FGC-9 MkII GuideV2

The GataLog
PRESENTS
FGC-9 mk II
Powered by weaponized autism™
Published by
The GataLog
April 16 th , 2021
Document version: 1.0
Author of this document:
JStark1809
E-Mail: [email protected]
Co-Designers of the FGC-9 MkII:
JStark1809
IvanTheTroll
3 socksandcrocs
Website: https://www.deterrencedispensed.com/
Special thanks to:

- An unnamed individual
- All members, fans and supporters of Deterrence Dispensed
- Designers whose creations inspired and influenced the FGC-9 MKII
- In particular Derwood for coming up with the Shuty AP9 design,
on which the FGC-9 MkI and FGC-9 MkII core mechanisms are based on
Contents
Technical specifications and features ............................... 4
Message from the author ............................................. 6
3D-Printing ......................................................... 7
Printed parts list ................................................ 8
Tools, materials and parts ......................................... 17
Materials ........................................................ 21
Fire control group components .................................... 28
General parts .................................................... 29
Recommended accessories .......................................... 35
Ammunition ......................................................... 36
Visual overview of the components .................................. 38
Making the barrel .................................................. 39
Suppressor ......................................................... 41
Making the charging handle ......................................... 46
Making the firing pin .............................................. 50
Melting in the thread inserts ...................................... 66
Making the bolt .................................................... 68
Drilling the lower bolt rod ...................................... 69
Welded Bolt Option ............................................... 74
Weldless Bolt Option ............................................. 92
Drilling the charging handle recess ............................. 110
Preparing the Fire control group .................................. 114
Modifying Chinese Glock Mag Springs ............................... 124
Assembling a magazine ............................................. 128
Assembling the lower .............................................. 131
Assembling the bolt assembly ...................................... 144
Assembling the barrel assembly .................................... 146
Assembling the upper .............................................. 149
Assembling the stock assembly ..................................... 156
Final assembly .................................................... 160
Test firing and maintenance ....................................... 165
Troubleshooting ................................................... 167
Troubleshooting Failures to Extract ............................. 168
Firing Pin Troubleshooting ...................................... 172
Technical specifications and features
FGC-9 MkII
Type: Pistol caliber carbine
Designers: JStark1809, IvanTheTroll, 3socksandcrocs
Designed: 2020-2021
Mass(without magazine): 2.2kg
Length: 520mm
Barrel length: 114mm
Cartridge: 9x19mm Parabellum
Action: Closed bolt straight blowback
Feed system: 25 round box magazine, 33 rounds with OEM Glock magazines
4
Non-reciprocating charging handle with bolt-hold-open position
Single-point sling mount
Ambidextrous 3 D-printed SEMI/SAFE

magazine release fire control group
Pistol grip with acessory compartment
NATO accessory rail
M-Lok
NATO
rail
Extended length
magazine relase
3D-printed
25 round magazine
5
Message from the author
“ What we do now,
echoes in eternity”
– Marcus Aurelius
I hope that you appreciate the time and effort that was put
into this project as well as the risks that were involved.
If you had success in producing your FGC-9 or simply

appreciate the effort of empowering the common man with
firearms, consider donating to the developers of this
project.
Even a tiny donation will be appreciated. Any funds donated

help with future developments and improvements.
DONATION LINKS:
JStark1809
https://ctrlpew.com/donate-to-jstark/
Bittube:Tubed6E8i2J7pPp1MuASSjZpUkmunPcZgEogo1
6dggDWS7KFSt4dq9TAM9aTyVAGBrhM1gwvsafoX9rjM
Mc1RstVgHko8Sy9iy3
IvanTheTroll
https://ctrlpew.com/donate-to-ivanthetroll/
6
3 D-Printing
If you have never used a 3D-printer before and/or have never owned one
refer to appropriate guides for beginners that include recommendations
on what 3D-printer to buy and further relevant information:
- https://thanksmianews.com/die-besten-3d-
druckern/
-
your-first-3d-printer-and-how-to-use-it/
- https://thanksmianews.com/die-besten-3d-druckern/
Once you’ve figured out how to print basic things that you can
download from sites like thingiverse.com, you can go ahead.
The next pages contain the general suggested settings for your printed
parts. You can deviate from these settings based on your 3D-printer,
consistency of PLA filament and general experience with 3D-printing.
These settings were optimized for Creality Ender 3 printers in

combination with the use of the Cura slicer program (V4.8.0).
The FGC-9 was designed to be printed in PLA/PLA+.

Printing it in a material other than this could result in an
unreliable, fragile or unsafe firearm. Consider this your warning!
Filament type: PLA (Recommended PLA brands on page 21)

Nozzle size: 0.40mm
Layer height: 0.16mm
Infill density: 100% (99% when using Cura, for shorter print time)
Nozzle temperature: 230°C +-5°C
Bed temperature: 60°C
The orientation of the parts in the slicer program will load up as

intended. Do not change the orientation of the .stl models inside
your slicer program unless you know what you’re doing.
After printing each part, make sure to get rid of any edges and
artifacts that result out of the nature of 3D-printing. Before you
install any 3D-printed components make sure to insert and remove items
from their destined place on the receiver multiple times to make sure
that they move smoothly if they are intended to do so, which is the
case, for example, for the bolt housing. So if a part does not fit or
move in the manner you would expect, try to smoothen the surface of
the 3D-printed object and get rid of any squished edges with your
craft knife.
7
Printed parts list
Use this section as a checklist to ensure you’ve printed all parts.
Charging Handle
Fan Speed: 100%
Generate Support: ☑
Support Overhang Angle: 45°
Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt
NOTE:
Charging Handle Bushing
Fan Speed: 100%
No support
Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim
NOTE:
Barrel Retainer
Fan Speed: 80%
NOTE:
8
Drilling Jig Solid Half
Fan Speed: 100%
No support
NOTE:
Drilling Jig Hole Half
Fan Speed: 100%
No support
NOTE:
Recess Jig
Fan Speed: 100%
No support
NOTE:
Headspacing Jig
Fan Speed: 100%
No support
NOTE:
Only for this part

Infill Density: 20%
9
Welding Jig
Fan Speed: 100%
No support
NOTE:
Only print for weld option
Bolt Housing
Fan Speed: 50%
NOTE:
Only print for weld option
Weldless Bolt Grinding Jig
Fan Speed: 80%
No support
NOTE:
Only print for weldless option

Needs to be printed twice(2x)
Weldless Bolt Housing
Fan Speed: 50%
NOTE:
Only print for weldless option
10
Feed Ramp
Fan Speed: 50%
No support
NOTE:
Ejector
Fan Speed: 0% / OFF
No support
NOTE:
Magazine Catch Bar
Fan Speed: 100%
No support
NOTE:
Magazine Catch Button
Fan Speed: 100%
Only for this part,

Support X/Y Distance: 0.5mm
REVERT BACK TO DEFAULT VALUE
AFTER YOU PRINTED THIS PART!
11
Magazine Catch Pivot Pin
Fan Speed: 100%
No support
NOTE:
Disconnector
Fan Speed: 20%
NOTE:
Fire Selector Drum
Fan Speed: 20%
No support
NOTE:
Fire Selector Lever
Fan Speed: 20%
NOTE:
12
Hammer
Fan Speed: 20%
NOTE:
Trigger
Fan Speed: 20%
NOTE:
Pistol Grip Lid
Fan Speed: 100%
NOTE:
Pistol Grip
Fan Speed: 80%
NOTE:
13
Lower Receiver
Fan Speed: 50%
NOTE:
Upper Receiver
Fan Speed: 50%
NOTE:
Buffer Tube
Fan Speed: 50%

The support rod printed with this part
should be kept on hand, as it will be
used in the assembly of the firearm.
Stock
Fan Speed: 80%
No support
NOTE:
14
Buttplate
Fan Speed: 80%
No support
NOTE:
Top Rail
Fan Speed: 0% / OFF
No support
NOTE:
Magazine Locking Tab
Fan Speed: 35%
No support
NOTE:
Magazine Base Plate
Fan Speed: 35%
No support
NOTE:
15
Magazine Follower
Fan Speed: 35%
NOTE:
Magazine Body
Fan Speed: 0%
NO Support
NOTE:
Only for this part,

Wall Line Count: 8
REVERT BACK TO DEFAULT VALUE
AFTER YOU PRINTED THIS PART!
16
Tools, materials and parts
NOTE: A 3D-Printer and related tools are assumed to be already in your possession
Tools
Digital caliper
- A digital caliper that is able to give

you accurate measurements
It should be able to display the
measurements in millimeters
It is recommended that you buy
a high quality caliper such as:
Mitutoyo 500–196–30
Recommended source:
https://ebay.us/4pC9xT
https://amzn.to/31U3QkD
Power drill
- A power drill
Ideally it should be made by a good manufacturer

and be as powerful as possible
Recommended source: https://ebay.us/FOsirY

Local hardware store
HSS-Cobalt drill bit set
- HSS-Cobalt drill bit set with sizes: 1mm,

1 .5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 4.5mm,
5 mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 6.5mm, 7mm, 7.5mm, 8mm,
8 .5mm, 9mm, 9.5mm, 10mm
The alloy the drill bits are made out of needs
to be:
At least:
HSS-Cobalt M35 (5% Cobalt)
Ideally:
HSS-Cobalt M42 (8% Cobalt)
Recommended: https://amzn.to/3x3s0HJ
store
17
Extra long 3.5mm drill bit
- 3.5mm HSS drill bit with a length

of at least 110mm, ideally longer
Recommended source: Amazon, Local

hardware store
Metric socket and bit driver set
- A driver and wrench set that

contains metric socket heads and
metric hex bits
Recommended source:
https://ebay.us/QKCDgf
Metal file
- You need at least one metal file,

ideally, you'd get a set of files
The metal file should have a 1 or 2

cut ideally
This means it should have a fairly
coarse checkering pattern
Recommended source:
https://ebay.us/Yvq7gq
Pliers
- Pliers for bending steel wire
Recommended source: Amazon
18
Angle grinder
- Vital to make cutting thicker

steel stock manageable
Make sure to buy the appropriate

metal cutting disc for your angle
grinder
Dremel tool
- Rotary/Dremel tool with various

inserts. You have to buy the
appropriate metal cutting discs!
Soldering iron
- Needed to melt the thread inserts

into the upper receiver
Any soldering iron will work,

ideally you have access to various
tips, of which one should work
better for the job
Slot screw driver
- Any slot screw driver of small to

medium size is appropriate. This
will be used to help you remove
supports on the 3D-printed parts
Recommended source: Local
19
Craft knife
- This will be used to help you

remove supports and print
imperfections on the 3D-printed
parts
Vise
- A proper full-size vise mounted to a

sturdy table
Recommended source: Amazon, Ebay, Local

hardware store
Safety glasses
- Safety glasses to protect you

especially during usage of the
angle grinder
Recommended items (Optional):

9 x19mm Laser Bore Sighter
to help you adjust your
red dot sight roughly
without the need to shoot.
Sight your red dot with it
at a distance of 10, 25 or 50
meters. Watch Youtube Tutorials
Link -> Banggood
9 mm cleaning kit
to aid you keeping your barrel
free of obstructions and apply
firearms lubricant/oil
Link -> AliExpress
NOTE: DON’T USE THE METAL BRUSH
20
Materials
PLA filament
- 2x 1kg spools of 1.75mm diameter

PLA filament
Recommended brands:
Chinese:
Hatchbox, eSUN, Sunlu
European:
Prusament, DasFilament, 3DJake
American:
Fusion Filament,3DFuel,Atomic Filament
Use standard black filament as it is

produced and used the most, thus the
scrutiny in terms of feedback on the
quality by the customer is higher on the
black PLA of any particular brand
Store sealed as long as possible
Round steel stock (18mm,3mm)
- 1x 50mm long and 1x 216mm long

or one piece longer than 300mm,
1 8mm diameter +-0.1mm
(Ideally you'll have multiple of those
pieces in case you make mistakes or want
to make multiple bolts. So buy a round
steel stock bar of 18mm diameter that is
longer than 300mm at least, and then cut
it with your angle grinder into pieces as
you need it)
- 1x 200mm long or as a longer piece,
3 mm diameter +-0.01mm
IMPORTANT FOR BOTH: The round steel stock

has to be non-hardened, so no tool steel
for example! Uncoated! Use carbon steel
(regular steel) or as a last resort,
stainless steel!
Recommended source:3mm , 18mm
21
JB Weld
- 2x packages of JB Weld
This is a two-part epoxy that is used to

glue materials of all sorts together
especially metals. Get the regular JB
weld version
If you can't get JB weld try to find a

similar product that is a two-part steel
bonding epoxy/glue
Sand paper
- Get multiple sheets of coarse to medium

grain sand paper
Razor blades
- At least 1x disposable thin razor blade
This is potentially needed to install the

3mm shaft collars in case they come with
slot instead of hex key screws
22
Cutting fluid
- At least 1x spray can or bottle of

cutting fluid
It is used to cool and lubricate during

drilling, threading and other processes
that remove metal
Grease
- 1x small container of grease for

mechanical lubrication applications
Tooth picks
- 1x small container of tooth picks
This will be used to mix and apply JB

Weld
Recommended source: store
23
Welded Bolt specific tools and materials
(ONLY NEEDED FOR WELDED BOLT OPTION):
Sheet metal plates
- 1x 3-5mm thick sheet metal plate, at

least 500x500mm big
Put that plate on any regular table to

have a table ready to be used for your
welding
You will need that sheet metal plate on

top of a regular table in case you don't
have a welding table that has been
specifically made for welding
- 1x 1mm thick sheet metal plate, at

least 700x700mm big. Put that plate on
the floor around the part of the regular
table you will weld to protect the floor.
- 1x 3-5mm thick, 20mm wide sheet metal

strip cut to 100mm length to help you
align the bolt pieces during welding
NOTE: These sheet metal materials are not

necessary but highly recommended if you
are new to welding and did not have the
facilities and tools to weld.
Recommended source: 3mm , 1mm ,

3mmx200
Stick welding electrodes
- Assortment of welding electrodes
Ideally 2.5mm in diameter.
BUY DIFFERENT TYPES OF STICK WELDING

ELECTRODES FROM DIFFERENT BRANDS!
Some steel welding electrodes might work

better than others for the steel you are
working with. This is key.
24
Stick welding unit
- A cheap and simple stick welding

unit that is also known as
SMAW(Shielded Metal Arc Welding) or
simply arc welding unit
They can cost from anywhere between

50 and 100 USD
Recommended source: Ebay
Welding helmet
- A welding helmet is important to

have to be able to weld without
going blind
Recommended source: Amazon, Ebay,
Aliexpress, Local hardware store
Welding gloves
- Purpose made leather gloves to

prevent burning your hands during
welding
Recommended source: Amazon, Ebay,

Local hardware store
25
Welding apron
- An apron to protect you against

burning yourself while welding.
Made out of leather or leather
substitute
Welding clamps
- 1-2x welding clamps to help you

during the welding of the bolt.
Make sure the welding clamp is of
the type you see in the picture
Slag hammer
- Hammer to help you get rid of the

slag that forms during the welding
process
Metal wire brush
- Brush with metal wires to help

you clean welding seams
Recommended source: Ebay,
express
26
Weldless Bolt specific materials
(ONLY NEEDED FOR WELDLESS BOLT OPTION):
Extra 3mm drill bit
- At least one extra 3mm drill bit
Square steel stock
- Square steel stock 10x10mm

Get a bar of at least 100mm length.
Woodworking clamp
- A woodworking clamp that is

similar to the example in the
picture
Recommended source: Amazon,
27
Fire control group components
In regards to the fire control group you have two options.
For most people the FGC-9 is intended to be built by, you will most likely rely
on the printed fire control group but if you have access to proper firearm
parts
it is recommended you buy a commercial AR-15/M4/M16 compatible fire
control group. A proper commercially made AR-15 fire control group will be
safer and vastly more reliable. So if you can get one, go with a proper AR-15
fire control group. Depending on your choice, you will have to buy different
parts.
Parts for use with the 3D-printed FGC-9 MkII fire control
group:
In order of image shown above, from left to right:

- 1x AR-15 Hammer spring
- 1x Steel Dowel Pin, 4mm diameter, 28mm +-2mm long,
Recommended Spec/Type: DIN 6325 or DIN 7
- 1x AR-15 Trigger spring
- 1x AR-15 Fire control group pin
- 1x AR-15 Disconnector spring
- 1x AR-15 Fire selector spring
- 1x AR-15 Fire selector detent
Available from Aliexpress:

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9QOyZp
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AKlGaL(21 pcs option)
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A3mszt(T070 option)
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ACTSaj(21 pcs option)
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AYfQlh
Note: For the 4mm DIA, 28mm long dowel pin, look on Ebay, etc.
In addition, a slot screw and socket screw are needed which are
listed on page 31-32.
28
General parts
Shaft collars DIN 705
- 3x Shaft collars DIN 705, 16mm

Inner diameter: 16mm
Outer diameter: 28mm
Width: 12mm
- 1x Shaft collar DIN 705, 3mm

Inner diameter: 3mm
Outer diameter: 7mm
Width: 5mm
(Should include a set screw)
Alternatively, equivalent shaft collar:

Inner diameter: 3mm
Outer diameter: 7mm-12mm
Width: 5mm
Recommended source: Ebay, Regional online

fastener supplier
Cup point set screws DIN 916
- 3x Set Screw M6 DIN 916, 6mm
Recommended source: Ebay, McMaster,

Regional online fastener supplier
Main Buffer Spring
- 1x AR-15/M4 Buffer Spring
Recommended source: Aliexpress, Ebay
Available on Aliexpress:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9JlZY7
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A3teWT
29
Firing Pin Spring
- 1x Spring for the Firing Pin
Remove springs from various ballpoint pens

that you have and check them whether they
meet these dimensions.
Outer diameter: 4.5mm +-0.5mm

Wire thickness: 0.4mm +-0.02mm
Initial length: 25mm +-5mm
Alternatively you can purchase a spring with

those dimension online.
Once you have a spring that meets the

dimensions above, cut the spring down to a
length of 12.5mm +-5mm
Mag Catch Spring - 1x AR-15 Mag Catch spring
(Most likely already included in your fire

control group spring kit ordered from
Aliexpress)
Cut shorter at your own preference in case

the mechanism is too stiff for you
OR
1 x Regular compression spring
Outer diameter: 8mm

Wire thickness: 1mm +-0.1mm
Length/Cut to length: 20mm
30
Secondary Buffer Spring
- 1x Secondary buffer spring:
Outer diameter: 17mm

Wire thickness: 2mm +-0.5mm
Length: 80mm +-10mm
DIN 2095 option: Outer diameter:17mm

Wire thickness: 2.25mm
Length: 75mm
Recommended source: Ebay, AliExpress
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AdWL1z
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001633110330.html
Hex head screws DIN 933
- 6x Hex Head Screw M3 DIN 933, 40mm
- 4x Hex Head Screw M3 DIN 933, 20mm

Socket head screw DIN 912
DIN 912 Socket Head Screws:
- 10x Socket Head Screw M3,16mm

Cut to 28mm length
(Only needed for the 3D-printable
Fire Control Group)

31
Slot head screw DIN 84
- 1x Slot Head Screw M4 DIN 84, 6mm

(Only needed for 3D-printable fire control
group)

Washers DIN 125
- 10x Washer M3 DIN 125

Nuts DIN 934
- 4x Nuts M3 DIN 934

32
Lock washer DIN 6797
- 1x External-Tooth Lock Washer M6 DIN

6 797

Thread inserts
- 4x "Brass Hot Melt Inset Nuts SL” M3

“ M3 X D5.0 X L7.0”
OR
Generic Thread Inserts M3

(Ideally with diagonal knurling)
Outer diameter: 5mm
Width/Length: 5-7mm
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AbHfgb
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_APyjOX
Extended G17 Mag Springs
- (7x+) 1x per Mag that you want to make
Available from Aliexpress:

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_97FiDv
(“For G17/Color B” Option)
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A9hQYX
(“Glock 17” Option)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400084521
0385.html (“Glock 17” Option)
NOTE: These springs are only compatible

with 17rd and 25rd 3D-printed magazines
With high likelihood you will need to

modify the springs before they work in
the 25rd 3d-printed FGC-9 MkII magazine.
The modification guide is on page: 126
33
Hex/Allen L-Key Size 5mm
- 1x 5mm Hex/Allen L-Key

You might have to cut the longer leg

to meet these dimensions:
Overall length: 82.5mm +-2.5mm

Short leg: 25mm+
Neodymium Magnet
- 1x Neodymium Magnet 20mmx10mmx2mm
Recommended source: Ebay, Amazon
34
Recommended accessories
Silicone spray
- Silicone lubricant spray for the

surface of all 3D-printed parts that
interact with each other

NATO firearms lubricant
- To prevent rust inside the barrel
Sold under following designations:

NATO S-761 / NATO S-758 / W18
Recommended source: Ebay, Automotive oils

shop, Hardware store
Red dot sight
- Red dot sight
Suggested option:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AXeYj9
Weapon mounted flashlight
- Weapon mounted flashlight
Suggested option:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328649023
Single point bungee sling
- Ideal sling for the FGC-9 MkII
Suggested option:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9hPAqj
35
Ammunition
You will most likely not have access to 9x19mm ammunition, thus you
will need to assemble/reload your own 9x19mm cartridges.
Europeans at time of the publication of this document,

are still able to buy all necessary components and tools
without the need for any licenses.
For assembly/reloading you will need reloading tools.
Included with the files is a guide written by IvanTheTroll that

explains how to assemble your cartridges with improvised tools, but if
you are able to buy the reloading tools, you should use the proper
reloading tools instead for reliability and faster production rates.
The following components are needed for 9x19mm cartridges:
Projectile Case Primer Source of Powder
To help you find these components in the case that you live in Europe,
use the following terms in your search:
• Projectiles, Shipped from Czech Republic, Austria or Germany:
(9mm/.355/.356 ) ".355 FMJ RN" or "9mm FMJ RN"
• Cases, Shipped from Poland: “Łuski 9x19mm" or "Łusek 9mm"
Cases, Shipped from Germany: "Hülsen 9mm" or “Hülsen 9mm gebraucht”
Cases, Shipped from UK: “Deactivated 9x19mm”
Cases, Shipped from Czech Republic: “Nábojnice 9mm”
• Small Pistol Primers, Shipped from Italy: “Inneschi primers IT”
• 6.8/11 RED HILTI blanks: “Hilti 6.8/11 Red”
Contain 0.23grams NC powder per blank !
Buy hundreds at least, better thousands if you can !
NOTE: If you are unable to acquire proper primers, you will need to
resort to reloading the “indented” / already fired primers inside old
cartridge cases. This means, if you can’t buy primers you will need to
make sure that the cases you use, have the already fired / indented
primers still inside the pocket, because you will have to resort
“reloading” them with primer compound harvested from the Hilti blanks.
This is explained in the included ammunition guide by IvanTheTroll.
36
For ideal operation of your FGC-9 you should use 9x19mm cartridges
with either 147grain RN(round nose) bullets or 124grain RN bullets:
147 grain Round Nose
- Ideal for Suppressor use

- Full Metal Jacket or Plated
- Use 0.28 grams / 4.3grains
of powder harvested from
HILTI 6.8/11 RED nail gun blanks
- Load to Overall length (OAL)
of the cartridge: 28.90mm +-0.05
124 grain Round Nose
- Better suited for long distance fire

- Full Metal Jacket or Plated
- Use 0.27 grams / 4.2grains
of powder harvested from
HILTI 6.8/11 RED nail gun blanks
- Load to OAL: 28.90mm +-0.05
For those who are able to buy reloading tools, here a recommended setup:
LEE Breech Lock Press 90045 LEE 4-DIE Carbide Set 9mm 90963 LEE Powder Measure 90058
LEE New Auto Prime 90230 LEE Shell Holder #19 90023 Scale with 0.01gram accuracy
Learn via Youtube tutorials extensively before starting. Watch this

video as an introduction: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXh4GpmdJOg
37
Visual overview of the components
Upper
Bolt
Charging Handle
Firing Pin
Barrel
Lower
Stock
Magazine
38
Making the barrel
You have three options to produce your FGC-9 barrel.
Electro-Chemically Machining a hydraulic pipe

Buy a 16mm Outer Diameter, 8-8.6mm Inner Diameter
Hydraulic Pipe / “Explosion-Proof-Pipe”, out of hardened steel
and use “ECM” to bore, rifle and chamber it according to the
included instructions. (USE THE INCLUDED ECM GUIDE)
Recommended option, All necessary information is included
Don’t be intmidated by this process.

This process is very easy to reproduce even as a lay person
thanks to the help of the included instructions.
The tools that are necessary are cheap and available worldwide.
Using a simple steel pipe chambered with a drill bit

Buy a 16mm Outer Diameter, 9mm Inner Diameter steel pipe and
cut it to at least 114mm length and
then use a 10mm diameter drill bit that you cut flat beforehand,
to ream the chamber to a depth of 15.95mm +-0.05.
Machining a barrel out of a rifled barrel blank

Hire a gunsmith to do the following or do this yourself:
- Buy a rifled barrel blank for 9x19mm

( In the US, for example on Brownells )
- Cut a 114mm+ section from the long piece
- Turn down the piece on the lathe to the OD of 16mm+-0.01
- Use a 9x19mm chamber reamer to ream the chamber to a depth
of 15.95mm +-0.05
- Add a chamfer with a tool or use sand paper to add a radius
- (Optionally) Follow instructions on page 42 for muzzle thread
If you decide to machine a barrel from a rifled barrel blank

yourself, you can buy the same tools shown on page 42 for this.
The only additional tools you will need is a

9x19mm chamber reamer with a square shank and
a M5/M6 - M20 adjustable tap wrench.
The basics of the chamber reaming process are illustrated in

this video: https://youtu.be/27Xz_oMZbbI?t=199
39
40
Suppressor
For tactical purposes during the usage of the firearm and for being
able to practice shooting and test fire in environments in which you
need to be quiet, you might consider the use of a suppressor.
There are a multitude of suppressor options that can be freely bought

and only need minor modification for use with your firearm.
They key issue that you will face with your FGC-9 is how to attach
your suppressor to your barrel.
At the moment you have effectively two methods of attaching a
suppressor to you FGC-9.
One will only require you to purchase an adapter that will let you
attach the suppressor while the other option is more involved and will
require access to a lathe.
Going with the more advanced option has the benefit of keeping the
length of your suppressed setup as short as possible, as well as
making sure that the suppressor is securely attached to your firearm.
A suppressed setup with the adapter will require caution during use,
as the adapter and thus suppressor might get knocked off your barrel.
1 . Adapter option:
Buy this exact 1/2x28” adapter that allows you to mount it to 16mm OD
barrels: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9Htb5N (For 16mm Barrel)
NOTE: YOU WILL NEED TO DRILL THE

INSIDE OF THE ADAPTER TO AN
INNER DIAMETER OF 9mm with your
9 mm drill bit !!!
- It is attached to your FGC-9

barrel via two set screws that
you will tighten with the
included Allen key
- There are a multitude of
similar adapters on AliExpress
but only the one shown in the
picture will fit with your
barrel
- In case this adapter is not
available anymore, refer to the
Deterrence Dispensed community
for alternatives
41
2 . Robust and more compact option:
- Buy a mini lathe such as the SIEG C2 or

a 7” x 14” Mini Lathe
Example Link
- Buy a MT2 / MK2 live center tool

Example Link
- Buy a 8x8mm carbide tool holder and

compatible carbide inserts (CCMT060204)
Example Link
- Buy a Thread Alignment Tool ( TAT ) for

1 /2" x 28 thread for use with 9mm
Example Link 1 Example Link 2
- Buy a 1/2" x 28 thread die that has an

outer diameter of 1.5” / 38mm
- Buy an adjustable die holder for use with

1 .5” / 38mm OD dies
NOTE: Do not install your shaft collars

onto the barrel until you have completed
the muzzle thread cutting process.
Reducing the last 15mm section on your

barrel to an OD of 12.58mm with the lathe:
1 . Set up your lathe with the live center

and one of your carbide tools.
2 . Insert the chamber end of the barrel
into the chuck and have the muzzle butt
against the live center mounted in the
tailstock of your lathe.
3 . Turn the 15mm section near the muzzle
to an outer diameter of 12.58mm +-0.05.
4 . Take many light cuts, do not remove too
much material at once and make sure you
measure the OD after every few cuts to
prevent reducing the OD too much.
42
Cutting the muzzle thread with your threading die and TAT tool:
1 . Screw the TAT about 4-5 threads into

the back of the die with the pilot
sticking out in front.
2 . Insert die and TAT into handle,

preferably lettered towards you and
aligning at least one of the tightening
screws in the handle with the divots in
the die OD.
3 . Secure the barrel vertically in a
padded vise.
4 . Apply a good cutting fluid/oil to
the die teeth and start cutting.
It will take a little bit of vertical

downward pressure to get started. Apply
even downward pressure and rotate the
die slowly.
5 . Repeatedly advance the die about 1/8
turn, then back it off to break up the
shaving (chips).
Do not allow the face of the TAT to
ever reach the barrel face.
This could strip the teeth out,

possibly damaging the TAT and ruining
the few threads that you have cut on
the barrel.
6 . Once you have cut about 4-5 threads

remove the TAT tool.
7 . Resume threading as above, breaking

the chips and applying cutting fluid as
you go.
43
Suppressor selection:
There are two kinds of suppressors you have access to.
One are the so called monocore suppressor and the kind that have
multiple cups and a spacer inside.
Monocore suppressors that you can buy offer the advantage that you
don’t need to drill cups but the monocore suppressor that are
available have bores with diameters of around 12mm. The smaller the
bore of a suppressor is the more effective at suppression it will be.
The suppressor that come with cups will require you to drill throu gh
the cups with a 10.5mm drill bit.
Thus these monocore suppressors are less effective at suppressing the

sound of your shots.
Note that any suppressor choice will need to have an outer diameter of
at least 1.2 inch, as those that are slimmer in diameter tend to be
not suited to the pressures created by the 9x19mm cartridge.
When it comes to length, the longer the suppressor is, the more
effective at sound suppression it will be. A longer suppressor will
become an issue though when handling your firearm inside buildings.
Cup Suppressor – 10 inch
Current recommended sources:

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ag9LWB
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ASMNRh
NOTE: You will need to drill open all

cups as well as the endcap with a 10.5mm
drill bit. Make sure that you drill
perfectly through the center.
44
Monocore Supressor – 6 inch

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9hUOUf
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9gl9Y3
NOTE: You will need to drill open the

endcap with a 10.5mm drill bit. Make sure
that you drill perfectly through the
center.
Monocore Supressor – 10 inch

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ApnSLV
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AmXQjH
NOTE: You will need to drill open the

endcap with a 10.5mm drill bit. Make sure
that you drill perfectly through the
center.
Recommended: To increase the suppression effect of your suppressors cut out

an appropriately size disc out of a 3mm sheet of “Polyurethan sheet PU90°
Shore” and insert it into the endcap. Cut the disc just slightly larger than the
inner diameter of the inside of the endcap to push it in to have it stay stuck
inside. After the first shot, your bullet will create its own exit hole.
Make sure you don’t use any hollow point bullets for the first few shots.
If you can’t assemble your suppressor this way, sand the last cup / the
monocore
shorter until the suppressor can be assembled.
If you cut threads into your barrel with the “lathe+die” option, consider:
Muzzle thread protector (15mm length)

Example links:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ATD4r5
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A4kOht (Choose:.223)
45
Making the charging handle
Gather the barrel retainer, charging handle, charging handle

bushing, the 20x10x2mm magnet, 5mm allen key and prepare the
JB weld mixture.
Apply the JB weld mixture to the bend of the Allen Key.
46
Making sure the JB weld mixture is applied
primarily in the area shown in the picture,
shove the bushing over the allen key and make
sure that you push it AS FAR AS YOU CAN, before
letting the charging handle dry.
47
Once you have the bushing pushed up on the bend of the allen
key you can then apply JB weld into the cavity of the
charging handle knob and then push it over the shorter leg
of the allen key in the orientation shown in the picture.
Let the charging handle dry for at least 6 hours before

further use.
48
While the charging handle is already drying, you can
apply JB weld into the charging handle slot of the
barrel retainer and then drop the magnet in.
Make sure you clean the main surface of the magnet
with a cotton swab or something similar to simply
have that surface stay clean from any JB weld before
letting it dry.
49
Making the firing pin
Cut off a 70mm long piece from your 3mm DIA

steel bar with a Dremel tool
/angle grinder with a steel cutting disc.
Make sure to remove any nasty edges by

using sand paper or your metal file before
inserting it into the power drill in the
next step.
50
Put the bar into a power drill and rotate it
while holding a metal file against it to form
a chamfered circle end at the tip that is 2mm
in diameter.
Then use sand paper to finish the shape of

the tip so that it looks like in the picture.
51
After you made sure the circle end point is
2mm in diameter, you then can approach to get
the circle end point to the final diameter of
1.75mm by carefully grinding the tip against
sand paper.
Make sure to hold the bar straight down.
52
Use your caliper blades to scratch a line
around the circumference of the bar at a
distance of 58.35mm from the tip.
At that exact distance you will have to

drill a divot into the pin later on so make
sure you have that spot marked by having a
clearly visible belt at the distance of
58.35mm from the tip.
53
Put the bar into a vise and use the edge of
your metal file to create a flat section
around the previously marked position.
Only file so much that you have a flat area
to drill into for the divot later on.
54
Use your power drill and a 1mm drill bit and
then afterwards go deeper with a 2mm drill
bit, to create a divot deep in the bar that
is in the center of the flat area you
created, that is aligned with the previously
created line which is 58.35mm from the tip.
Instead of the 1mm drill bit you can also use

a punch and a hammer to mark the spot before
using the 2mm drill bit.
Note: The divot is not center in the picture.

You should do a better job than that ;)
55
Remove the grub screw from the shaft collar
and put the shaft collar onto the bar
aligning the hole of it with the divot to
get an idea where the shaft collar should
be for the later steps.
56
Mix up some JB weld with a tooth pick.
57
Remove the shaft collar and put some JB Weld onto the flat
area that you filed and fill up the drilled divot.
Then slide the shaft collar to that position and try to line
up the hole with a tooth pick through the hole of the shaft
collar.
Try to remove the JB weld out of the shaft collar screw hole
so you can see that the shaft collar hole is centered with
the divot.
58
Once you have made sure the shaft collar
screw hole is lined up with the divot you
previously created by probing with a
toothpick, you can fill the hole with JB
weld. Be careful not to move the shaft
collar away from its position at this
point.
59
Take a razor blade or the the hex key depending on your
type of 3mm shaft collar and apply a drop of grease along
the shorter edge of the tool to have the grub screw stick
to it. Screw the grub screw into the JB Weld-filled shaft
collar screw hole. Cover the entire shaft collar and the
area behind the shaft collar with JB Weld.
60
Clean the flat side of the shaft collar that is
towards the tip from any JB weld. After you have
applied JB weld and cleaned it from the places that
should be free of JB weld, as you can see in the
picture, let the firing pin cure in a vertical
position for at least 24 hours.
61
Using a metal file shorten the firing pin by grinding
the back end of the firing pin to reach an overall
length of 67.50mm.
Make sure to do this carefully and measure often

during the filing process.
62
After you reach the final length, chamfer the end of
the back a little as you see in the picture.
As noted on page 65, once you have completed making

the bolt, you will have to check the firing pin
protrusion distance, as show in the illustration,
once that check is complete, the firing pin is ready
for use in the assembled firearm with live ammo.
63
64
65
Melting in the thread inserts
Prepare all four thread inserts as well as

the upper receiver and lower receiver. Get
your soldering iron and pre-heat it to at
least 220°C. Put the thread inserts with the
tapered side into the holes on the back side
of the upper and lower receiver.
66
Making sure the inserts can go down in
straight, use your soldering iron to push in
the thread inserts about 1-2mm past the
entrance of the hole. The inserts should not
stick out of the hole. Sand around the edge
with sandpaper if material sticks out.
67
Making the bolt
The bolt of the FGC-9 will be the most complex part to
produce and will be at the heart of the firing mechanism.
You will have two main ways of attaching the steel stock
pieces together that make up the steel portion of the bolt.
Either using a stick welder to attach the two pieces or
using JB weld and a piece of square steel stock.
Along with these differences, how the round pickup is added
will differ. The rest of the process to build the bolt will
be the same. You can choose one or the other depending on
your budget and other limitations that have to do with the
nature of welding. If you have the tools / environment to go
with the option to weld the two steel pieces together and
make your bolt that way, it is recommended you do that.
A bolt made with welding will result in a more robust

construction that you can have complete confidence in and
you will need less manual labor to finish the it.
For both paths you will need to begin with drilling the
firing pin channel and end with the same recess drilling
process. Be sure to read the following pages before starting
either process, to get an idea how the options differ.
68
Drilling the lower bolt rod
Get your power drill ready with the long 3.5mm

diameter drill bit, as well as both drilling jig
halves and the 50mm long 18mm bar. Put the short bolt
piece (18mm diameter, 50mm long) in between the the
drilling jig halves.
69
Put the drilling jig with the bolt piece inside, in
between the jaws of your table-mounted vise.
70
Spray cutting fluid into the hole before starting to
drill. With ample of forward pressure start drilling
into the setup.
71
Drill a few millimeters into the hole and then remove
the steel chips and add new cutting fluid, then drill
again. Repeat this until you can feel that you got
through the entire bolt piece.
72
73
Welded Bolt Option
Prepare the tools and materials that you need

for the welding process:
- 1x 50mm long, 18mm diameter steel rod piece

- 1x 216mm long,18mm diameter steel rod piece
- Digital Caliper
- Welding table or sheet metal to weld on
- Welding helmet, gloves and welding skirt
- Welding device powered up and connected
- Welding clamp(s)
- Welding Jig
74
Put the welding jig onto the end of your 50mm
bolt piece aligning it via the firing pin
channel hole. Use the bottom corner of your
digital caliper or a similar metal device to
scratch along the slot of the welding jig.
75
You should now have a clearly visible line on the side of the lower bolt
piece that you want to be the bolt face of your bolt.
Now put the 50mm long bolt piece as well as the 216mm long bolt piece and
put them next to each other as close and straight as possible.
The firing pin channel should be at the 3 o clock position, while the longer
bolt piece should be laid at the 9 o clock side of the shorter bolt piece.
Just look at the image to see how it should look like.
Use the depth rod of your digital caliper to align the firing pin hole to be
perfectly at the 3 o clock position as you see it in this picture.
You do this by measuring the distance of the line to the bottom of the plate
you have the bolt piece on. Since the bolt piece has a diameter of 18mm, you
need the distance of the scratched line to the bottom to be exactly 9mm.
76
After you have made sure that the drilled hole in the shorter bolt
piece is exactly halfway between top and bottom (at the 3 o'clock
position) use your welding clamp to fix the two bolt piece perfectly
into position as you can see it in the upper picture.
Measure the 9mm distance again to confirm that the firing pin hole is
still perfectly at the 3 o’ clock position. Make absolutely sure that
the front faces/ends of the bolt pieces are absolutely flush.( LOOK AT
THE UPPER PICTURE). Meaning on the front/bolt face the ends should be
in line and one bolt should not stick out more than the other.
You can now go ahead and connect the contact of your welder to
the welder table and turn on your welding device.
77
Turn on your arc welder and then set the appropriate amperage
which you can find on the packaging of the electrode you will be
using, for example when using some 2.5mm diameter electrodes you
will need to set your arc welder between 65 and 80 amps.
Be sure to wear welding gloves, welding apron and a welding visor
before going ahead.
Attach the negative contact from the arc welder to the metal
plate on which the bolt pieces are laying.
Hold one of your electrodes with your electrode holder which is
plugged into the arc welder device and use some scrap sheet metal
strip to try to start a bead, meaning you will have to get the
feel to start welding. Imagine how it feels like to strike a
match. In a similar fashion you need to strike slowly but fluidly
the metal with the tip of the electrode.
After you have successfully got a bead and even a weld line going
on a piece of sheet metal, you can go ahead and run the electrode
between the two bolt pieces to fill the gap with material.
If you can’t manage to get a good bead / seam going try to use
other kinds of stick welding electrodes, as they might be better
suited for the steel you are working with.
78
After the first few blobs that you put into the gap, you can
remove the clamp and work with the bolt pieces just laying on the
metal plate. You will struggle to keep it going consistently but
that doesn't matter, keep going at it until the gap on each side
looks like in the image.
Once you have filled both gaps on both sides like you see in the
picture, use your file to remove as much of the welded material
until it can fit into your printed bolt housing.
79
It will probably take some time until you have filed enough
material from the filled gap as well as accidental weld blobs
that prevent the bolt from going into the bolt housing.
Make extensive use of your metal wire brush and slag hammer to
remove as much slag from the welded seam before you spend much of
your time using the file.
80
Eventually you should be able to slide the bolt into the bolt
housing. Don’t try to use too much force getting it in. Try to
look meticously on the bolt for excessive weld material that
might prevent the bolt from getting. You also will probably have
to remove material from the steel bolt piece themselves,
especially on the sides to get it to fit in.
81
Once the welded bolt fits inside the bolt housing use a sharp metal
object, a pen or something similar to scratch the outline of the
cutout on the bottom of the bolt carrier onto the bottom of the
5 0mm bolt piece as you can see it in the image.
82
Using one of your partially spent welding sticks that is shorter,
add blobs of weld material. Add a blob, let it cool off and then
add another blob on top of it until the tower of blobs looks
similar to the picture.
83
Once your blob tower is high enough and wide enough to cover the
cutout you can go ahead and use your metal file to shape it in
such a way where it becomes a square that fills out the cutout on
the bolt housing.
84
It doesn’t have to be perfect but the sides of the square you are
creating should follow the sides of the bottom geometry on the
bolt housing as you can see it, in the picture.
85
The behind of the square shape will determine how far you can
shove the bolt inside the bolt housing. Be sure to remove
material from the back side of the square shape you’ve created
that you can shove the bolt into the bolt housing and have the
bolt face stick out not more than 1mm.
Do not keep removing material from the back side and the bolt
once the bolt face is only sticking 0.2 – 1mm out. If you
continue to remove material from the backside of the square you
will end up with a gap in the circled location, which you should
prevent.
86
Once you have managed to file the square into
shape so it roughly fills out the cutout on the
bottom of the bolt housing and the bolt in fits
inside the bolt housing well while not sticking
out too much, you then can go ahead.
87
Prepare the steel bolt, the bolt
housing, JB weld and the tools to apply
it and clean the excessive JB weld off.
88
Mix the JB weld very well and then
apply it to the steel bolt to the
extent that you see on the picture.
89
Push the steel bolt into the bolt housing
with the JB weld applied on it.
Make absolutely sure that you don’t have
any JB weld on the backside of the lower
bolt rod. It has to stay clean!
90
Be sure to clean the bolt assembly up
to the extent you see in the pictures,
before letting it dry.
Let the bolt dry for 24 hours before

going ahead with the next steps.
91
Weldless Bolt Option
Text and pictures by IvanTheTroll
Step 1: Prep Work
Remove all supports from your printed parts. Your Bolt Cutting Jigs
should have four upright posts that act as integrated supports – use a
screwdriver or pliers to remove these four posts, as you don’t need
them in place. You don’t need to be very precise, just get the posts
out of the way. It’s fine if a little of the post stays stuck to the
jig itself.
Jigs before removing posts
Jigs with posts removed.
92
You will also need to take your 10x10mm bar stock and cut a ~17.75mm
long section from it. Use a hacksaw, your grinding tool, or whatever
other tool you used to cut your bolt rods to length. The length of bar
stock is beneath the bolt rods in the following picture:
Bolt rods cut to length with bar stock cut to length.
Step 2: Creating Weldless Lower Bolt Rod

For the next step, you will need to make sure you have your bolt rods
cut to length (refer to the FGC-9 documentation for this exact length)
and your firing pin channel drilled (again, refer to the FGC-9
documentation for the jig and tutorial on how to drill the firing pin
channel). I will stress that it is *very* important to get your firing
pin channel drilled as straight as you can – It’s also a good idea to
mark which end of the lower bolt rod you drilled into, as this end of
the lower bolt rod should become your breech face. Use a punch or
screwdriver to make a small mark on this end of the bolt rod.
Note: I recommend you do these next couple steps outdoors if you are
using a power tool to grind. If this is not an option, try and use a
room that has tile floor and is easy to sweep in – this process makes
a big mess since you are grinding away a lot of metal.
Take your lower bolt rod, one of your cutting jigs, and the same drill
bit you used to drill your firing pin channel. Insert the lower bolt
rod into the jig BREECH FACE FIRST with the firing pin channel lined
up with the larger of the two holes in the front of the cutting jig.
It is important that you insert the breech face first to ensure things
line up. The breech face is whichever side of the lower bolt rod that
you drilled into first when drilling your firing pin channel, or
whichever end of the rod lines up the best. If your firing pin channel
is too far misaligned and you can’t get the firing pin channel to line
up with the hole in the jig, make a new lower bolt rod and be more
careful when making your firing pin channel.
93
Insert the lower bolt rod into the jig fully – make sure it is inserted as far as it can go.
Assuming you inserted the lower bolt rod with the firing pin channel
aligned, take your drill bit and insert it from the front of the jig.
It may be a snug fit, but if you can get it to go in (you can tap it
in gently with a hammer if needed) then your firing pin channel is
close enough to work correctly.
Insert the drill bit you used into the larger of the two holes – the one that lines up with the firing pin channel.
Double check that the bolt rod is still pushed as far into the jig as
it can possibly go – this is very important. After checking this, take
your vise grips/clamp/vise and clamp down on the end of the jig – this
will lock the bolt rod in place. Make sure this is quite tight – don’t
worry about deforming the jig, you want to keep the bolt rod totally
still. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR DRILL BIT IS STUCK IN FROM THE FRONT OF THE
BOLT – you can’t see mine in the picture, but you must make sure it is
inserted.
94
Clamp down tight!
Next, you are ready to start removing material. This will get a little
messy, and if you are using power tools you should use safety glasses.
Safety squinting and looking away won’t work here, as you have to
closely inspect how much material you have removed. Get your grinding
tool ready and find a comfortable way to control both the clamped bolt
rod and the grinding tool – I used one hand on the grinder and one
hand on the vise grips, but since your set up may vary, take the time
to find a way that you can keep the clamped bolt rod and grinding tool
under control.
Now you are ready to remove some metal – you will need to use your
grinding tool to make a notch in the bolt rod that follows the shape
of the cutout in the jig – about 10mm wide, about 5mm deep. Take
frequent stops to check how much metal you have removed, but try to
work quickly – removing this much metal makes lots of heat, and your
jig will start to melt. I’ve made four of these bolts at time of
writing this, and using the grinder pictured I am able to remove the
material before the jig gets totally melted. If you are using a Dremel
tool, you can take breaks to let everything cool – if you don’t ever
get the metal red-hot from heat, you can use water to cool it. But if
you do get the metal red-hot, DO NOT use water to cool it off – this
can cause weird local heat treating to occur, which could lead to a
weak bolt.
95
Be sure to control your tools! Don’t lose control of them and grind something you aren’t supposed to.
Once you have removed at least 90% of the metal from the slot, you can
remove the jig from the bolt rod. If it is getting melty, wear gloves
and use a screwdriver to try and pry the jig off. You can also use a
punch to drive the bolt rod out of the jig using the small hole in the
front of the jig. Because this jig has been overheated, it isn’t
reusable, so don’t be afraid to break it.
Take your 10mm bar stock and test how it fits into the slot. Usually
it won’t quite fit right away – you can use a Dremel tool or metal
file to remove just a little more metal and get the bar to fit. I
don’t recommend using a grinder, because removing too much metal can
ruin your bolt rod. You will want the bar to fit close to snug in the
slot, with about half of the bar stock sticking up out of the slot.
96
Test fit the bar into the slot in the bolt rod.
Use a metal file to square up and fine-tune the slot in the bolt rods. File a little, test fit the bar, file some more, etc.
97
Step 3: Creating Weldless Upper Bolt Rod
Without going into too much detail, you will make the upper bolt rod
just like you did with the lower bolt rod – only you won’t need to use
a drill bit to align the firing pin hole, since there isn’t a firing
pin hole on the upper bolt rod.
Take your rod, insert it fully into your second cutting jig, clamp it
in place, then use your grinding tools to cut the slot into the rod.
Follow the same steps as in Step 2 with regards to cleaning up the
slot after you have removed most of the metal.
As a reminder, a snug fit on the bar stock is ideal (the less it can
wiggle towards either end of the rod the better), and half of the
height of the bar stock should be sticking out of the slot when the
bar is placed into the slot.
Correct fitment of the bar stock into the slot
98
Step 4: Assembling the Bolt
Once you have slotted both bolt rods, take your bar stock and both
rods and lay them out like seen in the picture below. Your bar stock
might not sit perfectly flat/straight, but so long as the top of the
upper bolt rod touches the bottom of the upper bolt rod, then you’ve
cut your slots properly. If the bolt rods have a gap between each
other because the bar stock doesn’t fit deep enough into the slots,
you will need to make the slots a little deeper.
No gaps between
the upper and
lower bolt rods
Layout of the weldless bolt. Make sure there is NO gap between the bolt rods. If there is, you need to make the slots deeper.
After ensuring that the bar stock can fit between the bolt rods
without any gap between the two bolt rods, you are ready to do a mock-
up fit of your bolt assembly. Take your metal parts and your bolt
housing. Insert the metal parts into the bolt housing as shown in the
picture below. Make sure that your bar stock is centered when it
passes into the bolt housing. If you didn’t make sure that there was
zero gap between the top and bottom bolt rods, you won’t be able to
get the metal parts to fit inside the housing – go back to the
previous step and fix this. It may be a little hard to get your metal
parts inserted the first time – the bolt housing is intentionally
tight to help align the metal parts.
99
Carefully guide the metal parts into the bolt housing. You might need to tap them in gently with a hammer the first time.
After fully inserting your bolt rods, I recommend you take the drill
bit you used to drill the firing pin channel, your FGC-9 headspacing
jig (make sure you’ve read the FGC-9 documentation to understand this
tool), and your FGC-9 barrel, as well as a spent/fired cartridge (you
can use a live cartridge but be careful). With the cartridge in the
chamber and the drill bit sticking out of the firing pin channel, use
the headspacing jig to check how the firing pin channel and
cartridge/primer align. If the drill bit in the firing pin channel
points right at the middle of the primer, you’ve done well. If it
doesn’t line up, you will probably have to make a new lower bolt rod –
pay close attention when drilling your firing pin channel.
100
Checking firing pin alignment
Get up close and check – this firing pin channel is well-placed.
After checking alignment of the firing pin channel, you are ready to
JBWeld your bolt assembly into the housing. This step will be messy –
don’t wear any nice clothes, do not work near carpet, and you may want
to wear gloves. Start by mixing a large amount of JBWeld – about 1/3
of each tube should be used for this step. When using large amounts of
JBWeld like this, you will need to mix the two parts for about 5
minutes to ensure it is fully mixed.
101
The minimum amount of JBWeld you should use. Mixing more than this amount is a good idea.
After mixing, use a cheap screwdriver, popsicle stick, or other tool

to smear JBWeld on the inside of the bolt housing. Apply lots of
JBWeld, but try to leave an even coat – you don’t want big blobs, you
want it spread out on the inside of the housing.
Apply JBWeld to the inside of the housing. Use your tool to spread it out.
Next, I recommend you use brake cleaner/degreaser to clean all the

metal parts – this isn’t required but will help make a stronger bolt.
After cleaning the metal parts, fill the slots in the upper and lower
bolt rods with JBWeld. Make a big blob, and ensure the slots have as
much JBWeld in them as you can fit.
102
Fill the slots.
Place the bar stock into the lower bolt rod – JBWeld will squish out.
Try not to wipe this up – you want to leave it squished out. Squish
the lower bolt rod and bar stock into the upper bolt rod – more JBWeld
will squish out.
Squish the rods together.
Now, insert the bolt rods into the housing. As JBWeld squishes out,
try and guide it into the crevasse between the bolt rods and the
housing. You want to cram as much JBWeld between these parts as you
can
103
Smush the bolt rods down into the housing. Smear any JBWeld that squishes out onto the bolt rods and back into the
housing.
Push/pull the metal parts until they are fully seated into the bolt
housing. Shove any JBWeld that squishes out back into the gaps between
the bolt rods and the housing.
Pulling the bolt rods until they are fully seated. Smearing excess JBWeld back into the gaps.
Take your extra 3mm drill bit and coat it in JBWeld – build up lots of
JBWeld on the drill bit, fill the flutes with JBWeld. After coating
the drill bit, you will insert it into the slot at the bottom of the
bolt housing. Insert it until it stops – some of the drill bit will
still be sticking out, this is fine for now.
104
Apply lots of JBWeld!
Smooth out the JBWeld along the bottom of the drill bit/bolt with your
finger. Make sure plenty of JBWeld is smeared over the bottom of the
drill bit/bolt, as seen in the following picture.
At this point, most of the messy work is over. Use a rag to wipe up
any JBWeld on the exposed section of the upper bolt rod. Clean up any
JBWeld that you got on the sides of the bolt housing. Finally, you
will need to clean out any JBWeld that you got into the firing pin
channel/firing pin housing. I usually just use a rag and a screwdriver
for this. Use the screwdriver to guide the rag into the rear of the
bolt and mop up all the JBWeld that you see. Try and get as much of it
out as you can.
105
This JBWeld needs to be cleaned out.
Mop up all that JBWeld!
You’re finally done making messes – set your bolt upright for at least
24 hours to let the JBWeld set up. I recommend you use a clamp on the
outside of the bolt housing while the JBWeld sets up (the clamp
doesn’t need to be very tight, just holding everything steady).
106
Bolt assembly clamped in place while the JBWeld cures.
After the JBWeld has cured for 24 hours, use a hacksaw or Dremel tool
and a file to cut the 3mm drill bit off – you will need to make sure
you cut it off perfectly flat with the face of the lower bolt rod. I
recommend you cut 90% of the length of the drill bit off with your
hacksaw or Dremel tool, then use your metal file to file down the
firing pin until it is flush with the face of the bolt. You may also
have to take the drill bit you drilled out your firing pin channel
with and drill any JBWeld out of the firing pin channel itself.
Dremel off most of the drill bit, then use a file to make it flush with the bolt face.
107
Drill bit filed flat with the bolt face.
Side view – note that the face of the bolt is flat and the drill bit does not protrude.
With this step complete, your bolt is done. If you are making an FGC-9
MKII, you will need to drill the recess for the charging handle into
the upper bolt rod – refer to the main FGC-9 MKII documentation for
the process on doing this.
108
Weldless Bolt FAQ/Troubleshooting
Q: What sort of round counts should I expect? What ends up breaking?

A: While this bolt is by no means stronger than a proper welded bolt,
I have put 500 rounds through one and experienced no issues. If I had
to guess, either the drill bit will come loose and the bolt will lose
it’s ability to pick up rounds out of the magazine, or the JBWeld
holding the bar stock in place will crack and the bolt rods will
become wobbly. If this happens, STOP USING THE BOLT– I’m sure the gun
won’t feed right if this happened, so if you have a weird malfunction
and the bolt feels wiggly, consider the gun out of commission.
Q: What sort of reliability should I expect?

A: Reliability has been great with the bolts I’ve made – on par with
the welded bolts. It’s pretty amazing how well the setup itself works,
I did not expect it to work as well as it has.
Q: Why am I getting light primer strikes or failures to extract?

A: Refer to the main FGC-9 MKII documentation/troubleshooting tips for
issues like this. It is very important that you headspace weldless
bolts per the instructions in the documentation because of the
possibility of the two bolt rods not being perfectly aligned when
making a weldless bolt.
Q: Can I just use a 3mm rod instead of the 3mm drill bit when
JBWelding it into the bottom of the bolt?
A: Maybe, but it will not be as strong as using a drill bit. You can
get a set of 10 3mm drill bits for around $ 5 most places – cheap
Chinese ones are fine for this application.
109
Drilling the charging handle recess
Prepare your power drill, upper receiver, bolt, drill recess jig and a
7mm diameter drill bit. Insert the bolt into the upper receiver.
Insert the drill recess jig into the front of the upper receiver.
Making sure the bolt does not fall out, clamp the long bolt steel
piece between the jaws of your vise. Have as much as you can of the
bolt clamped in the vise while still having the bolt be at the end on
the inside of the upper receiver.
110
Apply cutting fluid spray and then use your 7mm diameter
drill bit to drill into the opening in the recess jig. Push
the power drill forward with force trying to drill as
straight as possible at the same time.
Only drill a millimeter or two to at the beginning to get an

idea how fast you are removing material while drilling. Be
sure to constantly remove steel shavings possible with an
air spray can or simply use your cutting fluid spray and a
brush of some sort.
111
Your goal is to drill into the bolt face so that you end up with a
recess that is 6mm +-1 deep at the EDGE of the bottom of the recess.
Measure this by using the depth rod of your caliper and have the
bottom of that rod butt up against the bottom at the edge of the
recess. When you measure at the center of the recess you might measure
around 8mm, the reason is that drill bits have a 118° degree tip
usually, hence the difference in dimensions center vs edge.
112
To help the charging handle go into the recess during
operation, use sand paper to deburr/ add a radius
to the edge of the recess entrance.
113
Preparing the Fire control group
BEWARE:
YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PARTS
FOR THE 3D-PRINTED FIRE CONTROL GROUP ARE
PRINTED PROPERLY ON A CORRECTLY ASSEMBLED PRINTER.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY!
AN IMPROPERLY PRINTED OR INCORRECTLY INSTALLED
FIRE CONTROL GROUP CAN LEAD TO
UNSAFE FUNCTION OF THE FIREARM
INCLUDING ACCIDENTAL FIRING OF THE FIREARM.
When taking these 3D-printed fire control group parts off

the print bed, be very careful.
Do not damage the sear surfaces. Refer to the photo if you

are not sure where the sear surfaces are.
Take your time removing the support material.

These are delicate precision parts, treat them as such.
Refer to the included support removal videos.
114
Use a 4mm drill bit to drill out the holes of the
trigger, hammer and the disconnector. It is important to
drill straight. Drill as little as possible.
Drill carefully, stop and test whether the pin can pass
though the holes without excessive resistance before
drilling again.
You do not want the pins to be too loose.
This is especially true for the trigger and disconnector,

as the AR-15 trigger pin that will go through these two
components will be slightly smaller in diameter than the
DIN pin for the hammer.
115
Clear out the support material from the internal
channel of the trigger, take extra care to
remove the brim.
The disconnector must be able to move freely

inside the trigger channel without getting
stuck, this is very important, use sandpaper if
needed.
Again, do not damage the sear surfaces while you

clean up the parts.
116
If your disconnector spring does not fit into
its designated recess inside the channel of the
trigger because it is wider on the bottom, use
your 4mm drill and carefully remove some
material from the sides of the trigger channel.
117
Before going ahead take the DIN 84 screw and screw it
partially into the cavity on the face of the hammer,
once you made sure it does screw in, screw it out.
Mix up some JB Weld and use something like a nail or

toothpick to apply it into the hole. Add some j-b
weld to the threads of the screw and screw it into
the hammer. It does not have to be completely flush
with the face of the hammer.
Don't screw it in deeper than the face of the hammer.
118
Add a good amount of j-b weld to the top of the
screw.
After 12 hours of letting the JB weld dry, take
sand paper or a finer file and sand/file the
excess dried JB weld off the top of the screw so
that the front surface of the hammer is flat
again.
119
Take your safety selector drum
and the safety selector lever and
drill out the holes on these
parts with an 3mm diameter drill
bit.
120
Ensure that you remove any print debris or brim from
the drum, so that the locking / alignment tabs on the
levers can fit inside the slots on the drum.
Attach the lever to the drum. The correct orientation
is important, refer to the photos.
Insert the M3 30mm long socket head bolt through the
safety lever and drum.
Use a M3 nut to secure the two parts but do not over-

tighten the nut or the drum might get deformed.
121
Use a dremel tool with a metal cutting disc
to cut off the part of the socket screw
that is sticking out of the nut.
Remove the nut afterwards and then add some

JB weld to the threads on the end of the
screw.
122
Now screw the nut back on and then
add some more JB weld onto the nut.
Let the JB weld dry for at least 12

hours before further use of the fire
selector.
123
Modifying Chinese Glock Mag Springs
Text and pictures by BoostWillis
Instead of leaving it flat like in the

picture on the left,
bend the top coil with your pliers upward

to match the pitch of the coils below it
like shown in the right picture.
124
As you can see from the red guide lines, the
spring in its initial state on the left has a
bias toward one side.
Refer to the marked yellow boxes for where to

bend the spring with your pliers to correct it.
You want the top narrower coils to be centered

on top of the spring.
It doesn't have to be perfect.
125
Overall the spring is too wide causing unnecessary
friction inside the mag and robbing you of useful
spring pressure.
This is where the vise comes in.
Compress the spring in the vise as shown in multiple
spots along its length.
126
Ignore the narrower coils toward the top of the
magazine, but focus on the full width coils that make
up the main section of the magazine spring.
Use the magazine body as a guide.
If you slide the spring into the magazine body and
turn it upside down, you should be able to shake it
out without too much effort.
You don't need to get it so narrow that the tube

drops free.
Afterwards look down through the spring and identify
any coils that might have rotated out of alignment
with their neighbors and bring them back into
alignment.
127
Assembling a magazine
Gather a magazine body, a floor plate, a locking tab,

a follower and the modified magazine spring.
Clip the follower on top of the narrow end of the

magazine spring in the correct orientation.
128
Insert the magazine spring with the follower on top
into the magazine body.
While keeping the magazine spring inside the magazine

body push the locking tab onto the bottom of the
magazine spring so that it ends up being flush with
the bottom of the magazine body.
129
While pushing the magazine locking tab inside the
magazine body against the magazine spring pressure,
slide the magazine floor plate over the front on the
bottom of the magazine body and have the round
feature of the locking tab lock itself into the hole
of the magazine floor plate.
130
Assembling the lower
Get the 4mm diameter drill bit and hand ream the hole on the
lower receiver that will hold the hammer pin.
Ream only as much as needed so the drill bit can go through.
Do not ream any more than that, as this will cause issues.
131
Get the 9.5mm diameter drill bit and hand ream the hole on
the lower receiver through which the fire selector will go
into.
Ream only as much as needed so the drill bit can go through.
Do not ream any more than that, as this will cause issues.
132
Put the trigger spring onto the trigger the way you see in the
picture. Insert the disconnector spring into the trigger, if you
haven’t inserted it in there already. Push the disconnector in the
shown orientation into the trigger and hold it onto it against the
pressure of the disconnector spring.
Now hold that assembly together and insert it into the lower receiver.
While pushing this assembly through the bottom hole for the trigger on
the lower receiver, take your AR-15 trigger pin and push it through
the lower receiver as well as the lined up trigger and the
disconnector hole in the trigger.
133
Put the hammer spring onto the hammer as shown in the upper
picture. This will be challenging for you at first, but you
will manage.
Now push with the spring legs leading against the studs on
the trigger in the way shown on the picture.
You will have to fight against that spring pressure.
134
While holding the hammer in position against the
spring pressure, take the 4mm diameter DIN pin and
push it through the dedicated hole while trying to
align the hammer.
With the hammer in the up position apply grease to

the area where hammer and trigger touch each other.
135
Apply grease to the sear at the back of the
hammer as seen in the picture as well as some
grease onto the top sear surface of the trigger.
136
Take the fire selector assembly and apply grease to
the detent cutout area as you can see in the picture.
Now take the fire selector and push it through from

the left side of the lower receiver as you can see
it, in the picture.
137
With the fire selector in the position you see
in the picture, hold the lever in place and then
at the same time put the fire sector detent with
the sharp tip first inside the hole at the
bottomside of the lower receiver near the safety
selector indicators.
138
Take the fire selector detent spring
and put it into the dedicated hole
inside the top of the pistol grip.
139
While making sure the fire selector is in the position mentioned
previously and the fire selector detent still inside the hole, push
the pistol grip onto its mating surface and make sure the fire
selector spring goes against the bottom of the fire selector detent.
As you push against the spring pressure hold the pistol grip in place
and use the Socket Head Screw M6,25mm along with the External-Tooth
Lock Washer M6 DIN 6797 to screw the pistol grip into the lower
receiver. After having done this, you may put the pistol grip lid into
the bottom of the pistol grip in the case that you went with the 3D -
printed pistol grip that is included with the FGC-9 MkII design.
140
Insert the magazine catch button into
the hole you see in upper picture.
Insert the magazine catch spring into

the hole as you can see in the picture.
141
Take the magazine catch bar and push it into its cavity
against the spring pressure of the magazine catch spring and
try to allign the hole on the bar with the hole on the lower
receiver.
Push the magazine catch pivot pin through it.
Now take the feed ramp and put it in the orientation you can
see in the lower picture, into its dedicated square slot on
the top of the lower reciver near the front side.
142
While pushing down on the feed ramp as much as possible from the top,
use the Socket Head Screw M3,12mm to screw the feed ramp into place
with the appropriate allen key.
It is absolutely important that you pushed as much as you can from the
top while screwing in the feed ramp to make sure that the the flat
side on the top side of the feed ramp does not stick put past the top
surface of the lower receiver.
Failing to do so will potentially prevent you from assembling the

lower receiver to the upper receiver and then later on cause issues
with the feeding of cartridges.
143
Assembling the bolt assembly
Take your firing pin spring and shove it onto the firing pin.
You want the side that you didn’t modify and which is still in factory
condition to point towards the the tip.
The idea is, that the intact coil that is going to touch the inside of
the bolt during function, will be less prone to catch on things at the
back of the bolt.
You can now go ahead and shove the firing pin into the back of the
bolt assembly.
144
While making sure that the bolt assembly does not fall out,
tip the bolt assembly with the bolt face down and push
against the back of the firing pin with your finger and
insert the 20mm M3 socket head screw into the small hole on
the left side of the bolt.
Use the appropriate Allen key to screw the socket head screw
as deep in as possible and then afterwards, holding the
socket screw in place with the Allen key, use a socket head
tool to tighten down a M3 nut onto the screw on the other
side of the bolt assembly.
145
Assembling the barrel assembly
Get your headspacing jig and insert the three 16mm

shaft collars into the shaft collar pocket.
Get your barrel and insert a case or cartridge into

the chamber and make sure it is as deeply seated as
possible. Make sure it does not back out.
146
Insert the barrel through the shaft collars from the right
and let it stick out into the main cavity of on the left
side as you can see in the picture.
You will then take your bolt assembly and slowly and
carefully move it into the cavity until the bolt face makes
contact with the inside of the cavity wall. Be sure to do
this as slowly and meticulously as possible as to not move
the case/cartridge and thus barrel further than it was than
at the exact moment when the bolt face touched / kissed the
end of the inside of the cavity.
147
Being extremely careful that you don’t move anything apart from the
bolt assembly, slide the bolt assembly out of the setup and
immediately tighten the grub screw of the center shaft collar.
Then go ahead and tighten the first and third shaft collar to the same
degree. Make sure you press the first and third shaft collar as close
to the center shaft collar as possible as to keep everything as
closely as possible so that the stack maintains its shortest possible
length. Once the center shaft collar can not be moved anymore you then
can go ahead and lift the barrel assembly out of the jig and tighten
the grub screws as hard as you can. The barrel assembly is now
assembled properly and your headspacing should be properly set.
148
Assembling the upper
Take the ejector and try to get it into

its designated slot on the inside of
the upper receiver.
Make sure to put it in there in the
shown orientation.
149
Align the hole on the ejector with the hole on the
underside of the ejector cavity and screw the Socket
Head Screw M3,16mm into place with the appropriate
Allen key.
MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT YOU ARE USING THE 16mm LONG
M3 SOCKET SCREW. If you accidentally screw in the
screw for the bolt assembly for example into this
place, you will damage the upper receiver.
150
Having made sure you screwed the ejector
into place and that the ejector is freely
pivoting inside the upper receiver,
get your charging handle and insert it into
the barrel retainer in the orientation
shown in the bottom picture.
151
If you have silicone spray on hand, spray
silicone spray into the charging handle
cavity on the barrel retainer.
Afterwards, get your barrel assembly and

with the muzzle side first push it through
the barrel retainer from the shaft collar
pocket side.
152
Making sure that the charging handle is in place in the
correct orientation and the barrel assembly sits inside its
pocket in the barrel retainer, push the upper receiver onto
the barrel retainer.
You may now take each of your 40mm M3 screws with each
having a M3 washer on them and use them to screw the barrel
retainer onto the upper receiver. Screw each screw lightly
at first, then go clockwise or in a cross-diagonal manner
screwing the screws tighter in an alternating manner. You
may need to change extensions on your socket tools to reach
all the way down into the barrel retainer cavity.
153
You might be unfortunate to have only access to
socket tools that are too wide and thus won’t be
able to reach all the way down,
in that case try to look for alternate socket
wrench tools until you find something that lets
you screw down the screws firmly into place.
154
Take your top rail and place it on top of
the upper receiver in the orientation shown
in the upper picture.
Now take seven of your 16mm M3 socket

screws and screw the top rail into place
with the appropriate Allen key.
155
Assembling the stock assembly
Insert the secondary buffer spring into its dedicated slot at the bottom of
the buffer tube. When you printed the buffer tube a piece of support that
looks like a rod should have been left. Use that rod piece to push the
secondary buffer spring firmly into place at the bottom of the buffer tube.
To make sure it is firmly in place, try to shake out the buffer spring.
If it doesn’t fall out while shaking the buffer tube violently, it is in

place adequately. If the secondary buffer spring falls out while shaking,
take your pliers and try to expand the last coil on the secondary buffer
spring. Now you will be able to firmly re-insert it into the buffer tube and
it should stay in place for sure.
156
Slide the stock over the buffer tube making sure that
the L shaped feature of the stock points down into
the direction of the hole at the end of the buffer
tube. Your goal is to align the hole on the buffer
tube end with the hole that goes through the main
section of the stock.
You should now be able to use the 30mm long

Socket Head Screw M4 to install the stock
onto the buffer tube.
157
Making sure that the M4 screw is
properly in place as you can see
from the top picture, take the butt
plate and hold it against the end of
the stock.
158
Take your last two 16mm
M3 socket screws and
install the butt plate
onto the stock.
159
Final assembly
If you have silicone spray on hand, spray it on the side and bottom
surface of the bolt assembly.
Now push the bolt assembly into the upper receiver.
There is a trick to inserting the bolt assembly.

You will have to go through the underside of the upper receiver with
your fingers and push the ejector against the inside of the upper
receiver as you push the bolt assembly in.
160
Pull the bolt assembly slightly out of the upper receiver, as to make sure
that you have room near the chamber area of the upper receiver.
This will make sure you can mate the lower receiver against the upper
receiver and prevent the feed ramp from bumping into the bottom of the bolt.
After you have pushed the lower receiver up against the bottom of the upper
receiver, you should be able to slide the lower receiver towards the front
and this should let you properly mate the upper to the lower.
If you encounter issues during this process, you will realize that the feed
ramp will be the main culprit. You will have to make sure you get the bolt
out of the way first and do the aforementioned maneuver to butt the lower up
against the main portion of the upper receive first, then slide the lower
receiver forward and then finally be able to align the holes on the lugs of
the upper receiver with the holes on the ends of the lower receiver.
161
Once you were able to align the holes, you can insert
your last two 40mm M3 screws, along with M3 washers
from one side of the lower receiver and then secure
them on the other side with M3 nuts.
Once the lower is securely attached to the upper you

can push the main buffer spring onto the long bolt
piece towards the inside of the upper receiver.
162
Now push the stock assembly against the
back end of the main assembly and
secure it with the 4x 20mm M3 hex head
screws making sure you include 4x M3
washers.
163
Make sure you push the stock assembly firmly against the
backside of the main assembly while securing each screw. Not
doing so may cause unnecessary stress to the first two or
three screws as are securing the last ones.
So make sure after you started screwing in the first screw,
to constantly hold the stock assembly against the main
assembly while screwing in the rest of the screws.
You have now completed your FGC-9 MkII build.
164
Test firing and maintenance
One of the questions you will ask yourself once you have
completed assembly is where you will fire the first dozen
shots to test your FGC-9 build.
Ideally you have a patch of land, a building, garage or
similar facility that is very far from inhabited areas.
If you do not have access to a remote firing area you can

use a basement.
The next question will be what you will shoot into.
This becomes especially tricky when firing in a basement.
One needs to fire into a so called bullet trap in that case.
A portable and easy to build solution is the following,
a video of one being used is included in the media folder.
Take a 60-liter plastic barrel and fill it with around

25kg of rubber mulch. Before the rubber mulch is poured into
the barrel you can JB weld a 5mm+ thick steel disc that has
the appropriate diameter down at the bottom, inside the
barrel, to guarantee that no pistol caliber projectile can
leave the bullet trap. Use a plastic barrel that has a
plastic lid so that you can simply use strips of electrical
tape to cover the bullet hole entrances.
165
Test Firing
For the first few test shots I recommend you wear gloves and
ballistic eyewear or a welding helmet.
Only load one cartridge for the very first test shot.
Make sure to check that the bullet has left the FGC-9 barrel
and check that there are no cracks or damage of any form on
the gun after each of the first dozen shots. Inspect the
firearm very closely after each shot. If you encounter any
issues while testing the firearm or later down the line
refer to the troubleshooting page.
Maintenance & Repairs

When you have the spare time, brush the inside of your
barrel with an appropriate brush from a cleaning kit and
afterwards make sure that you have a film of lubrication oil
inside the bore.
Use the occasion when cleaning your barrel bore, to also

spray some silicone spray into the inside of your firearm
(mainly inside the upper receiver where the bolt rides on),
so that the parts that are printed, interact smoothly.
If anything breaks on your FGC-9, first try to replace the
part by 3D-printing it again.
If that is not possible for you because of convenience or

serious issues like time constraints and urgent need on the
use of your FGC-9 you can resort to a technique called “PLA
welding”.
Essentially you will take some PLA filament string and have
it act like soldering material and use your soldering iron
to melt the new PLA filament into a crevice or crack on your
broken part. This is a very effective solution for repairing
your 3D-printed parts.
If you can wait a day before you need the part, you can
resort to using JB-Weld to repair broken areas. After it
dries(12-24h) you can file and sand the repaired area to
ensure smooth function. Using JB-Weld will be tougher than
PLA repair.
166
Troubleshooting
Text and diagrams by IvanTheTroll
Check your primers to determine,

whether your FGC-9 is functioning properly.
Good Primer Hits - Note the little to no bulging

Note these hits are a little off-center, this is about the furthest
off-center the hits can be before the gun won't work!
Slightly Bulged Primers, these might be ok,

but if the gun has extraction issues,
consider these primers to be bulged and follow the steps.
Dangerous degree of bulging or punctured/ruptured primers,

refer to the diagrams to identify the causes of these issues.
167
When it comes to the issues the FGC-9 may face,
two stand out as most common:
Failures to extract (the fired casing does not leave the chamber)
Issues with the firing pin(the primer on the cartridge is hit but
does not ignite, or the firing pin is poking holes all the way through
primers)
These steps will walk you through the tips and tricks that have been
shown to help alleviate or completely solve these issues
Troubleshooting Failures to Extract

The most common causes of FTEs(Failures to Extract) are:
a poorly cut/misshaped chamber and/or an issue with headspacing.
The frustrating part about solving this issue is that it’s hard to be
sure exactly which part (the chamber or headspacing) is to blame for
your FTEs.
Do note that these steps/instructions are meant for troubleshooting

guns that are using barrels made via the ECM process –if you have
these issues using a factory or reamed chamber, then your issue might
be due to your firing pin.
Skip to the section about firing pin issues and follow those steps.
This flow diagram should help you identify what your issue might be.
Based on which answer you arrive at in the flowchart, follow the

instructions after the flowchart.
168
Chamber is too tight/poorly cut
First off –if you made your barrel following the ECM process and you
didn’t use a tapered chambering rod, understand that this issue is
usually best resolved by using a tapered chambering rod. If you didn’t
use the ECM process to make your barrel and the flowchart lead you
here, there are two things that can be wrong with your chamber that
can cause FTEs.
One is that the chamber itself being too tight –this can best be
resolved by cutting for 10 more seconds on the chamber (assuming you
used the ECM setup to make your barrel). The other thing is that your
chamber seat is very curved/poorly defined. You will be able to tell
which of these two things is happening by taking a live round and
letting the bolt slam it into the chamber. Take the round out and look
at it. If the round is shiny around the case mouth (where the bullet
sits inside the case), then your chamber seat is poorly defined. If
the case mouth looks good, then it’s most likely that your chamber is
just too tight (especially if anywhere on the case that isn’t the case
mouth is shiny).
If you determine that your chamber is just too tight, go back to your
ECM setup and cut for 10 more seconds, then repeat the process of
checking if the chamber is too tight. If you determine that your
chamber seat is to blame, you probably cut your throat too wide during
the ECM process (stick closer to the specs in the documentation next
time). You will probably have to redo you barrel.
However, you can still try the troubleshooting tips in the

“Headspacing is wrong” section if you would like to make absolutely
certain it is your chamber that is the issue.
Your issue might be headspacing or the chamber
This is the worst spot to be in. I recommend you follow the steps from
the next section first, and if that doesn’t solve your issue, follow
the steps in the section above this one. There’s no good way to tell
what’s going wrong with your build, so you’ll have to check both–
however, the only time one of my builds ended up in this spot is when
I had a proper chamber, but I had too little headspacing (read the
next section to understand what this means).There is also a small
chance your issue is your firing pin itself–refer to the “Firing Pin
Troubleshooting” section below if you suspect this is the case.
169
Headspacing is wrong / Headspacing is your issue
This is probably the easiest issue to check/resolve.First, you’ll need
to understand what “headspacing” is. Headspacing refers to the
distance between the face of the bolt and the rear end of the
cartridge case. When speaking in terms of the FGC-9, LESS headspace
means that the barrel is moving rearwards (towards the bolt), MORE
headspace means the barrel is moving forwards (away from the bolt).
Too little headspacing means that that bolt will ram a cartridge hard
into the chamber, and it will be the cartridge itself in the chamber
the stops the bolt. Too much headspacing means that the bolt won’t
actually be touching the rear end of the cartridge (or it will only
barely be touching it) –this is what would cause bulged primers and
could potentially be dangerous. Perfect headspacing is where the bolt
will push the cartridge fully into the chamber and be resting against
both the rear end of the cartridge AND the front wall of the upper
receiver at the same time. The steps that follow describe how to help
make sure your headspacing is where it is supposed to be.
On the FGC-9, you’ll want your headspacing to be 0.00mm or less
(meaning the bolt is resting against the rear end of the cartridge).
However, you want your headspacing to be as close to 0.00mm as
possible. You can establish this using the FGC-9 headspacing jig, but
sometimes the headspace you set with that tool won’t be quite perfect
–you may still need to decrease headspace some.
Always start with the headspacing that you set on the jig, and after
testing you can adjust from there.
The jig should never be causing too little headspace –if you suspect
your issue is having too little headspace, reset your barrel using the
jig and confirm it before moving the barrel forward.
170
NOTE: If you suspect you have too much headspacing (which can happen
sometimes after using the jig), firstcheck that the bolt is not
getting stopped by the charging handle –when the bolt is all the way
forward, the charging handle should NOT be touching the bolt face. The
easy way to check this is to let the bolt and charging handle go all
the way forward.
The charging handle should be able to move forward and backward a

little without moving the bolt at all. If your charging handle is
touching the bolt when the bolt is closed, you should grind down the
long leg on your charging handle or drill the recess in the bolt face
a little deeper.
Finally, if you’ve made sure that you started with a barrel that was
set up on the headspacing jig, and that the charging handle is not
touching the bolt face when the bolt is closed, you are ready to make
a change to your headspace. Remove the barrel and shaft collar
assembly. Make a visual note of where the barrel sits in relation to
the shaft collars. Loose the sets screws on the shaft collars. Move
the barrel rearward (towards where the bolt would be) relative tothe
shaftcollars.If the shaft collars feel tight or the barrel won’t move
in them, make sure the set screws are loosened and tap the barre l with
a hammer to move it.
After ensuring that the barrel has moved backward a little (when I say
a little, I mean like 0.5mm –it only needs to move a tiny amount),
tighten the shaft collars and reinstall the barrel. If primers are
still getting bulged or you are still having FTEs, follow the
flowchart again.
171
Firing Pin Troubleshooting
If you are experiencing light primer strikes, ruptured primers, or a
failure to extract that you could not solve by following steps from
the flowchart above, this section should be able to help you. First
off –the FGC-9 runs best with about 2mm of firing pin extension. This
value does not need to be very precise, and depending on your setup
and ammo used, a firing pin with as little as 1mm of extension or as
much as 3mm of extension might work fine. This section will help you
fix issues with your firing pin.
Light Strikes
The most common cause for light primer strikes (the primer get hit but
the round doesn’t go off) is that something is wrong with the firing
pin. There is a small chance that the issue is headspacing
(covered in the “Troubleshooting Failures to Extract (FTE)”,
so be aware your barrel might be set too far forward in the shaft
collars – but don’t worry about changing this until you’ve made sure
your firing pin is correctly set up. This flow diagram should help you
identify what your issue might be. Based on which answer you arrive at
in the flowchart, follow the instructions after the flowchart.
172
Your Firing Pin Channel is too far off Center
This is an annoying situation to be in. I’ve tried a huge number of
things to try and fix this problem, but the only real solution is to
make a new bolt. Pay very close attention to drilling the firing pin
channel straight and ensure that the end of the lower bolt rod (the
one with the firing pin channel) that you drilled into (the side
facing up in the jig) is the side of the rod that faces forward
whenever you mate your rods together.
The Firing pin Length is an Issue

First thing –check that your firing pin has the correct overall
length(about 67.50mm).
If your firing pin is too long or too short, you can have light
strikes. Go back to the firing pin documentation and ensure all the
dimensions in the instructions line up with your firing pin. If either
end of your firing pin is too long, you can trim it down slightly and
check if that fixes your issue. If either end of your firing pin is
too short, you will need to make a new firing pin and pay closer
attention to the instructions –more often that not, it’s getting the
shaft collar in the right spot that is the issue.
Firing Pin is FUBAR

If you ended up here, your firing pin channel is either over 3mm off
or your firing pin is totally wrong. Assuming your bolt isn’t way off,
then you need to redo your firing pin and slow down to read the
documentation/get the measurements right.
Firing pin Channel is too Tight

Take the drill bit you used to drill out your firing pin channel.
Using your drill, drill from the front of the bolt, spinning the drill
at a high speed while moving it in and out of the hole. Apply a little
silicone oil to the firing pin hole and test again.
Your Firing Pin Channel is off Center and Needs

Fitting
So –your firing pin channel is off center, but at least some portion
of your firing pin indent is still hitting the middle of the primer.
You may be having inconsistent primer hits because your off-center
firing pin channel is causing the shaft collar on the firing pin to
drag against the internal cavity of the bolt housing. Inspect your
firing pin/bolt housing and look to see if the shaft collar is in
contact with the bolt housing. If it is, you can use a rotary
tool/Dremel tool/drill to try and remove a little material from the
bolt housing so that the firing pin shaft collar won’t be dragging
against the bolt housing. Just be careful not to remove too much
material!
173
Firing pin Channel is Obstructed
Take the drill bit you used to drill out your firing pin channel.
Using your drill, drill from the front of the bolt, spinning the drill
at a high speed while moving it in and out of the hole. Apply a little
silicone oil to the firing pin hole and test again.
Firing pin is Bent

This is an indicator that your headspace might be wrong or your firing
pin might have been too long –a firing pin that is too long,
especially when headspace isn’t right, can puncture primers, which can
bend firing pins.
If your firing pin has bent, you can try to straighten it back out
(and then shorten it to the specs called out in the documentation),
but I recommend you make a whole new firing pin. Refer to the previous
section (Troubleshooting Failures to Extract (FTE)) to check your
headspace, and refer to the documentation for making a new firing
pin/straightening your old one.
Punctured Primers
If you are having punctured primers, you should stop using your FGC-9
and fix this issue. The two things that could cause punctured primers
are an issue with headspace and a firing pin with too much
extension(too long). If you have punctured primers, first make sure
headspace is set correctly -refer to the previous section
(Troubleshooting Failures to Extract (FTE)). If you still have
punctured primers after ensuring headspace is good, then you will need
to make a new firing pin (or identify which end of your firing pin is
too long and trim it down to size according to the instructions for
making your firing pin).
Failure to Extract due to Firing Pin

This issue is rather uncommon, but I have noticed it before. You can
have failures to extract because a firing pin has too much extension.
The quick and easy way to check this issue out is to measure how much
extension your firing pin has. The best way to do this is to remove
the barrel from your gun and let the hammer hit the firing pin –when
it comes to a rest, it will be pushing the firing pin to its extended
position. While looking from the front of the gun (with the barrel
removed), take a note of how far the firing pin is sticking out past
the face of the bolt –it should only be 1 or 2mm. If it is sticking
out a long distance, you might want to make sure that the tip of the
firing pin isn’t pointed (it should be a flat shape on the tip), and
make sure to grind it down a little so that about 2mm of the firing
pin is sticking out past the bolt face.
174

FGC-9 MkII GuideV2

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

FGC-9 MkII GuideV2

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

FGC-9 MkII GuideV2

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

The GataLog

Document version: 1.0

Author of this document:

Co-Designers of the FGC-9 MkII:

Special thanks to:

Ambidextrous 3 D-printed SEMI/SAFE

Pistol grip with acessory compartment

NATO accessory rail

If you had success in producing your FGC-9 or simply

Even a tiny donation will be appreciated. Any funds donated

These settings were optimized for Creality Ender 3 printers in

The FGC-9 was designed to be printed in PLA/PLA+.

Filament type: PLA (Recommended PLA brands on page 21)

The orientation of the parts in the slicer program will load up as

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt

Charging Handle Bushing

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Fan Speed: 80%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Drilling Jig Hole Half

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Only for this part

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt

Only print for weld option

Fan Speed: 50%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Only print for weld option

Weldless Bolt Grinding Jig

Fan Speed: 80%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Only print for weldless option

Weldless Bolt Housing

Fan Speed: 50%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Only print for weldless option

Fan Speed: 50%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt

Fan Speed: 0% / OFF

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt

Magazine Catch Bar

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt

Magazine Catch Button

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Only for this part,

Fan Speed: 100%

Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim

Fan Speed: 20%