three
use the surfaces of the base part as drawing is simple. Choose a line or dimensions.
guides for aligning the new part. The circle and pull out from it to place a A good example of the last point
clips were ‘built’ on the flat ends of the length or radius. Choose two points to was when I was designing a sector of
sector, and using constraints allowed dimension between them – if they are a cone to move across a roller, photo
the slits to be exactly tangential to the not aligned vertically or horizontally 2 – an evolution of the part in fig. 7.
ends of the curves. moving the cursor swaps between the Traditionally this would either be a
The example of a lathe mentioned perpendicular and direct distance. circular section on an angled roller, or a
above would clearly be best be done Text notes can be placed simply by thin elliptical section that would move
using ‘assemblies’, where the starting clicking with the note tool, this seems back and forth across a horizontal roller.
point would probably be the lathe bed. to be the best way to fill most text By drawing the construction in Alibre
The headstock would be a part created boxes although a right click and edit I was able to make a conic section (a
on the bed, and the spindle made to fit allows you to enter data for the main hyperbolic curve) in three dimensions,
the headstock. The tailstock would also field (drawn by, date etc.) so it operated on a horizontal roller
fit the bed but would take its centre without moving back and forth.
height from the headstock. The same A 3D Sketchbook Exporting to an STL also enabled me
approach would be taken with each Before using 3D CAD of any kind, I often to 3D print the sector that would
subsequent part, so that assembling used the back-of-an envelope (or dog- otherwise have required a complex jig
the design would mirror the making of eared A4 pad) approach to setting out my two feet wide and high to machine in
the full size object. assemblies. I usually have the final design wood or metal. ■
M
ost DTIs have a ball-ended
probe which makes it very
difficult to locate the high-
point of a convex surface. What it
really needs is a probe with a flat end.
Photograph 1 shows my DTI, which
I have mounted on quick-change tool
holder. The ball ended probe unscrews
and can be replaced by a flat-ended
probe called an elephant foot.
Photograph 2 shows the DTI with the
new foot, with the ball ended probe
in the background. This mini project
shows how I made the elephant foot.
The first job was to carefully
measure the salient dimensions of
the ball-ended probe. In my case, DTI with standard tip.
the screw thread was 6BA, but I
suspect that most modern DTIs use that I found in the scrap box, but it’s I decided to knurl the rim of new
an M3 thread. I decided make mine certainly not critical. Based on that I foot (it’s certainly not necessary, but it
from a piece of 10 mm stainless steel drew up the plan shown in fi g. 1. does look the business), so I used my
Fig.1
10.67
8.17
6.5 1.67
2
.9
Ø3
Ø3.92
Ø10
Knurl
Ø1
0
2.5
All dimensions in mm
›
November 2021 37
2 3
4 5
8
To ensure the tapped
hole was accurate to the
axis I used a tap holder
supported by a spring
tapping guide held in the
tailstock drill chuck.
November 2021 39
Readers’ Tips
This month’s winner is Geoff Andrews with a tip for simple indexing.
I needed to plane some internal splines using my lathe. I had no indexing facilities on the lathe so came up with this idea. I 3d
printed a gear with the required hole and number of teeth. This gear was glued to the workpiece then the workpiece was
chucked up as per photo. A simple indexing pin set at centre height in the tool post is then engaged with one tooth space. The
spindle is the locked or the lowest gear engaged. The tool post is then spun around to present the cutting tool and the first
spline is planed out. The tool post is the indexed around to present the indexing pin to the work. The chuck is then rotated
around the required amount the indexing pin engaged the spindle locked, repeat as before until all splines are cut. When
finished the gear or indexing ring is knocked off. I was pleasantly surprised by the accuracy of the spline spacing. This is another
example of 3d printing as an aid in the workshop.
We have £30 in gift vouchers courtesy of engineering suppliers Chester Machine Tools for each month’s ‘Top Tip’.
Email your workshop tips to [email protected] marking them ‘Readers Tips’, and you could be a winner. Try
to keep your tip to no more than 400 words and a picture or drawing. Don’t forget to include your address! Every month I’ll
chose a selection for publication and the one chosen as Tip of the Month will win £30 in gift vouchers from Chester Machine
Tools. Visit www.chesterhobbystore.com to plan how to spend yours!
Please note that the first prize of Chester Vouchers is only available to UK readers. You can make multiple entries, but we
reserve the right not to award repeat prizes to the same person in order to encourage new entrants. All prizes are at the
discretion of the Editor.
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The Basics of 230/400Vac
Electricity in Simple Terms
Part two of a short series by Steve Skelton that covers various aspects of basic
electrical safety in the hopes of making us all a little more secure in our workshops.
Overload – Protective Devices is dark, or the fuseboard is sited in an wire instead of the correct fuse wire.
There are a number of devices that are unlit under stairs cupboard making the Based on our experience we would
used in fuse boards, distribution boards process time consuming, awkward and recommend that fuse boards containing
and consumer units to prevent circuit potentially dangerous. rewireable fuses are replaced with
overload. These are: It is also important to determine that modern MCB types for safety reasons
1: Rewireable fuses the cause of the original fuse failure has especially if the property is let – we
2: Cartridge type fuses been rectified otherwise the rewiring have found that many tenants do not
3: MCBs or miniaturised circuit breakers process will again be necessary. understand the need to replace fuse
It must be remembered that these Another disadvantage is that the wire with the correct grade!
devices are used to protect the wiring correct fuse wire to replace the “blown”
in the installation from an overload wire is often not available or the person 2 Cartridge type fuses
(and to help protect the building from a replacing the fuse wire is unaware of These are very similar in performance
potential fire) – they do not necessarily the different grades of fuse wire and to rewireable fuses in that they are very
protect people from receiving an thus puts in the incorrect grade with straightforward and are very reliable in
electrical shock or to protect appliances. potentially disastrous results. use. However, they do suffer from the
An example of rewireable fuses and same shortcomings as the rewireable
1 Rewireable fuses the type of fuse board in which they are types requiring the user to replace the
These are historically very common and generally found are shown in photos 1 fusible element. They are generally
made up the vast majority of domestic and 2. faster to replace than the rewireable
and light industrial circuit protective On some occasions we have found the fuses but again it relies on the user
devices in the 60’s and 70’s. They fuse carrier to have been rewired with having spare fuses to hand (which is
have the advantage of being relatively a section of copper wire which would rarely the case), photo 3.
low cost to produce are technically not “blow” until the cable, to which it The fuses themselves are all of
straightforward and tend to be very was attached, over-heated and set fire dissimilar sizes (in domestic applications)
reliable in use. to the building. We carried out electrical and therefore eliminate the potential of
The disadvantage of these fuses is inspection and testing on one property replacing with the incorrect size of fuse,
that when a fault occurs (or in the case in Taunton and found that the cable had photo 4.
of a lighting circuit, a lamp fails) the become so hot, due to a fault, that the
fusible element “blows”, disconnecting PVC insulation was charred and dripping 3 MCBs or miniaturised circuit
the power to the circuit. The fuse, by its from the cable – we are not sure how breakers
nature, has to then be manually rewired. the house did not catch fire – all because These are now the preferred choice
Of course, it usually happens when it someone had used a section of copper in the majority of new domestic and
1 2
3 4
commercial installations. They are installation to prevent overheating and to travel. This could be in an electrical
relatively low cost and can be reset, potential fires. installation or an appliance.
although in a short circuit situation they They are not there to protect Some appliances are designed to have
can be overloaded and damaged. It is appliances or their wiring (that’s why a certain level of leakage current to earth
essential to ensure that the potential plugs have fuses!). (usually in the order of 2 or 3 milli-amps
short circuit current at the board does It is important to ensure that the maximum i.e. 2 or 3 thousandths of
not exceed the rated short circuit correct size of fuse or MCB is chosen an amp or 0.002A) – these are usually
capacity of the MCB. for the wiring it is supplying. Lighting power supplies to electronic equipment
There are different versions of MCB circuits are usually 1 to 1.5 mm2 in cross e.g. pcs.
and modern ones to BS EN 60898 are section and are generally protected by If however a fault or damage to a
of B, C or D curve. I have not described up to a 6 A MCB or fuse. Radial power cable causes a component to become
them as Type B, C or D as there are circuits are generally 2.5 mm2 and have live then there is a potential for leakage
devices called RCDs and RCBOs that up to a 20 A protective device and ring current to be pass through a person or
come in different “Types” and there is circuits in 2.5 mm2 a 32 A device. animal.
often confusion between the two. Cables that run through or within To eliminate the possibility of
B curve MCBs are generally for normal insulation may have to be downrated to dangerous leakage currents causing
use where the loads attached do not prevent overheating if they are unable electrical shocks there are a number
have high switching currents on start up to dissipate any resistive heating effects of safety features that should be
and domestic type circuits generally fall Electrical leaks or faults that can lead incorporated into all installations.
into this category. to electrical shocks Before looking at these it is important
C curve MCBs are used in commercial Leakage is where an electrical current to look at the effect of electrical current
or industrial circuits where switching is passes down a path it is not intended passing through the human body.
surges can be quite high, for example
banks of fluorescent lighting or 4
equipment with motors.
D curve MCBs are not suitable for
general use and are generally limited
to equipment like X-ray machines or
industrial welders.
Both C and D curve MCBs trip at the
same constant current as a B curve
when maintained for a significant period
of time (can be up to an hour), the
difference is the tolerance to varying
start-up currents. The circuits to which
each is attached have to be designed
to cope with this start-up current. As
an example, a D curve 32A breaker will
withstand 200A for about 10 seconds
whereas a B curve 32A breaker will “trip”
immediately.
An example of a consumer unit and
some MCBs are shown in photos 5 and
6.
To sum up – all of the devices above
are designed to protect the wiring in the Distribution board with MCBs. ›
November 2021 43
5
In our
Next Issue Coming up in issue 310
On Sale 19th November 2021
Content may be subject to change
Moving heavy machinery? Will Dogget Jacques Maurel makes a tool for Laurie Leonard makes some
gets his skates on. internal turning. improvements to a drill press.
Scribe a line
YOUR CHANCE TO TALK TO US!
Drop us a line and share your advice, questions and opinions with other readers.
Moxon Vices
Dear Neil, I enjoyed reading Laurie Leonard’s article on making some tender bits of flesh.
handles for his Moxon vice. I built mine with more conventional vice handles, which leave
Although the Moxon double-screw vice is a 17th century the screws at the back where they are much less likely to do
invention, they have become popular in recent years partly me any harm. This arrangment also keeps everything better
because of the availability of kits for the metalwork. The aligned and pretty much eliminates the tendency to racking
perceived advantage of the heavy hand-wheels is said to be which Laurie describes (I used bronze sleeves where the acme
that they can be spun quickly to open and close the jaws. screws pass through the jaws, which is probably overkill) . I
However, once the jaw separation is set for a particular job, can wholeheartedly recommend lining one jaw with leather -
I rarely find much need to change it. I don’t like the usual gives a very strong grip with minimal tightening of the handles.
arrangement because it leaves two long, heavy steel screws
sticking out from the bench at just the right height to catch Norman Billingham, Brighton
www.model-engineer.co.uk 45
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A Dodgy Ballscrew
John Scott does some problem solving on his milling machine.
A
former colleague of mine was a 1
director of a national company
making railway switches (you’d
call them points). He was recruiting
graduates to work as junior engineers:
“I don’t need railway enthusiasts,
I need problem solvers, I’ve got a
factory full of problems here.”
I know exactly where he was coming
from. Some people are fixers, some
aren’t. There are ways to approach
problems which bring results... or you
can just wade in.
I spent the thick end of my career
solving problems in engineering and
software
When the underlying cause of a
problem becomes clear, when you just
know you’ve got it, it brings a special
satisfaction. In my experience, this
often happens suddenly, you’re working Milling process.
3 4
5 6
November 2021 49
7 8
9 10
Narrow context
Traditional machines use leadscrews
to move when operators move control
handles. That is, a screw thread that
pulls or pushes parts of the machine as
it is turned.
Leadscrews have inherent slack,
known as backlash. Backlash means
that, however accurate the control is
when advancing unidirectionally, there
will be an inaccuracy when the motion
direction is reversed. Handling and
overcoming that inaccuracy is part of the
skill of operating a traditional, manual
11 12
Fig.3
37.0 40.0 Ø23.5 x 2.5 pitch
20.0 8.0
to fit existing nuts
16.5 One each left hand Ø48.0
& right hand Ø5.0
Tap M5
38.0 PCD
Ø23.5
Ø33.0
A A
45°
16.5
20° 85.0
Ø17.0
40.0
Ø28.0
Section A-A
machine. Figure 1 shows backlash in a half a millimetre to less than 0.1 mm. On the Y-axis.
leadscrew. a scale of one to what I do, that’s more That was confirmed by measuring
CNC computer controls can’t exercise than fit for purpose. the position of the slide with an
that skill, so they use something called a Ballscrews used to be very expensive indicator and comparing the actual
ballscrew instead of a leadscrew. items. Large high precision ones as used position with the programmed position
A ballscrew is a bit like a ball-race that in industrial machines still are. Recently, as moves were made.
has had a fight with a spin drier. It does use in 3D printers and changes to the Unlike normal backlash, as found
the same job as the leadscrew but has way they’re manufactured has reduced in a old fashioned leadscrew, this
near zero backlash. Figure 2 shows the prices of smaller ballscrews substantially. backlash was not uniform . It didn’t
structure of a ballscrew. occur to the same extent across the
When I fitted CNC to my mill, I Problem Symptoms whole range of movement. Rotating
replaced leadscrews with ballscrews. After nearly three years of reliable the ballscrew by hand, I could feel a
The backlash was reduced from about working, I detected some backlash in non-linear movement, not always in the ›
November 2021 51
13 14
15 16
same position. This was puzzling, I was design of the machine (a craftsman because of swarf falling onto the screw
stumped. never blames his tools, but sometimes and fritzing the ballnut. I was cross
Parts of the mechanism which drives criticises) the screw is exposed at that I’d not improved the guarding to
the screw could cause a problem, they extremes of travel, and gets swarf and stop that happening (craftsman blames
were checked and found ok. coolant on to it, which subsequently craftsman). Photograph 4 taken during
The screw is visible underneath a could find its way into the ballscrew nut. dismantling shows embarrasing swarf
rudimentary swarf guard, and there It appeared that the ballscrew nut ingress on the Y-axis ballscrew.
was no gross damage. Because of the must be failing. I assumed it was failing
17 18
19 20
The rotary feed mechanism (as the ballscrew is being turned by hand not power the
Indicator for displacement. gloves pose no risk).
Ballnut replacement difficulties were very difficult, only achieved after drive end extension adaptor which
Replacing the nut and the screw was not two falls and a submission. However, at requires the 15 mm diameter, there’s
going to be particularly expensive, but replacement-time the engineering club another adaptor to mount the ballnut
was going to be a major undertaking for was Corona-closed. onto the original leadscrew nut.
a number of reasons: A brief trial of a screw offcut on my This is quite a neat design. I’d really
I’ve stated “I replaced leadscrews Atlas lathe showed that there was like to take credit for it, but it is “reverse
with ballscrews” earlier. This was not absolutely no hope, of machining it ... engineered” (copied) from a commercial
a matter of simply replacing parts with anyway the Atlas spindle won’t pass product used on larger machines.
others using spanner and screwdriver. 16mm, so it wouldn’t fit on the lathe. The original leadscrews are
It involved some complexity to modify Meanwhile, eBay delivered a approximately 22 mm diameter. The
off-the-shelf parts and make adaptors. replacement ballscrew and nut in less ballscrews are 16 mm diameter. I made
It’s not possible to simply unscrew than the time it took to prepare an adaptors to mount the ballscrew nuts
the ballscrew and pull it out, as you alternative machining solution. into the leadscrew nuts using the
could with the original leadscrew. The The root cause of the problem (a original leadscrew thread. Figure 3
ballscrew and nut assembly has to be eureka moment) shows the adaptor which screws into
taken out as one. It is deep inside the I took the machine to bits to get the the leadscrew thread.
machine; every removable part has to old nut-and-screw out. As well as the Photograph 5 shows the adaptor
come off. There’s an extension on the
driven end of the ballscrew, to adapt to 21
the driving mechanism, that extension
has to be removed to get the screw out.
And last but not least; the ballscrew
end has to be machined to connect it to
the extending adaptor.
The ballscrew is hard, it is
manufactured by rolling the thread,
which work-hardens the outer surface.
That’s good for its function and service
life but makes it a nightmare to turn
down. The screw is 16mm outside
diameter, core diameter approx 14mm.
To fit the adaptor, we need the crest of
the screw machined down to 15mm. The
core of the screw is just ok to turn, it’s
hard material but not impossible, but the
threads are glass hard from the thread
rolling.
I did the original screws on the
engineering club lathe which is a
substantial industrial machine. They The vibration damper. ›
November 2021 53
22 23
24 25
mounted into the original brass going to be straightforward. In truth the Three solutions:
leadscrew nut. old ballscrew might have continued to • You can unscrew the nut if you use
The design I copied locks the adaptor work adequately without replacement. a keeper which matches the core
into the original brass nut by tightening However, the new one was on its way diameter, photos 7,8,9,10 and 11
a screw which squeezes the split nut , the old one had spent its service life show a home-made keeper saving the
visible in photo 6. This was originally covered in swarf, and the drive end situation.
intended as a crude backlash adjuster for extension had been removed (not a • I made some slip-on centres to fit the
the leadscrew. It is used here simply to straightforward job) in order to get at it. pre-existing end machining, photo 12
jam the thread, so it doesn’t move. I decided to press on with a replacement. shows one of them.
While taking the ballscrew assembly • My Portass Model S lathe was in bits,
off the machine, I spotted that the Ballscrew Mod as part of another project. The bits
adaptor was not held firmly in the nut. It The shortest replacement ballscrew included the lathe bed, the tailstock
was able to rotate, stiffly and unevenly, was 500mm long with the ends and a temporary tailstock-like dead
by about 1⁄8 of a turn. pre-machined to standard patterns centre mounted on the fixed steady
When this happens there’s relative unsuitable for this application. One end (from yet another project).
axial movement, the source of the needed to be simply cut off to length, Photographs 13 and 14 show this
backlash. As soon as this is understood, but there was still the 15mm diameter lot pressed into service to mount the
it explains everything! requirement. The normal way would screw between the slip-on centres.
It explains why the backlash didn’t be to grind the shaft between centres. Photographs 15 and 16 show a bench
always manifest in the same axis Three problems: grinder mounted on a block crafted from
position, it explains the slightly “mushy” • You can’t just unscrew the nut; the precision wood(!) to position the wheel
feel in the movement when turning balls will fall out. to reach the screw.
by hand, it explains why the screw • The shaft didn’t have centres in the Pivoting the grinder and wheel
movement was uniform after the error end. was easier than trying to slide it in a
was finished. • I didn’t have access to a cylindrical controlled manner. photo 17 shows
This was my golf ball moment. grinder (being Corona-grounded). the pivot. The Portass compound
Fixing the unwanted rotation was slide became the feed mechanism
26 27
photo 18 with an indicator to measure Refitting the drive end extension Swarf Guard
displacement, shown in photo 19 The drive end extension fits onto the To prevent swarf falling onto the
At this point I was nearly ready to end of the screw. Photograph 24 leadscrew I made up an additional
grind the small section of shaft diameter, shows how it joins on and reveals sliding swarf guard which lives under
all that was needed was the manual why 15mm diameter was needed. It the existing flexible guard, and covers
“rotary feed mechanism” photo 20 and uses a plumbing compression joint and the gap exposed when the Y axis is at
the “vibration damper” photo 21, note olive, reinforced with Loctite 603 high minimum full travel, photo 26.
the contrasting colour gloves. strength cyanoacrylate. This joint has
Despite being a complete lash-up, proved robust in service. Ultimately it Conclusion
this set up worked extremely well, if can be separated by heating. I’m pleased to report that the machine
a little slowly. The outside diameter of was finally reassembled at the end of
the glass-hard screw was reduced to a Resolving the root cause April (AKA mid-lockdown) and tested
uniform, specified diameter in a safe and The ballnut adaptor thread was with no appreciable backlash in Y.
controlled manner. Proof of the pudding separated, cleaned and reassembled In case that sounds an anti-climax,
here, photo 22, shows grinding dust on with Loctite to prevent a recurrence. photos 27 and 28 are a couple of
the lathe bed and photo 23 shows the While the machine was in bits, I did the pictures which show it working under
finished diameter. X-axis adaptor as well, photo 25. CNC control. ■
November 2021 55
Hobby Engineering News
On the
Wire
Midlands Garden Rail Show 2022
NEWS from the World of
Hobby Engineering
Meridienne Exhibitions are excited to announce the dates for
their 2022 Midlands Garden Rail Show. The exhibition, held at
Warwickshire Event Centre, is taking place on the 12th and 13th
March 2022!
Attracting nearly 2,000 enthusiasts from all over the UK, the
inspiring exhibition showcases a range of exciting railway layouts. Covering the larger gauges and scales the layouts will depict a
variety of historical and fictional lines.
The exhibition is well supported by local and visiting clubs and layouts as well as leading suppliers,
Save the date now to avoid disappointment!
For further details on the exhibition and suppliers attending will be updated over the coming months at;
www.midlandsgardenrailshow.co.uk and on Facebook Meridienne Exhibitions Ltd.
BEGINNERS WORKSHOP
These articles by Geometer (Ian Bradley) were written about half a century ago. While they contain much good advice, they also contain
references to things that are out of date or describe practices or materials that we would not use today either because much better ways are
available or for safety reasons. These articles are offered for their historic interest and because they may inspire more modern approaches as
well as reminding us how our hobby was practiced in the past.
Replacing a Mini-lathe
Controller
David Drury uses a commercial motor control module to revive his mini-lathe
Introduction 1 with the control potentiometer, for a
I am new to the ME forum, and joined very keen price. I also found the exact
after I bought a second hand Clarke same unit offered by others for twice as
300CL mini lathe as a ‘nice to have much or more – so buyer beware! It is
toy’ with no specific knowledge of possible some suppliers do not provide
machining, to make minor none-critical the control potentiometer – in that case,
dimension parts for my grandkids’ toys. you will need a 10 kohm, 2 Watt linear
After a school-boy error, my lathe potentiometer.
stopped turning, and being an ex-
maintenance electrician, I thought I Controller Description and
would have a go at repairing it. Initial Testing
Before going any further, I would like Testing with the unit as received,
to point out that this is a description of I found that the lathe spindle was
how I got my mini-lathe running again The Jinan Keya Controller rotating at over 2000 rpm as opposed
– I am sure that other people will have to the approximately 1100 rpm required
their own ideas, and this description is replied telling me where a new board in the slow speed setting of these
only intended as guide for those who could be purchased and also about an lathes. After some examination, I
have the misfortune to have one of this after-market controller for sale online. found there is a preset potentiometer
type of lathe ‘die’ on them. If you do A replacement for the original board is under a hole in the cover for adjusting
decide to have a go yourself, the work available from Arc Euro Trade and other the output voltage – on my unit, this
involves dealing with 230V AC and up to suppliers. was unmarked. Measuring the output
200 V DC. These voltages are lethal and After discussing the matter via a voltage across the terminals OUT- and
can kill you! If you do not have the skills Private Message with another forum OUT+ of the controller showed this
to deal with these voltages, then do not member, we realized that a simple was set to 220V DC, so it needed to be
attempt this work, find someone who AC/DC converter should do the job. A reduced to just over 180V DC, as in the
does to do the work for you. The advice search of the net produced the Keya original controller, using the preset. This
here is given in good faith. I take no Controller I ended up using, shown in procedure is described later.
responsibility for your accidents! photo 1. This produces a variable DC After setting this voltage, a check
Some of the wiring may need to voltage, up to a nominal 220V DC, at using a simple app on my smartphone
be replaced in order to reach the up to 4 amperes, and came complete showed the motor running at around
appropriate connection. You may find 1100 rpm in the slow speed setting, as
it easier to remove some of the wiring 2 per the original installation.
and replace it, if you have the skills and The controller also has two ‘Inhibit’
confidence. inputs, which have to be connected for
it to operate – this could be used as an
Diagnosis interlock loop to remove power from
Not knowing if the motor or the the motor when the reversing switch is
controller board had failed and caused operated – details will be shown in the
the problem, I found some information schematic.
on YouTube about testing the motor In addition, the Keya controller has
and established there was a very good preset controls to adjust the motor
chance the motor would be OK. Using start-up speed for a ‘soft start’, also to
a 12 volt car battery it rotated slowly. I adjust the available torque, and to adjust
also checked for no short-circuits and for smooth running under load.
the resistance between the armature It also has short-circuit protection, and
segments, then cleaned the armature will shut down if the output is short-
with a fibre pencil and made sure the circuit – this is indicated by a red LED
brushes were free and a good length in alarm on the unit.
the holders. The unit seems to be well made, and
I asked forum members if others had as described above, seemed suitable as
this problem, and if a modern solution a replacement for the original controller,
had been found. Several kind members The Controller Installed so I set about fitting it to the lathe. ›
November 2021 59
IMPORTANT - 3 4
Before Starting Work.
First a WARNING: this modification
requires you to work with 230V AC and
up to 200 V DC, which can be lethal.
Take all necessary precautions to avoid
touching potentially live wires, and
ensure that all connections are securely
made using the appropriate methods,
and correctly insulated. Take extra care
connecting the power to the STOP
switch – it is easy to connect 230V AC to
the wrong terminals on this switch, so
check carefully.
Note the small numbers on the back
of the reversing switch and connect as
shown – refer also to the drawings.
This description assumes you still have
the original controller wired in place, and
can identify its connections, as described Retaining the Controller Installing the Potentiometer
below. I would advise reading these
instructions through and understanding Have a small insulated screwdriver motor at this point.
what you are doing before starting work. available to adjust the miniature Connect the 10KΩ potentiometer as
potentiometer inside the unmarked hole shown in the diagrams and set it fully
Installation Procedure on the front of the controller. This can be clockwise, (this would be maximum
Before doing anything else, it is easier seen in photo 2, close to the “PWM DC speed if the motor was connected).
to set the operating voltage before Drive” label. 1. With the AC power supply
installing the controller, as follows: It is not necessary to connect the disconnected, connect 230V AC Live
Fig.1
DC Controller
KEYA 220DP04BL
E Earth
5 6 7 8
9 19 11 12
5 Electrical Connection
The circuit diagram of the Controller for use in the
mini-lathe is shown in fig. 1.
The original speed control potentiometer should
be removed and discarded and the 10Kohm
potentiometer supplied with the new controller fitted
in its place, photo 4. This is connected to the +5V – IN
- 0V terminals of the Keya controller as shown in the
circuit schematic, fig. 1.
You may need to enlarge the hole for the
potentiometer to 10mm so the new one will fit.
The high voltage DC outputs from the original
controller board (connected to terminals 6 and 10 of
the reversing switch) must be connected to the OUT-
and OUT+ terminals of the Keya controller (refer to
the circuit schematic, Figure 1).
As shown in Figure 1, one pole of the reversing
switch is connected through the INHIBIT input of
the controller. The reversing switch has a ‘centre
OFF’ position, which will break the INHIBIT loop, and
remove power from the motor. Terminals 5 and 9 are
connected together, and connected to one INHIBIT
input, and the common terminal (1) is connected to
the other INHIBIT input. This can be seen on the
schematic drawing.
Finally, the incoming 230VAC power connections to
the lathe, fed via the STOP switch and a 2A Slow-Blow
fuse, should be connected to the AC IN terminals of
the controller. A new earth connection must be made
from the metal frame of the Keya controller, photo 5,
to the earthing point on the lathe bed, usually below
the headstock, and the incoming mains earth should
also go to this point.
Note: there are NO connections to the two terminals
Controller Earth Connection on the controller marked LC- and LC+. These are used
for motors having a separate field winding, which the mini-
and Neutral to the AC IN connections of the controller. lathe motors do not have. (They use a permanent magnet).
2. Connect a short piece of insulated wire between the two Next set the preset controls to their preliminary positions –
INHIBIT terminals. set the ACCEL and TORQUE presets to approximately 50%. The
3. Connect a DC voltmeter set to at least 250 VDC across the IR COMP adjustment can be left ‘as is’ at this stage. Additional
OUT- and OUT+ terminals, noting the polarity. information is available in the Specification Sheet, which can be
4. Apply the AC Power. downloaded from the Keya Site. (Link at end of article)
5. Taking care not to touch any of the high voltage points on When all is complete, and you are sure that all connections
the controller, carefully adjust the potentiometer (inside the are secure and not able to short-circuit, then set the controls
hole in the case), until the voltmeter reads 180V +/- 5 Volts. so the lathe should rotate anticlockwise (normal operation),
Once this is correct, then disconnect it from the power, and and the speed control potentiometer in the centre of its range,
remove the link across the INHIBIT terminals. This procedure make sure there are no obstructions, stand clear, cross your
sets the voltage such that the motor will not run too fast when fingers and apply the power.
it is connected. If at this point, the motor is rotating backwards, switch off
and disconnect the power, and swap the motor connections
Mechanical Installation at the reversing switch (marked 2 and 3). If you now run the
It is necessary to remove the mounting posts for the old lathe again as above, it should rotate in the correct direction.
controller inside the box, then the controller can just be fitted You can also check operation of the Reverse switch. Run
inside the box, leaving enough space for the controls at the top the lathe forward at about half-speed, then operate the
of the box, photo 2. I milled these off so the inside of the case Reverse Switch. In the centre (OFF) position, the lathe motor
had no obstructions which would obstruct the controller. should stop running, and in the reverse position, it should be
The controller is fixed with a single 4 mm screw into the running in reverse.
case, as shown in photo 3. The Controller is manufactured by Jinan Keya type MMT-
There is a plastic guard mounted just above the leadscrew PWM DC DRIVE. Model number 220DP04BL, Input 220 volts
inside the controller box, to prevent swarf entering and getting AC and output up to 220 DC volts at 4 amps. A Specification
into the electronics. It also prevents the leadscrew catching any Sheet is available for download on the Keya Site:
loose cables, particularly the ones fed through from the rear http://www.dcmotorkeya.com/220v-dc-motor-speed-
of the machine. It is advisable to leave this in place, but it will control%204a.html ■
need reducing slightly in width by approximately 10mm so it
doesn’t foul the controller when the box is refitted to the lathe.
November 2021 61
www.model-engineer.co.uk/classifieds/
Coronavirus advice is changing! Please follow local government advice in Wales, Ireland, Scotland or England as appropriate, especially if you are considering buying or selling items for collection.
Machines and Tools Offered Parts and Materials wheel, light board with cable & plug.
■ Banbury precast concrete workshop, ■ BOILER, copper, brand new £30. John.
brick effect finish, outside dimensions 11 professionally made for Stanier mogul. T. 01494 864978. Great Missenden.
feet 9 inches x 6 feet 9 inches. Already Ex works condition. £2800 Ono. Photos
dismantled due to downsizing. £300 and details on request from seller. Wanted
ono. Buyer collects. Contact Mike. T. 01670 517545. Newcastle on Tyne. ■ 5 inch GWR Prairie Loco, either
T. 01908 393522. Milton Keynes. complete or well advanced construction.
■ Set of running gear to equip trailer. Kindly let me know what you have
■ Multifix 40 position toolpost with Pair of 4” x 8” wheels, suspension units under the workshop table. Thanks.
toolholders, Brand new, £300 ono, with hubs, hitch, mudguards, jockey T. 01566 86032. Launceston, Cornwall.
Buyer collects.
T. 07780 607196. Hartlepool.
Models
■ 7 ¼ gauge Petrol Driven SNCF (4-
4-4). 6 ½ hp LONCIN ENGINE (Honda
copy). Electric Start. Variable Hydraulic
Drive. Hydraulic Disc Brake. Chain Drive
to Centre Bogy. Comfortable seat. Good
passenger hauler, has been used to
haul passengers on the Cardiff track.
Easy to drive Easy Controls. Comes with
purpose-built trailer for transporting.
Nearest offer to £3,000. Photos
available. T. 01792 898205. Swansea.
YOUR FREE ADVERTISEMENT (Max 36 words plus phone & town - please write clearly) ❑ WANTED ❑ FOR SALE
A Finger Plate
Vic Russell makes a very neat example of this traditional toolmaker’s accessory
1
I
needed to cross drill a small shaft set screw from underneath.
some years ago for a project I was The next operation was
working on and after a couple of cutting the V slot in the
attempts I was reasonably happy with top, photo 2, and this gave
the result. It did prompt me though me pause for thought as
to look at a more suitable solution for I wanted to ensure any
holding small parts for machining. I’d holes drilled along the V
seen a Finger Plate, photo 1, in one were in perfect alignment.
of my engineering books and further One of them in particular
searches yielded a large number of was to have a cross drilling
different designs all loosely based on button in it so alignment
the same basic idea. Searching through was paramount. In the end
my scrap bin I found some inch thick I hogged out the majority
steel plate of unknown composition that of the V by mounting the
seemed a likely candidate for the base. plate at 45 degrees using Side view showing the v-slot.
After truing up on the mill I ended up a conventional mill but I did finish off
with a plate 75mm square, 24mm thick. I the final cut with a V router cutter. This seem absolutely necessary but part way
taped an M6 hole for the post and fitted enabled me to lock the Y axis on the mill through the build I attended the London
an M6 stainless steel stud that luckily for subsequent milling of the clearance Model Engineering Show and happened
already had a hex socket in one end. The slot and drilling. The two finger grooves upon a nice 3⁄4” bull nosed end mill at a
post is locked in place by a short socket I’d seen on one particular example didn’t good price so it followed me home. I’m ›
November 2021 63
3
Theasby’s Wrinkles
Radio
tuning
control
Geoff Theasby, G8BMI,
achieves rotary precision
I
n some electronic applications it is
necessary to use a heavier, if less
attractive adjusting control than the
usual plastic component. This is doubly
helpful if it controls a rotary encoder,
as there is nothing of substance behind Heavyweight aluminium knob.
the panel and the merest touch can
alter it. To this end, I made one myself
from 38 mm diameter aluminium rod, some relevant clipart and stuck it
cut to length and blind drilled 6.5mm on. N.B. Pritt Stick does not work on For the electronics enthusiast, if
for a ¼ inch shaft, cross-drilled 2.5 mm, aluminium, so I used Evostik. ■ you need heat sink grease in a
& tapped 3 mm for a retaining screw, hurry, use toothpaste, nappy rash
preferably two. Not having a knurling cream, Germolene, heavy grease,
A ‘granite’ place mat/chopping
tool, I fitted a rubber ring to the knob lip balm, or Marmite. Nappy cream
to aid grip and ‘feel’ when tuning. I board from a supermarket makes an
excellent surface plate, and placed and Germolene contain zinc oxide,
had a bicycle inner tube that I found in
the street a while ago, a short length upon your mill bed, offers a good good for thermal conductivity,
of that proved just right. Alternatively, surface with no slots, for use in Marmite and lip balm are very
wrap self-amalgamating tape round tramming the head. They are heavy, high viscosity so don’t drain away.
the knob for a similar purpose. I wanted sound like stone when tapped, but I use lip balm. Toothpaste dries
something different from the usual are limited to 100 degrees C. out after a few days.
smooth, shiny appearance, so I found
Meccano Spares
p
To advertise here
New Reproduction and
contact Angela Price at Pre-owned Original
Meccano Parts.
[email protected] www.meccanospares.com
[email protected]
Tel: 01299 660 097
webuyanyworkshop.com
Re-homing model engineers’ workshops across the UK
It’s never easy selling a workshop that has
been carefully established over a lifetime. I
will buy your workshop so you don’t have to
ſĺŗŗƅÑêĺūťƧıñĕıČÑıøſđĺİøċĺŗİūëđ
THINKING OF SELLING YOUR loved workshop equipment and tools.
LATHE, MILL OR COMPLETE
WORKSHOP?
Please email photos to
and want it handled in a quick
[email protected]
professional no fuss manner? Or to discuss selling your workshop, please
Contact Dave Anchell,
Quillstar (Nottingham) call me on 07918 145419
Tel: 0115 9206123 All equipment considered: Myford, Warco, Chester, classic British brands etc
Mob: 07779432060
Email: [email protected]
Polly steam locomotives also purchased, especially those needing a bit of ‘TLC’
November 2021 65
MODEL MAKING METALS
1/32in. to 12in. dia. bright steel, stainless
steel, bronze, spring steel, brass, aluminium,
silver steel, steel tubes, bolts, nuts & screws,
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Fine materials, chain, plastic.
Lathe milling machines and equipment,
new and secondhand.
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Milton Keynes Metals, Dept. ME,
Ridge Hill Farm, Little Horwood Road, Nash,
Milton Keynes MK17 0EH.
Tel: (01296) 713631 Fax: (01296) 713032
www.mkmetals.co.uk
email: [email protected]