Leseprobe Herrenschuhe GB Hfullmann 978 3 8480 0368 6
Leseprobe Herrenschuhe GB Hfullmann 978 3 8480 0368 6
Leseprobe Herrenschuhe GB Hfullmann 978 3 8480 0368 6
Handmade
SHOES FOR MEN
18 Size
Width Numbering
Differences of bone structure and musculature can mean and its associated width number to be used to calculate the
that feet of the same length have very different girth width of the metatarsals, the instep, the heel, and the
(referred to here as width) measurements. It is therefore ankle. To obtain the width of the metatarsals, for example,
most expedient for both the shoemaker and the lastmaker the shoe size is added to the width number and the result
to measure and tabulate these various widths. This is the halved: shoe size 42, average width 6, width of metatarsals
background to the width-numbering system, in which 5 (E) 24. (This is one of the simpler formulas; in view of the
denotes the narrowest foot, 6 (F) the average, 7 (G) wide, complexity of the others we shall not consider them here.)
and 8 (H) very wide. These formulas have been developed over many years,
Since the ratios between the measurements of an and are tried and tested. A customer can be confident that
average foot are constant, particular circumferential his shoemaker will use them accurately in order to assess
measurements are associated with particular lengths. the size of shoe needed for him.
Formulas exist enabling the shoe size (denoting length)
width of metatarsals in cm
Size A B C D E F G H I
* (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9)
5 19.50 20.00 20.50 21.00 21.50 22.00 22.50 23.00 23.50 increase of
6 20.10 20.60 21.10 21.60 22.10 22.60 23.10 23.60 24.10 0.5 cm per
7 20.65 21.15 21.65 22.15 22.65 23.15 23.65 24.15 24.65 width
8 21.20 21.70 22.20 22.70 23.20 23.70 24.20 24.70 25.20 number
9 21.70 22.20 22.70 23.20 23.70 24.20 24.70 25.20 25.70
10 22.25 22.75 23.25 23.75 24.25 24.75 25.25 25.75 26.25
11 22.75 23.25 23.75 24.25 24.75 25.25 25.75 26.25 26.75
12 23.30 23.80 24.30 24.80 25.30 25.80 26.30 26.80 27.30
French size metatarsal width instep width heel width ankle width
size in cm
39 26 22.5 23.3 32 22
40 26.7 23 24 32.7 22.5
41 27.3 23.5 24.5 33.3 23
42 28 24 25 34 23.5
43 28.7 24.5 25.5 34.7 24
44 29.3 25 26 35.3 24.5
45 30 25.5 26.5 36 25
With a tape measure and this table anybody with average-size feet and width number 6 (F) can determine his exact shoe size. If the various
measurements agree exactly or deviate by no more than an eighth of an inch [0.2–0.3 cm], he will have no difficulty in finding perfectly comfortable
ready-made shoes. Anybody finding more significant discrepancies is recommended to have his shoes custom made; this is the only way to obtain a pair
that will fit him properly.
28 Size
Basic Types of Classic
Men's Shoes
The basic types of men's shoes today regarded as classics (brogueing), which have been a feature of fashionable
were developed as the result of competition between the men's shoes since the end of the nineteenth century.
great European shoemakers during the years 1880-1889. There are less than a dozen basic classic shoe styles,
The workshops of London, Paris, Munich, Vienna, and but they offer limitless possibilities for variation when
Budapest achieved fame around the world, thanks to designing individual models. When deciding on the basic
their skillfulness and the individuality of their shoes. structure of the shoe, the designer will always draw on
A shoe is categorized primarily by the style of its the traditional range of shoes. His creativity is allowed
construction as belonging to one of a few main groups. greater freedom when it comes to the design of the upper.
Shoe styles are first of all defined by the fastenings used How should the lines run? How will the different parts
as laced shoes (closed or open), buckle shoes, or slippers. combine together harmoniously? Which types of
On a closed lace-up shoe, such as the Oxford, the quarters decoration (brogueing, stitching, gimped edges, inlaid
are sewn under the vamp and fasten over the tongue, panels), colors, and textures are suitable, and what
which is sewn onto the vamp. In the case of an open- combinations are possible?
lacing shoe, such as the Derby, the quarters lie over the While shoemakers around the world are in agreement
vamp, which is made of the same piece of leather as the on the nomenclature of the basic types of shoe, the
tongue. Another characteristic is the number of innumerable variations on these styles produced by the
components making up the shoe upper. The upper of the different workshops have individual names of their own.
simplest shoe, the slipper, consists of a single piece of A selection of the styles that have been developed by
leather. Styles like the Budapest consist of a vamp, famous workshops is given on pages 60-85.
quarters, and an outer counter. In addition, the vamp can
be divided by a straight, or winged, toe cap, and various
types of apron. The third way of identifying shoes is the
presence, or absence, of patterns of punched perforations
Vamp Collar
Stitching
Decorative pattern
Counter
Counter
Quarter
Quarter Brogueing
Facing Facing
Gimped edge
Vamp Wingtip Stitching
Straight toe cap
It is the leather alone that makes a summer shoe of this Oxford, with its classic lines. The Bálint workshop in Vienna ordered the leather to be finished
particularly soft and not dyed after tanning, but left with its natural color.
Summer Shoes
As a matter of principle, all the classic shoe styles can be
turned into air-permeable summer shoes if the shoemaker
selects a thin leather or inserts woven leather at certain
points in the upper. Summer shoes manufactured
according to the strict rules of classic shoemaking are
therefore by no means only intended for one season. In
a European climate they will last much longer than a
machine-worked pair, which can only be worn for a few
months in many cases.
Surprisingly enough, summer shoes are more often
made in dark colors than light ones. Someone wearing
black, or dark-blue, Derbys with a woven vamp at a
wedding will not be bothered by the heat. A pair of
Derbys with large perforations or sandals would certainly
be quite inappropriate for such an occasion, though both
offer comfort on hot summer days and are ideal for
The Russian composer Igor Stravinsky (here shown in Venice in 1951) loved
informal parties in the open air. improvisation, but not when it came to shoes. In this area he was a stickler
for tradition.
70 Shoe Styles
The Design
At one time the designer would first make a detailed,
realistic drawing, which usually showed the shoe from
several different angles. Today he is increasingly more
likely to draw the parts of the shoe upper and their
decoration directly onto the last. This creates a design in
three dimensions, which is much more practical for
working purposes.
This method has other advantages. It is easier to check
that the decorations and proportions – of the toe cap,
quarters, and counter, for example – are correct. If the
designer is not happy with what he has drawn, he can
always rub out a line that does not fit, or even the entire
design, and begin again. At this early stage in the design
process, it is usual for a new design to be shown to
Semi-Brogue Derby
everyone working in a workshop.
74 Shoe Styles
inside counter The diagram illustrates the
most important
components in the
construction of a welted
single-soled shoe.
outside counter
upper
lining
welt
shank spring
insole
rand
cork filling
outsole
insole
insole
welt
welt
cork filling
cork filling
midsole
outsole
outsole seam outsole seam
outsole feather welt seam feather welt seam
Cross-section of single-soled welted shoe. The first seam joins upper, welt, Cross-section of double-soled welted shoe. The second seam joins welt,
and insole; the second seam joins the welt to the outsole. midsole and outsole.
206 Glossary
usual. A strong, smooth leather is suitable for double-stitched shoes, or one
with a rough surface; combinations of different colors are also frequent. G
Gimping
Variants covering the ankles are very popular, as are boots.
Trimming and simultaneously decorating the edges of leather pieces. The
shoemaker does this with a gimping machine in which steel tools with
E various patterns and designs can be fitted.
Eyelets Girths
Holes one-eighth to one-twelfth of an inch [2–3 mm] across at intervals of Characteristic measurements for the individual foot. The girth is measured
two-fifths to three-fifths of an inch [1–1.5 cm] through which the shoe laces at the metatarsals, the instep, the heel, and the ankle.
are threaded. Classic gentlemen’s shoes normally have five pairs of eyelets. Golfing shoes
Sports shoes that are often handmade. The top sole is fitted with nine to
F eleven spikes for increased stability on grass-covered ground.
Filling Gouge
Substance used to fill the gap in a welt-stitched shoe, with a shock-absorbing Iron tool used to form the feather in the insole.
and stabilizing effect on the sole when walking. Grain
Fine copying The upper layer of the leather is the grain layer. It has hair shafts and the
1. Lastmaking method in which the measurements of the last forme are excretory ducts of the sebaceous and sweat glands running through it; these
precisely transferred to the new last by machine. give it its “grain.” Every leather possesses its own characteristic grain.
2. Lastmaking method in which a last that has been corrected by the addition
method functions as a last forme.
Finishing
H
Half-Brogue
The final process undergone by the shoe once its construction is complete, See Semi-Brogue.
consisting of washing, creaming, and polishing the upper; and inking, Hand-stitched shoe
heelballing, and polishing the edges of the sole and the heel. The edge of the A shoe made by the traditional method. The two most important types of
sole is pressed with the edge iron and the edges of the heel smoothed with hand-stitched shoe are the welt-stitched and double-stitched variants.
the dummy iron, and both are then individually patterned with the fancy Heel
wheels. The top piece and sole are creamed or inked. Structure consisting of a number of leather lifts and acting as a support
Finishing wax while walking. Four to six lifts are needed for the heel of a gentleman’s shoe.
Type of wax, of which the shoemaker applies a thin coat to the upper surfaces Two inches [5 cm] is the ideal height.
of the shoe after inking. It is then pressed into the leather together with the Heel construction
ink using a warm iron. Several leather lifts, a top piece, and a quarter rubber are assembled to form
Foot arch the heel.
The lengthwise and transverse arch of the foot. It bears the entire body weight Heel cup
when standing and walking. It acts as a shock absorber, reducing the impact A piece of leather (part of the upper) on the outside of the back of the shoe
on the head and spinal column of walking. covering the seam joining the quarters. It may be a narrow strip or a long,
Foot documentation vertical piece of leather in line with the heel.
All the important information about the feet and their owner established in Heel edge
the measurement-taking process: the measurement record, foot imprint, The outer surface of the heel. Usually it is black, but sometimes it is colored
draft drawings, and marked-up lasts. to match the upper leather. If it is not colored, the individual lifts are readily
Foot elevation discernible.
The side and rear elevation of the foot transferred onto paper. Heel lifts
Foot imprint Two to four pieces of leather cut to the shape of the heel, which they jointly
An imprint of the foot produced by the Ped-a-graph. It gives an exact picture form.
of the arch of the foot, the intersection points of the arch curves, and the Heel section
position of the toes. The back of the shoe.
Foot outline
The shoemaker makes an outline of the foot with a vertically held pencil on
a sheet of paper, from which the length and width of the shoes are then I
Inner sock
measured.
Leather lining in direct contact with the foot. The customer can specify that
Full-brogue
it should cover the whole of the insole, three-quarters of it, or only a quarter
A type of shoe decorated with perforated patterns, with winged toe caps and
(under the heel).
rows of perforations.
Insole
The foundation of the shoe: a piece of leather between one-tenth and one-
seventh of an inch [2.5–3.5 mm] thick, depending on the robustness of the
shoe, on which the shoe is built. The initial stage is to nail the insole to the
last. A feather is then formed with the gouge.
Glossary 207
© h.f.ullmann publishing GmbH
Project Management: Vince Books
Consultancy: László Szõcs
Illustrations: György Olajos
Project Coordination and Editing: Claudia Hammer and Kirsten E. Lehmann
Editor of the original edition: Susanne Kolb
Layout: Gerd Türke, Malzkorn, Cologne
Picture Editor: Monika Bergmann
ISBN 978-3-8480-0369-3
Translation from German: Anthea Bell, Terry Moran and Martin Pearce
in association with First Edition Translations Ltd., Cambridge, UK
Editing: Jenny Knight in association with First Edition Translations Ltd.
Typesetting: The Write Idea in association First Edition Translations Ltd.
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ISBN 978-3-8480-0368-6
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