Adjusting The Pardini SP Trigger1

Author: Unknown
Verified: Peter Hobson
ADJUSTING THE PARDINI SP/HP TRIGGER

This pistol is designed to have a two stage pull and most shooters who
take the time to get acquainted with a two stage system end up liking
it and doing better than with the American "High Standard/Model 41 "
trigger. To use a two stage pull, you pull through or "take up" the
longer "1st stage" quickly to where you feel the sudden increase in
resistance which is the onset of the "2nd stage" which is short and
crisp. As the 2nd stage is "squeezed" through more slowly, the gun
fires. The take up of the 1st stage is automatic on recoil during timed
and rapid fire and becomes hardly noticeable in a very short time.
OK. Lets take the Owners manual in hand and open it up to the middle
of the book where it shows the trigger mechanism and the instructions
on adjustment. As we will be doing lots of "dry-firing" be sure the dry
fire plug is in the chamber of the pistol on the SP (not really necessary
for the HP.) We need to start with screw "CP" which accessible only
after taking the grip from the gun.
The SP trigger Assembly
1. Back out screw "CP" counterclockwise about 2 turns.
2. Back out strews "PG" and "TS" counterclockwise about 2 turns. At

this point you should have play between the trigger bar/dis-connector
and the sear and you should have plenty of sear engagement with the
hammer. You may or may not have two stages to the trigger pull.
3. Back out "PS" counterclockwise about 2 turns. Back out "CS" a

couple of turns. Now you should have a long continuous creepy pull
with lots of "free-play" or take-up. At this point, while the trigger pull
is like that of a double action revolver, you will at least have a "safe"
gun. Now lets refine:
4. Turn "CS" in clockwise until you feel the "2nd stage" appear about
at the end of the pull. (You will have contacted the spring loaded ball
bearing inside "CS". The load on this ban is determined by "PS".) You
can fine tune the length of this "2nd stage" by tiny adjustments in
"CS" until you get the kind of feel you like. Most shooters want this to
be "crisp" or in other words a short 2nd stage (the part you squeeze
off at the end of the pull).
5. Now there are two parts to the "front" part of the pull. or "1st
stage" . The initial part is the taking up of the gap between the trigger
bar and the ear of the sear - this is usually called the "free play" The
other part is the real "1st stage" and in this pistol design you are
sliding the sear almost all the way out of the hammer notch during this
stage. YOU MUST HAVE SOME OF THIS "1st STAGE"!! The most
common error in trying to customize the feel of the trigger on this gun
is to "dial out" all the 1st stage and make the trigger like a Model 41.
This is what makes the gun "double" and not hold. etc. We control this
amount of sear engagement and thus the "1st stage" with screw "CP".
So, now:
6. Turn in screw "CP" so you have some definite 1st stage travel (after
the free play take-up). Leave as much of this travel in as you can
tolerate. At the end of this 1st stage travel and before the hammer
falls you will contact the spring loaded ball bearing and be at the 2nd
stage which is short and crisp. If not, go back to 3 and 4 and play
around until you do.
7. Now turn in screw "PG" to adjust the free play or take-up. Make
sure that the trigger bar will go up into position after the gun is cycled
and the trigger released and then leave just a tiny bit more for
reliability.
8. Now we are ready to adjust the weight of the total pull. This is to be
2 lbs. for NRA rules and 1000 grams for UIT rules (2 l/4Ibs). The
weight of the 1st stage is controlled by the sear spring (which is
essentially non adjustable) and by screw "PP". The weight of the 2nd
stage is controlled by screw "PS" which is inside "CS". The total weight
is usually divided up equally between the 1st stage and the 2nd stage.
This makes the pull "self-calibrating". When you are in a match, the
arousal level often creates deceptive sensory input and one day the
trigger will feel very heavy and another day very light. With this kind
of set-up at least you know that when you take up the 1st stage you
have applied 1/2 the required pressure. This can be very comforting in
a major match where you don't want to be too conservative on the
trigger and lose time and yet also don't want to "shoot a snake in the
nose" while at the 45 degree ready position. So, turn the appropriate
screws the appropriate amount until you get the balance of weights on
1st and 2nd stage you prefer.
9. Finally, lets adjust the over-travel of the trigger after the hammer
falls. This is done with screw "TS". Turn it in until you have the amount
of over-travel you prefer (you have to leave some, you know!)

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Author: Unknown

Verified: Peter Hobson

ADJUSTING THE PARDINI SP/HP TRIGGER

The SP trigger Assembly

1. Back out screw "CP" counterclockwise about 2 turns.

2. Back out strews "PG" and "TS" counterclockwise about 2 turns. At

3. Back out "PS" counterclockwise about 2 turns. Back out "CS" a

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