Issue 20

August – October 2010 1

 Issue 20

Issue 20
3
C o n t e n t s

3 Le patrimoine en danger et les journées du patrimoine alexandrin

Yasmine Hussein

7 The Greco-Roman Museum of Alexandria Past, Present and Future

Mervat Seif El-Din

9 Alexandrie élue capitale du tourisme arabe 2010

Carole Escoffey

10 Alexandria Capital of Arab Tourism 2010

Abdallah Dawestashy 7
12 Two Failed Attacks of Hydriot Ships on the Port of Alexandria
Harry Tzalas

16 Tourists in Alexandria
Dina Magdy El-Dakhakhny

17 ‫املنشآت التجارية مبدينة اإلسكندرية الفنادق والوكاالت في العصور اإلسالمية‬

‫أمين جمال اجلوهري‬

19 Egyptian Falafel or ta’ameya

9
Contact us
If you want to be added to our mailing list, please fill in the form and either mail or email it to us.
If you would like to send a letter to the editor or to contribute to the newsletter (either an article
in Arabic, English or French, or a poem) please send it to:
The Alexandria & Mediterranean Research Center, Bibliotheca Alexandrina, Chatby 21526,
Alexandria, Egypt.
or
[email protected]

Register with Alex-Med

Surname: ........................................................................
First name: ......................................................................
Address (street, district): ...............................................
Postal code, city, country: ...........................................
12
Phone (home): ..............................................................
Phone (mobile): ............................................................
Email: ..............................................................................

Honoring the Past... Promoting the Future

This newsletter hopes to reach a wide public, both locally and internationally. It brings to you
news about Alex Med and Alexandria. If you would like to send your views, comments or
contribute topics related to Alexandria and the Mediterranean please use the contact details.
Regular features include an article on an Alexandrian personage, another on an Alexandrian
building or neighborhood, a page of photography that captures scenes from the life and sites 16
of the city, and a gastronomical section on Mediterranean cuisine. Our mission is to involve you
in our activities and in the making of a new Alexandria—one that honors the past, respects
diversity and rises to the challenges of the 21st century.

Editor: Carole Escoffey

Graphics: Mina Nader
Photography: Abdallah Dawestashy
Front cover: Ancient remains in Lake Mariout.
Back cover: The façade of the Greco-Roman Museum of Alexandria.

2 Alex Med Newsletter

17
 patrimoine
Issue 20

Le en danger et
les journées du patrimoine alexandrin
Yasmine Hussein

C
haque nation dans le monde fait
référence à son propre passé d’une
manière ou d’une autre. Pour que ce
dernier revive, socialement et culturellement,
il faut le rattacher à des objets représentatifs
de l’histoire de la société. Ainsi, la notion
de patrimoine souligne l’importance de
la transmission et de la filiation. En effet,
son étymologie remonte au terme latin
patrimonium, ce qui signifie pater, ou père.
Selon le sens contemporain, le patrimoine
désigne désormais l’ensemble des biens
hérités du père et de la mère, de la famille,
mais aussi par extension l’héritage commun
d’une société, d’un groupe humain. La valeur
de ces biens provient du fait qu’ils nous sont
légués par nos aïeux, notre rôle étant de
les transmettre aux générations futures. Le
patrimoine couvre aujourd’hui un champ très
étendu, de toutes ses formes matérielles
jusqu’aux expressions les plus immatérielles
d’une culture. Symboliquement, il a été
institutionnalisé, car labellisé et répertorié
pour une partie depuis 1972 par l’UNESCO,
au titre de patrimoine mondial de l’humanité,
lui conférant ainsi une valeur universelle.
En ce qui concerne le patrimoine de la ville
d’Alexandrie, il existe deux problématiques
en particulier. Tout d’abord comment
mettre en valeur un héritage si précieux
pour l’histoire de l’Égypte mais aussi par
extension pour l’espace méditerranéen et
le monde, vu l’importance d’Alexandrie.
D’autre part, il faut aussi penser à la manière
de protéger, sauvegarder, réhabiliter cet
ensemble de richesses face au danger
de l’oubli, du développement urbain ou
de la méconnaissance pure et simple. Le
Centre de Recherches Alexandrines et
Méditerranéennes, (Alex Med), travaille dans
ce sens et sa mission est de sensibiliser le
public et de présenter une documentation
sur le patrimoine de la ville. Mohamed Awad, farouche militant de Ensuite il faut mettre en œuvre une
En outre, cette année Alexandrie s’est vue la sauvegarde du patrimoine de la ville organisation concertée et coordonnée entre
désignée Capitale du tourisme arabe 2010. d’Alexandrie. Ainsi, le 26 septembre s’est différents partenaires, avec l’élaboration
Dans ce contexte, de nombreux partenaires tenu un séminaire au sein de la Bibliotheca de règles strictes au sein d’un cahier des
ont récemment rendu hommage à l’héritage Alexandrina intitulé «Le Patrimoine en charges. À ce titre il est intéressant de
de la ville en organisant «Les Journées danger». regarder ce qui a été fait ailleurs, notamment
du patrimoine alexandrin», du 24 au 28 Dans un premier temps, c’est le docteur en Europe où des lois ont été créées, et où
septembre 2010. Ces manifestations ont été Mohamed Awad qui a présenté les différents les promoteurs immobiliers sont tenus de
mises en place par le service pédagogique intervenants, puis il a proposé les bases signaler la découverte de sites archéologiques
du Centre d’Études Alexandrines (CEAlex) d’un cadre organisationnel pour la gestion et ont l’obligation de laisser entreprendre
d’après le modèle français et les journées du patrimoine. Pour mieux sauvegarder des fouilles, en échange de compensations
européennes du patrimoine, créés en l’héritage, Mohamed Awad a souligné la fiscales. Mais il ne suffit pas de regarder
1984. Alex Med a coopéré, notamment en nécessité de connaître parfaitement la ce qui se fait à l’étranger pour le copier
la personne de son directeur, le docteur valeur des différents éléments du patrimoine. car l’objectif est de construire notre propre

August – October 2010 3

Issue 20

Le Palais de Ras El Tin

modèle de sauvegarde et de réhabilitation du À l’origine, la ville bâtie en 331 av. J-C en la place Mohamed Ali à Mancheyah, base de
patrimoine. Ainsi, les acteurs qui coopèrent face de l’île Pharos s’est développée surtout l’organisation et du développement de la ville
peuvent être multiples : les centres d’études sous le règne des Lagides. L’Heptastadium, moderne. En 1890, est créé à Alexandrie
et de recherche, le gouvernement et l’appareil le Phare, le Musée et la Bibliothèque, un le premier conseil municipal d’Égypte qui
législatif, la société civile et les associations. système de canaux d’irrigation, les quartiers planifie notamment la construction du Musée
Les organismes internationaux comme royaux, ses palais et ses jardins ont donné gréco-romain, des jardins de Chalalat et du
l’UNESCO ou la fondation de l’Aga Khan à la cité cette renommée économique et stade municipal.
ont aussi leur rôle à jouer, de même que les culturelle à travers le bassin méditerranéen Aujourd’hui, de grands travaux de
hommes d’affaires dans le sponsoring et les sous le règne des Ptolémées. Devenu un restauration sont entrepris sur beaucoup de
promoteurs immobiliers. La place des médias centre commercial très important sous ces façades et ces bâtiments qui datent pour
est aussi très importante car elle est à même l’Empire romain, Alexandrie a ensuite l’essentiel du 19ème siècle.
de créer une conscience collective. changé de visage avec le christianisme, Le docteur Ibrahim Darwish, directeur
Plus précisément, le docteur Mohamed les églises remplaçant les temples païens. général du Conseil Suprême des antiquités,
Awad a parlé des résultats concrets de ses Les catastrophes naturelles n’ayant pas a ensuite parlé de la rénovation du Musée
activités, grâce auxquelles des immeubles épargné la ville, les conquérants arabes gréco-romain. Il a souligné qu’il fut l’un
ont pu être sauvés. Grâce à ces exemples découvrent une ville endommagée par des tous premiers musées en Égypte.
concrets il a souligné que la chose n’est les séismes et inondations. Ils ont ainsi Ce musée a fêté son centenaire dans les
pas simple, car nécessitant un véritable préféré le développement de Fustat à années 80, mais se trouvait alors dans
cahier des charges — plans, restauration, celui d’Alexandrie. La renaissance de la un état de délabrement assez avancé,
réhabilitation — des lois, et un travail qui ville a commencé avec les Mamelouks, qui notamment en ce qui concerne sa façade
prend également en compte l’environnement ont notamment construit le fort de Qaitbay et ses colonnes. Ibrahim Darwish a évoqué
immédiat du monument ou bâtiment que l’on au quinzième siècle sur l’emplacement d’une part les difficultés du transport et du
veut sauver. du Phare disparu. Puis, au dix-neuvième stockage des pièces du musée et d’autre
siècle sous Mohamed Ali et le Khédive part les améliorations, surtout en termes de
Ismaël la ville reprend considérablement sécurité.
son essor. Les étrangers sont des acteurs Le quatrième intervenant, M. Mohamed
économiques privilégiés et la ville redevient Soliman, directeur des Affaires générales,
cosmopolite. On doit à cette époque la villa autorité régionale pour le tourisme à
d’Antoniadis, le palais de Ras el Tin, ainsi que Alexandrie, a décrit deux exemples de

C’est ensuite le docteur Abbas Yehia, chef

du Département d’architecture de l’Académie
arabe pour les sciences et la technologie, qui
a pris la parole afin d’évoquer le patrimoine
architectural alexandrin et les menaces qui
pèsent sur lui. Après avoir rappelé le rôle de
cet héritage pour l’identité sociale et culturelle,
il a présenté un panorama des immeubles de
la ville, dont une partie est détruite, une autre
a besoin d’une restauration, et une troisième
nous est parvenue conservée en bon état.

4 Alex Med Newsletter

Le jardin et la villa d’Antoniadis
 Issue 20

réhabilitation. Premièrement, le palais de Pour terminer, le docteur Emad Khalil, il a expliqué que d’autres lieux en cours
Fatma El Zahraa construit en 1919 dans professeur d’archéologie et d’histoire d’exploration et comprenant eux aussi des
le quartier de Glym a fait l’objet d’une gréco-romaine de l’Université d’Alexandrie, vestiges ont besoin d’être préservés des
rénovation que l’on a souhaitée à l’identique. a présenté les vestiges retrouvés autour méfaits de l’urbanisme. L’ancien lac Maréotis
Mohamed Soliman a décrit ce bâtiment, qui de et dans le lac Maréotis. À part les sites a été une ressource sous-étudiée jusque-
abrite depuis 1986 le Musée des bijoux, en protégés de Marea et de Taposiris Magna, là, pourtant précieuse quant à l’activité
parlant notamment de ses parquets, des
fenêtres, des vitraux, des peintures… Pour
chacun de ces éléments un processus
de restauration utilisant des techniques
appropriées et se basant sur des photos
anciennes a été nécessaire. En deuxième
lieu, pour réhabiliter la mosquée Ibrahim
Terbana, construite en 1685 dans le quartier
d’Anfouchy, on a utilisé la même démarche:
on a eu recours aux anciens documents afin
d’avoir une description détaillée des lieux à
l’origine. Puis les différents éléments ont été
restaurés ou refaits à l’identique selon des
processus typiques de chaque matériau: les
boiseries, le marbre, la céramique….
M. Harry Tzalas, président de l’Institut
hellénique pour l’étude d’Alexandrie antique
et médiévale, a présenté les campagnes de
fouilles archéologiques sous-marines de la
mission grecque. Le champ d’exploration
de cette mission s’étend du cap de Selsela
jusqu’à Montazah. Harry Tzalas a évoqué
les menaces naturelles et humaines pesant
sur les monuments immergés, surtout ceux
qui sont à proximité de la côte à cause
notamment de la construction de brise-lames
en béton. Il a présenté le site de Chatby, où
la mission grecque a découvert les vestiges
immergés des palais royaux ainsi qu’un
pylône appartenant probablement au temple
d’Isis Lokhias. De même, à Ibrahimieh, on
a retrouvé une concentration importante
d’ancres. Au récif d’El Hassan, à 500 mètres
du cap de Selsela, l’équipe a découvert les
restes d’une épave romaine ainsi que sa
cargaison d’amphores brisées. Enfin, Harry
Tzalas a évoqué la zone immergée de Sidi
Bishr qui était une grande nécropole durant
l’Antiquité.

Des vestiges retrouvés dans le lac Maréotis August – October 2010 5

Issue 20

économique d’Alexandrie gréco-romaine.

Par conséquent, depuis 2004, le Centre
d’archéologie sous-marine de l’Université
de Southampton, en collaboration avec le
Département des antiquités sous-marines
du Conseil Suprême égyptien des antiquités
ainsi qu’avec l’Université d’Alexandrie, a
entrepris des fouilles le long du lac. Au sein
des sites étudiés on a retrouvé des ports,
avec des jetées et des quais permettant
l’amarrage de bateaux, ayant pu servir à
charger et décharger des cargaisons. On a
découvert aussi ce qui semble avoir été des
hangars ou installations de stockage. L’étude
a également révélé des preuves abondantes
d’activité industrielle, avec des productions
d’amphores principalement par le biais de
fours. Plusieurs autres structures liées à l’eau
ont été mises à jour, telles que des citernes,
des puits et des roues (saqiya). L’ensemble
de ces vestiges, en corrélation avec d’autres
sites archéologiques et des sources écrites,
prouvent l’activité de la viticulture dans la
région.
Suite à l’exposé de ces six intervenants,
les membres de l’auditoire ont posé leurs
questions. Cette conférence a été l’un des
temps fort de ces Journées du patrimoine
alexandrin. L’expérience partagée de ces
défenseurs du patrimoine alexandrin nous
a permis d’appréhender la question jusque
dans ses aspects les plus techniques et de
réaliser à quel point notre patrimoine est
notre dénominateur commun.
Également pour ces Journées du Les visiteurs goûtent les plats traditionnels égyptiens préparés sous la direction du chef Sameh Abdel Alim de l’Institut
patrimoine, Vincent Duménil et Marwa du tourisme et d’hôtellerie
Abdel Gawad, du service pédagogique du
Au sein du programme il y avait aussi des recherches effectuées par l’équipe du
Centre d’Études Alexandrines ont préparé
des rencontres dans des cafés de la ville CEAlex.
un programme conséquent comprenant
autour du thème de la musique intitulé Enfin, en collaboration avec l’Institut du
différents moyens d’appréhender
«Alexandrie mélodie», ou aux côtés d’un tourisme et d’hôtellerie, le public a été invité
le patrimoine d’Alexandrie. Ainsi, quelques
auteur qui partageait son expérience ainsi à apprécier le patrimoine culinaire de la ville,
sites ont ouvert gratuitement leurs portes
que sa relation à la ville, ses habitants et ses au Musée national d’Alexandrie.
au public, comme le Musée national
visiteurs.
d’Alexandrie, le Musée Cavafi ainsi que des
Diverses expositions ont été organisées
lieux culturels comme la mosquée Abu El
comme celle des cartes postales anciennes
Abbas, la cathédrale de Sainte Catherine et
(«Alexandrie rétro») au Centre Français
la synagogue Eliahou Hanabi.
de Culture et de Coopération (CFCC)
d’Alexandrie. À la section jeunesse de la
Bibliotheca Alexandrina un atelier intitulé
«Dessine ton héritage» a été proposé aux
enfants, dont les travaux ont ensuite été
exposés au Centre de création d’Alexandrie.
De même, au Centre culturel jésuite, une Les enfants en habit traditionnel ont accueilli les visiteurs
exposition de vieilles affiches de cinéma, lors de la dégustation de la culture culinaire égyptienne
au jardin du Musée national d’Alexandrie
de photographies d’acteurs et d’anciens
appareils de projection a accompagné un La réussite de cette première expérience
programme de films réalisés à Alexandrie. des «Journées du patrimoine alexandrin»
En outre, le CEAlex a présenté deux nous a permis de mieux appréhender
événements exceptionnels au CFCC l’importance du patrimoine ainsi que
d’Alexandrie pendant ces journées du la nécessité de sa protection, en tant
patrimoine: une conférence d’Isabelle Hairy, que richesse partagée par tous. Cette
qui a exposé un assemblage virtuel en trois manifestation a complété un long travail du
dimensions du Phare d’Alexandrie, puis des service pédagogique du CEAlex et de ses
projections de films archéologiques autour partenaires afin de réveiller la conscience du
grand public.
6 Alex Med Newsletter Un groupe lors de la visite de la synagogue Eliahou Hanabi
 Issue 20

museum contained ten halls, and then in

The Greco-Roman Museum of Alexandria 1896 two other halls were added. In 1901
the number of halls increased to sixteen
P a s t , P r e s e n t a n d F u t u r e (Figs.3 and 5). Since then, the museum has

Mervat Seif El-Din1

The façade of the Greco-Roman Museum

T
he Greco-Roman Museum of The museum’s modest first building
Alexandria is one of the most consisted of two floors and was located in
important museums, not only in the Rosetta Street (now Horreya Avenue) in a The installation of the Apis bull discovered in the
Mediterranean region, but in the world, with a building known as Kevork’s building. The Sarapeion by Giuseppe Botti (1896-1898).
history dating back to the nineteenth century. Antiquities Service provided the museum
Until recently, it was also considered one of with 3000 pieces sent from the Egyptian become one of the most important scientific
the four major museums of Egypt, along with Museum. Giuseppe Botti, who was appointed and touristic institutions. The building was
the Egyptian Museum, the Coptic Museum its first director (1892–1903), published further enlarged in order to exhibit items
and the Islamic Museum. It contains not the first catalogue of the museum in 1893. found in excavations by many European
only the main archeological artifacts found Later, he published the first volume of the archeologists and scientific missions. In
in Alexandria and its surrounding area, but famous Bulletin of the Archeological Society 1923, the complete plan of the museum was
Greco-Roman artifacts discovered all over of Alexandria (1898). Botti is considered finished.
Egypt. to be the first scientific excavator of the
A key role in the foundation of the museum city. He discovered important sites and
was played by Giuseppe Botti, an Italian numerous artifacts, with which he enriched
archeologist, who came to Alexandria in 1884 the museum’s collection. With the increasing
as the head of the Italian school. Together with number of artifacts, the need arose to
the British Consul, Sir Charles Cookson, and construct another building. In 1894 the
others, Botti founded the Athenaeum society, idea to build a museum directly behind the
which successfully lobbied the Municipality Alexandrian Municipality was realized by
of Alexandria for a Greco-Roman Museum. M.M. Dietrich and Leon Stienon and in July
In 1892, this goal was initially achieved by 1895 the actual museum was inaugurated
establishing a modest archeological museum in the presence of Khedive Abbas
with the cooperation of the Municipality of Helmy II, accompanied by Moukhtar Pasha
Alexandria and the Egyptian Antiquities Ghazi, the Ottoman High Commissary, and The complete plan of the museum by Evaristo Breccia
Service under the direction of Jacques the consuls of several countries. In addition, (1923)
de Morgan. The agreement to found the the number of artifacts increased to 4000 Evaristo Breccia, the second Italian
Greco-Roman Museum was signed in the pieces after several Alexandrians including director of the museum (1904–1932),
Municipality on 1 June 1892 by Jacques Glymenopoulos, Zizinia, Harris, Demetriou, made some new arrangements in the
de Morgan and Khedive Abbas Helmy II. It Denonis and Antoniades hurried to donate exhibition of artifacts and published a new
was officially inaugurated on 17 October and their own collections to the museum.
opened to the public on 1 November of the The basic plan was to enlarge the
same year. exhibition halls in phases. At first, the
It is worth mentioning that before the
Greco-Roman Museum was founded,
the Egyptian Institute was the only
building in Alexandria which contained
archeological discoveries such as coins from
E.D.J. Dutilh’s collection as well as Greek
and Latin inscriptions, statues, lamps and
amphora handles. However, in 1878 the
Egyptian Institute with its collection was
transferred to Cairo.
Plan of the Greco-Roman Museum by Giuseppe Botti The hall of the Apis Bull during the directorship of
(1900) Evaristio Breccia

August – October 2010 7

Issue 20

catalogue of the museum’s collection. He numismatic department was given special

then produced further publications about training in order to register the remarkable
the excavations he undertook in Alexandria collection, which is the largest in the world,
and in other Greco-Roman sites in and is considered to be the “Cabinet de
médailles” of Alexandria, after the one in
Paris.
On the occasion of the Greco-Roman
Museum’s centenary, the Supreme Council
of Antiquities in Egypt held two conferences,
one in Alexandria in 1992 and one in Rome
in 1995 in cooperation with the University
of Palermo, supervised by the prominent
professor, Nicola Bonacasa, once a student
of Adriani’s. For the first time, a great number
of the curatorial staff of the museum shared
papers concerning the unpublished collection
The saqeya scene from the Wardian tomb
of the Greco-Roman Museum.
Since then, the museum seems to
From that period onwards, the collection have recovered its international reputation
continuously increased either through becoming once again a key institution for
accidental discoveries, for example, of the El both scholars and art lovers. Significant
Mohamara collection, or through confiscated researches dedicated to the artifacts of the
museum have been published, in addition to
Loculi and slabs discovered by Breccia during his
English and French catalogues of its unique
excavation of the Eastern Necropolis of Alexandria
collection. Hence, knowledge about the
Egypt, such as Theadelphia in Fayoum and Alexandrian school of art has gradually come
Hermopolis Magna. During his directorship, to light, whereas recent discoveries in the city
Breccia established the library of the have proved the importance of Alexandria
museum, collecting all kinds of scientific as the former capital of Egypt. Finally, it
books and periodicals on Egyptology, Greco- should be mentioned that the Greco-Roman
Roman archeology and records of travelers. Museum has showen part of its remarkable
He also recognized the need to renovate the collection in international exhibitions such as
building and to add another floor. The statue of Nilus from the excavation on the site of La Gloire d’Alexandrie (1998) and Cleopatra
Mohamara in Sidi Bishr district of Egypt: From History to Myth (2001).
In 2005, the museum was closed for the
second time in its history in order to be entirely
renovated. It has taken from 2005–2009 to
register the whole collection before removing
it from the building. Some important items
have been evacuated to other museums,
such as the Museum of Antiquities in the
Bibliotheca Alexandria and the recently
opened National Museum of Alexandria, in
order to be temporarily displayed.
The new building of the Greco-Roman
The façade of the new museum proposed by Breccia (1932)
Museum will consist of two floors, while its
After the death of Breccia in 1932, Achille artifacts such as the sixty-six thousand collection will be re-arranged according
Adriani was nominated as the new director stamped amphora handles, originally part of to chronological order. The first hall will be
of the Greco-Roman Museum (1932–1939). the Lucas Benakis collection. devoted to the earliest contacts between
He published a new periodical, Annuaire- In 1969–70 the United States of America Greece and Egypt, up to the conquest of
Annuario (1933–1952), which contained offered to build another museum in the Alexander the Great. Recent discoveries
the results of all the excavations made in Shalalat Gardens area, but the idea never from the city will be displayed, as well as
the city, while he himself carried out several materialized. In 1979, the relationship with the traces of the activities of Greek settlers
excavations, notably in the Mustapha Kamel the international community developed in the in Egypt through coins, ceramics and
necropolis. During the Second World War, cultural domain. The Second International inscriptions. This seems to be the most
Alan Rowe, a British officer and classical Exhibition held in Germany contained some suitable place to exhibit the colossal eagle
archeologist, replaced Adriani as director of of the more spectacular artifacts from the of Thasos. The following exhibition hall will
the museum. He returned to his office in 1947 Greco-Roman Museum. By 1984, the need cover the period of Alexander the Great and
until 1953, when he left Egypt permanently to renovate the museum was urgent and the the influence of Greek art, essentially from
after the Nasser revolution. Egyptian Antiquities Organization under its Thessaly and Macedonia, including painted
In the following period, Henri Riad was chairman, Ahmed Kadri, started to execute grave stelae. Next to this room, in the hall
another prominent director (1958–1967). this project. Once again the museum was of the City of Kings, of the Rich and of the
His excavation in Wardian district enriched renovated and new exhibition rooms such as Poor, portraiture of the members of the
the collection with the saqeya wall painting, the numismatic and jewelry halls were added Lagide royal court will be displayed, as well
one of the masterpieces of the museum. to the building. Meanwhile, the staff of the as examples of Alexandrian art at the time
8 Alex Med Newsletter
 Issue 20

of the Ptolemies. Daily life, intellectual life collection will include artifacts related to the the different kinds of coins and their role in
and the bilingual educational process of the presence of the Roman army and community the economic life of Ptolemaic and Roman
Hellenistic period will be highlighted in these in Alexandria and the rest of the Egyptian Egypt.
exhibition rooms. chora: for example the list of Roman soldiers Finally, a few remarks have to be added
The deities and religious life of found in the new Roman district of Nikopolis here: Dr. Zahi Hawass, the Chairman of the
Alexandrians will be presented by dedicating (mostly funerary stelae and sarcophagi). Supreme Council of Antiquities, has agreed
some halls to the main composite divinities Other rooms will show the last phase of that all the sensational pieces from the recently
(Serapis, Isis and Harpocrates), while in Roman history in Egypt up to the early discovered temple of Basteion in Kom El
a special hall, the temple of the crocodile Christian era. They will contain architectural Dikka district will remain in Alexandria, while
god, Sobek, will be placed, together with elements as well as some textiles pieces. some artifacts from the Egyptian Museum of
its whole collection. The following rooms The monuments concerning Saint Menas will Cairo, dating from the archaic Greek period
will present the City of the Dead, including be part of the final tour of the exhibition on will be given to the Greco-Roman Museum.
discoveries from the Alexandrian necropolis the ground floor of the museum. In return, pieces of the museum’s collection
and information for visitors regarding the As for the first floor, it will be constructed will be lent to the Grand Egyptian Museum,
different types of funerary practices such as as a mezzanine to display the sculpture of the Museum of Civilization, the Museum of
coffins, funerary vases, plaster and mummy the different ethnic groups of Egypt and their Arish, the Sharm El-Sheikh Museum and the
masks, and sarcophagi. civil functions (orators, philosophers etc.), Suez Museum.
The subsequent rooms will accommodate and the minor arts and industries during the
1 This article is based on a lecture which was given
pieces from the Roman period in Egypt, whole Greco-Roman period: ceramics, glass,
by Dr. Mervat Seif El-Din during the First Hellenistic
including statues and portraiture of Roman faience, plaster, lamps and bronze. The Studies Workshop, organized by the Alexandria
emperors and other members of the Roman numismatic showrooms will be an important Center for Hellenistic Studies in Alexandria on 12–18
July 2009.
imperial court. In addition, this part of the aspect of the exhibition, showing the visitors

Alexandrie élue capitale du tourisme

arabe 2010 Carole Escoffey

A
lexandrie est actuellement placée en tête de liste des destinations touristiques à ne pas rater: la ville fondée par Alexandre le Grand
a été élue capitale du tourisme arabe pour l’année 2010. La décision fut annoncée en 2009 par le Bureau exécutif du Conseil des
ministres arabes du tourisme, relevant de la Ligue arabe, qui a choisi Alexandrie parmi les douze villes du monde arabe qui avaient
posé leur candidature. Selon le ministre du tourisme égyptien, Zaher Garanah, l’initiative d’élire une ville du monde arabe comme capitale
du tourisme arabe chaque année a pour objectif de mettre la lumière sur les coutumes et traditions ainsi que la valeur touristique de la ville
élue, d’encourager le tourisme entre les pays arabes et aussi de développer le tourisme arabe à travers l’interaction avec d’autres cultures et
civilisations. Alexandrie a été choisie en grande partie à cause de sa longue et riche histoire. Les divers festivals et manifestations organisés
à cette occasion ont commencé en avril 2010.
L’événement est sensé avoir un impacte décisif dans la promotion d’Alexandrie, l’ancienne capitale de l’Égypte, en tant que ville cosmopolite
et touristique sur le plan national et international. Plusieurs organismes y prennent part y compris le Ministère du tourisme égyptien, la
Fédération égyptienne du tourisme, les cinq chambres du tourisme, le Gouvernorat d’Alexandrie, ainsi que les investisseurs concernés.
Parmi les manifestations prévues figurent des expositions et un festival de shopping, le tout très médiatisé par les pays membres de la Ligue
arabe.
En juin 2010, a eu lieu à Alexandrie la 13ème session du Conseil des ministres arabes du tourisme, pendant laquelle les participants ont
discuté des programmes et projets de développement du tourisme dans les pays arabes, et des échanges entre établissements académiques
et professionnels, notamment en matière de formation. Les ministres arabes du tourisme ont examiné les activités touristiques ces derniers
temps et leur impact sur le développement économique, le développement durable du tourisme, et les politiques d’encouragement de
l’investissement dans ce secteur. La rencontre a aussi été l’occasion pour discuter les moyens de renforcer la coopération interarabe dans le
domaine du tourisme.
Il est à ajouter qu’en février 2010, le Conseil des ministres arabes du tourisme a sélectionné la ville portuaire d’Aqaba en Jordanie comme
capitale du tourisme arabe en 2011.

August – October 2010 9

Issue 20

10 Alex Med Newsletter

 Issue 20

August – October 2010 11

Issue 20

Two Failed Attacks

of Hydriot Ships
on the Port of
Alexandria
Harry Tzalas1

The Port of Hydra today

12 Alex Med Newsletter

 Issue 20

H
ydra, a small, dry, rocky island British fleet, sailed their fast, slick brigs and Ali, Pasha of Egypt and subordinate to the
in the Saronic Gulf, neighbors brigantines across the blockaded ports. This Sublime Porte, was promised the Pashalik of
the eastern shores of the lucrative, although highly hazardous, activity the Peloponnesus for his intervention against
Peloponnesus. For the last fifty years, the permitted the islanders to build larger ships the Greek cause. The Egyptian fleet was well
residents of this peaceful island—numbering not only in their small boatyards but also organized, counting French advisers like
2,500 or so—have enjoyed a prosperity owed in other reputed Mediterranean shipyards, Captain Le Tellier, and numbered 63 men-
exclusively to tourism. Hydra’s special appeal such as those of Marseilles. The Hydriot of-war plus some 100 transport ships with
lies in its unaltered traditional architecture. fleet increased to the astounding number of 16,000 seamen.
The total lack of any modern means of 186 small and medium-size vessels, some All these facts are known and reported
transport—motorcars, motorcycles and reaching over 100 tons. in detail in all the tourist guidebooks that
bicycles are banned—is quite unique, and Obviously, the British men-of-war were include a brief history of Hydra. What is not
offers visitors a quiet haven where hundreds of a much superior tonnage and heavily known is that on two occasions during the
of cats run freely, unmolested by traffic, while armed. Because of the fear of piracy that Greek War of Independence, the Hydriots
donkeys and mules are the only way to get was rampant in those days in the waters of attempted to attack the powerful Egyptian
about other than on foot. the Western and Eastern Mediterranean, fleet of Mohamed Ali in its own base, the
No aerials, no neon lights, no flashing the merchant vessels of Hydra were lightly Eastern Port of Alexandria.
signs on stores, cafes, tavernas, restaurants, armed, so as to be swifter. Keen navigators It was the year 1825; although the Greek
nightclubs…. It is easy to feel as if we have and brave sailors, the Hydriots acquired cause had won sympathy in Europe and the
gone two or three centuries back in time when a reputation for their skill on the seas. It is distant Americas, militarily, the insurgents
we gaze on the delightful panorama before not surprising that the first nautical school of could no longer face the ever increasing
us: grand mansions and humbler houses Greece, at the turn of the nineteenth century, Turco-Egyptian land forces sent to destroy
are built amphitheatrically on gentle slopes, was established on Hydra. This small and their armed guerrillas. The intervention of
with cobbled paths meandering around the democratically organized society was led by Ibrahim Pasha, son of Mohamed Ali, was
harbor. Bougainvilleas, hibiscus, jasmine a Council of Elders. decisive. Ibrahim systematically annihilated
and honeysuckle add their scent and color to When in 1821 the Greeks of the the Greeks of Morea, of the Peloponnesus,
this earthly paradise of bygone days. Peloponnesus rebelled against Ottoman destroying crops, uprooting olive trees, and
Although there are remains of early rule, their example was followed by their planning to repopulate the land with settlers
settlements from thousands of years ago compatriots of central Greece as well as from Egypt. Realizing that a fatal strike would
and although all the phases of Greek history by some of the islands that had a fleet. The come from the Turco-Egyptian armies, the
are represented in Hydra by archeological Hydriots joined forces with the islanders of Greeks decided to launch a preventive attack
finds, it was not until the thirteenth century Spetses and Psara, placing their respective on the naval base of Alexandria aimed at
that the island acquired permanent fleets at the disposal of the Greek provisional crippling the fleet, thus making the transport
settlements. It was then that settlers from Administration. The fleet of Hydra, with and landing of fresh forces difficult, if not
the mainland found refuge on its rocky 158 armed ships, was by far the largest, impossible.
inhospitable shores. The population grew and it continuously challenged the Ottoman It all started when on 14 July 1825 a
in the second part of the fifteenth century fleet. Reputed captains, such as Miaoulis, man living in Alexandria, known under the
after the fall of Constantinople to the Turks. Tombazi and Kriezis, became legends in name of Giusti, wrote a letter to Lazaros
In 1715, following the decline of Venice, their own time because of the heavy losses Koundouriotis, the respected head of the
and in 1770 after the Orloff insurrection they inflicted on the Turkish fleet. Council of Elders of Hydra. Although Giusti’s
of the Peloponnesus, additional waves of For the three first years of the struggle for missive has been preserved, historians know
settlers came to the island. By the middle independence, the Ottoman fleet played a practically nothing of this man. The name is
of the eighteenth century, there were some limited role in the repression, and it is only in possibly Italian; some believe that he was
22,000 Hydriots with a sizable fleet of small the early part of the year 1824 that, owing to a Philhellene; others propose that he was
merchantmen trading not only with the the intervention of the Egyptian fleet, naval in fact a Greek living in Alexandria. Giusti’s
Greek mainland ports that then formed part efforts brought positive results. Mohamed letter, which was written in Greek, was full
of the Ottoman Empire, but also with the
archipelago, the coasts of Asia Minor, the
Black Sea, North Africa and ports along the
Western Mediterranean. Wheat from Egypt,
Asia Minor, and Russia was transported on
Hydriot ships as far as France, Spain, and
Portugal.
With the Russo-Turkish treaty of Kuchuk
Kainarji in 1774, Hydriot ships were allowed
to sail, at their owners’ discretion, under
either the Russian or the Ottoman flag.
Wealth grew in the chests of Hydra;
more ships, larger ships were built and the
height of the island’s prosperity came with
the Napoleonic Wars. From 1805 to 1815
the British imposed a strict embargo on all
continental ports; that is when the shipowners
from Hydra grabbed their opportunity for
acquiring more wealth. They sided with the At map from the end of the nineteenth century by Allezard, showing the course of action of Canaris’ fireship in the
French and, defying the superiority of the port of Alexandria

August – October 2010 13

Issue 20

of that surprise attack and lost no time in role of the fire ship in battle or in attacking
assembling, in secrecy, the Council of Elders. enemy ships at anchor was to sail as near to
It was resolved that a flotilla made up of a its victim as possible, lash the helm so that
corvette, a brig, and three fire ships would the fire ship continued on her course, secure
set sail as soon as possible for Alexandria. her to the targeted vessel with grappling iron,
The two ships, the corvette Themistokles and and, at the last moment, light the match; the
the brig Epaminondas, would be captained captain and crew escaping in a rowing boat,
by the best skippers on the island, while the called scapavia (from the Italian “to escape”),
ultimate operation of bringing the fire ships towed astern or alongside. In the British
into the port of Alexandria and launching them Navy, the captain of a fire ship who had
onto the gathering enemy armada would be successfully attacked and sunk an enemy
entrusted to Constantine Canaris. vessel received financial rewards as well as
Canaris was a native from the island of medals and honors.
Psara. He was not a Hydriot, so Koundoriotis’ So the three fire ships were secretly
proposal met with firm resistance. It was a prepared in the port of Hydra and, to
matter of pride for Hydra to have a wholly avoid the risk of this being divulged by any
Hydriot operation. Notwithstanding this Ottoman spy, no ship was allowed to leave
resistance—there was even an attempt to the port before the departure of the flotilla
assassinate Canaris—he was ultimately on 23 July 1825. The five ships reached
A portrait of Captain Constantine Canaris after an given the leadership of this delicate and the approaches of Alexandria on 29 July.
engraving made in 1827
hazardous mission because of the fame he It was early morning and so as not to be
of persuasive ardor. He describes in detail had won after repeatedly destroying large detected by the lookouts posted all day long
the Egyptian vessels that had returned Ottoman men-of-war with his fire ships. at the Fort of Kom El Nadoura to search the
to their Alexandrian base for repairs and It should be said that two years earlier, on horizon for the appearance of vessels, the
maintenance: four frigates, five corvettes, the 7 June 1822, Canaris had attacked Hydriot ships, flying the Russian flag, sailed
twenty-five brigs and seven cargo ships. the flagship of the Ottoman fleet in the west and anchored in the vicinity of Borg
Giusti noted that those ships, added to the port of Chios. This was in retaliation for El Arab. No one on board the Greek ships
ones already at anchor, i.e. four brigantines the destruction of the island by the Turks a had ever been to Alexandria except for one
and seven barques, would be ready to set few weeks earlier, the massacre of 23,000 sailor, Kyriakos Samiotis, who was purposely
sail by mid-August, taking an army of ten Chiots, and the deportation and enslavement selected because he had been to Alexandria
thousand regular soldiers that would land in of another 49,000. Admiral Kara Ali, who repeatedly on caïques.
the Peloponnesus. was responsible for the massacre, found a
The informer then proposed that three or tragic death when his ship was blown up by
four fire ships set sail under the protection Canaris.
of two or three larger warships from Hydra But what is a fire ship? What would today
to attempt the destruction of the Egyptian be qualified as a terrorist weapon was then
fleet in it own base. It was stressed that accepted as valid naval warfare. Fire ships—
if the attack was carried out in the late known as brûlots in French—had been used
afternoon, vigilance would be slack and the successfully during the Russo-Turkish war
Egyptians would be taken by surprise. The as well as by the British.

The Russian certificate allowing the brig Epaminondas

to fly the Russian imperial flag

There was a good wind blowing from

west to northwest and, in order not to be
spotted by the vigils, the flotilla remained
out of sight for the day. In the afternoon they
decided to move towards the Eastern Port,
Mina El Gharby, the ancient Eunostos of the
Ptolemies, reaching its entrance at around
6.30 pm. The wind was still blowing from the
sea, and the first fire ship to approach was the
one captained by Canaris. The harbor pilot
Canaris’ fireship attacking the Turkish flagship in the Port of Chios, after a painting by N. Volanakis
appeared in a rowing boat, as was usual, to
recommended operation was qualified by A fire ship is a small vessel—the Greek help the ship enter safely, without hitting the
Giusti as easy and presenting no danger for ones were between 15 and 20 meters in deadly reefs. He was arrested and placed in
the attackers. With pompous rhetoric, Giusti length—of little value, filled with fuel, and the hold as soon as he embarked. Then a
declared in conclusion: “If you will not dare fitted with special ventilation ducts in order sailing boat with officials on board meaning
this operation, then you are not men but to ensure rapid combustion. The charge was to check the ship’s papers approached the
deserve to be called women.” ignited by a slow match and train of powder, fire ship. Canaris had raised the Russian flag
Lazaros Koundouriotis liked the idea set to fire after a predetermined interval. The and by purposely throwing the line in a clumsy
14 Alex Med Newsletter
 Issue 20

Had the wind kept blowing a quarter of an Rhodes. This second attempt at preventing
hour more, that surprise attack could have an Egyptian attack on the Peloponnesus
changed the course of the Revolutionary War. proved to be a thoroughly disastrous affair
Realizing that the operation was a complete and greatly detrimental to Cochrane’s
failure and, since no damage had been done prestige among Greek captains.
to the Greek flotilla except for Canaris’ fire Days later, Ibrahim landed with his army in
ship which had burned, the other four ships the Peloponnesus and would have put an end
took advantage of the wind blowing from the to the Greek aspirations for independence
land and headed east, towards Rhodes. In had it not been for the naval Battle of
the ship’s log of the brig Epaminondas, it is Navarino fought on 20 October 1827. It is
mentioned that a flotilla of Egyptian vessels, in the deep bay of Navarino in the South-
with Mohamed Ali personally on board, set East Peloponnesus that a combined British,
sail that same night in pursuit of the attackers. French and Russian fleet destroyed the
They kept on their course to Rhodes, trying Turco-Egyptian fleet, thereby putting an end
in vain to intercept the Hydriot ships. Over to the war and permitting the creation of
the next two days, the Greek flotilla met and the modern Greek state. Out of 118 Turco-
destroyed some Ottoman cargo vessels, and Egyptian vessels, 60 were lost, while those
took on board a number of prisoners. All the remaining afloat were seriously damaged. A
prisoners, including the Egyptian pilot, were heavy toll for the Egyptians, with 6,000 dead
later released on the shores of Asia Minor, and 4,000 seriously wounded. None of the
The Port of Hydra today
and the Hydriot ships returned with no further allied ships sunk but several were damaged.
delay to their homeport. At Navarino, Ibrahim Pasha lost nearly
manner prevented them from accosting his
The Hydriots put the blame for their failure the totality of his fleet, but the Ottoman
ship; he continued on his course into the
entirely on bad preparation and reliance on the Empire was so weakened by this defeat that
inner harbor, heading towards five Egyptian
information of a spy who was not a seaman. politically, it benefited Mohamed Ali. He had
frigates anchored near the Palace of Ras El
His proposal of starting the operation before a new fleet immediately built by the French in
Tin.
sunset took into consideration only the crews Alexandria, a proper arsenal was established,
Having deftly handled his sail, Canaris
of enemy ships and activity in the port, where and he gained near independence from the
was only minutes away from his target. He
vigilance would be slack at the end of the Sublime Porte.
intended to set fire to his ship while securing
day; it did not take into consideration the In the long history of Greece and Egypt,
it to one of the enemy frigates, promptly
wind conditions. A tragic mistake. the two failed Hydriot naval attacks on
escaping with his men in the rowing boat
But unbelievable as it may be, a repetition Alexandria and Ibrahim’s belligerence in the
brought in tow. The explosion would create
of that failed attack was attempted only weeks Peloponnesus are the only exceptions to
great confusion in the port, and that would
give the other two fire ships the opportunity
to surprise some of the large men-of-war
anchored in other parts of the port.
But at that critical moment, the wind
dropped leaving Canaris and his brûlot fully
exposed, a few yards from their target. The
strange behavior of his ship had aroused
suspicion and alarmed the port authorities,
who sent out a number of small sailing and
rowing boats against the attacker. Canaris A section of a scale model of a fireship with a scapavia rowing boat in tow
had no other alternative but to bring down
later and ended in a resounding fiasco. The the otherwise friendly and peaceful relations
the Russian flag, hoist the Greek one, and
instigator of this new operation against the between both countries.
prematurely set fire to his explosives while
same Egyptian fleet, in the same port of
desperately trying to push his ship towards a
Alexandria, was a British officer, Admiral 1 Harry Tzalas is a Greek historian born in
closer target: some smaller enemy warships.
Thomas Cochrane, who had been enrolled Alexandria. Within the framework of the
After having dropped completely, the wind
by the Greek provisional government as specialized research institute which he founded
was now blowing in the opposite direction:
chief of the united Greek fleet. Cochrane had for that purpose, he has been leading the
from the shore. Jumping into their rowing
had a stormy naval career. He had fought for underwater archeological surveys of the Greek
dinghy, Canaris and his crew moved as
Chile and Peru and had been instrumental in Mission in Alexandria for well over a decade.
quickly as possible towards the port entrance.
their acquiring independence from Spain. He is also the author of several novels and
Some port launches diverted the burning fire
Cochrane assembled a large number of collections of short stories set in Alexandria.
ship and hastily towed it to the shallows, well
vessels, some twenty-two warships, including * All the illustrations, with the exception of the
away from any Egyptian vessel. Meanwhile,
the Karteria—the only steam-propelled photos of Hydra, were made available by
a multitude of launches armed with rifles
warship existing at that time—and seven courtesy of the Hellenic Maritime Museum.
were in hot pursuit of Canaris. To add to the
fire ships. The fleet arrived in Alexandria on The author has appreciated the assistance of
Greeks’ misfortune, a French man-of-war,
4 June 1827 but lost the effect of surprise its President, Mrs. Anastasia Anagnostopoulou-
L’Abeille, which was anchored just outside
by attacking an Egyptian ship that lay in the Paloumbi, for providing the documentation on
the port, turned its guns not only on the
outer harbor of Alexandria. The ship was set which this article is based. The photos of Hydra
escaping rowing boat, but on the other fire
on fire, but the alarm was soon raised in the are reproduced by permission of the author.
ships and the two Greek escort vessels as
Egyptian port and a number of ships chased
well.
after the attackers as far as the island of
August – October 2010 15
Issue 20

Tourists in
Alexandria Dina Magdy El-Dakhakhny

N
o, I’m not talking about foreigners the varying angles of the structure. Though We walked down Faransa Street and
who come to Alexandria with their time had left its stamp on the houses, one followed the narrow alleys that the infamous
guidebooks, eager to explore our city could still see that they were built by artful serial killer sisters, Raya and Sekina, had
and leave it a couple of days later knowing hands and considerate people. One has only trodden once upon a time. A passerby might
more about it than we do. Nor am I talking to compare them to the monstrosities which have simply walked on without knowing how
about those who come for the weather and rise nowadays up to twenty stories high and important that part of town was, which makes
the beach. In fact, I’m not talking about block out all the light from unfortunate smaller one wonder if one of these days all traces of
foreigners at all. I mean the Alexandrians buildings that share the same location. the past will be lost and nothing will be left to
who have no idea what treasures their city I found it interesting to hear that the remember.
holds and who live like tourists in their own name Karmouz could have originated from On our way we passed a construction site.
city. I am ashamed to say that I am one of kar mos meaning ‘a field of bananas’ just like The workers were supposed to reconstruct
Ras El Tin is a reference to the place where the houses in the same style they were built
figs were planted. in. However one could see that this is not the
It was also interesting to find out that way it is going to be. Houses made of small,
some of our monuments formed a fusion of handmade redbrick were reconstructed with
the Pharaonic, the Greek and sometimes big white cement blocks! By that token, in a
also the Roman cultures. Pompey’s Pillar, couple of years, none of those houses will
erected during the reign of the Emperor remain to be admired by those who interest
Diocletian, was guarded by Pharaonic themselves in the history of their hometown.
sphinxes. Similarly, the equestrian statue The Turkish Quarter, even though
Mahmoudieh Canal of Alexander the Great is guarded by a very shabby and crumbling, was a quite
them! However, I got the chance, along sphinx. Beyond Pompey’s Pillar, the Arab charming. The beautiful arches and the
with most of the fourth year students of the Muslim cemeteries, Karmouz district and latticed windows showed remarkable
literature section of the English Department Mahmoudieh Canal extended in front of us. craftsmanship. We continued on to Neama
at the Faculty of Arts, to change that. We Driving alongside the canal, one felt a great Street where we saw yet more samples
had the great fortune to be able to make a sense of loss. This canal was once a vessel of well built houses that were once upon
tour of the city and get acquainted with its of life. It provided Alexandria with fresh water a time a joy to behold. But joy was not all
quarters that have so much history and yet from the Nile and helped transport goods to we experienced. We were a relatively large
exist unnoticed by the newer generations and from the ports of Alexandria. It was a group of girls walking down a narrow street
inhabiting it today. To our shame, it took a center of life and was flanked on both sides which drew a lot of attention. We were hard
non-Egyptian “Alexandrian”, Gordon Smith, by beautiful houses which had, to our dismay, to miss and were looked at with mistrust and
to open our eyes to the beauty that lies disappeared. The canal has died. The water apprehension by some. By others, we were
dormant in our city. was filthy, with algae floating here and there. openly oggled, called spies and when that
We met in front of the entrance of the Our next destination was El Manshieh
Faculty of Arts and went along the Suez district and from there we made a one hour
Canal Street in Chatby district passing by tour on foot. It was then that I really felt like a
the cemeteries on the left side of the road. tourist in my own city. We started out in front
We then entered Fouad Street, one of the of the building that had once been the seat
oldest inhabited streets in history and tried of the Mixed Courts. Then we started in the
to conjure in our mind’s eye the magnificent direction of the Turkish and Jewish quarters.
houses and villas that existed there in the I’m ashamed to say that I had not been in either
golden era of cosmopolitan Alexandra. in my life and if I hadn’t been informed about
We passed by the house where Lawrence the history and the value they hold, I do not
Durrell lived when he came to Alexandria think I would have ventured there at all. The
and later drove by the Center of Creativity streets are not really inviting and somebody
which was formerly the Mohamed Ali Club, without the necessary historical background
where the rich gentlemen of Alexandria would not have appreciated the houses that
used to go for drinks and cigars, while their would have seemed insignificantly small and
wives went shopping or sat sipping their tea drab. Fortunately, we had Gordon Smith with
across the street at Baudrot’s. From there, us, who was kind enough to show us the
we proceeded to Bab Sedr then to Karmouz different styles of the buildings and gave us
district with its typical Italianate houses that the necessary background information that
were constructed in zigzags so that each made us able to appreciate the beauty such The Arab Muslim Cemetries of Karmouz showing
house could get enough sunlight through streets and houses have held of old. Pompey’s Pillar in the background

16 Alex Med Newsletter

 Issue 20

did not force a response, we were offered on Alexandrian history, even though not the stories passed on from one generation to
to be shown apartments. One elderly man necessarily always a good one. Such houses the next, then one day when people are no
was under the impression that, being of could very well appeal to tourists and locals longer interested to hear about their history
marriageable age, we were all looking for alike and prove lucrative to our city. or when stories are forgotten, so will all our
apartments and furnishing. Wherever he got One after the other the old houses history. Stories alone cannot suffice. We
that notion one has to wonder. and beautiful villas are torn down, taking need visible reminders of our enchanting
We finally saw one of the few remaining with them bits and pieces of our history. In past. We need something to inspire us to
street signs of the Rue des Soeurs. Our tour our materialistic world, sentimental, historical move forward by emulating the time when
on foot ended at Saint Catherine’s Square. and aesthetic values are not recognized. A integrity, tolerance and plurality were the
From there we were taken by bus to the skyscraper housing countless families is a norm. We need to protect our identity and
house where Lawrence Durrell had lived far more fruitful investment than a restored make sure that we pass down the legacy of
and written The Alexandria Quartet. One villa. The problem is that the history of Alexandria, the “Pearl of the Mediterranean”,
would have thought that this house would Alexandria is being effaced in the process. to future generations.
have been maintained but apparently that is If there is nothing to document it, other than
hoping for too much. The house was in ruins.
Some parts had no roof and even though the
house has gates and the grocer who was
settled in front of it made us feel like he was
guarding the single gateway to an esteemed
institution, we were very surprised to discover
as we took a few steps further around the
corner that the fence remained only at the
front of the house. The once large house had
belonged to the Italian Ambron family who
let the upper floor and the tower to Durrell.
It made us all wonder why such sites as this
one and the house of Raya and Sekina were
not looked after and made accessible to the
public. Their inhabitants had left their mark The Center of Creativity, formerly the Mohamed Ali Club

‫املن�ش�آت التجارية مبدينة الإ�سكندرية‬

‫أيمن جمال الجوهري‬
‫الفنادق والوكاالت يف الع�صور الإ�سالمية‬
‫ وكان عليه تسديد رسوم التجار للسلطان‬،‫أمام الدولة‬ ‫تركز معظمها بالقرب من باب البحر وهى تنقسم‬ ‫عرف اإلنسان األسواق منذ القدم حيث أقيمت في‬
.8‫والتي يرصد جزء منها لإلصالحات وصيانة المبنى‬ ‫إلى قسمين فنادق خاصة بالتجار المحليين وفنادق‬ ‫أول األمر في ساحات المعابد ثم روعي عند تخطيط‬
‫كما كان للقنصل حرية اختيار المشرفين على شئون‬ ‫ فمن الفنادق المحلية فندق الموز‬،‫خاصة باألجانب‬ ‫ إال أنه‬،‫المدن أن يترك مكان فضاء إلقامة السوق‬
‫الفندق وكان يرجع إليه في حسم القضايا‬ ،‫ وفندق الطبيبة‬،‫الذي كان يقع بشارع المرجانيين‬ ‫ ومع تطور‬.1‫لم يكن قد تحدد بعد شكل معين للسوق‬
‫ وكان‬،‫والخصومات داخل الفندق‬ ،‫ وفندق الدماميني بسوق الجوار‬،‫وفندق الجوكندر‬ ‫األنشطة التجارية بين األفراد والشعوب وقد استدعى‬
‫مقره في فندق دولته بالثغر‬ ‫كما أقام نائب السلطنة باإلسكندرية قجماس اإلسحاقي‬ ‫هذا التطور ظهور منشآت تجارية لمواكبة هذا التطور‬
‫ كما عمل في‬.9‫المصري‬ ‫ أما الفنادق‬.7‫خانا خارج باب رشيد لنزول المسافرين‬ ‫ ومن هذه المنشآت ما عرف فى‬.‫واتساع حركة التجارة‬
‫الفندق بعض الفئات المحلية‬ ‫الخاصة باألجانب فكانت عبارة عن منشآت تهبها‬ ‫الحضارة اإلسالمية باسم الوكاالت والفنادق والخانات‬
‫مثل المغربلون والكيالون‬ ‫ تستطيع الدولة أن تستردها‬،‫الحكومة للتجار األجانب‬ ‫ ويبدو أن المؤرخين العرب في العصور‬.‫والقيساريات‬
‫ باإلضافة إلى‬،‫والحمالون‬ ‫ وكانت هذه الفنادق تتبع إدارة‬،‫وقتما تشاء‬ ً
،‫فروقا واضحة بين هذه المباني‬ ‫الوسطى لم يالحظوا‬
‫المترجمين والبريديين‬ ‫الجمارك وكان «الفندقي» يدير شئون‬ ‫كما الحظوا أنها تتشابه في وجود بناء أو حوش في‬
‫الذين يستخدمون في‬ ‫ بينما القنصل هو المدير‬،‫الفندق‬ ‫ وقد‬،‫وسطها وحول الحوش ممر يصل إلى مخازنها‬
‫توصيل الخطابات بين‬ ‫المسئول عن الفندق‬ ‫تتكون من طابقين ودكاكين ومساكن لكل منها مفتاح‬
‫ هذا‬.10‫األقاليم المختلفة‬ ‫ وقد اعتبر بعض الباحثين الوكالة والخان‬،2‫خاص‬
‫وقد تعددت فنادق‬ .3‫والفندق والقيسارية مسميات مختلفة لمسمى واحد‬
‫وعرفت الفنادق والوكاالت في المدن باسم الخان‬
‫ كما عرفت في فارس واألناضول باسم‬،‫أو القيسارية‬
‫«مسافر خانة» و«كرفان سراي» بمعنى «منزل‬
‫ والفندق منشأة تجارية ومؤسسة لخدمة‬.4»‫القافلة‬
‫ ويعد الفندق قمة ما وصلت إليه طاقة‬،‫التجارة‬
‫المشروعات التجارية في مصر والشام في العصور‬
.5‫الوسطى حتى نهايتها وفترة من العصر العثماني‬
‫ وشاع استعمال‬،‫هـ‬200 ‫ظهر الفندق في مصر قبل عام‬
‫هذا النوع في عهد الدولتين األيوبية والمملوكية وإن‬
.6‫كانت بداية ازدهاره تعود إلى العصر الفاطمي‬
‫وقد أنشئت بمدينة اإلسكندرية العديد من الفنادق‬
August – October 2010 17
‫مسجد ووكالة الشوربجي في باسكال كوست‬
‫‪Issue 20‬‬

‫السفلي يضم الحواصل والعلوي يضم البيوت وليس‬ ‫أما الوكاالت‪:‬‬ ‫الجاليات األجنبية بمدينة اإلسكندرية فذكر بنيامين‬
‫لها إال واجهة واحدة هي الواجهة الجنوبية الشرقية‬ ‫مقتصرا‬
‫ً‬ ‫يبدوا أن استعمال مصطلح «وكالة» كان‬ ‫التطيلي ‪ 18‬دولة كانت تتعامل مع اإلسكندرية‪ ،‬لكل‬
‫وهي الواجهة الرئيسية‪ .23‬كما تشتمل على فنائين‬ ‫على مصر دون غيرها من بلدان العالم اإلسالمي‪،‬‬ ‫منها فندق فى الثغر‪ .11‬فكان هناك فندفان للبنادقة يقعان‬
‫مكشوفين‪ ،‬ويغلق عليها أيضا مصراعين من الخشب‪.‬‬ ‫ثم انتقل منها إلى بلدان أخرى كبيزنطة وأسبانيا‬ ‫بحي البنادقة «البندقيين»‪ .12‬وواحد لكل من الجنويين‬
‫والبرتغال‪ ،‬وقد وردت أول إشارة لهذا المصطلح‬ ‫والبيزيين‪ ،‬وللفلورنسيين‪ ،‬وأنكونا وبالرمو‪ ،‬ونابولي‪،‬‬
‫في وثائق الجنزا ترجع إلى القرن ‪5‬هـ‪11 /‬م ثم بني‬ ‫باالشتراك مع تجار جايتا‪ ،‬وأما الفرنسيون فكان لكل‬
‫‪ .1‬عماد عبد الرؤوف الرطيل‪ :‬القاهرة العثمانية ووكاالتها‬ ‫المأمون البطائحي دار الوكالة بين سنتي ( ‪-516‬‬ ‫من مرسيليا وناربون واراجوزا ومعهم قطالونيا فندق‬
‫التجارية‪ ،‬مصر‪2003،‬م‪ ،‬صـ‪.7‬‬ ‫‪531‬م‪1137 -1122 /‬م)‪ .‬ثم انتشرت بعد ذلك في‬ ‫خاص بهم‪ ،‬وآخر لكريت‪ ،‬كما كان هناك ً‬
‫فندقا إلفريقيا‬
‫‪ .2‬نعيم زكي فهمي‪ :‬طرق التجارة الدولية ومحطاتها بين الشرق‬ ‫وآخر للقبارصة وثالث لأللمان‪ ،‬وكان لألتراك ً‬
‫والغرب ‪(:‬أواخر العصور الوسطى) ‪ ،‬القاهرة‪1973 ،‬م‪ ،‬صـ‬
‫العصر األيوبي والمملوكي وشارك بعض سالطين‬ ‫فندقا‪،‬‬
‫‪.286‬‬ ‫وأمراء الدولة المملوكية في تشييد هذه الوكاالت مثل‬ ‫وآخر للمغاربة وثالث للتتار لتجارة العبيد‪.13‬‬
‫‪ .3‬علي محمود سليمان المليجي‪ :‬مجمل تاريخ التراث المعماري‬ ‫وكالتا قايتباي‪ ،‬ووكالة األمير قوصون‪ .‬كما قامت‬ ‫وقد اتصفت فنادق اإلسكندرية بأنها كانت من‬
‫اإلسالمي في مصر‪،‬اإلسكندرية‪2003،‬م‪ ،‬صـ ‪.333 ،332‬‬ ‫بعض السيدات بإنشاء العديد من الوكاالت مثل وكالة‬ ‫أضخم مباني الثغر‪ ،‬بحيث تبدوا كالحصون المنيعة‪،‬‬
‫‪ .4‬سعد زغلول‪ :‬العمارة والفنون في دولة اإلسالم‪ ،‬اإلسكندرية‪،‬‬ ‫تاج الملوك بنت الظاهر بيبرس‪ ،‬ووكالة عائشة خاتون‬ ‫حتى إن بعض الجمهوريات األجنبية كانت تبني فنادقها‬
‫‪1986‬م‪ ،‬صـ‪.483‬‬ ‫ووكالة نفيسة البيضا من العصر العثماني‪ .‬وكانت‬ ‫على نمط فنادق األجانب باإلسكندرية‪ .14‬فكانت فنادق‬
‫‪ .5‬نعيم زكي فهمي‪ :‬المرجع السابق‪ ،‬صـ ‪.288‬‬
‫‪ .6‬عماد عبد الرؤوف الرطيل‪ :‬المرجع السابق‪،‬صـ‪.12‬‬
‫الوكالة كالفندق تستخدم للتجارة والسكنى ونزول‬ ‫اإلسكندرية عبارة عن مباني مربعة‪ ،‬ولبعضها أكثر‬
‫‪ .7‬السيد عبد العزيز سالم‪ :‬تاريخ مدينة اإلسكندرية وحضارتها‬ ‫المسافرين مع بضائعهم‪ ،‬كما اتخذت بعض الوكاالت‬ ‫من طابق‪ ،‬ولكل فندق فناءًا داخليًا مكشوف‪ ،‬يفتح عليه‬
‫في العصر اإلسالمي‪ ،‬اإلسكندرية‪1982،‬م‪ ،‬صـ‪.506‬‬ ‫مصانع ألصحاب الصناعات الحرفية اإلنتاجية‪.20‬‬ ‫الطابق األرضي حيث توجد به المخازن ويستخدم في‬
‫‪ .8‬نعيم زكي فهمي‪ :‬المرجع السابق‪ ،‬صـ ‪.289-288‬‬ ‫وقد عرفت اإلسكندرية العديد من الوكاالت استخدمت‬ ‫تفريغ وحزم السلع‪ ،‬أما الدكاكين فهي ؟؟؟؟؟ وتستخدم‬
‫‪ .9‬صبحى ليب‪ :‬الفندق ظاهرة سياسية‪ ،‬إقتصادية‪ ،‬قانونية‪ ،‬بحث‬ ‫جنبًا إلى جنب مع الفندق منذ العصر المملوكي فعلى‬ ‫كمخازن كذلك‪ .‬وفي والطوابق العلوية حجرات إلقامة‬
‫في كتاب مصر وعالم البحر المتوسط‪ ،‬إعداد وتقديم رؤف‬ ‫سبيل المثال ذكر النويري وكالة الكتان قبالة جامع‬ ‫أشجارا‬
‫ً‬ ‫التجارة ويحيط بالفندق حديقة يزرع بها التجار‬
‫عباس‪ ،‬ط‪ ،1‬مصر‪1986،‬م‪ ،‬صـ ‪. 294-293‬‬
‫‪ .10‬صبحى ليب‪ :‬المرجع السابق‪ ،‬صـ ‪.296-295‬‬
‫العطارين‪.21‬‬ ‫من أوطانهم‪ ،‬كما كان يضم قاعة عامة تستخدم كديوان‬
‫‪ .11‬السيد عبد العزيزسالم‪ :‬المرجع السابق‪ ،‬صـ ‪.505‬‬ ‫ومن الوكاالت المشهورة الباقية بمدينة اإلسكندرية‬ ‫لعقد االتفاقيات الخاصة بين التجار األجانب والوطنيين‪.‬‬
‫‪ .12‬السيد عبد العزيزسالم‪ :‬المرجع السابق ‪ ،‬صـ ‪.506‬‬ ‫والتي تعود إلى العصر العثماني وكالة تربانة بمنطقة‬ ‫وضمت هذه الفنادق كنائس إلقامة الصلوات‪ .15‬كما‬
‫‪ .13‬نعيم زكي فهمي‪ :‬المرجع السابق ‪ ،‬صـ ‪.289‬‬ ‫المنشية حيث قام الخواجة إبراهيم بن عبيد تربانة‬ ‫مخبزا وحمام‪ .16‬وال يستعبد احتواء‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ضمت كذلك‬
‫‪ .14‬صبحى ليب‪ :‬المرجع السابق ‪ ،‬صـ ‪.292‬‬ ‫المسراتي فى سنة ‪1105‬هـ‪1693 /‬م ببناء ثالثة‬ ‫الفنادق المحلية على زاوية صغيرة إلقامة الصلوات‬
‫‪ .15‬نعيم زكي فهمي‪ :‬المرجع السابق ‪ ،‬صـ ‪،289‬‬ ‫وكاالت باالضافة إلى مسجده المعلق أسهمت فى‬ ‫الخمس‪.‬‬
‫‪.291،292‬‬
‫‪ .16‬صبحي ليب‪ :‬المرجع السابق ‪ ،‬صـ ‪.292‬‬
‫تحويل المنطقة إلى سوق تجاري ضخم وقد ارتبطت‬ ‫وكانت بعض فنادق األجانب تخصص الستعمال‬
‫‪ .17‬ح‪ .‬هايد‪ :‬تاريخ التجارة في الشرق األدنى في العصور‬ ‫إلى حد كبير بديوان الجمرك الذي كان قريبًا من‬ ‫الحجاج المسيحيين الذاهبين لبيت المقدس حيث يتم‬
‫الوسطى‪ ،‬ترجمة أحمد رضا محمد رضا‪ ،‬مراجعة عز الدين‬ ‫المسجد‪ .‬حتى أنه خصص بعض الوحدات السكنية‬ ‫إنزالهم بهذه الفنادق نظير أجر معين‪.17‬‬
‫فوده‪ ،‬جـ‪ ،3‬مصر‪1994 ،‬م‪،‬صـ‪.305‬‬ ‫بإحدى وكاالته لليهود نظراً لما تميزت به هذه المنطقة‬ ‫وكان لكل فندق موظف مسئول عن غلق الباب‬
‫‪ .18‬ح‪ .‬هايد‪ :‬المرجع السابق‪ ،‬جـ‪ ،3‬صـ ‪.303‬‬ ‫من كثافة الوجود اليهودي بسبب عملهم فى ديوان‬ ‫عند حلول الليل وال يسمح ألي إفرنجي بأن يبيت‬
‫‪ .19‬صبحي لبيب‪ :‬المرجع السابق‪ ،‬ص‪.300‬‬ ‫الجمرك‪ .22‬وتتكون هذه الوكالة من فناء مكشوف‬ ‫خارجه‪ .‬كما كان الفندق يغلق أثناء صالة الجمعة وال‬
‫‪ .20‬للمزيد انظر‪ :‬عماد عبد الرؤوف الرطيل‪ :‬المرجع السابق‪،‬‬
‫صـ‪.21-15‬‬
‫تحيط به مجموعة حواصل (دكاكين) يعلوها طابقين‬ ‫يسمح ألحد من نزالئه بالخروج منه لعدة ساعات يوم‬
‫‪ .21‬السيد عبد العزيزسالم‪ :‬المرجع السابق ‪ ،‬صـ‪.506‬‬ ‫تشغلهما وحدات سكنية‪ .‬ولم يتبق من الوكاالت الثالثة‬ ‫الجمعة‪.18‬‬
‫‪ .22‬حسام عبد المعطي‪ :‬العائلة والثروة البيوت التجارية المغربية‬ ‫إال وكالة واحدة‪ .‬لهذه الوكالة مدخل كان يغلق عليه‬ ‫إال أن ظاهرة الفندق بدأت تتدهور نتيجة لتدهور‬
‫في مصر العثمانية‪ ،‬مصر‪2008 ،‬م‪ ،‬صـ ‪.361-360‬‬ ‫مصراعين من الخشب‪.‬‬ ‫العالقات بين مصر ودول الفرنج المتاجرة معها‪ ،‬حتى‬
‫‪ .23‬عوض عوض محمد اإلمام‪ :‬اآلثار و األمالك المعمارية‬ ‫ومن الوكاالت األخرى الشهيرة والباقية بمدينة‬ ‫انخفض عددها في نهاية القرن ‪15‬م إلى ثالثة فنادق‬
‫لعبد الباقي جوربجي بمدينة اإلسكندرية‪ ،‬مصر‪1993،‬م‪،‬‬ ‫اإلسكندرية وكالة عبد الباقي جوربجي (الشوربجي)‬ ‫فقط‪.19‬‬
‫صـ‪.85-84‬‬
‫وهى تشغل مساحة مستطيلة وتتكون من مستويين‬

‫‪18‬‬ ‫‪Alex Med Newsletter‬‬

 Issue 20

EFalafel
g y por ta’ameya
tian
Falafel are a kind of fried vegetarian ball or patty generally made from ground chickpeas. The Egyptian variety is prepared using
fava beans and is often referred to as ta’ameya. Falafel may be eaten alone as a snack, usually served inside flat pita bread with salad or tahini
(ground sesame seed paste), or as part of a mezze, a collection of small dishes served as an appetizer to a main meal.
Being vegetarian, falafel are especially eaten by Copts in Egypt during Lent, but are also a popular food served during Ramadan at iftar, the
meal served at sunset to break the fast.
Falafel has become a common street dish, or Oriental fast food, in many Middle Eastern countries, with variations in the ingredients used.
Its widespread popularity has even meant that in Egypt the fast food chain of restaurants McDonald’s now serves a vegetarian burger falafel,
which it has appropriately named McFalafel!

Ingredients
2 cups of broken fava beans known as foul madshoosh
½ cup of finely chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup of finely chopped coriander
¼ cup of finely chopped dill
1 cup of finely chopped onion
2 chopped cloves of garlic
1 teasp dry coriander
½ teasp baking soda
Salt and pepper to taste
A pinch of cayenne pepper or chili powder (optional)
Sesame seeds (optional)
Oil for frying

Preparation
Wash the fava beans thoroughly and soak them for at least two days, changing the water about 4 times during this period until the water is
clear. Drain the beans ready to make the paste.
Wash the fresh parsley, coriander and dill well. Remove any thick stalks and then chop the herbs.
Chop the onion and garlic.
Place the beans in a food processor and grind finely until they reach the consistency of thick peanut butter. Set them aside.
Place the fresh herbs, garlic and onion in the food processor, blend well and then add the ground beans and process until the mixture looks
green.
Transfer the whole mixture into a bowl and add the remaining dry ingredients (except the sesame seeds), mixing well. Cover the bowl and allow
the mixture to rest for at least 30 minutes.
Form the mixture into small flattened balls or patties. This can be done using a large soup spoon. If adding sesame seeds, sprinkle the top of
each falafel with the seeds before pushing it off the spoon into the hot oil.
Fry them in hot vegetable oil for 2-3 minutes until golden brown on one side, then turn them over and fry again. Remove the cooked falafel from
the oil and drain on paper towels.

August – October 2010 19

Issue 20

20 Alex Med Newsletter