브리오쉬 스웨터 썬데이 스웨터
브리오쉬 스웨터 썬데이 스웨터
브리오쉬 스웨터 썬데이 스웨터
v=mxxVqd4B1b8&t=84s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElqhY5VmSHA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tiey1ShG420
참조
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HFCtYhrv-I&t=198s
썬데이 스웨터
A warm sweater in half brioche is your best friend on a cold day. Hugs are nice, but
sweaters last longer.
Novita Kesäextra 2020 (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 11
Skill level Intermediate
Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)
Yarn demand
Novita Nordic Wool
(060) Sand 400(450)500(550)600(650) g
Designer
Sari Nordlund
Shoulders
Using the larger needles cast on 7 sts and work half brioche flat for 11(13)14(16)17(19)
cm. Finish with a WS row. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold on e.g. a piece of scrap
yarn.
Knit the other shoulder in the same manner.
Back
Pick up sts from the RS of the shoulder piece, starting at the end with the held sts. Use the
larger circular needle (80 cm) and pick up and knit 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts along the
shoulder. Cast on 29 sts for the neckline and pick up and knit another 18(21)22(25)27(30)
sts from the other shoulder, starting at the cast-on edge. 65(71)73(79)83(89) sts on the
needles. The cast-on edges of the shoulder pieces are in the middle and the held sts at the
outer edges.
Work half brioche flat until the piece measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm from the bottom
edge of the shoulder pieces. Finish with a WS row.
On the next row work increases for the armholes at both edges: (RS) p1, sl1yo, p1, kyok (=
k1, yo, k1 into the same st), work half brioche to last 4 sts, kyok, p1, sl1yo, p1 =
69(75)77(83)87(93) sts.
Work 5 rows in half brioche and then repeat the increases as established =
73(79)81(87)91(97) sts.
Work half brioche flat until the piece measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm from the bottom
edge of the shoulder pieces. Finish with a WS row. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold on
e.g. a piece of scrap yarn.
Fronts
Using the larger circular needle (80 cm) pick up and knit 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts from the
RS of the right shoulder, turn work and work row 1 of the brioche pattern.
Work half brioche flat and begin increases at the neckline edge: work RS row to last 4 sts,
kyok, p1, sl1yo, p1 = 20(23)24(27)29(32) sts.
Repeat the increases as established on every 8th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times, on every
10th row 4(6)4(2)2(0) times and every 12th row 0(0)2(4)4(6) times = 32(35)36(39)41(44)
sts.
Note: When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm and you have last worked a WS
row, work the armhole increases as on the back piece = 36(39)40(43)45(48) sts.
When the piece measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm from the bottom edge of the shoulder
piece and you have last worked a WS row, break the yarn and leave the sts on hold.
Left front: mirror the right front. Finish on a WS row and break yarn.
Body
Work half brioche in the round starting with round 2: work the 73(79)81(87)91(97) back
sts, cast on 3(3)7(7)9(9) sts for the armhole, work the 36(39)40(43)45(48) right front sts,
cast on 1 st (front midpoint), work the 36(39)40(43)45(48) left front sts, cast on
3(3)7(7)9(9) sts for the other armhole = 152(164)176(188)200(212) sts.
Work brioche in the round until the piece measures 38,5(39,5)40,5(41,5)43,5(44,5) cm
from the armhole.
Switch to the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.
Loosely bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Use the larger double-pointed needles, or the circular needle if you're using the Magic
Loop technique, to pick up sts from around the armhole. Starting at the bottom edge, pick
up and knit 26(28)29(31)31(32) sts from the RS of one of the pieces, work half brioche
with the 7 shoulder sts (*p1, sl1yo*, repeat *-* 2 more times, p1), pick up and knit
27(29)30(32)32(33) sts from the other piece = 60(64)66(70)70(72) sts.
Work half brioche in the round as instructed, starting with round 2.
When the sleeve measures approx. 2,5 cm and you have last worked round 1, decrease 2
sts on both sides of the beginning of round: p1, knit 3 sts and their yos together (2 sts
decreased), work brioche to last 5 sts, knit 3 sts and their yos together through the back
loop (2 sts decreased), work the last 2 sts in half brioche. 4 sts decreased,
56(60)62(66)66(68) sts on the needles.
Repeat the decreases as established every 8(8)8(6,5)6,5(6,5) cm (on round 2 in the pattern)
4(4)4(5)5(5) more times = 40(44)46(46)46(48) sts.
When the inner sleeve measures approx. 36(37)38(39)39(40) cm from the underarm and
you have last worked round 2, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round
for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Border: Starting at one of the shoulder seams and using the smaller needles pick up and
knit sts from the neckline edge for 104(106)110(112)112(116) sts in total. Work ribbing in
the round, making sure the middle front st is a knit st. On every other round decrease 1 st
on both sides of the middle front st: slip the middle st and the previous st as if to k2tog, k1,
pass the slipped sts over.
When the border measures 2 cm, bind off in pattern.
Steam and shape.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 94(102)110(118)126(134) cm / 37(40¼)43¼(46½)49½(52¾)
in (the sweater is loose-fitting)
length 60(62)64(66)68(70) cm / 23½(24½)25¼(26)26¾(27½) in
inner sleeve length 41(42)43(44)44(45) cm / 16¼(16½)17(17¼)17¼(17¾) in
Shoulders
Using the larger needles cast on 7 sts and work half brioche flat for 11(13)14(16)17(19)
cm. Finish with a WS row. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold on e.g. a piece of scrap
yarn.
Knit the other shoulder in the same manner.
Back
Pick up sts from the RS of the shoulder piece, starting at the end with the held sts. Use the
larger circular needle (80 cm) and pick up and knit 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts along the
shoulder. Cast on 29 sts for the neckline and pick up and knit another 18(21)22(25)27(30)
sts from the other shoulder, starting at the cast-on edge. 65(71)73(79)83(89) sts on the
needles. The cast-on edges of the shoulder pieces are in the middle and the held sts at the
outer edges.
Work half brioche flat until the piece measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm from the bottom
edge of the shoulder pieces. Finish with a WS row.
On the next row work increases for the armholes at both edges: (RS) p1, sl1yo, p1, kyok (=
k1, yo, k1 into the same st), work half brioche to last 4 sts, kyok, p1, sl1yo, p1 =
69(75)77(83)87(93) sts.
Work 5 rows in half brioche and then repeat the increases as established =
73(79)81(87)91(97) sts.
Work half brioche flat until the piece measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm from the bottom
edge of the shoulder pieces. Finish with a WS row. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold on
e.g. a piece of scrap yarn.
Fronts
Using the larger circular needle (80 cm) pick up and knit 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts from the
RS of the right shoulder, turn work and work row 1 of the brioche pattern.
Work half brioche flat and begin increases at the neckline edge: work RS row to last 4 sts,
kyok, p1, sl1yo, p1 = 20(23)24(27)29(32) sts.
Repeat the increases as established on every 8th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times, on every
10th row 4(6)4(2)2(0) times and every 12th row 0(0)2(4)4(6) times = 32(35)36(39)41(44)
sts.
Note: When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm and you have last worked a WS
row, work the armhole increases as on the back piece = 36(39)40(43)45(48) sts.
When the piece measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm from the bottom edge of the shoulder
piece and you have last worked a WS row, break the yarn and leave the sts on hold.
Left front: mirror the right front. Finish on a WS row and break yarn.
Body
Work half brioche in the round starting with round 2: work the 73(79)81(87)91(97) back
sts, cast on 3(3)7(7)9(9) sts for the armhole, work the 36(39)40(43)45(48) right front sts,
cast on 1 st (front midpoint), work the 36(39)40(43)45(48) left front sts, cast on
3(3)7(7)9(9) sts for the other armhole = 152(164)176(188)200(212) sts.
Work brioche in the round until the piece measures 38,5(39,5)40,5(41,5)43,5(44,5) cm
from the armhole.
Switch to the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.
Loosely bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Use the larger double-pointed needles, or the circular needle if you're using the Magic
Loop technique, to pick up sts from around the armhole. Starting at the bottom edge, pick
up and knit 26(28)29(31)31(32) sts from the RS of one of the pieces, work half brioche
with the 7 shoulder sts (*p1, sl1yo*, repeat *-* 2 more times, p1), pick up and knit
27(29)30(32)32(33) sts from the other piece = 60(64)66(70)70(72) sts.
Work half brioche in the round as instructed, starting with round 2.
When the sleeve measures approx. 2,5 cm and you have last worked round 1, decrease 2
sts on both sides of the beginning of round: p1, knit 3 sts and their yos together (2 sts
decreased), work brioche to last 5 sts, knit 3 sts and their yos together through the back
loop (2 sts decreased), work the last 2 sts in half brioche. 4 sts decreased,
56(60)62(66)66(68) sts on the needles.
Repeat the decreases as established every 8(8)8(6,5)6,5(6,5) cm (on round 2 in the pattern)
4(4)4(5)5(5) more times = 40(44)46(46)46(48) sts.
When the inner sleeve measures approx. 36(37)38(39)39(40) cm from the underarm and
you have last worked round 2, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round
for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Border: Starting at one of the shoulder seams and using the smaller needles pick up and
knit sts from the neckline edge for 104(106)110(112)112(116) sts in total. Work ribbing in
the round, making sure the middle front st is a knit st. On every other round decrease 1 st
on both sides of the middle front st: slip the middle st and the previous st as if to k2tog, k1,
pass the slipped sts over.
When the border measures 2 cm, bind off in pattern.
Steam and shape.
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and
purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary
school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll
also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round.
Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch.
Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern.
Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting
gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as
scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps
some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns
repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and
relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace
stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max.
3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns
using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are
detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also
suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks
with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset
thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more
than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with,
even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level,
e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or
entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more
advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the
previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be
included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same
time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may
require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns
include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill
level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the
same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round.
Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift
and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong
side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but
requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and
written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often
feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what
determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the
risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is
important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the
correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you
intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be
able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then
steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that
stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If
needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or
brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size.
If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to
smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting
is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to
determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the
pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
반 브리오슈의 따뜻한 스웨터는 추운 날 가장 친한 친구입니다. 포옹은 좋지만
스웨터는 더 오래갑니다.
Magazine 11 의 패턴 아니오
스킬 레벨 중급
크기
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)
원사 수요
노비타 노르딕 울
(060) 모래 400(450)500(550)600(650) g
바늘 및 기타 용품
;4½ mm 및 5 mm 소매용 양날 바늘
디자이너
사리 노르들룬드
어깨
프론트
더 큰 원형 바늘(80cm)을 사용하여 오른쪽 어깨의 RS 에서 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts
를 잡고 편직하여 브리오슈 패턴의 작업 및 작업 행 1 을 돌립니다.
신체
소매
마무리 손질
증기와 모양.
완성된 치수
몸 둘레 94(102)110(118)126(134) cm / 37(40¼)43¼(46½)49½(52½) in (
스웨터는 헐렁한 것)
길이 60(62)64(66)68(70) cm / 23½(24½)25¼(26)26¾(27½) in
내부 소매 길이 41(42)43(44)44(45) cm / 16¼(16½)17(17¼)17¼(17¼) in
스티치 패턴 및 게이지
스티치 패턴
- 반 브리오슈: 1 행: (WS) *k1, p1*, 1 번째가 남을 때까지 *-* 반복, k1. 행 2: (RS)
*p1, sl1yo*, 첫 번째 p1 이 남을 때까지 *-*를 반복합니다. 행 3: (WS) *k1, yo 와
미끄러진 st*를 함께 도려내고 첫 번째 k1 이 남을 때까지 *-*를 반복합니다. 2-3
행을 계속 반복하십시오.
어깨
프론트
신체
소매
패턴으로 묶습니다.
마무리 손질
증기와 모양.
초보자
기술
패턴
기술
패턴
중급
기술
패턴
고급의
기술
패턴
게이지 및 스와칭
조정 게이지