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Salisbury Crags
Bouldering Guide

No Thrills Editions
WARNING, BOULDERING AND FREE SOLO CLIMBING ARE UNROPED FORMS OF CLIMBING,
AND ARE INHERENTLY DANGEROUS. ENTHUSIASM IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR EXPERIENCE AND
PROPER JUDGEMENT.

Details of climbs recorded in this guide, together with their grades, reference to specific holds and the
general rock quality, landings and descents, are compiled from first ascent descriptions, checked and
substantiated where possible by the editors of this guide. However, these are made in good faith, and any
minor alteration can have a major effect on a climb’s character, difficulty and seriousness. No Thrills
Editions and the editors of this guide can therefore accept no liability whatever for damage to property,
nor for personal injury or death, arising directly or indirectly from the use of this publication.
Copyright
Copyright © No Thrills Editions

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any
means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage
and retrieval system, without prior written permission of No Thrills Editions.

Version
Version: 1.1
Overview
The long escarpment of Salisbury crags dominates the skyline above Edinburgh city centre. Although the
extent of quality climbing does not match the extent of the cliffs, there is a host of worthwhile bouldering in
the low to mid grades.

The earliest routes were established here in 1897, with bouldering activity arriving in the 1980s. The rock
is dolerite, a volcanic rock, which presents a full variety of holds and has reasonable friction, although
polishes to a slick sheen with time and traffic. Climbing is possible year round, however the Black Wall
remains damp after rain and some problems are prone to seepage on crucial low footholds.

Many climbers are familiar with the polished test pieces on the Black Wall, however there are a number of
enjoyable climbs at more amenable grades on less travelled rock in the South Quarry and the Eastern
Buttress.

f2+ 1

f3 4

f3+ 1

f4 4

f4+ 6

f5 1

f5+ 1

f6A 4

f6A+ 8

f6B 7

f6B+ 2

f6C 4

f6C+ 2

f7A 3

f7A+ 1

f7B 4

f7B+ 1
Access

As per the Historic Scotland guidelines, “Climbing is permitted in the South Quarry only. The quarry is
located on Salisbury Crags and is accessed on foot from the Radical Road. This area is set back from the
path and so minimises the danger to other park users. Climbing is permitted between the metal plate
signs on the rocks at either end of the South Quarry.”

Please respect these guidelines to ensure the continued access and enjoyment of future climbers and
generations.
South Quarry Upper Tier
Traditionally a soloing venue, however there are a number of pleasant contrived and eliminate problems,
which can either be linked into solos of upper routes, or enjoyed in their own right. Descent is by topping
out, jumping down, or escaping into easy adjacent routes and downclimbing.

The Long Stride Area, problems 1 to 3

1 Athlete’s Arête Start (f4+) ☆

The hanging arête on crimps as high as
you dare! HVS 5a as a solo if you take it
to the top.

2 The Long Stride Variation Start (f4)

☆☆☆
The often chalky crack followed by a big
move out right to the well chalked ledge,
mantel this to top. VS 5a as a solo.

3 White Slab Arête (f3)

A sit start to the low easy arete to the left
of a white speckled slab. A good start for
a solo of White Slab, VD.
The Rotten Overhang Area, problems 4 to 11

4 Rotten Overhang Left Arête (f4)

The left arête of the rotten overhang start, to underneath the protruding flake, eliminating all hand holds except the
arête and the good feet out to the left.

5 Rotten Overhang Traverse (f5)

A L-R traverse of the small roof beneath the traditional route of the same name (HVS 4b). The undercut flake is in.

6 Rotten Overhang Traverse Low (f6A+)

A R-L traverse. From the arête move across to a small crimp, match this and bridge into the next corner. The
undercut flake is out.

7 Rotten Overhand Right Arête (f4+)

The right arête beneath the small roof, on smears for feet, to the top of the square cut flake.

8 The Splits Start Eliminate (f6A+)

From the plinth beneath the corner of the traditional route with the same name (S), move up delicately to the square
cut flake. Eliminate holds in the corner, the arête, and good foot holds to the right.
9 The Splits Start Eliminate Sit (f6A+) ☆
Not harder, just better! Start from a RH crimp on the right arête, and a gaston a LH crimp on the slab, to slap up right
and traverse into the problem.

10 The Lift Arête Start Sit (f4+)

A sit start to the arête on the traditional route of the same name (VD).

11 Black Slab Start Eliminate (f5+) ☆

The thin slab on edges, direct to the hanging blocks. Eliminating the easy groove of the traditional route of the same
(D).

The Roofer Wall, Problems 12 to 15

12 Roofer Reverse (f6B)

A full reverse of Roofer Traverse, starting on the slab, going right, underneath the small roof, finishing on the
generous crimps as for Roofer Wall. Much inferior to Roofer Traverse.

13 Roofer Right Hand (f6A+)

On the right hand side of the small roof, take the small arête and corner on crimps to gain a good hold.
14 Roofer Traverse (f6A+) ☆☆
A R-L traverse of the small roof, starting from the generous crimps on Roofer Wall, pulling out onto the slab. The low
foothold as exiting the roof is out at the grade.

15 Roofer Wall (f4) ☆

The short wall right of the small roof, starting from generous crimps, ascent to match a good horizontal break at ~8ft.
South Quarry Lower Tier
Beneath the South Quarry proper are two rocky outcrops, the Ulbhag Blocs. These have a number of
pleasant low grade problems on interesting holds. Descent is by the grassy path back to the base, or a
short down scramble between the two outcrops.

The left of the two outcrops has one problem

16 Gulcan Bholcànach (f2+)

The easy central groove, eliminating the low detached looking block.

The right, and more interesting, of the two outcrops has three eliminate problems.

Right Ulbhag Bloc, problems 17 to 19, problem 16 is out of view on the Left Ulbhag Bloc

17 Àrd-thir Suidhe (f3)

The left hand alternative to Àrd-na-Said, eliminating the holds on that line.

18 Àrd-na-Said (f3) ☆☆
The obvious line up the centre of the outcrop on jugs.
19 Àrd-Dubh (f3+)
The right hand alternative to Àrd-na-Said, eliminating the holds on that line.
The Little Black Wall
To the right of the sunny Roofer sector problems, is the shady Little Black Wall. Not as polished as its
larger namesake, but it's getting there. The straight ups are short, but punchy, and the traverse is
worthwhile, if unlikely at the grade.

The Little Black Wall, problems 20 to 24

20 Little Black Wall Traverse (f6A+) ☆

A low L-R traverse, largely on sidepulls, with a distinct fierce crux.

21 The Sidepull Eliminate (f6B+)

A sit start on the sidepull to the left of the central flake, eliminate the crack out left and good holds up and left. Reach
up and right to a sloper, and finish on the jug above. Very forgettable.

22 The Flake (f4+)

A sit start on the central flake, taking the line of least resistance to the finishing jugs.

23 The Crimp Eliminate (f6A+)

A sit start from the flat hold by the central flake to a small crimp, then a reach to finish on a jug, eliminate all other
holds.

24 The Juggy Undercut (f4+) ☆

A sit start beneath the juggy undercut, move up and in to this, before reaching up to finish on jugs.
The Black Wall
The most popular wall in the South Quarry is home to a number of polished test pieces. Many of the
problems are eliminate in nature, but the moves are valuable in their own right. Descent is by traversing
the L-R ledge above the wall or jumping down.

The Black Wall, traverses and reverses

The Black Wall, straight ups

25 Black Wall Traverse (f6C) ☆☆☆

Starting from the high left hand rail, traverse the black wall high finishing around the arête; very polished.

26 Black Wall Traverse Low Start (f7A) ☆☆

A trickier low start from the polished rail below the standard start, moving into the main traverse after the central left
facing layback.

26a Black Wall Link (f7B+) ☆

It is possible to link 26 in to 38 for a tough endurance problem.

27 Black Wall Traverse Low (f7B) ☆☆

Start as for 26, but stay low where it joins the standard traverse.

28 Left Wall Direct (f6B)

The left line leading to the finishing ledges on small crimps and sidepulls. The start is a metre or so to the right of the
blocks, these are out at the grade.

29 Layback Problem (f6B) ☆

LH on the lesser layback hold to the left of the central layback, move up to a well chalked hold, move up with difficulty
left to the rail.
30 Layback Problem Sit (f7B)
A hard sit start in to 29.

31 Layback Problem Direct (f6B) ☆

As for 29, but from the well chalked hold take a sharp crimp up and right, and finish direct to the rail.

32 Press Problem (f6C)

A sit start on the polished rail press up and into a small left facing layback (not for 29-31), finish on the central jug on
26.

33 The Shield (f6C)

Direct from the shield hold to a jug up and right. All holds except the shield are out, a one move wonder.

34 M Problem (f6B)
From the central left facing layback, cross through to take an M shaped crimp with the LH, bumping to a sloping
triangular hold for the RH, finishing at the break. High and with long moves, harder for the short.

35 Central Wall Eliminate (f6C)

Start by matching the crimp below the central left facing layback, move to the chalked spikey crimp diagonally up right
from some graffiti and next to some black marked rock. LH to a sidepull to the right of the central layback (not in).
Bump up to the M shaped crimp and finish as for 34.

36 Highball Problem (f6B) ☆

Take the black streak on sidepulls to the left of the old bolts. Long moves high off the ground; you have been warned!

37 Arête Wall / Right Wall (f6A) ☆

The wall left of the arête to gain the arête. The crack is in at the grade.

38 Arête Wall / Right Wall Eliminate (f7A+)

As for 37, eliminating the crack to the left and the arête to the right.

39 Arête Wall / Right Wall Eliminate Sit (f7B)

As for 38, with a sit start off two low sidepulls.

40 Black Wall Arête (f4+) ☆

Layback the arête to the welcomed ledges.

41 Black Wall Reverse (f6C+) ☆

A R-L traverse of the wall, a full reverse of 25. Harder but less classic.

42 Black Wall Revere Low (f7B) ☆

A R-L traverse of the wall, staying low the whole way across.
The Eastern Buttress
Around the corner from the black wall is the Eastern Buttress, this is the sector your first reach on the
standard approach. The rock is sun exposed, and friction is poor in hot weather, but the climbs are
generally unpolished and worth a look. Many of these problems are lowballs and can be climbed without
a pad.

The Eastern Buttress sector can be divided into two areas, ‘The Recess’ and ‘The Juggy Traverse Area’.

The Recess Area, problems 43 to 46

43 The Slab (f3) ☆

The slab on the eastern buttress side of the Black Wall’s right arête, to a good high ledge.

44 Recess Traverse (f6A)

A few metres right of 43, traverse the recess, low under the hanging nose.

45 Slab Eliminate (f6A+)

Sit start in the corner of the recess from a chalked rail. Use the small left facing groove to gain the slab. The corner of
the hanging nose is out at the grade.

46 Hanging Nose (f4) ☆

Sit start below the handing nose, follow good holds in the corner, to the top of the hanging nose.
The Juggy Traverse Area, problems 47 to 53

47 The Juggy Traverse (f6A) ☆☆

Starting from the jug rail beneath the bulge, traverse rightwards, drop down to traverse beneath a low sloping boss
(interesting hold here), and continue underneath the small roof to finish on the slab.

48 The Non-Juggy Traverse (f6B+) ☆

A variation start to 47, which eliminates the jugs before the sloping boss and joins 47 thereafter.

49 The Devo Max Traverse (f7A)

Start as for 48, but do not join 47 at the sloping boss. Instead, follow slopers above the small roof. At a small bore
hole rail above the roof, match hands here and pull up, taking the sloping arête and bridging into the next corner
above the finish for 47. Here is a high hanging arête, match hands here to finish.

50 The Bulge (f6B) ☆☆

Start below the jug rail on 47. Climb to the jugs, and from here make a long contorted move to a good high hold on
the slab above the bulge. For the full tick, resist the temptation to slap the sloping right arête.

51 Slap Slap Slap (f6C+)

Sit Start in the corner beneath the start of 47, climb up to under the jugs and make for the same good hold on the
slab as 50, but eliminate the jugs. Harder but not as good.
52 Overhang Problem (f6A)
Sit start in the left corner beneath the small overhang. Pull up and in to the big square cut sidepull. Follow small holds
on the hanging groove and finish at the jug.

53 The Devo Max Reverse (f7A)

A misleading name, as not a true reverse of 49. Start from the sloping arête above the small roof and traverse back to
the start of 49.