Recoleta Cemetery

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If you think of cemeteries as depressingly dark, underground affairs, Buenos Aires’ Recoleta

Cemetery will turn that on its head – not least because most of the graves are built above
ground.

Considered one of the most unusual cemeteries in the world, the site was declared the city’s
first official public burial place in 1822. Aside from being the resting place of the deceased, it is
completely unlike a normal cemetery. The place is full of elaborately carved scroll-work and
stately pillars that only reach up to your shoulder because all the structures are weirdly mini;
it’s more magical than macabre. The burial site of Argentina’s most famous figures including
Evita herself, presidents of Argentina, Nobel Prize winners, the founder of the Argentine Navy,
and military commanders like Julio Argentino Roca.

History

Franciscan Recollect monks (los recoletos) arrived in this area, then the outskirts of Buenos
Aires, in the early eighteenth century. The cemetery is built around the Convento de la
Recoleta and a church, Nuestra Señora del Pilar, built in 1732.

The order was disbanded in 1822, and the garden of the convent was converted into the first
public cemetery in Buenos Aires. Inaugurated on 17 November of the same year under the
name of Cementerio del Norte, those responsible for its creation were the then-Governor
Martin Rodríguez, who would be eventually buried in the cemetery, and government minister
Bernardino Rivadavia.

The 1822 layout was done by French civil engineer Próspero Catelin, who also designed the
current facade of the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral. The cemetery was last remodeled
in 1881, while Torcuato de Alvear was mayor of the city, by the Italian architect Juan Antonio
Buschiazzo.

Some stories

The girl who died twice: Rufina Cambaceres (1883-1902)

It was at Rufina Cambaceres’ 19th birthday party when a friend told her that her mother was
having an affair with Rufina’s boyfriend. Distraught, Rufina goes to her room where she is later
found dead—a heart attack is suspected. She is placed in the family plot at Recoleta Cemetery.
That night, the groundskeeper hears voices coming from the mausoleum. Investigation the
next day finds the coffin moved several inches. When opened, scratches are found on the
inside of the coffin and all over Rufina’s face and neck. The poor woman was mistaken for dead
and tragically suffered a horrible second death trying to escape.

The girl and her faithful companion: Liliana Crociati de Szaszak (1944 – 1970)

Liliana Crociati de Szaszak was in Innsbruck, Austria on her honeymoon when an avalanche
swept over her hotel and she died of suffocation. Rumour has it that she and her dog Sabú
were so attached that he died in Buenos Aires at the same time. The life-size statue of Liliana,
supposedly in her wedding dress, is strikingly beautiful. Interestingly, her beloved dog stands
next to her; no one is quite sure what happened to her hubby.
A grudge for eternity: Salvador Maria del Carril and Tiburcia Domínguez

An enormous mausoleum commemorates the life of Salvador María del Carril and his wife
Tiburcia Domínguez. The weird thing is, the busts depicting the two have their backs to each
other. The story goes that del Carril, an important figure in Argentinian politics, was outraged
by his wife’s spending. He got so angry that he published a letter in major newspapers advising
merchants that he’d no longer be paying for any of his wife’s expenditures. That didn’t go over
well with Tiburcia who published her own letter describing what a horrible man her husband
was and vowing she’d never speak to him again. Although they stayed together, she
apparently kept her promise and didn’t speak to her husband for the remaining 20 years of his
life. Tiburcia lived another 15 years, throwing lavish parties. Before she died in 1898, she
requested that her bust look away from her husband. Ouch…holding a grudge for eternity
can’t be good.

The ugly duckling tomb: Gen Tomás Guido (1788 – 1866)

After all those disturbing stories, I’ll end with a nice one. The tomb of Tomás Guido, an
important general in the Argentine War of Independence, is unlike any other at Recoleta. It is a
rough-looking thing made of irregular shaped rocks. His son, poet and politician Carlos Guido y
Spano, said: “Anyone can hire builders and artists. Out of respect for my father, I’m building
this tomb myself, one rock at a time.”

In case you’re wondering, that green one next to the general’s belongs to Admiral Guillermo
Brown, an Irish-born admiral and founder of Argentina’s navy. His tomb is unique, featuring
marine-inspired carvings. The green colour is in honour of his Irish heritage.

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