Evans AC System
Evans AC System
Technician Training
By
Evans Tempcon Inc.
Rev D. 2/1/11
A/C SYSTEM OPERATIONAL CHECK
The following is an A/C system "Field Test" and Evaluation Procedure to be used by service personnel. This
procedure can be used to determine if an Evans A/C system is performing properly, and contains the correct
refrigerant charge. The performance guidelines shown are approximate, and subject to many operational
variables. Ambient temperature must be 50 deg F or above to accurately test for A/C performance.
1. Park the vehicle and set the engine speed at 1500 RPM.
2. Set the HVAC controls to "MAX A/C", the blower at HIGH speed, and the temperature control dial to the
coldest setting.
3. Visually verify that the A/C compressor clutch is engaged, and the compressor is operating. Verify that
the heater coolant valve is closed, and the heater coil tubes are neutral or cool to the touch.
4. The suction hose fitting (at the evaporator outlet) should be cold to the touch. This fitting may sweat or
even frost slightly. The liquid hose fitting (at the evaporator inlet) should be warm to the touch.
5. Chilled air should be discharged from the supply louvers in the cab. After 3-5 minutes of A/C operation
the system should begin to cool.
6. Air inlet / outlet temperature differentials are greatly affected by ambient temperature and relative
humidity. In cool ambient conditions, differentials smaller than 30 degrees may be seen. Air can only be
chilled to a certain level, and then the A/C compressor will cycle off to prevent evaporator freeze-up. High
humidity may also result in smaller differentials; a large amount of cooling capacity is required to dehumidify
the air, as well as cool it. See Estimated A/C Performance Guidelines for acceptable ranges of performance.
ESTIMATED A/C PERFORMANCE GUIDELINES
REQUIRED INFORMATION
1. PARK THE VEHICLE AND SET THE ENGINE SPEED TO ~1500 RPM.
2. SET THE HVAC CONTROLS TO "MAX A/C", THE BLOWER SET AT HIGH SPEED, AND THE TEMPERATURE
CONTROL DIAL TO THE COLDEST SETTING THEN ALLOW THE SYSTEM TO STABLIZE (5 - 10 MINUTES).
3. MEASURE OR FIND THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY THE DAY OF SERVICING THE RV AND
RECORD.
4. MEASURE THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CAB AIR ENTERING THE RECIRCULATION INLET AIR GRILLE (i.e.
“Max A/C” ventilation mode) AND RECORD.
5. MEASURE THE TEMPERATURE OF THE AIR DISCHARGING THE LOUVER CLOSEST TO THE HVAC UNIT.
6. SUBTRACT THE DISCHARGE AIR TEMPERATURE VALUE FROM THE INLET AIR TEMPERATURE VALUE
TO CALCULATE THE “INLET/OUTLET AIR TEMPERATURE DIFFERENTIAL AND THEN RECORD THE
VALUE.
8. COMPARE YOUR RECORD WITH THE “ESTIMATED A/C PERFORMANCE GUIDELINES” SECTION.
10. IF SYSTEM VALUES DO NOT FALL WITH THE GUIDELINES THEN GO BACK TO THE “TECHNICAL
SUPPORT” PAGE AND CLICK ON “HVAC SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES” AND ACCESS THE
“AC TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE”.
ESTIMATED A/C PERFORMANCE GUIDELINES
The following performance guidelines are based on test conditions outlined under "A/C System
Operational Check". Variables such as engine speed, condenser airflow, sun load, blower motor
speed, and chassis voltage will all affect A/C system performance.
Air Temperature (F) Entering A/C Unit Inlet - Outlet Air Temperature Differential**
FRESH OR RECIRCULATED LOW HUMIDITY HIGH HUMIDITY
50 5-10 5-10
60 10-20 10-15
70 20-25 15-20
80 25-30 20-25
90 25-35 20-30
100 30-35 25-30
110 35-40 30-35
** The outlet louver closest to the A/C unit usually discharges the coldest air. The warmest inlet air
temperature (fresh or recirculated) should also be used for the Differential calculation.
2. SOME REFRIGERANT LOSS WILL OCCUR IN ONE YEAR’S TIME AND THIS IS RECOGNIZED AS
NORMAL. VIBRATION, HOSE POROSITY AND GENERAL CONSTRUCTION OF THE SYSTEM MAKE A
LEAK PROOF SYSTEM NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE.
3. THE SAE DEFINED ACCEPTABLE LEAK RATE IS 0.5 OUNCES OR 14 GRAMS PER YEAR AND IS
USED TO DETERMINE THE SENSITIVITY OF ELECTRONIC PROBE TYPE LEAK DETECTORS.
a) USE A WET RAG TO CLEAN OR REMOVE ALL DYE DISCOVERED DURING INITIAL
EXAMINATION.
b) PERFORM THE “AC SYSTEMS OPERATIONAL CHECK PROCEDURE” LISTED IN THE
TECHNICAL SUPPORT SECTION OF THE WEBSITE.
c) RE-EXAMINE AC SYSTEM FOR ANY NEW DYE THAT MIGHT HAVE APPEARED.
d) IF NEW DYE IS DISCOVERED THEN PERFORM THE REPAIR(S). CLEAN ALL DYE AGAIN SO
THE NEXT TECHNICIAN DOES NOT ASSUME THAT THIS IS A NEW LEAK OR MIS-DIAGNOSE
THE PROBLEM.
5. EVANS DOES NOT RECOMMEND OR ENDORSE THE USE OF “STOP LEAK” or “LEAK SEALING”
PRODUCTS.
R134a
REFRIGERANT ALLOWANCE CHART
(BASED ON ACTUAL SYSTEM REFRIGERANT CHARGE CAPACITY)
Revised 10/18/11
RV APPLICATIONS
TROUBLESHOOTING
WEB BASED TECHNICAL SUPPORT
ALLOWS YOU
TO DOWNLOAD
FILES IN PDF
FORMAT
COOLANT
VALVE IS NOT
FUNCTIONING
EVANS ELECTRONIC VALVE AND
ELECTRONIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
for systems equipped with the EVANS electric coolant valve and control system.
This guide is intended for use with the EVANS electronic coolant valve shown
at left and its control system.
For other electronic coolant control systems, refer to Cable-less Electronic
Valve – 2002 and Prior.
For other HVAC system components, diagnoses, and repair, refer back to the
Cable and Rotary Control Systems Menu for the appropriate topic.
NOTICE
Read the entire troubleshooting guide and familiarize yourself with the procedures before attempting any of the procedures
described in this document.
VALVE IDENTIFICATION
There are two types of actuators on the valves that Evans supplies as shown in the illustration below. The significant difference in the
valves is the arrangement of the terminals in the connector housing on the actuator. Old style valves used from 2002 to 2005 have a
distinct “T” pattern as shown on the right and the manufacturer’s logo “Seitz” on the actuator, while newer valves used from 2006 and
later have the terminals located in the four corner positions of the connector housing, as seen on the left, and the actuator
manufacturer’s logo “CEI” on the cover.
NEW OLD
Inspect the main harness valve connector and valve pin pattern to ensure the correct valve was previously installed on the
vehicle. The connector pattern should have three wires in a straight line for the old style valve (on left below), not a 3 corner
or ‘L’ pattern for the new valve (on right below). If a new style valve has been installed on a vehicle with an older style
harness, a jumper harness needs to be installed between the harness and the valve to correctly orient the terminals for the new style
valve. Contact your service parts representative if it is determined a jumper harness is required and you do not have one.
Evans service parts kit # RV218999 is intended for use to replace an old style valve with a new valve and contains the
necessary jumper harness along with the valve. Service parts kit # RV218967 is intended for systems that have the new style
valve and harness and does not contain the jumper harness for older systems.
When plugging the connector from the harness into the valve connector
socket, be sure to push the connector straight into the socket and do not
rock the connector as it is inserted as this could cause the pins in the
connector to become bent or misaligned.
OLD NEW
SYSTEMS CHECK
Before attempting to troubleshoot, verify that the HVAC system (other than temperature control) is operating correctly. With the vehicle
running, test-operate the system and check the following:
1. With the vehicle running and the A/C system engaged (Blower turned on, Mode selector set to "MAX A/C", Temperature dial rotated to
full cool), clamp off the heater inlet hose to see if the A/C system is cooling properly. Test the A/C performance using the A/C Systems
Operational Check and Estimated A/C Performance Guidelines. Once this has been determined (and corrected if necessary), remove the
clamp from the coolant inlet hose.
• If a significant loss in cooling capacity in the A/C system occurs when the clamp is removed, shut the vehicle off, and carefully
follow the step-by-step directions listed below for troubleshooting the coolant control system. If a problem is found,
repair/correct the fault before proceeding to the next step. When troubleshooting electric and/or electronic components, care
must be taken to prevent component damage while inspecting, using a test meter, light, etc. If questions or concerns arise
during the troubleshooting process, contact Evans Tempcon for telephone assistance before proceeding further (1-800-878-
7147).
COMPONENT TESTING
• 1. The temperature control is located in the center of the HVAC system control panel. Rotate the potentiometer knob to verify
smooth operation. The knob should rotate freely from the cool stop (blue), to the warm stop (red). Do not force the knob to
rotate past the cool or warm stops. Doing so will cause irreparable damage to the potentiometer control. If the knob can be
rotated past the internal stop at the full cool and full heat positions, the potentiometer must be replaced before any further
valve diagnostics is done.
• 2. Locate the electronic coolant valve assembly in the heater base unit compartment, near the Evans Heater-Evaporator unit
(on the firewall). The electrical connector is located on the top of the actuator housing.
• 3. Verify that the port on the outlet side of the valve is connected to the inlet tube on the heater coil. A flow direction indicator
is located on the side of the valve to help distinguish inlet and outlet ports. Also, the inlet side of the valve is always on the
same side as the harness connector. New valves also have tape wrapped around the inlet port that clearly identifies the inlet
port (see the illustration at the beginning of this guide). The coolant supply hose from the engine connects to the inlet side of
the valve.
– NOTE: The electronic coolant valve is a "directional" valve, and must be correctly installed, or it will not
function properly. Coolant valves installed with the coolant flow reversed will leak coolant past the valve cylinder
resulting in poor A/C performance. Valves that have been installed backwards should be replaced as damage to the
seals can occur if the coolant flow has been applied in the wrong direction.
CAUTION
Removal of the coolant valve should be performed when the engine is cold. Attempting to remove the valve from the
system when the engine is hot could result in burns and/or serious injury due to extremely hot coolant escaping
under pressure. Do not start the engine while the coolant lines are disconnected as the engine will quickly pump the
system dry, which could result in damage to the engine.
4. Verify that the heater supply hose (containing the coolant valve) is actually the hose coming from the supply port on the engine.
The supply port is usually on, or near the engine thermostat housing. To positively identify the supply line, remove the valve from
the coolant lines and place both ends of the lines into a container to capture escaping fluid. Have an assistant "turn over" the
engine while you observe the coolant lines. The line that discharges coolant when the engine is turned over is the supply
line for the HVAC system.
NOTE: Note this procedure will not be useful for systems with a bypass or “H” fitting. Correct plumbing will have
to be checked at “H” fitting in this case. See your vehicle chassis manual for systems with “H” bypass fittings in the coolant
lines.
ELECTRICAL TESTING
1. Verify positive electrical connections at the coolant valve. Verify that a new valve has not been installed on an older
system without a jumper harness.
A. If a new valve has been installed on an older system a jumper harness is required between the main harness and valve.
B. If a new valve is installed on newer system, a jumper harness should not be used between the valve and main harness.
NOTE: SEE SECTION 1, VALVE IDENTIFICATION FOR MORE INFORMATION REGARDING NEW AND OLD STYLE
VALVES.
2. Unplug the wire harness connector from the coolant valve connector. Check the socket terminals for damage. Inspect the pin
terminals on the coolant valve connector for damage. If any pins in the valve connector are loose or broken, replace the valve.
Refer to the Electrical System Schematics for correct pin locations and wire colors.
Note: Some early production Seitz valve actuators have a short four wire lead. Check the leads to insure they match the pin locations
on the wire harness connector. The blue wire on the valve lead is for the manufacturer’s testing purposes and is not used during
normal valve operation. When replacing this valve, order Evans kit # RV218999.
3. Use a DC voltage test meter and find a good vehicle ground for the negative probe. Do not use the negative connection on the
wire harness.
4. Insert the positive probe from the meter into the black wire terminal on the wire harness valve connector. The voltage value
should always read 0 VDC because this is the ground connection for the hot water valve.
NOTE: If voltage is detected on this circuit the entire harness should be visually inspected for damage, incomplete or misaligned
connections. Do not proceed with testing until this voltage bleed has been resolved.
5. Insert the positive probe from the meter into the red wire terminal of the wire harness valve connector. The voltage value
should always read near the vehicle’s regulated voltage. If not then you have an issue with the wire harness or fuse.
NOTE: Low system voltage could be the result of numerous causes and will cause the valve to fail to operate. Do not proceed with
testing until this voltage issue has been resolved.
6. Insert the positive probe from the meter into the yellow wire terminal of the wire harness valve connector. Rotate the
temperature control knob to the far left (BLUE) position. The voltage value should always read near the vehicle’s regulated
voltage when the potentiometer is in the closed (BLUE) position.
7. Rotate the temperature control knob to the far right and measure the yellow wire connection. The voltage value should
always read 0 VDC when the potentiometer is in the open (RED) position.
8. If the proper voltage readings are not measured at either valve position and all other electrical issues have been resolved,
then replace the temperature control potentiometer (Evans replacement part # RV218549).
ELECTRONIC VALVE
9. If the voltages readings at the valve connector are normal then carefully plug the connector into the valve and then remove
the HVAC control panel to access the temperature control potentiometer connector.
10. Remove the connector from the potentiometer and install a jumper wire on the connector from the red wire terminal to the
yellow wire terminal. This will apply full vehicle voltage to the valve and force the valve to fully close. Look into the valve
coolant inlet to visually verify that the valve is completely closed.
11/ Change the jumper from the red wire terminal to the black wire terminal so that the jumper connects the yellow wire
terminal to the black wire terminal. This will ground the control wire of the actuator and the valve should be completely
open. Visually verify again.
NOTE: By nature of the design of the valve, when the coolant valve gate is fully open, half of the valve port opening appears to be
blocked. At no time will the valve port appear to be empty
12. If the valve does not visually open or close completely then replace it, attach the coolant inlet hose and
secure assembly for proper operation.
13. Proceed to SYSTEM VERIFICATION TEST to determine if repair is complete. Keep in mind that if
heated coolant has traveled through the heater core prior to these tests then it will take several minutes
before the core cools and proper valve operation can be verified. Operating the A/C system for a few
minutes will speed up the process of cooling the heater core.
1. Attach both coolant hoses to the correct valve ports, reinstall the control panel, and secure the vehicle for
operation.
3. Rotate the temperature control to full cool (BLUE - far left position).
4. Start the engine and set the engine speed to1500 rpms if possible. Remember to have the vehicle
transmission in neutral gear and the parking brake ON.
5. Measure the Fresh Air inlet temperature and the dash vent air temperature nearest to the unit (passenger
side dash louver) and record the values. Repeat these measurements at 5 minute increments until the
engine has reached normal operating temperatures.
6. If the inlet and outlet temperature difference does not vary significantly as the engine warms the coolant
then the valve can be considered completely closed. If the temperature difference increases significantly
then the valve is leaking coolant through the heater core; replace the valve assembly.
7. Rotate the temperature control to full heat; an immediate significant temperature change should occur
between the inlet and outlet temperature readings.
8. Rotate the temperature control back to full cool and monitor the temperature differential. The change will
be slower, but the outlet temperature should drop to where no significant difference is detected between
inlet and outlet temperatures. If the temperature difference does not stabilize then the valve is leaking
coolant through the heater core; replace the valve assembly.
9. Once the faulty component has been identified, the new replacement permanently installed, and everything is buttoned
back up, perform an actual function test for warm and cool air with the vehicle running. Test A/C performance using the
A/C Systems Operational Check and Estimated A/C Performance Guidelines.
ELECTRICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING FOR EVANS TEMPCON HEATER A/C SYSTEMS
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES REMEDY
1.A/C Clutch does not operate *Faulty Rotary Mode Selector *Check for switch continuity. Replace if necessary.
Blower operates as it should. Switch
*Clutch Circuit Wires have fallen *Re-install clutch circuit wires as required.
off of Clutch Terminal,
Thermostat or Pressure Switch.
*Faulty A/C Thermostat *Jumper across thermostat terminals. If clutch engages, replace thermostat.
*Faulty A/C Clutch *With engine OFF apply 12V+ supply directly to clutch terminals and listen for
clutch engagement. Replace clutch if engagement. Replace clutch if
there is no engagement.
*Faulty Chassis Circuitry *Referring to accompanying wiring, (Chevrolet & Ford) diagram, if voltage is read
at point “A” when A/C switch is depressed and clutch engages when 12V+ power
is applied directly to clutch terminal, problem is originating in chassis wiring.
Refer to chassis manufacturer's service manual.
2.HVAC Accessory Fuse Blows *Short Circuit in Clutch *Inspect all associated wiring (blue wire from control panel to thermostat, wiring
when Rotary Mode Selector Circuit Wiring from thermostat to pressure switch and from pressure switch to clutch.
switch is in any position except
“OFF”, "Vent", and "Floor".
2. Cont’d * Short Circuit in Clutch * With engine OFF apply an 8 amp fused 12V+ power supply directly
to Clutch terminals. If fuse blows, replace Clutch.
3. Blower Does Not Operate at * A/C Circuit Fuse is Blown * Replace with 25 Amp Fuse and test system for proper operation.
any speed.
* Power Lead to Control Panel * Re-install Power Lead to Coach Manufacturer’s specified terminal
has fallen off at the power at fuse block.
source (fuse block).
* Ground Wire for Control Panel * Check that ring terminal on black wire of harness is adequately
has fallen off or has come loose fastened to a good chassis ground.
from the chassis ground location.
* Wire Harness connector(s) at * Re-install Connector(s) and check blower for proper operation
resistor or motor has fallen off.
* Open Circuit in Wire Harness * Inspect wiring from Resistor to motor, from power source to control
Between Resistor and Blower panel and from control panel to resistor. Repair broken wires as
Motor or from Power Source to required.
Control Panel or from Panel to
Resistor.
* Faulty Control Panel * With vehicle ignition switch in the ON position, rotate mode selector
switch to any position except OFF and rotate blower switch to the
HIGH speed setting. Using a voltmeter, check for voltage in the orange
wire at the resistor. If no voltage is read, replace control panel.
* Faulty Resistor * With vehicle ignition switch in the ON position, rotate blower switch
to high speed. Using a voltmeter, check for voltage at the
resistor pin which feeds the red motor wire. If no voltage is read,
replace resistor.
ELECTRICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING (Cont’d)
4. Blower does not operate * Improperly installed Wire * Inspect connectors at each end of at all speeds. Connectors end of the
connectors wire harness. Ensure that all socket terminals on the ends of the leads
are fully inserted and locked into the connector. Push the connectors
fully into the Control Panel, and the Resistor Terminals. Check Blower for
normal operation.
* Faulty Control Panel * With the vehicle ignition switch in the ON position, rotate Blower
Switch to a speed that isn't working using the accompanying wiring
diagram, locate the corresponding terminal on the back of the control
for the fan switch speed position selected. Measure the voltage at
this terminal. If no voltage is read, replace Blower Switch.
* Open Circuit in Wire Harness * Remove the 4 wire connector of wire harness from the resistor. Re-
install wire harness connections at the Control Panel. With the vehicle
ignition switch in ON position rotate the Blower Switch to a speed
that isn't working. Using the accompanying wiring diagram,
identify the corresponding wire color for the fan speed position
selected. Measure the voltage at the termination of the wire in the
four socket connector. If no voltage is read, inspect the wire for
damage and repair as required.
ELECTRICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING (Cont’d)
5. HVAC Circuit fuse blows * Damaged wiring between Resistor*Inspect all associated wiring for insulation chafing or other damage
when blower is turned on and Motor, or between Resistor that would result in shorting the circuit. Repair as required.
to any speed and Control Panel. Possible
damaged red power lead wire
between control panel and fused
power source.
*Short Circuit at Resistor * Remove resistor from Air Box and inspect the Resistor windings for
evidence of electrical arching. Re-install Resistor ensuring that
none of the windings or metal contacts are touching any portion
of the Air Box itself.
* Faulty Blower Motor * With the engine Off apply 25 amp fused, 12V+ power supply directly
the terminals on the motor. If fuse blows, replace the motor.
6. HVAC Circuit Fuse Blows * Damaged Wiring between * Make note at what speed the fuse blows. Using the accompanying
when Blower is switched to Control Panel and Resistor wiring diagram, identify the corresponding wire color for the fan switch
a particular speed. speed position on which the fuse blew. Inspect this wire for any chafing
or other damage that would result in shorting the circuit. Repair as
required.
VACUUM TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE FOR
EVANS TEMPCON HEATER A/C SYSTEMS
1. Air Flow Comes from Defrost *Vacuum supply line to control *Ensure that black line of vacuum harness is pushed fully onto the
Louvers regardless of mode panel has fallen off of vacuum corresponding port of the vacuum reservoir.
selected reservoir.
*Manifold vacuum supply hose *Ensure that both ends of the supply hose are firmly attached to their
has fallen off at vacuum reservoir corresponding ports.
or at manifold port.
*Severe leakage in vacuum *Examine vacuum supply hose from manifold to vacuum ball and black supply
supply circuit. lead of vacuum harness from vacuum ball to control panel for cuts or pinching.
Repair or replace as required.
*Faulty control panel or vacuum *Having checked above causes and finding no problem: check for vacuum at the
harness. white, yellow, red, green, and blue vacuum leads of the harness while changing
through all operational modes. If no vacuum is detected, replace vacuum
mode switch and/or harness.
*Pinched Vacuum Lines *Inspect red, green, white, and yellow vacuum lines for pinching or kinking.
Repair/replace as required.
2. Air Flow is suddenly and *Leak in Vacuum Reservoir, *Measure vacuum at the small port on the reservoir with the engine running at idle.
momentarily diverted to vacuum hose from manifold Turn the engine off and take note of the time for vacuum loss to 10 in. of hg. If
defrost louvers while or vacuum reservoir. Check this time is shorter than 5 sec., inspect hose and reservoir for leaks. Repair /
driving. valve. Inadequate vacuum replace as required.
supply. .
.
required.
* Door/Vacuum Motor Linkage * Re-assemble linkage. Check for proper operation
has come apart
* Door/Vacuum Motor Linkage * Inspect linkage for bind points. If necessary increase
is binding. Clearances with small file. Check for proper operation.
* Faulty Control Panel * With engine running, select Floor, mix or defrost mode
On the control panel. Remove the yellow and white
Vacuum Leads from the Vacuum Motor. If face door
Closes and vacuum is present at the Green and White
leads, replace Control Panel Mode Switch.
4. Fresh Air/Recirc. Air Door * Recirc. & Fresh Air Door(s) * Inspect Door(s) for interference points with evaporator
does not operate. Air Flow Binding. Case, or any loose foam seals. Repair/replace as
modes operate correctly. Required.
* Pinched Vacuum Line * Inspect Blue Vacuum Line(s) for pinching or kinking.
Repair/replace as required.
* Faulty Vacuum Motor * With engine running, position the Rotary Mode Selector to
the "MAX A/C" setting. If vacuum is present at the Blue
Lead, replace Vacuum Motor.
5. Inability to change air flow * Defrost Door of Air Box is * Inspect door for adequate clearance with top and bottom of
to Defrost mode. Floor and binding. Air box or any loose foam seals. Repair/replace as
Face mode operate correctly. Required.
* Door/Vacuum Motor Linkage * Inspect linkage for bind points. If necessary, increase
is binding. Clearance with a small file. Check for proper operation.
* Faulty Control Panel * With engine running, select Defrost mode on the Control
Panel. Remove the Red and Green Vacuum Leads from
Vacuum Motor. If door closes on the floor collars of the
air box and there is vacuum present at the Red and
Green Leads, Replace Mode switch.
6. Inability to change air flow * Defrost/Floor Door binding. * Inspect Door for adequate clearance with top and bottom
to Floor mode. Defrost and of air box or for any loose foam seals. Repair/replace as
Face Mode operate correctly. Required.
* Pinched Vacuum Line(s) * Inspect Red and Green Vacuum Leads for pinching or
kinking. Repair/Replace as required.
VACUUM TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE (Cont’d)
* Door/Vacuum Motor Linkage * Inspect linkage for bind points is binding. If necessary,
increase clearances with a small file. Check for proper
Operation.
* Faulty Control Panel * With engine running, select the Floor mode, If vacuum is
Not present at the Red and Green Leads, replace Mode
Switch.
* Faculty Vacuum Motor * With the engine running, select the floor mode. If vacuum
is present at the Red and Green Leads, replace Vacuum
Motor.
7. Inability to obtain air flow * Face Door is Binding * Inspect Door for adequate clearance with top and bottom
from Face Louvers. Defrost of air box or for any loose foam seals. Repair/replace as
and Floor Modes Operate required.
* Pinched Vacuum Line(s) * Inspect Yellow and White Vacuum lines for pinching or
kinking. Repair/replace as required.
* Door/Vacuum Motor Linkage * Inspect linkage for bind points. If necessary, increase
is binding. Clearance with a small file. Check for proper operation.
* Faulty Control Panel * With engine running, select "MAX A/C" or "A/C" Mode. If
vacuum is not present at Yellow & White Vacuum Lines,
replace Mode Switch.
VACUUM TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE (Cont’d)
8. Inability to obtain Bi-Level Air * Refer to "Possible Causes" list * Refer to "Remedy" list for Problem #7. High probability
flow. Other modes operate list for Problem #7. Of reversed yellow and white vacuum leads on bi-level
Correctly. Motor.
9. Inability to obtain mix (Floor/ * Refer to "Possible Causes" list * Refer to "Remedy" list for Problem #5 and #6. High
Defrost) air flow. Other modes for Problem #5 and #6. Probability of reversed red and dark green vacuum leads
operate correctly. On mix motor.
AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
FOR EVANS TEMPCON HEATER – A/C SYSTEMS
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES REMEDY
*Condenser clogged with road *Examine fin region of the condenser for debris and bent fins. Clean and
debris or condenser fan inoperative. Straighten as required. Repair and/or replace the condenser fan components as
required.
*Incorrect refrigerant charge in *Install manifold gauge set onto high side and low side service ports and operate
system. If charge is excessively low A/C. Observe for low pressures. If low pressures are observed, leak check all A/C
or high, the compressor clutch will components as required. If excessive loss is suspected, check oil level in
not engage, or remain engaged. compressor, evacuate and recharge.
*Moisture or air present in system. *Discharge and recover refrigerant. Replace receiver-drier. Add 2 ounces of
oil (to replace old oil removed with the old receiver-drier), evacuate and
recharge.
1. Con’t. *Restriction in receiver-drier or *If low and high side readings are excessively low and/or the liquid line at the
liquid line resulting in a starved expansion valve is cool to the touch and showing signs of sweating or frosting,
evaporator. discharge and recover the refrigerant. Replace the receiver-drier, liquid lines or
any other defective parts. Add 2 ounces of oil (to replace oil removed
with the old receiver-drier), evacuate and recharge.
*Defective expansion valve restricting *Symptoms are the same as receiver-drier restriction. Discharge and recover
flow. refrigerant. Remove and replace expansion valve. Check oil level in the com-
pressor, evacuate and recharge.
*Defective, worn or leaking compressor. *Low side gauge reading too high and high side gauge reading too low.
Discharge and recover refrigerant. Remove and replace new or rebuilt
compressor and replace receiver-drier. Add 2 ounces of oil (to replace oil
removed with the old receiver-drier), evacuate and recharge.
2. Inadequate cooling during *Excessive moisture in system *Discharge and recover refrigerant. Replace receiver-drier, check oil level in
hot part of the day. freezing in expansion valve and compressor, evacuate and recharge.
restricting refrigerant flow. .
3. Gradual loss over time of *Defective thermostat, causing *Examine capillary tube of thermostat to ensure that it is inserted into the
cooling and air flow during continuous operation of the compressor evaporator fins. If the core still freezes and the compressor clutch doesn’t
A/C operation. thereby freezing condensation within cycle off, replace the thermostat.
the evaporator core.
1. Inadequate or no heat *Engine cooling system is low *Check engine coolant level per chassis manufacturer’s
(discharge air only slightly on coolant recommendation. Add coolants as required.
warm or neutral)
*Water valve stuck closed *Cable operated valve: Examine coolant valve cable
under the hood and at the control panel behind the dash
to ensure that the actuator cable is correctly installed at
both locations. Operate the valve by rotating the
*For Electric valves see: temperature control knob on the control panel back and
ELECTRONIC COOLANT VALVE forth and observe crank rotation at the valve. With the
OR EVANS NEW ELECTRONIC VALVE engine running at normal operating temperature, position
control panel knob to full heat. Hoses on both sides of
valve should be hot to the touch. If not, replace coolant
valve
*Pinched heater hose or other *Examine heater hoses from engine cooling system to the
system flow restriction heater core for pinches and kinks. Repair or replace as
required. Visually examine heater core for dented tubes.
Check the core for free flow by circulating an outside
water source through it. Replace heater core if a restriction is
observed
*Engine running cold. Engine *Check engine coolant temperature specifications according
thermostat stuck open to chassis manufacturer’s recommendations. Repair if
required.
DEFROSTER TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
FOR EVANS TEMPCON HEATER - A/C SYSTEMS
* Air Distribution Box not * Refer to Vacuum Trouble shooting guide for diagnosis
operating properly. And recommended repair.
COOLANT IN-LINE FILTER KIT
INSTALLATION AND SERVICING INSTRUCTIONS
1. INSTALLATION:
Determine which hose attached to the valve is the supply hose from the engine. The supply hose is connected to the valve on the opposite
side of the valve from the wire harness connector (see illustration below).
Place a clamping device on the inlet side of the reducer fitting that connects the 5/8" supply hose to the 3/4" hose on the inlet side of the valve
(clamp on 5/8" hose). Place a second clamping device between the coolant valve and base unit (clamp 3/4" hose on outlet side of valve).
Remove the reducer fitting, capturing the coolant in a pan. Remove the short section of 3/4" hose attached to the inlet side of the valve.
CAUTION: The engine should be cold and the vehicle turned off before attempting to remove the reducer fitting. Opening coolant
lines on systems that are hot can result in burns and/or serious injury due to extremely hot coolant escaping under pressure.
Install the 4" section of 3/4" hose (supplied) on the inlet side of the valve. The In-Line Filter Assembly is supplied with a 5/8" hose fitting on the
inlet side of the assembly and a 3/4" hose fitting on the outlet side. Place two (2) clamps over the new section of 3/4" hose and insert the In-
Line
Filter Assembly into the coolant line with the 3/4" fitting into the 3/4" hose (the large fitting on the filter should be closest to the valve) as shown
above. Place one (1) clamp over the end of the 5/8" supply line hose, then connect it to the 5/8" fitting on the filter assembly. Tighten the
clamps
on the valve and the In-Line Filter Assembly (clamps are not shown in the drawing).
The filter assembly and coolant valve should be supported in the heater compartment and not allowed to "float" on the coolant lines. Tie-wraps
or strap type of clamps can be placed around the body of the filter assembly and attached to the fire wall to support the filter. The coolant valve
has mounting holes in it that allow it to be bolted to a bracket or clamped in place.
NOTE: THE VALVE AND FILTER ASSEMBLY MUST BE INSTALLED IN A HORIZONTAL PLANE AS SHOWN IN THE DRAWING.
2. FILTER SERVICING:
CAUTION: The engine should be cold and the vehicle turned off before attempting to remove and service the filter assembly.
Opening coolant lines on systems that are hot can result in burns and/or serious injury due to extremely hot coolant escaping
under pressure.
Should the ability of your HVAC system to produce heat deteriorate, it may be necessary to check the In-line Filter for debris. This is
done by placing a clamping device on both sides of the filter assembly to block the loss of coolant and then removing the filter assembly
from the coolant lines. Be prepared to capture any coolant in a clean container.
The filter assembly can now be flushed to remove any debris by pouring water through the large (3/4”) port and allowing it to drain out the
Smaller (5/8”) port. The water used to flush the filter should be captured and examined for debris. Before reinstalling the filter assembly,
A small amount of coolant should be flushed out of the inlet line to clear it of any debris. Be sure all connections are secure and no leaks
Are evident.
NOTE: Should an excessive amount of debris be evident in the filter, or if the filter is repeatedly blocked by debris, it is strongly
Recommended that the entire coolant system be drained, flushed thoroughly, and refilled with new coolant, per the vehicle manufacturer’s
Specifications.