 

TRIM

SEWING PROCEDURES 1B. Hem 4. Pin front to back, right sides together, at

KWIK DESIGNED BY:

KERSTIN MARTENSSON
Pattern 3554
Sizes: XS-S-M-L-XL
Use an all purpose thread. Use normal or tighter pressure on the presser foot. Use a
ball-point sewing machine
needle size 10/70, 11/75 or 12/80 and fine pins.
 
 3554


On neckline
 and


armholes of cups and
top edge of back, fold 1/4" (6 mm) hems
side seams. Stitch. 12



•SEW to wrong side and stitch close toedges

 
To make a seam. Pin two pieces of fabric, right sides and raw edges 10together. As you   TRIM
of hems, using a narrow zigzag stitch.
 Or,  
® 2 8 7 begin to sew, hold the ends of the bobbin and the top thread in back of the presser foot, 
 the needle plate.

stitch with a blind hem stitch to make a

® this will prevent the soft fabric from pulling down into the opening in
4
Hold fabric firmly in front and back of the presser foot when sewing lengthwise seams to  scalloped edge; when 11stitching, be sure 8
A B 9   
prevent puckering.  the needle stitches off the fabric edge when 


7
the zigzag is made (see illustration).

 
3554 Pieces
Standard sewing machine. Sew the seams with a narrow zigzag 
 

 
1 3 
 5 width and a shorter than medium stitch length and  overcast seam allow- 
 
 ances together, using
 a slightly wider than medium zigzag width and  
 
 medium stitch length, or a three-step
 zigzag stitch. If only a straight stitch
6     
6  
machine is available, sew the seams with a medium stitch length and 
   
stretch the fabric as you sew. If desired, stitch seam allowance together   
 close to raw edges. 
1. Slip Front View A and B    

2. Slip Cups View A and B   
Serger (overlock) machine. Sew the seams and finish the raw edges   
3. Slip Back View A and B 1 4 5 3554 p.1
4. Slip Shoulder strap View A and B of facings, hems and single layers of fabric. Guide fabric, being sure that 2 
 3 

 
5. Slip Front Ruffle View B only the 1 ⁄4" (6 mm) seam allowance is used. 
   lace to bottom edge of slip,
5. Sew 
 
3 6. Slip Back Ruffle View B 
using same procedure as in 1A. At one
7. Panties Front View B   
Easing and gathering one or two rows of machine stitching on the
8. Panties
4 Back View B 1  
seam allowances with a longer stitch length and looser thread tension.
TRIM  side seam, overlap lace 
and stitch lace
9. Panties Crotch Lining View B
together,
 following design on lace. Trim
2
Stitch lengths vary from 6 to 10 stitches per inch (3 - 5 per cm), use a  excess lace close to stitches on the right
   15
1 shorter stitchlength for sheer or lightweight fabric and
 a longer length and wrong side. 16
   
For View A, use pattern pieces 1 through 4. for medium to heavyweight fabrics.    
For View B, use pattern pieces 1 through 9. 
SEAM ALLOWANCES – 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowances are included for all   
TRIM 
HOW TO USE KWIK-SEW MULTI-SIZE PATTERN  seams, unless otherwise specified in the followinginstructions. 
Pattern includes five sizes and the lines are color coded for the different sizes. Pattern is  
 12

made to fit specific body measurements with ease allowed for comfort and style. To select 
PRESSING   81 9 2
pattern size, compare your body measurements to those listed on the back of the pattern Steam press each seam as 
sewn. Press seams 
 to one side, unless otherwise 3554
specified in
3
envelope and choose the size that is closest to your measurements. 8
Select the pattern the following instructions. Clip seam allowances where necessary so10 7
seams are

flat. 
  
6
pieces for the view you have chosen. Press pattern5 pieces with
2 4a dry iron and cut out the 7  
8 
paper pattern pieces, following the view and the color coding for the size you have chosen.2    TRIM
Check for correct length and make any necessary adjustments on
4
 FABRIC ILLUSTRATION
 CODE Right Side Wrong Side 11 
2 pattern pieces before
9  15  17
placing them on fabric for cutting.  Right Side Wrong Side of Lining of Lining  16
1 
 7 6 

CUTTING Preshrink fabric if necessary. Fold fabric double, 1right sides together, unless 3554    
Pieces
    
 
3   
otherwise indicated in the layouts. Place pattern pieces on wrong side of fabric, following 5  
     
the layout for size, view and fabric width. If placing pattern pieces on single layer of fabric, 
    
place fabric right side up. Any adjustments made on the  pattern can change  the position   
Stitch across the mitered 
 corners and trim
1 6
of the pattern pieces, in this case, use the layout as a guide. Layouts are shown for fabric VIEW A 2 3 side. 3554
excess lace on wrong 4 5 3554 p.1


with nap, one-way design or shading, place all patterns pieces with the arrow on top of the 1/4" (6 mm) seam

allowances included.
3
8 of grain7 line
grain line in the same direction. Follow arrows for correct2 grain, placing ends  For correct stitching techniques, see   7
an equal distance from the selvage and be sure to place  pattern pieces
4 with the stretch Sewing Procedures. 15 16 20 17 18 21
 TRIM 1 2 3   4
of fabric as marked on the pattern. Hold pattern pieces in place with weights or9pins. Cut  9  
out pattern pieces, using scissors or rotary cutter. Before removing the pattern pieces from  3554
1. Slip can be finished with lace or narrow 
fabric, transfer all construction lines, dots and notches
2 to fabric.3 The easiest way 3 to mark hems, follow
3554 Pieces 1A or 1B; Be sure to use the   
notches, center2front, center back 8and fold lines
7 is to 1make tiny3 clips on the seam allow- correct cutting line on cups. 6 TRIM
ances. Or, mark with chalk or water
4
4
soluble pen. If marking
 is needed on
5
4 right side
 of fabric, 1

mark with pins or hand basting stitches. Label pattern pieces on wrong side with tape. 1A. Lace 1  2  4 5 13 3554 p.1
9 1 TRIM 3
1 1
2
6  2 3 4 5 3554 p.1 12
LAYOUT CODE 1 cups at neckline
Place lace to right side of 2 3 4 5 3554 p.1
Pattern piece with 3554 Pieces
Pattern piece with 3554
and armhole edges, with outer edge of 8 3554
1 3
the printed side of5 the printed side of 15 16TRIM 17 9 18 19
Fabric  lace even with raw edge of cup. Miter lace 1 2  3 22 4TRIM
2 pattern up 8 7
pattern down TRIM
at shoulder strap placement10and7 tape lace
 TRIM 20 21
4 in place. Stitch close to inner edge
69 15 of lace, 16 17 18 Or, hem bottom edge, using the same3554
19 14
using a narrow zigzag width and slightly 11 8
TRIM procedure as in 1B.
3 3 shorter than medium stitch length. Trim
1 to stitches. 2 3 7 4 5 3554 p.1
6 35543 Pieces
8 fabric under lace close 
If a pattern piece
1 is marked
3 "Place on Fold" and is shown 464
5
61 TRIM
5 4  TRIM
in the following manner, cut all the other pattern pieces first,
2
2 TRIM
26
allowing fabric where the shaded half is shown. Then fold 7&8 Fold
fabric and place the piece on the fold and6 cut.
1 2 4  lace to top edgeTRIM
Place  of back with edges 8 25 9
3 1
7 8 even and stitch close to6 inner edge of lace.9 TRIM
1 4 7  22 TRIM
FABRIC 60" (152
1 cm) WIDE
2 3 Trim fabric under 5lace close3554 p.1 
to stitches. 21 8 stitches on cups at cup
2. Sew gathering 9
4 7 20

5 2 7 seam between notches, on seam line and 19a
1 again in the middle of seam allowance 8 Cut Off
VIEW A 2 VIEW B 23
1  TRIM (see Easing and10Gathering in Sewing
Fold  Fold Fold 7
Procedures). TRIM 19a
6
3 6 3 8  11
Selvages
Selvages

15 6 4
3  6 8
4  9 27
 1 2 2 3 4 5 3554
26 p.1
 7
2 2 6
1 1 TRIM 25 22 13
8 7 20 21
3
Selvages 2 Fold 3 12 TRIM
6. Fold shoulder strap in half lengthwise,
24
6 Fold 4  TRIM right sides and raw edges together, and
5  8 22 23 long edge. Trim seam allowances
2 of pattern 4piece 9 from
Cut one 9 stitch
cotton knit, no layout 6 20 21
2 7 given. to 1/8" (3 mm). Turn right side out 24with
1 10 a loop turner of follow these procedures:
1 12
7 Cut23a small opening on the folded edge
14 27 1/2" (1.3 cm) from one end. Hook a bobby
3
FABRIC
8 98" (249 cm) WIDE
3
 11  
TRIM 3. Pin26cups to front, right sides together, at pin through opening and insert into strap.
5 6
6 4 10 13
Guide bobby pin through strap to the other
cup seam, matching notches and neckline
VIEW A 2 VIEW B 25 13
edges of cups to center front. Pull up end. Trim strap at the cut opening. Repeat
2 8 9
TRIM stitches12 for other strap. 13
Fold Fold Fold gathering to fit between notches
11 28
1 3 7 12
7 2 3 and stitch, pivoting at
12center front.
3
Selvages
Selvages

4 6 4 10
Selvages

10 1 12
7&8 10 14
4 11 14 27 Cut Off
2 3 6 11 1314
26
10 11
4
3
5
25 27 12
2
1 1 26
TRIM 11 28 29
Fold Fold Fold 25
10 13
3
2 3 H Unfold fabric and cut one of each TRIM 28 29
6 4 14
12 11
4 Cut Off
Cut one of pattern piece 9 from Cut Off
7&8
1 cotton knit, no layout given. 4 Cut Off
10
3
6 4 14
5 11
1
2 13
7&8
4 12
Cut Off
3
2 TRIM 28 29
Pin shoulder strap to back at notch for Panties 24 Label elastic pieces. Stitch ends of each Fold elastic to wrong side and stitch close
strap placement, and
15stitch across23
top and 4. Overcast front edge of crotch lining piece of elastic together and open seams. 19a use a medium
to edge of elastic, zigzag
3554 p.2
bottom edge of lace or hem, as shown. 16
(side without notch).
17 18 width and19medium or34slightly shorter stitch
15 16 17 18 length,19stretching elastic to fit.3554 p.2

16 17 18 19 27 3554 p.2
2622
20 21
25 sides together, at 30 31 32 33
Pin front to back, right Divide waist, leg openings, and elastic into 24 3554 p.3
crotch seam, matching notches. fourths
TRIM with pins. 28
23 29
19a
Congratulations on completing your TRIM
19a
KWIK•SEW sewing project!

Please take a moment to share your com-

ments with our design studio by visiting:

H
www.kwiksew.com/survey

TC
28 29 3554 p.2 19a

RE
17
16 Try on slip and pin straps to front, 18 19

ST
adjusting
length, if necessary. Stitch across straps at
22
20or hem. If desired, 21
top and bottom of lace 22 24
attach a bow or flower
20 at center front. 21 of crotch lining to wrong
Pin right side
side of back, matching notches. Stitch 23 24
crotch seam through all three layers, 27 23
using a narrow26 zigzag width and slightly
shorter than medium22stitch length. Trim 7. If using regular elastic, follow 7A. If
25 21 seam allowances close to stitches. using lingerie elastic, follow 7B.
TRIM 24
28 29
23 elastic
7A - Regular
19a Pin elastic to wrong side of waist and leg
openings, matching34 pins, and edges of p.2
3554
16 17 18 19 edges of fabric. Stitch
elastic even with
on top of elastic, stretching elastic to fit
openings; use a three-step zigzag stitch, a
wide zigzag width and longer than medium
30 27 stitch length, or use a31serger (overlock) 32 33
machine. When using the serger, guide 3554 p.3
Congratulations on completing your 26 27 carefully to be sure not to cut elastic.
22
KWIK•SEW sewing project!
21 25 26
25 to share your com- TRIM
Fold lining toward front and pin raw edges 24 TRIM
Please take a moment 28 29
ments with our design studio by visiting: TRIM leg openings. 23
together at Stitch close to
28 29
www.kwiksew.com/survey edges to keep together, using a narrow
27
zigzag stitch. 19a
26
VIEW B

H
TC
1/4" (6 mm) seam allowances
TRIM included. 355428
p.2 RE
ST
17 18 19 29
For correct stitching techniques, see
Sewing Procedures.

1. Sew, following View A, steps 1 through 4.

22
2. Stitch front ruffle21
to back ruffle, right Fold elastic along the edge of elastic to the
sides together, at side seams.30 wrong side to form hem. Stitch 24 over inner
31 32 33
23edges of elastic, stretching elastic to fit; 3554 p.3
27 use a medium zigzag width and medium
or slightly shorter stitch length.
TRIM
M 19a
34
28
5. Stitch front to back, 29
18 19 3554 p.2 right sides together,
at side seams.
Finish bottom edge of ruffle, following
H

View A, step 1.
TC
RE
ST

Sew gathering stitches on ruffle, at ruffle

seam, on seam line and again in the
22
middle of seam allowance (see Easing
and gathering in Sewing Procedures).
27 24
26 23 7B - Lingerie elastic
Pin wrong side of elastic to right side of
TRIM 19a 6. Note: Two different types of elastic waist and leg openings, matching pins,
28 29
can be used, regular elastic or lingerie with picot edge toward panty, and edges
elastic. If using regular elastic, elastic will of elastic along edges of fabric. Stitch
31 32 lingerie elastic, elastic
be covered, if using close to picot edges
33 with a medium zigzag
will show on inside and the picot edge will 3554 p.3
stitch, stretching elastic to fit openings.
34 show on the right side. Follow instructions Trim fabric under elastic close to stitches.
for the type of elastic you have chosen.
TRIM
Pin ruffle to slip, right sides together, at Cut pieces of elastic the following
ruffle seam, matching center front, center lengths:
back, and side seams, pull up gathering 24
stitches to fit, distribute gathers evenly Waist - cut one
23
and stitch. 27
H

XS - 25 1/2" (65 cm)

TC
RE

S - 28" (71 cm)

ST

M - 30" (77 cm)

L - 32 1/2" (83 cm)
XL -28
36" (91 cm) 29
Legs openings - cut two
XS - 18 1/2" (47 cm)
S - 20" (51 cm)
M - 21" (54 cm) If you purchased this pattern without the enclosing
L - 22 1/2" (57 cm) envelope, you should be aware that this pattern is sto-
3. Continue, following View A, step 6. len property. It was reported "unsold and destroyed" to
XL - 24" (61 cm) KWIK•SEW®, and neither KWIK•SEW® nor the distributor
has received any payment for this "stripped pattern."
©MMVII KWIK•SEW® Pattern Co., Inc.
All rights reserved. Protected under international
copyright law. Commercial or industrial use prohibited
unless there is a written agreement with KWIK•SEW®
Pattern Co., Inc. This pattern or any part thereof may
not be reproduced in any form or by any process without
written permission from the copyright owner.
28 29
KWIK•SEW® Pattern Co., Inc. is not responsible for
misprints or other errors, and in no event shall be liable
for any damages whatsoever resulting from the purchase
or use of this product.

Printed in the United States of America.