Wines Sardinia
Wines Sardinia
Wines Sardinia
of
Sardinia
‘I crossed the vineyard. The vines were in flower;
all was vibrant with fireflies. Oh we can only express
ourselves through music! What sweetness, what
heartache in that moment, when I stopped in the midst
of the rows of vines, and suddenly found myself caught
as if within a glowing net.’
G. Deledda
(from “The stolen child”)
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SARDINIA “INSULA VINI”
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great viticulturalists, as well as able navigators, spread the ... the fascinating idea of
culture of winemaking around the zones bordering on their
colonies, whilst they were seeking to extend their commerce in wine production dating
the central-west Mediterranean. The Punics found a
winemaking culture already in place: a culture which was to from the nuraghic period
become dominant in the colonies of Kalaris, Tharros, Cornus,
Nora and Olbia, thanks to their ever-developing relationship with is hinted at by some
the Sardinians.
The violent expulsion of the Punics by the Romans marked the archeological findings...
start of a long period of Roman domination for Sardinia. Many
archaeological remains relating to viticulture bear testimony to
winemaking activities of the era. Findings in the important
Arrubiu nuraghi complex at Orroli in the province of Cagliari
where actual oenological workshops dating from the 2nd and 4th
centuries A.D. have been discovered. Baths for grape-pressing,
bases of wine presses and various types of vessels were also
found. Perhaps the most surprising find is grape seeds dating
from the same period, found below the same nuraghe. Such
vine species are still to be found today.
Many and varied are the traces of Roman civilisation to be found
on the island: necropolis and tombs bear witness to oenological
activities in the form of decorations and furnishings which
clearly refer to wine-making, as well as agronomic terms in
Latin, and production techniques still in use today.
The Roman era came to an end around the middle of the
5th century with the invasion of the Vandals; the
destruction and abandonment of the culture
which accompanied the period brought about
the resumption of intensive agrarian activity
by the Byzantines. One result of this was
the introduction of new vines, over and
above the well organised norm of the
period. In particular, it was the
Basilican monks, of Greek ritual, who
contributed to the renaissance of
vine culture through the planting of
new vines around their monasteries.
Sardinia was one of the seven
Byzantine provinces, the
“Exarchate of Africa”, and when
Arab peoples, converted to
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Islam, invaded territories facing the
Mediterranean in the 7th century, Sardinia
was only marginally involved, passing
relatively unharmed through the period
during which Moslem rulings forbade the
consumption of wine. Sardinian
winemaking carried on uninterrupted.
Following the decline of the Byzantine
Empire, the four Giudicati of Cagliari,
Arborea, Torres and Gallura were born.
During the Giudicati period, Sardinia set
about consolidating and increasing its
wine production, protecting vine
cultivation and commerce by means of
truly exemplary legislation. Such
regulations were codified in the Codice
Rurale di Mariano IV d’Arborea, dating back
to 1353, and formed part of the Carta de
Logu, issued by Eleonora d’Arborea at the
end of the 1300’s. Severe sanctions,
generally pecuniary, but going as far as the
cutting off of the left hand, for those who
uprooted or set fire to the vines of others,
were imposed.
In the Codice degli Statuti del Libero Comune
di Sassari, dating from the late 1200’s, article
128 applied to over-production of vines in the north of
the island, introducing even so long ago, the current system
governing the planting of new vines, “De non pastinare vingna:
... the Carta de Logu Nobody, man nor woman may plant nor have planted vines in
the territory of Sassari or nearby, except if someone has a vine
of Eleonora D’Arborea, and wants to uproot it from the land, he/she can only replace
the number uprooted, and if someone has fallow-land, he can
introduced in the plant tricla or similar vines, not to be transformed into wine on
his/her land”.
Giudicale period, Between the 13th and 18th centuries, new cultivars were
introduced to the island under Aragonese and Spanish
regulated Sardinian domination. Such types, both of black and white types, are
still, for the most part, under cultivation.
wine-making activities... The introduction of the new system of growing vines known
as sa catalanisca, which means without support, as opposed
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to the sa sardisca, where vines were supported is also ... Sardinia has finally rea-
attributed by some to this period. Other historians maintain
that this system was already in use in Sardinia during the ched the point of being
Roman era, from which use the term alberello latino derives,
and is still in use. At the end of the 19th century, that is to say able to produce and
before phylloxera devastated vine plantations, Sardinia had
about 80,000 hectares dedicated to specialised vine growing. market high quality wines,
After replantation of new vines grafted onto American
rootstocks, viticulture took off again and expanded to such a thanks to
point that around 75,000 hectares were occupied. Alongside
this growth of winemaking, programmed with incentives by the application of new,
the Regione Sardegna, cooperatives for the processing of
grapes in modern plants took place. advanced technology.
The winemaking structure, well set up and in constant
development, is flanked by cooperative and private infrastructures,
represented by small and medium businesses, using modern
technology at the avantgarde of organisation and
commercialisation of wine production.
The application of “state of the art” technology has finally
allowed Sardinia to compete in the marketing of quality wines
with the greatest European producers. On this generous,
hospitable island, the climate, the soil and the species of vines
knowledgeably nurtured by mankind have given birth to wines
of high quality, some vigorous and robust, others elegant and
aristocratic, but always conceived in harmony between
production and environment. The equilibrium and singular taste
sensations of Sardinian wines remind us of the richly-coloured
fabrics of the island’s
traditional costumes, an
expression of ancient
Sardinian culture.
Imagination runs
unbounded in this
extraordinary land,
perfumed with the
Mediterranean scrub,
lashed by the Mistral and
cradled by sea breezes.
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VERMENTINO
Sardinia is undoubtedly the chosen land for this species, which together with
Cannonau, represents the most typical expression of regional winemaking.
Coming to Sardinia through Corsica at the end of the 1800’s, from the
granite terrain of Gallura, where it found its perfect habitat, it spread
throughout the island, where it currently occupies about 2,800 hectares. The
Vermentino cultivated in Sardinia is a wine of great personality, which bears
no comparison to other Italian or foreign wines, even if they bear the same
name. Its presence throughout the island, characterised by varying
environments of cultivation, allows the wine to express the various
characters of its zones of origin, whilst maintaining a unifying, common
characteristic of quality. Demand for this wine has shown constant and
consistent growth. Among the three most important types, Vermentino has
shown constant growth in demand, never suffering from serious
fluctuations. Vermentino vines are currently used for the production of
DOCG Vermentino di Gallura, and the DOC Vermentino di Sardegna, as well
as Alghero Vermentino frizzante (sparkling). The Vermentino di Gallura has a
pale straw colour, with shades of luminous gold, a strong and refined
perfume of mature fruit, broom and aromatic herbs. The taste is dense, soft
with dry overtones, and a warm “mineral” aftertaste.
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NURAGUS
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SEMIDANO
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TORBATO
History relates that this vine landed in Spain in the wake of the
Carthaginians and Phoenicians, who came from the Aegean sea
basin, considered to be the place of origin of the great Malvasia family, a
family in which Torbato is surely to be numbered. Subsequent eras
saw the vine spread to areas around the Mediterranean basin,
including Sardinia, where it was introduced during the period of
Spanish dominion. Cultivation of the vine increased considerably
during the 300-year period of Catalan occupation of the island. Most
of the wine was exported to the court of the King of Aragon, where it
was particularly appreciated.
Nowadays, it is grown in a small, 900 hectare zone of Alghero, an area
bearing clear signs of its Catalan past. Torbato is purely produced to
obtain the eponymous wine, as well as a sparkling variety, both
bearing the title of DOC Alghero.
The wine is of a medium straw colour, with a taste which recalls
minerals, white flowers and fruit. It is both lively and refreshing.
Vi massa dols,
fa lu cor agre.
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CANNONAU
This red wine perhaps brings to mind, more than any other, memories
of Sardinia, its ancient traditions and welcoming hospitality. The type is
cultivated throughout the island, the interior being the most favoured
zone. Its origins are still unclear, but recent studies, still underway,
suggest that winemaking was carried out as long ago as the Nuraghic
period; therefore, probably Cannonau was already cultivated in
Sardinia at the time of Spanish dominion, when researchers
historically date back the introduction of this vine in the island.
Cannonau accounts for 30% of the land dedicated to vine production
in Sardinia, covering 7,500 hectares, 70% concentrated in the
province of Nuoro. Wine yield per hectare has never been high, and
reaches on the average 80 quintals. Cannonau is characterised by a
special fineness of taste and perfume which varies from zone to zone:
it has a good structure and an aftertaste recalling -in various
expressions- blossoms or fresh forest berries, with riper notes of fruit
jam and hints of warm spices in the Reserve and fortified wines.
Its DOC denomination is Cannonau di Sardegna.
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CARIGNANO
In vino veritas.
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BOVALE SARDO
The name Bovale refers to two species of vine, Bovale Sardo and
Bovale di Spagna; the latter, which came to the island from Spain
around 1300, is also known as Bovale Grande.
Recent research confirms a substantial difference between the two
species. Bovale Sardo, known locally and synonymously as Muristellu,
of known origins, is to be found in various zones of the island, but finds
its favoured terrain in the sunny Mandrolisai zone, in the province of
Nuoro, as well as Terralba, in the Oristano area.
The wine is rich in extract, in alcohol and polyphenolic complexity,
particularly where derived from vines grown using the alberello sardo
technique, and is harvested late in the season.
Along with Monica and Cannonau, it has the DOC title of Mandrolisai;
Bovale Grande being denominated DOC Campidano di Terralba or
Terralba.
DOC MANDROLISAI
Vine Min. 35% Bovale Sardo, 20-35% Cannonau,
20-35% Monica; max. 10% other suitable grapes
of Sardinian cultivation
Zone of cultivation The Municipalities of the Provinces of Nuoro and Oristano
of the Mandrolisai historical area
Grape yield Max. 120 quintals/hectare
Wine yield Max. 70% (red), 65% (rosé)
Typology and alcohol content Red and Rosé min. 11.5°; Red superior, min. 12.5°
Ageing 2 years, one of which in barrels for Superior typology
Su binu a su sabore,
su pane a su colore.
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CAGNULARI
Sa binza noa
servit in betzesa.
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MONICA
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MOSCATO
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NASCO
This highly-regarded fine wine has been cultivated in Sardinia for a very
long time. Nowadays, cultivation is concentrated in the sunny, chalky
zones around the Cagliari coastal hinterland. Its dialect name, Nascu is
derived from Muscus, which means musk, aptly describing the
unmistakable perfume to be found particularly in matured examples.
Already known in Roman times, the species was to be found all over
the island until the middle of the last century, to such an extent that it
was judged as one of the most prestigious wines of Sardinia at the
Vienna Universal Exhibition of 1873.
Chiefly cultivated using the classic alberello latino system, Nasco is
currently enjoying a well-deserved revival, even though production is
limited, and appreciated by a small, discerning public. The colour is an
elegant, warm topaz, the texture is dense, the perfume is
extraordinarily intense and reminds us of honey, mature fruit, dates,
figs, candied orange, with a finish of sunny, musky, Mediterranean
scents. It is dense, sweet and like velvet to the palate.
DOC recognition since 1972.
In sa cuba minore
su binu bonu.
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MALVASIA
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VERNACCIA
An ancient and noble species, found in Sardinia since the times of the
Phoenicians, who introduced it along the Oristano coast, the Sinis
peninsula and the ancient staging port of Tharros.
Cultivation has always been exclusively limited to the Province of
Oristano, where it is chiefly grown using the alberello latino method. It
flourishes in the low terrain of the Tirso and Rio Mannu flood-lands. The
name of the vine, held to have been conferred by the Romans, derives
from vernacula, which means a grape of the zone. This would explain the
presence of the Vernacce species in other wine-producing zones of Italy,
although they have nothing in common with Sardinian Vernaccia.
This superb wine, the pride of Sardinian oenology, owes its unique
characteristics to an oxidative maturation, of at least 3-4 years in barrels
which are not completely filled. The presence of oxygen encourages the
rise of yeast to the top of the must, forming characteristic flor film, which
contributes to the special aroma, known in the ancient vernacular as
Murrai. This particular refinement happens even today in the traditional
wineries (cantine di Oristano) made of straw and mud with a typical
terracotta roof. As long ago as the 19th century, Cettolini wrote of
Vernaccia, “… It must be judged by the senses… its aroma is worthy; the
delicacy of its completeness conquers us- that curious taste of bitter fruit,
so gracious, so seductive, of which we never tire. Instead, we submit”.
This poetic description is well-suited to Vernaccia, a dry wine with a
unique personality revealed to us through all its sensory expressions,
including the warm amber shades of its colour, its complex, ethereal taste
sensations of Madera, dried fruit, almond flowers and bitter honey which
linger on the palate with extraordinary tenacity. Apart from DOC Vernaccia
di Oristano, the first Denomination recognised in Sardinia in 1971, a young
white wine known commercially as IGT Valle del Tirso is produced.
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GIRÒ
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LAORE Sardegna
Department for the multifunctionality
of agricultural enterprises,
rural development & agrifood chain
Edited by
Antonella Casu and Renzo Peretto.
Collaboration:
Piergiorgio Vacca and Massimiliano Venusti.
Thanks to:
Alessandro Madesani for the authorisation of the piece
by Grazia Deledda, Nobel Prizewinner for literature;
Mario Sanges and Pinuccia Simbula,
for help and precious advice.
Texts consulted:
“Storia regionale della vite e del vino in Italia: Sardegna”
by A. Vodret
“Storia della vite e del vino in Sardegna”
edited by M.L. Di Felice and A. Mattone.
Costumes:
Municipal Tourist Board Santadi, Silvestro Pisu from Oristano,
Piero Simula “Associazione Folkloristica Ittiri Cannedu”,
The Pintus family from Osilo, the Floris family from Ittiri - Desulo,
Mariella Basile from Orgosolo, Lucio Carboni “Su Idanu” Quartu,
Giovanna Flore “Su Gologone” Oliena.
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Wines of Sardinia Producers from the province
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Wines of Sardinia Producers from the province
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Wines of Sardinia Producers from the province
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Wines of Sardinia Producers from the province
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Wines of Sardinia Producers from the province
of Olbia-Tempio (OT)
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Wines of Sardinia Producers from the province
of Oristano (OR)
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Tel. +39 339/1260519 - 0783/70306 Tel. e fax +39 0783/418276 09095 Mogoro (OR) Tel. e fax +39 0785/35420
[email protected] [email protected] Tel. +39 0783/990285 [email protected]
www.alteaillotto.it www.vernacciaserra.it Fax +39 0783/990496 www.fratelliporcu.it
[email protected]
AZIENDA VINICOLA PITTINURI AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA www.ilnuraghe.it MELIS ABELE AZIENDA AGRICOLA
DI GIUSEPPE DESOGOS GIOVANNI BATTISTA COLUMBU Via S. Suina, 20
Corso Umberto, 160 Viale G.Marconi, 1 CANTINA SOCIALE LA GIARA 09098 Terralba (OR)
09073 Cuglieri (OR) 08013 Bosa (OR) S.P. N° 31 Tel. e fax +39 0783/851090
Tel. +39 0785/39183 Tel. e fax +39 0785 373380 09090 Usellus (OR) [email protected]
Fax +39 0785/39706 [email protected] Tel. e fax +39 0783/938006
[email protected] www.vinibosa.com PRODUTTORI RIUNITI S.R.L.
CANTINA SOCIALE SOC. COOP. Via E.D’Arborea, 22
AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA MAURO PUTZOLU DELLA VERNACCIA 09070 Baratili S.Pietro (OR)
VIGNE MONTIFERRU Via Eleonora, 8 Località Rimedio Tel. e fax +39 0783/410228
Piazza S.Lucia, 14 09070 Baratili S.Pietro (OR) 09170 Oristano (OR) [email protected]
09075 Santu Lussurgiu (OR) Tel. +39 333 2855632 Tel. +39 0783/33155
Tel. +39 347/2910805 [email protected] Fax +39 0783/33860 SILATTARI SRL
Fax +39 0783/550640 [email protected] Loc. Silattari
AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA www.vinovernaccia.com 08013 Bosa (OR)
AZIENDA AGRICOLA F.LLI ZONCU NAITANA G.VITTORIO Tel. +39 328 2633596
Via Regina Elena, 2 Via Roma, 2 CANTINE TERRALBA Fax +39 0785/228191
09070 Riola Sardo (OR) 08010 Magomadas (OR) SOCIETÀ COOPERATIVA [email protected]
Tel. e fax +39 0783/410261 Tel. +39 349/0801807 Via Marceddì,166 www.silattari.com
Fax +39 0785/35333 09098 Terralba (OR)
AZIENDA AGRICOLA FRANCESCO ATZORI Tel. +39 347 7747883 SILVIO CARTA S.R.L.
S.P.n.4 Km 2,500 AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA SANNA FILOMENA Via Roma, 2
09072 Cabras (OR) Via Vittorio Emanuele, 20 COMPAGNIA FIGLIE 09070 Baratili S.Pietro (OR)
Tel. +39 0783/290576 08011 Magomadas (OR) SACRO CUORE EVARISTIANE Tel. +39 0783/410314
Fax +39 0783/392231 Tel. e fax +39 0785/35311 Via Evaristo Madeddu, 43 Fax +39 0783/410198
[email protected] [email protected] 09070 San Vero Milis (OR) [email protected]
www.vitivinicolatzori.it www.zarellivini.it Tel. +39 0783/52007 www.silviocarta.it
Fax +39 0783/52004
AZIENDA AGRICOLA PERRA MASSIMINO CANTINA DEIDDA [email protected]
Via Roma, 49 - 51 S.S. 388 - Km 7.200
09070 Baratili S.Pietro (OR) 09088 Simaxis (OR) COOP. VITICOLTORI DELLA
Tel. +39 320 1951195 Tel. +39 0783/406142 PLANARGIA SOC.AGR.
Fax +39 0783 410230 Fax +39 0783/406022 Via Nuova, 8
www.agriturist.it [email protected] 08010 Flussio (OR)
www.cantinadeidda.it Tel. e fax +39 0785/34886
AZIENDA VINICOLA ATTILIO CONTINI SPA [email protected]
Via Genova, 48/50 CANTINA DI MARRUBIU - ISOLA - 4 MORI www.csplanargia.com
09072 Cabras (OR) SOC.COOP.AGRIC
Tel. +39 0783/290806 SS 126 Km 117,600 FAMIGLIA ORRO DI DAVIDE ORRO
Fax +39 0783/290182 09094 Marrubiu (OR) Via Giuseppe Verdi, sn
[email protected] Tel. +39 0783/859213 09070 Tramatza
www.vinicontini.it Fax +39 0783/859820 Tel. +39 347 7526617
[email protected] Fax +39 0783/50040
AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA EMIDIO OGGIANU www.cantinadimarrubiu.it [email protected]
Loc.Badde Nuraghe www.famigliaorro.it
08013 Magomadas (OR) CANTINA JOSTO PUDDU
Tel. +39 0785/373345 Via San Lussorio, 1
Fax. +39 0785/375274 09070 San Vero Milis (OR)
[email protected] Tel. e fax +39 0783/53329
www.bosacasevacanza.com [email protected]
www.cantinapuddu.it 7 /8
Laore Sardegna
www.sardegnaagricoltura.it
Wines of Sardinia Producers from the province
of Sassari (SS)
8 /8
Laore Sardegna
www.sardegnaagricoltura.it