FlareSkirt PB SKI 003 FlareSkirtGuide
FlareSkirt PB SKI 003 FlareSkirtGuide
FlareSkirt PB SKI 003 FlareSkirtGuide
Step 1 Measure down 7” from the middle of the waist tape of the dress form and place your
style tape at that level from center front to center back. You can measure the distance using
a ruler and the tabletop.
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Module 1 – Lesson Prep
Step 2 Establish the desired length of your flared skirt, beginning from the middle of the waist
tape.
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Lesson Guide Flare Skirt Draping: Beginner
Module 2 – Muslin Preparation & Marking Guidelines
Step 1 On your muslin, measure down the desired length of the skirt plus 5” and tear across
the full width of the muslin. My fabric is Step 50” wide. Create another piece the same as the
first.
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Module 2 – Muslin Preparation & Marking Guidelines
Step 2 Clip and tear to remove the selvage edges from both pieces.
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Module 2 – Muslin Preparation & Marking Guidelines
Step 3 Fold the fabric in half to check the corners to make sure that your corner are at right
angles.
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Module 2 – Muslin Preparation & Marking Guidelines
Step 4 Come in” from the top of the right side of one of the pieces and drag a guideline
down, this represents the center front.
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Module 2 – Muslin Preparation & Marking Guidelines
Step 5 Measure down 5” from the top of the muslin and place a dash mark, this represents
the waistline.
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Module 2 – Muslin Preparation & Marking Guidelines
Step 6 From the waistline measure down 7” and drag a line cross. This is your front hipline.
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Module 2 – Muslin Preparation & Marking Guidelines
Step 7 On your back muslin block, drag a grainline across at the same level as the front, this
is your back hipline.
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Lesson Guide Flare Skirt Draping: Beginner
Module 3 – Draping the Front
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 2 Place pins at the desired flare points on your waistline. For this lesson will plan for
2 flare points on the front and 2 on the back. Divide the front waist measure by 3 and place
your first pin that distance away from center front. Your second pin will be in the middle be-
tween the first pin and the side seam. Do the same for the back.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 3 Line up the muslin’s waistline marking to the waistline/centerfront intersection of the
dress form.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 4 Place a temporary pin at the side seam to hold the muslin while you pin along the
center front between the hipline and the waistline and to the bottom of the dress form’s torso.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 5 Smooth the muslin over to the first flare point at the waistline and place a pin at the
hipline. Place another pin at the torso in line with the waistline pin.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 6 Now you are ready to slash into the first flare point to the center of the waist tape.
Trim the excess muslin within one inch of the waistline.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 7A Release your holding pin at the side seam and drop a flare from the waistline mea-
suring 2 1/2” deep at the end of the torso.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 7C Lock your flare in place with another pin at the torso.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 8 Smooth the muslin across the hip to the 2nd flare point at the waistline and place a
pin. Slash into the waistline at this flare point and between the first flare and second flare
point. Then trim the waist excess to within an inch of the waistline.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 9A Place a pin at the hip directly below the 2nd flare point.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 10 Drop a second flare measuring 2 1/2”, the same as the first, at end of the torso and
secure it with a pin on both sides.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 11 Smooth the muslin up to the waistline/side seam intersection, pin and then slash to
release the waist. Trim the waist excess.
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Module 3 – Draping the Front
Step 12 Place pins along the side seam to the end of the torso.
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Lesson Guide Flare Skirt Draping: Beginner
Module 4 – Marking the Front
Step 1 Working in a counter clockwise direction, place dots along the middle of the waist
tape and crossmark both flare points until you reach the side seam. Place a crossmark at the
side seam/waistline intersection.
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Module 4 – Marking the Front
Step 2 Dot along the side seam from the waistline to the end of the torso. Place a crossmark
at the hip level.
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Module 4 – Marking the Front
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Module 4 – Marking the Front
Step 4 Mark both sides of your flares at the end of the torso.
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Module 4 – Marking the Front
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Module 4 – Marking the Front
Step 6 Before removing the skirt front from the dress form be sure that you have made all of
the necessary markings.
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Module 4 – Marking the Front
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Lesson Guide Flare Skirt Draping: Beginner
Module 5 – Trueing the Front
Step 1 Square a line off center front for about 1” or to your first waist dot marking.
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Module 5 – Trueing the Front
Step 2 Use your French curve to connect the rest of your waist dots.
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Module 5 – Trueing the Front
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Module 5 – Trueing the Front
Step 4 Connect your side seam dots using a combination of your hip curve and straight ruler,
extending the side seam to the edge of the muslin.
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Module 5 – Trueing the Front
Step 5 To create a side seam flare, come out the same flare amount, 2 1/2”, from the bottom
of the torso marking and with your yardstick, connect a new side seam.
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Module 5 – Trueing the Front
Step 6 Add 1” seam allowance to the new side seam and then trim the excess muslin at the
side seam and at the waistline.
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Lesson Guide Flare Skirt Draping: Beginner
Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 1 Trace your hip guideline onto the other side of the back skirt piece.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 2 Flip the back muslin over and place your front drape onto the back muslin block with
the front hem closest to the left side of the back muslin block. Align the front and back hip
and secure with pins. Pin the pieces along the side seam from waistline to the bottom of the
muslin.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 3 Slip your tracing paper face-up underneath the back block and trace the original front
side seam and the new flared side seam on to the back. Crossmark the end of torso and the
waistline. Turn the drape over to check that all of your markings transferred properly.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 4 Trim the excess muslin from the side seam and check that you have captured all of
the tracings before you unpin and separate the front from the back.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 5 Bend the back seam allowance over the front and pin along the side seam from the
waist to the bottom of the muslin. Match up the waist and the torso markings. Be careful not
to stretch the side seam since the side seam is bias.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 6 Pin your front muslin back on to the dress form the way you draped it matching center
front, the flare points, and the waistline side seam. Temporarily pin the muslin excess to the
back to keep it out of the way while you continue to pin along centerfront.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 7 Line up the side seam marking to the side seam of the dress form and lock the front
flares in place at the end of the torso.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 8 Pin the back side seam marking to the dress form trapping the flare at the end of the
torso and at the hip.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 9A Smooth the muslin up and over the hip placing a pin at the first flare point on the
waistline. Place a corresponding pin at the hipline.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 9B Add another at the end of the torso in line with the waistline pin.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 10 Slash into the waistline pin to release the first flare.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 11 Trim the excess muslin at the waistline within 1” away from the waist tape.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 12A Release the temporary holding pin on the back and, drop the first flare at 2 1/2” at
the bottom torso and secure it with a pin.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 12B Confirm the measurement with your ruler then place a pin at the hipline.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 13A Smooth the muslin up and over the back in the direction of the waistline and place
a pin at the 2nd flare point on the waistline.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 13B Then pin at the hipline and at the end of the torso in line with the waist pin.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 14 Slash into the waist at the 2nd flare point and in between the first flare pin to release
the muslin. Trim the excess to within 1” of the waistline.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 15 Drop a second 2 1/2” flare at the end of the torso. Place a holding pin at the back
while you measure with your ruler. Trap the flare with a pin at the torso.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 16 Smooth the muslin up and over the back placing a pin at the center back waistline
intersection.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 17 Your center back muslin at this point will be on straight grain and will align with the
hipline of the dress form. lace a pin at the hipline and at the center back/torso intersection.
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Module 6 – Draping the Back
Step 18 Slash to release the muslin at the waistline and trim the excess.
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Lesson Guide Flare Skirt Draping: Beginner
Module 7 – Marking the Back
Steps 1&2A Working in a counter clockwise direction, place dots along the middle of the
waist tape. Crossmark the flare points until you reach the center back/waistline intersection.
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Module 7 – Marking the Back
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Module 7 – Marking the Back
Step 3A Mark both sides of your back flares at the bottom torso.
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Module 7 – Marking the Back
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Module 7 – Marking the Back
Step 4 Check all of your markings before removing the skirt from the dress form.
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Lesson Guide Flare Skirt Draping: Beginner
Module 8 – Trueing the Back
Step 1 Square a line off the center back hipline connecting the waistline and the edge of the
muslin. You may miss the torso marking but that is ok. It is more important to make an adjust-
ment so that the center back can be on straight grain. Place 2 notches on center back one at
the hipline and another 1/4” below for the zipper.
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Module 8 – Trueing the Back
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Module 8 – Trueing the Back
Step 3 Square a line off center back at the waistline connecting the dots.
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Module 8 – Trueing the Back
Step 4 Use your French curve to connect the rest of your waist dots. Add 1/2” seam allow-
ance to the waistline.
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Module 8 – Trueing the Back
Step 5 Trim the excess muslin on center back and at the waistline.
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Module 8 – Trueing the Back
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Lesson Guide Flare Skirt Draping: Beginner
Module Step – 9 Final Steps
Steps 1&2A Put the skirt back on the dress form the way you draped it. Place pins along the
waist flare points, the side seam, the back waistline flare points and along center back. Form
your flares both front and back.
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
Step 3A Measure the desired skirt length of your skirt from the middle of the waist tape on
center front
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
Step 4 Measure up from either the floor or against the table top to mark the skirt length. Turn
the dress form as you mark all the way around until you reach the center back.
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
Step 5 Remove the muslin from the dress form in preparation for trueing the hem.
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
Step 6 Square a line off center front and center back to the first hem marking.
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
Step 7 Using your hip curve, flip the curve to connect the hem markings.
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
Step 9A Put the skirt drape back on the dress form and check for fit.
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Module Step – 9 Final Steps
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