Replacing Harp Strings

About Strings String composition

Harps strings do not have a predetermined lifespan—an • Mid and upper ranges: nylon monofilament
individual string can last anywhere from a few weeks to a • Lower mid range: nylon core with nylon wrap
few years or even longer. You can help your harp strings last • Bass strings on 32- and 36-string harps: phosphor
longer by keeping your harp out of direct sunlight (UV rays
bronze wire core with nylon wrap.
can damage nylon). Even so, it isn’t unusual to break a string
from time to time. • Bass strings on 34-string harps: steel core with wire wrap
• Bass strings on Serrana 34: nylon core with wire wrap
The wound strings on your harp are custom-made, so please
• The gut string option has gut from the upper bass range
contact your harp dealer or Dusty Strings for replacement
to the lower treble range.
strings. We include a string chart with each harp showing the
string number, string gauge and note name for that harp. We About Tuning Pins
also mount another small string chart discreetly inside the Your Dusty Strings harp will have one of the following types
soundbox as a permanent record of the string set. of tuning pins:
Caution: Use of nonrecommended strings may increase the
tension on your harp and put its integrity at extreme risk,
voiding the warranty.
tapered tuning pin
In addition to replacing the occasional broken string, you may
want to replace strings that have gotten old and stretched out.
Signs of old strings include:
• If a string sounds dull. threaded tuning pin
• If it’s hard for your
electronic tuner to tell Tapered friction pins: Harps have traditionally used
what the note is. tapered friction pins for tuning. These pins work by being
• If a wound string begins tightly pressed into a tapered hole in the harp neck, much
to unwrap. like a violin peg. They can work loose due to changes in
• If the nylon wrap on a temperature or humidity, from getting bumped in transport,
wound string stretches
or from general day-to-day use. If a tuning pin becomes
over the bridge pin
loose and won’t hold its pitch, it can be re-seated using the
(figure 1).
following technique: Down-tune the string by half a turn and
• If you notice an overall
then tune it back up to pitch, adding a slight back and forth
loss in the harp’s tone.
wiggle, all the while pressing inward as hard as you can. This
We recommend that you will set the pin farther into the neck, providing the friction
Figure 1: Wrap length
remove and replace a few needed to hold pitch against the tension of the string. If you
strings at a time rather than taking them all off at once. On
can’t get the needed tightness, enlist the help of someone
a number of our models, the string tension alone is what
who has greater arm strength. If a pin gets pressed in too
holds the neck and pillar onto the soundbox. If all the strings
are removed at once, the two major sections of the harp will tightly, it can be loosened by pushing in on the string end of
come apart. the pin while tuning the string down (counterclockwise).
Threaded tuning pins: In late 1998, Dusty Strings began
Dusty Strings makes five types of strings. Please use the using threaded tuning pins instead of tapered friction pins.
instructions that correspond with the type you are replacing. These pins do not depend upon a tight set in a tapered hole
to hold the string, thus eliminating the occasional need to re- strings, or make a spline Figure 3: Starting a nylon string
seat the pins. They are grooved with a very fine screw thread by snipping 1” off of a
inside the neck, and while they look very much like traditional .055” gauge string.
taper pins, they do need to be treated slightly differently.
Exceptions: For .050” and .055”
When replacing strings, you need to back the pin out, as if
you are “unscrewing” it, by about three or four turns before strings, tie a harper’s knot and
putting the new string on. Since every clockwise turn of the use a leather washer instead of a
pin will advance it by .010” into the wood, this step needs to spline. (Be sure to save the washer
be taken in order to maintain an even line of pins. from the original string and reuse
it.) For .025” and .028” gauge
Eyelets
strings, tie an extra loop around the
Eyelets are the little brass grommets in the soundboard that
the string passes through. They are under a lot of tension finished loop.
a: Pass the loose end of the string
and will sometimes crack or bend, so whenever you change See knot-tying videos on behind the vertical portion.
a string, it is a good idea to inspect the eyelet to make sure it our website for more help,
is in good condition. If not, we have packs of replacement or see https://DStrings.
eyelets available, so give us a call with the harp model, serial link/stringbuttons for an
number, and string number. If a string is missing its eyelet, alternate method that is
or if it is badly cracked, take the tension off that string easier on the hands.
immediately. Without the eyelet, the string will start to dig
into the wood of the soundboard, and it is better to catch this 5. Grasp the free end of the
early. Figure 2: Tying the harper’s knot
string and pull the knot
snugly against the inside
To Replace Nylon Loop 1 Loop 2 of the soundbox.
Monofilament or Gut
Strings: 6. Thread the free end of
b: Pull the loose end toward the back
the string through the of the harp . . .
1. Wear eye protection. If your
tuning pin.
harp has threaded tuning
String end
pins, remember to back the 1. Starting ½” to ¾” from 7. Pull the string straight up
pin out by 4 turns (refer the end of the string, until it is taut, and then
to Tuning Pins section for make two identical loops. pull the free end of the
more information). If you string toward the back of
skip this step, the pins will Loop 2 Loop 1 the harp, half way around
advance too far into the the tuning pin, and pass it
neck, which could result in between the neck of the
repeat broken strings.
harp and the vertical part
2. Remove any remnants of of the string below the
String end
the old string from the tuning pin (figure 3a).
soundboard, inside the Pull to tighten Exceptions: In order to have c: . . . and then straight up.
soundbox, and the tuning enough loose string to get three
2. Put loop 2 over (around)
pin. Using your tuning or four wraps around the tuning
loop 1. Hold the knot in
wrench, align the hole in the one hand while pulling pin, the 025”, .028”, and .032”
tuning pin vertically. the string to tighten knot. strings need to be slack before
3. Insert the new string being wound onto the tuning pin.
through the string hole For .025 and .028 strings, leave
in the soundboard, from enough slack so that you can pull
front to back. Reach String end
the string 1.5” -2” from its vertical
around through one of the d: Start to wind the string onto the
line (figure 3e). For .032” strings, tuning pin, making sure it wraps
soundholes and pull it out Spline leave a half inch. in toward the neck of the harp.
a bit so you can work on it
3. Insert spline as shown 8. Pull the string end toward
outside the soundbox.
and further tighten the back of the harp and then straight up. Hold it firmly
4. Tie a harper’s knot and knot. Spline can be
in this position (figures 3b and 3c).
insert a spline in the bottom made by cutting a ¾”
of the string (figure 2). Reuse length of .050” or .055” 9. Begin to tighten the string, making sure the wraps wind
the splines from the original monofilament string. on toward the harp neck (figures 3d and 4). The first turn
 should pass over and Figure 3e: Leave some slack and pass it between the neck of the harp and the vertical
secure the string end. You part of the string below the tuning pin (figure 3a).
can let go of the string 6. Pull the string end toward the back of the harp and then
end, as you have now straight up. Hold it in this position (figures 3b and 3c).
locked it in place. 7. Begin to tighten the string, making sure the wraps wind
10. Cut off the free end on toward the harp neck (figures 3d and 4). The first turn
as close to the wrap should pass over and secure the string end.
as possible with nail 8. You can let go of the string end, as you have now locked
clippers or wire cutters. it in place.
Extra length is not only 9. Before the string is taut, make sure it is passing around
unnecessary but may the correct side of the bridge pin and through the
scratch you or your harp. Figure 4: Wind the string toward sharping lever (figure 5).
11. Before the string is taut, the neck. 10. Cut off the free end as close to the wrap as possible
with nail clippers or wire cutters. Extra length is not only
make sure it is passing
unnecessary but can scratch you or your harp.
around the correct side
11. Continue turning the pin until the string is up to pitch.
of the bridge pin and
through the sharping lever
(figure 5). To Replace Bronze Core/Nylon Wrap Strings or
12. Continue turning the pin Steel Core/Wire Wrap Strings:
until the string is up to Caution: Phosphor bronze tends to be brittle. You can
pitch. The monofilament unwind and rewind nylon strings if necessary to get the coils
strings stretch quite a bit, Figure 5: Tuning pin, bridge pin, on the tuning pin just right, but phosphor bronze strings are
and sharping lever likely to break at the tuning pin hole if you attempt to correct
so they need to be tuned
a sloppy winding job. Be careful, take your time, and don’t
every day for a week tune bronze strings over pitch.
or two until they hold
1. Wear eye protection. If your harp has threaded tuning
pitch. You can hasten
pins, remember to back the pin out by 4 turns (refer to
the stretching process Tuning Pins section for more information). If you skip
if you want by tuning a this step, the pins will advance too far into the neck,
new monofilament string which could result in repeat broken strings.
slightly over pitch during
2. Remove any remnants of the old string from the
this initial tuning period soundboard, inside the soundbox, and the tuning pin. Be
(up to 20 cents sharp). careful when removing the razor-sharp pieces of wire.
Use fine-nose pliers if necessary. To remove a string from
To Replace Nylon inside the soundbox, twist and wiggle the ball-end of the
Core/Nylon Wrap string while pulling firmly until the string comes free.
Strings: 3. Using your tuning wrench, align the hole in the tuning
1. Wear eye protection. If your harp has threaded tuning pin vertically.
pins, remember to back the pin out by 4 turns (see Tuning 4. Uncoil the new string a safe distance away from your
Pins section). If you skip this step, the pins will advance harp, so that if it springs open, it won’t scratch your
too far into the neck, which could result in repeat broken harp. From the inside of the soundbox, carefully feed the
strings.
string through the hole in Figure 6
2. Remove any remnants of the old string from the the soundboard until the
soundboard, inside the soundbox, and the tuning pin.
leather washer rests firmly
Using your tuning wrench, align the hole in the tuning
pin vertically. against the inside of the
soundboard.
3. Insert the new string through the string hole in the
soundboard, from back to front. Pull the leather washer 5. Thread the free end of
snugly up against the inside of the soundbox. the string up through the
4. Thread the free end of the string through the tuning pin. tuning pin.
5. Pull the string straight up until it is taut, and then pull 6. Pull the string taut, and
the free end of the string toward the back of the harp snip the string with wire
(toward the soundbox), half way around the tuning pin,
 cutters about two inches above the tuning pin (figure 6). To Replace Nylon Core/Wire Wrap Strings:
Exception: For string #36 (low C) on the FH36S or FH36B, and 1. Wear eye protection. Remember to back the pin out by 4
string #34 (low C) on the FH34, turns (see Tuning Pins section). If you skip this step, the pins
Crescendo 34 and Ravenna 34, Figure 7
will advance too far into the neck, which could result in
there is not enough length to snip repeat broken strings.
any off. Just leave those strings as 2. Remove any remnants of the old string from the
they are and go on to step 7. soundboard, inside the soundbox, and the tuning pin.
Using your tuning wrench, align the hole in the tuning
7. Slide the string back pin vertically.
down through the 3. Insert the new string through the string hole in the
tuning pin until the tip soundboard, from back to front. Pull the leather washer
is flush with the top of snugly up against the inside of the soundbox.
the tuning pin (figure 7). 4. Thread the free end of
While holding the string the string through the Figure 11
in place with one hand tuning pin, making sure
and your tuning wrench to stop just before the
in the other, begin wrapped section reaches
winding the string onto the tuning pin hole (see
the tuning pin. Figure 8 figure 11). If you pull it
8. Pinch the string against the through any farther, you end of wrap
will end up with a kink in
tuning pin as the string is being
the wrapped section of
wound on (figure 8). This puts the string, and this can
some tension on the string and cause the wrap to break
gives it tight, even coiling. You and the string to sound Figure 12
want the coils to lie evenly side buzzy.
by side (figure 9). The 5. Holding the string in
Figure 9
metal core should not be place with one hand, use
“locked” under the first your tuning wrench to
wrap as on other types of start winding the string
onto the pin (see figure 12).
strings. Avoid having the
Pinch the string against
string cross over itself at the tuning pin as you
all as it winds around the wind to get tight, even Figure 13
tuning pin. coils, and make sure the
9. Before the string is all coils progress towards the
the way taut, make sure neck of the harp.
Figure 10 6. Before the string is all the
it is passing around the
correct side of the bridge way taught, make sure
it is passing around the
pin and through the
correct side of the bridge
sharping lever (figure 10). pin and through the
Caution: Wind very slowly, sharping lever (see figure 13).
plucking the string all the 7. Use nail clippers or wire cutters to trim the free end of
while to make sure you don’t the string close to the tuning pin.
go above pitch. Metal core strings don’t stretch like nylon and
will come up to tension faster than you expect.

Be sure to call us with any questions! Rev. 6/21/21

Dusty Strings
3450 16th Ave. W., Suite 200, Seattle, WA 98119 • 866-634-1656 • www.dustystrings.com