ICG Webster
ICG Webster
ICG Webster
A
A
B
7/27/2004 .9 : 1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30'
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages N/A N/A DATE SCALE GENERAL ARRANGEMENT
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 1 OF 21
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1.656
1.953
2.688
B .813 B
.196 THRU
82 X .385 (FS)
4.625 5.281
4.938
1.904
R.250 TYP
ALL RADII
(OPTIONAL)
.144 THRU
82 X .279 (FS)
(4) HOLES
5.438
.107 THRU
TAP #6-32 (2) HOLES
A
A
3.938
.375
8.125
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator 125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' ANODIZE, ALUMINUM BASE PLATE
DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages DYE BLACK ALLOY (1) REQD.
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 2 OF 21
drawing.
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5.625
2.125
4.750
2.500
2.000 .500
.089 THRU 2.500
.290 TAP #4-40 1.250
1.090 2.000
1.250 1.406
.375
.250
2.433
1.063 .719
4.750
.107 .50
1.125 .500
TAP #6-32 (2) HOLES
A
A
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator 125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' ANODIZE, ALUMINUM SIDE FRAME & CRANKSHAFT
DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages DYE BLUE ALLOY SUPPORT (1) EACH REQD.
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 3 OF 21
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FRONT VIEW BORE 1.000
HIDDEN LINES REMOVED RIGHT VIEW .116 THRU REAR VIEW BOTTOM VIEW
.500
TO IMPROVE CLARITY 82 X .225 .875
(4) HOLES
.500 .159 .75
R.250 TYP
TAP #10-32
(2) RADII
(OPTIONAL)
.188 THRU
TO BORE
.625 SPOT
.015
.089 .313
B 2.750 TAP #4-40 (2) HOLES
B
.375
1.813 .875 2.000 .688
.348 THRU
1.250 TAP 10MM X 1MM
.107 .438 FOR NGK CM-6
TAP #6-32 (2) HOLES SPARK PLUG - OR -
DRILL .213 AND
TAP 1/4-32 CYLINDER HEAD-FRAME
MATERIAL: ALUMINUM ALLOY
.750 .375 .313 FINISH: ANODIZE, DYE BLUE
.750 (1) REQD.
.750
.250 1.500
1.500 NOTES:
A 1.000*
.159 *SNUG SLIDING FIT .188 PORT HOLE
A
TAP #10-32 IN CYL. HEAD-FRAME SEE NOTES FOR DETAILS
RIGHT VIEW #4-40 TAPPED HOLE
SEE NOTES
2.000 .500 CYLINDER (1) REQD. (4) HOLES
FRONT VIEW
MATERIAL: 12L14 STEEL OR CAST IRON SPOTTED FROM
TOP VIEW FINISH: HI-TEMP BLACK PAINT ON CLY. HEAD-FRAME
VISIBLE EXTERIOR - TBD @ ASSY.
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' CYL. HEAD-FRAME & CYLINDER
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator SEE ABOVE SEE ABOVE DATE SCALE
(1) EACH REQD.
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 4 OF 21
drawing.
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CRANKSHAFT .314
1.250 MATERIAL: CRS R.875 (OPTIONAL)
FINISH: AS NOTED
(1) REQD. .156
.500 3.250
.136 .438
TAP #8-32 FOR CRANKPIN
.500
GREASE CUP
B B
.047
.281
.313 POLISH JOURNAL
.031
POLISH SHAFT IF USING
.375 BRONZE MAIN BEARINGS .219 .625
.218 (APPORX.)
SECTION A-A TBD @ ASSY.
A 1.125
.500
3.750 (REF)
.313
.188
2.750 (2) PLCS
(2) PLCS
.625
CRANKSHAFT SPACER
MATERIAL: CRS
.313 FINISH: N/A
(REAM)
(1) REQD.
.031
.313 .375
(REAM) .063 UPON
BORE .500 .188 ASSEMBLY TO
A .250 TO RECEIVE FRAME
(2) PLCS CAM DRIVE .500 A
GEAR SPIGOT
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator 125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' CRANKSHAFT, FLYWHEEL, CRANK
SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages SPACER AND MAIN BEARING
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 5 OF 21
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R.188
.094 TYP
B 1.000
.873 .250
.094 TYP
.750
B B
.771 (REF) .688 .688
.063
PISTON
SCALE: 2:1
MATERIAL: 6061-T6 ALUMINUM
FINISH: FINE TURNED FINISH, DO NOT POLISH,
MICRO-GROOVES HELP TO HOLD OIL
(1) REQD.
B
7/27/2004 AS NOTED
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30'
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE PISTON AND PISTON OIL TUBE
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 6 OF 21
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CONNECTING ROD
MATERIAL: 6061-T6 ALUMINUM
FINISH: POLISH .219 .188
(1) REQD. 3.063 (2) PLCS
CHAMFER
.375 .015 X 45
1.50° (2) PLCS
.375
B .850 .094 B
.010
(2) PLCS
.250 R.125 TYP WRIST PIN
.563
(4) PLCS
.356
SCALE: 2:1
MATERIAL: DRILL ROD
FINISH: HARDENED, TEMPERED & POLISHED
(1) REQD.
.063
.031 DRILL AFTER PRESSING
.250
.313 WRIST PIN BUSHING INTO
.156 ROD
.313
.250
.375
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' CON ROD, BUSHINGS, WRIST
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages PIN, AND CON ROD ASSY.
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 7 OF 21
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.089 THRU
.047
TAP #4-40
OIL HOLE .250 1.35
.125 7°
.063
(APPROX)
.125 .015
.010
R.13
.250
B .144
B
2.047 .250
.125
2.157 2.172
.105 (APPROX.)
.250 .844 .254 .185
TBD @ ASSY. .063
.050
.375
.250 (REAM)
.125 .938 .562
A
A
ROCKER ARM SPACER TAPPET CAM SHAFT EXHAUST CAM
SCALE: 2:1 SCALE: 2:1 MATERIAL: DRILL ROD MATERIAL: CRS
MATERIAL: CRS MATERIAL: 3/8" X #4-40 S.S. SCREW FINISH: HARDEN, TEMPER, POLISH FINISH: CASE HARDEN, POLISH
FINISH: N/A FINISH: THIN HEAD TO DIM. SHOWN (1) REQD. (1) REQD.
(1) REQD. (1) REQD.
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' ROCKER ARM, SPRING, WASHER,
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 8 OF 21 SPACER, TAPPET, CAM SHAFT, & CAM
drawing.
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.375 .313
MACHINE FOR LIGHT PRESS .688 (REAM)
FIT WITH CAM. .187
.250
IGNITION CAM
.375 MATERIAL: CRS
FINISH: BREAK SHARP EDGES
.500 .063 (1) REQD.
B B
CAM GEAR WASHER
MATERIAL: CRS #6-32
FINISH: N/A TAPPED HOLE
(2) REQD. FOR SET SCREW
.375
.500
MACHINE FOR LIGHT PRESS
FIT INTO FLYWHEEL.
.188
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' GEAR MODS, C.G. WASHER, IGNITION
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE
CAM, C.G. & FLYWHEEL ASSY.
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 9 OF 21
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VALVE BLOCK
(1) REQD. INTAKE VALVE BLOCK
.500 .313 THRU (1) REQD.
.188
1.000 COUNTERBORE
.375 .031
C C .125
.313
B B
.125 .625
.250 .500
.281 THRU
.089 THRU
(4) HOLES .089 THRU .219
.313 82 X .172 .188
.500 (4) HOLES - SPOTTED
.438 1.000 FROM VALVE BLOCK *
SECTION C-C
.094
.094 .813
D DRILL .188 .500
THROUGH PORT, INTO
.116 THRU GUIDE AFTER LOCTITING
82 X .225 AND PRESSING GUIDES INTO
A (2) HOLES PLACE.
A
.125 .500
D SECTION D-D
B
7/27/2004 2:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator 125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' ALUMINUM VALVE BLOCK, INTAKE VALVE BLOCK,
NATURAL DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages ALLOY & EXHAUST VALVE BLOCK
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 10 OF 21
drawing.
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SECTION E-E
.375 .094 (REAM) .187
.094
VALVE RETAINER
SOME HIDDEN LINES REMOVED TO IMPROVE CLARITY MATERIAL: STEEL
FINISH: BLUED
(2) REQD.
MACHINE 45 X .015 VALVE SEAT -
.313 LAP VALVE TO VALVE GUIDE USING
FINE VALVE GRINDING COMPUND .250 .094
.031
UPON FINAL ASSY.
B
7/27/2004 2:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' VALVE GUIDE, VALVE ,
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages VALVE RETAINER, VALVE SPRING
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 11 OF 21
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.125
.188 .094 .188 .750 .375
DRILL .070
TAP #2-56 .188
.094
.156
.093 I.D.
.063
.375
.354 .219
.125
.250 .140
.250
.031 .313 A.F.
.250
20° (APPROX)
A .250
A
VENTURI
MATERIAL: BRASS
(1) REQD.
B
7/27/2004 2:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' VENTURI & NEEDLE VALVE
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages ASSEMBLY
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 12 OF 21
drawing.
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1.500
.875 1.313 .219
.375 O.D.
.188
.170
.500
1.000
B .129 30.00°
.250 B
.875
(4) HOLES .625 CON ROD KEEPER
.344 I.D. MATERIAL: .015 THK. BRASS OR STEEL
HEAD GASKET 2.250 (1) REQD.
MATERIAL: .015 COPPER, TEFLON,
OR STD. AUTO GASKET STOCK.
(1) REQD. EXHAUST PIPE
MATERIAL: ALUMINUM, BRASS, OR STEEL
FINISH: POLISH
.031 DRILL .030 THRU, (1) REQD.
THEN .302 .300
.313
DRILL .063 THRU
THEN .250 .250
.313
THRD. 5/16 X 40 TPI
.094 .063 .375
.188 .325
.031 STRAIGHT KNURL FINE
.375
.188
.313
.344
.165
THRD. #8-32 .360 BORE .272 .313
.131 .250
THRD. 5/16 X 40TPI
THRD. #6-32
A
CRANK OILIER CUP CRANK PIN GREASE CUP BODY
CRANK PIN GREASE CUP CAP
A
MATERIAL: BRASS MATERIAL: 5/16" HEX BRASS
FINISH: POLISH MATERIAL: BRASS
FINISH: POLISH FINISH: POLISH
(2) REQD. (1) REQD.
SCALE: 2:1 (1) REQD.
SCALE: 2:1 SCALE: 2:1
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' HEAD GASKET, EXH. PIPE, CRK. KEEPER,
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE
CRK. OILER & GREASE CUP ASSY.
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 13 OF 21
drawing.
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.188
.500
B B
.394 *
* SIZED TO FIT CHOICE OF CARBURETOR. THROUGH
EXPERIMENTATION IT WAS FOUND THAT THE ENGINE
.188 .250 RUNS BEST WITH RATHER A SMALL BORE CARB. I USED
45.00° A CARB FROM AN O.S. MAX .12 CZ RADIO CONTROL
CAR ENGINE THAT HAS A BORE OF .166" AND IT GIVES
.500
.188 THRU
AN RPM RANGE OF ABOUT 1000 - 5000 RPM.
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' CYL. OILER & CARB. ADAPTER,
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator SEE NOTES SEE NOTES DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 14 OF 21
drawing.
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B B
A
A
B
7/27/2004 1.5:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' RIGHT SIDE VIEW
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator N/A N/A DATE SCALE
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 15 OF 21
drawing.
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B B
A
A
B
7/27/2004 1.5:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' N/A LEFT SIDE VIEW
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
N/A DATE SCALE
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 16 OF 21
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B B
A
A
B
7/27/2004 1.5:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' FRONT AND REAR VIEW
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
N/A N/A DATE SCALE
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 17 OF 21
drawing.
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B B
A
A
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose.
125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30' TOP VIEW
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages N/A N/A DATE SCALE
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 18 OF 21
drawing.
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The following notes aren't meant to be comprehensive, step-by-step SHEET 5. cont. - The three .750" holes are for appearance only, as a matter of fact, I skipped them
building instructions, just a few notes on how and why I did things. altogether on the prototype engine. A nice cosmetic touch would have been a spoked flywheel,
but since it would require a rotary table for the mill, I didn't bother. Again, feel free to experiment.
If you choose not to use ball bearings to support the crankshaft, then you will have to make the two
SHEET 1. Just a few views to show the general arrangement of parts. bronze MAIN BEARINGS as shown. Aim for a light press fit into the SIDE FRAME and CRANKSHAFT SUPPORT.
Using Loctite as good measure, press them in with the flanges toward the inside of the engine, making
SHEET 2. BASE - This is the engine baseplate. Since all engine parts mount and sure to align the oil holes with the #6-32 tapped oil cup holes. (Alternatively, wait until bearings are in
align off of this, it is suggested that the holes be layed out and located place before dilling the .063" oil holes.)
somewhat accurately. Notice that the countersunk holes are on the bottom
of the plate. The external dimensions can be altered to suit as long as the hole Also on this sheet is the CRANKSHAFT SPACER - adjust thickness on final assembly for .001" to .003" of
spacings for the engine frame remains the same. crankshaft endplay.
B B
SHEET 3. SIDE FRAME & CRANKSHAFT SUPPORT - Again, try to stick to the dimensions SHEET 6. PISTON & OIL TUBE - The ring grooves in the PISTON were sized for the rings mentioned
given, as these parts, along with the BASE make up the backbone of the engine. elsewhere in these plans. 1/16" wide rings would offer less friction and probably seal just as well -
Alignment of the remaining engine parts rely on good workmanship here. Also, the simply adjust the ring grooves to accomodate. Use a 3/8" endmill to machine the con rod slot, being
bearing and cam shaft holes need to be sized for light press fits of their respective careful not to go beyond the .688" dimension because you may cut into the lower ring groove. Be
parts and accurately placed for proper gear spacing. sure to drill the wrist pin perpendicular and on the exact centerline of the piston - this is not the time
to rush things. (Make sure the con rod slot is going in the right direction.) Small #4 set-screws are used
SHEET 4. CYLINDER HEAD-FRAME & CYLINDER - Nothing especially difficult here, to retain the wristpin in it's bore. The OIL TUBE is simply a short section of brass tubing, Loctited into
but two things are worth noting. There are two options given for a spark plug - use the piston as indicated.
whatever you are comfortable with. I started with the tiny 1/4"-32tpi sparkplug
because it is also the same size of a model airplane engine glow plug which I could SHEET 7. Nothing too remarkable here. Just be sure to drill both CON ROD holes at the same
use to start the engine on glow fuel (without having to rig oiling and an ignition setting and size the BUSHINGS for a light press fit into the rod ends - use Loctite for added security.
system). I then switched to spark with gas and oil mix, and quickly fouled this tiny Drill the .063" hole in the wrist pin end after the bushing is installed. Be sure this hole is pointed up
spark plug. So I redrilled and retapped for a 10mm x 1mm NGK CM-6 spark plug that (towards the OIL TUBE, and ultimately towards the CYLINDER OILER) upon final assy.
I could get from my local motorcycle dealer for a lot cheaper.
SHEET 8. The EXHAUST CAM started out as a .185" thk. disk of steel .712" in diameter with a reamed
The cylinder bore is the other item that needs particular attention - make sure to .375" hole though it. It was offset turned on the lathe as described by Hamilton Upshur in Volume 79
bore it straight and without any taper. Finish within .002" of size, drill port and oiler of Strictly I.C. magazine. There are many other methods - use whatever you are comfortable with.
holes (using cyl. head-frame as a guide), then lap to a finished size of .875". Simple The plans call for hardenening of many parts, i.e. CAMSHAFT, CAM, ROCKER ARM, etc... This not
laps can be fabricated or purchased, and details on how to use them can be necessary, but doing so should result in a longer wearing engine.
found on the Internet, in the model engine newsgroups/web sites.
When making the CAM SHAFT, shoot for a press fit into the engine frame and a free rotating fit with the
SHEET 5. CRANKSHAFT, FLYWHEEL, SPACER, and BEARING - I made my crankshaft CAM GEAR. Alternatively, you could use a set screw though the bottom of the SIDE FRAME to retain
from a 5" section of 1/2" X 1 1/4" Cold Rolled Steel, both shaft and crankpin were the CAM SHAFT in it's bore.
turned between centers, but it could be fabricated and silver solder together
from three pieces if you wanted to go that route. Also, notice that it's not SHEET 9. Modify CAM GEAR and CAM DRIVE GEAR as shown. Use Loctite and press them to their
counter-balanced for ease of construction - a lot smoother engine would result respective parts. The position of the gear teeth are not important at this stage - the engine will be
if you took the time to redesign the crank and add the appropriate wieghts. timed on final assembly. When making the IGNITION CAM, round off the sharp edges created when
The end of the crankpin is drilled and tapped to receive the grease cup - don't milling the flat spot - it is this flat that operates the ignition points. Use a short #6 set-screw to hold this
forget the tiny crossdrilled hole, and to polish the journal. CAM to the crankshaft - see assembly notes for locating details.
The flywheel can be made from cast iron, CRS, bronze, etc... - any heavy metal SHEET 10. The INTAKE & EXHAUST VALVE BLOCKS are nearly identical with one exception - the four holes for
should work fine. I chose cast iron, in the form of a dumbbell that I purchased from
A the #2 screws. I used studs screwed into the EXH. VALVE BLOCK so my INT. VALVE BLOCK had only though
Wal-mart. Be careful if you take this approach as there can be small voids/casting
flaws where it matters - I was lucky and none presented any problems. Be certain
holes - no coutersinks. Doesn't really matter what you choose, just make sure all mating surfaces are flat
and smooth so you won't need gaskets or messy sealers. The 3/16" port holes aren't drilled until the VALVE
A
when boring the .500" counter bore that it's concentric with the crankshaft bore, GUIDES (shown on sheet 11) are pressed in.
and that the modified CAM DRIVE GEAR is a snug fit - it will need to be pressed and
Loctited in place. See sheet #9 for details.
B
7/27/2004 1:1
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125 +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30'
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
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SHEET 11. Onto the VALVE GUIDES - make sure your 3/32" reamed holes are concentric with the The assembled valve block can now be attatched to the head - no sealer is required
valve seats. To cut the valve seats, I simply used a 90 chamfering bit in the lathe's if both surfaces are flat and smooth. Exhaust valve timing is set by rotating the crankshaft
tailstock and lightly touched it to the rotating valve guide, creating a narrow valve seat which counter-clockwise (as viewed from the cam side) until it is about 15 - 30 before
was later lapped to the valve. I used brass for the guides on the prototype engine, but I think it's outward most stroke. It is then held in place while the flywheel is rotated C.C. until
bronze or cast iron would be a better choice. the cam just starts to lift the exhaust valve off of it's seat. Clamp, lock, & secure everything
in place and drill the two roll pin holes as shown on the next sheet. If set properly, the
The VALVES were made one piece out of whatever steel I had laying around. Stainless steel exhaust valve will close a few degrees before TDC.
would be a great choice, or two piece vavles can be fabricated and silver soldered together.
Timing the IGNITION CAM is much simpler. With the points and ignition cam installed,
SHEET 12. Do yourself a favor and skip building this VENTURI and NEEDLE VALVE ASSY. While OK set the points gap to about .020". Rotate the flywheel until the piston is about 15
for initial starting and breaking in - much better results can be had from conventional throttling before TDC. Loosen the set screw on the ignition cam and rotate it clockwise until the
carburetors - either ones from radio control glow engines, or ones fabricated to work like one. points close and just start to open, lock the ignition cam in place.
B Shoot for a small bore carb, something from a .10 - .15 ci 2-stroke glow engine or one with a
bore of .156" - .188", you won't need anything larger than this. The INTAKE and EXHAUST pieces are simply pressed and Loctited in place for sake of simplicity
B
and I haven't had a problem with them so far.
SHEET 13, 14. Nothing special here, just the remaining components that will need to be
fabricated. If you're careful about machining the cylinder spigot and it's fit into the head, Finish assembly with the oilers, spark plug, igntion condenser, etc... Check that all moving
you may not need a head gasket - I used one for good measure. The design of the exhaust parts are free, and that you have compression / no leaks. Rotating the flywheel
pipe is mostly cosmetic - I like balogna cut pipes, but do whatever you wish here. (Originally counter-clockwise (viewed from the flywheel side) should produce a "snorting" sound
I had second thoughts about pointing the exhaust back, but it was actually found to have through the carburetor as the intake valve lifts. As you pass TDC on the compression stroke
a benefit - the unburned oil in the exhaust helps to keep the gears and cam lubricated.) the engine should feel "bouncy" or "snappy", indicating good compression and that your
engine is ready to run. Some folks like to break-in their engine by driving them with an
The CRANK OILER CUP and the CRANK PIN GREASE CUP were purchased from a vendor at electric motor, or even connected to the lathe spindle. If yours is free enough, it shouldn't
Cabin Fever - unfourtunately I don't remember who it was. Approximate dimensions are be necessary to do this.
given should you wish to fabricate your own.
STARTING and RUNNING - I use a 12 volt car coil and 12 volt battery for my ignition system
The CYLINDER OILER is an optional item if you mix oil in your fuel. Again, there are other, because I don't want any doubts whether it's firing or not. I have a 1 oz. fuel tank set so that
more attractive designs out there, but this was a quick and dirty way to do it. the fuel level when full is about 1/4" lower than the needle valve. My engine runs good
on straight Ozark Trails camping lantern fuel with 5w-30 motor oil in the cylinder oiler.
Also shown is the optional RC CARB ADAPTER... highly recommended. (Some folks run straight methanol, some run gasoline and oil mix - do whatever works for
you. ) If you use the oiler, set it so that it drips oil about once every 6-10 seconds -
ASSEMBLY - Assembly should pose no particular problems, however it is suggested that the experimentation may be in order to find the right setting to limit smoke, fouled plugs, oily
parts be made in the order that they are presented on the plan sheets. Although I've tried mess, etc... When using an RC carb set at about 1/8 throttle, my engine starts on the first
to be thorough with the notes on the plans themselves, a few points are worth mentioning. flip and will rev like crazy when prompted. Keep in mind, this is not a high speed engine,
there's no balancing and inadequate cooling, so keep the speeds low.
Press the bearing(s) and CAM SHAFT into the SIDE FRAME, slide on one CAM GEAR WASHER,
the CAM GEAR ASSY (with the CAM pointing towards the frame) followed by another SUMMARY - This engine was designed to be easy & quick to build, so there are no fancy
washer, and secure with a cotter pin. Be sure that the gear spins freely on the shaft - adjust radiuses, complicated governors, forced cooling, exotic materials, etc... It's a bare-bones
as necessary. internal combustion engine in the rawest form. As a matter of fact, mine isn't even
painted. Sure, I specify to anodize this, polish that, etc... it's not necessary for operation,
Attach the ROCKER ARM (with TAPPET in place) to the SIDE FRAME using the shoulder screw, but it would be a nice touch don't ya think? If someone took their time and incorporated
washer, and spacer. Fasten on the CYL. HEAD-FRAME and secure this assembly to the BASE a few cosmetic details, it would be a pretty decent looking engine (I should know, I did
PLATE. Attach the CRANKSHAFT SUPPORT (with bearing(s) in place) to the BASE PLATE. just that in CAD).
Assemble the CRANKSHAFT, CRANK SPACER, and FLYWHEEL ASSY. - at this point the crank should
A spin freely, independently of the flywheel - we will adjust timing and secure this later.
A
The CYLINDER, it's gasket, and the piston/rod assy. must be installed as one group. Slide the
piston/rod assy. into the cylinder, and with the crank at BDC, slide the big end of the rod onto
the crank pin. Rotate the crank while moving the assy. forward, into the head's bore (don't
forget to align the ports). Secure the cylinder to the head, then attach the GREASE CUP using
the CON ROD KEEPER like a washer. You did remember to make sure the oil holes in the rod
and piston were pointing up, didn't you?
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose. +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30'
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
125 N/A N/A DATE SCALE NOTES, PG. 2
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 20 OF 21
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B IGNITION CONDENSER:
B
(1) REQ.
SOURCE: SOURCE: PEP BOYS, AUTOZONE, NAPA, ETC...
(1969 DODGE CHARGER, 383, 4BL, W/SINGLE POINT DIST.)
CRANKSHAFT BALL BEARINGS: 5/16" I.D. X 1/2" O.D X 5/32" THK., FLANGED CRANKSHAFT SPACER
SOURCE: W.M. BERG: P/N B2-21 -OR- STOCK DRIVE PRODUCTS: P/N A 7Y55-FS5031 SIZED FOR .OO2" CRANK
(4) REQD. END PLAY
PISTON RINGS - 3/32" X .875"
(2) REQD. EXHAUST VALVE TIMING IS SET BY ROTATING
SOURCE: OTTO GAS ENGINE WORKS CRANKSHAFT COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO ABOUT 15
(410)-398-7340 BEFORE BOTTOM DEAD CENTER. ROTATE FLYWHEEL (AND
2167 Blue Ball Rd CAM GEAR) UNTIL THE EXHAUST VALVE JUST STARTS
Elkton MD 21921-3330 TO LIFT, AS SHOWN. CLAMP / LOCK IN PLACE,
http://www.dol.net/~dave.reed/otto.html THEN DRILL FOR, AND INSTALL ROLL PINS.
A
A
B
7/27/2004 1:1
This drawing may be freely used or modified for any non-profit purpose. +/- .015 +/- .005 +/- 30'
All accuracy and safety issuses are the users responsibility. The originator
and the provider are not responsible or liable for any losses or damages
125
E513 ALUMINUM DATE SCALE NOTES PG. 3
incurred from the creation or use of the products contained in this SURFACES 2 PLC DEC 3 PLC DEC ANGLES JBW 21 OF 21
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End Cap Filler Cap
2.500 Material: Brass .125 Material: Brass
Drill .047
(2) Req. hole in center (1) Req.
1.250 Scale: 1:1 of cap for vent
.063
1.000
.375
.939 45.00°
SURFACES
.015
2 PLC DEC
.005
3 PLC DEC
30'
ANGLES
POLISH BRASS DATE
JBW
SCALE
1 OF 1
A WEW Fuel Tank
NUMBER
REV DESCRIPTION BY DATE TOLERANCE UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED FINISH MATERIAL DETAILER SHEET NO. SIZE
Webster Engine Works Single Cylinder 4
Stroke Gas Engine
Introduction / Background:
Specifications:
This shot shows the valve block, head, and Here we see a completed piston, rocker arm,
venturi / needle valve. I later went with a and the start of the cylinder. Boring and
carburetor from a radio control car engine honing the cylinder was one of my major
because it gave me much better speed and stumbling blocks, but it turned out to be not
mixture control. The spark plug hole was much of an issue. I used 12L14 leaded steel
tapped 1/4" X 32 tpi so that I could use either for the cylinder (which cut like butter) and
glow or more traditionally, spark ignition. The 6061-T6 for the piston. The piston rings came
valve blocks and engine frame were made from Otto Gas Engine Works, and the ball
from 6061-T6 aluminum, the valve guides bearings & gears from Stock Drive Products.
and venturi from brass (although bronze Hidden behind the large brass gear is the
would have been a better choice for the valve exhaust cam.
guides).
This picture kind of gives you a sense of scale.
Just a close-up of the piston showing the rod The rod, made from more 6061-T6, is 3.063"
cut out and the two 4-40 tapped holes for the between centers. Profiling of the rod ends
wrist pin set screws. Notice the small brass was done without the aid of a rotary table.
tube? At the end of the piston's stroke, this Basically the end to be profiled was attached
tube aligns with the cylinder oiler and to a snug fitting, vertical pivot on the milling
supplies lubrication to the wrist pin - this was machine and the rod swung by hand against
done on full-size, antique, gas engines, and it the side of a running end mill. (Needless to
works in smaller scale too. say, this is rod #2.) Check this link for a better
explanation and even a nice photo. The wrist
pin is .188", drilled through .094" and both
ends of the rod are bronze bushed.
Here's a 3D rendering that I did in Solidworks OK, here's a semi-exploded view of all of the
showing the valve-train detail. As mentioned parts. Just where do you get a chunk of cast
earlier, the intake valve (on top) is actuated iron large and cheap enough to make a
by the vacuum created by the piston on it's flywheel this size (3.75" dia.)? Well Walmart
outward stroke. Compression, combustion, of course... in the sporting goods section,
and subsequent exhaust pressure keeps the disguised as a dumbbell. One word of caution
valve closed during their respective cycles. though, it's a pretty cheap casting that has a
The exhaust valve is operated by the steel few voids - luckily none of them caused any
cam attached to the brass gear and is timed problems though. The crankshaft started out
to open on the exhaust about 15 degrees as a piece of CRS flatbar 1.5" X .5" X 5" and
before BDC and to close the exhaust valve a both shaft and crank pin were turned as one
few degrees before TDC. piece, between centers.
"It lives, I have created life!" What you see Another shot, taken the same day. Notice the
here is the engine just after it's first run on small pits in the depressed section of the
model airplane fuel (10% nitromethane, 18% flywheel, these are some of the voids that I
oil, balance methanol) and glow ignition. The mentioned above. Also notice the small
first few runs were pretty short as the piston section of broken roll pin in the right
to cylinder fit was still fairly tight, and the foreground. This was the roll pin that held the
engine would slow to a stop as the aluminum flywheel to the crankshaft, but it had sheared
piston heated and expanded in the bore. while running. Even though I had planned on
Check out the oily mess that glow-fuel leaves using two 3/32" cross-drilled roll pins to
behind... great for breaking-in a new engine, attach the flywheel, in my haste to get the
but quite the chore to clean up. The date was engine running, I only took the time to affix
January 3rd, 2004. one. Lesson learned. The engine now uses
two roll pins (one each on opposite sides of
the flywheel) and they have held up fine.
Here were are running on gas and spark In this photo you can see the RC carb retrofit
ignition. Originally, I was using a 1/4" X 32 tpi and the NGK CM-6 spark plug (10mm X 1mm
spark plug, but it was too easy to foul, too pitch). I run this engine on straight Ozark
hard to get, and too darned expensive (~$15) Trails lantern fuel, which is the Walmart
to replace. I've drilled and retapped the head brand of the popular Coleman fuel - only a
for a 10mm NGK CM-6 spark plug. With it's dollar a gallon cheaper. I use regular 5w-30
larger electrode and insulator it's pretty hard motor oil in the cylinder oiler. I have also
to foul and only $3 to replace at my local tried running the engine on straight gasoline,
Honda motorcycle dealer. Photo was taken but since it is less refined than the lantern
on July 12th, 2004 and at that time, nearly a fuel, it just plain stinks when running - the
gallon of fuel has been through the engine. lantern fuel almost has a pleasing smell.
(At an average of 14 minutes per ounce, Anyone who has been to Cabin Fever knows
that's about 28 hours of run time.) what I'm talking about. (Or is that just me?)
Just a right side view showing the general Left side view showing the purchased grease
arrangement and the spot where I ran an end cup for crank pin lubrication. You unscrew the
mill into the cylinder as I was spot-facing for knurled cap, pack it full of grease, then screw
the oiler threads. (D-Oh!) The base plate was it back onto the "cup", forcing grease through
sawed out of 3/8" thick plate of anodized a small hole in the crank pin, lubricating the
aluminum - not pretty, but it works. (I picked pin and bearing. Just give it a quarter turn or
up close to 150 lbs of aluminum plate and bar so before each time you start it. (Hey, it's how
from a farm auction for $15 - just one of they used to do it in the good ole days.) See
those rare days when I was in the right place the curved slot on the lower right of the
at the right time). Oh yea, the fuel tank was engine frame? That was to be used for the
soldered up from brass tube and bar stock, adjustable electronic ignition, but I decided it
holds about an ounce, and I'm kinda happy was easier to stick on a set of old fashioned
with the way it turned out. ignition points than to fuss with hall effect ICs
and driver circuits. Breaker points are much
more forgiving of "user error" than ICs!
Here's a close-up of the valve block showing Anybody recognize these? I had read that
the springs, valves, valve guides, rocker arm, points for any early Mopar product would
and the RC carb adapter. The valves are mild work nicely for model engines, so I walked
steel, with .093" stems and .250" heads. The into my local auto parts store and asked for a
valve stems are cross-drilled .040 for the set of points and condenser for a 1969 Dodge
spring retainer pins. The intake and exhaust Charger, 383, 4 bbl... It wouldn't have been
ports are .188". Also, the carb has a rather too cool to ask for something from a Dodge
diminutive bore of about .166", which is fine Volare'! The kid behind the counter looked at
for an engine such as this. Oh, I almost forgot me kinda funny and said, "Oh, I won't have
to mention, the intake valve spring is anything like that." I pressured him to look
relatively light to allow it to be self-operating. anyway, and whattaya know... he had 'em in
When you crank the engine over by hand, you stock. (The cost for both were around $10
should hear a "snort" as the intake valve US.)
opens and draws air through the carb.
Just a rear view to show the cam gears. And a view to show the back of the cylinder - I
So what lubricates these babies? Mostly kinda like the perspective of this shot. If you look
unburned oil from the exhaust - you closely at the end of the rod, you can see the
know, whatever blows by the rings hole in the rod that receives oil from the cylinder
coming from the cylinder lubricator. If lubricator above it. That's grease splattered onto
the gears look a little dry, I'll put a drop the back of the piston from the crank pin grease
or two of oil on 'em. Yea, I know, it's cup.
crude, but it works... (Looks like it's time
to fill the grease cup again, too.)
Pros: Cons: